MFW March Portfolio
MFW March Portfolio
MFW March Portfolio
France
Loire – Pays Nantais
Domaine de la Bregeonnette
Joseph Orieux founded this domaine in the town of Vallet in the 1960's and has been organic from the start, recently becoming certified (only 12
producers out of 600+ actually have the certification). Today, Joseph's grandson, Stéphane Orieux upholds his family's traditions of organic farming,
hand-harvesting, wild yeast fermentations, and long, sur-lie aging. Due to the many decades of experience, Bregeonnette has become a reference
point for other winemakers in the region who want to learn how to work organically in the vines. Even Marc Ollivier of Domaine de la Pépière consults
Stéphane when he has questions about organic treatments. The same care and dedication to quality is present throughout the entire range of wines.
Everything is harvested by hand, including the Gros Plant, and the top, single-parcel wine, "Clos de la Coudray", spends 18 months sur-lie.
Loire – Anjou-Saumur
Bertin-Delatte
In the past decade or so, the town of Rablay-sur-Layon has become a small hub for dedicated young winemakers in the Loire Valley. There’s a strong
community spirit – each year the town organizes a small music festival, and there is a cooperative grocery store in the town center. Geneviève Delatte
and Nicolas Bertin started out in the area working for other winemakers, and in 2008, they purchased their own small vineyard, a 1.5ha lieu-dit named
"L’Echalier". In 2012 they built a small home and winery at the edge of their vines and found a few other small vineyards in the hills around Rablay.
The winemaking philosophy is to keep things simple; accompany the vines, the grapes, and the wine. Spend a lot of time observing, intervene as little
as possible.
Mélaric
Aymeric Hillaire and Mélanie Cunin originally met while studying enology in Montpellier, and then traveled the world together, making wine in both
hemispheres, and racking up some impressive work experience along the way with people like Château Pradeaux in Bandol, Château Guiraud in
Sauternes, and, most notably, Bernard Baudry in Chinon. Inspired by Baudry, in 2006 the two would return to Aymeric's hometown within the new
appellation of Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame, and slowly built up their vineyard holdings to the 4ha they have today, naming their new winery Mélaric (a
combination of their two names). They purchased two notable lieux-dits, "Billes de Roche" and "Clos de la Cerisae", and immediately converted
everything to organics, and followed up with the introduction of biodynamics. The vineyards are planted on shallow clay soils with a base of pure
limestone chalk beneath, which was the basis for awarding this area it's own AOP. Vines are very old (average age is 45-50 years old), and are
mostly Chenin Blanc (2.7ha), with the rest being Cabernet Franc (1.3ha), plus a touch of Grolleau. Their philosophy is to work meticulously in the
vineyard, carrying out much of the work by hand with the help of a horse. Harvesting is also by hand, and Aymeric favors minimal interventions in
winemaking, with no additions of enzymes or cultured yeasts. The wines are raised in old (4-8 years), 400L barrels, and get just a small dose of SO2
at bottling. These are wines of purity and elegance, with a fresh structure imparted by the limestone soils. Although the appellation may be new,
Aymeric and Mélanie are already showing that the terroir of Puy-Notre-Dame has something special to say.
Loire – Touraine
Domaine Courtault-Tardieux
As a teenager, Simon Tardieux began working in the vines of Catherine Roussel and Didier Barrouillet of Clos Roche Blanche. After university and a
short stint as a social worker, Simon decided to return to his hometown and get back to his true calling: working outside in the vines. The only problem
was that he didn’t have any vineyards. So, he teamed up with his neighbor, Alain Courtault, who has long been practicing organics (Alain was the
third producer in the region to practice organic viticulture, starting back in 1998). Together, they make a range of simple, eminently drinkable wines.
Domaine Guion
There are few properties in France that can boast such a great pioneering legacy in organic farming as Domaine Guion. In the 1950’s, the Guion
family established their farm in the heart of the Bourgueil appellation, a stone’s throw from the banks of the Loire River. Since it was a polycultural
estate, the family was able to live almost entirely off the land. By 1965, they began farming organically, with a holistic understanding of its effects far
ahead of their time. Since taking the reins from his father in 1990, Stéphane Guion has a put a much greater emphasis on viticulture, managing 8.5ha
of land. Quiet and curious, he is a well-respected member of the vigneron community in Bourgueil and is often consulted by other growers eager to
adopt organic farming practices. While Stéphane rarely appears at tastings and trade shows, it is clear that the extra time in the vineyards and cellars
is well spent. Situated on meticulously cultivated clay and limestone soils, the Guions’ vineyards range from 10-80 years old, with the younger vines
designated for the “Cuvée Domaine” and the older for the “Cuvée Prestige”. Stéphane prunes the buds rather than clusters to achieve a judicious
yield and hand harvests all of his fruit. In the cellar, he only employs native yeasts and allows a moderate maceration of the grapes. Once the bottles
are ready for aging, they are stored in a large cave shared with six other families that once served as a historic Resistance hideout during World War
II. Rustic, focused, and lively, with fresh acidity and minerality, the wines of Domaine Guion are known for their fine tannins, great aging potential, and
terrific price.
Les Capriades
Pascal Potaire and Moses Gadouche of Les Capriades are known as "Les Rois du Pét-Nat" (the Kings of Pét-Nat) in France. Their expertise on the
subject makes them a reference for winemakers who want to learn to raise and handle of cuvée of natural bubbly. While pét-nat started mostly as a
way for winemakers to make bubbles without sending it off to a champagnisateur, Pascal and Moses have elevated it, and in fact, 95% of their total
production is pét-nat. If you've ever tried one of the wines, you already know what we are talking about. If you haven't, consider this: every single
maker in the Loire that makes a pétillant naturel makes it with Les Capriades in mind. There are no other pét-nats that will keep as long open
(seriously, a bottle can stay open in your fridge with no cork for 2 days, and still have the same amount of bubbles), that will age as well, or that are
more balanced, more refreshing. Made with all organic grapes from Touraine, no sulfur, no yeasting, no dosage, no nothing.
Ludovic Chanson
Having always had a passion for wine, Ludovic Chanson decided to leave his job in pharmaceutical research in 2007 and went to work for the
renowned Vouvray producer Vincent Carême. In 2008, he was able to purchase a 6.2ha property on the plateau near the village of Husseau, about a
five-minute drive outside of Montlouis on the left bank of the Loire River opposite Vouvray. The property is primarily planted to Chenin Blanc (5ha), but
there are also small plots of both Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. Soils here are very clay heavy with a deep limestone base, and many of the
parcels are littered with silex and flint. The average vine age is 40 years-old, and the estate was converted to organic farming in 2006 before Ludovic
took over, and he has since achieved organic certification. Harvesting is done by hand in small baskets in one pass for the Sauvignon Blanc and
Chardonnay, and multiple passes for the Chenin Blanc depending on the cuvée for which the grapes are being picked. Since Chanson’s first solo
vintage in 2009, he has always used native yeasts for fermentations, with no chaptalization, no enzymes or bentonite, and low to no sulfur additions.
Ludovic makes a full range of wines ranging from bone dry to demi-sec to pét-nats, all of which are pure expressions of Montlouis terrior.
Michel Autran
Although his first official vintage wasn’t until 2013, Michel Autran is already making a name for himself as one of the top producers in Vouvray. This
didn’t just happen out of the blue though, as Michel has quietly been putting in the work behind the scenes for many years now. Michel started off as
a doctor, working in emergency medicine for nearly 20 years, but somewhere along the way the wine bug bit. Despite being in his 40s, Michel
eventually decided a career change was the only solution and he set about acquiring the necessary experience, working with and learning from some
of the top Chenin producers in the world, people like François Pinon, Vincent Carême, the Joussets, Frantz Saumon, Ludovic Chanson, and more. In
2011, he was able to purchase just under 1ha of prime vineyards in Noizay to start, and slowly expanded to 3.8ha today. Farming is completely
organic, and due to the steepness of some of the plots a horse is necessary for the vineyard work. The vines are all very old, between 50-70 years,
and all replanting is with massale selection of old vines from Pinon. Harvesting is by hand and with multiple tries to ensure the small team of workers
make the best selection in the vineyard. Fermentation begins with native yeast in stainless steel before immediately being racked off by gravity into
barrel, some new, but most 4-12 years old and coming from friends like Carême or the late Stéphane Cossais. A small amount of sulfur is used at
débourbage if necessary, otherwise the wines are raised completely sans souffre. The resulting wines have it all: purity, elegant fruit, incredible length,
richness balanced by enamel-stripping acidity, and off-the-charts minerality.
Mikaël Bouges
Mikaël Bouges works a small, 8ha estate in the village of Faverolles-sur-Cher in Touraine. For years he labored on his father's estate in a neighboring
village, but after his father retired, Mikaël could not afford to buy his father’s share and was forced to look for new vineyard sites to establish his own
domaine. With the help of Catherine and Didier Barouillet of Clos Roche Blanche, Mikaël managed to acquire his current parcels of Côt, Sauvignon
Blanc, Menu Pineau, and Chenin that he farms organically. No additions except a small amount of SO2 at bottling.
Loire – Centre
Vincent Grall
Since 1999, Vincent Grall has quietly been making tiny amounts of Sancerre in his garage from 3.8ha of vines, making him the second smallest
producer in the region. The production is split between two white cuvées coming from two distinct sites that are each vinified and aged differently, per
the soil type. While the sites are blended, "Cuvée Tradition" is mostly from the silex soils around the main hill of Sancerre, Le Plateau, and is done
entirely in stainless. "Le Manoir" comes mostly from Le Manoir de L’Etang where the soils are more marl and clay, and is aged in 600L barrels that
are 3-4 years old. Although not certified, the soils are worked manually and organic treatments are used. The intention is to work as naturally as
possible in both the vineyards and the cellar, but they will intervene if they risk losing their crop in bad vintages. Unlike most Sancerre producers, all
harvesting is done by hand.
Alsace
Marc Tempé
Based in the small town of Zellenberg (population 300), Marc Tempé unapologetically crafts some of the most nuanced, terroir-expressive wines in
Alsace. The domaine was started in 1993 when Marc and his wife, Anne-Marie, combined vineyard holdings from both of their families, forming the
8.5ha of the domaine today. Initially working as a lab technician and vineyard expert for the INAO, Marc used his experience to immediately convert
the vines to biodynamics and has been an ardent practitioner since. After harvesting by hand, the fruit is pressed off extremely slowly, which helps
keep the natural acidity much higher than many in the region. Depending on the vineyard size, quality, or grape variety, fermentation occurs in either
old foudres or Burgundy barrels, and always with native yeast. In fact, when additional barrels are needed, Marc will only buy from growers who also
work biodynamically. The wines are then allowed to find their own balance, resting on their lees in barrel for a minimum of two years (some of the
Grand Crus age for nearly four years). Not only does Marc believe this helps emphasize terroir, but it also helps him keep sulfur levels as low as
possible. At bottling, there is no fining, and filtering only if necessary
Ruppert-Leroy
Ruppert-Leroy is an up-and-coming domaine started by the young Bénédicte Leroy, who is making some of the most exciting wines in the Aube today.
In the 1980s, the Leroy's decided to convert a clearing to vineyards when it was no longer economically viable to raise sheep on, initially selling all the
fruit to the local coop. After working with Bertrand Gautherot of Vouette et Sorbée, Bénédicte decided to quit her job as a PE teacher and take over
the domaine just as her father was getting ready to retire in 2009. She immediately converted the 4ha (not counting the garden or small pasture the
family still raises animals on) to organics and took all winemaking duties in-house, making wines inspired by her mentor. Now practicing biodynamics,
Bénédicte is focused on making wine in a method that is as simple as possible; each cuvée comes from a single vintage of a single vineyard, bottled
Brut Nature with no dosage.
Burgundy – Chablis
Domaine Gérard Duplessis
A family domaine for five generations now, Lilian is the latest vigneron of an estate created in 1895, taking over for his father Gérard in 1999. After
going to school and internships in the region (“There was no point in making Sauvignon blanc in New Zealand, I needed to know how to work
Chardonnay in Burgundy” he says), Lilian has turned the domaine into one of the very few organic estates in Chablis. Vinifications are done in
stainless steel, then most of the Premier Crus (all but Vaugiraut) and Grand Cru spend time in old barriques for élevage. All the wines are fermented
naturally and sulfured between 20 and 30 ppm at bottling. Lilian makes some of the purest, most terroir-driven wines in the region. "If there was a
category for the "best kept secret in Chablis", Domaine Duplessis would be one of my top two picks." - Allen Meadows, Burghound
Burgundy – Mâconnais
Domaine des Gandines
Domaine des Gandines was founded by Joseph Dananchet at the beginning of the 20th century. At the time, it was a polycultural farm like most
others in the area with cows, pigs, sheep, wheat, and a couple of hectares of vines. The property slowly expanded over the years, and in 2003,
Benjamin Dananchet – the 4th Dananchet generation – joined forces with his father, Robert, slowly bringing the vineyard holdings to 13ha they farm
today while also converting to organic viticulture (certified in 2009). Since 2011, they have even begun working biodynamically, which they feel helps
retain higher natural acidities. Benjamin was recently joined by his brother, Florent, who is now assisting in the cellar. Soils are an important focus of
the Dananchets' methodology for the enhancing the vine's nutrition. The family uses no herbicides on the ground, and the soils are plowed to give air
to the microorganisms while eliminating the grass without weed killers. In order to preserve the integrity of the grapes and avoid oxidation, all grapes
are harvested by hand. Grapes are pressed whole-cluster (no destemming) and are allowed to ferment slowly with native yeast, with the only addition
being a small amount of sulfur just before bottling.
