ringed by a tunnelled cloister and a white- 8 Getting There & Away

242 washed stone wall studded with stupas. Until the Darcha-Padum-Chiling road is com-
pleted, years hence, public transport to Zanskar
PADUM remains very limited.
% 01983 / POP 1500 / ELEV 3505M
BUS The unpredictable Padum-Kargil-Leh bus
After the rigours and beauty of getting here, takes around 18 hours to Kargil (300). It only
Zanskars dusty little capital is rather an anti- runs a few times weekly (keep asking!).
climax. Despite an impressive mountain back-
JEEP Jeep hire to Kargil from Padum costs
drop, central Padum is essentially a character- 8000 (while Kargil to Padum is 10,000 taxi-
less crossroads within a block of which youll union rules dont allow return trips) per vehicle,
nd the bus/share-taxi stand, phone oces, whether done in one gruelling 14-hour drive or
an internet cafe, a Tourist Office (%245017; with an overnight stop en route. Other one-way/
h10am-4pm Mon-Sat) and most of Padums return rates from Padum: Karsha 600/750;
dozen hotel-guesthouses. The main road then Zangla 2000/3000, Rangdum 4000/6000.
straggles 700m south past a sizeable 1991
mosque to the crumbling little old town and AROUND PADUM
a hillock of stupas and water-eroded boulders. Zanskars largest Buddhist monastery, Kar-
More traditional Pibiting village, 2km north, sha Gompa dates back to at least the 10th
has a small gompa dwarfed by a large hilltop century. Its a jumble of whitewashed blocks
stupa topped with a beacon lamp. rising almost vertically up the red rock of a
mountain cli across the valley from Padum.
2 Activities Concrete steps lead to the monasterys up-
JAMMU & K ASHMIR (INCLUDING L ADAKH) K A R G I L & Z A N S K A R

Zanskars top activity is trekking in or out. per cloister and prayer hall with its cracked
Guides, tents and provisions are essential old murals and wobbly wooden columns.
for such multiday routes on which high- Its a great vantage point from which to sur-
lights include the isolated monasteries at vey Karshas old-fashioned homes, barley
Lingshet or Phuktal. To nd horsemen (per elds and threshing circles worked by dzo
horse per day from 400) as guides/porters, ask (cow-yak half-breed). Three homestay-style
at the simple camping ground opposite the guesthouses all come with shared local
Tourist Oce or agencies like Zanskar Trek toilets. One daily bus (15) leaves Padum at
(%245136) along the road to the mosque. To 4pm, returning from Karsha next morning
avoid hiking within the stark, sun-blasted at 8am. Walking from Padum takes around
Padum Valley you could give the horses two two hours across the exposed plain.
days head start, then drive to Hanumil/ For a ne half-day excursion from Padum,
Itchar, trailheads for Honupatta/Darcha. drive to Zangla admiring the curled, contort-
ed geological strata that are especially strik-
4 Sleeping & Eating ing above Rinam and Shilingskit villages. A
Most hotels close from late October to June, trip highlight is Stongde Gompa crowning a
except when pre-booked for winter trekking birds-eye perch some 300m above the valley,
groups. Theres a simple camping ground 12km from Padum. The entrance to Zangla
opposite the Tourist Oce, which has an ac- is guarded by a small hilltop fortress-
ceptable Tourist Bungalow (d 200). palace ruin. See http://.csomasroom.kibu.
hu for details about volunteering to help save
Hotel Ibex GUESTHOUSE $
it. At the far end of the village theres a small,
(%245214; d 700) Room standards vary, but friendly Buddhist nunnery.
theres a pleasant setting around a sheltered The road south from Padum passes
garden courtyard and a convivial restaurant. Bardan Gompa, spectacularly sat on a rocky
Similarly priced Kailash and Changthang outcrop above the valley. Appealing little
Hotels nearby look outwardly smarter but Raru village has two tiny eateries and a very
lack the traveller vibe. basic homestay. The road ends near the rock-
Mont-Blanc Guest House HOMESTAY $
perched village of Itchar (aka Khor) whose
homestay is in the highest house, beside a
(%245183; r 400, without bathroom 250)
tiny gompa, with great views.
Friendly place with four traditionally fur-
nished rooms and possibly a free glass or PHUKTAL & BEYOND
three of chhang (barley beer). Partly damaged by heavy snows in 2010,
Gakyi Hotel RESTAURANT $ Phuktal Gompa remains one of Zanskars
(s/d from 700/900) Good-looking, well- most photogenic monasteries, built up
furnished if slightly musty rooms beneath against a cli face beneath a gaping cave en-
Padums glitziest restaurant. trance. It contains a sacred spring and some
700-year-old murals in the Alchi style. The terms of ecological awareness. While most
monastery guesthouse, a fair distance be- Ladakhis are cash poor, traditional mud- 243
neath the gompa, has ve rooms with real brick homesteads are large, comfortable
beds and even a shower. and self-sucient in fuel and dairy prod-
Theres no road trekking to Phuktal (pos- ucts, organic vegetables and barley used
sible in one long day, better in two) is easiest to make tsampa (roast barley our) and
using the south-bank trail. There are bridges chhang. Such self-suciency is an incredible
at Dorzong and Purne, both with homestay/ achievement given the short growing season
guesthouse, though space is limited. and very limited arable land in this upland
Rather than returning to Padum, many desert, where precious water supplies must
trekking groups continue to Darcha on the be laboriously channelled from glacier-melt
Manali road (around four days) but youll mountain streams.
need proper gear and a guide to cross the
History
4980m Shingo-La.
Ladakhs (now-deposed) royal family traces
its dynasty back 39 generations to 975AD.
They took the name Namgyal (Victorious)
LADAKH in 1470 when their progenitor Lhachen
Spectacularly jagged, arid mountains enfold Bhagan, ruling from Basgo, conquered a
this magical, Buddhist ex-kingdom. Picture- competing Ladakhi kingdom based at Leh/
perfect gompas dramatically crown rocky Shey. Although Ladakh had been culturally

L ADAKH&8 K ASHMIR (INCLUDING L ADAKH) L8 A DA K H

JAMMU
outcrops amid whitewashed stupas and Tibetanised in the 9th century, Buddhism
meditational mani walls topped with man- originally arrived in an Indian form thats
tra-inscribed pebbles. Colourful uttering visible in ancient temple craftsmanship at
prayer ags spread their spiritual messages Alchi. Over time, however, dierent Bud-
metaphorically with the mountain breeze. dhist sects struggled for prominence, with
Prayer wheels spun clockwise release more the Tibetan Gelukpa order eventually be-
merit-making mantras. Gompa interiors are coming the majority philosophy after its
colourfully awash with murals and statuary introduction in the 14th century by Tibetan
of numerous bodhisattvas. pilgrim Tsongkhapa (who left a curious relic
Ladakhs remarkably well-balanced tradi- at Spituk).
tional society has much to teach the West in Ladakhs greatest king, Sengge Namgyal
(r 161642) gained riches by plundering gold

REACHING LADAKH
There are only three route options and all suer a signicant degree of uncertainty, so al-
ways build several days exibility into your plans. Visit websites www.leh.nic.in or http://
vistet.wordpress.com to check which seasonal roads are open.
Zanskar is essentially cut o altogether in winter except by ice-trek.

Air
Flights (year-round) are dramatically scenic, but can be cancelled at short notice. Al-
though ying into Leh means youre likely to suer mild altitude problems on arrival, the
DelhiManaliLeh drive is arguably worse as youll cross passes over 5000m. Flying is
the only way to reach Ladakh once roads close in winter.

ManaliLeh Road
Fabulously beautiful but gruellingly rough (minimum 22 hours), the road is frequently
subject to landslides and is generally closed from October to May. Travelling southbound
reduces the risk of altitude problems on high passes and has other advantages (see p274).

SrinagarLeh Road
This route is less physically painful and lower altitude but also less spectacular than Leh
Manali. Landslides are possible on the Zoji La, which gets dangerously slippery after rain.
Transport can stop altogether during serious political disturbances in Kashmir and the
road is generally closed from November to May.
 reserves from western Tibet and re-estab-
244 lished a capital at Leh. Ladakh remained an Leh
independent kingdom until the 1840s when % 01982 / POP 28,640 / ELEV 3520M
the Namgyals lost power and the region was Few places in India are at once so traveller-
annexed by the Jammu maharajas. friendly and yet so enchanting and hassle-free
Since Independence Ladakh has been as mountain-framed Leh. Dotted with stupas
ruled as a (now semi-autonomous) sub- and crumbling mud-brick houses, the Old
district of J&K. Thats a culturally odd situa- Town is dominated by a dagger of steep rocky
tion for this little Tibet which is one of the ridge topped by an imposing Tibetan-style
last undisturbed Tantric Buddhist societies palace and fort. Beneath, the bustling bazaar
on earth. Tourism was rst permitted in area is draped in a thick veneer of tour agen-
1974 but, while globalised economics and cies, souvenir shops and pizza restaurants
climate change have certainly caused many but a web of lanes quickly fans out into a
problems, including dangerous population green suburban patchwork of irrigated barley
shifts, the traditional lifestyle has proved elds. Here gushing streams and narrow foot-
unexpectedly robust, while locally relevant paths link traditionally styled Ladakhi build-
technologies, such as solar energy and ings with at roofs, sturdy walls and ornate
Trombe walls, are starting to improve rural wooden window frames. Lehs a place thats
living standards. all too easy to fall in love with, but take things
Ladakh is famed for crystal-blue skies easy on arrival. The altitude means that most
and enjoys sunshine an average of 300 days visitors initially suer mild headaches and
JAMMU & K ASHMIR (INCLUDING L ADAKH) L A DA K H

a year. But storms can brew suddenly and breathlessness. To prevent this becoming
heavy rain, while very rare, can cause dev- full-blown Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS,
astating (if localised) mudslides. The worst p1193), drink plenty of ginger tea and avoid
in decades hit during August 2010, killing strenuous exertion at rst. Climbing Palace
Ridge or Shanti Stupa on your two days in
around 200 people and rendering thou-
Leh is unwise unless youre already altitude-
sands homeless. At the time of writing, re-
acclimatised.
covery was well under way.
Climate 1 Sights
Ladakhs short tourist season (July to early CENTRAL LEH
September) typically sees pleasantly mild T- Lehs major monuments are perched on the
shirt weather by day, with slightly crisp, oc- stark rocky ridge that forms the towns mes-
casionally chilly nights. However, on higher merising visual focus.
treks night-time temperatures can dip below
5C even in midsummer. By September
snow is likely on higher ground although
major passes usually stay open till October. LADAKH PERMITS
In winter temperatures can fall below 20C
Youll need an inner line permit to visit
and most tourist infrastructure closes.
Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso, Dha-Hanu,
Language Tso Moriri and the Upper Indus (beyond
Though they use the same script, the Tibet- Upshi).
an and Ladakhi languages are signicantly Such permits, valid for seven days
dierent. The wonderfully all-purpose word and unextendable, are eortlessly ob-
jule (pronounced joo-lay) means hello, tained within one working day through
goodbye, please and thanks. To the greet- Leh travel agencies for around 150.
ing khamzang, simply reply khamzang. Youre supposed to have a group (at
Zhimpo-rak means its delicious. Rebecca least two people) to apply but, once you
Normans excellent Getting Started in La- have the permit, travelling alone is rare-
dakhi (200) has more phrases and useful ly prevented. Agencies organise mul-
cultural tips. tiple copies of your passport, visa and
permit, to give to police checkpoints
2 Activities en route, but making extra copies can
In summer Ladakh is an adventure play- prove wise. Whether or not a permit is
ground for outdoor types. Thanks to Lehs required, always carry your passport; as
vast range of agents, making arrangements Ladakhs a border region, checkpoints
is very easy for climbing, rafting, high- are fairly common on rural roads.
altitude trekking or jeep tours.
Leh Palace PALACE being restored and a new Central Asian
(Map p249; Indian/foreigner 5/100; hdawn- Museum (Map p249; www.tibetheritagefund.org/ 245
dusk) Bearing a passing similarity to the Po- pages/projects/ladakh/central-asian-museum.php)
tala Palace in Lhasa (Tibet), this nine-storey is under construction, styled like a tapered
dun-coloured palace took shape under 17th- fortress tower. Thats in a courtyard oppo-
century king Sengge Namgyal. Essentially site Datun Sahib (Map p249), a sacred tree
it has been unoccupied since the Ladakhi supposedly planted in 1517 by a Sikh mystic,
royals were stripped of power and shued though others claim it grew magically from
o to Stok in 1846. Today the very sturdy the walking sta of Staksang Raspa, guru to
walls are mostly unadorned and a few inte- Ladakhs great king Sengge Namgyal.
rior sections remain in a state of partial col- A tunnel-passage leads up to the beauti-
lapse; only the palace prayer room gives any fully reconstructed 17th-century Munshi
sense of former grandeur. Nonetheless its Mansion (Map p249), once the residence of
gently thrilling to weave your way through the Ladakhi royal secretary and now hous-
the maze of dark corridors, hidden stairways ing the Lamo Arts Centre (%251554; www
and makeshift ladders to reach the rooftop .lamo.org.in).
for great views across the city. Carry a torch The squat Guru Lhakhang Shrine (Map
(ashlight) and watch out for holes in the p249) contains newly repainted murals and
oor. a erce-looking Guru Rinpoche statue.
A short rocky scramble above, prominent
Palace Gompas BUDDHIST TEMPLES
Namgyal Stupa (Map p249) is just outside

L ADAKH&SK
JAMMU
A trio of photogenic religious structures the palace walls.
guard the imposing palace entrance. The Informative small-group walking tours
courtyard of the 1840 Soma Gompa is used (per person 300; h9.30am & 3pm, Tue, Thu & Sat)
in summer for traditional dances (Map dawdle around the Old Town starting from
p249; admission 200; h5.30pm). Behind, the

I GASHMIR
Lalas Art Cafe (p257), where you should pre-

HTS
colourfully muralled Chandazik Gompa book. Although advertised as lasting two
(Chenrezi Lhakhang; admission 20; h7am-6pm)
hours, sometimes they take double that.
celebrates the full pantheon of 1000 Bud-
dhas (of which 996 have yet to be born). The Chowkhang Gompa BUDDHIST TEMPLE

(INCLUDING L ADAKH) LS EI GHH T S

main attractions of the red, 1430 Chamba Hidden in a large courtyard behind Main
Lhakhang (Map p249; admission 20; h7am- Bazaar (Map p249), the small, 20th-century
6pm) are the medieval mural fragments be- Chowkhang Gompa has a gilt-roofed prayer
tween the inner and outer walls. Its central room strung with hundreds of prayer ags.
chamber enthrones a very gaudy three-sto- Its the headquarters of the Ladakh Bud-
rey Maitreya statue, reworked in 1957. dhist Association.
Tsemo Fort CASTLE RUIN Womens Alliance CULTURAL PROGRAM
(Map p249; admission 20; hdawn-dusk) Vis- (Map p249; %250293; www.womensalliance
ible from virtually everywhere in Leh, 16th- ladakh.org, www.isec.org.uk/pages/ladakh.html;
century Tsemo (Victory) Fort is a dening h10am-5pm Mon-Sat) To learn more about the
landmark that crowns the top of Palace admirable balance between man and nature
Ridge. Up close, its surprisingly small and in traditional Ladakhi society, consider at-
the shattered walls contain little more than tending one of ISECs relevant lm screen-
apping prayer ags but scrambling around ings here (the venue might change). At
them provides a precarious frisson. Directly 11am theres a varying programme, at 1pm
beneath, Tsemo Gompa consists of two Economics of Happiness and at 3pm the
little 15th-century temple buildings, one excellent hour-long documentary Ancient
enshrining an 8m-tall gold-faced Maitreya. Futures: Learning from Ladakh. Films are
An alternative descent slithers down to a often followed by a group discussion. Dona-
collection of stupas in Chubi. tion appropriate.
Old Town AREA NORTH OF CENTRE
Behind Lehs fanciful Jama Masjid (Sunni Lehs rural qualities, its remarkable net-
mens mosque; Map p249), the winding alleys work of canal-streams and its impressive
and stairways of Old Town burrow between mountain setting become swiftly apparent
and beneath a series of eroded chortens as you wander north. A relatively short yet
(stupas) and traditional mud-brick Ladakhi captivating route follows crooked footpaths
houses. Belatedly, many ner structures are and lanes to little Sankar Gompa (Map p246;
 JAMMU & K ASHMIR (INCLUDING L ADAKH) L A DA K H

