NA-FR-01-95

USDA Forest Service

Northeastern Area State and Private Forestry

HOW to Prune Trees

Peter J. Bedker, Joseph G. OBrien, and Manfred M. Mielke
Illustrations by Julie Martinez, Afton, MN

Introduction

The objective of pruning is to produce strong,

healthy, attractive plants. By understanding
how, when and why to prune, and by following
a few simple principles, this objective can be
achieved.

Why Prune

The main reasons for pruning ornamental and

shade trees include safety, health, and
aesthetics. In addition, pruning can be used to
stimulate fruit production and increase the value
of timber. Pruning for safety (Fig. 1A) involves
removing branches that could fall and cause
injury or property damage, trimming branches
that interfere with lines of sight on streets or
driveways, and removing branches that grow
into utility lines. Safety pruning can be largely
avoided by carefully choosing species that will
not grow beyond the space available to them,
and have strength and form characteristics that
are suited to the site.

Pruning for health (Fig. 1B) involves removing

diseased or insect-infested wood, thinning the
crown to increase airflow and reduce some Figure 1. Reasons for pruning.
pest problems, and removing
crossing and rubbing branches. Pruning can to impose an unnatural form on a tree without a
best be used to encourage trees to develop a commitment to constant maintenance.
strong structure and reduce the likelihood of
damage during severe weather. Removing Pollarding and topiary are extreme examples
broken or damaged limbs encourage wound of pruning to create a desired, unnatural effect.
closure. Pollarding is the practice of pruning trees
annually to remove all new growth. The
Pruning for aesthetics (Fig. 1C) involves following year, a profusion of new branches is
enhancing the natural form and character of produced at the ends of the branches. Topiary
trees or stimulating flower production. Pruning involves pruning trees and shrubs into
for form can be especially important on open- geometric or animal shapes. Both pollarding
grown trees that do very little self-pruning. and topiary are specialized applications that
involve pruning to change the natural form of
All woody plants shed branches in response to trees. As topiary demonstrates, given enough
shading and competition. Branches that do not care and attention plants can be pruned into
produce enough carbohydrates from nearly any form. Yet just as proper pruning
photosynthesis to sustain themselves die and can enhance the form or character of plants,
are eventually shed; the resulting wounds are improper pruning can destroy it.
sealed by woundwood (callus). Branches that
are poorly attached may be broken off by wind Pruning Approaches
and accumulation of snow and ice. Branches
removed by such natural forces often result in Producing strong structure should be the
large, ragged wounds that rarely seal. Pruning emphasis when pruning young trees. As trees
as a cultural practice can be used to mature, the aim of pruning will shift to
supplement or replace these natural processes maintaining tree structure, form, health and
and increase the strength and longevity of appearance.
plants.
Proper pruning cuts are made at a node, the
Trees have many forms, but the most common point at which one branch or twig attaches to
types are pyramidal (excurrent) or spherical another. In the spring of the year growth
(decurrent). Trees with pyramidal crowns, begins at buds, and twigs grow until a new
e.g., most conifers, have a strong central stem node is formed. The length of a branch
and lateral branches that are more or less between nodes is called an internode.
horizontal and do not compete with the central
stem for dominance. Trees with spherical
crowns, e.g., most hardwoods, have many
lateral branches that may compete for
dominance.

To reduce the need for pruning it is best to

consider a tree's natural form. It is very difficult

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 Figure 3. Types of branch unions.

Branches with strong U-shaped angles of

attachment should be retained (Fig 3A).
Branches with narrow, V-shaped angles of
attachment often form included bark and
should be removed (Fig. 3B). Included bark
forms when two branches grow at sharply
acute angles to one another, producing a
wedge of inward-rolled bark between them.
Figure 2. Crown thinning - branches to be removed are
shaded in blue; pruning cuts should be made at the red Included bark prevents strong attachment of
lines. No more than one-fourth of the living branches branches, often causing a crack at the point
should be removed at one time. below where the branches meet. Codominant
stems that are approximately the same size and
The most common types of pruning are: arise from the same position often form
included bark. Removing some of the lateral
1. Crown Thinning (Fig. 2) branches from a codominant stem can reduce
its growth enough to allow the other stem to
Crown thinning, primarily for hardwoods, is become dominant.
the selective removal of branches to increase
light penetration and air movement throughout Lateral branches should be no more than one-
the crown of a tree. The intent is half to three-quarters of the diameter of the
to maintain or develop a tree's structure and stem at the point of attachment. Avoid
form. To avoid unnecessary stress and prevent producing "lions tails," tufts of branches and
excessive production of epicormic sprouts, no foliage at the ends of branches, caused by
more than one-quarter of the living crown removing all inner lateral branches and foliage.
should be removed at a time. If it is necessary Lions tails can result in sunscalding, abundant
to remove more, it should be done over epicormic sprouts, and weak branch structure
successive years. and breakage. Branches that rub or cross