Beaujolais
Bernard Vallette
From the deep south of Beaujolais in the village of Lachassagne, where the soils are clay and limestone as opposed to granite, Bernard Vallette is
biodynamically farming 6.5ha of land passed down through his family from his grandparents. The grapes are all hand harvested and fermented
with native yeasts using carbonic maceration and a comparatively lengthy aging in stainless steel. The resulting wines are charming and
immensely drinkable in their youth, but also develop nicely with a few years of age. No additions in the cellar (including sugar) and just a touch of
SO2 at bottling.
Roland Pignard
Hardly a newcomer to winemaking, Roland Pignard took over the family estate in 1977 and immediately turned towards organic practices. In 2004,
he and his wife Joëlle sold off most of the estate, retaining only 4.5ha to concentrate on better farming, and received organic (Ecocert) and then
biodynamic (Demeter) certification. Vineyard treatments rely on biodynamic preparations with minimal copper-sulfate, and all tilling is done by horse-
drawn implements so as to not compact the soil. Picking is done by a crew of 20 (the same pickers each year, which is very important says Roland)
and carbonic macerations are short (only 6 to 12 days depending on the cuvée) as Roland feels that long macerations can result in the development
of undesirable yeasts and bacterias, and gives wines that are too extracted. All the wines are aged in cement cuves (except one cuvée of Morgon
called "Tradition"), and no SO2 is used during fermentation or élevage, with a minimal dose added before bottling, giving a total of about 8-10mg/L.
The resulting wines have subtle, pure fruit with perfect acidity and a pronounced mineral character with graphite, stone and earthy qualities.
Jura
Domaine de Saint Pierre
After studying enology in Beaune and working several years at the cooperative in Pupillin, Fabrice Dodane started working at Domaine de Saint Pierre
in 1989 as manager. Fabrice took full control of the estate in 2011 after the untimely death of the former owner. The winery is based in the small town
of Matheny and covers approximately 6ha in the Arbois and Côtes du Jura AOCs with the vines planted in limestone and marl soils. Saint Pierre
achieved organic certification in 2012, having started conversion in 2002. All wines are fermented with native yeasts either in tank or neutral barrel.
Vinifications for the reds are done without the addition of sulfur, and the whites are done flawlessly in both the traditional sous voile method, as well
as topped-up, or ouillé style. These are clean, balanced expressions of their terroir, and drink almost too easily.
Domaine Dupasquier
David Dupasquier is a fifth generation winemaker at this ultra-traditional domaine. He and his sister Veronique run the domaine, but their Father Noel
is still very much involved in the vineyards and in the cellar. The vineyards are located in a southwestern lobe of the Savoie close to the Rhône Valley
in the town of Aimavigne, home to the incredibly steep "Marestel" cru, the most prestigious vineyard in the area. The vines benefit from steep, sun-
drenched slopes, primarily limestone soil, and the cooling effects of Lake Bourget. David works these vineyards with a tractor and by hand – the
Marestel vines entirely by hand, as it is too steep to work with a tractor. Plowing is done once per year for every other row as David believes that the
biodiversity this leaves in the vineyard is critical for the quality of wines. Harvest is by hand and clusters are hand selected. The word “traditional”
invariably gets used when Dupasquier’s wines come up in conversation. There are many reasons for this, one being that the wines see quite a long
period of aging in old, neutral barrel and in bottle before release. In other regions, this type of regimen might not be so unusual, but it certainly is in
the Savoie, where the typical wine is fermented with added yeast and vinified quickly in stainless steel. This brings us to another aspect of the
Dupasquier’s traditionalism: all the wines are fermented with native yeast, and even in the coldest years, they don’t inoculate. The style of these
wines absolutely reflects the place, as well as the vineyard and cellar work. There’s a warmth and ripeness to the wines that calls the Rhône Valley to
mind, yet with freshness, acidity, and cut reminiscent of the Savoie.
Nicolas Gonin
Located between Lyon and Grenoble, the Isère is just now gaining attention for its wines. Part of the attention is because of young growers like
Nicolas, who are seeking out and rediscovering the great, noble grapes of the past that (mostly for political and economic reasons) have been
abandoned in favor of the more well-known grapes of France. Nicolas discovered the 'cépages anciens' while working at Domaine Tempier in Bandol,
where he found a book that outlined the great old grapes of all the regions of France. Nicolas was hooked, and he now spends his weekends seeking
out old vineyards in France to find cuttings of these grapes. Nicolas currently owns part of the only 10ha of Persan that exist in the world, and will
soon make wine from grapes like Bia and Mècle de Bourgin. The vineyards are all certified organic, and fermentation and aging are exclusively in
enamel tank in order to give a true, unobstructed taste of these ancient varieties.
Domaine du Chapitre
Frédéric Dorthe runs his family's 20ha of vineyards located on the right bank of the Rhône River in the picturesque town of Saint-Marcel d'Ardèche.
Due to long-standing contracts to sell most of his fruit, Fred's domaine has flown under the radar for a long time. On the bright side, this allows him
to make small amounts of honest, highly-drinkable wines from Southern Rhône grapes fermented and aged in cement with no additions except a
small amount of SO2 at bottling, and sell them for a song.
Domaine du Trapadis
The history of Domaine du Trapadis dates back four generations to 1850, with present vineyard owner Helen Durand’s two great-grandfathers each
owning a part of the land that together forms the 23ha of the domaine today. Trapadis is derived from the word 'trapalas', which means 'hole' in the
local dialect, a reference to the underground cave and natural spring located below the vines that provides water to the surrounding hamlet near the
village of Rasteau. Helen began to produce and bottle the wines of Trapadis at the young age of 16, and since 1996, he has complete control of the
domaine. The average age of the vines is 35 years, with the oldest parcel having been planted in 1922. Farming is all organic (certified since 2010),
with some biodynamic principles applied, and much of the work in the vineyards is carried out by horse. All the fruit is carefully hand harvested and
sorted before natural fermentation and aging in the original concrete vats.
Mas Foulaquier
Winemaker Pierre Jéquier, a native of Switzerland and formerly an architect, created Mas Foulaquier in 1998 following an exhaustive search for his
dream wine estate. Situated in the most northerly corner of Languedoc's most northerly appellation, Pic Saint-Loup, the 8ha of existing vines were at
the time just 8 years old, but happened to be planted on some great terroir. Now, at more than 25 years of age, those vines are the source of a quite
brilliant set of wines. Pierre's wife and fellow winemaker, Blandine Chauchet, joined the team in 2003, bringing with her the ownership of a further 3ha
of 50+ year-old Grenache and Carignan in the lieu-dit of "Les Tonillières". The vines are certified organic, and since 2007, are also certified
biodynamic by Demeter. In the cellar, the wines all are raised in Foulaquier’s signature, low-intervention style – native yeasts, no filtering, and minimal
sulfur added only at bottling.
Château La Colombière
Diane and Philippe Cauvin run Château La Colombière in the Fronton AOP of southwest France. After taking over the family domaine in 2005, the
Cauvins have worked tremendously hard to get the vineyards to where they are today and continue to work in a natural direction, favoring quality over
quantity (a rarity in this area). There are a total of 13ha of vines farmed organically (Ecocert certified), and they have even worked biodynamically
since 2010. Most of the plantings are of the local Négrette grape, but there is also some Gamay, Malbec, and Syrah, plus a white grape that is
technically not yet allowed to appear on a label, called Bouysselet. All of the wines come from 15-55 year old vines and ferment in cement or stainless
with no additions other than SO2 at bottling. Always experimenting, the Cauvins have even begun making a pét-nat rosé from Négrette!
Domaine Séailles
Domaine Séailles is one of the pioneers of organic viticulture in the Côtes de Gascogne region of Southwest France. A family-owned estate since
1961, Séailles is now run by Jean Labérenne, who lead the domaine to Ecocert organic certification in 1997, swearing off all chemical fertilizers,
herbicides, insecticides, and synthetic chemical products. Located in the town of Ténarèze, which is unique in the region for its limestone soils, Jean
farms a total of 25ha of hillside vineyards with help the of Julien Lanclet and Laurent Lefèvre, even saving 2ha of vines to make the traditional spirit
of the region, Armagnac. Both native yeast fermented, the reds are aged in cement tank, while the whites are all done in stainless.
Elian Da Ros
Historically, the region around Marmande has been more famous for tomatoes than for wine, but Elian Da Ros might change all that. Returning to
his native town of Cocumont in 1998, Elian constructed a simple winery and took the daring step of being the first winemaker to produce and bottle
his own wine under the Côtes du Marmandais AOP. Crafting superb, biodynamic wines from Bordeaux varieties as well as the local Abouriou,
Elian is one of those French vignerons that is universally respected by just about every other vigneron you talk with, regardless of their views on
agriculture and winemaking. These are some of the purest expressions of the limestone and gravel soils of the region, and display tremendous
elegance and finesse, even when working with grape varieties more famous for their masculinity and strength.
Corsica
Clos Marfisi
If you aren’t familiar with Corsica, the main event is Patrimonio. This AOP covers 400ha, with half of them being owned by the two largest producers,
and the other half split up amongst thirty smaller growers. If you haven’t already guessed, Clos Marfisi is part of the latter. Brother and sister Mathieu
and Julie Marfisi are the fifth generation at the helm of this estate, having taken over from their father, Touissant, when Julie returned in 2001, and her
brother in 2012, from having careers elsewhere in France. Clos Marfisi’s vineyards (which Touissant planted about 40-50 years ago) rise up from the
Mediterranean with southern and western exposures on steep slopes that are practically white with large chunks of broken up limestone. Equally
impressive is the fact that they never gave into outside pressure and the entirety of the estate is planted to local varieties; you won’t find any Grenache
here. Their father is still very active in the vineyards and is the main reason that the estate has also never been touched by pesticides or herbicides
(they will be certified organic by the 2018 vintage). Vestiges of the old guard remain in the cellar as well where native yeasts have always been used
for fermentations, and sulfur levels are kept to a minimum. Their commitment to honoring the past while shaping their own future is incredibly exciting
to us, and after years of not paying attention to Corsica, finding out what it really has to offer couldn’t make us happier.
Germany
Mosel
Hild
You’ve probably never heard of the “upper Mosel". I really hadn’t either, aside from mildly derogatory remarks made in passing. Some of this derision
is probably deserved: the upper Mosel has had a long tradition of selling grapes en masse to cooperatives interested in high yields, irrespective of
quality. However, this is also a fascinating place, a vision of the Mosel that has nothing to do with Riesling or slate. Here we find limestone (this is the
beginning of the Paris Basin, the geological reality that informs places like Chablis and Sancerre) and a winemaking culture based on one of Europe’s
oldest grapes: Elbling. Matthias Hild farms 5ha in the upper Mosel doing something that makes almost zero financial sense: saving old, terraced
parcels of Elbling. In this area, however, it’s important to understand Elbling is something of a religion. It’s a culture, a regional dialect that is spoken
through this wine of rigorous purity, of joyous simplicity, of toothsome acidity. Even at its best, Elbling is not a grape of “greatness” as much as it is a
grape of refreshment and honesty and conviviality. The comparisons are plenty, though none of them are quite right: If Riesling is Pinot Noir, then
Elbling is Gamay. If Riesling is Chenin Blanc, then Elbling is Muscadet. You get the idea. The joy of Elbling is its raucous acidity, the vigor and energy,
the fact that it is so low in alcohol you could probably drink a bottle and still operate heavy machinery.
Stein
While Ulli Stein’s wines are not widely known in the U.S., he has nothing less than a fanatical following in Europe. He could likely sell every last
bottle to his friends in Germany alone, yet there are places of some importance, like Noma in Copenhagen, that put in sizable orders for Stein
wine. He farms meaningful parcels of land that have a few important things in common: They are not easy to work. They are commercially
unknown. And, most importantly, Ulli loves them. In fact, Stein is more than a winemaker – he is a passionate advocate for the traditional, steep,
slate vineyards of the Mosel. In 2010, Ulli published a manifesto warning of the threats to the region’s 2000 years old viticultural tradition.
Winemaking with Ulli is refreshingly light on “style,” instead focusing on what the vineyards say to him. Certainly there is a focus on wines that are
dry; lightness and zip are more important than gobs of fruit. Complexity is good, but not at the expense of the whole – better to be simple and well
done than overdone and, well, a mess. Cut is more important than size.
Weiser-Künstler
Konstantin Weiser and Alexandra Künstler are as soulful as the vineyards they farm; this is a micro-estate with only 3ha under vine. Konstantin
and Alexandra do everything here, working in the vineyards daily. Situated in Traben-Trarbach, many of their vineyards fell into obscurity in the
latter half of the 20th century, which is not necessarily a bad thing. The fact is that these vines have not seen the “modernization” that many sites
in the Mosel have, which means these cliff-vineyards still have their jutting, ladder-like terraces. On these terraces, they have a high density of
very old, un-grafted vines. Weiser-Künstler makes wines exceptional Prädikat wines, but they also make dry wines – dainty angels carved from
mineral and slate that feel like porcelain in their weight and purity. As of 2015, they are moving towards complete organic certification.