246
0 500 m
Leh #0
e 0.25 miles
A B C D E F G
To Donkey To Nubra
11 #

Sanctuary
To Tisuru
10
#
(600m) 22
(230km)

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1 Sa
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6
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CHANGSPA

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66 CHUBI
Forest of
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5 #
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15
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a
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(Wes aar
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#
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#
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See Central Leh Map (p249)
27

Hotel #

Dragon #44
#51

42 #

d
d R 2
# Moti
Fo rt R ld Market
7 O 7

#
49
1 1 #
28 1 1
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50 Siachen
1 1 #

1 1
1 1
#
Friendship
1 1 Gate
1 1

47 45
1
8 1 1 1 1 1 # 8
1 1 1 1 1
#

1 1 1 1 1 1
46
#
To Hall of Fame; 17 Main Bus
1 1 1 1 1 Arrival Point
1 1 1 1 1 1
Main Post Office; #
Station To Men-Tsee-Khang (800m);
for Jeeps #

1 1 1 1 1
Airport

from Manali #48

Choglamasar (14km)
1 1 1 1 1 1
A B C D E F G
1 1 1 1 1
247

JAMMU HTS
I GASHMIR
L ADAKH&SK (INCLUDING L ADAKH) LS EI GHH T S
 248 Leh
Sights Eating
1 Gomang Stupa....................................... C3 32 Amego.....................................................D5
2 Nezer Latho.............................................E7 33 Bon Appetit.............................................D5
3 Sankar Gompa........................................E2 34 Cafe Jeevan ............................................B3
4 Shanti Stupa .......................................... B2 35 Calabria...................................................C4
36 Dzomsa ...................................................C4
Activities, Courses & Tours 37 Otsal Restaurant ....................................C3
5 Himalayan Bikers................................... D4 38 Wonderland Restaurant ........................C4
6 Mahabodih Centre................................. D4
7 Splash Adventures (Changspa Drinking
Branch)................................................ C4 Bon Appetit................................... (see 33)
8 Yama Adventures .................................. D4 39 Elements .................................................D4

Sleeping Entertainment
9 Chow Guest House................................ C4 40 KC Garden Restaurant...........................C4
10 Deskit Villa............................................... E1
11 Druk Ladakh............................................C1 Shopping
12 Dumbang Villa........................................ D3 41 Harish......................................................D4
13 Gangs Shun............................................ B5 42 Moti Market ............................................ E7
JAMMU & K ASHMIR (INCLUDING L ADAKH) L A DA K H

14 Gomang Guest House........................... C3

15 Haldupa Guest House ........................... D5 Information
16 Hotel Gawaling International ................ B4 Oxygen bar ................................... (see 40)
17 Hotel Grand Dragon .............................. D8
18 Hotel Grand Willow................................ D6 Transport
19 Hotel Namgyal Palace........................... C6 43 Air India ...................................................C6
20 Jamspal Guest House ........................... D6 44 Bus to Kargil ........................................... F7
21 Ladakh Residency ................................. C3 45 Ladakh Taxi Operators
22 Lak Rook Garden Guesthouse............... F1 Cooperative .........................................E8
23 Lardakh Guest House............................ C4 46 Main Bus Station - J&K SRTC
24 Norzin Holiday Home ............................ C5 Buses................................................... D8
25 Nurboo Guest house ............................. C2 47 Main Bus Station - LBOC
26 Oriental Guesthouse ............................. C3 Buses................................................... D8
27 Padma Hotel .......................................... D6 48 Main Bus Station - Minibuses................E8
28 Poplar Eco-Resort ................................. C7 49 Shared Jeeps to Kargil........................... E7
29 Royal Ladakh Hotel ............................... D2 50 Taxi Stand............................................... E7
30 Tse-Tan Guest House ............................D1 51 Zabakhana (Shared Taxis to
31 Zee Guest House ................................... D2 Diskit) ...................................................G7

admission 30). Then, for memorable views, afternoon light still illuminates the city but
continue around 1km uphill to the laudable the steps up from Changspa are already
Donkey Sanctuary (Korean Temple Rd) or the bathed in cooling shadow.
nearby 11th-century Tisuru Stupa, a bulky,
Gomang Stupa SACRED SITE
partly-restored mud-brick ruin that looks
(Map p246) This one-of-a-kind, 9th-century
like a half-built ziggurat (stepped pyramid).
stupa rises in concentric serrated layers
WEST OF CENTRE anked by ancient Buddhist rock carvings
Shanti Stupa VIEWPOINT and numerous chortens. Its peaceful, shady
(Map p246) Built in 1991 by Japanese monks setting feels genuinely spiritual.
to promote world peace, this large, hilltop
SOUTH OF CENTRE
stupa has brightly coloured reliefs on its
Hall of Fame MUSEUM
mid-levels and is topped by a spired white
(o Map p246; Indian/foreigner 10/50; h9am-
hemisphere. The greatest attraction is the
stunning view of Leh. Ideally, make the 1pm & 2-7pm) Overlooking the airport runway
breathless 15-minute climb when golden at Km428 of the chokingly busy Leh-Spituk-
Kargil road, this well presented museum
mostly commemorates the various high- paved. The 700 to 900 per person fee in-
altitude battles fought with Pakistan during cludes bike hire, permit and support vehicle 249
the 20th century. Two afterthought rooms (minimum group-size four). Book through
feature Ladakhi culture and nature. Summer Holidays (Map p249; %252651;
Zangsti Rd) or Himalayan Bikers (Map p246;
Nezer Latho VIEWPOINT, SACRED SITE
%250937; www.himalayan-biker.com; Changspa).
(Map p246) This mysterious whitewashed Both also rent mountain bikes (per day 350
cube, topped by a sheaf of juniper twigs, is to 550).
the shrine of Lehs guardian deity. It sits atop
a rocky outcrop oering superb 360-degree Gephel Shadrupling MEDITATION
views over the city through colourful strings (www.ladakh-gsn-nuns.org; Ayu-Sabu) This tiny
of prayer ags, a ve-minute climb from Ho- nunnery, around 6km from Leh, runs ve-
tel Dragon. day meditation courses. The suggested do-
nation of 500 per day includes bed-space
!2! Activities, Courses & Tours and food. Its very hard to nd but Choglam-
Cycling CYCLING sar-based taxi-driver Hassan (%9419243576)
For an exhilarating yet eortless excursion knows the way.
take a jeep ride up to Khardung La (the
worlds highest road-pass, p269) and let Mahabodhi Centre YOGA, MEDITATION

gravity bring you back down. Actually, given (Map p246; %251162; www.mahabodhi-ladakh.org;
the potholes of the uppermost 15km you Changspa Lane; 90min yoga class 150-250) Daily
except Sundays theres a meditation session

L ADAKH&AC
JAMMU
might prefer to start from South Pullu army
camp from which all 25km to Leh are well (by donation) and several 1-hour yoga
classes in a variety of styles. Book here for

Central Leh e
# 00 200 m

K ASHMIR
0.1 miles

T I V I T I E S ,(INCLUDING
A B C D
d
33 23 32
R

#
# #
CHUBI
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Prayer # 27
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Ka
rzo Wheel #

Id

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C O U R S E S & LTO
# Ladakh Festival
10 V
# 59
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Starting Point

Palace
Rd

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17
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#
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# spa
18
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19
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#

# Khan La
#9 # Chenrezi

13 5
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# 54 nzil
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# Lhakhang
11 # Ma
E HT I V I T I E S , C O U R S E S & TO U R S

1
#

# 21
# OLD Buddha
16 #
67 4 TOWN 7 Rock
Up per d # # 14
# 15
# #
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Tukc h a #
52 6 # #
46
31 36 # ##
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#
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49
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# 57
ort Rd

3
#
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# # #
# 43 58 # 64
# 38

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42 #
# 61
#
## #60
## 29
all

39 Fort Rd Ibex Rd #

Mani W

24
# 55
# 37 34
#
#
##
63 #
#
41
# Chortens
Main Bazaar

62 # #26

65 # New
Shar
#
56 # Market
Maney
Tsermo
Tibetan
#44
Polo
4 Main Ground 4
Market
Bazaar
Rd # 50
Moti
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# 30
Market
A B C D
 250 Central Leh
Top Sights 17 Rimo ........................................................A2
Leh Palace.............................................. C2 18 Shayok Tours & Travels.........................A2
Tsemo Fort..............................................D1 19 Snow Leopard Trails ..............................A2
Splash Adventures....................... (see 45)
Sights 20 Sri Sonam Wangyal (IMF) .....................A2
1 Central Asia Museum............................ B2 21 Summer Holidays ..................................A2
2 Chamba Lhakhang ................................ C2 22 Venture Equipment................................A2
Chandazik Gompa .......................... (see 9)
3 Chowkhang Gompa............................... B3 Sleeping
4 Datun Sahib Sacred Tree...................... B2 23 Hotel Saser ............................................. A1
5 Guru Lhakhang Shrine .......................... B2 24 Hotel Tso-Kar .........................................A3
6 Jama Masjid ........................................... B3 25 Indus Guest House.................................A3
Lamo Arts Centre ........................... (see 7) 26 Namgyal Guest House...........................D4
7 Munshi Mansion .................................... C2 27 New Royal Guest House ........................ B1
8 Namgyal Stupa ...................................... B2 28 Old Ladakh Guest House.......................C3
9 Soma Gompa ......................................... C2 29 Palace View Guest House......................C3
10 Tsemo Gompa ........................................D1 30 Pangong Hotel........................................A4
31 Peace Guest House................................A3
JAMMU & K ASHMIR (INCLUDING L ADAKH) L A DA K H

Activities, Courses & Tours 32 Rehela Guest House .............................. B1

11 Hemis National Park Guide 33 Travellers' House ................................... A1
Service................................................. A2
12 Ladakh Eco Adventure.......................... B3 Eating
13 Ladakh Tour Escort............................... A2 34 Chopsticks..............................................A3
14 Ladakhi Women's Travel 35 Dolphin Bakery .......................................A3
Company............................................. A3 36 Dzomsa ...................................................A3
15 Little Tibet .............................................. B3 37 Dzomsa ...................................................A3
16 Open Ladakh.......................................... A2 38 Gesmo.....................................................A3

residential courses (3/10 days 3000/7000) cial permission from Delhi and thus take
in vipassana meditation at the organi- months of preparation. However, any others
sations much bigger Meditation Centre, are usually issued in minutes through IMFs
approximately 1km north of Km464.2 in Leh representative, Sri Sonam Wangyal
Choglamsar where Sunday introduction-to- (Map p249; %252992; www.indmount.org; Chang-
meditation sessions cost 500 including bus spa Rd) whose house-oce is tucked incon-
transfer from Leh. gruously into the Mentokling Restaurant
yard. The youngest man to scale Everest
Mountain Climbing MOUNTAINEERING
back in 1965, he happily shows o his med-
Stok Kangri (6120m) is the triangular snow- als and recounts climbing yarns. Youll need
capped peak usually visible straight across six copies of your passport and visa plus
the valley from Leh. As a trekking peak its details of your guide. Agencies can apply on
accessible to those with minimal climbing your behalf.
experience but scaling its uppermost slopes
still requires ice axes, crampons, considerable Open Ladakh MEDITATION
tness and a guide with groups roped togeth- (Map p249; %9906981026; www.openladakh.com;
er for safety. Pre-climb acclimatisation is es- Hemis Complex, 1st , unit 23) Runs one-hour
sential as AMS can be a serious worry. Many meditation sessions at 4pm Monday to
agencies oer Stok Kangri packages generally Thursday, a Wednesday all-day workshop
taking ve days from Stok or Zingchen. on understanding Buddhism (300), week-
Ladakh has over 100 other climbable end vipassana residential retreats in Stok
peaks above 6000m, many rarely, if ever, (2000) and monthly meditation treks.
scaled. Venture Equipment (Map p249) and
other Changspa outts rent climbing gear. Rafting & Kayaking OUTDOOR ADVENTURE

Per-person peak fees range from US$50 In summer, numerous agencies oer daily
(trekking peaks) to US$400 according to rafting excursions through glorious canyon
peak height. Peaks over 7000m require spe- scenery. You can also follow in a kayak for
 251
Ladag Apricot Store .....................(see 36) 52 Ladakh Bookshop ..................................B3
39 Lamayuru Restaurant ........................... A3 LEDeg............................................ (see 59)
40 Norlakh ................................................... B3 53 Leh Ling Bookshop ................................B3
Pumperknickel German 54 Otdan Bookshop ....................................A2
Bakery ........................................(see 45) 55 Tibetan Refugee Market ........................A3
Tandoori Bakeries .......................... (see 4) 56 Wamda Wood Carving...........................A4
41 Summer Harvest ................................... A3 Women's Alliance......................... (see 48)
42 Tenzin Dickey......................................... A3
43 Vegetable Market .................................. B3 Information
57 Het Ram Vinay Kumar
Drinking Pharmacy.............................................B3
44 Desert Rain ............................................ B4 58 J&K Bank ATM .......................................B3
45 Il Forno.................................................... B3 59 LEDeG (Ladakh Ecological
Indus Wine Shop...........................(see 58) Development Group) .......................... B1
46 Lala's Art Caf........................................ B3 60 Tourist Office..........................................B3
47 Zoya Cafe ............................................... C3
Transport
Entertainment HPTDC Booking Office ................ (see 34)

L ADAKH&AC
JAMMU
Traditional Ladakhi 61 HPTDC Booking Office ..........................A3
Song-&-Dance Shows ................. (see 9) 62 HPTDC Buses Departure
48 Women's Alliance ...................................C1 Point .....................................................B3
63 Jeep and Taxi Stand...............................B3
Shopping 64 Jet Airways .............................................B3

K ASHMIR
T I V I T I E S ,(INCLUDING
49 Book Worm ............................................ A3 65 Motorcycle Rental Companies..............A4
50 Gol Market.............................................. B4 66 Motorcycle Rental Companies..............A3
51 Handicrafts Industrial 67 Taxi Stand...............................................B2
Cooperative Shop............................... A3 68 Vajra Voyages.........................................B3

C O U R S E S & LTO
around 50% extra. Prepare to get very wet. group, organising permits, vehicle and driv-
There are two main routes, Phey to Nim- er. Five per jeep is optimal for comfort versus
mu grade II (beginners) from 1000; and expense. Most popular excursions are Pan-
Chiling to Nimmu grade III, tougher, gong Tso or the Nubra/Shyok Valleys. Book

ADAKH)
from 1400; kayakers must be experienced. at least 24 hours ahead.
Rimo (Map p249; %253348; www.rimoriver Shayok Tours & Travels (Map p249; URS
expeditions.com; Zangsti Rd) has very helpful %9419342346, 9419888902; shayoktravels@
sta and oers two-day kayaking courses rediffmail.com; Changspa Rd) Frank, trustwor-
LAC
E HT I V I T I E S , C O U R S E S & TO U R S

for beginners and a twice-yearly expedition thy and helpful. Can organise inner line
making a full four-day rafting descent of the permits for travellers on motorbikes.
Zanskar river from near Padum (US$728
Yama Adventures (Map p246; %250833;
inclusive). Splash Adventures (%254870;
www.yamatreks.com; Changspa Rd) Consistent
www.splashladakh.com) Central (Map p249; Zangsti
recommendations from several readers
Rd) Changspa (Map p246; Changspa Rd) is anoth-
underlining their eco-credentials.
er useful contact.
Ladakh Tour Escort (Map p249; %255825;
Trekking & Jeep Safaris OUTDOOR ADVENTURE Zangsti) Honest and obliging.
Countless agencies oer trekking packages
Snow Leopard Trails (Map p249; %252074;
(p252) and jeep tours. Few seem systemati-
Hotel Kang-Lha-Chen Complex, Zangsti Rd)
cally bad but many are very inconsistent. In
reality, a deciding factor is often which agent Little Tibet (Map p249; %252951; www.little
happens to have a group leaving on the day tibetladakh.com; Zangsti Rd)
you need. The ones weve listed here proved Ladakh Eco Adventure (Map p249;
competent and/or were warmly recommend- %252951; www.ladakh-eco-adventures.com)
ed by travellers. For multi-day jeep hires,
agencies can put together a fare-sharing
 252 TREKKING IN LADAKH & ZANSKAR
Bargain value, thrillingly scenic treks can take you into magical roadless villages, through
craggy gorges and across dazzlingly stark mountain passes.

