Ireland 8 County Kerry - v1 - m56577569830517623
Ireland 8 County Kerry - v1 - m56577569830517623
Ireland 8 County Kerry - v1 - m56577569830517623
com
County Kerry
Kerry is as close as youll get to the mythical Ireland: that Celtic kingdom of misty mountains
promised by glossy brochures, Hollywood and our daydreams. Between the countys snowcapped summits are medieval ruins, glacial lakes, coastal peninsulas, blustery beaches, deserted
archipelagos, secluded hamlets, and larger towns where live music sparks up every night.
Most visitors touch down in Killarney. The townsfolk know how to run a mean hotel and
serve an Atlantic catch or a rack of Kerry lamb. Instead of municipal gardens theres a 10,000hectare national park, which can be explored by jaunting car (pony and trap) and a boat across
the lakes. In the nearby Gap of Dunloe, the road winds crazily beneath the Macgillycuddys
Reeks range, which includes nine of Irelands 10 highest peaks.
HISTORY
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0
COUNTY KERRY
Carrigaholt
Mouth
of the Cashen
Shannon Bay
ATLANTIC
OCEAN
Brandon
Head
Brandon
Ventry
Dingle
Brandon
Bay
Caherciueen
Killarney
Ring of Kerry
Valentia
Island
Small Skellig
Kenmare
Skellig
Michael
Portmagee
Strand
AREA: 4746 SQ KM
Annagh
Bog
N22
N70
N72
Derrynasaggart
Mountains
Muckross
dy's
cud
gilly s
Mac Reek
N71
Killarney
National
Park
N22
Iveragh Peninsula
CORK
Kenmare
Sneem
Tahilla
g of
Rin
ry N70
Ker
Castlecove
Caherdaniel
nm
Ke
ar
r
ive
eR
Gougane
Barra
Lough
Forest Park
Allua
N71
Parknasilla
Lamb's
Head
N72
Rathmore
Killarney
Lough
Leane
N70
Shehy
Mountains
Lauragh
Glengarriff
N71
POPULATION: 139,900
Ballydesmond
Kerry
Airport
Castlemaine
Castlemaine
Inch Harbour
Coomacarrea
(772m)
Saint
Finan's
Waterville
Bay Ballinskelligs
Ballinskelligs
Bay
Scariff
Derrynane
N23
Whiddy
Island
Beara
Peninsula
Bantry
Bay
Ballylickey
ndon
Ba
Dunmanway
Bantry
Drimoleague
Durrus
N71
COUNTY KERRY
COUNTY KERRY
Bay
Knightstown
Chapeltown
Skellig
Islands
N22
Farranfore
Lougher
Glenbeigh
Dingle
Bay KellsRossbeigh
Beginish
Castleisland
Slieve N70
70
Mish
Mountains
Camp
N86
Been Hill
(668m)
Blasket
Islands
Crag
Cave
Blennerville
Kells
Tralee
Tralee
Bay Fenit
Lispole
Rough Point
Mullaghareirk
Mountains
Killorglin
Inishvickillane
Dingle
N69
Banna
Ardfert
iver
ater R
Blackw
Dunquin
Abbeyfeale
N21
Annascaul
Athea
N21
Ballyheigue
Banna
Strand
Great
Blasket
Listowel
le
River
Ballyheigue
Bay
N69
Ballyduff
Ballyferriter Ballydavid
Glin
LIMERICK
Ballybunion
Kerry
Head
Inishtooskert
N69
Tarbert
Ballylongford
HIGHLIGHTS
20 km
12 miles
Carrig Killimer
Kilbaha
Listowel
Killarney and its surrounds have been inhabited probably since the Neolithic period
and were certainly important Bronze Age
settlements, based on the copper ore mined
on Ross Island. Killarney changed hands between warring tribes, notably the Fir Bolg
(bag men), expert stonemasons who built
forts (including Staigue), and developed
Ogham script.
In the 7th century, St Finian founded
a monastery on Inisfallen Island, and
Killarney became a focus for Christianity in the region. The ODonoghue clan
Such magnificent scenery is, of course, a magnet for buses, but the hordes can be escaped by using back roads and mountain passes. As for the local folk, Kerrymen are famous
throughout Ireland for their proud provincialism and country cunning. Just listen to the
outrageous yarns told by the jarveys who drive Killarneys jaunting cars.
KILLARNEY
Fe
Tourists often arrive at the coast with the idea that the iconic Ring of Kerry is a place
they can visit. In fact, its a 179km circuit of the Iveragh Peninsula, where the mountainsmeet-ocean beauty makes for one of the worlds great road trips. To paraphrase one pub
sign, youll enjoy Irelands best known views fog permitting. Across a dolphin-inhabited
bay, the Dingle Peninsula is home to one of the countrys highest concentrations of ancient
sites and Mt Brandon, Irelands eighth highest peak.
K I L L A R N E Y H i s t o r y 247
Riv
er
248 K I L L A R N E Y O r i e n t a t i o n
lonelyplanet.com
ORIENTATION
The centre of Killarney is the T-junction
where New St meets High and Main Sts.
As it heads south, High St becomes Main
St, then turns east into Kenmare Place and
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KILLARNEY
INFORMATION
Frank Lewis....................................1
Gleeson's.......................................2
Killarney Bookshop.........................3
Killarney Library..............................4
Killarney Post Office.......................5
Leaders...........................................6
Pages Bookstore.............................7
Tourist Office.................................8
WEB-Talk...................................... 9
SLEEPING
Arbutus Hotel.............................. 19
Copper Kettle..............................20
Fairview.......................................21
Filte Hotel..................................22
Neptune's Killarney Town Hostel..23
Railway Hostel.............................24
Rathmore House...........................25
Ross.............................................26
Sgn Hostel............................... 27
C4
C4
C4
C4
B4
D4
B3
C5
C4
EATING
Brcn............................................28
Cathleen's Country Kitchen..........29
Cronin's.......................................30
Dunne's Stores.............................31
Gaby's Seafood Restaurant..........32
Jam.............................................. 33
Laurels.........................................34
Mac's of Main Street...................35
Murphy's Ice Cream....................36
Sceale Eile....................................37
Stone Chat...................................38
Tesco...........................................39
C4
B4
C4
A4
C4
C4
C4
C4
C4
C4
B4
B4
Rock
B5
C4
C4
B3
B4
B4
B4
B5
C5
Rd
TRANSPORT
Airport Shuttle Bus.....................(see 10)
Avis.............................................(see 8)
Budget.........................................49 C5
Jaunting Cars Pick-Up Point.........50 C5
O'Sullivan's Bike Hire...................51 A5
O'Sullivan's Bike Hire...................52 B5
Taxi Rank.................................... 53 C4
Lewis Rd
d
k R
Roc
Rd
35
9
52
ACTIVITIES
Internet Resources
www.corkkerry.ie A useful resource for accommodation and information throughout the southwest.
Laundry
Gleesons (%33877; Brewery Lane; per 6kg 12;
h9am-6pm Mon-Sat)
Post
43
Town
Hall
11
26
49
50
Kenmare
12
Muckross Rd
Killarney
National
Park
Killarney Post Office (%31461; New St; h9am5.30pm Mon & Wed-Sat, from 9.30am Tue)
larney-golf.com; Mahonys Point; green fees per person 40120, club hire 30-40), 3.4km west of town on the
Toilets
e R
d
42
ess
Count
Beech Rd
Medical Services
Rd
COUNTY KERRY
41
Built between 1842 and 1855, St Marys Cathedral (%31014; Cathedral Pl), at the western end of
New St, is a superb example of neo-Gothic
revival architecture. The cruciform Augustus Pugin building was inspired by Ardfert
Cathedral (p281), near Tralee.
At the northern end of High St is a Famine Memorial to victims, which was erected by
the Republican Graves Association in 1972.
With a determination reflecting the implacable hope for a united Ireland, the inscription
reads: This memorial will not be unveiled
until Ireland is free.
On Fair Hill is an 1860s Franciscan friary,
displaying an ornate Flemish-style altarpiece,
some impressive tile work and stained glass
windows by Harry Clarke. The Dublin artists organic style was influenced by Art
Nouveau, Art Deco and Symbolism.
Money
t A
v en
u
39
6
51
To Knockreer
House (500m);
Ross Castle (2.4km);
Lough Leane
Pl
St
19
s
ny'
tho
An Pl
St
New
46 53
36
3 15
St
kett 44 2
Plun
St
31
N e w St
Main
er
Beech
Lo
w
St
34 National
Irish
Bank
eg
e
45
37
33
27
21
30 10
22
Co
ll
40
16
COUNTY KERRY
St
29
20
as
High
Chapel
Pl
Rd
Port
48
SIGHTS
32
28
23
Libraries
13
18
Left Luggage
25
38
Emergency
Bookshops
SHOPPING
Aran Sweater Market...................46 C4
Brcn..........................................(see 28)
Killarney Outlet Centre................ 47 D4
O'Sullivan's Outdoor Store...........48 B4
Variety Sounds...........................(see 19)
Tourist Information
INFORMATION
ENTERTAINMENT
Granary.......................................41
Killarney Cineplex........................42
Killarney Grand............................43
McSorley's...................................44
O'Connor's..................................45
C5
C5
C5
C4
C4
K I L L A R N E Y I n f o r m a t i o n 249
Internet Access
To N22;
Kerry Airport (15km);
Tralee (32km);
Limerick (111km)
To R562;
Killarney Riding Stables (1.5km);
Fossa GAA Ground (1.6km);
Killarney Golf & Fishing Club (3.4km);
Aghadoe (5km); Killarney International
Hostel (5km); Fossa Caravan &
Camping Park (5.5km); Gap of
Dunloe (15km); Killorglin (19km);
Ring of Kerry
Treyvaud's................................... 40 C4
Cath
ed
17
Pl ral
200 m
0.1 miles
lonelyplanet.com
250 K I L L A R N E Y S l e e p i n g
SLEEPING
Budget
Midrange
B&Bs and guesthouses are as thick on the
ground in Killarney as jaunting cars. It can be
difficult, however, to find a room from June to
August, when its often easiest to let the tourist
office find one for you (4). New Rd, Rock Rd
and Muckross Rd (and the roads leading off
Muckross Rd) are good places to look.
