A08012200E D en TPH400
A08012200E D en TPH400
A08012200E D en TPH400
400 Pump
1
Section 1
400 Pump Description
2
SJS 400 PUMP
The 400 pump is used in all phases of oilfield operation to pump water,
cement, fracturing fluids, and other stimulation fluids. The three main parts of
pump are (1)the power end, (2)the spacer, and (3)the fluid end.
Power End
The power-end assembly reduces speed, multiplies torque, and changes
rotary action into reciprocating action. It takes energy delivered by the engine
and transmission and changes it into energy that can be used by the fluid end.
Power ends are customized to meet job requirements and conserve space on
the trailer or truck unit. Cases are available in right- and left-hand versions. We
use Holroyd gear sets (8.6:1) for 400 pump.
Other customizing features include the following:
lube systems
companion flanges
worm- and ring-gear ratios
heat exchanger design
Spacer
On most pump configurations, a steel spacer assembly is used between
the fluid end and the power end. The spacer helps prevent fluids from
escaping from the fluid end into the power-end cavity (sump).
All new pumps require spacers. Fracturing pumps require L-2 spacers and
3
cement pumps require L-4 spacers.
Some spacers require push-rod noses uniquely designed to match the
fluid-end size used, while other spacers may use more than one type of wiper
gland.
Fluid End
The fluid end uses energy that has been modified by the power end to move
cement, fracturing mediums, and other liquids and materials.
The 400 pump fluid end, which is available in two sizes, can be customized for
many applications. The fluid end accepts a variety of discharge flanges and
plunger lubricators. Different lengths of plungers and tie bolts are used. A
variety of valve and seat combinations are available, and different springs and
inserts can be installed on these valves.
Design Features
The following features are unique to the 400 pump:
It can pump at pressures as high as 20,000 psi (137.6 MPa).
It is lightweight and compact, and can be airlifted into remote areas.
It provides high performance and long life.
It has three separate fluid-end sections that can be replaced individually.
4
Specifications and Data
The following pages contain lists and schematics of the 400. Tables 1.2
through 1.7 provide information regarding power-end and fluid-end
components, pump assembly weights, and discharge pressures. Table 1.7
(Page 1-26) provides pump dimensions.
Figure 1.10 provides general dimension data for the 400 pump.
5
Table 1.4Fluid End
Fluid-End Type Horizontal, triplex, three-piece forged steel
Plunger Type Single-acting, hard-surfaced
Valve Type Double-guided, carburized, high-contact
Valve Seats Carburized and replaceable
Pressure Packing CDI High performance packing
Discharge Flange (1) Blank, straight with one outlet or (2) ell with two
outlets
Oil System External; use air tank press
6
7
400 Duty Ratings
The following operation limits are based on experience working with the
400 pump in Halliburton pumping operations.
Warning: Do not exceed the operation limits listed for each gear.
Exceeding the operation limits can result in severe or
fatal injury as well as equipment damage.
8
RubberParts(Packing,Seals,etc.)ChemicalResistance
ServiceType FluidsPumped
Water
Cementslurries
Completions/Cementing
Drillingmud(water&oilbased)
Brines(NaCl,KCl,etc.)
Waterbasedfracfluids
Stimulation/Fracturing Acids(dilutehydrochloric,hydrofluoric,acetic
w/corrosioninhibitors)
Gelled(polymer)waterbasedfluids
Acids(dilutehydrochloric,hydrofluoric,acetic
CoiledTubing
w/corrosioninhibitors)
Drillingmud(water&oilbased)
RubberParts(Packing,Seals,etc.)ChemicalResistanceTables
AcetateSolv.,Pure X HydrocyanicAcid B
AceticAcid5% B LacticAcid B
AceticAcid10% B Toluene X
AceticAcid20% B Xylene X
AceticAcid30% B SulfuricAcid 10% C
AceticAcid50% A SulfuricAcid 30% C
AceticAcidGlacial X SulfuricAcid 50% C
HydrochloricAcid10% B SulfurousAcid X
HydrochloricAcid20% B DieselFuel A
HydrochloricAcid28% B CyanicAcid A
HydrochloricAcid37% C Petrolatum A
Alcohol A potash C
Aldehyde X SeaWater A
Benzene C Sewage A
Brine A SodiumNitrate C
CrudeOil X SodiumChloride A
PotassiumChloride A SulfurousAcid X
NOTES: A=Excellent,noeffect; B=Good,minoreffect;
C=Fair,datanotconclusive,testingrecommend;
X=Notrecommended.
Ratingsarebasedontestingatanambienttemperatureof70F.Customer
shouldtesttodetermineapplicationsuitability,Ifyouhaveanyquestionsplease
contactSJSEngineerDepartment.
9
SHIPPING AND STORAGE
All pumps are shipped dry and must be flushed and filled with the proper
Lubricant before operating. Pumps may be flushed with diesel or light oil.
When pumps are shipped by ocean cargo, care should be taken to crate the
pump in a watertight container and ship below deck to prevent saltwater
contamination.
New pumps are not prepared for long periods of storage and should be
put in service as soon as possible. To prepare a pump for storage after prior
use,clean the fluid end and flush it with a good rust preventive, Plug all fluid
end discharge and suction openings. Drain oil from power end, thoroughly
clean and flush with a good rust preventive that will not clog oil passages.
Remove crankcase breather and plug all openings. Coat the pinion extensions
and pony rods with a heavy rust preventive. Store pump inside, in a warm, dry
place.
*After store a period of time(three months or more), please be sure
theseals are OK. Normally the quality guarantee period of the seal is 1
year when the seal are stored indoor and the temperature is 20. Please
be sure the condition of the storage and compare it with the recommend
storage condition about the quality guarantee period. If necessary, the
seals should be replaced before working.
Pumps that have sat idle for any appreciable period of time (two weeks or
(more) must have the plungers and valves removed, coated with a light
lubricant and reinstalled prior to operating. The plunger packing and valve
inserts will stick to the matching metal parts and become damaged upon
start-up if not disassembled and lubricated first.
10
Section 2
General Maintenance
11
Safety
Read all of the warings and safety guidelines in this manual before you put a
TPH400 pump in service. Failure to read and follow all of the safety warings in
this manual can result in serious injury, death, and equipment damage.
Warning
Follow all precautions below in consideration of safety in maintenance and
require.
Safety Precautions
Before you work on a TPH400 pump, check the following items:
1. Wear personal protective equipment (PPE). Review the PPE manual for
specifications on hard hat, goggles, gloves, steel-toed shoes, etc.
2. Flush the pump to remove any acids or other harmful chemicals that could
cause bodily harm if contacted.
3. Carefully bleed pressure from the fluid end. Isolate the pump from pressure
and vent the pump to atmosphere before beginning work.
Warning: Never place your hand into the fluid end or spacer area of a
pump when the prime mover is on. Serious or fatal injury could result.
5. Disengage the prime mover from the pump (transmission in neutral) or lock
the electric motor to prevent accidental startup.
