Handloom Industry and Its Economic Impact-A Study of Nagaon District With Special Focus On Gerjaipam Village
Handloom Industry and Its Economic Impact-A Study of Nagaon District With Special Focus On Gerjaipam Village
Handloom Industry and Its Economic Impact-A Study of Nagaon District With Special Focus On Gerjaipam Village
ABSTRACT : The handloom sector plays a strategic role in the upliftment of rural economy of
India. Even today, the rural people of India mostly women grossly depend on the handloom sector after
Agriculture, which requires minimum capital and less technical skills and also gives them a dependable
source on income. In Assam , the handloom sector has an overwhelming presence in its socio economic
life. Assam is proud owner of more than 13 lakhs looms out of the total 28 lakhs looms of the country.
The present study is mainly concerned with Nagaon District with special focus on Gerjaipam Village of
Kachua Cluster. The Study is based on both primary and secondary data. Interview was conducted on
50 households randomly selected from 600 household of the area with uniformly designed
questionnaire. From the field study it was found that the sector has an important role to play in
improving the financial condition of the villagers. Though the weavers who own the looms had sound
financial position but the economic condition of other daily wage weavers was not so good. The main
reason for this was their illiteracy and lack of proper support from various Government schemes. But
still the Gerjaipam village occupies a distinct place in the economy of Assam due to its huge production
of Handloom products .
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I. Introduction:
The Small Scale Industry (SSI) sector in India presents a wide spectrum consisting of
tiny, cottage and village industries and modern sunrise industries. This sector occupies a
predominant position in the labour surplus economy of the country because of its advantage in
terms of low cost, higher potential to generating employment, concentration in both rural and
urban areas. The definition of SSI includes the traditional industries like Handloom, Handicraft
and coir , Khadi and Village industries, Sericulture which are generally minimum technology
based and located mostly in rural and semi urban areas , producing goods with the help of
simple tools but with rich traditional and inherited skills. The other segment of this sector
Among all the components of SSIs, the present study focuses on the handloom sector
which still plays a strategic role in the upliftment of rural economy of the country. Even today,
the rural people of India mostly women, grossly depend on the handloom sector after
Agriculture, which requires minimum capital and less technical skills, but earns for them a
livelihood which is otherwise a distant dream for the illiterate folks of the country.As per the
Handloom Census Report, 2009-1010 conducted by the National Council of Applied Economic
Research(NCEAR), In India, there are 43.31 lakh handloom workers in the country, out of
which 36.33 lakh workers (84%) stay in rural areas and 6.98(16%) lakh workers stay in urban
areas. Most of the adult workers are female (77%) and the number of male workers (23%) is
comparatively smaller. As opposed to female workers belonging to rural areas, a relatively
higher proportion of male handloom workers are located in urban areas. As per the Third
Handloom Census10, about 7.35 billion days of employment was generated during the year
2009-10 in the handloom sector, of which 5.31 billion days were generated in weaving
activities by weavers, 2.04 billion days were generated in the handloom allied activities by
allied workers. Among all the states of India, the North Eastern states dominate the handloom
sector. The NE states refers to the easternmost region of the country which is linguistically and
culturally very distinct from the other states of the country. Over 53 per cent of the looms in
the country and more than 50 per cent of the weavers belong to the North-Eastern States
(Ministry of Textiles, 2010)4 .The physical setting, climate, flora and fauna, population and
settlements are responsible for the uniqueness of the textiles when compared with those woven
textiles by the other states of the country5.
Again among all the NE states, in Assam , the handloom sector has an overwhelming
presence in its socio economic life. Handloom is the largest cottage industry of the state
flourishing since time immemorial. It is providing quite a good employment in the state,
particularly to the rural women. Mahatma Gandhi made no exaggeration when he remarked
“Every woman in Assam is a born weaver. No Assamese girl can expect to become a wife if
she does not weave. And she weaves fairy tales. Some of the old pattern were of matchless
beauty”. Even former President, Sri APJ Kalam while visiting Sualkuchi, the Manchester of
Assam had remarked that if Assam could produce another 20 Sualkuchi‟s , then the scenario of
Assam to the National and International arena would have been different. Weaving is
inexorably linked with Assamese culture and heritage. According to tradition,the primary
qualification of a girl in her wedding was her “Skill to Weave”. Because of this reason perhaps,
Assam has the largest concentration of handloom and weavers in India3.As per the Handloom
Census Report 2009-1010, Assam occupies the top position in respect of Statewise distribution
of handloom workers with 124100 housholds sharing 21.7%of the total households in the state.
