Working Wartlike

Affordable Clothes

HmtWbrkhrlbu!

How to more than triple your wardrobe with

two-color coordinated dressing

"Works on any

level of

budget and

sophistication,

Janet Willach

or at any level of
dressiness."

Ms.

magazine

Image

Profile

Affordable Clothes That Wbrk For You!

Working
Wardrobe
Janet Wallach
Illustrations

by

Qiristine Turner

^^
o

WWNER BOOKS

A Warner Communications Company

To my husband John

Warner Books Edition

Copyright

1981

by Acropolis Books

Ltd.

All rights reserved.

This Warner Books Edition is published by arrangement

with Acropolis Books Ltd., Colortone Building, 2400 17th
St., N.W., Washington, D.C. 20009.

Warner Books,

Inc.,

New York, N.Y.

666 Fifth Avenue

10103

N.Y. 10019.

^9 A Warner Communications Company

Printed in the United States of America
First

Warner Books

Printing:

September 1982

10 9 8 7 6 5 4
Artists:

Allyson Everngam and Barbara

T. Sites

Photos by David Neely, Photo Concepts

Illustrations

by Christine Turner

Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data

Wallach, Janet, 1942Working wardrobe.

Reprint. Originally published: Washington, D.C:
Acropolis Books, c. 1981.
Includes index.
I. Title.
1, Clothing and dress.
646'.34
82-7048
1982
TT507.W217

ISBN 0-446-38361-9
ISBN 0-446-38362-7

AACR2

(U.S.A.)

(Canada)

ATTENTION: SCHOOLS AND CORPORATIONS

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Working Wardrobe

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

JYly gratitude to the

enthusiasm contributed so

My

much

to the

appreciation and thanks to Kathleen

understanding, guidance, and good

Turner for

their artistic direction

many

making

people whose interest and

of this

book.

Hughes and Laurie Tag for their

to Robert Hickey and Chris

humor and

and perceptive

interpretation.

My

special thanks to

My

appreciation for the time and valuable contributions of: Lenore Benson,

Susan Samuels for her encouragement and support.

Joan Carl, Barbara Dickstein,

Mary DiGiacomo,

Millicent Fenwick,

Donna

Karan, Nancy Kissinger, Hanne Merriman, Nancy Reagan, Dot Roberts, Diane

Sawyer, Gail Serfaty, Linda Silverman, and Trisha Wilson.

My

love and gratitude to John Wallach for his belief and support.

CONTENTS
8

Foreword

Getting it Together:
The Capsule Concept
Is A Working Wardrobe?
The Capsule Concept
Putting The Pieces Together
Color Profile Quiz
Choosing Your Capsule
The Dress Option
What About A Coat?
The Total You
Building On The Capsule Concept
Real People: Kaaren Gray
Hanne Merriman

What

2L

The

26
27
29
37
41
42
45
50
52
54
55
58

60

Essential Accessories
68
69

Shoes

Handbags
Scarves

71

Belts

80
80

Jewelry

The

Basic Accessory

Real People:

Wardrobe

Mona Shaker
Dot Roberts

81

86
89

The Image of Success

93

What Your Clothing Says About You

94
98
106
107

Three Decades of Fashion

The Capsule Approach To Successful Dressing
Image Profile Quiz
Real People: Nancy Reagan

108
112

Maureen Kindel

The Evening Capsule

The Evening Look With Separates
The Dress-And-Jacket Look
Accessorizing Your Evening Capsule

117
,

Real People: Lenore Benson

Susan Samuels

The Travel Capsule

Think Before You Pack
Flexibility

Is

The Key

Designing Your
How To Pack

Own Travel Capsule

Real People: Trisha Wilson

Diane Sawyer

117
124
124
131
134

139
140
140
144
151
157
160

Shop Talk
Look Before You Buy
Making Your Selections
The Perfect Fit
The Best Time To Buy
Real People: Mary DiGiacomo
GailSerfaty

Shopping With A Plan

Budgeting A Capsule

163
164
1 70
173
74
175
176
178
179
1

Finding

Planning Your Capsule

187

Index

194

Your Individual Style

185

FOREWORD

W.

orking Wardrobe will help any

front of her closet

and says

"I

woman who stands in

haven't a thing to wear."

frustrating than a closet full of clothes, yet nothing that

else?

Whether

for

work or

for play, office time, travel time or

woman can save time and money if she's bought her

design. And that's what Working Wardrobe is all about.

It's

week

way
to

to organize

What can be more

works with anything

your clothing

to

make

it

work

clothes

for you,

week, year to year. The key to Working Wardrobe

Concept, a

way

to coordinate a

basis of color, fabric

number of

any time,

by plan and

day
is

to day,

the Capsule

separate clothing components on the

and shape. Working Wardrobe

faces the

problem of

how

make sense of your wardrobe, how to use it for work, and how to make it
work for you. Too many women buy clothing on impulse or out of sheer
frustration; they return home with too many pieces that don't work together.
Working Wardrobe teaches you how to make sense of your wardrobe and buy
to

Working Wardrobe

clothing that

fits

together like the interchangeable pieces of an interlock-

ing puzzle.

In order to

theory,

show you how

working wardrobe

each explanatory chapter

women who

are

successful

not

is

used in practice as well as in

followed by profiles of a number of

is

only in

their

careers

but

in

the

way

they put themselves together. Their creativity and initiative are evident in their
dress as well as in their

work. All of them see

their personal style. All of

them

relate the

way

their clothing as a reflection of

discusses

how

she makes her wardrobe

work

work
women. Each woman

they dress to the kind of

they do. All of them see themselves as distinctly feminine

for her.

Working Wardrobe goes beyond fad and fashion and shows you how

good return on your clothing investment.

and formulates

amounts

it

of time,

It

takes the idea of

into the Capsule Concept, a simple design that saves endless

money and

anxiety.

The Capsule Concept provides a

concise approach to dressing. With a working wardrobe

any

situation

to get a

wardrobe building

clear,

you can be ready

and be assured you're dressed for the occasion!

for

Black/Red Working Capsule

12 Pieces of clothing in 2 colors = 48 different looks

Colors

Black

A.

Jacket

B.

Jacket

Red

Accents

Will

work with

All skirts

and dress

Skirt

D.

Skirt

E.

Skirt

F.

Blouse

Small geometric
print. Dirndl,

Red/yellow/black

Small geometric
print shirt

a
R

Red/yellow/black

Blouse
White bow neck

Blouse

L_

Blouse

l_

Sweater

Detachable

bow

Sweater

Dress
Belted trenchcoat

with button-out

Coat

L. Dress

Skirt Small geometric

print dirndl

Red/Black/Yellow
Blouse
Small geometric

Jacket

B.
^

Red/Black/Yellow

blazer

Black/White

_*

wool
Red

Wool

sleeve

shirtdress

crepe cardigan

Black

Skirt

dirndl

Black/White

Crepe

Long

Skirt

Tweed

print shirt

Jacket

Dress

Tweed

shirt

detachable

Yellow

with

bow

D.

Wool

crepe pleated

Black

Blouse

Crepe
White

bow

neck

Black /Red Working Capsule

Your Capsule

will give

you enough looks

to

change your

outfit

everyday for more than 2 months.

MONDAY

TUESDAY

WEDNESDAY

THURSDAY
A.
E.
F.

E.
F.

D.
J.

K.

Capsule Combinations
A

Capsule is limited to two principle colors, each of which can stand on

Here are some suggestions of color combinations that you might use.

own

or mix with the other.

Navy /Wine

Blue

Navy /Yellow

Blue Gray/Yellow

Gray/Wine

Blue Gray/RoyaJ Blue

Black/Purple

Navy /Red

Purple Beige

its

Blue

Gray/Red

Blue Gray/Pink

Greige/ Ivory

Greige/Rust

Navy/Plu

Black /Beige

Purple /Red

Navy /Pink

Steel

Gray /Eggplant

Steel

Gray/Khaki

Aqua Peach

m
Olive Beige

Olive Purple

Aqua Yellow

Burgundy /Winter White

Gray/Brown Working Capsule

12 Pieces of clothing in 2 colors

Brown

Gray

A.

Jacket

B.

Jacket

= 48

different looks

Accents

Will

work with

All skirts

and dress

All skirts

and dress

All skirts

and dress

Jacket
All lackets. blouses,

D.

and sweaters

Gray

Skirt
All lackets, blouses,

Paisley print

E.

and sweaters Paisley

Dirndl skirl

Skirt

Gray brown

to

make

dress

All jackets, blousi

Tweed, Plealed

Skirt

Paisley print.
shirt

Detachable

bow

Blouse

Blouse

L_

Blouse

l_

Blouse

IC

Sweater

Dress

Mhfik
J.

K.

Blouse

Coat
L. Dress

Sweate

-^

Jacket

Tweed

>t

Jacket
knit

Tweed knit cardigan

Gray /Brown

cardigan

Gray/Brown
Skirt Challis paisley
print dirndl

Gray/Brown

Skirt

F.

Blouse Challis paisley

print shirt with
detachable

Blouse

bow

Gray /Brown

Tweed knit pleated

Gray/Brown

Silk shirt

J.

Gold

Blouse
Silk blouse

I.

with

Sweater
Cardigan
Rust

bow

Beige

Dress

L.

Silk shirt dress

Brown

Navy /Wine Working Capsule

12 Pieces of clothing in 2 colors

= 72

different looks

A.

Jacket

Mohair cardigan
Wine

A.

Pants

F.

Gabardine trousers

Navy

D.

Blouse

Skirt
Silk crepe dirndl

Skirt
Silk crepe tattersall
print dirndl

Navy/Wine

Blouse
Silk crepe tattersall

Silk shirt

Navy

Jacket

Mohair cardigan
Wine

print shirt

Navy /Wine

Wine

G.
K.

Jacket

Corduroy cardigan

Navy

Blouse
Silk crepe shirt

Skirt

Wine

Navy

Sweater
Cardigan

Sweater
Pullover
Ivory

Navy

Corduroy dirndl

Ivory /Tan Working Capsule

12 Pieces of clothing in 2 colors

= 49

different looks

Jacket

Tweed

blazer

Forest

Skirt

D.

"

Tweed

Forest

Blouse
Silk

bow

Forest

Jacket

Ginger

Silk

Ginger

Wool

Jacket

Suede cardigan
Ginger

blazer

Forest

Skirt
Silk Paisley print

Pants

paisley print
silk pleated
plea
Forest /Ginger

Blouse

neck

Jacket

Tweed

Hopsack blazer

trousers

pleated
Forest /Ginger

Forest

Silk

Silk paisley print

Ivory

Forest/Ginger

Blouse

Blouse

J.

Forest Green/Ginger
12 Pieces of clothing in 2 colors

Ginger

A.

Jacket

B.

Jacket

c.

Jacket

D.

Skirt

E.

Skirt

F.

Skirt

G.

Pants

H.

Blouse

I.

Blouse

J.

Blouse

K.

Blouse

Sweater

=64

Working Capsule

different looks

Will

work with

All skirts

and pants

Alt skirts

and pants

Will makesuil with

ginger skirt

All skirts

and pants

All tops

Will

suit

make

with tweed

All tops

Will

make

dress with paisley

shirt

Raw

Coat

silk shirt

All skirts

and pants

All skirts

and

|^_

gj Q

J. Bio.

**

All skirts

and pants

All skirts

and pants

LJ V

G.

Panls

Chapter

GETTING IT
TOGETHER:
The Capsule Concept

1-^very time you look

in

and find nothing, you know your wardrobe

an

take

outfit,

it

home, and

something's not working.

skirts that

office

If

find

closet for

something

to

wear

working. Every time you buy

you haven't

the right shoes or handbag,

you have

jackets that

work with only one

skirt,

only look right with one top, clothes that only seem to work for the

and never look

for you.

If

your
isn't

you stand

right going out to dinner,

in front of a

packed

your wardrobe

closet every

isn't

morning and

working

can't figure

out what to wear, you don't have a working wardrobe.

have spent almost twenty years

Avenue

in the

fashion industry,

first

on Seventh

as a designer of sportswear, then as a fashion coordinator,

and most

recently as Fashion Merchandising Director of Garfinckel's a major Washington,

D.C. store with an international reputation

Whether
career

is

in a store

the presentation of clothing

tion, the pieces are

for

quality

or in a showroom, one technique

by groups. When

and good

taste.

learned early in

my

a designer styles a collec-

coordinated by color and fabric, so that they work together.

Working Wardrobe

27

They might include

to retailers,

it

is

shown

in the

made.

all

it

may

What

To buy

if

that

When

is

presented
in these

the merchandise arrives in the

all

of the pieces in a group

buy

a skirt

group were her spring wardrobe? What

Stores offer

many ways

to help their

and

shirt,

and perhaps a

would seem outrageous. Or would

wardrobe could work together? Wouldn't

in her

these separates,

the merchandise

be displayed on a chrome fixture that allows the customer to see

of the possibilities. She, in turn, might

jacket.

From

shirts.

When

same way. Professional buyers think

terms as well, often buying a whole group.

store,

and

several skirts, jackets

several possible combinations can be

if,

that

it?

in fact, all of the pieces

make

her

life

simpler?

customers visualize the new looks

fashion with ads, promotions, trunk shows, personal appearances

by

in

designers,

and, of course, fashion shows. While big fashion shows cost a fortune to do,

more and more women have

less

productions of fantasy clothes.

and

less

time to spend looking at outrageous

What customers do want

is

to be educated; they

how to get the most clothing for the least amount of money. They
want to know how to put these clothes together in ways that make sense for the
office as well as for after-office hours. They want to know how to get maximum mileage out of their wardrobes, what to buy, how to accessorize, and
how to update last year's looks.
want

to learn

WHAT

IS

A WORKING WARDROBE?

Several years ago

the

you.

It

show seminar based on the concept of

that's right for work and works for
your many points of view. After all, you may be an

introduced a fashion

Working Wardrobe,
should adapt to

that

is,

wardrobe

executive, in addition to being a mother, a corporate wife, a fund raiser, an

artist,

a theater goer

these jobs.

and a

At the same

traveler.

time,

if

You need

you're doing

all

on time. While your mother may have thought

the kind of clothes that will

of this,
it

do

you are probably short

entertaining to go shopping,

Getting

28

Together

it

delight, you
You need them, you buy
them, and that's that. The question is, with a limited amount of time and
money to spend on clothing, how do you shop fast, save money and always

and meeting "the

girls" at a

department store was an afternoon's

simply don't have the extra hours to devote to clothes.

look good? The answer

may

robe

take

lies in

some time

the

working wardrobe. Organizing your wardonce the

in the beginning, but

initial

plans are

time.

They earn more

set, it's

simple to put the project in motion.

Fifty percent of all adult

money than women

and

less as

filler

American women work

in

own. They spend

their jobs

not actually sitting at their desks.

world, they want everyone to

far longer than forty

know

in rising

developing a successful business or profes-

sion of their

way

as a career

between school and marriage. They are interested

within the corporate structure or

if

full

They approach work more

ever have before.

hours a week working at

When

they're out there in the

working women, making

they're

their

own

in life.

The Working Wardrobe

applies to

any

is

taste level

geared to these

women,

to you.

It is

a concept that

and any purse. Whether you wear clothes by Anne

Klein or Evan Picone, high-styled European fashions or basic ail-American

Preppy, your wardrobe should

may

prefer Saks, or

favorite

book

little

that

work

for you.

on the other hand a

dressmaker

may

be your

You might shop

skirt here, a

style. It just

you rethink your whole approach

whatever you buy, your wardrobe should

may

at Sears

be after reading

to shopping. But

reflect a

or you

blouse there, and a

this

however and

look of quality.

Faced with inflation and an ever shrinking dollar, the best clothing buys are
those that last the longest. This
in fashion,

pean

but

it

makes

women who wear

may

not always tally with what's the

a wise investment.
classic clothing.

Think

of

They pay

all

latest

those elegant Euro-

little

attention to fads

Working Wardrobe

29

and hemlines, and

always

strikes

pret-a-porter.

all

over the world,

on the

street or in a fine restaurant.

strolls

down

Faubourg

the

groomed and dressed

in a

St.

She

is

at ease

notice the well-dressed French

And what

does

Honore or dines

simple

of her clothes are unimportant.

loger to get the latest fashion message

all

from the newest French designers. Then

quality.

outfits a year. This contrast

from

journalists

new

only one or two

collect

me when I'm in Paris seeing the twice-yearly shows for the

There am racing around town with thousands of buyers and

silk dress

at

this

woman

look

Maxim's? She

woman
who

like

very well

is

or well-cut suit. Her age and the age

What comes

across

is

a feeling of elegance, of

with herself and comfortable with her clothes. She

may

be amused by the designers, but she knows what's right for her and she stays
with

it.

As American women

learn to collect their clothes, to

buy

quantity, to look for the kinds of fashions that will remain in

we

long time,

long practiced

too are more at ease with ourselves.

this idea,

always expecting

we

are forced

time,

we

to

As

to last for years.

our

suit

the price of

to take this

some

and not

taste for a

they could afford, and

women's

same approach.

style of living as well as to

are fortunate to have

good

Many American men have

always buying the best blue

more and more

accommodation
same

it

quality

clothing climbs,
It

is

the easiest

our pocketbooks. At the

of the best designers in the world,

plus the ability to produce the greatest fashion at the lowest price. There

tremendous selection
designers.

point.

in fabric, color,

and

There are great looking clothes

A good

working wardrobe

is

styling offered
at

every price point.

available to

is

by young American

anyone who

And

that's

my

cares.

THE CAPSULE CONCEPT

As in any other area, those who are successful often have the same formula.
The secret of many well dressed women is the Capsule Concept. Easy to digest,
clear

and concise,

it

works day and

night.

What

is

the Capsule Concept?

It is

Getting

30

It

Together

simply the principle of a small group of clothing, coordinated in color, fabric

and shape, with

about

all

earlier, the

interchangeable parts. Like the coordinated groups

Capsule

is

an extended

by you and for you. The Capsule can

twenty pieces. The purpose of

it is

set of

consist of as

you

to give

The Capsule can be worked around

require.

mix and match

as

as five or as

little

much

spoke

pieces, created

flexibility as

many

as

your needs

a daytime wardrobe, an evening

wardrobe, a work to dinner theme, a work -play idea, a travel package, or

whatever your needs

requirements.
pieces that

The

may

be.

make your

What makes up

picture puzzle a perfect

a Capsule? Everything

and

jackets, blouses, sweaters,

colors, each of

not just one

first

dresses.

which can stand on

the individual pieces

The

skirt,

designed by you to

It is

basic structure of the Capsule

must

all

its

work

It

may be

some

that

your plan

you want

work

months ago I was

retiring

to

into

you need including

skirts,

Capsule

two

is

new

limited to

pants,

principal

The shapes

of

worn with

this

approach

your needs.

puzzle out, but

this in several

more than

likely,

it

It

requires

sure pays in

shopping sessions

you already own

a guest lecturer to a

group of

women whose husbands

from the military and entering the business world. Both the

also included a session

interests,

interview,

is

to figure out

work

in a course in career strategy.

incorporated interview techniques, psychological

had two

and your

your Capsule.

husbands and wives were enrolled

It

life

fit.

or mix with the other.

you're starting out fresh. But

pieces that will

Several

were

if

your

but you choose the

together so that a jacket can be

time and patience in the beginning to

the end.

own

fit

set,

but with two or three skirts and perhaps with a dress as well.

step in developing

particularly

is

tests

on fashion, given separately

one as wives

who

The course

and motivational
to each sex.

might accompany

their

ideas.

The women

husbands on an

and the second as job hunters themselves faced with the prospect

position or even the start of a

wardrobe which could

suit either role.

new

career.

We

of

developed a Capsule

Working Wardrobe

The

31

clothing needs were broken

down

into three areas: the formal first

and

second interview, the cocktail /dinner situation, and the casual meetings which

Many

might take place.

would happen

of these interviews

around the country, so that a movable fashion

feast

was

in different cities

required.

It

couldn't

What

be too cumbersome, or too expensive, keeping military salaries in mind.

was needed were two

suits

with matching jackets and skirts (one for the

interview and one for the second), a dress that could be

well as for dinner,

and one casual

worn during

the

first

day as

could be used for anything from

outfit that

touring a factory to house hunting. This Capsule allowed the

women

great

they never had to wear the same outfit twice in the course of

flexibility so that

an interview period.
Before deciding on any particular items for the Capsule,
color scheme.
the

first

Dark

solid colors such as black,

we had

to

choose a

navy or gray were suggested

for

interview suit. Lighter colors such as wine, taupe or camel, or a subtle

pattern in a tweed or herringbone, could be introduced for the second inter-

view.

By using

a solid navy

with both
ones.

a solid color that coordinated with the pattern, as for example,

first,

skirts.

and a navy /wine check second, both jackets could be worn

This gave the wearer two matching suits as well as two mixed

The matching

suits

were perfect for the interviews, while the mixed looks

were great for any casual outings. To round out the Capsule, we chose a
shirtdress in

wine that would look good with either jacket over

for the office covered up,

and great without

it. It

was

silk

perfect

the jacket after five.

the Capsule the women were set for a whole round of interviews, both on
own or with their husbands. Many came back giving glowing testimonials
of how well their Capsule had worked. They were pleased not only with the
flexibility of the Capsule, but many felt that it was their assurance in their

With
their

clothing that

had helped them

get their jobs.

They

also

knew

they could use this

Capsule as the basis of their on-the-job wardrobe once they started to work.

32

Getting

Many
gets,

other

women

It

Together

helped have had similar kinds of problems; small bud-

I've

not a lot of time for shopping, and a need for clothes that are attractive

and multifunctional. By analyzing

their

needs and their wardrobes,

we were

able to develop personalized Capsules.

THE PROBLEM
Roz A. had been

a secretary for

two years and wanted

She realized that the look she projected was not

how

but she wasn't sure just

robe was composed of bits and pieces

left

wanted a quality look. Her ward-

over from college augmented by her

roommate's clothes which she often borrowed.

Roz explained. "But

things, like her slim skirts

Now

type in college.

career.

she wanted to dress. Although her budget and

salary didn't warrant expensive clothes, she

look,"

advance her

to

right for the executive suite,

am

finding that

and oxford

I'd like to

"I

don't really have

like

shirts. It's crisp

my own

my

roommate's tailored

and

fresh.

was

a hippie

have a cleaner look."

THE SOLUTION
What Roz

did have were

the other, a wine pleated

gan sweater, a
pieces,

we

gift

trousers to

work with

also

the blazer.

consist of five blouses,

oxford pink

had a navy shaker

First,

a suit with the gray skirt.

navy and gray and

flannel,

and

stitch cardi-

we found

Then we added a tweed

an ivory

silk

a gray flannel

We also found a pair of gray

a matching tweed skirt.

shirt, a striped shirt in

The

blazer in wine with

rest of

her Capsule

bow blouse, an oxford blue shirt, an

white/navy/wine and a paisley print

in

new additions to her Capsule, which she bought over a period

two months, came to $310. The twelve pieces gave her 60 different looks.

wine/gray. The
of

one a slim charcoal gray

from her brother, which she loved. Working around these

would make

would

skirts,

wool crepe. She

created a Capsule of gray and wine.

blazer that

flecks of

two good

Gray /Wine Capsule

Gray

A.

Jacket

B.

Jacket

Will

work with

All skirls

Will

and pants

make

tweed

suit

with

skirt

Skirt
All rackets, blouses

D.

Skirt

E.

Skirt
All jackets, blouses

Pants

Blouse

H.

Blouse

I.

Blouse

J.

Blouse

K.

Blouse

Sweater

Paisley shirt.

Accessories

Shoes

Wine/gray

34

Getting

To

Roz chose pumps

accessorize her Capsule,

shoulder bag, and three scarves, one a wine

silk

in

this

Together

gray and wine, a wine

oblong, one a yellow oblong,

and one a paisley square which could be made into a

pocket handkerchief. With

It

bow

tie,

an ascot or a

Capsule, Roz had a working wardrobe that was

crisply tailored to her needs.

THE PROBLEM
had been working

Elaine G.

and her husband

all

many years, but with her career, her children

much of her time, she hadn't really concentrated

for

claiming

on her own appearance. She bought her clothes on impulse, often while shop-

home

ping for her children, and what she brought

anything
for

else she

promotion several times, and

at herself.

"My wardrobe

no relationship

money

to

usually didn't

owned. Although she did her work

is

realized that she

well, she

had better take a good look

simply an accumulation of isolated items that have

to each other," she complained. "I don't

go out and buy

work with

was passed over

all

new

clothes, but

have the time or the

don't feel right in

what

have."

THE SOLUTION
Elaine did have quite a lot of things, but she wasn't getting mileage out of her
clothes.

She had a very well made camel wool

in charcoal gray.

owned were

She also had a

light

suit,

gray tweed

and another

Among

skirt.

attractive suit

the blouses she

a camel and gray small floral print tunic, a white crepe blouse

which her daughter had borrowed and never returned, and an aqua

Some of the
we rejected,
in

other items she had were poorly

made and

in

shoddy

silk blouse.

fabrics.