Seasons
The season is essentially July and August. Storms occasionally interrupt itineraries and
snow is possible from early September. In February you could attempt the challenging
Chadar ice-trek (p241).

Preparation
As most trekking routes start around 3500m (often climbing above 5000m) proper accli-
matisation is essential to avoid AMS (p1193). You could acclimatise with baby treks or by
adding extra (less interesting) days to the core treks, for instance starting from Lamayuru,
Spituk or Martselang rather than Hinju/Photoksar, Zingchen or Shang Sumdo.
Book a jeep transfer from your nishing point or choose to end up somewhere with
public transport (eg Stok).

Horse Treks
At these altitudes carrying heavy packs is much more exhausting than many anticipate so
JAMMU & K ASHMIR (INCLUDING L ADAKH) L A DA K H

consider engaging packhorses (the accompanying horseman can often double as a guide)
or do a homestay trek (see below). Agencies will happily arrange all-in packages with
horses, guides, food and (often old) camping gear starting from around $35 per person per
day. If youre self-sucient (tent, food) its often possible to nd your own horseman from
300 per horse per day, but prices rise considerably during August (harvest season) and
many horsemen are contracted to agencies, so even at Lamayuru or Padum youll need
patience. If booking horses or trekking late in the season, expect to pay for the necessary
extra days travel between trailhead and stables (for many agency horses, thats Spituk).

Homestay Treks
Rural homestays and/or parachute cafes are now available along many (though not all)
popular trekking routes, reducing or negating the need to carry signicant supplies and
camping gear. Such homestays (typically 400/700 per single/double including simple
meals) provide a fascinating window into local culture; youll generally eat with the family in
their traditional kitchen, their pots and pans proudly displayed above the Aga-style winter
stove. You might even be able to help harvesting or planting the family elds. Mud-brick
rooms generally have rugs and blankets for bedding, some have solar-battery electric
lamps. On popular routes its probably worth paying the 50 extra to have Leh agencies
(listed on www.himalayan-homestays.com) book bed-space for you. However, given the
lack of telephones, such bookings are essentially just notes in Ladakhi asking a host to

4 Sleeping Hot water is typically provided either

Leh has hundreds of guesthouses and around morning or evening (sometimes both) using
60 hotels. Conditions in rock-bottom places wood-red boilers. Water can take up to 10
are usually simple rather than sleazy, though minutes to run warm, wasting a precious re-
room standards can vary signicantly within source. An ecofriendly alternative is to request
each property so, when possible, look before hot water by bucket or use it less often. Gey-
you book. Many budget places wont take sers are likely to be more common and power
advance bookings. If all our suggestions are cuts less frequent once the Alchi hydro-power
full, there are dozens of other decent budget dam comes online (probably 2012). Many
options, especially in Changspa and Karzoo. guesthouses will provide towels on request.
Often, better guesthouses (around 700) Toilet paper is rarely included and usually
are preferable to lacklustre 2200 hotels with should NOT be ushed (use the plastic bin).
ill-tting carpets, saggy beds and faux veneer Most accommodation closes in winter. A
panelling. A few slap on 10% service fees. few hotels and family guesthouses do stay
 253

give you priority. In Rumbak and Sham villages its generally OK to turn up unannounced.
Engaging a guide (typically 800 per day) is worthwhile for security, route-nding and to
better appreciate social interactions en route. Useful contacts:
Ladakhi Womens Travel Company (Map p249; %250973; www.ladakhiwomenstravel
.com; Hemis Complex, 1st fl, unit 14, Leh; h10am-7pm) Female run, but male customers ac-
cepted. Recommended but only four guides available.
Hemis National Park Guide Service (Map p249; %256207; hemis_npark@yahoo.co.in;
Hemis Complex, 1st fl, unit 11, Leh; h9am-1pm & 2-7pm) Dozens of guides available.

Which Trek?
Popular options:

DAYS ROUTE HOMESTAYS? HIGH PASSES SEE

2 Zingchen-Rumbak-Stok plenty 4900m p262
2 Hinju-Sumdho Chinmu-Sumdha Do yes, limited space 4950m p268
2-4 Itchar-Phuktal-Itchar yes, limited space no p242
3+ Chiling-Skiu (Markha Valley)-Yurutse/ yes 4920m p262

L ADAKH&SK
JAMMU
Rumbak-Zingchen
5+ Chiling-Kaya-Markha-Hankar-Nimaling- yes (or tent-camp) 5030m p263
Shang Sumdo
5 (8) (Rumtse)-Tso Khar-Korzok no four (seven) p277

L EASHMIR
E P I N G (INCLUDING L ADAKH) LS EL H
6 (8) (Padum)-Itchar-Darcha including some days 5090m p242
Phuktal
5 (9) (Lamayuru-Honupatta)-Photoksar- some days at least four p267
Lingshet-Hanumil-(Padum)

For something relatively easy, ZingchenRumbakYurutseZingchen makes a great one-

or two-day sampler from Leh, Markha Valley routes before Nimaling have no passes to
cross and Sham (p265) treks are little more than road walks between attractive old
villages.

Further Information
Lonely Planets Trekking in the Indian Himalaya
Trailblazers Trekking in Ladakh
EEPING

www.myhimalayas.com/travelogues/ladakh.htm.

open, the latter often charging 100 extra for eral other great-value choices on the same
heating and oering only bucket water since quiet lane, including the nearby Hotel
pipes freeze. Saser (%250162; Karzoo Lane; d 600-1000).

CENTRAL LEH New Royal Guest House GUESTHOUSE $

The following accommodation features on (%252956; Idgha Rd; d 800, without bathroom
Map p249. 600) A notch above many hotels, the rooms
have smart ttings, wood-eect oors and
Travellers House GUESTHOUSE $
bathrooms with designer shower-heads. The
(%250419; thetravellershouse@gmail.com; Kar- upper-oor balcony has a swing seat perus-
zoo Lane; d 500-600) Eight well-kept guest ing mountain and fortress views.
rooms with geyser-equipped bathrooms
face the friendly familys attractive tradi- Palace View Guest House GUESTHOUSE $
tional home and vegetable patch. Great cas- (%250773; palace.view@hotmail.com; d from 450,
tle views from the at roof. There are sev- without bathroom 200-300) First opened in
 1975, this upliftingly lived-in family place has powered homestay with bright unfussy
254 garden seating, two sitting rooms and a roof- rooms, free drinking water and use of the
top with brilliant views of the palace ridge. kitchen/laundry tap.
Rooms are simple with ageing but clean Peace Guest House GUESTHOUSE $
linen, the cheapest using camp-beds. Bath- (%253514; r 400) Very central yet quietly
rooms have geysers. The owners are friendly tucked away in a hidden garden, this new
and conscientious. Ladakhi dinners available bungalow has five good value, gleamingly
if you order by 5pm. Open year-round. clean rooms each with decent bathrooms.
Pangong Hotel HOTEL $$
NORTH OF CENTRE
(%254655; www.pangongladakh.com; Chulung
Lane; s/d 2000/2210; iW) Despite a few Karzoo becomes delightfully rural towards
signs of wear, the Pangong is comparatively the north and west and has some of Lehs
stylish with attractive pine cladding in pub- best-value budget accommodation but there
lic areas. The best rooms are on the top oor are no shops or restaurants and at night its
with rooftop terraces. Wi- per hour/day a long, dark walk home from town if youre
costs 100/500. as far out as Sankar or Yurthung. The follow-
ing accommodation features on Map p246.
Namgyal Guest House GUESTHOUSE $
(%253307; d 400, s/d/tr without bathroom oRoyal Ladakh HOTEL $$
150/200/300) En suite rooms have var- (%251646; www.hotelroyalladakh.com; Upper
nished log ceilings, geyser and sit-down Karzoo Ln; s/d 1800/2450; W) Behind the
JAMMU & K ASHMIR (INCLUDING L ADAKH) L A DA K H

ush toilet, though some seem dusty and manicured lawn, whitewashed facade and
have foam beds. Many have views of Stok traditionally carved wooden window frames
Kangri and the Maney Tsermo stupas. lies a stylishly appointed modern hotel with
Cheaper rooms are simple but recently re- ne linen, at-screen TVs and 1960s-retro
painted and share three bathrooms (seatless bathrooms. Virtually every room has oodles
toilets) in a cube of traditional old building. of space and inspiring views of either Stok
Kangri or Tsemo Fort.
Old Ladakh Guest House GUESTHOUSE $
(%252951; www.littletibetladakh.com; d 400-600, Dumbang Villa GUESTHOUSE $
without bathroom s/d 200/300) Picked out with (%9419219416; Sankar Ln; d 300-600) One of
distinctive crimson timbers, theres a central Lehs best value guesthouses, this new bun-
courtyard, traditional kitchen/breakfast room galow is set in peaceful gardens with wide
and phenomenal rooftop view. Downstairs panoramic views. Fair-sized rooms come
rooms are dingily claustrophobic, others are with wicker seats, log ceilings and good
bright if worn; room 304 has roof terrace and bathrooms (hot water by bucket).
settees. New annex under construction.
Tse-Tan Guest House GUESTHOUSE $

SIndus Guest House GUESTHOUSE $

(%250510; tsetan_n@yahoo.com; Upper Changspa;
r without bathroom 200-300) Worth the walk
(%252502; masters _ adv@yahoo.co.in; Malpak Al-
for large, airy rooms sharing very clean
ley; d 300-700; W) All 16 rooms are en suite,
bathrooms with geysers. There are perfect-
the water heated all day by a furnace burn-
ly framed mountain views from the upper
ing waste (cardboard, cow-dung etc). Little
front rooms and the adorable host family
shared terraces have fortress views and the
plies guests with endless mint tea. Other
semi-enclosed courtyard is peacefully tree-
peaceful family guesthouses costing under
shaded. Food, served on request, is mostly
300 include friendly Zee Guest House
sourced from the well-travelled familys or-
(%251131; r without bathroom 250) and Nur-
ganic farm. Original treks available.
boo Guest House (%9419340947; s/d without
Hotel Tso-Kar HOTEL $$
bathroom 200/300), where youll be serenad-
(%255763; www.lehladakhhotel.com; Fort Rd; ed by the sound of rushing water.
d from 1000) Rooms have newly re-tiled
bathrooms but otherwise arent quite as Gomang Guest House GUESTHOUSE $
attractive as the seductively colonnaded (%252657; Old Karzoo; r without bathroom 200-
courtyard might imply. 300) A warren of wobbly stairways links
simple rooms sharing Ladakhi and Western
SRehela Guest House HOMESTAY $ bathrooms. A big plus is the pair of 1st-oor
(%250969; Tsemoview Alley; d 400-500, without sitting areas overlook Gomang Stupa.
bathroom 200-300) Small, partly solar-
SLak Rook Guest House GUESTHOUSE $
heated water. The upstairs restaurant and
255
(%252987; Sankar; s/d 300/350, s/d/tr without common balconies enjoy ne mountain
bathroom 200/250/300) This cult traveller views, theres a library, 8 water rells and
favourite is a large, ramshackle Ladakhi free wi-. The guesthouse section (d 600)
farmhouse almost lost within its vast or- with shared bathrooms occupies the fam-
ganic vegetable garden. Friendly owners ilys traditional Ladakhi house, complete
and good food but be prepared for lumpy with traditional kitchen and chapel/medita-
ageing mattresses, paper-bag lampshades tion room.
and other minor inconveniences. Ladakhi Gangs-Shun HOMESTAY $
toilet available. (%252603; morup_lee@yahoo.co.in; Upper Tukcha
Rd; d 600-700, f 800) Five guest rooms above
S Oriental Guest an attractive new family home come with
House HOTEL, GUESTHOUSE $ good beds, quality parquet ooring and at-
(%253153; www.oriental-ladakh.com; Shanti Rd; r tached bathrooms that are better quality than
600-1000, without bathroom 150/250; hyear- in most Leh hotels. Shared upper terrace.
round; i) This self-contained 70-room com-
plex on the edge of Changspa uses solar Chow Guest House GUESTHOUSE $
heating, has a lobby-library with internet, a (%252399; d 400, without bathroom 250)
central lawn and both traditional and mod- Sparkling clean, airy budget rooms with
ern glass-fronted kitchens, the latter serving good mattresses and log ceilings in two new
but unobtrusive buildings set in a beautiful

L ADAKH&SK
JAMMU
a full-scale restaurant. Rooms range from
very basic, through fair-value 600 doubles ower-lled garden down a narrow path
to newer 1000 versions with sizes and from Changspa Rd.
views that vary.
Jamspal Guest House GUESTHOUSE $
Deskit Villa

L EASHMIR
GUESTHOUSE $$
(%251272; Mayower Alley; r 400-500, without
(%253498; Sankar; d incl breakfast 1200)

E P I N G (INCLUDING L ADAKH) LS EL H
bathroom 200-300) Super-friendly family
But for the typically undulating carpets, place, with large garden, shrine and tradi-
rooms would be adorable with marble- tional-style sitting room. Simple but central,
floored bathrooms and private balconies and open year-round.
(in some). An attraction is the thatched
gazebo in the raised garden offering com- Norzin Holiday Home GUESTHOUSE $
fortable outdoor reading space. Includes (%252022; norzinholidays@gmail.com; Upper
breakfast Tukcha Rd; r 500-600, without bathroom s/d
Druk Ladakh HOTEL $$$
200/300) Unusually well-kept local home
(%251702; Yurthung; s/d/ste 3400/4400/6400; with roof terrace, garden seating and a grape-
W) Echoing acres of marble, carved wood
vine dominating the glassed-in veranda. Free
and crimson furniture lead to relatively drinking water rells, welcoming family.
indulgent new rooms with parquet floors, Haldupa Guest House GUESTHOUSE $
flat screen TVs and closable shower booths. (%251374; Upper Tukcha Rd; r 400-500, without
EEPING

Luxuries even run to free toilet paper. bathroom 250) One airy, cheaper room (with
shared squat) is inside the wonderfully au-
WEST OF CENTRE
thentic original house, home to an utterly
Pleasant, if trac-clogged, Fort Rd and
enchanting local family. The rest are com-
Changspa Rd are conveniently full of cafes,
pact but brand new with good bathrooms in
internet travel agencies and tourist shops.
a separate block facing the garden.
The Tukcha roads are quieter while side lanes
take you swiftly into another, altogether more Hotel Gawaling International HOTEL $$
peaceful world with dozens of decent sleep- (%253252; www.hotelgawaling.com; s/d/deluxe
ing options available. The following accom- 1980/2640/2970; iW) Rooms are better
modation features on Map p246. maintained than at most other Leh hotels
with parquet oors and good bathrooms
SPadma Hotel HOTEL $$ albeit oering minimal toiletries. Each has
(%252630; www.padmaladakh.net; d 1850-2200; a balcony (huge in deluxe rooms) facing at-
iW) Hidden in a large garden, the eco- tractively rural scenery and the whole com-
aware Padma has attractively appointed plex is serenaded by a owing river. Wi-
new hotel rooms with fan, bed lamps, good is free, internet 100 per hour. Road access
linen and simple bathrooms using solar- from Upper Tukcha Rd.
 Ladakh Residency HOTEL $$$ W) Lehs only really international-standard
256 (%254111; www.ladakhresidency.com; Changspa hotel, the Grand Dragon is professionally ap-
Rd; s/d/ste 3850/4950/6600; W) This brand- pointed with functioning lift, tting carpets
new layered collage of wooden balconies and rooms approximating to business stan-
and marble oors is one of the few wheel- dards (safe and fridge in suites). However,
chair-friendly buildings in Ladakh, though it its away from shops down a busy road and
feels disproportionately large for Changspa theres an ugly foreground to the mountain
and a carpark lls most of what should be views. Open year-round. Wi- 300/1600
the garden. per hour/day.
Lha-Ri-Sa Resort HOTEL $$
Hotel Namgyal Palace HOTEL $$
(%252423; www.ladakh-lharisa.com; s/d/ste
(%256356; namgyalpalace.com; Fort Rd; s/d/ste
2800/3380/6000) Strikingly designed, the
1570/2180/3630; W) The facades clashing
soaring atrium is held aloft on temple-like
mix of silvered windows and Tibetan wood-
pillars. Raised walkways between apple
work is eye-catching if discordant. Rooms
trees link large, high-ceilinged rooms with
have well-appointed bathrooms (including
1940s-retro walnut furniture. This is argu-
toiletries) and seats in the bay windows
ably Lehs best hotel but its 3km south of
from which to contemplate mountain pan-
town via unpleasantly busy major roads so
oramas (upper oor rooms). Better than
youll need wheels to go almost anywhere
most in this price range but there are some
of interest. Ample parking.
minor housekeeping niggles.
JAMMU & K ASHMIR (INCLUDING L ADAKH) L A DA K H