Rathmore House (%32829; rathmorehousekly@iol.ie;
Rock Rd; s/d 50/80; hMar-Oct; p) Theres a warm
welcome at this long-established B&B, one
of a group of family-run establishments at
the northern entrance to town. The ensuite
rooms and their cherrywood furniture are as
cheerful as the owners.
Elyod House (%36544; www.elyodhouse.ie; Ross Rd; s/
d 55/72; p) This quietly located modern house
is on the road to Ross Castle, and a few minutes walk from town. Rooms are fresh and
clean, and the welcome is friendly.
Northwood House (%37181; www.northwoodhouse
.com; 5 Muckross View; r 64-80) This B&B in a quiet
location to the southeast of town, reached along
Gaelic football clubs are as common in Ireland as green fields and pub signs bearing the G word.
However, among Kerrymen, the obsession with the sport reaches fever pitch. Forget about soccer
or even hurling; this obsession is akin to rugby in New Zealand and soccer in Brazil.
Run by the GAA (Gaelic Athletic Association), the 15-a-side game is played with a heavy leather
ball on a rectangular grass pitch with H-shaped, net-backed goals. Teams score through a confusing combination of kicking, carrying, hand-passing and soloing (dropping and toe-kicking the
ball into the hands). The game, which closely resembles Australian Rules football, dates back to
the 16th century, but took its current form in the 19th century.
If you would like to watch some Gaelic football and youre in town during the season (February to September), head to the Fossa GAA Ground on the N72, 1.6km west of the centre. To
learn about the game from some lifelong pub commentators, have a drink at the bar-cum-Gaelic
football shrine Jimmy OBriens (Fair Hill).
Top End
oFairview (%34164; www.fairviewkillarney.com;
Lewis Rd; s/d 80/130; pwi) Alluring touches
such as curvy fittings, antique furniture, underfloor heating, Jacuzzi baths and plasma-screen
TVs give this guesthouse both comfort and
character. The courteous service and the location (walking distance from the centre, but out
of the hubbub) are both perfect.
Arbutus Hotel (% 31037; www.arbutuskillarney
.com; College St; s/d from 80/150; hFeb-Nov) Bedrooms range from those with 1920s Celtic
Deco furniture to more modern rooms with
black-and-white bathrooms and the bath in
a sweeping alcove. Trad sessions fire up in
Buckleys Bar on Saturday and Monday nights
and Sunday lunchtimes.
The Ross (%31855; www.theross.ie; Kenmare Pl; tw &
d 170-225; pi) This unrepentantly modern,
29-room boutique hotel cheekily uses the pool
and spa of its older sibling, the Killarney Park
hotel. A chic haven, it features a cocktail bar,
a restaurant reached by a glass staircase and
purple-lit corridors with thick carpets patterned with huge, pink flowers.
K I L L A R N E Y E a t i n g 251
Midrange
EATING
Jam (%31441; 77 High St; snacks & meals 2-8; h8am6pm Mon-Sat) This funky little caf is a healthy pit
stop for hot meals, soups, salads, sandwiches,
and coffee and cake.
Cathleens Country Kitchen (%33778; New St; breakfast & lunch 3.50-11; h9am-5.30pm) The place for
a breakfast roll, boiled bacon for lunch and
no-nonsense service.
Sceale Eile (% 35066; 73 High St; mains 6-11;
h9.30am-5pm Mon-Sat) This canteen caf, with
Budget
COUNTY KERRY
COUNTY KERRY
FOOTBALL CRAZY
252 K I L L A R N E Y D r i n k i n g & E n t e r t a i n m e n t
Top End
Gabys Seafood Restaurant (%32519; 27 High St;
mains 18-50; h6-10pm Mon-Sat) Dissenters mutter
that Gabys is overpriced and overrated, preferring alternatives such as nearby Foleys,
but we found the restaurant to be well deserving of its awards, which seem to number
one for each of its 31 years of slick but warm
service. Peruse the menu by the fire before
drifting past the wine cellar to the low-lit
dining room, where youll savour exquisite
Gallic dishes such as lobster in a secret sauce
that includes cognac and cream. There are
even a few choices for non-seafood lovers.
Most pubs put on live music, and most
nights are lively here even Mondays, when
many of the towns hospitality staff are released to the fun side of the bar. Plunkett
and College Sts are lined with pubs.
OConnors (%30977; High St) Typically, this
tiny pub is one of Killarneys most popular
haunts. Theres entertainment every night,
from trad sessions to stand-up comedy, storytelling and pub theatre.
Killarney Grand (%31159; Main St; music 9pm2.45am) Theres free entry before 11pm to this
busy Killarney institution, where trad music
gives way to live bands, set dancing on
Wednesdays and a nightclub at weekends.
Granary (%20075; Touhills Lane) Hidden down
the alley next to the Killarney Grand, this
bar/restaurant is one of the coolest hangouts
in town, with low lighting, exposed stone
walls, and leather sofas. Bands and DJs play
at weekends.
McSorleys (% 37280; College St) A popular,
clubby bar with multicoloured lighting and
kilt-clad cover bands.
Gleneagle (% 36000; Muckross Rd) You can
catch cabaret nightly during the summer, or
bop late at ODs Nightclub on Friday and
Saturday nights.
Cinemas
Killarney Cineplex (%37007; Kenmare Pl; adult/child
9/5.50) This four-screener has a good run of
contemporary releases.
SHOPPING
Variety Sounds (%35755; 7 College St) An eclectic music shop with a good range of traditional music, instruments, sheet music and
learn-to-play books.
Aran Sweater Market (%39756; College St) Aran
sweaters galore wrap round you at this
well-stocked place.
Killarney Outlet Centre (% 36744; Fair Hill)
This mall has a number of shops including Lowe Alpine, Nike Factory Store and
Blarney Woollen Mills, all selling brandname clothing and other products at
healthy discounts.
OSullivans Outdoor Store (% 26927; New St)
Theres a general selection of activity gear
at OSullivans branches.
Brcn (%34902; 26 High St) One of the craft
shops offering interesting items such as
local craftwork alongside reproduced vintage
Guinness advertisements and touristy fare.
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A R O U N D K I L L A R N E Y K i l l a r n e y N a t i o n a l Pa r k 253
Train
Killarneys train station (%31067) is on
Park Rd, east of the centre. There are up
to three direct trains a day to Cork (22.50,
1 hours) and nine to Tralee (8.50, 45
minutes). There are direct trains to Dublin, but you may have to change at Mallow,
while Waterford and Limerick require a
few changes.
GETTING AROUND
Car
The centre of Killarney can be thick with
traffic at times. Budget (%34341; Kenmare Pl)
is the only car-hire outfit with an office in
town; Avis (%36655; Beech Rd) has a booth at the
tourist office from June to August. Otherwise contact the companies at the airport.
There is a sizeable, free car park next to
St Marys Cathedral. The central car parks
cost 1 per hour, 8.30am to 6.30pm Monday
to Saturday.
.com)
Bicycle
Bus
Bus ireann (% 34777, 30011) operates from
next to the train station, with regular links
to Tralee (7.50, 35 minutes, hourly); Cork
(14.50, two hours, 15 daily); Dublin (22,
six hours, six daily); Galway (20.50, seven
DETOUR: AGHADOE
On a hilltop 5km west of town, Aghadoes
views of Killarney, the lakes and Inisfallen
Island have for centuries moved tourists
to trek up here. At the eastern end of the
meadow, in front of the Aghadoe Heights
Hotel, are the ruins of a Romanesque
church and the 13th-century Parkavonear
Castle. Parkavonears keep, still standing,
is one of the few cylindrical rather than
rectangular keeps built by the Normans in
Ireland. Unsurprisingly, its name translates
as field of the meadow.
To get there by car from Killarney, turn
right off the N72 after the turning for Killarney Riding Stables. Between Monday and
Saturday, June to September, four daily
buses link Killarney and Aghadoe. Some
tours stop there.
Jaunting Car
If youre not on two wheels, Killarneys traditional transport is the horse-drawn jaunting
car (%33358; www.killarneyjauntingcars.com), which
comes with a driver known as a jarvey. The
pick-up point, nicknamed the Ha Ha or
the Block, is on Kenmare Pl. Trips cost
40 to 70, depending on distance; traps
officially carry four people. Jaunting cars
also congregate in the N71 car park for
Muckross House and Abbey, and at the Gap
of Dunloe.
AROUND KILLARNEY
KILLARNEY NATIONAL PARK
Any cynicism built up among Killarneys
My friend kissed the Blarney Stone and all
I got was this lousy T-shirt stores evaporates
when you enter the park. Buses rumble up
to Ross Castle and Muckross House, but
its possible to flee the rest of tourist-kind
in 10,236 hectares, among Irelands only
wild herd of native Red Deer, the countrys
largest area of ancient Oakwoods and views
of most of its major mountains.