These

but decided to keep the ones mentioned above, creating a Capsule

camel and gray.

When

with either of the gray

asked Elaine

skirts,

she

was

if

she had ever

worn her camel

jacket

surprised and answered no. She

never thought to separate the parts of her

suits.

Since they were

made by

had
the

Camel/Gray Capsule
Camel

A.

Jacket

B.

Jacket

Gray

Will

work with

All skirls

Will

and

make

dr(

suil

Skirt

D.

Skirt

Skirt

Blouse

G.

Blouse

H.

Blouse

Blouse

J.

Blouse

K.

Sweater

Dress

Accessories

Shoes

All blouses

and

dr<

Getting

36

same manufacturer,

in similar fabrics, they

Elaine suddenly discovered she had

worked very

many more

It

Together

well together,

and

looks available than she had

ever realized. She also tried tucking in her tunic blouse to wear with her skirts,
giving a

much

neater look. Again, this

was something she had never

tried

back her ivory blouse from her daughter was not as difficult
as she had thought, and it gave her a versatile top. She did need some more
before. Claiming

blouses, so

we added

a beige crepe shirt, a striped shirt in white/camel/gray,

and used her aqua crepe blouse. For accents, we added a rust cardigan sweater
and one dress, a camel wool shirt dress. Taking one full Saturday for herself,
Elaine enjoyed completing her new Capsule. For just $230 she built a wardrobe
of forty-nine different outfits.

She already had tan leather pumps, and we added a pair of tan suede pumps.
Instead of her beat-up oversized black shoulder bag, we brought in a tan clutch
purse and a tan attache case,
she used to carry papers.

"and

work

no longer have
for

me."

much more

"I finally feel

to struggle with

attractive than the manilla envelopes

comfortable in

my clothes,"

what goes with what.

All of

Elaine said,

my

clothes

Working Wardrobe

37

PUTTING THE PIECES TOGETHER

Once you

are working, of course,

Assuming

that

by many

you spend most

of the

of

you need

your time

in

same people every day. You

good five-day working wardrobe.

an

office,

look each day for them as well as for yourself. For

working wardrobe Capsule

skirts

we'll

and blouses, and

be creating four

(It

be surrounded

two jackets,

may be

we'll discuss that later on.)

suits, three

will

this flexibility, the

consists of twelve pieces

four blouses, two sweaters, and one dress.

you

probably want to change your

will

that

you

minimum

three skirts,

prefer dresses to

Working with

the separates,

dress-and-jacket looks, and several skirt-and-

sweater combinations. Adding in skirts and blouses plus the dress on

there are

more than enough looks here

months without repeating

the

at least forty different outfits.

independent merit so that

same

The important point

can stand on

it

and shapes must work together

you

will

its

The

in the best clothing

you can

afford.

and the

pay

Using natural

will all

off.

is

own. Of course,

is

why

it is

such as

wools, will not only reflect your investment dollars in the

will

make

the colors, fabrics

one Capsule

is all

important to invest

quality of the fabrics, the

fibers,

own,

must have

that each item

for a cohesive Capsule. But

need for your working wardrobe. That

fit

These twelve pieces

outfit twice!

its

you through two working

to take

silks

way

workmanship

and lightweight
they look; they

can be worn throughout the year, no matter what the season.

Deciding on a color scheme
favorite neutral,

whether

it

is

the

is

black,

first

step in Capsule dressing.

Choose your

brown, navy, wine, gray or

beige. This

make it easy later on when you choose your accessories and your coat.
While some Capsules can be formed around neutrals, others can combine
will

bright colors or neutrals with brights.

One young woman wanted

that could look very conservative at times, but also

fun with color.

wardrobe

would allow her

to

have

38

Getting

It

Together

THE PROBLEM
When Nancy

B.

graduated from the University of Virginia, she got a job with a

small publishing

was spent
and

company

an executive

as

at her desk, she did

publicists.

assistant.

Although most

have opportunities to meet with

She found that the clothes she had worn

place in this business environment. "Clothing at school

also

found that she wanted

change her

to

masculine clothes in college. But

Besides,

hiding

in college

my

boyfriend says

own

now I want

style. "I

were out of

was very low key," she

wore pants and sweaters." Not only did she need

said. "I

of her time

writers, editors

different clothes, she

wore very baggy, almost

to look softer

and more feminine.

have a good figure and he complains that I'm

it."

THE SOLUTION
In going through

Nancy's college wardrobe, several items stood out. She had a

heather tweed suit in a gray /mauve combination that she had used for special
occasions in school, and which could

indicated that
in

now become

had a purple Shetland sweater and a mauve

also

mauve was

silk

a staple in her closet. She

blouse that she loved. She

her favorite color and she wished she had

more

things

it.

We put aside
sule

the

baggy corduroys and faded

around gray and mauve.

skirt,

both

in

and decided

mauve, which would give her another

the heather jacket with the

skirt.

jeans,

Then we added

to build a

Cap-

We found a mohair jacket and pleated wool crepe

mauve

skirt

suit.

She could also wear

and the mauve jacket with

a plaid skirt in shades of gray

the heather

and mauve, and a pair of

gray pleated trousers, both of which would work with the two jackets. In addition to her

blue

mauve

shirt,

we added an

shirt, all in soft fabrics.

them. The

last

item she

felt

ivory

shirt, a

pale gray shirt and a light

Her purple sweater could be worn over any of

she needed was a dress, and this time

we

chose a

Gray /Mauve Capsule

Gray

Mauve

Will

work with

All skirts

A.

Jacket

B.

Jacket

c.

Skirt

D.

Skirt

E.

Skirt

F.

Pants

Will

and dress

make

tweed

suit

with

skirt

Plaid full

Crav Mauve

Blouse

H.

Blouse

I.

Blouse

J-

Blouse

K.

Sweater

Dress

All skirts

Accessories

Shoes

and pan

Getting

40

It

Together

mauve wool jersey dress with a jewel neck, long sleeves, a narrow waist and
full skirt to show off her figure, but covered up enough to wear to work with or
without either of the two jackets she had. Nancy loved looking for bargains
and bought her clothes on

To give

sale

and

her Capsule a polished look,

at discount stores for $225.

we

rejected the clogs she

had been wearing

and chose two pairs of pumps, one in wine and one

wine envelope handbag completed the picture.
for so long,

Discovering your best Capsule colors can be a

you've always worn gray, but

this is the

fair skin light

against black?

up against pale

Does red make you

A neat

may

be that

It

time to find the "real" you.

strong in black, authoritative in gray, or do

your

new awakening.

in gray.

you

pastels or
feel

feel
is

more

Do you feel

sincere in blue?

the contrast

daring or do you

Does

more dramatic

feel

dominant

purple? Take the following quiz to find out your true color preferences.

in

Color Profile
1.

Arrange the clothes

in

Include

pants,

Which

2.

Now

3.

your closet by color only.

jackets,

and

dresses.

you don't wear very

dominant in the remainder

eliminate the clothes

What

often.
of

skirts,

all

colors appear most often?

colors are

your wardrobe?

What

color do you associate with each of the

following adjectives?

Masculine,
Feminine

Dowdy
Sophisticated

Sad

Sincere

Cheerful

Boring
Conservative
Aggressive

4.

5.

If

Now circle those adjectives you would like to have

applied to you.

you had to wear the same outfit

what color would it be?

for three days in

a row,

If

you were

color outfit

invited to lunch with your boss,

what

would you choose7

Think of outfits you have worn that have brought

you many compliments. What colors are they?

If

7.

you could buy one

8.
9.

outfit that

you have seen rewhat color

cently in a store or in a magazine,

would

Think
mire.

it

of

be?

someone whose style of dressing you adcolors do they usually wear?

What

Have you

recently tried

but were afraid to buy

What

on something, loved

it?

What

color do you feel best in?

color

was

it?

it,

Getting

42

It

Together

CHOOSING YOUR CAPSULE

Every

woman who works

an

in

meets with

office or

clients or other

people in

business situations needs one suit in a dark solid color. In situations such as
conferences, presentations, reviews, or job interviews, a dark suit

man

in a similar situation

suit.

A woman

must look as

basic colors are black,

is

in order.

wouldn't think twice: he'd pull out his good navy

sincere

and authoritative as her male

brown, navy, wine, gray or

choose black. (Our second color

will

peers.

The

beige. In this case we'll

be red which will be introduced later on.)

To start, you'll need one black jacket and one black skirt. Though together they
make a total suit, they may be bought as separates from a sportswear department, (in which case make sure the blacks match) or they may be purchased as
a unit from a suit or dress department.

The second

jacket

and

skirt

may

be of a

lighter color or in a subtle pattern

such

as a tweed, herringbone, or houndstooth. In this case, a salt-and-pepper tweed

would be
skirt

good companion

to the black suit. Select a

components. In making your

the

tweed

skirt,

and

selection,

that the

be sure that the black jacket works with

tweed jacket goes well with the black

best fabrics to choose are wool, silk, cotton

fibers

which have the look and

The shapes

of the jackets

ment both

skirts.

you choose

may

You may

you

feel there is

and

The

be the same or different, so long as they comple-

feel

you have

greater diversity in your Capsule

to the hip.

One may

one particular shape that

in a longer look.

if

be a traditional

One may be a short jacket, stopping at the

Of course, they may both be the same style
suits

your figure

prefer jackets that stop at the waistline; taller

more comfortable

skirt.

linen. All of these are natural

jackets that have different silhouettes.

waist, the other long

women may

and

feel of quality.

blazer, the other a cardigan shape.

if

tweed jacket and a tweed

(matching, of course), again choosing either sportswear or actual suit

best. Shorter

women may

feel

Working Wardrobe

The same
and

43

one

slim, the other pleated.

The

a front-button dirndl.

texture.

wool

ground. Teaming

If

on you.

don't

buy

it

dressed

it

thing to

remember

if

women

that

is

a naive salesperson

whatever you wear,

in the

On

you

tells

and

six feet tall;

doesn't matter whether

wardrobes year

the latest thing). Fashion

if

something looks

world don't follow every fashion

terrific

Wear it! The best

fad, but build

on

their

after year.

and now we need the blouses. At

skirts,

one blouse should be white or off-white.

need

this

kind of

shirt

with your dark

Just like the

whether tailored or

soft, for the

look you

like.)

be

in

will

first

bow

You may

top in a different silhouette from the

you might

like a

blouse should be in a

neck or stock
light

As

for

to

match the

tie.

Your

shade such as

to the style,

if

skirt. If

you've chosen a

your second blouse or vice versa.

third blouse could be another solid color, or as in this case,

up the foulard pattern

(I'll

style,

decide to pick another white or cream

first.

bow

appearance.

depend on your

another solid color, preferably a

beige, gray, pale blue, or pink.

first,

it

Your

crepe fabric, long sleeved, with a notched collar,

may

businessman, you'll

suit for a crisp, efficient

use the terms shirt and blouse interchangeably, as

The

must look

it

are five feet three, you'll

the latest look in Vogue.

least

your

it's

you

if

the other hand,

it's

O.K., we've selected the jackets and

shirt for

to

black

looks great on a high-fashion model, but drowns you out,

If it

(even

second blouse

set against a

with a blouse of the same fabric would give a

trying to imitate them.

silly

on you,

our second color, red,

pants are your style, you might even substitute trousers

magazine models are about

look

and

softer in look

would add another dimension

skirts.

The most important

right

will also bring in

this print skirt

dress look as well.

one of the

your capsule can be

third skirt in

challis in a foulard pattern

your wardrobe. This

for

They may both be straight

One skirt may be a side wrap, the other

principle applies to the shape of the skirts.

slim, or

you choose

you would pick

the latter,

it

must work

Getting

44

with your tweeds as well as with your

The

solids.

can look

right foulard

with a tweed; the wrong one can be a disaster. This

may

be a

little

the trained eye of a professional salesperson can help a great deal.

blouse can be a soft shirt style and introduce an accent color

It

Together

terrific

tricky,

The

as, for

and

fourth

example,

chrome yellow.

Two

sweaters are the next pieces to acquire.

in a solid color.

that

It

The

first style

should be a cardigan

could be black, gray, brick, red, royal blue, purple

works with your

and your blouses. The choice

skirts

In this case, a red sweater

would work with

all

the skirts

and

any color

yours to make.

is

pull together the

whole capsule. The second sweater should be a pullover, preferably a V neck or

jewel neck that can be worn alone or over a blouse. The color and shape of this
sweater should
as

on

its

own.

work

well under your cardigan

and under your

jackets as well

A black pullover can be worn with the black skirt to make a one-

piece dress look.

One

last

piece will complete the picture,

and

that

is

a dress. This should be a

tailored style, long sleeved with a slim skirt. This very functional dress

have a

shirt collar, jewel neck, turtle

wool, and in a neutral color that

tweed

jacket,

will

neck or high V.

that

you

should be

and your cardigan. You could choose cream,

feel

comfortable

your Capsule. This dress

in the color

will

may

in a silk

or

look good under your black jacket, your

but for this Capsule we'll use red. Again, the

is

It

red, gray, or black,

most important thing

you choose, and

be perfect at the

that

it

office, especially

with a jacket for business meetings. With the right accessories,

it

to

remember

works with

when worn
will

be great

for drinks, dinner, or the theater.

Of

course,

your

suits

give

accessories, a suit will take

you

you

the

easily

same

flexibility.

from morning

By simply changing

to night.

Working Wardrobe

45

THE DRESS OPTION

What

if

you

prefer dresses to sportswear?

you? Absolutely. The key here

should consist of seven pieces
are in a conference

Is

the Capsule

Concept

a dress-and-jacket look.

feasible for

simple Capsule-

five dresses and two jackets. Once again,

room, eye

to eye with

your peers or superiors,

broad shouldered as they. This

to look as
It

is

doesn't really matter whether

you

is

you'll

fairly tailored

tailored style to

and

many

most

dresses are the

Once

and have long sleeves

looks than

it

is

if

you

want

the function of the jackets.

are wearing a blouse

and

skirt or a dress

beneath the jacket. But the kind of dress you're wearing does matter.

be

if

possible.

one with

It's

It

should

easier to adapt a simple

ruffles

and

flourishes. Shirt-

flexible.

again, a two-color

scheme

is

important. This time we'll

work with navy

beige. Again, the fabrics will be natural fibers or blends of silk, wool, linen,

and cotton.

The

first

or beige.

dress

must have a navy

Combining

this dress

colors match) will give

ensemble

jacket outfits,
select

you an

like this in a dress

skirt,

while the bodice could be navy, white,

with your navy jacket (and again, be sure the

excellent suit look.

department.

Many

which saves you the problems

You may be

able to find an

manufacturers make dress and

of matching.

The second

dress

However, a simple high round or bow neckline would work well

change of pace, for your third dress you might
tie print,

like a small pattern

beige choice

neck.

is

a silk shirtdress, the second might be a

The

solid rust or

fifth dress

copper color.

might be

in

too.

a plaid or a check that combines the basic Capsule colors.

dress could be in another shade of beige, perhaps in another style.

bow

you

could be beige, and again, a shirtdress would be an excellent choice.

As

perhaps a

The fourth
If

wool crepe with

your

first

a jewel or

another pattern or perhaps introduce a

Getting

46

You

will

over

all

need two jackets, one

of the dresses, giving

with the blue

in

you

navy and one

in beige.

Together

Your jackets will work

suited looks as well as contrasting outfits.

outfit, the beige jacket

should match the beige

not a pure match, the colors should blend. The jacket shapes
different,

It

blazers or cardigans, since both styles

dresses. Naturally, the dresses will be fine

on

their

work

skirt. If

may

As

they are

be similar or

well with tailored

own, and need not be worn

with a jacket to look complete.

One woman came

to

me

anxiously seeking help for a

new wardrobe. She knew

she preferred wearing dresses but wasn't sure she could get enough looks from

them.

Navy /Beige
5 dresses

+2

jackets

Navy

Beige

=15

Dress Capsule

different looks

Will

work with

Both jackets and

Dress
Both jackets and

II

C
a

Dress
Both jackets and

Dress

two tone Beige

Dress

top/Navy

Both jackets and

skirt

Both jackets and

Dress

Jacket

G.

Jacket

Coat

Getting

48

It

Together

THE PROBLEM
Sarah

S.

had stayed home

to raise four children, but

when

the youngest entered

high school, Sarah decided to get a job. With her interest in

art,

and a college

museum.
work was terribly fashion conscious, Sarah soon found
that her job demanded she be at openings and receptions as well as at luncheons
with the press. The casual clothes which had served her well would no longer
do the job, and the cocktail clothes she owned were too dressy to go to work.
What she needed were clothes that would take her from the storage rooms of
degree in art history, she

Although no one

the

museum

was

hired to

do public

relations for a small

at

to lunches

and big receptions sometimes

one day.

all in

THE SOLUTION
Sarah

felt

most comfortable

in dresses,

and because she was

weight, she preferred to wear dark colors which she

She chose a Capsule

in black

felt

made

slightly over-

her look slimmer.

and gray but knew she could highlight her face

with brightly colored accessories. She chose mostly jumper style dresses as they
could be worn with the blouses she already owned, or bare, with jewelry to
dress

them up. She

these as well.

The

also

felt

outfit she

comfortable

had worn

in shirtdresses so she selected

for job interviews

was

a black

two of

and white

checked jumper which she had teamed with a black jacket. She added a black
jumper, a gray jumper and a gray print
shirtdress. In addition, she

silk shirtdress.

She already had a black

bought a gray velvet jacket which could go over

all

of the dresses. For $435 Sarah built a Capsule of thirty-four different looks

based on five dresses.

To

brighten her Capsule, Sarah chose three silk scarves, one in red, one in hot

pink, and one in royal blue. She

owned

earrings

and necklaces as well as a good

watch. She also had a pair of black slingback shoes.

What

she did need

was

Black /Gray Capsule

Black

Gray

Will

work with

Jackets or on

A.

Dress

B.

Dress

on

Jackets or

c
D.

its

own Withorwitho

own With

on

Jackets or

own With

Dress

Dress

Skirt

Jacket

G.

Jacket

H.

Blouse

I.

Blouse

J-

Blouse

K.

Blouse

Sweater

White bow-neck

Yellow turtleneck

Accessories

Shoes

its

or without

its

or without

Getting

pair of black

pumps and

Together

a small black handbag. "With this Capsule," she said,

I'm dressed appropriately at

"I feel

It

can be as dressed up or dressed

my

down

office

as

and

look right in the evening.

like."

WHAT ABOUT A COAT?

The

plus piece in

Capsules

any wardrobe
and

in color

style.

is

a coat. Ideally,

business to pleasure, informal to dressy.

chunk
If

you

of

will

it

work with

all

good coat should go from morning

your budget, the mileage you

Though
from

get

initially

it

of

your

to night,

will take a

good

will justify the investment.

it

are buying an all-weather coat, there are several things to consider. First,

the coat should

fit

over

of

all

your

clothes.

should be roomy enough to go

It

over your heaviest jackets, be comfortable over your bulkiest sweaters, and

cover your lowest hemlines. (This, of course, excludes formal occasions,

you

will

need either an evening jacket or ankle-length coat.) The

comes with coats

give

you

the kind of shoulder

when you
have.

No

have raglan sleeves or dropped shoulders. These

that

try

on coats

and arm room you

will give

you

good idea

will need.

of

when

easiest

Wearing a jacket

how much room you

sense feeling like a stuffed soldier in a brand

new

fit

styles

will

coat.

The second consideration is protection from the cold and from wet weather.
Button-out linings are a good solution. The standard trenchcoat can work well
for the

day but the

to solve this

typical tan color doesn't translate well to the night.

problem

is

to

choose a trenchcoat

black. This will look appropriate for

wool gabardine, a

lining

is

One way

dark color such as navy or

day or evening. Whether

classic coat like this will

Another type of coat that takes a

in a

in

cotton or

work with most wardrobes!

a "shell," an unlined coat with very

simple lines that can take a fur lining, or even

slip

over a fur coat or a sweater-

Working Wardrobe

knit coat.

51

The concept

is

the

same

as the trenchcoat, but the style of the shell

is

not quite as sporty.

There are some fabrics that are perfect for

is

featherweight and can fold to

fit

inside

travel.

Qiana, for example,

your handbag or

briefcase.

There are

other nylons and blends that do similar tricks. These coats are excellent protection

from the

rain,

and can save you concern about sudden showers whether

you're dashing around

town or

traveling.

With

coat can look dressy enough for evening and

An added bonus can

be the reversible coat

change the feeling of your coat to

Fashion can be frivolous, but

it

so well,

stores

way

to

spirit.

The

quilted

down

coat

is

have sold quilted coats for a long

only recently that they have become such a part of the fashion scene.

it is

Although
the cold

be appropriate for work.

kind of fabric, an easy

also can be practical.

good example. Though army surplus

time,

shiny surface, this kind of

in this

your

suit

its
still

styles

may

change, quilted

down does

offer great protection

and from wet weather. In addition, because the

it

can be stunning night or day

in

from

fabric takes color

everything from black to the boldest

coloration.

Choosing a color for your coat may be a challenge depending on

how

your Capsules

you have

your Capsules.
with which
grease as

it

are. In general,

will

much

the evening as

dark color

it is

is

wisest to pick the darkest color

practical for

work with your

will

during the day.

and

that

it

in

reasons including the ease

clothes, the fact that

as a lighter color will,

it

many

varied

will

it

will not

show

dirt

or

look as attractive during

52

Getting

Together

It

THE TOTAL YOU

Before going further with your wardrobe,

your

yourself, to look at

style

is

fashion

it

hair,

may be worth

essential part of a

certainly

an

moment

and your makeup. To be

see the total you.

and know what works best

features

an
is

your

your clothes you must

fortable in

body and

figure,

to analyze

truly

com-

You must know your own

for you. Developing

your

own

good working wardrobe. Though following

interesting part of

life,

as kindred to the times as seeing

the latest movie, hearing the newest music, or reading the current bestseller,
of these should reflect

and

your own

taste.

But finding your

own

all

style takes time

testing.

Hair and makeup follow similar fashion trends.

only what

is

the latest look but

major department store

what

is

most

It

is

important to

flattering to

offers free sessions with

beauty experts

everything from analyzing your skin to teaching you the

niques. Stressing

your needs

ing, or for a special

While

it is

in lipstick,

lines,

makeup

for

who

will

do

cosmetic tech-

work, for even-

new looks in eye shadow, or daring new colors

makeup for work should look as natural as possible.
mean you shouldn't wear any; it does mean that whatever you
that

fresh

and

light.

company which some

executives demonstrates

woman may

There

stores

minutes. Although she uses a

that a

it is

latest

photographic session, will help them to help you.

remember

wear should look

women

whether

not

fun to try out exotic

That doesn't

metics

to them,

know

you. Almost every

how

full

is

a fascinating videotape from a cos-

show from time

to time. In

it,

one of

their

she creates her face every day in fourteen

range of cosmetics to cover every problem

have, from deep circles under the eyes to creeping smile

her finished look

is

attractive without being heavy.

Working Wardrobe

Many

53

cosmetic firms are

now

may have and how

problems you
include a

shadow,

full
all

much

stressing skin treatment as

Experts from these firms will analyze your skin to find out

range of products, including everything from special soap to eye

geared to your skin's needs.

Hair that overshadows you

is

your way or causes you

disconcerting to

work.

may

may

to others.

is

styles

very important, and

like so

If

your hair

trips to the hairdresser

features

really

good

and advise you on what

your

is

that

it

total self.

It

will

clothes,
is

many

her compliments.

it is

the care

too,

it

may

an investment that

is

find that

of

good cosmetician,

No

you need

yourself

more

will assess

your

it

matter

always look better

interesting that so

and

things that are good,

it,

you may

well cut,

will

for

That

into a plastic-coated rubber

it

look best for you.

you

it is

face.

with barettes or combs.

if

how much

you pay

atten-

many remarks about Nancy

Reagan are about how well groomed she always

indeed expensive,

away from your

you can take care

beautician, like a

money you spend on your

tion to

and

that gets

the hairstyle, the better

are accustomed to paying. But

can offer a good return.

easily.

The simpler

new

more than you

or obvious.

out of your eyes continuously can be

it

back and putting

involve trying out

A good haircut

fewer

to brush

it

stiff

no more help than glaring makeup. Hair

hair, try a style that takes

be as easy as brushing

band, or

cost

you and

you have long

If

what

it is,

The treatment can

best to deal with them.

Like your makeup, your hairstyle should be flattering but not

in

makeup.

as

what type

is.

Although her clothing

is

effort she puts into her total look that brings

Getting

54

Once your basic Capsule

you may want

is set,

robe can contain a single Capsule with an

two color scheme, or

You

another

in

may

it

No

if

are adding Capsules,

Your working wardof pieces based

on a

all

may

be combined within your

work

together.

you want more than two colors

in

your

closet.

work around black or navy, not both. As you

But

if

will see

discuss accessories, this simplifies everything.

charts offer suggestions for Capsule combinations.

make your own

follow them exactly,

springboard for your

Two

it.

might, for example, have one Capsule in black and white, and

The Working Capsule

may

to

number

be composed of different Capsules which inter-

gray and yellow. These two groups

one can blame you

when we

add

to

infinite

working wardrobe since the four colors can

you

Together

ON THE CAPSULE CONCEPT

BUILDING

relate.

