Lonely Planet Publications

824 lonelyplanet.com A N G O L A H i g h l i g h t s 825

Angola
HIGHLIGHTS
Luanda (p828) Expansive beaches, expen- HOW MUCH?


sive bars and tatty overcrowded town-
Internet per hour US$3
ships, Luanda is a kaleidoscopic vision

Cup of coffee US$1.50
of Angola at the sharp end.

Parque Nacional da Kissama (p832) One of
Car rental per day US$60
Africas largest, emptiest and most sur-
Bottle of wine US$20
real wildlife parks.
Angola is an eye-opener in more ways than one. Scarred painfully by years of debilitating
Average meal US$10

BenguelaLobito Railway (p833) Rattling
warfare and untouched by foreign visitors since the early 1970s, the country remains remote and bumping through Benguelas rural
and undiscovered, with few observers privy to the geographic highlights and vast cultural pastiche is a unique and unforgettable LONELY PLANET INDEX
riches that lie hidden behind an ostensibly violent veneer. Angolan experience.
Lubango (p835) Almost untouched by the
1L petrol US$0.50


But, with the recent cessation of a 40-year civil conflict ushering in a prolonged period of war, breezy Lubango offers cascading
1L bottled water US$1.50

peace and stability, opportunities for exploration are quietly opening up. For outsiders the waterfalls, spectacular volcanic fissures
Bottle of beer US$2
and a vibrant small city ambiance.
attractions are manifold. Despite widespread poverty, inbred corruption and an infrastructure
Souvenir T-shirt US$10

Miradouro de Lua (p833) A spectacular
devastated by decades of indiscriminate fighting, Angola holds a lure that few other coun- lookout over a canyon of moonlike cliffs
Baguette US$1
tries can match. Here in the heady heat of equatorial Africa youll encounter some of the that cascade dramatically into the Atlan-
continents most gracious people and discover many of its most closely guarded secrets. tic Ocean.
where you can soak up the fresh moun-
Chill out on expansive beaches, sample the solitude in virgin wildlife parks or sift through CLIMATE & WHEN TO GO tain air and make a nifty side trip to
the ruins of Portuguese colonialism. From Luanda to Lubango the nuances are startling. Situated on the Atlantic littoral in a balmy unhurried Namibe (p835). Backtrack to
subtropical setting, Angolas climate is heav- battle-scarred Huambo (p834) for a few
Despite advancements in infrastructure and a dramatically improved security situation, ily influenced by three local peculiarities; days before returning by plane to the
travel in Angola remains the preserve of adventurers, diehards or those on flexible budgets.
the cool Benguela sea current, the rugged capital.
interior mountains and the presence of the
But with the transport network gradually recovering and wildlife being shipped in to re- Namib Desert in the southeast. As a result, the HISTORY
populate decimated national parks, the signs of recovery are more than just a mirage. country boasts a number of distinct climatic Angolas often violent and bloody history has
regions, including a wet, tropical northern left a country endowed with a vast expanse of
Angola is halfway along the road to political and economic atonement and it would be jungle, a dryer and cooler central plateau, natural resources and development possibili-
a shame to miss out on its dramatic rebirth. and an arid southern belt influenced by its ties perennially trying to stave off starvation. A
proximity to the Kalahari Desert. terrain rich in oil, diamonds, iron ore and cop-
Although different regions vary significantly, per, plus a measurable hydroelectric capacity,
FAST FACTS the best time to visit Angola is during the cooler has the potential to be one of Africas richest

Area 1,246,700 sq km dryer months of June to September. states. Instead, the more common reality is of
a nation of shattered infrastructure and dev-
ANGOLA

ANGOLA

ATMs They exist, but dont generally
accept foreign cards
ITINERARIES astated towns struggling to feed a desperately

One Week Visit Luandas Fortaleza de So poor and eternally uprooted population.

Borders Congo, Democratic Republic of Miguel (p830), along with the citys se-
Congo, Zambia and Namibia lection of churches and museums before Another Lost Empire

Budget US$120 per day heading south to Benfica market (p831) In 1483 Vasco da Gama first dropped anchor

Capital Luanda for a spot of heated bargaining. Continue in Luanda Bay and unwittingly pre-empted the
along the coast road to the Miradouro start of a conflict that, save for a few intermit-

Languages Portuguese and various Bantu
languages de Lua (p833) and the Kwanza River tent lulls in the fighting, went on for over half
(p833), and round off the proceedings a millennium. The land now known as Angola

Money Kwanza; US$1 = 80Kz with a quick tour of Parque Nacional da was, at the time, inhabited by a number of

Population 14 million (estimated) Kissama (p832). small tribes living in loosely defined kingdoms

Seasons Dry (June to September), wet (October to May)
Two Weeks to One Month Follow the Luanda that lacked the organisation and administra-
itinerary before catching a bus south tive cohesiveness of 15th-century Europe. But

Telephone Country code %244; international access code
for the spectacular journey to Benguela despite a natural curiosity borne out of years
%00
(p833) and Lobito. A train ride on the of seafaring exploration, the Portuguese had

Time GMT/UTC + 1 famous Benguela railway (p834) between no real desire to settle on this malaria-ridden

Visas US$75 for 30 days; must be obtained in advance the regions two provincial coastal cit- African shoreline. Post 1500 the more fertile
ies is a must. Fly on to Lubango (p835), and less threatening lands of Brazil held a far
 826 A N G O L A H i s t o r y lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com A N G O L A C u l t u re 827

ANGOLA 0
0
300 km
180 miles
was legendary in its ineptitude, converting Angola Today
CONGO KINSHASA central Luanda into a ghost town and robbing Since 2002 Angola has entered a period of
the country of its qualified human resources peace and regeneration unprecedented in its

r
ve
Ri
CABINDA
(ANGOLA) Cong
o
DEMOCRATIC REPUBLIC OF CONGO
and administrative structure. history. With the 85,000-strong Unita army, re-
Not surprisingly, Angola in 1975 possessed integrated into the national forces and old ani-
Cabinda Matadi all the essential ingredients for an impending mosities ceremoniously brushed underneath
Soyo
Maquela do
Zombo
civil war. An uneven and weak infrastruc- the carpet, the biggest obstacles to war and
M'Banza
Congo Quimbele
ture, low levels of health and education, two instability have been temporarily neutralised.
feuding sets of tribally based elites and the But the country still faces massive chal-

N'Zeto
inviting prospect of a large slice of unused lenges before it can right four decades of eco-