Assam is proud owner of more than 13 lakh looms out of the total 28 lakhs looms of the
As per the Statistical Handbook of Assam, 20128, the Handloom and Textile Department
of Assam runs 102 Handloom Training Centres where in 1390 weavers were trained in 2011-
2012, 98 numbers of Weavers Extension Service Unit in which total production in 2011-2012
was 93714.04 meters and 20 Handloom Production Centres in which the total production in the
same year was 15487.35 meters. Besides this, there are 4 Handloom Training Institute and 1
Power Loom Centre under Training Programme, One Handloom Research and Designing
Centre and one production procurement centre under production programme to assist the
weavers with skill upgradation backward and forward linkage in taking handloom as a self
employment venture. The Assam Government Marketing Corporation is the state level
organization to look after the weavers of the state. The three –structured Co-operative sector
consists of more than 3634 Primary level, 22 District Level and 2 apex Co-operative societies
covered about 33% weaver population of the state. At present , the Directorate of Handloom
and Textiles covered 13078 villages of the state under its 209 Handloom Demonstration circles
with 1174675 weavers for its Handloom activities. The production of Handloom Fabrics was
215 million meters during the year 2011-2012 as against 217 million meters produced during
2010-2011. During 2009-2010, the production of Handloom fabric was 174.11 million metres7.
In 2011-2012, the Handloom sector provided part time engagement to 1019667 no of weavers
and full time engagement to 155008 no of weavers. For publicity of the developmental
programmes and creating awareness about the handloom products of the state a total of 60
numbers of District level fairs have been organised in 2011-2012 as against 55 numbers in
2010-2011 , 23 numbers of Special Handloom Expos organized in 2011-2012 as against 17 in
2010-2011 and 6 Numbers of International Handloom expo in both 2010-2011 and 2011-
20128.
For strengthening the Handloom Sector, Various developmental schemes have been
undertaken by the State Government to increase the production, productivity and Self
Employment. The Government of Assam has proposed to establish one Handloom trade Centre
at Dibrugarh to give more exposure to the Handloom fabrics produced in the state as well as to
create Commercial motivation amongst the weavers. Besides this, the state government has
proposed to set up 6 dying houses, 27 yarn banks in each district headquarter, One Design
studio, and one garment factory(Jorhat). The state Government has also undertaken
implementable programmes like Trade related Entrepreneurship Development of Urban
weavers, Chief Employment Generation Programme, Economic upliftment Package, Chief
Minister‟ special scheme etc. the state government also proposed to implement a new financial
package to Handloom sector involving issue of Weaver‟s Card, Yarn Passbook through
NABARD. However the co-operative coverage of 45% of the state‟s weaver population is very
poor which has been proposed to be raised to 50% during the 12th Five Year Plan period7.
VI. Methodology :
The present study is mainly concerned with Nagaon District, the most populous district
of Assam and well known for its Handloom products after Sualkuchi with special focus on
Kachua Cluster. The study used both primary and secondary data. Primary data of 50
households and a total of 200 weavers (respondents) engaged with the sector directly were
collected from the Gerjaipam Village of Kachua Cluster through uniformly designed interview
questionnaire. However, respondents in the village were identified through random sampling
method. Secondary data were collected from various reports like Statistical Handbook of
Assam 2012, Assam Economic Survey 2012-2013, information received from the Department
of Handloom and Textiles, Nagaon.
Nagaon district boasts of producing a large quantity of handlloom products. The actual
and targeted levels of production in the last 3 financial years are as follows:-
2013-14* 21 20.01
Having received the above cited information from the Department of Handloom and
Textiles, Nagaon, a decision was taken to make a field study of one of the villages weaving
commercially to have stock of the ground realities. For this Gerjaipam Village was selected
which is located about 42 kms away from the Nagaon Town.
