Andalucia Travel Guide
Andalucia Travel Guide
Andalucia Travel Guide
CABO DE GATA
RONDA
WAYNE WALTON
KARL BLACKWELL
CDIZ
JOHN ELK III
SEVILLE BEDA
8 L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M
PATRICK SYDER
GETTING
STARTED
ANDALUCA
performances (p50)
30 86 75
4 100
Swish new tram service
around Seville (p62) 20 68 50
2 50
La Moraga, Dan Garcas 10 50 25
KARL BLACKWELL
TOP Whitewashed walls and terracotta rooftops in Cdiz province BOTTOM LEFT Semana Santa
celebrations, Seville BOTTOM RIGHT Vino dulce in Ronda FAR RIGHT Take to the waves in Tarifa
L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M 9
ACCOMMODATION
One of the highlights of visiting Andaluca is its architecture, and many of the regions
hotels are architectural gems in their own right. Centuries-old mansions and palaces
have been converted into stunning places to stay, sometimes re-creating old-world
decor or the aesthetics of Islamic Al-Andalus, but just as often revelling in ultramod-
ern yet aordable luxury. A touch more modest perhaps, but the cool, whitewashed
walls of Andalusian towns and villages conceal hotels of more rustic charm, often with
high levels of comfort. For more on Andalucas accommodation, turn to p378.
DIEGO LEZAMA
THINGS TO TAKE
Michelins No 578 Andaluca
map (see p406)
Warning triangles and a re-
flective jacket if youre going
by car (see p420)
Lonely Planets Spanish
Phrasebook
A compact pair of binoculars
for wildlife-watching
Clothes to cope with cold
snaps between October and
May
WEBLINKS
ANDALUCA TE QUIERE (www.andalucia.org) Encyclopedic ocial tourism site
OK SPAIN (www.okspain.org) Another useful ocial site
ANDALUCIA.COM (www.andalucia.com) Excellent privately run site
LONELY PLANET (www.lonelyplanet.com/spain/andalucia) Build your own itinerary
IBERIA NATURE (www.iberianature.com) Devoted to Spains natural world
10 L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M
BRUCE BI
FESTIVALS
& EVENTS
ANDALUCA
TOP Hermandad (brotherhood) penitent with candle in hand as part of Semana Santa proceedings in Seville
RIGHT Riding a horse as part of the family-friendly celebrations at the Feria de Abril
L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M 11
BRUCE BI
CULTURE
ANDALUCA
BOOKS FLAMENCO
THE ORNAMENT OF THE Flamenco is the sound of Andaluca. Sometimes
WORLD (Maria Rosa Meno- melancholy, sometimes joyful, but always soulful,
cal) A fascinating look at the flamenco has become a byword for the passions
tolerance and sophistication of of Andalusian life. Youll hear it across the region,
the region during Andalucas from beautifully tiled Seville patios to renovated
Islamic centuries. Arab-era water cisterns in Almera. But its true
home is around Seville, Jerez de la Frontera and
SOUTH FROM GRANADA
Cdiz: its in their working-class barrios Jerezs
(Gerald Brenan) An acutely
Barrio de Santiago or Cdizs Barrio de Santa
perceptive account of village
Mara where flamenco stays true to its roots.
life in Las Alpujarras during
Thats not to say that flamenco is stuck in the
the 1920s.
past. The flamenco stars of the 1980s pioneered
DRIVING OVER LEMONS some wonderful flamenco fusion and nuevo fla-
(Chris Stewart) The entertain- menco that continue to breathe new life into the
ing, anecdotal, bestselling tale flamenco world. But its in the smoky peas as
of life on a small Andalusian much meeting places for flamenco aficionados
farm in Las Alpujarras. as for live performances that youll most likely
catch its spirit. See p354 for more.
TALES OF THE ALHAMBRA
(Washington Irving) Enchant-
PAUL BERNHARDT
TOP Semana Santa procession, Seville BOTTOM An evening of flamenco in Cdiz RIGHT The bullring at
Ronda is considered the regions finest FAR RIGHT The grandeur of typical bullfighting posters
L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M 13
WITOLD SKRYPCZAK
KARL BLACKWELL
HP CANADA / ALAMY
CULTURE
ANDALUCA
BULLFIGHTING
Love it or loathe it, bullfighting runs deep through Andalusian culture. Like flamen-
co that other internationally renowned Spanish pastime bullfighting was born
in Andaluca with its heartland around Ronda, which is still home to Spains most
striking plaza de toros (bullring). As cruel as it may seem to outsiders, bullfighting
continues to be embraced by many Andalusians who see it as an important cultural
patrimony, a form of art and theatre and an important industry that spans bull
breeders to the restaurants serving rabo de toro (bulls tail stew). Corridas (bullfights)
run from Easter to October. For more, see p363.