Saar
Hofgut Falkenstein
The Weber family farms about 8ha of mainly old Riesling vines — over 40% ungrafted — in a side valley of the Saar, known as Tälchen (“little valley”).
In 1985, Erich Weber and his wife, Marita, built up the property of the then-dilapidated Falkensteinerhof (established in 1901) from scratch. All the
Riesling grapes are hand-harvested and the whole grapes are gently pressed in a pneumatic press for two to three hours. The musts are left
overnight to settle naturally and are vinified with ambient yeasts exclusively in old oak 1,000-liter Fuder casks. Their top vineyard sites are located on
various south-facing hillsides of primarily gray slate with some quartz, including the once highly prized sites of Niedermenniger Herrenberg,
Niedermenniger Sonnenberg, Krettnacher Euchariusberg, and Krettnacher Altenberg. The father-and-son team of Erich and Johannes Weber don’t
use herbicides and believe in low yields (one flat cane per vine) to produce an array of green-tinted, light-bodied, high-acid, unchaptalized dry
(trocken), off-dry (feinherb), and sweet Saar wines — all of which are cask-by-cask bottlings.
Rheingau
J.B. Becker
These wines taste like nothing else coming out of the Rheingau (or most anywhere for that matter) and Hans-Josef Becker just doesn’t give a fuck.
We struggled with a more elegant way of introducing this estate, some poignant lines describing the dirty-fingered, weathered-skin, mess-of-a-tasting-
room aesthetic of J.B. Becker. But at the heart of the matter, "HaJo", as his friends call him, will get up in the morning, go into his vineyards, and make
the kinds of wines he wants to make. And that’s about it. They are unflaggingly honest and present a vocabulary that few white wines can match: dried
earth and rocks, herbs, something vaguely subterranean, a savory, briny, smoky atmosphere that slowly reveals fine layers of bright citrus. They flaunt
a rather prominent acidity that recalls the more nervy wines of the Mosel, Saar, and Ruwer, though there is a weight, a density that speaks of the
Rheingau. They seem to have more to do with great, aged Chablis than with what we often think of as German Riesling. If there is any grand system
here, it is inscrutable. Consider, on the one hand, that Becker (and his father before him) has worked the vineyards organically for many, many years
(they finally became certified in 2011). On the other hand, this rather important fact is mentioned exactly nowhere so far as I can tell. Becker believes
the Rheingau has been particularly devastated by the decades of commercial agriculture; he says it took him many years to bring back to life a
healthy, diverse population of yeasts in the vineyards and the cellars. Thus, he is a strong advocate of wild yeast fermentations. This practice puts the
graying, wild statesman of German winemaking right next to the young German hipster-growers, as obsessed with natural yeasts as anything else. On
the other hand, since vintage 2003, Becker has bottled his wine with glass closures, which of course alienates him from this same population. Becker
prefers to use pressurized tanks for fermentation, relishing a quick, warm fermentation (a similar method is used at places like J.J. Prüm, Keller, etc).
Then he racks the juice into the traditional barrels of the Rheingau for at least two years of barrel age before bottling. Even with these very long
élevages, Becker seems to release wines willy-nilly – he keeps older vintages around because, in a way, the wines demand it. The wines all have
enormous aging potential, but even a couple of years in bottle unlocks their soul. These are Rieslings that make no concessions to modernity or to
fashion and are defiantly old school. They are living fossils, the likes of which we may never see again.
Pfalz
Brand
Young brothers Daniel and Jonas Brand (both in their twenties) recently took over their family’s century-old estate, and are quickly breathing new life
into this former workhorse of the Northern Pfalz. The kids are smart, eager, and dialed into the growing natural wine scene both in Germany and in
neighboring France. They’re just starting to make waves –– converting all their viticulture to organic (certified as of 2015) and are experimenting like
crazy in the cellar. They have a pét-nat that’s so popular it sells out before they’ve even made it, and they make the best organic, entry-level liters of
dry Riesling and Weissburgunder you’ll ever find. The Nordpfalz borders the Rheinessen (their village is closer to Keller’s than to anybody famous in
the Pfalz), and that airy but firm sensibility informs these bright and mineral-laden wines.
Swabia
Baden (honorary)
Enderle & Moll
Enderle & Moll is really just two guys, a tiny cellar, a few hectares of old vines, and a hell of a lot of buzz – even Jancis Robinson has called them
“cult". Sven Enderle and Florian Moll farm a total of 2.1ha on the western fringe of the Black Forest. Most of their Pinot comes from two sites: one with
25-45 years old vines planted in colored sandstone (Buntsandstein), and one other miniscule plot (0.045ha total) from four tiny terraces, home to 60
years old vines (the oldest in the region) planted in shell limestone (Muschelkalk). All work in the vineyard is done by hand, yields are low, and
vineyard work is organic/biodynamic. Walking through the vineyard, it is easy to see where the Enderle & Moll plots begin and end, so clear is the
vitality of their vines and soil. Sven and Florian are hands-off in the cellar and it shows in the wines. Parcels are vinified separately, with one-third
whole clusters. Grapes are crushed in an old wooden basket press and then go into secondhand Burgundian barrels (mostly from Domaine Dujac).
Bottling, like everything else, is done by hand, and there is no fining or filtration. Because they don’t care for the quality criteria for Pinots in Baden,
they’ve decided to declassify their Pinot Noir as a Tafelwein, which legally disallows them from putting vineyard names on the label. Florian thinks it
foolish to automatically equate higher ripeness levels with better quality and that doing so often leads to overripe, high-alcohol wines with lots of
extract and a shortage of acidity and delicacy. These are delicious Pinots (to say nothing of their Müller-Thurgau, which is likely the best version of
that grape you will ever taste) of enormous integrity, made with undeniable passion and point of view. Also, Sven Enderle has the best facial hair in
the wine business with the possible exception of Jo Landron. Silly-limited production.
Shelter Winery
Hans-Bert Espe and Silke Wolf farm roughly 5ha in the not-so-famous region of Baden. Let’s go ahead and equate not-so-famous with not-so-ripe
and we get, immediately, a sense of the philosophy here. There are lots of words we would use to describe the bulldozer-Pinots we’ve tasted from
Baden over the years; delicacy would not be one of them. Until we tasted with Hans-Bert and Silke. This husband-and-wife team has spent the last
decade in the nooks and crannies of the wine-geek world, slowly building a reputation for pristine, delicate Pinot Noirs from Baden (there, we’ve used
the word). You might call them understated, though the rather petite structure and lively animation of the wines gives way to a mid-palate that is
awash with sweet perfumed fruit, transparent and mineral. In style, sensibility and size, they remind us quite a bit of Weiser-Künstler in the Mosel
(indeed they are all friends) – except this is Pinot Noir, from Baden. You may have to remind yourself of this when you’re tasting the wines.
Württemberg
Weingut Beurer
Beurer is our newest import from Württemberg, but down there, he's not exactly the new kid in town. He's been working the slopes above the
village of Stetten since 1997, focusing on making terroir designated Riesling very early on. Being able to work the same grape on a variety of soils
has made it possible for Jochen to come up with an impressive range of wines. They are certainly unusual as far as dry Riesling goes nowadays;
there is not a trace of the severity of slate-grown, dry German Riesling, nor of the overt, exotic nature of ripeness found in Rheinhessen or
Wachau, nor the size of typical Alsatian Rieslings with this much flavor. In fact they are unusual for any Riesling I am aware of because the
expression of dirt they convey reminds me more of Chardonnay from Jura or Chablis than anything else. All are fermented in stainless steel
(except "Junges Schwaben", his top wine, which spends time in old foudre), which, when tasted side by side, really puts into focus the differences
in terroir.
Austria
Niederösterreich – Weinviertel
Weingut Martinshof
“Innovation, stubbornness and a bit of madness.” This, according to Michael Martin, the young wine making dynamo of Weingut Martinshof, is the
secret to his success. The trend to buck conservative thought was started even by his great grandfather, who insisted on growing Burgundian
grapes in the 13ha of vineyards many years before they were popular in Austria. The Martin family has owned and operated the Heuriger “Zum
Martin Sepp” for generations and it still remains one of the most popular wine taverns of Vienna’s Grinzing district. As Michael took over the
winemaking in the late '80s, it was his desire to bring the Martinshof name back from quantity to quality. “Food friendly” is the first thought that
comes to mind when sipping any of the Martinshof wines; whether light and elegant or rich and structured, all of Michael’s wines scream for food.
Niederösterreich – Kremstal
Weingut Müller-Grossmann
At the foot of Göttweig Mountain in the traditional winegrowing region Kremstal, the mother/daughter team of Helma and Marlies Müller-
Grossmann sustainably farm 10ha of vineyards. Focusing nearly exclusively on white wines, Müller-Grossmann lets the gravelly, loess soils do the
talking, choosing to bottle their wines by vineyard site. Everything is harvested by hand, and the same desire to express the unique characteristics
of their vineyards follows through to the cellar, where Müller-Grossman takes a traditional, hands-off approach. Helma and Marlies are even part of
an organization called "11 Frauen & Ihre Weine", a group of eleven female winemakers in Austria, banded together to support each other.
Niederösterreich – Wachau
Weingut Josef Jamek
Jamek is one of the historic estates of the Wachau; along with FX Pichler, Hirtzberger and Prager, they were the force behind the group known as
the Vinea Wachau, which demanded the highest quality of the region and created the language we use to talk about the great wines of the Wachau
today (Smaragd for the most powerful of the wines, Federspiel for the more delicate, etc.). Jamek was, without a doubt, at the forefront of this
renaissance, and it should not come as a surprise: Jamek has some of the most coveted vineyards in the Wachau, including the terraced titans of
Klaus and Achleiten. Harvested by hand and fermented in stainless before aging in large, old barrels, these are very "grown-up" kinds of wines;
solid, durable, and authoritative, they are sometimes hard to read just because they aren’t sheet-metal brilliant. But with age, the wines truly shine.
Weingut Christ
The Christ family claims an unbroken 400-year history of winemaking in Austria. Its current scion is the dynamic and outspoken Rainer Christ who,
when he came of age, took over from his father as the 5th generation tending the family’s 9ha of vineyards. After assuming control, Christ oversaw
the renovation of his family’s winery into a spectacular expression of modern Austrian architecture. Christ’s inclinations toward modernity stop at
the facade, however. The cellar work remains deliberately primitive—entirely gravity fed, eschewing fining and filtration, and fermenting solely with
ambient yeasts—and remains largely executed by Christ himself. Christ farms organically, and embraces some of the principles of biodynamics, in
particular, synchronizing some of his actions with the appropriate phase of the moon.
Burgenland – Leithaberg
Tinhof
After studying wine in Vienna, Montpelier, and a stint at the legendary Mas de Daumas-Gassac in Southern France, Erwin Tinhof has returned to
farm the 14ha of vineyards on the slopes of the Leitha Mountains that have been passed down through his family for 11 generations. Farming
organically since 2008 (certification came in 2012), Erwin carefully dry-farms the estate, which is home to vines that are up to 50 years old. There
is no use of insecticides, herbicides, or artificial fertilizers, and after hand harvesting the grapes, the wines are all made with minimal intervention
in the cellar.
Piero Brunet
Morgex and La Salle are neighboring villages at the foot of Mont Blanc in the Alta Valle, or High Valley, of the Vallée d’Aoste. The local grape variety,
Prié Blanc, was brought to fame by Alexandre Bougeat who, besides serving as parish priest of Morgex, began bottling wine in 1964. In 1985, Piero
Brunet took over his family’s vineyards and purchased a part of the original vineyards of "Curé Bougeat". Piero, his wife, and their two daughters now
farm 4ha of high-altitude (1000-1200m), steeply-terraced, pergola-trained, own-rooted, organic vines and make just over 300 cases of their single and
singular wine. Lovers of heroic viticulture and Alpine wines, take note!
Piemonte
Cascina Fornace
We drink lots of Roero wines, and we’re friends with quite a few producers there. But we’ve yet to taste wines more lithe and pure, with more of that
famed Roero 'profumato' nose, than those of Enrico Cauda. His family has farmed for generations and used to sell grapes and make wine for their
own consumption. Skip forward to 2011, and Enrico decides to start bottling wine under his own label, naming it after the old fornace, or brick kiln,
that was on the property. Enrico and his brother Manuele now farm 3ha of old-vine Arneis and Nebbiolo (50-60 years old) organically, with certification
in process. The vineyards are in the village of Santo Stefano Roero, and thus higher in altitude than most others in the Roero. Soils are classic
Roero, with a high percentage of sand. Native yeasts, super-meticulous farming, all work in the vineyard is done by hand, in part because the
vineyards are too steep for a tractor.
Fuso
Project Fuso21: regional, terroir-driven, daily drinkers, from farmers we know here in Italy – from their vineyards to your table. These are like the
wines you’ll find in a good trattoria when traveling in Italy, made from the native varieties that the locals drink. Keeping true to vini quotidiani, we
choose deliciousness over complexity and polish. All are vinified in cement or steel, lightly or not filtered, and delicious. The project connects growers
in small towns throughout Italy to folks just like us who don’t want industrial plonk for daily drinkers. One day, PortoVino founder Ernest asked Walter
Massa (2011 Gambero Rosso Wine Grower of the Year) for a favor: Walter is most famous as the prophet of Timorasso in Colli Tortonesi, but the area
has a long tradition for delicious Barbera (including Walter’s Barbera ‘Monleale’). Fuso Barbera isn’t a private label with wine from anywhere; it’s all
estate fruit, vinified with a slow, traditional fermentation, and aged in concrete tanks. We work closely with Walter to choose the vineyards and make
the final cuvée.