It

own

substitutions, or use

them

You
as a

ideas.

of the suggested Capsules are geared to a tailored, suit look.

These are the

Black/Red and the Ivory /Tan. The other Capsules, the Navy/Wine, Forest/
Ginger, and the

around
yet

dresses.

stay

Gray/Brown

With

within

all

of

offer a softer look.

The Navy/Beige works

them you can go from very dressy

framework

the

of

an

to almost casual,

appropriate

Working

Wardrobe.

Remember,
will

the emphasis

hold their shape and

adaptable to

all

is

on

quality; natural fibers

last longer.

At

the

same

climates. Investing in one Capsule

Wardrobe. With

it

you can

months without repeating

and lightweight

time, they are

is all

you need

get at least forty different looks,

the

same

outfit twice.

fabrics

more

for a

easily

Working

enough

for

two

Working Wardrobe

55

REAL PEOPLE
The two women
in their

in this

chapter have achieved success in their careers as well as

wardrobes. They have learned to dress

in a

way

own

that suggests their

personal style and good taste.

Each

woman

ferent

is

in a different profession

lifestyle.

demands

with different job demands and a

common

Yet there are certain

good deal

dif-

denominators: work that

of travel, hours that go long past the usual five o'clock

day, and high visibility. While each woman's taste and budget has grown with
her position, each has had to develop her

own working wardrobe. With

this

goal in mind, each has, whether consciously or not, used the Capsule Concept.

These
of

women

offer very different

Hanne Merriman and

approaches to dressing

the vibrancy of

individual, they each offer ideas that

may

the tailored elegance

Kaaren Gray. While

help

you

their styles are

your own working

solidify

wardrobe.

Kaaren Gray
Kaaren Gray paints her wardrobe with splashes of color. For
essence of
statement.
live

life.

She surrounds

"To a great

with," says the

after eleven years at

everything in

growing

in

by seeing

life.

extent, the colors

tall,

woman on

want

pale blonde editor of

House

may

combinations
a

herself with

&

to

new look

at the

her, color
it

&

is

the

her strongest

wear are the colors

House

want

to

Garden. "Even now,"

Garden magazine she says

take a
I

and makes

it

"I

get

my

ideas

from

garden and see pretty flowers

never would have thought

of.

could be influenced

the street wearing something unusual, or even

by

looking at a plate of food that's been beautifully prepared and put together.

could be movies, theater, paintings, or anything around

rethink

my colors.

cut out pictures, keep color books,

myself on interesting color combinations."

me

that

It

makes me

and even write notes

to

Getting

56

It

Together

Her clothing may sometimes bring a doubletake. Her Capsules are Purple /Red
and Blue/Apricot and she works them back and

little

better

if

you

the best investments

belt.

You

and put them

get a 'look' with

it."

She

can wear

it

many different ways. "One

Mary McFadden jacket,

in

ever made," she said, "was a

quilted silk with bright flowers

with any solid

on

sleeveless silk blouse in a

That has become the most

it.

silk dress.

combinations. For cocktail parties

a lot of fun and

invest in one special item that gives her the chance to play with color even

more, a jacket, for instance, that can be used

it

try the unusual. For example, take purple pants

with a turquoise blouse, and than add a red

may

forth. "I find

You can make something look

very interesting to combine unusual colors.

plum

and

color,

wear the same plum top with pants

bund. So I'm having fun with

And

belt in a

in

fantastic thing.

can put together different

skirt.

With

it

wear a

very vivid blue. Other times

and

that are sky blue

And you

it.

then

have an apricot

of

my

cummer-

apricot

could seriously wear

it

with a pair

of jeans."

For

this color expert, there is

no such thing as

"safe."

grain. "I'm sort of allergic to the idea of putting

"I

would wear

the elements.

the wintertime. But

would

have a navy gabardine

try to

a quilted jacket or combined with

unit."

Even when she has the

a black suit," she

It

basic color."

suit

The other

change

it

have her

do have

but with a

staple in her

little

simply goes against her

suit," she said.

skirt that

more

some other color

basics, they

went on, "but

has the feeling of a

It

on a navy

wear a

rather than

make

special look.

"I

wardrobe

it

a fixed

don't have

a purple gabardine skirt

more

and

fashion. In fact, purple

is silk

lot in

for me, perhaps with

tunic blouses. She

coat.
is

my

buys

Working Wardrobe

them

mix with pants or wear with

in different colors to

give a

The

57

little

first

more

time

"style" than

skirts.

met Kaaren, she wore a

silk shirtdress in a brilliant

That shock of color stood out against her pale skin and flaxen
shirtdresses are

something

she added,

style,

As

editor of a

sibility to

home

building

told me, "whether

And

royal blue.

'Those

silk

keeping to her offbeat

have an asymmetric neckline,

And

can

furnishings magazine, Kaaren feels there's a certain respon-

is

like

it's

lot of

show and

case for a sense of individuality.

own

they

feels

to dinner."

look good. But there's a

Conde Nast

me.

hair.

and the colors are sensational.

find the look

from work out

right

live in," she told

particularly like the ones that

"I

or buttons off center.

go

She

shirts or tailored tops.

"It

competition, too. "Just being in the

tell,"

she confides. That

matters

how you

just neatness or a certain style.

point of view in the end."

As

for Kaaren,

"my

makes

a stronger

put things together," she

You have

to

have your

point of view

is

color."

Kaaren Gray: Working Capsule

Colors Purple/Red. Blue/Apricot
Fabrics

Silks.

Accessories

Wool

Shoes

Then throws

in a

gabardine. Natural fibers.

in

brown

or wicker. Bags can have accent textures, colors. Jewelry

takes texture, like shells or beads, or has a

Style

A colorful

wide range of bright accents.

point of view.

Key words Combinations. Color

blocks. Unusual.

chunky look.

Getting

58

It

Together

Hanne Merriman
She could barely speak English when she came to

one of the few top

women

retailers in the

country and

this

now

she's

U.S. She learned her English watching

style watching other women. "You see it all the time in our
Hanne Merriman, the president of Garfinckel's. "New buyers come
in, and within three months you can see a big change in the way they look."
Ideas for dressing come fast and furiously from designers, from the market,
from people in the store. You can drown in a sea of ideas. "Everybody tries to

soap operas and her

store," says

become themselves very

What does
office for

when

she look for

an interview,

be wearing.

fast."

like to see

she's hiring? "If a

young woman comes

people in

understands herself, her colors, and her style

beiges,

browns and grays. Therefore,

robe colors simple keeps her

every decision

that

what

is

is

life

want

when

Keeping

simple too, a stark contrast to her

to

spend a

get up,

my

lot of

get dressed," she said, "I

time trying to think what

usually decide before

my

colors to beiges, browns, and grays

go together.

When you

want

same kinds

sions.

The

What

she buys

of colors,

easier

is

work where

have

is

kept constantly

things to be easy.
to do. In the

it's

you make

means

there are a lot of things

start getting into lots of colors,

very easy.
it,

"It

the better

it

morn-

bath what I'm going to wear.

you have

about your underwear, your hose, your shoes, your handbag."

the

for."

complex. From what kinds of looks and what quantities to

under pressure. "So when

that

would look

tend to wear them." Keeping her ward-

buy, to what stores to build and where to build them, she

ing

my

colors appeal to this chic, blonde executive? "I'm comfortable in the

What

don't

into

you can prejudge and say what she should

their own style of dressing. As long as she

don't think

doesn't take

you long

If

to

worry

she stays in

to

make

deci-

is."

usually separates, skirts, silk shirts, jackets, and sweaters. She

adds on to the pieces she already has, updating her wardrobe with new shapes

Working Wardrobe

and

textures.

59

One Capsule

included a beige

she bought for a trip and

now wears

work

to

top and a soft dirndl skirt from Calvin Klein. She

silk knit

repeated the same pieces again in a deeper tobacco color.

Then she added

a string color cable knit sweater from Ralph Lauren, beige linen pants, and a

macrame

from

tunic top

Irka.

Anne

top and pants from

Two

other pieces were an

ombre

striped beige

Klein.

worked together, so that every top could be worn with every

To update this group the following year, she bought some purple
pieces. "When the purples started coming out and I tried them on,"

All of these pieces

bottom.
accent

she says,
tie in

new

"it

very

was another very comfortable color

much with

the beiges.

It

just

fit

to dress with because

right in

and

it

gives

you

it

does

whole

feeling."

The important

thing in dressing

feeling comfortable.

make

If

fashion

is
is

not having to worry about your clothes and

a complicated business,

it

is

Hanne's aim to

dressing with style as easy as possible.

Hanne Merriman: Working Capsule

Colors Gray/Brown.

Purple/Beige.

Fabrics Gabardines. Tweeds.

Accessories

Watch.
diamond
Keeps

it

Two

Gold

Ease.

bracelet.

May wear

minimum.

to a

Style Clean and simple. Very

Key words Comfort.

Stays with natural fibers.

pairs of earrings for day: silver balls, gold balls. For evening:

studs.

down

Silks. Linens.

neutral, very natural.

gold chain with or without pendant.

Chapter 2

THE ESSENTIAL
ACCESSORIES

JLashion designers and fashion directors give as

much

thought and time to accessorizing clothes as they do to the clothes themselves.

Taking one

outfit,

they can give

it

a dozen different looks.

Fashion shows are a good example of

over and over, accessorized

fessional eye can't

tell

that

fashion capitals, or in

it's

New

how this is done.

in totally different

same

the

Clothes

may be

repeated

ways. Sometimes, even the pro-

thing. In Paris

and Milan,

the

European

York, fashion shows are major productions, with

music, models and choreography galore. Costs run in the tens of thousands of
dollars

and designers want

again, they

come

make

their

money's worth. Showing an

sure the press and buyers have seen

it.

in the colors or the style of the accessories, creating just

to turn a buyer's head.

after seeing the clothes

they liked.

How strange

it is

outfit again

and

A dramatic change can

enough difference

for buyers to go back to the

showroom

on the runway, and have trouble identifying the items

What may look

like a

dumpy

can look exotic and exciting when

it's

dress or a simple suit

on the hanger,

been sashed, bowed or bejeweled.

Working Wardrobe

61

Some Seventh Avenue

designers insist that their clothes be

shown or advertised

Anne

Klein, Halston, Bill

with only the accessories they

and Geoffrey Beene

Blass

and jewelry

the right accessories can

The same
classic,

will all

their clothing

if

thing can

is

Calvin Klein,

select.

send their

belts, shoes, stockings,

bags

They know the difference

wrong ones can ruin an outfit.

being photographed.

make and how

happen on a

simple clothing, well

own

lesser scale too.

made but

were a jewel and polished each

the

outfit

once did a fashion show of

conservative.

treated each piece as

if it

with accessories. The show drew raves,

because the merchandise looked exciting and wearable.

That's the trick used

by fashion professionals when

photography layouts. Every

merchandise to look

store,

no matter what

they're

it

working on

price levels,

only

like a million dollars. That's the

mail orders. Whether an outfit costs $29.95 or $2,995

may

its

way

it

wants

its

will bring in

has to look great. They

use unusual color combinations, or focus on a marvelous belt, a boldly

colored scarf, an unusual necklace, a striking handbag. Suddenly a dull dress

looks

was

by

terrific.

That's

what makes

often surprised

mail.

Not

by

the

just the skirt

the reader stop, look,

number

of people

and send

who would

order a total outfit

and

the

bag as well. That's smart shopping. After

all, it

took a professional eye to put those pieces together in the

fresh

and

Why not

coupon.

or the sweater. No, they would send in for those but

also order the beret, the belt,

best.

in the

use that experience and taste level

if

way

that looked

you're not sure of

your own.
Store

windows are done with the same kind of care and attention to
More time again is usually spent picking just the right accents than

accessories.

in pulling the clothes.

can

make

The

last year's discard.

right shoe, the right bag, the belt, scarf

and jewelry

They can make something look like the latest thing or

They can make it look expensive or cheap, dramatic or dull.

a difference.

The

62

Essential Accessories

always had fun doing a whole bank of windows, repeating one dress and

accessorizing

wool

it

differently in each

window. For example, take

Put a creamy turtleneck sweater under

shirtdress.

leather belt, use

it,

a simple black

cinch

it

with a wide

heavy textured stockings, low heeled walking shoes and a

shoulder bag. You've got a great casual look. Take the same dress and

fill

in the

neck with ropes of pearls and gold chains. Tie the waist with a thin black patent
leather belt, use sheer tinted hose, patent leather slingback shoes,

black envelope bag.

It's

just right for

dress can take a striped silk scarf

pendant.

and a small

going out to dinner. In between,

worn

this

same

as an ascot, or a simple gold chain

and

can take leather pumps or patent slingbacks, bright colored accents

It

or earthy toned ones. Each accessory changes the look of the dress and finishes
it

differently.

Accessories are as important to the Capsule Concept as the basic clothing

elements.

The Capsule Concept

gives an easy formula for putting together a

basic wardrobe. But every Capsule needs certain items to complete

a total look
accessories.

means

Once

this

your Capsule. You

clothes, going

that each clothing Capsule has

A man

on

we'll

to build

on

is

basics.

won many cases on the Supreme

When his wife is at home, she coor-

successful lawyer, has

dinates his outfit, picking out the right shirt

choosing his shoes and socks.

When

codes his clothing so he can't

make

suit,

it

to another. Like the clothing Capsule, this

go beyond the

Court, but can't put his clothes together.

brown

Creating

it.

set of essential

be able to interchange accessories as well as

from one Capsule

know, a very

own

has been established, you can go beyond

will also

the foundation. Later

its

she

is

and

tie

to

away on

go with

a mistake. That

everything else he picks will be in the

his suit,

a business

way

if

trip,

and even
she color

he decides on a

brown family

too.

Working Wardrobe

63

The Capsule Concept works

the

you

accessories for each Capsule,

same way. By having a

can't

go wrong. Some

set

of essential

women

always stay

with these same accessories, keeping things to an easy decision. They find

makes

for quick dressing

all

the time. Others enjoy collecting accessories,

it

and

use them for creativity in their clothes. But in both cases, they begin with the
basics for their Capsule.

These essential accessories

into five categories: shoes, handbags, jewelry,

fall

scarves and belts. Just as with your clothing, the essential accessories must be

planned ahead. Shoes, for instance, are an expensive purchase and should be
well thought out.

My next door neighbor recently asked me what she should do

with a pair of shoes she had

just

bought.

know

don't

"I

what's

them," she complained, "but they don't seem to go with anything

wrong with
I

own." Had

she bought them with anything specific in mind? "Not really," she replied.
did she

buy them?

"I just

be bought on impulse. They must be planned out

First,

think about the clothes

and when you

in

will

mind. You

suit

will

and a wine

you have

that

you need

lost

A writer friend

like the rest of

shirtdress for

your Capsule.

your Capsule, what colors they

set

are,

out with a specific color and style

a pair of shoes for work,

double to go out to dinner. You have

just

and

that

bought a navy

your Capsule. Deciding on navy pumps or

slingbacks in advance will save

because you

in

be wearing them. Then

may know

sometimes they

Why

liked them," she said sadly. But shoes are too costly to

you from picking out

bright green sandals

your head.

of

mine recently sold some

stories

and celebrated with a shop-

ping spree. She bought herself not one but two pairs of boots, each costing well

over a hundred dollars.

"Why

boots?"

"Not now." "What'll

"Why

not?

head and

said,

asked her, and she replied,

Aren't they in fashion?" Perhaps being too honest,

do now?" she moaned. "Well,

shook
it

my

doesn't really matter,"

The

Essential Accessories

be concerned with the

latest fashion."

64

answered. "After

all,

you don't have

"What do you mean?" she came back

but

certainly care about

it. It's

to

quickly.

part of

life."

may

"I

not write about fashion,

Now she is stuck with

two

pairs of

very expensive boots, because she bought them impulsively. She can't return

them because she wore them

right

away. She probably won't be wearing them

long though, because she hadn't thought out her purchase. In

reverse. After

we

talked,

and with

Capsule, and bought herself a beautiful black gabardine

anything

ever bought," she told me, "but

fact, just the

careful planning, she started a Black/White

suit. "It cost

never

more than

better about an

felt

investment."

THE PROBLEM
Kathy
gray.

B.

had a wardrobe based on neutral

With her dark skin and dark

colors, with a Capsule of beige

hair, the light

and

shades looked very attractive.

She stayed with simple, understated clothes, but wanted something to give
more depth to her dressing. She didn't like wearing scarves, and had a few
pieces of jewelry,

namely a

thin gold chain

and some small inexpensive stud

She wanted to make more of a statement about

earrings.

herself.

THE SOLUTION
At 5 foot

six,

in keeping.

in scale. For

clothes.

Kathy could carry clothes

We decided
example, a

to try earrings
set of

well,

and needed accessories

and necklaces

that

that

were

were chunky or large

oversized ivory beads looked wonderful with her

So did a very long rope of pearls that she could wind around four or

She started wearing earrings that were much larger than the tiny
studs. She found large gold balls, and large silver balls that set off her face. She
also found a very wide ivory cuff bracelet and lots of thin silver bangles. Kathy

five times.

found that by wearing one jewelry item as a

the ivory beads

one day, or

more punch. She

beat places.

all

single statement, as for example,

of the silver bangles the next,

also discovered that she loved looking for

it

gave her dressing

new

jewelry in off

Beige/Gray Working Capsule

Beige

A.

Jacket

B.

Jacket

c.

Skirt

D.

Skirt

E.

Pants

F.

Pants

G.

Blouse

H.

Blouse

I.

Blouse

Sweater

K.

Sweater

L.

Dress

Gray

Will

work with

All skirts

and pants

All jackets, blouses

All jackets, blouses

Accessories

Earrings

All skirts

and pan

All skirts

and pan

All skirts

and pan

All skirts

and pani

All skirls

and pai

The

66

Essential Accessories

THE PROBLEM
Judy B. had been working for several years as an agent for an insurance company. Her job required that she be
to see clients.

and
full
tie

but

skirt,

them, and
it

and out of her

car, traveling

around town

tailored, often a blazer, shirt

but wanted to give them a more interesting look. She had a drawer

know what to do with them. She wasn't sure how to

way when she wore them. She liked jewelry

of scarves but didn't

felt

in

She liked to wear clothes that were

they got in her

felt

didn't look right with her tailored clothes.

THE SOLUTION
After looking at Judy's scarves,

we

discovered that most of them were large

many

squares in big floral patterns. She had acquired

flected the taste of others rather than of herself.

of

them

as gifts

Judy decided to invest

and
in

re-

some

oblong scarves, from very narrow to wide. With these she could dress up her
shirts

with a

hacking

bow

tie

style, or as a

look, or

fill

in a neckline

with an ascot, or wear them

muffler inside or outside her jacket. She also bought two

small squares to use as a handkerchief in a blazer pocket

if

she didn't want

something around her neck.

As

for jewelry, she decided to keep that simple, too.

glasses, she didn't

want

With her short

hair

and

a lot of interfering looks. She bought one pair of gold

button earrings which she could wear every day. She also found an old gold
bangle bracelet she hadn't

By

scaling

down and

tailored look but

worn

in

years which looked great with her clothes.

keeping her accessories to a minimum, Judy retained her

gave

it

some

style.

Black/Gray Working Capsule

Gray

A.

Jacket

B.

Jacket

Will

work with

Skirt

D.

Skirt

E.

Skirt

All rackets, blouses

All jackets, blouses

Skirt

Blouse

H.

Blouse

I.

Blouse

Blouse

K.

Blouse

L.

Sweater

Accessories

Earrings

The

68

Essential Accessories

SHOES
From a

you need

practical standpoint,

at least

two

pairs of shoes in a

Capsule. Feet need a change from one day to the next, especially

doing

to be

Chapter

much walking

if

Working

you're going

or standing. For a working Capsule like those in

need a simple, tailored shoe. The shape most suited to this is a

pump, and though it could have an ankle strap, a cross strap, a bow or some
1,

you'll

other detail,

it

should be a

styles

may

good

taste. It is the

Although

kind of shoe that can work with clothes for the office and

can look attractive

at a restaurant as well.

suits, tailored dresses,

If

fairly simple, closed-heel, closed-toe shoe.

change, heels about an inch and a half to two inches are generally in

A pump

always works well with

or even a skirt and blouse.

you're buying a second pair, the next shoes could be slightly dressier, perhaps

and slightly open toe. (A good rule

thumb about open or bare shoes versus covered up ones is that if your

a slingback style, or ones with a closed heel

of

clothing

is

covered up, your shoes should be, too.) Between the

slingback, there will be

enough

flexibility to

possibly can, find one manufacturer that

and stay with

it.

No

shoe

is

pump and

go from morning to evening.

makes shoes

right, regardless of style,

that

if it's

fit

If

the

you

your foot well

not comfortable on

your foot.

When
fits

trying

on shoes,

it's

good idea

from your Capsule. You

around from one department

the outfits in hand.

reason

when

They

may

to bring with

you

at least

one of the out-

notice store display people carrying clothes

to another, selecting shoes

are the pros,

and accessories with

and they don't take chances. There's no

you're spending your money, that you can't do the same thing.

you can, wear

your clothes

and

try the shoes

with them. Things look very

Colors change, too, and

ferent

on the body than they do on the hanger or

work

differently

erally

be the same color or darker than your clothing. This gives a

when

they are

worn or mixed

shelf.

If

dif-

together.

shoe should genfluid line.

Working Wardrobe

69

Bright or light shoes bring the eye

sheer

tint of

your

downward. Wearing stockings

skirt will help pull

opaques or textured hose look best with heavy, textured clothing

skirts

and thick

balance.

And

knits.

They

like

tweedy

usually need a low heeled shoe to give

for evening or during the

summer,

if

them

you're wearing sandals, be

wear sandalfoot hose. That kind of attention

sure to

well-dressed

that are a

your look together too. Black or colored

to detail

is

one sign of a

woman.

HANDBAGS

A good handbag is an essential accessory for your daytime Capsule,

When

a friend of mine broke her toe,

asked her

It

seems as

hold

in

if

many women

your hand, not a suitcase

to

work.

your

Not only

weigh you down.

If

foot.

Broken toes

possessions into

uncomfortable,

it

should be a bag to

the necessities

become

need to carry a brush,

feel the

simple solution

it

of course.

happened. Embar-

life's

is it

the necessities;

Some women

overbearing, reevaluate them.

comb, and cosmetics

to

to stuff

do.

A handbag should hold

looks sloppy, too.

it

had dropped her handbag on her

rassed, she confessed she

and aching backs are two good reasons not

your purse.

how

to

is

keep an extra

set of

cosmetics, perhaps even including a toothbrush and toothpaste at your office in

a desk drawer.

If

your car

is

your

office,

consider the glove compartment

as an alternative.
of your handbag should, of course, conform to your Capsule. Jane
Tuman, fashion coordinator for Saks Fifth Avenue remarked how often she is

The color

surprised at the

wrong

number

color bag.

prefer black, use

of well-dressed

A burgundy
it

spoil their look with the

just

about any color.

If

you

with your black Capsule. The same goes for navy and

brown. But a black bag with a navy

thought out.

women who

bag can work with

outfit looks

misplaced and not well

The

70

Part of

my

job used to involve accessorizing the clothes for ads and catalogs.

For one spring catalog

we had sent dozens of bags ahead

way we knew we would have lots

photographer's studio. That

Oddly enough,
photographed,

Why?

we

as

choose from.

chose a bag to go with the dress on the model being

we found we

kept reaching for the same bags over and over.

It

just

purse, about fifteen dollars, but so flexible

about everything. By the time

everyone on the
bestseller,

sule because

it

Some women

it

We knew

would

it

Cap-

that's perfect for a

adapts to a great variety of clothes.

more comfortable carrying

feel

One word

small or hold on to

if

went

it

finished with the session,

was. That's the kind of accessory

it.

and

if

your

that's

else's

shoulder bag.

If

you do carry one, keep

targets.

Even a small shoulder bag can

fit

inside a

to carry both.

your work requires that you carry a large amount of papers, a briefcase

be a necessity. The ideal purse

sleek

and not

like a

will

fit

inside

your

bellboy trying to balance too

briefcase, so that

many

have even designed bags that go inside bags, rather

may remember from

may

you look

bags. (Some designers

Russian dolls you

like the

childhood.) But a small envelope or rectangular shaped

purse should be able to

slip inside

ury of being used for more than

most

just

briefcases. Briefcases

New

Jersey,

showed me

it.

