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Havana
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Why Go?
Downtown Havana. . . . 54 Ah…Havana, city of jarring paradoxes and unfathomable
Playa & Marianao . . . 122 contradictions where seductive beauty sidles up to spectacu-
Parque Lenin . . . . . . . . 131 lar decay and revolutionary iconography is juxtaposed with
sun, sea, sand, sex and a diluting slice of austere socialism.
Santiago de las
There’s fascinating history here, wrapped up in erudite mu-
Vegas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133
seums and foresighted restoration projects, and tremendous
Regla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134 music too, from gritty street rumba to kitschy cabaret. But
Guanabacoa. . . . . . . . 135 Havana’s greatest allure is its street theater, the raw snippets
Cojímar. . . . . . . . . . . . 136 of everyday life that go on all around you: the mother in
Casablanca. . . . . . . . . 137 rollers and the baseball-playing schoolkids, the wandering
troubadours and the cigar-smoking doctor trying to jump-
Playas del Este. . . . . . 137
start his 1951 Plymouth. The attraction is the authenticity.
Habaneros (the people of Havana) don’t just survive: they
Best Places to Eat duck and dive, scheme and dream, create and debate, but
most of all, they live – with a rare passion.
»» Los Nardos (p102)
»» Paladar la Guarida (p103)
»» Restaurante el Template
(p99) When to Go
»» Restaurante la Divina One of Havana’s most outstanding music festivals is the Fes-
Pastora (p102) tival Internacional de Jazz, which is held each year in Febru-
»» La Imprenta (p99) ary. Don’t miss it! Havana’s summer heat can be stifling. To
avoid it, come in October, a wonderfully quiet month when
there’s still plenty to do – such as enjoy the annual Festival
Best Places Internacional de Ballet. Busier (for a reason) is December,
to Stay when people line up for the Festival del Nuevo Cine Latino-
americano, Cuba’s premiere movie shindig.
»» Hostal Condes de
Villanueva (p83)
»» Hotel NH Parque
Central (p86)
»» Hotel San Felipe y
Santiago de Bejúcal (p83)
»» Hotel Meliá Habana (p124)
»» Hotel Victoria (p97)
 History was added. These defenses kept the pirates
In 1514 San Cristóbal de La Habana was at bay but proved ineffective when Spain 51
founded on the south coast of Cuba near became embroiled in the Seven Years’ War
the mouth of the Río Mayabeque by Span- with Britain, the strongest maritime power
ish conquistador Pánfilo de Narváez. Named of the era.
after the daughter of a famous Taíno Indian On June 6, 1762, a British army under the
chief, the city was moved twice during its Earl of Albemarle attacked Havana, landing
first five years due to mosquito infestations at Cojímar and striking inland to Guanaba-

Havana

and wasn’t permanently established on its coa. From there they drove west along the
present site until December 17, 1519. Accord- northeastern side of the harbor, and on July
ing to local legend, the first Mass was said 30 they attacked El Morro from the rear.
beneath a ceiba tree in present-day Plaza de Other troops landed at La Chorrera, west


Armas. of the city, and by August 13 the Spanish
Havana is the most westerly and isolated were surrounded and forced to surrender.
of Diego Velázquez’ original villas, and life The British held Havana for 11 months. (The
was hard in the early days. Things didn’t get same war cost France almost all its colonies
any better in 1538 when French pirates and in North America, including Québec and
local slaves razed the city. Louisiana – a major paradigm shift.)
It took the Spanish conquest of Mexico When the Spanish regained the city a year
and Peru to swing the pendulum in Ha- later in exchange for Florida, they began a
vana’s favor. The town’s strategic location, at crash building program to upgrade the city’s
the mouth of the Gulf of Mexico, made it a defenses in order to avoid another debilitat-
perfect nexus for the annual treasure fleets ing siege. A new fortress, La Cabaña, was
to regroup in its sheltered harbor before built along the ridge from which the British
heading east. Thus endowed, its ascension had shelled El Morro, and by the time the
was quick and decisive, and in 1607 Havana work was finished in 1774, Havana had be-
replaced Santiago as the capital of Cuba. come the most heavily fortified city in the
The city was sacked by French pirates led New World, the ‘bulwark of the Indies.’
by Jacques de Sores in 1555; the Spanish re- The British occupation resulted in Spain
plied by building the La Punta and El Morro opening Havana to freer trade. In 1765 the
forts between 1558 and 1630 to reinforce an city was granted the right to trade with
already formidable protective ring. From seven Spanish cities instead of only Cádiz,
1674 to 1740, a strong wall around the city and from 1818 Havana was allowed to ship

Havana In…

Two Days
Explore Habana Vieja by strolling the streets between the four main colonial squares.
There are a plethora of museums, so you’ll want to weed out the good ones. The Museo
de la Ciudad is a highlight in the colonial core, while in Centro Havana don’t miss the
Museo de la Revolución and the dual-sited Museo de Bellas Artes. You can cover a lot
of ground on Havana’s open-topped bus tour, although the Malecón sea drive is best
plied on foot. For nightlife, soak up the nocturnal essence of Habana Vieja, dipping into
bars on Calle Obispo and Plaza Vieja.

Four Days
With two extra days, make sure you check out the ’50s-era kitsch of the Vedado neigh-
borhood. Essential stops are the Hotel Nacional for a mojito on the alfresco terrace and
Plaza de la Revolución for a look at the Che mural and the Memorial a José Martí. Stick
around in the evening for some excellent nightlife in jazz clubs, lounge bars and cabarets.

One Week
Three more days gives you time to get out to suburban sights such as the Museo
Hemingway, the historic colonial forts on the east side of the harbor and the Aquarium
in Miramar.
 52
Straits of Florida

Architectural Museo de la
Mosaic Museo Nacional Revolución
de Bellas Artes
Havana 

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Havana Highlights
1 Stroll through Havana’s 3 See how tourist money 5 Storm the gates of the
mosaic of art deco, colonial has helped to rehabilitate Museo de la Revolución (p70)
baroque and neoclassical Habana Vieja (p80) 6 Trace the history of
architecture (p84) 4 Rediscover kitsch at the Cuban painting in the
2 Take in the dramatic Tropicana Nightclub (p130) Museo Nacional de
sweep of the Malecón (p78) Bellas Artes (p67)
at sunset
 Cubanacán 53
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in the strangely beautiful
Necrópolis Cristóbal Colón
(p78)
 54
its sugar, rum, tobacco and coffee directly 1 Sights
to any part of the world. The 19th century Habana Vieja
was an era of steady progress: first came the Studded with architectural jewels from ev-
railway in 1837, followed by public gas light- ery era, Habana Vieja offers visitors one of
ing (1848), the telegraph (1851), an urban the finest collections of urban edifices in the
transport system (1862), telephones (1888) Americas. At a conservative estimate, the
and electric lighting (1890). By 1902 the city, Old Town alone contains over 900 buildings
which had been physically untouched by the of historical importance, with myriad exam-
Havana D o wnto wn H avana

devastating wars of independence, boasted a ples of illustrious architecture ranging from

quarter of a million inhabitants. intricate baroque to glitzy art deco.
Havana entered the 20th century on the For a whistle-stop introduction to the
cusp of a new beginning. With the quasi-in- best parts of the neighborhood, check out
dependence of 1902, the city had expanded the suggested walking tour (p80) or stick
rapidly west along the Malecón and into the closely to the four main squares: Plaza de
wooded glades of formerly off-limits Vedado. Armas, Plaza Vieja, Plaza de San Francisco
There was a large influx of rich Americans at de Asís and Plaza de la Catedral.
the start of the Prohibition era, and the good
Plaza de la Catedral & Around
times began to roll with a healthy (or not-so-
healthy) abandon; by the 1950s Havana was Plaza de la Catedral Square

a decadent gambling city frolicking amid (Map p58) Habana Vieja’s most uniform
the all-night parties of American mobsters square is a museum to Cuban baroque with
and scooping fortunes into the pockets of all the surrounding buildings, including the
various disreputable hoods such as Meyer city’s magnificent cathedral, dating from the
Lansky. 1700s. Despite this homogeneity, it is actu-
For Fidel Castro, it was an aberration. On ally the newest of the four squares in the Old
taking power in 1959, the new revolutionary Town, with its present layout dating from
government promptly closed down all the the 18th century.
casinos and then sent Lansky and his syco- Palacio de los Marqueses
phantic henchmen back to Miami. The once- de Aguas Claras notable Building
glittering hotels were divided up to provide (Map p58; San Ignacio No 54) Situated on the
homes for the rural poor. Havana’s long de- western side of Plaza de la Catedral is this
cline had begun. majestic one-time baroque palace completed
Today the city’s restoration is ongoing and in 1760 and widely lauded for the beauty of
a stoic fight against the odds in a country its shady Andalucian patio. Today it houses
where shortages are part of everyday life the Restaurante el Patio (p101).
and money for raw materials is scarce. Since
1982 City Historian Eusebio Leal Spengler Casa de Lombillo notable Building
has been piecing Habana Vieja back togeth- (Map p58; Plaza de la Catedral) Right next door
er street by street and square by square with to the cathedral this palacio was built in 1741
the aid of Unesco and a variety of foreign and once served as a post office (a stone-
investors. Slowly but surely, the old starlet mask ornamental mailbox built into the wall
is starting to reclaim her former greatness. is still in use). Since 2000 it has functioned
as an office for the City Historian, Eusebio
Leal Spengler. Next door is the equally re-
Downtown Havana splendent Palacio del Marqués de Arcos
(Map p58), which dates from the same era.
For simplicity’s sake downtown Havana
can be split into three main areas: Habana Palacio de los Condes de
Vieja, Centro Habana and Vedado, which Casa Bayona Museum

between them contain the bulk of the tour- (Map p58; San Ignacio No 61) The square’s
ist sights. Centrally located Habana Vieja southern aspect is taken up by its oldest
is the city’s atmospheric historical master- building, constructed in 1720. Today it func-
piece; Centro Habana, to the west, provides tions as the Museo de Arte Colonial (Map
an eye-opening look at the real-life Cuba in p58; unguided CUC$2; h9am-6:30pm), a small
close-up; and the more majestic Vedado is museum displaying colonial furniture and
the once-notorious Mafia-run district re- decorative arts. Among the finer exhibits
plete with hotels, restaurants and a pulsat- are pieces of china with scenes of colonial
ing nightlife.
 Havana Street Names 55

Old name New name

Av de los Presidentes Calle G
Av de Maceo Malecón
Av del Puerto Av Carlos Manuel de Céspedes

Havana S ights
downtown
Downtown
Av de Rancho Av de la Independencia Boyeros (Boyeros)
Belascoaín Padre Varela
Cárcel Capdevila
Carlos III (Tercera) Av Salvador Allende
Cristina Av de México

Havana sights
Egido Av de Bélgica
Estrella Enrique Barnet
Galiano Av de Italia

S ights
La Rampa Calle 23
Monserrate Av de las Misiones
Monte Máximo Gómez
Paseo del Prado Paseo de Martí
Paula Leonor Pérez
Reina Av Simón Bolívar
San José San Martín
Someruelos Aponte
Teniente Rey Brasil
Vives Av de España
Zulueta Agramonte

Cuba, a collection of ornamental flowers, Centro Wilfredo Lam Cultural Center

and many colonial-era dining-room sets. (Map p58; cnr San Ignacio & Empedrado; admission
CUC$3; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat) On the corner of
Catedral de San Cristóbal Plaza de Catedral (to the left of the cathe-
de la Habana Church
dral), this cultural center contains a cafe and
(Map p58; cnr San Ignacio & Empedrado; hun- exhibition center named after the island’s
til noon) Dominated by two unequal towers most celebrated painter but which usually
and framed by a theatrical baroque facade displays the works of more modern painters.
designed by Italian architect Francesco
Borromini, Havana’s incredible cathedral Taller Experimental de
was once described by novelist Alejo Car- Gráfica Art Workshop
pentier as ‘music set in stone.’ The Jesuits (Map p58; Callejón del Chorro No 6; admission free;
began construction of the church in 1748 h10am-4pm Mon-Fri) Easy to miss at the end
and work continued despite their expul- of a short cul-de-sac, but ignore it at your
sion in 1767. When the building was finished peril. This is Havana’s most cutting-edge art
in 1787, the diocese of Havana was created workshop, which also offers the possibility
and the church became a cathedral – one of engraving classes (see p83). Come and see
of the oldest in the Americas. The remains the masters at work.
of Columbus were interred here from 1795
Parque Maestranza Playground
to 1898, when they were moved to Seville.
(Map p58; Av Carlos Manuel de Céspedes; admission
The best time to visit is during Sunday Mass
CUC$1; under 4yr only) Small scale but fun kids’
(10:30am).
playground with inflatable castles and other
games overlooking the harbor.
 Plaza de Armas & Around Museo Nacional de
56 Plaza de Armas Square Historia Natural Museum
(Map p58) Havana’s oldest square was laid (Map p58; Obispo No 61; admission CUC$3;
out in the early 1520s, soon after the city’s h9:30am-7:30pm Tue-Sun) An average mu-
foundation, and was originally known as seum that contains examples of Cuba’s flora
Plaza de Iglesia after a church – the Parro- and fauna, and overlooks Plaza de Armas.
quial Mayor – that once stood on the site of
the present-day Palacio de los Capitanes Ge- Museo de la Ciudad Museum
(Map p58; Tacón No 1; admission CUC$3; h9:30am-
Havana D o wnto wn H avana

nerales. The name Plaza de Armas (Square

of Arms) wasn’t adopted until the late 16th 6pm) Filling the whole west side of Plaza de
century, when the colonial governor, then Armas, this museum is housed in the Pala-
housed in the Castillo de la Real Fuerza, cio de los Capitanes Generales (Map p58),
used the site to conduct military exercises. dating from the 1770s. Built on the site of
Today’s plaza, along with most of the build- Havana’s original church, it’s a textbook ex-
ings around it, dates from the late 1700s. ample of Cuban baroque architecture hewn
In the center of the square, which is lined out of rock from the nearby San Lázaro
with royal palms and hosts a daily (except quarries and has served many purposes over
Sundays) secondhand book market, is a the years. From 1791 until 1898 it was the
marble statue of Carlos Manuel de Cés- residence of the Spanish captains general.
pedes (Map p58; 1955), the man who set From 1899 until 1902, the US military gov-
Cuba on the road to independence in 1868. ernors were based here, and during the first
Also of note on the square’s eastern aspect two decades of the 20th century, the build-
is the late-18th-century Palacio de los Con- ing briefly became the presidential palace.
des de Santovenia (Map p58), today the Since 1968 it has been home to the City Mu-
five-star, 27-room Hotel Santa Isabel. seum, one of Havana’s most comprehensive
and interesting. City Museum wraps its way
Museo el Templete Museum regally around a splendid central courtyard
(Map p58; Plaza de Armas; admission CUC$2; adorned with a white marble statue of Chris-
h8:30am-6pm) The tiny neoclassical Doric topher Columbus (1862). Artifacts include
chapel on the east side of Plaza de Armas period furniture, military uniforms and
was erected in 1828 at the point where Ha- old-fashioned 19th-century horse carriages,
vana’s first Mass was held beneath a ceiba while old photos vividly re-create events
tree in November 1519. A similar ceiba tree from Havana’s rollercoaster history, such
has now replaced the original. Inside the as the 1898 sinking of US battleship Maine
chapel are three large paintings of the event in the harbor. It’s better to body-swerve the
by the French painter Jean Baptiste Vermay pushy attendants and wander around at
(1786–1833). your own pace.

A Quartet of Squares
In marked contrast to other Spanish colonial cities, Havana grew up around not one but
four pivotal squares, each bequeathed with its own specific function. Plaza de la Cat-
edral was the city’s religious nexus, Plaza de Armas guarded a fort and a military parade
ground, water-side Plaza San Francisco de Asís was the main shipping dock for passing
Spanish galleons, and Plaza Vieja hosted an important market.
Of the contemporary four, only Plaza de Catedral retains a functioning church. Plaza
de Armas’ church was demolished in the 1770s to make way for the Palacio de los Capi-
tanes Generales, Plaza San Francisco’s church/convent ceased to have a religious func-
tion in the 1840s (it is now a museum and concert hall) and newer Plaza Vieja never had
a church in the first place.
Interconnected by narrow cobbled streets, Habana Vieja’s squares are within easy
strolling distance of each other and all are wonderfully intimate, especially at night.
Restoring them to their colonial glory took the City Historian’s Office many years of
painstaking effort, but the process is now complete. Behind their atmospheric colonial
facades, the revered quartet now harbors atmospheric boutique hotels, clever museums,
open-fronted cafes, a secondhand book market and even a planetarium.
Palacio del Segundo Cabo Landmark museums are free, including the Casa de
(Map p58; O’Reilly No 4; admission CUC$1) Asia (Map p58; Mercaderes No 111; h10am-6pm 57
Wedged into the square’s northwest corner, Tue-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun), with paintings and
this building was constructed in 1772 as the sculpture from China and Japan; the Museo
headquarters of the Spanish vice-governor. del Tabaco (Mercaderes No 120; h10am-5pm
After several reincarnations as a post office, Mon-Sat), where you can gawp at various in-
the palace of the Senate, the Supreme Court, digenous pipes and idols; the Armería 9 de
the National Academy of Arts and Letters, Abril (Map p58; Mercaderes No 157; h10am-6pm

Havana S ights
downtown
Downtown
and the seat of the Cuban Geographical So- Mon-Sat), an old gun shop (now museum)
ciety, the building is today a well-stocked stormed by revolutionaries on the said date
bookstore (p115). Pop-art fans should take in 1958; and the Museo de Bomberos (Map
a look at the palace’s Sala Galería Raúl p58; cnr Mercaderes & Lamparilla; h10am-6pm
Martínez (Map p58; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat). The Mon-Sat), which has antediluvian fire equip-
building was being renovated at time of ment dedicated to 19 Havana firemen who

Havana sights
writing. lost their lives in an 1890 railway fire.
Just off Mercaderes down Obrapía, it’s
Castillo de la Real Fuerza Museum, Fort
worth slinking into the gratis Casa de
(Map p58) On the seaward side of Plaza de África (Map p58; Obrapía No 157; admission free;

S ights 
Armas is the oldest existing fort in the Amer- h9:30am-7:30pm), which houses sacred ob-
icas, built between 1558 and 1577 on the site jects relating to Santería collected by eth-
of an earlier fort destroyed by French priva- nographer Fernando Ortíz.
teers in 1555. The west tower is crowned by a The corner of Mercaderes and Obrapía
copy of a famous bronze weather vane called has an international flavor, with a bronze
La Giraldilla; the original was cast in Ha- statue of Simón Bolívar (Map p58), the
vana in 1632 by Jerónimo Martínez Pinzón Latin America liberator, and across the
and is popularly believed to be of Doña Inés street you’ll find the Museo de Simón
de Bobadilla, the wife of gold explorer Her- Bolívar (Mercaderes No 160; donations accepted;
nando de Soto. The original is now kept in h9am-5pm Tue-Sun) dedicated to Bolívar’s life.
the Museo de la Ciudad, and the figure also The Casa de México Benito Juárez (Map
appears on the Havana Club rum label. Im- p58; Obrapía No 116; admission CUC$1; h10:15am-
posing and indomitable, the castle is ringed 5:45pm Tue-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun) exhibits Mexican
by an impressive moat and today shelters folk art and plenty of books, but not a lot
the Museo de Navegación (Map p58; admis- on Señor Juárez (Mexico’s first indigenous
sion CUC$2; h9am-6pm; c), which opened in
president) himself. Just east is the Casa
2008 and displays interesting exposés on the Oswaldo Guayasamín (Map p58; Obrapía No
history of the fort and Old Town, and its con- 111; donations accepted; h9am-2:30pm Tue-Sun).
nections with the erstwhile Spanish Empire. Now a museum, this was once the studio of
Look out for huge scale model of the Santís- the great Ecuadorian artist who painted Fi-
sima Trinidad galleon. del in numerous poses.
Museo del Automóvil Museum Mercaderes is also characterized by its re-
(Map p58; Oficios No 13; admission CUC$1; h9am- stored shops, including a perfume store and
7pm) Few miss the irony of this vaguely sur- a spice shop. Wander at your will.
real museum stuffed with ancient Thunder- Maqueta de La Habana Vieja Museum
birds, Pontiacs and Ford Model Ts, most of (Map p58; Mercaderes No 114; unguided/guided
which appear to be in better shape than the CUC$1/2; h9am-6pm; c) Herein lies a 1:500
dinosaurs that ply the streets outside. scale model of Habana Vieja complete with
an authentic soundtrack meant to replicate
oCalle Mercaderes Street
a day in the life of the city. It’s incredibly de-
(Map p58) Cobbled, car-free Calle Merca- tailed and provides an excellent way of geo-
deres (literally: Merchant’s Street) has been graphically acquainting yourself with the
extensively restored by the City Historian’s city’s historical core.
Office and is an almost complete replica of
its splendid 18th-century high-water mark. Casa de la Obra Pía notable building
Interspersed with the museums, shops and (Map p58; Obrapía No 158; admission CUC$1; h9am-
restaurants are some real-life working social 4:30pm Tue-Sat, 9:30am-12:30pm Sun) One of the
projects, such as a maternity home and a more muscular sights on Calle Mercaderes
needlecraft cooperative. Most of the myriad is this typical Havana aristocratic residence
 58 Habana Vieja
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A B C D
 e
# 00 200 m originally built in 1665 and rebuilt in 1780.
0.1 miles
Baroque decoration – including an intricate 59
E F
portico made in Cádiz, Spain – covers the exte-
rior facade. In addition to its historical value,
CASABLANCA the house today contains one of the City His-
1 torian’s most commendable social projects: a
sewing and needlecraft cooperative that
has a workshop inside and a small shop sell-

Havana S ights
downtown
Downtown
ing clothes and textiles on Calle Mercaderes.
Plaza de San Francisco de Asís & Around
Plaza de San Francisco
de Asís Square
(Map p58) Facing Havana harbor, the breezy
2

Havana sights
Plaza de San Francisco de Asís first grew up
in the 16th century when Spanish galleons
stopped by at the quayside on their passage
through the Indies to Spain. A market took

S ights 
root in the 1500s, followed by a church in 1608,
though when the pious monks complained of
too much noise the market was moved a few
Terminal Sierra blocks south to Plaza Vieja. The Plaza de San
3
f
# Maestra Francisco underwent a full restoration in the
(CruiseTerminal) late 1990s and is most notable for its uneven
cobblestones and the white marble Fuente
de los Leones (Map p58; Fountain of Lions)
Iglesia y Monasterio de carved by the Italian sculptor Giuseppe Gag-
San Francisco de Asís inni in 1836. A more modern statue outside
the square’s famous church depicts El Cabal-
111 lero de París (Map p58), a well-known street
# Museo
þ 4
person who roamed Havana during the 1950s,
# del Ron
â
engaging passers-by with his philosophies on
93 û
#
life, religion, politics and current events. On
11 Ü
# Ferries to Regla
# & Casablanca
f the eastern side of the plaza stands the Ter-
Muelle minal Sierra Maestra (Map p58) cruise ter-
Luz minal, which dispatches shiploads of weekly
tourists, while nearby the domed Lonja del
Bahía de La Habana Comercio (Map p58) is a former commodi-
5
ties market erected in 1909 and restored in
1996 to provide office space for foreign com-
panies with joint ventures in Cuba.

po
#
34 â Iglesia y Monasterio de
Obis #
â
37 San Francisco de Asís Museum
ÿ
# ü
# 94 (Map p58) The southern side of Plaza San
ú
# 60
Ø
# Francisco de Asís is taken up by an erstwhile
Me

78 27 #
æ #5
â
53
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6 church cum monastery. Originally con-

117 þ
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der

structed in 1608 and rebuilt in the baroque

8â#
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á was taken over by the Spanish state in 1841
San

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Obra as part of a political move against the power-
Ig

#4
â 2â#
nacio

38 â
# ful religious orders of the day, when it ceased
#
â to be a church. Today it’s both a concert hall
77 ú# 32 (hfrom 5pm or 6pm) hosting classical music
ÿ
#
la 57
paril ú
# and the Museo de Arte Religioso (Map p58;
Lam 7
82 unguided/guided CUC$2/3; h9am-6pm) replete
0 100 m
0 0.05 miles with religious paintings, silverware, wood-
carvings and ceramics.
E F
 60 Habana Vieja
æ Top Sights 26 Lonja del Comercio .................................D3
Catedral de San Cristóbal de La 27 Maqueta de La Habana Vieja................. F6
Habana ...................................................C1 28 Museo 28 Septiembre de los
Edificio Bacardí ....................................... A3 CDR ........................................................B3
Iglesia y Monasterio de San 29 Museo Alejandro Humboldt...................D4
Francisco de Asís................................. D4 30 Museo de Arte Colonial ..........................C2
Havana D o wnto wn H avana

Museo de la Ciudad ................................ D2 31 Museo de Arte Religioso.........................D4

Museo de Navegación............................ D2 32 Museo de Bomberos............................... F7
Museo del Ron..........................................E4 33 Museo de la Farmacia Habanera...........B4
34 Museo de la Orfebrería........................... F5
æ Sights 35 Museo de Naipes.....................................D4
1 Aquarivm.................................................. D4 36 Museo de Numismático .........................B3
2 Armería 9 de Abril....................................F7 37 Museo de Pintura Mural ......................... F6
3 Cámara Oscura....................................... D4 38 Museo de Simón Bolívar......................... F7
4 Casa de África ..........................................F7 39 Museo del Automóvil ..............................D2
5 Casa de Asia .............................................F6 Museo del Tabaco ........................ (see 117)
6 Casa de la Obra Pía..................................F6 40 Museo el Templete..................................D2
7 Casa de Lombillo .................................... C2 41 Museo Nacional de Historia
8 Casa de México Benito Juárez...............F6 Natural ...................................................D2
9 Casa Oswaldo Guayasamín................... D3 42 Museo-Casa Natal de José Martí ..........B7
10 Castillo de la Real Fuerza........................D1 43 Palacio Cueto...........................................D4
11 Catedral Ortodoxa Nuestra 44 Palacio de los Capitanes
Señora de Kazán...................................E4 Generales ..............................................D2
12 Centro Cultural Pablo de la Palacio de los Condes de Casa
Torriente Brau...................................... D4 Bayona.........................................(see 30)
13 Centro Wilfredo Lam .............................. C2 Palacio de los Condes de
14 Coche Mambí .......................................... D4 Santovenia ..................................(see 66)
15 Edificio Santo Domingo ......................... C2 Palacio de los Marqueses de
16 El Caballero de Paris .............................. D3 Aguas Claras...............................(see 89)
17 Fototeca de Cuba ................................... D4 45 Palacio del Marqués de Arcos ...............C2
18 Fuente de los Leones ............................. D3 46 Palacio del Segundo Cabo .....................D2
19 Iglesia de San Francisco de 47 Parroquial del Santo Cristo del
Paula...................................................... D6 Buen Viaje..............................................A4
20 Iglesia del Santo Angel 48 Planetario .................................................D4
Custodio................................................. A1 Sala Galería Raúl Martínez...........(see 46)
21 Iglesia Parroquial del Espíritu 49 Statue of Carlos Manuel de
Santo ..................................................... D6 Céspedes...............................................D2
22 Iglesia y Convento de Nuestra 50 Statue of Simón Bolívar.......................... F6
Señora de Belén................................... B5 51 Taller Experimental de Gráfica..............C2
23 Iglesia y Convento de Nuestra
Señora de la Merced ........................... D6 Activities, Courses & Tours
Iglesia y Convento de Santa 52 Gimnasio de Boxeo Rafael Trejo...........D6
Clara .............................................(see 72) 53 Infotur .......................................................E6
24 La Casona Centro de Arte ..................... D4 54 San Cristóbal Agencia de Viajes............D3
25 La Maestranza..........................................C1 Taller Experimental de Gráfica.....(see 51)

FMuseo Alejandro seum displays a historical trajectory of his

Humboldt Museum
work collecting scientific and botanical data
(Map p58; cnr Oficios & Muralla; h9am-5pm Tue- across the island in the early 1800s. Nearby
Sat) Often referred to as the ‘second discov- is the Coche Mambí (Map p58), a train car-
erer’ of Cuba, German scientist, Alejandro riage built in the US in 1900 and brought to
Humboldt’s huge Cuban legacy goes largely Cuba in 1912.
unnoticed by outsiders. This small mu-
 61
ÿ Sleeping 91 Restaurante la Dominica........................C2
55 Casa de Pepe & Rafaela......................... D5 Restaurante la Paella....................(see 59)
56 Hostal Beltrán de la Santa 92 Restaurante Puerto de Sagua ...............B6
Cruz ....................................................... D4
57 Hostal Condes de Villanueva..................F7 û ü Drinking
58 Hostal Palacio O'Farrill............................B1 93 Bar Dos Hermanos..................................E4

Havana S ights
downtown
Downtown
59 Hostal Valencia ....................................... D3 94 Café de las Infusiones.............................F6
60 Hotel Ambos Mundos..............................F6 95 Café el Escorial ....................................... D4
61 Hotel el Comendador ............................. D3 96 Café París .................................................C2
62 Hotel Florida ............................................ C2 97 Café Taberna .......................................... D4
63 Hotel Marqués de Prado 98 El Baturro .................................................B6
Ameno ................................................... C2 99 El Floridita.................................................A3

Havana sights
64 Hotel Raquel ............................................ C3 100 El Reloj Cuervo y Sobrinos.................... D4
65 Hotel San Felipe y Santiago 101 La Bodeguita del Medio..........................C2
de Bejúcal ............................................. D3 102 La Dichosa................................................B3

S ights
66 Hotel Santa Isabel................................... D2 103 La Lluvia de Oro .......................................B3
67 Juan & Margarita .................................... A3 104 Monserrate Bar........................................A4
68 Mesón de la Flota.................................... D3 105 Museo del Chocolate ..............................D3
69 Migdalia Carraballe................................. C5 106 Taberna de la Muralla ............................ D4
70 Noemi Moreno ........................................ D5
71 Pablo Rodríguez...................................... B4 ý Entertainment
72 Residencia Académica Basílica Menor de San Francisco
Convento de Santa Clara.................... C5 de Asís.......................................... (see 31)
107 Fundación Alejo Carpentier ...................C2
ú Eating
73 Agropecuario Sol .................................... C5 þ Shopping
74 Al Medina ................................................. D2 108 Casa de Carmen Montilla.......................D3
75 Café de O'Reilly....................................... C2 109 Centro Cultural Antiguos
76 Café del Oriente ...................................... D3 Almacenes de Depósito
77 Café Lamparilla........................................F7 San José ................................................D7
78 Café Santo Domingo ...............................E6 110 Estudio Galería los Oficios .................... D4
79 Cafetería Torre la Vega.......................... D3 111 Fundación Havana Club Shop ...............E4
El Mecurio ...................................... (see 26) 112 Habana 1791.............................................F6
80 Hanoi ........................................................ A4 Hostal Condes de Villanueva....... (see 57)
81 Harris Brothers ....................................... A3 113 La Casa de Cafe.......................................D2
82 La Imprenta ..............................................F7 Librería Grijalbo Mondadovi.........(see 46)
83 La Julia ..................................................... A3 114 Librería la Internacional..........................A3
84 La Mina..................................................... D2 115 Longina Música........................................B3
85 La Torre de Marfil ....................................F6 116 Moderna Poesía.......................................A3
86 La Zaragozana......................................... A3 117 Museo del Tabaco ................................... F6
Mesón de la Flota.......................... (see 68) 118 Palacio de la Artesanía ........................... B1
87 Paladar la Mulata del Sabor .................. D5 119 Plaza de Armas Secondhand
88 Paladar Moneda Cubana ....................... C2 Book Market .........................................D2
89 Restaurante el Patio............................... C2 120 Taller de Serigrafía René
90 Restaurante el Templete ....................... D2 Portocarrero ........................................ C4

Museo del Ron Museum plex brewing process. A not over-generous

(Map p58; San Pedro No 262; admission incl guide measure of rum is included in the price.
CUC$7; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun) There’s a bar and shop on site, but the savvy
You don’t have to be an Añejo Reserva quaf- reconvene to Bar Dos Hermanos (p107) next
fer to enjoy the Museo del Ron in the Fun- door. The museum sits opposite Havana har-
dación Havana Club, but it probably helps. bour and a block north from Catedral Orto-
The museum, with its bilingual guided tour doxa Nuestra.
shows rum-making antiquities and the com-
 Aquarivm Aquarium Palacio Cueto Landmark
62 (Map p58; Brasil No 9 btwn Mercaderes & Oficios; (Map p58; cnr Muralla & Mercaderes) Kissing
h9am-5:30pm Tue-Sun; c) Indoor freshwater the southeast corner of Plaza Vieja is this
fish in tanks make this small aquarium of distinctive Gaudí-esque building, which re-
interest to children. mains Havana’s finest example of art nou-
Plaza Vieja & Around
veau. Its outrageously ornate facade once
housed a warehouse and a hat factory before
oPlaza Vieja Square it was rented by José Cueto in the 1920s as
Havana D o wnto wn H avana

(Map p58) Laid out in 1559, Plaza Vieja the Palacio Vienna hotel. Habaguanex, the
(Old Square) is Havana’s most architectur- commercial arm of the City Historian’s Of-
ally eclectic square, where Cuban baroque fice, is in the process of restoring the build-
nestles seamlessly next to Gaudí-inspired ing, which was constructed in 1906 and has
art nouveau. Originally called Plaza Nueva lain empty and unused since the early ’90s.
(New Square), it was initially used for mili-
tary exercises and later served as an open- Planetario Planetarium

air marketplace. During the Batista regime (Map p58; Mercaderes; admission CUC$10;
an ugly underground parking lot was con- h9:30am-5pm Wed-Sat, 9:30am-12:30pm Sun;
structed here, but this monstrosity was de- c) One of Havana’s newest sights is this
molished in 1996 to make way for a massive planetarium built with the help of Japanese
renovation project. Sprinkled liberally with investment and opened in December 2009.
bars, restaurants and cafes, Plaza Vieja to- At the time of writing the planetarium was
day boasts its own micro-brewery, the An- only accessible by guided tours booked in
gela Landa primary school and a beautiful advance. Tours must be booked the previous
fenced-in fountain. Monday. Exhibits include a scale reproduc-
tion of the solar system inside a giant orb,
Cámara Oscura landmark a simulation of the Big Bang, and a theater
(Map p58; Plaza Vieja; admission CUC$2; h9am- that allows viewing of over 6000 stars. All
5pm Tue-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun; c) On the north- pretty exciting stuff.
western corner of Plaza Vieja is this clever
optical device providing live, 360-degree FCentro Cultural Pablo
views of the city from atop a 35m-tall tower. de la Torriente Brau Cultural Center
Explanations are in Spanish and English. (Map p58; www.centropablo.cult.cu; Muralla No 63;
h9am-5:30pm Tue-Sat) Tucked away behind
FFototeca de Cuba art Gallery Plaza Vieja, the ‘Brau’ is a leading cultural
(Map p58; Mercaderes No 307; h10am-5pm Tue-Fri, institution that was formed under the aus-
9am-noon Sat) A photo gallery with intriguing pices of the Unión de Escritores y Artistas
exhibits by local and international artists de Cuba (Uneac; Union of Cuban Writers
that also serves a more important function and Artists) in 1996. The center hosts ex-
as the main photo archive for the City His- positions, poetry readings and live acoustic
torian’s Office. music. Its Salón de Arte Digital is renowned
for its groundbreaking digital art.
FMuseo de Naipes Museum
Calle Obispo & Around
(Map p58; Muralla No 101; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun)
Calle Obispo Street
Encased in Plaza Vieja’s oldest building is
(Map p58) Narrow, car-free Calle Obispo
this quirky playing-card museum with a
(literally: Bishop’s Street), Habana Vieja’s
2000-strong collection that includes rock
main interconnecting artery, is packed with
stars, rum drinks and round cards.
art galleries, shops, music bars and people.
Four- and five-story buildings block out
FLa Casona Centro most of the sunlight, and the swaying throng
de Arte Art Gallery
of people seem to move in time to the all-
(Map p58; Muralla No 107; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri,
pervading live music.
10am-2pm Sat) Housed in one of Plaza Vieja’s
most striking buildings (note the sturdy co- Museo de Numismático Museum
lonial overtones), this gallery/shop has great (Map p58; Obispo btwn Aguiar & Habana; admis-
solo and group shows by up-and-coming Cu- sion CUC$1; h9am-4:45pm) This numismatist’s
ban artists. heaven brings together various collections of
medals, coins and banknotes from around
the world, including a stash of 1000 mainly
American gold coins (1869–1928) and a full hermitage on this site since 1640. Still only
chronology of Cuban banknotes from the partially renovated, the building is most no- 63
19th century to the present. table for its intricate stained-glass windows
and brightly painted wooden ceiling. The
Museo 28 Septiembre de Plaza del Cristo also hosts a primary school
los CDR Museum
(hence the noise) and a microcosmic slice of
(Map p58; Obispo btwn Aguiar & Habana; admission everyday Cuban life without tourists.
CUC$2; h9am-5pm) A venerable building on
Obispo that dedicates two floors to a rather
FMuseo de la Farmacia

Havana S ights
downtown
Downtown
biased dissection of the nationwide Comi-
Habanera Museum
tes de la Defensa de la Revolución (CDR;
(Map p58; cnr Brasil & Compostela; h9am-5pm)
Committees for the Defense of the Revolu-
A few blocks up Calle Brasil from Plaza del
tion). Commendable neighborhood-watch
Cristo, this museum-store founded in 1886
schemes, or grassroots spying agencies? Sift
by Catalan José Sarrá still acts as a working

Havana sights
through the propaganda and decide.
pharmacy for Cubans. The small museum
section displays an elegant mock-up of an
FMuseo de Pintura Mural Museum
old drugstore with some interesting histori-
(Map p58; Obispo btwn Mercaderes & Oficios; cal explanations.