Mauro Franchino
Gattinara is the most renowned DOCG of nine tiny but geographically complex appellations, collectively known as Alto Piemonte. The three largest
producers collectively have around 90 of the 100 hectares of vineyard in the appellation. That leaves 10 highly fractionalized hectares for some
hobbyists and a handful of nearly forgotten vignaioli. These vignerons still hold onto the tradition of using a sketch of the crumbling Gattinara tower on
their labels. Signor Franchino is one of these old-schoolers – no faxes or emails. Most of the time when we call or visit, he’s in the vineyard, while his
Nebbiolo sits patiently in the old garagiste cellar in Gattinara’s centro storico. This Nebbiolo has little color. It’s pale, concise, honest, and comfortable
with long stretches of silence between its notes of salt, iron, red currants, and rose hip tea. Both the Gattinara and Coste della Sesia are 100%
Nebbiolo. Go on and bring a little old world Gattinara soul to your Nebbiolo fix.
Scarpa
We sometimes assume that the great, historic producers in Italy are all well-known in the U.S. But ask the old timers: "I remember Scarpa…"
Antica Casa Vinicola Scarpa has been producing traditional, aristocratic wines in the Monferrato hills of southeast Piemonte for 150 years. They
have vineyards, farmed organically, in the Langhe as well as the Monferrato. Mario Pesce, admired by both Giacosa and Gaja, made Scarpa’s
reputation in the late 20th century, and today Maria Pier Zola and her family carry on his tradition of aging all the wines for years, and sometimes
decades before release. Traditional sometimes means 'rustic', but that's not the case here; Scarpa produces elegant wines with arrow-like acidity
and well-aged tannins. Bottle evolution and vintage characteristics emerge instead of pointillist fruit. Be on the lookout for releases from the
family's 45,000+ bottle library.
Terre Sparse
When you travel from the Piemonte region into Valle d’Aosta, you pass through the pre-alpine growing areas of Caluso and Carema. Unfortunately,
as you drive along the road, you’ll also notice many abandoned terraces. There’s now a few less, grazie to Matteo Trompetto and his farm, Terre
Sparse. Matteo’s given love to those abandoned terraces, and life to a small traditional farm. There’s much work to be done and Terre Sparse is an
ambitious undertaking. It’s an area we don’t usually see many new wine producers popping up, let alone ones with working farms. And that’s a shame
since the soil and climate here are unique and warrant our attention. The Caluso DOCG sits a bit lower than the Carema DOCG, which is more Alpine
in nature. Both are located in a natural morainic amphitheater, whose soil composition of sand and other elements renders it alkaline, producing wines
with low alcohol and a savory quality. Matteo’s winemaking reflects the ethos of his organic farm; the wines have minimal intervention and use native
yeasts. Sulfur levels are low and coming down each year as he gains confidence (and feeds the family). These wines are not glou-glou; they have too
pithy of a texture, and the savory notes have a tinge of bitter, which maybe is a hallmark of many Italian wines. But they sure do go down easy after
day of hard of work on the farm.
Umberto Fracassi
Umberto Fracassi’s family has been producing Barolo since 1880, a time when Barolo went from being 'un vino dolce' to the grande vino secco that
we all know today. After the Second World War, Marchese Fracassi, or simply Umberto, dedicated himself to carrying on the family tradition of
producing old school Barolo in Slavonian oak botti. The town of Cherasco sits at the northwest corner of the Barolo zone, just west of La Morra and
Verduno, and its growing area includes Fracassi’s 2ha Barolo monopole cru, Mantoetto. This area is also known as Italy’s capital of snail production.
Umberto also produces some white Favorita (Vermentino) that’s a good way to start a meal, as the Barolo is opening up in the decanter.
Vigneti Massa
It’s hard not to get worked up about Walter Massa’s wines. He had a vision for a variety nobody wanted (Timorasso), worked in obscurity for years,
rescued the grape, and doesn’t talk about himself but instead about the territory of Colli Tortonesi. When you get lost going there, start asking people
100 kilometers out; they all know and love him, from the gas station guy to the producer next door. You'll often hear it bandied about: "There are
thousands of native grape varieties in Italy!" That's true, but a lot of them are merely cute. Timorasso, however, deserves another category (and it’s
white to boot). It’s utterly unique, complex, capable of aging, and transparent to where it's grown. Walter is the 'contadino straordinario' who started to
replant the variety in the 1980s and remains the leading producer and go-to grower for Timorasso today. We often say that Timorasso is like Ali: 'Float
like a butterfly (baroque fruit and honeyed minerality) and sting like a bee (lots of well-integrated acidity). Remarkable and distinctive red wines made
from Barbera, Croatina, and Freisa demonstrate that Walter is more than just the "King of Timorasso".
Trentino
Castel Noarna
Marco Zani is making wine in the Dolomites from a small, 7ha vineyard surrounding a Medieval castle in the Vallagarina valley in Trentino. In
existence since the 11th century, this castle was once home to the infamous witch trials of Nogaredo. Marco's father initially bought the property but,
like most growers in the village, he would sell each year's crop to the local cooperative. Unlike his father, Marco knew from an early age that he
wanted to make wine, and since 1989, he has fanatically been tending the vineyards and making the wine from this unique property. After spending
years revitalizing the vineyard, Marco finally achieved organic certification in 2008. The vines are at an altitude of 350m on an eastern slope
composed mostly of limestone but charged with quartz, basalt, and slate. The terroir of this special place, combined with the warm 'Ora' breeze in the
summer and Marco's careful winemaking, makes for wines that are textured, long, and complex, yet still refreshing and highly drinkable. All are
fermented with native yeast in a variety of stainless steel and old oak vessels, with the only addition being a minimal dose of sulfur before bottling.
Veneto
Bella Vita
While our focus is on small growers that work well in the vineyard and the cellar, we also understand the realities and needs of our customers. So,
we found a Pinot Grigio from Treviso that fits in qualitatively with our portfolio, and that we feel good about offering at a great price. Made by the third
generation, sibling winemaking team of Annalisa, Alessandro, Carlo, and Luca Botter (also responsible for Bella Vita Montepulciano from their
holdings in Abruzzo).
Corte Sant'Alda
Corte Sant’Alda’s owner, Marina Camerani, is a bit of an outsider in Valpolicella. She took over her family farm in 1985 and immediately began the
conversion to certified organic. Not long after, she began working biodynamically, and the vineyards are now certified by Demeter. She and her
partner, Cesar, work 21ha of vineyards at 400m elevation on red and white limestone (Scala Rossa Veneta and Biancone) in the upper reaches of
the Val di Mezzane. Their aim is to produce toothsome bottlings of Soave and Valpolicella, but also fresh and savory versions of Ripasso, Amarone,
and Recioto. Marinella is a force of nature; as serious as she is about her vineyards and wines (and the cherry jam that she cans), she’s also full of
wit, a straight shooter about natural wines, and not afraid of holding court with the best of the armchair prophets and naysayers in her area and
beyond. She once told a group of wine professionals visiting her that she uses a "technology" called the sorting table, since many in the area, she
explained, sorting table or not, sell out. Thankfully, she hasn’t.
Serata
While our focus is on small growers that work well in the vineyard and the cellar, we also understand the realities and needs of our customers. So, we
found a Prosecco that fits in qualitatively with our portfolio, and that we feel good about offering at a great price. Made by a family winery outside of
Vittoria Veneto in the foothills of the Dolomites. Their vineyards are farmed sustainably without herbicides, solar panels are used for electricity, and
large amounts of the property are left as woodlands to encourage biodiversity.
Liguria
Vio
In the tiny village of Vendone, just 12km inland and 300m above the sea, Ettore and Natalina Vio planted vines and olive trees amidst the Ligurian
mountain scrub in the 1970s. Today, their son, Claudio, and his wife, Maria Grazia, now tend the family farm. The dispersed patchwork of tiny,
terraced vineyard plots adding up to just 2ha — mostly Pigato, with a little Vermentino and some local red varieties — yield just enough wine for us to
bring in a few hundred cases a year. A hectare of olive orchards gives even less of their beautifully delicate olive oil (ask us nicely, and we might be
able to get you a little). Farming is 'lotta integrata' (manual weeding, no treatments besides Bordeaux mixture), all harvesting is by hand (by necessity
of the small, steep terraced parcels), and fermentations are with native yeasts.
Emilia-Romagna
Denny Bini (Podere Cipolla)
In case you hadn’t noticed, Emila, the land of Lambrusco, has a revolution brewing (or fermenting, often in bottle). After too many years of industrially-
produced mediocrity, Emilia is now home to a small but growing cell of artisanal producers who are farming carefully and returning to the 'metodo
ancestrale' of their grandfathers: secondary fermentation in the bottle, without disgorgement. Denny Bini is one of the humble heroes of this
renaissance-revolution. He makes 6,000 bottles per year from a single hectare of organically-farmed vineyards. "Ponente 270" is the sparkling red
and is mostly Grasparossa. "Rosa dei Venti" is the sparkling rosato (Grasparossa and Malbo Gentile). "Levante 90" is the sparkling white wine, made
from Malvasia. All three are bottle-fermented. Denny also makes our Fuso21 Lambrusco dell’Emilia (a.k.a. The Party Label) from fruit purchased from
the practicing organic vineyards of family and friends.
Folicello
Marco Folicello is an old-school Italian DIYer who's been an advocate of low and no-sulfur wines for over 20 years. His vines, located northwest of
Bologna, have been certified organic since the 1980's, and he has always been a passionate practitioner of native yeast fermentations. Marco works
predominantly with Grechetto Gentile or Grechetto di Todi, also known as Pignoletto nowadays. This daily drinker is refreshing with relatively low
alcohol, lemon, a touch of lavender, and almond notes. Excellent as an aperitivo, the wine can be a bit cloudy, since it’s not filtered – that's a good
thing!
Toscana
Brusco
Project Fuso21: regional, terroir-driven, daily drinkers, from farmers we know here in Italy – from their vineyards to your table. These are like the
wines you’ll find in a good trattoria when traveling in Italy, made from the native varieties that the locals drink. Keeping true to vini quotidiani, we
choose deliciousness over complexity and polish. All are vinified in cement or steel, lightly or not filtered, and delicious. The project connects growers
in small towns throughout Italy to folks just like us who don’t want industrial plonk for daily drinkers. “Brusco” is still used in the Tuscan dialect today
defining a person or thing that is off the cuff and a bit rough but genuine through and through. This is 100% Sangiovese made by one of our Chianti
Classico producers, Tenuta Maiano from their certified organic estate fruit in Montespertoli, Tuscany. Soils are limestone with silt below composed of
marine sand and clay. The fruit is all destemmed with fermentation and aging in old-school cement tanks with native yeast.
Le Masse di Lamole
Lamole could be thought of as a sub-zone of Chianti Classico with its unique, high altitude vineyards (400-650m), grown on marl and sandstone soils.
Lamole produces elegant wines that are often described as 'profumati' or aromatic (red fruits, rosa canina, Iris flower, orange zest), with structure built
more on acidity rather than tannins. Toscana, yes, but nothing rustic here. Le Masse di Lamole has the highest vineyards in the area at 650m. The
mountaintop vineyards are unprotected and are home to some 100+ year-old, albarello (bush) vines, many of which are planted on their own roots
(thanks to the sandstone soils in the area). Sometimes I think owners Anna Maria and Giuliano worship Zeus, for their Sangiovese is electric. A very
humble cellar is cut out of the wall of a medieval borgo. Vinification is done in steel without temperature controls, then botti di castagno (Chestnut, not
Slavonian oak) of 15 and 25 HL that don’t have a manufacturer’s name since they were made by local artisans over 100 years ago. Lamole is a
special area and there are few wines I wouldn’t want to drink there. But, I have to put an extra wink in for Le Masse. Maybe it’s just me and a perverse
desire to swallow Sangiovese-lightning and live to tell about it.
Ranchelle
The best wine producers have their own brand of authenticity, and it comes through in the wines. Christoph Fischer is a long-time German expat
who’s fixated on a preservation project (recupero) of Maremma’s abandoned vineyards and varieties. The Maremma area lies mostly along the
Tuscan coast. It’s a place where the ancient Etruscans once cultivated vines and where the Butteri (Tuscan cowboys) still roam. Morello di Scansano
is perhaps the best-known wine from the Maremma. It can offer juicy fun, but the old local varieties here are way more soulful. We know of no one
doing such interesting work as Christoph in the area: all organic farming, all native yeasts, extremely low sulfur. Soils are an even mix of sand,
limestone, and clay. Christof works from a one hectare plot of 60 year-old albarello (bush) vines in an area named on old maps as Millocchio: literally
a ‘thousand-eyes’ (mille + occhio). According to locals, it was an area where there were once so many vineyards on the hills that thousands of vine
buds would look down on you. From that one abandoned vineyard, he has planted two more hectares using massale selection. Both wines (one white
and one red) ferment to dryness in open-topped fermenters with skin contact for about three weeks and punchdowns twice a day using a multi-
pronged mandrone stick that he got from an old farmer in the area. Christoph’s makeshift cellar was a Super Alimentari (corner grocery store) in the
1970s. It’s extremely clean now. After a light pressing, most of the juice goes into used 500-liter tonneaux; about 30% goes into stainless steel tanks.