Cu
Uige

an
government-oil revenue up for grabs. As the nomic and political ineptitude. Corruption is
go
Negage LUNDA
Caxito Luremo NORTE Moscow-backed MPLA party stepped into the most pressing problem. In 2004 Human
LUANDA a dangerous power vacuum, a combination Rights Watch, an independent lobby group,
River
N'Dalatando Quedas do
Miradouro de Lua
Tarpon Lodge
Lucala Calandula of new outside factors were dutifully thrown estimated that US$4 billion of Angolas unde-
Parque Dondo Malange Saurimo into an already crowded arena: US communist clared oil revenue had gone missing since the

Nacional da Pedras Parque Cuango
Kissama
Porto
Negras Nacional da paranoia, Cubas ambiguous aim to promote late 1990s. Voices inside the IMF were raised
Amboin
Quibala
Cangandala
LUNDA Luau world revolution, South African security ob- and supervisors were sent to investigate. The
ATLANTIC
Gabela SUL Dilolo
sessions and the woefully inadequate process conclusion: either the ever-elusive President
Sumbe
Kwa

OCEAN Andulo y of decolonisation. The stage was set. Eduardo dos Santos was employing a very
ailwa
nza

ela R Angolas second major war was a long, creative team of accountants or something,
engu Parque
The B Luena Nacional da
Camacupa
Lobito
Bailundo
Kunhinga Cameia protracted affair dominated by foreign in- somewhere, was clearly not adding up.
Ri

Munhango

Kuito
ve

Benguela Calenga tervention. Indeed, for the next 15 years the It is these financial anomalies that have
r

Cubal Huambo
Baa Azul
wishes and desires of the Angolan people prevented the lions share of Angolas new
Cuima
Barragam
were consistently undermined as foreign peacetime economy from trickling down to
do Gove meddlers and Western business interests con- the majority of the poorest classes. While
Lu
ngu

Cacula
Kuvango
Menongue tinued to fight greedily among themselves skyscrapers reach new heights in Luanda and
e-B

Tunda-Vala Lubango Matala Longa over a damaged and increasingly beleaguered oil-obsessed government ministries forge in-
ung

Leba ZAMBIA country. vestment deals with China and India, poverty
o

Namibe Mountain Rd Capelongo

Flamingo Cuito Cuanavale
Lodge Reserva de Parque in the countryside remains rampant and wide-
Cu

Tombua Namibe Nacional do

War & Peace spread. One can only hope that the second
ban

Parque
River

Bicuar
Nacional da
go

Parque
Nacional do
Mupa In 1991, prompted by the end of the Cold post-independence elections (which will take
r
Cu ve War, a ceasefire agreement was set in place place sometime before December 31, 2007,
River

Iona
ne Ri Ondjiva
ne Namacunda
Calueque
Santa Clara by Cuba, the USA and Angola. But the accord according to Angolan president, Eduardo Dos
Koaleck Oshikango Calai
Ruacana
Okavango River broke down the following year after Unita, Santos) will address some of these issues.
NAMIBIA Rundu having lost a general election (seen by the UN Economically speaking, Angolas future
To Windhoek
(450km) BOTSWANA
as largely free and fair), returned to war with is brighter than it has been for decades. In
a newfound ferocity, claiming the poll was 2007 the country which currently churns
ANGOLA

ANGOLA
rigged. Almost 200,000 people died between out 1.4 billion barrels of oil per day is due to
greater attraction for colonial farmers and for the Liberation of Angola (FNLA) was sup- May and October 1993 as Unita took war to join the Organization of Petroleum Exporting
businessmen. For the next 300 years Portu- ported by northern tribes, Democratic Re- the provincial cities, destroying most of the Countries (OPEC) and this empowering move
gals African colonies had only two real func- public of Congo (DRC) and anti-communist road, rail and communications network. towards the hub of the world economy will
tions: a strategic base on the route around the Western countries; the Popular Movement A revamped Lusaka Accord signed in 1994 give Dos Santos and his government a good
Cape of Good Hope, and a collecting centre for the Liberation of Angola (MPLA) began was consistently violated by both the governing deal more clout on the international stage.
for one of the largest forced human migra- with Marxist sensibilities and was supported MPLA and Unita, and the discovery of new
tions in history. by southern tribes, the USSR, Cuba and other diamond areas and oilfields allowed both sides CULTURE
Not surprisingly, slavery did little to endear Soviet allies; and the National Union for Total to re-arm. UN sanctions (from 1998) against Angolans are Africas perennial survivors, an
the colonials to the Angolan people. Clashes Independence of Angola (Unita) originally Unita diamonds caused Unitas cash supply to open and gregarious populace whose spirit
first began after WWII and were inflamed had the support of the Ovimbundu, but later shrivel, and its control of the countryside gradu- once garnered is highly infectious and whose
in 1961 when the colonial authorities began formed alliances with the Portuguese right ally crumbled. Increasing military defeats drove fortitude is nothing short of remarkable. Badly
to crush increasingly zealous uprisings from wing, the USA and apartheid South Africa. a desperate Unita deeper into the hinterland damaged by the longstanding tribal conflicts
dissidents. In 1975 the Portuguese finally granted inde- and hunted and on the run its leader Jonas that set neighbour against neighbour through-
The initial independence movement split pendence to Angola following the overthrow Savimbi was finally killed in a well-planned out the 1980s and 90s, Angolan culture has
into three main groups in line with the various of the fascist Salazar government at home. But government operation on 22 February 2002. remained defiantly intact in a country divided
tribal affiliations (and international interests) the colonial withdrawal a mad scramble that A new peace accord was signed on 4 April by complex ethnic loyalties and 42 different
they claimed to represent. The National Front involved one of the biggest airlifts in history 2002. indigenous languages. At the forefront of
 828 LUA N D A H i s t o r y lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com LUA N D A 829

this colourful artistic patchwork is Angolan loquially as the Ilha, the balmy ocean-side LUANDA 0
0
1 km
0.6 miles
music, a rich and varied collection of offshoots setting is as spectacular as it is exotic. The
and sub-genres, with styles such as kizombe, sweeping vistas would be even more stunning
samba, zouk and rebita manifesting themselves if it werent for the teeming bairros (town- INFORMATION Igreja de Nossa Senhora dos 32
A Nave.........................................1 B5 Remedios...............................16 B5
in countless dances and romantic songs. ships) and ramshackle makeshift dwellings British Embassy............................2 A5 Mausolu de Agostinho Neto.... 17 A6 31
5

