Periodization PDF
Periodization PDF
source: www.metoliusclimbing.com
As an overall strategy, cyclic periodization allows you to be at your peak when you want to be.
Whether this corresponds to a big road trip or pushing your limits when the weather is the best is up to
you. If properly done chances of injury and mental burnout are minimized and gains in strength and
power are optimized.
The concept is simple; build a base of endurance then work toward maximum power. By pushing your
body in these cycles you strike a balance between letting yourself be fresh and strong within the cycles
and not letting yourself totally adapt to the stresses of the workouts. This keeps you from stalling at
different plateaus and makes the gains possible much greater than doing the same sets of workouts
month after month. Immediately following the peak cycle you should be ready to climb strongly. The
Cycle Shown Below Would Start Again In June.
Peak Cycle
Intensity = 80-100%
Load Cycle Volume = Low
I
Loads = High
Repetitions = Low
N Intensity = 75% Frequency = 2-3 days a
Conditioning Cycle Volume = Moderate/ week
High
T Loads = Medium
Intensity = 60% Repetitions = Moderate Maximum strength
Volume = Moderate Frequency = 3-4 days a Recovery Cycle
E
Loads = Low
and power. Most
week
Repetitions = High exercises done to
N Frequency = 2-3 days a Intensity = 50% failure. Taper training
week The foundation, Volume = Low
Loads = Light and focus on climbing
S endurance, Repetitions = Low midway through the
Warm-up and active connective tissue Frequency = 2 days a cycle. After cycle
rest cycle.
I strength, some week
ends, no gym time.
Preparation for more muscle power You should be in
T building. Rest and recovery, prep
strenuous cycles peak condition for the
for peak cycle.
Y
crags for 4 to 6
weeks.
The Exercises
There are good combinations of endurance and power work that can be adapted to training for a
specific climb. Keep in mind some general guidelines when thinking about adapting exercises to
yourself. Power exercises keep durations of tasks short, with heavier or harder loads. Endurance
exercises are longer, less intense; you should feel like you are maintaining a low-level pump. The
easiest element of the exercises to change is generally load; be familiar with the various ways to do
this.
Warming Up
One of the most important steps in muscular development and injury prevention is a thorough warm
up. Generally, the best way to do this is to warm up the large muscles that will be used first, and then
move to the smaller. There are various ways to accomplish this; start with low level aerobics, then
general calisthenics or weight lifting. You can follow this with a series of one or two pull-ups or a 10 to
20 second hang on each hold on your board, with a 30s rest between each task. Take time to stretch
after you are warmed up, once again starting with the large muscles and working your way to your
fingers. After you are completely warmed up give yourself a rest of 5 to 10 minutes before starting the
workout.
Extra Training Tips
1. Always give yourself enough time for a thorough warm-up. This is undoubtedly the best thing
you can do to keep yourself injury free.
3. Personalize your training regime and then stick to it. If you have a balanced program, with
enough variety to keep you motivated you will get stronger. It takes time to see improvements,
patience will make the gains come sooner.
4. If you feel stuck on a major plateau, go back over your original expectations and make sure they
are realistic. Often, stalling may indicate you need more rest or a break from some part of your
routine. Or it may mean take a look at what you can do to improve your motivation. Find a good
partner to train with, dream about your next trip, or think about how good you will feel once
youre done with your workout. Anything you can do to maintain your positive attitude will pay
off big!
Warning All Training Board Users: Training on a hangboard carries risk of injury to fingers,
arms, shoulders and the joints connecting them. Take every precaution to avoid damage to
yourself; warm-up, stretch, don't overtrain and listen to your body. Remember, even under the
best of circumstances, injuries can occur. In addition, however you mount your board, be sure
that it cannot move in any direction. There should be no possible way for the board to come
down while training.