TOP The interior of a cave dwelling in Guadix, Granada province RIGHT Riders on parade at the Feria del
Caballo in Jerez de la Frontera
L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M 15
RURAL CASTLES
Almodvar del Ro Eight-towered castle, just west of Crdoba (p217)
Castillo de los Guzmn Falcons nest in this 15th-century fortress (p83)
Castillo de Miramonte Islamic-era ruin with sweeping views over northern Cr-
doba province (p219)
Castillo de La Calahorra Formidable yet with a graceful courtyard (p271)
Antequeras Alcazaba A favourite of Granadas rulers and still splendid (p185)
Castillo de Vlez Blanco Sixteenth-century castle clinging to the summit (p309)
DAVID TOMLINSON
16 L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M
RAFAEL ESTEFANA
FOOD &
DRINK
ANDALUCA
TOP Freshly caught sardines BOTTOM Andalucas prized jamn (ham) RIGHT Breakfast Andaluca-style
FAR RIGHT Gazpacho, a local soup served cold, is the perfect antidote to the hot weather
L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M 17
TOP RESTAURANTS
CAF DE PARS Michelin-starred chef Jos Carlos Garca creates breathtaking
nouvelle cuisine (p169).
RESTAURANTE TRAGABUCHES Daniel Garca not only has a Michelin star, but
a weird-and-wonderful way with food (p181).
LA CASA DEL NGEL Astonishing fusion of Andalusian and Arab flavours (p170).
LOS COLONIALES Sevilles best tapas bar, bar none (p58).
SABORES Local staples with creative twists and standing ovations for the chef (p132).
DIANA MAYFIELD
FOOD &
DRINK
ANDALUCA
JAMN
Its often said that in Andaluca they eat every part of the pig except the walk. But
special devotion is reserved for jamn (cured ham) from the Jabugo region (Huelva
province). A bar where the ceiling is obscured by dozens, even hundreds of hanging
hams is one of the most recognisable images of Andaluca, although not all hams
are created equal. At a minimum go for a jamn ibrico, and at least once order
the jamn ibrico de bellota, the king of Iberian hams, to see just what all the fuss is
about. For more on jamn, see p370.
TOP Barrels of sherry await sampling at the bodegas of Jerez de la Frontera RIGHT Groves of olives surround
the pretty pueblo blanco (white village) of La Iruela in the Sierra de Cazorla
L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M 19
SHERRY
One of Spains most celebrated gastronomic exports, sherry is a way of life in the three
towns in Cdiz province El Puerto de Santa Mara, Sanlcar de Barrameda and Jerez
de la Frontera which make up the Sherry Triangle. Even Jerezs name is intricately
tied to the drop: The Muslims originally called the town Scheris, from which the
words Jerez and sherry are both derived. Today, many families in the three towns
are descendants of British wine traders who intermarried with locals after the winer-
ies began producing their iconic brands Tio Pepe, Sandeman, Osborne, Terry and
Harveys, to name a select few in the 1830s. The secrets lie in the regions chalky soils
and a complicated maturing process. To learn more about sherry, see p373.
ROBIN CHAPMAN
OUTDOORS
ANDALUCA
TOP The wide expanse of the Costa de la Luz BOTTOM Cooling o at the beach in Cabo de Gata RIGHT
Scaling the heights at El Chorro gorge FAR RIGHT The endangered Iberian lynx, Parque Nacional de Doana
L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M 21
JOSE B. RUIZ/NATUREPL.COM
ANDERS BLOMQVIST
KARL BLACKWELL
OUTDOORS
ANDALUCA
BIRDWATCHING
Andaluca lies along the main route for migrating bird species between Europe and
Africa and hundreds of thousands of species, including 80% of Europes wild ducks,
pass the winter in the regions wetlands. Andaluca also has its share of endemic
species and is particularly known for its raptors: the black vulture (Europes largest
bird), golden eagle, grion vulture, Egyptian vulture and the Spanish imperial eagle,
while the bearded vulture or lammergeier is making a human-assisted comeback.
Storks and flamingos are easier to find, but they nonetheless rank among birdwatch-
ings most rewarding sights. For more on Andalucas birds, see p346.
TOP Take advantage of the perfect kitesurfing conditions at Tarifa, Cdiz province RIGHT The iconic
limestone form of the Rock of Gibraltar looms large over visitors to the Bay of Algeciras
L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M 23
ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION
Andaluca leads the way when it comes to environmental protection in Spain almost
one-fifth of its territory is protected in some way. But Andalucas regional government
has favoured a pragmatic approach to wilderness areas, with a sliding scale of public
access. Only two areas Parque Nacional de Doana and Parque Nacional Sierra
Nevada have full-on national park status with strictly controlled access, while most
protected areas are parques naturales (natural parks): there are 24 of these and there are
often villages and public walking trails within their boundaries. Permits are sometimes
required to visit the natural parks, but the emphasis is on recognising that wilderness
areas are to be enjoyed as much as protected. For more information, see p345.