Gerjaipam village belongs to the Kachua Cluster of Nagaon district. The rural artisan
cluster which is define as, „geographically concentrated household units producing
handicraft/handloom products, often belong to a traditional community, producing the long-
established products for generations and the skill of centuries old‟2. The Kachua Cluster
consists of the following villages:- Gerjaipam, Kachua No 1, Kachua No 2 , Rangalubasti,
Kandapara, Satlunga, Biringati, Ali tangani, Jurirpar, Ramanipathar, Hatikhuti, Rajali and
Fakali. However, Handloom weaving is done mostly in Gerjaipam, Kachua No 1& 2,
Rangalubasti, Kandapara and Ali tangani. Among all of them, in Gerjaipam the handloom
weaving is done on extensive scale. Out of the total 6000 weavers of this cluster almost 3000
belong to Gerjaipam Village. Near about 600 households are involved with this profession
purely on commercial basis. These are their traditional business , passed on to next generations
by their ancestors.
Majority of the weavers interviewed were of the age between 17- 73 years who were
mostly Bengali Hindus belonging to Debnath, Das and Biswas Community and some also
belonging to Muslim community. They live in Kaccha , semi Pacca and some also in Pacca
houses with spacious loom shed. Weaving is the only source of Income as no agricultural
During the survey, it was found that in all the villages there were only Pit Looms in
operation which are fixed to the ground. Though Fly shuttle Looms were distributed by the
Governmant but as per the assertion of the respondents they were not comfortable with the Fly
Shuttle Looms . Besides their own Pit Looms could produce more output than the Fly Shuttle
Looms which also require less space than the latter. It is worth mentioning that all the weavers
did not possess their own loom – many of them (almost 74.8%) work as wage labourers under
Master weaver who owns the loom solely. When asked about the reason of the same , the reply
came as mainly their lack of ability to purchase the loom and secondly, the lack of sufficient
space to place the loom. The looms are made of wood and any kind of repairing works are
done in the shops located in the local market place. Sometimes persons from Nabadweep are
also hired for repairing works done. The clothes are produced with cotton yarn , Thailand yarn
and also of polyester yarn. These are purchased from the local traders as mentioned above. The
yarns are bought without bleach and they are dyed by the weavers themselves. The following
figures shows the pit looms used , the drum that is used to segregate the yarns and the dying of
yarns:-
Fig 1 & 2:- The Drum that is used to segregate the yarn into different colours.
It was informed that the weavers have to purchase the yarns from the local traders at a
higher price due to their inability to purchase them directly from the market. To buy yarns
directly from the local market, orders have to be placed in bulk and the weavers did not have
sufficient money for that. However, the yarns are purchased as and when required only which
are available in sufficient quantity with the local traders. It was found that all the households
are self sufficient i.e. they do the whole business on their own- from the purchase of yarn to
selling of the produce to various markets. The clothes of this area is sold to almost all the parts
of state- Dibrugarh, Lakhimpur, Karbi Anglong, Jorhat, Nagaon, Barpeta,Nalbari , Guwahati to
The weavers (around 200) under the Master Weavers were also interviewed to cross
check the answers given by the Master Weavers. All the weavers are full time workers , they
work for 6 days in a week and almost 8 hours on average per day. Each of the weavers are able
to weave 3-8 gamochas in a day and one gamocha fetches them Rs 12-30 depending on its
quality and size. Besides one weaver can weave 3sets of Mekhela Chadar perday which gives
them Rs 70- Rs 90 remuneration per piece separately, one piece of Seleng Chador also fetches
them Rs 25 per piece and a set with blouse piece earns for them Rs 180/-. They also weave
Karbi Pini which fetches them Rs 100-Rs 150 per day, Karbi Muffler earning them Rs 100 to
Rs 150 for 4 piece and Karbi Jacket giving them Rs 100-135 per piece per day. However the
figures mentioned above give only exclusive items of work i.e. a weaver can weave only one
item of the above mentioned amount per day. Again the work depends mainly on the demands
of the market.