SPoplar Eco-Resort ECORESORT $$

5!Eating
!
(%253518; poplar_ecoresort@yahoo.com; Shenam Traveller cafes abound, Israeli and Chinese
Rd; s/d 1600/2200, full board 2450/3300) Lost options supplementing curries, banana
in the birdsong of an overgrown apricot or- pancakes, tandoori pizzas and Tibetan fa-
chard are a series of two-room cottages, each vourites but curiously few restaurants oer
pair sharing a veranda with wicker chairs. true Ladakhi food (try Chopsticks or request
Rooms have good tiled bathrooms with it at family guesthouses). Many eateries, in-
all-day hot water, though beds are soft and cluding Changspas numerous garden-res-
decor is mostly lacking. Most food and juice taurants, close from mid-September to July,
served is sourced from the organic garden. their owners often decamping to Goa.
Lardakh Guest House HOMESTAY $ CENTRAL LEH
(%250480; s/d/view without bathroom You wont need a guide to nd the numer-
150/200/300) From the wobbly old pillars ous rooftop and Tibetan/Chinese restau-
to the rooftop shrine, this is the absolute rants dotted all along Main Bazaar but while
archetype of a classic Ladakhi house but it there are a few decent options, food tends to
makes few concessions to Western comfort be better and gardens more inviting if you
and the bathroom is in the big, attractive head out along Fort Rd or into Changspa.
garden. Self caterers can buy fresh produce from the
Hotel Grand Willow HOTEL $$ vegetable market (Old Fort Rd) or from co-
(%251835; www.hotelgrandwillow.net; Fort Rd; s/d lourfully dressed women along Main Bazaar.
1600/2200) Three floors of carved balco- Fresh-baked bread rounds (3) are sold hot
nies fold around a small, neat garden area. from traditional wood-red tandoori bak-
Recently re-painted rooms have ceiling eries behind Jama Masjid.
mouldings and silky bedcovers and al- The following eateries feature on Map
though a little dark, come with good new p249.
bathrooms. Discounts possible.
Chopsticks ASIAN $$

SOUTH OF CENTRE (Fort Rd; mains 60-180, rice 55) This 3rd-oor
Noisy Old Road has several lacklustre mid- pan-Asian restaurant is one of Lehs most
range options and package tour places, of stylish eateries. Their Wonderwok stir-fries
which only a couple are recommended. and Thai green curry are excellent and prices
are very fair, given the high quality of service.
Hotel Grand Dragon HOTEL $$$
(Map p246; %250786; www.thegranddragonladakh. Norlakh TIBETAN $

com; Old Rd, Shenam; s/d/ste 6050/7150/11,000; (Main Bazaar; mains 40-100, momos 50-95, rice
30) The best of several town-centre options
with mildly trendy decor touches and great prepared dishes includes sublime cashew
pure-veg Tibetan food. Try the cheese-and- chicken in pesto sauce. 257
spinach momos or special gyathuk (a rich
noodle soup). Its upstairs and easy to miss Calabria MULTICUISINE $

hidden behind a willow tree almost opposite (Changspa Rd; mains 45-90, rice 30, pastas
Ladakh Bookshop. 160-180) The decor wins no prizes and traf-
c outside can be annoying but the vegetar-
Pumpernickel German ian Indian and Chinese fare is consistently
Bakery BAKERY CAFE $ excellent, sensibly priced and obligingly
(Zangsti Rd; meals 70-180) Behind the simple served. Pastries and real espressos (30) are
bakery counter (good strudels) is a mer- available, electricity willing.
rily ramshackle dining room with Ladakhi
wooden columns and a full multicuisine Caf Jeevan MULTICUISINE $

menu. (Booklovers Retreat; Changspa Rd; meals 70-140)

Despite the comparatively sophisticated ap-
Gesmo MULTICUISINE $ pearance, prices arent signicantly higher
(Fort Rd, curries 40-100, rice 35) Old-fashioned than most bog-standard traveller pads. A
traveller haunt, with gingham tablecloths, glass-sided kitchen turns out high quality
checkerboard ceilings, and a range of cakes, vegetarian meals in a wide range of cuisines,
breakfasts and good-value meals from cur- including some of Lehs best pizza. Theres
ries to yak-cheese pizza. also a two-case bookshop and a covered roof
terrace.

L ADAKH&DKRASHMIR
JAMMU
Tenzin Dickey TIBETAN $
(Fort Rd, mains 40-70) Cosy if unpretentious Amego KOREAN $$
eatery serving generous portions of excel- (mains 85-400; h9am-8pm Mon-Sat) A wide
lent vegetarian Tibetan and Chinese food range of very authentic Korean specialities
at sensible prices. Try the delectable cheese served in a rural farmhouse setting sur-

I N K I N G (INCLUDING L ADAKH) LDERHI N K I N G

kothay (like Japanese gyoza). rounded by barley elds.
Summer Harvest MULTICUISINE $$ Wonderland Restaurant MULTICUISINE $
(Fort Rd; mains 70-120, rice 30-90) Tourist (Changspa Lane; meals 70-190, rice 30) The
favourite with pseudo-traditional lacquered- brick-thick menu is a veritable dictionary
wood columns and dangling mod-Chinese of cuisines covering virtually all bases. The
lamps. Our malai kofta was divine but mo- rooftop oers indoor and outdoor seating,
mos were bullet-proof. Service charge 10%. limited views and respite from trac noise.
Prices are reasonable. Real coee served.
Lamayuru Restaurant MULTICUISINE $
(Fort Rd; curries 30-80, rice 25) Plain but reli- Otsal Restaurant MULTICUISINE $
able backpacker place for good inexpensive (Changspa Rd; mains 40-90, pizza 90-130) Ser-
Indian, Chinese and international snacks, enaded by a gurgling stream, this pleasant
all vegetarian. A 70 thali is available backpacker retreat includes rooftop seating
till 7pm. plus an indoor area of oor mats and colour-
ful Tibetan tables.
Dolphin Bakery CAFE $
(Malpak Alley; mains 40-120) Cakes and snack
meals served in the open air at a simple tri-
6! Drinking
!
Many garden and rooftop restaurants serve
angle of a tree-shaded, streamside terrace.
beer, but its almost never on the menu: ask
CHANGSPA the waiter. Bon Appetit has a cocktail menu
The following eateries feature on Map and pours a mean mojito (170). For take-
p246. away booze the handy Indus Wine Shop
(Map p249; Ibex Rd; h10am-1pm & 3-9pm) is
oBon Appetit MULTICUISINE $$ closed on the 8th, 10th and 15th days of the
(%251533; mains 180-350; h11am-late) By far Tibetan calendar.
Lehs most imaginative restaurant is a styl-
ish exercise in Ladakhi minimalist archi- oLalas Art Cafe CAFE
tecture and oers a wide panorama of the (Map p249; Old Town; h8.30am-7.30pm) A tiny,
southern mountains. A limited but thor- brilliantly restored mud-brick Old Town
oughly scrumptious selection of artistically house with trip-you-up stone steps and an
open roof terrace serving great Italian coee
 258
and scrumptious cake-of-the-day. Read the 3!Entertainment
!
newspapers then check out the ancient carved KC Garden Restaurant CINEMA RESTAURANT
steles in the ground oor shrine section. (Map p246; Changspa Rd) One of Changspas
Elements GARDEN CAFE liveliest evening spots. Open-air movies are
(Map p246; Changspa Rd; hnoon-late) The idio- projected (around 8pm most nights) and
syncratic food is almost as full of herbs as KCs is also the pickup point for monthly all-
the clients cigarettes in this popular open- night parties (400 including transport) on
air chillout. Adobe-style low walls separate full-moon nights May to August.
cushioned ground-spaces, theres an open Traditional Ladakhi Song-&-Dance
re on colder evenings and after the moun- Shows CULTURAL PROGRAM
tain views have faded into darkness, movies (Map p249; admission R200; h5.30pm) Tourist-
or music vids are often projected. Open un- oriented performances on summer eve-
usually late. Beer available. nings outside Soma Gompa, partly visible
Zoya Cafe CAFE for free from the ridge behind.
(Map p249; Old Town; h9am-7pm) Handy as
a landmark when climbing to the palace 7! Shopping
!
or as a tea-stop when returning, entry is Many colourful souvenir shops and Ti-
disconcertingly through a typical local betan Refugee Markets (Map p249) sell
home but the 360-degree rooftop views wide selections of thangkas, Ladakhi hats,
are unparalleled anywhere in Leh. antiques and heavy turquoise jewellery, as
JAMMU & K ASHMIR (INCLUDING L ADAKH) L A DA K H

Desert Rain CAFE well as Kashmiri shawls and various Nepali,

(Map p249; New Shar Market; h9am-9pm Mon- Tibetan and Chinese knick-knacks.
Sat) Relaxed Western-style cafe serving Several bookshops are well stocked with
good coffee and various teas with plenty of postcards, novels, spiritual works and books
(predominantly Christian) books to read. on Ladakh, Kashmir and Tibet.
Film nights on Saturdays around 5.30pm.
LEDeG HANDICRAFTS
Il Forno RESTAURANT-BAR (Ladakh Ecological Development Group; Map p249;
(Map p249; Zangsti Rd) One of several gastro- www.ledeg.org; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat) Sells
nomically lacklustre rooftop restaurants crafts and clothes that are locally produced
above Main Bazaar where town views and (see www.himalayanhandicrafts.org) and
(sometimes cold) beer are the main attrac- generally very fair value. Behind (except
tions. The thin-crust, wood-oven pizzas weekends) you can peruse their display of
(140190) are OK too. renewable energy devices and visit their
one-room exhibition featuring a typical La-
dakhi kitchen scene.

LEH ECO AWARENESS

Water is precious those streams you see cascading beside virtually every lane arent a
sign of plenty but an elaborate network of irrigation that keep Leh from reverting to dusty
mountain desert. Anything you can do to save water is a positive step. One move among
guesthouses is to encourage eco-aware clients to use traditional Ladakhi long-drop toilets.
These recycle human waste into compost with earth occasionally sprinkled over the latest
deposits. These brilliant inventions prevent sewerage from polluting streams while avoiding
the terrible water wastage of ush toilets. But dont put anything nonbiodegradeable down
the hole. Remember whatever goes in will end up on the farmers eld in a year or two.
To save Leh from vanishing under a sea of plastic bottles, rells of pressure-boiled, pu-
ried water are provided by environmental organisations Dzomsa (Map p249 & Map p246;
rell 7; h8am-10.30pm) which has branches on Changspa Rd, Fort Rd and Main Bazaar
and LEDeG (Map p249; %253221; www.ledeg.org; rell 5;h9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat). Both
also oer recycling and disposal services for paper, bottles and batteries while Dzomsa
also oers an eco-friendly laundry service (70 per kg).
Sensitive travellers are encouraged to buy locally sourced foods, eg apricots and
tsestalulu (sea buckthorn) juice instead of imported chocolate and packaged soft drinks.
Get these and other local fruit products at Dzomsa or Ladag Apricot Store (Map p249;
h9am-6pm).
Ladakh Bookshop BOOKSHOP There are numerous moneychangers on
(Ladakh Ecological Development Group; Map p249; Changspa Rd and Main Bazaar. Compare rates 259
Main Bazaar) Hidden upstairs near the SBI carefully. Lehs two ATMs are the only ones in
ATM, its the best stocked of the bookshops. Ladakh and are often over-stretched. Keep back-
up cash for emergencies.
It publishes locally relevant works and stocks
Olizanes pricey, slightly awed but indispen- Central post office (Main Bazaar; h10am-
4.30pm Mon-Sat)
sible Ladakh Trekking Maps (www.abram.
ch/lzmmaps.php) for 1300 per sheet. Cyber Station (Fort Rd; internet per hr 90;
h9am-11pm) One floor below Chopsticks, this
Womens Alliance HANDICRAFTS unusually comfy internet cafe has a generator,
(Ladakh Ecological Development Group; Map satellite connection and serves great coffee
p249; www.womensallianceladakh.org; h10am- (40) and free black tea.
5pm Mon-Sat) Sells similar wares to LEDeG. Het Ram Vinay Kumar pharmacy (Map p249;
Handicrafts Industrial Cooperative Main Bazaar; h9.30am-8pm)
Shop HANDICRAFTS J&K Forex (1st fl, Himalaya Complex, Main
(Ladakh Ecological Development Group; Map Bazaar; h8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat)
Good exchange rates, better still for travellers
p249; Old Fort Rd; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri) This
cheques. ATM on Ibex Rd.
shop and Wamda Wood Carving sell
Men-Tsee-Khang (www.men-tsee-khang.org;
wooden choktse tables carved with images h8.30am-1pm & 2-5.30pm Mon-Fri & 1st & 3rd
of mythical beasts. Sat). Amchi (Tibetan herbal medicine) consul-
Wamda Wood Carving HANDICRAFTS tations with no appointment required; average

L ADAKH&8 K ASHMIR (INCLUDING L ADAKH) L8 E H

JAMMU
(Ladakh Ecological Development Group; Map 180 including prescribed herbal drugs. Their
p249; Old Fort Rd; h9am-6pm). one room museum (admission 5) displays
medicinal herbs, clinical thangkas and minerals
Harish MUSIC STORE (lapis lazuli, tiger eye etc) used in making pre-
(Map p246; Changspa Rd) Sells local and cious pills. Its 800m south of the bus station.
Western musical instruments. Oxygen Bar (Map p249; KC Garden Restaurant;
Gol Market MARKET per min 20) Breath pure oxygen to relieve
(Ladakh Ecological Development Group; Map p249; altitude sickness, or just for the buzz.
Old Rd; h9am-5.30pm) A good first place to SBI (Main Bazaar; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri, to
1pm Sat) The upstairs exchange desk can be
look for prosaic items of cheap clothing
chaotic and long queues are common at the
plus bags and limited camping supplies. 24-hour ATM outside.
Moti Market MARKET Tourist office (Map p249; %253462; www
(Map p246) Bigger than Gol market but less .ladakhtourism.in; Ibex Rd; h10am-4pm Mon-
central. Sat) General info, listings and very approximate
maps.
Leh Ling BOOKSHOP
(Ladakh Ecological Development Group; Map
p249; Main Bazaar) 8 Getting There & Away
Air
Otdan BOOKSHOP
Delhi-Leh ights rarely cost under 11,500 in
(Ladakh Ecological Development Group; Map
summer but in winter 4000 is possible. Unusu-
p249; Zangsti Rd)
ally, Lehs airline oces sometimes undercut
Book Worm BOOKSHOP online prices.
(Ladakh Ecological Development Group; Map Air India (Map p246; %252076; Fort Rd;
p249; Old Fort Rd) Buys and sells secondhand h10am-1pm & 2-4.30pm) LehDelhi (11,661),
volumes. via Srinagar (7354, Wednesday) or via Jammu
(8053, Monday and Friday). Fly to Jammu for
Dharamsala.
8! Information Jet Airways (Map p249;%250999; Main
Noticeboards all over town have adverts for Bazaar; h10am-1pm & 2-5pm) LehDelhi daily
tours, treks and activities. in August. Frequency drops gradually to twice
Dozens of internet cafes all charge 90 per weekly in February.
hour. Connection speeds vary randomly even at
Kingfisher (www.flykingfisher.com) LehDelhi
the same place and power cuts can prove an-
daily in summer.
noying. Theres a wide choice along Changspa
Lane, around Dolphin Bakery (Fort Rd) and near Bus & Shared Jeep
Il Forno (Main Bazaar). Some bigger hotels oer
KARGIL Bus (300, 10 hours) departs 4.30am
wi- but virtually all charge extra and coverage
rarely stretches beyond the lobby. from the Polo Ground (Map p246). Faster shared
jeeps (per seat/vehicle 600/4500) leave
 around 7am from outside Hotel Siachen (Old Bus tion around 4.30am. More comfortable HPTDC
260 Station). Make arrangements one day before. buses (1500, two days) leave at 5am from
SRINAGAR J&K SRTC bus (707, 19 hours) from outside J&K Bank (Ibex Rd, Leh) and must be pre-
main bus station (Map p246) at 3pm. Shared booked at HPTDC (Map p249; %94518460071;
jeeps (front/back seats 1500/1300, 15 hours) Fort Rd; h9.30am-1pm & 2-7pm), upstairs oppo-
depart from the Old Bus Station around 5pm. site Chopsticks. Jeeps take at least 22 hours. See
Book by 8am that morning to get a good seat. boxed text, p274, for details. The route is gorgeous
LehSrinagar road closed November to May. but strenuous so you might prefer to y one way
MANALI J&K SRTC buses (ordinary/deluxe (to/from Delhi) rather than doing it twice.
585/850, two days) depart Lehs main bus sta- For other destinations, see below.

