ADM4307 Apparel Manufacturing

By Dr. Su-Jeong Hwang Shin, Ph.D. Associate Professor

 Objectives:
Define stitch classifications, characteristics, and formation.
Identify seam classification, types, and uses.
Relate the properties of stitches and seams to production costs,
performance, and quality.
Examine functions, characteristics, and selection of sewing threads
and needles.
Examine the relationship between needles, thread, and fabric.
Analysis seam appearance and performance.
 Standards that defined stitches and seams:
The United States Federal Stitch and Seam Specification (Federal
Standard 751a) in 1965.
ASTM D 6193, Standard Related to Stitches and Seams

Definitions
A Stitch: is the configuration of the interlacing of sewing thread in a
specific repeated unit.
A Seam: is a line where two or more fabrics are joined.
A Stitching: consists of a series of stitches embodied in a material
for decorative purpose or finishing an edge.
 Stitch classification is based on:
Structure of the stitch
Method of interlacing stitch properties.

Stitch properties:
Relate to aesthetics and performance
Stitch size
Stitch length, width, and depth.
Thread tension
Stitch consistency.
 Stitch Length:
Stitches per inch (spi)
High spi
Short stitches: High quality
Potential problems (seam
pucker or weaken fabric).
Higher spi, the more time and
thread, high cost.
Low spi
Long stitches: Lower quality
Problems: Less durable,
snagging, abrasion, grin-
through
Fast, less thread, less cost.
Example:
mens shirts 22 spi vs. 8 spi
 Stitch width
(gauge)
Stitch Width:
Distance between the outermost
lines of stitches.

Refers to the horizontal span

covered in the formation of one
stitch.

Referred to as gauge, (inch)

Example: overedge, zigzag, and
cover stitches (1/4 inch)

Width dimensions require

multiple needles or lateral
movement of thread carriers:
Example: needle bars, loopers, or
spreaders.
 Depth:
Distance between the upper
and lower surface of the
stitch
Example:
Blind stitches (Curved
needle with lateral
movement)
 Stitch consistency
The uniformity with which each stitch is formed in a row of stitches.
There must be a compatibility of fabric, stitch and seam type, needle,
thread, and machine setting.
Thread tension
Thread tension affects stitch formation in 2 ways:
The balance of force on the threads that form the stitch.
The degree of compression on the fabric created by the threads as a stitch is
formed.
Too much tension, a tight thread causes:
Seam pucker, uneven stitches, unbalanced stitch formation weekend thread,
and potentially damaged fabric.
Too little tension causes:
Excessive looping or loose and uneven stitches.
Must have some tension in order for the stitch to form properly.
 Stitch classes (ASTM D 6193)
based on the type of thread formation by a sewing
machine
Example: a lock stitch machine (300 class)

Six classes of stitch types

100 Single thread chain stitch
200 hand stitch
300 lockstitch (formed with needle thread and bobbin)
400 Multi thread chain stitch
500 Overedge and safety stitch
600 Cover stitch or flat seam stitch
 Use Lockstitch
machines: 2 threads to
form a stitch.
(Needle thread + Lower
thread)
A rotary hook catches the
needle thread loop as it
passes around the
bobbin and interlocks the
2 threads.
Lockstitch machine is
good for versatility, but
time-consuming and
costly for an operator.
 The 301 lockstitch
(=Plain stitch or Straight
stitch)
See p. 432, Figure 14-2
The least amount of thread.
Flattest stitch, reversible.
Used for top stitching
The tightest and most secure
stitch
For setting zippers and
pockets.
The 301 is not for elastic or
knit fabrics, or bias seams.
 Zigzag lockstitches (304)
Examples:
Used to sew athletic wear
Appliqus, attach lace on
lingerie, and faggooting.
Decorative stitching.
Used to make bar tacks
Buttonholes.
 Lockstitch blind stitches
306, 313, 314
Example uses:
For linings, the inside
components of waist bands
for mens dress slacks.
 The class 100 chain stitches,
with the assistance of
spreader, are formed when
1 or more needle threads
pass through the fabric and
form a loop on the
underside of the fabric.
No lower thread !
Single thread chain stitch is
an intra-looping formation.
Loop formation allows good
elongation and stretch and
makes unraveling easy.
 The 101 chain stitch
See p. 431, Figure 14-2
See <Sample>
Pulling a loose thread may
easily unravel.
Examples:
For closing bags of sugar/ Bar
tacks
Shirring
Buttons
Buttonholes
 The 103 chain stitch
(=Blind stitch machine)
See <Sample>
A types of blind stitches
formed by curved needle,
single needle thread, and
spreader to form the loops.
Examples:
For the hem,
Tailored jacket lapels
Belt loops of dress slacks.
 The 104 chain stitch
(=Machine saddle stitching)
See p. 431, Figure 14-2