LANDFORMS
Andalucas rugged coastline and equally rugged, mountain-spined interior contain
some extraordinary natural landforms that invite either awe or up-close exploring.
Rock of Gibraltar: one of the soaring Pillars of Hercules (p150)
Mulhacn: at 3479m, mainland Spains highest peak (p275)
Cabo de Gata: wild and semi-desert coast unspoiled by the human hand (p301)
Paraje Natural Torcal de Antequera: weird, wonderful limestone formations (p187)
Garganta del Chorro: sheer rock walls and a gorge half-a-kilometre deep (p182)
WITOLD SKRYPCZAK
24 L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M
JON DAVISON
FAMILY
TRAVEL
ANDALUCA
TOP See how the west was won, Almera-style, at one of Andalucas movie sets
28 L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M
THE AUTHORS
ANTHONY HAM
Coordinating Author, Cdiz & Gibraltar
Anthony lives in Madrid but spends almost two
months of every year in and around El Puerto de Santa
Mara. Whenever he can, he heads across the water to
Cdiz, one of his favourite cities in Spain, and can be
found frequenting the wonderful seafood restaurants
of El Puerto.
STUART BUTLER
Seville, Huelva
Stuarts first taste of Andaluca was many years ago
during a school trip to Parque Nacional de Doana,
which he decided was the very definition of the word
exotic. The only change now is that he applies this
definition to the whole region and he considers Seville
his favourite European city. Despite this, home for
Stuart is the Basque Country on the opposite side of
the peninsula, though he returns to Andaluca as much
as possible.
VESNA MARIC
Mlaga, Crdoba, Jan
Vesnas love for Andaluca grows with every visit. She
travels to the region at least four times a year, continu-
ing to discover new places, recipes and beaches, and
family and close friends in Mlaga, Cdiz, Granada
and Seville make sure that Andaluca now feels like a
second home.
ZORA ONEILL
Granada, Almera
Zora studied 11th-century Andalusian Arabic poetry in
graduate school, but finds the cultural mix of modern-
day southern Spain much more intriguing mostly
because it involves eating. Usually a city mouse, she
developed a fresh appreciation for the outdoors and
for the nourishing power of ham while hiking in the
Alpujarras for this guide. Zora has written guidebooks
since 2003; this is her third title for Lonely Planet. She
lives in Queens, New York City.
JOHN NOBLE
History
John, originally from Englands Ribble Valley, has lived in
the provinces of Mlaga and Cdiz since the mid-1990s
and explored Andaluca from end to end but still finds
its nooks and crannies endlessly intriguing to investigate.
Every little village and valley reveals more about Anda-
lucas story, which becomes more fascinating the more
one delves into it. John and his wife Susan Forsyth, who
died in 2008, wrote the first two editions of this guide
together, and were authors on all subsequent editions.
ITINERARIES
AL-ANDALUS HEARTLAND
10 DAYS // SEVILLE, CRDOBA & GRANADA // 300KM
Seven centuries of Islamic rule in Andaluca bequeathed to the region some of Europes
most exotic architecture. Begin in Seville (p34), with jewels such as the Alczar (p44),
and the monumental Gothic cathedral
and Giralda (p40), the citys great mosque
and minaret in Islamic times. Northeast
of Seville, Crdobas Mezquita (p201) is
one of the worlds most beautiful mosques.
The nearby Judera (p207) and the caliphs
Medina ^#^
# ## Crdoba palace Medina Azahara (p209), to the west
Azahara
just outside the city, are also significant
^
##
Seville # ^
# Granada landmarks to Al-Andalus. Granada (p247),
southeast of Crdoba, is watched over by
the peerless magnificence of the Alhambra
MEDITERRANEAN (p254) and its exquisite Generalife gardens.
ATLANTIC SEA
OCEAN Just across the valley, the Albayzn (p260)
is Andalucas best-preserved old Islamic
quarter.