Some

can offer the luxit

as an

Millicent Fenwick, the

Con-

carrying papers.

overnight case. Others carry their lunch in

gresswoman from

it

This will also save you from getting pickpocketed as

make easy

you need

a shoulder bag,

of caution, however; there's nothing worse than

being sideswiped by someone

briefcase,

we were

including the models, wanted that bag.

set,

and

preference, fine.

shoulder bags

all

A cream colored straw envelope popped up in picture after pic-

was an inexpensive

ture.

with

If

of time to the
to

Because there were a few colors and shapes that were adaptable to

kinds of looks.

be a

Essential Accessories

people use

the bright red leather briefcase that

Working Wardrobe

j\

she uses every day.

"It's

marvelous," she said,

"because

can bring

in

homemade bread on one side and important papers on the other." And for
some women, a briefcase is not a briefcase at all, but a colorful straw or canvas
tote that holds everything they need.

Al Hackl,

who

is

in the printing business, tells of a

company more than

for his

industry to

sell his

product out

men. This very attractive

in the field

woman wanted

woman who came to work

the first woman in his

was

and her potential customers were

to

embroidered, and

and many

Today

it

isn't

it

worked

sales in her

well.

come

departments as well as

in

She received

it

look

softer, she

had

it

many compliments on her brief-

orderbook.

necessary for a

world. Briefcases

all

look feminine but businesslike as

She decided to carry a briefcase, but to make

well.

case

ten years ago. She

woman

to use arts

and

crafts to be in the business

various sizes and colors and can be found in handbag

in traditional

men's and luggage areas. There are some

which look more feminine than others because of the color of the leather or the
trim or the shape of the frame.

It

doesn't hurt to soften your look in this case.

SCARVES
Isadora

Duncan overdid

it,

but two or three

silk

scarves can serve a multitude

An attractive scarf can add pizazz and change the look of a blouse,
or a dress. The shapes may vary, but generally a medium sized square or

of purposes.

a suit,

oblong works best. These can be made into mufflers, ascots, bows,
ties.
is

belts

and

Naturally, the colors should complement what's in your Capsule, but this

also a

good place

to introduce

new

tones and accents too. For a Black/Red

Capsule, you might have a purple scarf, a foulard print, and a boldly striped

Or you might prefer

Or florals with lots of

oblong.

strictly solids that

alone.

color.

you can mix together or wear

The

72

Some women always wear

Essential Accessories

a scarf with a coat. Leslie Stahl, the

CBS news

cor-

respondent, wore a bright blue scarf with her dark coat on the evening news

one winter.

It

not only brightened up her coat, but framed her face as well.

way a scarf is tied too, can send out the message that you are fashion
Some years the look is a bow to one side, other times it's a muffler worn
flipped over. Fashion magazines and store displays always show the latest

Just the

savvy.
just

look and

it's

easy to get the message.

Oblong scarves work well

54-inch bias scarf
the neck.

is

as mufflers, ascots,

the best size for a belt.

shirt collar.

The very

pocket handkerchiefs, a good

way

small squares that stores carry

to perk

Old scarves should never be discarded

teen years ago

still

better at

worn
work as

small square can be used as an ascot or tied in a knot and

under an open

They're

bows, and cummerbunds. The

The smaller 45-inch can be

bought several

in perfect shape,

silk

if

up a

jacket.

they're in

foulard

good condition. About

menswear squares

in

never go out of style with tweedy clothes, and

look forward to taking them out of the drawer each autumn. They're

sonal signal that

The following

fall

my

per-

has begun.

illustrations

mileage out of them.

fif-

Bermuda.

show how you can

tie

your scarves

to get the

most

Working Wardrobe

JLhe bow
be made close

to the

is

made most

easily with

neckline, over a jewel neckline, or under a collar.

suit or dress

an oblong

scarf. It

can

neck or dropped lower, and can be worn inside an open

and change the look of an

A pussycat bow can soften a

outfit to give

your Capsule a feminine

Illustration

Courtesy Echo

Scarfs.

The

Xhe
scarf.

It

hacking style

adds a sporty look to

is

jackets and

fold the scarf in half lengthwise

and place

another look
is

Essential Accessories

made with an oblong

To make it, first

great under coats.

it

around your neck so

that

you

are

holding the folded half in one hand and the two outside edges in the other.

Then put both edges through

the folded loop.

Illustration

Courtesy Echo

Scarfs.

Working Wardrobe

tie

can be

made

easily with

an oblong scarf.

It

a dash of color or pattern to a blouse, a sweater or a dress. Slip the scarf

your neck making the

left

side longer than the right.

Then wrap

can add

around

the long end

once around the short end and pull the long end through the top of the loop.

You can

adjust

it

to be high or low, to

dropped lower for a

sit

just

under the collar

like a

man's

tie

or

softer look.
Illustration

Courtesy Echo

Scarfs.

The

JLhe pouf
first

is

also

made with an oblong

Essential Accessories

scarf.

To make

it,

double the scarf around your neck, leaving one end longer than the other.

Then loop

the ends over each other,

and

pull the longer

end through only part

way.
Illustration

Courtesy Echo

Scarfs.

Working Wardrobe

JLhe cowboy
size,

floral. First fold the scarf into

front

style

is

made with

a square scarf of any

and can be done with anything from a small cotton bandana

and knot the ends

a triangle.

Then

in the back. This

to a big silk

place the point of the triangle in

can give a great

new

look to a simple

sweater or dress, and give another direction to your Capsule.

Illustration

Courtesy Echo

Scarfs.

The Essential Accessories

made with a square scarf and worn inside or

To make it, fold the square horizontally
becomes an oblong. Then flip the ends over one another.
JLhe jabot

is

outside collar of your blouse or dress.

so that

it

Illustration

Courtesy Echo

Scarfs.

Working Wardrobe

soft sash
It

around the waist

is

made with

can be made into a cumberbund or finished with a bow.

It

a bias scarf.

can pull together a

simple blouse and skirt or dress up a shirt and pants look. The bias scarf can
also be

made

into a

tie

or

bow and worn

at the neck.
Illustration

Courtesy Echo

Scarfs.

The

80

Essential Accessories

BELTS
If

to

scarves frame your face, then belts set off your waist and give a polished look

an

outfit.

meant

They can complete a skirt and blouse to make it look like they're
A good belt can replace an inexpensive sash that may

for each other.

come with

a dress

good quality
should

last a

you buy.

Basic belts should be one to

two inches wide, of

and though they may cost more than you

leather,

very long time.

may go

Belts, like scarves,

in

and out

they

like,

of style, but

A good dark belt in a corresponding

they can remain a staple in your wardrobe.

color to your Capsule, like black, brown, or navy, and one in wine, can be an
excellent

complement

One

of the bestsellers in

gold metal belt which works well with

Donna
is

An

your clothing Capsule.

to

the belt extra panache.

Karan, designer for

the perfect accessory for

Anne
any

Klein

&

all

interesting buckle can give

many

stores

is

the expandable

kinds of looks from a.m. to p.m.

Co. suggests that a wine snakeskin belt

whether dressy or sporty, daytime or even-

outfit,

ing.

JEWELRY

No

matter what kind of

driving a carpool, a
course,

do, whether
is

band

is

it

involves running an office or

a necessity.

and be of a simple design so that

A leather or plain gold

enough

work you

good watch

most adaptable to

to be able to afford a Rolex or

It

should run accurately, of

works with

it

all

looks.

all

If

of

your

something similar, enjoy

it!

jeweled watches, ones with diamond trim, for example, are best

you through most

evening, a dark leather

band

Some women
many pairs to

feel

naked without

give

you

that finished feeling.

in pearls, or a

combination of pearls and gold

your Capsule.

will

will take

earrings.

know

for

do. But you don't need

one in gold, and one

should give you flexibility for

Two

pairs

button, ball, or shell design, or a simple twist or small

well from morning to evening.

While

left

of the day.

go with your working wardrobe. These are the kinds of

work

clothes.

you're fortunate

hoop

styles too, that will

Working Wardrobe

On

81

a similar scale,

open

collars or plain necklines

Either a simple gold chain or pearls will usually

very delicate, or

if it is

Some women

pearls.

a heavier rope design,

it

do

sometimes need a

the trick.

filler.

The chain can be

can look great mixed with your

use pearls as their signature. Millicent Fenwick wears the

same ones every day and evening. They're

her. Esquire

magazine once did an

on what distinguished "really rich" girls. The giveaways were cashmere

sweaters and a single strand of pearls! Whether or not the pearls are real, the
article

look

is

indeed rich. Another jewelry item that helps soften your look and adds

dimension to your dressing

link style,

you need

is all

is

a bracelet.

One

classic design, like a

bangle or

for the foundation.

THE BASIC ACCESSORY WARDROBE

What's been discussed so

far are the

very basics, the essential accessories.

you're just beginning a working wardrobe, or putting together a

these are the essential accessories you'll need:

one briefcase
rings,

(if

two

new

If

Capsule,

pairs of shoes, one handbag,

needed), two belts, three scarves, a watch, two pairs of ear-

two simple necklaces, and a

bracelet. For

your evening Capsule, include

may want

one pair of evening shoes and one evening bag. You

to splurge

on

one smashing pair of evening earrings and one great necklace too.
But what about the extras, the excitement?

Herman

my

Geist,

some

of

my

favorite styles never sold well at

of the firm,
icing

think

on

and one day

designed sportswear for

all.

some

of

This didn't seem to bother the owners

asked why. "Janet," one answered, "you design the

they ooh and aah. They
Then when they go home and write up
and what they know they can sell. They

a very exciting collection.

their orders, they

may buy

When buyers come to our showroom

the cake.

we have

When

designs sold in the tens of thousands. But

just a

buy what

is

basic

few of your favorites because they won't

sell

as fast. But

The

without them

we would have

a very dull line." In the

needs the basics in their wardrobe. That's what

That's part of the Capsule Concept.

same way, everyone

we wear day

Then comes

Essential Accessories

the icing

in

and day out.

on the cake.

The following accessory charts are included to suggest how

accessories work with the Capsules detailed in Chapter 1. Like
charts, they can

preferences.

be used exactly as shown, or modified to

suit

the essential
the clothing

your needs and

Black/Red Capsule
Essential Accessories
Red
Pumps,

Shoes

slingback

Handbag

Envelope

Briefcase

Portfolio

Belts

Narrow

Scarves*

Oblong

Gold expandable
Square

Multi-stripe oblong

Watch

Gold

Earrings

pearl button

Gold button,

Necklace

Gold chain,
rope of pearls

Gold bangle

Bracelet

Brown/Gray Capsule
Essential Accessories

Navy/Wine Capsule
Essential Accessories
Navy-

Pumps

Shoes

Pumps

Handbag

Envelope

Briefcase

Portfolio

Belts

Wide

Scarves*

Oblong

Watch

Navy/wine
print,

paisley

mustard oblong

Leather band

Gold

Earrings

ball, pearl

button with gold trim

Necklace
Bracelet

Gold chain,
rope of pearls

Gold bangle
"See illustrations on ways

Ivory/Tan Capsule
Essential Accessories

Forest /Ginger Capsule

Essential Accessories

The

86

Essential Accessories

REAL PEOPLE
Accessories can
this

show

artistry in

mark

fashion techniques that

Whether you enjoy wearing

barest

minimum,

individualize

these

woman

with

style.

lots of accessories

women

women profiled in
woman needs to the

your wardrobe. The two

chapter take you from the essential elements that every

new

offer

or would rather stay with the

on how

ideas

and

to dramatize

your wardrobe.

Mona Shaker
Mona

Shaker combines Middle Eastern mystique with Western practicality.

She

a professor of English

is

Egyptian, but her style

is

and the wife

international.

of a diplomat.

With her

jet

Her nationality

is

black hair, olive skin, high

cheekbones and flashing brown eyes, she exudes drama.

"I feel

clothing

is

art,"

she told me.

She talked about some of her wearable

walls.

It's

art. "I

have one bolero that hangs on

from old Russia, a wedding present from

my

wine velvet embroidered with gold thread. Wearing

she

makes

skirt

it

the focal point of an outfit.

"I

use

it

mother.

this

is

my

made

of

with her clothes,

with a black

and a very simple white blouse. The whole focus

It's

silk

or satin

that very interest-

ing bolero."

Treating

all

of her jewelry as art as well,

Mona

is

continuously creating

new

looks from the pieces she has. She gets her ideas from magazines or by looking
at the real thing.
all,"

But then she must have quite a collection of jewelry? "Not

she promises.

don't

with." For her, basics

buy a

means

lot,

pearls

but

have a few basics that

and gold chains. "Whether

at

play around

they're pearls or

Working Wardrobe

gold,

87

make them

into chokers.

find that suits me.

Then

hang a pin from the

choker. This makes for a very dramatic look." Fortunate to have done a good
deal of traveling, she has

Most

she's been.

made

it

a point to pick

up one or two pieces wherever

them are of semi-precious

of

Whether

stones.

Turkish piece, or one that's an antique from India, she hangs

"Gold chains are

my

basic element," she said.

it

on a

it's

an old

thin chain.

Along with her necklaces, Mona

wears earrings, but makes sure these aren't too elaborate.

The other accent Mona uses

drama

lavenders.

want

a note of

and

stripe,

life,

in the winter,

she adds color, texture, and

it

neck or

is

the size

at the side,

have a

on a

St.

belts," she told

lot of

dark colors, and

it

dresses

Though

belts.

She has found that the

of the outfit."

most adaptable

to her needs.

up a

shirt

can go to a luncheon or a meeting and

She also has fun with

splurge

when

whole look

that changes the

at the

special.

and

take a scarf in a brilliant color, a bold check or strong

very long oblong scarf

bow

With

don't go for pale tones. She uses those hot colors to brighten up her

wardrobe. "Especially
I

the scarf.

is

to her clothes. "I like shooting shades," she said, "like purples

feel

and

"With a great big

skirt

and makes

it

dressed up."

she can't afford designer clothes, she can

Laurent sash or cummerbund. "You can compose a

me. So she uses them

lot

around

to set off a bolero, or pull in a chemise,

or frame a skirt.

Dressing in strong colors, with dramatic accents takes a

the

first

to admit

confides, "as

if I

it.

"If

don't

I'm not comfortable in clothes

want

to

several times before she buys,

aren't
"is

exactly right.

little
I

doing, and she's

shrink in them," she

show." She shops carefully, trying things on

and always ready

to turn

"The most important thing

knowing what looks good on me.

I've trained

I've

them down

if

they

learned," she says,

myself to say no." But once

The

88

she gets

it

home, she doesn't

stop. Instead, she has dress rehearsals, trying

jewelry, scarves, belts, shoes

and handbags, seeing what's best

"That way," she goes on,

find

ment

"I

it

always looks

for myself in every field," she says, "be

people or dressing. There

Mona

is

Essential Accessories

it

better.

on

for a total outfit.

feel there is

improve-

teaching, entertaining, meeting

always something new to learn."

Shaker: Working Capsule

Colors Beige/Black. Red/Navy.

Fabrics

Silks.

Accessories

Linens. Egyptian cottons.

One of a

kind. Semi-precious stones. Chokers. Chains. Centerpieces. Small

on one finger. Boleros. Cummerbunds. Scarves in long oblongs to
be tied, sashed or bowed.
earrings. Rings

Style Clothing as

art. International.

Key words Drama. Color.

Details.

Working Wardrobe

Dot Roberts
Small, slim, gray-haired, and perennially tanned,

woman who

Dot Roberts

an energetic

is

keeps herself and her business in great shape. She goes mountain

climbing for pleasure, but she climbed a bigger mountain

died just a few years ago. She

was

really

when

her husband

shaken when her partner

and marriage passed away. 'The most important thing

in business

in life is the ability to

change," she told me. So instead of letting herself and the business
president of Echo Scarfs, she set out to

With a consuming business and a

well-organized.
a

good

their

suit

Her approach

And

person.

it

make

life filled

to dressing

company

her

slip,

as the

bigger and better.

with constant travel, Dot's got to be

shows

works well because

She wears mostly

it.

travel so

suits,

"I'm

much." She changes

look with different blouses, which become her mainstay.

"I

think silk

blouses are the most useful thing in your wardrobe," she told me. "You can

wear them

all

But for Dot,

clothes

year long, they go with.every thing, and they always look right."

it's

the accessories that

around because

when

before what I'm going to wear. But

the scarf, the pantyhose, the shoes
faster,

and

groups.

"I

by

their clothing into clean

have

the difference. "I don't change

my

whole

closet

get

up

the bag."

she has organized her clothing

beyond sorting
in

make

my

of the time element," she says. "I never decide the night

color.

and

in the

morning,

To make

it

all

have

work

to get

better

While some people never

and
get

Dot has everything arranged

dirty,

by color and

style," she explains, "with

blouses on one side and skirts and jackets on the other, and everything going in
tones.

They hang

in the beiges, the

browns, the grays, and black.

Naturally, she's got her accessories organized too. She keeps her shoes and

handbags

all

headache.

"I

lined

up by

have a

color. But

lot of

it's

her pantyhose that used to be the biggest

pantyhose, and

now

have them by

color, too.

90

The

have black, brown, gray, taupe, and wine, and then

sheer and opaque. That

way

she makes her fashion point.

don't waste

"And

any time."

Essentia] Accessories

I've separated
It's

them

into

with her scarves that

can add color, pattern, or a new fashion

look with them too." Just back from a four day

trip to

Canada, she

said, "I

much with me, but I was able to keep changing the look of my
clothes. Some of the people I was with were always the same, but we were
meeting new people all the time at lunches and dinners, and I had to get differdidn't take

ent looks.

brought two basic

outfits of a skirt

and

jacket, in black

and

beige, a

couple of blouses and sweaters, two pairs of shoes, one bag for day and one for
evening, and eight scarves. With those scarves

cowboy look
clothes

She

to

an ascot, from a

back and

may

be

in

forth,

Canada,

and used

bow

my

Paris, Milan,

could do everything from a

to a pocket handkerchief.

worked

the

scarves as accents to create the fashion."

Hong Kong, Tokyo,

or the U.S., and she

gets her inspirations everywhere. "I love to look at people," she said. 'That's

how you

get

new

ideas

and learn what looks best on you.

With clothes being such an investment, people should plan

fully,

and buy things

that can

go from season

dynamo, 'The most important thing

your own

style.

Then you can

get

is

to get

to season."

their

Says

wardrobe care-

this clear

headed

your clothes organized and know

on with the business of

life."

Working Wardrobe

Dot Roberts: Working Capsule

Colors-

Chapter 3

THE IMAGE
OF SUCCESS
A or
move toward

the

businesswoman

working uniform. The

quickest signal of executive status.

the female secretary
tell

their

in

well be a
is

the

How does the management male distinguish

is

the easiest

the corporate uniform identifies the

own. But,

stereotype of the Girl in the

may

for the corporate world,

from the female executive? Clothing

them apart. Dressing

manager as one of

in the '80s, there

suit,

in

no way must she mimic

Gray Flannel

Suit

is

an

insult to

way

to

woman

man. The

women.

A woman

can look competent and professional without sacrificing her femininity.

an executive recruiter

who

Trisha Parson

is

their uniform.

But she stresses the importance of also looking feminine. For her

the suit distinguishes the

on

woman comes

woman

often advises her clients to slip on

with a job from the career

with jewelry, hair, and

makeup done

woman. The

just right.

stress

The Image

WHAT YOUR CLOTHING

SAYS ABOUT YOU

Clothing acts as a cue for those around us.

and remember. Knowing how

role

you want

There are
are others

It

image held by acquaintances and

reinforces the

to play

of Success

helps strangers identify us, and

friends.

It's

what people see

to use clothing to establish yourself in

first

whatever

can help win that role more quickly.

many women who are not sure of what role they want
who intentionally wear the wrong costume, and send

to play.

There

out the

wrong

message, afraid that dressing well might detract from their intellectual profile.

One male

senior partner in a law firm told

me

about a young

woman who had

entered the firm with high marks from law school and a brilliant future ahead

The only problem was

of her.
clients.

"We were

so badly.

We

that

couldn't

let

"she's

If

in the firm

"We wanted

any of our

young woman, some very good

of dress.

no one

desperate," he said.

clients

wanted

to

to introduce her to

keep her but she dressed

meet her." Fortunately for

friends took her aside

and taught her the

this

rules

Her appearance improved markedly, and says the senior partner,

now on

the suit

is

her

the

fields, there are

way

to

becoming a partner

herself."

symbol of the corporate woman, for other

other such signals. In retailing, the hierarchy

women
is

in other

established not

only by the price of one's clothes, but by the "forwardness" of their design.

While young

assistants

may wear

clothes

by

Liz Claiborne

and Jones, the

buyers they work for dress in Calvin Klein. The upper management

may show

their fashion

Missoni or Armani.

And

establishment Yves

St.

savvy by wearing such

the top echelon executives will

Laurent, Chloe, and Dior.

women

Italian designer clothes as

buy

the French fashion

Working Wardrobe

Women

95

in public life face

an even greater problem. Their image can become a

target for public scorn or envy. Certainly they

attack

by

the press

understanding of what

total

do not wish

to be

under constant

or perhaps even worse, totally ignored. They must have a

suits

them

best, plus

an eye for

detail,

they are to

if

maintain that unmistakable aura of self-confidence and public presence.

Our
not

clothing immediately establishes us in

we

are aware of

The

it.

some

whether or

sort of social order,

bright business school graduate

who went

to inter-

view for a banking position was told that her record was excellent but she
obviously did not want a job in that
at herself in the mirror.

field.

home and looked

Shocked, she went

Only then did she

realize the

kind of message she was

sending out. She had dressed for the interview in the type of outfit she often

wore, a

full

printed dirndl skirt and a soft peasant blouse.

bank had suggested she might be more

she hadn't really

fact,

wanted a job

in

at

home

banking and

ble position with a graphic arts firm in Texas.

her clothes without even knowing

If

you know what

The

role

you want

who wants to be
the women above

secretary

dressing like

to play,

wants
is

she

now

was

telling

if

own
wants

through

herself

about

herself.

to get the part.

her rather than those around her.

woman who

arts. In

holds a very responsi-

you can use clothing

if

she starts

The upper

(provided, of course, that she's

to be the

chairman

she looks like a leader.

to establish herself as financially well-off

used to wealth.

stranger from the

an executive will get there faster

better chance of getting the position

she

The

journalism or the

She had revealed

how much

echelon will identify her as one of their

capable of the work). The

in

will

have a

The woman who

can send out signals that say

The Image

96

When

Linda Silverman

made

a conscious decision to climb the corporate lad-

der, she resolved never again to

up

of Success

wear pants

to

work. "When you're trying

to get

when everybody has the

be recognized, a lot is the way you

the corporate ladder/' she told me, "there's a point

same background. When you want

project yourself.

You have

Until that time she

to

to play the part before

had dressed casually

often wearing a pair of corduroy pants

dressing for

many

of the secretaries

tion house. "I looked at the other

who was on top.

of who held what

felt

the

or sweater. That

was

typical

Madison Avenue aucat the

wore pants. You could

one

woman

really get a feeling

by what they wore."

jeans,

and

started

buying clothes that

expensive. Wearing well-made jackets and skirts in fine wools

and blouses and dresses

above

shirt

assistants at the

women around me and

So she put aside the corduroy pants and

looked and

get it."

her job as a secretary at Sotheby's,

and a

and

realized she never

job

in

you

crowd.

It

in elegant silks

immediately established her as a cut

also indicated her appreciation of

good

things.

Now,

as

head of Sotheby's contemporary department, she finds her seasonless clothes

move

easily not just

from one climate

as well as for dinners, openings,

to another, but look great during the

day

and receptions.

With a Capsule based on blues and greens, she chooses clothing that is soft
rather than hard tailored, and prefers a look that is conservative. Speaking
about her image, she says,
can't

"I

think

you represent yourself as

well as your firm.

go around talking about millions of dollars worth of paintings

have a look that says quality, and

at the

same

time,

is

if I

don't

always feminine."

97

Working Wardrobe

Clothing can signify class status, political identification, profession and rank.

As Barbara

Dickstein,

anything else
person.

No

symbol

of

The

tion."

the

for

clothing

museum

collector of twentieth century

and

specialist

Smithsonian Institution told me,

matter what the

who you

a
a

role in

life,

your

sign of nobility in seventeenth-century France

was

the use of velvet.

are.

It tells

your

status,

your

Peasants and others of the lower class were not permitted to wear
before, in

more than

"Clothing,

more than jewelry clothing represents

time frame, she went on, "clothing is always

more than furniture,

Germany, during

social posi-

it.

A century

one of the demands was to be

a peasant uprising,

allowed to wear the color red, until then permissible only for the upper

classes.

Royal blue and purple were the colors of the court throughout much of Europe.

Only

the nobility could be seen in them.

In China, the blue cotton pant suit

Nancy
some
of

Kissinger told

me when

the

symbol of the revolution. But as

pretty clothes, a pretty blouse cr earrings."

them are now wearing more

Like

became

many women,

to adapt local

women were just dying for

And in fact, more and more

she was there, 'The

colorful

and more feminine

the wife of the former Secretary of State

way

customs to her

of dress. But

on one

trip

clothes.

was

it

often tempted

backfired.

going out one night in China, in slacks, and Henry was very upset."

