1

what do you see?

ahmedabad - more than an mpression
i

june, 2015
2 what do you see?

Looking at a new direction,

from the editor’s desk
Ahmedabad is like Undhiyu, a Gujarati multiple characteristics which contribute
mixed vegetable dish. What makes it to its “image”. However, one gets carried
popular are the multiple textures and away with the city’s picturesque postcards
flavors of the vegetables that are cooked that show scenic views, overlooking
slowly in a multitude of spices and more. the interplay of diverse textures and
The taste of each of these elements can be experiences that Ahemdabad offers.
appreciated and revealed only after savoring Leaving the immediate sensation, we
it more than once, as every bite of the same choose to portray buildings or spaces, some
serving is a flavoursome experience. of which have potential but are not valued
Just like Undhiyu, Ahmedabad with its enough. Some are hyped, others had life,
cornucopia of elements slowly reveals its yet all these have an implication on the city.
 3

contents 11
a personal
image of
the city

4 who owns a public

a space?

17
an image
of times to 23 city from the crest
come
35
a potential
image
unrealised

29 a lost
symbol

45 40 trending
lakefront

a cup of 50
chai with the old space,
dead new
performances!
4 what do you see?
 5

ARCHANA VITTAL | NOSTALGIC URBANIST

who owns a public space?

everyday users,
citizens, tourists,
OR all of
them ?
6 what do you see?

A s I cross the Gandhi Road of the

old city of Ahmedabad, the image
of the fort enlarges in front of me, and
600-year old Bhadra Fort, Azam Khan
Serai, Teen Darwaza and religious places
like Bhadra Kali Temple, Akub Saheb’s
I see vendors and buyers moving around Mosque is also surrounded by famous
like ants around the anthill. I head through bazaars, city level transport terminal and
the flashy and colourful display of articles important buildings like City Civil Court
sold on carts, with a cloud of colourful and Premabhai Hall.
awnings hovering, crying out to me. Yes I
am near the Bhadra Fort. The footwear, the The Bhadra plaza project, at the nerve
duppattas, the clothing, the lemonades, the centre and the historic core of Ahmedabad,
jewellery, the autos all contain a small world belongs to the people of old city of
in itself. Ahmedabad. Or so it seems.

The Bhadra Plaza Development Project The project was meant to bring people
in Ahmedabad, costing Rs.74-crore together, to accentuate the importance of
under JnNURM scheme, was proposed the history of Ahmedabad and to project
by Vastu Shilpa Foundation along with an image to the city. Accentuation, it
CEPT University, and completed in 2014. certainly does in a way. Representation,not
The square, against the backdrop of the so much.
 7

Above: Seating around the pool

Many historical revitalization projects were
Below: View of the markets from the ASI office
undertaken in Ahmedabad, as it turned
600-year old in 2011. The design intent to Facing page: Space in front of Premabhai Hall
Page 4 & 5: Children playing in the pool
create a huge public square inside a city’s
historical core is an important step in
creating an image to a city because public
squares represent cities.

The project included the restoration of

the surrounding historical buildings, the
fort into museum and café; improvement
of overall infrastructure like roads,
public toilets, parking, street lights,
landscape, pedestrianization of the area;
reorganization of formal and informal
markets and inclusion of pedestrian bridge
to connect the river to the plaza. A fountain
lined by trees shades the central area,
8 what do you see?

Above: people at the area around fountain

surrounded by walkways and seatings. The Facing page: Premabhai Hall and the
Bhadra Plaza project has come like a dilator surrounding informal market
to the energized but wheezing city centre.
It has made a huge transformation. But, it experience and adds value to the spaces, the
could have done more. people, and the surrounding buildings.

The square is dotted with numerous The market swells and bustles after sunset;
umbrellas, selling everything under the they encircle the fort. Moving carts sell
sun. Children splash water at each other eateries,fruits and drinks. Extending about
near the fountain. People watch children half a kilometer the plaza forms a vista
frolicking. The smell of popcorn fills the point between Bhadra and Teen Darwza,
nostrils, as the bhaiyya juggles the cart between which the character of market also
through shops and people, sounding the changes. New light poles, granite platforms,
bells. Voice of people bargaining with seaters, stones pavers with patterns, are
prices competes with the sound of prayers new layers to the ‘old city’ life. Bhadra,
from the nearby mosque. As one nears throughout history has been a market.
the Teen Darwaza, the smell of food Street markets have thrived in the city from
becomes stronger, mixed with the smell a very long time, and Ahmedabad is the
of footwear. The plaza becomes narrower street market capital of India. They give
at this edge. Pedestrianization enhances energy and vitality to the city.

The project envisioned Bhadra as a city centre

 9

In the design, along with major Another problem is that it does not bring
infrastructure changes, street vendors the east and west parts of the city together.
were reduced to half of the initial number Despite cultural differences between old
and vendors were to be allowed only at city and new city, there have been common
the edges of buildings. The intention aspirations that bind them together which
was to get a clear space at the centre for have not been addressed to. Bhadra
various activities. The design also tried enhances the image of ‘old city’ and doesn’t
to accentuate entry and exit points using do much to represent the whole metropolis.
gateway like structures to make it more Jen Gahl, known for his urban researches,
legible to the users. says that everyday users, visitors and
customers, passersby, recreational visitors,
This project has increased the participation and visitors to events, all make for
of local community, and, probably, there successful public spaces. Incorporating
lies the problem. The use of such an them in the design is critical.
important space is just unilateral. Instead
of attracting people from all over the city it Squares catch up the spirit of a city, its
has emerged as a local space. social and economic activities, public
Outsiders and visitors are passive space articulation and usages are culturally
consumers and are not active participants. different. Piazza San Marco in Venice and
The central square has become a place for Times Square in New York are wonderful
the poor, the apparently homeless or for public spaces in terms of articulation,
the locals or passers-by. Hence interactions usage and popularity. They are the stage for
are reduced. Edges of buildings like public life. Public squares can also become
Premabhai Hall are used for display of identity to cities like how Eiffel Tower
goods. It is reduced to a noisy and unclean represents Paris.
market square. The designer’s intentions
may have been profound, but, on the
ground the square has not realized its full
potential yet.

The spread of vendors from the dedicated

spaces to almost every nook and corner
of the square is overwhelming. The
reasons for this could be problems in
implementation and lack of attempt to
make the place more usable. For example
more cultural, religious and social activities
could have been organized.
10 what do you see?