The glacial Lough Leane (the Lower Lake
or Lake of Learning), Muckross Lake and
the Upper Lake make up about a quarter of
the park. Their peaty waters are as rich in
wildlife as the surrounding soil: cormorants
COUNTY KERRY
COUNTY KERRY
lonelyplanet.com
254 A R O U N D K I L L A R N E Y K i l l a r n e y N a t i o n a l Pa r k
lonelyplanet.com
0
0
AROUND KILLARNEY
To Inch (37km);
Anascual (43km);
Dingle (58km)
To Killorglin (2km);
Catherciveen (37km)
4 km
2 miles
To Rockfield;
Kerry Airport (11km);
Crag Cave (22km);
Tralee (28km);
Limerick (88km)
To Tralee
(36km)
R563
ve
Ri
N22
Laune
Killarney
International
Hostel
Ballydowney
Fossa
Aghadoe
Beaufort
N72
See Killarney
Map (p248)
Knockreer
House &
Gardens
H ag
Lough
Gouragh
Lough
Callee
Mt Carrantuohil
(1039m)
Ma c g i
lly c u
d dy
's
e
Re
Tomies
Mountain
(735m)
Cushnavalley
Lake
Auger
Lake
Gap of
Dunloe
ks
Purple
Mountain
(832m)
lley
Va
ay
ck
Bla erry W
K
Shehy
Mountain
(571m)
Black
Valley
Hostel
N71
Upper
Lake
Torc
Mountain
(535m)
rry
Ke
y
Wa
Galway
Bridge
Ladies'
View
Muckross
Abbey
Muckross Lake
(Middle Lake)
Meeting
of the Waters
Gearhameen
N22
To Cork
(73km)
To Cork
(73km)
Lough
Guitane
Torc
Waterfall
Devil's Punch
Bowl
Mangerton
Mountain
(839m)
Ross Castle
Inisfallen Island
Rd; adult/child 5.30/2.10; h9am-6.30pm Jun-Aug, 9.30am5.30pm Sepmid-Oct & mid-MarMay, 9.30am-4.30pm Tue-
A R O U N D K I L L A R N E Y K i l l a r n e y N a t i o n a l Pa r k 255
Finian the Leper in the 7th century. The islands fame dates from the early 13th century
when the Annals of Inisfallen were written
here. The annals, now in the Bodleian Library
in Oxford, England, remain a vital source of
information on early Munster history. On
Inisfallen (the name means island) are the
ruins of a 12th-century oratory with a carved
Romanesque doorway and a monastery on the
site of St Finians original.
You can hire boats from Ross Castle to row
to the island. Alternatively, boaters charge
passengers around 7 each for the crossing.
Some Gap of Dunloe boats and bus tours also
stop here.
Muckross Estate
The core of Killarney National Park is the
Muckross Estate, donated to the state by
Arthur Bourn Vincent in 1932. Muckross House
(% 31440; www.muckross-house.ie; adult/child/family
5.50/2.25/13.75, combined ticket with farms 8.25/3.75/21;
h9am-6pm Sep-Jun, to 7pm Jul & Aug; pw) is a
May, 1-6pm Sat, Sun & public holidays mid-MarApr & Oct).
Gap of Dunloe
Geographically, the Gap of Dunloe is outside the Killarney National Park, but most
people include it in their visit to the park. In
the winter, its an awe-inspiring mountain
pass, overshadowed by Purple Mountain and
Macgillycuddys Reeks. In high summer, its
a bottleneck for the tourist trade, with buses
COUNTY KERRY
COUNTY KERRY
Killarney
National
Park
Kerry W
ay
Black
Lake
's
le
Beenkeragh
Mountain
(1010m)
Ross
Old
Castle
Copper
Mines
Lough Leane
(Lower Lake)
Muckross
Estate
N72
Fles
Kate Kearney's
Cottage
To Glencar
(10km)
To Mallow
(57km)
Ferry
Departure
r
Rive
Brown
Island
Inisfallen
Island
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256 A R O U N D K I L L A R N E Y W a l k i n g
ORGANISED TOURS
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A R O U N D K I L L A R N E Y K i l l a r n e y t o K e n m a re 257
KILLARNEY TO KENMARE
The N71 to Kenmare winds between rock
and lake, with plenty of laybys to stop and
admire the views. Watch out for the buses
squeezing along the road. About 2km south
of the entrance to Muckross House, a path
leads 200m to the pretty Torc Waterfall.
After another 8km on the N71 you come
to Ladies View, where the fine views along
Upper Lake were much enjoyed by Queen
Victorias ladies-in-waiting, who gave the
viewpoint its name. There are cafs here
and 5km further on at Molls Gap, another
good viewpoint.
COUNTY KERRY
COUNTY KERRY
WALKING
lonelyplanet.com
258 R I N G O F K E R R Y
lonelyplanet.com
RING OF KERRY
This 179km circuit of the Iveragh Peninsula
pops up on every self-respecting tourist
itinerary for a good reason. The secondary road winds past pristine beaches, the
island-dotted Atlantic, medieval ruins,
mountains, and loughs (lakes). Even locals stop their cars to gawk at the rugged
coastline particularly between Waterville
and Caherdaniel in the southwest of the
peninsula, where the beauty dial is turned
up to 11.
Although it can be done in a day by
car or bus, or three days by bicycle, the
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R I N G O F K E R R Y G e t t i n g A r o u n d 259
GETTING AROUND
KILLORGLIN
0
0
RING OF KERRY
Brandon
Creek
Atlantic
Ocean
Kilcummin
Cloghane
Mt
Beenoskee
(825m)
Smerwick
Harbour
Sybil
Point
Slieve Mish
Mountains
Camp
Annascaul
Great
Blasket
Blasket
Sound
Dunmore
Head
Slea
Head
Dunquin
Ventry
Castlemaine
Kerry
Airport
Inch
Lispole
Dingle
N23
N22
Farranfore
Lougher
Ballyferriter
N70
Mt Baurtregaum
(850m)
N86
Dingle
Peninsula
Ballydavid
Inishtooskert
10 km
6 miles
Castleisland
N22
N86
Killorglin
N70
Glenbeigh
Dingle
Bay
Inishvickillane
Rosbeigh
Strand
Seefin
Mountain
(494m)
Kells
Bay
N70
ng
Ri
Doulus
Head
Ballycarbery Castle
rry Kells
Ke
Ring
Forts
In
n
ve
of K
N70
Kenmare
KERRY
Tahilla
N70
n
Ke
Sneem
Lamb's
Head
Deriana
Lough
Ring
Waterville Lough
Ballinskelligs
Currane
Castle
Eagles
Ballinskelligs
Hill
Priory
(543m)
Ballinskelligs
Bay
Lookout
Staigue Fort
Caherdaniel
Castlecove
Derrynane House
re R
ma
Beara
Peninsula
r
ive
Lauragh
CORK
Caha
Mountains
Glengarriff
COUNTY KERRY
COUNTY KERRY
Ballghbeama
Gap
Ballaghisheen
Pass
Siopa Chill
Rialaig
Skellig
Michael
Killarney
National
Park
N71
Portmagee
Bolus
Head
Muckross
Iveragh
Peninsula
Ri
Small
Skellig
N71
Reenard Point
Bray
Head
Saint
Finan's Ballinskelligs
Bay
Lough
Leane
Festivals
Mt Carrantuohil
(1039m)
Coomacarrea
(772m)
Valentia
Chapeltown Island
Puffin
Macgillycuddy's
Reeks
Been
Hill
(668m)
Caherciveen
Beginish
Knightstown
of
N22
Killarney
Lough
Caragh
260 R I N G O F K E R R Y K e r r y B o g V i l l a g e M u s e u m
Sleeping
Wests Holiday Park (% 976 1240; enquiries@west
caravans.com; Killarney Rd; camp sites 18; hApr-Oct)
renovated church, transports you to Mediterranean soil with its tapas and larger raciones
dishes (for sharing), such as grilled squid,
marinated anchovy fillets and pan-fried oyster
mushrooms. There are 40 Spanish wines to
choose from. Bands play at weekends, with
occasional flamenco dancing.
Bunkers Bar & Coffee Shop (%976 1381; Iveragh
Rd; mains 7-19; h9am-10pm) This pub/restaurant
pays no dues to smart dcor, but offers a
good choice of grub from steak to chicken
Kiev. Breakfast is about 6.50.
Devs N The Square (the Square; 17-25; h9am3pm & 6-10pm) Unpretentious Devs offers
hefty duckling, steak and lamb dishes, accompanied by jacket potatoes with garlic
butter. Try the grilled Atlantic salmon with
lemon-and-herb couscous.
Nicks Seafood Restaurant (%976 1219; info@nicks
flair makes this fine restaurant an enduring favourite. Dishes such as moules and
shellfish mornay get the first-class preparation they deserve; or choose the best Kerry
beef and lamb or great vegetarian dishes.
The extensive wine list features a seductive
house wine.
Pubs include the old and spacious Cliffords Tavern (Upper Bridge St), which fills up on
Friday and Saturday nights when there are
trad sessions. There are Thursday sessions
at the Laune Bar (Lower Bridge St) on the corner
above the bridge.
ROSBEIGH STRAND
This unusual beach, 1.6km west of Glenbeigh, is a tendril of sand protruding into
Dingle Bay, with views of Inch Point and
the Dingle Peninsula. On one side the sea is
ruffled by Atlantic winds; on the other its
sheltered and calm.
Burkes Activity Centre (%976 8872; Rosbeigh) offers horse trekking, crazy golf, a hedge maze
and a working farm.