Examples:
Decorative stitching on
western wear
Pleated skirts.
 Stitch class 400 (Multithread
chain stitch) required 1 or
more needle threads that
form loops as they pass
through the fabric and
inter-loop with the looper
thread on the underside.
Compare to the 100 class,
The 400 class is more
durable and used
extensively on apparel.
The 400 class use upper
needle thread and a looper
to carry the lower thread.
 The 401 Two-thread chain
stitch
= Double-locked chain stitch
See p. 433, Figure 14-2
See <Sample>
Appearance is the same as the
101, but the 401 has a loop
formation on the underside and
More durable.
The chain stitch elongates when
extended.
Example uses:
Good for setting elastic in waist
bands or decorative stitching on
belts.
Parallel rows of stitches for
lapped side seams of woven
shirts and jeans.
 The 402 cording stitch
2 needle threads that
produce two parallel rows of
stitching on the face of the
fabric.

Examples:
Used for stitching permanent
creases
 The 404
Zigzag chain stitch:
More elastic than 401 Two-
thread chain stitch.
Example uses:
Decorative stitching
Attaching curtain to the
inside of the waist band.
 The 406 and 407
Cover stitches:
See <Sample>

Examples:
The 406 is used to form hems
on knit garments, necklines
of T-shirts, and attach
bindings on mens briefs.

The 407 is similar except 3

needle threads and has more
stretch. (e.g. for
undergarments).
 The 500 overedge stitch
(=Overedge, overlock, serge,
overcast, or merrow)
Overedge machines trim the edge of
fabric and form stitches over the cut
edge.
A pair of knives and 3 stitch forming
devices; a needle to carry the thread
through the fabric, a looper or
spreader to carry the thread from the
needle to the edge of the material on
the bottom, and a looper or spreader
to carry thread up and over the
edge of the material on the top.
High thread users and stretch.
Chain off the stitching. (continuously
run after the fabric)
 Odd numbered (501, 503)
Break open stitches.
Example uses:
Edge finishes and hems
rather than for seams.