8. Use care when lifting or moving pump parts. Many of these parts are heavy
enough to cause injury if improperly handled. Lift parts with other personnel or
use a hoist or other lifting device.
12
9. If the pump input shaft is turned by a tool (such as a pry bar or pipe wrench),
remove the tool immediately after use.
Caution: Do not start the pump when the tool is still attached to the
driveshaft, serious damage or injury could occur.
10. Before starting the pump, make sure all discharge valves are open and all
protective guards are installed.
Warning: Do not operate a TPH400 pump if the pump has fatigue cracks.
Operating an pump with fatigue cracks can result in severe injury, death,
and equipment damage.
The fluid end is working at a cyclic load with each plunger stroke. Therefore,
many of the fluid-end components are susceptible to fatigue cracking,
especially the high-pressure cementing services.
The following parts should be checked:
Cylinder
Cylinder-head covers
Cylinder-head retainers
Discharge covers
Discharge-cover retainers
Top tie bolts
Packing nuts
Discharge flanges
13
General Maintenance
Introduction
Prejob Maintenance
1. Check the oil quantity and quality in the power end. Add oil if the dipstick
shows that the level is low. Do not mix different types of oil.
Check the oil type. Making sure that the pour point is at least -12.2 below
working environment to guarantee fluidity. And consider characters of different
oil types. See more details in the Power-End Lubricants table additional.
2. You could check the jam situation of oil filter in its pointer field. Yellow means
cleaning will be needed. Take apart oil filter from lubricate pipe, then loosen
spring in the pointer and discharge pointer box lightly when you are cleaning.
Attention: do not damage O ring seal and pointer! Loosen top four bolts; take
down the body of oil filter straightly (oil usually reserves in it)Take out filter
gauze; clean with detergent and blow-dry. Invert this process could assemble
oil filter.
3. Check pump packing lubricant system, oilcan level, loosen pump packing
linker, check if whether oil spout and adjust air pressure in order to obtain
proper pump packing lubricant flow rate.
4. Check oil temperature in major pump power end and fluid end. Turn on heat
exchanger, making sure oil temperature > 6.Overcooling temperature will
make oil difficult to fluid and hard to form oil slick could damage equipment.
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3. Every 10 minutes check the packing to see if it is leaking, moment check the
packing to see if it is smoking. If it is leaking, tighten the pressure packing by
wrench (P40-09-009). If it continues to leak, change it (see repair guide). If it is
smoking, the plunger lubricator maybe malfunctioning or the packing is
pressure-locked and a spray bar is needed.
Power-End Lubricants
Lube Selector by outside
Temp.()
Lubricant Pour point >10 -6.7~10 <-6.7
Mobilube HD 85W-140 -17.8 x x -
Mobil Extra Hecla Super Cylinder Oil 4.4 x - -
Mobilgear 636 -6.7 x - -
Mobil gear 634 -6.7 x - -
Mobil gear 632 -17.8 - x -
Philube SMP Gear Oil SAE85W/140 Stock No.90941 -17.8 x x -
Philube SMP Gear Oil SAE85W/140 Stock No.90931 -26.1 x x -
Philube SMP Gear Oil SAE80W/90 -28.9 - - x
Hector 3000 S-Stock No.80740 -12.2 x - -
Hector 3000 S-Stock No.80710 -9.4 x x -
Shell Spirax HD 85w/140 -20.6 x x -
Shell Spirax HD 80w-90 -26.1 - - x
Union Worm Gear Lube SAE 140 -12.2 x - -
Union MP Gear Lube SAE 85w/140 -12.2 x x -
Union MP Gear Lube SAE 80w/90 -28.9 - - x
Overload worm oil L-CKE/P Primes Viscosity 198 -12 x - -
242
Overload worm oil L-CKE/P Quality products -6 - x x
Viscosity 198242
Domestic high load vehicle gear pound 80w/90 Select oil prudently according to pour point
15
Notes
2. Make most of oil list above. Please contact with engineer division of SJS
when using non-listed oil.
Packing lubricants
Packing lubricants had better adopt rock drill engine oil that adds in two
kinds of additives: thickening agent could make oil adhere to plunger and
packing better; ultimate additive could reduce wear under conditions where
rubbing or sliding accompanies high contact pressures. Actually power end
lubricant also could up to packing lubricant, but higher cost.
Caution: Do not use engine oil smooth packing. Although it is expensive, it
would reduce packings useful time.
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GULF Rock Drill 32 -45.6 - - x
GULF Rock Drill 100 -31.7 x x -
GULF Rock Drill 320 -15 x - -
MOBIL Alamo Oil 525 -23.3 - - x
MOBIL Alamo Oil 527 -28.9 x x -
MOBIL Alamo Oil 529 -23.3 x - -
Notes:
1. If packing has premature damage, check if scratch exists in appearance
and packing hole exists in pump head scar. If these problems are not existed,
please consider whether crosshead sliding bush wear result in crosshead
clearance exceed and make plunger jump up.
2. In order to make packing operate normally, compress packing (2000PSL
first level) to reach max pressure (usually 2/3 max pressure) by pressurizing
progressively. Then tighten packing and maintain 20-30 min.
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Section 3
Structure and Repair
18
Maintenance and repair guide
Maintenance:
1. Check fluid-end valve component tools every 10 accumulative working
hours or 5 times.
2. Check worm tooth situation by tearing down worm box sideboard every
100 accumulative working hours or 3 months. If worm tooth appear
obvious chasm, major pump need to take apart and replace new worm. If
worm tooth become black, it indicates worm tooth appear centralized
pressure area which would aggravate worm wear. SJS strongly
recommend changing worm for its low safety may cause equipment
damage and serious injury.
3. Chang power-end lubricant and open power-endheat exchanger which
should clean by diesel oil every 200 accumulative working hours or 6
months.
Attention: If use artificial lubricant, such as Mobil SHC-634, the cleaning
time of the power-end could prolong until 1000 accumulative working
hours or 2 years.
4. Clean Purolator every 6 months or after changing power-end lubricant
even if Purolator do not indicate yellow.
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Power-End Repair
Minor repairs to the 400 power end can be made in most field camps and
on location, such as change packing, oil seal, valve etc. However, if the
pump requires an overhaul, send it to SJS.
Introduction
The power-end assembly reduces speed, multiplies torque, and changes
rotary action into reciprocating action. The assembly takes energy
delivered by the energy and transmission and changes it into energy that
can be used by the fluid end.
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P40-09-000 TOOL ASSEMBLY
P40-09-001 0001 WRENCH,SOCKET,PLUNGER TIE BOLT NUT
P40-09-002 0002 TOOL,PLUNGER REMOVING 4-6 IN
P40-09-003 0003 TOOL,PACKING INSERTING
P40-09-007 0004 INSERT INSTALLING TOOL
P40-09-009 0005 WRENCH,PACKING NUT ADJUSTING
P40-09-030 0006 PULLER ASSY.,VALVE SEAT NO. 4 FRAC
P40-09-040 0007 TOOL, STOP AND SPRING INSTALLATION
P40-09-043 0008 SUPPORT, WRENCH 4 ADN 4 1/2"
P40-09-044 0009 PUNCH , GUIDE BUSHING REMOVING , NO.3 AND NO.4 VALVE
22
Pump preparation
1. Drain the oil from the power end.
2. Disconnected the plunger lubricant hose, the drive shaft, and the
coolant hoses. Remove the pump from the unit.