S ights 
h10am-6pm) A simple museum that exhibits
some beautifully restored original frescoes Southern Habana Vieja
in the Casa del Mayorazgo de Recio, popu- Iglesia y Convento de
larly considered to be Havana’s oldest sur- Santa Clara Convent
viving house. (Map p58; Cuba No 610; admission CUC$2; h9am-
4pm Mon-Fri) South of Plaza Vieja is Havana’s
Museo de la Orfebrería Museum largest and oldest convent built between
(Map p58; Obispo No 113; admission by donation; 1638 and 1643, though since 1920 it has
h9am-4:30pm Tue-Sat, 9:30am-12:30pm Mon) A served no religious purpose. For a while it
silverware museum set out in the house of housed the Ministry of Public Works, and
erstwhile silversmith Gregorio Tabares, who today part of the Habana Vieja restoration
had a workshop here from 1707. team is based here. You can visit the large
Edificio Santo Domingo Museum, art Gallery cloister and nuns’ cemetery or even spend
(Map p58; Mercaderes btwn Obispo & O’Reilly) the night in cheap monastic digs (see p86).
Across Obispo from the Hotel Ambos Mun- Iglesia y Convento de
dos is the site of Havana’s original university, Nuestra Señora de Belén convent
which stood here between 1728 and 1902. It (Map p58; Compostela btwn Luz & Acosta; admis-
was originally part of a convent; the con- sion CUC$2; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun)
temporary modern office block was built This one-time convent completed in 1718 and
by Habaguanex in 2006 over the skeleton run by nuns from the Order of Bethlehem
of an uglier 1950s office, the roof of which and (later) the Jesuits is now a convalescent
was used as a helicopter landing pad. It has home for senior citizens funded by the City
been ingeniously refitted with the convent’s Historian’s Office. It is one of the city’s most
original bell tower and baroque doorway – successful social projects and living proof of
an interesting juxtaposition of old and new. how tourist money and foresighted govern-
Many of the university’s arts faculties have ment planning can benefit local people.
now moved back here, and a small museum/
art gallery displays a scale model of the orig- Iglesia y Convento de Nuestra
inal convent and various artifacts that were Señora de la Merced Church
rescued from it. (Map p58; Cuba No 806; h8am-noon & 3-5:30pm)
Built in 1755, this hemmed-in church was
Plaza del Cristo & Around Square reconstructed in the 19th century. Beautiful
(Map p58) Habana Vieja’s fifth (and most gilded altars, frescoed vaults and a number
overlooked) square lies at the west end of of old paintings create a sacrosanct mood;
the neighborhood, a little apart from the his- there’s a quiet cloister adjacent. Two blocks
torical core, and has yet to benefit from the away is the rather neglected Iglesia Parro-
City Historian’s makeover. It’s worth a look quial del Espíritu Santo (Map p58; Acosta 161;
for the Parroquial del Santo Cristo del h8am-noon & 3-6pm), Havana’s oldest surviv-
Buen Viaje (Map p58), a church dating from ing church, built in 1640 and rebuilt in 1674.
1732, although there has been a Franciscan
 Iglesia de San Francisco Avenida de las Misiones
64 de Paula Church Edificio Bacardí Landmark
(Map p58; cnr Leonor Pérez & Desamparados) One (Map p58; Bacardí building; Av de las Misiones btwn
of Havana’s most attractive churches, this Empedrado & San Juan de Dios; hhours vary) Fin-
building was fully restored in 2000. It is all ished in 1929, the magnificent Edificio Ba-
that remains of the San Francisco de Paula cardí is a triumph of art deco architecture
women’s hospital from the mid-1700s. Lit up with a whole host of lavish finishings that
at night for concerts, the stained glass, heavy somehow manage to make kitschy look cool.
Havana D o wnto wn H avana

cupola and baroque facade are romantic and Hemmed in by other buildings, it’s hard to
inviting. get a full kaleidoscopic view of the structure
from street level, though the opulent bell
Catedral Ortodoxa Nuestra tower can be glimpsed from all over Havana.
Señora de Kazán Church
There’s a bar in the lobby, and for CUC$1 you
(Map p58; Av Carlos Manuel de Céspedes btwn can travel up to the tower for an eagle’s-eye
Sol & Santa Clara) One of Havana’s newest view.
buildings, this beautiful gold-domed Rus-
sian Orthodox church was built in the early Iglesia del Santo Angel Custodio Church
2000s and consecrated at a ceremony at- (Map p58; Compostela No 2; hduring Mass 7:15am
tended by Raúl Castro in October 2008. Tue, Wed & Fri, 6pm Thu, Sat & Sun) Originally con-
The church was part of an attempt to re- structed in 1695, this church was pounded
ignite Russian-Cuban relations after they by a ferocious hurricane in 1846, after which
went sour in 1991. it was entirely rebuilt in neo-Gothic style.
Among the notable historical and literary fig-
Museo-Casa Natal de José Martí Museum ures that have passed through its handsome
(Map p58; Leonor Pérez No 314; admission CUC$1, doors are 19th-century Cuban novelist Cirilo
camera CUC$2; h9am-5pm Tue-Sat) The Museo- Villaverde, who set the main scene of his nov-
Casa Natal de José Martí is a humble, two- el Cecilia Valdés here, and Félix Varela and
story dwelling on the edge of Habana Vieja, José Martí, who were baptized in the church
where the apostle of Cuban independence in 1788 and 1853 respectively.
was born on January 28, 1853. Today it’s a
small museum that displays letters, manu- Parque Histórico Militar
scripts, photos, books and other mementos Morro-Cabaña
of his life. While not as comprehensive as the The sweeping views of Havana from the oth-
Martí museum on Plaza de la Revolución, er side of the bay are spectacular, and a trip
it’s a charming little abode and well worth to the two old forts of the Parque Histórico
a small detour. Militar Morro-Cabaña is a must. Despite
their location on the opposite side of the har-
Old City Wall historical site bor, both forts are included in the Habana
In the 17th century, anxious to defend the Vieja Unesco World Heritage Site. Sunset is
city from attacks by pirates and overzeal- a good time to visit when you can stay over
ous foreign armies, Cuba’s paranoid co- for the emblematic cañonazo ceremony.
lonial authorities drew up plans for the To get to the forts, use the P-15, P-8 or
construction of a 5km-long city wall. Built P-11 metro buses (get off at the first stop
between 1674 and 1740, the wall on comple- after the tunnel), but make sure you’re
tion was 1.5m thick and 10m high, running near an exit as very few other people get
along a line now occupied by Av de las Mis- out there. Otherwise, a metered tourist
iones and Av de Bélgica. Among the wall’s taxi from Habana Vieja should cost around
myriad defenses were nine bastions and CUC$4. Another alternative is via the Casa-
180 big guns aimed toward the sea. The blanca ferry, which departs from Av Carlos
only way in and out of the city was through Manuel de Céspedes in Habana Vieja. From
11 heavily guarded gates that closed every the Casablanca landing follow the road up
night and opened every morning to the to the huge Christ statue (Estatua de Cris-
sound of a solitary gunshot. The walls were to), where you bear left and traverse anoth-
demolished starting in 1863, but a few seg- er road across some military training fields.
ments remain, the largest of which stands The entrance to La Cabaña is on your left.
on Av de Bélgica close to the train station
(Map p58).
Parque Histórico Militar Morro-Cabaña e

e 0
# 0
200 m
0.1 miles 65
A ‚ B C D
To Playas del Este (13km)
al
Straits of nt
Florida

e
m
1 æ
# 1

nu
3

Mo
11

V ía
8 â
# #
ú

Havana S ights
downtown
Downtown
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LA HABANA
VIEJA To Casablanca (1km) ‚
A B C D

Parque Histórico Militar Morro-Cabaña

æ Top Sights 8 Maritime Museum.................................. A1
Museo de Comandancia del 9 Museo de Fortificaciones y
Che....................................................... C3 Armas...................................................C2
10 Observatorio Nacional...........................D3
æ Sights
1 Batería de la Divina Pastora ................. B2 ú Eating
2 Batería de los Doce 11 Paladar Doña Carmela........................... C1
Apóstoles ............................................ A2 12 Restaurante la Divina Pastora...............B2
3 Batería de Velasco.................................. A1 13 Restaurante los Doce Apóstoles...........A2
4 Cañonazo Ceremony ............................ C3
5 Entrance ................................................. B2 û Drinking
6 Entrance ..................................................A1 14 Bar el Polvorín ........................................ A1
7 Estatua de Cristo ................................... D3

Castillo de los Tres Santos in 1762, after a 44-day siege, a 14,000-strong

Reyes Magnos del Morro Fort, Museum British force captured El Morro by attacking
(Map p65; El Morro; admission CUC$6) This impos- from the landward side. The Castillo’s fa-
ing fort was erected between 1589 and 1630 mous lighthouse was added in 1844.
to protect the entrance to Havana harbor Aside from the fantastic views over the
from pirates and foreign invaders (French sea and the city, El Morro also hosts a mari-
corsair Jacques de Sores had sacked the city time museum (Map p65). To climb to the
in 1555). Perched high on a rocky bluff above top of the lighthouse is an additional CUC$2.
the Atlantic, the fort’s irregular polygonal
shape, 3m-thick walls and deep protective oFortaleza de San Carlos
moat offer a classic example of Renaissance de la Cabaña Fort, Museum
military architecture. For more than a cen- (Map p65; admission day/night CUC$6/8, h8am-
tury the fort withstood numerous attacks by 11pm; c) This 18th-century colossus was
French, Dutch and English privateers, but built between 1763 and 1774 on a long,
 exposed ridge on the east side of Havana Sciences and the National Library of Science
66 harbor to fill a weakness in the city’s de- and Technology.
fenses. In 1762 the British had taken Ha- Constructed with white Capellanía lime-
vana by gaining control of this strategi- stone and block granite, the entrance is
cally important ridge, and it was from here guarded by six rounded Doric columns atop
that they shelled the city mercilessly into a staircase that leads up from the Prado.
submission. In order to prevent a repeat Looking out over the Havana skyline is a
performance, the Spanish King Carlos III 62m stone cupola topped with a replica of
Havana D o wnto wn H avana

ordered the construction of a massive fort 16th-century Florentine sculptor Giambolo-

that would repel future invaders. Measur- gna’s bronze statue of Mercury in the Palaz-
ing 700m from end to end and covering zo de Bargello. Set in the floor directly below
a whopping 10 hectares, it is the largest the dome is a copy of a 24-carat diamond.
Spanish colonial fortress in the Americas. Highway distances between Havana and all
The impregnability of the fort meant that sites in Cuba are calculated from this point.
no invader ever attacked it, though during The entryway opens up into the Salón
the 19th century Cuban patriots faced firing de los Pasos Perdidos (Room of the Lost
squads here. Dictators Machado and Batista Steps, so named because of its unusual
used the fortress as a military prison, and acoustics), at the center of which is the stat-
immediately after the Revolution Che Gue- ue of the republic, an enormous bronze
vara set up his headquarters inside the ram- woman standing 11m tall and symbolizing
parts to preside over another catalog of gris- the mythic Guardian of Virtue and Work. In
ly executions (this time of Batista’s officers). size, it’s smaller than only the gold Buddha
These days the fort has been restored for in Nara, Japan, and the Lincoln Monument
visitors, and you can spend at least half a in Washington, DC.
day checking out its wealth of attractions. The Capitolio was closed for renovations
As well as bars, restaurants, souvenir stalls at the time of writing, so admission prices
and a cigar shop (containing the world’s may change.
longest cigar), La Cabaña hosts the Museo
de Fortificaciones y Armas and the en- Real Fábrica de Tabacos
grossing Museo de Comandancia del Che. Partagás cigar Factory

The nightly 9pm cañonazo ceremony is a (Map p68; Industria No 520 btwn Barcelona & Drag-
popular evening excursion in which actors ones; tours CUC$10; hevery 15min 9-10:15am &
dressed in full 18th-century military rega- noon-1:30pm) One of Havana’s oldest and most
lia reenact the firing of a cannon over the famous cigar factories, the landmark neo-
harbor. Until the demolition of Havana’s city classical Real Fábrica de Tabacos Partagás
walls in the 1850s, the cannon shot was used was founded in 1845 by a Spaniard named
to signal that the gates were about to close. Jaime Partagás. Today some 400 workers toil
You can visit the ceremony independently or for up to 12 hours a day in here rolling such
as part of an organized excursion (p83). famous cigars as Montecristos and Cohibas.
As far as tours go, Partagás is the most popu-
Centro Habana lar and reliable factory to visit. Tour groups
Capitolio Nacional Landmark check out the ground floor first, where the
(Map p68; unguided/guided CUC$3/4; h9am- leaves are unbundled and sorted, before
8pm) The incomparable Capitolio Nacional proceeding to the upper floors to watch the
is Havana’s most ambitious and grandiose tobacco get rolled, pressed, adorned with a
building, constructed after the ‘Dance of the band and boxed. Though interesting in an
Millions’ had gifted the Cuban government a educational sense, the tours here are often
seemingly bottomless treasure box of sugar rushed and a little robotic, and some visitors
money. Similar to the US Capitol Building in find they smack of a human zoo. Still, if you
Washington, DC, but (marginally) taller and have even a passing interest in tobacco and/
much richer in detail, the work was initi- or Cuban work environments, it’s probably
ated by Cuba’s US-backed dictator Gerardo worth a peep.
Machado in 1926 and took 5000 workers
Parque de la Fraternidad Park
three years, two months and 20 days to build
at a cost of US$17 million. Formerly it was Leafy Parque de la Fraternidad (Map p68)
the seat of the Cuban Congress, but since was established in 1892 to commemorate
1959 it has housed the Cuban Academy of the fourth centenary of the Spanish land-
ing in the Americas. A few decades later it
was remodeled and renamed to mark the in the long run, by symbiosis, by amalgama-
1927 Pan-American Conference. The name tion, becomes baroquism.’ So wrote Cuban 67
is meant to signify American brotherhood, novelist and sometime architectural dabbler,
hence the many busts of Latin and North Alejo Carpentier, of the ornate neobaroque
American leaders that embellish the green Centro Gallego erected as a Galician so-
areas – including one of US president, Abra- cial club between 1907 and 1914. The Centro
ham Lincoln. Today the park is the terminus was built around the existing Teatro Tacón,
of numerous metro bus routes, and is some- which opened in 1838 with five masked Car-

Havana S ights
downtown
Downtown
times referred to as ‘Jurassic Park’ because naval dances. This connection is the basis of
of the plethora of photogenic old American claims by the present 2000-seat theater that
cars now used as colectivos (collective taxis) it’s the oldest operating theater in the West-
that congregate here. ern hemisphere. History notwithstanding,
The Fuente de la India (Map p68; on a the architecture is brilliant, as are many of
traffic island opposite the Hotel Saratoga) is the weekend performances (see p108).

Havana sights
a white Carrara marble fountain, carved by
Giuseppe Gaginni in 1837 for the Count of Hotel Inglaterra notable building

Villanueva. It portrays a regal Indian wom- (Map p68; Paseo de Martí No 416) Havana’s old-
an adorned with a crown of eagle’s feath- est hotel first opened its doors in 1856 on the

S ights 
ers and seated on a throne surrounded by site of a popular bar called El Louvre (the
four gargoyle-like dolphins. In one hand she hotel’s alfresco bar still bears the name).
holds a horn-shaped basket filled with fruit, Facing leafy Parque Central, the building
in the other a shield bearing the city’s coat exhibits the neoclassical design features in
of arms. vogue at the time, although the interior de-
cor is distinctly Moorish. At a banquet here
Asociación Cultural in 1879, José Martí made a speech advocat-
Yoruba de Cuba museum ing Cuban independence, and much later
(Map p68; Paseo de Martí No 615; admission US journalists covering the Spanish-Cuban-
CUC$10; h9am-4pm Mon-Sat) A museum American War stayed at the hotel.
that provides a worthwhile overview of Just behind lies Calle San Rafael, a riot
the Santería religion, the saints and their of peso stalls, 1950s department stores and
powers, although some travelers have com- local cinemas, which gives an immediate in-
plained that the exhibits don’t justify the sight into everyday life in economically chal-
price. There are tambores (Santería drum lenged Cuba.
ceremonies) on alternate Fridays at 4:30pm.
Note that there’s a church dress code for the oMuseo Nacional de
tambores (no shorts or tank tops). Bellas Artes Museum
Cuba has a huge art culture and its dual-site
Parque Central & Around Park
art museum rivals its counterpart in San
Diminutive Parque Central (Map p68) is a
Juan, Puerto Rico, for the title of ‘best art
scenic haven from the belching buses and
museum in the Caribbean.’ You can spend
roaring taxis that ply their way along the
a whole day here viewing everything from
Prado. The park, long a microcosm of daily
Greek ceramics to Cuban pop art.
Havana life, was expanded to its present size
Arranged inside the fabulously eclectic
in the late 19th century after the city walls
Centro Asturianas (a work of art in its own
were knocked down. The marble statue of
right), the Colección de Arte Universal
José Martí (Map p68; 1905) at its center
(Map p68; cnr Agramonte & San Rafael; admission
was the first of thousands to be erected in
CUC$5, under 14yr free; h10am-6pm Tue-Sat,
Cuba. Raised on the 10th anniversary of the
10am-2pm Sun) exhibits international art
poet’s death, the monument is ringed by 28
from 500 BC to the present day on three
palm trees planted to signify Martí’s birth
separate floors. Highlights include an exten-
date: January 28. Hard to miss over to one
sive Spanish collection (with a canvas by El
side is the group of baseball fans who linger
Greco), some 2000-year-old Roman mosaics,
24/7 at the famous Esquina Caliente, dis-
Greek pots from the 5th century BC and a
cussing form, tactics and the Havana teams’
suitably refined Gainsborough canvas (in
prospects in the play-offs.
the British room).
Gran Teatro de la Habana Theater Two blocks away, the Colección de Arte
(Map p68; Paseo de Martí No 458; guided tours Cubano (Map p68; Trocadero btwn Agramonte &
CUC$2; h9am-6pm) ‘A style without style that Av de las Misiones; admission CUC$5, under 14yr
 68 Centro Habana e
# 0
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A B C D
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Militar Morro-Cabaña
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A B C a D
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Centro Habana 69
æ Top Sights 24 Hotel Park View ......................................D3
Museo de la Revolución ........................ D3 25 Hotel Saratoga .......................................C6
Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes 26 Hotel Sevilla............................................C4
(Colección de Arte Cubano) .............. D4 27 Hotel Telégrafo.......................................C5
Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes 28 Julio & Elsa Roque..................................C3
(Colección de Arte 29 Niurka O Rey...........................................B4

Havana S ights
downtown
Downtown
Universal) ............................................ D5
Real Fábrica de Tabacos Partagás....... C6 ú Eating
30 Almacenes Ultra.....................................A7
æ Sights 31 Café Neruda............................................A3
1 Asociación Canaria de Cuba ................ D4 32 Chi Tack Tong.........................................A6

Havana sights
2 Asociación Cultural Yoruba de 33 El Gran Dragón .......................................A6
Cuba .................................................... C6 34 La Época .................................................A5
3 Cárcel ..................................................... D2 35 Los Gijones .............................................C4
4 Castillo de San Salvador de la 36 Los Nardos .............................................C6

S ights 
Punta ....................................................D1 37 Mercado Agropecuario Egido ...............D7
Centro Gallego..............................(see 50) 38 Paladar Doña Blanquita.........................C3
5 Escuela Nacional de Ballet.................... C3 39 Paladar Torressón..................................C2
6 Fuente de la India .................................. C6 40 Pastelería Francesa ...............................C5
Gran Teatro de La Habana...........(see 50) 41 Rancho Coquito......................................B2
Hotel Inglaterra.............................(see 20) 42 Restaurante Tien-Tan............................A6
7 Memorial a los Estudiantes de 43 Supermercado Isla de Cuba..................C7
Medicina .............................................. D2
8 Museo Lezama Lima ............................. C3 û Drinking
9 Palacio de los Matrimonios................... C4 44 Prado & Ánimas .....................................C4
10 Palacio Velasco...................................... D2 45 Prado No 12 ............................................C2
11 Pavillón Granma .................................... D3
12 Statue of General Máximo ý Entertainment
Gómez ................................................. D2 46 Cabaret Nacional ...................................C5
13 Statue of José Martí .............................. C5 47 Cine Actualidades ..................................D4
Teatro Fausto ...............................(see 54) 48 Cine Payret .............................................C5
49 Cinecito ...................................................C5
Activities, Courses & Tours 50 Gran Teatro de La Habana ....................C5
14 Centro Andaluz...................................... C4 51 Kid Chocolate .........................................C5
15 Centro Hispano Americano de 52 La Casa de la Música Centro
Cultura................................................. C2 Habana.................................................B5
Teatro América.............................(see 53) 53 Teatro América ......................................B4
54 Teatro Fausto .........................................C3
ÿ Sleeping
16 Dulce Hostal - Dulce María þ Shopping
González.............................................. B5 55 Area de Vendedores por
17 Esther Cardoso...................................... B5 Cuenta Propia......................................C7
18 Hotel Caribbean..................................... C3 56 El Bulevar ................................................B5
19 Hotel Deauville....................................... B3 57 Galería la Acacia.....................................C5
20 Hotel Inglaterra...................................... C5 58 La Manzana de Gómez ..........................C5
21 Hotel Lido ............................................... C4 59 Librería Luis Rogelio Nogueras.............B6
22 Hotel Lincoln .......................................... A4 Real Fábrica de Tabacos
23 Hotel NH Parque Central ...................... C4 Partagás......................................(see 12)
 free; h10am-6pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun) dis- of Captain General Miguel Tacón (1834–38).
70 plays purely Cuban art and, if you’re pressed The original idea was to create a boulevard
for time, is the better of the duo. Works are as splendid as any found in Paris or Barce-
displayed in chronological order starting on lona (Prado owes more than a passing nod to
the 3rd floor and are surprisingly varied. Las Ramblas). The famous bronze lions that
Artists to look out for are Guillermo Collazo, guard the central promenade at either end
considered to be the first truly great Cuban were added in 1928.
artist; Rafael Blanco with his cartoon-like Notable Prado buildings include the neo-
Havana D o wnto wn H avana

paintings and sketches; Raúl Martínez, Renaissance Palacio de los Matrimonios

a master of 1960s Cuban pop art; and the (Map p68; Paseo de Martí No 302), the stream-
Picasso-like Wilfredo Lam. line-modern Teatro Fausto (Map p68; cnr
Paseo de Martí & Colón) and the neoclassical
Museo de la Revolución Museum
Escuela Nacional de Ballet (Map p68; cnr
(Map p68; Refugio No 1; unguided/guided CUC$4/6, Paseo de Martí & Trocadero), Alicia Alonso’s fa-
camera extra; h10am-5pm) The Museo de la mous ballet school.
Revolución is housed in the former Presiden-
tial Palace, constructed between 1913 and Statue of General Máximo
1920 and used by a string of cash-embezzling Gómez Monument
Cuban presidents, culminating in Fulgencio (Map p68; Malecón cnr Paseo de Martí) On a large
Batista. The world-famous Tiffany’s of New traffic island overlooking the mouth of the
York decorated the interior, and the shim- harbor is a rather grand statue on the right-
mering Salón de los Espejos (Room of Mir- hand side. Gómez was a war hero from the
rors) was designed to resemble the room of Dominican Republic who fought tirelessly
the same name at the Palace of Versailles. In for Cuban independence in both the 1868
March 1957 the palace was the target of an and 1895 conflicts against the Spanish. The
unsuccessful assassination attempt against impressive statue of him sitting atop a horse
Batista led by revolutionary student leader was created by Italian artist Aldo Gamba in
José Antonio Echeverría. The museum itself 1935 and faces heroically out to sea.
descends chronologically from the top floor
starting with Cuba’s pre-Columbian culture Museo Lezama Lima Museum

and extending to the present-day socialist re- (Map p68; Trocadero No 162 cnr Industria; unguid-
gime (with mucho propaganda). The down- ed/guided CUC$1/2; h9am-5pm Tue-Sat, 9am-
stairs rooms have some interesting exhibits 1pm Sun) A new museum in the old house of
on the 1953 Moncada attack (see p394) and the late Cuban man of letters, José Lezama
the life of Che Guevara, and highlight a Cu- Lima, this place is an obligatory pit-stop for
ban penchant for displaying blood-stained anyone attempting to understand Cuban lit-
military uniforms. Most of the labels are in erature beyond Hemingway. Lima’s magnus
English and Spanish. In front of the building opus was the rambling classic, Paradiso,
is a fragment of the former city wall, as well and he wrote most of it here.
as an SAU-100 tank used by Castro during Parque de los Enamorados Park
the 1961 battle of the Bay of Pigs. Preserved in Parque de los Enamorados (Map
In the space behind you’ll find the Pavillón p68; Lovers’ Park), surrounded by streams of
Granma, a memorial to the 18m yacht that speeding traffic, lies a surviving section of the
carried Fidel Castro and 81 other revolutionar- colonial Cárcel (Map p68) or Tacón Prison,
ies from Tuxpán, Mexico, to Cuba in Decem- built in 1838, where many Cuban patriots in-
ber 1956. It’s encased in glass and guarded 24 cluding José Martí were imprisoned. A brutal
hours a day, presumably to stop anyone from place that sent unfortunate prisoners off to
breaking in and making off for Florida in it. perform hard labor in the nearby San Lázaro
The pavilion is surrounded by other vehicles quarry, the prison was finally demolished in
associated with the Revolution and is acces- 1939 with the park that took its place dedicat-
sible from the Museo de la Revolución. ed to the memory of those who had suffered
Prado (Paseo de Martí) street
so horribly within its walls. Two tiny cells and
Construction of this stately European-style an equally minute chapel are all that remain.
boulevard (Map p68; officially known as Pas- The beautiful wedding cake-like building (art
eo de Martí) – the first street outside the old nouveau with a dash of eclecticism) behind
city walls – began in 1770, and the work was the park, flying the Spanish flag, is the old
completed in the mid-1830s during the term Palacio Velasco (Map p68; 1912), now the
Spanish embassy.
 Beyond that is the Memorial a los Es- this formerly protected forest reserve in the
tudiantes de Medicina (Map p68), a frag- 1860s, with the real growth spurt beginning 71
ment of wall encased in marble marking the in the 1920s and continuing until the 1950s.
spot where eight Cuban medical students Laid out in a near-perfect grid, Vedado
were shot by the Spanish in 1871 as a repri- has more of a North American feel than oth-
sal for allegedly desecrating the tomb of a er parts of the Cuban capital, and its small
Spanish journalist (in fact, they didn’t do it). clutch of rascacielos (skyscrapers) – which
draw their inspiration from the art-deco gi-
Castillo de San Salvador

Havana S ights
downtown
Downtown
ants of Miami and New York – are largely a
de la Punta Fort, Museum
product of Cuba’s 50-year dance with the US.
One in a quartet of forts defending Havana During the 1940s and ’50s, Vedado was
harbor, La Punta (Map p68) was designed by a louche and tawdry place where Havana’s
the Italian military engineer Giovanni Bau- pre-revolutionary gambling party reached
tista Antonelli and built between 1589 and its heady climax. The Hotel Nacional once

Havana sights
1600. During the colonial era a chain was boasted a Las Vegas-style casino, the ritzy
stretched 250m to the castle of El Morro ev- Hotel Riviera was the former stomping
ery night to close the harbor mouth to ship- ground of influential mobster Meyer Lan-
ping. The castle’s museum (admission CUC$6; sky, while the now empty Hotel Capri was

S ights 
h10am-6pm Wed-Sun) displays artifacts from
masterfully managed by Hollywood actor
sunken Spanish treasure fleets, a collection (and sometime mob associate) George Raft.
of model ships and information on the slave Everything changed in January 1959 when
trade. Fidel Castro rolled into town with his army
El Barrio Chino neighborhood of scruffy bearded rebels in tow and set up
Havana’s Chinatown (Map p68) – or Barrio shop on the 24th floor of the spanking new
Chino, as it’s more popularly known – is no- Havana Hilton hotel (promptly renamed
table today for its almost complete lack of Hotel Habana Libre).
Chinese people. But it wasn’t always so. The Today, Vedado has a population of ap-
first Chinese arrived as contract laborers on proximately 175,000, and its leafy residen-
the island in the late 1840s to fill in the gaps tial pockets are interspersed with myriad
left by the decline of the trans-Atlantic slave theaters, nightspots, paladares and restau-
trade. By the 1920s Havana’s Chinatown had rants. Bisected by two wide Parisian-style
burgeoned into the biggest Asian neighbor- boulevards, Calle G and Paseo, its geometric
hood in Latin America, a booming, bustling grid is embellished by a liberal sprinkling of
hub of human industry that spawned its pleasant parks and the gargantuan Plaza de
own laundries, pharmacies, theaters and la Revolución laid out during the Batista era
grocery stores. The slide began in the early in the 1950s.
1960s when thousands of business-minded Iglesia del Sagrado Corazón
Chinese relocated to the United States. Rec- de Jesús Church
ognizing the tourist potential of the area in (Map p72; Av Simón Bolivar btwn Gervasio & Padre
the 1990s, the Cuban government invested Varela) A little out on a limb but well worth
money and resources into rejuvenating the the walk is this inspiring marble creation
district’s distinct historical character with with a distinctive white steeple, where you
bilingual street signs, a large pagoda-shaped can enjoy a few precious minutes of quiet
arch at the entrance to Calle Dragones, and and cool contemplation away from the crazi-
incentives given to local Chinese business- ness of the street. This church is rightly fa-
men to promote restaurants. Today most mous for its magnificent stained-glass win-
of the action centers on the narrow Calle dows, and the light that penetrates through
Cuchillo and its surrounding streets. Head the eaves first thing in the morning (when
here for cheap restaurants, plentiful food the church is deserted) gives the place an
and an interesting slice of Cuban life with ethereal quality.
an Asian twist.
Vedado oHotel Nacional notable building

Vedado (known officially as the municipal- (Map p72; cnr Calles O & 21) Built in 1930 as a
ity of ‘Plaza de la Revolution’) is Havana’s copy of the Breakers Hotel in Palm Beach,
commercial hub and archetypal residential Florida, the eclectic art-deco/neoclassical
district, older than Playa but newer than Hotel Nacional is a national monument and
Centro Habana. The first houses penetrated one of Havana’s ‘postcard’ sights.
 72 Vedado
A B C D

23
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 74 Vedado
æ Top Sights Museo de Artes Decorativas........ (see 17)
Memorial José Martí.............................. D6 25 Paradiso..................................................C3
Museo Napoleónico................................E3 Teatro Nacional de Cuba............ (see 101)
Universidad de La Habana.....................E3 26 Uneac ......................................................D2
27 Universidad de La Habana .................... E3
æ Sights
Havana D o wnto wn H avana

1 Airline Building........................................E2 ÿ Sleeping

2 Biblioteca Nacional José Martí..............E6 Basilia Pérez Castro..................... (see 48)
3 Casa de las Américas.............................B1 28 Casa 1932 ...............................................H2
4 Comité Central del Partido Casa Particular Sandélis ............. (see 43)
Comunista de Cuba............................ D7 29 Eddy Gutiérrez Bouza............................C3
5 Edificio Focsa......................................... D2 30 Guillermina & Roberto Abreu................A3
6 Edificio López Serrano...........................D1 31 Hotel Bruzón........................................... E5
7 Gran Synagoga Bet Shalom ................. D2 32 Hotel Colina ............................................ E3
8 Hotel Capri ..............................................E2 33 Hotel Habana Libre ................................E2
Hotel Habana Libre.......................(see 33) 34 Hotel Meliá Cohiba .................................A2
Hotel Nacional ..............................(see 35) 35 Hotel Nacional .........................................E1
9 Iglesia de Sagrado Corazón de 36 Hotel Presidente ....................................B2
Jesús.................................................... H4 37 Hotel Riviera ...........................................A2
10 Mella Portraits ........................................E3 38 Hotel St John's ....................................... E2
11 Ministerio del Interior............................ D6 39 Hotel Vedado.......................................... E2
12 Monumento a Antonio Maceo .............. G2 40 Hotel Victoria.......................................... E2
13 Monumento a Calixto García.................B1 41 La Casona Colonial - José Díaz ............ H3
14 Monumento a José Miguel 42 Luís Suávez Fiandor...............................C3
Gómez ................................................. D4 43 Manuel Martínez .................................... E2
15 Monumento a Julio Antonio 44 Marta Vitorte ..........................................C2
Mella .....................................................E3 45 Martha Obregón.................................... H3
16 Monumento a las Víctimas del 46 Melba Piñada Bermudez .......................A3
Maine .................................................... E1 47 Mercedes González ...............................D3
Museo Antropológico Montané... (see 19) 48 Nelsy Alemán Machado.........................E3
17 Museo de Artes Decorativas ................ C3 49 Villa Enano Rojo......................................H2
18 Museo de Danza .................................... C2
19 Museo de Historia Natural ú Eating
Felipe Poey...........................................E3 50 Agropecuario 17 & K ..............................D2
20 Museo del Ferrocarril ............................H6 51 Agropecuario 19 & A ..............................B3
21 Quinta de los Molinos.............................E4 52 Agropecuario 21 & J...............................D2
22 Torreón de San Lázaro.......................... G2 53 Bim Bom ................................................. F2
23 US Interests Section ..............................D1 54 Café TV ................................................... E2
55 Cafetería Sofía........................................ E2
Activities, Courses & Tours 56 Centro Vasco..........................................A3
24 Conjunto Folklórico Nacional de 57 Coppelia .................................................. E2
Cuba .................................................... A3 58 Decameron .............................................A3

The hotel’s notoriety was cemented in and injuring seven. More were executed
October 1933 when – following a sergeant’s later, after they had surrendered.
coup by Fulgencio Batista, which toppled In December 1946 the hotel gained noto-
the regime of Gerardo Machado – 300 ag- riety of a different kind when US mobsters
grieved army officers took refuge in the Meyer Lansky and Lucky Luciano used it
building hoping to curry favor with resident to host the largest ever get-together of the
US ambassador, Sumner Wells, who was North American Mafia, who gathered here
staying there. Much to the officers’ chagrin, under the guise of a Frank Sinatra concert.
Wells promptly left, allowing Batista’s troops These days the hotel maintains a more
to open fire on the hotel killing 14 of them reputable face and the once famous casino
is long gone, though the kitschy Parisién
 75
59 El Conejito .............................................. D2 85 Cine Riviera.............................................D3
60 El Gringo Viejo........................................ C3 86 Cine Trianón ...........................................A3
61 Flor de Loto ............................................ H4 87 Cine Yara................................................. E2
62 La Casona & 17 .......................................D1 Cinecito ......................................... (see 82)
La Rampa ......................................(see 33) 88 Club La Red.............................................D2
La Torre ........................................... (see 5) 89 Club Tropical ..........................................C2

Havana S ights
downtown
Downtown
63 Organopónico Plaza .............................. C7 Copa Room ................................... (see 37)
64 Pain de París .......................................... B3 90 Discoteca Amanecer...............................E1
Pain de París ............................... (see 107) 91 El Gato Tuerto .........................................E1
65 Paladar Aries...........................................E3 El Hurón Azul ................................ (see 26)
66 Paladar El Hurón Azul ............................F2 Habana Café ................................. (see 34)

Havana sights
67 Paladar La Guarida................................ H3 92 Instituto Cubano de Amistad
68 Paladar Los Amigos ...............................E2 con los Pueblos ...................................B4
69 Peso Pizza ...............................................F3 Jazz Café..................................... (see 105)
70 Peso Stalls.............................................. B4 93 Jazz Club La Zorra y El Cuervo ............. E2