In India, public squares often become

market squares usually in the core of most
cities. They provide opportunities for small
scale entrepreneurship, places for walking,
gathering, and shopping. They contribute
to economic, cultural and social activities,
but not so much as a relief to urban living.
Probably it is time for Bhadra square to
realize its potential and contribute to all Whether these kind of spaces showcase
dimensions of public life. our strengths of urban informality or
backwardness and an inability to have
The Bhadra’s role as a market square public space and life is questionable.
diminishes its other dimensions of An important public space which unites the
experience of a public space. It appears city together, the Bhadra, is not becoming.
the current users are localites, and non Yet. ◆
elites; the place with this character is not so Above: Vendors at the central area
welcoming for all the classes. Below: The night view of the Fort with markets
 11

SHREYAS BAINDUR | ASPIRING ARCHEOLOGIST

a personal image of the city

why
NOT ?
12 what do you see?

W ithin the chaos of the city of

Ahmedabad, impatient eyes look
for an oasis of peace and quiet. A place of
city that are off the beaten tourist track,
such as the north lawns at CEPT during
the evenings, where it is possible to just
refuge. Such places are hidden and, when lounge around on the grass. But one other
found, show the possibility of how a city such place that could also be classified as
can be seen by everyone. These places hidden oasis is Dada Harir ni Vav, located
are unusually hard to find because we are in old Ahmedabad. The experience of the
not accustomed to look for them in the vav itself helps the eager mind develop
city’s chaos. The question of the feasibility an image of the city that is personal and
of such personal space within the larger unique.
context of the city begs to be asked. Are
public spaces in an urban environment King Mehmud Begda built the vav in the
supposed to have private corners for year 1485. It is one of the best examples
individuals? Do these private spaces among of Solanki architectural style common at
the public realm cast an image on the mind the period of construction. The vav is built
of the visitor, on behalf of the city? in sandstone, which is a locally available
There are many such places around the variety of stone.
 13

Everyone is mostly familiar with the Above: The terraces within the vav
Below: On top of the vav
notion of the step well and the purpose
with which they were built. The step wells Facing page left: The broken balconies
served not only as a place to collect water, Facing page right: The well
but also as a place of congregation and
socializing, mostly for the women.

Building a vav was considered as an act

of philanthropy towards the community.
They were considered as the ultimate
public monuments at the time, available
to people from all rungs of society. The
vavs also served an ecological purpose of
being soak pits that allowed the rainwater corner within the depths of the vav, the
to collect during the monsoons and seep dimly lit darkened sandstone envelops you
into the ground, replenishing the ground from all sides; providing isolation from
watertable. distractions outside, helps the mind shift
effortlessly from the present day into a
Approaching Dada Harir ni Vav after quieter place, where you can be alone with
having maneuvered through the bad traffic your thoughts. It is not difficult in this
and the heat, it feels like you are leaving place to find such quite spots and watch
everything behind descending into the your everyday image of public spaces in a
depths of the step-well. Finding a suitable city disappear right in front of your eyes.
14 what do you see?

In many ways Dada Harir ni Vav is

completely different from it’s better known
cousin, Adalaj ni Vav. For one, it is smaller
and has not been maintained as well as
Adalaj ni Vav. Dada Harir ni Vav is part of
a complex that has a mosque and a dargah
along with the vav itself. Unlike the Adalaj
ni vav, this vav is less touristy, in the sense
that there are fewer people to trouble you
when you are there.

Nowadays, where most people living in the

city do not have to go to water on a daily
basis, rather water comes home; going to
a step well has become a redundant act.
Going to a step well today is more an act
of viewing a past that is long lost to us. We
go to them only to gawk at the ornately
carved stone and to admire the time and
wealth that our ancestors had. We do not
go to the vavs to relive the life that was
once lived by these very same ancestors.

The experience at Dada Hairi ni Vav is

a personal one. The vav almost begs to
have its intimate spaces that are spread In my experience at the vav, I felt more and
throughout consisting of, but not only, more attached to it the longer I stayed.
the intermediate levels reinforcing the
massive vertical side walls and the balconies Separated from the chaos, it became
overlooking the various large openings that apparent that I was able to enjoy the tiny
allow light to filter in, become part of your details. The sculptures made in sandstone
own experience for a short period of time. have lost their detail, but the broken
At the entry, a board displays the visiting balustrades for the balconies overlooking
time for the vav that is not well enforced. the well have managed to maintain their
It is very well possible to sit there lost intricacy. The simple stone cut pillars had
among the patinated stone statues and the beautiful rough edges all over, the cobwebs
dimly lit steps well into the evening and to in almost every corner of the vav gave the
the night. entire space a very ethereal look.
 15

Grand images are good for postcards, but personal

experiences make up our own image of the city.
16 what do you see?

All of these had suddenly become part of sense of respite, which even citizens and
my memory of Ahmedabad, my personal visitors look for.
image of the city. But a city can’t have it all, can it? Spaces
like Dada Harir ni Vav are undoubtedly an
Usually, the image that gets associated important part of Ahmedabad that help
with a city is always grand. An image that define the city on a personal and individual
is basically larger than life. In every large level, this helps the image of a city to last
public space, people constantly hunt for a longer in our memory.
place of solitude among the chaos, so the
they can sit in one place and watch the city The image of a city, especially a city as
pass by. In places like the Bhadra Plaza and complex as Ahmedabad, cannot be defined
the Sabarmati Riverfront Project; there is a or categorized easily. This image, for me,
sense of alienation. It almost feels like you moves away from the photographic and
are put on display, for everyone to stare at. the grand, that the bureaucracy wants
to portray, and moves towards the more
Historical structures like Dada Harir ni Vav personal and intimate experiences of the
tend to get lost, when compared to more city that form a lasting part of our memory
recent public projects, in the vastness of of the city.
the urban fabric of Ahmedabad, despite
being crucial as public spaces. These Grand images are good for postcards, but
types of structures become part of our personal experiences make up our own
subconscious memory of a city and offer a image of the city. ◆

Page 14: Light well in the step well

Bottom: The Mosque and Darga behind the Vav
 17

APOORVA SHARMA | POLITICALLY ANONYMOUS

an image of educational buildings

A cool fitful breeze stirs up the languid

trees. Light from the swinging lamps
weaves magic patterns on the red brick
walls of the CEPT campus. White petals
an

image
unsettled by the breeze descend silently
from the champa tree. A group of students
sit on the office building steps and engage
in an animated discussion. Being able to sit
and linger, dream about the future, reflect

of times
and internalize, are things I have taken for
granted on the CEPT campus.

to come...
The value of CEPT’s architecture and
what it empowers began to dawn on me,
when I saw how the new college buildings
are planned and built. The changes and
differences were driven home, when the
new building next door was unveiled.
18 what do you see?

