Johnson 3 HP Tune Up

Johnson 3 HP Tune Up
The first area we will approach is the ignition system. OMC used a "Universal" magneto on most all small
outboards from the early 50's right on up to just a few years ago. Over time the components on the earlier
models will deteriorate requiring replacement. Fortunately these components are very inexpensive.
This image shows the proper type of flywheel puller you need to remove
the flywheel. This can be rented form your local tool rental as a "steering
wheel" puller. DO NOT try to use any kind of puller on the outer diameter
of the flywheel as it will bend and destroy it.
Pictured is the stator plate removed from the powerhead, on the bench. Simply unhook any
advance linkages, unscrew 4 Phillips head screws closest to the center of the plate and lift it
off. As you can see in this picture the original ignition coils on this motor have deteriorated
and cracked insulation rendering them useless. You should replace these even if they look OK
as the newer ones we sell are far superior to OEM.
The powerhead with the magneto removed. Clean the breaker point cam
and the crankshaft taper with acetone or lacquer thinner to remove all
traces of oil. The crankcase head and the stator plate support should be
re-lubricated with molybdenum lubricant to help keep the plate from
rattling around as well as providing a good ground. IF this area is full of
grunge take it apart and clean and regrease. Use locktite on the screws.
Showing installation of the new coils. Lubricate the ends of the coil wires with some silicone grease like that
used on new high energy ignitions, install the small rubber boots and "roll" the coil onto the wire, making
sure it slips in and makes good contact with the pin in the coil. Align the coil heels with the machined
surfaces on the stator plate. This is VERY IMPORTANT as error here could cause the flywheel to strike the
coil heels, ruining the entire magneto. Be sure to install the cam wick under the coil on the irregularly
shaped boss. This lubes the breaker point arms, without it they will rapidly wear away.
To set the points, move the cam until the point arm follower is touching the cam at the "TOP" embossed
thereon. Set them at .020 with a feeler gauge cleaned of all oil with denatured alcohol, acetone or lacquer
thinner. The feeler gauge should slip out from between the point faces with a light resistance and the arm
should not appear to move when the gauge is removed. Care taken to set the points exactly the same will
result in a strong spark and a smooth running engine.
I have found the use of OMC Engine Tuner will clean the carburetor without
exposing you to caustics, has no unpleasant odor and it rinses away with water.
Similar products are available from other manufacturers. Just put the
carburetor in an old pan or suitable container and immerse for a short time to
remove all the deposits and rinse with water, blow out with compressed air.
The carburetor should be upgraded with a kit even if it is clean. Today's

gasoline additives will destroy the cork float, rubber float valve tip, bowl
gasket and center standpipe seal in a short time. If your motor has rubber
fuel lines and a fuel pump these should be replaced with modern components
as well. Disassemble as far as practicable. If the center standpipe won't come
out that's cool. Just be sure to blow it clear.
The pen points to the low speed fuel calibration pocket. This area is where the
fuel and air mixture is controlled by the needle valve. Small holes are drilled
into the carburetor venture under here. I recommend you remove this soft plug
by using a small punch or screwdriver to puncture thru the soft aluminum and
twist to remove. Blow it out to remove any crud that may have accumulated. A
replacement plug is in the carb kit. Install it in the cavity convex side up and
tap it in the center to flatten and seal securely in the hole.
A proper float adjustment is critical to good performance. You must bend the
metal float tang (do not press down on the float valve) until the float is
parallel with the body casting as shown here. All older OMC carb float levels
are set in similar fashion.
Here the carburetor is all ready to replace on the motor. Be sure to install the
seal on the center standpipe in the middle of the carb body. Tighten the bowl
attach screws evenly and snug. The bowl gasket is thick and if you get carried
away you could break the bowl. Basic adjustments for just about all older
John-Rudes is 1 1/2 turns off seat for the low and 3/4 for the high speed
needle valves.
After a thorough cleaning of the entire exterior to remove 40 years of

accumulated dust and dirt, the carburetor was reinstalled on the motor. The
next item on the agenda is the head gasket. All older motors should have this
replaced for a couple of reasons. First is the materials that the older gaskets
are made of is inferior to the newer. Second, you need to examine the
cylinders and clean out the carbon accumulation from the combustion
chamber and exhaust ports. While the head is off, clean out any scale and
debris in the water jacket as well as the carbon from the piston tops and the
head. Use a soft brass brush or a putty knife with the corner rounded off.
Avoid scratching the pistons.
The cylinder head on most
of these little engines
gets warped and needs to
be surfaced. In order to
get the head flat, take a
sheet of 80 grit wet or dry
sandpaper and place it on
a flat surface. A piece of
plate glass or a plastic
cutting board are good
choices. Using a little
water and a figure 8
pattern work the head on
the paper until it is
showing clean metal all
across the face. Just so it
BEFORE:
AFTER:
touches, you don't have to

grind out every little flaw.
Do the same to the block
face with a mill file to get
any residual gasket
material off and a good
mating surface.
Reinstall the head to the motor. I use OMC gasket sealing compound on all the
bolts and around the water jacket to help seal the cooling system. DO NOT
put it on the area where the gasket seals to the cylinders. New head gaskets
are treated with a thermal sealer and need no additional compounds. DO NOT
use spray gasket sealers, Permatex, etc. on this surface. It is also important
to properly torque these bolts, starting from the center out in a circular
pattern. Do tighten the bolts in several stages to the proper torque for the
motor you are working on.
The gearcase on this small motor is attached with only 4 bolts and should drop right off. I found even
though this motor has little running time several problems in the water pump area. In the picture of the
pump components on the bench, the small ring by the old impeller is some plastic melted through the plate
and stuck to the drive shaft. You should NEVER run your motor out of the water as severe damage can
occur to the pump in just seconds on larger motors. Here the damage was minimal and I replaced this
plastic hubbed impeller with a brass hubbed one from my stock. This was also missing the small rubber O
ring that is used at the top to seal the splined area where the shaft fits into the crank. Without this it
would get rusty and soon wear out.
Clean the area where the stainless base plate is situated on the gearcase thoroughly to remove any old
sealer, corrosion, or debris in the water intake area. Chase the threads where the housing attaches with a
tap to clean out any corrosion. Examine the inside of the housing for wear, these wear the most in the
center around the driveshaft and will suck air here and run hot at idle. Lightly face off the housing to
remove any burrs, even if you are installing a new one. Of course this is unnecessary if you are working
with a larger motor and a plastic pump with a stainless liner. Be sure to apply some molybdenum grease to
the spline above the O ring. Without this the spline will wear out rapidly. Avoid excess and don't put any on
the flat top of the driveshaft.

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Johnson 3 HP Tune Up

The carburetor should be upgraded with a kit even if it is clean. Today's

After a thorough cleaning of the entire exterior to remove 40 years of

touches, you don't have to

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