A tiny amount of sulfur is used only when he blends the two parts.
Umbria
Marco Merli
Marco is a naturalista in Umbria, just outside of Perugia, in a town called the House of the Devil (Casa del Diavolo). He has taken over various high-
altitude vineyards around him that have a mix of native grapes such as Grechetto, Malvasia, Verdicchio, Moscato, Trebbiano, and Sangiovese. His
cellar is filled with re-conditioned small cement tanks – the kinds that farmers would use for home production – except Marco has dozens of them, so
he can follow each parcel per tank up to bottling. The wines are a bit of eco-chic rustic, with punchy acidity and just a touch of fruit. A great addition to
the portfolio from a region in which it’s not easy to find something that really shines.
Marche
Le Salse
Project Fuso21: regional, terroir-driven, daily drinkers, from farmers we know here in Italy – from their vineyards to your table. These are like the
wines you’ll find in a good trattoria when traveling in Italy, made from the native varieties that the locals drink. Keeping true to vini quotidiani, we
choose deliciousness over complexity and polish. All are vinified in cement or steel, lightly or not filtered, and delicious. The project connects growers
in small towns throughout Italy to folks just like us who don’t want industrial plonk for daily drinkers. This wine is made by Cantine Belisario, a high-
quality co-op in Matelica, whose members are all committed to working sustainably and organically in the vineyards. It’s our response to the ocean of
Pinot Grigio that has washed up on U.S. shores: refreshing, versatile, glug-able, but with the real character that most Pinot Grigios lack. The
vineyards are on top of a Jurassic-period raised seabed, near saltwater springs called 'le salse' (from 'sale' meaning salt) at an altitude of 450 meters.
Abruzzo
Bella Vita
While our focus is on small growers that work well in the vineyard and the cellar, we also understand the realities and needs of our customers. So, we
found an old vine Montepulciano that fits in qualitatively with our portfolio, and that we feel good about offering at a great price. Made by the third
generation, sibling winemaking team of Annalisa, Alessandro, Carlo, and Luca Botter (also responsible for Bella Vita Pinot Grigio from their holdings
in the Veneto).
Emidio Pepe
Emidio Pepe is one of the true legends in Italian wine – a man who set out in 1964 to make some of the best wines in the world through entirely
natural and manual methods in the vineyard and cellar. The family farms 15ha of vineyards and olive trees, all clustered around their cantina and
home in the village of Torano Nuovo, in the northern-most part of Abruzzo. All work in the vineyard is organic and now biodynamic, and everything is
harvested by hand. In the cantina as well, the Pepe family works entirely by hand – or by foot. Both the Montepulciano and Trebbiano grapes are
pressed by foot before being fermented with native yeast, and then aged entirely in 50 year-old, glass-lined cement tanks. The Pepe family are great
believers in cement – specifically in glass-lined cement (Il vetro è sincero, they like to say: “Glass is honest.”). No sulfur is added to any of the wines
at any point in the cellar, including before bottling. These are wines made to age for decades, and for Pepe, it’s equilibrium (rather than sulfur or aging
in wood) that enables a wine to age and improve. The 350,000-bottle library of both Montepulciano and Trebbiano date back to Emidio’s first vintage
in 1964. When they receive an order for an older vintage, Emidio’s wife, Rosa, goes down to the cellar, opens the requisite number of bottles, decants
them by hand, and recorks the bottles (13 opened bottles make 12 finished bottles). This hand decantation just before sale is for the Pepes a more
natural and gentle way to remove sediment than filtration, and the brief exposure to air is beneficial to Montepulciano, which is prone to reduction. The
family’s total production is about 70,000 bottles per year, each of which is a hand-made part of the history that Emidio Pepe began creating more than
50 years ago.
Campania
Antica Masseria Venditti
Back in 1988, the Italian wine guide Gambero Rosso introduced the word "organic" for the first time in its review of Venditti’s wines. Those who still
believe that “organic” equals “unscientific” should think again. Nicola Venditti is both an enologist and the very incarnation of a contadino (farmer). The
vineyards have been in the family for over 400 years — thus the “antica” part of Antica Masseria — and he is deeply passionate about his territory of
Sannio, adjacent to better-known Taurasi. Nicola eschews oak and kneels at the altar of steel, thus letting all of the wines really show the clean and
distinct fruit of their native grapes (some of which only he cultivates). His cantina is squeaky clean, and he gladly whistles out pH and acid levels for
those inclined. This humanist-techno-geek approach, he explains, is a combination of the “humanity” of ancient methods and local varieties, together
with the “rationality” offered by technology. The new "Assenza" (meaning, "not containing" or, "absent of") wines are made completely without SO2.
Luigi Tecce
A visit to Luigi Tecce can get you emotional. Luigi himself is a ball of them, and his Aglianico from Taurasi elicits them. His grandfather’s 'masseria'
(farmhouse) and vineyards are located in the Taurasi subzone known as Sud-Alta Valle (South-High Valley). It’s one of Taurasi’s highest altitude
growing areas, with a soil that’s layered with sand, limestone and Vesuvius’ pumice; it’s also the dwelling of Luigi’s 80+ year old vine-trees. There’s no
enologist and no agronomist, Luigi works here in relative solitude. Maybe that’s why there’s such an affinity between him and the wines. Strangely
enough, Luigi wasn’t groomed to be a farmer or 'vignaiolo'. After university, he worked in Rome as an assistant to a member of the Italian parliament.
Then suddenly in 1997, his father died and it caused Luigi’s homecoming back to the 4th generation farmhouse to take care of the property, which
included olive trees, goats, sheep, and of course vines. All this left no time for any practical knowledge to be handed down to him from his father or
grandfather. He didn’t know how to manage the property, let alone how to vinify wine, but he did have many memories from living there as a child, and
these guided him. So, in the sadness and loss of 1997, he started bottling for friends and family. He now has a total of 5ha of vines in two communes
(Paternopoli and Castelfranci) dispersed over seven plots. Luigi’s wines ferment with native yeasts, and nothing is added to or subtracted from the
wine. His craftiness comes from vineyard selection and mixing of the final barrels, and from the time-consuming and careful tending during harvest,
where he makes three passes. The first picking is in early October, when the grapes are not completely ripe, to add extra acidity and freshness. The
majority of the grapes are then picked in late October. In the early days of November, he picks the final bunches, which have grown throughout not
only the summer days and nights, but also the fading autumn sun. These are wines that have savory qualities, fleshy fruit, and structured tannins;
grand age-worthy wines, Monforte-esque, Barolo as the Aglianico of the North.
Pierluigi Zampaglione
Pierluigi Zampaglione’s family has farmed tomatoes, grains, and beans for generations in the town of Calitri, located 75 miles east of Avellino in the
Alta Irpinia. In 2002, Pierluigi decided to plant 2ha of Fiano vines at 800 meters of elevation and to make a single wine called "Don Chisciotte" (Don
Quixote – among other things, Pierluigi sees his vineyards and himself as tilting at the windmill farms that dot the Alta Irpinia landscape). Farming is
certified organic. All stainless steel, native yeasts, extended skin contact, very little sulfur, no other additives, and no filtration. The wine is complex
and chock full of character on the highest elevation Fiano vineyards we know of.
Calabria
Giuseppe Calabrese
Giuseppe Calabrese tends 4ha of mostly bush-trained old vines in the Pollino Mountains of northern Calabria, in the ancient town of Saracena. He
works without peer in this remote area; to say he’s plowing the rough road is an understatement. The winter’s here are bracing, summers are fresh,
thanks to the nearby mountains and high altitude (400 meters). The soil is a mix of Neogene marine deposits and limestone, as seen by the many
ancient limestone caves you find in the area. Giuseppe’s wines are an echo of the local wildness, and the ancient Saracean civilization, which still
imbues the area. His works focuses on the local native grapes. The red is the intriguing and moody Magliocco Dolce: smoky and salty, with black
fruits and grainy tannins. The limestone and 40+ year old bush vines make a difference. His white is from Guarnaccia (a synonym for the Campanian
variety Coda di Volpe) and Malvasia, and it is an exercise in controlled oxidation that will be a stunner for fans of the Jura ouillé genre who are looking
for more than roasted nuts. These are exciting times for Calabria, and exciting wines from a place far away and relatively unknown.
Silvio Carta
The Carta family has been making (and storing) wine in the sleepy coastal town of Oristano for generations. The local grape is Vernaccia (though not
the one from Gimignano). The vine was possibly introduced by the Phoenicians or it was cultivated from wild vines of the Tirso valley. The style is
"oxidative", but no Englishman created or discovered this wine (as happened in Marsala). And maybe that’s a shame because these wines deserve
to be better known outside their home. The wine is vinified dry, and the nose is chalky and intriguing. Multiple aged vintages are available. The
register is something new for us, falling somewhere amid the mineral tones of Fino, the nuttiness of Marsala, and a bit of passito fruit.
Sicilia
Alcesti
Gianfranco Palladino and family are making honest, pure wines from local grapes in the Marsala region of Sicily. Certified organic farming and hand-
harvesting in a region and price-point that isn’t always the norm. Our idea of fresh, Sicilian wines ready to drink; both are fermented and aged in
stainless steel.
Guccione
The all-but-forgotten Monreale DOC lies southwest of the crumbling and exceedingly romantic city of Palermo, in the northwest part of the triangle
island. Guccione’s sub-zone, Cerasa, is famous both locally and across the island for great grapes and wine. Francesco Guccione, working only with
native varieties including the rare Perricone, farms 6ha of land that’s been in his family for generations. His great-grandfather used to make wine and
tend horses here. Rainfall is minuscule, so they dry farm the dry farm. The soil is marl — mostly clay with some chalk and iron, which gives some of
the vineyards a reddish brown color from oxidation. Rusty locals call it terre brune, or brown soil. The vines here dig deep for underground water on
the higher part of the hill at 480-500 meters. The climate in this corner of the island is relatively mild, and Francesco has oriented his vines so that
they receive maximum light exposure from sunrise to sunset. Farming is organic and biodynamic. Visit the vineyards with Francesco, and you’ll get a
discourse on cover crops including herbs like chamomile and echinacea. All of the work in the cantina is equally natural: native yeasts, no fining or
filtering, and modest sulfur at bottling. The white wines see skin contact of 2-10 days. Most of the wines are fermented and aged in 3000-liter tini:
large, upright wooden casks. Mount Etna may be getting most of the cool-kid press in Sicilia, but over in the other corner of the island, Francesco
Guccione is making wines off the recently-beaten path — wines of equally-loaded character and authenticity.
I Custodi
Mount Etna is a current darling of the Italian wine scene, and I Custodi is among the 21st-century Etna Renaissance producers who are now making
wines as compelling as the active volcano’s cooled lava flows. Founder Mario Paoluzi has teamed up with Etna guru Salvo Foti and I Vigneri, the local
vineyard workers who tend the ancient albarello vines and volcanic terracing. The Etna Rosso "Pistus" (mostly Nerello Mascalese) comes from Etna’s
north slope, where the wines are known to be structured and savoury. In 1774, the Florentine scholar Sestini called them ‘navigabile’ or ship-worthy,
keeping after long voyages. Don’t miss 150+ year-old vines mostly-Nerello cru "Aetneus". The racy Etna Bianco "Ante" (mostly Carricante) comes
from 1200m high vineyards on the sea-influenced eastern slopes; raw fish come alive with this wine. "Alnus" is the traditional ‘pista e mutta’ (press
and rack) Etna rosato. Organic.
Spain
Basque Country/País Vasco
Bengoetxe
Bengoetxe means “come home” in Basque, and that is exactly what Iñaki and Rosa Maria Etxeberria did when they established their tiny, 3.5ha estate
in 2001. It turns out that the Etxeberria’s farm has a long history and unique terruño to go along with the singular wines they produce. Perched high up
on a clay slope, their ancient farmhouse has been handed down through the family for generations. After both phylloxera and civil war hit the area, the
vineyards were ripped out, only to be replanted to the native Hondarribi Zuri and Gros Manseng once the Etxeberrias returned. Organic from the
beginning, certification came in 2007, the first producer in the Basque Country to do so. Bengoetxe is one of the few producers in the DO that's not
located right next to the coast or directly near the town of Getaria. Using historic evidence of pre-phylloxera plantings in their town of Olaberria, Iñaki
fought for years to be included in the DO, finally achieving the status in 2008. Olaberria is a little warmer, especially in the summer, and the soils more
clay dominated than their coastal neighbors, leading to riper, sturdier grapes. Thankfully, the Etxeberrias do not intend to make a copy-cat Txakolina.
Classic and slow wild yeast fermentation takes place in small 3000 liter vats located in their home garage. The wine is then raised on the lees up to a
year with no batonnage. Sulfur levels are kept to a minimum, and because all CO2 is natural (not injected), the wine often does not show the spritzy
character of other Txakolis from Getaria. We can’t help but feel like this was how the Txakolis of the past tasted before commercial yeast, chemicals,
and heavy filtration took hold of the region. With Bengoetxe, we feel we have unearthed an authentic and treasured puzzle piece of Basque
winegrowing history.