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 2. Crown Raising (Fig. 4)

Crown raising is the practice of removing

branches from the bottom of the crown of a
tree to provide clearance for pedestrians,
vehicles, buildings, lines of site, or to develop a
clear stem for timber production. Also,
removing lower branches on white pines can
prevent blister rust. For street trees the
minimum clearance is often specified by
municipal ordinance. After pruning, the ratio of
the living crown to total tree height should be at
least two-thirds (e.g., a 12 m tree should have
living branches on at least the upper 8 m).

On young trees "temporary" branches may be

retained along the stem to encourage taper and
Figure 4. Crown raising - branches to be removed are protect trees from vandalism and sun scald.
shaded in blue; pruning cuts should be made where Less vigorous shoots should be selected as
indicated with red lines. The ratio of live crown to temporary branches and should be about 10 to
total tree height should be at least two-thirds. 15 cm apart along the stem. They should be
another branch should be removed. pruned annually to slow their growth and
should be removed eventually.
Conifers that have branches in whorls and
pyramidal crowns rarely need crown thinning 3. Crown Reduction (Fig. 5)
except to restore a dominant leader.
Occasionally, the leader of a tree may be Crown reduction pruning is most often used
damaged and multiple branches may become when a tree has grown too large for its
codominant. Select the strongest leader and permitted space. This method, sometimes
remove competing branches to prevent the called drop crotch pruning, is preferred to
development of codominant stems. topping because it results in a more natural
appearance, increases the time before pruning
is needed again, and minimizes stress (see drop
crotch cuts in the next section).

Crown reduction pruning, a method of last

resort, often results in large pruning wounds
to stems that may lead to decay. This method
should never be used on a tree with a
pyramidal growth form. A better long term
solution is to remove the tree and replace it

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 1. Pruning living branches (Fig. 6)

To find the proper place to cut a branch, look

for the branch collar that grows from the stem
tissue at the underside of the base of the branch
(Fig. 6A). On the upper surface, there is
usually a branch bark ridge that runs (more or
less) parallel to the branch angle, along the stem
of the tree. A proper pruning cut does not
damage either the branch bark ridge or the
branch collar.

A proper cut begins just outside the branch

bark ridge and angles down away from the
stem of the tree, avoiding injury to the branch
collar (Fig. 6B). Make the cut as close as
possible to the stem in the branch axil, but
outside the branch bark ridge, so that stem
tissue is not injured and the wound can seal in
the shortest time possible. If the cut is too far
from the stem, leaving a branch stub, the
Figure 5. Crown reduction - branches to be branch tissue usually dies and woundwood
removed are shaded in blue; pruning cuts should be forms from the stem tissue. Wound closure is
made where indicated with red lines. To prevent delayed because the woundwood must seal
branch dieback, cuts should be made at lateral
over the stub that was left.
branches that are at least one-third the diameter of
the stem at their union.
The quality of pruning cuts can be evaluated by
with a tree that will not grow beyond the examining pruning wounds after one growing
available space. season. A concentric ring of woundwood will
form from proper pruning cuts (Fig. 6B).
Pruning Cuts Flush cuts made inside the branch bark ridge
or branch collar, result in pronounced
Pruning cuts should be made so that only development of woundwood on the sides of the
branch tissue is removed and stem tissue is not pruning wounds with very little woundwood
damaged. At the point where the branch forming on the top or bottom (Fig. 7D). As
attaches to the stem, branch and stem tissues described above, stub cuts result in the death of
remain separate, but are contiguous. If only the remaining branch and woundwood forms
branch tissues are cut when pruning, the stem around the base from stem tissues.
tissues of the tree will probably not become When pruning small branches with hand
decayed, and the wound will seal more pruners, make sure the tools are sharp enough
effectively.

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 branch collar. This cut will prevent a
falling branch from tearing the stem
tissue as it pulls away from the tree.
2. The second cut should be outside the
first cut, all the way through the branch,
leaving a short stub.
3. The stub is then cut just outside the
branch bark ridge/branch collar,
completing the operation.

2. Pruning dead branches (Fig. 6)

Prune dead branches in much the same way as

live branches. Making the correct cut is usually
easy because the branch collar and the branch
bark ridge, can be distinguished from the dead
branch, because they continue to grow (Fig.
6A). Make the pruning cut just outside of the
ring of woundwood tissue that has formed,
being careful not to cause unnecessary injury
(Fig. 6C). Large dead branches should be
supported with one hand or cut with the three-
step method, just as live branches. Cutting large
living branches with the three step method is
more critical because of the greater likelihood
of bark ripping.

