August, 2010 Issue No.

14

BYO Tropical Workshop

Sunday, August 29, 2:00 p.m.
Telly’s Greenhouse, Troy

Meet in the barn on the far side of the parking lot.

1:45 p.m. - Meeting setup and socializing
2:05 p.m. - Club business and announcements
2:20 p.m. - Workshop
3:30 p.m. - Auction at "halftime"

We had hoped to be able to offer our own plants for this workshop, but
were unable to find a cheap source in time. So ... we've changed this
workshop to a BYO from Telly's (buy your own) workshop. If any of you
already own a tropical you'd like to bring in and work on, that's fine too. As President’s Message
of newsletter press time, Telly's had some nice black olives that would be
ideal. (We'll probably have more information on what's available at Telly's, I feel like I did a poor job of explaining
but that wasn't ready in time for the newsletter. We'll email that info when my philosophy on choosing a front and
we have it.) choosing a style at the last meeting.
Hey, they can't all be gems. : )
So just prior to the meeting, you can check the greenhouse and buy
anything that strikes you, or just wait for the meeting to start and we'll have I had intended that the talk would be
a few sample plants to choose from. Beginners, if you need help choosing about looking at a raw, full foliage tree
an appropriate plant, we'll help out with that at the start of the workshop and how you go about finding the
portion of the meeting. bonsai shape hidden inside. But I think
I got off track somewhere along the
A workshop like this is an ideal time to start learning about wiring. So if way and never quite finished. So I'd like
you've heard about wiring but never tried it yourself, this is the time to get
to hit "reset" and give it another shot
hands-on experience.
here. My philosophy on finding the
hidden bonsai within goes like this.
Auction of Hector's Bonsai (And this generally applies only to trees
that have not been styled as bonsai
The auction last month of Hector's bonsai, tools and pots made $749 for
prior. If your tree has been styled as a
the club. Thank you to everyone that bid and/or won. Hopefully, everyone
got something to remember Hector by. We'll have more items to auction at
bonsai already, the process is more
this month's meeting as well. So if you missed out or couldn't attend the straightforward; just continue refining
last auction, you'll have a second chance. the style you already have.) The
following is more for what to do when
you're completely stuck, don't know
Follow-Up to May's Yamadori Shimpaku Workshop what to do, don't know how to get
How have your shimpaku been doing since the May workshop? Mine
started.
(Todd's) doesn't look much different, although I did lose a small branch let
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 Continued from Page 1
or two (see the brown stuff in the photo). I
Presidents Message probably manhandled it too much while I
was trying to make all the twists and turns.
Step 1: If the tree has a lot of foliage, so much that it obscures a I must have snapped it accidentally. But
clear view of the inner features like the trunk and major branches, they're just small branches and all of the
you need to eliminate enough "mass" to be able to see what other foliage looks good. I've kept it in a
you're doing on the inside an make informed decisions. So first, partly-shady area. (It would have been fine
prune out any smallish dead branches and dead foliage. (Large if set back in the sun a week or so after the
dead branches are sometimes used in the design, so don't prune workshop. I just never got around to it.)
them all the way back. Just cut back the little stuff.) Of course, if
you have any leaf litter or debris stuck in the foliage, clean that Remember that although these plants are
out too. pretty small at the moment, the ultimate
goal is to let them grow out a bit and (if you
Step 2: What I often do next is eliminate any living green foliage choose) to perform the same type of
and sub-branches that I consider redundant. What's redundant? If operation periodically as the shimpaku
I have 3 or 4 sub-branches emerging from the same spot on a grows larger. Every time it grows out with
main branch, I'd probably get rid of all but 2. This reduces the long, straight branches, wrap, wire and
mass of foliage but doesn't reduce your options for shaping the bend again. Here's that photo of Jim
Gremel's bonsai again for inspiration.
branch later on in the process. (At least in general this works.
Sometimes I don't follow this if I think I'm going to need more
foliage on that particular branch.) And choosing the right sub-
branches to eliminate can be important too. Keep the longer ones
if you think that particular branch is going to need to be longer
than the others. Keep the outermost side branches if you think
that branch will need some width later. Etc. As I said, this really
only works when you have sub-branches emerging from the
same spot. That's what I mean by redundancy. Sub-branches that
emerge from different spots along the main branch are fine.
Leave them alone. Pruning them now may reduce your options
later on.
Step 3: On most trees, the foliage on top is going to be stronger
and fuller than the foliage toward the bottom. At your discretion,
cut back some of the foliage at the top, working your way lower,
(tapering off this type of pruning as you work your way
downward.) Leave the lower branches basically untouched.
Never cut back so far that you remove all the green leaves.
(Eliminating perhaps half of the green at the top would be more
reasonable.) Use step 3 at your own discretion. You are the
judge; every plant will be different. Don't follow this step if you feel
it will limit your design options later; if you feel that you have very
little foliage already.