Galicia
Benaza
The wine region Monterrei is located just above Portugal in the province of Ourense. Monterrei is a relatively new DO but possesses a long history of
winegrowing, and at the moment is experiencing a renaissance in winemaking. The climate is relatively dry and warm for Galicia and more continental
than Atlantic. The soils are a mix of clay and alluvial. Benaza Godello is a balanced, drinkable, and food-friendly vino blanco. It expresses the unique
personality and inherent qualities of the Godello grape and Monterrei terruño. Benaza Godello is a cuvée made especially for Vinos de Terruños in
collaboration with Álvaro Bueno, a vintner with deep roots and intimate knowledge of the Monterrei region. Fermented in stainless steel vat and
raised on the lees for up to a year.
La Milla
Rías Baixas represents the lowlands of Galicia, with an elevation generally less than 300m near the sea and the lower reaches of the rivers, giving
the region a distinct Atlantic influence with mild temperatures and high rainfall. Here, Albariño finds its natural habitat. La Milla is a cuvée made in
collaboration with third generation winegrower and winemaker Angel Parada. It is sourced from an organically and biodynamically farmed plot of old
vines (up to 80 years old) in the sandy soils of the Soutomaior subzone of Rías Baixas. After hand harvesting, spontaneous fermentation and aging
occur entirely in stainless steel tanks.
La Perdida
Nacho González is a natural winegrower working three small, old-vine plots (1.5ha total) around the town of Larouco, located in the Valdeorras wine
region (although Nacho chooses to work outside the DO, as his non‐interventionist approach and subsequent wines do not fit the more conventional
Valdeorras offerings). The age of his vines ranges from 40 to 70 years old, with the oldest of his holdings coming from his grandmother. His approach
to farming is to treat the vineyard as an ecosystem – allowing growth between the vines, the use of some biodynamic practices, and planting cover
crops to help with disease pressure and pests. Fermentations are in clay vessels or open-top barrels with whole grape clusters, and élevage is in old
French oak, with no racking or clarifying, and only a touch of sulfur added at bottling if needed. The resulting wines are pure, gripping, unadulterated
expressions of old-vine Valdeorras terroir.
Nanclares
Located in Cambados right on the Atlantic Ocean, Alberto Nanclares has been quietly crafting some of the most serious, ocean-infused, age-worthy
Albariños in the Val do Salnés subzone of Rías Baixas. After a career as an economist for many years, in 1992, Alberto and his wife wanted to unwind
their careers near the ocean. As happenstance, the small home they purchased came with some vineyard land. Initially, Alberto had no plans to make
wine, but the idea of farming grew on him, so he invested in some winemaking tools and set up a tiny winery in his garage. In the beginning, Alberto
farmed conventionally but quickly became disenchanted with the use of chemicals. Gradually, he moved away from the systematic herbicide and
pesticide use and has now eliminated chemicals altogether with full-fledged organic farming and some work with biodynamics, a rarity in this humid,
Atlantic-influenced region. Alberto currently tends 2.5ha of vines, all trained in the traditional pergola style, and divided into 12 small parcels in the
parroquias of Cambados and Meaño. Some of the vines are so close to the ocean that Alberto gathers seaweed to use for compost, and he does not
plow in order to keep the surrounding flora and fauna in their natural habitat. After harvesting by hand, all of his wines are fermented with wild yeasts
by parcel, and he chooses not to de-acidify, preferring the edginess of the naturally high acidity. Malolactic fermentation rarely occurs, and the wines
spend a good amount of time (usually more than one year) on their lees before being bottled without clarification or filtration and only a minimal dose
of sulfur. Nanclares wines are angular and 'vin de garde' in style with great concentration, crystalline precision, and a distinct saline character that
pairs effortlessly with the abundant fresh seafood the region is known for.
Siete
Siete Rioja comes from a second generation family farm using environmentally friendly methods for producing the best wines. Vineyards are divided
among several municipalities – Calahorra, Andosilla, and San Adrián – all within Rioja Baja. The soils are diverse, with limestone dominating, but also
sand, clay, and gravel. Siete is a wine made especially for Vinos de Terruños in collaboration with brothers Andrés and Ramón Serrano, pioneers in
organic farming in Rioja Baja. Tempranillo, Garnacha, and Mazuelo are each vinified separately in stainless steel before final blending.
Navarra
Verasol
The region of Navarra sits just northeast of the bordering Rioja. It is a region that enjoys three distinct climate influences – Atlantic, Continental, and
Mediteranean – as well as a myriad of soil types and elevations. This makes Navarra one of the most interesting regions for winegrowing in all of
Spain. The fruit for this cuvée is sourced from organically farmed vines around the town of Olite, a winemaking town in the Ribera Alta subzone of
Navarra. Due to its limestone sub-soils, high elevation, and accompanying fluctuations between daytime and nighttime temperatures, this is an area
known to produce excellent Tempranillo and Garnacha based wines. Verasol is a cuvée made especially for Vinos de Terruños in collaboration with
Charo Moriones, a vintner with deep roots and intimate knowledge of the Navarra region. Fermented and raised in old cement vats. Bottled unfiltered.
Goyo García
Goyo García Viadero, the son of one of the most respected winemaking families in the Ribera del Duero, has been crafting iconoclastic, naturally-
made wines since the 1980s. Greatly inspired by natural winemakers, like Pierre Overnoy from the Jura, Goyo started his current project of reviving
old vineyards to produce his own naturally made wines in 2003. With the help of his wife Diana, Goyo farms three, tiny single-plots in the heart of
Ribera del Duero near the town of Roa, all on different soil types and altitudes. The vineyards here are very old (the youngest vines are 80 years old),
and all the vines are head-trained and interplanted with white grapes. Goyo harvests first for acidity, and then coferments red and white grapes
together, just as things were done in Ribera del Duero back in the good old days. In the cellar, the grapes are all destemmed, fermented exclusively
with wild yeast, and nothing is added during élevage (including SO2). The wines are then raised in old French barrels at an underground, century-old
cellar. Goyo also makes wine in Cantabria, the region where his mother comes from, high up in the Picos de Europa mountain range, where there is a
little-known outcropping of old-vine Mencía and Palomino planted on pure broken slate. Using similar practices as his Duero reds, Goyo produces
beautiful mountain-laden, mineral-inflected wines from here. That’s right, Palomino gone Wild!
Isaac Cantalapiedra
The Cantalapiedras descend from several generations of winegrowers working in the municipality of La Seca, a dusty town of 1,000 people that is
considered to be the heart of the Rueda appellation. While most producers in the region have embraced the ultra-modern styles of Verdejo (high
yields, machine harvesting, selected yeasts, cold fermentation, heavy filtration, and copious amounts of sulfur) to make an internationally appealing
wine, the Cantalapiedras have taken a decidedly different approach. Although there are records of the Cantalapiedras’ grape-growing dating to the
19th century, the birth of the current estate can be traced to 1949 when patriarch Heliodoro planted his first vineyard plot at the age of 15. For many
years, Heliodoro’s son Isaac worked alongside him, and together they built a 20ha domaine that is now certified organic. In the past, they sold the
bulk of their grape production to larger producers in the area. It is with the third generation – Helio has since passed away and Isaac’s son Manuel
has joined – that the family has established a small cellar of their own, bottling their first vintage in 2014. Being farmers first, they strive to go beyond
organic and incorporate many biodynamic practices into their viticulture. Their grapes are oftentimes harvested later than other producers in the
region, and they keep about 7ha of their vines to vinify themselves, selling the rest to the old relationships of the family. In the cellar, Manuel utilizes
wild yeasts for fermentation, minimal amounts of sulfur, and no other additions. They produce a wide range of wines, from more soil-driven, single-plot
wines, to flor-aged wines (historically traditional for the region), as well as skin-contact wines and pét-nats with no added SO2. These are winegrowers
who promise to be dynamic and forward thinking. Given the excellent quality of the wines right out of the gate, we are beyond excited to see what the
future holds for Manuel and Isaac Cantalapiedra.
La Senda
Bierzo, located in the northwest province of León, is known for its Mencía-based wines with plenty of fruit and spice, as well as an important stop for
travelers who walk the Camino de Santiago. Here, the travel-weary pilgrim will find hearty Castellana food and much-needed repose before crossing
the Cantabrian Mountains into Galicia toward the North Atlantic coast. Diego Losada is in many ways a fellow pilgrim, in search of the "Atlantic" in his
wines, and even named his project La Senda, meaning "the path". Diego originally studied organic chemistry at university, acquainting himself with
winegrowing through a scientific perspective. Eventually, Diego rejected the rigid nature of science, turning to the open-ended and intuitive philosophy
of natural winegrowing. After working at a few larger wineries in the region, Diego decided that he needed to make wine his own way. In 2013, Diego
began by recuperating three small parcels to bottle his first wine. Today, he currently rents 15 parcels totaling just over 5ha, focusing on bush-trained
vines that are at least 60 years old at high elevation, in sites relatively isolated from other vineyards so any chemical treatments cannot taint his soils.
Using organic viticulture, Diego encourages biodiversity, letting the natural flora grow amongst the vines. In the winery, Diego works with extremely
low-intervention since he wants his wines to retain the energy and life of the vineyards. As such, he employs a mix of unlined concrete vats and older
oak and chestnut casks and foudre for fermentation and aging, and there are no pumps, no battonage, and no additives besides minimal amounts of
SO2 when necessary. The results are simply some of the most revolutionary Bierzo wines that we have encountered.
M. Sokolin
After working as a sommelier in San Francisco at Michael Mina and Acquarello, Mitchell Sokolin decided to spend the last several years traveling the
globe learning to make in both hemispheres, at places like Mac Forbes in Australia. Finally, for his first solo project, he has settled down in the
southern part of Castilla y León in Sierra de Salamanca. The grapes for this wine come from a vineyard planted in 2004 as part of research
collaboration with the regional government. Called "La Espaldera" ('trellis' in English), it represents the most comprehensive collection of the known
clones of Rufete. While the trellised, cordon-pruned vines are a departure from the more traditional bush vines of the region, it is tightly planted on a
steep WNW-facing slope of decomposed granite and quartz, supported by hand-built stone terraces. It has been farmed organically (and certified as
such) since it was planted, and the winemaking follows a very minimalist approach, with SO2 as the only addition.
Vevi
The wine region Rueda is located in the heart of Spain, in the southwestern part of Castilla y León. It is high in elevation and possesses a continental
climate with wide shifts between very warm days and cold nights. Rueda has a long tradition of winegrowing and is the ancestral home of the noble
Verdejo grape. Verdejo makes one of the most distinctive white wines in all of Spain. Vevi Rueda is a cuvée made especially for Vinos de Terruños in
collaboration with Silvia García, an organic farmer and vintner with deep roots and intimate knowledge of the Rueda region. Vevi expresses the
unique personality of the native Verdejo and Viura grapes, along with the inherent qualities of the Rueda terruño. It is a balanced, drinkable, and food-
friendly vino blanco. Fermented in stainless steel vat and raised on the lees 6-8 months before bottling.
Aragón
Bielsa
The wine region Cariñena is located just southeast of Navarra in the province of Zaragoza. It is part of the larger political region of Aragón, the area
considered to be the ancestral home of the Garnacha grape. Cariñena possesses an ideal terruño for growing and making wine from old vine
Garnacha. The soils are poor and limestone based. The climate is continental, with hot days to ensure ripening and cool nights to preserve acidity,
along with a unique cooling influence from a wind that blows from the north, called Cierzo. This cooling influence helps give unusually delicate
aromatics and elegant wines from the late-ripening and potentially alcoholic Garnacha grape. Bielsa Garnacha is meant to be a drinkable and food-
friendly wine that expresses the unique personality and inherent qualities of self-sustaining, old vine viticulture and the Cariñena terruño. It is a cuvée
made especially for Vinos de Terruños in collaboration with Ana Becoechea, a vintner with deep roots and intimate knowledge of the Cariñena region.
Fermented and raised 3 months in American barrels. Bottled unfiltered.
Catalonia
Carlania
Carlania is a small family run winery comprised of husband and wife (and Conca de Barberá natives) Jordi Miró and Sònia Gomà-Camps. Jordi
grew up working his family’s vineyards alongside his father, and after working in the port city of Tarragona, the couple decided to settle back in
the countryside of Conca close to their extended families to raise their children in a rural setting and live amongst the vines. Today, the couple
biodynamically farm 13ha of vineyards. As is typical of the region, the vineyards are a mix of 'espaldera' and 'en vaso', and sit at 400-500m elevation
just 20 miles inland from the Mediterranean Sea. This village is the epicenter (and identity) of the Trepat grape, so most of their holdings are Trepat
(along with some Macabeu), with the parcels ranging from 30-40 years old on average, with some vineyards more than 100 years old. Only sulfur
and biodynamic preparations are used in the vineyards, all harvesting is by hand, and since 2015, Jordi and Sònia have vinified their wines
completely without any additives (including SO2) and without fining or filtration. The resultant wines show the years of work that Jordi and Sònia
have put into natural farming and winemaking; they are wonderfully complex, gulpable wines that show pure, mouth-coating Mediterranean flavors
and compliment the cuisine of Carlania's home region.
German Gilabert
Cava is Spain’s most famous sparkling wine. In order to be called Cava, the wine has to be made using 'método tradicional', where the secondary
fermentation happens in the bottle. 95% of Cava is produced in the Penedès area of Catalonia, located just southwest of Barcelona. It is no wonder
that Cava is the drink of choice in the many tapas bars of the great city. The grapes used for German Gilabert come from the subzone Alt Penedès,
where the highest elevation plots are located. Only native grapes are used, the vines are farmed organically, and the wine is bottled without added
sugar or Brut Nature. German Gilabert is a cuvée made especially for Vinos de Terruños in collaboration with a vintner who has deep roots and
intimate knowledge of Cava production. Primary fermentation in stainless steel vats. Secondary fermentation in the bottle, and it is raised on the lees
18-20 months before disgorgement. Bottled with no dosage.