Even numbered stitch types

(502, 504)
Much tighter needle thread,
hold 2 layer fabrics at actual
seam line.
 The 503, 504 and 505 for
Serging.
See <sample>
The 503
1 needle, 1 looper thread
for blind hemming and serging,
hems on T-shirts, and serging
the seams of dress slacks.
The 504
1 needle, 2 looper threads
Seams for knit garments, the
most common.
The 505
Box edge stitch
For Serging.
 The 512 and 514
Mock safety stitches
For seaming knits and
woven.
4 threads
(2 needle threads, 2 looper
threads).
The 514: Stronger and more
elastic and chains off better
than 512.
 The 515, 516, 519
Safety stitches
Combination of an overage
stitch and a 401 chain stitch.
Example uses:
Shirts, jackets, blouses, and
jeans
 The 521:
Excellent elasticity and
strength for seaming
hosiery.
 Stitch class 600 Cover stitch
(= Flat-lock or flat seam
stitches)
2 or more needle loops,
inter-looping on the
underside, and interlocking
on the upper side.
Machines are fast and
efficient.
 The 602, 605, and 607
Strong, elastic stitches to
cover raw edges and prevent
raveling.
Example uses:
knits and lingerie
The 607 for infants panties
 Seams (3 dimensions): Seam length, width, and depth
Affect garment quality, performance, and costs.
Seam length:
Is the total distance covered by a continuous series of stitches. (e.g. shoulder
seam)
Seam length is a factor in determining stitch types.
Seam width:
Width of a seam allowance
Measured from the cut edge of fabric to the main line of stitches.
Wider seam allowances may increase cost.
The seam heading of a top stitched seam.
The distance from the folded edge of the top ply to the first line of
stitches.
A header reduces the strain on the cut edge of fabrics and makes the
seam stronger.
Seam depth:
Is the thickness or flatness of a seam, which are major factors in appearance
and comfort of a garment.
 ASTM D 6193 standard practice for
stitches and seams
4 seam classes and 2 stitching classes
(See p. 442, Table 14-1)
Line drawings of seam types
(See p. 443, Table 14-3).
Line drawings represent cross sections
of a seam.
Each long line: a piece of fabric.
SSa (Side Seams of skirts)
The short lines: penetration of the needle
and lines of stitches.
Curve lines: a connecting thread between
two lines of stitching. (Example: EFd: Edge EFd (Edge finish, serging)
finish, serging)
 Superimposed seam (SS) SSa:
class Side seams
Joining 2 or more pieces
fabric with seam allowance SSb:
edges even. Finishing belt ends,
Stitches: Sewn with a lock attaching elastic to waistline
stitch, chain stitch, overedge
stitch, or safety stitch. SSc:
Examples: Side seams Ends of waistbands on jeans
SSd:
Seaming, but not widely
used.
SSa (Side Seams of skirts) SSe:
Collars or cuffs, seamed and
topstitched.
 Lapped seam (LS) LSa:
2 or more pieces of fabric Vinyl and leathers
joined by overlapping at the
needle. LSb:
Some are used to reduce the Attaching curtain to
amount of bulk; others for waistband of mens dress
durability, or appearance. slacks.
Stitches: lockstitch or chain
stitch (NOT an overedge LSc:
stitch) Side seams of dress shirts
Examples: attaching front
and jeans
bands to shirts, setting LSd:
pockets, and sewing side
seams of quality dress shirts, Attaching patch pockets and
side seams or inseams of overlay yokes.
jeans, etc.
LSe:
Attaching yokes
 Bound seam (BS) BSa:
One piece of fabric or Edges bound with ribbon or
binding. braid
Stitches: Lockstitch, chain
stitch, or cover stitch (NOT BSb:
an overedge stitch). T-shirt necklines or sleeve
Examples: To finish edges or edges with knot trim.
garments ,necklines, short, BSc:
sleeve on T-shirts, sleeveless
tank tops with binding. Neckline or front edges
bound with bias-woven
material.
BSd:
Seaming and binding
BSe:
Seaming and binding
 Flat seam (FS): FSa:
Sewing together two butted Raglan seams of sweatshirts.
pieces of fabric, not
overlapping FSb:
Stitches: wide 600 class Sweatshirts and underwear.
(Cover stitches)
FSc:
Examples: sweatshirts,
lingerie, and long Seams of support garments
underwear. FSd:
Sweatshirts and underwear

FSe:
Sweatshirts and underwear
 Edge Finishing (EF) EFa:
Single piece of fabric. Single-fold hem
(may be folded in a
variety of ways). EFb:
Stitching encompasses a Double-fold hem
cut edge or provides a
finish for a single ply of EFc:
fabric with a folded- T-shirt hem
edge.
EFd:
Edge finish, serging

