MUFFN v2
MUFFN v2
MUFFN v2
WIRING DIAGRAM
100n
100n
For variants that state 2N5133 or 2N5088, the lower gain 2N5133 was original. You can use the higher gain 2N5088, but you must put a ~33K resistor in R25.
** The SPDT switch is for the standard builds clipping selector. If you wish to have Silicon Diodes, LEDs and clipping disabled options,
use an On-Off-On SPDT. If you dont want the clipping disabled option, use an On-On SPDT.
IMPORTANT NOTES
Transistors may require a different orientation on the PCB than what is marked, depending on which transistor
make/model is used. The board is printed showing the correct orientation for a Fairchild 2N5088. Since not all muffs use the
same transistor, it is critical that you check the datasheet for the transistor you are using, and verify the pin orientation.
Below are a few quick results from an internet search for some common muff transistors. As you can see, the Motorola
BC550C and Fairchild 2N5088 pin-outs are reversed from one another.
R25As noted at the bottom of the parts list, the 2N5133 was lower gain, in fact, the specs state the minimum gain as
60hFE, whereas the 2N5088 has a minimum gain of 300hFE. If you use a 2N5133, R25 should be a jumper. If you use a
2N5088 or other higher gain transistor, you will need to insert a resistor in R25 to keep the pedal from squealing when all
knobs are all turned completely up. 33K is a good value to start with. A stock Mayo calls for the 2N5133 and a 2k7 value in
R25, but this same guidance applies if you change transistors.
You may use different transistors than the ones listed for each variant for tonal differences, however, see the 2 bullet
points above. Socketing the boards transistor pads may be worthwhile if you plan to experiment with this. Transistors used
in muffs include 2n5088 (which is our personal favorite and is widely available), 2N5133, BC550C, BC549 and more. Some of
the transistors are out of production and may be more difficult to acquire (such as the 2n5133), and actually may not sound
as good to you as a widely available part.
Per DCountry13s GBOM documentation, Some say that the secret to all Muffs is using ceramic caps where values are
100nf and lower. The 220nf caps can be metal film caps. This is not a rule!
Commercial muff manufacturers are known to have slightly modified part values, even within a particular muff variant. We
collected values from various sources and put what we felt was the best or most accurate values in the table on the
previous page. You may find that some other sources vary from the above.
We tried hard not to overload you with too much information in this standard build document. The muff is one of the
most popular circuits of all time, there are a lot of variations, and there is a ton of information on the internet for those that
want to learn more.
Additional mods and tips will be provided in the advanced builders Muffn mod guide PDF, on the GuitarPCB.com website.
We may add more to that document over time as demand dictates.
STATUS LED
D5 is a common anode bi-color LED
The diagram above shows the pin-out, schematic symbol and pad
connection for a common anode LED. The pin-out for the
bi-color LED is as follows:
1st Color Cathode
Common Anode
2nd Color Cathode
The lead 1 pad on the circuit board is marked with a white box.
When connected correctly, the LED will light red when power is applied and the circuit is in bypass mode. The LED will light green
when in effects mode. If you wish to use a standard LED, connect the anode to pad 2 and the cathode to pad 3 to show the circuit in
effects mode.
DRILLING TEMPLATE
7
This drawing provides a general guide for drilling a 1290NS/1590B enclosure. Hole diameters are not exact in this image, so please
measure your components before selecting a drill bit. Locations are approximate, and may need to be adjusted for different
styles/models/brands of components, so verify before using. Use at your own risk. Be sure to make sure page scaling is turned off
when you print this PDF, or the image above may be smaller than expected. You may want to adjust the position of the stomp switch
and LED if you do not plan to install a battery snap. DC Power could be installed on the left side instead if preferred.
This document, PCB Artwork and Schematic Artwork GuitarPCB.com. Version 1 Schematic and PCB by
DCountry13. Version 2 Schematic (based on v1), PCB and this document by Bruce R. Use of PCB and schematic
artwork for any purpose other than to build a board purchased from GuitarPCB.com without written permission is
prohibited. Distribution of this document is prohibited without written consent from GuitarPCB.com. Trademarks
and brands mentioned above belong to their respective owners.