T he Institute of Engineering and

Technology (IET) building, in the
neighboring Ahmedabad University (AU)
intimately hug the earth, this building
stood shouting aloud like a huge sandstone
boulder in the middle of a barren highway.
was recently completed and opened for
viewing. When the corrugated sheets that The Ahmedabad Education Society (AES)
hid the construction for long were brought was established 80 years ago, comprising of
down, a massive red menhir like structure philanthropic industrialists who supported
suddenly reared its head. Unlike the CEPT CEPT campus and in recent times also
campus and other college buildings that promoted the IET building. The new
play hide and seek amongst the trees and building is another educational building and
 19

a part of a larger campus that is underway. The buildings have to be built till the edges
The two buildings and campuses are of the site and cannot be set back on
separated by fifty years but they seem to higher levels. All the buildings have to have
be light years apart. The architecture gives external facades made from ‘local’ Agra
an insight on two different worlds and stone and exposed concrete.
how the changes they embody, show how
we look at education which has moved far The new design approaches buildings
away from nobler ideals. and spaces very differently from what the
CEPT design does. The master plan hinges
AES recently had a change in management on maximizing the utilization of available
and in 2009 established Ahmedabad space and creating an urban character for
University which consolidated the existing the campus. It claims that the campus will
institutions and made way for newer ones. ‘fit’ in the urban fabric of the city. One
They brought about a change in the vision; might think the campus looks impressive
‘Global Education at local cost, context and international, will project an image of
and ethos’, which has been manifested in a progressive Ahmedabad. But what such
the proposed master plan designed by HCP a collection of objects in a grid resembles
Design, Planning and Management Pvt. is an IT park or a central business district.
Ltd. Ahmedabad. The spaces between the buildings will be
lonely and desolate, while students are
The master plan proposes construction inside clicking away at their work just like
of four-storey and ten-storey buildings their future places of employment.
which need to have internal courtyards to
replace the existing buildings (including early The existing heritage buildings have been
examples of modern architecture in India - ignored in the proposal and replaced by
L.D. Arts, M.G. Science and L.M. Pharmacy) similar looking large imposing objects each
as well as ten new buildings. They have been almost the size of half a football field.
imagined as a collection of boxes placed in These objects are in sharp contrast from
a highly regimented grid. Ordered, one after the significant yet non imposing existing
the other they stand in attention all of a very buildings and open spaces of the campus
similar size and on the same axis. as it is today.

...it claims that the campus will ‘fit’ in the urban

fabric of the city
20 what do you see?

F ears about the new campus and

changes it promotes came true when
the IET building, the first structure of the
proposed campus, was completed.

Pankaj Vir Gupta and Christine Mueller

won the competition for the IET building.
Compared to the other failed entries,
including a beautiful sweeping staircase
that took you from the ground right till
the terrace designed by SPA Architects
and a building by Kapadia Associates that
managed to break the block and have
accessible streets, Pankaj and Christine’s
entry hardly challenged the master plan.

Vir and Mueller’s building is an introverted

block closed from all sides and fits the
master plan’s dictate. The eastern side of
the building bares itself like a display of
T-rex bones and one gets the first glimpse
to staircases. The bared space struggles
to hide the compromise of having to
stretch the building edge to cover the
entire plot. No space is left untouched;
every square inch of space is paved or
treated to be ‘utilized’ for the ‘purpose’
of learning. The edge of the building is
sharp and unforgiving, instead of accepting
the visitor, it forces her to step inside. It From top to bottom:
has a sense of urgency, the double height vir.mueller architects, KAPADIA Associates,
corridors demand that you rush to your Surya Kakani Associates, SPA Architects
competition entries courtesy
classroom. It is ironic that the students
http://iet.ahduni.edu.in/pages/campus/new-building--ict
have named the courtyard which was
meant to be for informal interaction as the Facing page
‘Diwan-e-Aam’. The comparison is apt. Above: textured flooring in the double
height corridors
The red sandstone and monumentality
Below: Eastern side of building stretched
give it a royal air, a place for the ruler
 21

to listen to grievances. The building It looks at learning as if it could be looked

forces people to look inwards, instead of through the narrow purview of being
fostering interaction it cripples not only the focused on skill development or training.
informality within but the opportunity to It doesn’t leave much to imagination and
interact with the surrounding institutions. hence doesn’t empower.

To the credit of Vir and Muller, the

architects, they have tried to break the
monotony of the corridors with the red
sandstone to become benches and tables.
Black marble, white marble and kota stone
weave into patterns that bring texture to the
floor. The services, fire safety features are
tucked in neatly. Executed with panache,
the exposed concrete and red sandstone
detailing is careful and noteworthy.

The well crafted details of the building

seem to be a compromise in the face of the
other architectural decisions; an introverted
courtyard, a sharp edge and monumental
scale and appearance.

The philanthropists who purchased this

land back in 1939 believed in building
institutions that would bring out the best
in each individual, and not merely in
processing them to fit the moulds to meet
the current expected social (or market)
demand. They understood the importance
of freedom and openness by bringing in
nature, having ambient spaces to sit and
ponder, to interact and dare to create.
Visitors rarely use the words ‘progressive
campus’ to describe CEPT campus, but
that is what they are reacting to with awe.
In contrast, the new vision does not see
learning as a holistic experience.
22 what do you see?

It doesn’t allow the students a sense of

wonderment or being able to question. As
Krishnamurthy a renowned educator put it,
it is important to know the importance of
knowledge as well it’s irrelevance.

All is not lost, the master plan can still

be altered, the buildings can be better
designed. What it requires is a will and an
openness of mind, buildings will follow. ◆

.....the importance of knowledge, as well as it’s irrelevance.

 23

MAULI PATEL | SKYLINE FANATIC

city from the crest

an emblem I
stand,
living up to
what I can
24 what do you see?