3. Drop Crotch Cuts (Fig. 6D)

Figure 6. Pruning cuts
A proper cut begins just above the branch bark
ridge and extends through the stem parallel to
to cut the branches cleanly without tearing. the branch bark ridge. Usually, the stem being
Branches large enough to require saws should removed is too large to be supported with one
be supported with one hand while the cuts are hand, so the three cut method should be used.
made. If the branch is too large to support,
make a three-step pruning cut to prevent bark 1. With the first cut, make a notch on the
ripping (Fig. 6C). side of the stem away from the branch
to be retained, well above the branch
1. The first cut is a shallow notch made on crotch.
the underside of the branch, outside the

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 2. Begin the second cut inside the branch
crotch, staying well above the branch
bark ridge, and cut through the stem
above the notch.
3. Cut the remaining stub just inside the
branch bark ridge through the stem
parallel to the branch bark ridge.

To prevent the abundant growth of epicormic

sprouts on the stem below the cut, or dieback
of the stem to a lower lateral branch, make the
cut at a lateral branch that is at least one-third
of the diameter of the stem at their union.

Pruning Practices That Harm

Trees
Topping and tipping (Fig. 7A, 7B) are pruning
practices that harm trees and should not be
used. Crown reduction pruning is the preferred
method to reduce the size or height of the
crown of a tree, but is rarely needed and should
be used infrequently.

Topping, the pruning of large upright branches

between nodes, is sometimes done to reduce
the height of a tree (Fig. 7A). Tipping is a
practice of cutting lateral branches between
nodes (Fig. 7B) to reduce crown width.

These practices invariably result in the

development of epicormic sprouts, or in the
death of the cut branch back to the next lateral
branch below. These epicormic sprouts are
weakly attached to the stem and eventually will
be supported by a decaying branch. stem tissues and can result in decay (Fig. 7D).
Stub cuts delay wound closure and can
Improper pruning cuts cause unnecessary injury provide entry to canker fungi that kill the
and bark ripping (Fig. 7C). Flush cuts injure cambium, delaying or preventing woundwood
formation (Fig. 7E).

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When to Prune including many varieties of crabapple,
hawthorn, pear, mountain ash,
Conifers may be pruned any time of year, but flowering quince and pyracantha,
pruning during the dormant season may should be pruned during the dormant
minimize sap and resin flow from cut branches. season. Check with your county
extension agent or a horticulturist for
Hardwood trees and shrubs without showy additional information.
flowers: prune in the dormant season to easily
visualize the structure of the tree, to maximize ? Trees and shrubs that flower in the
wound closure in the growing season after summer or fall always should be pruned
pruning, to reduce the chance of transmitting during the dormant season (flower buds
disease, and to discourage excessive sap flow will form on new twigs during the next
from wounds. Recent wounds and the chemical growing season, and the flowers will
scents they emit can actually attract insects that flush normally).
spread tree disease. In particular, wounded Dead branches: can be removed any time of
elm wood is known to attract bark beetles that the year.
harbor spores of the Dutch elm disease fungus,
and open wounds on oaks are known to attract
Pruning Tools
beetles that spread the oak wilt fungus. Take
care to prune these trees during the correct Proper tools are essential for satisfactory
time of year to prevent spread of these fatal pruning (Fig.6). The choice of which tool to
diseases. Contact your local tree disease use depends largely on the size of branches to
specialist to find out when to prune these tree be pruned and the amount of pruning to be
species in your area. Usually, the best time is done. If possible, test a tool before you buy it
during the late fall and winter. to ensure it suits your specific needs. As with
most things, higher quality often equates to
Flowering trees and shrubs: these should also higher cost.
be pruned during the dormant season for the
same reasons stated above; however, to Generally speaking, the smaller a branch is
preserve the current year's flower crop, prune when pruned, the sooner the wound created
according to the following schedule: will seal. Hand pruners are used to prune small
branches (under 2.5 cm diameter) and many
? Trees and shrubs that flower in early different kinds are available. Hand pruners can
spring (redbud, dogwood, etc.) should be grouped into by-pass or anvil styles based
be pruned immediately after flowering on the blade configuration. Anvil style pruners
(flower buds arise the year before they have a straight blade that cuts the branch
flush, and will form on the new growth). against a small anvil or block as the handles are
squeezed. By-pass pruners use a curved cutting
? Many flowering trees are susceptible to
blade that slides past a broader lower blade,
fireblight, a bacterial disease that can be
much like a scissors. To prevent unnecessary
spread by pruning. These trees,
tearing or crushing of tissues, it is best to use a