3. Move the plungers into the fluid end by turning the power-end input
shaft with a pipe wrench. Put the power end up on blocks and unfasten
the fluid-end mounts. Open suction board and unload plunger lug with
tool (P40-09-001), after that take down plungerplunger short pill-rod
plunger linking nuthandspikehandspike linking boltcrosshead linking
bolt.
4. Attach a chain and hoist to the fluid end. Take down 12 bolts in set with
wrench, and then take down fluid-end.
5. Remove the packing component if required.
23
24
Part # Item Description
25
7. Remove the first thrust bearing and the race of the gear support bearing.
Inspect the thrust-bearing cage for evidence of rollers wearing through the
cage. Replace the bearing if wear is evident.
8. Check wear of the radial bearing and races of the gear-support bearing.
Measure the clearance between the bearing and the inner race with a 6-in long
feeler gauge. Acceptable clearance is no more than 0.020 in.
9. Remove the ring gear by using lifting eyes, a chain, and a hoist.
10. Remove the second thrust bearing of the gear-support bearing. Inspect the
thrust-bearing cage for evidence of rollers wearing through the cage. Replace
the bearing if wear is evident.
11. Remove the inside race and the second thrust race of the gear-support
bearing by using lifting eyes, a chain, and a hoist. Put tension on the chain and
heat the race. Be careful not to overheat any area of the race.
12. Remove the bearing support by using lifting eyes, a chain, and a hoist.
26
Part # Item Description
27
Attentionright drive pump has one more parts check ringP40-14-201.List
picture below:
28
Removing the Crankshaft
1. This procedure must operate after taking down worm component.
2. Check the four main bearings. The outer mains are accessible from
the ends. The inboard mains, as well as the outboard mains, are
accessible through the access holes in the back of the case. If the
entire length of a 6"0.012"[150 X 0.3mm] feeler gauge fits between
the roller and the outer race of any of the main bearings, replace all the
main bearings. (Make a reference to crankshaft repair later).
3. Remove the injector, follow the guidelines below. Lifting pump and
turnover, make a upturned worm case
4. Remove flange bolt (23), inner spline platen.
5. Lift slightly crankshaft. Attention: Do not damage bearing.
29
Part # Item Description
30
LUBRICATING OIL INJECTION COMPONENT OF CRANKSHAFT
31
Removing the Slides
1. Remove the long crosshead cover.
2. Remove the short crosshead cover.
3. Adopt number methods used in ram and number the nearest worm NO.1.
4. Remove the baffle.
5. Making sure again that three crosshead oil nozzles and assorted tube,
linkers have been taken down.
6. Take down fixed bolt in the outside bracing of No.1, No.2 slides.
7. Remove bracings on the left and right of No.2 slide.
8. Remove slides and washer that behind it, and put them match along with
ram crosshead and its slides.
32
33
Part # Item Description
34
SPACER ASSEMBLY,WITH STEEL PLATES AND TUBES
35
Part # Item Qty Description
P40-15-120(*)
P40-15-101(***)
P40-15-143*
P40-15-144 (***)
36
Maintenance and Inspection
Clean all parts of the power end before assembly. Clean the case with a
pressure hose by using a grease-cutting additive. Clean the heat exchanger
core in a solvent such as naphtha. Remove material lodged in the fins with
blasts of compressed air. Clean the bearings in new solvent and dry them with
clean compressed air. Clean all other parts in solvent and allow them to dry.
Discard the gaskets and replace O-rings and seals that are in poor condition.
Oil-Pump Maintenance
Inspect the oil-pump drive shaft. If it is rounded, replace the oil pump. If the
shaft is in good condition, check the pump action. Submerge the pump in
solvent and turn the shaft by hand. If the shaft does not turn freely or if the
pump does not circulate the solvent, check for internal damage. Save the
gaskets; they serve as shims to adjust clearance in the pump.
37
matched import seal. Follow the guidelines below to know how to replace
shaft seal:
1. Loosen hexagon bolt 3/8"-16NCx1 1/4" in the flange, and take down link
flange.
2. Loosen inner hexagon bolt 3/8"-16NCx1 1/4", and take down oil seal block,
gasket. Do not take down rolling bearing block.
3. Crack old oil seal. Attention: Do not break oil seal block. Use 5.4 section
plastic block install oil seal. Caution: oil seals openings toward fluid-end.
4. Daub a round lubricant in the new installed oil seal openings, and install
new oil seal gasket, oil seal block.
5. Install linked flange. Fix it by lock gasket and nut. Bend horn that used for
loosening steel in order to fasten nut.
COMPANIONFLANGESUBASSEBLY
38
Bypass maintenance
Recommend bypass overflow pressure is 100PSI. Adjusting compression of
spring in order to keep pressure.
400 operate slowly, so worm turn slowly. Pump operates by worm, so output
reduces. All lubricant flow into major vitta, crankshaft, crosshead etc when
bypass valve turn off.
400 operate fast, so worm turn fast and pump give rise to overpressure. Low
temperature or high density lubricant also could lead to overpressure. At this
time, open bypass and overflow right amount of oil could recover pressure.
Overflow oil by bypass could help cooling and smoothing worm.
Bypass links with two upright filters. One is rough filtration, the other is
precision filtration. If indicator dial in the filtration indicate yellow, please clean
filtration.
P40-05-214 4 GASKET,CAP,SCREW,BYPASS,SCHROEDER
P40-05-420 8 FILTER,OIL,ELEMENT,25M
P40-05-410 9 FILTER,OIL,ELEMENT,25M
39
FLUID-END, TPH400,ASSY.
FLUID-END,3 3/8",TPH400,ASSY.
Part # Item Qty Description
P40-33-410 0004 3.0000 WIPER GLAND SUBASSEMBLY,3 3/8-IN FLUID END ASSEMBLY
P40-08-010(*)
0006 1.0000 SUCTION PIPE SUBASSEMBLY
P40-08-011(**)
P40-33-620(*)
0009 1.0000 FLANGE ASSEMBLY,LIFT-HAND, 3 3/8"
P40-33-610(**)
NOTICE: THE PART MARKED (*) BELONGS TO LEFT HAND DRIVE PUMP, THE PART
MARKED (**) BELONGS TO RIGHT HAND DRIVE PUMP
40
FLUID-END, 4,TPH400,ASSY.
Part # Item Qty Description
P40-40-000(*)
P40-40-001(**) FLUID-END,4",TPH400,ASSY.