O ne of the best experiences that one

can have with their city is to be able
to view it from an altitude high above its
fabric and to enjoy the hues of the city
in one gaze. Ahmedabad is more a city
of streets and low rise buildings, having
tall structures amid these is like making
a landmark for its habitants or creating
an emblematic entity for the city. Patang,
the revolving restaurant is one of the few
tall structures that allow a 360 degree
view of Ahmedabad. Also its form and
stature make it very appealing. Not all can
approach this building with ease, though
the form allows but the function doesn’t,
this subsides the potential of its symbolism.

Its prime location in the city enhances its

visual relation with the passers-by. The
Sabarmati River divides the new city
from the old fortified one. The Patang
complex lies on its banks with the new
growing city surrounding it and one of the
primary roads running past it. A cylindrical
structure (used for vertical circulation)
holds the circular revolving restaurant on
top which is 221ft from ground level. Its
form can be compared to that of a city’s
water tank which rains over the city and is
almost like a necessity and not absurd or
extrinsic. Different people have different
approach towards this building. Some have
celebrated it, some might never be able to
Top right: Patang with Chinubhai complex see what it is from up there, but no one
Top left: Model by HCP fails to have a glance at it whenever it falls
Above: Entrance to the restaurant reception in their vision.
Facing page: Interiors of the restaurant
 25

This building was constructed along with facilitate the guests to the restaurant above,
the building complex called the Chinubhai allowing them to see the surrounding sink
centre, which has another prismatic as they go high. Stepping out of the lifts a
commercial building and many other shops narrow passage leads to the dining space
that are lined on the ground floor plaza. where you are greeted by the welcoming
Ar. Hasmukh Patel designed it in 1980 and eyes of the staff.
soon it became superior to any structure
anywhere in the city and was visible even Your eyes travel through the dark finished
from 5km off. It became a symbol. The floor, the elusive lights and the arrangement
architect designed it to have a striking of the tables draped with satin table
appearance from far, but didn’t provide a cloth. The air is filled by the aroma of
grand entrance as he wanted people to be the multiple cuisines laid along the inner
visually connected. At its bottom there is circumference. An artist enchants the
an entrance like just another street café. place by a placid music. The restaurant can
But as far as the restaurant is concerned accommodate 110 people who dine at the
and the era when it was made, the architect tables arranged on the circular disk around
has made it achieve its purpose. the centre service cylindrical kitchen and
lift ducts. The key aspect is that the floor
After being able to find the entry to this revolves and the central area and the city
place, going past the reception, the two lifts remain still.
26 what do you see?

The most exciting part - The view. The revolve once and you get the see the whole
river, the bridges, the streets, mini cars, vista by the time you’re done.. Neither the
roof tops, construction cranes, and the food nor the restaurant, but the city outside
building profiles at the horizon- you can’t would draw you again to this place. The
take your eyes off them. It’s vast and subtle interiors don’t overpower but allow
beautiful. Any Ahmedabadi or a visitor you to see what the building wants you to see.
wouldn’t want to miss this. You forget
everything that is around for a while There is a terrace, but it is not accessible to
when you see the city. Sitting at one end the people and so it isn’t of any use. What
of the table the person ahead is no more can make the building more symbolic and
important, the eyes seize each and every interactive to everyone? Not all can afford
detail of what comes to it and even the to be in the restaurant. One more function
conversations are influenced by what exists added to this without changing any of its
beyond the enclosures. The inclined glass form can add a lot to this edifice. How
windows allow us to look down and not about a layers on top for just visitors! The
to the sky. In the middle of the day you space will surely make a lot of friends who
can see the clear bright panaroma, as the would come over on weekends to greet the
sun goes down, the facades go dim and city from the top. This additional function
the lights of the megacity shine out. The has been successful in other such high
restaurant disk takes about one hour to rise monuments like the M.B.S. hotel in
 27

Singapore, similar tower over the Niagara Top: Sunset over Ahmedabad
Above left: Traffic junction
Falls, and many other skyscrapers over the
Above right: View through the window
world. So why not Patang?
Though the outer form is losing its Facing page: Panoramice view of the bridges
aesthetic beauty as it ages, it offers a lot to
Ahmedabad and its people. Even with the
upcoming high rises, this one is going to be
a symbol till it stands. ◆
28 what do you see?

The colors of the city reflect onto me,

none can contain their glee with what I make them see.
The vista shares an intangible relation.
It does not matter if I have upcoming competition.
 29

NIYANTA SHAH | HERITAGE ENTHUSIAST

a lost symbol

L ike any other Friday, in the January of

2007, pedestrians hurried by without
realizing that the fiddler playing at the
entrance to a Washington D.C. Metro stop
was one of the finest classical musicians
in the world. He was playing some of the
most elegant music ever written, on one of
the most valuable violins ever made.

That day, Joshua Bell the Grammy-winning

violinist who would fill America’s grandest
symphony halls with an audience that was
mesmerized by his music, was just another
vagabond, competing for attention of
office-goers and other passengers using the
metro.

This was a social experiment titled “In

a banal setting at an inconvenient time,
would beauty transcend?” organised by
the Washington Post.The experiment
brought out the philosophical debate on
what beauty is perceived as and resounds
Immanuel Kant’s theory that it depends
on the immediate state of mind of the
observer. If the same violinist was to play
in a plaza in Paris or Milan, the by-standers
would have revelled in the music!
Space is the spotlight.

Art loses its frame in the mundane

ambience of everyday things.
There is lesson for Ahmedabad in this.
30 what do you see?

S iddi Saiyyed ni Jaali is one of the two

most intricately carved stone traceries
that adorn the semi-circular arches along
the walls of the Sidi Saiyyed Mosque in old
Ahmedabad. Since several years especially
after the 1960’s, when the IIM-A took an
abstraction of the carving in their official
logo, it has become a synonymous symbol Above: Artistic Ahmedbad,
Campaign by Gujarat Tourism
for the city. The intricate latticework is
Left: The IIM-A Logo
romanticized on postcards, travelogues and Below: Wooden re-creation of the
Ahmedabad tourism websites. Souvenirs jali in Cama Hotel, Ahmedabad
of the jali are given to important delegates Facing page: Rear end
that visit the city and its high definition of the Mosque
images are printed on full pages of coffee
table books that give it a world-wide
recognition and an association as the
unofficial logo of Ahmedabad.