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by-pass style pruner. Left- or right-handed lopping shears, and pole pruners should be
types can be purchased. periodically sharpened with a sharpening stone.
Replacement blades are available for many
Slightly larger branches that cannot be cut with styles. Pruning saws should be professionally
a hand pruner may be cut with small pruning sharpened or periodically replaced. To reduce
saws (up to 10 cm) or lopping shears (up to 7 cost, many styles have replaceable blades.
cm diameter) with larger cutting surfaces and
greater leverage. Lopping shears are also Tools should be clean and sanitized as well as
available in by-pass and anvil styles. sharp. Although sanitizing tools may be
inconvenient and seldom practiced, doing so
For branches too large to be cut with a hand may prevent the spread of disease from
pruner or lopping shears, pruning saws must be infected to healthy trees on contaminated tools.
used. Pruning saws differ greatly in handle Tools become contaminated when they come
styles, the length and shape of the blade, and into contact with fungi, bacteria, viruses and
the layout and type of teeth. Most have other microorganisms that cause disease in
tempered metal blades that retain their trees. Most pathogens need some way of
sharpness for many pruning cuts. Unlike most entering the tree to cause disease, and fresh
other saws, pruning saws are often designed to wounds are perfect places for infections to
cut on the "pull-stroke." begin. Microorganisms on tool surfaces are
easily introduced into susceptible trees when
Chain saws are preferred when pruning subsequent cuts are made. The need for
branches larger than about 10 cm. Chainsaws sanitizing tools can be greatly reduced by
should be used only by qualified individuals. To pruning during the dormant season.
avoid the need to cut branches greater than 10
cm diameter, prune when branches are small. If sanitizing is necessary it should be practiced
as follows: Before each branch is cut, sanitize
Pole pruners must be used to cut branches pruning tools with either 70% denatured
beyond reach. Generally, pruning heads can cut alcohol, or with liquid household bleach diluted
branches up to 4.4 cm diameter and are 1 to 9 with water (1 part bleach, 9 parts
available in the by-pass and anvil styles. Once water). Tools should be immersed in the
again, the by-pass type is preferred. For solution, preferably for 1-2 minutes, and wood
cutting larger branches, saw blades can be particles should be wiped from all cutting
fastened directly to the pruning head, or a surfaces. Bleach is corrosive to metal surfaces,
separate saw head can be purchased. Because so tools should be thoroughly cleaned with
of the danger of electrocution, pole pruners soap and water after each use.
should not be used near utility lines except by
qualified utility line clearance personnel.

To ensure that satisfactory cuts are made and

to reduce fatigue, keep your pruning tools sharp
and in good working condition. Hand pruners,

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Treating wounds General

Tree sap, gums, and resins are the natural ? Prune first for safety, next for health,
means by which trees combat invasion by and finally for aesthetics.
pathogens. Although unsightly, sap flow from ? Never prune trees that are touching or
pruning wounds is not generally harmful; near utility lines; instead consult your
however, excessive "bleeding" can weaken local utility company.
trees. ? Avoid pruning trees when you might
increase susceptibility to important
When oaks or elms are wounded during a pests (e.g. in areas where oak wilt
critical time of year (usually spring for oaks, or exists, avoid pruning oaks in the spring
throughout the growing season for elms) -- and early summer; prune trees
either from storms, other unforeseen susceptible to fireblight only during the
mechanical wounds, or from necessary branch dormant season).
removals -- some type of wound dressing
should be applied to the wound. Do this ? Use the following decision guide for
immediately after the wound is created. In most size of branches to be removed: 1)
other instances, wound dressings are under 5 cm diameter - go ahead, 2)
unnecessary, and may even be detrimental. between 5 and 10 cm diameter - think
Wound dressings will not stop decay or cure twice, and 3) greater than 10 cm
infectious diseases. They may actually interfere diameter - have a good reason.
with the protective benefits of tree gums and
resins, and prevent wound surfaces from Crown Thinning
closing as quickly as they might under natural ? Assess how a tree will be pruned from
conditions. The only benefit of wound the top down.
dressings is to prevent introduction of
pathogens in the specific cases of Dutch elm ? Favor branches with strong, U-shaped
disease and oak wilt. angles of attachment. Remove branches
with weak, V-shaped angles of
attachment and/or included bark.
Pruning Guidelines
? Ideally, lateral branches should be
To encourage the development of a strong, evenly spaced on the main stem of
healthy tree, consider the following guidelines young trees.
when pruning.
? Remove any branches that rub or cross
another branch.
? Make sure that lateral branches are no
more than one-half to three-quarters of
the diameter of the stem to discourage
the development of co-dominant stems.