P40-08-010(*)
0006 1.0000 SUCTION PIPE SUBASSEMBLY
P40-08-011(**)
P40-40-620(*)
0009 1.0000 FLANGE ASSEMBLY ,W/TWO-PIECE PACKING NUT
P40-40-610(**)
NOTICE: THE PART MARKED (*) BELONGS TO LEFT HAND DRIVE PUMP, THE PART
MARKED (**) BELONGS TO RIGHT HAND DRIVE PUMP
FLUID-END, 4 1/2,TPH400,ASSY.
Part # Item Qty Description
P40-44-000(*)
FLUID-END,4 1/2",TPH400,ASSY.,
P40-44-001(**)
P40-44-100 0001 3.0000 DISCHARGE VALVE SUBASSEMBLY,4 1/2" FLUID END ASSEMBLY
P40-08-010(*)
0006 1.0000 SUCTION PIPE SUBASSEMBLY,LEFT-HAND
P40-08-011(**)
P40-44-700 0007 1.0000 FLUID END SECTION SUBASSEMBLY,4 1/2" FLUID END ASSEMBLY
P40-40-620(*)
0009 1.0000 FLANGE ASSEMBLY,LEFT-HAND,W/TWO-PIECE PACKING NUT
P40-40-610(**)
NOTICE: THE PART MARKED (*) BELONGS TO LEFT HAND DRIVE PUMP, THE PART
MARKED (**) BELONGS TO RIGHT HAND DRIVE PUMP
41
DISCHARGE VALVE SUBASSEMBLY, FLUID END ASSEMBLY
P40-40-706
0001 1.0000 RETAINER,COVER,MACH,4" FLUID-END ASSY
P40-40-101
P40-40-103 0003 1.0000 GASKET,NO.4 DISCHARGE VALVE AND CYLINDER HEAD COVER,4 1/2"
P40-40-104(*)
0004 1.0000 RING,SPACER,NO.4 DISCHARGE VALVE AND CYLINDER HEAD COVER,
P40-44-709(**)
NOTICE: THE PART MARKED (*) BELONGS TO 3 3/8 PUMP, THE PART MARKED (**)
42
BELONGS TO 4 PUMP
P40-40-103 0003 1.0000 GASKET,NO.4 DISCHARGE VALVE AND CYLINDER HEAD COVER,4 1/2"
43
SUCTION VALVE SUBASSEMBLY W/ TWO-PIECE PACKING NUT, 3 3/8" AND 4
FLUID-END ASSY(NOT COMPLETED)
Part # Item Qty Description
44
SUCTION VALVE SUBASSEMBLY,4 1/2" FLUID-END ASSEMBLY
Part # Item Qty Description
45
PACKING,SPS,ASSY, TPH400
PACKING,SPS,ASSY,3 3/8,TPH400
Part # Item Qty Description
P8T0009337 PACKING,SPS,ASSY,3.375,TPH400
PACKING,SPS,LANTERN
P833371980 0005 1.0000 RING,3.375x4.375x1.981
PACKING,SPS,ASSY,4,TPH400
Part # Item Qty Description
P8T0009400 PACKING,SPS,ASSY,4.000,TPH400
PACKING,SPS,LANTERN
P834002360 0005 1.0000 RING,4.000x5.000x2.361
46
PACKING,SPS,ASSY,4 1/2,TPH400
Part # Item Qty Description
P8T0009450 PACKING,SPS,ASSY,4.500,TPH400
PACKING,SPS,LANTERN
P834502360 0005 1.0000 RING,4.500x5.500x2.361
47
WIPER GLAND SUBASSEMBLY,3 3/8-IN FLUID END ASSEMBLY
Part # Item Qty Description
P40-40-410(*)
WIPER GLAND SUBASSEMBLY,4 1/2" FLUID ENDASSEMBLY
P40-44-410(**)
P40-40-413(*)
0003 0.0000 DIAPHRAGM OIL SEAL
P60-44-801(**)
NOTICE: THE PART MARKED (*) BELONGS TO 4 PUMP, THE PART MARKED (**)
BELONGS TO 4 1/2 PUMP
48
TIE-BOLT AND PLUNGER SUBASSEMBLY
49
PLUNGER SUBASSEMBLY, 4 1/2" FLUID END ASSEMBLY
Part # Item Qty Description
50
FLANGE ASSEMBLY W/TWO-PIECE PACKING NUT
51
FLANGE ASSEMBLY,LEFT-HAND,W/TWO-PIECE PACKING NUT
52
FLANGE ASSEMBLY, LEFT -HAND, 3 3/8"
Part # Item Qty Description
53
FLUID END SECTION SUBASSEMBLY
54
FLUID-END SECTION,SUBASSEMBLY W/TWO-PIECE PACKING NUT AND THREE TOP
TIE-BOLT,3 3/8"
Part # Item Qty Description
P40-40-708 0008 3.0000 GASKET,NO.3 DISCHARGE VALVE AND CYLINDER HEAD COVER,3 3/8"
P40-40-709 0009 3.0000 RING,SPACER,NO.3 DISCHARGE VALVE AND CYLINDER HEAD COVER, 3 3/8"
55
FLUID END SECTION SUBASSEMBLY,4 1/2" FLUID END ASSEMBLY
Part # Item Qty Description
P40-40-103 0008 3.0000 GASKET,NO.4 DISCHARGE VALVE AND CYLINDER HEAD COVER,4 1/2"
P40-44-709 0009 3.0000 RING,SPACER,NO.4 DISCHARGE VALVE AND CYLINDER HEAD COVER, 4 1/2"
56
Part # Item Qty Description
P40-40-708 0008 3.0000 GASKET,NO.3 DISCHARGE VALVE AND CYLINDER HEAD COVER,3 3/8"
P40-40-709 0009 3.0000 RING,SPACER,NO.3 DISCHARGE VALVE AND CYLINDER HEAD COVER, 3 3/8"
57
P40-40-714 0014 2.0000 BOLT,TIE,HT-400,1" DIA.,FOR THREE TOP-TIE-BOLT
58
59
Attention:
Parts should purchase only from SJS. Similar purchased parts are out of use.
Important: Do not switch the sumps or the oil will not be filtered properlyThe
elements are not interchangeable.
60
9Install three new filter elements in the long sumpMake sure the spring and
spring plate and the two element connectors are in placeLight pressure is
required on the sump bottom as flange bolts are inserted
Note: Some Schroeder filters are equipped with reusable filter elements made
of steel wire meshUse reusable filters only when disposable elements are not
availableUltrasonic equipment is required for cleaning these elements
Race Replacement
1If the main bearings are faulty, remove the 12 race washers
2Drive the four races out either end of the case
3Measure the main bearing bores with a micrometerA bore is oversized if it
measures more than 17004 in(4319 cm)If a bore is oversizedthe race
has been turning in the case and not creeping(Races that creep prevent wear
from being concentrated in one area.) Make note of oversized boresSpecial
treatment is required
61
4Install two race washers on the inside of each of the bores for the inboard
main bearingsTurn the unworn side of the washers toward the bore
5Drive in the wide races for the inboard main bearingsone from either end
Seat them against the washersIf the main bearings are in good condition, use
the old racesIf main bearings are in poor condition, use new racesIf a bore
is oversized, secure the race with Loctite or an equivalent
3Install the three cups with the new Orings and plugThe plug goes into the
splined crankshaft endUse seal washers in addition to flat washers on both
ends of the screws
4Turn the crankshaft so the splined end is downHeat one of the outboard
(narrow)bearings to 200F(933)Install it on the bottom flangeworking it
down from the topSecure it with retainer washers
5Install the remaining three bearingsusing retainer washers as temporary
supportsInstall three washers on the underside of the bottom-most flange that
still does not have a bearingOn the flange, install an inboard (wide) bearing
that has been heated to 200F(933)Install more washers and another
62
inboard bearingInstall more washers and the remaining outboard bearingIf
replacing oldstyle(pre~1973)main bearings with new heavy-duty bearings
use undercut retainer washers and long screws on the inside of the outboard
bearings as described in Step 4
6After the bearings have cooled and contractedsecure them by installing the
remaining retainer washers.