The mosque was built by Sidi Saiyyed, an

African in the service of Jhajar Khan, a
general in the army of the last Sultan of the
Gujarat Sultanate.
 31

It’s believed to have been left incomplete Glorified to great extents, the expectations
since the Mughals invaded Gujarat in the are disappointingly unmatched when we
late 1500’s. The incomplete jali in the centre find the mosque in the traffic island where
was said to be the most ambitious and was the road coming from Nehru Bridge,
planned to be more delicate and intricate Relief Road and the road towards Bhadra
than the ones beside it, that’s why it was coincide. Creating a one-way traffic route
left for the last. The twin jalis beside it are around, a part-welcome relief from the
carved from a single stone in style of a tree chaotic vehicular movement that was
with palm leaves and curved tendrils. This there before, the unpretentious small
carving is famously known as the “The Tree mosque at first glance does not seem to
of Life”. Wooden models of these windows offer anything extraordinary. It’s a big let-
which are a fine example of a symbiotic down to see the jali submerged in all the
synthesis of Hindu and Muslim elements in traffic. Art loses its frame in the mundane
architecture of those times are kept in New ambience of everyday things.
York and Keningston museums.

Art loses its frame in the mundane ambience of

everyday things.
32 what do you see?

The fore court of the mosque has a dargah sweating in the afternoon sun of
and a small pond for ablutions (ritual Ahmedabad, as he squinted to see the jaali.
cleansing) before the prayers. Two steps He walked around and took a couple of
lead to the main prayer hall which is an pictures. His entire experience was over in
arcade of five arches. A young devotee less than five minutes!
tying his shoelaces, tells me that they light
up the entire place during the festivities of
Ramzan. When I ask him specifically about
the jali, he says that he feels peaceful while
reading the namaz.

The jali is on the qibla wall (the wall that

faces the Mecca) and you can see the pride
in his eyes as he looks back again to point
towards the “Tree of Life” for me.

Adjoining the premises is a garden

developed by the AMC which lies unused
and only serves as rest spots for beggars
who sit on the footpath, outside its wire-
meshed fencing. Negligence is clearly seen.
As one keeps walking along the pavement,
it terminates into a large paved area where
a few cars are parked. The rear end of the
mosque is fenced and and the view of the
ornate jail is obstructed by steel mesh.

Another devotee engages me in

converastion, as I go around clicking
pictures, points out that its strange that
the government decides to actively pursue
projects in the new city and neglect the
ones in need, the historical ones. Since he
has been visiting since a lot of years, he
recalls that the AMC hasn’t taken up any
maintence of the garden and its landscape. Above: Context around the mosque,
It’s been closed for quite some years. unused spaces, lack of maintenance
As I was leaving, I observed a tourist Facing page:The qibla wall
33
34 what do you see?

The 600 year old city is vying for the the rich cultural experience that these
UNESCO tag of a world heritage city monuments give us? It is not a fall out
proudly touting the architectural legacy of institutional pettiness or rivalry as the
left behind by the Sultanate, Mughals, government would want us to believe. It
Marathas and the British. However, it has is intolerable apathy and ignorance. This
been denying the status due for the jalis does not befit the city that claims to be on
of Sidi Saiyyed. By placing it in a setting the forefront of innovative city planning
of mundane everythng things, art loses its and urban development. Sidi Saiyyed
essence. why has the heritage department requires the attention it deserves. ◆
of the AMC or the ASI disregarded

“In a banal setting at an inconvenient time, would beauty

transcend?”
 35

GUGHAPRIYAA ELANGO | FORTUNE FINDER

a potential image unrealised

?
is the place being

SHADOWED
over
36 what do you see?

E very building of Le Corbusier in

India, for that matter, in the world
has become a place of pilgrimage . Cities
Amidst the congestion of the Paldi street
on the riverside, anchors the modernist
bulky building, impermeable and aloof.
that own a Corbusier building immensely
value and showcase it. But, in Ahmedabad, The site is surrounded by various places
strangely, an important building designed like National Institute of Design, city bus
by him stands neglected. stand, community hall, Tagore hall and
different housing units. Commissioned by
Sanskar Kendra was designed by Corbusier Chinubhai Chimanbhai, the then Mayor of
as a city museum in 1954. The museum Ahmedabad, Sanskar Kendra is one the
is not known to many and is least visited. five buildings constructed by Corbusier in
What is the reason for this sad state of Ahmedabad. Prior to its identity as The
affairs? Is the problem with Corbusier’s city museum, Sanskar Kendra was known
design? Did he build a building that most as N.C. Mehta museum of miniatures.
are not able to engage with? Or is the After the demise of N.C. Mehta, a pioneer
problem with the way the building is used in miniature paintings, his collection was
and identified with? donated to the Museum of Indology, now
known as Lalbhai Dhalpatbhai Museum.
 37

Later, in 1985, this building was converted Top left : Entrance ramp
Top right : Central court
into a kite museum, which houses kites
Facing page : View from north-west
from all over the world. Page 35: Sanskar kendra from south-west

After this, in 1992,this building was Moving up the ramp, dramatically dawns
expanded to include museum of the upon you, the grandeur of the central court.
city, freedom movement, textile, craft, Meandering through the linear galleries,
architecture and Gujarati literature . orchestrating a narrative of Ahmadabad,
The second floor serves the purpose of one gets teleported in the building. We can
elections. easily make way through
the exposed concrete and brick in-fill panels
This museum is a simple design. It is a which serves as a mundane backdrop for
cuboid which is divided into two, with the the art. The alternate single and double
lower portion forming a base. The upper height spaces, break the monotony of Le
mass of bricks is punctured through the Corbusier’s modular spaces.
centre. This puncture imparts a vertical
dimension to the building. The solid base is There is no formal entry point but only
converted to pilotis which gives the whole a central court from where the building
building an impression of a floating mass. commences. The building does not fail to
The heaviness seems heavier as it rests on impose the timelessness of its bricks. It is
slender columns. elegant and appealing.
38 what do you see?

However, the periphery of the building

complex has fallen prey to encroachment.
The museum is unknown to many and
hardly gets visitors. As a representative
of the city’s rich history which houses
Ahmedabad’s cultural wealth, it should
have been a well known place occupying a
significant position in the city.

What has happened to Sanskar Kendra?