Life in Angola is extremely hard. Many cur- that have taken root around Angolas rap- Charme Tours..............................3 B5 Museu Central das Foras
Clinica da Mutamba.....................4 B5 Armadas..............................(see 14)
able diseases are rife, GDP per capita is among idly expanding capital in the 30 years since Clinica Sagrada Esperanca............5 D1 Museu de Antropologia.............18 A5
ed
the worlds lowest and in 1999 the UN declared independence. Correios Commcenter................(see 9) Museu de Histria Natural..........19 B5
oh
am
Department of Immigration Palcio de Ferro..........................20 B5 M
the country the worst on the planet for a child Built for a healthy half million, Luanda (DEFA).....................................6 A5 t ala
ur
to grow up in. But for guarded optimists hope now bursts with 3.5 million beleaguered in- DHL.............................................7 C6
German Embassy..........................8 B5 Av
M

springs eternal. Since 2002 many migrs have habitants and the evidence of this rampant Post Office...................................9 B5
returned to reclaim their businesses and farms, overpopulation resonates everywhere. Whiff Somitour....................................10 A5
South African Embassy...............11 B6 an
da
Lu
and economic activity throughout the country the stench of fetid water that intoxicates US Embassy...............................12 C5 ad
e
Ilh
has been kick-started. Angolas participation early-morning joggers on the picturesque SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES SLEEPING
in the 2006 Fottball World Cup was like a Marginal promenade, dodge the manic lines Banco Nacional de Angola..........13 B5 Hotel Globo................................21 B5
Fortaleza de So Miguel.............14 A5
lightening bolt that reawakened a tired yet of traffic that make hot afternoons in grid- Igreja de Nossa Senhora de am
ed
Hotel Panorama.........................22 A3
Hotel Trpico.............................23 B5
h
ever-hopeful population. locked central Luanda even more cauldron- Nazar....................................15 B5
ala
Mo
urt EATING
like, and contemplate how running water and Av
M
Club Nautico..............................24 A4
PEOPLE electricity are still comparative luxuries for Fish Stalls...................................25 A4
Jardim Esplanada Nilo................ 26 A5
Angolas cornucopia of ethnic groups is all but a highly privileged (and often foreign) Kimbo........................................27 B5
dominated by the Ovimbundu, Kimbundu minority. But despite such calamitous prob- Nandos.......................................28 B5
Portuglia..................................29 A4
and Bakongo. Local tribal traditions remain lems, Luanda still manages to retain a dash of Restaurante Chez Wou..............30 A4
strong, though Portuguese has evolved as panache in the face of all this adversity.
ENTERTAINMENT
the national language of choice, particularly Chill Out....................................31 D1
22
among the young. Due in part to its volatile HISTORY Restaurante Bordo....................32 D1

history, much of Angolas cultural legacy has Founded as So Paulo de Loanda on the Ilha Baia TRANSPORT
De
been exported abroad through slavery and de Cabo by 400 Portuguese soldiers and 100 36
Luanda Aeroflot.....................................33 B5
Air France..................................34 B5
emigration where it has re-emerged in ele- families in 1575, the settlement was moved Air Gabon................................(see 38)
ments of modern Brazilian culture, such as the to the mainland one year later. In 1605 Lu- Air Portugal................................35 B5

med
Avis.........................................(see 23)

oha
samba, carnival, Afro-American religion and a anda became a city, and two centuries later British Airways...........................36 A3

la M
Equador......................................37 B5
combative martial art, known as Capoeira. its resplendent buildings and flourishing Ethiopian Airlines.......................38 C4

urta
trade earned it the title of the Paris of Af- Local Bus Terminal......................39 B5

M
Porto Comercial de
ENVIRONMENT rica. But the Napoleonic comparisons didnt 30 TAAG.........................................40 B5

Av
Luanda Ministrio da
24 Hotelaria e Turismo
Angolas 1650km of Atlantic coastline hosts a last. Despite sitting out the worst of the dis- 25 29 38
plethora of unspoiled beaches, and the sedi- astrous civil war, Luanda quickly became a Luanda Central
Train Station
mentary deposits of numerous full-flowing refugee camp for millions of desperate inter-
Miramar
rivers have led to the formation of a handful of nally displaced people fleeing the fighting. R Houari
ANGOLA

ANGOLA
14 35 15 Praa do Ambiente da

Bo u
kon

Av
distinctive coastal sandbars, such as Mussulo Packed to the rafters, its still getting over the Chicala-I Largo de Pedro
33 27 R Joaquim de Figueiredo
ji
An

4
Alexandrino de Cunha 8 ed

m
Lu

De
and La Ilha in Luanda and Restinga in Lobito. shock. Fe 34 i e n ne

asser
12

Gi lo
ve inal) a De

ha gu

Abd Gamal
(Marg R Ndunduma

ng
2 rei
10 R
The countrys grassy savannah provides the

ain yan
Chicala-II 18 ro 13 Cemitrio

el N
6R 9 37 20

n
do Alto

R Di o
26 Sambizanga
ORIENTATION

Ka
Ca
Fri
setting for six national parks, namely: Iona, ed r 16 R Ma j or R das Cruzes

R
ich
Eng 3 21 Av
Bicuar, Mupa, Kissama, Cameia and Can- The airport is 4km south of Luanda. The city els

go
28 1 R 19
da 23 R Nossa Senhora da Mxima
R Manuel Mutamba 39 Miss
gandala. Due to the devastation wreaked by itself is set along a harbour overlooking the Caldeiras Governo
o
40
R Coneg
o Manue
l Das Neves
R Angola Kiluanje
Palcio do Provincial Av D
decades of civil war, the wildlife in these parks 7km-long Ilha de Luanda (the Ilha). The

LA
Governo Central 4 e Po
rtug Av C

P
al oman

oM
has been almost completely eradicated. 2km promenade along the harbour, Av 4 de Imprensa R Pedro Felix Av R Re
i Kat
dante
Valod
ia

e
ess
Nacional Machado Cm yava

um
Fevereiro, is known as the Marginal and is dt la

ngr

Mand
LUANDA
Quinanga Ch
the heart of the city. It hosts the reserve bank, Co e
ecou
Maculusso Gu
bango Pr
1.e
ev R Ngola M
head offices and international airlines. South

R Rei
ar
a
Av

11 7
17
along the Marginal is Mutamba, where you are Hospitais R Kw
am
%222 / pop 3.5 million
Infecto
most likely to stay, play and get away second i Nelito Soares
al

Contagioso
m
a br

N k r u m ah
e
ba

Hot, heaving, oil rich and cash poor, Luanda only to the Ilha (1km away), with its endless
rC
m

Estdio Nacional
Sa

ilca

Zona
is a city of unfathomable contrasts and viv- beaches, bars and restaurants. North of the city Da Cidadela
Da