"You are an American," Dr. Kissinger

would

told his wife. "If

"I

you were home, you

dress for an official dinner in a long skirt or something like that.

wouldn't go around

in pants."

was

Why?
You

But defending herself, Nancy insisted that she

might indeed wear velvet slacks. But the

man who broke new ground

with the

Chinese persisted. "You are representing the female portion of the United
States," he said.

strange picture.

pyjama
realize

suit?

how

"You should look

"How would

You'd think

I'd

it

like a

gone crazy."

And

it

important the symbolism of dressing

around the world, she wears clothing made

way

westerner."

look," he asked,

"if I

was
is.

And

then he drew a

suddenly went out

that

And

in t

image that made her

in fact, in her travels

only by American designers as a

of signaling her belief in the creativity of the

American fashion industry.

98

The Image

of Success

THREE DECADES OF FASHION

If

the distinctions in clothing

still

there.

The

and

ment. The significance of what

trace the

major trends of the

signals being sent out

women

we wear can be

in suburbia,

the

seen easily

last thirty years. In

about what was happening

for

many

decade, husbands and wives were

was

obvious today, the symbols are

if

we go back and

each decade there were clear

in society in general

and

for

in particular.

The 1950s represented

home

class are less

subtle differences are needed to send messages of social align-

Man

a return to normalcy. For the

home

first

and facing the happy prospect of prosperity. The

in the

Gray

time in a

together, raising 3.2 children, buying a

role

model

Flannel Suit. For the mainstream of America, the bulk

of the middle class, success in the business

world was a

vitally

important

message to be sent out. Certain items of clothing became the acknowledged

mark of that success. For women, the status symbol was the good leather handbag. The woman who could afford an alligator pocketbook and shoes was the
walking symbol of her husband's achievements. Other luxury items took on
this

importance, namely the cashmere sweater, especially one with a mink

collar. After the years of deprivation

brought about by World

items were a sure sign of social and financial success.

his wife a

mink

stole

had obviously "made

it".

And

War

II,

luxury

The man who could buy

the

woman who had

all

of

these trappings, the alligator bag, the fine leather shoes, the cashmere sweaters

and

the

mink wraps was

the

woman who had done

well in

life.

new female identity, the "career"

woman. Many women had begun working during the war years and found that
they liked it. They enjoyed their financial independence and their personal
sense of identification. For these women, sportswear became a new symbol of
freedom. Here was an opportunity to put together a number of looks. For the
This same period also witnessed the birth of a

Working Wardrobe

first

99

time, clothes did not

Barbara Dickstein, "People

part of suits, finishing

have
like

them with

little

in

one and only one way. Said

started

making

skirts that weren't

notched details that became

their

Campbell designed separates for Sportwhirl, and Tina Lesser

signature. Jeanne

and B.H. Wragge were big names."

naling that they

worn

to be

Evan Picone

wanted

dressing. Fashion

to be free

Women who

wore

from the past and

was acknowledging

this attitude

these clothes were sigits

restrictive nature of

and providing a means

of

expression.

took a whole other turn. The beginning of the decade was

In the 1960s clothing

marked by fireworks

name

quoises,
to

of color

from a suddenly

social Italian

nobleman by the

of Emilio Pucci. His dazzling prints in swirls of shocking pinks, deep tur-

buy

dresses,

and passionate purples sent

women from

every social strata scurrying

The count could never have signed so many

but they were worn by just about every woman who wanted to show

their signature Puccis.

her fashion savvy and social status. Obviously, those

Pucci were part of the "upper class", and for the

who

could afford a real

rest, the better

the copy, the

higher one's social rank.

But as the war in Vietnam took on more importance,

show not wealth but

more important than
said Mrs. Dickstein.

it

became necessary

rather political leanings. "Clearly, clothing

in the Sixties

"You

when

it

was used

identified yourself

and

to

was never

as part of the revolution,"

who you

belonged to by the

The Image

100

way you

dressed.

The uniform

of the

you were on,"

question what side

war was

tie-dyes

and

jeans.

of Success

There was no

she explained. For the liberals, tie-dyes and

jeans were their signal of sympathy, not only to the anti-war effort but also to
"the cause" whether

so

many

the art collectors

came

was mistreated Indians or underpaid grape pickers. But

it

how

people wore jeans,

in the

from the grape pickers?

form of

The upper

T-shirt, jeans,

and

crust liberal

a blazer

distinction

still

could afford handbags

became easy

with

to recognize.

Under

the

made by

Louis

Her uniform was a

all,

a plain T-shirt left

bare.

the T-shirt lay the next stage of clothing symbols.

became

many

little

It

Gucci shoes and a Louis Vuitton bag. She

might even throw a Gucci scarf around her neck. After

one feeling a

needed to be made.

Everyone could afford Levis, but only a few

status initials.

could buy shoes from Gucci. Fewer

Vuitton.

if

could one identify the patrons from the poor,

dilemma

of

forms, but none

women

was so

in the Sixties.

clear as the

Women's

symbolism of

To

bra or not to bra

liberation could take

this piece of clothing.

Bra burning became a major event around the country, and from coast to coast

women bounced

about eager to show

their alliance

with the women's move-

ment. For some that was as far as their commitment to liberation went. But for
all it

was

a significant

way

of saying that they

would no longer be bound by

the

old rules.

While the bras were burning, the status

had come

to a point

vendors on every
ties

initials

were losing

their exclusivity.

It

where cheap copies were being hawked by sidewalk

street corner.

Something new was needed. In the early Seven-

the designers arrived. Suddenly, big stores started opening designer shops,

carrying Calvin Klein and

wear

that

was

Anne

Klein,

attractive, expensive

and others smart enough

and

to

identifiable. Bill Blass

make

sports-

and Geoffrey

Beene got the message too, and opened new divisions called respectively,
Blassport

and Beene Bag.

It

was

similar to the French going

from couture

to

Working Wardrobe

101

ready-to-wear. American designers went from dressing the ladies

clothing the career

woman.

The women who had been

whole new vehicle for

liberated in the Sixties

successful career in the Seventies.

designer clothes. Those

their

They could

who had made

it

status

now

who

lunch to

symbols arrived.

turned their eyes on a

signal their success

by wearing

could afford to spend big sums on

working wardrobes.

The Seventies ended with

the

mushrooming

fragrance.

Or

one's cosmetics.

signature of a designer

the one

for the cult of the designer. But

Many

They could be on

Or one's bed linens. Or on

became

on

the

one's behind.

back of a pair of

jeans.

one's

The

last

So much

what next?

people see jewelry as the next status symbol. Barbara Dickstein pointed

out a recent cartoon showing a mother observing her daughter in a

jeans. "Darling," asks the mother, "don't

jewelry so people don't get the

wrong

shirt

now. One woman,

idea?".

Elsa Peretti, has already

most important people

in twentieth

with a very contemporary

The Fashion magazines have been

become

Belts

may

be

established as one of the

century jewelry, working in the

flair.

and

you think you should wear some gold

doing feature spreads on up and coming jewelry designers. Their time

silver,

No

of designer merchandise.

longer did the labels appear only on expensive clothing.

medium

of

by Barry Kieselstein-Cord, made

with buckles of sculptured silver or bronze, are already an important status

symbol. Paloma Picasso, daughter of

jewelry for Tiffany's.

this century's

famous

artist, is

designing

The Image

102

of Success

THE PROBLEM
Anne

P.

wore

dresses.

work.

When

had grown up

and she enjoyed wearing dresses

similar,

to

New
The women who

her firm promoted her and sent her to their main office in

York, she found herself

worked with her dressed

a certain

women

southern town where most of the

in a small

Her wardrobe was

amount

in a

in

very different atmosphere.

much more

tailored clothes,

and they eyed her with

of distrust. In order to establish her

authority, she found that she

had

to

change her

way

own

credibility

and

of dressing.

THE SOLUTION
Most

of the dresses

in pastel colors.

colors,

Anne had worn

We found

and we could

around navy and

still

stronger look

when wearing darker

To

tan, she selected variations of the shirtdress.

silk,

tan geometric print. She already

of these dresses as well as

a tan and white striped

silk,

had a navy cardigan jacket

start,

Anne

and a navy and

that could

go over

one or two she had from the south. Later on she

added a navy and white checked

tan jacket

much

keep her Capsule to dresses as she preferred. Working

bought three dresses, a navy

any

south were in floral prints and often

in the

she had a

dress.

which came with the new

With

dress.

all

Anne

of these she could also

still

could

feel

wear a

comfortable

in

her dresses, but she established an air of authority and assertiveness. Her in-

vestment

in dressing

came

to $320.

Navy/Tan Dress Capsule

Navy

A.

Jacket

B.

Jacket

Dress

D.

Dress

E.

Dress

F.

Dress

Small print
Shirtdress

Accessories

Shoes

Navy Tan

Accents

Will

work with

The Image

of Success

THE PROBLEM
Carolyn G. was a teacher
ings,

who had spoken

and had become involved

found

herself being

promoted

out at several school board meet-

in local political issues.

After two years, she

as a candidate for the state assembly.

The

idea

appealed to her and she decided to actively campaign. But her classroom
clothes

were more appropriate for the after-school program than for

dinner speeches. She had very

little

money

to spend, but

after-

needed clothes that

would upgrade her image. Her opponent, a very rich businessman, had an attractive wife whose good looks and pretty clothes often drew the cameras.
Somehow Carolyn had to get the focus of attention on herself but still remain a
serious candidate.

THE SOLUTION
Carolyn was most comfortable

in skirts

and

jackets.

Capsule based on navy and red. She bought two

red. Either jacket could

go with

one navy, and the other two

were the four

silk

red, yellow, green

either skirt.

in white.

suits,

We

worked out

one

in

Then she

But what

made

a small

navy, the other

in

selected three blouses,

her wardrobe

come

to life

scarves she bought, each in a very bright color. She chose

and purple, and wore a

campaigning. The hot colors worn

different

at her neck,

one each time she went out

caught the attention of her

audience, and at the same time, her jacket and skirt gave her the serious, sincere

image she wanted.

Navy/Red Image Capsule

Navy

A.

Jacket

B.

Jacket

Red

Will

work with

Both jackets

make suit with

Navy jacket
will

Skirt

Both lackets

D.

Dress

E.

Blouse

F.

Dress

G.

Blouse

will

Accessories

Shoes

make

Red jacket

suit

with

The Image

106

of Success

THE CAPSULE APPROACH TO SUCCESSFUL DRESSING

Women need not resign

themselves to the idea of bland uniform dressing. With

not only jewelry, but scarves, belts, handbags and shoes, a suit or dress can
take

on

different looks

and moods.

quote from investment banker,

No woman

should lose her femininity.

Mary DiGiacomo,

"Femininity

is

my

To

greatest

asset."

how you put yourself

The Capsule Concept can help enormously because it creates an
organized wardrobe for you. With quality clothing and accessories, you don't

To

look feminine and successful you must be aware of

together.

need a

lot of

items in your closet to look successful. Using just two colors and

pieces that interrelate, dressing can be almost effortless yet bring

compliments. With the Capsule approach you will be dressing

manner and sending out a

To

see just

page.

how

you

lots of

in a professional

signal of self-assurance.

strong your signal

is,

take the Image Quiz on the following

Image

Profile

The Image

qo

of Success

REAL PEOPLE
As

how
cult

most

their careers climb,

upgrading

it

to

meet that of

women

their

new

find a need to change their image,

The women

peers.

they have developed their image. For them

problem. They are

Both of these

important

to study themselves

best. In this chapter

successful image,

diffi-

in the public eye.

women know how

have taken the time

them

women

chapter discuss

in this

has been a particularly

it

it is

to project the right image,

and learn what kinds

and

of clothing suit

each of them talks about what goes into achieving a

one that pleases them and the public too.

Nancy Reagan
Nancy Reagan may have played the role of the girl next door in the movies, but
she's always made sure that that isn't really her image. You never would have
seen her running next door in her bathrobe to borrow a cup of sugar. "Even
then," she told me, her eyes opening wide, "they didn't want you to come out
with curlers

in

daughter of an
aura of

your

money and

the direction of the

who

sets the

Not

hair."

Illinois

class.

And

if

would have anyway. As

drama student

one were to suggest that her

movie moguls

at

MGM,

the debutante

at Smith, she lived in

style

an

came from

she takes offense. "You're the one

tone for yourself," she says, "nobody else does."

With her contained manner,

large wide-set eyes, she

she wore a

that she

doctor, and as a

fits

gray and brown

regal bearing, size six figure, high

right into the role of First

paisley blouse, a gray

cheekbones and

Lady. The day

wool

we

talked

dirndl skirt, simple gold

button earrings, a gold link bracelet on each arm, and a gold necklace. Her
hair, softly streaked in

makeup was

faint,

shades of honey and gold, was perfectly in place. Her

with

just

understated, well groomed, and

a touch of lipstick.
all in

good

taste.

Her

overall

look was

Working Wardrobe

She

feels that

109

woman

any

can develop good taste and a distinctive

rounded by Beverly

Hills luxury or

style.

woman who isn't

Madison Avenue chic? "Any woman

'That's just exposure," she told me. But

what about

the

sursees

magazines and goes to movies," she maintained, and those are

be observant. Like

what

is

new, what

Then she adapts

What

women

all
is

attractive,

to her

it

own

just two ways to

Nancy Reagan keeps her eyes alert for
and what is happening in the fashion world.

of style,

personal look.

sort of advice does the First

Lady have for

out or having trouble finding her

own

"Get a three-way mirror and look

at yourself

"if in

doubt whether

it's

the

woman who is just starting

look? With great conviction she

too much, take

it

from

all

sides."

tell

her not to follow fads.

or the latest fashion gimmick

in her voice, she
kill

me

make

woman who
may be, she adds, "I
who are slaves to fashion

think that people

a big mistake."

it

With an edge

of indignation

goes on, "During the miniskirt phase, in the 1960s,

women

to see older

in miniskirts.

states,

for accessories,

off," she says. For the

tends to follow every fashion trend, no matter what

would

As

It

it

used to

looked ridiculous." With the

just

confidence that comes from success, she says, "There's a certain charm and

beauty to any age

if

One would assume

endless

amounts of

you

dress that age."

that style

comes

clothing. But

better. "I don't like a lot of frills

easily to a

Nancy Reagan
and

woman who

has seemingly

suggests that she feels less

fusses," she told

me. "Anything

is

that's

simple works for me."

If

Nancy Reagan always looks

things nice
a lot of

and simple. "I'm

makeup."

In the

husband, she found that

well groomed, she claims

really basically a

days when she traveled a

it

it's

because she keeps

soap-and-water
lot,

girl.

don't

wear

campaigning for her

helped to keep things pared down. "Everything's a

problem for you during the campaign, because

there's not

enough

time.

You

The Image

110

were lucky

if

you could get back

to

wash your

of Success

face," she says shaking her head.

For her the solution lay in a working wardrobe of knits. 'The knit suits were so

marvelous," she exclaimed, "because they didn't wrinkle.

with them.

never had to bother

could put them on early in the morning and go

When Nancy Reagan

adds to her wardrobe,

it's

all

day and night."

always with a thought to the

clothes hanging in her closet. "I

am

not one

beginning of a season and starts

all

over again. And," she adds,

anyone can afford

to."

Her wardrobe

things a long time." she revealed.

is

who

"I

a mix of old and new.

my

have

"I

throws everything out

"I

hang onto

gown

second inaugural

Sacramento, and that goes back a long way. In fact," she continued,
still

even have

How
mix

my

first

one

if

they hadn't torn

does she manage to update outfits that

my

it

off

my

"I'll

the

when

the old favorites

new? 'That's when you

no longer look

right

skirt

confesses, "I'm not crazy about shopping.

my friends do,

shop

all

day and stand

with

there a

even when they're mixed with

all

like clothes

day

like

but

for fittings.

many women
can't

don't

want

do what a

she
lot

That would be very

boring." Her approach to shopping reflects her general attitude.

want pretty quickly, and

Is

get rid of them," she says adamantly.

Although Nancy Reagan has always enjoyed clothes,

of

in

might

five or six years? "I

mix an Adolf o

another blouse or jacket, switch things around with different outfits."

point

"I

back."

may go back

clothes around," she says proudly.

at the

don't think

to waste a lot of time."

"I

know what

Working Wardrobe

111

Whatever she purchases

own

image.

As

rage, she laughs

own

for herself,

to the notion of other

and

Nancy Reagan makes

women

says, "I'd be flattered. But

particular style, what's

good

for you,

sure that

it

adopting her look because

I

think

and go with

you have

Fabrics

is

that."

her favorite, day or night. Also likes black and white for evening.

Wools,

silks.

Lots of knits.

Accessories Always simple: earrings, bracelet, necklace.

Style Understated. Classic

Key words Elegant.

clothes. Distinctly feminine.

Tasteful.

it's

to find

Nancy Reagan: Image Capsule

Colors Red

fits

her
the

your

The Image

112

of Success

Maureen Kindel
Maureen Kindel sends out
the

woman

first

work with

It isn't

her.

Los Angeles to hold

this job," she told

am

"I

me. So

Board of Public Works had her photograph taken wearing

the President of the

a hard hat.

a strong message in her picture at City Hall.

in the history of

an image that most people

She

is

on the boards of

also

foundations from California to

New York

like, particularly the

civic organizations

men who

and private

and Washington, D.C. For

her, the

trappings of achievement are as important as the accomplishments themselves

because they relay her status to the

What

good jewelry," she says

are the trappings? "Wearing

tant." For her jewelry

power,

that's

where a

is

rest of society.

an investment

woman

symbol of money, and money

in her

between an expensive designer

for the latter. "Find a

front of

money on

good

like a

is

on

the

how one

what our
their

same

translates

feels

and a piece of good jewelry, she

it is

tool, "It

is

extremely important for

If

to."

Even

justified. "It is a

you

me

to

power," says Maureen. "Achievement and power are

up

In fact, she says, because of the

buy."

right out in

wives of the other board members." That, to me,

if

the

mink coat takes

matter of priorities.

back because that promotes them. They should not

terrific

it

quick flash of success.

level as the

society looks

come, she

suit

a tiger's eye or other semi-precious necklace." She

She sees fur as an excellent signaling

dress

is

facsimile of the suit," she suggests, "and

buying good handbags, because "you can put

somebody,"

impor-

symbol of success and achievement." Given

the choice

also believes in

"is terribly

future. "I think in terms of

should spend her money. Because jewelry

is

would opt

use the remaining

own

power

can't afford

good

feel guilty

of that message, "I think a

mink, pick a

less

bite of her in-

Women must put

expensive

it

on

about that."

mink coat

is

fur, she suggests,

Working Wardrobe

113

but definitely pick a fur. At the same time, she

when

it is

Out

appropriate.

and only she knows that

it

in the field she

is

is

careful to

more

is

wear her coat only

likely to

wear a

raincoat,

lined with fur.

This hard hat commissioner takes her femininity very seriously. She dresses in
rather

soft,

than

my

dress,

my

tailored

strictly

luxurious fabrics.

"I

want

to

clothes,

never wears pants, and loves

remind people that

demeanor, and by

my

am

feminine, continually,

actions," she says.

If

she

is

woman

by

with

strong convictions, she has found that this comes through loud and clear to
others.

"When I am in

on too strong.

It is

a group of

women,

I've

been told

a negative, this strength that

she feels she can tone

down

that image. "I

have

many

project."

times that

By dressing

come
softly

to use clothes to reinforce

my

feminine side."

How

does she dress to look soft but self-assured?

If

she wears

suits,

which she

does "because they are convenient," she says she would "always wear a very
feminine blouse and very good jewelry." Her favorite designers are not the

well-known, high-priced ones.

clothes," she concedes.

have a prejudice against very expensive

"I

The day we talked she wore

a black

and white polka dot

pleated skirt and blouse with a red cardigan sweater. This sweater look

she has

come

to enjoy even

more than

the perfect kind of outfit," she says. "I can

and when
is

wear

with

it

this skirt

it

wear the blouse with other

one
is

things,

looks like a dress." Her other favorite outfit

a "Calvin Klein black skirt, candlelight blouse,

wonderful look.

is

the typical suit jacket or blazer. 'This

think that a lot of

women

and black sweater,

will find out

what

l>'s

a great pleasure

sweaters are to wear," she says, obviously enjoying the softness in both look

and

feel.

Maureen Kindel has obviously given

sends out. "There

am

is

way

really tired of seeing

a great deal of thought to the signals she

to look elegant, classy,

women

in

and powerful," she

states. "I

gray flannel uniforms." Though she

is

the

The Image

114

first

woman

terms.

to hold her job, she

"I feel

feminine,

am

wants no one to think of her

feminine, and

want

in

of Success

masculine

to be feminine in the

most

way."

positive

Maureen Kindel: Image Capsule

Colors

Black/White with accents of Red

Fabrics

The luxury

Accessories

Only

touch: Silk, Cashmere, Fur.

the best. Precious or semi-precious stones. Expensive bags

and expen-

sive shoes.

Style Knows where

she's going

and what she wants. Uses her clothes

strengthen her success.

Key words Determined.

Successful. Feminine.

to soften her image,

Chapter 4

THE EVENING
CAPSULE
I

,f

clothes are for fantasy

after a

daytime clothes are for the serious side of

and fun.

life,

evening

A sensational evening outfit can be a great

lift

hard day at work, a chance for frivolity after the restrictions of more

tailored clothes. But

your evening clothes can also be well organized so that

again you can have flexibility in your wardrobe.

The Capsule Concept can be

easily extended into the evening.

THE EVENING LOOK WITH SEPARATES

With

just five pieces

of pants

you can

create

many

and two dressy tops can be the

Naturally, these pieces should be

looks.

A dressy jacket,

a skirt, a pair

basis of a successful evening Capsule.

worked around two compatible

colors

for

example, one capsule could be composed of burgundy and winter white.

The

focal point for after five can be

the capsule,

it

will

work with your

an evening jacket. As an

skirt

and your pants.

If

essential part of

the evening colors

The Evening Capsule

118

are related to the colors in

work with some

may

jacket

be

in

burgundy,

shape, of course, must

works

generally

your daytime capsule, your evening jacket may

of those pieces, too. In the color plan we've chosen, your

in a dressy fabric

work with

best. In this Capsule, we'll use a

Teamed with your pants

this outfit

silk,

or satin.

The

burgundy velvet cardigan.

can look very attractive, whether for din-

ner, dancing, or to a party with friends.

in silk,

such as velvet,

the other pieces; a simple cardigan style

The pants can be

in

burgundy or white,

wool, or crepe, or they can be in burgundy velvet. Although the dressier

fabrics will

have a decidedly evening look, trousers

used for day as well as night and

may

wool, of course, can be

in

be more practical for your needs. For

this

evening Capsule, we'll include trousers in white wool crepe.

On
be

other occasions,
in

any

fabric

you might wear your

from wool

you do not enjoy wearing

one

in

to

jacket with

pants,

you might choose two

burgundy velvet (which could give you a

jacket), the other in

Your

skirt.

and here

skirt

can

suit

we'll

If

your capsule,

skirts for

look with a matching

white wool, for a very different look. Either one

effective combination,

To work

your

matching velvet, winter white or burgundy.

is

a very

choose burgundy wool crepe for the

skirt.

with these pieces, you will need two dressy tops. They could be two

blouses or a sweater and a blouse. For the evening, fabrics such as

silk, satin,

or

georgette have a special appeal. While your blouse can be as tailored as a shirt,
it

can also be as romantic as a ruffled poet's blouse. For color, white or cream

will give
\

'ell

you

the greatest adaptability.

with a tweed

skirt

second top might be another blouse

very

soft,

or

more dramatic

(as for

it

ruffled white silk shirt can

can with velvet pants

perhaps more

tailored

example, one that

might prefer an evening sweater, one

trimmed

during the day as

that's

is

if

work as
Your

at night.

the

first

one

shot with lurex).

beaded, embroidered, or

is

You

glitter

Working Wardrobe

119

Another approach

to

an evening Capsule

such as copper and navy. Using pants

you can

is

in

on which

and a

strong colors,

skirt in

copper

same copper, the other

in

may want

to

Two

of

them could be

the basic founda-

totally different

silk tunics,

for a really dramatic effect.

have two very

different tops,

the other a striped sweater. For the third top,

worn with

become

one

in

navy. They can be teamed with the matching bot-

toms or worn with the opposite color

hand, you

skirt will

silk,

away

to build different looks.

Three tops can complete the picture.

the

silk

create a totally different feeling for evening, getting even further

from your daytime dressing. The pants and

tion

work around two

to

navy

On

the other

one a tunic blouse, and

you might choose something

for example, an ivory ruffled shirt or a lace blouse that can be

the pants as well as with the skirt.

The Evening Capsule

120

THE PROBLEM
Liz A.

worked

went on dates
in her office

for a large advertising agency in their

directly

office.

She often

dressed very casually during the day, mostly in pants with just a

blouse or sweater.

went out

midtown

from work, going out for drinks or dinner. The women

Many

in the evening.

of

them

not usually possible for her to go

more dressed up

lived

nearby and could change before they

But Liz lived nearly an hour away by train and

in the evening,

home
but

first

still

it

was

before a date. She wanted to look

be casual during the day.