63
Pins and Bushings
1Measure the crosshead pinspositioning the micrometer to measure
maximum wear
2Measure the crossheadpin bushingIf the clearance between the pin and
bushing is more than 0012 in(003 cm)replace the defective part.
3Remove faulty bushings and install new ones by using the hydraulic press.
2Check the seals between the ends of the oil tubes in old connecting rodsIf
the seal is faultyremove and discard the connecting rod and replace itFor
connecting rods with drilled oil holes, blow air through to be sure the drilled
passages are clear
Important: Do not oil the backs of the bearings before installationOiling the
backs of the bearings cuts down clearance between the bearings and the
crank journals
4If the bearings are not obviously wornreinstall the caps on the connecting
rods and measure the bearings with a micrometerBe sure each cap is a mate
for the connecting rodOrient each cap SO that the cap code (a number and
letter)is On the same side as the code stamped in the connecting rodReplace
bearings that measure more than 5015 in(1274 cm)If the bearings are
for a reground crankshaft, subtract theoversizedimension [0040 or 0080
64
in(010 or 020 cm)] from 5015 in(1274 cm)
5Oil the pins and install them, aligning the notchesBe sure each crosshead
is a mate for the connecting rodBe sure the top (small) shoe and the code
stamped into the connecting rod are on the same side
7Secure the pins and keys with the dished washers, screws, and nuts
Important: Do not cut the heavy wire that ties the lugs together
4. Support the ring gear with the splined side up for right-hand pumps or with
the splined side down for left-hand pumpsHeat the gear until the radial
bearing fails outRotate the gear to aid in even heating
5Assemble the ring gear and the radial bearing of the gearsupport
bearingBoth parts must be dean and burr-free
Turn the ring gear so that the splined side is down on a right-hand pumpOn a
left-hand pumpturn the ring gear so that the splined side is up
Heat the gear in an oven to 200F(93.7) to expand itDrop the bearing into
the gearTurn the bearing 90m both directions to seat itAllow it to cool
before proceeding
6. Secure the bearing with the lugs(right-hand pumps only)Be sure the
screws and lugs are wired
65
Worm Gear and Assembly Maintenance
Worm Gear
Inspect the worm gearIf possibleuse magnetic particle inspection to check
for invisible cracksCheck for wear and corrosionReplace crackedworn
or corroded worm gearsIf the ring gear is being replaced, replace the worm
gear
Drive-End Bearing
1Check the clearance of the driveend bearingFit the bearing on the race
which is still on the worm gear
If a 0.010-in(0.03-cm) feeler gauge fits under at least three of the
rollersreplace the bearing
If the driveend bearing passed the clearance test, inspect it. If the
rollers or races are badly spalledreplace the bearing
2Inspect the drive-end bearing race(old worm gears)If the bearing or the oil
seal has damaged it, remove the raceHeat the race to expand it
If the worm gear is without a new race at this pointinstall a new raceHeat it
to 200F(933 )before installation
Thrust-End Bearing
1Check the clearance of the thrust-end bearingFit the bearing OD the race
which is still on the worm gear
If a 0010 m(003 cm) feeler gauge Can be positioned under
at least three rollers, replace the bearing
If the thrustend bearing passed the clearance testinspect itIf the
rollers or races are badly spalledreplace the bearing
2Inspect the thrust-end bearing raceIf it is pittedremove it by expanding it
with heat
3If the worm gear does not yet have a new raceinstall a new raceHeat it
to 200F(933)before installation
Thrust Bearing
Inspect the thrust bearingIf the rollers or races are badly spalledreplace the
entire thrust bearing
If the bushing is damagedreplace itAlways replace the key
66
Assembly
Slide Assembly
1Install the slidesUse 516-in(079- cm) screws and nuts to temporarily
secure the top slides that have oil holesInstall slides the same way they came
outThe No1 slide is installed next to the ring gear
2Measure the standoff with a micrometer between the end of each slide and
the case
3Install enough shims to make each slide stick out 0004 to 0006 in(0010
to 0015 cm) beyond the caseIf using a spacer assembly between the power
end and the fluid endmake the slides stand out 0001 to 0003 in(00025
to 00076 cm)
4Install the crosshead aligning jack
5Install the four inboard slide-clampsbut do not tighten them completelyBe
sure the protrusions of the feet are pointing out and touching the braces
6Install the four outboard slide-dampsRun the long set-screws out equally so
that the clamps are centeredDo not tighten them completely
7Tighten the inboard slide-clamps
8Make sure the long set-screws of the outboard slide clamps are tight and
lock them with the short set-screws
9Remove the jack
10. Remove the screws and nuts that are supporting the top slides
11Wire the screws of the inboard slide clamps to the braces
12Install the baffle
13. Install the short crosshead cover and a new gasketUse a pipe sealant on
the screwsUse seal washers and flat washers
14. Install the long crosshead cover and a new gasketUse a pipe sealant on
the screws. Use seal washers and flat washers.
Crankshaft Assembly
1. Install the retainer ring in the caseThe ring break is positioned at the top
2Temporarily install the injector coverDo not use all the screws or the
gasketThe cover is temporarily installed to support the crankshaft during
installation
3. Install the weldingrod ring if requiredAll right-hand pumps and a few
left-hand pumps require a weldingrod ring
4Position the Crankshaft so that the splined end is up and install the flanged
Stud. Be sure to wire the screws
5Oil the main bearings and racesInstall the Crankshaft in the caseusing a
lifting eye and hoistSpinning the crankshaft during installation helps ease
67
RingGear Assembly
1 If the bearing support is newcalculate the number of shims to use under
the bearing support by using the ring-gear shimming calculation procedure and
steps a through h.