Verde
m

Biblioteca Nacional
RA
R

idly shocking extremes. Perched tantalis- and up the hill from the Marginal is Miramar, To Benfica Market (15km);
Benguela (692km) To Karl Marx (1km); Televiso
ingly on the Atlantic coastline overlooking home to the president, most of the embassies, Hotel Alvalade (1.5km); Pblica de Angola
Aeroporto 4 Fevereiro (2.5km)
a narrow pine-fringed sandbar known col- rich oil expats and poor Angolans.
 830 LUA N D A I n f o r m a t i o n lonelyplanet.com Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com LUA N D A S l e e p i n g 831

INFORMATION imitation), or an eye-catching watch. Keep Independence Day is held on 11 November Jardim Esplanada Nilo (Av Rainha Ginga) A salubri-
Internet Access money in a hidden money belt, and dont use and is also celebrated on the streets, with the ous tree-covered patio offering drinks and
Internet access cost around US$3 per hour. All a mobile phone on the street (phone robbery added bonus of a public address and a few sweet tasting snacks.
the top hotels have internet facilities. is one of Luandas most common crimes). See words from his nibs, the president. Nandos (cnr Rua Amilcar Cabral & Rainha Ginga) This
Good, centrally located options: also Dangers & Annoyances, p835. place mixes air-conditioned comfort with
A Nave (Rua da Misso, 55) Located at the back of a SLEEPING convenience food, serving Portuguese-style
decent pizza joint. SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES There are a handful of classy hotels in Lu- peri-peri chicken and french fries. Next door
Correios Commcenter (Largo de Pedro Alexandrino de The curvaceous sweep of the harbour-side anda, but most rooms are grossly overpriced. is Steers, a South African burger chain.
Cunha, Mutamba) In the post office building. Marginal (Av 4 de Fevereiro) makes an interesting Expect to pay US$80 upwards for anything Restaurante Chez Wou (%30 93 94) Angolas
stroll at any time of day. Look out for the half-decent. Chinese presence can be experienced (and
Medical Services striking domed pink faade of the Banco Na- Hotel Globo (%33 21 79; Rua Rainha Ginga, 100; s/d tasted) quite literally at this businesslike es-
There are many 24-hour farmacias (pharma- cional de Angola (Av 4 de Fevereiro, 151) designed by US$42/63) Rock-bottom Luanda style with clean- tablishment at the entrance to the Ilha.
cies) in the capital. Luandas best clinics: architect Vasco Regaleira and inaugurated ish, moth-eaten rooms in a centrally located Portuglia (%30 96 77) Portuguese fare of-
Clinica da Mutamba (%39 37 83, emergency 39 72 in 1956. Architectural buffs will also want to position. General facilities beg for a major fered in abundance on the Ilha, with good
22; Rua Pedro Felix Machado, 10/12) A one-stop medical check the Palcio de Ferro (Rua Major Kanyangulo), renovation. service and pleasant surroundings.
facility that includes a pharmacy. designed by Frenchman Gustave Eiffel (of Hotel Panorama (%30 90 74; Av Murtala Mohamed; Club Nautico (Av Murtala Mohamed) A classy res-
Clinica Sagrada Esperanca (%30 90 34; Av Murtala Eiffel Tower fame) in the 1890s for the Paris s/d US$66/79) This scruffy haunt has been a per- taurant in Luandas yacht club serving every-
Mohamed, Ilha de Luanda; h24hr) Located near the end Universal Exhibition. The construction was manent feature on the Luanda landscape since thing from tasty chicken to bog-standard
of the Ilha. dismantled and brought to Luanda in 1902 the early 1970s, but its magnificent setting on funje (ground maize).
Luanda has a smattering of old colonial the Ilha facing the harbour belies a spectacu-
Money churches hidden among the skyscrapers. A bit larly grotty interior. Prepare yourself for dank, ENTERTAINMENT
You can change money in banks and major of careful searching will reveal the diminutive dark bathrooms and characterless rooms, and Many flock to the Ilha in the evenings to such
hotels without a passport. There are plenty Igreja de Nossa Senhora de Nazar (Praa do Ambiente), arrive armed with a mosquito net. trendy haunts as Chill Out (%30 99 63; Av Murtala
of options for changing money on the street dating from 1664, and the impressive double- Hotel Trpico (%37 00 70; Rua da Misso, 103; s/d Mohamed) and Restaurante Bordo (%30 90 28; Av
(where you may get a better rate). Since 2003 domed faade of the Igreja de Nossa Senhora US$250/290; apis) An international-class Murtala Mohamed) that seem more redolent of
the kwanza has remained relatively stable, dos Remedios (Rua Rainha Ginga), built in 1655 and hotel with rooms and facilities (including a Miami than Luanda.
floating around 80Kz to 83Kz for US$1. restored in 1995. top-notch gym and free internet) almost de- Karl Marx (Rua de Oliveira Martins, 19) This poign-
The Fortaleza de So Miguel guarding the serving of its astronomic price tag. antly named, large semi-outdoor bar-cinema
Post & Telephone entrance to the bay was constructed by the Hotel Alvalade (%32 74 70; Rua Emdio Mbindi; s/d screens Hollywood flicks with Portuguese
The post office (Largo de Pedro Alexandrino de Cunha, Portuguese in 1576 and is Luandas oldest sur- US$250/290; api) On a par with Trpico, subtitles. It occasionally hosts a performance
Mutamba), just off the Marginal, is in a large, viving building. Altered in 1664, whereupon but in a slightly more removed location (near group from Lisbon or Brazil. Check Jornal de
historic building dating from 1850. Unfor- it took its present star shape, the fort today the airport), the Alvalade is glitzy and swanky, Angola for daily listings.
tunately, the postal system is similarly anti- houses the Museu Central das Foras Armadas (ad- and spanking new.
quated. In case of urgency, DHL (%39 51 80; Av mission US$2.50; h9am-6pm) and offers sweeping SHOPPING
Cmdt Che Guevara, 52A) is a faster and more expen- views of the city below. Other museums worth EATING & DRINKING The best place to shop is at Benfica market,
sive option. seeing are the Museu de Antropologia (Rua Friedrich With some subtle gastronomic know-how 16km south of Luanda on the Kissama road.
The best public telephones are located at Engels; donation accepted; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri), with and a budget of US$10 and upwards for an The atmosphere is relatively hassle free, and
ANGOLA