CAHERCIVEEN
%066 / pop 1300
Information
Caherciveen has a post office and two banks,
both with ATMs. The Allied Irish Bank
(AIB) has a bureau de change.
Internet Caf (%948 1885; 12 Main St; per 30min/1hr
3/5; h9am-9pm Jun-Aug, 11am-7pm rest of year)
Tourist office (%947 2589; Community Centre;
hApr-Oct) Opens sporadically. The Old Barracks Heritage
Centre also has information.
Sights
OCONNELLS BIRTHPLACE
the bridge en route from Kells, is the humble birthplace of Daniel OConnell, The
Great Liberator (see p37). On the opposite
bank is an amenity area with a handsome
bust of the great Catholic leader. There are
paths along the river, with boards explaining
the areas wildlife.
BARRACKS
Activities
Local walks include the 5 hour Killelan
Mountain circuit, and the less strenuous
foreshore walk to the castle and ring forts.
From June to September, a two-hour
guided walk (%947 3186; adult/child 7/4) to archaeological and historic sites leaves from
R I N G O F K E R R Y C a h e r c i v e e n 261
Festivals
Celtic music is a major component of the Caherciveen Festival of Music & the Arts (%947 3772;
www.celticmusicfestival.com), which takes place over
the bank holiday weekend at the beginning
of August and features cover bands, busking
competitions and set dancing.
Sleeping
Sive Hostel (%947 2717; sivehostel.ie; 15 East End; dm/d
16/44) There is a faint hospital whiff about
the pink sheets in this IHH propertys small
dorms, but the comfortable TV lounge is
a winner.
Mannix Point Camping & Caravan Park (%947
2806; www.campinginkerry.com; Mannix Point; camp sites
19; hMar-Oct) Mortimer Moriartys award-
Eating
Helens Coffee Shop (%947 2056; Main St; snacks 4-6)
Helens is a cheerful gem of a place serving a range of coffees as well as various tasty
soups and sandwiches, homemade cakes and
confectionary.
Amarantine (%947 3499; 14 Church St; meals & snacks
4-11) This nondescript caf-wine bar has a
good name locally for its ciabattas, salads,
pastries and mains.
Fertha (%947 2023; 20 Main St; bar food 7-12)
This is a spacious pub offering a range of
steady dishes including roasts and poached
salmon.
COUNTY KERRY
COUNTY KERRY
262 R I N G O F K E R R Y Va l e n t i a I s l a n d
Entertainment
Sleeping
VALENTIA ISLAND
%066 / pop 715
SKELLIG ISLANDS
gannet pop 45,000
The Skellig Islands (Oilein na Scealaga) explode out of the Atlantic Ocean with a defiance
to match the empty-eyed gannets perching on
their barren rocks. They measure up to any
of the attractions offered by yellow-bellied
landlubbers on the mainland, but youll need
to do your best grisly sea-dog impression on
the 12km crossing, which can be rough. There
are no toilets or shelter on Skellig Michael,
the only island visitors are permitted to land
on. Bring something to eat and drink and
wear stout shoes and weatherproof clothing,
including a waterproof jacket for the wavespattered boat trip. (The boat operators can
also often lend passengers old waterproof
jackets and trousers for the crossing.)
Activities
The Skelligs are a bird-watching paradise.
Keep a sharp lookout during the boat trip
and you may spot diminutive storm petrels
lonelyplanet.com
Skellig Michael
The jagged, 217m-high rock of Skellig Michael
(Archangel Michaels Rock; like St Michaels
Mount in Cornwall, England and Mont Saint
Michel in Normandy, France) is the larger of
the two islands and a Unesco World Heritage site. It looks like the last place on earth
that anyone would try to land, let alone
establish a community, yet early Christian
monks survived here from the 6th until the
12th or 13th century. Influenced by the Coptic Church founded by St Anthony in the
deserts of Egypt and Libya, their determined
quest for ultimate solitude led them to this
remote, windblown edge of Europe.
R I N G O F K E R R Y S k e l l i g I s l a n d s 263
SCARY SKELLIG
Small Skellig
While Skellig Michael looks like two triangles linked by a spur, Small Skellig is longer,
lower and much craggier. From a distance it
looks as if someone battered it with a feather
pillow that burst. Close up you realise youre
looking at a colony of over 20,000 pairs of
breeding gannets, the second-largest breeding colony in the world. Most boats circle
the island so you can see the gannets, and
there may be a chance of seeing basking
seals. As Small Skellig is a bird sanctuary,
no landing is permitted.
COUNTY KERRY
COUNTY KERRY
264 R I N G O F K E R R Y S k e l l i g R i n g
SKELLIG RING
Sights
SIOPA CHILL RIALAIG
Activities
St Finians Bay is good for surfing. Ballinskelligs Water Sports (%086-389 4849) hires out surfboards, kayaks and windsurfers, and gives
lessons. Sean Feehan (%947 9182) offers fishing,
diving and boat trips to the Skelligs.
WATERVILLE
%066 / pop 550
Sights
At the north end of Lough Currane, Church
Island has the ruins of a medieval church and
beehive cell. Reputedly founded as a monastic settlement by St Finian in the 6th century, it is a good alternative to the Skelligs in
choppy weather.
Chartering a three-man boat costs 40 to
50; contact Lakelands B&B (see below).
Activities
Waterville Golf Links (% 947 4102) charges a
hefty 165 per round, or 115 before 8am
and after 4pm Mondays to Thursdays; but
it is one of the most stunning links courses
in the world and attracts serious golfers
from all over. A cheaper alternative is the
Skellig Bay Golf Club (%947 4133; Mon-Fri 60, Sat &
Sun 70).
There is free fishing for sea trout on Lough
Currane and the other lakes; a state licence
is required. Sea angling offers the chance
of catching mackerel, pollack and shark.
Tadhg OSullivan tackle shop (%947 4433; Main St)
has information.
R I N G O F K E R R Y W a t e r v i l l e 265
CAHERDANIEL
%066 / pop 350
Hiding between Derrynane Bay and the foothills of Eagles Hill, Caherdaniel is a tiny hamlet with a surprising vibrancy pulsing along
its few streets. It boasts a Blue Flag beach,
activities galore and the ancestral seat of Daniel OConnell, The Liberator (p37). At night,
you can toast the village from beneath the
driftwood and fishing tackle decorating the
Blind Piper pub (p266).
Wave Crest (see p266) offers tourist
information.
Sights
DERRYNANE NATIONAL HISTORIC PARK
Daniel OConnell, the campaigner for Catholic emancipation. His family bought the house
and surrounding parkland having grown rich
on smuggling with France and Spain. Its
largely furnished with OConnell memorabilia, including the restored triumphal chariot
COUNTY KERRY
COUNTY KERRY
266 R I N G O F K E R R Y S t a i g u e F o r t
Activities
Caherdaniel competes with Valentia Island
as the diving base for the Iveragh Peninsula.
Try Activity Ireland (%947 5277; www.activity-ireland
.com), which also organises a range of other
outdoor activities including rock-climbing.
Popular Derrynane Sea Sports (%087-908 1208)
organises sailing, canoeing, windsurfing and
water-skiing for all levels, operating from the
beach between June and August.
Eagle Rock Equestrian Centre (%947 5145) offers
beach, mountain and woodland treks for all
levels (25 per hour).
John OShea (%087-670 5121; Bunavalla Pier) runs
fishing trips and excursions to the Skelligs.
Walkers should head to Bunavalla Pier,
3.2km downhill from the N70, west of Caherdaniel. Walk there and youll descend towards Irelands best known view (according
to the Scarriff Inns sign at the top) along
what could be Irelands windiest, steepest lane.
Keep left and conserve your energy for the
slog back uphill.
Wave Crest (%947 5188; www.wavecrestcamping.com;
camp sites 16; hmid-Marmid-Oct; i) This friendly
site, 1.6km southeast of Caherdaniel, has a
superb coastal setting and well-kept facilities.
Booking during peak season is advised.
Glenbeg Caravan & Camping Park (%947 5182;
glenbeg@eircom.net; camp sites 17; hmid-Aprearly Oct)
STAIGUE FORT
This ring fort is an imposing sight at the head
of a valley, and a powerful evocation of lateIron Age Ireland. Its circular stone wall, up
to 6m high and 4m thick, is surrounded by
a protective bank and ditch. Steps criss-cross
the interior of the wall, which contains two
small rooms and a narrow entrance tunnel.
Staigue probably dates from the 3rd or
4th century, and the buildings sophistication suggests it belonged to a powerful chieftain. Despite having sweeping views down
to the coast, it cant be seen from the sea. It
may have been a communal place of refuge,
or a cultural and commercial centre where
people came to celebrate, exchange goods
and stage ceremonies.
The fort is near the village of Castlecove,
about 4km off the N70, reached by a potholed country lane that narrows as it climbs
to a road-end car park beside the site. Traffic jams can occur.
lonelyplanet.com
SNEEM
Halfway between Caherdaniel and Kenmare, Sneem (An tSnaidhm) is a good place
to stop for an ice cream and a clamber on
the rocks under the bridge (not at the same
time). The villages Gaeilge name translates
as the knot, which is thought to refer to
the River Sneem that swirls, knot-like, into
Kenmare Bay nearby. Its nicknamed the
knot in the Ring of Kerry.
President Charles de Gaulle is among the
luminaries who have been attracted to the
peaceful spot, and he is commemorated by
a statue. In the sculpture park are pieces
donated from around the world, including
the Goddess Isis from Egypt and the Peaceful
Panda from China.