a. Measure the flange of the bearing support (Dimension A)
b. Measure the thickness of the gear (Dimension B) and divide by 2
c. Measure the lip of the of the radialgear bearing (Dimension C)
dMeasure the thrust-bearing race(Dimension D)
eMeasure the roller (Dimension E)
fAdd Dimensions A through E
gSubtract the total in Step ffrom the dimension stamped on the
case (Figure 46Page 4-20)
hDetermine the gear offset and add or subtract from the total in Step
gThe answer will indicate the number of shims to place under the
support
68
2Install the bearingsupport shimsIf the same bearing is reusedreuse the
same shims that were removed during disassemblyIf using a new bearing
support, install the number of shims you determined in Step 1
3Install the bearing support by using the lifting eyes and a hoistSecure the
support with the 16 short screws and washersTorque to the value in Table
4With the bevel downinstall the first thrust race of the gearsupport
bearing
5Oil the ID of the inner raceInstall the inner race of the gearsupport
bearingThe small hole in the race goes toward the fluid-end opening in the
caseThe race can be heated to 200.F (93.3C) to make installation easier
6Liberally oil the first bearing of the gearsupport bearingand install it
7Liberally oil the ringgear teeth and the bearing rollers in the gear and
install itSpinning the gear aids in installation
8Lubricate the second thrust bearing of the gear-support bearingand install
it
9With the bevel upinstall the second thrust race of the gearsupport
bearing
10Determine if the ring gear is running trueRotate the gear with a dial
indicator against itIf the indicator registers more than O003 int00076 cm)
remove the gear from the pump and the radial bearing of the gear-support
bearing from the gearDeburr the gear surface that contacts the side of the
bearing
11 Determine the number of shims required under the thrust ring by
measuring the standoff between the thrust race and the bearing supportThe
number of shims equals the standoff plus 0001 to 0004 inf00025 to
00101 cm)
12Install the correct number of shims
13Install the thrust ring, securing it with the 16 long screwsThe thrust ring
has two blank holesThis condition is normalTorque to the value in Table
14 Check the clearance in the thrust bearings of the gear support
bearingPut a dial indicator against the ring gearPry up on the gear while
watching the indicatorIf clearance is not 0001 to 0004 inthe thrust ring
might be overshimmedRepeat Steps 11 through 14 until the clearance is
correct
15Wire the heads of the thrust-ring screws
16Install the clampring adapter(right-hand pumps only)
17Install the spline-drive flangeSecure it with the 24 clamp washers and
screwsApply thread lubricant to the screw threads to make them easier to
installBe sure to get the welding rod through the washers and wire the screw
heads
69
TABLE 2.1-TPH400 FASTENER TORQUE VALUES
TOQUE ft/lb (N-M)
Fastener Type Thread Size Molybdenum-based Oil
Thread Lubricant
Fluid-End Attaching Stud 1-14NS 200(271) 400(542)
Fluid-End Attaching Nut 1-14NS 640(868) 1280(1735)
3
Fluid-End/Top-Tie Bolt 1 /8-12NF 1500(2034) -
3
Fluid-End/Bottom-Tie Bolt /4-16NF 200(271) 340(461)
Discharge-Flange Stud 1-14NS 200(271)
Discharge-Flange Nut 1-14NS 580(786)
Plunger Nose-Plug 1-14NS 200-300(271-407)
Plunger tie-bolt 1-14NS 300-400(407-542)
Pushrod retainer 1-14NS 400-500(542-678)
Pushrod Tie-Bolt 1-14NS 500-600(678-813)
3
Connecting-Rod cap Bolt /4-10NC 110(149)
1
Gear-Support Flange /2-13NC 50(68) 100(136)
1
Gear-Support Thrust Plate /2-13NC 60(81) 120(163)
70
Worm-Gear Assembly Maintenance
Holroyd-Drive Pump
1Oil the bearingInstall the drive-end retainer and bearing (without the inside
race)and a new gasket
2Install the retainer cover and a new gasketInstall a new seal in the cover
3Install the worm gearBe sure the locknut in place to protect the threads
Completing Installation
Installation of the thrust-end retainer, bearings, shimsand oil pump are
identical on Holroyd-and cone-drive systemsInstall the thrust-end retainer and
bearing as well as a new O-ringTap the retainer into position with an
aluminum, brassor nylon hammerBe careful not to mar the surface of the
retainer that contacts the oil pump
1Install the thrust-end bearing thrust race
2Install the bushing key in the worm gear
3Install the bearing bushing
4Install the locknut
5Install the screw in the locknut
6Install the bearing key in the bearing bushing
7With the bevel in first, install one of the thrust races for the thrust
bearing
8Install the inner spacer for the thrust bearing
9Oil one of the bearings of the thrust-bearing setInstall the bearing
10Install another thrust racewith the bevel in last
11Install a third thrust racewith the bevel in first
12Lubricate another bearing of the thrust bearing and install it
13Install the outer spacer of the thrust bearing
14With the bevel in last, install the last thrust race
15. Determine the number of shims under the oil pump
aUse a micrometer to measure the standoff between the last thrust
race of the thrust bearing and the surface of the thrust-end retainer that
contacts the oil pump
bUse a micrometer to measure the oil pump to determine the distance
between the surface that contacts the thrust-end retainer and the surface that
contacts the thrust bearing
CSubtract the measurement in Step 15b from the measurement in
Step 15aAdd 0009 in(0023 cm)
16 Install the correct number of shims to equal the final number
71
calculated in Step 15c
17Install the pump drive adapter
18Equip the 0n pump with a new O-ring and install the pumpSecure the
pump with nuts and screwsUse thread lubricant on the threads
19On a conedrive gear set, check the contact pattern of the ring and
worm gearsPaint the worm gear with Red Lead or a substituteoverlapping
slightly on the blue dye applied earlier
20Put a drag on the power end (the weight of a fluid end is sufficient) and
turn the worm gear untilthe ring gear has made at least four full turnsCheck
the contact patternIt begins within 3 inof the entering end of the worm-gear
thread and extends to within 8 inof the major relief on the trailing end
21Check the pattern on the conedrive ring gear to see if it resembles
the pattern in Figure48
22Check clearance in the thrust bearingPut a dial indicator on the end
of the worm gearMove the gear in and out with a pry bar to a clearance of
O008 to 0010 in(00203 to 00254 cm)If it does not meet this clearance
remove the oil pump and add or remove shims to correct the clearance
23Install the oil pump
24Install the suction hose On the oil pump and tighten the clamp
25Install the discharge hoseUse pipe sealant on the threads
26Install the two hoses on the bypassUse pipe sealant on the threads
27Install the spline-drive coupling
28Install O120 in(00305 cm)(right-hand pumps)or 0060 in(O1524
cm)(left-hand pumps)of crankshaft shims and the spider bushing This
measurement is temporaryYou may need to add or remove shims later to
position connecting rods in the Crossheads
29Install the spiderSecure it with the four screws and the nutInstall the
cotter key through the nut, and wire the heads of the screws
30Remove the injector cover
31Install the injector and a new gasketOrient the injector so that the port
aligns with the lube-line bracket
If using a pump manufactured before 1973secure the lock washer and
nut
If using a pump manufactured after 1973bolt the injector from the
outside
31Equip the injector driveshaft with a new O-ringInstall the injector
driveshaft into the crankshaft
32Install the injector Cover and a new gasketGuide the drive shaft into
the injectorPoint the port of the injector toward the lube-line bracketSecure
the cover with me 16 screws and lock washers
33Install the injector nippleUse pipe sealant on the threads
34Install the hose on the nippleUse pipe sealant on the threads
Pump Preparation
1Install the seal plate or platesReplace corroded platesespecially if the
wipergland seals have nothing to seat against
2Using a chain and hoist, install the fluid endTorque the 12 nuts(Table
Page 4211 by using the locknut wrench and the extensionPut thread
lubricant on the stud threads
3Install the tie bolts with the socket wrench and apply torque
4Position the plungers against the Crossheads by using the two inserting
tools.