BUSES TO/FROM LEH

The following use Lehs main bus station, 700m south of the town centre. The short-
est walk to get there from town uses a toilet-scented footpath starting opposite Hotel
Dragon. Alternatively cut through the stepped bazaar from Friendship Gate.

DESTINATION FARE () DURATION DEPARTURES

Alchi 60 3hr 8am (return 3pm)
Chemrey 35 1hr use Sakti buses
JAMMU & K ASHMIR (INCLUDING L ADAKH) L A DA K H

Choglamsar 8 15min frequent

Chiling 55 2hr 9am Wed & Sun (return 1pm)
Chitkan* 164 8hr 8am Tue, Fri, Sun (return Wed, Sat, Mon)
Dha* 151 7hr 9am both directions
Diskit/Hunder** 116 6hr 6am Tue, Sat (return Sun, Wed)
Hemis 40 2hr 9.30am (return noon)
Hemis Shukpachan* 78 4hr 2pm (return 8.30am) via Yangthang
Keylong 475 17hr 4.30am
Khalsi* 88 4hr 3pm each way
Lamayuru 150 5hr use Chitkan or Srinagar buses
Likir Gompa 50 2hr 4pm (return 6.30am)
Matho 20 40min 9am, 2pm, 5pm
Pangong Tso 150 8hr 6.30am Sat using Chushul-Merak bus
Phey 13 30min noon, 4.30pm (return 8am, 1pm)
Phyang 20 40min 7am, 8am, 9am, 3pm, 4pm
Rumtse* 72 3hr 4pm, alternate days
Sakti 40 1hr 8.15am, noon, then half-hourly till 5pm
(return frequent 7am-9am, 12.30pm, 3.30pm)

Shang Sumdo 50 3hr 3pm (return 8am)

Shey 15 25min use Thiksey or Sakti buses
Spituk 10 15min one or two hourly till 7pm
Stakna 15 40min Thiksey buses terminate nearby
Stok 15 30min 8am, 2pm, 4.30pm (return 9am, 3pm, 5.30pm)
Thiksey 20 30min half-hourly 7.30am-6.30pm
Tia* 85 4hr noon
Timishgan* 78 4hr 11am (return 8am)
Wanla* 111 5hr 8.30am Tue, Thu, Sun

* LBOC Bus (%252792), **J&K SRTC (%252085), other minibus (%253262)

 TAXI & CHARTER-JEEPS FROM LEH 261

DESTINATION ONE WAY () RETURN ()

Alchi 1330 1729
Basgo 819 1064
Chiling 1767 2287
Hemis 948 1232
Kargil 4709 6552
Keylong 11,000 14,300
Lamayuru 2579 3353
Likir 1125 1463
Matho 663 862
Manali 13,547 17,611
Nimmu 737 958
Phey 327 425
Phyang 511 664

L ADAKH&8 K ASHMIR (INCLUDING L ADAKH) L8 E H

JAMMU
Shang Sumdo 1175 1558
Shey 279 363
Spituk 204 266
Srinagar 9773 12,700
Stakna 686 892
Stok Palace 376 492
Sumur 3465 4504
Thiksey 442 574
Wanla 2562 3330

Combining destinations reduces the total price, eg: LehStokMathoStaknaLeh 1251.

Taxi & Charter-Jeeps

Published in an annually updated booklet, fares Motorcycle
(p261) are the same for taxis and charter-jeeps Several companies along Music School Rd
and include reasonable stopping time en route and Main Bazaar (west) hire motorcycles for
for photos/visits. Longer waits are charged between 500 and 800 per day. Double-check
(160/650/1251 per hour/half-day/full day), insurance and ttings.
extra overnight stops add 350. Unplanned
diversions from the agreed routing can cause
unexpected diculties so plan carefully. 8 Getting Around
INDUS VALLEY Monastery villages make inter- TO/FROM AIRPORT The airports well-
esting day trips: engage a driver at one of Lehs guarded terminal is at Km430 of the Leh-Spituk
three main taxi-van stands or add sights as extra
stops to longer jeep tours.
JEEP TOURS For multiday jeep hire, agencies PETROL IN LADAKH
can put together a fare-sharing group, organis-
ing permits, vehicle and driver. Five per jeep Ladakhs only petrol stations are at
is optimal for comfort versus expense. Most Leh, Choglamsar, Serthi (Km440.5,
popular excursions are Pangong Tso or the near Karu), Diksit, Spituk, Phyang junc-
Nubra/Shyok Valleys. Book at least 24 hours tion, Khaltse, Mulbekh and Kargil. Even
ahead. those dont always have anything to sell
so, if driving, carry plenty of spare fuel.
 highway, 4km south of centre. Taxi transfers Commanding a ne valley panorama
262 cost 150/190 to central Leh/Changspa. Pass- around 2km north of the palace beside the
ing public minibuses to town cost only 5 but Leh road, isolated Hotel Skittsal (%242051;
are usually packed full. www.skittsal.com; s/d 1500/2180) has a neo-
TAXI Lehs little micro-van taxis charge from traditional facade and giant Buddha seat-
75 per hop. Flagging down rides rarely works; ed in the garden. However corridors are
go to a taxi stand to make arrangements. straight from The Shining and dated rooms
have rucked carpets.

South of Leh MATHO

% 01982 Sakya-Buddhist Matho Gompa (%246085;
To visit Stok and Matho and then return to admission 20) is perched on a colourfully
Leh via Thiksey and Shey, youll need a ve- stratied ridge above Matho village. Most
hicle thats small enough to cross the very of the early-15th-century monastery has
narrow Indus River bridge at Stakna. been replaced by more modern structures
in recent years and the top-oor museum is
STOK only one room. However, its still well worth
Ladakhs former royal family now keeps a low the bumpy trip from Leh for the scenery
prole life, dividing its time between a pri- en route and the exceptional valley views.
vate mansion in Manali and the stately Stok During the monasterys famous Matho
Palace (admission 50; h9am-1pm & 2-7pm May- Nagrang festival (February/March), a pair
JAMMU & K ASHMIR (INCLUDING L ADAKH) L A DA K H

Oct). Vaguely potala-like and with colourful of monk-oracles performs daring physical
window frames, the three-storey palace is challenges while eectively blindfolded by
undoubtedly photogenic despite a giant tele- mop-wigs, seeing only through the fear-
communication tower that looms directly some eyes painted on their chests. They
behind. Inside, the handful of rooms that are also engage in ritual acts of self-mutilation
opened to visitors display family treasures, and make predictions for the coming year.
including the queens ancient turquoise-and-
gold yub-jhur (crown) and a sword that the SPITUK & ZINGCHEN
kings oracle managed to bend into a knot, Founded in the late 14th century as See-Thub
Uri Gellerstyle. The palaces attractively ap- (Exemplary) Monastery, impressive Spituk
pointed cafe (tea 15, sandwiches 60) has open Gompa (admission 20) is incongruously
terrace seating with gorgeous views. perched overlooking the end of Leh airport:
Across from the palace, a short alley leads dont photograph the militarily sensitive
to the 350-year-old Stok Abagon (suggested runway soldiers are watching. The gompas
donation 20), the decrepit former home of multiple mud-brick buildings tumble mer-
the royal physician (bring a torch). rily down a steep hillock towards Spituk vil-
Stoks peaceful main lane winds up past lage on the Indus riverbank. Overlooked by
whitewashed farmhouses, crumbling old the gilt-roofed Skudung Lhakhang, a pho-
stupas and, after 1.4km, bypasses the mod- togenic courtyard leads to the very colourful
est Stok Gompa, where royal oracles make Dukhang containing a yellow-hatted statue
predictions about the future during Stoks of Tsongkhapa (13571419) who spread Ge-
important Guru Tse-Chu festival (Febru- lukpa Buddhism. A Buddha statue on the
ary/March). Another kilometre south, bus- other side of the rooms main image suppos-
es from Leh terminate at a pair of simple edly incorporates an odd relic: Tsongkhapas
food shacks known as the trekking point. nose-bleed. On the very top of the gompa hill
Ten minutes walk upstream from here on is a three-tiered latho (spirit shrine) and the
the path towards Rumbak, the villages last small Palden Lama temple hiding veiled
house is the misnamed Hotel Kangri (%20 deities in a smoke-blackened rear section.
1009; per person half-board 350), a very au- For treks, the pretty two-house oasis
thentic homestay with wall murals and a of Zingchen (Zinchan, Jingchian) makes
full-blown Ladakhi kitchen. a much better starting point than Spituk
Along the main road about 200m north village, as the rst 10km of the Spituk
of the trekking point, Yarsta Guest House Zingchen road is a sun-blistered masochis-
(%242087; d half-board 700) is set in a garden tic slog. A LehZingchen taxi ride (1300)
amid poplar trees. Two top-oor rooms with should allow stops at Spituk Gompa and at
beds and plenty of windows share a clean, photogenic spots in the monumentally stark
tiled bathroom. canyonlands that start 6km before Zingchen.
 Zingchen has a homestay, campsite and known smiths is wizened old Ishay Namgyal
parachute cafe. Theres no bus but, with a whose house has a sizeable forge area in its 263
little patience, hitching a (paid) ride back to yard. Finding the place takes you past some
Leh is often possible with vehicles that ar- timeless old mud-brick buildings with a ser-
rive to drop o trekkers. rated dry-peak backdrop.
If trekking into the Markha Valley,
RUMBAK & YURUTSE continue 4km further south to the river
Roadless Rumbak (4050m) is a magical vil- conuence then cross the Zanskar on a
lage with a high proportion of closely packed dangling-basket ropeway contraption. A dis-
traditional homes, almost all of which oer puted road bridge, planned to replace this,
homestay beds. Its around three hours river- remains half-built.
side hike from Zingchen. The route is mostly
easy to follow given a decent map: where in MARKHA VALLEY
doubt, follow donkey droppings and cross Very well trodden tracks between diuse road-
any bridge you see. At a lone summer para- less villages make this Ladakhs most popular
chute cafe take the left valley (half an hour) trekking area. There are fort ruins at Markha
to Rumbak, or continue for one hour to Yu- and Hankar and several seasonal parachute
rutse (4200m), an eerie one-house hamlet/ cafes. Homestays exist in virtually every settle-
homestay anked by little stupas. Yurutse ment but before hiking across the Kongmaru
has a dribbling, drinkable spring and en- La (5050m), those without camping gear will
joys a perfectly framed view of Stok Kangri need to spend a night at Nimaling tent-camp.

L ADAKH&8 K ASHMIR (INCLUDING L ADAKH) W

JAMMU
(6121m) through a cleft valley opposite. From Nimaling allow nine hours walking to
Next day from Yurutse you could trek Shang Sumdo via Chokdo (seven hours). Both
across the 4920m Ganda La in around six places have homestays and theres an 8am bus
hours to Shingo village (two farms, both to Leh from Shang Sumdo. Allow at least ve
homestays), possibly continuing three hours days for the ChilingNimalingShang Sumdo
further to Kaya/Skiu in the Markha Val- loop, including transport to/from Leh. Or
ley. Alternatively from Rumbak, a similarly simply explore the valley out-and-back from
strenuous trek crosses the equally high Stok Chiling. Nicholas Eakins full-colour Markha
La (Namling La) pass and reaches Stok in Valley Trekking and Homestay Guide (450)
around seven hours (turn left and descend is useful.
at the second mini-pass). If theres cloud on
either pass dont hike without a guide.
West of Leh
LOWER ZANSKAR VALLEY
PHYANG
For a feast of stark, colourful geology, turn
o the old Leh-Nimmu road at Km400 then Pretty Phyang is an emerald splash of tree-
take the riverside ledge road up the deep hemmed barley elds layered for miles up
Zanskar River canyon. a side valley with stupendous views back
The two house hamlet of Sumdha Do, towards the snow-topped pyramid of Stok
8 EST OF LEH

where three- to ve-day treks from Lamay- Kangri. The white-and-ochre Phyang Gom-
uru, Wanla or Hinju typically culminate, has pa (admission 25) photogenically dominates
a summer tea-tent and the loveable Tashi the village, its west wing currently under full-
Khangsar homestay. scale reconstruction following earthquake
At rst glance tiny Chiling seems limited damage. Behind, dzo graze their meadows
to a teahouse and the boxy shop-cafe Kong- and a beautiful lane follows a rock escarp-
ma Restaurant, where trekkers should pay ment past traditional homes to Phyangs
the Hemis National Park fee (20 per only accommodation (1.5km), the delight-
day). The village proper is on a fertile pla- ful Hidden North Guest House (%226007;
teau above to the right. All six families here Phyang Tsakma; www.hiddennorth.com; campsite/
oer homestays. site & tent hire 100/150, d 800, without bathroom
Chiling village was founded by the families 500). Set in a mountain-facing sunower
of Nepali copper craftsmen. They originally garden, unfussy rooms are immaculately
arrived in Ladakh to build Shey Palaces clas- maintained and room 8 has Stok Kangri
sic Buddha statue and never went home. views. You might be tempted to stay awhile.
The handicraft continues, though today typi- Meals are available, ltered drinking water
cal products are roughly turned-out heart- is free and o-beat treks can be organised.
shaped spoons (around 150). One of the best
 264 Around Leh
Warish Hargam
Turtuk Chalunka

Nub
Li Bogdang
ne Ensa

ra
of Gompa
Cont Ummaru

Ri ver
rol Changmar
Charasa
Dha Dha-Hanu Thoise Air Base Tegar
Biama Skuru

Hanu-Do Hunder Diskit

Sanjak
Camel Trek
To Kargil Starting Point; Diskit
Ind

(40km); Sand Dunes Gompa

u

Srinagar Namika La
s R

(245km) (3760m) Skurbuchan Old Diskit

vei

Chitkan La
r

Domkhar
Mulbekh ak d
Khangral Takmachik Tia
Timishgan h
Shargol Fotu La Police Hemis Shukpachan
Bodh
Checkpoint Khalsi Ang Yangthang
Gompa Kharbu NH1D (4147m)
Lamayuru Nurla Rizong
Hiniskut Likir Gompa
Photang Likir
Prinkiti La Uletokpo
(3750m) Wanla In Saspol Basgo
JAMMU & K ASHMIR (INCLUDING L ADAKH) L A DA K H

Kanji Va dus Taru

Phyang
Kanji La Phanjila Hinju
lle
y Alchi Nimmu
(5255m) Honupatta NH1D
Konze La (5040m) (5290m) Phey
(4950m) Sumdha Chungun
To Kargil
(120km) Sisir La Askuta Sumdo Spituk
(4850m) Chinmu Sumdha Do
Rangdum Photoksar Dung Dung Zingchen
La (4820m) Stok
Chiling Yurutse
Rangdum Ganda La Rumbak
Gompa (4920m)
Za Singge La Kaya
nsk skar Shingo Stok Kangri
ar (5050m) Zan r (6121m)
M

Skiu
Rive
ar
kh

Pensi La Lingshet Nerak

a

St ng
(4401m)
R
Ri

Ra
ve

a
ok e
ng
r

Nerak La e Markha
(5000m)
Umlung Hankar
Hanumil Shing La Tilat
Sto

(4430m) Sumdo
d

River Pidmo Zangla Nimaling

Cha Cha Rubrang La
La (4950m) (5020m)
Pishu
Phey
Ating
Sani Karsha
Zongkul
Gompa Tungri
Stongde
HI
M Padum LADAKH
AL
AY
A Bardan r
ve
RA Ri
NG Mune ap
ar
E Raru Ts