THE SOLUTION
Liz

had several pairs

and wine trousers

wool

skirt.

We

in

of pants that she

wore

to

work, including navy trousers

wool, plus some corduroys and jeans. She also had a navy

built a

Capsule around navy and wine and decided to save the

corduroys and jeans for the week-ends. Wearing solid color blouses and low
heeled shoes she could be very comfortable in the office. But
in her

pretty silk scarves, she could dress

up her blouse and pants

look more special for her dates.

we found

that

by

desk drawer, along with one or two

keeping a pair of navy slingbacks

for the evening

and

Navy /Wine Working Capsule

Navy

A.

Jacket

B.

Pants

c.

Skirt

D.

Sweater

E.

Blouse

F.

Pants

G.

Blouse

H.

Blouse

Accessories

Shoes

Will

work with

All shirts

and

All shirts

and sweater

All pants

and

skirt

All pants

and

skirt

AJ! pants

and

skirt

The Evening Capsule

122

THE PROBLEM
Her job demanded a
work and the ability to get around to places very fast. In
fact, her working uniform was jeans, a sweatshirt and sneakers. But her
husband, who was a publicity agent, often had to entertain clients in the

Sandy

L.

worked

as a producer for a television station.

great deal of physical

evening and wanted Sandy to be with him.

Many

and

of the dinners

parties

they went to were very dressy. Sandy didn't want to spend a lot of time think-

what

ing about

time, the other

wanted

to

wear when she rushed home

women usually went

to look

good

at night to change.

At the same

to great trouble to look terrific,

too. In fact, she enjoyed dressing

and Sandy

up and looking very

feminine in the evening as opposed to her daytime jeans.

THE SOLUTION

We

planned an evening Capsule around black and white separates, with three

bottom

pieces that could get a lot of mileage. These

long black velvet

skirt,

Then she bought two

were a black

jackets,

one

in black velvet, the other a

sweater with gold lurex trim. She had four tops, a white ruffled
a black silk
silk tunic

top and a black sweater.

went from casually dressy

wardrobe.

white chenille
silk

blouse and

neck blouse which she already owned, and she bought a white

Any

with any of the bottoms. The thirty

pieces

silk skirt, a

which she already had, and a pair of black crepe pants.

six

of the tops

and

jackets could be

worn

combinations created from these nine

to formal black

tie,

a complete evening

Black/White Evening Capsule

Black

A.

Jacket

B.

Jackets

c.

Skirt

D.

Skirt

E.

Pants

F.

Blouse

G.

Blouse

H.

Blouse

I.

Sweater

White

Will

work with

All skirts

and pants

All skirts

and pants

All jackets, blouses

All iackets, blouses

All jackets, blouses

Accessories

Shoes

All skirts

and pants

All skirts

and pants

All skirts

and

All skirts

and pants

The Evening Capsule

124

THE DRESS-AND-JACKET LOOK

If

you

prefer dresses to separates, the Capsule

is

as workable for evening as

blue would

might

make an

select a

the dresses

it is

pick.

The

and

well.

Here

approach

for daytime. For this Capsule, black

and royal

dress

interesting combination. Beginning with the jacket,

black velvet jacket

you

Concept applies as

jacket

again, a dressy jacket can be an important item.

in

a cardigan style.

It

you

should work with any of

A black crepe dress with a simple neckline can be worn for

many

occasions from the most low-keyed dinner to the most sophisticated

party.

second dress

might be

in royal blue silk

in a shirt style or

might have a

can be equally effective. This dress

bow

neck.

A third dress in black velvet

can be deliciously dramatic.

What about mixing

and two

can be the basic components: a dress, a

tops. This time we'll

could be

in

gold

neckline.

The

may add

an evening

may

and separates for your evening Capsule?

dresses

case, again, five pieces

silk, in

skirt

brown
suit

work with brown and

a shirt style, with a

might be

in

brown

velvet.

velvet jacket that can be

look with the

skirt.

Two

The

skirt

dress

you choose

worn with the silk dress and create

worn with the skirt. One

tops can be

be a white blouse, in a dressy fabric such as

The other top could be

The

In this

a jacket,

bow neck, or just a simple jewel

To work with either of these you

silk, satin,

blouse can be in a soft, very feminine style or you

shirt style.

gold.

skirt,

a sweater

may

or georgette. This

prefer a

one in gold lurex,

more

tailored

for example.

and tops can be worn with or without the jacket for very

different

effects.

ACCESSORIZING YOUR EVENING CAPSULE

It is

accessories that often

make

the dramatic difference

between a daytime and

an evening look. The same dress worn toned down for day can look smashing

Working Wardrobe

125

when teamed with

at night

evening shoes

may

kidskin such as a

you need

the right shoes, belt, jewelry, or scarf.

know

you'll

may

it

even

slide into

tartan taffeta

innocent.

looks. Black

bow

soft

bow

As with your

office.

A glittery scarf can add

A

Scarves and belts can add dazzle to the simplest outfit.

and a

is all

your briefcase for occasions when you

be going out straight from the

a glamorous touch,

one

can be as simple as a small quilted bag with a

it

shoulder chain or as different as a hand-sized sculptured box.

daytime purse,

pair of

in a dressy

all

your Capsule, and

for

One

you need. They can be in suede, in silk or

metallic. The same applies for an evening purse
be

in bright silk

can add a dash of drama.

or a velvet ribbon tied under the collar can look beguilingly

gold belt or one in black suede can give a number of different

wool pants worn with a white

give a very tailored, understated look.

cumberbund and a

silk shirt

Team

that

and a gold

leather belt will

same

and pants with

and you have spiced

velvet jacket

shirt
it

with a flavor of

flamenco.

One

set of

evening jewelry

include the

you need

is all

same pieces you use during

bracelet, earrings,

and pearls can stay

to start off

the day.

the same. But

something special for the evening, perhaps a

fabulous

Several years ago

time, the price

some thought,

it

came

may

you might want

to

add

glittery pair of earrings or a

across a wonderful pearl necklace

seemed outrageous,
I

was.

strand after strand

end with a large rhinestone studded

sixty-five dollars for

tassle.

it

draws, reminds

me

At the

costume jewelry. After

decided to splurge. The dozens of times I've worn

and the endless compliments

really

It

your watch,

set of pearls.

of pearls, finished at either

lace,

your Capsule.

Certainly,

so often

this

neck-

what a bargain

The Evening Capsule

126

A pair of fabulous fake earrings

successful.

what

Done

in gold

from Kenneth Jay Lane proved

work with everything from

usually paid for earrings. But they

suit to a ball

The joy

gown, and

it

doesn't matter

of evening clothes

is

Sometimes one outrageous item

the basis of

versatile

that

if

and

two

distinctive.

charts,

they're real or not

you can be

and

it

and

it

a dinner

they look great.

as dramatic as

you

doesn't have to be expensive

an evening Capsule. Combine

gested in the following

to be equally

with pave rhinestones, they too cost far more than

dare.

can be

with complementary pieces, as sug-

you'll

have an evening wardrobe that

is

Burgundy /Winter White Evening Capsule

Burgundy

A.

Jacket

B.

Skirt

Winter White

Accents

Will

lackel

Pants

D.

Blouse

E.

Sweater

Accessories

Shoes

work with

blouse,

and

Evening Capsule
Black /Royal Blue

Copper/Navy Evening Capsule

Copper

A.

Skirt

B.

Pants

i*

Will

work with

Both blouses and

Both blouses and

Blouse

D.

Navy

Blouse

Sweater

Accessories

Shoes

Brown /Gold Evening Capsule

Working Wardrobe

131

REAL PEOPLE
There are

lifestyles that

daytime one. The two

sules to

work from morning

women have

Both

demand

women

as

much from an evening wardrobe

in this

from a

to night.

solid suggestions

around favorite colors and

as

chapter must juggle their clothing Cap-

on building an evening Capsule, working

selecting styles that last for a long time.

Lenore Benson
Lenore Benson travels around the country giving fashion shows and seminars

on

the latest looks. She'll

tell

you

the biggest trends, what's in, what's out,

what's coming. But as for herself, she says,

can't.

She's the
at a

me

But for

"I

don't

woman in charge of promotions for

it

and

to look outdated.

being trendy doesn't work."

Vogue, the one you're likely to see

major store giving fashion ideas and advice

Lenore makes

want

clear that

it's

style,

more than

to

anyone who wants

fashion, that

makes

it.

But

woman

attractive.

Round
plump.
teen.

and a peaches and cream complex-

faced, with ginger hair, green eyes,

Lenore has learned her

ion,

just

My

own

look, set her

always have a weight problem.

strongest assets are

my

hair, skin,

own

style. "I'm five foot six

wear a

size

and

twelve or a size four-

and eyes, so

like to use those

colors.

"In these days of

lot better

my

if

closet,

you

and

components, with

see that everything

things out easily

all

of the pieces that

stay within a color palette.

is

in the

It

makes

it

work

If I

same general color range,

and make them go together."

you do a

for you,

a lot easier.

look

in

can pull

132

The Evening Capsule

This fashion professional has

made

color her signature.

used to be

"I

a peach lady," she says, referring to her years at Mademoiselle.

introduced shades of tobacco to

in

work with

known

the peaches. Lately, she has brought

black and ivory, another combination that can use peach accents.

How does Lenore make her wardrobe work for her? With a work day

that often

extends into the night, she's got to have clothes that are versatile. The day
talked she

was making an overnight

and pleasure

at a farewell

store to another.

have time

and

shirt

She had

trip to Philadelphia,

day

move well from day

to night. This

be fine." But she also wasn't taking

return trip

home. She

it

on the other

right to

told me,

side

work. At

"I

I'll

separates from

silk

silk jacket, skirt,

when I go out to dinner my

much clothing with her for the

deliberately

wore

tomorrow morning when

least

one

wouldn't

evening

outfit will

wear

at the office, but she

combination of tobacco and peach. "This

in a

we

combining business

who was moving from

party for a good friend

to be dressed for a

change before the party. She was wearing

to

Calvin Klein

go

as

Then she

feel like I've

can

the train

and

a jacket that reverses.

come back on

got something different on." She

keeps her baggage to a minimum. As for carrying her personal things, she says,

"My makeup and jewelry and some work I have to do

woven straw bag that use as my summer briefcase."

are

all

packed

in this

In

an industry where parties are serious business, an evening wardrobe

tial.

at

"In this business there are a lot of

some

big event,

demands on you

from a cocktail party

found a solution. "In recent years

I've

to

appear

in the

is

essen-

evening

to a charity dinner." But Lenore has

been going to black

tie

functions in

simple black dresses and changing the jewelry." Black makes a striking contrast against

her pale skin, and that look has brought her

"Suddenly people started saying,

'gee,

been so pleased with the response,

too.

you

really look

she's started

buying

many

good
it

compliments.

in black.'" She's

for her

day

clothes,

Working Wardrobe

As

133

women

problem that many

for a

balance her act.

"I

says Lenore, "so

can manipulate

it,

With her simple

carry a

leather

little

clothes,

isn't

it

She finds she can

still

the other hand," she says,

But

it

isn't

"I

surprising that jewelry

ambers and

corals,

when we buy

come

That way

strap.

is

a special love.

clothes," she says.

across."

Day

Her

new

"On

black things.

good gold."

Not only because

means women have

"We must

think

of the cost but

to think

more about

or night, Lenore Benson comes across as a

woman

with good fashion sense.

Lenore Benson: Evening Capsule

Colors

Tobacco /Peach.
own

Fabrics

Silks.

Black/Cream. Stays mostly with shades that complement her

and cream skin.

coloring: red hair, green eyes, peaches

Knits.

Natural

fibers.

Lightweight fabrics that can be layered. Likes

Reversibles.

Accessories

Enjoys wearing

jewelry and collecting

Victorian pieces. Gold.

Style

Smart

but not trendy. Earthy.

Key words Style.

go with the same color

use the ambers with her

find myself investing in

also because of the effect. "Visability

they

at cocktail parties,"

only jewelry that she sees as a long term investment.

investment

how

way

bag with a shoulder

shake a hand, and hold a drink."

favorite pieces of carnelians,

palettes.

face at cocktail parties, she has learned to

think a huge handbag gets in the

Ease. Energy. Robust.

it,

especially

ambers and carnelians.

The Evening Capsule

134

Susan Samuels

When
her

Susan Samuels was

life

eons to frequent black

lot of

in Sierra

Leone as wife of the American Ambassador

involved a blending of cultures and constant entertaining, from lunchtie

dinners. 'As an ambassador's wife,

long things," she says.

to dinner

tended to wear a
she

about four nights a week, but they are not as formal.

things for a very long time," she explained "and

cut the

Now that she is back in the States,

hems

of

my

long gowns.

As Executive Producer

Now

when

came home,

to
I

keep

simply

they're perfect as dinner dresses."

for Living Theater, the national outreach

Arena Stage, one of the country's

goes out

still

"I like

company

of

oldest resident theater companies, she has

helped raise hundreds of thousands of dollars.

"We go

to everything

from

theater openings to embassy dinner parties to casual evenings with friends."

The people

are as varied as theatrical producers,

ambassadors, and

art dealers.

About seventy percent

business leaders,

of these functions call for

dressy clothes, twenty percent are definitely casual, and another ten percent are

black

tie.

Except for the occasional charity ball which requires an evening gown, Susan

works around an evening Capsule

figure, she

black lace dress by

suit

bought

Named

with a simple
I

Bill

Blass (bought

at a theatrical auction.

in Streetcar

top that

of black

silk

Desire.

blouse.

wear with

it.

It is

On

one

in

on

"The

sale at
suit

Lord

&

tiny size-four

Taylor), to a white silk

was designed

extraordinarily useful.

the other hand,

That makes

include a black silk skirt, a soft white

trousers,

and white. With her

can make great buys. In her Capsule, the pieces go from a short

it

It

for Blanche

have a plum colored halter wrap

very dressy." Her other basic pieces

silk skirt,

and two pairs of

silk

black and one in white. Several dressy sweaters

black sweater set shot with

silver,

Du Bois
down

can be toned

and a striped lurex

gabardine

including a

set in silver,

gold and

Working Wardrobe

work with the various skirts and pants.

bronze
silk

135

In addition, she also has

some

blouses for variety.

Much

of her evening

Susan says,

wardrobe can be worn

can wear

"I

my

for daytime, too. For example,

black skirt with a simple white

meeting during the day, come home, take off the

pumps and switch

for the evening."

to the sweaters

She adds, "A

silk

silk shirt for a

blouse and black leather

and dressy shoes. Then I'm ready

lot of

what

do

to

go out

based on separates for day

is

and night."

Changing her accessories

is

often the

way

she transforms an outfit from a

daytime to an evening look. "Shoes are what often change a wardrobe for even-

She has three pair of dressy pumps, one

ing," she says.

and one

in

black suede. She feels that jewelry

evening. "During the day

evening

is

usually wear just small gold

have a number of good earrings

in gold,

one

in silver,

also very important for the

to accent

hoop

earrings. But for

whatever I'm wearing.

like

rings at night, too, but never in the day."

Not too long ago Susan gave

a dinner for thirty people, including several

ambassadors, well-known journalists, and

most

of the

political leaders.

move around the kitchen, she also wanted to appear

What did she wear? "I wanted to wear pants so that
around

easily.

used

my white flannel

trousers that

daytime or evening, and dressed them up with

gold kid
off

Although she did

cooking herself and needed to be dressed comfortably enough to

pumps were

as an elegant hostess.
I

could bend and get

wear winter and summer,

my striped lurex sweater set. My

perfect to carry through the dressy look,

with gold earrings and a gold kid belt." Though,

in fact,

and

finished

it

most of the pieces

136

The Evening Capsule

could have been

special

worn during

evening look.

"I

the day,

compliments," Susan says, "and

easy,

and

felt

it

was

the gold shoes that gave her a

remember when I received so many

think it may have been because it was all so

don't

so comfortable in

my

clothes."

Susan Samuels: Evening Capsule

Colors Black/White.
Fabrics Silk gabardine. Wool crepe. Wool flannel. Silk crepe. Touches of metallics. Likes
fabrics that can be worn year round, that move easily from day to night.
Accessories

Counts

on them for drama at night. Feels shoes make the biggest change.
Lots of different earrings for evening; rings, too. Likes flowing scarves, dressy
belts.

Style

Depends

on separates for

Key words Drama.

lots of looks.

Glitter. Theatrical

without theatrics.

Chapter 5

THE TRAVEL
CAPSULE:

L/ome people go away for a weekend and look as

they'll

if

be gone for a month. Others can go from London to Luxor for three weeks with

one suitcase and an overnight bag.

take and

what

Capsules are

two

to leave behind, plus

all

more

to select the

Capsule pieces, what to

out the best from your different

important parts of the travel picture. With the right clothing,

pairs of shoes can

take

How

how to pull

shirts

do where four might otherwise be needed

and fewer

skirts,

smashing piece of jewelry instead of a second evening

travel well

from hot climates

wringing wet

better travelmates than

filled

to cold.

in the desert. Silks

coat can keep

Others

may

toasty

warm when

outfit.

Some

some

fabrics

be drip dry but leaving you

and lightweight wools

any shade of polyester.

you

or you might

a sweater rather than a jacket, or

On

in cool colors

can be

the other hand, one

the only heat

from a campfire. That same quilted coat can look as chic

you have

is

down

coming

in Paris as in Peru.

The Travel Capsule

140

THINK BEFORE YOU PACK

become a standard part of the working woman's life. What
and even more important, what do you leave at home?
questions must be answered. Where are you going? How long

Business trips have

do you take with you

First, the

will

basic

you be

there?

And what

will

Some newspapers (such as the

from

cities

all

you be doing? What

New York

over the U.S.

will the

weather be

like?

Times) give a smattering of reports

and around the world.

Some

television

rundown on weather conditions across the country. If

these are not helpful, call ahead. By telephoning Information in any U.S. city
(using the area code plus 555-1212) you can get the number for the recorded

meteorologists give a

local

but

weather bulletin. Calling ahead for a local report

can save you a

it

lot of

may

cost a

little

extra,

aggravation.

Studying your schedule before you pack will give you a good idea of

how many

changes you will need. Breakfast, lunch and dinner with the same people for
several days will

mean more changes than one meeting each day with different
room in front of the television. Thinking in terms of

people and dinner in your

changes helps clarify your needs. Four days and four nights in one town can

mean

eight changes.

FLEXIBILITY IS

Your

itinerary

is

good

starting point for packing.

THE KEY

After you've determined what the weather will be like and what

you

will

be

you have kept your wardrobe to one

basic Capsule, this group becomes your travel Capsule as well. If you have two
or more Capsules, you may simply choose the one that will work for you.
doing,

it's

time to decide what to take.

Or you may

If

bring together pieces from two different Capsules whose colors

are compatible.

Working Wardrobe

141

Like any other Capsule, the one for travel works on the two-color system with

The best travel Capsule has the fewest number of pieces

amount of flexibility. It should require only one color in shoes
and handbags. With the exception of very formal occasions, the clothes you

pieces that interrelate.

and

the greatest

take should function well for day and night.

As Fashion Director
tact

my

of Garfinckel's,

job required that

year, each for a

minimum

European fashion
trips to

of

two

be

and two three-week

days),

in constant

trips a

year to the

The

as well.

cities

trips to

Seventh Avenue

usually involved being with different people from the store every day.

be working on

shows with

less of

The European

exactly the

trips

same people

all

the time. For these

For a three day

New

trip to

York,

with a black wool sweater jacket.

The

right for

skirts

work with

took a suitcase plus a carry -on

might take a Black/Gray Capsule. This

would pack

on

its

own

the sweater jacket.

skirts.

and made a

the skirts

suit

would wear on

if I

and a pullover

of the dress could be

jacket also

worked with

of a dress

when combined with

worn

the other

look with the black one. The pullover went with

and had the look

in

were going out to dinner, and look

The blouse

The black sweater

the plane

a black knife-pleated skirt in

flannel skirt, one silk blouse in ivory,

dress could stand

with any of the

different

New York became

travel Capsules.

a gray striped two-piece silk dress

wool crepe and a gray

Working with

trips to

usually traveled with just a carry-on

worked around

black.

might

meant eighteen days and eighteen evenings with

bag. In both situations,

would include

The quick

a need for changes.

commuter's shuttle for me, and

like a

promotions with the coat buyer one day, and on spring

the designer sportswear buyer the next.

people meant

bag.

fall

con-

(thirty trips a

London, and Milan. There were occasional

capitals of Paris,

other U.S. and European

New York

with the market. That meant frequent travel to

all

of

the black skirt, giv-

142

ing

The Travel Capsule

me another

dressy outfit

blouse, of course,

were going out

if I

worked with any

in the

on

of the skirts

evening again. The ivory

its

own and

with either

The simple black shoes I took one pair which I wore, and one pair
packed went with everything. My basic accessories included a pair of

sweater.

which

gold earrings, a pair of pearl earrings, a rope of pearls, and a black leather
I

always wore

my

watch and gold

bracelet.

At

the

bottom

black nylon raincoat that took up almost no space at

lingerie, a

It

was always fun

We

what other people from

to see

who was

While

complexion.

Our

this contrast as a guideline for

few pieces of

when

the store took

is

our customers'

tastes.

At

we

show-

the Missoni

from

the flowers

which were

complex color combinations. The range offered by the Missoni

finally

worked out

collec-

a system of selecting

two color

my

choice for

groupings, one Joan's choice for blondes and redheads, and one

Though our

was

a pale blonde with a

to the food, to, of course, the clothes,

was enormous, but we

brunettes.

they

of luggage, but the contents

skin, she

Milan, color was abundant everywhere

blooming indoors and out,

tions

belt.

kept a

color preferences were always dissimilar. In fact,

fair

used

just outside

amount

have dark hair and

very

rich in

bag

the buyer of designer clothes, traveled to Europe

usually carried the same

totally different.

room

all.

my

cosmetic bag and electric rollers finished the picture.

traveled. Joan Carl,

with me.

of

choice of styles was usually similar, the effect of the

clothes in different colors offered a

marked

contrast.

Before Joan travels to Europe, she lines everything up in her office.

Then she

makes sure

there isn't anything she can't

pants must be able to

work with

same, a jacket must go with

all

a sweater

at least three

and two blouses, a

of the bottoms.

that kind of flexibility. Otherwise,

home. As

wear

ways.
skirt

pair of

must do the

Whatever she takes must have

no matter how much she loves

for colors, she might base her Capsule

it,

it

stays

around a favorite knit coat

Working Wardrobe

143

and burgundy

that has purple

in

it.

She might include a purple knit two-piece

and

dress, a three piece striped knit outfit, lots of silk blouses in purple, wine,

ivory, a pair of

burgundy suede pants and

a purple suede skirt. Mixing the

sweater knits with the suedes gives one interesting look, while combining the
suedes and the silks gives a totally different texture. Again, there are enough
color combinations and styles to give her
are at the hotel cleaners, she

knows

good

flexibility.

Even

if

some

things

work

she has clothes in her closet that will

together.

There are some

your

trips that require pulling together different

travel Capsule. For example,

one

trip

made

to

Capsules to form

Europe included the usual

stops in Milan, Florence, Paris, and London, but then

was meeting

Sadat.

It

was

and

April,

it

would

still

be rather chilly

in

Europe. In Cairo and

Luxor, however, the temperature could climb as high as 115 degrees.

to

my

Anwar

journalist-husband for a trip to Egypt and an interview with President

needed

combine a winter Capsule and a summer Capsule.

For

this particular trip,

my winter Capsule,

two-piece dark green

chose to work around a Capsule of Green/Ivory. From

packed a

suit in a forest

silk paisley shirtdress.

over sweater, a rust turtleneck, and two ivory

collar

and one with a bow). The

dress in ivory,

Egypt, and they

Paris, too.

layer

my

silk

came

in

sweaters under

took three pairs of shoes

my

packed an ivory

pull-

blouses (one with a notched

came from

suit.

my summer

one-piece shirt-

For evening

included a

did throw in a pair of jeans for sightseeing in

handy

A rust unlined coat

silk shirtdress in rust, a

and an ivory silk-and-wool-blend

pair of ivory crepe trousers.

these

rest of the clothing

Capsule and included a two-piece raw

Then I added

green wool tweed.

With

for

kept

suits.

some casual evenings on

me warm, and on
For wet days,

beige pumps,

rust

the Left

Bank

very chilly days

had

my

nylon raincoat.

pumps, and beige

in

could
I

espadrilles for

The Travel Capsule

144

sightseeing expeditions in Cairo

during the day, but

dressy evenings. All of this

my

carry-on bag, so that

me,

was

it

Before
bed.

make

Only then does

fit

one

in

My

suitcase.

it

take out the pieces

go
1

in the suitcase.

set of

There are some essentials

makeup

in

dry overnight.

some

little

and

the

my

know I'll always

cabinet.

a small

blow

trips.

hand

dryer, both
travel with

space and can be rinsed out and hung

do always pack a lightweight robe

of

my bathroom

which can change current automatically for international

was, For

in small plastic containers, a

set of electric rollers

nylon lingerie which takes up very

when

want and spread them on

keep them on a separate shelf

steamer for domestic travel, a

service for

bag

personal items went in a

luggage was manageable no matter where

trip,

They include a separate

to

carried a tan leather clutch

sure that each piece can be used in several different ways.

take with me, and

of

a truly complete travel Capsule.

pack for any

Then

and Luxor.

did take a small antique Japanese basketweave purse for

since

dinners. In fact, that's one luxury

enjoy calling
I

room

look forward to

travel!