The handloom industry has made its owners quite self sufficient. Their output are quite
well in demand. Besides, since the whole of the works are done solely by themselves hence,
no agent system exists and no money is drained. Kachua and specially Gerjaipam is the biggest
producer of Handloom products especially Gamochas in Assam at present. They get handsome
amount annually from this sector. When asked about the selling prices otehir produce we were
informed as follows:-
Though the state Government has implemented various schmes for financial help of the
weavers as already mentioned , but the weavers of this area has been deprived from any
financial benefit. None of the weavers have given a positive reply on receiving of loans. As
regards training, in 2012-13, 60 new weavers were trained on new designes. However it was
seen that the weavers were themselves not interested in receiving training. Their common reply
was that if they would go for training, then their daily wages will be forfeited and there is no
compensation from Governments side regarding this. Yarns were also distributed by the Govt
but in very small quantity. Among other schemes of Government , as per official Sources 300
weavers have been covered by the Mahatma Gandhi Boonkar Yojana in 2012 and these have
also been confirmed by the Weavers though they were unaware of the name of the scheme.
About 2000 households have been covered by the Health Insurance Scheme-ICICI Lambard
which gives them Rs 15000/- free treatment per year. But due to some reasons the facilities
could not have been availed by the beneficiaries. After mentioning the above, it is to add that
the economic condition of those who own the looms is quite sound though the weavers who
work on daily wage basis are still struggling with their fate. Some Government aid in the form
of supplying looms, Yarns and other sort of finance would be of immense help at this point.
i) The most important problem of this sector is the lack of value addition. The output
produced by the weavers are not of that quality which are required by the present day
customers. There is always an undesired gap between what the weavers produce and what the
customers of this age desire. But to utter dismay, the weavers are satisfied with their income
and there is no urge to learn about the new designs that are coming up and new innovative
technology.
ii) Threat from outside products have also been a cause of concern for this sector. Some of
the weavers complained that their demand has fallen due to arrival of cheap foreign products.
Though the quality of outside products were inferior to theirs but due to lack of any specific
indication and lower prices, the customers are being easily duped by the traders.
iii) Lack of sufficient help from the government side. Though a lot of schemes are there
for
the weavers but their practical applicability is very limited. Till today none of the weavers
have received any loan from the Handloom Co-operative Society through the Weavers Credit
Card. Again while providing the training there is no provision of paying Stipend to the
weavers which could otherwise have compensated for their lost wages.
v) Lack of use of power looms. Use of power loom has the advantage of producing quality
products at larger quantity at an affordable rate. But due to shortage of power supply these
loom could not be used by the weavers as informed.
Suggestions:-
ii) Stipend should be given to the weavers at the time of training. This
would encourage the weavers to come up by sparing some time from their looms
and lean new motifs and also enrich their knowledge of modern upcoming designs.
iv) The retailers, traders, NGOs and government should take part in
promoting and advertising handloom products1. If marketing responsibility is given
to a third party, then the weavers can devote more time in producing clothes which
will be qualitatively and quantitavely much superior.
Conclusion:-
The handloom sector of the Gerjaipam village gives a unique picture of the flourish
ness of the dying handloom sector the country. Each of the villagers are very intimately related
with the loom of their houses. It has also made Nagaon a well known place of handloom
products. But inspite of all these, some unwillingness have evolved in the mind of some of the
weavers to let their descendents to continue in this profession. This is quite disheartening and
the reason behind this should be interpreted and all round efforts must be made to revive this
important and unique industry. Still we can be proud of our Handloom industry which has the
full potential of representing the state from the ramp of the Fashion industry of the country and
even to the Intentional Platform. The only thing that is needed is to change the outlook of our
weavers and also of the people of the country.
References:-
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BTAD, Assam” Global Research Methodology Journal, V0l-II, 8th issue, Feb-Mar-
Apr,.
[2] Das Rinku and Das Ashim Kumar,(2011): “Industrial Cluster: An Approach for Rural
Development in North East India” International Journal of Trade, Economics and
Finance, Vol. 2, No. 2, April.
[3] Phukan Dr Raju, (2012): “Handloom Weaving in Assam: Problems and Prospect”
GLOBAL JOURNAL OF HUMAN SOCIAL SCIENCE, Volume 12 Issue 8 Version
1.0 May .
[5] Pandya. Amit and Thoudem. Joymati,(2010): “Handloom Weaving , the Tradional
Craft of Manipur”, Indian Journal of Traditional Knowledge Vol 9 (4), Oct , pp 651-
655.
[6] Khasnabis Ratan and Nag Pranab,(2001): “ Labour Process in the informal sector- A
Handloom Industry in Nadia District” Epw December 29.