Oriol Artigas
Oriol Artigas came to winegrowing serendipitously. He originally wanted to be a chemist (à la Jules Chauvet), but after working a harvest in Penedès,
Oriol realized that a career in a laboratory wasn’t for him and enrolled in an enology program. After working at several wineries across Catalonia, Oriol
decided to explore his true passion – a project revitalizing old coastal vineyards in his home region of Allela to make supremely transparent, non-
interventionist wines that evoke the nearby Mediterranean – wines laced with garrigue and sea salt. Located just 15km north of Barcelona, Alella is a
lesser-known region but has one of those familiar stories: A vineyard area that dates back to Roman times, once renowned for producing exceptional
wines, and now, thanks to the appetite for seaside real estate, has been whittled down to very little vineyard land. But the proximity to the
Mediterranean, granite soils called 'Sauló', and a plethora of old, native vines has inspired a cadre of growers to set up shop here and work to protect
this area from extinction. Oriol started his current project in 2011. He works 7.5ha in total, with the majority of the vineyards being planted en vaso,
very old, and located around his hometown of Vilassar de Dalt. He allows vegetation to grow between the vines, prunes very little, and works the
vineyards primarily along the lunar calendar. In the winery, fermentations are completely spontaneous, he does not work the must, aging is in steel
vat, neutral French oak, or amphora, and sulfur is only added at bottling if the wine demands it. He makes a wide variety of wines and depending on
what is in each parcel, the wines can be white, orange, pale pink, dark pink, or red in color. All of the wines are co-fermented by vineyard site, and in
some cases, there are as many as 50 different red and white grape varieties that make up the cuvée. The results are some of the most exciting wines
being produced in Catalonia today.
Suriol
It’s a family affair at Suriol, an estate that manages to embody tradition while producing some of the most delicious Cavas and still wines as naturally
as possible. “Naturally” in this case means working only with their 'collita propia' (own vineyards) and certified organic grapes, no added commercial
yeasts or enzymes, very little sulfur additions, and no dosage at bottling of their Cavas. In short, Suriol is the real deal. The Suriol family has lived and
made wine in the same masia, the Castell de Grabuac, in Font-Rubí, Penedès, since the 15th century. Their 25ha of vineyards are divided up into 20
different micro-plots and surround the masia. Located in the Alt Penedès, the higher elevation winegrowing area of the region, the Suriol vineyards are
planted at 250-350m on heavy limestone soils. Originally, the family made wine just for themselves and to sell to local tavernas. It was not until 1985
that, under the leadership of the patriarch Francesc, the family started working seriously to produce Cava and bottling their own sparkling wines. Their
vineyards have been always worked organically, with certification arriving in 1998. In the cellar, the lively and passionate son, Assís Suriol, is in charge
of the winemaking. All the wines are fermented by parcel with wild yeasts in stainless steel vats. The wine is then racked to underground concrete
tanks where the malolactic fermentation occurs naturally over the winter. The Cavas rest on the fine lees until sale. In some cases, such as for the
Gran Reserva wines, the wine can spend ten years or more on the lees. All of Suriol’s work in the vineyard and in the cellar equate to remarkable
expressions of their place and their family’s long history of winegrowing. These are true Vins Catalans with heart and soul.
Castilla-La Mancha
Deya
Sourced from an organic grower in Castilla with a large collection of relatively old, bush-trained vines, Deya comes from several vineyards, between
40 and 50 years old. After a 10 day maceration, the wine is fermented and aged entirely in stainless steel. A fresh take on 100% Tempranillo from
Castilla-La Mancha for a great price.
Envínate
Envínate (meaning 'wine yourself') is the brainchild of four friends, winemakers Roberto Santana, Alfonso Torrente, Laura Ramos, and José Martínez.
This gang of four formed back in 2005 while studying enology at the University of Miguel Hernández in Alicante. Upon graduation, they formed a
winemaking consultancy, which eventually evolved into Envínate, a project that mainly focuses on exploring distinctive parcels in the Atlantic-inflected
regions of Ribeira Sacra and the Canary Islands, as well as other exceptional vineyard plots across the Iberian Peninsula. Their collective aim is to
make profoundly pure and authentic wines that express the terruño of each parcel in a clear and concise manner. To this end, no chemicals are used
in any of the Envínate vineyards, all parcels are picked by hand, the grapes are foot-trodden, and the wines are fermented exclusively with wild yeasts
with a varying proportion of whole grape clusters included. For aging, the wines are raised in old barrels and sulfur is only added at bottling if needed.
The results are some of the most exciting and honest wines being produced in Spain today.
Neyda
Sourced from an organic grower in Castilla with a large collection of relatively old, bush-trained vines, Neyda comes from a single vineyard of nearly
100 year-old vines. After a 20 day maceration and fermentation in stainless steel, the wine ages in French oak and is bottled unfiltered. A great
example of the old-vine history of Castilla-La Mancha for an awesome price.
Valencia
Curii Uvas y Vinos
Curii is the project of couple Alberto Redrado and Violetta Gutiérrez de la Vega, the daughter of the old-fashioned Alicantino estate Gutiérrez de la
Vega. Their aim is to restore old parcels in their native region and make wines with minimal intervention – true Mediterranean wines with lifted
aromatics and pure drinkability. They farm just over 1ha, with parcels ranging from 30-100 years old, and currently bottle one wine from the local
clone of Garnacha called Giró. It is native yeast fermented with whole grape clusters and raised in a mixture of neutral French oak barrels and one
old American oak foudre.
Andalucía
Bodegas Alonso
After years working as a construction engineer, Seville native Fran Asencio and his brother, Fernando, have embarked on one of the most ambitious
projects in the region, attempting to resurrect the historic Pedro Romero bodega after its unfortunate economic collapse in 2014. Located in the
“barrio bajo” in downtown Sanlúcar de Barrameda, the Pedro Romero cellars cover an area of almost 1ha and are full of nearly 10,000 butts of
Sherry dating back to the winery’s founding in 1860, including soleras for legendary brands such as Gaspar Florido, Ánsar Real, and Fernando
Méndez. Located close to the Guadalquivir river in the almost at sea level, the bodega has almost perfect exposure to the west wind, making the
conditions ideal for producing and aging Manzanilla. Aside from these incredible old stocks, the Asencios have also purchased 13ha of their own
vineyards in the Pagos Balbaina and Miraflores, which they will use to refresh 40 old butts from Pedro Romero to make their own Manzanilla with
true vineyard-to-bottle traceability. Meanwhile, they have already bought Manzanilla from other almacenistas to establish a separate solera, which
they are using to help fund their work with the old stocks. The Asencio brothers are acutely aware of the enormous scale of the work needed and
that they are now responsible for a piece of Sanlúcar history, but they are dedicated to the task of keeping these wine jewels alive.
Canary Islands
Dolores Cabrera Fernández
Dolores Cabrera Fernández is a longtime farmer working in the Valle de la Orotava in northern Tenerife, the largest of the Canary Islands. Wine-
growing here dates back to the Spanish conquest of the 15th century, and it is the oldest of the five appellations on the island. Dolores' vineyards
have always been worked organically, with a portion of the parcels being certified organic. After selling her grapes to larger producers for many years,
Dolores started making and bottling her own wine in 2013. The product of her efforts is "La Araucaria", a singular and natural approach to the Listan
Negro grape, the predominant grape of her region. It is sourced from 100+ year-old vines on the slopes of Mount Teide planted using the unique
'cordón trenzado' (braided cord) method. The grapes are hand harvested and 100% destemmed, with primary fermentation in steel tank followed by
aging in old Burgundy barrels for 10 months. Bottled without fining or filtration and very little SO2 added, this is a pure expression of the volcanic
Canary terruño.
Envínate
Envínate (meaning 'wine yourself') is the brainchild of four friends, winemakers Roberto Santana, Alfonso Torrente, Laura Ramos, and José Martínez.
This gang of four formed back in 2005 while studying enology at the University of Miguel Hernández in Alicante. Upon graduation, they formed a
winemaking consultancy, which eventually evolved into Envínate, a project that mainly focuses on exploring distinctive parcels in the Atlantic-inflected
regions of Ribeira Sacra and the Canary Islands, as well as other exceptional vineyard plots across the Iberian Peninsula. Their collective aim is to
make profoundly pure and authentic wines that express the terruño of each parcel in a clear and concise manner. To this end, no chemicals are used
in any of the Envínate vineyards, all parcels are picked by hand, the grapes are foot-trodden, and the wines are fermented exclusively with wild yeasts
with a varying proportion of whole grape clusters included. For aging, the wines are raised in old barrels and sulfur is only added at bottling if needed.
The results are some of the most exciting and honest wines being produced in Spain today.
United States
California
Amplify Wines
Lifelong Santa Barbara natives Marlen and Cameron Porter are the husband-and-wife team behind Amplify Wines. After initially bonding over a shared
love of wine and music, they created Amplify as a natural extension of the marriage between their two greatest passions. As winemakers, they seek to
amplify the voice of a site and enhance the most singular characteristics of a given vineyard, marrying a sense of place with a sense of style. Although
not fans of dogma, there are certain winemaking and farming principles that are central to their beliefs: native yeast fermentations, neutral vessels for
fermentation and aging, no additions of any kind besides sulfur, farming that seeks to establish a healthy ecosystem, enhancing and supporting the
natural characteristics of a given place, and embracing happy accidents and letting intuition be their guide. And by following that intuition, they have
created some gorgeous and authentic wines with a unique voice that is all their own.
Broc Cellars
After growing up in Nebraska and working in Seattle, Chris Brockway arrived in California to study winemaking. Following a textbook education at UC
Davis and Fresno State, Chris’ experience of drinking and enjoying more low-intervention, natural wines persuaded him to take a somewhat different
path than most of his classmates. In 2002, he began working at an urban winery in Oakland before leaving in 2006 to set up his own label from a
small industrial unit in Berkeley. Today, he runs his operation from a slightly bigger premises around the corner, but the focus remains the same:
producing site-specific wines from off-the-beaten-path vineyards or with unique, heritage grapes varieties, working only with fruit that is organically or
biodynamically grown, and taking a decidedly hands-off approach in the cellar, with only natural ferments and no additions other than sulfur when
needed. Chris' work continues to push the boundaries of "The New California", and his wines are some of the most compelling, terroir-expressive
examples being produced in the state today.
Farmstrong
A new project from winemaker Faith Armstrong Foster of Onward, Farmstrong provides an artisanal take on California table wine. Sourced entirely
from sustainable, old vine, dry-farmed vineyards, Faith is working with heritage California grape varieties to create balanced wines that evoke a true
sense of old school California terroir.
Inconnu
Inspired by the French tradition of vin de soif, or “wine of thirst,” Laura Brennan Bissell started Inconnu to create pleasurable, fresh, earth-driven wines
at accessible prices. After internships with Unti and Matthiasson in California, Laura was hooked and decided to start her own project. Working closely
with growers who farm organically (either working or certified), Laura is sourcing fruit unique vineyard sites across California, with the goal to display
their distinctive characteristics through subtle winemaking. Fermentations are spontaneous, sulfur is kept to a minimum, and there are no other
interventions in the cellar. The resulting wines are bright, mineral, and highly drinkable, showing a great devotion to the craft while still being priced
well enough to enjoy every day.
Onward
Winemaker Faith Armstrong Foster has truly worked her way up through every aspect of the wine business; from tasting room manager, to marketing,
to lab technician and assistant winemaker, to finally, in 2009, launching her own label with Onward. Although she does some fascinating work with
Malvasia (and a few other varieties for some cool projects in the works), the focus at Onward is definitely on Pinot Noir, which is Faith’s favorite variety
both to work with and to enjoy. Faith sources from two vineyards for her Pinot, "Hawkeye Ranch" in Redwood Valley, and "Cerise Vineyard" in
Anderson Valley. "Hawkeye" is farmed sustainably and organically by fifth generation family farmers, and is planted to old vine Martini clone. "Cerise"
is a steep hillside vineyard, farmed biodynamically, with super thin, hard, and marginal soils, resulting in low yields, but some of the best quality in
California. Working exclusively with these cool climate vineyard sites, coupled with Faith's minimal intervention approach during the winemaking
process, allows for some of the truest expressions of Pinot Noir in California.
Oregon
Art+Science
By day, Dan Rinke is the winemaker and vineyard manager at the biodynamic Johan Vineyards. But Rinke's labor of love is Art+Science, where he
has been crafting tiny-production wine and natural cider since 2011. Dan is the "science" part of the equation, taking care of production and farming,
while his artist wife Kim Hamblin fashions the evocative cut-paper art that adorns each bottle, all done at Roshambo Art Farm – their rock quarry,
music venue, and working farm. Dan's leading philosophy is one of respect, utilizing organic and biodynamic farming principles, eliminating synthetic
fertilizers, herbicides, and fungicides, and using only their own cow manure and biodynamic preparations made from plants growing on the property.
The same philosophies that are used in the vineyards are also applied in the winery, where the only addition during the winemaking process is a small
amount of sulfur, and only right before bottling. Since 2013, Dan and Kim have also begun foraging for old, unsprayed, wild apples, pears, and quince
in the western side of the Willamette Valley, making some of the most exciting, complex renditions of natural cider and perry in the States today.