Has the place been overshadowed by the
other places of heritage?

Or has it lost its charm and needs

reinterpretation in the contemporary
situation? Or is it because, after 1992
when the building was taken over by the Sanskar Kendra stands as an isolated
Ahmedabad Municipal Corporation, the object. A mere act of changing the name
museum has been neglected and hardly to a local language - ‘Sanskar Kendra’
promoted? does not transform it into a civic centre. It
requires more conversation with the nearby
The problem, to begin with, could be places. With several thousand sculptures
in the design and its aesthetic appeal. set in large mosaic courtyards linked by
Corbusier’s signature seems to outweigh paths and deep gorges, Rock garden of
the local context. Among his buildings in Chandigarh was aesthetically revitalised.
Ahmedabad, there are certain fundamental
characteristics that surface repeatedly,
regardless of the function or spatial type.
The pilotis, long ramps, louvers, exposed
material are common signature features of
all his buildings. They do not engage with
the local identity, and the building is more
of a mechanised entity. As if the soberness
of the exterior has not been enough, the
galleries of Sanskar Kendra are poorly
preserved. The museum fails to stimulate
interpretations among the audience due to
its sensory ambience.
 39

What strikes is the fact that, being the city with second most
number of museums, Ahmedabad ironically portrays
‘silent buildings’.
This counter-interpretation with another As a first step we can free Sanskar
art could change the life around Sanskar Kendra from the indifferent Ahmedabad
Kendra. Part of the problem is also because Municipal Corporation and take it
it is a museum, an institution that has not closer to the people. A little ingenuity
engaged with people. Museums that started and resourcefulness can go a long way
during colonial times have never made in maintaining the building. There is a
efforts to connect with its audience. They need for an urgent reinterpretation of its
are merely functioning as a storehouse function as a social space for all classes of
of old objects. Like the objects it houses, people. The building could act as a social
museums are dead with a funereal tool to bring about the active participation
ambience. It is time to reinvent museums in of the people, by pulling in nearby
general and Sanskar Kendra in particular. activities. ◆
Below : Displaying galleries
Facing page above: Encroachment in centeal court
Facing page below: Pilotis
40 what do you see?

NAMRATA RANE | LAND-LOCKED MERMAID

trending lake front

L akes are a vital part of a city. In India

however, water bodies are much
maligned, ignored, and least connected
with public life. They remain less accessible
and unexplored. Exception to this is the
Kankaria Lake.

is this ?
template
a
 41

T he famous artificial lake of Kankaria

is built in the southern part of
Ahmedabad city in Maninagar area. This
lake has been revamped in 2008 and
developed to serve as a public space. It
enriches the historical, social, cultural and
ecological aspects of the city. Initially built
to serve as bathing area for the kings,
this lake and the area around, is now an
amusement park for the citizens. Right
through the day Kankaria Lake Front is
busy entertaining people of Ahmedabad
and numerous other visitors. It is well
conserved and carefully developed
providing various amenities such as open-
air amphitheatre, fountain show, zoo,
amusement park and more.

As you enter through the narrow access

way of the huge Balvatika gate into the
Kankaria premises you are welcomed by
the sight of brightly painted walls, joyous
screeches of the enthusiasts on the roller
coaster ride and the overpowering smell of Above: Early risers at the Kankaria Lakefront
Below: Steps along the Kankaria Lake
the popcorn. The Amrapali Funland near
the entrance hosts numerous rides.
42 what do you see?

These adventurous rides engage everyone,

be it the excited participants or the anxious
spectators. The man at the ticket counter is
kept busy throughout the day by the long
eager queue. Your wandering, confused
eyes are kept engrossed and the pathway
takes you forward. Mural on the walls
parallel to the pathway depict the history
of Gujarat, giving you an insight of the
past and then gently drops you into the
present as the pathway concludes. The
sight and the siren of the Atal Express,
train that goes around the Kankaria Lake,
cross your route towards the promenade.
The promenade surrounds the lake. Also
lateral to it is the low parapet wall that
facilitates sitting, ensuring an astonishing Top: Food stalls at the Kankaria Lakefront
view. View of the lake with Naginawadi in Above: Kid’s play area

the centre, is the highlight. Facing page: Powai Lake, Mumbai

 43

The Naginawadi is an island comprising Jaldhara Water Park in the premises of

of gardens and an open air amphitheatre Kankaria Lake. The balloon ride in the
connected to the shore by a bridge. This Ahmedabad Eye lets you have an amazing
amphitheatre hosts a fountain show many view of the lake; so much different than
times during the evening and is loved by what the colourfully lit steps at the edges
the audience. of the lake. The Kankaria also hosts an
annual festival The Kankaria Carnival.
The monotony of the long path towards This fest is held for a week in the month
the amphitheatre is broken by the of December and is attended by many.
delighting water cascades. Also on both
sides of this pathway are gardens with It is such events that bring people
provision for sitting under tensile roofs together. It allows the busy people of
that let you have a wonderful experience, Indian cities to add spice to everyday
amidst the green, enclosed by blue. bland life. The nature of development has
allowed people from all income groups to
If staring into the depths of water is not enjoy the space equally. These factors have
enough then one can definitely avail the made Kankaria important and part of the
motor boating facilities or other water city identity.
sports like zorbing and more at the
44 what do you see?

As a proud resident of Mumbai, who Such important assets have to remain as

always thought of Mumbai as better true public space open to everyone. The
developed city, a visit to Kankaria provoked lake front is elitist in its orientation. It is
me to reflect on the state of the lakes back surrounded by expensive commercial and
home. I was surprised and disappointed residential areas. Also the eateries and
to realise that there is not any lakefront cafes near the lake front are expensive and
in the celebrated metropolis of Mumbai beyond the reach of common Mumbaikars.
that matched Kankaria. The artificial lake It is not a place many people find comfort-
of Powai, spread across 520 acres of land, table visiting. Also few influential people
in northern suburbs of Mumbai with its have introduced boat houses in the lake and
clean water and opulent surroundings is prohibit the fishermen to practice fishing,
a major source of water. However this which is permited. Thus this lake despite
important asset of the city of millions is being vital to the city is not an integral part
often found lifeless without people around. of Mumbai or its image.
The walkway in the limited parts of Powai
Lake and garden besides only manage to Powai has a lesson to learn from Kankaria
attract a few fitness conscious people every if it wants to be sought after public place
morning. But it fails to keep the visitors and be meaningful to the citizens of
entertained otherwise.Lake Front is not Mumbai.The Powai Lake and many other
accessible from all places. These structures such water bodies must be treated as public
along the banks have fenced off portions assets and developed as welcoming public
of lakefront. spaces. The lakes are meant to be that. ◆

Night view of the Powai Lake

 45

DEVASHISH PANDYA | HAPPY-GO-LUCKY

chai with the dead

L ucky restaurant is a small dhaba

type eatery that is located at one
of the roadside corners near Siddi Sayed
mosque in old Ahmedabad. The restaurant
looks like any other inexpensive diner,
which has off-white walls with graphical
where people

DIEchai
posters of menus, plain tables and chairs.
The eatery serves local specialties in
to have unornamented crockery, nothing exotic. It
appears like other roadside food joint, till
you get a closer look of it.

and bun-maska
46 what do you see?