S ights 
71 Restaurante Vegetariano 94 Karachi Club ...........................................D2
Carmelo............................................... B2 95 La Madriguera ........................................ F4
Supermercado Meridiano.......... (see 105) Piano Bar Delirio Habanero........ (see 101)
72 Trattoría Maraka's..................................E2 Pico Blanco ................................... (see 38)
96 Sala Polivalente Ramón Fonst .............. E5
û Drinking 97 Sala Teatro El Sótano ............................ E3
73 Bar-Club Imágenes................................ B2 98 Sala Teatro Hubert de Blanck ...............B3
74 Café Fresa y Chocolate ......................... A5 99 Teatro Amadeo Roldán..........................B2
75 Café Literario del 'G'.............................. D3 100 Teatro Mella............................................B3
101 Teatro Nacional de Cuba.......................D5
ý Entertainment 102 Teatro Nacional de Guiñol..................... E2
76 Cabaret Las Vegas .................................F2
Cabaret Parisién ...........................(see 35) þ Shopping
Cabaret Turquino .........................(see 33) ARTex............................................ (see 87)
Café Cantante..............................(see 101) 103 Feria de la Artesanía ..............................B2
77 Café Teatro Brecht................................ D2 Galería de Arte Latinoamericano.. (see 3)
78 Callejón de Hamel...................................F3 104 Galería Habana.......................................B2
Casa de la Amsitad.......................(see 92) 105 Galerías de Paseo...................................A2
79 Casa de la Cultura Centro Instituto Cubano del Arte e
Habana ................................................ G4 Industria
80 Casa de la Cultura de Plaza .................. A3 Cinematográficos...................... (see 74)
Casa de las Américas..................... (see 3) 106 La Habana Sí........................................... E2
81 Casa del Alba Cultural........................... B2 107 Librería Centenario del
Centro Cultural Cinematográfico (see 74) Apóstol................................................. F2
82 Cine Charles Chaplín............................. B5 Libreria Rayuela ............................. (see 3)
83 Cine Infanta.............................................F3 108 Plaza Carlos III....................................... G4
84 Cine La Rampa........................................E2 109 Sevando Galería del Arte.......................B5

cabaret is still a popular draw. Nonguests opened, and promptly renamed the Habana
are welcome to admire the Moorish lobby, Libre. During the first few months of the
stroll the breezy grounds overlooking the Revolution, Fidel ruled the country from a
Malecón and examine the famous photos of luxurious suite on the 24th floor.
past guests on the walls inside. A 670-sq-meter Venetian tile mural by
Amelia Peláez is splashed across the front
Hotel Habana Libre notable building
of the building, while upstairs Alfredo Sosa
(Map p72; Calle L btwn Calles 23 & 25) This classic Bravo’s Carro de la Revolución utilizes 525
modernist hotel – the former Havana Hilton ceramic pieces. There are some good shops
– was commandeered by Castro’s revolution- here and an interesting photo gallery in-
aries in 1959 just nine months after it had side, displaying snaps of the all-conquering
 barbudas (literally ‘bearded ones’) lolling Perched on a Vedado hill at the top of
76 around with their guns in the hotel’s lobby the famous escalinata (stairway), near the
in January 1959. Alma Mater statue, the university’s central
quadrangle, the Plaza Ignacio Agramonte,
Edificio Focsa Landmark
displays a tank captured by Castro’s rebels in
(Map p72; Focsa building; cnr Calles 17 & M) Un- 1958. Directly in front is the Librería Alma
missable on the Havana skyline, the mod- Mater (library) and, to the left, the Museo
ernist Edificio Focsa was built in 1954–56 in de Historia Natural Felipe Poey (Map p72;
a record 28 months using pioneering com-
Havana D o wnto wn H avana

admission CUC$1; h9am-noon & 1-4pm Mon-Fri

puter technology. In 1999 it was listed as one Sep-Jul), the oldest museum in Cuba, found-
of the seven modern engineering wonders ed in 1874 by the Royal Academy of Medical,
of Cuba. With 39 floors housing 373 apart- Physical and Natural Sciences. Many of the
ments, it was, on its completion in June stuffed specimens of Cuban flora and fauna
1956, the second-largest concrete structure date from the 19th century. Upstairs is the
of its type in the world, constructed entirely Museo Antropológico Montané (Map p72;
without the use of cranes. Falling on hard admission CUC$1; h9am-noon & 1-4pm Mon-Fri
times in the early ’90s, the upper floors of Sep-Jul), established in 1903, with a rich col-
the Focsa became nests for vultures, and lection of pre-Columbian Indian artifacts
in 2000 an elevator cable snapped killing including the wooden 10th-century Ídolo del
one person. Rejuvenated once more after a Tabaco.
restoration project, this skyline-dominating
Havana giant nowadays contains residential Monumento a Julio
apartments and – in the shape of top-floor Antonio Mella Monument
restaurant La Torre (p103) – one of the city’s (Map p72; cnr Neptuno & San Lázaro) At the bot-
most celebrated eating establishments. tom of the university steps there is a monu-
ment to the student leader who founded the
Hotel Capri Ruin
first Cuban Communist Party in 1925. In
(Map p72; Calle 21 cnr Calle N) Some cities sport 1929 the dictator Machado had Mella assas-
Roman ruins, Havana, on the other hand, sinated in Mexico City. More interesting than
has 1950s ruins. The not-so-ancient Capri the monument itself are the black-and-white
was built in modernist style with mafia Mella portraits permanently mounted on
money in 1957. In its (brief) heyday, the ho- the wall in the little park across San Lázaro.
tel was owned by mobster Santo Trafficante
who used American actor George Raft as his Museo Napoleónico Museum
debonair front-man. When Castro’s guer- (Map p72; San Miguel No 1159; unguided/guided
rillas came knocking in January 1959, Raft CUC$3/5; h9am-4:30pm Tue-Sat) An anomaly
allegedly told them where to stick it and – but an interesting one – is the esoteric
slammed the door in their faces. The hotel, Museo Napoleónico situated just outside
with its rooftop pool has featured in two the university walls. It’s a collection of 7000
movies: Carol Reed’s Our Man in Havana objects associated with the life of Napoleon
and Mikhael Kalatazov’s Soy Cuba. It was Bonaparte amassed by Cuban sugar baron
also the setting for Michael Corleone’s meet- Julio Lobo and politician Orestes Ferrera.
ing with Hyman Roth in The Godfather: Highlights include sketches of Voltaire,
Part II, though, due to the embargo, Coppola paintings of the battle of Waterloo, china,
shot the scenes in the Dominican Republic. furniture, an interesting recreation of Napo-
Closed in 2003, the Capri is now a 19-story leon’s study and bedroom, and one of several
ruin awaiting its second coming. bronze Napoleonic death masks made two
days after the emperor’s death by his per-
Universidad de la Habana University
sonal physician, Dr Francisco Antommarchi.
(Map p72; cnr Calle L & San Lázaro) Founded by
Dominican monks in 1728 and secularized Museo de Artes Decorativas Museum
in 1842, Havana University began life in Ha- (Map p72; Calle 17 No 502 btwn Calles D & E; admis-
bana Vieja before moving to its present site sion CUC$2; h11am-7pm Tue-Sat) Worth check-
in 1902. The existing neoclassical complex ing out if you’re in the neighborhood (it’s a
dates from the second quarter of the 20th little out of the way) is this decorative arts
century, and today some 30,000 students museum with its fancy rococo, oriental and
follow courses in social sciences, humanities, art deco baubles. Perhaps more interesting
natural sciences, mathematics and econom- is the building itself, of French design, com-
ics here. missioned in 1924 by the wealthy Gómez
family (who built the Manzana de Gómez ple (nearly one-tenth of the Cuban popula-
shopping center in Centro Havana). tion) crammed into the square to hear Pope 77
Jean Paul II say Mass.
Museo de Danza Museum
The ugly concrete block on the northern
(Map p72; Línea No 365; admission CUC$2; h11am- side of the Plaza is the Ministerio del Inte-
6:30pm Tue-Sat) A dance museum in Cuba rior (Map p72), well known for its huge mu-
– well, there’s no surprise there. This long- ral of Che Guevara (a copy of Alberto Korda’s
standing place in an eclectic Vedado man- famous photograph taken in 1960) with the
sion collects objects from Cuba’s rich dance

Havana S ights
downtown
Downtown
words Hasta la Victoria Siempre (Always
history, including some personal effects of Toward Victory) emblazoned underneath.
ex-ballerina, Alicia Alonso. In 2009 a similarly designed image of Cuba’s
Plaza de la Revolución Square other heroic guerrillero, Camilo Cienfuegos
Conceived by French urbanist Jean Claude was added on the adjacent telecommunica-
Forestier in the 1920s, the gigantic Plaza tions building.

Havana sights
de la Revolución (Map p72; known as Plaza On the eastern side is the 1957 Biblioteca
Cívica until 1959) was part of Havana’s ‘new Nacional José Martí (Map p72; admission free;
city’, which grew up between 1920 and 1959. h8am-9:45pm Mon-Sat), which has a photo
exhibit in the lobby, while on the west is the

S ights 
As the nexus point of Forestier’s ambitious
plan, the square was built on a small hill (the Teatro Nacional de Cuba (p110).
Loma de los Catalanes) in the manner of Tucked behind the Martí Memorial are
Paris’ Place de Étoile, with various avenues the governmental offices housed in the heav-
fanning out toward the Río Almendares, ily guarded Comité Central del Partido
Vedado and the Parque de la Fraternidad in Comunista de Cuba.
Centro Habana. Memorial a José Martí Monument, Museum
Surrounded by grey, utilitarian buildings (Map p72; admission CUC$5; h9:30am-5pm Mon-
constructed in the late 1950s, the square Sat) Center-stage in Plaza de la Revolución is
today is the base of the Cuban government this monument, which at 138.5m is Havana’s
and a place where large-scale political rallies tallest structure. Fronted by an impressive
are held. In January 1998, one million peo- 17m marble statue of a seated Martí in a

Havana Eclectic
With its architecture – as with its music – Havana exhibits very little purity of style. In-
stead, what you are confronted with is a roguish mish-mash, a bastardization of various
imported genres that, over time, have merged into a faintly distinguishable whole some-
times referred to as ‘Havana Eclectic’.
The reasons for these deviations are manifold. In the early colonial period a lack
of skilled labor in Cuba meant that the ornamentation of European architecture was
often streamlined into a simpler form of ‘Cuban baroque’ sculpted from hard Havana
limestone hewn from the nearby San Lázaro quarries. Other buildings were adapted
from European architectural designs to suit local climatic needs with features such as
portales (porches), mezzanine floors and large glassless windows added. Then there was
the penetration of outside influences. Mirroring its rich ethnicity, Havana’s architecture
became a complicated melting pot of themes and ideas. Giuseppe Antonelli employed
Italian Renaissance features in constructing his great harbor-side forts, elements of
French neoclassicism seeped into early-19th-century buildings via Haiti, the influence of
modernisme came with Spanish immigrants from Catalonia, and art deco arrived with
forward-thinking architects from the United States.
The high point of Cuban eclecticism came during the economic boom of the early
1920s when fat-cat businessmen made rich on sugar pumped their money into ever
more ostentatious mansions in the flowering suburbs of Vedado and Miramar.
Havana’s greatest eclectic buildings include the Gran Teatro de La Habana (p67), the
Hotel Nacional (p118), the Palacio Presidencial, which now houses the Museo de la Revo-
lución (p70), and the Palacio Velasco (p70). For the finest concentration of eclecticism
wander down Paseo de Martí (Prado) in Centro Havana, Calle 17 in Vedado, or Av Quinta
in Miramar.
 pensive Thinker pose, the memorial houses cult in Cuba, and thousands of people come
78 a museum – the definite word on Martí in here annually with gifts in the hope of fulfill-
Cuba – and a 129m lookout (reached via a ing dreams or solving problems. In keeping
small CUC$2 lift) with fantastic city views. with tradition, pilgrims knock with the iron
ring on the vault and walk away backwards
Quinta de los Molinos Landmark
when they leave.
(Map p72; cnr Av Salvador Allende & Luaces) The Also worth seeking out is the tomb of Or-
former stately residence of General Máximo thodox Party leader Eduardo Chibás (Calle 8
Gómez, the Quinta sits amid lush botanical
Havana D o wnto wn H avana

btwn Calles E & F). During the 1940s and early

gardens on land that once belonged to Ha- ’50s Chibás was a relentless crusader against
vana University. The residence and grounds political corruption, and as a personal pro-
seem to be stuck in a perennial renovation test he committed suicide during a radio
project, with promises of a new museum broadcast in 1951. At his burial ceremony a
and touched-up botanical gardens in the young Orthodox Party activist named Fidel
ever-distant future. The potential is huge. Castro jumped atop Chibás’ grave and made
Necrópolis Cristóbal Colón Cemetery a fiery speech denouncing the old establish-
(Map p72; admission CUC$5; h8am-5pm) Once ment – the political debut of the most influ-
described as an ‘exercise in pious excesses,’ ential Cuban of the 20th century.
this cemetery (a national monument) is re- Also worth looking out for are the graves
nowned for its striking religious iconography of novelist Alejo Carpentier (1904–80), sci-
and elaborate marble statues. Far from being entist Carlos Finlay (1833–1915), the Martyrs
eerie, a walk through these 56 hallowed hect- of Granma and the Veterans of the Indepen-
ares can be an educational and emotional dence Wars.
stroll through the annals of Cuban history.
A guidebook with a detailed map (CUC$5) is oMalecón Street
for sale at the entrance. It’s one of the largest The Malecón (Map p72), Havana’s evocative
cemeteries in the Americas. 8km-long sea drive, is one of the city’s most
After entering the neo-Romanesque soulful and quintessentially Cuban thor-
northern gateway (1870), there’s the tomb oughfares.
of independence leader General Máximo Long a favored meeting place for assorted
Gómez (1905) on the right (look for the lovers, philosophers, poets, traveling min-
bronze face in a circular medallion). Fur- strels, fishermen and wistful Florida-gazers,
ther along past the first circle, and also on the Malecón’s atmosphere is most potent
the right, are the monument to the fire- at sunset when the weak yellow light from
fighters (1890) and the neo-Romanesque creamy Vedado filters like a dim torch onto
Capilla Central (1886) in the center of the the buildings of Centro Habana, lending
cemetery. Just northeast of this chapel is the their dilapidated facades a distinctly ethe-
graveyard’s most celebrated (and visited) real quality.
tomb, that of Señora Amelia Goyri (cnr Laid out in the early 1900s as a salubri-
Calles 1 & F), better known as La Milagrosa ous ocean-side boulevard for Havana’s plea-
(the miraculous one), who died while giving sure-seeking middle classes, the Malecón
birth on May 3, 1901. The marble figure of a expanded rapidly eastward in the century’s
woman with a large cross and a baby in her first decade with a mishmash of eclectic ar-
arms is easy to find due to the many flowers chitecture that mixed sturdy neoclassicism
piled on the tomb and the local devotees in with whimsical art nouveau. By the 1920s
attendance. For many years after her death, the road had reached the outer limits of
her heartbroken husband visited the grave burgeoning Vedado, and by the early 1950s
several times a day. He always knocked with it had metamorphosed into a busy six-lane
one of four iron rings on the burial vault highway that carried streams of wave-dodg-
and walked away backwards so he could see ing Buicks and Chevrolets from the grey
her for as long as possible. When the bod- hulk of the Castillo de San Salvador de la
ies were exhumed some years later, Amelia’s Punta to the borders of Miramar.
body was uncorrupted (a sign of sanctity in Today the Malecón remains Havana’s
the Catholic faith) and the baby, who had most authentic open-air theater, a real-life
been buried at its mother’s feet, was – alleg- ‘cabaret of the poor’ where the whole city
edly – found in her arms. As a result, La Mil- comes to meet, greet, date and debate.
agrosa became the focus of a huge spiritual
 Fighting an ongoing battle with the cor- Av de los Presidentes Street
rosive effects of the ocean, many of the thor- Statues of illustrious Latin American leaders 79
oughfare’s magnificent buildings now face line the Las Ramblas style Calle G (Map p72;
decrepitude, demolition or irrevocable dam- offically known as Av de los Presidentes),
age. To combat the problem, 14 blocks of the including Salvador Allende (Chile), Benito
Malecón have been given special status by Juárez (Mexico) and Simón Bolívar. At the
the City Historian’s Office in an attempt to top of the avenue is a huge marble Monu-
stop the rot. mento a José Miguel Gómez (Map p72),

Havana S ights
downtown
Downtown
Cuba’s second president. At the other end,
Monumento a Antonio Maceo Monument
the monument to his predecessor – Cuba’s
Lying in the shadow of Hospital Nacional first president – Tomás Estrada Palma (long
Hermanos Ameijeiras (San Lázaro No 701), considered a US puppet) has been toppled,
a Soviet-era 24-story hospital built in 1980, and all that remains are his shoes on a plinth.
is this bronze representation (Map p72) of Guarding the entrance to Calle G on the

Havana sights
the mulato general who cut a blazing trail Malecón is the equestrian Monumento a
across the entire length of Cuba during the Calixto García (Map p72; cnr Malecón & Calle G),
First War of Independence. The nearby 18th- paying homage to the valiant Cuban general
century Torreón de San Lázaro (Map p72) who was prevented by US military leaders in

S ights 
is a watchtower that quickly fell to the Brit- Santiago de Cuba from attending the Span-
ish during the invasion of 1762. ish surrender in 1898. Twenty-four bronze
Monumento a las Víctimas plaques around the statue provide a history
del Maine Monument of García’s 30-year struggle for Cuban inde-
(Map p72; Malecón) West beyond Hotel Na- pendence.
cional is a monument to the victims of USS
Maine, the battleship that blew up mys- FCasa de las Américas Cultural Center

teriously in Havana harbor in 1898. Once (Map p72; www.casa.cult.cu; cnr Calles 3 & G;
crowned by an American eagle, the monu- h10am-4:40pm Tue-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun) Just off
ment (first raised during the American- the Malecón at the ocean-end of Calle G, this
dominated period in 1926) was decapitated cultural institution was set up by Moncada
during the 1959 Revolution. survivor Haydee Santamaría in 1959 and
awards one of Latin America’s oldest and
US Interests Section Landmark most prestigious literary prizes. Inside
(Map p72; Calzada btwn Calles L & M) The mod- there’s an art gallery, a bookstore and an at-
ern seven-story building with the high secu- mosphere of erudite intellectualism.
rity fencing at the western end of this open
space is the US Interests Section, first set Gran Synagoga Bet Shalom Synagogue

up by the Carter administration in the late (Map p72; Calle I No 251 btwn Calles 13 & 15) Cuba
1970s. Surrounded by hysterical graffiti, the has three synagogues servicing a Jewish pop-
building is the site of some of the worst tit- ulation of approximately 1500. The main com-
for-tat finger-wagging on the island. Facing munity center and library are located here,
the office front is the Plaza de la Dignidad, where the friendly staff would be happy to tell
built during the Elián González saga to host interested visitors about the fascinating and
major in-your-face protests under the nose little-reported history of the Jews in Cuba.
of the Americans. Concerts, protests and Museo del Ferrocarril Museum
marches – some one-million strong – are (cnr Av de México & Arroyo; admission CUC$2;
still held here. h9am-5pm) Two facts worth pondering: 1)
Edificio López Serrano Landmark Cuba was the sixth country in the world to
(Map p72; Calle L btwn Calles 11 & 13) Tucked develop a railway network; 2) it was running
away behind the US Interests Section is this trains a good decade before its colonizing
art deco tower, which looks like the Empire power, Spain. All the more reason to visit this
State with the bottom 70 floors chopped off. peripheral museum housed in the old Cris-
One of Havana’s first rascacielos (skyscrap- tina train station built in 1859. There’s a big
ers) when it was built in 1932, the López collection of signaling and communication
Serrano building now houses apartments. gear here plus old locos and an overview of
Cuba’s pioneering railway history. Train rides
are possible by prior appointment.
 66
66
6
Start Calle Merca-

6
deres
80 Finish Museo Casa
Natal de José Martí Parque Luz Av Carlos
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Walking Tour
Rehabilitated Habana Vieja Tour
The rehabilitation of Habana Vieja would building houses the Cinematógrafo Lumière,
be a huge achievement in any country, a small cinema that shows nostalgia movies
let alone one wracked by a devastating eco- for senior citizens, and educational docu-
nomic crisis. The piecing together of the Old mentaries about the restoration for visitors.
Town began in the late 1970s and is ongoing. Step out of the door onto Calle Mer-
The plan, run by the City Historian’s Office caderes, one of the city’s most complete
and headed up by Eusebio Leal Spengler, has streets, which has been undergoing piece-
restored Havana’s most important historic meal restoration since the early 1980s. The
buildings, created groundbreaking social City Historian’s Office employs hundreds of
projects for the local population, and gar- people to aid it in its meticulous restoration
nered numerous international prizes for its work, and specializes in everything from
cultural, historical and sustainable work. You stone and metalwork to religious art and
can see it in all its glory on this atmospheric antique furniture.
walk. One workshop open to the public is the
An ideal place to start your tour of Habana Taller de Papel Artesanal, a couple of doors
Vieja is a short block of 1 Calle Merca- down from the Maqueta. This workshop has
deres holding no fewer than four separate revived old manufacturing methods in order
points of interest: Maqueta de la Ciudad, to make artisan paper for traditional art. The
Cinematógrafo Lumière, Taller de Papel Arte- socio-cultural project has a small exposition
sanal and Casa de la Obra Pía. room explaining its practices.
Start by getting orientated at the Maqueta Another architectural highlight on Mer-
de la Ciudad, a 1:500 scale model of Habana caderes is the Casa de la Obra Pía, a former
Vieja, with added sound effects, inaugurated Spanish nobleman’s mansion dating from
by Queen Sofia of Spain in 1999. The same 1648. The house was rehabilitated in 1983
as both a museum and a community project in 2009, it has reopened as the Museo de
and now produces textiles made and sold Navegación (Naval Museum). 81
on-site by local people. If you’re feeling peckish at this point, divert
Further down the street is the 2 Museo to the Habaguanex-run 9 Restaurant el
del Chocolate, opened in 2003 under the Templete, which overlooks the harbor. This
auspices of a Belgian-sponsored UN project restaurant opened in 2005 and serves fan-
that also contributed to the rehabilitation of tastic seafood.
64 local residences nearby. Duck inside for Going west from Plaza de Armas, head

Havana
Downtown
some sugary treats. up Calle Obispo to the a Farmacia Museo
3 Plaza Vieja is the square most Taquechel, an old pharmacy that was
recently restored by the City Historian’s Of- adapted from a townhouse in 1898. Restored
fice, and has an impressive Carrera marble in 1996, it functions as both a pharmaceutical

S ights
fountain in the center. On the east side is the museum (check out the old china pots and
4 Fototeca, a photographic archive of Old plush wooden counter), and a working phar-

Havana S ights
Havana since the early 20th century that was macy for the local population.
started by former City Historian, Emilio Roig Continue up Obispo and turn left on Calle
de Leuchsenring in 1937. There are an esti- Aguiar. In one block you’ll be facing the
mated 14,000 photos inside, and they have b Oratorio San Felipe Neri, a cultural
been instrumental in providing the graphic center, headquartered in an old church origi-
pointers for the current restoration. nally built in 1693. Although it lost many of its
Cut down Calle Brasil, turn left on Calle original features when it was converted into a
Oficios, and you’ll come out by the bank in 1952, the church was revitalized in a
5 Iglesia y Monasterio de San Francisco 2004 rehabilitation and now hosts classical-
de Asís. Built in 1739, this church/convent music concerts and a small exhibition of
ceased to have a religious function in the religious art.
1840s. In the late 1980s crypts and religious Head two blocks west on Obrapía and
objects were dug up during excavations, and several blocks south on Compostela to reach
many of them were later incorporated into one of Havana’s – and Cuba’s – most com-
the Museo de Arte Religioso that opened on mendable social projects, the little-visited
the site in 1994. Since 2005, part of the old c Convento y Iglesia de Nuestra Señora
monastery has functioned as a children’s de Belén. This huge building was completed
theater for the neighborhood’s young resi- in 1718 and functioned first as a convales-
dents. cent home and later a Jesuit convent. It was
For an example of how the city has learnt abandoned in 1925 and fell into disrepair
to generate income from its history, take exacerbated in 1991 by a damaging fire. The
a look inside the five-star 6 Hotel San City Historian reversed the decline in the
Felipe y Santiago de Bejúcal, overlooking late ’90s, using tourist coffers to make this
the Plaza de San Francisco de Asís. Run by splendid old building into an active com-
Habaguanex, the commercial arm of the City munity center for families, young people, the
Historian’s Office, the hotel was opened in physically and mentally impaired, and the
2010 and is one of over a dozen such estab- elderly (there are 18 permanent apartments
lishments in the colonial core. for senior citizens here).
Following Oficios north, you’ll end up in For the grand finale, follow Compostela
the third restored square, Plaza de Armas, four more blocks south and turn right on
dominated by the 7 Palacio de los Capi- Leonor Pérez to reach the d Museo Casa
tanes Generales, the emblematic building Natal de José Martí, which opened in 1925
of Habaguanex and the first to be restored in and is considered to be the oldest museum
1968. The baroque structure was constructed in Havana. The City Historian’s Office took
between 1776 and 1791 and today houses the the house over in 1994, and its succinct stash
Museo de la Ciudad. of exhibits devoted to Cuba’s national hero
Diagonally across the square is the continues to impress.
8 Castillo de la Real Fuerza, one of the
oldest forts in the New World, constructed in
1558 to protect Havana harbor from pirate
attacks. From 1990–2005, the fort housed
a ceramic museum. Freshly restored again
 82
2 Activities Cubamar Viajes Language

Havana’s two marinas, which offer numerous (Map p72; %830-1220; www.cubamarviajes.cu;
fishing, diving, and boating opportunities, lie Av 3 btwn Calle 12 & Malecón, Vedado; h8:30am-
in its outer suburbs. See p124 for more details. 5pm Mon-Sat)
Havana, with its spectacular Malecón sea Teatro América Dance
drive, possesses one of the world’s most sce- (Map p68; %862-5416; Av de Italia No 253 btwn
nic municipal jogging routes. The path from Concordia & Neptuno, Centro Habana) Next to
the Castillo de San Salvador de la Punta the Casa de la Música, it can fix you up with
Havana D o wnto wn H avana

to the outer borders of Miramar measures both a class and a partner for approximately
8km, though you can add on a few extra CUC$8 per hour.
meters for holes in the pavement, splashing
Conjunto Folklórico Nacional
waves, veering jineteros (touts) and old men
de Cuba Dance
with fishing lines.
(Map p72; %830-3060; www.folkcuba.cult.cu; Calle
The recent upsurge in fume-belching traf-
4 No 103 btwn Calzada & Calle 5, Vedado) Teaches
fic has meant that the air along the Malecón
highly recommended classes in son, salsa,
has become increasingly polluted. If you can
rumba, mambo and more. It also teaches
handle it, run first thing in the morning.
percussion. Classes start on the third Mon-
Boxing enthusiasts should check out
day in January and the first Monday in
Gimnasio de Boxeo Rafael Trejo (Map p58;
July, and cost in the vicinity of CUC$400 to
%862-0266; Cuba No 815 btwn Merced & Leonor
CUC$500 for a 15-day course. An admission
Pérez, Habana Vieja). At this boxing gym you
test places students in classes of four differ-
can see fights on Friday at 7pm (CUC$1),
ent levels.
or drop by any day after 4pm to watch the
training. Travelers interested in boxing can Centro Hispano Americano
find a trainer here. Enquire within; they’re de Cultura Culture
very friendly. (Map p68; %860-6282; Malecón No 17 btwn Paseo
de Martí & Capdevila, Centro Habana; h9am-5pm
C Courses Tue-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun) Has all kinds of facilities,
Aside from Spanish-language courses, Ha- including a library, cinema, internet cafe and
vana offers a large number of learning ac- concert venue. Pick up its excellent monthly
tivities for aspiring students. Private lessons brochure and ask about the literature courses.
can be arranged by asking around locally –
Paradiso culture
try your casa particular. Your casa particular
(Map p72; %832-9538; www.paradiso.cu; Calle 19
can also probably point you in the direction
No 560, Vedado) A cultural agency that can ar-
of dance classes. If your owner says he (or
she) can’t dance, he’s either lying or not en- range courses of between four and 12 weeks
dowed with sufficient Cuban blood. on history, architecture, music, theater,
dance and more. The University of Havana
Universidad de la Habana language also runs 60-hour courses on Cuban culture
(Map p72; %832-4245, 831-3751; www.uh.cu; Edi- for CUC$360.
ficio Varona, 2nd fl, Calle J No 556, Vedado) Offers
Museo de Artes Decorativas yoga
Spanish courses 12 months a year, beginning
(Map p72; %830-9848; Calle 17 No 502 btwn Calles
on the first Monday of each month. Costs
D & E, Vedado) You may be able to drop in on
start at CUC$100 for 20 hours (one week),
including textbooks, and cover all levels yoga classes held in the garden here. Check
from beginners to advanced. You must first at the museum for the next session.
sit a placement test to determine your level. Teatro Nacional de Cuba yoga
Aspiring candidates can sign up in person (Map p72; %879-6011; cnr Paseo & Calle 39, Vedado)
at the university or reserve beforehand via Look for the class schedule by the box office.
email or phone.
Other places to check out Spanish courses Centro Andaluz music
include the following: (Map p68;%863-6745; Paseo de Martí btwn Vir-
Uneac Language
tudes & Neptuno, Centro Habana) Typically, Cu-
(Map p72; %832-4551; cnr Calles 17 & H, Vedado) bans perform flamenco as well as the Span-
ish, and you can take dance classes or even
Paradiso Language
enquire about the possibility of taking guitar
(Map p72; %832-9538; Calle 19 No 560, Vedado) lessons here.
Taller Experimental de Gráfica art z Festivals & Events
(Map p58; %862-0979; Callejón del Chorro No 6, Not surprisingly, Havana has the best collec- 83
Habana Vieja) Offers classes in the art of en- tion of annual festivals in Cuba. The high-
graving. Individualized instruction lasts one lights are all listed in the Month by Month
month, during which the student creates an chapter (see p22).
engraving with 15 copies; longer classes can
be arranged. It costs around CUC$250. 4 Sleeping
With nigh on 3000 private houses letting out
T Tours

Havana To urs
downtown
Downtown
rooms, you’ll never struggle to find accom-
Most general agencies offer the same tours, modation in Havana. Casas particulares go
with some exceptions noted below. The for anywhere between CUC$20 and CUC$40
regular tour diet includes a four-hour city per room, with Centro Habana offering the
tour (CUC$15), a specialized Hemingway best bargains. Rock-bottom budget hotels can
tour (from CUC$20), a cañonazo ceremony match casas for price, but not comfort. There’s

Havana to
(the shooting of the cannons at the For- a dearth of decent hotels in the midrange
taleza de San Carlos de la Cabaña; without/ price bracket, while Havana’s top-end hotels
with dinner CUC$15/25), a Varadero day are plentiful and offer oodles of atmosphere,
trip (from CUC$35) and, of course, excur-

To urs 
even if the overall standards can’t always
sions to Tropicana Nightclub (starting at match facilities elsewhere in the Caribbean.
CUC$65). Other options include tours to Many of Havana’s hotels are historic mon-
Boca de Guamá crocodile farm (CUC$48), uments in their own right. Worth a look, even
Playas del Este (CUC$20 including lunch), if you’re not staying over, are Hotel Sevilla
Viñales (CUC$44), Cayo Largo del Sur and Hotel Saratoga (located in Centro Ha-
(CUC$137) and a Trinidad-Cienfuegos over- bana), the Raquel, Hostal Condes de Villan-
night (CUC$129). Children usually pay a ueva and Hotel Florida (all in Habana Vieja),
fraction of the price for adults, and solo trav- and the iconic Hotel Nacional (in Vedado).
elers get socked with a CUC$15 supplement.
Note that if the minimum number of people Habana Vieja
don’t sign up, the trip will be cancelled. Any oHostal Condes
of the following agencies can arrange these de Villanueva Hotel $$$
tours and more: (Map p58; %862-9293; Mercaderes No 202; s/d
Cubatur General Tours CUC$100/160; a) If you are going to splash
(Map p72; %835-4155; cnr Calles 23 & M, Vedado; out on one night of luxury in Havana, you’d
h8am-8pm) Below the Hotel Habana Libre. do well to check out this highly lauded colo-
Havanatur General Tours nial gem. Restored under the watchful eye
(Map p72; %835-3720; cnr Calles 23 & M, Vedado) of City Historian Eusebio Leal Spengler in
the late ’90s, the Villanueva has been con-
Infotur Information Agency
verted from a grandiose city mansion into
Airport (%642-6101; Terminal 3 Aeropuerto
an intimate and thoughtfully decorated ho-
Internacional José Martí; h24hr); Habana Vieja
tel with nine bedrooms spread spaciously
(Map p58; %863-6884; cnr Obispo & San Ignacio;
around an attractive inner courtyard (com-
h10am-1pm & 2-7pm)
plete with resident peacock). Upstairs suites
Paradiso Cultural Tours contain stained-glass windows, chandeliers,
(Map p72; %832-9538; Calle 19 No 560, Vedado) arty sculptures and – in one of them – a fully
Offers tours with an emphasis on art. workable whirlpool bathtub.
Tours depart from many cities and are
in several languages. Check out Martí’s Hotel San Felipe y Santiago
Havana or special concert tours. de Bejúcal Hotel $$$
(Map p58; %864-9191; cnr Oficios & Amargura; s/d
San Cristóbal Agencia
CUC$150/240; aiW) Cuban baroque meets
de Viajes Cultural Tours
modern minimalist in Habaguanex’s newest
(Map p58; %861-9171/2; www.viajessancristobal.
offering, and the results are something to
cu; Oficios No 110 btwn Lamparilla & Amargura,
behold. Spreading 27 rooms over six floors
Habana Vieja; h8:30am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, 8:30am-
in the blustery Plaza San Francisco de Asís,
2pm Sat, 9am-noon Sun) Offers the best tours
this place is living proof that Habaguanex’s
in the city including a Havana archeologi- delicate restoration work is getting better
cal tour (CUC$20 for two people) and a and better. If the Americans really are com-
tour of the city’s valuable social projects. ing, they’re going to be impressed.
 84 Start El Prado
Finish Malecón
Distance 4km
Duration 3 hours

Walking Tour
Centro Habana
66
Havana D o wnto wn H avana

Architectural Tour

6
66
Straits of
From the end of the 1 Prado, head south Florida
toward Parque Central, passing the 2
Teatro Fausto, an art deco classic that ex-
hibits the sharp lines and pure cubist simplic-
Parque
ity of Depression-era America. The theater is de los
&
~

66
66
Enamorados
famous for its light plays and comedy shows.
One block further up on the right is the '
€
#
1
3 Casa del Científico, an eclectic mas-

tí)
terpiece furnished with sweeping staircases

w
#
10

e Mar
and an eye-catching rooftop lookout that was n
có
once the residence of former Cuban presi- le ro Genios
Ma áza

d
66 (Paseo
dent, José Miguel Gómez. nL

te
Sa

a m on
Contrasting sharply with other modern ÿ Hotel
# Refugio
architectural styles on Calle Trocadero is the Deauville Colón

Prado

A gr
neo-Moorish 4 Hotel Sevilla, built in 1908 Trocadero #
3 #
2
but harking back to a bygone age of Spanish
stucco and intricate mudéjar craftsmanship. #
4
Animas

6
Turn right on Agramonte and detour down
Virtudes
Ánimas for Havana’s most emblematic art- #
5
Av de It alia

Concordia
deco building: the kitschy 5 Edificio Ba-
cardí. It’s a vivid and highly decorative incar- Ne ptu n o Parque Av de las M isione
Central
nation of this popular interwar architectural
fael
#
7
genre, garnished with granite, Capellanía San R
a #
6

666
66
limestone and multicolored bricks.
Águila

Capitolio
Agram

At the southwest corner of Parque Central, Nacional

eclecticism meets neobaroque at the flamboy-
s

Za #
9 na #
8
ant 6 Centro Gallego, erected as a Galician Barcelo
onte

nj
a
social club in 1915 around the existing Teatro
Dragones
Tacón. Facing it across leafy Parque Central is

66
66
6
Parque de
the equally eclectic 7 Centro Asturianas, Parque Fraternidad
El Curita
now part of the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes, ez
Av Simón Bolívar Gó
m
with four separate rooftop lookouts and a richly
xi mo
gilded interior. Centro Havana’s 8 Capitolio Má
Nacional, built between 1926 and 1929, cap-
tures Latin America’s neoclassical revival with