L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M ITINERARIES 31
ITINERARIES
EASTERN DELIGHTS
TWO WEEKS // EASTERN ANDALUCA // 580KM
Mlaga (p157) spans Islamic Al-Andalus and the Reconquista (Christian reconquest)
period and is the perfect place to start your eastern exploration. The monumental Castillo
de Gibralfaro (p164), gorgeous Alcazaba
palace (p166), massive cathedral (p163) and
Museo Picasso (p164) are Mlagas signa-
ture sights. Head north to the historic gem of
#^
Baeza ^ # beda # #
Antequera (p184), home to 30 churches and
prehistoric dolmens (p186). Northeast of
#
^ #
Jan Antequera, past Jan (p221) and its Castillo
de Santa Catalina (p228), are the exquisite
Renaissance towns of Baeza (p230) and
# Granada
^ #
beda (p234). On your way south, pause in
# Antequera
^ #
Almera
#
^
Granada (p247) en route to Almera (p290)
#
#
^ #
Cabo de
and see the citys Alcazaba (p291), one of
Mlaga Gata Andalucas finest fortresses. End your tour
MEDITERRANEAN
SEA of the east on the beaches of the dramatic
Cabo de Gata (p301) coastline.
Strait of
Gibraltar
ITINERARIES 32 ITINERARIES L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M
# El Roco
^ #
^
#
Sierra
#
has majestic topography and plenty of
^
# Parque
#
Nevada
Nacional visible large mammals deer, boar, mou-
de Doana flon and ibex. The summit, though, is the
MEDITERRANEAN Sierra Nevada (p272), an awesome high-
ATLANTIC SEA
OCEAN altitude wilderness with a 5000-strong ibex
population.
PUEBLOS BLANCOS
10 DAYS // WHITE VILLAGES // 450KM
The pueblos blancos (white villages) are among Andalucas most distinctive high-
lights. Begin in Granada (p247), whose whitewashed Albayzn (p260) is one of the
citys many charms. Southeast of Gra-
nada, the Sierra Nevadas southern flank
harbours the ancient white villages of
Las Alpujarras (p275) set among green
hillside orchards, thick woodlands and
Granada cascading streams. Dropping down to the
^
# #
Las coast, drive west to Mlaga (p157) then
Sierra de Alpujarras
Grazalema
Ronda
^
# #
northwest to the stunning cli-top town of
^
# #
^
# #
Arcos de la
^
# ^
# #
#
Ronda (p175 ). Further west, the Sierra de
Frontera Mlaga
Grazalema (p139) is magnificent country
# Vejer de la
^#
dotted with pretty white villages, beyond
Frontera MEDITERRANEAN
SEA which lies Arcos de la Frontera (p133).
Strait of Your journey ends away to the south in
Gibraltar
Vejer de la Frontera (p140), one of the
most beautiful white villages of all.
L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M ITINERARIES 33
ITINERARIES
BEST OF THE BEACHES
ONE TO TWO WEEKS // ALONG THE COAST // 675KM
Huelvas coast is one 100km-long sandy beach. Check out the superb beaches to be
found around Isla Cristina (p83). If you like the comforts and clamour of city life,
Cdiz (p116) has some of the best town
beaches in Andaluca. The Costa de la Luz
(p140), southeast of Cdiz, has seemingly
endless expanses of white sand and very
little development. The pick of a very fine
crop are El Palmar (p142), Los Caos
de Meca (p142), Zahara de los Atunes
(p142) and Tarifas Playa de los Lances
Parque Natural de
#
^#
Cabo de Gata- (p145). Fronting the Mediterranean, there
Isla Njar
Cristina ^
# are perfect beaches in charming little
#
Cdiz ^
# #
coves at Cala del Barranco, Cala Grande
El Palmar#^ Zahara de los Atunes
#
#^
^#
#
^
# #
#
MEDITERRANEAN and Cala Chica in the Parque Natural de
Los Caos Playa de SEA
de Meca los Lances Cabo de Gata-Njar (p301).
A GASTRONOMIC TOUR
TWO WEEKS // FOODIE HEAVEN // 1000KM
This culinary trail begins with seafood (p125) and manzanilla (p126) in Sanlcar de
Barrameda (p124). East of here, the seafood obsession dominates Romerijo (p123) in
El Puerto de Santa Mara (p119), while
the sherry bodegas (p130) of Jerez de la
Frontera are something special. Sevilles
tapas bars (p55) are legendary, especially
Crdoba # beda
^ Los Coloniales (p58). You cant help but
#
#
^ #
Seville
#
^ # Montilla the Bodegas Alvear (p217) in Montilla,
Granada ^
# Las or Andalucas best olive-oil mill (p213)
#
Sanlcar de Alpujarras
Barrameda Mlaga
^
#
#
^
in Baena; beda (p237) has terrific food.
#
#
#
^#
Jerez de la Almera
#
^ #
# Frontera
^ #
#
^ #
Arab-inspired flavours (p267) are a spe-
El Puerto de
Santa Mara
ciality of Granada, and the villages of Las
MEDITERRANEAN SEA Alpujarras (p279) have a cuisine all their
Strait of own. Down on the coast, Almera (p294)
Gibraltar
has free tapas, and Mlaga (p169) has some
of Andalucas most innovative restaurants.
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