ANGOLA
the post office. its African masks, musical instruments and edible meal, visitors to Luanda certainly wont the handicrafts deftly sculpted and authentic.
indigenous hunting artefacts housed in an starve. In fact, many of the myriad eating Dont buy the ivory.
Tour Operators old colonial building, and the Museu de Histria establishments that lie dotted around the city
Charme Tours (%222-39 64 99, 222-39 74 99; www Natural (Rua Nossa Senhora da Mxima, 47; h11am-5pm centre are better than advance publicity would GETTING THERE & AWAY
.charmetours.com; Congresso MPLA, 33/35) Tue-Sun), which boasts two permanent exhibi- have you believe. Thanks to the legacy of the You can fly daily between Luanda and almost
Somitour (%39 90 91, 33 79; 65 Rua Manuel F Caldeira tions in its marine and mammal halls. Portuguese, pastelerias (pastry and coffee every major Angolan city with one of five
3A/3B) Unmistakable on the Luanda skyline is the shops) have a distinctly European flavour. different airlines (see p837). Destinations in-
thin needle-like structure of the Mausolu de Street food is easy to procure from the bar- clude Benguela (US$110), Cabinda (US$95),
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES Agostinho Neto, Angolas first president. At the rio women who sell fruit and baguette-like Huambo (US$120), Malange (US$95), Na-
Although Luanda isnt, on first impressions, time of writing it was still unfinished and, as sandwiches from washing bowls in the thor- mibe (US$130), Ondjiva (US$135) and
as dangerous as many other African cities, yet, is not open to the public. oughfares around the city centre. More estab- Lubango (US$125). All flights depart from
it is important for visitors to keep their wits lished street vendors sell beer, bags of roasted the domestic terminal at Aeroporto 4 de
about them and abide by a few basic safety FESTIVALS & EVENTS nuts, and barbecued chicken and corn. The Fevereiro.
precautions. Being robbed is one of the biggest The Carnival is held in February and is set along beach at Chicala at the southwest end of the You can hire cars from Avis (%32 15 51),
dangers youll encounter, although strolling the Marginal. Its a jovial and open affair, most Ilha has some great outdoor fish stalls. which has offices at the airport and at Hotel
around the central areas during the daytime notable for its ubiquitous half-dead cats (of Kimbo (%923 474 841; Rua Joaquim de Figueiredo, Trpico, and Equador (%33 07 46; Largo Tristo
is relatively low risk. Dont walk anywhere at which Angolans are very superstitious) tied 15) Just off the Marginal, Kimbo is great for a da Cunha, 11/12). Rental prices start per day at
night. Dont wear gold or silver jewellery (even to costumes and crucifixes. mid-morning coffee or a buffet-style lunch. US$60 for a sedan or US$120 for 4WD; car
 832 C OA S TA L A N G O L A Pa r q u e N a c i o n a l d a K i s s a m a & A r o u n d lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com C OA S TA L A N G O L A B e n g u e l a 833

There is also a restaurant on site that serves Benguela was once an important slave port
OPERATION NOAHS ARK meals for US$15 to US$18. Wildlife viewing and the embarkation point for shiploads of
A one-time habitat for giant herds of rhino, elephant and buffalo, Parque Nacional da Kissama can be organised from US$10 per person for human cargo bound for Brazil. With the onset
suffered inexorably during Angolas acrimonious civil war when wildlife numbers plummeted to two hours. of the 20th century, it became the terminus for
little more than zero. Those animals not finished off by landmines or sporadic military crossfire, Other natural attractions in the area include the Benguela railway (below), though its posi-
quickly fell prey to poachers or were eaten by desperate locals anxious to stave off starvation. the Miradouro de Lua, a veritable moonscape of tion as an Atlantic port was rapidly upsurged
But in 1996, with the end of the war in sight, the newly formed Kissama Foundation in tandem rust and silver-coloured rock formations that by neighbouring Lobito. Spared a direct hit in
with the Angolan government hatched an ingenious relief plan aimed at rehabilitating the park cascade like a mini Grand Canyon into the the bloody 40-year civil war, Benguela retains
by importing elephants from wildlife reserves in South Africa and Botswana. Called Operation Atlantic just off the LuandaBenguela coast a laid-back ambience in a bustling big-city
Noahs Ark, this pioneering aid project re-trained ex-soldiers as game wardens, instructed local road, approximately 30km south of the capital. setting. Youll encounter little hassle here and
villagers in how to manage camp sites and refurbished old buildings as tourist bungalows. After Boat trips (US$100) on the nearby Kwanza River make plenty of spontaneous friends.
four years of painstaking preparations, Kissama received its first stock of air-lifted animals in reveal copious amounts of birdlife, and can also Benguelas yellow-sand beaches are rightly
2000 when 16 elephants were flown in on a Russian cargo plane from South Africa. One year be organised through Kurika Safari Park or at famous, with the centrally located Praia Morena
later and the park was topped up with a further stock of 16 elephants, 12 zebras, 12 ostriches, the nearby Tarpon Lodge (%88-163 151 9324). acting as one of the citys unofficial meet-
14 wildebeests and four giraffes. The only practical way of getting to the ing points. Watch out for svelte-looking
The ultimate aim of Operation Noahs Ark is to transport up to 500 elephants from the over- park is either with an organised group (see athletes practicing their Capoeira here early
populated Tuli Block in Eastern Botswana by road and ship in what will be one of the largest p830) or with a hire car. It is recommended in the morning. The most popular out-of-
translocations of wild animals ever attempted. that you hire both a car and a driver who town beach is Baa Azul, situated 20km to the
Though progress has been slow, early signs suggest that the project has been a success, and knows the route in Luanda. south on the road to Baa Farta (accessible by
in 2001 the first elephant calf was born to Kissamas newly established herd. Hiace bus).
BENGUELA The towns only museum is the tiny Museu
%2722 / pop 200,000 de Arqueolgica, situated on the seafront in an
and driver from US$15 an hour. The chaotic Benguela via Port Amboin, Sumbe and Lo- Coastal Benguela is Angolas second most im- old warehouse that was once a holding shed
nature of Luanda traffic makes hiring a driver bito, closely followed by the spectacular drive portant city and the self-proclaimed cultural for captured slaves. The church of Nossa Sen-
highly recommended. in the southwest from Lubango to Namibe. capital. Nestled on the shores of the Atlantic hora do Ppulo (Av Combatentes da Grande Guerra) was
Other passable routes (with a 4WD) include approximately 30km south of the port of Lo- built in 1748 from stone carried in ships from
GETTING AROUND BenguelaHuambo, LuandaMalange, Lu- bito, the city is surrounded by fine beaches Brazil as ballast and is Benguelas most beguil-
Luandas airport, Aeroporto 4 de Fevereiro, bangoSanta Clara (Namibian border) and and bisected by the lush and agriculturally ing building. Other gems include the Palcio
is 4km south of Luanda, with the domestic LubangoHuambo. Join up the dots and youll important Cavaco River valley; a veritable das Bolas (Av Agonstinho Neto), used as a headquar-
terminal next to the international one. quickly find that, with a decent car, plenty of oasis of green in an otherwise dry and arid ters by the provincial MPLA party, and the
For getting around Luanda, buses and the patience and a gung-ho sense of adventure, desert. Founded by the Portuguese in 1617, Palcio do Governo facing the beach.
ubiquitous Hiaces (blue-and-white Toyota you can now get from Namibia to Luanda via
Hiaces) start from a terminus in Mutamba, 2000km of rough, bone-rattling but seriously
in front of the pale pink Governo Provincial spectacular roads. THE BENGUELA RAILWAY
building. They go to most places within Lu- Commissioned by the Portuguese in 1899 and built by the British over the ensuing 30 years,
anda and nearby (US$0.50 to US$1). Bus stops PARQUE NACIONAL DA KISSAMA & the Benguela railway comprised a feat of engineering unmatched elsewhere in Africa. During its
are conspicuous by their long queues. Private AROUND heyday in the 1960s and 70s the track stretched 1370km (850 miles) from the Atlantic port of
ANGOLA