DESIGNING YOUR
Suppose there

is

OWN TRAVEL CAPSULE

a trip coming

selecting the clothes to

pack?

up

First

in

your schedule.

How

should you go about

decide on a color scheme. That

way you can

Then decide which are the

most important events on your schedule and how you want to look. If you are
taking a suit, consider it as a separate skirt and jacket as well. Then pick other
automatically eliminate pieces that won't work.

pieces that will relate

skirts or

another

work with the skirt and other

You might include a dress that also

top that will

pants that will go with the jacket.

can work with the jacket. For a two- or three-day

or one jacket, pants

and

a skirt

(all

in a

trip,

dark color)

one jacket and two

may

skirts

be enough. While the

Working Wardrobe

skirt

and

145

jacket together give an excellent authoritative look, the skirt alone can

be dressed up for evening with a pretty blouse. The pants can be very comfortable for traveling

and can

dresses, include at least

also function as

an evening look.

If

you

are choosing

one jacket that can work with them so that again, you

can get a crisper look for meetings and a softer look when you want

Keep

to solid colors or subtle patterns in jackets, pants, skirts,

gives

you more

away
work

for

and

flexibility. Prints

can get pretty tiresome

if

and

dresses. This

you're going to be

any length of time. They are more recognizable, and not as

with. But

you can introduce color and

scarves. Blouses, indeed, are a great

without taking up

much
punch

way

flexible to

pattern with blouses, sweaters,

to

change

mood and

color easily,

space in your suitcase. Scarves, another small item to

terms of color and effect.

A white shirt and a dark

take,

pack a

skirt

can take on a dozen different looks depending on the scarf that

with

it.

If

you enjoy

so that

lot of

jewelry,

it

in

can have the same

becomes something new and

it

it.

effect,

is

worn

changing the look of an outfit

fresh looking

even though you've been

more than you would have if you were home. A rope of pearls
automatically dresses up your silk blouse and skirt. A big necklace adds drama
wearing

it

a lot

to a simple sweater

wardrobe

and

interesting.

skirt. It's this

kind of change that can keep your travel

The Travel Capsule

146

The

that

short trips,
that

must

essential accessories

means

two

pairs of shoes should

do the

If

all

your

of

clothes. For

one that you wear and one

trick,

you pack. Longer periods away may warrant

daytime and a dressy pair for evening.

you may need an

your Capsule. That

travel, too; they are part of

your shoes and handbag must work with

two

three pairs,

any sightseeing

additional pair of walking shoes. In

trips will

any

for the

be included,

no more than

case,

four pairs of shoes should be necessary, one of which you'll be wearing. Your

handbag should complement

any dressy evenings you
There are some business
seeing, sun

all

will

your

of

want

clothes;

trips that

however,

if

you

are planning

one evening purse.

to include

allow time for

leisure,

whether

it's

sight-

worshipping or shopping. Along with a swimsuit, include a pair of

casual pants or a casual skirt.

Capsule so that

it

It

should be

in the color

scheme of your

can work with the tops you take along.

travel

there are

If

any

dressy evenings planned, one simple dress, in a jersey or a silk crepe, should be
sufficient.

Or, you

Short trips

may

may

include a dressy pair of slacks and a pretty top.

only require an overnight case for

all

of

your

things. But for

longer stays, one hanging bag or suitcase should

accommodate

Hanging bags have the advantage

when you

clothes.

your clothing hung while you

travel.

safest in a separate carry-on bag.

arrive

and find your luggage

makeup,

curlers, or

lost is

whatever

else

of arriving

Your personal

That sinking

items,

all

of

your

do, and keep

however, are always

feeling that

comes when you

even worse when you find yourself without

you need

to

make you, you. One bag and

carry-on gives you the ability to handle your things without the help of
porters

who

may

not be there anyway.

chases along the way,

up almost no space

slip a

at all

and

will allow

crushing your clothes on the trip back.

your Capsule.

If

you

anticipate

making any pur-

separate nylon bag into your suitcase.

you
If

to

It

will take

shop without worrying about

you do buy any

clothes,

remember

Working Wardrobe

THE PROBLEM
Kathleen H. was a publicist for a small firm in San Francisco. The head of the
company asked if she would be interested in going to London for two weeks on
business. She was delighted but realized that her wardrobe needed some
embellishing. At work she wore very casual clothes, but in London she would

need a dressier look.

THE SOLUTION
Kathleen had a bright navy jacket which she liked very much. She also

white pleated

wanted
skirt, a

to

skirt,

and had recently bought a raspberry

work around

two-piece dress

in

these clothes.

We

navy and wine

silk

owned

blouse. She

added a pair of wine pants, a navy

silk, a

wine cardigan, and

She could attend meetings during the day, go out

evening, and pack just ten pieces of clothing.

to dinner

navy blouse.

and the theater

in the

Navy/ Wine Travel Capsule

Two-Week

Trip

Working Wardrobe

THE PROBLEM
Sharon T. lived

in

Boston and worked for an electronics firm. The industry was

holding a convention in Atlanta. Sharon would be representing the

the

booth during the day and would be going

evening. She needed clothes that

to dinners

and

company

at

parties in the

would be comfortable and could be dressed up

at night.

THE SOLUTION
Working around

a favorite ivory suit, Sharon used that as the jacket

and

skirt.

She decided to buy a pair of ivory pants, as they would be perfect during the

summer,
skirt

too. She took

an ivory blouse, a red

which would mix well with the ivory

interesting look, she also

silk shirt,

skirt

and a

teal silk shirt

brought along a new purple cardigan. With

Ivory /Teal Capsule, she was able to get several varied looks from ivory
tones to bursting brights.

and

and pants. To make another

this

mono-

Ivory/Teal Travel Capsule

Four

Day Convention

Working Wardrobe

151

HOW TO PACK
Packing a hanging bag

is

quite simple

whatever you would ordinarily

such as jackets, skirts and dresses, are hung

in the bag.

hang,

Folded items, such as

sweaters and nightgowns, go in the bottom compartments along with

all

of

your

other personal items. Because this type of luggage goes on the plane with you,

you can

also include

worry about

your cosmetics and other

their getting lost. So, a

independence, freeing you from worries about

essity of waiting

If

you

without having to

it

to carry

lost luggage, eliminating the nec-

after

you have disembarked from

your own

suitcase.

more than

prefer a traditional suitcase, which, of course can hold

you should

ing bag can,

into

around for your bags long

and enabling you

the airplane,

essentials in

hanging bag can give you a great sense of

still

be able to put

all

of

a hang-

your clothes and accessories

one bag. There are several travel items you might consider which can make

One

which can hold necklaces,

bracelets, pins

and earrings and protect them from getting damaged. There are

also attractive

packing

easier.

lingerie cases

hung

ing kit,
also

a jewelry

roll,

which hold nightgowns,

in the closet

are the ideal

is

way

upon your

panties, bras

arrival at

your

for holding shoes, so

To pack your

slips,

hotel. Plastic lined cosmetic cases

suitcase, first line

essential. Plain plastic

first

heel of

sew-

bags are

have some of these available.

up everything you are planning

you, making sure that your shoes and handbags will go with

The

and which can be

to carry cosmetics as well as medicine, nail polish, soap,

and any other items which you consider

handy

and

all

of

to take with

your

clothes.

layer in your bag should contain your shoes, going sole to sole, the

one touching the toe of the other, your handbags, your accessories,

cluding scarves, and your intimate apparel. Use the

and shoes

for

your

softer things so that

you

fill

in-

empty spaces between bags

out and even off that layer.

On

top of this will go your largest items, your skirts, pants, dresses and jackets.

Your

skirts

should be placed

flat in

the bag

and then folded once

in half.

To

The Travel Capsule

152

pack your pants, hold them by the

Then

them

fold

fold should be

in half.

all

you need,

shoulder and place

the skirt

is

unless the skirt

your suitcase so

up once over

the sides in first

is

in

with one leg

little
is

flat

against the other.

one

trickier to pack, but, again,

very

full.

Hold

the dress

that the top of the dress

by

the

and

inside

is

draped over the edge. Then place the sleeves across the front and

fold the skirt

the dress

it

cuffs,

Dresses can be a

the sleeves

and bodice.

and then fold the whole bottom up

If

the skirt

is

very

to reach the top.

buttoned, zipped and belted before you pack

it,

so that

full,

fold

Make

sure

retains

it

its

shape. Like the dresses, jackets should be buttoned too, then placed buttons

down

into the suitcase. Bring the sleeves back,

the jacket to

fit

into the bag. After

blouses, sweaters,

When

and then fold over

you have packed

the

bottom of

these items, then put in

and a raincoat, which you may need

to get at quickly.

using a suitcase that travels in the luggage compartment of the plane,

take along a separate small bag that will go under your seat. In

it

can go cos-

metics, that should be in plastic containers inside the plastic lined cosmetics
case, hair dryer, electric curlers, travel iron or steamer,

and perhaps a collapsible

roll

In choosing
ticularly
self

your luggage, consider the many materials now

important to be concerned about weight as you

carrying your

case that

is

alarm clock, jewelry

travel umbrella.

own

bags. Fortunately,

leather luggage

is still

it.

Although

It is

par-

often find your-

no longer necessary

it is

heavy even before you pack

available.

may

to

buy a

beautiful, but

suit-

heavy

available, other options include hard-sided fabric bags,

hard-sided molded bags, soft-sided canvas bags, and soft-sided featherweight

bags made of parachute cloth.

have found soft-sided bags

practical as they are light to carry

imagine. Before

on luggage

you

go,

make

tags attached to

bag.

sure your

name and

your bags. This

save you from picking up the

to be extremely

and can hold much more than one would

wrong

is

address are clearly marked

required on

suitcase or help

you

all airlines

and can

in identifying a lost

Olive /Gold Travel Capsule

Three Day Trip

Ivory /Tan Travel Capsule

Three Day Trip

Navy /Gray

Travel Capsule

One-Week Convention

Forest /Ginger Travel Checklist

One-Week

Trip

Working Wardrobe

REAL PEOPLE
For the

women

in this chapter, travel

is

way

of

life.

Although

their trips

vary from overnight to a month long, their needs are always the same

mum

looks from

Based on

make

to

minimum

clothes.

women

their capsules, these

travel easy

Trisha

offer

some

solid, practical

jail.

won

an award from the American Council of

Her one-day prison term

ship of Dallas sponsored

problems of

At

how

Wilson

a tribute to her outstanding accomplishments in business

going to

advice on

and comfortable.

Last year Trisha Wilson

is

may

maxi-

all

by

of the citizens in the

is

&

Commerce

by

the Leader-

to understand the

community.

dynamo

thirty-two, this perky, blonde

and president of Trisha Wilson

of

Women,

This year she

art.

part of an experiment

Chamber

the local

and

is

an active participant

in city affairs

Associates, an interior and architectural

design firm with fifteen designers.

To

create fresh ideas for a steady stream of clients, she searches for the

different. "I've

had two

clients

send

Texas drawl. Where did she go on her

to Japan,

Hong Kong, Bangkok,

Sri

me around

new and

the world," she says in her

last trip? "I started in

San Francisco, then

Lanka, Bombay, Zurich, Copenhagen,

London, Chicago, and home." Not quite "Around the World

in

Eighty Days,"

her trip lasted just two-and-a-half weeks. In that period, she went from the
bitter cold of a

January blizzard

in

Copenhagen

to the sizzling equatorial heat

of Sri Lanka.

What

clothes

do you take

for a trip

climate, but in culture? 'There

doesn't go

on an elephant, but

which has such sharp contrasts

was no way

to anticipate

in the jungle they're

it.

not just in

silk dress just

used as taxis." For her unex-

The Travel Capsule

158

pected elephant rides in search of native

Lanka. But for the

her

rest of

art,

she bought a batik sundress in Sri

was

she

trip,

totally prepared,

and packed

everything in one foldable hanging bag. She included extra expandable bags for
personal shopping along the way. "I'm a big shopper, so

room
"I

began with the shoes," she told me.

color, navy.

took three pairs of shoes

coordinated everything with one

"I

walking

wore

night and one pair of boots." She also

shoes for day, sandals for

the sandals during the

sundress as well. Her handbags were in navy, too.

nighttime bag and a shoulder bag, which

always got your hands

full."

The

were minimal and

of

wanted plenty of

to bring things back."

clothes themselves

Navy/Gray.

had a lightweight

"I

wear during the day with a

could wear with

it

silk

at night."

She worked around the theme

basic.

wool

was

skirt

navy

skirt in

or cotton blouse, and

Her other

in

that

skirt.

The other

jacket

That jacket had an extra bonus of her

a quilted

way

navy velvet

could

make

it

collar that

invention.

silk dress. "Silk takes

steam

A white silk blouse,

blouse, plus several

"I

suit

look

flecks of navy.

my dressmaker do

had

daytime or nighttime." She also included a pair of

either

out," she says.

could put on the collar of the jacket. That

navy pants and a navy

it

could

gray tropical wool. She

was a gray tweed with

own

had a beaded sweater

brought along two jackets, one a blazer that she could work into a
with the navy

imperative because you've

feel is

tropical

day with her

had two purses

"I

no room

at all

and you can

just

a white cotton shirt, a paisley silk

wool sweaters, gave her

the variety

and

flexibility

she

needed. The only other item was a navy trench coat with a button-out lining.

"The reason

took a dark coat was

khaki color but

it

it

could go either way.

looked so much more formal

With

just these basic pieces, she stressed, "I

but

wore

the

any room.
I

also

cost the

same

had three

had

"I

took a

lot of accessories

different belts

a paisley

as a

never wore the same outfit twice,

same clothes every day." She explained how she changed

look with her accessories.

wrap.

It

at night."

a leather one,

cummerbund which

the

because they don't take up

a gold one, and a striped

could do around twice at the

Working Wardrobe

159

neck and make a bow.

had about

five ties to

make

bows and some

into

scarves

and a muffler."

Among
dryer.

the personal items Trisha

As

packed were

ten dollars with the nightcream

bottles for

shampoo and

electric rollers

Arden has

for her other essentials, "Elizabeth

and everything

things like that.

put

all

in

and a small hair-

a travel kit for less than

it.

bought

little

plastic

of that in one plastic bag

and

then in the big bag."

How

did she

manage with so

matter of survival."

little?

"It's

How did she know

it

the only

would

all

way you can do

work?

"I start

with a blank sheet of paper and write

down

the days

Monday

night,

Tuesday day, etc'

I'll

put

down 'Monday

day,

sees exactly

what her needs

explains her

own

will

be and writes

I'll

it.

It's

out every

be away. For example,

down what

"

That way she

she will wear. She

philosophy: "I'm a prime believer that your only limitation

your imagination." Trisha has

let

trip

her imagination soar, and

it

is

has taken her not

only around the world but to the top of her profession as well.

Trisha Wilson: Travel Capsule

Colors

Navy /Gray.

Fabrics

Brown /Gray.

Lightweight and

Accessories

seasonless: Tropical weight wools, flannel, silk, cotton.

Counts on scarves, bows, and belts to create varied looks. Begins with shoes
and bags. Stays with one color
Loves to create ideas

Style

'Tour only limitation

is

belt

here, then

buckle

your imagination."

Key words Original. Imaginative. Perky.

works her

made from an

Fresh.

travel capsule

old compact.

around

it.

The Travel Capsule

160

Diane Sawyer
Diane Sawyer has a double image problem. She
she wants to be seen, but also

may work face

to face

how

think should

work

man's
so.

you can
that

it's

"At

first

may be
is

The

it's

It's

it."

Must

on the

not the image

does want to con-

the duplication of a
I

air," she replies. "I think a

"I

think

sweater

effect similar to a jacket."

feels

they give her clothing individuality and extra

concerned that they capture the attention of the audience.

camera eye

"It is

up the extraneous item and rivets

better." She may wear a pin on her

that picks

simpler, but not stark simple, the

but she's learned to choose simple ones, and not those with

"interesting patterns in them, because then the viewer spends the

trying to figure out

what on earth

She's also used accessories to beef

1980

don't think

there always be a jacket?

the biggest problem on the screen. Although Diane enjoys

the curiousness of the

it.

to project, but she

glance you might think

the completeness of

wearing accessories and

mileage, she

CBS network

me. Things that you

subconsciously suggests a man's authority, but

molds the shoulders has an

sweater,

wants

get that look with sweaters

Distraction

on

this

how

What

well don't, like a simple black suit and a simple red blouse.

air of authority.
attire that

think

Says

just fascinates

across looking like a department store inspector."

of the girl in gray flannel that Diane

vey an

concerned not only with

may not be successful on camera.

news correspondent, "Television dressing

You come

is

she will look on the television screen.

political

whole time

on your pin."

up her spare

travel

wardrobe. Covering the

campaigns, Diane was often away for two or three weeks at a

time, living out of

one hanging bag. "You have three or four things and you

wear them every day.

took about three

had three or four looks

sets of items: jackets, skirts,

public from getting bored?

can make a

that says

"I

lot of difference

took a

on

could get from one item, and

and

shirts."

How did she keep

lot of different earrings.

television, so

the

Colored earrings

took green ones, purples ones,

Working Wardrobe

161

red ones." She also took several necklaces, including brightly colored ones,
neutrals

don't

and gold. She brought along a change of

show up

work around

as

much on camera.

a pair of silk pants

and a bright

When

bracelets, too,

would

packed one other morale booster

silk shirt. "I can't tell

you've lived

though they

also took a couple of scarves that

the neck or at the waist." She

psychologically.
to put

"I

you what

in sturdy clothes all

day long,

it

did for

it's

on something flamboyant."

Diane Sawyer: Travel Capsule

Colors

White/Pretty pales.

Fabrics

Soft sweaters.

Accessories

Simple

Wool

skirts. Silk blouses.

and nondistracting. Bright

colors,

to

change a look.

soft

look in a tough

in jewelry,

Scarves to wear at the neck or the waist.

Style

Separates

pulled together with an accent

world.

Key words Authoritatively

feminine.

on

accessories.

me

fantastic

Chapter 6

SHOP
TALK:

A
you,
of

it

will

working wardrobe

change and develop as you do.

your past experience, you

you already own. To build

selecting out those pieces

which you have never

number

of items with

may

not

is

Just as

static.

you bring

bring to your wardrobe

working wardrobe

which you

really like

really felt comfortable.

As
to

a reflection of

your work some

some

of the clothes

will require a sifting process,

and enjoy, discarding those

It is

likely that there will

which you can work. They may be the basis

sule or several, depending, of course,

of

in

be a

one Cap-

on what they are and what colors they

are in.

After deciding what to keep, the next step

Capsule. For some people, shopping

know what you want,

the process

is

is filling

in the missing pieces of

your

not a pleasant experience, but as you

itself

becomes much

easier.

Knowing

the

kinds of clothes you need for your Capsule and the look you want to project,
will help

you

as

you go through

the stores.

Shop Talk

164

LOOK BEFORE YOU BUY

Shopping should be a three-step procedure. Begin by looking through fashion
magazines and fashion catalogs to give you a sense of direction. Not only

will

you now have

that

you discover what

in style,

is

you

will also see

what

clothes

can be adapted to your new working wardrobe. Cut out pictures of what you
like,

whether

a particular item, or a total look; this can help

it is

You may even be

are in the stores.

telephone or by mail

The second
available.

step

is

if

you

you when you

do some of your shopping by

able to

find specific items

you can use

for

also investigative. Scout the stores to see

your Capsule.

what

is

actually

Although the magazines are a great inspiration, they are sometimes

too advanced even for the

retailers,

bought from the manufacturers. In

and the items they show are not always

fact,

each month the fashion magazines will

leading stores around the country to inform them of the clothes to be

call the

featured in future editions and to find out which stores have actually bought
these items so they can be credited with the merchandise. But

all

too often,

fashion editors choose looks which store buyers don't feel are salable.

Actually going through the stores will give you a

there. In addition,

interior displays.

and thought

way

to

you an opportunity

Take advantage

how

inside the store,

to study store

is

windows and

of them. Store personnel take a lot of time

retailers

look upon them as a teaching process, a

it

can

all

be put together.

head for the expensive areas.

what

to

fabrics,

know where

and what shapes are sure

hemlines are going,

have been developed, or

if

new

Why? To

teach yourself

what trends are being shown, what

the best merchandise looks like,

fabrics

what

realistic appraisal of

showing the customer the newest looks, the most important or forward

of

colors,

want

will give

do them, and

merchandise, and

Once
what

it

if

to be

around

If

you

full, if

new

for a while.

pants will be narrow or

color combinations are being

worked

Working Wardrobe

together, this

a pyramid.

165

is

the place to get your information.

New

ideas

come from

The clothing industry

a small group of people

like

is

the designers and

from there the best looks are copied and adapted for wider and wider markets.
Naturally, this filtering process takes a while, so the best of the

around for

may

they

a long time.

start

the latest trend

If

workmanship may not be

more

still

retailers are

less

and

less

new looks

are

for example, intricate sweaters,

out as hand knits costing several hundred dollars.

copied tor several seasons at

While you are

is,

money. Of course,

They may be

the quality

and

the same, but the look will be there.

new areas. More and

woman. Departments are
'The Office" at Abraham and

scouting the stores, look around for

gearing themselves to the working

being opened with an eye to the executive suite.

Straus, "Corporate

Image"

at Filene's,

are just three examples of this trend.

and "Careers"

Shopping

at

in these

&

Marshall Field

Co.

departments can save

innumerable hours. They often stock clothing and accessories gathered from

around the

store, including

merchandise priced from moderate to expensive.

Often the department has a special manager, someone

career

woman's needs.

Many

stores

have personal shoppers

who

who

is

tuned

in to

can become an extension of their

customers, keeping track of their needs, their taste, and their budgets. They

(most

will

minimum),
at

often

without charge although sometimes with a

pull together the clothes

first

time

to be tried

on

your convenience, and spend the hours you don't have hunting down those

really

needed items. These consultants can be a goldmine of information. They

are thoroughly familiar with

and

easily.

going on

what
to

you want, have them ready

will

update

They

sale.

usually

what

is

know what

in the store
is

coming

and can find things quickly

in to stock as well as

Because they work with the clothing

go with what,

how

last year's clothes.

to

all

what

change a look from casual to dressy,

is

know
and how

of the time, they

Shop Talk

166

While personal shoppers are particularly helpful

saleswoman can be invaluable

larger store.

may

She

be the owner or

needs and knows not only what you

may even

She

who

be someone

in big stores, a

in a smaller store

someone who understands your

just

may

knowledgeable

or within a department of a

like

but what will look good on you.

looks like you, has a similar figure or coloring,

or dresses with the kind of style

you admire.

THE PROBLEM
M. had

Eileen

she was a

lived in the

young

same

city in

Ohio

for

most of her

From

life.

the time

she had shopped in one favorite department store.

girl,

Recently she had

moved

to Chicago,

department

stores.

She found she had neither the time nor the desire to

large

run

all

by

herself confused

of the

all

over town trying to find what stores had the merchandise she wanted.

But with a

new

and found

new

job for herself and for her husband, she

knew

she needed

some

clothes.

THE SOLUTION
Eileen called several of the

major stores and found out that some of them had

personal shoppers. After talking to them on the phone, she

aggressive, one

insisted

agreeable to her.

met Caroline

in

that

felt

on too high a minimum purchase, but the

Making an appointment on

one was too

third

a lunch hour, Eileen

seemed

went

in

and

person. In discussing her needs, she explained that she would be

going out to business dinners with her husband a good deal, and that she

worked

in a small office as well.

piece knit suit in

she

wore

navy and a

Her favorite clothes

kelly green jacket.

a lot, but she needed to pull

all

at the

moment were a two

She had a navy

skirt too, that

of her things together plus get

some

dressy ideas. Caroline suggested that she could go through the store, gather

some

clothes together

around a

first

out a

card with

file

and present them

time budget of $250.

all

to Eileen the following

They agreed

to this plan,

of this pertinent information, they

week working
after making

and

began an excellent

working relationship whereby Eileen could telephone ahead, explain her

current needs, and make an appointment to try on clothes based on her existing
wardrobe.

u-

Shop Talk

168

THE PROBLEM
Every time Sandy G. went shopping, she found she was overwhelmed by

all

the

clothing she saw. In fact, she even found herself getting anxious at the thought

became bewildering and

of going shopping. Inside the stores, the merchandise

all

began

to look alike.

what she wanted.

would buy
seemed

would

to

If

When

a salesperson approached her, she

was unsure

of

she tried things on, nothing seemed to look right. She

things out of frustration

and anger. At home, her clothes never

go together, but the idea of going shopping to find what she needed
her again.

just upset

THE SOLUTION
Sandy and

took a morning and sorted through her

clothes she really liked

closet

and what she

and Sandy vowed

to give

them

signment in a second-hand store.