KENMARE
%064 / pop 2460
Orientation
In the 18th century, Kenmare was laid out
on an X-plan, with a triangular market
square in the centre and Fair Green nestling in its upper V. To the south, Henry and
Main Sts are the main shopping and eating/
drinking thoroughfares, with Shelbourne St
linking them at the southern end. Kenmare
Bay stretches out to the southwest, and there
are glorious views of the mountains.
R I N G O F K E R R Y S n e e m 267
Information
The post office on the corner of Henry and
Shelbourne Sts has local walking maps and
guides, as well as internet access (1 for 15
minutes). There are two Kenmare websites:
www.kenmare.eu and www.kenmare.com.
Theres free parking throughout town, with
a two-hour limit between 9am and 6pm.
AIB (cnr Main & Henry Sts) ATM and bureau de change.
Bank of Ireland (the Square) Also has ATM and
bureau de change.
Sights
The Kenmare Heritage Centre (%41233; the Square;
adult/child 2.70/1.30; h9.15am- 7pm Mon-Sat Jul & Aug,
to 5.30pm Mon-Sat Easter-Jun & Sep), reached through
COUNTY KERRY
COUNTY KERRY
268 R I N G O F K E R R Y K e n m a re
Activities
Kenmare Golf Club (%41291; 18 holes Mon-Fri 50, Sat
& Sun 55) has its entrance on the R569, about
100m from the top of Main St.
Star Sailing (%41222; Dauros), on the R571, offers activities including sailing, sea kayaking,
diving, windsurfing, pony trekking, cycling
and hillwalking for novices and experts.
Warm yourself on tea, coffee, rum and the
captains sea shanties on a two-hour quest to
spot sea cubs and other sea life with Seafari
(%42059; Kenmare Pier; adult/child 20/12.50). Reservations are advised.
For fishing, try Kenmare Bay Angling & Sightseeing Cruises (%087-2592209; Kenmare Pier).
For horse riding, theres Dromquinna Stables
(%41043; Templenoe), 10km west of town on the
Ring of Kerry (N70).
The tourist office has details of walks
around Kenmare Bay and into the hills, on
sections of the Kerry Way (see p699) and
Beara Way (see p698).
Sleeping
Kenmare Lodge (%40662; 27 Main St; dm 15-20, tw
34, d 50) This pleasant, modern hostel has a
patio, and cream walls enlivened by Modernist reproductions. There are laundry facilities
and a roomy kitchen and dining area.
Ring of Kerry Caravan & Camping Park (%41648;
Reen; camp sites 18-20; hApr-Sep) Mountains and
sea surround this beautiful site in wooded
country. Its 3.5km west of town and 1km
down a side road, off the north side of the
Sneem road.
MIDRANGE
Eating
Kenmare has a deserved reputation for its
fine eateries.
BUDGET
lonelyplanet.com
R I N G O F K E R R Y K e n m a re 277
Entertainment
For good trad sessions try Crowleys on Henry
St, while Florry Batts in the same street sees
a cheerful crowd and occasional sing-alongs.
A wide range of acts plays PF McCarthys on
Main Street (Thursday to Saturday).
MIDRANGE
Horseshoe (%41553; 3 Main St; mains 12-26; h510pm) The decent vegetarian options at
this gastro-pub include spinach and wildonion risotto, while steaks, scallops, burgers and mussels are prepared using simple,
traditional recipes.
oBcs (%49300; Main St; mains 13-25;
h8.30am-9.30pm) Everythings homemade; the
produce is local and seasonal; the ales are
from microbreweries; the dcor is Art Deco
lamps and black-and-white French photos.
This could be Irelands best midrange restaurant its certainly great value. The bouillabaisse is recommended, as is Sunday brunch
(9am to 4pm).
PF McCarthys (%41516; 14 Main St; dinner 13-27;
hnoon-3pm Mon-Sat, 5-9pm Tue-Sat) A convivial
pub with German and Czech beers on tap,
and dishes such as Thai crab lasagna and
Moroccan bean stew alongside the usual
hostelry fare.
TOP END
world style to Kenmare. The food is satisfyingly modernist, with sushi starters and
Pacific Rim flair, but with inventive Irish
touches. Vegetarians and wine buffs are
well catered for.
Shopping
Kenmare has a disproportionate number of
quality craft shops. Theres a market (%84236;
the Square) on Wednesday mornings (closed
from December to January). On August 15
every year, marketers from throughout Ireland, with crafts, local produce, ponies, cattle,
sheep, bric-a-brac, etc come to town.
PFK Gold & Silversmith (%42590; pfkelly@indigo.ie;
18 Henry St) Minimilastic jewellery by Paul Kelly
and contemporary Irish designers. Check out
the salt servers with enamel linings by West
Cork designer Marika OSullivan. Prices start
at 80; Kelly also takes commissions.
Soundz of Muzic (%42268; 9 Henry St) Has a selection of Irish and contemporary music.
Noel & Holland (%42464; 3 Bridge St) Find that
elusive favourite at this excellent secondhand
bookshop that sells some rare editions and
also has a terrific range of paperbacks, all
neatly collated.
Kerry Wool Market (%89168; Henry St) A mountain of Aran jumpers.
Getting Around
Finnegans Cycle Centre (%41083; Shelbourne St) is
the Raleigh Rent-a-Bike dealer, with bikes
costing 15/85 per day/week.
COUNTY KERRY
COUNTY KERRY
BUDGET
COUNTY KERRY
bayviewtralee@eircom.net; Killeen; camp sites 14; hAprOct) This small park in a pleasant tree-lined
0
0
TRALEE
INFORMATION
Antech...........................................1 B3
Courthouse....................................2 C3
Polymaths......................................3 C3
Post Office.....................................4 C3
Public Toilets................................(see 5)
Tourist Office.................................5 C4
SLEEPING
Brandon Hotel................................7
Conn Oriel.....................................8
Finnegan's Holiday Hostel..............9
Grand Hotel.................................10
Imperial Hotel..............................11
To R556; Bayview
Caravan & Camping
Park (1.5km);
Ballybunion (33km)
Pe
mb
ro
St
St
ke
No
rt
r Rd
ENTERTAINMENT
Aquadome...................................19 B4
Baily's Corner.............................(see 19)
Club Fabric...................................20 B3
Harty's Lounge Bar....................(see 20)
Siamsa Tire...................................21 B4
San gs.....................................22 B3
nd
Stra
St
d
ar
w
14
25
ge
Br
High St
6
26
St
Tc e
19
Town
Park
South
Circular
Tralee Train
Station
To N69;
Listowel (22km) Joh
23
n
Jo e
S h e eh y
Rd
Upper Castle St
21
To N86; Blennerville
Windmill (1km);
Dingle (40km)
To Ballyard
Station (150m)
St
17
3
Lowe 15
r Cas
tle S
t
11
Denn
y
Ivy
18
The
The Mall
Square
16
12
Central
Plaza Retail 10
Centre
20
7
Ed
w
ar
d
McCo
w an's
La
D3
B3
C3
B3
Ed
As
he
St
22
C3
C3
C3
B3
St
hC
ircula
200 m
0.1 miles
TRANSPORT
Bus Station...................................23
Jackie Power Tours & Cabs...........24
Taxi Rank.....................................25
Tralee Gas & Bicycle Supplies.......26
13
24
B3
A2
C3
C3
C3
EATING
Baily's Corner...............................12 C3
Dunnes Stores..............................13 C2
Dunnes Stores..............................14 B3
Finnegan's Cellar Restaurant........(see 9)
Low
er R
ock
Rd
COUNTY KERRY
Information
family 8/5/22; h10am-4.30pm Tue-Fri Jan-Mar, 9.30am5pm Tue-Sat Apr, May & Sep-Dec, 9.30am-5.30pm Jun-Aug).
Sleeping
rwell
yde
Mo
ssell
R u St
Orientation
Festivals
id
St
12/10; h10am-10pm Jul & Aug, 10am-10pm Mon, Wed & Fri,
noon-10pm Tue & Thu, 11am-8pm Sat & Sun rest of the year),
Prin
ce's
TRALEE
N O R T H E R N K E R R Y T r a l e e 279
sQ
uay
per day, Monday to Saturday. The metered parking in the rest of town is 1.20
per hour.
Antech (%719 1441; 40 Bridge St; per hr 4) For
Prin
ce'
NORTHERN KERRY
lonelyplanet.com
St
278 N O R T H E R N K E R R Y T r a l e e
280 N O R T H E R N K E R R Y T r a l e e
Eating
There are plenty of lunchtime eateries in
Tralee, and a couple of excellent restaurants
and pubs.
Bailys Corner (%712 6230; Ashe St; bar meals 4-7)
A top choice for soup, sandwiches and a chat
with friendly landlord Garry and the regulars
at the bar. A relaxed mid-morning scene gives
way to a busy rest-of-the-day.
Hartys Lounge Bar (%712 5385; Lower Castle St;
bar meals 4.50-9, mains 9-22) Despite its svelte appearance, this modernised Tralee institution
serves no-nonsense nosh, but with tagliatelle
joining beef and Guinness stew on the menu.
It was the birthplace of the Rose of Tralee
festival in 1959.
La Scala (%712 2477; the Square; mains 6-19;
h10am-12am Fri & Sat, 10am-11pm Sun-Thu) A popular
Irish-Italian eatery where locals banquet on
pizza and pasta, sizzling fajitas and meatballs.
Breakfast is served until 5pm.
Mozarts (%712 7977; 4 Ashe St; snacks & mains 8-20;
h9am-6pm Mon-Sat) Not content with composing
Don Giovanni, hes inspired a bistro in Tralee.