BASGO stubs of once-great citadel walls, along with

Capital of lower Ladakh until the Ladakhi a largely derelict mud-walled palace and
kingdoms united in 1470, Basgos ancient two brilliant temples (admission 20). The
chortens whisper hints of its antiquity. Ris- upper Chamba Gompa has spectacularly
ing above the village on a surreal collection restored mural work covering walls and ceil-
of eroded earthen pinnacles are remnant ings around a cartoonlike two-storey statue
 0 20 km LIKIR
0 10 miles
Surveying a grand section of mountain 265
No foreigners allowed ridge, lower Likir has better value accom-
past this point modation than at Alchi, making it a possible
Panamik starting point for visiting the region. Around
4km above the main village, Likir Gompa
Pinchamik (h8am-1pm & 2-6pm summer, 10am-1pm & 2-4pm
Zamskhang Palace winter) very photogenically covers a hillside
Samstemling Gompa with archetypal Ladakhi buildings. Though
Sumur Old Town founded in 1065, its current incarnation
Sumur
Tirit originated in the 15th century. The rst
prayer hall to the right on entry has seats
allocated for both the Dalai Lama and his
Khalsar Nubra Valley brother, Likirs honorary head lama. After
Khardung
two more colourful prayer halls you climb
Rongo to the crammed-full, one-room museum
North Pullu (admission 20). The gompa is backed by a
Army Camp
Khardung La
Shyok River giant gilded 20th-century Maitreya statue
(5602m) Agham that looks impressive from afar, less so once
South Pullu
you notice its peeling gold paint.
Army Camp For great photos of the gompa complex

L ADAKH&8 K ASHMIR (INCLUDING L ADAKH) W

JAMMU
framed between barley elds and old chor-
Leh Ra tens, descend for 10 minutes on the rocky
ng To Pangong
e Tso (60km) footpath signed to the Old Likir Guesthouse.
Choglamsar There are half a dozen accommodation
Takthog choices in lower Likir. Designed vaguely like
Shey Takthog Gompa Chang La
(5289m) a Chinese temple, Hotel Lhukhil (%227137;
Thiksey
www.hotellhukhil.com; d 1200-1800) has paint-
Sakti ed wall motifs, en suite bathrooms and
Matho Sakti Fortress
Stakna Ruins mountain views from most rooms. Theres
Stakna Chemrey
Gompa oodles of outdoor sitting space and rates in-
Karu clude breakfast and dinner.
Hemis
Martseling
Norboo Lagams Chow Guest House
Shang Permits required
Sumdo Upshi beyond this point (%227145; without bathroom d 200, dinner/break-
Shang fast 60/50) has compact but new, neat rooms
Gompa Chokdo Miru
hidden at the back of a farm-garden o the
Kongmaru
Gya Yangthang road. Note that the only toilet is
In

La (5050m) in the traditional house behind where theres

du

Rumtse
s

Riv also an ornate Ladaki kitchen-dining room.

8 EST OF LEH

e r Lotos Guest House (%227177; per per-

Taglang La son incl meals 300), almost opposite Hotel
(5359m)
Lhukhil, is relatively new and neat for a
homestay. It has decent beds, dorm style in
Tso Kar two rooms, but the toilet is in the yard.
Directly above the gompa are two home-
Horlamkong La
(4712m) stay-guesthouses in traditional homesteads,
To Korzok
each including breakfast and dinner in a
Pang
(Tso Moriri) wonderfully authentic Ladakhi dining room.
To Keylong (274km); Chhuma Guest House (%9906973732; per per-
Manali (394km)
son 200) has great views from two perfectly
located if tatty mattress-on-oor rooms. Five
of Maitreya, whose expression embodies minutes walk beyond, Dolker Guest House
the spirit of detachment. Within the palace (%227141; per person 300) is similar but has
complex is the darker and even more atmo- real beds in the best, top-corner room.
spheric Sar-Zung Temple hosting another SHAM
outsized Maitreya statue and a library of A few kilometres north of the main NH1D,
wrapped scriptures. the parallel Sham route links several pic-
 turesque Ladakhi villages between Likir seats and photos of local scenes. Rooms are
266 and Timishgan. The stark arid scenery here reasonably well appointed, albeit with oc-
reaches some grand Nevada-style crescen- casional damp patches and soft mattresses.
dos and the route is used as a homestay Deluxe rooms have balcony areas with mon-
baby trek to walkers who dont want to astery views.
cross major passes. Daily bus connections
mean you could do any one-day section then ALCHI
give up as you please. However, be aware Central Alchi is 4km down a dead-end
that most of the trek is a road walk (only spur lane that leaves the Leh-Kargil road at
Hemis-Shukpachan to Ang is roadless) and Km370. This rural village has become a re-
theres minimal shade so hike early before gional tourism magnet thanks to the famous
the sun is high. Chhoskhor Temple Complex (foreigner/Indi-
In timeless little Yangthang, sturdy old an 50/20; h8am-1pm & 2-6pm), reached by an
houses t together, forming an architectur- obvious pedestrian lane lined by guesthous-
ally cohesive square around a tiny shrine. es, souvenir peddlers and a German Bakery.
Set in barley elds backed by a jagged ho- Founded in the 11th century by Great Trans-
rizon of saw-toothed mountains, the village lator Lotsava Ringchen Zangpo, the temple
has four traditional if basic homestays (per complex (no photography allowed) looks
person 300) with oor mattresses and meals relatively uninteresting from outside but
included. Padma Guest House (%08991- interior murals are considered the crown-
922129) has ne views, its corner dorm-room ing glory of Ladakhs Indo-Tibetan art. Visits
JAMMU & K ASHMIR (INCLUDING L ADAKH) L A DA K H

overlooking the chasm that descends steeply start with Sumrtsek Temple fronted by a
to Rizong, a two-hour hike when the trail wooden porch whose carving style is very
hasnt been washed away. much Indian rather than Tibetan. Inside,
Central Hemis Shukpachan is a curi- murals cover all three levels with hundreds
ously medieval little knot of houses clus- of little Buddhas. Oversized wooden statues
tered around a central rocky hillock. Around of Maitreya, Manjushri and Avalokitesvara
1km beyond at the villages northwest edge burst their heads through into the inacces-
is a famous grove of ancient juniper trees sible upper storey. Next along, Vairocana
beside the footpath leading towards Ang/Ti- Temple is impressive for its mandalas:
mishgan (a half-day walk). There are nearly as antique murals in the rear chamber, as
a dozen widely scattered guesthouses and contemporary exercises in coloured sand
homestays. Its 10km west of Yangthang by at the front. In the Lotsa Temple, Lotsava
a painfully bumpy jeep track. Ringchen Zangpo himself appears as the
The former co-capital of 14th-century slightly reptilian gure to the left behind
lower Ladakh, Timishgan (Tingmosgan, the central Buddha cabinet. Beneath him, a
Temisgam) sits at the centre of a very row of comical-faced gures underline the
large, green Y-shaped valley stretching sev- importance of taking nothing too seriously.
eral kilometres to Ang (northeast) and Tia The Manjushri Temple enshrines a joyfully
(northwest). It was here in 1864 that Ladakh colourful four-sided statue of Manjushri
signed treaties with Tibet allowing for for- (Buddha of Wisdom).
malised trade missions. In summer Alchi has nearly a dozen ac-
The mostly contemporary main mon- commodation choices. Many close from
astery sits on a high, central rocky crag mid-September. Heritage Guest House
climbed by a large remnant section of for- (%227125; dikit1920@gmail.com; d 400-800,
tress curtain-wall. There are two more small without bathroom 250-300) right at the exit of
gompas in Tia which has an architecturally the monastery complex, has an impressive
interesting central core. Central Timishgan carved facade that leads through to a mar-
and parts of Ang also have several ne old ble oored interior courtyard, o which are
traditional Ladakhi houses oering basic some of Alchis best-value rooms.
homestays (incl food 200-400). Around 1km The friendly, colourful Choksor Guest
northeast of Timishgans central junction, House (%227084; r 500-600), with shrine
the Namra Hotel (%229033; www.namrahotel. room and open roof-terrace, is set in a ower
com; s/d/deluxe 1600/2200/2450) is far and garden 800m back towards Leh from central
away the Sham routes top accommodation Alchi. Next door the sadly derelict, once-
option. Set in relaxing parasol-decked gar- grand Lonpo House was formerly home to
dens, attractive common areas have bench the Ladakhi Kings local tax collector.
 Hotel Potala (%205030; downstairs/upstairs bridge where there are teahouses and single
d 350/600) is fair value and central, with en guesthouse. 267
suite bathrooms set in a small garden and Dha (pop 250) is a centre of the Brokpa
hollyhocks enlivening gravel sitting areas. people (see boxed text, right). Though out-
At Lotsava Summer Camp (%227129; d numbered these days by one pen kids, a few
300-500) close-packed bedded tents share Brokpa people still wear pearly button ear
a bathroom block. Prices are reduced if you decorations and traditional hats, with older
forgo the by-bucket option of hot water. women tying their hair in long triple-stranded
braids reminiscent of knotted dreadlocks.
ULETOKPO & RIZONG The bus from Leh sputters to an unexpect-
From pretty Uletokpo village, an erosion- ed halt at a middle-of-nowhere lay-by, from
prone lane leaves the Leh-Khalsi highway where Dha village is a 10-minute walk via the
and climbs 6km along a narrow gorge. It small footpath immediately opposite. Amid
dead-ends at the photogenic 19th-century Dhas tomato gardens, apricot orchards and
Rizong Gompa (admission by donation; h7am- huddles of rough stone barns youll pass
1pm & 1.30-6pm), stepped handsomely up an mud-oored Skybapa Guest House (dm/d
amphitheatre of rocky cli. A steep, some- 200/400). Its simple with shared squat toi-
times treacherous footpath continues up to lets across the yard, but a great feature is the
Yangthang. outdoor dining area shaded by a vast grape-
Uletokpo has three tourist camps. The vine that thrives in Dhas unexpectedly warm
best value if least manicured is West Ladakh microclimate. Friendly owners make their

L ADAKH&8 K ASHMIR (INCLUDING L ADAKH) W

JAMMU
Camp (%9419178555; d 1500) where octago- own organic wine.
nal bedded tents in an apricot orchard come With linguistic help, other homestays can
with shower, toilet and clamshell glass wash- be arranged in Dha or in less striking Bia-
basins. Add 1000 for all meals. Uley Ethnic ma, 3km back towards Leh, where theres
Resort (%227208) has many overpriced tent also an overpriced roadside tent-camp.
rooms but is building sturdy new river-view A two-day Leh-Dha return jeep-excursion
cabins with solar-heated bathrooms. costs 4631 per vehicle. The three-day circuit
KHALSI LehDhaChitkanKargilLamayuruLeh
Comparatively bustling Khalsi has shops, costs 10,200. Foreigners are not allowed to
taxis, PCO phone booths, two basic restau- use the DhaBattalikKargil road.
rant-hotels (d 500) and several other eat- YAPOLA VALLEY
eries including relatively convivial Samyas Several classic villages that were previously
Garden Restaurant (mains 50-140, rice 40). only accessible to trekkers have recently be-
Taxis charge around 700 to Lamayuru or come accessible with new (if often washed-
Phanjila. Hitch-hiking westbound, its gen- out) jeep roads.
erally easier to start from the checkpoint Perched above Wanla village on a tow-
2km west. ering knife-edge ridge is the tiny, medi-
8 EST OF LEH

DHA-HANU eval Wanla Gompa (www.achiassociation.org;

Foreigners with prearranged permits (ap-
ply in Leh) may take the lovely, increasingly
LOST TRIBES
dramatic Indus Valley road northwest of
Khalsi as far as Dha. Just before reaching the The facial features of the Brokpa (aka
walnut-growing village of Domkhar, look Drokpa or Dard, people of the pas-
across the river for ne views of terraced tures) have led to speculation that the
Takmachik. Picturesque Skurbuchan vil- tribe was descended from Alexander
lage is topped by a rickety gompa-fort over- the Greats invasion force or even a
looking the Indus canyon. Scattered ancient lost tribe of Israel. However, based on
petroglyphs are inscribed on brown, time- their dialect, they are thought to have
polished roadside rocks (eg at Km55.9) but immigrated to Dha-Hanu from Gilgit/
theyre small, hard to spot and some are Baltistan (just across what is now the
latter-day imitations. From Sanjak a side IndiaPakistan border) around a mil-
road cuts through a sharp gorge to Chitkan. lennium ago. Some Brokpas still follow
Kargil-bound shared jeeps (150) via Chit- an animist faith that incorporates
kan depart at 6.30am from near Sanjaks elements of the ancient Bon religion,
precursor of Tibetan Buddhism.
 admission 20; hdawn-dusk), anked by tower Gompa (admission 50). Behind glass within
268 remnants of a now-destroyed 14th-century the gompas main prayer hall is a tiny cave
fortress. The monasterys carved porch is in which 11th-century mystic Naropa medi-
reminiscent of Alchis and its spookily dark tated. Before that, legend claims, this whole
prayer-chamber contains three large statues area had been the bottom of a deep lake
backed by ancient smoke-blackened murals whose waters receded miraculously thanks
and naive statuettes. If hiking in from Lama- to the powerful prayers of Buddhist saint
yuru youll pass close to some desultory hot Arahat Nimagung. Sculpted by time into
springs 4km west of Wanla but they arent curiously draped forms, the sands of that
worth a special excursion. Hidden Rong- former lake-bed now form moonland land-
stak Guest House (per person incl meals 400) scapes beside the new Leh road around 1km
is the most attractive of three homestays in east of town.
Wanla proper but the areas most convivial Lamayuru is traditionally the starting
accommodation choice is the very well kept point for some of Ladakhs greatest treks (to
Tarchit Camp (%254866, 9419243601; per Zanskar, Chiling etc). Although new roads
person incl meals 450), 2km beyond Wanla mean that walkers can now choose to reach
beside the Phanjila road. There are home- advance trailheads (Honupatta/Photoksar,
stay mattress spaces in a traditional family Hinju etc) by jeep, Lamayuru remains the
dining room, one new private room and a most hopeful place for organising your own
sizeable camping area (100) with separate packhorses/donkeys (330 per day includ-
horse-tethering. Singey La Camp (per person ing driver), sometimes possible within a day
JAMMU & K ASHMIR (INCLUDING L ADAKH) L A DA K H

100) at Phanjila has a garden restaurant or two. Guesthouses can help or ask Royal
and three mat-on-oor sleeping spaces. Caravan Trek (%9469384434) at the bus
At the top of pretty Hinju village theres stand who can also arrange jeep charters
a recommended homestay with traditional and, in extremis, currency exchange (ter-
Ladakhi kitchen. A fabulous two-day trek to rible rates).
Sumdha Do on the Chiling road can be done
as a homestay trek (guide essential) if youre !4!Sleeping & Eating
prepared to do a long, strenuous rst day, Lamayuru only gets electricity from 7.30pm
crossing the 4950m Konze La for breathtak- to 11pm and some guesthouse rooms lack
ing views then sleeping at Sumdho Chinmu. powerpoints. Accommodation prices will
South of Phanjila a seriously rough jeep probably rise if/when Kashmir stabilises
track follows the spectacular Yapola Gorge and transit tourist numbers recover.
to its fork then veers right to Honupatta, a Hotel Moonland HOTEL $
tight-knit village with three basic homestays (%224551; d 600-800) Lamayurus best hotel
tucked away in the upper section. Mudslides is set in a garden at the rst hairpin, 400m
often block vehicular trac on the track be- beyond the bus stop. Rooms oer little in
yond which climbs the 4805m Sisir-La for terms of decor but have tiled bathrooms and
sensational views of ridges and rocky spires hot showers while the agreeable restaurant
before descending to Photoksar. Most has postcard-perfect views back towards the
Zanskar-bound treks follow this jeep road monastery complex. Limited menu.
but, on foot, its reputedly possible to hike
an alternative route down the Yapola Gorges Dragon Guest House GUESTHOUSE $
left fork via Askuta camp, at least when wa- (%224501; d 500, without bathroom 300) Sim-
ter levels are low. Finding a suitably experi- pler rooms are a decent size in a big, clean
enced guide might prove hard. traditional house with olde-worlde Lada-
khi kitchen. A few newer rooms come with
LAMAYURU geyser-equipped private bathroom and the
% 01982 / ELEV 3390M
pleasant garden restaurant serves nonguests
Set among mountain-backed badlands, low-
too.
paced Lamayuru is one of Ladakhs most
memorable villages and an ideal place to Tharpaling Guest House GUESTHOUSE $
break the KargilLeh journey. (%224516; d 300, without bathroom 200, half-
board 500/400) Ever-smiling matriarch Tsir-
1!Sights & Activities
! ing Yandol gives this place a jolly family feel,
Picturesque homes huddle around a crum-
serving communal dinners in a dining room
bling hilltop thats pitted with caves and
thats new but with traditional-style painted
topped by the ultra-photogenic Yungdrung
motifs.
Hotel Niranjana MONASTERY HOTEL $ nir shop or, if your altitude acclimatisation
(%224555; r without bathroom 400-600) The allows, get dizzy clambering ve minutes to 269
main selling point is its location right be- a viewpoint through a chaos of prayer ags
side the monastery complex, ideal for those and boulders. Beyond Khardung La, as the
attending 5.30am prayers. Above a dark, road descends northbound alongside a gur-
cavernous restaurant, rooms are bland but gling stream, keep your eyes open for Hima-
comfy enough, many with ne views. Clean layan marmots and grazing dzo. Permits are
shared bathrooms have geysers. checked at army camps at Km24 and Km53.
!8! Getting There & Away KHARDUNG
Daily KargilLeh buses briey stop in Lamay- The yak-herding village of Khardung (Km71)
uru sometime between 9am and 10am in both is a two-centred shelf of barley elds and
directions. ChitkanLeh buses stop eastbound scattered Ladakhi buildings set within a
around 11am Monday, Wednesday and Saturday. jaw-dropping bowl of arid crags, giant tiger-
Khalsi has more choice of buses. paw blus and the distantly glimpsed teeth
WEST OF LAMAYURU of snow-mountains. Tiny roadside shop-
From Lamayuru, the NH1D road zigzags up cafes (dhal 20) dish up delicious dhal while
towards Iguanodon-back spires that tower Cho Guest House (per person 400) oers
impressively over the Fotu La (4147m). At mattresses on the oor of a large room with
Km281 a rough 12km spur road leads to Kan- en suite squat toilet. Prices include break-
ji with its small but very historic Chuchik- fast, dinner and tea.