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 ? Do not remove more than one-quarter provide clearance for pedestrians, vehicles,
of the living crown of a tree at one time. buildings, lines of sight, and vistas by removing
If it is necessary to remove more, do it lower branches.
over successive years.
Crown Reduction Pruning: a method of
pruning used to reduce the height of a tree.
Crown Raising
Branches are cut back to laterals that are at
? Always maintain live branches on at least one-third the diameter of the limb being
least two-thirds of a tree's total height. removed.
Removing too many lower branches
Crown Thinning: a method of pruning to
will hinder the development of a strong
increase light penetration and air movement
stem.
through the crown of a tree by selective
? Remove basal sprouts and vigorous removal of branches.
epicormic sprouts.
Callus: see woundwood.
Crown Reduction Decurrent: a major tree form resulting from
weak apical control. Trees with this form have
? Use crown reduction pruning only when
several to many lateral branches that compete
absolutely necessary. Make the
with the central stem for dominance resulting in
pruning cut at a lateral branch that is at
a spherical or globose crown. Most hardwood
least one-third the diameter of the stem
trees have decurrent forms.
to be removed.
Epicormic Sprout: a shoot that arises from
? If it is necessary to remove more than
latent or adventitious buds; also know as water
half of the foliage from a branch,
sprouts that occur for on stems and branches
remove the entire branch.
and suckers that are produced from the base of
trees. In older wood, epicormic shoots often
Glossary result from severe defoliation or radical pruning.
Branch Axil: the angle formed where a branch Excurrent: a major tree form resulting from
joins another branch or stem of a woody plant. strong apical control. Trees with this form have
Branch Bark Ridge: a ridge of bark that a strong central stem and pyramidal shape.
forms in a branch crotch and partially around Lateral branches rarely compete for
the stem resulting from the growth of the stem dominance. Most conifers and a few
and branch tissues against one another. hardwoods, such as sweetgum and tuliptree,
have excurrent forms.
Branch Collar: a "shoulder" or bulge formed
at the base of a branch by the annual Flush Cuts: pruning cuts that originate inside
production of overlapping layers of branch and the branch bark ridge or the branch collar,
stem tissues. causing unnecessary injury to stem tissues.

Crown Raising: a method of pruning to Included Bark: bark enclosed between

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branches with narrow angles of attachment, Fazio, J. R. ed. 1992. Don't top trees. Tree
forming a wedge between the branches. City USA Bulletin No. 8. Nebraska City, NE:
The National Arbor Day Foundation.
Pollarding: the annual removal of all of the
previous year's growth, resulting in a flush of Harris, R.W. 1994. Clarifying certain pruning
slender shoots and branches each spring. terminology: thinning, heading, pollarding.
Stub Cuts: pruning cuts made too far outside Journal of Arboriculture 20:50-54.
the branch bark ridge or branch collar, that
ISA Performance Guidelines Committee. 1994.
leave branch tissue attached to the stem.
Tree-pruning guidelines. Savoy, IL:
Tipping: a poor maintenance practice used to International Society of Arboriculture.
control the size of tree crowns; involves the
Ryan, H.D.P. III. 1994. Arboricultural pruning
cutting of branches at right angles leaving long
methodologies. Arborist News Volume
stubs.
3(4):33-38.
Topping: a poor maintenance practice often
Shigo, A. 1991. Modern arboriculture.
used to control the size of trees; involves the
Durham, NH: Shigo & Trees, Associates.
indiscriminate cutting of branches and stems at
right angles leaving long stubs. Synonyms Shigo, A. 1989. Tree pruning: a worldwide
include rounding-over, heading-back, photo guide. Durham, NH: Shigo & Trees,
dehorning, capping and hat-racking. Topping is Associates.
often improperly referred to as pollarding.
Topiary: the pruning and training of a plant
into a desired geometric or animal shape.
Woundwood: lignified, differentiated tissues
produced on woody plants as a response to
wounding (also known as callus tissue).

References
ANSI Z133.1. 1994. Safety standards.
American national standard for tree care
operators. Washington, DC: American
National Standards Institute. How to Prune Trees was written to help
ANSI A300. 1995. Standard practices for people properly prune the trees they care
tree, shrub, and other woody plant about. If you doubt your ability to safely
maintenance. Washington, DC: American prune large trees, please hire a professional
National Standards Institute. arborist. Information in this publication can
be used to interview and hire a competent
arborist.

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