Mozarts is great for a daytime bite, serving
burritos and baps, focaccias and croissants.
Finnegans Cellar Restaurant (%718 1400; 17 Denny
candles on the intimate tables, Finnegans
serves reasonably priced, traditional meat and
fish dishes given a twist by unusual sauces,
herbs and dressings.
Restaurant David Norris (%718 5654; Ivy Tce; mains
18-24; h5.30-9.30pm Tue-Fri, Sat 7-9.30pm) Norris
modern faade is uninspiring, but inside the
dcor is stylish and the menu exciting. Starters
such as crisp-fried calamari are terrific. The
emphasis is on steaks and shanks, but vegetarians and fish fanciers have delicious options
Entertainment
PUBS & CLUBS
lonelyplanet.com
Getting Around
Theres a taxi rank on the Mall, or try Jackie
Power Tours & Cabs (%712 9444; 2 Lower Rock St).
Tralee Gas & Bicycle Supplies (%712 2018; Strand St)
hires out bikes.
AROUND TRALEE
Crag Cave
in 1983, when problems with water pollution led to a search for the source of the local
river. In 1989, 300m of the 4km-long cave
were opened to the public; admission is by
30-minute guided tour. The remarkable rock
formations include a large, wine bottle-shaped
stalagmite in the Kitchen Cave; the Crystal
Gallery, with its thousands of straw-thin stalactites; and a stalagmite shaped like a statue
of the Madonna.
The cave is signposted from both Castleisland and the AbbeyfealeCastleisland stretch
of the N21. Castleisland is well connected with
both Tralee and Killarney by bus.
THEATRE
Ardfert
N O R T H E R N K E R R Y A r o u n d T r a l e e 281
LISTOWEL
%068 / pop 3900
Sights
Kerry Literary & Cultural Centre, with its
audiovisual Writers Exhibition (Seancha; %22212;
www.kerrywritersmuseum.com; 24 the Square; adult/child
COUNTY KERRY
COUNTY KERRY
lonelyplanet.com
282 N O R T H E R N K E R R Y L i s t o w e l
lonelyplanet.com
LISTOWEL
To R552;
Carrigafoyle
Castle (14km)
9
John B Keane Rd
INFORMATION
Bank of Ireland...............................1
North Kerry Together.....................2
Post Office.....................................3
Tourist Office.................................4
Hannn's Book Shop..................5
B3
B2
A1
B3
B3
D3
B2
B3
A2
m St
illia
W
Esso
Garage
To Millstream
House (1.5km);
Ballybunion (15km) 17
19
Churc
20
Market St
16
18
e
eal
SHOPPING
Blue Umbrella Gallery...................21 B3
The
Square
22
Childers
Park
13
Brid
ge
Rd
Listowel
Golf
Course
Garden of
Europe
Activities
Lartigue Monorailway (%24393; John B Keane Rd;
adult/child 6/3; h2-4pm May-Sep) was designed by
Frenchman Charles Lartigue. This unique
survivor of Victorian railway engineering
operated between the town and Ballybunion
on the coast. The renovated section of line is
short but fascinating, with manual turnstiles
at either end for swinging the train round.
Listowel Golf Course (%21592; per 9 holes 30),
on the banks of the River Feale, is about 2km
west of the centre off the N69 to Tarbert. You
can also walk through Childers Park and the
Garden of Europe to get there.
The River Feale provides many opportunities for angling year round. For licences
and information, contact Jim Halpin Fishing
Supplies (%22392; 24 Church St), which also sells
angling equipment.
The tourist office has leaflets on walks such
as the 3.5km river walk and the 10km Sive
walk, which takes in John B Keane Rd, a disused railway track and a bog.
Sleeping
To Billeragh House
Hostel (3.5km);
Tralee (22km)
N O R T H E R N K E R R Y L i s t o w e l 283
Eating
Listowel has several good eateries and a
supermarket on Market St.
Mai Fitzs (%23144 William St; lunch 4-9, mains 1223; hnoon-9pm Tue-Sun) A pleasant, small pub
serving chowder, breaded mushrooms and
the like. After 3pm, more solid dishes such as
Dingle Bay scampi are available.
Allos (%22880; Church St; mains 12-29; hnoon9pm Tue-Sat) A popular bar/bistro with an intimate feel created by the wooden booths and
saloon-style doors. As well as hake, monkfish and duck breast, the more expensive a
la carte menu (from 7pm) features continental dishes such as pork fillet wrapped in
Serrano ham.
Woulfes Horseshoe Bar (%21083; 14 Lower William
St; bar food 13-20, dinner 18-28; hnoon-9pm) Enjoy
the cosiness of the downstairs bar or the
upstairs restaurant at this long-established
place. The menu offers meat, chicken and
fish dishes with international touches.
Entertainment
Listowel has plenty of pubs, several with
live music and traditional sessions during
the week.
John B Keane (37 William St) Once run by the
late writer himself, this small, unassuming
bar is swathed in Keane memorabilia. At
9.15pm on Tuesday and Thursday during
July and August, his son performs sketches,
and excerpts from his plays are acted.
St Johns Theatre & Arts Centre (%22566; the
Square) The centre hosts drama, music and
dance events as well as art exhibitions.
Grape & Grain (%23001; Church St) Music can
be found at the weekends at this refurbished
Listowel institution, a good place for a pint
and a bite.
COUNTY KERRY
COUNTY KERRY
B2
B2
A2
B3
ENTERTAINMENT
Grape & Grain..............................19 B2
John B Keane...............................20 B2
St John's Theatre & Arts Centre...(see 4)
Riv
er F
EATING
Allo's............................................15
Mai Fitz's......................................16
Supermarket................................17
Woulfe's Horseshoe Bar...............18
11
B3
D3
B2
B3
SLEEPING
Allo's.........................................(see 15)
Listowel Arms Hotel......................14 B3
St 5
1
Listowel
Racecourse
10
Listowel Castle..............................10
Listowel Golf Course....................11
Literary Mural...............................12
St Mary's Church..........................13
TRANSPORT
Bus Stop.......................................22 B3
21
Mai
n
14
12
15
h St
To Tarbert (15km);
Car Ferry to
Clare (16km)
200 m
0.1 miles
284 D I N G L E P E N I N S U L A T o u r s
Shopping
Tarbert
AROUND LISTOWEL
Ballybunion
Carrigafoyle Castle
A fine location on the Shannon Estuary
adds to the romantic drama of this latemedieval castle (%43304; 9am-6pm May-Sep). Its
name comes from Carragain Phoill (Rock
of the Hole); its built in a channel between
the mainland and Carrig Island. Built by
the OConnors, who ruled most of northern
Kerry, the castle was besieged by the English
in 1580, retaken by OConnor, and finally
destroyed by Cromwells forces in 1649. You
can climb the spiral staircase to the top for
a good view of the estuary.
The castle is 2km west of the village of
Ballylongford (Bea Atha Longphuirb). On
Tuesday and Thursday, between September
and June, two buses link Ballylongford with
Tralee via Listowel.
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D I N G L E P E N I N S U L A D i n g l e 285
0
0
DINGLE PENINSULA
Kerry
Head
Ballyheigue
10 km
6 miles
Ballyheigue
Bay
Maharees
Islands
ATLANTIC
OCEAN
Brandon
Head
Banna
Strand
Banna
Ardfert
Kilshannig Rough
Point
Fahamore
Brandon
Tralee
Fenit
Bay
Brandon
Castlegregory Tralee
Blennerville
Brandon
Bay
Cappateigue
Ballydavid Creek
Cloghane
N86
Stradbally
Head
Mt
Kilcummin
Slieve Mish
Brandon
Smerwick
KERRY
Camp Mountains
(951m)
Harbour
N86
Mt
Dn An
Mt Baurtregaum
Beenoskee
Kilmalkedar
ir Fort
Connor
(850m)
Sybil
(825m)
Church
Pass
Mt Caherconree
Point
Ballydavid Gallarus Oratory
(825m) R561
Dingle
Lougher
Ballyferriter
Riasc
Peninsula Annascaul
Clogher
Monastic R559
Castlemaine
Inch
Settlement
Lispole
Inishtooskert
Dingle
N86
Dunquin Ventry
Castlemaine
Blasket
R559
Harbour
N70
Sound
Mt Eagle
(514m)
Dunmore
Killorglin
Head
Minard
Slea
Castle
Head Dunbeg
Fort
Great
Fahan
Blasket
Glenbeigh
Beehive
Dingle
Huts
Rossbeigh
Bay
Seefin
Strand
Mountain
Inishvickillane
Kells
Mt
(494m)
Bay
Carrantuohil
Iveragh
(1039m)
Peninsula
Kells
DINGLE PENINSULA
The northern-most promontory in Kerry
and Corks proud collection, the Dingle
Peninsula also has the subtlest charms. Its
mellow landscape is one of green hills and
golden sands, and culminates in Europes
most westerly point, gazing across the sound
at the ghost town on Great Blasket Island.
Of course, the friendly hills have their
mountainous areas, such as Mt Brandon and
the Connor Pass, but, on the whole, this is
calming country.
Centred on pretty Dingle town, the peninsula has a high concentration of ring
forts and other ancient ruins. Activities on
offer range from diving to playing the bodhrn. Theres an alternative way of life here
in the craft shops and cultural centres, trad
sessions and folkloric festivals found in the
Dingles tiny settlements.
Tours
A number of Killarney companies run daily
day trips by bus around the Dingle Peninsula (25). Alternatively, Dingle-based outfits operate guided two-hour minibus tours
of the peninsula from 15 per person.