ANGOLA
taxis are 4WDs; try Macontaxi (%47 05 20), which Kissama (also spelt Quiama), situated 70km Lobito to Luau on the DRC border, and ran an impressive stock of 69 steam locomotives.
charges approximately US$25 an hour with south of Luanda, is Angolas most accessible But Angolas bitter civil war quickly put an end to the railways glory days. By the early 1990s
driver. It has an office at the airport. and well-stocked wildlife park. Inaugurated this once great link in southwest Africas burgeoning oil, diamond and copper-based economy
There is a daily bus service running 600km as a nature reserve in 1938 and upgraded to had by a combination of ambush, sabotage and serial mine-laying been reduced to a 30km
along the coast between Benguela and Lu- a national park in 1957, this 990,000-hectare spur between the twin coastal cities of Benguela and Lobito.
anda. Three companies make this spectacular swathe of coastal savannah punctuated by Successive renovation schemes have come up against crushing problems. In 1997, during a brief
trip (SGO, Empesco and Autoviao Fialho y gnarly baobab trees is home to elephants, water break in Angolas ongoing domestic war, Italian company Tor di Valle secured an agreement to
Filhos), and the journey (approximately nine buffalo, indigenous palanca antelopes and a rebuild the Benguela railway. Short on hard cash, the Angolan government offered to pay them
hours) costs US$25 to US$28. precarious population of nesting sea turtles. with thousands of acres of eucalyptus forest planted commercially during the 1920s to provide
Despite years of poaching and neglect during a unique form of fuel for Angolas steam engines. But the deal thanks to a re-eruption of the

COASTAL ANGOLA the civil war, Kissama remains at the forefront

of Angolas wildlife regeneration efforts thanks
largely to a pioneering relief project known as
war the following year never materialised.
Fast forward to 2006, and with peace once again a lasting possibility, the negotiations clawed
their way back to the table. The Chinese were the successful bidders fighting their way through
Travelling outside the capital in cars or on Operation Noahs Ark (see above). an obstacle course of disincentives minefields, blown-up bridges and collapsed ravines to name
buses is increasingly popular, and the overall Visitors to Kissama can stay in bungalows three that stand in the way of making this dream a reality. For Angolan observers the price is
security situation has improved immeasurably (s/d US$90/120), though bookings must be made high, but with 30 months of scheduled man hours and an investment of over US$300 million, its
since lasting peace broke out in April 2002. in advance in Luanda through Kurika Safari only a matter of time before the railway is restored once again to its former glory.
The best road link is between Luanda and Park (%222-43 20 20; Rua Cnego Manual das Neves).
 834 S O U T H E R N A N G O L A H u a m b o lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com A N G O L A D I R E C T O R Y A c c o m m o d a t i o n 835

For Benguelas most colourful and authen- Vicente Ferreira as the countrys capital-in- LUBANGO Lubangos coolest and most popular day-
tic day trip, take the train to Lobito (US$2.50, waiting. But then came the war and, in 1993, %2612 / pop 200,000 time hang-out is the funky Hula Caf (%24
1 hours, 30km, four daily) from the central a gruesome 52-day siege reduced the city to Cool and picturesque, Lubango defies popu- 582; Rua Irmo Roby), which does delicious burgers
station. Transport is in shabby cattle trucks, little more than a pile of pock-marked rubble. lar images of Angolas war-ravaged past and and top-notch galos. Equally hip is Mania Bar
but the journey is like something out of an Rising from the ashes, modern-day Huambo impoverished present. Relatively unscathed by (%22 765; Rua Hoji ya Henda, 20), which boasts an
Indiana Jones movie. is taking its first tentative steps on the road the 40-year conflict that tore the heart of com- internet caf upstairs and a couple of billiard
Benguela has a wide selection of hostels and to recovery. munities elsewhere, the order and tranquillity tables out the back.
hotels and the list is growing. While true sights are few and far between, of Lubangos central core has more in com- There are daily flights from Lubango to Lu-
At Nancys English School e Hospedera (%923 594 Huambos latent beauty can be glimpsed mon with Namibia than Huambo or Kuito. anda and regular connections to Huambo and
093; Largo de Pioneiros, 16; r incl breakfast US$45; ap), briefly in among the scores of bullet-strafed Youll encounter a handful of adventurous Benguela. TAAG (see p836) fly twice a week
budget travellers will enjoy the facilities and buildings that make up the Cidade Alta overlanders here, some quirky cafs and a between Lubango and Windhoek, Namibia.
atmosphere at this secluded gem. Run by a (Upper City) and the Cidade Baixa (Lower half-dozen or so comfortable, if overpriced, The road between Lubango and the town of
friendly American expat. City). Take some time to check out Parque hotels. Namibe is one of the best in the country and
The good-value Hotel Luso (%31 292; Av Aires de Almirante Amrico Toms, known locally as the Surrounded by mountains and nestled in intermittent buses (two hours) ply this route.
Almeida Santos; s/d US$60/120; a) has a quiet ambi- estufa, with its eucalyptus trees and forlorn a cool central valley, one of the best ways to
ence and two different room options.
A hotel that doubles as one of Benguelas
best eating joints, Penso Contente (%336 37; Rua
classical sculptures.
Gleaming and almost incongruous amid
the ruins is the colonial Palcio do Governo,
get a birds-eye view of Lubango is to rent a
car and driver (US$15 per hour) from the
Grande Hotel da Hula and motor up to the
ANGOLA DIRECTORY
Bernardino Correia, 81; s/d US$66/99; a) serves burg- a pink Portuguese-inspired palace, while Cristo Rei, a huge statue of Jesus (redolent ACCOMMODATION
ers, prawns and excellent desserts. 3km outside of town, the Granja Por do Sol of Rios Corcavado) that overlooks the city. Tourist accommodation has traditionally been
At Hotel Mombaka (%34 487; Rua do Mercado; s/d is a pleasantly landscaped tourist complex Other day or half-day excursions include scant in Angola, but the situation is changing
US$120/140; ap), top of the Benguela accom- with caged birds, a boating lake and a rustic the Tunda-Vala volcanic fissure, 20km outside and since 2002 a number of new hotels have
modation pile, the leather and wood-pan- restaurant. town, where you can climb to 2600m above opened in the major cities. Rooms, however,
elled furnishings hide slightly dustier rooms Huambo has some surprisingly good ac- sea level for stellar views, and the famous are not cheap. Expect to pay upwards of US$40
upstairs. commodation options. Leba Mountain Rd on the way to Namibe that for the most basic (bathroomless) room in the
Other eating options include Pastelaria Huambos cheapest penso, Penso Huambo drops 1000m via a succession of precipitous countryside and at least US$80 in the cities.
Flamingo (%30 153; Rua Antnio J Almeida), with (%20 747; Cidade Alta; s/d US$35/45), is a basic bed- switchbacks.
galos (white coffee) and pastries, or more down just off the roundabout near the Palcio An excellent and viable side trip from Lu- BUSINESS HOURS
substantial seafood (a Benguela speciality) at do Governo. bango is to the fishing town of Namibe on the Most businesses are open 8.30am to 12.30pm
Restaurante Escondidinho (%33 206; Rua Cndido dos A block or so from Hotel Nino, Tchinos- Atlantic coast. Aside from boasting a number and 2pm to 6pm Monday to Friday, and
Reis, 7-9), which also metamorphoses into the sanda House (%23 422; Cidade Baixa; s/d US$38/76) of decent sights and attractions in its own 8.30am to 12.30pm Saturday.
citys most happening nightspot/disco. has adequate rooms and a patio restaurant right, Namibe also provides easy access to
Benguela is easily accessed by a daily plane at the back. Flamingo Lodge, a choice fishing and angling DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
service from Luanda (US$90 to US$120). One of only two well-maintained hotels spot 70km south of the town profession- Contrary to popular belief, travelling in An-
The city has two airports, one 3km south of in Huambo, Hotel Konjevi (%20 737; Rua Serpa dos ally run by Angolan Adventure Safaris (%88- gola is far safer than outsiders might first
the city centre and the other in Catumbela Santos, Cidade Baixa; s/d US$64/70; a) has clean, no- 163 151 9324; www.aasafaris.com). Prebooking is imagine as long as you abide by a few basic
15km to the north. Regular planes also link frills rooms and eager-to-please staff. recommended. ground rules. Luandas street-crime aside,
ANGOLA