6
sweeping stairways and Doric columns harking
back to a purer and more strident Grecian ideal.
Pass beneath the Chinese pagoda on Drag-
ones and proceed down Calle Zanja to the
intersection of 9 Calle Zanja & Av de Italia,
where you’ll find one of Havana’s zaniest art-

66
deco creations, a narrow turreted townhouse
with cube-like balconies and sharply defined
lines. Turn right onto Av de Italia and walk north
0 200 m
to the a Malecón, Havana’s storm-lashed e
# 0 0.1 miles
sea drive, a museum of brilliant eclecticism.
Hotel Florida Hotel $$$ taurant. With a bit of imagination, you can
(Map p58; %862-4127; Obispo No 252; s/d incl almost see the ghosts of Don Quixote and 85
breakfast CUC$100/160; ai) They don’t make Sancho Panza floating through the hallways.
them like this anymore. The Florida is an ar- Slap-bang in the middle of the historical
chitectural extravaganza built in the purest core and with a price that makes it one of
colonial style, with arches and pillars clus- the cheapest offerings in the current Haba-
tered around an atmospheric central court- guanex stable, this hostel is an excellent old-
yard. Habaguanex has restored the building world choice, with good service and plenty

Havana S leeping
downtown
Downtown
(constructed in 1836) with loving attention of atmosphere.
to detail: the amply furnished rooms have
retained their original high ceilings and Hostal Palacio O’Farrill Hotel $$$

wonderfully luxurious finishes. Anyone (Map p58; %860-5080; Cuba No 102-108 btwn
with even a passing interest in Cuba’s ar- Chacón & Tejadillo; s/d CUC$100/160; ai) Not
chitectural heritage will want to check out an Irish joke, but one of Havana’s most im-

Havana sleeping
this colonial jewel, complemented with an pressive period hotels, the Palacio O’Farrill
elegant cafe and a popular bar-nightspot is a staggeringly beautiful colonial palace
(from 8pm). that once belonged to Don Ricardo O’Farrill,
a Cuban sugar entrepreneur who was de-

S leeping 
Hotel Raquel Hotel $$$ scended from a family of Irish nobility. Tak-
(Map p58; %860-8280; cnr Amargura & San Igna- ing the Emerald Isle as its theme, there’s
cio; s/d CUC$100/160; ai) Encased in a daz- plenty of greenery in the plant-filled 18th-
zling 1908 palace (that was once a bank), the century courtyard. The 2nd floor, which was
Hotel Raquel takes your breath away with its added in the 19th century, provides gran-
grandiose columns, sleek marble statues and diose neoclassical touches, while the 20th-
intricate stained-glass ceiling. Painstakingly century top floor merges seamlessly with the
restored in 2003, the reception area in this magnificent architecture below.
marvelous eclectic building is a tourist sight
in its own right – it’s replete with priceless Casa de Pepe & Rafaela Casa Particular $

antiques and intricate art-nouveau flourish- (Map p58; %862-9877; San Ignacio No 454 btwn Sol
es. Behind its impressive architecture, the & Santa Clara; r CUC$30) One of Havana’s best
Raquel offers well-presented if noisy rooms, casas: antiques and Moorish tiles through-
a small gym/sauna, friendly staff and a great out, two rooms with balconies and gorgeous
central location. new baths, excellent location and great
hosts. The son also rents a charming colonial
Hotel Santa Isabel Hotel $$$ house at San Ignacio No 656 (same price).
(Map p58; %860-8201; Baratillo No 9; s/d incl
breakfast CUC$150/240; ai) Considered one Juan & Margarita Casa Particular $

of Havana’s finest hotels, as well as one of (Map p58; %867-9592; Obispo No 522 apt 8 btwn
its oldest (it first began operations in 1867), Bernaza & Villegas; r CUC$30, apt CUC$60) A
the Hotel Santa Isabel is housed in the Pala- two-bedroom apartment on Obispo, no
cio de los Condes de Santovenia, the former less – Vieja’s version of NYC’s glamorous
crash pad of a decadent Spanish count. In Fifth Avenue. You can bag the whole place
1998 this three-story baroque beauty was for CUC$60: sitting room with TV and ta-
upgraded to five-star status, but unlike other ble, two clean bedrooms with baths, and a
posh Cuban hotels, the Santa Isabel actu- balcony. A gentleman and a scholar, Juan
ally comes close to justifying the billing. The speaks excellent English and has a lot of lo-
17 regular rooms have bundles of historic cal knowledge.
charm and are all kitted out with attractive Hostal Beltrán de la Santa Cruz Hotel $$$
Spanish colonial furniture as well as paint- (Map p58; %860-8330; San Ignacio No 411 btwn
ings by contemporary Cuban artists. No Muralla & Sol; s/d incl breakfast CUC$80/130; a)
small wonder ex-US president Jimmy Carter Excellent location, friendly staff and plenty
stayed here during his historic 2002 visit. of old-world authenticity make this compact
Hostal Valencia Hotel $$$
inn just off Plaza Vieja a winning combina-
(Map p58; %867-1037; Oficios No 53; s/d incl break- tion. Housed in a sturdy 18th-century build-
fast CUC$80/130) The Valencia is decked out ing and offering just 11 spacious rooms, inti-
like a Spanish posada (inn), with hanging macy is assured and the standard of service
vines, doorways big enough to ride a horse has been regularly lauded by both travelers
through and a popular on-site paella res- and reviewers.
 Hotel Ambos Mundos Hotel $$$ ful restoration, eager-to-please staff and
86 (Map p58; %860-9529; Obispo No 153; s/d plenty of colonial grandiosity.
CUC$100/160; ai) Hemingway’s Havana Hotel el Comendador Hotel $$$
hideout and the place where he is said to (Map p58; %867-1037; cnr Obrapía & Baratillo; a)
have penned his seminal guerrilla classic Situated next door to the Hostal Valencia,
For Whom the Bell Tolls (Castro’s bedtime the El Comendador offers similar facilities
reading during the war in the mountains), and rates.
the pastel-pink Ambos Mundos is a Havana
Noemi Moreno Casa Particular $
Havana D o wnto wn H avana

institution and an obligatory pit stop for

anyone on a world tour of ‘Hemingway-once- (Map p58; %862-3809; Cuba No 611 apt 2 btwn
fell-over-in-here’ bars. Small, sometimes Luz & Santa Clara; r CUC$25-30) Offering two
windowless rooms suggest overpricing, but simple, clean rooms sharing a bathroom,
the lobby bar is classic enough (follow the ro- Noemi’s got a great location behind the
mantic piano melody) and drinks in the roof- Santa Clara convent. If full, apartments 1
top restaurant one of the city’s finest treats. and 4 also rent in the same building.
Migdalia Carraballe Casa Particular $
Mesón de la Flota Hotel $$
(Map p58; %861-7352; Santa Clara No 164 btwn
(Map p58; %863-3838; Mercaderes No 257 btwn Cuba & San Ignacio; r CUC$30) Located two
Amargura & Brasil; s/d incl breakfast CUC$65/100) blocks from Plaza Vieja, Migdalia rents two
Habana Vieja’s smallest and only midrange from a choice of three rooms. The ones
hotel is an old Spanish tavern decked out with with balconies overlook Santa Clara con-
maritime motifs and located within spitting vent. Climb the staircase to the 1st floor.
distance of gracious Plaza Vieja. Five individu-
ally crafted rooms contain all of the modern Centro Habana
comforts and amenities, while downstairs a
busy restaurant serves up delicious tapas. oHotel NH Parque Central Hotel $$$
(Map p68; %860-6627; www.nh-hotels.com;
Pablo Rodríguez Casa Particular $ Neptuno btwn Agramonte & Paseo de Martí; s/d
(Map p58; %861-2111; pablo@sercomar.tele mar. CUC$200/300; pais) If you have a pen-
cu; Compostela No 532 btwn Brasil & Muralla; r chant for hanging out in expensive five-star
CUC$30) Another lovely old colonial clas- hotel lobbies sipping mojitos, the Parque
sic, this place has some original frescoes Central could fill a vacuum. Reserving a room
partially uncovered on the walls. It would is another (more expensive) matter. Outside
be worth millions elsewhere, but here you Havana’s two Meliás, the NH is, without a
can rent one of venerable Pablo’s two rooms doubt, Havana’s best international-standard
with bathrooms (one ensuite, one private hotel, with service and business facilities
but separate), fan and fridge for a giveaway on a par with top-ranking five-star facilities
CUC$30 per night. elsewhere in the Caribbean. Although the
fancy lobby and classily furnished rooms
Residencia Académica may lack the historical riches of the Haba-
Convento de Santa Clara Hostel $
guanex establishments, the ambience here is
(Map p58; %866-9327; Cuba No 610 btwn Luz & Sol; far from antiseptic. Bonus facilities include a
r per person CUC$25) Something of a novelty full-service business center, a rooftop swim-
for Havana, this run-down but charmingly ming pool/fitness center/Jacuzzi, an elegant
atmospheric old nunnery has been partially lobby bar, the celebrated El Paseo restau-
converted into a hostel to take in travelers. rant, plus excellent international telephone
Situated a stone’s throw from Plaza Vieja and internet links. Two of the bedrooms are
and priced cheaper than the surrounding wheelchair-accessible. In 2009 the Parque
casas particulares, it’s a tempting budget op- Central opened an even swankier new wing
tion if you don’t mind fairly spartan facilities across Calle Virtudes, connected to the rest
and possible room sharing. of the hotel by means of an underground
Hotel Marqués de tunnel. As well as state-of-the-art rooms, the
Prado Ameno Hotel $$$ addition includes its own luxurious restau-
(Map p58; %862-4127; cnr O’Reilly & Cuba; s/d rant, cafe and reception area.
incl breakfast CUC$100/160; ai) Connected
to the Hotel Florida by a tunnel, this new- Hotel Saratoga Hotel $$$
ish hotel offers similar facilities: thought- (Map p68; %868-1000; Paseo de Martí No 603; s/d
CUC$226/280; paiWs) One of Havana’s
newest, ritziest and most dramatic hotels,
the glittering Saratoga is an architectural Hotel Park View Hotel $$
work-of-art that stands imposingly at the (Map p68; Colón No 101; s/d CUC$52/86; ai) 87
intersection of Prado and Dragones with Built in 1928 with American money, the
fantastic views over toward the Capitolio. Park View’s reputation as the poor man’s
Sharp, if officious, service is a feature here, ‘Sevilla’ isn’t entirely justified. Its location
as are the extra-comfortable beds, power alone (within baseball-pitching distance
showers and a truly decadent rooftop swim- of the Museo de la Revolución) is enough
ming pool. Not surprisingly, there’s a price to consider this mint-green city charmer a

Havana S leeping
downtown
Downtown
for all this luxury. The Saratoga is Havana’s viable option. Chuck in friendly doormen,
most expensive hotel, and while its facilities modern furnishings (it’s Habaguanex-run)
impress, its service can’t quite match the and a small but perfectly poised 7th-floor
marginally cheaper Meliás. restaurant and you’ve got yourself a rare
midrange bargain.
Hotel Sevilla Hotel $$$

Havana sleeping
(%860-8560; Trocadero No 55 btwn Paseo de Martí Hotel Inglaterra Hotel $$$
& Agramonte; s/d incl breakfast CUC$150/210; (Map p68; %860-8595; Paseo de Martí No 416; s/d/
paiWs) Al Capone once hired out the tr CUC$84/120/168; pai) It’s José Martí’s
whole 6th floor, Graham Greene used it as one-time Havana hotel of choice and it’s still

S leeping
a setting for his novel Our Man in Havana playing on the fact – which says something
(room 501 to be exact) and the Mafia requi- about the current state of affairs. The Ingla-
sitioned it as operations centre for their pre- terra is a better place to hang out in than
revolutionary North American drugs racket. stay in, with its exquisite Moorish lobby
Now run in partnership with the French and crusty colonial interior easily outshin-
Sofitel group, the Moorish Sevilla still ing the lackluster and often viewless rooms.
drips with history as countless old black- The rooftop bar is a popular watering hole,
and-white photos of past guests (including and the downstairs foyer is a hive of bus-
Greene, Capone and Josephine Baker) will tling activity where there’s always live music
testify. Rooms are spacious and equipped blaring. Beware the streets outside, which
with comfortable beds, and the ostentatious are full of overzealous hustlers waiting to
lobby could have been ripped straight out of pounce.
the Alhambra.
Esther Cardoso Casa Particular $
Hotel Telégrafo Hotel $$$ (Map p68; %862-0401; esthercv2551@cubarte.
(Map p68; %861-1010, 861-4741; Paseo de Martí No cult.cu; Águila No 367 btwn Neptuno & San Miguel;
408; s/d CUC$100/160; aiW) A bold royal- r CUC$25) Esther is an actress (quite well-
blue charmer on the northwest corner of known in Havana), meaning that this little
Parque Central, this Habaguanex beauty jux- palace shines like an oasis in Centro Ha-
taposes old-style architectural features (the bana’s dilapidated desert, with tasteful de-
original building hails from 1888) with fu- cor, funky posters, spick-and-span baths and
turistic design flourishes that include shiny a spectacular roof terrace. Book early, as this
silver sofas, a huge winding central staircase place is well known.
and an amazingly intricate tile mosaic em-
Julio & Elsa Roque Casa Particular $
blazoned on the wall of the downstairs cafe.
(Map p68; %861-8027; julioroq@yahoo.com; Con-
The rooms are equally spiffy.
sulado No 162 btwn Colón & Trocadero; r CUC$20-
Hotel Lido Hotel $ 30) Julio’s a pediatrician and rents out two
(Map p68; %867-1102; Consulado No 210 btwn rooms in his friendly family house just a
Ánimas & Trocadero; s/d CUC$28/38; ai) A block from Prado. Taking advantage of new
travelers’ institution, the lackluster Lido is liberalized rental laws he has also recently
Havana’s unofficial backpacker nexus. It has opened Hostal Peregrino with three more
been popular for years for its central loca- rooms and an independent apartment in
tion and no-frills rooms with intermittent a building nearby (bookings through same
hot water and a gritty neighborhood feel. It number as the casa particular). Services in-
certainly ain’t fancy (that’s the point, isn’t clude airport pickup, internet, laundry and
it?), but it has a handy internet terminal cocktail bar. The accommodations are cozy
downstairs, breakfast on the roof and a help- and nicely furnished and both Julio and his
ful Cubanacán info desk. Then there’s the wife Elsa are super-helpful and a mine of lo-
price – cheaper than most of Havana’s casas. cal information. English is spoken.
 Hotel Deauville Hotel $$ lonial house with tile floors, soaring ceilings
88 (Map p68; %866-8812; Av de Italia No 1 cnr Malecón; and a quiet, helpful hostess.
s/d/tr CUC$36/72/108; pas) The Deauville Niurka O Rey Casa Particular $
is housed in a kitschy seafront high-rise (Map p68; %863-0278; Águila No 206 btwn Áni-
that sharp-eyed Havana-watchers will rec- mas & Virtudes; r CUC$20-25) A sparkling blue
ognize from picturesque Malecón-at-sunset house with a slightly less sparkling but
postcards. But while the location might be adequate interior. One of the two rooms
postcard-perfect, the facilities inside this for- here comes with a private bathroom and
Havana D o wnto wn H avana

mer Mafia gambling den don’t quite match there’s parking close by.
up to the stellar views. Currently reborn in
Hotel Caribbean Hotel $
peach and red and already showing the ef-
(Map p68; %860-8233; Paseo de Martí No 164
fects of the corrosive sea water, the Deau-
btwn Colón & Refugio; s/d CUC$30/48; a) Cheap
ville’s handy facilities (money exchange and
but not always so cheerful, the Caribbean
car rental) and reasonably priced restaurant
offers aspiring Cuban renovators a lesson in
are ever popular with the mid-priced tour-
how not to decorate. Rooms are a tad dark
circuit crowd.
and pokey. Bargain-basement seekers only.
Hotel Lincoln Hotel $
(Map p68; %862-8061; Av de Italia btwn Virtudes & Vedado
Ánimas; s/d CUC$24/38; a) This peeling nine- Casa 1932 Casa Particular $

story giant on busy Galiano (Av de Italia) (Map p72; %863-6203, 05-264-3858; www.casaha-
was the second-tallest building in Havana bana.net; Campanario 63 btwn San Lázaro & Lagu-
when it was built in 1926. Overshadowed by nas; r CUC$20-35; a) Prepare for an enchant-
taller opposition these days, it still offers 135 ing voyage back in time to art-deco Havana.
air-con rooms with bathroom and TV in an Everything you touch in this genteel house
atmosphere that is more 1950s than 2010s. is nigh on an antique: from the beds you’ll
Notoriety hit in 1958 when Castro’s 26th sleep on down to the cutlery you’ll use for
of July Movement kidnapped motor racing the innovative food. That’s not including, of
world champion Carlos Fangio from the course, the furnishings themselves, which in
lobby on the eve of the Cuban Grand Prix. A any other country would be in a museum –
small ‘museum’ on the 8th floor records the gambling chips from Cuba’s last casino and
event for posterity. Otherwise, the facilities an intriguing 1930s ashtray are highlights.
are best described as timeworn. But it’s the owner that’s the icing on the cake:
an interior designer and local history expert
Dulce Hostal – who is a mine of information on everything
Dulce María González Casa Particular $ from forgotten Cuban film to the history
(Map p68; %863-2506; Amistad No 220 btwn Nep- of pharmacy. He can arrange art-deco city
tuno & San Miguel; r CUC$20) The Dulce (sweet) tours, as well as impromptu salsa classes.
Hostal on Amistad (friendship) St sounds
like a good combination, and sweet and Villa Enano Rojo Casa Particular $

friendly is what you get in this beautiful co- (Map p72; %863-5081; Malecón No 557 btwn Leal-
tad & Escobar; r CUC$25) The name translates
as ‘Red Dwarf House,’ but you won’t find any
blushing short people here, just owners Lalo
Have Your Say
and Magda and a gracious upstairs apart-
Found a fantastic restaurant that ment with two rooms, one of which has a
you’re longing to share with the world? front-row seat to that most romantic of eve-
Disagree with our recommendations? ning cabarets – the Malecón.
Or just want to talk about your most
Martha Obregón Casa Particular $
recent trip?
(Map p72; %870-2095; marthaobregon@yahoo.com;
Whatever your reason, head to
Gervasio No 308 Altos btwn Neptuno & San Miguel;
lonelyplanet.com, where you can post
r CUC$20-25) A pleasant family home with
a review, ask or answer a question on
little balconies and small street views. You’ll
the Thorntree forum, comment on a
get a good sense of life in the crowded central
blog, or share your photos and tips on
quarter here, with its whistling tradesmen,
Groups. Or you can simply spend time
snippets of music and stickball-playing kids.
chatting with like-minded travelers. So
go on, have your say.
(Continued on page 97)
 ¡Viva Cuba!
Beaches »
Havana »
Karl Blackwell/Lonely planet images ©

Architecture »
Music & Dance »

Lady with fan and cigar, Havana

 Bruno Cossa/corbis
Beaches
There was a time when Cuba’s
beaches were points of
disembarkation for US armies, or
hallowed ground for revolutionaries
arriving to save the nation in
leaking leisure yachts. Today
they’re less confrontational places
where you’re far more likely to
bump into a relaxed sunbather than
a gun-toting soldier.

Playa Sirena
1 If loafing on a beach is your primary
holiday occupation, you’ve come to the
right place. Cayo Largo del Sur (p167), Cuba’s
sheltered ‘resort island’, has the widest and
most impressive stretches of sand in Cuba.

Playa Maguana
2 Sandy Maguana (p441), near Baracoa,
has retained its local feel. Arrive in a
vintage car, turn on the reggaetón music, and
pull out that case of cold Cuban beer.

Playa Pilar
3 Pilar Pilar (p308) on Cayo Guillermo
Shannon Nace/Lonely planet images ©

has all the necessary qualities of a five-

star beach: fine white sand, warm shallow
water, zero hotel interference and a tenuous
Hemingway connection – it’s named after the
American author’s famous fishing boat.

Playa Ancón
4 Naturally the beach is good, but Ancón
(p286) is as much about surroundings
as sand quality. A coral reef 500m offshore,
the crinkled Sierra del Escambray winking in
the distance and Trinidad, the colonial jewel,
less than 40 minutes away – by bike!

Playa Los Pinos

5 ‘Why am I the only one here?’ is the first
thought that strikes most visitors on see-
ing paradisiacal Playa Los Pinos (p324) for the
first time. Don’t ask; just enjoy.

Clockwise from top left

1. Playa Sirena, Cayo Largo del Sur 2. Playa Maguana
3. Playa Pilar, Cayo Guillermo 4. Sunset at Playa Ancón.
 imagebroker
Alexander Pöschel/photolibrary
 John Sylvester/photolibrary
Havana
Precious jewel of a vanquished
empire, heart and soul of a
struggling nation, former gambling
den to the American mafia, and
hallowed home to over two million
people: Havana is far more than
just a city. It’s a spectacle, an
ongoing story and a state of mind.

Restored Habana Vieja

1 It’s difficult to think of anywhere else in the
world where so much passion has been
channeled into rehabilitating a colonial city
center. Wander the streets of Habana Vieja
(p80) and absorb a heady mix of time-warped
history and austere modern reality.

Street Theater
2 Havana is a visceral place. The best sights
can’t be located on any map. To find them
you’ll need patience, spontaneity and a sturdy
pair of legs. Walk the streets and investigate.

Capitolio Nacional
3 The most iconic sight in Havana’s skyline
is the dome-roofed Capitolio (p66). It’s
Christian Aslund/Lonely planet images ©

an almost exact copy of the Capitol Building

in Washington DC, and a constant reminder of
the often fraught relationship between Cuba
and its northern neighbor.

Forts
4 Ringing Havana’s harbor, the city’s
strong forts (p64) have served various
functions through the centuries, not all of
them pleasant. Today you can view them with
less trepidation in their incarnations as naval
museums and lofty lookouts, and at colorful
cannon ceremonies.

Museums
5 Havana will educate you in subtle ways.
A cache of fine museums range from the
all-encompassing (the impressive Museo de
la Revolución, p70), to the esoteric (a coin
museum, a chocolate house, and even a
playing-card museum).

Clockwise from top left

1. Buildings undergoing restoration, Habana Vieja
2. Street performers, Habana Vieja 3. Vintage car in front
of the Capitolio Nacional, Habana Vieja
Rick Rudnicki/Lonely planet images ©
 Richard I’Anson/Lonely planet images ©
Architecture
If Cuba’s soul is hidden in its
music, then its architecture – in the
words of novelist Alejo Carpentier –
is ‘its music turned to stone.’
Running the gamut of styles, from
baroque to art deco, the country
is a museum of architectural
eclecticism, fortuitously spared
from developers’ bulldozers.

Remedios
1 A city of legends and mysteries, Remedios
(p259) is Cuba’s forgotten corner, a
colonial secret that glimmers subtly like an
undiscovered jewel. Sit with a mojito gazing
at the pretty town plaza and keep the news to
yourself. Shhhh…

Havana
2 Shaped by its colonial history and embel-
lished by myriad foreign influences from
as far afield as Italy and Morocco, the Cuban
capital (p77) combines mudéjar, baroque,
neoclassical, art nouveau, art deco and mod-
ernist architectural styles to form a visually
striking whole.
Frank Carter/Lonely planet images ©

Trinidad
3 Soporific Trinidad (p275) went to sleep in
1850 and never really woke up. Modern-
day travelers can roam through the perfectly
preserved mid-19th-century sugar town like
voyeurs from another era.

Cienfuegos
4 Known as the ‘Pearl of the South,’ Cien-
fuegos (p233) is Cuba’s most architec-
turally complete city; a love letter to French
neoclassicism wrapped picturesquely around
one of the Caribbean’s most beautiful natural
bays.

Camagüey
5 Classical blends with ecclesial in
Camagüey (p310) – a city of churches,
spires, towers and crosses. Then there are the
streets: a network of winding, sinuous thor-

Clockwise from top left

1. Old man gazing from a balcony, Remedios
2. Advertisement revealed on a restored facade, Havana
3. Museo Histórico Municipal (p277), Trinidad 4. Classic
American car outside a building in Cienfuegos
 Frank Carter/Lonely planet images ©
oughfares that take you to places unknown
(even to some locals).
Brent Winebrenner/Lonely planet images ©
 CEZARO DE LUCA/corbis
Music & Dance
Cuba is defined by its music and
dance, a complicated family tree of
genres, sub-genres and rhythmic
offshoots. The wider world may be
familiar with mambo, salsa and the
Buena Vista Social Club, but who,
beyond these shores, has heard of
nengon, kiribá, guanguancó, songo
and danzón-chá?

Nueva Trova
1 An improbable blend of Bob Dylan, Celia
Cruz, John Lennon, Víctor Jara and Joan
Manuel Serrat, nueva trova (p478) is the
Cuban Revolution’s musical soundtrack. Its
greatest exponents – Pablo Milanés and Car-
los Puebla – came from Granma province.

Rumba
2 A hypnotizing mix of thumping drums
and athletic dancing, rumba (p475) is
like going back to Africa without crossing the
Peter Turnley/Corbis

Atlantic. Yet, the music was first played in the

port cities of Havana and Matanzas still ach-
ing from the wounds of slavery.

Son
3 Take away son (p476) and you have no
mambo, salsa, timba and everything
thereafter. When the lilting strings of Spain
were first combined with the rugged drums of
Africa, the result was a Columbian moment of
musical discovery.

Changüí
4 In Santiago they call it son. Next door in
Guantánamo province they call it changüí
(p430); an eastern variation on a traditional
Cuban theme, born in provincial sugar refiner-
ies and influenced by slave culture.

Reggaetón
5 Love it or hate it, reggaetón (p478) is the
sound of the moment in Cuba. A mélange
of rap, hip-hop, reggae and dance, it emanates
from parks, squares, schoolyards and the
hard-nosed streets of its spiritual home –
Alamar.

Right
1. Pablo Milanés, one of the founders of nueva trova
2. Outdoor rumba concert, Havana
(Continued from page 88) on the Malecón) will satisfy the highest of
international expectations with its knowl- 97
La Casona Colonial – edgeable, consistent staff and modern,
José Díaz Casa Particular $
well-polished facilities. After a few weeks
(Map p72; %870-0489; Gervasio No 209 btwn Con- in the Cuban outback, you’ll feel like you’re
cordia & Virtudes; r CUC$25) A colonial house on a different planet here, although the
with a pleasant courtyard, this place has a ambience is more Houston than Havana.
shared bathroom but plenty of bed space For workaholics there are special ‘business-
and configurations. It’s located in the thick

Havana S leeping
downtown
Downtown
traveler rooms’ and 59 units have Jacuzzis.
of the Centro Habana action and has friend- On the lower levels gold-star facilities in-
ly owners and good access. clude a shopping arcade, one of Havana’s
Hotel Victoria Hotel $$
plushest gyms and the ever-popular Ha-
(Map p72; %833-3510; Calle 19 No 101; s/d incl bana Café (p111).

Havana sleeping
breakfast CUC$80/100; pais) A well- Hotel Habana Libre Hotel $$$
heeled and oft-overlooked Vedado option, (Map p72; %834-6100; Calle L btwn Calles 23 & 25;
the Victoria is a diminutive five-story ho- d/ste incl breakfast CUC$120/160; pais) Ha-
tel situated within spitting distance of the vana’s biggest and boldest hotel opened in

S leeping
larger and more expensive Nacional. De- March 1958 on the eve of Batista’s last waltz.
luxe and compact, though (due to its size) Once part of the Hilton chain, in January
invariably full, this venerable Gran Caribe 1959 it was commandeered by Castro’s reb-
establishment housed in an attractive neo- els, who put their boots over all the plush
classical building dating from 1928 contains furnishings and turned it into their tempo-
a swimming pool, a bar and a small shop. A rary HQ (Castro effectively ran the country
sturdy midrange accommodation option (if from a suite on one of the upper floors).
you can get in). Now managed by Spain’s Meliá chain as an
Hotel Nacional Hotel $$$
urban Tryp Hotel, this skyline-hogging giant
(Map p72; %836-3564; cnr Calles O & 21; s/d/tr has all 574 rooms kitted out to international
CUC$120/170/238; paiWs) The cherry on standard, though the lackluster furnishings
the cake of Cuban hotels and a flagship of could do with a makeover. The tour desks in
the government-run Gran Caribe chain, the the lobby are helpful for out-of-town excur-
neoclassical/neocolonial/art deco (let’s call sions and the 25th-floor Cabaret Turquino
it eclectic) Hotel Nacional is as much a city (p112) is a city institution.
monument as it is an international accom- Hotel Riviera Hotel $$$
modation option. Even if you haven’t got (Map p72; %836-4051; cnr Paseo & Malecón; s/d
the money to stay here, chances are you’ll incl breakfast CUC$63/106; pais) Meyer
find yourself sipping at least one minty mo- Lansky’s magnificent Vegas-style palace has
jito in its exquisite ocean-side bar. Steeped leapt back into fashion with its gloriously
in history and furnished with rooms with retro lobby almost unchanged since 1957
plaques that advertise details of illustri- (when it was the height of modernity). It
ous past occupants, this towering Havana isn’t hard to imagine all the old Mafia hoods
landmark sports two swimming pools, a congregating here with their Cohiba cigars
sweeping manicured lawn, a couple of lavish and chauffer-driven Chevrolets parked
restaurants and its own top-class nighttime outside. The trouble for modern-day visi-
cabaret, the Parisién (p111). While the rooms tors are the rooms (there are 354 of them),
might lack some of the fancy gadgets of de- which, though luxurious 50 years ago, are
luxe Varadero, the ostentatious communal now looking a little rough around the edges
areas and the erstwhile ghosts of Winston and struggle to justify their top-end price
Churchill, Frank Sinatra, Lucky Luciano and tag. You can dampen the dreariness in the
Errol Flynn that haunt the Moorish lobby fabulous ’50s-style pool, the good smattering
make for a fascinating and unforgettable of restaurants or the legendary Copa Room
experience. cabaret (p112), which is far cheaper than
Hotel Meliá Cohiba Hotel $$$
Tropicana. The location on a wild and wave-
(Map p72; %833-3636; Paseo btwn Calles 1 & 3; lashed section of the Malecón is spectacular,
r CUC$150/200; paiWs) Royally profes- although a good bus or taxi ride from the
sional, this ocean-side concrete giant built Old Town.
in 1994 (it’s the only building from this era
 Hotel Presidente Hotel $$$ Manuel Martínez Casa Particular $
98 (Map p72; %55-18-01; cnr Calzada & Calle G; s/d (Map p72; %832-6713; Calle 21 No 4 apt 22 btwn
CUC$90/140; pais) Fully restored in Calles N & O; r CUC$30-35) There are 14 casas
2000, this art deco influenced hotel wouldn’t in this magnificent art deco building con-
be out of place on a street just off Times Sq structed in 1945 opposite the Hotel Nacio-
in New York. Built the same year as the Vic- nal, making it like a minihotel. A portera
toria (1928), the Presidente is similar but (door person) guards the communal entry
larger, with gruffer staff. Unless you’re a and can point you in the right direction.
Havana D o wnto wn H avana

walker or fancy getting some elbow exercise This one overlooks the hotel gardens, and
on Havana’s crowded bus system, the loca- is about as close as you can get to Cuba’s
tion can be awkward. famous five-star without having to pay the
five-star rates.
Marta Vitorte Casa Particular $
(Map p72; %832-6475; martavitorte@hotmail.com; Hotel St John’s Hotel $$
Calle G No 301 apt 14 btwn Calles 13 & 15; r CUC$35- (Map p72; %833-3740; Calle O No 216 btwn Calles
40) Marta has lived in this sinuous apart- 23 & 25; s/d incl breakfast CUC$60/100; ais)
ment on Av de los Presidentes since 1960. A fair-to-middling Vedado option, the St
One look at the view and you’ll see why – John’s has a rooftop pool, clean bathrooms,
the glass-fronted wraparound terrace that reasonable beds and the ever-popular Pico
soaks up 270 degrees of Havana’s stunning Blanco nightclub (p111) on the 14th floor.
panorama makes it seem as if you’re stand- Ask for one of the western-facing rooms
ing atop the Martí monument. Not surpris- with killer views over the Malecón. If wall-
ingly, the two rooms are deluxe with lovely vibrating Cuban discos aren’t your thing,
furnishings, minibars and safes. Then there you might get more peace at the identically
are the breakfasts, the laundry, the parking priced Hotel Vedado half a block down the
space, the lift attendant… Get the drift? road.
Eddy Gutiérrez Bouza Casa Particular $ Hotel Vedado Hotel $$
(Map p72; %832-5207; Calle 21 No 408 btwn Calles (Map p72; %836-4072; Calle O No 244 btwn Calles
F & G; r CUC$30; pa) Eddy is a fantastic host 23 & 25; s/d CUC$65/80; ais) Ever popular
with a great knowledge of Havana, and his with the tour-bus crowd, the Hotel Vedado
huge colonial house has hosted many visitors is a tough sell. Granted, there’s an OK pool
over the years. It’s an inviting abode with a (rare in Havana), along with a passable res-
well-kept garden, a grand exterior and Ed- taurant and not unpleasant rooms. But the
dy’s 1974 Argentinian-made Dodge parked in patchy service, perennially noisy lobby and
the driveway. Guests are accommodated out almost total lack of character will leave you
back in comfortable quarters, and one room wondering if you wouldn’t have been better
comes equipped with a kitchenette. off staying in a local casa particular – for half
the price.
Casa Particular Sandélis Casa Particular $
(Map p72; %832-4422; Calle 21 No 4 apt 61 btwn Nelsy Alemán Machado Casa Particular $
Calles N & O; r CUC$30-35) Another casa in the (Map p72; %832-8467; Calle 25 No 361 apt 1 btwn
art-deco block overlooking the Hotel Nacio- Calles K & L; r CUC$25) Nelsy is one of two rent-
nal, this house on the 6th floor combines a ers in this house up by the university and
phenomenal location with the kindness and a stone’s throw from the Hotel Habana Li-
honesty of hosts Carolina and Lenin (who is a bre. Geographically, it’s one of Vedado’s bet-
talented painter). There is a variety of rooms ter options: it’s safe and secure, but close to
to choose from, all with ensuite bathrooms. most of the action.
Mercedes González Casa Particular $ Guillermina & Roberto
(Map p72; %832-5840; mercylupe@hotmail.com; Abreu Casa Particular $
Calle 21 No 360 apt 2A btwn Calles G & H; r CUC$30- (Map p72; %833-6401; Paseo No 126 apt 13A btwn
35) One of the most welcoming hosts in Ha- Calle 5 & Calzada; r CUC$30; a) On the 13th
vana, Mercedes comes highly recommended floor of a Vedado apartment block built in
by readers, fellow travelers, other casa own- 1958, this is another ‘view’ property with
ers, you name it. Her lovely art deco abode two rooms, private bathrooms and plush
is a classic Vedado apartment with two fine china furnishings. Hold your breath as you
rooms, an airy terrace and top-notch five- take the clunking elevator from the ground
star service. floor up.
Hotel Colina Hotel $ at that! The Templete’s specialty is fish, and
(Map p72; %836-4071; cnr Calles L & 27; s/d special it is: fresh, succulent and cooked 99
CUC$34/42; ai) The friendliest and least simply without any of the pretensions so
fussy of Vedado’s cheaper options, the rampant in celebrity chef-obsessed America.
80-room Colina is situated directly out- Sure, it’s a little caro (expensive), but it’s
side the university and is a good choice if worth every last centivo.
you’re here for a Spanish course.
La Imprenta International $$$
Luis Suávez Fiandor Casa Particular $
(Map p58; Mercaderes No 208; hnoon-midnight)

Havana E ating
downtown
Downtown
(Map p72; %832-5213; Calle F No 510 Altos btwn This new Habaguanex restaurant has raised
Calles 21 & 23; r CUC$30) Welcome to another the bar for government-run places in the
clean, safe Vedado option with gracious Old Town, with previously unheard-of Cu-
hosts and two upstairs rooms with private ban innovations such as al dente pasta, cre-
bathrooms and a terrace overlooking the ative seafood medleys and a stash of decent

Havana eating
weathered Havana rooftops. wines. Service is equally impressive, buck-
Hotel Bruzón Hotel $ ing the trend of bored unmotivated waiters
(Map p72; %877-5684; Bruzón No 217 btwn Pozos of yore, and the resplendent interior is filled
Dulces & Av de la Independencia; s/d CUC$22/31; with memorabilia from the building’s previ-

E ating
a) There are only two reasons to stay ous incarnation as a printing works.
here: you’ve got an early bus to catch (the
terminal’s 400m away), or everywhere Restaurante la Dominica Italian $$

else is full. Otherwise, the claustrophobic (Map p58; O’Reilly No 108; hnoon-midnight) De-
rooms aren’t worth it. spite a tendency to be a little overgenerous
with the olive oil, La Dominica – with its
Basilia Pérez Castro Casa Particular $
wood-fired pizza oven and al dente pasta
(Map p72; %832-3953; bpcdt@hotmail.com; Calle – could quite legitimately stake a claim as
25 No 361 apt 7 Bajos btwn Calles K & L; r CUC$25) Havana’s finest Italian restaurant. Located
Basilia rents out two rooms with indepen- in an elegantly restored dining room with
dent entrances in the same house as Nelsy. alfresco seating on Calle O’Reilly, the menu
It’s a mellow scene and good value. offers Italy’s ‘usual suspects,’ augmented by
Melba Piñada Bermudez Casa Particular $ shrimp and lobster (CUC$10 to CUC$18).
(Map p72; %832-5929; lienafp@yahoo.com; Calle Professional house bands serenade diners
11 No 802 btwn Calles 2 & 4; r CUC$30) This with a slightly more eclectic set than the
100-year-old villa in a shady Vedado street obligatory Buena Vista Social Club staples.
would be a millionaire’s pad anywhere else.
But here in Havana, it’s a casa particular Restaurante la Paella Spanish $$

with two large rooms and decent meals (Map p58; cnr Oficios & Obrapía; hnoon-11pm)
Known for its paella (CUC$10), this place,
5 Eating attached to the Hostal Valencia, has an au-
thentic ambience and tries hard to emulate
Habana Vieja
its Spanish namesake (the birthplace of
Havana’s Old Town has the most consistent
Spain’s famous rice dish). Food can be vari-
stash of government-run restaurants in
able, but on a good day you’ll be scraping
Cuba, most of them competently operated
the rice off the bottom of your serving pan
by the City Historian’s agency, Habaguanex.
with relish.
Experimenting beyond the usual comida
criolla, you’ll find decent ethnic places here Mesón de la Flota Tapas $$
(eg Italian, Arabic and Chinese), albeit ones (Map p58; Mercaderes No 257 btwn Amargura &
run primarily by Cubans. Habana Vieja’s Brasil; s/d incl breakfast CUC$65/100) If Havana
paladares have been reduced to a handful of resembles any city, it’s Cádiz in Spain, and
legal places that compete enterprisingly with this nautically themed tapas bar/restaurant
the heavily promoted government big-shots. might have been transported from Cádiz’s
Barrio de Santa María, so potent is the atmo-
oRestaurante el sphere. Old-world tapas include garbanzos
Templete Seafood $$$ con chorizo (chickpeas with sausage), cala-
(Map p58; Av del Puerto No 12; meals CUC$15-20; mari and tortilla, but there are also more sub-
hnoon-11pm) Welcome to a rare Cuban breed: stantial seafood-biased platos principales
a restaurant that could compete with any- (main meals). For music lovers the real draw-
thing in Miami – and a government-run one card is the nightly tablaos (flamenco shows),
 100
Norberto Hernández: tour guide, agencia de viajes san
cristóbal, havana

Must Hear
Callejón de Hamel (p110) Go for live street rumba and an opportunity to meet the
street’s original artist, Salvador González Escalona.
Havana D o wnto wn H avana

Must See
Museo de Bellas Artes (p67) Don’t miss the Cuban displays in the building on Calle
Trocadero, which is laid out chronologically and includes many of the defining pieces of
Cuban art such as Gitana Tropical by Victor Manuel García Valdés.