L ADAKH&8 K ASHMIR (INCLUDING L ADAKH) N

JAMMU
Zhal Temple (www.achiassociation.org). After Beyond Khardung, the road descends
Hansukot (Heniskot; Km282), with its tourist through Grand Canyon scenery towards
bungalow and vague fortress ruins, a com- the impressively wide Shyok Valley, where
paratively wide, fertile valley extends as far soaring red-brown cli-mountains rise from
as Khangral (Km268) where passports are the gleaming grey-white sand of the ood-
checked beside the Chitkan-Dha road junc- plain.
tion. The NH1D then crosses the Namika La DISKIT
(3760m pass) and descends into the glorious ELEV 3144M
Wakha Valley continuing to Kargil via Mul- Schizophrenic Diskit has two very dierent
bekh (p240) and Shargol (p241). centres. Nubras biggest settlement, Cen-
tral Diskit, is a comparatively unattractive
place by Ladakhs very high standards, but
Nubra Valley it has the areas bus/taxi stand, a useful
% 01980 bazaar, a tourist reception centre and
The deep valleys of the Shyok and Nubra Riv- the regions only petrol pump (1km north
ers oer tremendous yet accessible scenery towards Hunder). Follow the bazaar east to
(permit required) with green oasis villages a small roundabout then turn right to nd
surrounded by thrillingly stark scree slopes, the power-cut prone NI Internet cafe (per
8 U B R A VA L L E Y

boulder elds and harsh arid mountains. hr 100).

Visiting from Leh by chartered jeep, includ- This lane leads 1.5km further south re-
ing Panamik, Diskit, Hunder and everything joining the main road at Old Diskit.
in between, costs 6931 per vehicle (or 7331
if you add Ensa Gompa). While its possible !1!Sights
to do all that in two days, lengthy view stops Old Diskit is a hamlet full of prayer wheels,
are the main attraction so taking a third day mani walls and clusters of old stupas with
is recommended and costs no extra. Youll a collapsing little old temple and a derelict
certainly need that extra day (or more) if Ladakhi mansion-palace.
adding in Turtuk (around 3000 extra). Directly above Old Diskit, a 2km spaghet-
ti of hairpins winds up to the 17th-century
KHARDUNG LA Diskit Gompa (admission 20), a brilliant
ELEV 5602M
Zigzagging up a stark bare-rock mountain jumble of Tibetan-style box buildings piled
from Leh, it takes around 1 hours to reach higgledy-piggledy up a steep rocky peak that
5602m Khardung La (Km39), disputably ends in a toe-curlingly vertical chasm. On an
claimed to be the worlds highest motorable intermediate hill, the access road passes a gi-
pass. Celebrate by sipping a cuppa at the gantic (32m) full-colour Statue of Chamba
pass-top canteen, buy T-shirts at the souve- (Maitreya-Buddha), formally inaugurated by
the Dalai Lama in July 2010.
 4!Sleeping & Eating
! reputedly ospring of animals that plied the
270 !!OLD DISKIT LadakhXinjiang caravans up until the clo-
Lhasthang Guest House & sure of the India-China border in the 1940s.
Restaurant HOTEL $ Hunders dunes arent exactly Sahara-sized
(%220165, 9469176104; d 600, without bathroom but the landscape can prove disorientating
350) Directly beneath the gompa turning, so, if attempting to walk back to Diskit, bring
this new, sparkling-clean place has big ex- plenty of water, stick relatively near to the
pansion plans, Buddha views from its open road and beware following dead-end camel
roof-terrace and excellent bathrooms with tracks into impenetrable thorn thickets.
geysers.
4Sleeping & Eating
Sunrise Guest House GUESTHOUSE $ Hunder has around a dozen garden guest-
(%220011; r 500, without bathroom 250; hyear- houses, mostly clumped into two loose
round) Reached through a tunnel stupa, this groupings around 1.4km apart, with Hima-
ageing stalwart has decent-sized guestrooms layan and Snow Leopard lying in between.
and is set in a small sunower garden amid The rst, lower group (Karma, Mehreen,
scattered Buddhist ruins. Two newer rooms Olgok, Padma) is around 1km north of the
have private bathrooms. army camp. The second forms Hunders
!!CENTRAL DISKIT vague centre where the village lane turns
a right-angle beside Jamshed Guesthouse.
Several decent options lie in quiet lanes con-
About 200m further theres a small grocery
veniently close to the bazaar.
JAMMU & K ASHMIR (INCLUDING L ADAKH) L A DA K H

shop on the paved side lane that runs to the

Spangla Guest House GUESTHOUSE $ Ibex and Goba guesthouses. Arrange meals
(%220022; d without bathroom 250-300) Neatly with your accommodation or eat in Diskit.
set in a rose and vegetable garden beside NI Three seriously overpriced luxury camps
Internet, this female-run guesthouse is lov- charge 3300 full-board for bedded tents
ingly maintained, theres a traditional-style with outside shared bathrooms.
dining room and the shared bathrooms have
Goba Guest House GUESTHOUSE $
geysers.
(%221083; d from 200) Choose upper options
Sand Dune Guest House GUESTHOUSE $ with private bathroom, especially room 8
(%220022; r 400-600, without bathroom 200- (600) which has wraparound windows and
250) Shaded by apricot trees, the garden a terrace with views. Sta are remarkably
courtyard makes a pleasant oasis from the obliging, the setting is lovely and the food
nearby bazaar. Rooms vary considerably in is reliably good.
size and style but all are well kept and the
Ibex Guest House GUESTHOUSE $
family is friendly.
(%9469264242; d 600) Set in an unusually
!8! Getting There & Away neat garden, this new bungalow home oers
Leh-bound shared jeeps (300, 4 hours) leave super-clean en suite rooms o a tiled central
frequently between 6am and 9am. From Leh, dining area.
these start near the zabakhana (abattoir, Map
p246). Buses to Diskit depart from virtually Karma Inn HOTEL $$

every main Nubra village before 7am, returning (%221042; karmaleh@yahoo.co.in; d 2000, half-
from Diskit after lunch. A morning bus runs from board 2600) Ten spacious, comparatively
Diskit to Sumur. smart rooms with big bathrooms, rm beds
and bay-window seating overlook an exten-
HUNDER (HUNDUR) sive garden backed by a panorama of moun-
Lost in greenery and closely backed by soar- tains. Coming from Diskit, follow signs
ing valley clis, Hunder village is a popular towards the Organic Camp, around 2km
overnight stop 10km from Diskit. before central Hunder.
1 Sights & Activities
Snow Leopard Guest House GUESTHOUSE $
Hunder Gompa contains a large gilded (%221097; r 500-800) Hunders biggest and
Chamba statue and a crude trail climbs to busiest guesthouse encloses a splendid cen-
a precarious little ridgetop fort. Photogenic tral garden. Older rooms have traditional
sand dunes starting 3km east of the village ceilings and squat toilets, newer rooms are
(500m from the army camp) can be explored bigger with sit-down loos.
on touristy Bactrian camel rides (per 15min
150, one-way to Diskit 700). Host camels are
Olgok Guest House HOMESTAY GUESTHOUSE $
(%221092; d 600) Three excellent new NUBRA NAMES 271
rooms with sparkling clean bathrooms in
an unremarkable concrete bungalow set in Note that on many maps, the names
a large if scrappy garden near Karma Inn. for several western Nubra settlements
The nearby Padma is similar. dont correspond at all with local reality.
Himalayan Guest House GUESTHOUSE $ ON MAPS LOCALLY USED
(%221131; r 450, without bathroom 300) Thoise village Terchey
Tucked into a warren of village footpaths, Khar Skuru
rooms here are fairly standard but the Yaglung Changmar
welcome is heartfelt. Biadango Bogdang

BEYOND HUNDER
Since June 2010, permits allow you to drive At Km12 the road bypasses Tirit village,
90km beyond Hunder following the tur- with views across the valley to a long wa-
bulent Shyok valley along its scenically terfall spurting out of the bare rock-face.
magnicent route to Turtuk. It cascades Spooky Zonzhar Gompa is a small ruin atop
through a narrow canyon to tiny Changmar a roadside knoll at Km16.5. At rst sight
after which the raw-rock cli-mountains be- Sumur (Km22.5) seems little more than the
come even more impressive. The rare, green trio of uninspired restaurants at a road junc-
splashes of village beyond are culturally tion. However to explore Sumur proper turn

L ADAKH&8 K ASHMIR (INCLUDING L ADAKH) N

JAMMU
and linguistically Balti rather than Ladakhi. right here following the pleasantly green
Visitors are extremely rare and can expect link road past J&K Bank. After 2km, leading
considerable attention. The two biggest past several well-spaced guest houses and
Balti villages, Bogdang and Turtuk, both prayer wheels, turn left at a road fork and
have attractive centres that are almost invis- wind up another 1.5km to nd the colourful
ible from the road. To reach central Turtuk, if extensively rebuilt Samstemling Gompa
cross the bridge towards Tyakshi (closed to (donation appropriate, h6am-6pm). The gompa
tourists) then turn immediately left. After is alternatively accessible by driving a 2km
500m cross back on a conspicuous green asphalted spur road from Km25 on the main
footbridge and walk ve minutes along a road, ie the northern end of intriguing Te-
very scenic upper pathway to nd Maha gar (Tiger) village. Directly overlooking that
Guest House (%248040; extremeadvindia@ junction, the eerie rubble of Nubras former
gmail.com; with/without windows 700/600, meals royal citadel leads up to the largely intact
100). While a tad pricey given the shared three-storey shell of Zamskhang Palace
ush squat toilet, its new, very clean and (unguarded). Cautiously climb to the roof for
the owners speak English. On the main road stunning valley views.
Turtuks only other accommodation option Pinchamik (Km29) is a timeless hamlet
is Turtuk Holiday (%248103; s/d 919/1335, full of prayer wheels, chortens and costumed
8 U B R A VA L L E Y

half-board 1366/2191), nine bedded tents old folk carrying baskets full of greens on
sharing a trio of outside bathrooms. Turtuks their backs.
three minuscule restaurants can only man- Panamik (Km4448) is a diuse low-rise
age instant noodles. hamlet with a sprinkling of budget guest
The Turtuk-Hunder road is almost en- houses. At the southern end are two fa-
tirely asphalted. The drive takes under three mous but utterly forgettable dribbles of
hours eastbound but westbound allow far ferric-orange hot spring. Bathing is possible.
longer as at least nine military check posts Panamiks main attraction is the scenery of
en route will entertain you with their inter- surrounding valleys, best appreciated from
minable bureaucracy. Youll need a dozen the bridge just west of Hargam (Km49). Since
permit photocopies. 2010, permits allow you to cross that bridge
and double back down a very rough road
SUMUR & PANAMIK (part stream) towards little Ensa Gompa.
The Nubra River proper descends towards However, Ensas single resident monk seems
the Shyok from the heavily disputed Siachen far from excited to see visitors, and the small,
Glacier, the worlds highest battleground (be- partly collapsing buildings are less interest-
tween India and Pakistan). With standard ing than the hair-raising 25-minute access
Nubra permits foreigners can take the recent- trek along red-rock ledges from the nearest
ly asphalted road as far as Hargam Bridge. driveable track (a road is planned eventually).
 4Sleeping & Eating
Charon (%247011; Km43.8; d 300) have family
272 Most guesthouses can arrange simple meals vibes with some rooms good, others less so.
(around 80) and allow camping (100) in Toilets are in their attractive gardens. Hot
their gardens. Springs Guest House (%247043; without/with
bathroom 300/400) is the only Panamik place
SUMUR so far with ensuite bathrooms but despite
Near J&K Bank, almost at the main junc- the oral setting, its rooms are lacklustre.
tion, AO Guest House (%223506; r 250-400) Saser Restaurant (%247021; Km44.8; d 300)
is convenient for buses and is set in a garden has three small but decent rooms sharing an
of roses and hollyhocks. The best rooms are indoor squat loo but it lacks personality.
on the rooftop.
Some 600m up Sumur Link Rd are peace-
ful Saser Guest House (%223501; d without/
with bathroom 200/400) and similar K,Sar
East of Leh
Guest House (%9469177479; d 300, dm/d Permits are required for Pangong Tso or to
without bathroom 120/200), both pleasant continue east of Upshi.
low-rise houses set in garden-elds which is
SHEY
where youll nd the shared bathrooms for
the cheaper rooms. K,Sar has a bright dorm Once one of Ladakhs royal capitals, Shey
room and generous meals are served family is an attractive, pond-dappled oasis from
style at a central communal table. which rises a central dry rocky ridge, in-
Around 300m further, Namgyal Guest scribed with roadside Buddha carvings
JAMMU & K ASHMIR (INCLUDING L ADAKH) L A DA K H