Holden
Sterling Whitted and Michael Garofola continue to push the boundaries of Oregon wine working out of the Medici cellar in the hills north of Newberg.
They work primarily with Northern Italian varieties like Vermentino, Dolcetto, Nebbiolo, and a Friuli-style Sauvignon Blanc while also producing
detailed, elegant renditions of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Sterling previously worked at Owen Roe, Cameron, and Teutonic Wine Company while
studying advanced enology at Oregon State University. He started the Holden in 2011 and for several years made micro bottlings in a range of styles.
Michael, one of Portland’s most esteemed sommeliers, joined the business a few years later. The current line up maintains an adventurous spirit but
with a new level of sophistication. All fermentations are with native yeast, and SO2 use is kept to a minimum leading to some of the freshest, most
compelling wines coming out of the state today.
Minimus
Minimus is a science project for Chad Stock, winemaker at Johan Vineyards. The name reflects his philosophy that to produce the most pure and
natural product, one must use minimal interference. Each wine is the result of an experiment designed to challenge Chad's formal education in
Enology. The resulting wines, should they survive the experiment, are numbered in the order that they are released, and will be produced only once.
Chad keeps track of each experiment in his journal, documenting every aspect of the process including conception, implementation, vineyard site
selection, and much, more more. Ultimately, his goal is to use these experiments to grow as a winemaker, and to some day to write a craft
winemaking book about the experience.
Omero Cellars
Established in 2009, Omero is a small (10ha) family owned vineyard and winery located in the heart of the Ribbon Ridge AVA in the northern
Willamette Valley. The estate is farmed organically, with a focus on maintaining the natural biodiversity of the land through minimal intervention, dry
farming, native cover crops, and the integration of livestock, most notably the 21 sheep that roam the property. In 2014, Omero brought on Chad
Stock of Minimus to take over all winemaking duties and increase their focus on making distinctive, authentic, natural wines. Chad has incorporated
some biodynamic principles, native yeast fermentations, and more transparent, minimalist winemaking to create a range of acid driven, food friendly
wines that truly reflect the terroir of this unique place.
New York
Bellwether
In a relatively short amount of time, Kris Matthewson of Bellwether has proven himself to be one of the Finger Lakes' most talented and thoughtful
winemakers. Unlike most of his peers, Kris talks about texture more than residual sugar (or the lack thereof), he talks about depth and definition more
than alcohol, acidity and minerality more than fruit. As befitting a young winemaker in a young region, Kris is exploring the possibilities, and he has no
use for dogma. That said, a few things are non-negotiable: all the fruit is hand-picked, fermentations are slow, bottling is late, and releases are even
later. While Bellwether has gotten a lot of attention for the pét-nats, the Pinot Noir à la Jura, and the low-sulfur, wild-ferment Riesling, the more
traditional, single-vineyard Rieslings are easily among the most pristine and riveting coming out of this region as well.
Mexico
Baja California
Bichi
Mexico has a centuries-long history of winemaking that has mostly gone under the radar. Spanish conquistadores planted vines in the early 1500’s
(before both Chile and Argentina) and Baja California represents about 90% of the vines in the entire country due to the ideal climate and geography.
The soils are mainly sandy loam over granite, and some of the most distinctive vineyards are planted as high as 2500ft in elevation. The nearby
Pacific Ocean brings a lovely spine of salinity into the wines and helps moderate temperatures. Brothers Noel and Jair Téllez, with the help of Chilean
(by way of Burgundy) winemaker Louis-Antoine Luyt, are producing amazingly fresh and energetic wines from very old, recently recovered vineyards
of Misión (aka Listán Prieto), Rosa del Peru (aka Moscatel Negro), Tempranillo, and Cariñena, among other unknown varieties. Bichi means "naked"
in some parts of northern Mexico, and for Téllez and Luyt, it thus seemed like an appropriate name to give their new natural wine project. Bichi farms
10ha of their own vineyards biodynamically and collaborates with a growing family of organic farmers working vineyard land in Tecate and around
Valle de Guadalupe. In the winery, grapes are destemmed by hand and gently trodden by foot, and fermentations are carried out by wild yeast in
locally-made concrete amphorae. Inside the bottles are incredibly vibrant and transparent wines that evoke the nearby Pacific Ocean, the granite
soils, and rugged mountain vineyards of their region. Through the persistent work of the family and their farmers and collaborators, lively Baja wine is
officially on the map.
Argentina
Mendoza
Campo
We are proud to introduce Campo. Old-vine, organically-farmed fruit, made with low intervention: wild yeast fermentation, no acid adjustments, no new
oak... Pure, straight-forward Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon from Argentina that don’t taste like blueberry pie!
Bere Aran
Bere Aran is an all-natural hard cider from the Basque Country of northern Spain. It is made using traditional methods from fermented juice from 60
different native apple varietals. Founded in 1870 in Astigarraga, the Bereziartua family has been making cider for 4 generations. Fermentation takes
place in small stainless steel tanks and the cider then rests in large neutral oak barrels for 2-6 months. Only native yeasts are used and no sugar or
carbonation is added.
Italy – Trentino
Distilleria Francesco
Francesco Poli’s vineyards (550m/1800ft) can be found along the emerald-colored alpine lake of Santa Massenza, in the Trentino area of Trentino-
Alto Adige. Francesco Poli’s son, Alessandro, now works and oversees them along with the cantina. Alessandro works mostly with the native grape
varieties of the area: the delicate and herbal red, Schiava, and the lithe alpine white, Nosiola. Working with native yeast fermentations, his cellar style
remains minimalist with the precision and timing of a good cellar master. He has always believed in organic farming, and the winery obtained organic
certification in 1989 (and they now also employ several biodynamic techniques and preparations). Distilleria Francesco is the other face of Francesco
Poli. Besides wine, Poli is equally known for his detailed and delicately textured herbal infusions and various bottlings of grappa produced on the
property with a wood-burning, copper 'bagnomaria' water bath still.
Italy – Veneto
Le Vigne di Alice
Sisters-in-law Cinzia Canzian and Pier Francesca Bonicelli started Alice in 2004 to fulfill their dream of bottling artisanal Prosecco thatʼs all their
own: estate fruit, pre-Dolomite, grower Prosecco. We call it Prosecco for non-Prosecco lovers (a category that includes us). In addition to their
exceptional sparkling wines, the women also continue on the tradition of producing a small amount of Amaro. Previously, this Amaro was reserved
just for friends and family that came to visit at Cinzia's grandmother's osteria in Vittorio Veneto (she is the 'Alice' in 'Le Vigne di Alice'). Luckily, we
managed to convince them to sell us whatever extra they could so we have a small amount to share with you today.
Scarpa
We sometimes assume that the great, historic producers in Italy are all well-known in the U.S. But ask the old timers: "I remember Scarpa…"
Antica Casa Vinicola Scarpa has been producing traditional, aristocratic wines in the Monferrato hills of southeast Piemonte for 150 years. They
have vineyards, farmed organically, in the Langhe as well as the Monferrato. Mario Pesce, admired by both Giacosa and Gaja, made Scarpa’s
reputation in the late 20th century, and today Maria Pier Zola and her family carry on his tradition of aging all the wines for years, and sometimes
decades before release. Traditional sometimes means 'rustic', but that's not the case here; Scarpa produces elegant wines with arrow-like acidity
and well-aged tannins. Bottle evolution and vintage characteristics emerge instead of pointillist fruit. Be on the lookout for releases from the
family's 45,000+ bottle library.
Italy – Sardegna
Silvio Carta
The Carta family has been making (and storing) wine in the sleepy coastal town of Oristano for generations. The local grape is Vernaccia (though not
the one from Gimignano). The vine was possibly introduced by the Phoenicians or it was cultivated from wild vines of the Tirso valley. The style is
"oxidative", but no Englishman created or discovered this wine (as happened in Marsala). And maybe that’s a shame because these wines deserve
to be better known outside their home. The wine is vinified dry, and the nose is chalky and intriguing. Multiple aged vintages are available. The
register is something new for us, falling somewhere amid the mineral tones of Fino, the nuttiness of Marsala, and a bit of passito fruit.
Wine Cocktails
France
Pampelonne
Inspired by the beaches of the French Riviera and the lighthearted spirit of St. Tropez, Pampelonne is a sparkling French wine cocktail created with
fresh, all natural ingredients. With a keen interest for lively acidity and freshness, Pampelonne sources French wine from regions like Muscadet and
Picpoul de Pinet to create cocktails that are crafted with brightness and balance in mind. With all natural ingredients, no preservatives, and no
mystery Pampelonne embodies the simple sophistication of the south of France with the unpretentious ease of a ready-to-drink package.
France
Domaine du Trapadis Rasteau Vin Doux Naturel Grenat 2015 Grenache/Carignan 500mL 6* MFW 553343
Domaine de Saint Pierre Vin de Liqueur "Les Larmes du Paradis" NV Chardonnay/Trousseau 750mL 6* MFW 570474
Julien Thurel "Cydromel" 2013 Apples/Honey 750mL 3* MFW 562075
Austria
Tinhof Burgenland Aperitiv NV Weißburgunder/Neuburger 500mL 8 CH 542553
Italy
Corte Sant'Alda Recioto della Valpolicella 2013 Corvina Grossa/Rondinella 500mL 6 PV 566679
Spain
Alfredo Maestro "La Cosa – The Thing" VdlT Castilla y León 2014 Moscatel de Alejandría 375mL 6 JPS 574442
Gutiérrez de la Vega "Casta Diva Cosecha Miel" VdM 2013 Moscatel de Alejandría 500mL 12* JPS
Gutiérrez de la Vega "Recóndita Armonía" VdM Tinto 2013 Monastrell 500mL 12* JPS
United States
East Hollow Cider "A Bee and A Tree" Imperial Cyser NV Wild Apples/Honey 375mL 12* MFW 592290
Eden Ice Cider "Heirloom Blend" NV ('13) Empire/McIntosh/++ 375mL 6* MFW 569675
Eden Ice Cider "Windfall Orchard" NV Heirloom Blend 375mL 6* MFW 569676
Eden Ice Cider "Northern Spy Barrel-Aged" NV ('13) Northern Spy 375mL 6* MFW 569677
Big Bottles
Name Vintage Grapes Size Pack Importer SLO Code
Sparkling/Pét-Nat
France
Bernard Vallette "Née Bulleuse" VMQ Rosé NV Gamay 1.5L 6 MFW 562442
Julien Thurel Cidre "Champêtre" 2016 Apples 1.5L 1 MFW 590061
Julien Thurel Cidre "Nectar" 2016 Apple 1.5L 1 MFW 590060
Piollot Champagne "Champs Rayés" Brut Nature NV ('13) Chardonnay 1.5L 6* MFW 575888
United States
Onward Suisun Valley Malvasia Bianca Pétillant Naturel 2015 Malvasia Bianca 1.5L 6* MFW 570662
Aaron Burr Cidery Homstead Cider "Sullivan County" NV Wild Apples 1.5L 3 MFW 577197
White Wine
France
Domaine des Gandines Viré-Clessé "Climat Les Gandines" 2014 Chardonnay 1.5L 6 MFW 577180
Germany
Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Spätlese Feinherb (11) 2016 Riesling 1.5L 6 MFW 584439
Italy
Bella Vita Pinot Grigio IGP Veneto 2016 Pinot Grigio 1.5L 6 MFW 538943
Spain
Alfredo Maestro "Lovamor" VdlT Castilla y León 2016 Albillo Real 1.5L 6 JPS 582792
Envínate "Benje" VdM Blanco 2016 Listan Blanco 1.5L 3 JPS 589408
Envínate "Táganan" VdM Blanco 2016 Albillo/Marmajuelo/Gual/++ 1.5L 3 JPS 589411
Rosé Wine
France
Domaine du Chapitre Côtes du Rhône Rosé 2016 Grenache/Clairette Rose/++ 1.5L 6 MFW 580529
Bernard Vallette "La Rose Gorge" VdF Rosé 2016 Gamay 1.5L 6 MFW 582812
Nicolas Gonin IGP Isère-Balmes Dauphinoises Rosé 2016 Mondeuse 1.5L 3 MFW 585966
Spain
Alfredo Maestro "Amanda" VdlT Castilla y León Rosado 2016 Garnacha Tintorera 1.5L 6 JPS 582793
Italy
Bella Vita Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2015 Montepulciano 1.5L 6 MFW 538945
Spain
Envínate "Lousas – Viñas de aldea" VdM Tinto 2015 Mencía 1.5L 3 JPS 583464
Envínate "Benje" VdM Tinto 2016 Listan Prieto/Tintilla 1.5L 3 JPS 589410
United States
Bow & Arrow Willamette Valley "Rhinestones" 2015 Pinot Noir/Gamay 1.5L 6 MFW 571829
Order Details
Order deadline:
− Philadelphia: Tuesday, 3:00 PM
− Pittsburgh: Monday, 3:00 PM
Order approval deadline in LOOP:
− Philadelphia: Same day order is placed by 3:00 PM
− Pittsburgh: Tuesday, 3:00 PM
Delivery schedule:
− Philadelphia and Suburbs: Wednesday
− Pittsburgh: Friday
Full cases sales only, except wines with a pack size marked with *
For items less than $25/btl, a case can be split, as long as the
remainder of the case is filled (i.e. 6+6, or 4+4+4, etc.).