Must do
Baseball You can go to Parque Central to hear the latest baseball chat at the Esquina
Caliente, or attend an Industriales game at the Estadio Latinoamericano (p113).

Hidden Secret
Circo Trompoloco (p130) This permanent big top in Playa uses methods based on for-
mer Soviet circuses, and its animal and human performers are excellent.

After Hours
El Gato Tuerto (p110) At the end of a hard day, I like to go to the ‘One-eyed Cat,’ where
there’s a bar, some tables, soothing bolero music and a good mix of Cubans and tourists.
Jazz Café (p110) This is another good spot for late-night drinks and jazz fusion music
from about 11pm onwards.

the quality of which could rival anything in the food is surprisingly good and plentiful,
Andalusia. Sit back and soak up the intan- and the prices economical.
gible spirit of duende (climactic moment in
a flamenco concert inspired by the fusion of Café del Oriente Caribbean, French $$$

music and dance). (Map p58; Oficios 112; mains CUC$20-27; hnoon-
11pm) Havana suddenly becomes posh when
Al Medina Arabic $$ you walk through the door at this choice
(Map p58; Oficios No 12 btwn Obrapía & Obispo; establishment on breezy Plaza de San Fran-
hnoon-midnight; v) Havana takes on the cisco de Asís. Smoked salmon, caviar (yes,
Middle East in this exotic restaurant, appro- caviar!), goose liver pâté, lobster thermidor,
priately situated in one of the city’s 17th-cen- steak au poivre, cheese plate and a glass of
tury mudéjar-style buildings. Tucked into a port. Plus service in a tux, no less. There’s
beautiful patio off Calle Oficios, Al Medina just one small problem: the price. But what
is where you can dine like a Moroccan sheik the hell?
on lamb couscous (CUC$10), chicken tagine
(CUC$5) and Lebanese sumac (CUC$8) with La Zaragozana Spanish $$

a spicy twist. It’s especially recommended (Map p58; Av de Bélgica btwn Obispo & Obrapía;
hnoon-midnight) Established in 1830, this is
for its voluminous vegetarian platter, which
comes with hummus, tabouleh, dolma, pilaf Havana’s oldest restaurant but a long way
and falafel. from being its best. The Spanish-themed
food – which includes the obligatory paella –
Café Lamparilla International $ would have kept Don Quixote happy, but the
(Map p58; Lamparilla btwn Mercaderes and San Ig- ambience, amid assorted Iberian flags and
nacio; hnoon-midnight) In this new place on memorabilia, can be a little gloomy.
Lamparilla, you can either sit outside on the
cobbled street, or enjoy the air-conditioned Paladar la Mulata del Sabor Paladar $$

refinement of the sinuous art deco bar. Most (Map p58; Sol No 153 btwn Cuba & San Ignacio;
people drop by for a beer or a cocktail, but meals CUC$10; hnoon-midnight) Delicious
smells emanating from the kitchen in this
hole-in-the-wall paladar have lured in many La Torre de Marfil Chinese $$
an off-track traveler disoriented after taking (Map p58; Mercaderes No 111 btwn Obispo & Obrapía; 101
a wrong turn out of Plaza Vieja. Thankfully, hnoon-10pm Mon-Thu, noon-midnight Fri-Sun)
La Mulata is an amiable hostess, and the Where have all the punters gone? China-
word-of-mouth reviews from budget travel- town, perhaps? You feel sorry for the Marfil.
ers are always good. Perfectly placed in Calle Mercaderes with
smiling wait staff and an inviting interior, it
Restaurante el Patio Caribbean $$
somehow always seems to be three-quarters
(Map p58; San Ignacio No 54; meals CUC$15-20;

Havana E ating
downtown
Downtown
empty. Brave the deserted interior and you’ll
hnoon-midnight) When the hustlers stay find that the chop suey and chow mein plates
away, El Patio is one of the most romantic – when they arrive – are fresh, crisp and huge.
settings on the planet: the mint stalks in
your mojito are pressed to perfection and Café Santo Domingo CafE, Bakery $
the band breaks spontaneously into your (Map p58; Obispo No 159 btwn San Ignacio & Mer-

Havana eating
favorite tune. This place – in the Plaza de caderes, Habana Vieja; h9am-9pm) Tucked away
la Catedral – must be experienced at night above Habana Vieja’s best bakery – and
alfresco, when the atmosphere is almost encased in one of its oldest buildings – this
otherworldly. The food doesn’t quite match laid-back cafe is aromatic and light on the

E ating
the setting. wallet. Check out the delicious fruit shakes,
huge sandwich especial, or smuggle some
Cafetería Torre la Vega Caribbean $
cakes upstairs to enjoy over a steaming cup
(Map p58; Obrapía No 114A btwn Mercaderes & of café con leche (coffee with warm milk).
Oficios; h9am-9pm) This is the flop-down
lunchtime place that everyone hits in the Paladar Moneda Cubana Paladar $$
middle of a sightseeing tour. It’s perfectly (Map p58; San Ignacio No 77; meals CUC$8-10;
placed in the middle of the Old Town, with hnoon-midnight) There’s a soccer obsession
tables spilling onto the street and into a little at this perfectly placed paladar just off Plaza
park opposite. Diners sit with their noses in de la Catedral that must be passed by every
guidebooks chomping on ‘spag bol,’ pizza, tourist in Cuba at some point. Underneath
chicken and sandwiches, none of it particu- the sporty regalia, a quartet of tables offers
larly expensive. chicken and pork dishes at very reasonable
prices (CUC$8 to CUC$10). Go on, contrib-
Hanoi International $
ute a few convertible pesos (convertibles) to
(Map p58; cnr Brasil & Bernaza; hnoon-11pm) The the spirit of private enterprise.
name might suggest solidarity with ‘com-
La Julia Paladar $$
munist’ Vietnam, but don’t get too excited
(Map p58; O’Reilly No 506A btwn Villegas & Av de
– you won’t find any Saigon-flavored spring
las Misiones; meals CUC$10; hnoon-midnight)
rolls here. Instead, what you get is straight-
It’s been around long enough to be called
up Creole cuisine, with a couple of fried-rice
an institution and has outlasted almost all
dishes thrown in to justify the (rather mis-
opposition. La Julia is an unfussy family-
leading) name. One of the only fully restored
run paladar in Calle O’Reilly that serves
buildings in untouristy Plaza del Cristo, the
Cuban comfort food.
Hanoi is a backpacker favorite, where the
foreign clientele usually has its communal Café de O’Reilly Cafe, Fast Food $
nose in a guidebook. (Map p58; O’Reilly No 203 btwn Cuba & San Igna-
cio, Habana Vieja; h11am-3am) Good old-fash-
La Mina Caribbean $$ ioned ‘spit and sawdust’ cafe selling drinks
(Map p58; Obispo No 109 btwn Oficios & Merca- and snacks. The bar is spread over two
deres; h24hr) A mediocre menu but a top- floors connected by a spiral staircase, with
class location, La Mina graces a scenic cor- most of the action taking place upstairs.
ner of Plaza de Armas, meaning every tourist
El Mercurio International $$
in Havana walks past it at some point. The
(Map p58; Plaza de San Francisco de Asís; h24hr)
food options – displayed on a stand in the
An elegant indoor-outdoor cafe/restau-
street outside and backed up by an army of
rant, with cappuccino machines, intimate
verbose waiters – include chicken, pork and
booths and waiters in black ties, that
prawns cooked in a variety of different ways,
serves cheap lunches (Cuban sandwich
but lack culinary panache. There’s a tempt-
for CUC$5) and more substantial dinners
ing Heladería (ice-cream parlor) around the
(lobster and steak tartar).
corner in Calle Oficios.
 Restaurante Puerto de Sagua Seafood $ little, but the leather/mahogany décor and
102 (Map p58; Av de Bélgica No 603; hnoon-mid- astoundingly delicious dishes (bank on lob-
night) This nautical-themed eating joint in ster in a Catalan sauce, garlic prawns with
Habana Vieja’s grittier southern quarter sautéed vegetables and an authentic Spanish
is characterized by its small porthole- paella) suggest otherwise. Portions are huge
style windows. It serves mostly seafood at and the service is attentive, and the prices,
reasonable prices. which start at around CUC$4 for chicken
and pork dishes, are mind-bogglingly cheap.
Parque Histórico Militar
Havana D o wnto wn H avana

Morro-Cabaña Restaurante Tien-Tan Chinese $$

(Map p68; Cuchillo No 17 btwn Rayo & San Nicolás;
oRestaurante la h11am-11pm) One of the Barrio Chino’s best
Divina Pastora International $$$
authentic Chinese restaurants, Tien-Tan (the
(Map p65; hnoon-11pm) Back below La Cabaña,
‘Temple of Heaven’) is run by a Chinese-Cu-
just beyond the Dársena de los Franceses and
ban couple and serves up an incredible 130
another battery of huge 18th-century can-
different dishes. With such complexity, you
nons, lies one of the big guns of Cuban cook-
might have thought that you would be in for
ing. Eschewing the iron rations of yore, La
a long wait and that the food would, at best,
Divina Pastora offers homemade pasta, sun-
be average. Thankfully, neither is the case.
dried tomatoes, pesto-doused vegetables and
Try chop suey with vegetables, or chicken
excellent seafood. To top it off, there are wait-
with cashew nuts and sit outside in action-
ers with savoir faire and a credible wine list.
packed Cuchillo, one of Havana’s most color-
Paladar Doña Carmela Caribbean $$ ful and fastest-growing ‘food streets.’
(Map p65; %863-6048; Calle B No 10; hevenings
Rancho Coquito Spanish, Caribbean $$
only) A private eating option that offers qual-
(Map p68; Malecón 107 btwn Genios & Crespo;
ity chicken and pork in a very pleasant alfres-
h6pm-midnight) At last, a decent restaurant
co setting (when it’s open). Makes for a good
on the Malecón. Run by the local Spanish
dinner before or after the cañonazo, but
Asturianas society, this inconspicuous place
check ahead, as opening times are sporadic.
boasts a balcony that overlooks Havana’s
Restaurante los Doce dreamy 8km sea drive (look for the waiter
Apóstoles Caribbean $$ posted outside) and is frequented mainly by
(Map p65; hnoon-11pm) Parts of the fortresses Cubans. Upstairs, the food is tasty and unbe-
have been converted into good restaurants lievably cheap. Paella goes for CUC$7, gar-
and atmospheric bars including this one banzos fritos (fried chickpeas) CUC$5, tor-
below El Morro. The restaurant is so named tilla CUC$3 and a decent portion of lobster
(doce means ‘12’) because of the battery of 12 pan-fried in butter for a giveaway CUC$8.
cannons atop its ramparts. The restaurant
Los Gijones Spanish, Caribbean $$
serves comida criolla, and it’s a better-than-
(Map p68; Paseo de Martí No 309; hnoon-mid-
average government-run kitchen with fair
night) Melancholy Mozart serenades you
prices.
here, causing you to weep helplessly into
Centro Habana your ropa vieja (CUC$5). Dry your eyes
Centro offers scanter fare than Habana Vie- and you’ll find that you’re in another Span-
ja, with some notable exceptions. Look out ish mutual-aid society, this time the Centro
for Spanish clubs run by the Centro Asturia- Asturiano, whose dark mahogany dining
no and dip into the restaurant strip on Calle room is frequented by a charming resident
Cuchillo in the Barrio Chino (Chinatown). violinist.
Pastelería Francesa Cafe, Patiserrie $
oLos Nardos Spanish, Caribbean $$
(Map p68; Parque Central No 411) This cafe has
(Map p68; Paseo de Martí No 563; hnoon-mid- all the ingredients of a Champs-Élysées
night) An open secret situated opposite the classic: a great location in Parque Central,
Capitolio, but easy to miss (look out for the waiters in waistcoats and delicate pastries
queue), Los Nardos is one of a handful of displayed in glass cases. But the authentic
semi-private Havana restaurants operated French flavor is diminished by stroppy staff
by the Spanish Asturianas society. Touted and the swarming jineteras who roll in with
in some quarters as one of the best eateries Hans from Hamburg or Marco from Milano
in the city, the dilapidated exterior promises for cigarettes and strong coffee.
Chi Tack Tong Chinese $$ downtown Vedado atop the skyline-hogging
(Map p68; Dragones No 356 btwn San Nicolás & Focsa building. A colossus of both modern- 103
Manrique; hnoon-midnight) Upstairs in Calle ist architecture and French/Cuban haute
Dragones, this place is famous for being cuisine, this lofty fine-dining extravaganza
one of the few cheap restaurants in Havana combines sweeping city views with a pro-
where you won’t hear the words ‘No hay’ (we gressive French-inspired menu that serves
don’t have it) when you place your order. The everything from artichokes to foie gras to
menu is a little limited, but portion sizes are tart almandine. The prices at CUC$30 per

Havana E ating
downtown
Downtown
huge. Box up your leftovers. main (and the rest!) are as distinctly non-
Cuban as the ingredients, but with this level
Café Neruda International $
of service, it’s probably worth it.
(Map p68; Malecón No 203 btwn Manrique & San
Nicolás; h11am-11pm) Barbecued Chilean ox, Paladar la Guarida International $$$
Nerudian skewer, Chilean turnover? Poor (Map p72; %866-9047; Concordia No 418 btwn

Havana eating
old Pablo Neruda would be turning in his Gervasio & Escobar; hnoon-3pm & 7pm-midnight)
grave if this weren’t such an inviting place Located on the top floor of a spectacularly
and a rare ray of light on the otherwise mil- dilapidated Havana tenement, La Guarida’s
dewed Malecón. Spend a poetic afternoon lofty reputation rests on its movie-location

E ating
watching the waves splash over the sea wall. setting (Fresa y chocolate was filmed in
Paladar Torressón Paladar $$ this building) and a clutch of swashbuck-
(Map p68; %861-7476; Malecón btwn Capdevila
ling newspaper reviews (including the New
& Genios; meals CUC$7-9; hnoon-midnight)
York Times and the Guardian). The food, as
Situated at the eastern end of the Malecón might be expected, is up there with Havana’s
with views over El Morro castle, the Tor- best, shoehorning its captivating blend of
ressón offers complete meals of meat or Nueva Cocina Cubana into dishes such as
fish from CUC$10 and stupendous views sea bass in a coconut reduction, and chicken
for free. with honey and lemon sauce. Reservations
required.
Paladar Doña Blanquita Paladar $$
(Map p68; Paseo de Martí No 158 btwn Colón & Paladar el Hurón Azul Paladar $$$
Refugio; meals CUC$7-9; hnoon-10pm) Over- (Map p72; %879-1691; Humboldt No 153; meals
looking the Prado boulevard, this is one CUC$15-20; hnoon-midnight Tue-Sun) This
of Centro Habana’s best-placed paladares, place is often touted as one of Havana’s
with a proper typewritten menu and best private restaurants, and although the
meat-biased mains plates in the CUC$7 to food might be tasty, the windowless interior
CUC$9 range. combined with the preponderance of after-
El Gran Dragón Chinese $
dinner smokers can leave your meal tast-
(Map p68; Cuchillo No 1; h11am-midnight; v)
ing more like nicotine than comida criolla.
First on the left as you enter Cuchillo from Nonetheless, the Hurón Azul (Blue Ferret)
Calle Zanja, this place offers wonton soup, boasts plenty of original food and is locally
chop suey, chow mein and fried rice and is famous for its adventurous smoked pork
a good place for vegetarians. served with a pineapple salsa. That said, it’s
not cheap, averaging CUC$15 a pop, plus a
Vedado 10% service charge added to every bill. Re-
Vedado’s once-splendid paladares are fight- serve ahead.
ing a losing battle against high rents and nit- Pain de París Cafe, Bakery $
picking government regulations. Although (Map p72; Calle 25 No 164 btwn Infanta & Calle O;
few new places open these days, there are h8am-midnight) With quite possibly the best
a handful of stalwart survivors that ex- cakes in Havana – including iced cinnamon
ist alongside a handful of OK government buns – this small chain does box-up cakes,
places. The Hotel Nacional and the Hotel cappuccinos, croissants and the odd savory
Habana Libre also maintain some good bars snack. If you’ve been ODing on paltry Cuban
and restaurants. desserts, or have hit a sugar low after a su-
per-light breakfast, get your 11am pick-me-
oLa Torre French, Caribbean $$$ up here. There’s another 24-hour branch
(Map p72; %838-3088; Edificio Focsa cnr Calles 17 on Línea, adjacent to the Trianón cinema.
& M) One of Havana’s tallest and most talk-
ed-about restaurants is perched high above
 104
Havana’s Spanish Clubs
Although largely invisible to contemporary visitors, Havana’s Spanish Clubs were once
powerful bastions of Iberian identity in Cuba and helped to integrate immigrant penin-
sulares (Cubans born in Spain) into daily life through the building of libraries, hospitals,
theaters and social centers. In doing so, they were responsible for constructing some of
the grandest buildings the city had ever seen, many of which still stand.
Havana D o wnto wn H avana

The first clubs took shape as mutual-aid societies in the 1870s and were nearly always
organized along Spanish regional lines, with various ‘Centros’ formed among separate
groups of immigrant Andalucians, Galicians, Canary Islanders, Catalans, Asturians and
Basques. As was often the case in Latin America, the greatest number of immigrants
tended to come from Spain’s poorer regions, namely Galicia and Asturias (Fidel Castro’s
father was an expat Gallego from Galicia), and it was these people that formed what
would become the largest and most powerful clubs.
The Centros were originally only open to peninsulares, who elected boards that pro-
moted mutual-aid features allowing members access to libraries, medical care, educa-
tion tools and – most importantly – a distinct cultural life that retained potent echoes of
the old Spain (music in the form of choral societies were particularly popular in Havana).
By the early 1900s Havana’s Gallego (Galician) and Asturiano societies both listed more
than 10,000 members, and the two clubs entered into an unofficial competition to see
who could build the grandest cultural center. The ‘race’ bequeathed Havana’s Parque
Central with two magnificent buildings: the Centro Gallego (1914), now the Gran Teatro
de Habana (p108); and the Centro Asturiano (1927), now part of the Museo Nacional
de Bellas Artes (p67). Both buildings are riots of early-20th-century eclecticism, with
tangible neobaroque and neoclassical influences.
The Revolution drastically curtailed the power of Havana’s Spanish clubs, but failed to
stamp them out completely. Still active today – and of interest to visitors – is the Asoci-
ación Canaria de Cuba (Map p68; Av de los Misiones No 258), which has a restaurant and
performance space; the Centro Andaluz (p82), which hosts sporadic flamenco shows;
and the Centro Vasco, which runs a bar and restaurant (see p105) in Vedado. Towering
above all, however, is the Centro Asturiano, whose formidable restaurants have gained
something of a cult following among in-the-know tourists for their atmospheric mahoga-
ny furnishings, excellent service and delicious but economical food.

Decameron Paladar, Italian $$$ Flor de Loto Chinese $$

(Map p72; %832-2444; Línea No 753 btwn Paseo (Map p72; Salud No 303 btwn Gervasio & Escobar)
& Calle 2; meals CUC$12-15; hnoon-midnight; v) Popularly considered to be Havana’s – and,
Ugly from the outside, but far prettier within, by definition, Cuba’s – best Chinese restau-
the Decameron is an intimate Italian-influ- rant, as the queues outside will testify. Cam-
enced restaurant where you can order from ouflaged beneath Centro Havana’s decaying
the varied menu with abandon. Veggie pizza, facades, it serves up extra-large portions of
lasagna bolognese, steak au poivre and a di- lobster, fried rice and sweet and sour sauce
vine calabaza soup – it’s all good. On top of in a frigidly air-conditioned interior.
that, there’s a decent wine selection and the
kitchen is sympathetic to vegetarians. Complejo Turístico 1830 International $$
(Map p124; Malecón No 1252; hnoon-10pm) One
El Gringo Viejo Paladar $$ of Havana’s most elegant restaurants, this
(Map p72; %831-1946; Calle 21 No 454 btwn Calles place is heavily touted, but gets mixed re-
E & F; hnoon-11pm) The Gringo offers a good views. Try the chicken in lemon and honey
atmosphere and large portions of invariably sauce, and stick around until after 10pm
brilliant food. Locals and visitors love it for when the kitchen closes and there’s live mu-
its speedy service, fine wine list and big por- sic and salsa dancing in the garden behind
tions of more adventurous plates, such as the restaurant.
smoked salmon with olives and Gouda, or
crabmeat in red sauce (CUC$10 to CUC$12).
Paladar los Amigos Paladar $$ La Rampa Diner $$
(Map p72; Calle M No 253; hnoon-midnight) (Map p72; Calle L btwn Calles 23 & 25; burgers 105
Paladar Los Amigos, situated in the back $CUC6-8; h24hr) The closest Havana gets to
of a prerevolutionary house on the corner an American diner is in the Hotel Ha-
of Calles M and 19 near the Hotel Victoria, bana Libre. Excellent salads, burgers and
serves good Cuban meals for CUC$10, in- milkshakes are served rather brusquely by
cluding side plates. It’s enthusiastically rec- busy waiters.
ommended by locals. Cafetería Sofía Fast Food $

Havana E ating
downtown
Downtown
Paladar Aries Paladar $$ (Map p72; Calle 23 No 202; h24hr) Late-night
(Map p72; Av Universidad No 456 Bajos btwn Calles hair-of-the-dog seekers meet annoyingly
J & K; hnoon-midnight) Traditional Cuban fare chirpy early risers at this 24-hour institu-
mixed with what are generously referred to as tion on La Rampa (Calle 23).
‘international dishes,’ this nicely decked-out, La Casona & 17 Caribbean $$

Havana eating
family-run place with occasional wandering (Map p72; Calle 17 btwn Calles M & N;h11am-
trovadores (traditional singers/songwriters) 10pm) Eclectic Vedado residence turned
is conveniently located behind the university. restaurant. Eat in the elegant dining room
or outside at the barbecue grill.

E ating
Café TV Fast Food $
(Map p72; cnr Calles N & 19; h10am-9pm) Hid- Restaurante Vegetariano
den in the bowels of Edificio Focsa, this TV- Carmelo Vegetarian $

themed cafe is a funky dinner/performance (Map p72; Calzada btwn Calles D & E; hnoon-
venue lauded by those in the know for its midnight Tue-Sun; v) Selling itself as a
cheap food and hilarious comedy nights. vegetarian restaurant, this place, opposite
If you’re willing to brave the frigid air-con the Teatro Amadeo Roldán, offers scant
and rather foreboding underground entry fare and legendary brusqueness. Prices are
tunnel, head here for fresh burgers, healthy in Cuban pesos.
salad, pasta and chicken Gordon Bleu. Tele-
Ice-Cream Parlors
visión Cubana is around the corner, hence
Havana has some good ice cream, available
the theme.
both in convertibles and pesos. Coppelia is
Trattoría Maraka’s Italian $$ the national chain – but its queues are long.
(Map p72; Calle 0 No 260 btwn Calles 23 & 25; Paleticas are popsicles (usually chocolate-
h10am-11pm) Don’t be put off by the cheap covered), while bocaditos are big, ice-cream
Formica tables and the pictorial map of Italy sandwiches (often handmade). Little mobile
on the wall. Real olive oil, parmesan and ice-cream machines selling the soft, whippy
mozzarella cheese, plus a wood-fired oven, stuff can appear anyplace anytime. Cones
mean that the pizza in this Vedado Italian are sold for a couple of pesos. The problem
trattoria is among the city’s best. Also on of- is getting them in your mouth before they
fer are Greek salad, tortellini with red sauce, melt. Here are some good parlors:
and spinach-stuffed cannelloni – mostly un- Bim Bom Ice cream $
der CUC$10. (Map p72; cnr Calle 23 & Infanta, Vedado) Phe-
nomenally creamy stuff in flavors like cof-
El Conejito caribbean $$
fee, condensed milk (sounds gross, tastes
(Map p72; Calle M No 206; hnoon-midnight)
great) and rum raisins; pay in convertibles.
A red-bricked Tudor-style mansion with
lederhosen-clad waiters that serves rabbit Coppelia Ice cream $

(CUC$8 and up); now that’s classic! If the (Map p72; cnr Calle 23 & L, Vedado) The original
conejo (rabbit) doesn’t grab you, try the and best.
chicken, beef, fish or lobster. The rather sur-
Takeout
real ambience is lightened somewhat by a
There are some great peso places sprinkled
resident pianist serenading romantically in
about, though few have names; look for the
the background.
streets. Some of the most outstanding peso
Centro Vasco Spanish, Caribbean $
pizza is at San Rafael just off Infanta (look
(Map p72; Calle 3 cnr Calle 4; hnoon-10pm) This
for the lines). Av de la Italia (Galiano to
outpost of Havana’s Basque society, near anyone who lives there) also has some holes-
the Hotel Meliá Cohiba, has a decent res- in-the-wall. Also try around Calles H and 17,
taurant and a 24-hour bar/cafe. The food where there are clusters of peso stalls and
has Spanish inflections.
 Calle 21 between Calles 4 and 6; this area is Vedado
106 close to the hospital, so there’s great variety Supermercado Meridiano Supermarket $
and long hours. (Map p72; Galerías de Paseo, cnr Calle 1 & Paseo;
Cajitas (take-out meals in cardboard h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sun) Across the
boxes) usually cost about CUC$1. Some boxes street from the Hotel Meliá Cohiba, this su-
have cutout spoons on the lid, but most don’t, permarket has a good wine and liquor selec-
so you’ll have to supply your own fork (or use tion, lots of yogurt, cheese and crisps.
part of the box itself as a shovel). You can usu- There are numerous agropecuarios:
Havana D o wnto wn H avana

ally buy cajitas at agropecuarios (vegetable Agropecuario 17 & K Market $

markets); Chinatown is known for its cajitas. (Map p72; cnr Calles 17 & K) A ‘capped’ market
Cubans haven’t really caught onto the idea with cheap prices, but limited selection.
of coffee ‘to go,’ so you’ll get baffled looks if Agropecuario 19 & A Market $
you ask for a coffee para llevar (takeout). (Map p72; Calle 19 btwn Calles A & B) Havana’s
Self-Catering ‘gourmet’ market, with cauliflower, fresh
Habana Vieja herbs and rarer produce during shoulder
Café Santo Domingo Bakery $ seasons.
(Map p58; Obispo No 159 btwn San Ignacio & Mer- Agropecuario 21 & J Market $
caderes; h9am-9pm) Some of the best bread (Map p72; cnr Calles 21 & J) Good selection,
and pastries can be procured at this place, including potted plants.
downstairs underneath the cafe.
Organopónico Plaza Market $
Harris Brothers Supermarket $ (Map p72; cnr Av de Colón & Bellavista) One of
(Map p58; O’Reilly No 526; h9am-9pm Mon-Sat) Havana’s biggest organic farms with a
The best-stocked grocery store in Habana retail market.
Vieja sells everything from fresh pastries to
baby’s nappies. It’s just off Parque Central 6 Drinking
and is open until late. Habana Vieja

Agropecuario Sol Market $ o Taberna de la Muralla Bar, Restaurant

(Map p58; Sol btwn Habana & Compostela) Vieja’s (Map p58; cnr San Ignacio & Muralla; h11am-mid-
local farmers’ market. night) Havana’s only microbrewery is situ-
ated on a boisterous corner of Plaza Vieja.
Centro Habana
Set up by an Austrian company in 2004, it
Supermercado Isla sells smooth, cold homemade beer at sturdy
de Cuba Supermarket $ wooden benches set up outside on the cob-
(Map p68; cnr Máximo Gómez & Factoría; h10am- bles or indoors in an atmospheric beer hall.
6pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun) On the southern Get a group together and you’ll get the am-
side of Parque de la Fraternidad, with ber nectar in a tall plastic tube drawn from
yogurt, cereals, pasta etc. You have to a tap at the bottom. There’s also an outside
check your bag outside, to the right of the grill. Round the corner is the new Factoria,
entrance. which specializes in non-alcoholic Malta
Almacenes Ultra Supermarket $ and is popular with Cubans.
(Map p68; Av Simón Bolívar No 109; h9am-6pm
Museo del Chocolate Chocolatier $
Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun) A decent supermar-
(Map p58; cnr Amargura & Mercaderes; h9am-8pm)
ket in Centro Habana, at the corner of
Chocolate addicts beware, this quirky place
Rayo, near Av de Italia.
in the heart of Habana Vieja is a lethal dose
La Época Supermarket $ of chocolate, truffles and yet more chocolate
(Map p68; cnr Av de Italia & Neptuno; h9am-9pm (all made on the premises). Situated – with
Mon-Sat, 9am-noon Sun) A hard-currency de- no irony intended – in Calle Amargura (liter-
partment store with a supermarket in the ally: Bitterness Street), the sweet-toothed es-
basement. Check your bags outside before tablishment is more a cafe than a museum,
entering this epic Havana emporium. with a small cluster of marble tables set amid
Mercado Agropecuario Egido Market $ a sugary mélange of chocolate parapherna-
(Map p68; Av de Bélgica btwn Corrales & lia. Not surprisingly, everything on the menu
Apodaca) For fresh produce hit this free- contains one all-pervading ingredient: have
enterprise market. it hot, cold, white, dark, rich or smooth – the
stuff is divine, whichever way you choose.
Café el Escorial Cafe $ El Floridita Bar, Restaurant
(Map p58; Mercaderes No 317 cnr Muralla; h9am- (Map p58; Obispo No 557; h11am-midnight) Pro- 107
9pm) Opening out onto Plaza Vieja and en- moting itself as the ‘cradle of the daiquirí,’ El
cased in a finely restored colonial mansion, Floridita was a favorite of expat Americans
there’s something definitively European long before Ernest Hemingway dropped by
about El Escorial. Among some of the best in the 1930s (hence the name, which means
caffeine infusions in the city served here are ‘little Florida’). A bartender named Constan-
café cubano, café con leche, frappé, coffee te Ribalaigua invented the daiquirí soon af-

Havana D rinHavana
downtown
Downtown
liquor and even daiquirí de café. There’s ter WWI, but it was Hemingway who popu-
also a sweet selection of delicate cakes and larized it, and ultimately the bar christened
pastries. a drink in his honor: the Papa Hemingway
Special (basically, a daiquirí made with
La Bodeguita del Medio Bar, Restaurant
grapefruit juice). His record – legend has it –
(Map p58; Empedrado No 207; h11am-midnight) was 13 doubles in one sitting. Any attempt to
Made famous thanks to the rum-swilling

k ing
equal it at the current prices (CUC$7 and up
exploits of Ernest Hemingway (who by for a shot) will cost you a small fortune – and
association instantly sends the prices a huge hangover.
soaring), this is Havana’s most celebrated

D rin k ing
drin
bar. A visit here has become de rigueur La Lluvia de Oro Bar
for tourists who haven’t yet cottoned on (Map p58; Obispo No 316; h24hr) It’s on Obispo
to the fact that the mojitos are better and and there’s always live music belting through
(far) cheaper elsewhere. Past visitors have the doorway – so it’s always crowded. But
included Salvador Allende, Fidel Castro, with a higher-than-average jinetero/jinetera
Nicolás Guillén, Harry Belafonte and Nat to tourist ratio, it might not be your most in-
King Cole, all of whom have left their au- timate introduction to Havana. Small snacks
tographs on La Bodeguita’s wall – along are available and the musician’s ‘hat’ comes
with thousands of others (save for the round every three songs.
big names, the walls are repainted every
few months). These days the clientele is La Dichosa Bar

less luminous, with package tourists from (Map p58; cnr Obispo & Compostela; h10am-mid-
Varadero outnumbering beatnik bohemi- night) It’s hard to miss the rowdy La Dichosa
ans. Purists claim the CUC$4 mojitos have on busy Calle Obispo. Small and cramped
lost their Hemingway-esque shine in re- with at least half the space given over to the
cent years. Only one way to find out… resident band, this is a good place to stop for
a quick drink.
Bar Dos Hermanos Bar
(Map p58; San Pedro No 304; h24hr) Despite El Reloj Cuervo y Sobrinos Cafe $

its erstwhile Hemingway connections, this (Map p58; Oficios cnr Muralla; h10am-7pm Mon-
bar has (so far) managed to remain off the Sat, 10am-1pm Sun) A new art deco coffee bar
standard Havana tourist itinerary. Out of set in a restored watch shop that belonged to
the way and a little seedy, it was a favorite an erstwhile Swiss watchmaker in the 1880s.
watering hole of Spanish poet Federico Gar- Time your air-conditioned sightseeing break
cía Lorca during a three-month stopover in over a strong café cubano.
1930. With its long wooden bar and salty Café Taberna Bar, Restaurant
seafaring atmosphere, it can’t have changed (Map p58; cnr Brasil & Mercaderes) Founded in
much since. 1772 and still glowing after a recent 21st-
Café de las Infusiones Cafe
century makeover, this drinking and eating
(Map p58; Mercaderes btwn Obispo & Obrapía; establishment is a great place to prop up the
h8am-11pm) Wedged into Calle Mercaderes,
(impressive) bar and sink a few cocktails be-
this recently restored Habaguanex coffee fore dinner. The music – which gets swing-
house is a caffeine addict’s heaven; it boasts ing around 8pm – doffs its cap, more often
a wonderful resident pianist, too. It’s fan- than not, to one-time resident mambo king
cier than your average Cuban coffee bar and Benny Moré. Skip the food.
more comprehensive than the Escorial. You Café París Bar
can order more than a dozen different cup- (Map p58; Obispo No 202; h24hr) Things
pas here, including Irish coffee, punch cof- never stand still at this rough-hewn Ha-
fee, mocha and cappuccino. bana Vieja dive-bar, known for its live
music and gregarious tourist-heavy atmo-
 sphere. On good nights, the rum flows and Bar-Club Imágenes Bar
108 spontaneous dancing erupts. (Map p72; Calzada No 602; h9pm-5am) This
Monserrate Bar Bar
upscale piano bar attracts something of an
(Map p58; Obrapía No 410) A couple of doors older crowd with its regular diet of boleros
down from El Floridita, Monserrate is a (ballads) and trova, though there are some-
Hemingway-free zone, meaning the dai- times comedy shows; check the schedule
quirís are half the price. posted outside. Affordable meals are avail-
able (minimum CUC$5).
El Baturro Bar
Havana D o wnto wn H avana

(Map p58; cnr Av de Bélgica & Merced; h11am- Parque Histórico Militar
11pm) In the long tradition of drinking Morro-Cabaña
houses situated next to train stations, El Bar el Polvorín Bar
Baturro is a rough-and-ready Spanish (Map p65; h10am-4am) Situated just below El
bistro with a long wooden bar and an all- Morro fort, this bar offers drinks and light
male drinking clientele. snacks on a patio overlooking the bay. It’s
surprisingly lively after dark.
Centro Habana
Prado No 12 Bar 3 Entertainment
(Map p68; Paseo de Martí No 12; hnoon-11pm) Habana Vieja
A slim flat-iron building on the corner of Nightlife exists in the Old Town, but it’s
Prado and San Lázaro that serves drinks more of the live-music-in-a-bar variety.
and simple snacks, Prado 12 still resembles Don’t forget the excellent flamenco shows in
Havana in a 1950s time-warp. Soak up the Mesón de la Flota (p99) and – occasionally –
atmosphere of this amazing city here after a Hostal Valencia (p85).
sunset stroll along the Malecón.
Basílica Menor de San Francisco
Prado & Animas Bar de Asís Classical Music
(Map p68; Paseo de Martí cnr Ánimas No 12; h9am- (Map p58; Plaza de San Francisco de Asís, Habana
9pm) Another good old-fashioned Prado Vieja; tickets CUC$3-8; hfrom 6pm Thu-Sat) Plaza
place with a time-warped ’50s feel. The cafe de San Francisco de Asís’ glorious church,
also serves simple food and coffee, but it’s which dates from 1738, has been reincar-
best for a beer, sitting at one of the window nated as a 21st-century museum and concert
tables beneath the baseball memorabilia (in- hall. The old nave hosts choral and chamber
cluding a picture of a pelota-playing Fidel). music two to three times a week (check the
schedule at the door) and the acoustics in-
Vedado
side are excellent. It’s best to bag your ticket
Café Literario del ‘G’ CafE, Bar
at least a day in advance.
(Map p72; Calle 23 btwn Av de los Presidentes &
Calle H) If Havana has a proverbial Left Bank, Fundación Alejo
this is it: a laid-back student hangout full Carpentier Cultural Center
of arty wall scribblings and coffee-quaffing (Map p58; Empedrado No 215, Habana Vieja; h8am-
intellectuals discussing the merits of Guil- 4pm Mon-Fri) Near the Plaza de la Catedral.
lén over Lorca. Relax in the airy front patio Check for cultural events at this baroque
among the green plants and dusty books former palace of the Condesa de la Reunión
and magazines (available to read, lend and (1820s) where Carpentier set his famous
buy), and keep an ear out for one of the regu- novel El Siglo de las Luces.
lar trova (traditional music), jazz and poetry
presentations. Centro Havana
Centro’s nightlife is edgier and more local
Café Fresa y Chocolate Cafe, Bar than Vedado’s.
(Map p72; Calle 23 btwn Calles 10 & 12; h9am-
11pm) No ice cream here, just movie memora- oGran Teatro de la Habana Theater
bilia. This is the HQ of the Cuban Film Insti- (Map p68; %861-3077; cnr Paseo de Martí & San
tute and a nexus for coffee-quaffing students Rafael; per person CUC$20; hbox office 9am-6pm
and art-house movie addicts. You can debate Mon-Sat, to 3pm Sun) The amazing neoba-
the merits of Almodóvar over Scorsese on roque theater across from Parque Central is
the pleasant patio before disappearing next the seat of the acclaimed Ballet Nacional de
door for a film preview. Cuba, founded in 1948 by Alicia Alonso. It is
also the home of the Cuban National Opera.
 Gay Havana 109

The Revolution had a rather ambiguous attitude toward homosexuality in its early days.
While the Stonewall riots were engulfing New York City, Cuban homosexuals were still be-
ing sent to re-education camps by a government that was dominated by macho, bearded
ex-guerrillas dressed in military fatigues.
But, since the 1990s, the tide has been turning, spearheaded somewhat ironically by
Fidel’s combative niece Mariela (the daughter of current president, Raúl Castro), the

Havana E ntertainment
downtown
Downtown
director of the Cuban National Center for Sex Education in Havana.
An important door was opened in 1993 with the release of the Oscar-nominated film
Fresa y chocolate, a tale of homosexual love between a young communist student and a
skeptical Havana artist. A decade later, gay characters hit the headlines again in a popu-
lar government-sponsored Cuban soap opera called La cara oculta de la luna (The Dark

Havana entertainment
Side of the Moon).
The unprecedented happened in June 2008 when the Cuban government passed a
law permitting free sex-change operations to qualifying citizens courtesy of the country’s
famously far-sighted health system.