N70
DINGLE
%066 / pop 1775
Been
Hill
(668m)
Macgillycuddy's
Reeks
Information
The banks on Main St have ATMs and
bureaux de change. The post office is off
Lower Main St. Parking is free throughout
town and 1 per hour in the car park at
the harbour.
An Caf Litertha (%915 2204; Dykegate Lane)
Bookshop specialising in Irish history.
COUNTY KERRY
COUNTY KERRY
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286 D I N G L E P E N I N S U L A D i n g l e
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D I N G L E P E N I N S U L A D i n g l e 287
0
0
DINGLE
County Kildare may boast the great polar explorer Ernest Shackleton as a native son, but Kerry has
its own polar hero, Tom Crean, who was a key member of several early Antarctic expeditions.
Crean (18771938) came from Gurtacurran, near Annascaul on the Dingle Peninsula. At age 15
he joined the British Navy, and was later a member of three of the four British Antarctic expeditions in the vessels Discovery (190104), Terra Nova (191013) and Endurance (191416).
Robert Falcon Scott and Shackleton both saw Tom Crean as a crucial member of their rival
expeditions. Shackletons letters to Crean reflect immense warmth and liking for the Kerryman,
whose physical and mental strengths were outstanding. When the Endurance was trapped and
crushed in ice and the crew sailed in small boats to Elephant Island, Shackleton chose Crean
as one of the small crew that continued on the epic 1300km sea voyage to South Georgia to
get help.
Crean served in WWI and retired in 1920. Shackleton wanted his fellow countryman to accompany him on his final expedition on the Quest in 1921, but Crean declined, having spent
more time in Antarctica than either Scott or Shackleton. He opened the South Pole Inn (p292)
at Annascaul, married and had three daughters.
It wasnt until decades later that biographer Michael Smith shone some light on the quiet
and unassuming explorers extraordinary achievements. No one made much of a fuss about
him locally, says the current landlord of the South Pole Inn. He was just one of the lads who
went away and then came home. His name lives on in South Georgias Crean Glacier and Mt
Crean in Victoria Land, Antarctica.
INFORMATION
An Caf Litertha.......................(see 26)
Dingle Bookshop............................1 C4
Dingle Cleaners..............................2 C4
Dingle Internet Caf......................3 D4
Olde Forge....................................4 C4
Post Office.....................................5 C3
Tourist Office.................................6 B4
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Brosnan's.......................................7 C5
Dingle Boatmen's Association......(see 6)
Dingle Marina Diving Centre..........8 A4
Dingle Marine & Leisure Centre.....9 A4
Dingle Music School.....................10 C4
Dingle Oceanworld......................11 A4
Dingle World of Leisure...............12 D4
Dseart.........................................13 C4
Mountain Man Outdoor Shop.....14 C4
Sciird........................................(see 22)
St Mary's Church.........................15 C4
Trinity Tree.................................. 16 C4
SLEEPING
Alpine Guesthouse.......................17 C5
h
Hig
ENTERTAINMENT
An Droichead Beag...................... 41 D4
Blue Zone.....................................42 C4
Hillgrove......................................43 D3
John Benny's..............................(see 34)
MacCarthy's..............................(see 31)
Phoenix Cinema...........................44 C4
C4
C4
D4
C4
C3
C3
D4
B4
B4
C4
D4
B4
C4
SHOPPING
An Gaileara Beag........................45 C3
Brian de Staic...............................46 A4
Brian de Staic...............................47 C4
Dingle Crystal............................(see 48)
Lisbeth Mulcahy...........................48 C4
N U Goldsmith.............................49 C3
The Woollen Store....................... 50 C4
TRANSPORT
Bus Stop.......................................51 C4
Foxy John's................................(see 40)
Kirrary........................................(see 22)
Ashmoun
t Ter
Rd
ha
The
DRINKING
Curran's.....................................(see 30)
Dick Mack's.................................39 C4
Foxy John's..................................40 C3
Hannie Agnes............................(see 39)
Benner's Hotel.............................18 C4
Brosnan's.....................................(see 7)
Captain's House...........................19 C4
Dingle Bay Hotel..........................20 B4
Goat Street Caf........................(see 31)
Grapevine Hostel.........................21 C4
Kirrary..........................................22 C4
Marina Lodge...............................23 B4
Russells........................................24 C4
Srid Eoin House.......................... 25 D4
EATING
An Caf Litertha........................ 26
Apple Tree................................... 27
Ashe's......................................... 28
Chart House................................29
Global Village Restaurant.............30
Goat Street Caf..........................31
Half Door.....................................32
Harrington's.................................33
John Benny's................................34
Lord Baker's.................................35
Old Smokehouse......................... 36
Out of the Blue............................37
SuperValu....................................38
200 m
0.1 miles
pe
lL
a
37
33
34 20
Green
23
Pier
Sp
St
To Connor Pass;
Cloghane (15km);
Tralee (38km)
32
25
St
2
29
12
Marina
en
Dingle
Harbour
To Pax House
(900m)
17
To N86; Ballintaggart
Hostel (1.6km); Dingle
Racetrack (1.6km);
Annascaul (11km);
Tralee (39km)
COUNTY KERRY
Rd
T he W
ood
8
il
St
Ma
Activities
Psychedelic fish glide through tanks re-creating environments such as Lake Malwai, the
River Congo and the piranha-filled Amazon.
11
46
DINGLE OCEANWORLD
.ie; Dingle Harbour; adult/child/family 11/6.50/30; h10am8.30pm Jul & Aug, to 6pm rest of year) is a lot of fun.
43
hn
Jo
Up
Ma per 30
in
45
St
40 Lo
w
49
er
5
M
ai
13
42 1
ard
28
n
ch 35
r
St 41
15
O a
18
L
39 27
21
48
3
47
16
36
La
e 19 26
10
t
ga
all
50
ke
M
y
4
D
he
St
44 T
Strand
14
24
38
22
51
La
COUNTY KERRY
OTHER SIGHTS
at
St
31
's
ey
Gr
Go
ole
Co
Sights
288 D I N G L E P E N I N S U L A D i n g l e
Walking Tours
Two-hour Dingle walking tours (%915 2476; Green
St; 8) depart from Dseart (see p286) at 11am,
Monday to Friday.
Sleeping
BUDGET
Eating
For self-catering, theres a big SuperValu supermarket in Holyground. The garage just
past the big roundabout on Mail Rd has a
shop and sandwich bar.
The waterfront is lined with eateries specialising in seafood and tourists, among them
the funky blue-and-yellow Out of the Blue
(%915 0811) and Apple Trees sister establishment Harringtons (%915 1985).
BUDGET
lonelyplanet.com
Old Smokehouse (%915 1061; Lower Main St; lunch 610, dinner 15-23; h6.30pm-10pm Apr-May & Sep-Oct,
12.30pm-10pm Jun-Aug) The food, like the dcor
D I N G L E P E N I N S U L A D i n g l e 289
Drinking
Dingle has over 50 pubs, many of them
mongrel affairs that double as shops. Two
wonderful examples of this on Main Street
are Foxy Johns (%915 1316) and Currans (%915
1110), which respectively sell hardware and
outdoor clothing. At night, you can sit behind the shop counters.
Dick Macks (%915 1960; Green St) Announced
by stars in the pavement bearing the names
of its celebrity customers from Robert
Mitchum to Julia Roberts, this lively pub
and leather shop sees impromptu sessions.
Hannie Agnes (%087-949 0832; Green St) Local
haunt thats known for its smooth Guinness
and, during the summer, trad sessions and
Irish coffee. It used to be the coffin-makers
shop; the coffins are reinstalled for the
Halloween party.
Entertainment
MacCarthys (%915 1205; www.maccacrthyspub.com;
Goat St) Popular bar containing one of Irelands smallest venues. There is music at the
weekends check the website .
John Bennys (% 915 1215; Strand St) Lively
trad, set dancing and signing are on offer
from 9.30pm Monday, Wednesday, Friday
and Saturday.
An Droichead Beag (Small Bridge Bar; %915 1723;
Lower Main St) Traditional music kicks off
at 9.30pm nightly at this raucous pub by
the bridge.
Blue Zone (%915 0303; Green St; h6pm-1am TueThu, 6pm-2am Fri & Sat, 6pm-12.30am Sun) Late-night
hangout with Coronoa, San Miguel and pizzas on the menu, and live music on Tuesday
and Thursday.
Hillgrove (%915 1131; Spa St) Theres a break
from traditional Dingle at nightclub Hillgrove, where chart sounds rule nightly
COUNTY KERRY
COUNTY KERRY
MIDRANGE
290 D I N G L E P E N I N S U L A N o r t h s i d e o f T h e Pe n i n s u l a
Shopping
The Woollen Store (%915 0692; Green St) Has a great
selection of hats, jumpers, hooded tops and
shawls, some with fleece linings to prevent
that wool itch.
Lisbeth Mulcahy (%915 1688; Green St) Beautiful
scarves, rugs and wall hangings are created on
a 150-year-old loom by this long-established
designer. Also sold here are ceramics by her
husband, who has a workshop at Louis Mulcahy Pottery (p295), west of Dingle.
An Gaileara Beag (%915 2976; Main St) A showcase for the work of the West Kerry Craft
Guild, selling ceramics, paintings, wood carvings, photography, batik, jewellery, stained
glass and much more.
N U Goldsmith (%915 2217; Green St) Original
jewellery by Niamh Utsch is on display at this
stylish little gallery. Individual pieces start at
40 and keep rising.