ANGOLA
Benguela with Lubango, Huambo and other The Hotel Nino (%22 780; Rua 5 de Outubro, Cidade Lubango has a selection of relatively com- your biggest danger is probably health, with
major cities. Baixa; s/d US$70/100; a) is a cosy and comfort- fortable hotels and restaurants. malaria a particular worry in the coastal areas.
There are three companies offering a daily able option and a shade more spiffy than the Lubangos cheapest penso, Penso Diocema Consult your doctor before you leave and
bus service (see p832) between Benguela and Konjevi. (%21 788; Rua Deolinda Rodrguez, 98A; r US$50), is dont cut corners when it comes to medica-
Luanda (690km, nine hours). A daily train The citys most inviting caf-restaurant is scruffy, but friendly. tion, mosquito nets and other preventative
runs to Lobito (30km) and, less frequently, the Parisian-style Novo Imprio (%23 176; Rua Situated on the edge of town, the burgeon- measures; for more details, see Health (p1134).
to Cubal 150km inland. Dr Lacerda, Cidade Alta), which does great burg- ing tourist park Complexo Turistico Nuestra Seora Crime against foreigners is low outside the
ers, pizza, pastries and coffee. A few blocks do Monte (%20 183) is home to the Wenda Ke

SOUTHERN ANGOLA further east is the cheaper and more tradi-

tional Restaurante Pestico GiGi (%20 258; Rua Dr
Lacerda, Cidade Alta), which has a daily set menu
Tai Lodge (s/d US$74/130), with 20 thatched units
and an on-site casino, or the more modern
Casper Lodge (s/d US$100/125; ap), whose eight
PRACTICALITIES

Angolas newspapers and magazines
HUAMBO for US$7. spanking-new rooms are kitted out in tasteful include Jornal de Angola.
%2412 / pop 400,000 There are daily flights to Luanda and African dcor.

The national radio station is Radio
Known formerly as Nova Lisboa (New Lis- connections to Benguela and Lubango two At the dusty African gem Grande Hotel da Nacional de Angola.
bon), Huambo was once renowned for its to three times a week. The roads between Hula (%20 512; Av Dr Agostinho Neto; s/d US$106/160;

Electricity in Angola is 220/240 V, 50 Hz.
expansive parks and attractive colonial build- Huambo and Benguela, and Huambo and aps), oodles of faded charm and a swim-
ings. Indeed, in 1928 it was briefly touted by Lubango are open but are in a pretty poor ming pool devoid of water conjure up images
Angola uses the metric system.
former Angolan high commissioner Antnio condition. from a seedy Graham Greene novel.
 836 T R A N S P O R T I N A N G O L A G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com T R A N S P O R T I N A N G O L A G e t t i n g A r o u n d 837