E ntertainment
Though Cuba still has no ‘official’ gay clubs, there are plenty of places where a ‘gay
scene’ has taken root. Havana is the obvious focus, with the busy junction of Calles 23
and L in Vedado outside the Cine Yara serving as the main nighttime cruising spot. Other
meeting places include the Malecón below the Hotel Nacional and the beach at Boca
Ciega in Playas del Este.
Hang around at these places in the evening to get word of spontaneous gay parties
in private houses, or bigger shindigs in venues such as Parque Lenin. You can now also
enjoy gay film nights at the Icaic headquarters on the corner of Calles 23 and 12 and,
since 2009, an annual gay parade along Calle 23 in mid-May.

A theater since 1838, the building contains camper than other Havana cabarets and
the grandiose Teatro García Lorca, along the noise – rather annoyingly if you’re
with two smaller concert halls: the Sala Ale- watching the opera – sometimes filters
jo Carpentier and the Sala Ernesto Lecuono through into the Lorca auditorium next
– where art films are sometimes shown. For door. There’s a couples-only policy and a
upcoming events enquire at the ticket office. ‘no shorts/T-shirts’ dress code.
Backstage tours of the theater leave through-
out the day (CUC$2). Teatro América Theater
(Map p68; Av de Italia No 253 btwn Concordia & Nep-
La Casa de la Música tuno) Housed in a classic art deco rascacielo
Centro Habana Nightclub, live Music (skyscraper) on Galiano (Av de Italia), the
(Map p68; Av de Italia btwn Concordia & Neptuno; América seems to have changed little since
admission CUC$5-25) One of Cuba’s best and its theatrical heyday in the 1930s and ’40s.
most popular (check the queues) nightclubs It plays host to vaudeville variety, comedy,
and live-music venues. All the big names dance, jazz and salsa; shows are normally
play here, from Bamboleo to Los Van Van staged on Saturdays at 8:30pm and Sundays
– and you’ll pay peanuts to see them. Of the at 5pm. You can also enquire about dance
city’s two Casas de la Música, this Centro lessons here (p109).
Habana version is a little edgier than its Mi- Teatro Fausto Theater
ramar counterpart (some have complained (Map p68; Paseo de Martí No 201) Rightly re-
it’s too edgy), with big salsa bands and little nowned for its sidesplitting comedy shows,
space. Price varies depending on the band. Fausto is a streamlined art-deco theater
on Prado.
Cabaret Nacional Cabaret
(Map p68; San Rafael No 208; per couple CUC$10; Vedado
h9pm-2am) Across from Parque Central,
Although it may have lost is pre-revolution-
and barely noticeable below the Gran ary reputation as a ritzy casino quarter, Ve-
Teatro de La Habana, this subterranean dado is still the place for nightlife in Havana.
dance cellar has a show nightly at 11:30pm
if enough patrons are present. It’s a little
 El Hurón Azul live Music mances) One of the twin pillars of Havana’s
110 (Map p72; cnr Calles 17 & H) If you want to rub cultural life, the Teatro Nacional de Cuba on
shoulders with some socialist celebrities, Plaza de la Revolución is the modern rival to
hang out at Hurón Azul, the social club of the Gran Teatro in Centro Habana. Built in
the Unión Nacional de Escritores y Artistas the 1950s as part of Jean Forestier’s grand
de Cuba (Uneac; Union of Cuban Writers city expansion, the complex hosts landmark
and Artists), Cuba’s leading cultural insti- concerts, foreign theater troupes, La Col-
tution. Replete with priceless snippets of menita children’s company and the Ballet
Havana D o wnto wn H avana

Cuba’s under-the-radar cultural life, most Nacional de Cuba. The main hall, Sala Avel-
performances take place outside in the gar- laneda, stages big events such as musical
den. Wednesday is the Afro-Cuban rumba, concerts or plays by Shakespeare, while the
Saturday is authentic Cuban boleros, and smaller Sala Covarrubias along the back side
alternate Thursdays there’s jazz and trova. puts on a more daring program (the seating
You’ll never pay more than CUC$5. capacity of the two salas combined is 3300).
The 9th floor is a rehearsal and performance
Callejón de Hamel live music
space where the newest, most experimental
(Map p72; hfrom noon Sun) Aside from its funky
stuff happens. The ticket office is at the far
street murals and psychedelic art shops, the end of a separate single-story building be-
main reason to come to Havana’s high tem- side the main theater.
ple of Afro-Cuban culture is for the frenetic
rumba music that kicks off every Sunday at El Gato Tuerto live Music
around noon. For aficionados, this is about (Map p72; Calle O No 14 btwn Calles 17 & 19; drink
as raw and hypnotic as it gets, with inter- minimum CUC$5; hnoon-6am) Once the HQ
locking drum patterns and lengthy rhythmic of Havana’s alternative artistic and sexual
chants powerful enough to summon up the scene, the ‘one-eyed cat’ (as Gato Tuerto
spirit of the orishas (Santería deities). Due translates into English) is now a nexus for
to a liberal sprinkling of tourists these days, karaoke-crazy baby-boomers who come here
some argue that the Callejón has lost much to knock out rum-fuelled renditions of tra-
of its basic charm. Don’t believe them. This ditional Cuban boleros (ballads). It’s hidden
place can still deliver. just off the Malecón in a quirky two-story
house with turtles swimming in a front pool.
Jazz Café live music
The upper floor is taken up by a restaurant,
(Map p72; top floor, Galerías de Paseo, cnr Calle 1 &
while down below late-night revelers raise
Paseo; drink minimum CUC$10; hnoon-late) This
the roof in a chic nightclub.
upscale joint located improbably in a shop-
ping mall overlooking the Malecón is a kind Café Cantante Nightclub
of jazz supper club, with dinner tables and a (Map p72; %879-0710; cnr Paseo & Calle 39; admis-
decent menu. At night, the club swings into sion CUC$10; h9pm-5am Tue-Sat) Below the
action with live jazz, timba and, occasion- Teatro Nacional de Cuba (side entrance),
ally, straight-up salsa. It attracts plenty of this place is a hip disco that offers live salsa
big-name acts. music and dancing, as well as bar snacks
and food. The clientele is mainly ‘yummies’
Casa de la Amistad live Music
(young urban Marxist managers) and ageing
(Map p72; Paseo No 416 btwn Calles 17 & 19)
male tourists with their youthful Cuban girl-
Housed in a beautiful rose-colored mansion friends. The Café tends to get feistier than
on leafy Paseo, the Casa de la Amistad mixes the adjacent Piano Bar Delirio Habanero
traditional son sounds with suave Benny (p111). Musically, there are regular appear-
Moré music in a classic Italian Renaissance- ances from big-name singers such as Haila
style garden. Buena Vista Social Club lu- María Mompie. No shorts, T-shirts or hats
minary, Compay Segundo, was a regular may be worn, and no under-18s are allowed.
here before his death in 2003, and there is
a weekly ‘Chan Chan’ night in his honor. Teatro Amadeo Roldán theater
Other perks include a restaurant, a bar, a ci- (Map p72; %832-1168; cnr Calzada & Calle D; per
gar shop and the house itself – an Italianate person CUC$10) Constructed in 1922 and
masterpiece. burnt down by an arsonist in 1977, this won-
derfully decorative neoclassical theater was
Teatro Nacional de Cuba Theater
rebuilt in 1999 in the exact style of the origi-
(Map p72; %879-6011; cnr Paseo & Calle 39; per per-
nal. Named after the famous Cuban com-
son CUC$10; hbox office 9am-5pm & before perfor-
poser and the man responsible for bringing
Afro-Cuban influences into modern classical open ideas,’ while outsiders are bowled over
music, the theater is one of Havana’s grand- by its musical originality and artistic innova- 111
est with two different auditoriums. The Or- tion. Welcome to La Madriguera – home to
questa Sinfónica Nacional play in the 886- the Hermanos Saíz organization, the youth
seat Sala Amadeo Roldán, while soloists and wing of Uneac. This is where the pulse of
small groups are showcased in the 276-seat Cuba’s young musical innovators beats the
Sala García Caturla. strongest. Come here for arts, crafts, spon-
taneity and the three Rs: reggaetón (Cuban
Cabaret Parisién Cabaret

Havana E ntertainment
downtown
Downtown
hip-hop), rap and rumba.
(Map p72; %836-3564; cnr Calles 21 & O; admis-
sion CUC$35; h9pm) One rung down from Cabaret Las Vegas Nightclub
the Tropicana, in both price and quality, the (Map p72; Infanta No 104 btwn Calles 25 & 27; ad-
nightly Cabaret Parisién in the Hotel Na- mission CUC$5; h10pm-4am) Don’t get duped
cional is still well worth a look, especially if into thinking this is another Tropicana. On

Havana entertainment
you’re staying in or around Vedado. It’s the the contrary, Cabaret Las Vegas is a rough
usual mix of frills, feathers and semi-naked and seedy local music dive (with a midnight
women, but the choreography is first class show) where a little rum and a lot of No mo-
and the whole spectacle has excellent kitsch leste, por favor will help you withstand the

E ntertainment
value. overzealous entreaties of the hordes of ha-
ranguing jineteras.
Conjunto Folklórico Nacional
de Cuba live music Pico Blanco Nightclub
(Map p72; Calle 4 No 103 btwn Calzada & Calle 5; (Map p72; Calle O btwn Calles 23 & 25; admission
admission CUC$5; h3pm Sat) Founded in 1962, CUC$5-10; h9pm) An insanely popular night-
this high-energy ensemble specializes in club, the Pico Blanco is on the 14th floor of
Afro-Cuban dancing (all of the drummers the Hotel St John’s in Vedado and kicks off
are Santería priests). See them perform, and nightly at 9pm. The program can be hit or
dance along during the regular Sábado de miss. Some nights it’s karaoke and cheesy
Rumba at El Gran Palenque. This group also boleros; another it’s jamming with some
performs at Teatro Mella (p112). A major fes- rather famous Cuban musicians.
tival called FolkCuba unfolds here biannu-
ally during the second half of January. Casa de la Cultura Centro live Music
(Map p72; Salvador Allende No 720 btwn Soledad &
Casa del Alba Cultural live Music Oquendo) Yes, Havana has one of these vener-
(Map p72; Línea btwn Calles C & D) This new able establishments where the music veers
venue was designed to strengthen cultural towards the traditional. Check the hand-
solidarity between the ALBA nations (Cuba, written posters on the board outside.
Venezuela, Bolivia, Ecuador, Nicaragua), but
in reality it hosts a variety of artistic and mu- Piano Bar Delirio Habanero Nightclub

sic-based shows and expos. It was opened in (Map p72; cnr Paseo & Calle 39; admission CUC$5;
hfrom 6pm Tue-Sun) This suave lounge
December 2009 with Raúl Castro, Daniel
Ortega and Hugo Chávez in attendance. upstairs in the Teatro Nacional de Cuba
hosts everything from young trovadores
Jazz Club la Zorra y El Cuervo live music to smooth, improvised jazz. The deep red
(Map p72; cnr Calles 23 & O; admission CUC$5-10; couches abut a wall of glass overlooking
h10pm) Havana’s most famous Jazz Club the Plaza de la Revolución – it’s stunning
is La Zorra y El Cuervo (the vixen and the at night with the Martí Memorial alluringly
crow) on La Rampa, which opens its doors backlit. Come up for air here when the ad-
nightly at 10pm to long lines of committed joining Café Cantante nightclub gets too hot.
music fiends. Enter through a red English
phonebox and descend into a cramped, Habana Café Nightclub, Cabaret

smoky basement. The freestyle jazz here is (Map p72; Paseo btwn Calles 1 & 3; admission
second to none, and in the past the club has CUC$10; hfrom 9:30pm) A hip and trendy
hosted such big names as Chucho Valdés nightclub cum cabaret show at the Hotel
and George Benson. Meliá Cohiba laid out in 1950s American
style. After 1am the tables are cleared and
La Madriguera live music the place rocks to ‘international music’ until
(Map p72; cnr Salvador Allende & Luaces; admission the cock crows.
5-10 pesos) Locals bill it as a ‘hidden place for
 Copa Room Cabaret Casa’s annual literary award is one of the
112 (Map p72; %836-4051; cnr Paseo & Malecón; ad- Spanish-speaking world’s most prestigious.
mission CUC$20; h9pm) Doormen in tuxes Pick up a schedule of weekly events in the
and an atmosphere that’s pure 1950s retro library.
make the refurbished Copa Room in Meyer
Lansky’s Hotel Riviera look like a nostalgic Sala Teatro el Sótano Theater

walk through The Godfather: Part II. (Map p72; Calle K No 514 btwn Calles 25 & 27;
h5-8:30pm Fri & Sat, 3-5pm Sun) If you un-
Teatro Mella Theater derstand Spanish, it’s well worth attending
Havana D o wnto wn H avana

(Map p72; Línea No 657 btwn Calles A & B) Occupy- some of the cutting-edge contemporary
ing the site of the old Rodi Cinema on Línea, theater that’s a staple of Grupo Teatro Rita
the Teatro Mella offers one of Havana’s most Montaner at this venue near the Habana
comprehensive programs, including an in- Libre.
ternational ballet festival, comedy shows,
Café Teatro Brecht Theater
theater, dance and intermittent performanc-
(Map p72; cnr Calles 13 & I) Varied perfor-
es from the famous Conjunto Folklórico
mances take place. Your best bet is
Nacional. If you have kids, come to the chil-
10:30pm on a Saturday (tickets go on sale
dren’s show Sunday at 11am.
one hour before the performance).
Sala Teatro Hubert de Blanck Theater Cabaret Turquino Cabaret
(Map p72; Calzada No 657 btwn Calles A & B) This (Map p72; Calle L btwn Calles 23 & 25, Vedado;
theater is named for the founder of Havana’s admission CUC$15; hfrom 10pm) Spectacular
first conservatory of music (1885). The shows in a spectacular setting on the 25th
Teatro Estudio based here is Cuba’s leading floor of the Hotel Habana Libre.
theater company. You can usually see plays
Teatro Nacional
in Spanish on Saturday at 8:30pm and on
de Guiñol Theater
Sunday at 7pm. Tickets are sold just prior to
(Map p72; Calle M btwn Calles 17 & 19) This
the performance.
venue has quality puppet shows and chil-
Instituto Cubano de dren’s theater.
Amistad con los Pueblos Cultural Center Club la Red Nightclub
(ICAP; Map p72; %830-3114; Paseo No 416 btwn (Map p72; cnr Calles 19 & L; admission CUC$3-5)
Calles 17 & 19, Vedado; h11am-11pm) Rocking Mixed convertible peso disco in Vedado.
cultural and musical events in an elegant
Karachi Club Nightclub
mansion (1926); there’s also a restaurant,
(Map p72; cnr Calles 17 & K; admission CUC$3-5;
bar and cigar shop.
h10pm-5am) Ferociously caliente (hot).
Casa de las Américas Cultural Center Discoteca Amanecer Nightclub
(Map p72; %838-2706; cnr Calles 3 & G, Vedado) (Map p72; Calle 15 No 12 btwn Calles N & O;
Powerhouse of Cuban and Latin American admission CUC$3-5; h10pm-4am) Fun if your
culture, with conferences, exhibitions, a budget is blown.
gallery, book launches and concerts. The

Art Talk
To see a different side of Havana, home in on the Centro Cultural Cinematográfico
(Map p72; Calle 23 btwn Calles 10 & 12) in Vedado, the HQ of the Instituto Cubano del Arte e
Industria Cinematográficos (Icaic) and a hive of cutting-edge creativity. The center hosts
film premieres, discussion nights, art expos and live music, and is home to Havana’s best
DVD movie outlet. The adjacent Café Fresa y Chocolate (p108) is a great place to get
acquainted with the Icaic’s movers and shakers, especially on Wednesday nights when
there’s an excellent live clarinet quartet. Look out in particular for El Último Jueves de
Cada Mes (The Last Thursday of Each Month) an interactive debate hosted by a small
panel of academics, intellectuals and experts from the arts magazine Temas. Respectful
but enthusiastic public audiences discuss everything from politics to TV soap operas and
offer a fascinating insight into the parameters of public debate in a supposedly totalitar-
ian society. Admission is free and the debates are in Spanish.
Club Tropical Nightclub Cine Yara Cinema
(Map p72; cnr Línea & Calle F; h9pm-2am) As (Map p72; cnr Calles 23 & L, Vedado) One big 113
with all clubs, late night Friday and Satur- screen and two video salas (cinemas) here
day are best here. at Havana’s most famous cinema. The
venue for many a hot date.
Cinemas
Cinecito Cinema
There are about 200 cinemas in Havana.
(Map p68; San Rafael No 68, Centro Havana; c)
Most have several screenings daily, and ev-
Films for kids behind the Hotel Inglaterra.
ery theater posts the Cartelera Icaic, which

Havana S h oHavana
downtown
Downtown
There’s another one next to Cine Chaplín
lists show times for the entire city. Tickets
on Calles 23 & 12.
are usually CUC$2; queue early. Hundreds
of movies are screened throughout Havana Sport
during the Festival Internacional del Nuevo Estadio Latinoamericano Sport
Cine Latinoamericano in late November/ear- (Map p 70; Zequiera No 312, Vedado) From Octo-

pping sh
ly December. Schedules are published daily ber to April, this 58,000-seat baseball stadi-
in the Diario del Festival, available in the um in Cerro is home to Los Industriales and
morning at big theaters and the Hotel Na- Los Metropolitanos (they alternate home
cional. Here’s a list of the best movie houses:

S h o pping
fixtures). Entry is a few pesos (but foreign-
Cine Infanta Cinema ers are charged CUC$2). Games are 7:30pm
(Map p72; Infanta No 357, Centro Havana) Newly Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday, and
renovated Infanta is possibly Havana’s 1:30pm Saturday and Sunday. The benches
plushest cinema. It’s an important venue are cement – painful after nine innings.
during the International Film Festival.
Ciudad Deportiva Sport
Cine Actualidades Cinema (cnr Av de la Independencia & Vía Blanca, Vedado;
(Map p68; Av de las Misiones No 262 btwn Nep- admission 5 pesos) ‘Sport City’ is Cuba’s pre-
tuno & Virtudes, Centro Havana) Timeworn mier sports training center and big basket-
place centrally located behind the Hotel ball, volleyball, boxing and track contests
Plaza. happen at the coliseum here. The P-2 metro
Cine Charles Chaplín Cinema bus from the corner of Línea & Av de los
(Map p72; Calle 23 No 1157 btwn Calles 10 & 12, Presidentes (Calle G) stops across the street.
Vedado) An art-house cinema adjacent to Sala Polivalente Ramón Fonst Sport
the Icaic HQ. Don’t miss the poster gallery (Map p72; Av de la Independencia, Vedado; admis-
of great Cuban classic films next door or sion 1 peso) Basketball and volleyball games
the movie grapevine that is the Café Fresa are held at this tatty-looking stadium
y Chocolate opposite. opposite the main bus station.
Cine la Rampa Cinema Kid Chocolate Sport
(Map p72; Calle 23 No 111, Vedado) De Niro sea- (Map p68; Paseo de Martí, Centro Habana) A
sons, French classics, film festivals – catch boxing club directly opposite the Capito-
them all at this Vedado staple, which lio, which usually hosts matches on Friday
houses the Cuban film archive. at 7pm.
Cine Payret Cinema
(Map p68; Paseo de Martí No 505, Centro Havana) 7 Shopping
Opposite the Capitolio, this is Centro Ha- Shopping isn’t Havana’s big draw – this, af-
bana’s largest and most luxurious cinema, ter all, is a city where disposable income is
erected in 1878. Plenty of American movies something of an oxymoron. That said, there
play here. are some decent outlets for travelers and
Cine Riviera Cinema
tourists, particularly if you’re after the stan-
(Map p72; Calle 23 No 507 btwn Calles G & H, dard Cuban shopping triumvirate of rum,
Vedado) Big pop, rock and sometimes rap cigars and coffee. Art is another lucrative
concerts happen here. The movies are field. Havana’s art scene is cutting edge and
a mix of Latin American, European and ever changing, and collectors, browsers and
North American, and the audience has a admirers will find many galleries in which to
strong student demographic. while away hours. There are at least a dozen
studios in Calle Obispo alone. For gallery
Cine Trianón Cinema
events, look for the free Arte en La Habana,
(Map p72; Línea No 706, Vedado) Movies or live a triquarterly listings flyer (the San Cristóbal
theater in a salubrious setting.
 114 Los Industriales
They may not be as globally marketable as the New York Yankees, but to thousands of
habaneros, the all-conquering Industriales are held in equal esteem. Don’t even begin
to think you’ve understood this oxymoronic city until you’ve mustered at least a basic
knowledge of baseball and the gigantic role played by the beloved Leones Azules (Blue
Lions), as the team is known.
Enjoying premier status in the Cuban National Series (Serie Nacional de Béisbol), the
Havana D o wnto wn H avana

country’s hotly contested baseball tournament, Los Industriales have nabbed a record
12 titles since their formation in 1962. Emulating the Yankees – or soccer’s Manchester
United – they are Cuba’s ‘glory’ team, retaining fans all over the country, but also attract-
ing an equally vociferous contingent of naysayers who’d pay to see them lose.
In the face of weak local opposition (Havana’s other team, the Metropolitanos, are
perennial underachievers), the Industriales’ traditional rivals are the combative Avispas
(Wasps) from Santiago de Cuba, who they meet six times a season to replay a grudge
match that has been going on ever since Havana stole the mantle of Cuban capital in
1607.
The Havana-Santiago domination was interrupted briefly in the 1990s by strong
teams from Villa Clara (who won a hat trick of titles between 1993 and 1995) and Pinar
del Río (who logged two straight wins in 1997 and 1998). The biggest surprise in recent
years, however, was when a journeyman team from Havana Province – the Vaqueros
(Cowboys) – appeared out of nowhere to steal Cuba’s baseball crown in 2009.
For a no-holds-barred initiation into Havana’s baseball passion, visit the Esquina Cali-
ente (literally ‘hot corner’) in Parque Central, where an almost permanent bevy of bois-
terous habaneros loudly discuss baseball around the clock. Even better, go to a game.

agency on Plaza de San Francisco de Asís Longina Música Music Store

usually has them). (Map p58; Obispo No 360 btwn Habana & Compos-
tela; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun) This
Habana Vieja place on the pedestrian mall has a good
oCentro Cultural Antiguos selection of CDs, plus musical instruments
Almacenes de Deposito such as bongos, guitars, maracas, guiros and
San José Art, Souvenirs tumbadoras (conga drums). It often places
(Map p58; cnr Av Desamparados & San Ignacio; loudspeakers in the street outside to grab
h10am-6pm Mon-Sat) In November 2009 Ha- the attention of passing tourists.
vana’s open-air handicraft market moved un-
Casa de Carmen Montilla Art
der the cover of this old shipping warehouse
(Map p58; Oficios No 164; h10:30am-5:30pm Tue-
in Av del Puerto. Check your socialist ideals
Sat, 9am-1pm Sun) An important art gallery
at the door. Herein lies a hive of free-enter-
named after a celebrated Venezuelan paint-
prise and (unusually for Cuba) haggling. Pos-
er who maintained a studio here until her
sible souvenirs include paintings, guayabera
death in 2004. Spread across three floors,
shirts, woodwork, leather items, jewelry and
the house exhibits the work of Montilla and
numerous apparitions of the highly market-
other popular Cuban and Venezuelan artists.
able El Che. There are also snacks, clean-ish
The rear courtyard features a huge ceramic
toilets and a tourist information represen-
mural by Alfredo Sosabravo.
tative from the San Cristóbal agency. It’s as
popular with Cubans as it is with tourists. Plaza de Armas Secondhand
Book Market Book Market
Palacio de la Artesanía Souvenirs
(Map p58; cnr Obispo & Tacón) A book market
(Map p58; Cuba No 64; h9am-7pm) A former
stocking old, new and rare books, includ-
18th-century colonial palace turned into a
ing Hemingway, some weighty poetry and
shopping mall! Gathered around a shaded
plenty of written pontifications from Fidel.
central patio is one-stop shopping for souve-
It’s all here under the leafy boughs in Plaza
nirs, cigars, crafts, musical instruments, CDs,
de Armas. Browse to your heart’s content.
clothing and jewelry at fixed prices. Join the
gaggles of tour-bus escapees and fill your bag.
Habana 1791 Perfume 1910. Today it’s full of shabby, half-empty
(Map p58; Mercaderes No 156 btwn Obrapía & Lam- stores, including El Orbe bike rentals. 115
parilla) A specialist shop that sells perfume Area de Vendedores por
made from tropical flowers, Havana 1791 re- Cuenta Propia Market
tains the air of a working museum. Floral fra- (Map p68; Máximo Gómez No 259; h9am-5pm
grances are mixed by hand – you can see the Mon-Sat) This is a permanent flea market
petals drying in a laboratory out the back. where you can pick up Santería beads, old
Librería Grijalbo Mondadovi Bookstore
books, leather belts etc.

Havana S h oHavana
downtown
Downtown
(Map p58; O’Reilly No 4, Plaza de Armas) Fantas- Librería Luis Rogelio
tic mix of magazines, guidebooks, reference, Nogueras Bookstore
politics and art imprints in English and (Map p68; Av de Italia No 467 btwn Barcelona &
Spanish encased neatly in the sublime Pa- San Martín) Literary magazines and Cuban
lacio del Segundo Cabo in Plaza de Armas. literature in Spanish at one of Centro’s

pping sh
Librería la Internacional Bookstore best bookstores.
(Map p58; Obispo No 526; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat,
Vedado
9am-3pm Sun) Good selection of guides,
Sevando Galería del Arte Art
photography books and Cuban literature

S h o pping
(Map p72; cnr Calles 23 & 10; h9am-6pm Tue-Sat)
in English; next door is Librería Cer-
This cool gallery next to the Cine Chaplín
vantes, an antiquarian bookseller.
and opposite the Icaic headquarters is in an
Estudio Galería los Oficios Art arty part of town and displays some interest-
(Map p58; Oficios No 166; h10am-5:30pm Mon- ing modern paintings and prints. Be sure to
Sat) Pop into this gallery to see the large, check out the Cuban movie-poster gallery on
hectic but intriguing canvases by Nelson the other side of the cinema (two doors away).
Domínguez, whose workshop is upstairs.
Galería Habana Art
Taller de Serigrafía René
(Map p72; Línea No 460 btwn Calles E & F; h10am-
Portocarrero Art
5pm Mon-Sat) This wonderful space in the
(Map p58; Cuba No 513 btwn Brasil & Muralla;
heart of Vedado shows contemporary Cuban
h9am-4pm Mon-Fri) Paintings and prints by
art in big, bright galleries. Come here to see
young Cuban artists are exhibited and sold
what’s new and different.
here (from CUC$30 to CUC$150). You can
also see the artists at work. Galería de Arte Latinoamericano Art
Moderna Poesía Bookstore (Map p72; cnr Calles 3 & G; admission CUC$2;
(Map p58; Obispo 525; h10am-8pm) Perhaps h10am-4:30pm Tue-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun) Situated
Havana’s best spot for Spanish-language inside the Casa de las Américas and featur-
books is this classic art deco building at the ing art from all over Latin America.
western end of Calle Obispo.
Instituto Cubano del
Centro Habana Arte e Industria
Galería la Acacia Art
Cinematográficos Souvenirs

(Map p68; San Martín No 114 btwn Industria & Con- (Map p72; Calle 23 btwn 10 & 12; h10am-5pm)
sulado; h10am-3:30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) Best place in Havana for rare Cuban movie
This important gallery behind the Gran posters and DVDs. The shop is inside the
Teatro de La Habana has paintings by lead- Icaic (Cuban Film Institute) building and
ing artists such as Zaida del Río, plus an- accessed through the Café Fresa y Chocolate.
tiques. Export permits are arranged. Feria de la Artesanía Souvenirs

El Bulevar Market
(Map p72; Malecón btwn Calles D & E; hfrom
(Map p68; San Rafael btwn Paseo de Martí & Av de 10:30am, closed Wed) This artisan market is
Italia) This is the pedestrianized part of Calle a pale imitation of Habana Vieja’s Antiguos
San Rafael near the Hotel Inglaterra. Come Almacenes, with a few handmade shoes and
here for peso snacks and surprises and 1950s sandals, and some old stamps and coins
shopping nostalgia. thrown in for good measure.

La Manzana de Gómez Shopping Center

ARTex Souvenirs

(Map p68; cnr Agramonte & San Rafael) Talk about (Map p72; cnr Calles 23 & L) A fabulous selection
faded glory! This once elegant European- of old movie posters, antique postcards, T-
style covered shopping arcade was built in shirts and, of course, all the greatest Cuban
 116
films on videotape are sold at this shop in- 8 Information

side the Cine Yara. Dangers & Annoyances
Galerías de Paseo Shopping Center Havana is not a dangerous city, especially when
(Map p72; cnr Calle 1 & Paseo; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat, compared to other metropolitan areas in North
9am-1pm Sun) Across the street from the Ho- and South America. There is almost no gun
crime, violent robbery, organized gang culture,
tel Meliá Cohiba, this place is an upscale (for
teenage delinquency, drugs or dangerous no-go
Cuba) shopping center with some designer zones. Rather, a heavy police presence on the
labels and even a car dealership. It sells well-
Havana D o wnto wn H avana

streets and stiff prison sentences for crimes

made clothes and other consumer items to such as assault have acted as a major deterrent
tourists and affluent Cubans. for would-be criminals and kept the dirty ten-
tacles of organized crime at bay.
Plaza Carlos III Shopping Center
But it’s not all love and peace, man. Petty
(Map p72; Av Salvador Allende btwn Arbol Seco & Re-
crime against tourists in Havana – almost non-
tiro; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat) After Plaza América
existent in the 1990s – is widespread and on
in Varadero, this is probably Cuba’s flashiest the rise, with pickpocketing, bag-snatching by
shopping mall – and there’s barely a foreign- youths mounted on bicycles and the occasional
er in sight. Step in on a Saturday and see the face-to-face mugging all being reported.
double economy working at a feverish pitch. Bring a money belt and keep it on you at all
Librería Centenario times, making sure that you wear it concealed –
del Apóstol Bookstore and tightly secured – around your waist.
(Map p72; Calle 25 No 164; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, In hotels use a safety deposit box (if there
9am-1pm Sun) Great assortment of used is one) and never leave money, passports or
books with a José Martí bias in downtown credit cards lying around during the day. Theft
Vedado. from hotel rooms is tediously common, with the
temptation of earning three times your monthly
Librería Rayuela Bookstore
salary in one fell swoop often too hard to resist.
(Map p72; cnr Calles 3 & G; h9am-4:30pm Mon-Fri) In bars and restaurants it is wise to check your
This small but respected store bivouacked change. Purposeful overcharging, especially
in the bookish Casa de las Americas build- when someone is mildly inebriated, is a favorite
ing is great for contemporary literature, (and easy) trick.
compact discs and some guidebooks. Visitors from the well-ordered European
La Habana Sí Souvenirs countries or litigation-obsessed North America
(Map p72; cnr Calles 23 & L; h10am-10pm should keep an eye out for crumbling sidewalks,
Mon-Sat, 10am-7pm Sun) This shop opposite manholes with no covers, inexplicable driving
the Hotel Habana Libre has a good selec- rules, veering cyclists, carelessly lobbed front-
door keys (in Centro Habana) and enthusiasti-
tion of CDs, cassettes, books, crafts and
cally hit baseballs (almost everywhere). Waves
postcards. cascading over the Malecón sea wall might look
pretty, but the resulting slime-fest has been

Where to Buy Rum, Cigars & Coffee

Shops selling Cuba’s top three homegrown products are relatively common in Havana.
All are government-run. As a rule of thumb, never buy cigars off the street, as they will al-
most always be damaged and/or sub-standard. Havana’s prime factory-outlet cigar shop
is at the Real Fábrica de Tabacos Partagás (Map p68; Industria No 520 btwn Barcelona
& Dragones; h9am-7pm) and is always well stocked. Another excellent option is La Casa
del Habano (Map p124; Av 5 cnr Calle 16) in Miramar, which has an air-conditioned smok-
ing room and a reputable bar/restaurant. While many top hotels stock cigars, the best
shop is in the Hostal Condes de Villanueva (Map p58; Mercaderes No 202). There’s an
equally good option just down the street in the Museo del Tabaco (Map p58; Mercaderes
No 120).
For rum, look no further than the Fundación Havana Club shop (Map p58; San Pedro
No 262; h9am-9pm) at the Museo de Ron in Habana Vieja.
Coffee is sold at all of the above places, but for a bit more choice and a decent taster
cup pop into La Casa del Café (Map p58; Baratillo cnr Obispo; h9am-5pm) just off Plaza
de Armas in Habana Vieja.
known to send Lonely Planet–wielding tourists broadcasts (5pm to 7pm) list what’s happening
flying unceremoniously onto their asses. around town. 117
For other common scams, see the boxed text,
Medical Services
p118.
Most of Cuba’s specialist hospitals offering
Emergency services to foreigners are based in Havana; see
Asistur (% 886-8339, 866-8920; www.asistur. www.cubanacan.cu for details. Consult the Playa
cu; Paseo de Martí No 208, Centro Habana; & Marianao section of this chapter (p131) for
h8:30am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-2pm Sat) other international clinics and pharmacies.