We

didn't.

We

closet, deciding

removed

the rejects

to friends or charity or put

arranged what remained

what

from the

them on con-

in her closet

by

color and found that most of her favorite clothes were beige or black. She also

had some pieces

in

wine that she

liked.

We

decided to

work

her clothes into a

black and beige Capsule, using wine as an accent. She found that by looking at

own and

each piece of clothing on

its

create a lot of outfits. But

what she

trying

really

it

with the other items, she could

found she needed was two blouses, a

white one and a beige one.

Setting out to

go shopping, Sandy knew exactly what to look for

in the store.

She headed straight for the department that carried her price range

and zeroed

in

on what she needed. By doing

her fear and she

was able

felt satisfied

to pull together a

by

this,

Sandy was able

the shopping experience.

working wardrobe.

And

in blouses,

to

overcome

for $80,

Sandy

Black/Beige Working Capsule

Beige

Will

work with

Jacket

Jacket

c
a

Jacket

All jackets

blouses.

Skirt

All jackets, blouses.

Skirt

E^

R
L_

L_

Skirts

Ml

Skirt

Blouse

Blouse

Blouse

Blouse

Sweater

jackets

blouses

Shop Talk

170

MAKING YOUR SELECTIONS

Once you

find the departments in

for the third step

see a skirt

you

that relate to

like,

it.

which you want

buying your clothes.

Or,

carry
if

it

Look

to concentrate, you're ready

carefully at the selection.

around the department and

you are

trying to complete a Capsule

those you already own, bring along one or two

If

you

try to find other pieces

of the items

by adding

pieces to

you already have

in

work with colors and shapes if you can see

them in front of you rather than trying to remember what they look like. The
mind's eye can play funny tricks, and what you remembered as a dark blue

your

closet.

skirt

may

Going

It is

much

easier to

turn out to be three shades lighter.

into the dressing

room

presents a traumatic situation for

many women.

It is

a place of confrontation with yourself, and the meeting can be unsettling

you

aren't

happy with what you

see in the mirror. But

if

also can be a starting

it

do those thigh-slimming
room can also be the place
where you can play with different looks, sample new colors, and experiment
with the latest fashions. It is a private spot where you are free to try out a new
point, the time

when you

more

exercises

on

and

see

how

role

it

resolve to go

consistent basis.

suits

on a

The

diet or

dressing

you.

Dressing rooms are notorious for evil mirrors and fading lightbulbs that seem
to pick

up everything

that's

wrong with your

figure

and

little that's right.

when
great

on you

in real life. If

you have any doubts about

the

out to the selling floor and find a three-way mirror in good

take

it

give

you a

true idea of

dressing well

is

how you

look from every angle.

making sure you look

attractive

from the

So

know it will look

way an outfit looks,

something looks good on you in the dressing room, you

One

light; this will

of the keys to

front, back,

and

side.

Working Wardrobe

171

While you are looking

in the mirror,

dress a flattering length for

the shape too full or overpowering?

Does

it

works almost

make you bulge

it

Is

the skirt or

wrong places? Is
color complement your skin tone?

Does the

envelopes you, or

is it

in the

the fabric

a print,

is

small and neat enough that

it

it? If

is

like a solid?

One important
the

it

drain color from your face or add color to

the pattern so large that

part,

ask yourself some questions.

you? Does

thing to look for

is

pockets, so that you, like your male counter-

have a comfortable place to put your hands. Pockets can

awkwardness many

when

feel

relieve a lot of

they are standing and talking. Because

pockets are an added expense for a manufacturer, they are often omitted in
expensive clothes but they are worth a few extra dollars to you

you

if

less

they help put

at ease.

When you are

trying

on a

jacket, look carefully at

its

length.

Does

hips or end just in the middle of them? Midhip-length jackets

wider.

Where does

the jacket hit you-at the rear?

Does

it

it

cover your

make you look

emphasize your der-

riere? If the jacket

has pockets, do these conflict with the pockets on your skirt

or dress, or does

cover them so that they don't fight one another?

is

short, does

If

you

into

it

it

are trying

your

skirt.

on a blouse, make sure

Are the

sleeves long

Do

too long and sloppy looking?

tering?

Does

it

If

the jacket

cover your waist, or does your blouse show?

have a

it is

enough?

long enough to be tucked neatly

On the other hand,

are the sleeves

the shoulders

fit

properly?

worn

in

more than one way

collar that can be

down, button or unbuttoned? This kind

Is

of collar will give

the neckline flat-

up and
you much more

versatility.

What about your own

that

figure type?

emphasize your tiny

the very feminine details that

If

you are short and

slim, look for clothes

You can wear tucks and pleats and carry off

many larger women cannot. If you're heavy or

figure.

Shop Talk

172

stocky,
are

you can look slimmer and longer

in clothes that are

narrow on top and broad through the

monotones.

hips, look for jackets

If

you

and tops with

shoulder pads or tucking at the shoulders. The extra width at the top will de-

emphasize the bottom.

you carry

off

If

you

more extremes

enough

are lucky

to be

you can

in fashion,

tall,

also

enjoy

it.

Not only can

wear simple clothes with

elegance and sophistication.

When it comes

to trying

on

clothes,

Nancy

Kissinger has

some good

advice. Al-

though she has learned a great deal from the American designers whose clothes
she wears, her mother was her best teacher. "I have a fantastic mother who
taught

me about

fit

and things

like that.

She was also honest about what looked

awful on me," Nancy says. Like any young

always see herself the

mother would say,

sort of

If

others did.

"I

girl,

but

five feet

this

lanky Nancy did not

it

it's

beautiful'

and

looks dreadful on you!' That

So I'd say, 'yes, it's a perfectly

two and weighed ninety two pounds, it would

my

height and weight."

While you are trying on clothes, think about

would wear

tall,

at yourself realistically.

were

look absolutely exquisite. But not at

style. If there is

the

used to say, 'oh

'yes, it's perfectly lovely,

made you look

beautiful dress.

way

someone you would

kind of look.

If

like to

something

how you

can develop your

own

emulate, consider whether she

in a fashion

magazine has caught

now is the time to try it on. It may look odd once you get it on, but
again it may open up a whole avenue of ideas. Accepting new ideas in

your eye,
then

fashion

is

a question of adapting your eye to change. Professionals in the fash-

new ideas every season. Keep an open mind

new lengths, new shapes, and new color combinations. Then
your imagination roam so that you can come up with a look that will work

ion industry are used to seeing

when
let

it

for you.

comes

to

Working Wardrobe

173

While you are

on

which

room, play with the clothes you've

don't.

good salesperson can help you

Try

here, but, unfortunately,

it

you

yourself.

you've taken five things into the room and only one item works, discard

what you don't want and go back

like.

Look

for separates that will

sweater or a blouse

in a

new

The more complementary

shopping

Good

You may

find that a wonderful

you can

find in

one

session, the easier

your

FIT
important and makes a major difference

terribly

fit is

skirt is a size

you

it.

color can be just the catalyst your Capsule needs.

pieces

your clothes. To get the best

your

one piece you

to the selling floor with the

complement

will be.

THE PERFECT

fit

selected.

bottoms and see which combinations work and

always depend on one being available so you must learn to do

can't
If

in the dressing

different tops with different

well,

one a

fit,

you have

to ignore sizes.

fourteen and your jacket

size ten

and the other a

is

It

in

how you

a size eight. Often

size twelve.

two

You should

what

size

you wear

if

you look good

in the

in

skirts will

realize that

different manufacturers use different patterns for their sizing. Besides,

doesn't matter

look

doesn't matter that

garment.

it

No

really

one

is

going to look at you as you walk in a

she looks good,

but too bad her skirt

they won't care.

All they will notice

If

you

make

is
is

a size

your overall look.

find that the clothes

sure

you

get

room and think, "Gee,

fourteen." They won't know and

them

you purchase do

altered. For

alterations, but there shouldn't be.

you

are trying

reason that
tions.

it's

on were made

fit

some women,
Your

figure

for thousands of

is

but need some adjustments,

there

suit

a stigma attached to

women. Therefore

almost impossible to achieve a perfect

With a few adjustments, the

is

yours alone, but the clothes

fit

it

stands to

without some altera-

or dress can look as

if it

were custom

174

Shop Talk

made.

In

some

the dressing

woman

stores, the alterations

can

you on

fit

room. That way you know that when you

the spot, right in

get the clothing

home,

it

Or perhaps the garment needs only minor adjustments

can show you how to do yourself. Sometimes she will pin a hem for

be ready to wear.

will

that she

you and you can do

the final sewing

when you

get

home.

THE BEST TIME TO BUY

If

you

are just beginning to build

shopping when merchandise

is

your wardrobe, you might want

at its

peak

year begins with January inventories and

spring merchandise begins

and

this is a

tions will

for
it

summer

to

in.

sales.

By March

do spring shopping.

sale as the

summer

Then

at the

in

do your

slowly, in February,

In April

some

stock begins to arrive.

end of July and

to

retailers, the

the departments are filling up,

clothes buying. After July Fourth, inventory

Then

the sales.

in; this is

good time

go on

coming

most

in the stores. For

August,

fall

of the earlier selec-

May is the peak

time

comes again and with

merchandise

the time to take advantage of the best selection

on

is

its

and newest

way

styles.

Dressy holiday clothes arrive in October and November, followed by resort

wear

in

December and January.

The dream,
all

of

it

on

of course,

sale.

is

to find everything

you need

That can happen sometimes, and

in

one department

I've seen

markdown

people put together entire Capsules from the

unusual. Sales, however, can be a great place to find what

if

you know

exactly

what you

it.

racks, but that

you need,

is

especially

They can be expensive

are looking for.

and

even helped

I've

if

you

don't.

Most

stores

down

after

have

sales at regularly scheduled times: fall clothing gets

Thanksgiving; holiday clothes are reduced after the

(usually after inventory); spring items

go on

first

sale after Easter;

marked

of the year

and summer

Working Wardrobe

175

marked down

clothes are

Take advantage

money

really

Fourth of July (again, usually after inven-

special reductions, such as Election

and during the course of the year there are always

sales,

less

after the

between there are usually

tory). In

your favorite

of

what you want, and

bargain

store's

promotional

make

for regular merchandise. But

is

that

a bargain only

if

you

it

efforts. You'll

be paying

sure the item you're buying

are not buying

you wear

Day coat

special purchases.

just

it

and enjoy

another costly error. In shopping, learning to say no

is

because

it;

on

it is

otherwise

it

is

sale.

can be

as important as learning

to say yes.

REAL PEOPLE

Mary DiGiacomo
Mary DiGiacomo
While her
Trust

East Side.

"I

there."

She wears

colors to black

and

quality in fabric

and

well cut

feels

her clothing can be a definite asset.

department of Manufacturers Hanover

Street twice a year."

shop

buy very good

at

things

"because they project a good, clean business image,"

"because they look good on me." She keeps her Capsule

beige, insists

on natural

fibers,

and shops with an eye

and cut." Choosing wool gabardine or wool crepe

skirts,

and

down on New York's

look for ideas on Fifth Avenue," she told me, but

suits,

also, she adds,

jackets

who

around Canal

the discount stores

and

a banker

high above Park Avenue, she does her shopping

sits

Lower

is

office in the International

and

tailored,

silk for

and

"for

for her

her blouses, she requires her jackets to be very

the skirts to

move

well. "I like

and look better on me." Her standard uniform

is

my

have

skirts to

makes them move

better

a silk blouse, a skirt

and a

pleats," says this five foot ten inch executive. "This

jacket or sweater.

Like any smart investor, she watches her

return

on

it.

"I

take very

good care

of

money and makes sure she gets a good

clothes," she says. 'That way they

my

176

last a

Shop Talk

long time.

to a very

wear some

good dry

less frequently.

things four

cleaner, giving

The

less

shoes," she goes on,

"I

and

five years."

She sends her clothes

them her blouses constantly, but her

dry cleaning, the longer the wools

take them to the shoemaker as soon as

have taps put on the front to protect them and

ones that never wear out. Then
In the banker's tradition,

Mary

suits

"Even

will last.

my

buy them.

change the heels

to

German

put a cream on them for extra protection."

states, "I invest in

my

clothes."

Her

attitude

is

woman. "I think my femininity is my biggest asset," she says, "so why downplay it? You have to strike a
happy medium between a professional stance and being a woman."
strictly business-like,

but she never forgets she

is

Mary DiGiacamo: Working Capsule

Colors Black /Beige
Fabrics

Silks,

Accessories

Wool

Watch:

gabardine.
leather

chain. Pearls.

Style Suits.

Wool

band

Diamond

crepe, Fibranne.

for day,

diamond and gold

studs or gold ball earrings.

Silk shirts. Classic, Conservative, Elegant.

Key words Fit. Cut. Investment.

Must be natural

fibers.

for evening.

Thin gold

Working Wardrobe

177

Gail Serfaty
Gail Serfaty
gives

them a

is

woman who always prefers to wear dresses, but she

buy my clothes, make changes," says

one working

special touch.

"As soon as

the assistant curator of the State Department. "I

often change

one.

Or add

all

of the buttons.

Or I may

buy mostly

dresses,

and

I'll

take off a collar and put on an old lace

a silk flower, or change a belt. That

way

give them their

own

look." She chooses dark colored clothes that are pretty but practical, working

around a color scheme of navy and beige. She prefers dresses that have wide
sleeves so she can

move

her arms easily, and

any problems. Her favorite

fabrics

thetics that are crease-resistant

often slip

full skirts

have the look of

so she can bend without

silk

but are

made

of syn-

and washable. For business meetings,

on a jacket or cardigan sweater

to give her dress

she'll

an even more

finished look.

When

she shops, which

stores

and buys most of her things on

styling," she says.

longer."

"And

is

three or four times a year, she heads for the better

sale. "I

look for quality and for classic

find that better clothes are styled to stay in fashion

Shop Talk

SHOPPING WITH A PLAN

The following budget

offers a guideline for

comparison of designer, better and

moderate priced clothing. Please note that prices

may

vary from season to

season.

The manufacturers

listed represent

some

of the

names

in

each category.

Designer

Better

Moderate

Anne

Klein

Ciao

Century

Betty

Hanson

Devon

Hall

Chaus

Blassport

Diane Von Furstenberg

College-Town

Calvin Klein

Evan Picone

Evelyn

Friedericks Sport

Finity

Koret

Harve Bernard

J.

G. Hook

De Jonge

Lady Manhattan

L.

Sport

Jack Mulqueen

Regatta Sport

Kasper for Joan

Leslie

Jones

Schrader Sport

Nipon Boutique

Liz Claiborne

Summit

Stanley Blacker

Marisa Christina

Yves Jennet

Kasper for

J.

Budgeting

Capsule

180

Shop Talk

Whether you shop on your own or with someone

else's

guidance, be sure to

take along a personal checklist provided at the end of this chapter. This checklist

two

enumerates the twelve pieces you need for a working wardrobe Capsule:
jackets, three skirts, four blouses,

two sweaters, and one

approximate idea of what these twelve pieces might

dress.

cost, see the

To

get

Capsule chart. Remember, these twelve pieces will enable you to make at
forty different outfits, but

work with compatible

Capsules featured
Before

If

in

you must keep

shapes.

Chapter

1. It will

you buy anything, ask yourself

1.

Is it in

my

2.

Will

work with

3.

Is it

flattering to

4.

Is

well

5.

Will

it

it

it

two colors

to the

You might even

least

your Capsule and

take along a chart for one of the

you

give

of

an

Budgeting

good guideline

to follow.

these five important questions:

Capsule colors?

made

help

you can answer yes

ing cohesive Capsules,

me

the other pieces in

my

Capsule?

me?

so that

it

will last?

project the look

to these questions,

and you

will

want

you

will

for myself?

way to constructown working wardrobe.

be on your

be building your

Wardrobe Checklist
Capsule Colors:

Acessories Checklist
Capsule Colors:

r'**sN

Chapter 7

FINDING YOUR
INDIVIDUAL
STYLE
T,

he Capsule Concept can be applied to your wardrobe,

no matter what your personal

style.

own. Not only does

you

that give

proach to shopping. Once you

money by heading

just for the

But

it is

important to develop a style of your

a signature, but

know your own

also affords

it

looks that say "you."

One

you an easy ap-

you can save time and

look,

watched a well dressed man

tried

them

on, looked at himself in the mirror, and then rejected them, remarking to his

com-

one day trying on coats

panion,

"It

didn't say 'hello'."

will recognize

To
tic,

department

in a

it

at

try

The Romantic adores flowered

femininity.

it

Her

it

on, and

it

he

is,

you

categories: the

Roman-

and the Modernist.

patterns

and flowing, graceful

tends to have ruffles, pleats, embroidery or

skirts are full,

look

indeed, say "hello."

will,

have divided looks into four

the Pragmatist, the Individualist,

buys a blouse

after another,

When you know what your very own

once when you

simplify styles of dress,

store.

her hair

soft,

and her

styles.

some

When

she

extra detail of

accessories flowers

and

Finding Your Individual Style

186

cameos. She pictures herself as a

O'Hara

in

Gone With

girl

on a

The Romantic might wear

or an actress.

hill in

a Renoir painting or as Scarlett

Wind. She might choose a career

the

the Capsule

on page

as a ballerina, a poet

B Blouse

19, jacket

G Skirt E.
The Pragmatist feels comfortable with practical, versatile clothes with classic
tailoring. Her blouses might have convertible collars, her jackets are usually
blazers,

and her

tified

modified

skirts are

geometries or paisleys.

in their slimness. If she

with the role of Faye

Dunaway

in the

pieces

The

on page

L and

and give her a

that she can

wear

an

artist,

If

comfortable

totally

She

would be her choice

Capsule on page

may be

collarless so

She tends to

solid colors

for a career.

19, jacket

The

if

she were

A painter,

Individualist

would be

A sweater K blouse skirt

I

D.

takes a contemporary approach to her clothing, preferring looks

She enjoys seeing the trends

wrap her waist

may

wear the

to carry off her favorite

would admire Isadora Duncan,

experiment with the ideas of designers. She

her jackets,

contemporary

model from the pages

fashion photographer, like the

C blouse J skirt

in fashion

may pad

magazines, and

her shoulders, belt

to give her clothing the latest look, or experiment with

see herself as the

Slims, as a fashion

Jacket

likely

and she may choose one color or one accent as

she were a dancer, she

that are fashion forward.

color.

enough

unique look. Her blouses

different scarves or unusual necklaces.

in the

The Modernist
likes to

she were in a

if

of the Year. Ex-

Louise Nevelson, and as a fashion leader, Diana Vreeland.

writer, or a chef

they are

jacket C, to reflect her business image.

to set off her favorite acquisitions,

her signature.

Woman

banker are the careers she might choose. She'd

19, dress

Individualist prefers fashions that are simple

accessories

prints,

movie, Network, and

movie, a play, or the corporate world, she'd be the

ecutive, lawyer or

wears

she wears any accessories, they are the basics. She iden-

If

title

of

woman

in the

ads for Virginia

Vogue or Bazaar, or even

role in Eyes of

Laura Mars. She's

F from the Capsule on page 19.

as the

likely to

wear

Chapter 8

PLANNING
YOUR CAPSULE
I, Capsule Concept

as

many

dresses) as

another
only

he

provides flexibility so that you have

pieces in each category (skirts, pants, jackets, blouses, sweaters,

you

may

skirts,

like.

While one twelve piece Capsule may have one

include two, and another

while another

your preferences.

may

may have

include pants.

three.

jacket,

One Capsule may have

Your Capsules should

reflect

A variety of charts have been included in this Chapter so that

you may work out

different Capsules based

on your own needs.

Working Capsule
Will

work with

/.

Working Capsule
Will

work with

Evening Capsule
Will

work with

Three

Day

Travel Capsule
Trip

One-Week Convention

Travel Capsule

Capsule

Essential Accessories

Shoes

Handbag
Briefcase

Belts

Scarves*

Watch
Earrings

Necklace
Bracelet

Index

INDEX
A

Color

Abraham &

Straus,

165

Accessories, 34, 36, 40, 48, 54, 60-91,

125-126, 132- 133, 135, 142, 145-146,

151, 158, 160

Conde

Profile,

Quiz, 40-41

Nast, 57

Cosmetics, 52-53, 69, 151

Adolfo, 110

Dickstein, Barbara, 97, 99

159
Armani, Giorgio, 94
Art, wearable, 86

DiGiacomo, Mary, 106, 175

Dior, Christian, 94

Ardert, Elizabeth,

Beene, Geoffrey, 61, 100

Duncan, Isadora, 71

Working Wardrobe

Handbags, 34, 36, 40, 50, 58, 61-63, 69-

70, 81, 89, 106, 125, 133, 141, 151,

McFadden, Mary, 56

158

Magazines, Fashion, 164

& Garden

House

Magazine, 55

Harper's Bazaar Magazine, 131

Mademoiselle Magazine, 132

Vogue Magazine, 43

Makeovers, 32, 34, 38, 48, 64, 66,

Image, 93-114

102, 104, 120, 122, 147, 149, 166, 168

Business, 30-32, 34, 38, 42-50, 71,

Makeup, 52-53, 144

93-96, 102

Marshall Field

Nobility, 97
Power, 112-114
Profile,

Co., 165

Merriman, Hanne, 55, 58-5 c

Milan, 60, 141, 142, 143
Missoni, 94, 142

Quiz, 106-107

Social Status, 97-104

108-111

Public, 95,

&

Maxim's, 29

Television, 160
Irka,

59

Necklaces, 48, 61, 81, 86, 108, 125, 142,

145, 151, 161

Jewelry, 48, 63-67, 80-81, 86-87, 101,

New

York Times, 140

108, 112, 125-126, 132-135, 142,

144-145, 151, 160

Jones of N.Y., 94

Pantyhose, 58, 61, 89

Paris, 29, 60, 141,

143

Parson, Trisha, 93

Karan, Donna, 80

Pearls, 81, 86, 125, 142,

Kieselstein-Cord, Barry, 101

Peretti, Elsa,

Kindel,

Picasso, Paloma, 101

Maureen, 112-114

160

Kissinger,

Henry, 97

Pins,

Kissinger,

Nancy, 97, 172

Pucci, Emilio,

Klein,

Anne &

99

Co., 28, 59, 61, 80, 100

Klein, Calvin, 59, 61, 94, 100, 111,

Knits,

145

101

132

110

R
Reagan, Nancy, 108-111
Roberts, Dot, 89-91

I
Lane, Kenneth Jay, 126

Lauren, Ralph, 59
Lesser, Tina,
Levis,

99

100

Luggage, 139-144, 146, 151-152

Luggage, carry-on, 141, 144, 146, 151
Luggage, hanging bag, 151, 158, 160

Sadat,

Anwar, 143

Saks Fifth Avenue, 69

Samuels, Susan, 134-136

Sawyer, Diane, 160-161

Scarves, 34, 48, 61-63, 66, 71-79, 81,

87-89, 104, 125, 145, 151, 158-161

Index

Shaker,

177

Serfaty, Gail,

Mona, 86-88

Tiffany's, 101

Shoes, 34, 36, 40, 48, 58, 61-69, 81, 88,

Travel

89, 125, 135, 141-142, 146, 151, 158

Itinerary, 140,

159

Shoppers, Personal, 165

Overnight, 132

Shopping, 163-180
Alterations, 173-174

Packing, 151-152

Dressing Rooms, 170

Fit,

Jane,

69

171-173, 175

Pockets, 171
Sales,

174-175, 176

Vuitton, Louis, 100

Silverman, Linda, 96

Smithsonian

Institution,

97

Sotheby's, 96
Sportwhirl, 99
St.

Weather, 140

Tuman,

Laurent, Yves, 87, 94

Stahl, Leslie,

Women, American

72

Style, Personal,

W
Watches, 48, 80, 81, 125, 142
Wilson, Trisha, 157-159

185

Wragge, B.H., 99

Council

of,

157

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I

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131

Discover die Capsule Concept,

You Choose 12 Clothing Pieces

in

2 Colors;

You Get 40 Combinations:

a Different Outfit Every Day
for 8 Weeks!

Learn how to:

Coordinate colors,

Mix & match jackets,

fabrics,

shapes

skirts, blouses,

sweaters, dresses
Build

upon and organize what you

already

own

Add flexibility to your wardrobe for

both day and night
Ada pt the capsule concept to your
personal life- style
Revitalize your image

Noted designer and fashion director

Janet Wallach shows you how you can:
Select styles that

fit

your taste and

figure

Avoid fads, yet not become trapped

"uniform"

in a

Buy

all-season, natural fibers for year-

round efficiency
Additional tips on:
Evening wear
Sensible travel wardrobes

Versatile accessories

Shopping know-how

Creating several capsules

Working Wardrobe

is

your key

to looking better, feeling

more con-

fident and moving up in social

and business life.

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