10.

SCARVES

The popularity of scarves, shawls and stoles like other accessories, is cyclical. Design
is usually bared on historic textiles, fine art, and ornate architecture, as well as apparel trends.
A collection includes groupings based on motifs, fabrications, colour ways, and scarf shaper.
Scarf manufacturers may either buy a print design from a design studio or have their own in-
house artist.

A scarf, also known as a Kremer, muffler or neck-wrap, is a piece of fabric worn

around the neck, or near the head or around the waist for warmth, cleanliness, fashion or
religious reasons. They can come in a variety of different colours.

History
Ancient Rome is one of the many origins of the scarf, where the garment was used to
keep clean rather than warm. It was called the sudarium, which translates from Latin to
English as "sweat cloth", and was used to wipe the sweat from the neck and face in hot
weather. They were originally worn by men around their neck or tied to their belt. Soon
women started using the scarves, which were made of cloth and not made of wool, pashmina,
or silk, and ever since the scarf has been fashionable among women.

Historians believe that the Chinese, scarves made of cloth were used to identify
officers or the rank of Chinese warriors.

In later times scarves were also worn by soldiers of all ranks in Croatia around the
17th century. The only difference in the soldiers' scarves that designated a difference in rank
was that the officers had silk scarves whilst the other ranks were issued with cotton scarves.
The men's scarves were sometimes referred to as "cravats" (from the French cravate,
meaning "Croat"), and were the precursor of the necktie.

The scarf became a real fashion accessory by the early 19th century for both men and
women. By the middle of the 20th century scarves became one of the most essential and
versatile clothing accessories for both men and women. Celebrities have often led fashion
trends with film props subsequently becoming mainstream fashion items. Celebrity
endorsement have not only made scarves and shoes worn by film actors and actresses more
accessible but provide the buying public with the opportunity of wearing celebrity-first
accessories.

Production: The production of scarf fabrics, particularly silk, rayon or polyester is the same
as other woven textiles. The difference is in the printing and finishing. A small percentage of
scarves, those made of the finest fabrics are made in Italy or France. Most of the printing is
done by silk screen, which lends itself to the square or rectangular shape of the print. Hermes,
which makes the finest scarves, uses on average of 24 color screens and up to 50 screens for
their highest quality! Less expensive scarves use only 4 to 10 color combinations. The printed
fabric is cut and then hand rolled, machine rolled, flat hemmed or fringed.
Most scarf production is located in Asia, where expertise as well as inexpensive
labour can be found. Many American manufacturers buy their fabrics in Japan, Korea or
China and have the scarves printed there as well solid or textured scarves are cut and sewn
from available fabrics from textile companies. Micro fiber polyester and rayon are currently
popular, especially in novelty textures such as chiffon with a velvet pattern woven in it.

Designers such as Ralph Lauren and Donna Karan also have scarves made for them.
Collection XIIX manufacturers Anne Klein and Ellen Tracy scarves as well as their own
brand Accessory street makes scarves for Jones New York and Adrienre vittadini to
coordinate with their apparel collections. Other moderate resources include collection XIIX,
Echo and Liz Claiborne.

The three market seasons are spring/summer, shown to buyers in November and
January, fall shown in March and holiday shown in May and August. The high price of silk
and the cost of labor has made the scarf business very competitive. Retailers have to order
early to get on time deliveries because of the long lead time involved in overseas production.
Some retailers act as manufacturers. Scarf manufacturers have developed videos and
brochures on how to wear scarves to help the customer and promote sales.

Scarves and clients: Scarves come in many sizes, shapes and fabrics, each appropriate for a
different application. Designers scarves are colored in exotic prints in the colour which
conform with the season. They are blend well with the fashion colours used for apparel.
Advice your clients as a designer on various tops on wearing the scarves in different
styles and designs check the sizes and shapes, do a few preliminary trails before
purchasing.
They need not always be on silk for instance, cotton scarves have a wonderful look for
spring and summer. A summer shawl to cover up a summer dress fit a casual evening.
Always remember to balance the scale and intercity of their accessory to your body type
and the outfit you are designing.
Either adopt them or create a personal style for your client.
Use a contrasting colour to highlight your face by draping the scarf around the neck.
Scarves can neutralize harsh clothing by adding a spot of your most fluttering colour at
the neckline.
To emphasize the flattering V lines of the opening use a contrasting scarf at the neckline
of an open blouse.
A long scarf will make a fine belt on a scarf bare top.
To hide your hair whom it is less presentable wrap your head in a scarf
In winter, drape a large wool or silk scarf over the shoulder of a jacket for added
warmth and style
A lace handkerchief tucked into the pocket of a tailored suit gives a soothing effect
When a long narrow scarf knotted it provide vertical lines to enhance and slim the
figure.
Use the scarf as a head band when jogging or for other active sports
Practice before wearing it to perfect your techniques
Make sure the scarf is pressed each time you wear it.
Wash it in mild soap if it gets soiled.
Uses and types
Stole used by bishops of the Church as the symbol of their priesthood.
In cold climates, a thick scarf, often made of wool, is tied around the neck to keep
warm.
In drier, dustier warm climates, scarf is often worn over the eyes and nose and mouth
to keep the hair clean.
Religions such as Judaism under Jewish Law promote modest dress code among
women. Married Jewish women wear Tichel to cover their hair. The Tallit is
commonly worn by Jewish men especially for prayers, which they wrap around their
head to recite the blessing.
Young Sikh boys, and sometimes girls often wear a bandanna to cover their hair,
before moving on to the turban. Older Sikhs may wear them as an under-turban.
Many Muslim women wear a headscarf, often known as a Hijab. The Keffiyeh is
commonly used by Muslim men.
Silk scarfs were used by pilots of early aircraft in order to keep oily smoke from the
exhaust out of their mouths while flying. Today, military flight crews wear scarfs
imprinted with unit insignia and emblems not for functional reasons but instead for
esprit-de-corps and heritage.
In India, Bandhani scarf used commonly in Bhuj and Mandvi of the Kutch District of
Gujarat State.
Scarfs can be tied in many ways including the pussy-cat bow, the square knot, the
cowboy bib, the ascot knot, the loop, the necktie, and the gypsy kerchief.
Four Scout scarves, academic scarves with distinctive striped colours combinations
are used for identifying the individual university or college or scout groups