Havana 
downtown
Downtown
Someone on staff should speak English; the Centro Oftalmológico Camilo Cienfuegos
alarm center here is open 24 hours. (% 832-5554; cnr Calle L No 151 & Calle 13,
Fire Service (%105) Vedado) Head straight here with eye problems;
Police (%106) also has an excellent pharmacy.
Farmacia Homopática (cnr Calles 23 & M,
Internet Access Vedado; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-4pm Sat)

Havana info
Havana doesn’t have any private internet cafes. Farmacia Taquechel (% 862-9286; Obispo No
Your best bet outside the Etecsa Telepuntos 155, Habana Vieja; h9am-6pm) Next to the
is the posher hotels. Most Habaguanex hotels Hotel Ambos Mundos. Cuban wonder drugs
in Habana Vieja have internet terminals and such as anticholesterol medication PPG sold in


sell scratch cards (CUC$6 per hour) that work pesos here.
throughout the chain. You don’t have to be a Hospital Nacional Hermanos Ameijeiras

rmati o n 
guest to use them. (% 877-6053; San Lázaro No 701, Centro Ha-
Cibercafé Capitolio (% 862-0485; cnr Paseo bana) Special hard-currency services, general
de Martí & Brasil, Centro Habana; per hr consultations and hospitalization. Enter via
CUC$5; h8am-8pm) Inside main entrance. the lower level below the parking lot off Padre
Etecsa Telepunto (Habana 406) Six terminals Varela (ask for CEDA in Section N).
in a back room. Hotel Pharmacies Hotel Habana Libre (% 831-
Hotel Business Centers Hotel Habana Libre 9538; Calle L btwn Calles 23 & 25, Vedado)
(Calle L btwn Calles 23 & 25, Vedado); Hotel Products sold in convertibles; Hotel Sevilla
Inglaterra (Paseo de Martí No 416, Centro (% 861-5703; Prado cnr Trocadero, Habana
Habana); Hotel Nacional (cnr Calles O & 21, Vieja)
Vedado); Hotel NH Parque Central (btwn Agra-
monte & Paseo de Martí, Centro Habana) Costs Money
vary at these places. Banco de Crédito y Comercio Vedado (cnr
Línea & Paseo); Vedado (% 870-2684; Airline
Media Bldg, Calle 23) Expect lines.
Cuba has a fantastic radio culture, where you’ll Banco Financiero Internacional Habana Vieja
hear everything from salsa to Supertramp, plus (%860-9369; cnr Oficios & Brasil); Vedado
live sports broadcasts and soap operas. Radio (Hotel Habana Libre, Calle L btwn Calles 23 & 25)
is also the best source for listings on concerts, Banco Metropolitano Centro Habana (% 862-
plays, movies and dances. 6523; Av de Italia No 452 cnr San Martín);
Radio Ciudad de La Habana (820AM & Vedado (% 832-2006; cnr Línea & Calle M,
94.9FM) Cuban tunes by day, foreign pop at Vedado)
night; great ’70s flashback at 8pm on Thursday Cadeca Centro Habana (cnr Neptuno &
and Friday. Agramonte; h9am-noon & 1-7pm Mon-Sat);
Radio Metropolitana (910AM & 98.3FM) Jazz Habana Vieja (cnr Oficios & Lamparilla; h8am-
and traditional boleros (music in 3/4 time); 7pm Mon-Sat, 8am-1pm Sun); Vedado (Calle
excellent Sunday afternoon rock show. 23 btwn Calles K & L; h7am-2:30pm & 3:30-
Radio Musical Nacional (590AM & 99.1FM) 10pm); Vedado (Mercado Agropecuario, Calle
Classical. 19 btwn Calles A & B; h7am-6pm Mon-Sat,
Radio Progreso (640AM & 90.3 FM) Soap 8am-1pm Sun); Vedado (cnr Malecón & Calle
operas and humor. D) Cadeca gives cash advances and changes
traveler’s checks at 3.5% commission Monday
Radio Rebelde (640AM, 710AM & 96.7FM)
to Friday (4% weekends).
News, interviews, good mixed music, plus
baseball games. Cambio (Obispo No 257, Habana Vieja; h8am-
10pm) The best opening hours in town.
Radio Reloj (950AM & 101.5FM) News, plus the
time every minute of every day. Post
Radio Taíno (1290AM & 93.3FM) National DHL Vedado (% 832-2112; Calzada No 818 btwn
tourism station with music, listings and Calles 2 & 4; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri); Vedado
interviews in Spanish and English. Nightly (% 836-3564; Hotel Nacional, cnr Calles O & 21)
 118 Street Hassle
Well-documented jinetero (tout) problems aside, Havana is a relatively safe city – par-
ticularly when compared with other Latin American capitals. Stroll through the atmo-
spheric backstreets of Centro Habana or Habana Vieja of an evening, and your biggest
worry is likely to be a badly pitched baseball or a flailing line of household washing.
But innocents beware. Scams do exist, particularly in the more touristy areas, where
well-practiced hustlers lurk outside the big hotels waiting to prey on unsuspecting for-
Havana D o wnto wn H avana

eign visitors.
One popular trick is for young men in the street to offer to change foreign currency
into Cuban convertibles at very favorable rates. Accept this at your peril. The money that
you will be given is moneda nacional or Cuban pesos, visually similar to convertibles, but
worth one-twenty-fifth of the value when you take them into a shop.
A second scam is the illicit sale of cheap cigars usually perpetuated by hissing street
salesmen around Centro Habana and Habana Vieja. It is best to politely ignore these
characters. Any bartering is not worth the bother. Cigars sold on the street are almost
always substandard – something akin to substituting an expensive French wine with
cheap white vinegar. Instead, buy your cigars direct from the factory or visit one of the
numerous Casas del Habano that are scattered throughout the city.

Post offices Centro Habana (Gran Teatro, cnr Tourist Information

San Martín & Paseo de Martí); Habana Vieja Infotur Airport (% 642-6101; Terminal 3
(Plaza de San Francisco de Asís, Oficios No Aeropuerto Internacional José Martí; h24hr);
102); Habana Vieja (Unidad de Filatelía, Obispo Habana Vieja (% 863-6884; cnr Obispo & San
No 518; h9am-7pm); Vedado (cnr Línea & Ignacio; h10am-1pm & 2-7pm) Books tours
Paseo; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat); Vedado (cnr and sells maps and phone cards.
Calles 23 & C; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon
Sat); Vedado (Av de la Independencia btwn Travel Agencies
Plaza de la Revolución & Terminal de Ómnibus; Many of the following agencies also have offices
hstamp sales 24hr) The last one has many at the airport, in the international arrivals lounge
services, including photo developing, a bank of Terminal 3.
and a Cadeca. The Museo Postal Cubano Cubamar Viajes (% 833-2523/4; www.
(% 870-5581; admission CUC$1; h10am-5pm cubamarviajes.cu; Calle 3 btwn Calle 12 &
Sat & Sun) here has a philatelic shop. The post Malecón, Vedado; h8:30am-5pm Mon-Sat)
office at Obispo, Habana Vieja, also has stamps Travel agency for Campismo Popular cabins
for collectors. countrywide. Also rents mobile homes.
Telephone Cubanacán (% 873-2686; www.cubanacan.
Etecsa Telepuntos Centro Habana (Aguilar No cu; Hotel Nacional, cnr Calles O & 21, Vedado;
h8am-7pm) Very helpful; head here if you want
565; h8am-9:30pm) There’s also a Museo de
las Telecomunicaciones (h9am-6pm Tue- to arrange fishing or diving at Marina Heming-
Sat) here if you get bored waiting; Habana Vieja way; also in Hotel NH Parque Central, Hotel
(Habana 406) Inglaterra and Hotel Habana Libre.
Cubatur (% 835-4155; cnr Calles 23 & M,
Toilets Vedado; h8am-8pm) Below Hotel Habana
Havana isn’t overendowed with clean and Libre. This agency pulls a lot of weight and
available public toilets. Most tourists slip into finds rooms where others can’t, which goes a
upscale hotels if they’re caught short. Make sure long way toward explaining its slacker attitude.
you tip the lady at the door. It has desks in most of the main hotels.
Hotel Ambos Mundos (Obispo No 153, Habana Ecotur (% 649-1055; www.ecoturcuba.co.cu;
Vieja) Tip the attendant. Av Independencia No 116 cnr Santa Catalina,
Hotel Habana Libre (Calle L btwn Calles 23 & Cerro) Sells all kinds of naturalistic excursions.
25, Vedado) To the left of the elevators. Havanatur (% 835-3720; www.havanatur.cu;
Hotel Nacional (cnr Calles O & 21, Vedado) Calle 23 cnr M, Vedado)
Right in the lobby and left past the elevators. San Cristóbal Agencia de Viajes (% 861-
Hotel Sevilla (Trocadero No 55 btwn Paseo de 9171/2; www.viajessancristobal.cu; Oficios No
Martí & Agramonte, Centro Habana) Turn right 110 btwn Lamparilla & Amargura, Habana Vieja;
h8:30am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, 8:30am-2pm Sat,
inside the lobby.
9am-noon Sun) Habaguanex agency operates
Habana Vieja’s classic hotels; income helps Buses to points in the Artemisa and Maya-
finance restoration. It offers the best tours in beque provinces leave from Apodaca No 53, off 119
Havana. Agramonte, near the main train station in Ha-
bana Vieja. They go to Güines, Jaruco, Madruga,
8 Getting There & Away
Nueva Paz, San José, San Nicolás and Santa
Cruz del Norte, but expect large crowds and
Air
come early to get a peso ticket.
Cubana Airlines (% 834-4446; Calle 23 No
64 cnr Infanta, Vedado; h8:30am-4pm Mon- Taxi

Havana 
downtown
Downtown
Fri, 8:30am-noon Sat) has its head office at Small Lada taxis, operated by Cubataxi, park
the Malecón end of the Airline Building on La on Calle 19 de Mayo beside the Terminal de
Rampa. You can buy international or domestic Ómnibus. They charge approximately CUC$0.50
tickets here. If it’s packed, try the helpful Sol y per kilometer. This translates as CUC$70 to
Son (% 833-3647; fax 33-51-50; Calle 23 No 64 Varadero, CUC$80 to Pinar del Río, CUC$140
btwn Calle P & Infanta, Vedado; h8:30am-6pm to Santa Clara, CUC$125 to Cienfuegos and

Havana getting
Mon-Fri, 8:30am-noon Sat) travel agency a few CUC$165 to Trinidad. Up to four people can go
doors down. for the price. It’s worth considering in a pinch
Aerocaribbean (% 832-7584; Airline Bldg, and is perfectly legal.
Calle 23 No 64, Vedado) is another airline with


domestic services. Train
Trains to most parts of Cuba depart from Es-
Boat tación Central de Ferrocarriles (% 862-1920,
Buses connecting with the hydrofoil service 861-8540; cnr Av de Bélgica & Arsenal, Habana
to Isla de la Juventud leave at 9am from the

there & away

Vieja), on the southwestern side of Habana Vieja.
Terminal de Ómnibus (% 878-1841; cnr Av de Foreigners must buy tickets in convertibles at La
la Independencia & 19 de Mayo, Vedado), near Coubre station (% 862-1006; cnr Av del Puerto
the Plaza de la Revolución, but they’re often late. & Desamparados, Habana Vieja; h9am-3pm
You’ll be told to arrive at least an hour before the Mon-Fri). If it’s closed, try the Lista de Espera of-
bus to buy your ticket, and it’s best to heed this fice adjacent, which sells tickets for trains leav-
advice. Bus/boat combo tickets are sold at the ing immediately. Kids under 12 travel half price.
kiosk marked ‘NCC’ between gates 9 and 10, and Cuba’s best train, the Tren Francés (an old
we found the staff quite unhelpful. Tickets cost French SNCF train), runs every third day be-
CUC$55. Bring your passport. tween Havana and Santiago stopping in Santa
Clara (CUC$17) and Camagüey (CUC$32). It
Bus
leaves Havana at 7pm and arrives in Santiago
Víazul (% 881-1413, 881-5652; www.viazul.com; the following morning at 9am. There are no
cnr Calle 26 & Zoológico, Nuevo Vedado) covers sleeper cars, but carriages are comfortable and
most destinations of interest to travelers, in air-conditioned, and there’s a snack service.
deluxe, air-conditioned coaches. All buses are di- Tickets cost CUC$62 for 1st class and CUC$50
rect except those to Guantánamo and Baracoa; for 2nd class.
for these destinations you must change in San- Slower coche motor (cross-island train)
tiago de Cuba. You can board all Víazul buses at services run to Santiago stopping in smaller
the inconveniently located terminal 3km south- stations, such as Matanzas (CUC$4), Sancti
west of Plaza de la Revolución, or at the Terminal Spíritus (CUC$13), Ciego de Ávila (CUC$16), Las
de Ómnibus. Here tickets for Víazul services are Tunas (CUC$23), Bayamo (CUC$26), Manzanillo
sold immediately prior to departure in the Venta (CUC$28) and Holguín (CUC$27). One train
de Boletines office. You can get full schedules on goes as far as Guantánamo (CUC$32). There are
the website or at Infotur (Obispo btwn Bernaza separate branch lines to Cienfuegos (CUC$11)
& Villegas, Habana Vieja), which also sells tickets and Pinar del Río (CUC$6.50).
requiring you to board at its originating station
in Nuevo Vedado. The above information is only a rough ap-
proximation of what should happen; services are
Havana-bound, you can usually get off the routinely delayed or canceled (including the Tren
Víazul bus from Varadero/Matanzas in Centro Francés, which was temporarily out of service
Habana right after the tunnel (check with the at the time of writing). Always double-check
driver beforehand), but if you arrive from most scheduling and from which terminal your train
other points you’ll be let out at the Nuevo Veda- will leave.
do terminal. From here city bus 27 will take you
to Vedado or Centro Habana (ask). Alternatively For information about the electric train from
a taxi will cost you a rip-off CUC$10 – unless Casablanca to Matanzas, see p137. Suburban
you negotiate extra hard. Otherwise, if your bus trains and local services to points within the
stops at the Terminal de Ómnibus on Av de la Havana province are discussed under Getting
Independencia, jump off there. Around.
 120
8 Getting Around
True adventurers with light luggage and a tight
budget can chance their arm on the P-12 metro
To/From the Airport
bus from the Capitolio or the P-15 from the Hos-
Aeropuerto Internacional José Martí is at Ran- pital Hermanos Ameijeiras on the Malecón, both
cho Boyeros, 25km southwest of Havana via Av of which go to Santiago de las Vegas, stopping
de la Independencia. There are four terminals close to the airport (about 1.5km away) on Av
here. Terminal 1, on the southeastern side of the Boyeros. This is a lot easier for departing travel-
runway, handles only domestic Cubana flights. ers, who will have better knowledge of local
Three kilometers away, via Av de la Indepen- geography.
Havana D o wnto wn H avana

dencia, is Terminal 2, which receives flights and

charters from Miami and New York and to and To/From the Bus Terminal
from the Cayman Islands. All other international The Víazul bus terminal is in the suburb of Nuevo
flights use Terminal 3, a well-ordered, modern Vedado, and taxis will charge between CUC$5
facility at Wajay, 2.5km west of Terminal 2. and CUC$10 for the ride to central Havana.
Charter flights on Aerocaribbean, Aerogaviota, There are no direct metro buses from central
Aerotaxi etc to Cayo Largo del Sur and elsewhere Havana. If you take the P-14 from the Capitolio,
use the Caribbean Terminal (also known as Ter- you’ll have to get off on Av 51 and walk the last
minal 5), at the northwestern end of the runway, 500m or so.
2.5km west of Terminal 3. (Terminal 4 hasn’t
been built yet.) Check carefully which terminal Bici-Taxi
you’ll be using. Two-seater bici-taxis will take you anywhere
Public transport from the airport into central around Centro Habana for CUC$1/2 for a short/
Havana is practically nonexistent. A standard long trip, after bargaining. It’s a lot more than
taxi will cost you approximately CUC$20 (40 a Cuban would pay, but cheaper and more fun
minutes). You can change money at the bank in than a tourist taxi. Laws prohibit bici-taxis from
the arrivals hall. taking tourists and the driver may wish to go via
a roundabout route through the back streets to

Víazul Departures from Havana

Check for the most up-to-date departure times on www.viazul.com.

Destination Cost (CUC$) Duration (hr) departure times

Bayamo 44 13 9:30am, 3:15pm, 10pm
Camagüey 33 9 8:40am, 9:30am,
3:15pm, 6:15pm,
8:30pm, 10pm
Ciego de Ávila 27 7 8:40am, 9:30am,
3:15pm, 8:30pm, 10pm
Cienfuegos 20 4 8:15am, 1pm
Holguín 44 12 8:40am, 3:15pm,
8:30pm
Las Tunas 39 11½ 8:40am, 9:30am,
3:15pm, 8:30pm, 10pm
Matanzas 7 2 8am, noon, 5pm, 7pm
Pinar del Río 11 3 9am, 4pm
Sancti Spíritus 23 5¾ 8:40am, 9:30am,
3:15pm, 8:30pm, 10pm
Santa Clara 18 3¾ 8:40am, 9:30am,
3:15pm, 10pm
Santiago de Cuba 51 15 9:30am, 3:15pm,
6:15pm, 10pm
Trinidad 25 6 8:15am, 1pm
Varadero 10 3 8am, noon, 5pm, 7pm
Viñales 12 4 9am, 4pm
avoid police controls – a cheap tour! If a bici-taxi the T1 bus was running all the way to Marina
gets stopped, it’s the driver that gets the warn- Hemingway. 121
ing/fine, not you. Bus Havana’s bus service has improved im-
mensely in recent years with the introduction
Boat
of a brand new fleet of Chinese-made ‘bendy’
Passenger ferries (% 867-3726; Habana Vieja) buses that replaced the famously crowded and
shuttle across the harbor to Regla and Casablan- dirty camellos (the city’s former metro buses) in
ca, leaving every 10 or 15 minutes from Muelle 2007. These buses run regularly along 14 dif-
Luz, at the corner of San Pedro and Santa Clara, ferent routes, connecting most parts of the city

Havana 
downtown
Downtown
on the southeast side of Habana Vieja. The fare with the suburbs. Fares are 20 centavos (five
is a flat 10 centavos, but foreigners often get centavos if you’re using convertibles), which
charged CUC$1. Since the ferries were hijacked you deposit into a small slot in front of the driver
to Florida in 1994 and again in 2003 (the hijack- when you enter.
ers never made it outside Cuban waters), secu- Cuban buses are crowded and little used by
rity has been tightened. Expect bag searches tourists. Beware of pickpockets and guard your

Havana getting
and airport-style screening. valuables closely.
Car All bus routes have the prefix P before their
There are lots of car-rental offices in Havana, number:


so if you’re told there are no cars or there isn’t P-1 Diezmero – Playa (via Virgen del Camino,
one in your price range, just try another office or Vedado, Línea, Av 3)
agency. All agencies have offices at Terminal 3 at P-2 Diezmero – Línea y G (via Vibora & Ciudad
Aeropuerto Internacional José Martí. Otherwise, Deportiva)

ar o und
there’s a car-rental desk in any three-star (or P-3 Alamar – Túnel de Línea (via Virgen del
higher) hotel. Prices for equivalent models are Camino and Vibora)
nearly always the same between the companies; P-4 San Agustín – Terminal de Trenes (via
it’s called socialismo. Playa, Calle 23, La Rampa)
Cubacar (% 835-0000) have desks at most P-5 San Agustín – Terminal de Trenes (via
of the big hotels, including Meliá Cohiba, Meliá Lisa, Av 31, Línea, Av de Puerto)
Habana, NH Parque Central, Habana Libre, Co- P-6 Calvario – La Rampa (via Vibora)
modoro and Sevilla.
P-7 Cotorro – Capitolio (via Virgen del
Rex Rent a Car (% 836-7788; cnr Línea & Camino)
Malecón, Vedado) rents fancy cars for extortion-
ate prices. P-8 Calvario – Villa Panamericano (via
Vibora, Capitolio and harbor tunnel)
Servi-Cupet gas stations are in Vedado at
Calles L and 17; Malecón and Calle 15; Malecón P-9 Vibora – Lisa (via Cuatro Caminos, La
and Paseo, near the Riviera and Meliá Cohiba Rampa, Calle 23, Av 41)
hotels; and on Av de la Independencia (north- P-10 Vibora – Playa (via Altahabana and
bound lane) south of Plaza de la Revolución. All Calle 100)
are open 24 hours a day. P-11 Alamar – G y 27 (via harbor tunnel)
Guarded parking is available for approximately P-12 Santiago de las Vegas – Capitolio (via
CUC$1 all over Havana, including in front of the Av Boyeros)
Hotel Sevilla, Hotel Inglaterra and Hotel Nacional. P-13 Santiago de las Vegas – Vibora (via
Calabazar)
Public Transport
P-14 San Agustín – Capitolio (via Lisa and
Havana bus tour The handy new hop on/ Av 51)
hop off Havana Bus Tour (% 831-7333; Calle
P-15 Santiago de las Vegas – Hermanos
L No 456 btwn Calles 25 & 27) runs on three
Ameijeiras (via Av Boyeros and Calle G)
routes. The main stop is in Parque Central op-
posite the Hotel Inglaterra. This is the pickup P-16 Hospital Naval – Playa (via Calle 100
point for bus T1, which runs from Habana Vieja and Lisa)
to the Plaza de la Revolución (via Centro Habana, Older buses still run along some cross-town
the Malecón and Calle 23), and bus T3, which routes (eg bus 400 to Playas del Este), but
runs from Centro Habana to Playas del Este (via there are no printed timetables or route maps.
Parque Histórico Militar Morro-Cabaña). Bus Individual services have been mentioned in this
T2 runs from the Plaza de la Revolución (where chapter where appropriate.
it connects with T1) to Marina Hemingway (via
Taxi
Necrópolis Cristóbal Colón and Playa). Bus T1 is
open-top. All-day tickets are CUC$5. Services Metered tourist taxis are readily available at all
run from 9am to 9pm and routes and stops are of the upscale hotels, with the air-conditioned
clearly marked on all bus stops. At the time of Nissan taxis charging higher tariffs than the
research the T2 service was suspended and non-air-conditioned Ladas. The cheapest official
 taxis are operated by Panataxi (%55-55-55), ness travelers and conference attendees
122 with a CUC$1 starting fare, then CUC$0.50 a flock in from around the globe to make use
kilometer. Tourist taxis charge CUC$1 a kilome- of some of Cuba’s grandest and most luxuri-
ter and can be ordered from Havanautos Taxi ous facilities. If you’re interested primarily
(%73-22-77) and Transgaviota (%206-9793). in sightseeing and entertainment, commut-
Taxi OK (%204-0000, 877-6666) is based in
ing to Vedado or Habana Vieja is a nuisance
Miramar. Drivers of the tourist taxis are govern-
ment employees who work for a peso salary.
and an expense. However, some of the best
salsa clubs, discos and restaurants are out
The cheapest taxis are the older yellow-and-
Havana Outer H avana

black Ladas, which are state-owned but rented

this way and the casas particulares are posi-
out to private operators. They won’t wish to use tively luxurious.
their meters, as these are set at an unrealisti- Cubanacán plays host to many of Ha-
cally low rate, but you can bargain over the fare. vana’s business or scientific fairs and con-
They’re not supposed to pick up passengers ventions, and it is also where several special-
within 100m of a tourist hotel. ized medical institutes are situated. Despite
Private pirate taxis (ie those that aren’t sup- the austerity of the período especial (Special
posed to take foreigners) with yellow license Period), vast resources have been plowed
plates are a bit cheaper, but you must agree on into biotechnological and pharmaceutical
the fare before getting into the car, and carry research institutes in this area. Yachties, an-
exact change. There are usually classic-car taxis glers and scuba divers will find themselves
parked in front of the Hotel Inglaterra. using the Marina Hemingway at Playa’s west
Walking end.
Marianao is world-famous for the Tropi-
Yes, walking! It’s what the gas-starved haban-
eros have been doing for decades. Most parts of cana Nightclub, but locally it’s known as a
Habana Vieja, Centro Habana and Vedado can be tough, in parts rough neighborhood with a
easily navigated on foot if you’re energetic and powerful Santería community and a long
up for some exercise. You’ll see a lot more of of history of social commitment.
the local street life in the process.
1 Sights
Miramar
Outer Havana oFundación Naturaleza
y El Hombre Museum
Splaying out on three sides from the down-
(Map p124; %204-0438; Av 5B No 6611 btwn Calles
town district, Havana’s suburbs are full of
66 & 70, Playa; admission CUC$3; h10am-4pm
quirky and easy-to-reach sights and activities
Mon-Fri) This fascinating museum displays
that can make interesting day and half-day
artifacts from the 17,422km canoe trip from
trips from the city center. Playa boasts a de-
the Amazon source to the sea, led by Cuban
cent aquarium, top-class conference facilities
intellectual and anthropologist Antonio Nu-
and Cuba’s best restaurants; Guanabacoa
ñez Jiménez in 1987. Other exhibits in an
and Regla are famous for their Afro-Cuban
astounding collection include one of Cuba’s
religious culture; and the bayside forts of La
largest photography collections, books writ-
Cabaña and El Morro exhibit some of the is-
ten by the prolific Nuñez Jiménez, the fa-
land’s most impressive military architecture.
mous Fidel portrait by Guayasamín, and
‘the glass house’ – glass cases containing
all kinds of intriguing ephemera from the
Playa & Marianao founder’s life. The museum is a foundation
The municipality of Playa, west of Vedado and one of Havana’s most rewarding.
across the Río Almendares, is a paradoxi-
cal mix of prestigious residential streets and Pabellón para la Maqueta
tough proletarian housing schemes. de la Capital Museum
Gracious Miramar is a leafy neighbor- (Map p124; Calle 28 No 113 btwn Avs 1 & 3; admis-
hood of broad avenues and weeping laurel sion CUC$3; h9:30am-5pm Tue-Sat; c) If you
trees, where the traffic moves more sedately thought the Maqueta de La Habana Vieja
and diplomats’ wives – clad in sun visors (p57) was impressive, check out this ultra-
and Lycra leggings – go for gentle afternoon modern pavilion containing a huge 1:1000
jogs along Av Quinta (Fifth Ave). Many of scale model of the whole city. The model was
Havana’s foreign embassies are housed here originally created for urban-planning pur-
in old pre-Revolution mansions, and busi- poses, but is now a tourist attraction. Near-
by, the two parks on Av 5, between Calles river promenade and plants grow profusely.
24 and 26, with their immense banyan trees There are also many facilities here, includ- 123
and dark lanes, are an atmospheric pocket. ing an antiquated miniature golf course,
the Anfiteatro Parque Almendares (a
Acuario Nacional Aquarium
small outdoor performance space) and a
(Map p124; cnr Av 3 & Calle 62; adult/child CUC$5/3; playground. There are several good places
h10am-10pm Tue-Sun; c) Founded in 1960,
to eat.
the national aquarium is a Havana institu-
tion that gets legions of annual visitors, par- Marianao

Havana
Outer Havana
ticularly since its 2002 revamp. Despite its Museo de la Alfabetización Museum
rather scruffy appearance, this place leaves (cnr Av 29E & Calle 76; admission free; h8am-noon
all other Cuban acuarios (aquatic centers) & 1-4:30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat) The former
and delfinarios (dolphin shows) in the

S ights
P
Cuartel Colombia military airfield at Mari-

laya &S ights

shade (which isn’t saying much). For a start, anao is now a school complex called Ciudad
it’s designed to be both educational and con- Libertad. Pass through the gate to visit this
servationist. Saltwater fish are the specialty, inspiring museum, which describes the 1961

M arianao
but there are also sea lions, dolphins and literacy campaign, when 100,000 youths
lots of running-around room for kids. Dol- aged 12 to 18 spread out across Cuba to teach
phin performances are almost hourly from reading and writing to farmers, workers and
11am, with the final show at 9pm; admission the aged. In the center of the traffic circle,
price includes the show. opposite the entrance to the complex, is a
tower in the form of a syringe in memory
Russian Embassy Landmark
of Carlos Juan Finlay, who discovered the
(Map p124; Av 5 No 6402 btwn Calles 62 & 66, Playa)
cause of yellow fever in 1881.
In case you were wondering, that huge Stalin-
ist obelisk that dominates the skyline halfway Cubanacán
down Av Quinta is the Russian (formerly Instituto Superior de Arte Art Institute
Soviet) embassy, testament to the days when (Map p124; ISA; Calle 120 No 1110) The leading
Castro was best mates with Brezhnev et al. art academy in Cuba was established in the
former Havana Country Club in 1961 and el-
Museo del Ministerio del Interior Museum
evated to the status of institute in 1976. The
(Av 5 cnr Calle 14; admission CUC$2; h9am-5pm
cluster of buildings – some unfinished, some
Tue-Fri, to 4pm Sat) This museum showcases
half-restored, but all gloriously graceful due
the work of Cuba’s Interior Ministry (better
to the arches, domes and red brick – was the
known by its acronym MININT), headed up
brainchild of Che Guevara and a team of
since 1989 by Abelardo Colomé Ibarra, who
architects. Among them was Ricardo Porro,
fought alongside Fidel and Raúl in the Sierra
who designed the striking Facultad de Artes
Maestra. You won’t uncover any state secrets
Plásticas (1961), which has long curving pas-
here, but you will find displays pertaining to
sageways and domed halls in the shape of a
MININT’s role in hunting down terrorists and
reclining woman. Some 800 students study
criminals and its role in thwarting the innu-
here, and foreigners can too.
merable Cold War plots to assassinate Fidel.
Palacio de las
Iglesia Jesús de Miramar Church
Convenciones notable building
(Map p124; cnr Av 5 & Calle 82, Playa) Despite
(Map p124; Calle 146 btwn Avs 11 & 13) Also known
its modernity, Playa cradles Cuba’s second-
as the Havana Convention Center, this is
largest church. The Jesús is an aesthetically
one of Cuba’s most dramatic modern build-
pleasing neo-Romanesque structure topped
ings. Built for the Nonaligned Conference in
by a giant dome. Built in 1948, it protects
1979, the four interconnecting halls contain
Cuba’s largest pipe-organ and some unusual
a state-of-the-art auditorium with 2101 seats
modern murals.
and 11 smaller halls. The 589-member Na-
Parque Almendares Park tional Assembly meets here twice a year, and
Running along the banks of the city’s Río the complex hosts more than 50,000 confer-
Almendares, below the bridge on Calle 23, ence attendees annually. Not far from here
is this wonderful oasis of greenery and fresh is Pabexpo (cnr Av 17 & Calle 180), 20,000 sq
air in the heart of chaotic Havana. The park meters of exhibition space in four intercon-
was restored in 2003, and the restorers necting pavilions that hosts about 15 trade
did a beautiful job: benches now line the shows a year.
 124 Playa & Marianao

4
A B C D
Caleta de San Lázaro
174 NÁUTICO 14 18

4 4 4
C
6 6
6 6 6
19 ÿ
#
ÿ
# ÿ
#
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Marina Hemingway (4km) # 28
ú þ 49
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#
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Ciudad

‚
Libertad
A B C D

Isla del Coco Amusement park

(Map p124; Av 5 & Calle 112, Playa) A huge new Chi-
4 Sleeping
Miramar
nese-built amusement park in Playa with big
wheels, bumper cars, rollercoasters, the works. oHotel Meliá Habana Hotel $$$
(Map p124; %204-8500; Av 3 btwn Calles 76 &
2 Activities 80; r CUC$220; paiWs) Ugly outside but
beautiful within, Miramar’s gorgeous Ho-
Marlin Náutica Water Sports
(cnr Av 5 & Calle 248, Barlovento) There are many
tel Meliá Habana, which opened in 1998, is
water activities available at Marina Heming- one of the city’s best run and best-equipped
way in Barlovento, 20km west of central Ha- accommodation options. The 409 rooms
vana. Fishing trips can be arranged at Marlin (four of which are wheelchair-accessible)
Náutica from CUC$150 for four anglers and are positioned around a salubrious lobby
four hours of bottom fishing, and CUC$280 with abundant hanging vines, marble stat-
for four anglers and four hours of deep-sea ues and gushing water features. Outside,
fishing. Included are a captain, a sailor, an Cuba’s largest and most beautiful swimming
open bar and tackle. Marlin season is June pool stands next to a desolate, rocky shore.
to October. Scuba packages for CUC$35 per Throw in polite, punchy service, an excellent
dive and tours of Havana’s littoral (CUC$60 buffet restaurant and the occasional room
in a catamaran) can also be arranged. discount, and you could be swayed.
Barceló Habana Ciudad Hotel $$$
La Aguja Marlin Diving Center Dive Center
(Map p124; %214-1470; Av 5 btwn Calles 76 & 80, Mi-
(%204-5088; cnr Av 5 & 248, Barlovento) Be-
ramar; s/d CUC$110/130; aiWs) Playa’s new-
tween Cubanacán Náutica and the shopping
center, this center offers scuba diving for est hotel is another concrete colossus opened
CUC$30 per dive, plus CUC$5 for gear. It by the government-run hotel chain Gaviota
has one morning and one afternoon depar- in January 2010. It completes a trio of plush
ture. A diving excursion to Varadero or Playa accommodations set behind the Miramar
Girón can also be arranged. Reader reviews Trade Center. While the facilities claim a
have been favorable. high star-rating with expansive rooms (all
with separate showers and bathtubs) and
a good on-site restaurant, the place suffers
 0 1 km
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Outer Havana
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from the usual foibles of humungous chain- Aparthotel Montehabana Hotel $$

run establishments: a cold generic feel and a (Map p124; %206-9595; Calle 70 btwn Avs 5A &
lack of personality. 7, Playa; s/d/tr CUC$60/80/110; pai) This
modern Gaviota giant opened in December
Hotel el Bosque Hotel $
2005 with the promise of something a little
(Map p124; %204-9232; Calle 28A btwn Calles 49A different. Of the rooms here, 101 are apart-
& 49B, Kohly; s/d CUC$36/48; ai) Economi- ments with living rooms and fully equipped
cal and grossly underrated, El Bosque is the kitchens – a great opportunity to hit the
better and less costly arm of the Gaviota-run Havana markets and find out how Cubans
Kohly-Bosque complejo (complex). Clean cook. To help you, in the kitchen there are
and friendly, the hotel lies on the banks microwaves, refrigerators, toasters and
of the Río Almendares surrounded by the coffee machines – even your own cutlery.
Bosque de La Habana– the city’s green lungs If you’re not up to cooking, the restaurant
– and is a good (and rare) midrange choice does a CUC$8 breakfast and a CUC$15 din-
in this neck of the woods. The 54 rooms are ner buffet. Elsewhere the facilities are shiny
small but functional, there’s 24-hour inter- and new, with 24-hour internet, car rental
net, and out back a pleasant terrace over- and an on-site minimarket. Guests can use
looks the wooded slopes of the nearby river. the pool at the Hotel Occidental Miramar
Occidental Miramar Hotel $$$ next door.
(Map p124; %204-3584; fax 204-3583; cnr Av 5 & Hotel Chateau Miramar Hotel $$$
Calle 74; s/d CUC$100/130; pas) Formerly (Map p124; %204-0224; Av 1 btwn Calles 60 & 70,
the Novotel, this 427-room colossus was Playa; s/d CUC$90/125; pais) It’s marketed
taken over by Gaviota a few years back and as a ‘boutique hotel,’ but read between the
has benefited as a result. Professional staff, lines – this château ain’t no Loire Valley
great business facilities and high standards retreat. Still, techno addicts will appreciate
of service throughout are par for the course the free internet, flat-screen TV and direct
here. There are also plenty of sporty extras if international phone service that come with
the isolated location starts to grate, includ- the otherwise mediocre rooms.
ing tennis courts, swimming pool, sauna,
gym and games room.
 126 Playa & Marianao
æ Top Sights 22 Don Cangrejo.......................................... G1
Fundación Naturaleza y El 23 Dos Gardenias ........................................ F2
Hombre ................................................D1 24 El Aljibe.................................................... F2
Museo del Ministero del Interior ...........G1 25 El Lugar ...................................................G3
26 El Palenque ............................................. A1
æ Sights 27 El Tocororo ............................................. G1
Havana Outer H avana

