Field Tomato

Production & Spray Guides

 Field Tomato Production Guide
Integrated Crop Solution

General
Field Tomatoes are a very important crop in the country sold mainly as fresh tomatoes, used in
salads or used as an ingredient in Soups, Stews, Sauces and various other dishes. Some
production is grown and sold for processing or pulping under contract. There are a number of
varieties available for specific markets or uses so contact a Prime Seed Agronomist for the best
cultivar for the purpose intended for example, Fresh Market Tomato or Jam or Processing
Type. Tomatoes are a warm season mainly summer crop but can be grown in certain low veldt
areas in winter that are frost free. A few degrees above freezing will result in damage to both
plant and fruits. Optimum temperature range is between 20 C to 28 C. Temperatures below
12 C or above 35 C can result in flower shed and big losses of yield. Continuous moist or
rainy weather favours the rapid increase in leaf diseases and makes control difficult. For best
results the crop should be finishing around the end of December or early January though
however at this time and mid-winter prices are highest as there is always a shortage.
No other crop is subjected to such a variety of diseases and control of these diseases is
paramount during the whole growing period to achieve good yields.

Determinate type varieties are normally shorter plants than indeterminate varieties which can
result in big savings on trellising and spraying costs. They also normally produce a
concentrated yield over a shorter space of time, however could be a disadvantage if it comes
in during a price drop so plan carefully. The final size of the plants is dependent on climatical
and cultural conditions as well as the specific cultivar selected. Processing cultivars possess
high solid content required for such use. Their keeping quality is normally better than normal
field tomato types.

Soils
Tomatoes like growing in deep, fertile, humus rich, good draining soils. Soil types can vary from
sandy loam to clay loam with a clay content of between 15% to 35%. Sandy soils can also be
used provided soil moisture content can be maintained at the desired level. The roots can
penetrate to a depth of over 2 metres but the greatest root concentration is in the top 600mm
of soil. Deep ploughing or sub soiling must be done to ensure any old plough pan is broken up,
so roots are free to go down deep. A PH of 5.0 5.8 is ideal. Tomatoes must also be grown in a
rotation of one crop every three or four years to reduce nematodes and disease problems.
Tomatoes will do very well after a green manure crop which has been ploughed in and
well-rotted down.
Fertilizer
Depending on soil analysis results the following is a general guide.
Basal :-
750kg per hectare up to 1,000kg per hectare of Compound C or B
Top Dressings.:-
One week after transplanting 25kg/hect Mono Ammonium Phosphate ( M.A.P.)
Second week after transplanting 50kg/hect AN
Third week after transplanting 50kg/hect AN
Fourth week onwards 50kg/hect AN plus 50kg/hect Sulphate of Potash ( S.O.P.)
Stop all fertilization two weeks prior to final harvest.
Micro nutrients are also necessary to obtain top yields. These are Calcium ( Ca),
Magnesium ( Mg), Sulphur (S), Boron (B), Iron (Fe), Copper (Cu), Zinc ( Zn),
Manganese ( Mn) and Molybdenum ( Mo). These can be obtained in micro nutrient mixes like
Nutrifoil, Liberal, BMX, Omniboost etc. These should be applied every two weeks or as per the
instructions on the label.
Calcium is very important to the crop as a shortage of Calcium will result in Blossom End Rot.
This can be sprayed on using Calcium Nitrate from first flower on a weekly basis at a rate of
10g/ 1lt of water using 250l to 300l water per hectare.

Irrigation
Best results have been achieved using drip irrigation as water can be applied as often as
required when using tensiometers in the soil which measures the soil moisture content. Also no
foliage gets wet thus minimising leaf diseases. Overhead sprinkler irrigation can be used where
there is no rainfall in the dryer months up to the fruiting stage. Sprinkler irrigation can
dramatically increase the incidents of various diseases in medium rainfall or misty areas. Any
method of irrigation which does not wet the foliage is the preferred method. Furrow irrigation or
flood irrigation is also good but uses high volumes of water. Amounts of irrigation needed
depends on soil type and growing conditions like temperature and humidity. Normally around
400mm to 600mm is required. The use of tensiometers and an evaporation pan as tools will
help.
Lateral roots can spread up to one metre or more so soil moisture needs to increase with plant
growth. During the first month when the plants are relatively small and the roots may not have
spread this far so keep the water applied to the planting area. After one month increase
irrigation as the plant and its root system start to develop.