Differences between a scarf, shawl, wrap and stole:

Shawl: refers to a larger item, usually rectangular, but sometimes triangular or square in
shape that can be wrapped around the body. Shawls are worn by men and women. They add
a lovely finishing touch to an outfit and can be worn for warmth or can be purely decorative
or both. Shawls are used to accent an outfit, to keep the chill out, for prayer and to cover bare
shoulders in formal attire; in short, a highly versatile addition to anyone's wardrobe.

Mobius Shawl: A Mobius shawl is crafted in a circle or loop so that theres no beginning or
end to it and has a twist in the fabric based on the mathematical discovery by Mbius and
Listing of being non-orientable. It may be long or short, narrow or wide. It is usually worn
over the shoulders. It is usually worn by women.

Stole: is very similar to a shawl. The term probably derives from the ancient Roman stola,
which is the woman's version of the men's toga. The term stole today is usually used to
describe a formal wrap, basically a shawl made of an elegant fabric, often not as wide as a
shawl, but long enough to drape around the body. The word stole is also used to describe a
wide decorative sash that is draped over the shoulders as in a graduation stole or a liturgical
stole. This brings up the modern term wrap which nowadays is used for both shawls and
stoles.
Scarf: Scarves can be thin and long: think of a typical winter wool scarf or they can be
square: think of a classic silk scarf. In other words, the term is usually used to describe a
fabric item that can be wrapped or tied around your neck for warmth and or style. Scarves can
be casual or formal and everywhere in-between.

Infinity Scarf: An infinity scarf is a scarf crafted in a circle or loop so that theres no
beginning or end to it. It may be narrow or wide, fine or thick.

Small Square Scarves: are called bandanas, neck scarves or neckerchiefs and are made of a
light material, usually silk, but also cotton and linen. Small squares can be worn so many
ways: try one tied around your neck, your head, your purse handle, a ponytail or your belt
loop for a fun dash of color.

Foulards: are the classic women's fashion scarf, 90cm (35-36) and are usually made of silk.
It's a versatile size that can be worn as a head scarf, or around the neck or waist. This size has
made a wonderful return in popularity.

Oversized Square Scarves: which are 120cm-140cm (47 -55) or sometimes even larger
that can be worn as a head scarf, wrapped around the shoulders as a shawl or worn around the
hips. This size is becoming quite popular for men as well, wrapped around the neck in loose
folds.

Shoulderette: A shoulderette is kind of a cross between a sweater and a shawl. Its probably
a precursor to the modern bolero jacket. Modern shoulderettes may not have sleeves or an
open front, instead being crafted in one circular piece.

Cowl: Cowl is either a hooded cloak worn by a monk, the hood of such a cloak, or a draped
neckline on a womans garment. However, a handmade cowl today tends to be a separately-
crafted item not attached to your top. It is similar to a disconnected cowl on a womans
garment, or a larger-than-normal disconnected neck of a turtleneck.

How to wear a scarf

Now, if youre interested in wearing a scarf for fashion purposes, here are some tips in
properly wearing them and some tips on how to tie them around your neck in a fashionable
way:
To choose a scarf with animal print, make sure the rest of outfit is as plain as it can
get. This is the same with floral, plaid, or geometrical/graphic designed scarves.
For plain colored scarves, it would be easier to mix and match it with any outfit or
printed/patterned clothes. If scarf is dark, wear something lighter, and vice versa.
To use a shawl and wrap it around neck, make sure its end dont hang lose below the
coat.
A shawl is made to be draped around both shoulders, not just one; one would look
like bringing a bath towel around.