capital and armed banditry in the provinces lars or kwanza. Come prepared with plenty of International flights fly into Aeroporto 4 equally good internal options, including SAL
has diminished considerably since 2002. Fur- hard cash and invest in a decent money belt. de Fevereiro in Luanda. There are also twice Airlines (%222-35 08 69), Sonair (%222-35 09 93), Air
thermore, Angolan police while certainly not Bargaining is possible when buying from weekly flights from Windhoek in Namibia Gemini (%222-35 12 49) and Diexim Expresso (%222-
incorruptible are generally friendlier than markets or on the street. You can generally into Lubango. 44 29 10). Flights between Luanda and major
many of their African counterparts. Neverthe- expect to haggle down to one-half to two- Your best bet for a cheaper deal is with cities run daily and interprovincial flights are
less, ask permission before taking photos in thirds of the initial asking price. Ethiopian Airlines, which flies to Luanda from also possible. Sample prices include: Luanda
public areas, always carry a photocopy of your Europe via its African hub of Addis Ababa Benguela US$110; BenguelaLubango US$85;
passport and dont wander off the road in rural POST & TELEPHONE twice weekly. Deals can be scooped for as little and LubangoHuambo US$80.
areas the threat of unexploded landmines is The postal system is unreliable throughout the as US$800. Try an online booking agent, such
still a huge problem. country. Angola Telecom often requires sev- as Holiday Genie (www.holidaygenie.com). Bus
eral attempts, but works in the main cities. From inside Africa you can fly to Luanda Public transportation is still in the embry-
EMBASSIES & CONSULATES from Brazzaville (Congo), Harare (Zimba- onic stages outside of the cities, though com-
Angola has diplomatic representation in Na- VISAS bwe), Johannesburg (South Africa), Kinshasa pared to other African buses, the vehicles are
mibia, Gabon and South Africa (see the Direc- Tourist visas cost US$75 for 30 days. Visa ap- (Democratic Republic of Congo) and Wind- relatively comfortable. See p832 for further
tory section of the relevant country). plications from embassies abroad are referred hoek (Namibia). There are also twice-weekly information.
The following countries have diplomatic to Luanda, and can take up to two weeks to flights from Windhoek to Lubango.
representation in Luanda: come through. If you are travelling independ- The following international airlines are Car
Canada (%44 94 94; Rua Rei Katyavala, 113) ently, you will require a letter of invitation based in Luanda and fly to/from Angola: Aided by Chinese and Portuguese invest-
Congo (%31 02 93; Rua Fernando Pessoa, Vila Alice) from a person or organisation in Angola. Aeroflot (%222-33 04 26; Av 4 de Fevereiro, 114) ment, roads are slowly opening up in An-
Democratic Republic of Congo (%31 02 93; Rua Air France (%222-33 54 16; Av 4 de Fevereiro,123) gola, though youll still need a 4WD to get
Fernando Pessoa, Vila Alice) Visa Extensions Air Gabon (%222-31 06 14; Largo 4 de Fevereiro, 8) you to most places. Plenty of cars now make
France (%33 4841; Rua Rev Agostinho Pedro Neto, 39) Visas can be renewed for 90 days in Luanda Air Namibia (%222-33 67 26; Rua Assalto Q Moncada, the journey up from Namibia, and roads are
Gabon (%44 92 89; Rua Eng Armindo Adrade, 149) at the Department of Immigration (DEFA), 12) Note that TAAG shares some routes. passable (if rough) between the cities of Lu-
Germany (%33 45 16; Av 4 Fevereiro, 120) adjacent to the British embassy, for US$30. Air Portugal (%222-33 16 92; Av 4 Fevereiro, 80) bango, Huambo, Benguela, Lobito, Luanda
Namibia (%39 54 83; Rua dos Coqueiros, 37) British Airways (%222-30 92 70; Av Murtala Mo- and Malange.
South Africa (%33 41 87; Rua Kwamime Nkrumah) Visas for Onward Travel hamed, La Ilha)
UK (%33 45 82; Rua Diogo Co, 4) Visas for the following countries can be ob- Ethiopian Airlines (%222-31 06 15; Largo 4 de Tours
USA (%44 45 18; Av Houari Boumedienne, 132) tained in Angola. See opposite for embassy Fevereiro,10) At the forefront of Angolas tourist renais-
Zambia (%44 74 92; Rua Rei Katyavala, 106) and consulate information. South African Airways (%222-39 18 58; Rua Clube sance, Charme Tours (%222-39 64 99, 222-39 74
Congo All visitors to Congo need a visa. Visa applications Maritimo Africano, 2-4) 99; www.charmetours.com; Congresso MPLA, 33/35) can
HOLIDAYS can be issued on the same or next day. TAAG (%222-39 25 41; 5th fl, Rua Misso,123) organise anything from flight bookings to
As well as religious holidays listed in the Af- Democratic Republic of Congo All visitors need a visa. specially tailored tours. Ecotur (%923 501 387;
rica Directory (p1106), these are the principal It is essential to get a visa before you arrive; a one-month, Land www.eco-tur.com) is an equally professional out-
public holidays in Angola: single-entry visa costs US$75. According to the Angolan tourist ministry, all fit, co-run by a British expat, that specialises
New Years Day 1 January Gabon Visas cost US$100 for 30 days and applications can of the countrys land borders are now open, in adventure trips, such as big game fishing,
National Holiday 4 February be lodged from 8.30am to 12.30pm Monday to Friday (air though savvy travellers should think twice water sports and bird-watching. Angolan Ad-
Victory Day 27 March ticket and one photo required). before negotiating the roads and bureaucracy venture Safaris (%163 157 4328, 27 021 462 6104; www
ANGOLA

ANGOLA
Workers Day 1 May Namibia Visas cost US$50 for 30 days and applications between AngolaZambia and AngolaDRC. .aasafaris.com), which runs the Tarpon Lodge on
Armed Forces Day 1 August can be lodged from 8am to 2.30pm on Friday (two days The border with Namibia, on the other hand, the Kwanza River and the Flamingo Lodge
National Heros Day 17 September processing time required). is a relative formality. At the time of writ- south of Namibe, can also organise visas and
Independence Day 11 November Zambia Visas cost US$100 for 30 days and applications ing you could enter at either Santa Clara put together tailored trips.
MPLA Foundation Day 10 December can be lodged from 9am to noon and 2pm to 4pm Monday (Angola) from Oshikango (Namibia) or at
to Friday (ready same day; two photos and a copy of air Calai (Angola) from Rundu (Namibia), visa Train
MONEY ticket required). permitting. A one-time pioneer of 20th-century rail
Angolas currency is the kwanza (Kz). It is not transport, Angolas war-damaged railways
convertible and cannot be taken out of the
country. As with many third-world econo-
mies, the US dollar is also widely accepted.
TRANSPORT IN ANGOLA GETTING AROUND
Air
Air travel is relatively easy within Angola and
are currently getting a long-awaited Chinese
makeover. Limited services are now available
between Luanda and Dondo (twice weekly);
You can exchange money in banks, at GETTING THERE & AWAY flights can often be booked the same day. The Lobito and Cubal via Benguela (four daily);
hotels or on the street, where the rates are Air national carrier is TAAG (%222-35 25 86; 5th fl, Rua Lubango and Namibe (once weekly); and
sometimes marginally better. Direct flights from Europe are possible from da Misso, 123, Luanda), but there are a number of Huambo and Calenga (four daily).
Angola is a cash economy and local ATMs Paris (Air France), London (British Airways),
rarely accept foreign bank cards. Credit cards Brussels (SN Brussels Airlines) and Lisbon
are accepted by major hotels and airline compa- (TAP), with prices starting at around US$1800
nies, but the bulk of business is done in US dol- return.
 Lonely Planet Publications
ANGOLA 838 www.lonelyplanet.com

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