House (%223505, 9419887505; d without/with (Km459). Along the rising ridge-top, a se-
view 600/700, without bathroom 350) is an at- ries of fortress ruins bracket the three-
tractive two-storey building where the best storey, 17th-century Naropa Royal Palace
rooms have good tiled bathrooms and sur- whose wholesale reconstruction is nearing
vey distant mountains across the organic completion. The palace temple (admission
vegetable garden. 20; h6am-6pm) contains a highly revered
A former traveller favourite, the basic 7.5m-tall gilded-copper Buddha, originally
Largyal Guest House (%223537) is due to installed in 1645. The upper door opens to
re-open in 2011 with at least one new ensuite his inscrutably smirking face, a rarely open
room. hall below views his torso.
Where the link road forks after 2km, head For the most photogenic views of Sheys
right to nd Sumurs two luxury camps. palace ridge, walk part-way along the ac-
Mystic Meadows (%9419178944; d 1500, full cess track to the simple, semi-dormant Be-
board 3000) has bedded tents complete with sthang Guest House (%267556; r without
a pebble-oored toilet set around a verdant bathroom 300) then turn around.
vegetable garden. Silk Route Cottages Experienced teachers are in demand for
(%253439; d 2200, full board 3300) features volunteer work at the local, architecturally
claustrophobically tight-packed cottages, innovative, ecofriendly Druk White Lotus
some made of bamboo, others of bamboo- School (www.dwls.org) .
clad concrete.
THIKSEY
TEGAR
Tegar has two hotels, both slightly smarter Glorious Thiksey Gompa (%267011; admission
than Sumurs guest houses but at vastly 30, video 100; h6am-1pm & 1.30-6pm, festival
higher prices. Both are o the main road Oct/Nov) is one of Ladakhs biggest and most
around Km24.5. Hotel Yarabtso (%223544; recognisable monasteries. Covering a large
s/d 1606/1784, full board 2160/2920) has the rocky outcrop with layered Tibetan-style
more impressive traditional-style facade and buildings, its a veritable monastic village in-
sits in farm-sized grounds but bathrooms at corporating shops, a school, restaurant and
Rimo Hotel (%223528; kesarbardam@hotmail. hotel. The main gompa starts with a prayer
com; s/d 1700/1900, full board 3100/3300) chamber containing a 14m-high Buddha
are more polished. Standards vary between whose expression is simultaneously peace-
rooms at either hotel so look at a few. ful, smirking and vaguely menacing. Smaller
but much more obviously ancient is the
PANAMIK Gonkhang (Protectors Temple) and little
Panamik has ve budget guest houses. Neb-
rooftop library. A museum hidden away
ula (%247013; Km44.3; d 350) has the best
beneath the monastery restaurant displays
kept rooms and its shared bathroom is in-
doors. Bangka (%247044; Km44.7; d 250) and well-labelled Tantric artefacts, some carved
from human bones. Notice the 10 weapons Below the gompa, timeless Hemis village
symbolically used to combat evil spirits. spills out of a craggy red-rock canyon with 273
Thiksey has an interesting dawn puja but mountain and valley panoramas as you de-
it has become disproportionately popular scend the winding 7km back to Karu, pass-
with tourists who, in summer, often out- ing a pair of astonishingly long mani walls.
number the monks.
Pedestrian access is a steep climb from SHANG
near Km455. By car its a 1.5km loop start- Many visitors end their Markha trek (p263)
ing from Km454.2 where monastery-run in the barley elds around diuse Shang
Chamba Hotel (%267005; d 1500, without Sumdo. However, few visitors venture 5km
bathroom 500) has fair-value if unexotic up the side valley to Shang above which a
older courtyard rooms and newer, relatively tiny but extremely dramatic gompa rises
plush en suite rooms within a traditionally on a prominent crag with many semider-
styled two-storey building. The monastery elict mud-brick houses around its base. The
itself also has some guest rooms (upper/ stark, riverside road from Karu (15km) is be-
lower r without bathroom 500/300) beneath the ing asphalted.
gompa museum.
STAKNA Towards Pangong Tso
Small but visually impressive, the 1618 Stak- Chemrey and Takthog can be visited inde-
na Gompa (admission 30; h8am-7pm) crowns pendently but permits are required for se-

L ADAKH&8 K ASHMIR (INCLUDING L ADAKH) T

JAMMU
a rocky outcrop that rises like an island out of rene Pangong Tso, arguably Ladakhs loveli-
the Indus Valley oor. O the gompas small est lake. The whole route is scenically mag-
central courtyard, four rooms with vivid new nicent and constantly varied with serrated
Tantric murals can be visited. Behind the peaks, trickling streams, horse meadows,
main prayer hall, sub-shrines retain 400-year- reective ponds and drifting sands. Parched
old sandalwood statues, original frescoes and dry desert mountains form dazzling ochre
statuettes of the Bhutanese lamas who found- counterpoints to the deep blue skies, some
ed the monastery. From the LehThiksey bus remaining snow-dusted even in August.
terminus (Km449), the complex is 1.7km away Youll cross the Chang La (5289m), In-
(less on foot), crossing the Indus on a narrow dias third-highest motorable pass and prob-
suspension bridge decked with prayer ags ably the only one oering free cups of tea
then climbing a winding access road. (courtesy of the Indian Army).
HEMIS All but 20km of the LehLukung road is
The 1672 Hemis gompa (www.drukpa-hemis.org; now asphalted allowing masochistic tourists
admission 100; h8am-1pm & 2-6pm) is the spiri- to pack a basic Pangong Tso experience into
tual centre of Ladakhs Drukpa Buddhists an exhaustingly long day trip. However, its
(www.drukpa.org). Documents supposedly found vastly more pleasurable to stay the night in
here were used to support Jesus-in-India con- pretty Spangmik or, more adventurously,
8 O WA R D S PA N G O N G T S O

spiracists notion that Christ visited Kashmir in enchanting Merak. Foreigners cant (yet)
(p234). However, for all its fame, the main visit Chushul nor the fabled 17th-century
monastery has a rectilinear exterior that lacks Hanle Palace.
the vertically stacked perfection of Chemrey One/two day jeep tours from Leh cost
or Thiksey. Inside, the ne central courtyard 5160/6143 (per vehicle) to Spangmik,
has plenty of colourfully detailed timbers but 5960/7300 to Merak. A minivan excursion
the main prayer hall is undergoing long-term LehChemreyTakthogHemisLeh costs
reconstruction and the Guru Lhakhangs 8m- 1785.
high statue of Padmasambhava is garish. The Km readings are initially from Karu (add
monasterys extensive museum has some very 35km for Leh) then reset to zero at Tangtse
precious religious treasures mixed in with (Km81). Petrol is not available beyond Karu.
spurious tiger skins, swords and a bra-shaped
wooden cup-case. CHEMREY
The annual Tse-Chu festival (hJul) sees Spectacularly viewed across barley elds
three days of masked dances and every 12th and buckthorn bushes, Chemrey village is
year (next in 2016) the festival culminates in dominated by the beautifully proportioned
the unfurling of Hemis famous three-storey- Thekchhok Gompa (admission 20; hfestival
high, pearl-encrusted thangka. Nov) covering a steep hillock with a maze of
pathways and Tibetan buildings. Above the
 274 LEHMANALI
Utterly beautiful but exhaustingly spine-jangling, this is a ride you wont forget. The Up-
shiKeylong section crosses four passes over 4900m, and then theres the infamously
unpredictable Rohtang Pass before Manali. Although the road is normally open from June
to late September, unseasonable snow or major landslides can close it for days (or weeks).
Theres no petrol station for 365km between Karu and Tandi (8km south of Keylong). When
the road is open, straight-through jeeps should take 22 to 25 exhausting hours. Most travel
agencies plus the Ladakh Taxi Operators Cooperative (Map p246; %252723;h6am-
7.30pm) organise shared through-jeeps (back/middle 1300/1500) departing around mid-
night. Hiring your own jeep (approximately 15,000 per vehicle) with at least one overnight
stop means you can have more space and more time for photo stops.
Bus services (p259) take two days overnighting in Keylong.

Which Direction is Best?

Southbound youll be better acclimatised for high altitude sleeps (Pang or Sarchu); you
could visit Tso Moriri en route; and, if theres a major landslide on the Rohtang Pass, you
could escape by walking two hours down to Mahri, a group of cafes jammed with day-trip
tourist trac from Manali.
Northbound jeep rental can prove much cheaper from Manali, if you nd Ladakhi
JAMMU & K ASHMIR (INCLUDING L ADAKH) L A DA K H

vehicles returning otherwise empty.

Which Overnight Stop(s)?

Overnighting in Sarchu handily breaks the journey into two roughly equal sections but
the altitude can cause problems. Private minibuses overnighting at Sarchu Tent Camps
run sporadically; tickets are usually sold through Vajra Voyages (%9906999135; Main
Bazaar, Leh) and Tiger Eye Adventure (%01902252718; www.tigereyeadventure.com; Old
Manali).
Keylong, Jispa or Gemur offer more comfortable accommodation and significantly
lower altitude but LehKeylong is a very long days ride (around 14/17 hours by jeep/
bus).
To make a three-day ride you might stop at Pang plus Keylong. However at Pang
(4634m) facilities are rudimentary and there are altitude worries if youre not
acclimatised.
Other lonelier parachute cafes offer handy rest stops for acclimatised cyclists.

Km by Km to Keylong
Km425 Upshi: shops, teahouses. The southbound Manali road leaves the Indus Valley.
Km410 Miru: village with shattered fortress and numerous stupas. Beyond is a beau-
tiful, narrow valley edged with serrated vertical mineral strata in alternating layers of
vivid red-purple and ferrous green.
Km398 Gya: picturesque village. Across the river is another crumbling crag-top
fortress.
Km394 Rumtse: last village for 250km. Then lonely rough road climbs through
numerous hairpins to Taglang La (5359m), claimed to be the worlds second-highest
road pass (after Khardung La). South of Taglang La, the wide Moray Plains are edged
with smooth peaks.

appealingly wobbly 17th-century prayer hall, crusted with turquoise ornamentation. The
the Lama Lhakhang has murals blackened monastery access lane starts from near Km8.
to semi-invisibility by butter-lamp smoke. On
the penultimate oor the Guru Lhakhang SAKTI & TAKTHOG
has contrastingly vivid colours and a 3m- Branching o at Km10.4, a paved side-lane
high golden Padmasambhava statue en- passes through Sakti, a spread-out village of
gently terraced elds, waterlogged meadows
 275

Km341 Jeep track signposted Pastureland Camp leads towards Tso Kar, a sizeable
lake ringed by round-topped, snow-speckled mountains.
*Km297 Pang (4634m): a gaggle of similar parachute cafes (bed space 100). For
serious altitude problems, the army camps AMS unit 800m away provides free oxygen.
Km287 The road rises through a memorable, spiky-edged canyon before crossing
Lachung La (5035m).
*Km270 Dolma Tibetan (per person 100): a lonely, basic parachute cafe with a few
mattresses laid on stony ground. Thereafter the road crosses Nakeela La (4915m),
descends the 21 switchbacks of the Gata Loops then trundles through two very photo-
genic valleys featuring Cappadocia-style erosion formations.
Km222 Sarchu: wine shop plus 10 parachute cafes, many offering 100 communal
bed-spaces. Better than most options, Mount View Dhaba (tr/q 500/800) rents whole
bedded tents but theres still no bathroom.
*Km216214 Sarchu Tent Camps: six more upmarket camps almost side-by-side
along an attractive grassy valley. Most have bedded tents with attached toilets and tap/
wash-basin though size and quality vary both between and within properties. Marginally
the most attractive tents are at Antrek Camp (www.antrek.co.in; Km214.3; bed/half-board

L ADAKH&8 K ASHMIR (INCLUDING L ADAKH) T

JAMMU
2000/2800) but a better deal and almost as good are the smaller standard tents
(1000/2000) at orange-topped Goldrop (www.ladakhmanali.com/camping.htm; Km215.1)
whose hard toilet floors are more comfy than stone cobbles or mud floors.
*Km197 Bharatpur: eight parachute cafes (bed-space 100-150) in a lovely high-
altitude valley. Biru Dhaba has the sturdiest stone-sided communal sleeping tent.
*Km176 Zingzingbar Restaurant: one of three dhabas on the long steady descent
from 4850m Baralacha Pass.
Km174 Surreally isolated tyre repair tent.
Km169 Zingzingbar road-camp.
*Km159.5 Hozer Caf (bed-space 200): sleeps 15. An opal blue pond reflects the
mountains. Around 2.5km from Patsio Camp.
*Km143 Darcha Bridge, passport check and several dhabas including Lhasa Food
Corner (bed-space 80) at the bridges south side: friendly, female-run, has an unusually
clean outdoor toilet. After a few days asking around its possible to find horses for the
trek to Zanskar (p242). Buses are generally full by the time they reach Darcha but, head-
ing south, standing for the 30km to Keylong isnt too bad.
*Km139138 Jispa: has three roadside hotels; Padma Lodge (d 1000-1400) is the
8 O WA R D S PA N G O N G T S O

best value.
*Km134 Gemur: pretty little Lahaul village whose single three-room hotel,
Gemoor Khar (%9459103910; www.hotelsnowviewmanali.com/gemoor.htm; tent/d/lux
1000/1320/1650) is a British-style house with exposed stone walls and flagged
bathrooms.
*Km115 Keylong (p338): the first real town. Plenty of hotels.

* accommodation available (very basic communal sleeping spaces unless otherwise

indicated)

and dry-stone walls. The lane skirts Saktis name Takthog (stone roof) refers to a pair
shattered stone fortress ruins (also visible of small but highly revered cave-shrines in
from the main road above) and after nearly which the great sage Padmasambhava sup-
5km, passes beside Takthog (Dakthok) posedly meditated during the 8th century.
Gompa (donation appropriate; hfestival Jul), the These smoke-blackened prayer chambers
regions only Nyingmapa monastery. The now form part of the monasterys attrac-
 tive older section, directly opposite the tin- (per person 100-250) usually just three to
276 roofed Tourist Bungalow (s/d 300/500) six mattresses laid side by side on the oor
where four simple rooms have en suite squat and (at best) sharing an outdoor toilet. None
toilets and share a kitchen. have showers. Most can serve simple meals
(around 50) given a little warning. Places
TANGTSE further away from the lake-shore generally
Dishevelled central Tangtse is an anticli- have better views and more traditional inte-
max after the surrounding scenic glory. riors. Of these, Gongma Homestay (dm/d/
However, 2km beyond, the main road tent 200/500/500) has outstandingly oblig-
squeezes through a rocky cleft behind ing hosts, an unusually clean outside toilet
which clings Tangtse Gompa. The colour-
and three twin-bedded tents in addition
ful main monastery is a recent construction
to typically simple rooms. Nearer the lake
but a hidden stairway leads down to an in-
Wonderland Camp (tw tent 400) is a good
triguing 800-year-old cube of old gompa
deal with bedded tents and shared sit-down
with blackened murals and a mysterious
toilets. Closest to the shore, Padma (tr 300)
shaft of sunlight cutting through the in-
cense smoke. is a four-room blockhouse with three lie-on-
Marginally the best of Tangtses six the-oor box rooms. Its beside Spangmiks
guesthouse-restaurants is perfectly central only restaurant, a parachute tent (dishes
Dothguling Guest House (%9469368805; 25-40) serving omelettes, instant noodles
d 600) with a pleasant Tibetan-style dining and dhal-rice.
If you must have an attached toilet
JAMMU & K ASHMIR (INCLUDING L ADAKH) L A DA K H

room and private bathrooms in half of the

guestrooms. Zamserling Guest House (d choose between Pangong Tso Resort
800), in a garden 800m east of town, has (%9568505530; www.campsoadakh.com; d half-
the nest location and pretty gompa views board 3300), Spangmiks low-rise concrete
but overpriced rooms are very basic, with eyesore, or Camp Watermark (%9968420496;
outside toilets. www.campsoadakh.com; d full board 3500), an
arc of unexceptional bedded tents attractively
PANGONG TSO situated near the waters edge at the entrance
A permit is required to visit Pangong Tso, to Spangmik. Both feel seriously overpriced.
a giant lake, whose surreal palate of vivid Beyond Spangmik the lakeside track
blues cant fail to impress, backed as it is by gets much rougher but remains every bit
colourful mineral swirls and rolling snow- as beautiful especially after Man, approach-
brushed mountains. Whether youre driving ing the similar but more extensive village of
or strolling, the views change constantly, Merak. Backed by some of the lakes most
emphasised by natural reecting pools and memorable mountain ridges, Merak only
occasional foregrounds of makeshift cairns. opened to foreigners in 2010 and remains
At one point, a sand-spit jutting into the tur- little visited. Permits dont allow you to go
quoise waters creates an almost Caribbean further but the lake itself stretches way be-
beach scene near Lukung, the lakes most yond into areas under Chinese control. As
accessible point. Set back from the lakes yet Merak has no formal tourist facilities but
salt-whitened western end, theres no village for 150 per person Twang Rigzen Amchi
here, just an army hut plus a trio of make- can nd you a sleeping space at the tradi-
shift cafes. Theyre mostly popular with day tional medicine clinic while Chawang Tun-
trippers who have no time to go further but duk oers homestay beds if you can track
all oer overnight options; sleeping spaces him down, price negotiable.
in Pangong Restaurant (150), dreary box
rooms at Pangtso Padma (d 700) and mis-
named luxury tents (with tap and simple Tso Moriri & Eastern
wc) at Martsemik (s/d 2000/2200).
Further east, a bumpy unpaved road
Indus Valley
ELEV 4595M
continues to pretty Spangmik whose well-
Permits, required to reach Tso Moriri and
spaced mud-brick houses climb steadily
the upper Indus, are checked at Upshi. Be-
amid gold-green barley elds and mazes of
yond, the Indus ows through a stark, sharp-
dry-stone walls. Its a wonderful place to
cut rocky valley with occasional villages
unwind, meet part-time nomads and maybe
eking out an existence from small oases of
stroll 30 minutes up to the lonely, very mod-
irrigated barley elds. The most signicant
est Gontserboom Gompa. Virtually all of
settlement is Chumathang. All that most
Spangmiks 10 farmsteads oer a homestay