EFe:
Ornamental edge finish
 Ornamental stitching (OS) OSa:
Single piece of fabric. (may be Decorative sitting on jean
folded in a variety of ways). pockets
Examples: For decorative
purpose. Jeans pockets, OSb:
embroidered logos, etc. Decorative stitching with
cording insert
OSc:
Raised stitching without cording
insert for backs of gloves.
OSd:
Raised stitching, cording
between 2 plies of material
OSe:
Pin tucks on font of blouse.
 An example of a specification
401 LSc-2:

2 independent rows of stitches

The type of seam

The seam class (Example: Lapped Seam)

Identifies the stitch class and type

(Example: two thread chain stitch)
 An example of a specification

Example:
Stitch type: 406 Cover seaming stitch (see p. 433)
Seam class: BS (Bound seam)
 Mac1427f
Yoke
Pocket 1 2 (pocket piece and thread)

Operation breakdown:
Determines the sequence of
Hem pocket Assembly (list of steps)
16
301 EFb

Attach pocket to shirt front

16
301 LSd
Stitch pencil pocket
16
301 LSb1
 Mac1427f

8 6
Attach yoke to shirt back and fronts Stitch hem
16 spi: 16
Back 301 LSbp, front 301 LScf Stitch/Seam type: 301 EFb
None None
Final assembly Attach collar band to shirt neck Stitch buttonholes
(shirts) 16
301 LSar; 301 LScn
spi: dense but not overlapping
Stitch/Seam type: 301 Lock stitch
None None
Attach sleeves to shirt body Attach button
16 spi: 8 stitch per hole set
Single needle tailoring 401 LSaw Stitch/Seam type: 301 Lock stitch, cross-stitch pattern
None None
Sew side seams Trim threads
16
Lapped seams 401 LSc
None
Form pressed

Final assembly
(Pants)
Match buttons and thread to fabric
Side seam Commercial match
Attach Zipper Uniform stitches and no seam puckers on topstitching collar, cuffs, pocket; 16 spi.
No differential shrinkage
Inseam Salable appeal to young men
Crotch seams
Stitch Hem
Waist band
 Fiber content
Cotton thread vs. Synthetic fibers
Example: comparison of cotton and polyester threads (See p. 458)

Thread structure
Spun yarns vs. Filament thread

Twist
S twist vs. Z twist
S twist thread tends to untwist during stitch formation.

Ply
Color matching
Finishes
e.g. mercerized cotton threads increase strength, luster, and dye-ability.

Thread size
Ticket number (T) or Tex system.
Based on the gram weight of 1,000 meters of un-dyed sewing thread.
 Relationships between
thread and needle size (See
p. 461)
The finer threads require
smaller needle eyes and
finer needles.
Examples:
For the fabric 2 to 4 oz,
thread size (T16 to T 24).
 Seam appearance
Drapeability of a seam.
Consistent stitch and seam formation
Seam flatness
Seam pucker: Just after sewing or after laundry.
Feed pucker:
Is caused by the resistance or drag of the presser foot on the top ply. If
the fabric on the bottom is fed more rapidly than the top ply, the bottom
fabric puckers.
Tension pucker:
Is caused by too much tension on the sewing thread.
Tight tension settings on upper or lower thread.
Displacement pucker or jamming
Occur when More stitch per inch (spi), higher count fabrics, finer
fabrics, and thicker sewing thread.
Solution: Finer thread and a smaller needle, using fewer spi.
Moisture pucker:
may occur with final steaming or pressing.
 Seam performance (properties) related to fabric
characteristics, selection of stitch and seam types,
thread type and size and density of stitches (spi).
Seam properties
Seam elasticity (2 factors)
Elongation
Recovery (the return of the seam to its original length)
Example: Swimsuit (seam elasticity for the fabric)
Strength:
Determined by resistance to pulling force and abrasion.
Flexibility:
Affects the drapeability, comfort and abrasion resistance of
apparel.