5Use a nose wrench and one of the supports to install the plunger noses and
sealsMake sure the rubber parts of the seals have not been damagedLightly
oil the plunger faceseal, and noseand tighten the nose.
6Install the cylinder-head coversProperly position the spacer rings in the
boresBe sure the gaskets are in good condition and lubricatedLubricate
retainer threadsTighten the retainers by alternately striking all three lugs until
73
a solid ringing sound occursTightening the retainers usually requires10 to 15
strikes with an 8to 12-1b(363 to 544-kg)sledgehammer
Caution: Make sure the cylinder-head covers are tightA fatigue crack from
cyclic loading can occur if threads are not tightened enough
7Install the pump by securing the mounts and connecting the plunger
lubricator hosethe coolant hoses, and the driveshaft
8Fill the power end with oilUse the heaviest grade oil possibleMake sure
that the pour point of the oil is at least 10F( 122C) below the overnight
low temperature expected at the locationCheck the lubrication charts in
Section 2
9Check the setting of the bypass valve by running the pump and watching the
oil-pressure gaugeThrottle the engine to 1,500 revmin, put the transmission
in a midrange gear, and turn on the plunger lubricator
Caution: Do not run the pump more than 15 minutes unless fluids are being
circulated Lack of fluid lubrication may damage the pump valves and may
damage the bearing surfaceswhich will result in premature bearing failure
74
configurationsThe first configuration has a top and bottom fie-bolt(Figure 12
Locs40 and 41)The second configuration has three top tie-bolts(Figure
523)
1Remove the fluid end by following the disassembly steps under Changing
Fluid End with SpacerorChanging Fluid End without Spacer
2Position the fluid end on the foot end and remove the bottom tie-bolt
Note: Spacers and seals are compressed if the top fie-bolt is removed first
4. Remove the four nuts from the discharge flangesRemove the flanges and
flange seals
Assembly
1Clean the seal bores of the sections not discarded and check them for fluid
cuttingIf the shoulder that backs up the fluid seal is eroded, replace that
fluid-end section
2Plug unused stud holes with grease to prevent rust
3Assemble the fluid-end sections with the spacers and new seals
4Install the discharge flangesUse new seals(Plugged flanges have two
seals and a spacer)
5Coat the threads of the top tie-bolt with thread lubricant, install the tie bolt,
and torque it
6Coat the threads of the bottom tie-bolt with thread lubricant, install it, and
torque it
7Install the fluid end using the assembly steps in the following section
Changing Fluid End with Spacer, or use the assembly steps in Changing
Fluid End without Spacer
Disassembly
1Disconnect the plunger-lubricator hose
2Use a sledgehammer to remove the cylinder-head covers.
75
3Remove the plunger noses and sealsUse a support with either of the nose
wrenchesTo prevent the push rods from turning, use a suitable tool
4Move the plungers into the fluid end by turning the powerend input shaft
with a pipe wrenchAttach a chain and hoist to the fluid endremove the 12
nutsand remove the fluid end
Assembly
1If a stud has been galled, remove it with a pipe wrenchCheck the threads
in the spacerRetap or drill, tapand helicoil damaged threadsAfter
applying thread lubricant to the threadsinstall a new stud with a stud
driverReplace nuts that have damaged threads
2If an L-spacer is usedchange the push-rod noses when changing from one
diameter of plunger to another
3Install or remove the seal plate as necessary
4Using the chain and hoist, fit the new fluid end on the spacerApply lubricant
to the threads of the studsCheck the parts list to see if washers are used
under the nutsInstall the 12 nuts(and washers if required)Use the locknut
wrench and the extension to torque the nuts
5If fluidend sizes are switched, check the parts list to be sure the correct tie
bolts are availableChange the tie-bolts if necessaryKeep the push-rod noses
from turning with the L-Spacer bar during removalLightly lubricate threads
with oil
6To center the wipersloosen the screws securing the glandsPosition the
glands and retighten the screws
7Lubricate the plungers and position them against the push-rod noses by
using the two inserting tools
8Lightly on the plunger face, seal, and noseInstall the plunger noses and
seals by using a nose wrench and support that are the same diameter as the
plunger boresHandtighten the noses so that the plungers can be centered
9To secure the pressure packing, run the nuts out of the wiper glandsWith
the packing wrench, tighten the nuts as tightly as possible To prevent
overtightening, do not use an extension on the wrench
Caution: Run the pump for about 15 seconds to center the plungers in
the packing
10Torque the plunger nosesUse a nose wrench and a supportDo not over
tighten the noses
1 1Install the cylinder-head covers with a sledgehammerMake sure the steel
spacer rings are in place and that the rubber gaskets are in good
conditionLubricate gaskets and the threads on the retainerContinue to
hammer retainers by alternately striking all three lugs until a solid ringing
sound occurs Generally,10 to 15 strikes with an 8-to 12-1b(3 63-to
76
544-kg)sledgehammer are required
Caution: Make sure the cylinder-head covers are tightA fatigue crack from
cyclic loading can occur if threads are not tightened enough
Discharge Flanges
Procedures
1Remove the nut from the top tie-bolt
Note: If the fluid end does not have a bottom tie-bolt, it has been outfitted with
three top tie-bolts
2Remove the two nuts securing the bottom of the discharge flange
3Use the nut driver to remove the bottom internal wrenching nuts on straight
flanges that are inset
4Remove the flange and the seal in a straight flangeRemove two seals and
the spacer in a plugged flange
5Clean the seal boreCheck the bore for fluid cuttingIf the shoulder that
backs up the seal has been erodedreplace the fluidend section by using the
procedure in Changing FluidEnd Sections,.