A dozen odd, 600 year old graves

share space with the furniture inside
this greasy spoon joint. One of it’s walls
is adorned by a million dollar original
art work by the acclaimed artist M.F.
Hussain which adds to the paradox of the
experience, the dead sleep quiet within the
graves while the living enjoy snacks above.
Such a juxtaposition of contrasts makes
the Lucky restaurant something unique. It
is not just another Indian hashery. In many
ways this place captures the eccentric side
of the city.

A large banner cries out loud the name of

a multinational soft drink with ‘New Lucky
Top: View of Lucky cafe from the street
Restaurant’ written below in a relatively Above: Chai and jam maska bun
smaller font. This can be seen, as one Facing page: Inside the cafe, eating beside the grave
approaches it through a web of roads,
which connects Nehru Bridge at one end,
House of M.G. and Electricity House at
the other. The Siddi Saiyyed Mosque acts as
a little traffic island.
 47

The restaurant building, of ordinary What is amusing is to see middle aged men
construction, sits on a stepped high discussing politics over a cup of masala
plinth. The front façade, facing the road, chai with maskabun, a couple quietly lost
is completely open with no walls or in conversation and stopping just to have
any partitioning elements. People from a bite of idli from their plates, groups of
different sections of society, with majority young people quipping over glasses of
of Muslim and lower middle class people, lemonade and a few women clicking a selfie
throng the pan parlour division and while waiting for food to be served as if all
the juice counter at the entrance of the those graves are non-existent. Waiters for
restaurant. Next to the juice counter are their part, swiftly maneuver customer orders
two narrow horizontal cuboids on the through this exceptionally grave furniture.
plinth. Each is about two meter long,
covered with garish shawl and fenced with Another surprise is in store for the visitors.
iron rods. After going through a fanciful experience
while dining, they would be awestruck
Those visiting the restaurant for first time by the signature on the left hand corner
would assume that the cuboids are some of an original artwork framed and hung
stagnant piece of furniture. But a second on the central wall of the restaurant. The
glance would reveal something unexpected signature spells out “M.F. Hussain.”, who
and could even shock some. They are not was a regular customer and had gifted the
furniture pieces, but graves. painting to Krishnan Kutti.
48 what do you see?

He used to sit for hours, thinking, Fine dining seems to determine a City’s
sketching, or chatting with his friends. It is image when it comes to restaurants. With
said that he loved the masala chai so much time, innovations in dining experience are
that it was packed and sent to Dubai when bound to come. People would seek new
he was in self imposed exile there. cuisines and look for new places to visit.
But in this celebration people have sort
Lucky restaurant was opened by K.H. of predefined the fine dining impression
Mohammed with the assistance of a restaurant has neglecting other disguised
Krishnan Kutti Nayar in the 1950s as a impressions. Places such as Lucky not only
small tea stall under a tree surrounded by add such impressions but also contribute
graves. As the business grew, they started their share to special flavours and colors to
expanding in the graveyard itself. Today, the the city. Ignoring them would undermine
tea stall has transformed into a restaurant the kaleidoscopic image of a city.
by encroaching into the graveyard but not
disturbing the graves and that tree still People may crib that Lucky is mediocre
stands inside the restaurant shooting up in terms of décor and exotic food when
through a hole in the ceiling. compared with other restaurants. But they
List of visitors to the restaurant includes are missing the point that such diners
a few local artists, patrons from the too can provide a rich experience. It may
architecture and design field, some elite appear quirky with its graves and the M.F.
people and a few tourists alongside the Hussain painting but Lucky is as important
usual patrons from the lower middle class to Ahmedabad as any other high end
neighborhood. Despite possessing such restaurants.
unique attributes Lucky is not listed as a must
visit restaurant in the city guides, nor does it
figure in the postcard images of the city.

Ahmedabad is one of the fastest growing

cities in India. It aspires to showcase itself
as globalized city and a cosmopolitan place.
It increasingly takes pride in glittering malls
and restaurants that serve exotic global
cuisine or highly ethnic fare. If asked
to list the most prominent eating places
in Ahmedabad, many would, without
batting an eyelid, recall restaurants like
Vishala, Amazo, Patang, Jungle bhook,
Uppercrust and Waterside to name a few.
 49

Fine dining is common place and they are

like few bricks in the wall which makes the
image of the city. Fine dining is common
place and every city has many of them.
But places such as Lucky acts as one of
the ingredients which makes a city like
Ahmedabad special and unique than others.

Next time when the city food guides are

written and people talk about city images
Lucky deserves to sit alongside Agashiye,
Souq or Manek Chowk.◆

Top: The old tree

Left: The Hussain painting
Facing page: Arrangement of graves
and tables

Though every city in India has fine dining, theme based

or ethnic restaurants with exotic specialities, but it’s only
Ahmedabad which luckily has Lucky
50 what do you see?

APURWA AGRAWAL | THE SHOW STOPPER

old space, new performance!