Planting
Propagated speedlings are the preferred method of establishing the crop. Good, strong,
healthy well rooted seedlings will give the best results so get speedlings done professionally in
a Nursery like Prime Plants Nursery. Plant speedlings into moist soil and firm the soil around
the plug to achieve good soil to plug contact so roots can develop quickly into the fertilizer
enriched soil. Irrigate as soon as possible after transplanting to settle in the seedling.
Spacing
Rows generally 1.2m- 1.8m apart
In row spacing can vary between 40cm 50cm apart
Population can be from 16,000 22,000 plants per hectare.

Trellising
For table tomatoes plants are invariably trellised. This is because the incidents of various
diseases, pests and sun burn is generally lower than crops that are not trellised. Trellised crops
have shown a significant advantage in higher marketable yield, better quality and makes
harvesting easier. The newer Processing cultivars are now generally shorter vined, have a more
concentrated harvest and have fruits with thicker and tougher skins, which dont damage
easily, are therefore seldom trellised.
Poles of between 50mm 70mm in diameter are dug in to a depth of +/- 600mm and spaced
every 3m apart leaving 1.4m 1.8m above ground. The end poles should be stronger and well
anchored to prevent them being pulled over by the weight of the crop. Wires are put in early to
avoid damage to the small plants while they are getting established. Two wires of between
14gg 16gg are pulled and attached to either side of the poles so the crop is between the
wires. Wires can be placed up the poles at intervals of 300mm 400mm. The number of pairs
of wires will depend on the growth, height and vigour of the cultivar being grown. All plant
growth is trained to grow between the two wires.
Some growers do a single stake method where a stake is driven in next to the plant and as it
grows up the plant is tied at intervals to the stake.

Pruning
This is not recommended for outdoor growing of tomatoes. It is labour intensive and often
increases the incidents of disease like Botrytis, Pseudomonas and Phytophtora which enter the
scar wounds. The incidences of virus diseases and other disorders is also possible

Harvesting
Avoid picking green fruits as these will ripen with poor quality and affect the marketing of the
crop. Fruits should be harvested when a pink colour first shows at the blossom end. At this
stage the tomato is mature and already red inside. Indicators are as follows:-

a) Pick when cream coloured streaks are noticed at the blossom end. At this stage fruits
will last about a week after picking.
b) If the colour is dark pink going red at the blossom end it will have a shelf life of about 4
days.
c) When the tomato is pink it is 1 or 2 days to full ripe.
d) Full ripe nice red colour but still firm, need to sell immediately.
Reap into boxes that hold +/- 5.5kgs. Ripe tomatoes can be stored for about 7 days at 5 C
10 C with a RH of 80% - 85%. Tomatoes are sensitive to chilling. Temperature management is
crucial to maintaining quality. Fruits must be graded to uniform size and maturity in the packing
box. Mixing sizes and maturity can result in rejection or price drop at the market place. Fruits
need to be free from any blemishes e.g. insect, disease or mechanical damage. Remove all
diseased and damaged fruits from the plant as soon as they are seen. Remove them totally
from the field, do not discard in the field on the ground near the plants. To help with picking
use shorter rows or provide pathways to get across long fields to the waiting truck or trailer.
Reduce unnecessary walking to speed up harvesting. Provide pickup facilities at both ends of
the field.
 Field Tomato Spray Guide

Stage Nursery Transplanting Vegetative First Flowers First Fruits Fruiting

Days: 0-35 28-36 30-60 60-65 65-70 70-125

Pest Problems

Nematodes Solvigo

Soil Pests & Aphids Actara Soil Drench / Solvigo

Cutworms Karate Zeon / Ampligo

Leafminer
Trigard / Dynamec

Red Spider Mites

Dynamec / Polo / Curacron

Fruitworm & Caterpillars

Ampligo / Matish / Karate Zeon / Proclaim

Aphids & Whitefly

Actara Soil Drench Actara / Ampligo / Polo

Disease Problems
Damping off Apron Star

Bacterial Complex Bion / Copper Oxychloride

Early Blight Copper Oxychloride / Bravo / Amistar Top

Late Blight Folio Gold / Revus / Ridomil Gold

Leaf spots; Powdery Amistar Top

Mildew
Virus Complex Actara Soil Drench / Dip

Weed Problems Below are off-labe suggestions; grower must do own tests for crop damage.
Before planting - post Touchdown
emergence perennials
Before planting - post Gramoxone / Touchdown
emergence annuals
Pre-emergence: grasses Dual Magnum

Post-emergence: grasses Fusllade Forte

Post-emergence: grasses Codal Gold

& broadleaf
Post-emergence: grasses Codal Gold
& broadleaf