By now, you should have a tree that feels much smaller than what
you started out with. You should be able to see the inner features
and yet still have enough branches and foliage to build a
preliminary branch structure.
Step 4: Dig out the soil (carefully) around the lower part of the
trunk and rootage. You want to reveal how the roots spread and
differentiate as they go deeper into the soil. (On most landscape
stock, this is hidden.)
Step 5: Look at all the features of your inner tree - the taper of the
lower trunk, the rootage and flare at the soil line, the branches
that emerge from the trunk. Choose a style that shows the tree's
best features and hides any flaws. (I apologize that I'm glossing
over this part. Picking an appropriate style is also a difficult thing
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Continued from Page 2

Presidents Message
But explaining it in detail would take up another whole newsletter. My intent here is just to get you started.)
I consider the most important features (important to the design of the bonsai) to be the trunk and rootage,
followed by the main branches. Sub-branches, foliage and the overall silhouette are less important for
your decision-making because they are the easiest features to change and adapt to whatever style you
choose. The lower trunk, rootage and thick branches are very hard to alter, so your best design option is
the one that works well with those features. (Hope that makes sense.) Rotate, tilt and examine these
features from different angles to discover interesting tapers, curves and design possibilities. Also consider
that the angle of the soil line can be altered. You don't have to keep the tree's orientation as it was found. I
consider this part of the process like a negotiation; certain angles and rotations give certain good and bad
points. ("The curve and taper of the trunk looks great from this rotation, but the branch placement is less
than ideal. From another rotation and angle, the branches are good, but the trunk has an ugly reverse
taper.") You must play these "what if" games and negotiate the best possible solution to these
conundrums. No solution will be perfect, but you should try to maximize the tree's best features. This is
difficult, but it's also one of the most rewarding parts of bonsai; finding the perfect bonsai within. If it were
too easy, it wouldn't hold our interest for long.

One last tidbit of advice: your best choice for a bonsai style is one that doesn't fight the tree's natural
shape. For instance, don't go chasing a cascade style if the species and the general shape of the tree are
more upright. And vice versa. Find the style that fits your tree with an open mind. If you really want to
create a bonsai in a particular style, go out and find the appropriate plant first.

Hopefully, this helps get you started.

Todd

Ann Arbor Bonsai Society 2010 Show

Sat & Sun, August 28-29, 10am - 4:30 pm
Matthaei Botanical Gardens, Ann Arbor, Michigan

The Ann Arbor bonsai show is the same weekend as our meeting. So if you can, go see the show on
Saturday, then attend our meeting on Sunday. The event is only $3 admission and includes the annual
showing of Society member's trees. Over 100 beautiful trees from all sizes & species will be on display.
Workshops, free demonstrations and vendors, will be available. Visitors may vote in the People's Choice
for their favorite bonsai selections from different categories. Find more information on the Ann Arbor
website: annarborbonsaisociety.org

3
SUPPORT OUR LOCAL BONSAI VENDORS WHAT’S AHEAD ON THE
SCHEDULE FOR 2010
Aug. 29 ....... B-Y-O Tropical Work-
shop. Bring your own
tropical or buy one at
Telly’s and we’ll help you
learn to wire and style.

Sept. 26 ...... Bonsai Auction and

Pot Luck Lunch. Held
at the home of a Four
Seasons member. A great
opportunity to acquire
everything from high-
quality bonsai to low-cost
bonsai stock plants, pots
and tools. (See the August
newsletter for location and
important details.)

Oct. 24*....... Presentation on Trees

from the 2009 World
Bonsai Convention in
Puerto Rico by Kurt Smith
of The Flower Market.

Nov. 21*....... Jack Wikle Presents

“Growing Bonsai Under
Fluorescent Lights.”
Jack Wikle from the Ann
Arbor Bonsai Society
comes to Four Seasons for
a presentation you won’t
want to miss.

Dec. 4*........ Christmas Party.

(Restaurant TBD.)

*Not held on the last Sunday of the month.

Club members get 10% discount on bonsai items.

Club members get 10% discount on bonsai items.

Thank you,
S+R EVENT RENTAL
S+R Event Rental “FOR ALL OUTDOOR OCCASIONS”
for all your help with the HARRISON TWP.
club’s annual shows! Toll Free #: 800-230-7706
sreventrental.com
OFFICERS, COMMITTEE CHAIRS DIRECTIONS TO OUR MEETINGS
& BOARD OF DIRECTORS Our meetings are held at Telly’s Greenhouse at 3301 John R Troy, MI
President ................ Todd Renshaw, (248) 585-9916 48083-5656, between Big Beaver and Wattles. Nursery phone: 248-689-
webmaster@mababonsai.org 8735, Nursery website: www.tellys.com. Guests are welcome at meetings.
Vice-President ........ John Stevens, (248) 544-3112 Meetings are usually held on the last Sunday of the month at 2:00 p.m.
jalden123@aol.com
Some events are held off-site. Always consult the newsletter issued just
Secretary ................ Ed Powers before a meeting for exact date, time and location.
Treasurer ................ Janine Makowski
(248) 585-6074
E. Wattles Rd. 17 Mile Rd.
s.makowski@comcast.net

Newsletter .............. Kristy Mitchell

Rochester Rd.
TELLY’S NURSERY
Show Chair ............. Lamont Jackson 3301 John R Road
(248) 495-8243
lamont_tiger@lycos.com

Website .................. Todd Renshaw, (see above) Big Beaver Rd. Metro Pkwy.

John R Rd.

Dequindre Rd.
Director, 2-Yr. Term ... Bette Gay, (248) 515-1732 Exit 67
rgay@voyager.net

Ste
.
Director, 1-Yr. Term ... Jimmy Whiteley Rd

ph
en
ster
(248) 608-2478

so
jimantique@aol.com Roche

nH
wy
E. Maple Rd. 15 Mile Rd.

.
Director, 1-Yr. Term ... Tom McCue, (586) 293-1514
q569@wowway.com

VISIT THE CLUB WEBSITE AT WWW.FOURSEASONSBONSAI.COM

Anita Ormond
Place
Four Seasons Bonsai Club of Michigan
Stamp
7480 E. Holly Road
Here
Holly, MI 48442