!
diluted
W hen it began as a Bharatnatiyam
Dance School in 1949,Natarani had

focus
the vision of turning into a prominent art
centre in Ahmedabad. In the sixty years
since it was built, it has changed and grown
with the city. The question is whether the
changes in architecture and the spaces of
Natarani have measured up to its original
vision and promise?
 51

N atarani also known as Darpana

Academy of Performing Arts is now
a recognised public platform for artists
from different fields. Mrunalini Sarabhai, a
renowned Bharatnatiyam Dancer and her
husband, Dr.Vikram Sarabhai, envisioned
and realised this institute; designed by the
eminent architect Achyut Kanvinde.Since
Mallika Sarabhai (daughter of Mrunalini
Sarabhai) took over the academy in 1974,
the academy has significantly grown from a
Dance School to a Performing Art Centre. The performing arts are a form of
expression which is an inseparable blend of
The institute, located on the Sabarmati drama, art, music, and dance. It acts like a
River Front, has earthy red walls, modest mirror to the society; reflecting the history
buildingsand huge trees shading the and culture of the people and the place.
open spaces. Natarani is an interlinked
campus consisting of a teaching academy, The idea of the performing arts initiated
residence, cafe and an amphitheatre that by Mallika Sarabhai brought out voices and
has a view of the river. The place is calm, sent social messages against the challenges
having small interactive spaces and is built ofwomen’s empowerment, dowry and
in an environment friendly manner, with child labour.Performances conducted by
materials like recycled broken glass and tiles Darpana connectand became popularwith
to decorate that mud walls. the people.

This popularity brought the crowd to

Darpana academy and the institute
neededmore space for performances.
Natarani, the Amphitheatre was added to
the academy in 1995 as a gift to Mrunalini
Sarabhai from her daughter, Mallika
Sarabhai. The Cafe and Amphitheatre was
designed by practising architect Kirtee Shah.

Above: The Natarani Entrance

Left: The Natarani Amphitheatre

Facing page: The Dance Hall

52 what do you see?

T he core of the Darpana campus is the

Academy. It has an open dance hall
enclosed by rooms like the costume room,
theatre room and a library in the ground
floor. The second floor has the residence
of Mallika Sarabhai, where she still spends
most of her time.

The open dance hall was designed to meet

the limited requirements of teaching the
Bharatnatiyam dance. Music, puppetry
and drama were the major additions that
made Darpana a performing art academy.
Later, dance forms like Kalaripayattu
(dance of martial arts) and contemporary
The Natarani Amphitheatre, which was dance forms were added. These additions
added to the academy later, has the same required better specifications for flooring,
character as the academy building. The acoustically treated performance rooms for
earthy red wall, the stone floors and open music and separate space for arts. However,
space compliment the older building. the academy neither added more space for
practicing nor improved the amenities.
Earlier, when the amphitheatre was built,
the steep steps of the amphitheatre which
was a visual surprise to the visitor ended
in a grand view of the river. The recent
developments on the river front have
hindered the clear view of the river that lies
behind the stage.

Natarani is a culturally important platform

in Ahmedabad that attracts skilled artists
around the country to collaborate and
perform. As a result, the plays at the
Natarani Amphitheatre are culturally rich
and engaging for people of all ages and
interests. The amphitheatre and cafe are
now the lifeline and form a major part of
the attraction for Natarani.
 53

More people know Natarani now not because of its

reputation as a dance school but because of Natarani Cafe

If the Academy has to function well, Movement Arts (Bangalore), Natarani

it should not only expand the facilities, does not appear to be a serious institute.
but also meet the different specifications They offer mostly crash courses and a few
and requirements of each dance and diploma courses. The regular classes seem
art form; the flooring which should be to suffer because they do not have adequate
either sprung or hard, the music practice practice space and the academy does not
rooms should acoustically soundproof have plans for any extensions yet.
and well equipped with wall mirrors for
rehearsals.Instead of paying attention to its Natarani is more known to people now
expanding requirements and campus design, than when it started. It is not because of its
unfortunately, the Academy has expanded reputation as a dance school, but because of
without a serious focus. The Natarani Cafe, which attracts people tof
different ages.
When I compare it to other schools of
performing arts in the country such as Below: Open rehearsal hall
Nityagram (Bangalore), Kalakshetra Facing page left: Steps of Amphitheatre
(Chennai) and Attakkalari Centre for Facing page right: View of dancehall facing the river
54 what do you see?

Darpana can claim in its favour that the it has not become the cultural force it could
plays and the cafe bring in more people to have been.
the place. This may be partially true. But
the sad fact is that people know about the Darpana could build on its merits and
history of Natarani as a Dance School accomplishments. Unlike other performing
through their visits to the cafe than the institutes mentioned earlier, it is more open
other way around. and attracts a larger section of public.

Its dilution as a cultural force was evident It can build on this and the challenges
recently, when AMC decided to widen posed can be turned into opportunities
the road behind the amphitheatre stage and to reinvent itself. It can become a sought
make it a noisy public road teeming with after performing space that connects with
cars. Mallika Sarabhai protested and started people culturally. This can be made possible
a campaign against this but not many people by investing on design and exploring the
responded. Darpana may have been hosting potential of architecture to recreate the
cultural performances and contributing to image of the academy of a greater value to
the city in certain ways, but the city. ◆
 55

change the way you look at things

the things you look at will change
56 what do you see?

Acknowledgments
We would like to express our deep gratitude to the co-ordinators of the CEPT University Summer School 2015 for the
course “If pictures can speak, why write about architecture?” - Prof. A Srivathsan and Prof. Seema Khanwalkar for their
immense support, patience, individual attention, enthusiasm and the love they reinforced in us, for writing as well as
reading. This magazine would not have been possible without the guidance of :
Mr. Jalp Lakhia, manager and designer at MICA who helped us with the magazine layout design at dfferent stages.
Mrs. Nirupama Subramaniam, the Resident Editor of The Indian Express, Chandigarh
who taught us to ‘simplify’ our language.
Ar. Kaiwan Mehta, the Managing Editor at Domus India, who shared his experience with
‘discourse’ as practice in architecture.
Mr. Kannan Somasundaram, Senior Assistant Editor at Times of India, Ahmedabad, who enriched
us with some of his writing devices and helped us improve our essays.
We would also like to thank the T.A’s-Manasi Chokshi and Parshati Dutta and our fellow classmates
in this course whose presence made the course more enjoyable.
Cover page illustration adapted from Ambika Sambasivan, waglikeamotmot.wordpress.com
Picture Courtesy - Editorial Page – Parshati Dutta

Copyright and Disclaimer

Copyright @ Summer School, 2015, CEPT University.

The views and opinions expressed in these articles are those of the authors and do not
reflect that of the Institute.All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be
reproduced, stored in, or introduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted in any
form or by any means without prior written permission.