Brian de Staic (%915 1298; www.briandestaic.com;
Green St) This local jewellery designers exquisite
modern Celtic work includes symbols, crosses
and standing stones. The company also has a
shop on the Wood.
Dingle Crystal (%915 1550; Green St) Biker-cummaster craftsman Sen Daly worked at Waterford Crystal for 15 years before setting up here
10 years ago. There are demonstrations on the
premises and tours of the nearby workshop.
Bus ireann (%712 3566) buses stop outside the
car park behind the supermarket. There are
four buses daily Monday to Saturday from
Dingle to Tralee, and three on Sunday (9).
Between Monday and Saturday, June to September, four daily services link Dingle and
Killarney (11) via Inch. Otherwise, change
in Tralee.
There are eight buses a week to Dunquin
and Ballydavid, on Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and Friday.
Getting Around
Dingle is easily navigated on foot. For a taxi
call Dingle Co-op Cabs (%087-2225777), which can
also give private tours of the peninsula.
Castlegregory
%066 / pop 940
D I N G L E P E N I N S U L A N o r t h s i d e o f T h e Pe n i n s u l a 291
Cloghane
%066 / pop 275
COUNTY KERRY
COUNTY KERRY
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292 D I N G L E P E N I N S U L A C o n n o r Pa s s
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WALK: MT BRANDON
At 951m, Mt Brandon (Cnoc Bhrannain) is Irelands 8th highest peak. Its made up of a beautiful series of high summits that lie along the edge of a spectacular series of east-facing cliffs
and steep ridges above a rocky lake-filled valley. An ascent of the mountain is a serious all-day
trip. You should be well-equipped with weatherproof clothing and mountain boots, even in
summer. Above all you should be experienced in the use of a map (Ordnance Survey Map No
70) and compass because thick mist can develop quickly, as can wind and rain. Allow at least
six to seven hours return.
A popular route from the west is the Saints Rd, which starts at Kilmalkedar Church (p296). To
avoid 274m-high Reenconnell, start the trail at the large Mt Brandon car park, signposted from
the DingleFeohanagh road. Its a straightforward 6km slog there and back, well marked with
14 crosses interspersed with white markers, and takes five hours return.
The classic way up Mt Brandon starts from Faha (OS reference 493120) above Cloghane. (You
can drive there. If you walk, the steep 2km adds a couple of hours onto the six-hour there-andback climb from Faha.) To reach Faha, take the turn left (signposted Cnoc Bhranainn), about
200m northeast of Cloghane school, and follow the narrow lane to a T-junction. Turn left again
and carry on until you reach the Faha road-end parking area. From here, its a fairly tough 7km
to the summit and back.
Walk left up the track above the car park and follow the obvious path past a grotto onto the
open mountain. The rocky path is very clear. Occasional guide poles mark the way along a rising
grassy ridge, with a magnificent line of cliffs and ridges ahead. The path contours around rocky
slopes before descending into the glaciated wilderness at the valley head, from where it winds
between great boulders and slabs. Yellow arrows on the rocks point the way.
When the back wall is reached, the path zigzags very steeply to the rim of the great cliffs.
Turn left at the top and head for the summit of Mt Brandon, marked by a trigonometry point or
pillar, a wooden cross, and the remains of Teampaillin Breanainn (St Brendans Oratory). The views
in clear weather from the summit are reverie-inducing, but be alert to the sudden edge of the
cliffs. You can continue along the cliffs edge to the subsidiary summits and Brandon Peak, 2km
south, but this will add a couple of hours. Retracing your steps requires care and concentration
on the initial steep zigzags. The rest of the way back to Faha is freewheeling.
Mt Caherconree
About 11km west of Castlemaine is the turnoff for Mt Caherconree (825m), signposted as
the scenic drive to Camp. About 4km along
this road coming from the south is an Iron
Age promontory fort that may have been
built by Cror MacDine, king of Munster.
Whichever direction you come from, there
are stunning views of Caherconrees sweeping
slopes and the surrounding countryside. The
narrow, exposed road demands concentration
from drivers, so pull over if you want to take
in the views.
Phoenix Vegetarian Restaurant & Accommodation (%976 6284; www.thephoenixorganic.com; Shanahill
East, Castlemaine; camp sites incl shower 14, r with/without
bathroom 28/35, gypsy caravan 30; lunch 4-10, dinner
10-20; hEaster-Oct; p) is a centre for all things
creative and quirky, announced by a colourful mural overlooking the R561. The danceteaching owner Lorna runs a dance centre
here and theres a film club. The restaurant,
open all year, specialises in vegetarian dishes
using produce from the organic gardens. The
rooms are delightful; sadly, the gypsy caravans
and outside toilets were in an appalling state
when we visited, though there were plans to
do them up.
Inch
Inchs 5km-long sand spit was a location for
both the leprechaunish Ryans Daughter and
more muscular Playboy of the Western World.
Sarah Miles, love interest in the former film,
described her stay here as brief but bonny.
The dunes are certainly bonny, scattered with the remains of shipwrecks and
Stone Age and Iron Age settlements. The
west-facing beach is also a hot surfing spot;
waves average 1m to 3m. Westcoast Surf School
(%086-306 7053) offers lessons and five-day
kids camps.
Cars are allowed on the beach, but be
careful because vehicles regularly get stuck
in the wet sand.
Sammys (%915 8118), at the entrance to
the beach, is the nerve centre of the vil-
D I N G L E P E N I N S U L A W e s t o f D i n g l e 293
WEST OF DINGLE
%066
COUNTY KERRY
COUNTY KERRY
CONNOR PASS
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294 D I N G L E P E N I N S U L A W e s t o f D i n g l e
Ventry
pop 410
a long, white hall ending in a wall-to-ceiling window overlooking the islands. Great
Blaskets rich community of storytellers and
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D I N G L E P E N I N S U L A W e s t o f D i n g l e 295
Blasket Islands
The Blasket Islands (Na Blascaoda), 5km
out into the Atlantic, are the most westerly
islands in Europe. At 6km by 1.2km, Great
Blasket (An Blascaod Mr) is the largest and
most visited, and is mountainous enough for
strenuous walks, including a good one detailed in Kevin Corcorans Kerry Walks. All
of the Blaskets were inhabited at one time
or another; there is evidence of Great Blasket being inhabited during the Iron Age and
early Christian times. The last islanders left
for the mainland in 1953 after the government and the remaining inhabitants agreed
that it was no longer feasible to live in such
remote and harsh conditions.
You could camp on the islands, but there
are no facilities. Theres accommodation
in Dunquin.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Ballyferriter
Continuing north from Dunquin, you pass
the tiny settlement of Clogher, where the
road turns inland to reach the Ballyferriter (Baile an Fheirtearaigh). Its named
after Piaras Ferriter, a poet and soldier who
emerged as a local leader in the 1641 rebellion and was the last Kerry commander to
submit to Cromwells army.
One of the most interesting potteries on
the peninsula, Louis Mulcahy Pottery (%915 6229;
Clogher; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5.30pm Sat, 11am5.30pm Sun Nov-Easter) has all sorts of pots, jugs,
Ferriters Cove.
About 2.5km northeast of Ferriters Cove
is Dn an ir Fort (Fort of Gold), the scene
of a hideous massacre during the 1580 Irish
rebellion against English rule. The fort was
held by Sir James Fitzmaurice, who commanded an international brigade of Italians,
Spaniards and Basques. On 7 November,
English troops under Lord Grey attacked
the fort; within three days the defenders
surrendered. Then putt I in certeyn bandes
who streight fell to execution. There were
600 slayne, said the poet Edmund Spenser,
who was secretary to Lord Grey and patently
not in a lyrical mood at the time.
COUNTY KERRY
COUNTY KERRY
Dunquin
lonelyplanet.com
Gallarus Oratory
This dry-stone oratory is quite a sight, standing in its lonely spot beneath the brown hills
as it has done for some 1200 years. It has
withstood the elements perfectly, apart from
a slight sagging in the roof. Traces of mortar
suggest that the interior and exterior walls may
have been plastered. Shaped like an upturned
boat, it has a doorway on the western side and
a round-headed window on the eastern side.
Inside the doorway are two projecting stones
with holes that once supported the door.
The oratory is signposted off the R559,
about 2km further on from the Riasc Monastic Settlement turn-off. The communityrun visitor centre (%915 5333; adult/child 3/2.50;
h9am-8pm) charges for access to the oratory,
car park and a 15-minute audio-visual display.
It has a shop and seasonal caf.
You can access the oratory for free by continuing uphill to a small parking area on the
left. However, in the summer its worth noting
that this parking space is limited and congestion caused by cars in the lane is a problem.
Europes most westerly camp site, Oratory
House Camping (Campal Teach An Aragail; %915 5143;
www.dingleactivities.com; Gallarus; camp sites from 17;
hApr-Sep), is 300m from the Gallarus Oratory.
COUNTY KERRY
lonelyplanet.com
Kilmalkedar Church
This 12th-century church was once part of a
complex of religious buildings. The characteristic Romanesque doorway has a tympanum
with a head in the centre. There is an Ogham
stone, pierced by a hole, in the grounds, as well
as a very early sundial. Nearby is a restored
two-storey building known as St Brendans House,
which is believed to have been the residence of
the medieval clergy. The track to the right of
this is the Saints Rd, the traditional approach to
Mt Brandon (p292). Parking is limited.
From Gallarus Oratory, the R559 goes
north to the little village of Murreagh. The
church is about 2km east of the village.
Following the R559 southeast for 8km from
Kilmalkedar takes you back to Dingle.
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