6. Install a new seal(two seals and the spacer on plugged
flanges)Reassemble the flangethe fluid end has three top tie-bolts,
see Three Top TieBolts
7Coat the threads of the studs with thread lubricant and install the two nuts
on the studsTorque the nuts with a calibrated torque wrench
8Coat the thread of the top tie-bolt with thread lubricant, and install the nut
on the top tie-boltTorque the nut
ValvesSeatsand Retainers
Disassembly
77
Valve
1Remove the valve covers and the cylinderhead covers
2Remove the discharge valves and springs
3Remove the suction-valve stops by using the tee wrench and the
adapter(The adapter is not used on singleguided valves)Pry
up on the lock spring with a screw driverand turn the stop 90 in
either direction
4Remove the suction valves and springs
Assembly
Retainers and Seats
78
1Fit the bushing retainers into the three bores for the suctionvalve seats
Retainers are installed with the guide bushing facing towards the valve
Older retainers must be installed with the larger chamfer downOlder retainers
are marked THIS SIDE UP to make positioning easier
Newer retainers can be installed with either side up
2Use a seat installer to install adapters(frac valves)in the seat bores(In new,
tapered-bore fluid endsadapters are not used)Adapters and bores must be
clean and free of lubricant, and the O-ring must be placed correctly
3Using the seat inserter, drive the seats into the adapters or bores and
position the new O-rings
If the seat does not bottom out when driven into an adaptercheck to see if the
adapter is cocked and under the seatFluid-end seats with a tapered bore are
difficult to bottom outTo install the valve seats in a taper-borefluid end
pressurize the TPH400 pump to the appropriate pressures before going on
location
Note: Improper installation of valve seats can result in seats being pumped out
or result in the fluid-end bores being fluidcut
Valves
1Install the suction valvesspringsand stopsTurn the valve stops into the
bores by using the tee wrenchAn adapter is used on the end of the wrench
for all but single-guided valves
Be absolutely sure the lock springs of the valve stops are well seated in the
short, vertical grooves
Caution: The lock springs must be seated properly to keep the stops
from working out of the bores and into the path of the moving plungers
79
3Install the cylinder-head coversGaskets must be in good condition and
lubricatedSpacer rings must be installed in the bores of the fluidend
sectionsLubricate the threads on the retainerContinue to hammer the
retainers by alternately striking all three lugs until a sound OccursGenerally
10 to 15 strikes with an 8-to 12-Ib(363-to 544-kg)sledgehammer are
required
Caution: Make sure the cylinder-head covers are tightA fatigue crack
from cyclic loading can occur if threads are not tightened enough
4After installing the frac-valve seatspressurize the fluid end to onethird the
maximum working pressurePressurizing the fluid end
drives the seats into their adaptersminimizing chances of a seat being
pumped out during a jobHigher pressure may be required for seats installed
in fluid ends with a tapered bore
Caution: Do not exceed the maximum pressure limit of the fluid end
80
adaptersand the lantern ring from each packing bore
9Remove the check valves
Assembly
1. Clean the packing bores thoroughly Make sure no cement or other
material is stuck to the bores or the shoulders that the male adapters press
against
Check the packing bores for wearUsing a micrometer, measure each bore
at the point indicated by AGreatest wear Occurs at Point A where the
highly pressurized first and second packing rings rub
81
Packing Bore Dimentions
Rreplace fluid end sections with bores that are worn more than 0.01
in. oversized.
2. Check the threads of the fluid end sections for cracks. These are the
threads that the cylinders heads screw into.
3. Use the packing-inserting tool to install a male adapter,
4Install the wiper glandsDo not install packing in themExtend the nuts
of the glandsbut do not tighten them
5Check alignment of the lantern rings to enstlre adequate flow of
lubrication to the packingLook through the lubrication holes to be sure
undercuts of the lantern rings are visible
6Install the tie bolts by using the socket wrench and a suitable support
Lighlly oil the threads and tighten the tie bolts
7Check the plungers for scratchesCheck for wear by comparing the
minimum wear areaReplace scratched plungers and plungers with the OD
worn more than 0005 in(0013 cm)
8Position the plungers against the push-rod noses by using the two
inserting toolsLubricate the plungers before inserting them
9Lightly oil the plunger facesealand noseInstall the plunger noses
and seals by using a nose wrench and a support that is the same
82
diameter as the plunger boresHandtighten the noses so that the
plungers cart be centered
10.To tighten the pressure packingrun out the wipergland nutsWith the
packing wrenchtighten the nuts as tightly as possible without using an
extension on the wrench .
torque the plunger noses see the toque table ,do not over tighten it.
Important Run the pump for about 15 seconds t0 center the plungers in
the packingFailing to do SO may CtlUSe premature failure
ofthe pushrod wiper seals or the packing.
11. Loosen the screws securing the wiper glands of the spacer. Center the
glands and retighten the screws.
12. Clean the check valves. Take them apart if necessary. Make sure
there is a positive seal in the reverse direction. Replace valves that do
not seal. Clean oil lineswith compressed air and clean exposed
connections.
13. reinstall the check valves with the arrows pointing toward the
ground.Install the lubrication supply hose. Use a pipe sealant on the
threads.
14 Break in the packing by using clean water. In 2000 psi(13.790Mpa) in
crements, build to two-third the maximum operation pressure while
tightenting the packing nuts and maintain pressure for 20 to 30
minutes. Break-in pressure should not exceed the maximum
expected working pressure
Replacing Wiper Seals and Push Rods in L-2 and L-4 Spacers
1Remove the plungers and pressure packing.
2Remove the three adapters.
3Remove the three retainers and O-ringsUse the socket wrench and
support
83
4Screw the plunger remover into the push rodsshort end firstTurn the
power-end input shaft so that the push-rod tie-bolt pushes on the end of the
remover and extracts the push rod from the wiper packingRepeat this
operation for the two remaining push rods
5Remove the wiper glands from the spacer,turning the power-end input shaft
to get the tie-bolts out of the way
6If the seals in the wiper glands&re worninstall new sealsReplace the
O-rings ifthey are worn
7Install the wiper glandsDo not tighten the screws at this time
8 Lubricate the threads of the retainerInstall unscratched push rodsSecure
he push rods with the retainersO-rings on the retainers should be in good
condition Use the socket wrench and a support to install the
retainersUsing the appropriate torque values shown intorque the
retainers
9Install the plungers and pressure packing
84
3The seal carrier can be used many times because it does not wear
against the plunger like conventional packing brass
If a carrier is reusedremove any burrs or nicks with a file or emery
clothMake certain all the lubricating oil ports and seal grooves are
clean and free of cement or other pumping materialDiscard and
replace carriers that are severely corroded or damaged
Inspect the vee groove for fatigue cracks that may occur with long-term
service
4Lighny oil the outside of the carrierInstall an O-ring in the groove on
the OD of the carrierDo not roll the ring as it slides over the outside of
the carrierSnap a lubricant seal into the groove in the IDThe lube
seal is installed with the lip toward thefluid end
5Check the brass adapter ring to make sure it is not bentRemove any
burrs or cementLike the carrier,the brass adapter ring can be reused
several times Replace it only if the ring is warped
6Install the homogeneous rubber header ring with the flat side toward the
brass adapter
7lightly oil the vee ring packing and install it with the open end of the vee
toward the header ringPull it into place by using the packing-inserting
tool
8Inspect the brass backup ring for wear or damageThese rings usually
last two or three repackingsBurrs or small nicks Can be removed with
emery cloth
9Install the carriertaldng care not to cut the O-ring
10Continue with the assembly of the fluid end
While the accepted standard is that proper pre-load is about equal to a 30-1b
puU on the standard short-packing wrenchit might be be~er to measure th(
amount of compressionThis adjustment should be done using a standard
packing break-in procedure at the service center,not on the the job
Periodic adjustment may be required(at approximately five-job intervals)
because the rubber header ring may relax with time
85