1 Acuario Nacional .................................... E1 La Casa del Habano ..................... (see 46)

2 Iglesia Jesús de Miramar .......................D1 28 La Cecilia................................................. C1
3 Instituto Superior de Arte (ISA) ........... B2 29 La Esperanza .......................................... G1
4 Pabellón para la Marqueta de la 30 Paladar el Palio........................................F1
Capital .................................................. F1 31 Paladar la Cocina de Lilliam .................. E2
5 Palacio de las Convenciones ................ A2 32 Paladar la Fontana ..................................E1
6 Russian Embassy ................................... E1 33 Paladar los Cactus de 33....................... F3
34 Paladar Mi Jardín ....................................E1
ÿ Sleeping 35 Paladar Vista Mar................................... G1
7 Aparthotel Montehabana.......................D1 36 Pan.com.................................................. F2
8 Barceló Habana Ciudad .........................D1 37 Supermercado 70 .................................. D1
Casa Española ..............................(see 24)
9 Hotel Bello Caribe.................................. A3 ý Entertainment
10 Hotel Chateau Miramar ......................... E1 38 Casa de la Música ..................................G2
11 Hotel Copacabana.................................. E1 39 Circo Trompoloco .................................. B1
12 Hotel el Bosque...................................... G3 40 Estadio Pedro Marrero .......................... F3
13 Hotel Kohly..............................................F3 41 Isla del Coco ........................................... B1
14 Hotel Meliá Habana ................................D1 42 Salón Chévere ........................................G3
15 Hotel Palco............................................. A2 43 Salón Rosado Benny Moré (El
16 Marta Rodríguez .....................................F2 Tropical)............................................... F3
17 Occidental Miramar................................D1 44 Teatro Karl Marx .................................... G1
18 Panorama Hotel Havana........................D1
19 Rina & Geraldo ........................................C1 þ Shopping
45 Egrem Tienda de Música ....................... G1
ú Eating 46 La Casa del Habano ...............................G2
Casa Española ..............................(see 23) 47 La Maison................................................G2
20 Complejo Turístico 1830....................... H2 48 La Puntilla ............................................... H1
21 Doctor Cafe............................................. F1 49 Miramar Trade Center........................... D1

Panorama Hotel Habana Hotel $$$ road, the Kohly is similarly priced to El
(Map p124; %204-0100; cnr Av 3 & Calle 70; s/d Bosque and makes up for its utilitarian
CUC$95/120; pais) Gaviota’s flashy ‘glass exterior with an inviting swimming pool
cathedral’ on Playa’s rapidly developing ho- and an excellent pizza restaurant.
tel strip opened in 2003. The rather strange Marta Rodríguez Casa Particular $
aesthetics – acres of blue-tinted glass – im- (Map p124; %203-8596; Calle 42 No 914; r
prove once you step inside the monumen- CUC$40; p) There aren’t many casas in
tal lobby where space-age elevators whisk Miramar, but Marta’s is one that could be
you promptly up to one of 317 airy rooms, worth the trip, offering art-deco beds, TV,
which offer great views over Miramar and VCR, a music system and lots of space.
beyond. Extra facilities include a business
center, a photo shop, numerous restaurants Hotel Copacabana Hotel $$

and a spacious and shapely swimming pool. (%204-1037; Av 1 btwn Calles 44 & 46; s/d
But the Panorama is almost too big: its scale CUC$60/80; pais) Right on the beach,
makes you feel small and gives the place a the Copacabana is back in business after
rather deserted and antiseptic feel. a lengthy 2009–10 refurbishment, though
there’s still a dankness about the whole
Hotel Kohly Hotel $$
establishment, despite its fine ocean-side
(Map p124; %204-0240; cnr Calles 49A & 36
location.
Kohly; s/d CUC$47/63; ais) Just up the
Rina & Geraldo Casa Particular $ prepared food and outrageous prices, once
(Map p124; %202-4112; Av 3A No 8610 btwn you’ve factored in the taxi fare (it’s well out 127
Calles 86 & 88, Playa; r CUC$25-30) A vener- of the way). Bank on a minimum of CUC$20
able casa with loquacious hosts that rents for the house special: chicken breast with
two clean rooms in the vicinity of the mushrooms, olives and cheese.
Miramar Trade Center. If it’s full there’s a
couple more in the same street. Miramar
oEl Aljibe Caribbean $$
Cubanacán

Havana
Outer Havana
(Map p124; %204-1583/4; Av 7 btwn Calles 24 &
There are two hotels in this neighborhood, 26; hnoon-midnight) On paper a humble Pal-
where you might end up if you’re here for an mares restaurant, but in reality a rip-roaring
organized activity/conference. culinary extravaganza, El Aljibe has been de-

E ating
P
Hotel Bello Caribe Hotel $$ lighting both Cuban and foreign diplomatic

laya &E ating

(Map p124; %273-9906; cnr Av 31 & Calle 158; s/d taste buds for years. The furore surrounds
CUC$50/67; pas) Next to the huge Cen- the gastronomic mysteries of just one dish,
tro de Ingenería Genética y Biotecnología, the obligatory pollo asado (roast pork),

M arianao
this hotel has 120 rooms often used by which is served up with as-much-as-you-
foreigners undergoing treatment at the can-eat helpings of white rice, black beans,
nearby medical facilities. fried plantain, French fries and salad. The
Hotel Palco Hotel $$$ accompanying bitter orange sauce is said to
(Map p124; %204-7235; Calle 146 btwn Avs 11 & be a state secret.
13; s/d CUC$91/111; pas) Two kilometers
Paladar la Cocina de Lilliam Paladar $$$
to the north and attached to the Palacio
(Map p124; %209-6514; Calle 48 No 1311 btwn Avs
de las Convenciones, the Palco is a busi-
13 & 15; hnoon-midnight) Slick service, seclud-
ness hotel normally block-booked by
ed ambience and freshly cooked food to die
foreigners in town to attend a conference/
for, La Cocina de Lilliam has all the ingredi-
symposium/product launch.
ents of a prize-winning restaurant. Set in an
marina hemingway illustrious villa in Miramar and surrounded
Hotel Acuario Hotel $$
by a garden with trickling fountains and
(%204-6336; cnr Aviota & Calle 248; s/d lush tropical plants, diners can tuck into
CUC$60/90; a) You really shouldn’t come to such Cuban rarities as chicken mousse and
Marina Hemingway for the hotels. With the tuna bruschetta in an atmosphere more Eu-
El Viejo y el Mar hosting medical patients ropean than Caribbean. Not a cheese-and-
from Latin America, the only real option for ham sandwich in sight!
foreign travelers is the strung-out Acuario, Paladar la Fontana Paladar $$$
splayed between two of the harbor channels (Map p124; %202-8337; Av 3A No 305) Havana
and infested with cheap out-of-date furnish- discovers the barbecue or, more to the point,
ings. If you’re booked for an early morning the full-on charcoal grill. Huge portions of
diving excursion, this place might just qual- meat and fish are served up in this amiable
ify; otherwise stay in Havana and commute. villa-cum-paladar, so go easy on the starters,
which include crab mixed with eggplant,
5 Eating quail eggs and fried chickpeas. La Fontana
Playa contains some of Havana’s and Cuba’s specializes in just about everything you’ll
best surviving paladares, most of them situ- never see elsewhere in Cuba, from lasagna to
ated in beautiful early-20th-century man- huge steaks. Big-shot reviews from the Cigar
sions with alfresco dining options. There are Aficionado and the Chicago Tribune testify
also some surprisingly good state-run res- to the burgeoning legend.
taurants. It’s worth the CUC$5 to CUC$10
taxi fare from the city center to eat out here. La Esperanza Paladar $$$
(Map p124; %202-4361; Calle 16 No 105 btwn Avs 1 &
Playa & Marianao 3; h6:30-11pm, closed Thu) Few would disagree
Paladar los Cactus de 33 Paladar $$$ that the food, ambience and gastronomic
(Map p124; %203-5139; Av 33 No 3405 btwn Calles creativity showcased at this unassuming Mi-
34 & 36, Playa; hnoon-midnight) Reviewed in ramar paladar puts it among Havana’s (and
international lifestyle magazines and used undoubtedly Cuba’s) best eating establish-
as a setting on Cuban TV, this place has im- ments. While unspectacular from the street,
peccable service, elegant surroundings, well-
 the interior of this house is a riot of quirky Paladar Vista Mar Paladar $$
128 antiques, old portraits and refined 1940s (Map p124; %203-8328; Av 1 btwn Calles 22 & 24;
furnishings. The food, which is produced hnoon-midnight) The Paladar Vista Mar in
in a standard-sized family kitchen, includes Miramar is in the 2nd-floor family-room-
such exquisite dishes as pollo luna de miel turned-restaurant of a private residence,
(chicken flambéed in rum), fish marinated which faces the sea. The oceanside ambience
in white wine, lemon and garlic, and a lamb is embellished by a beautiful swimming pool
brochette. that spills its water into the sea. If enjoying
Havana Outer H avana

delicious seafood dishes overlooking the

Pan.com Fast Food $
crashing ocean sounds enticing, this could
(Map p124; %204-4232; cnr Av 7 & Calle 26; be your bag. Most mains run from CUC$8 to
h10am-midnight) Not an internet cafe but a CUC$15 with salad.
haven of Havana comfort food with hearty
sandwiches, fantastic burgers and ice-cream Don Cangrejo Seafood $$
milkshakes to die for. Join the diplomats un- (Map p124; Av 1 No 1606 btwn Calles 16 & 18;
der the airy front canopy. hnoon-midnight) On the seafront, this unique
seafood restaurant is run by the Ministry of
Doctor Café Paladar $$$
Fisheries and scores high points for atmo-
(Map p124; %203-4718; Calle 28 btwn Avs 1 & 3) sphere and service. Fresh fish dishes include
Ceviche, red snapper, grilled octopus and a red snapper, grouper and prawns (CUC$8 to
plant-filled patio as well as an internal area CUC$12), while lobster from the pit on the
for eating; this doctor is obviously getting terrace comes in at CUC$20 to CUC$25.
the treatment spot on. The menu is from all
over the globe, and there are numerous rari- El Tocororo Caribbean, Japanese $$$
ties you’ll find at few other places in Cuba. (Map p124; %202-4530; Calle 18 No 302; meals
Anyone for freshly baked bread? CUC$12-35; hnoon-midnight) Once considered
(along with El Aljibe) to be one of Havana’s
Casa Española Spanish $$
finest government-run restaurants, El To-
(Map p124; %206-9644; cnr Calle 26 & Av 7; hnoon- cororo has lost ground to its competitors in
midnight) A medieval parody built in the Ba- recent years and is often criticized for be-
tista-era by the silly-rich Gustavo Guitérrez ing overpriced. Nonetheless, the candlelit
y Sánchez, this crenellated castle in Miramar tables and inviting garden are still worth a
has found new life as a Spanish-themed visit, while the unprinted menu, with such
restaurant cashing in on the Don Quixote luxuries as lobster’s tail and (occasionally)
legend. The ambience is rather fine, if you ostrich, still has the ability to surprise. El
don’t mind suits of armor watching you as Tocororo also has a small attached sushi bar
you tuck into paella, Spanish omelet or lanja and restaurant called Sakura.
cerdo al Jerez (Jerez-style pork fillet).
El Lugar Caribbean $
Paladar Mi Jardín Paladar, Mexican $$
(Map p124; cnr Calles 49C & 28A; hnoon-mid-
(Map p124; %203-4627; Calle 66 No 517; hnoon- night) Set in Parque Almendares just across
midnight) The rare Cuban menu – it offers the road from the river below the bridge,
chicken mole or tacos and quesadillas – this place is fantastic value, offering juicy
makes this Mexican place a keeper. Dining pork filets, a Pico Turquino of congrí (rice
beneath the vine-covered trellis in the gar- flecked with black beans), salad, tostones
den is recommended, as is the house special: (fried plantain patties), ice cream and coffee.
fish Veracruz. There’s music in the evenings.
Paladar el Palio Paladar $$ La Casa del Habano Caribbean $$
(Map p124; %202-9867; Av 1 No 2402; hnoon- (Map p124; cnr Av 5 & Calle 16, Miramar) Most
midnight) Next door to the Vista Mar, El Palio head here for its reputation as Havana’s best
offers a similar deal with seating options cigar store, but repeat visitors come back for
either inside in a small but tasteful dining the food in the adjoining restaurant.
room or outside in an equally small and Dos Gardenias Caribbean $$
tasteful garden within earshot of the At- (Map p124; cnr Av 7 & Calle 28; hnoon-midnight)
lantic waves. The necessarily spontaneous You can choose from a grill or a pasta res-
paladar menu is anchored by seafood, but taurant in this complex, which is famous
contains the odd surprise such as rabbit. as a bolero hot-spot. Stick around to hear
the singers belting out ballads later on.
 PaladarEs – A Unique Breed 129

Going to a paladar – a private Cuban restaurant – has always been about far more than
just eating. Firstly, there’s the pot-luck of the surroundings: a kitschy family dining room,
a romantic ocean-side patio, or – if you arrive on the wrong day – a bolted, darkened
room at the end of a narrow passageway. Then there’s the exciting air of subterfuge,
the vague notion that what goes on here occupies an unfathomable grey area between
what’s legal and what’s not. Best of all, however, is the food. First established in 1995

Havana
Outer Havana
during the economic chaos of the Special Period, paladares owe much of their success
to the bold experimentation of local chefs, who, despite a paucity of decent ingredients,
have heroically managed to keep the age-old traditions of Cuban cooking alive.
Despite international acclaim, plus a slew of famous guests (Jimmy Carter, the Queen

E ating
P laya &E ating
of Spain and numerous US Congressmen) and glowing reviews (The New York Times
and Cigar Aficionado to name but two), paladares felt the pinch in the early 2000s and
many old stalwarts closed. Problems ranged from high taxes and more rigid inspections

M arianao
to greater competition from credible government-run places, particularly in the more
touristy areas of Havana.
By the late 2000s, one of the last bastions of Paladar heaven was Playa, an area which
still listed a good half-dozen highly reputable restaurants across its splayed suburbs.
Vedado was down to scanter fare, while Centro Havana was still showcasing the shabby-
chic poster child of all paladares, La Guarida. But, with a new law easing restrictions on
private business passed in January 2011, paladars look set for a triumphant rebirth.

Supermercado 70 Supermarket $ La Ferminia Caribbean $$$

(Map p124; cnr Av 3 & Calle 70; h9am-6pm (%273-6786; Av 5 No 18207, Flores) Havana gets
Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun) Still known as the swanky at this memorable restaurant set in
‘Diplomercado’ from the days when only an elegant converted colonial mansion in
diplomats came here, this place is large the leafy neighborhood of Flores. Dine inside
by Cuban standards and has a wide in one of a handful of beautifully furnished
selection. rooms, or outside on a glorious garden pa-
tio – it doesn’t matter. The point is the food.
Cubanacán Try the mixed grill, pulled straight from the
La Cecilia Caribbean $$ fire, or lobster tails pan-fried in breadcrumbs.
(Map p124; %204-1562; Av 5 No 11010 btwn Calles There’s a strict dress code here: no shorts or
110 & 112; hnoon-midnight) All-time Havana sleeveless T-shirts (guys). It’s one of the few
classic, this classy place is up there with places where Fidel Castro has dined in public.
El Aljibe in terms of food quality (check
out the ropa vieja), but trumps all comers marina hemingway
with its big-band music, which blasts out on Restaurante la Cova Italian $$
weekend nights inside its large but atmo- (cnr Av 5 & Calle 248; hnoon-midnight) In Mari-
spheric courtyard. na Hemingway, this place vies with Paladar
Piccolo in Playas del Este as Havana’s best
El Palenque CUban, Italian $$ pizza joint. Part of the Pizza Nova chain, it
(%208-8167; cnr Av 17A & Calle 190; Siboney; also does fish, meat and rigatoni a la vodka
h10am-10pm) A huge place, next to the (CUC$8). The pepperoni topping is purport-
Pabexpo exhibition center, that sprawls edly flown in from Canada.
beneath a series of open-sided thatched bo-
híos (traditional Cuban huts), the Palenque Papa’s Complejo
offers an extensive menu at prices cheap Turístico Caribbean, Chinese $$
enough to attract both Cubans and for- (cnr Av 5 & Calle 248; hnoon-3am) There’s all
eigners. The cuisine is Cuban/Italian, with sorts of stuff going on here, from beer-swill-
pizzas starting at CUC$3, steak and fries ing boatmen to warbling American Idol
coming in at CUC$9 and lobster mariposa wannabes hogging the karaoke machine.
maxing out at CUC$22. The eating options are equally varied, with a
posh Chinese place (with dress code) and an
outdoor ranchón (rural restaurant). Good
fun if there’s enough people.
 3 Entertainment travelers pay pesos, others dollars – more of
130 Miramar that Cuban randomness for you.
Teatro Karl Marx live Music, Circo Trompoloco Circus
(Map p124; %203-0801, 209-1991; cnr Av 1 & Calle (Map p124; cnr Av 5 & Calle 112, Playa; admission
10) Size-wise the Karl Marx puts other Ha- CUC$10; h7pm Thu-Sun) Havana’s permanent
vana theaters in the shade with a seating ‘Big Top’ with a weekend matinee.
capacity of 5500 in a single auditorium. The
Estadio Pedro Marrero Sports
very biggest events happen here, such as the
(Map p124; cnr Av 41 & Calle 46, Kohly) Foot-
Havana Outer H avana

closing galas for the jazz and film festivals

ball – or is it soccer in Cuba? Come over
and rare concerts by trovadores like Silvio
on weekends at 3pm to this 15,000-seat
Rodríguez. In 2001 it hosted Welsh rockers
stadium and watch them dance down the
the Manic Street Preachers, the first Western
wings.
rock band to play live on the island (with Fi-
del Castro in the audience). La Lisa
Casa de la Música nightclub, live music Sala de Fiesta Macumba
(Map p124; %202-6147; Calle 20 No 3308 cnr Habana Nightclub

Av 35; admission CUC$5-20; h10pm Tue-Sat) (cnr Calle 222 & Av 37; admission CUC$10-20;
Launched with a concert by renowned h10pm) Cocooned in a residential neighbor-
jazz pianist Chucho Valdés in 1994, this hood southwest of Cubanacán is Macumba,
Miramar favorite is run by national Cuban one of Havana’s biggest venues for live salsa.
recording company, Egrem, and the pro- The outdoor setting is refreshing and the
grams are generally a lot more authentic sets are long, so you’ll get a lot of dancing
than the cabaret entertainment you see at in. This is a great place to catch jazz-salsa
the hotels. Platinum players such as NG la combos and timba music, a modern exten-
Banda, Los Van Van and Aldaberto Álvarez sion of salsa mixed with jazz and rap and
y Su Son play here regularly; you’ll rarely championed by NG la Banda (who perform
pay more than CUC$20. It has a more re- here regularly). You can also dine at La Gira-
laxed atmosphere than its Centro Habana dilla in the same complex.
namesake. Salón Chévere Nightclub
(Map p124; Parque Almendares, cnr Calles 49C &
Marianao 28A; admission CUC$6-10; hfrom 10pm) One of
Tropicana Nightclub Cabaret Havana’s most popular discos, this alfresco
(off Map p124; %267-1871; Calle 72 No 4504; place in a lush park setting hosts a good
h10pm) A city institution since it opened in mix of locals and tourists.
1939, the world-famous Tropicana was one of
the few bastions of Havana’s Las Vegas-style
nightlife to survive the clampdowns of the
7 Shopping
puritanical Castro Revolution. Immortalized La Casa del Habano Cigars

in Graham Greene’s 1958 classic Our Man (Map p124; Av 5 cnr Calle 16, Miramar; h10am-
in Havana, this open-air cabaret show is 6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun) Smokers and
little changed since its ’50s heyday, featuring souvenir seekers will like La Casa, argu-
a bevy of scantily clad señoritas who climb ably Havana’s top cigar store. You’ll find
nightly down from the palm trees to dance a comfy smoking lounge and a decent
Latin salsa amid colorful flashing lights on restaurant here as well.
stage. Tickets go for a slightly less than social- La Maison Clothing
istic CUC$70. (Map p124; Calle 16 No 701, Miramar) The Cuban
fashion fascination is in high gear at this
Salón Rosado Benny Moré live music
place, with a large boutique selling de-
(Map p124; El Tropical; %206-1281; cnr Avs 41 signer clothing, shoes, handbags, jewelry,
& Calle 46, Kohly; admission 10 pesos-CUC$10; cosmetics and souvenirs.
h9pm-late) For something completely differ-
ent, check out the very caliente action at this Egrem Tienda de
outdoor venue. The Rosado (aka El Tropical) Música Music Store

packs in hot, sexy Cuban youths dancing (Map p124; Calle 18 No 103, Miramar; h9am-
madly to Los Van Van, Pupi y Su Son Son 6pm Mon-Sat) There’s a small CD-outlet
or Habana Abierta. It’s a fierce scene and here hidden in leafy Miramar at the site
female travelers should expect aggressive of Havana’s most celebrated recording
come-ons. Friday to Sunday is best. Some studios.
Casa de la Música Music Store Cubanacán (%204-8500) Desk in Hotel Meliá
(Map p124; Calle 20 No 3308 cnr Av 35, Miramar; Habana. 131
h10am-10pm) A small musical outlet graces Gaviota (%204-4411; cnr Av 49 & Calle 36,
Miramar’s famous music venue. Kohly)
Miramar Trade Center Shopping Center
(Map p124; Av 3 btwn Calles 76 & 80) Cuba’s 8 Getting There & Away

largest and most modern shopping and The best way to get to Playa from Havana is on
business center houses myriad stores, the Havana Bus Tour (see p121), which plies

Havana
Outer Havana
airline offices and embassies. most of the neighborhoods’ highlights all the
way to Marina Hemingway. Coming from Habana
La Puntilla Shopping Center
Vieja or Centro Habana, you’ll need to change
(Map p124; Calle A cnr Av 1) Decade-old shop- buses at Plaza de la Revolución. Plenty of metro
ping center spread over four floors at the

S h o pping
Parque
buses make the trip, though they often ply the
Vedado end of Miramar; fairly comprehen- more residential neighborhoods (see p121).
sive by Cuban standards.
8 Getting Around

S Lhenin

8 Information

o pping
Cubacar (%204-1707) has offices at the Chateau
Internet Access Miramar and the Meliá Habana hotels. Rental is
Hotel Business Centers (Hotel Meliá Habana; around CUC$70 per day with insurance.

A rea
Av 3 btwn Calles 76 & 80, Miramar) Meliá Ha- Vía Rent a Car (%204-3606; cnr Avs 47 &
bana charges CUC$7 per half-hour for internet 36, Kohly) has an office opposite the Hotel el
access. Also try the Aparthotel Montehabana Bosque.
(p125) and the Occidental Miramar (p125). There are Servi-Cupet gas stations at Av 31
between Calles 18 and 20 in Miramar, on the cor-
Medical Services ner of Calle 72 and Av 41 in Marianao (near the
Clínica Central Cira García (%204-2811; Calle Tropicana), as well as on the traffic circle at Av 5
20 No 4101 cnr Av 41, Playa; h9am-4pm Mon- and Calle 112 in Cubanacán. The Oro Negro gas
Fri, emergencies 24hr) Emergency, dental and station is at Av 5 and Calle 120 in Cubanacán. All
medical consultations for foreigners (consulta- are open 24 hours.
tions CUC$25 to CUC$35).
Farmacia Internacional Miramar (%204-
4350; cnr Calles 20 & 43, Playa; h9am-
5:45pm) Across the road from Clínica Central
Parque Lenin Area
Cira García. Parque Lenin, off the Calzada de Bejucal in
Pharmacy (%204-2880; Calle 20 No 4104 cnr Arroyo Naranjo, 20km south of central Ha-
Calle 43, Playa; h24hr) In Clínica Central Cira vana, is the city’s largest recreational area.
García; one of the city’s best. Constructed between 1969 and 1972 on the
orders of Celia Sánchez, a long-time associ-
Money
ate of Fidel Castro, it is one of the few de-
Banco Financiero Internacional Miramar velopments in Havana from this era. The
(Sierra Maestra Bldg, cnr Av 1 & Calle 0); Playa
670 hectares of green parkland and beauti-
(cnr Av 5 & Calle 92)
ful old trees surround an artificial lake, the
Cadeca Miramar (Av 5A btwn Calles 40 & 42);
Embalse Paso Sequito, just west of the much
Playa (%204-9087; cnr Av 3 & Calle 70)
larger Embalse Ejército Rebelde, which was
Post formed by damming the Río Almendares.
DHL (cnr Av 1 & Calle 26, Miramar; h8am- Although the park itself is attractive
8pm) enough, the mishmash of facilities inside
Post office (Calle 42 No 112 btwn Avs 1 & 3, has fallen on hard times since the onset
Miramar; h8am-11:30am & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, of the Special Period. Taxi drivers will wax
8am-11:30am Sat) nostalgic about when ‘Lenin’ was an idyllic
weekend getaway for scores of pleasure-
Tourist Information
seeking Havana families, though these days
Infotur (cnr Av 5 & Calle 112, Playa; h8:30am-
5pm Mon-Sat, 8:30am-noon Sun) Oddly located
the place retains more of a neglected and
but informative office. surreal air. Fortunately, help is on the way.
New management and millions of pesos of
Travel Agencies Chinese investment are currently financing
All of the following agencies sell the organized a major renovation project, but it’s a big job
tours listed in the Downtown Havana section that’s still a long way from completion.
(see p118).
 132
1 Sights vegetarian buffet is served (a rare treat in
Parque Lenin Park
Cuba). The tractor train ride around the
The main things to see in the park are south park departs four times a day and costs
of the lake, including the Galería de Arte CUC$3, gardens admission included. Park-
Amelia Peláez (admission CUC$1). Up the hill ing costs CUC$2.
there’s a dramatic white marble monument Parque Zoológico Nacional Zoo
to Lenin (1984) by the Soviet sculptor LE (adult/child CUC$3/2; h9am-3:30pm Wed-Sun)
Kerbel, and west along the lake is an over- Let’s face it: you don’t come to Cuba to see
Havana Outer H avana

grown amphitheater and an aquarium (ad- elephants and lions, do you? The Special
mission CUC$2; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun, closed Mon) Period was particularly tough on the is-
with freshwater fish and crocodiles. The land’s zoo animals, and a visit to this park
1985 bronze monument to Celia Sánchez, on Av Zoo-Lenin in Boyeros, 2km west of
who was instrumental in having Parque the Parque Lenin riding school, only bears
Lenin built, is rather hidden beyond the out this fact. Though the zoo grounds are
aquarium. A ceramics workshop is nearby. extensive and some fauna such as rhinos
Most of these attractions are open 9am and hippos roam relatively free, the park is
to 5pm Tuesday to Sunday, and admission hardly the Serengeti, and many of the ani-
to the park itself is free. You can sometimes mals languish in cramped cages. A trolley
rent a rowboat on the Embalse Paso Sequi- bus tours the grounds all day (included in
to from a dock behind the Rodeo Nacional, admission price).
an arena where some of Cuba’s best rodeos
take place (the annual Cattlemen’s fair is
also held here). A 9km narrow-gauge rail-
2 Activities
Club Hípico
way with four stops operates inside the park Iberoamericano Horseback Riding
from 10am to 3pm Wednesday to Sunday. (Parque Lenin; h9am-5pm) This is in the
ExpoCuba Exhibition Hall northwestern corner of Parque Lenin.
(admission CUC$1; h9am-5pm Wed-Sun) A visit Horseback riding through the park on a
to Parque Lenin can be combined with a steed rented from the club costs CUC$12
trip to ExpoCuba at Calabazar on the Car- an hour, but horses rented from boys at the
retera del Rocío in Arroyo Naranjo, 3km nearby amusement park, or at the entrance
south of Las Ruinas restaurant. Opened to Parque Lenin proper (you’ll be besieged),
in 1989, this large permanent exhibition costs CUC$3 per hour, guide included.
showcases Cuba’s economic and scientific Watch out for undernourished or maltreat-
achievements in 25 pavilions based on ed horses.
themes such as sugar, farming, apiculture, Club de Golf la Habana Golf Club
animal science, fishing, construction, food, (Carretera de Venta, Km 8, Reparto Capdevila, Boye-
geology, sports and defense. Cubans visiting ros; h8am-8pm) The club lies between Veda-
ExpoCuba flock to the amusement park do and the airport. Poor signposting makes
at the center of the complex, bypassing the it hard to find and most taxi drivers get lost
rather dry propaganda displays. Don Cuba looking: ask locals for directions to the golf-
(%57-82-87), a revolving restaurant, is atop
ito or Dilpo Golf Club. Originally titled the
a tower. The Feria Internacional de la Ha- Rover’s Athletic Club, it was established by a
bana, Cuba’s largest trade fair, is held at group of British diplomats in the 1920s, and
ExpoCuba in the first week of November. the diplomatic corps is largely the clientele
Parking is available at Gate E, at the south today. There are nine holes with 18 tees to
end of the complex (CUC$1). allow 18-hole rounds. Green fees start at
Jardín Botánico Nacional Botanical Garden CUC$20 for nine holes and CUC$30 for 18
(admission CUC$1; h8:30am-4:30pm Wed-Sun) holes, with extra for clubs, cart and caddie.
Across the highway from ExpoCuba is this In addition, the club has five tennis courts
600-hectare botanical garden. The Pabel- and a bowling alley (hnoon-11pm). Fidel and
lones de Exposición (1987), near the entry Che Guevara played a round here once as a
gate, is a series of greenhouses with cacti publicity stunt soon after the Cuban missile
and tropicals, while 2km beyond is the crisis in 1962. The photos of the event are
garden’s highlight, the tranquil Japanese still popular. Che won – apparently.
Garden (1992). Nearby is the celebrated
Restaurante el Bambú (p133), where a
4 Sleeping & Eating and salads, root vegetables, tamales and
133
Las Ruinas Caribbean $$$
eggplant caviar.
(Cortina de la Presa; h11am-midnight Tue-Sun)
One of Havana’s most celebrated restaurants 8 Getting There & Away

– at least in an architectural sense – is situ- Your public transport choices to Parque Lenin
ated on the southeast side of Parque Lenin. are bus, car or taxi. The bus isn’t easy. The P-13
Melding off-beat modern architecture, in- will get you close, but to catch it you have to first
cluding some eye-catching stained glass by get to Vibora. The best way to do this is to get

Havana
Outer Havana
Cuban artist René Portocarrero, onto the on the P-9 at Calles 23 and L. Havana taxi driv-
ruins of an old sugar mill, this place has an ers are used to this run and it should be easy to
negotiate a rate with stops for CUC$25 and up.
arty and elegant atmosphere, though the
food (which is grossly overpriced) doesn’t

S leeping
8 Getting Around

antiag
quite live up to the lavish setting. The menu
includes lobster plus a selection of Cuban There’s a Servi-Cupet gas station on the corner
and Italian dishes, and you’ll be lucky to get of Av de la Independencia and Calle 271 in Boye-

S leeping
much change out of CUC$30. Overrated. ros, north of the airport. It’s accessible only from

o &deE ating
the northbound lane and is open 24 hours a day.
Restaurante el Bambú Vegetarian $$$

las &V Eegas

(Jardín Botánico Nacional; hnoon-5pm, closed
Mon; v) This is the first and finest example Santiago de las Vegas Area
of vegetarian dining in Havana, and has
While not exactly brimming with tourist po-

ating
been a leading advocate for the benefits of
tential, downbeat and dusty Santiago de las
a meatless diet (a tough call in the ration-
Vegas offers a fleeting glimpse of Cuba that

A rea
card economy of Cuba). The all-you-can-eat
isn’t featured in coffee-table photo spreads.
lunch buffet is served alfresco, deep in the
Visitors, if they come here at all, usually en-
botanical gardens, with the natural setting
counter this settlement – a curious amalga-
paralleling the wholesome tastiness of the
mation of small town and sleepy city suburb
food. For CUC$15 you can gorge on soups
– every December during the 5000-strong

Museo Hemingway
There’s only one reason to visit the mundane if tranquil Havana suburb of San Francisco
de Paula – the Museo Hemingway (unguided/guided CUC$3/4, camera/video CUC$5/25;
h9am-4:30pm Wed-Mon). In 1939 US novelist Ernest Hemingway rented a villa called Fin-
ca la Vigía on a hill at San Francisco de Paula, 15km southeast of central Havana. A year
later he bought the house (1888) and property and lived there continuously until 1960,
when he moved back to the US.
The villa’s interior has remained unchanged since the day Hemingway left (there are
lots of stuffed trophies), and the wooded estate is now a museum. Hemingway left his
house and its contents to the ‘Cuban people,’ and his house has been the stimulus for
some rare shows of US-Cuban cooperation. In 2002 Cuba agreed to a US-funded project
to digitalize the documents stored in the basement of Finca la Vigía, and in May 2006
Cuba sent 11,000 of Hemingway’s private documents to the JFK Presidential Library
in America for digitalization. This literary treasure trove (including a previously unseen
epilogue for For Whom the Bell Tolls) was finally made available online in January 2009.
To prevent the pilfering of objects, visitors are not allowed inside the house, but there
are enough open doors and windows to allow a proper glimpse into Papa’s universe.
There are books everywhere (including beside the toilet), a large Victrola and record
collection, and an astounding number of knickknacks. Don’t come when it’s raining
as the house itself will be closed. A stroll through the garden is worthwhile to see the
surprisingly sentimental dog cemetery, Hemingway’s fishing boat El Pilar and the pool
where actress Ava Gardner once swam naked. You can chill out on a chaise lounge below
whispering palms and bamboo here.
To reach San Francisco de Paula, take metro bus P-7 (Cotorro) from the Capitolio in Cen-
tro Habana. Tell the driver you’re going to the museum. You get off in San Miguel del Padrón.
 devotional crawl to the Santuario de San municipality of Regla, has a long and color-
134 Lázaro (named after a Christian saint ful history. Inside on the main altar you’ll
known for his ministrations to lepers and find La Santísima Virgen de Regla, a black
the poor) in the nearby village of El Rincón. Madonna venerated in the Catholic faith
and associated in the Santería religion with
1 Sights Yemayá, the orisha (spirit) of the ocean and
Mausoleo de Antonio Maceo Monument the patron of sailors (always represented in
On a hilltop at El Cacahual, 8km south of blue). Legend claims that this image was
Havana Outer H avana

Aeropuerto Internacional José Martí via San- carved by St Augustine ‘The African’ in the
tiago de las Vegas, is the little-visited mau- 5th century, and that in the year AD 453 a
soleum of the hero of Cuban independence, disciple brought the statue to Spain to safe-
General Antonio Maceo, who was killed in guard it from barbarians. The small vessel
the Battle of San Pedro near Bauta on De- in which the image was traveling survived
cember 7, 1896. An open-air pavilion next to a storm in the Strait of Gibraltar, so the fig-
the mausoleum shelters a historical exhibit. ure was recognized as the patron of sailors.
These days rafters attempting to reach the
Santuario de San Lázaro Church US also evoke the protection of the Black
(Carretera San Antonio de los Baños) The focus Virgin.
of Cuba’s biggest annual pilgrimage lacks To shelter a copy of the image, a hut was
ostentation and is tucked away in the rus- first built on this site in 1687 by a pilgrim
tic village of El Rincón. The saint inside the named Manuel Antonio. But this structure
church is San Lázaro (also known as Babalú was destroyed during a hurricane in 1692.
Ayé; an orisha in the Santería religion), the A few years later a Spaniard named Juan de
patron saint of healing and the sick. Without Conyedo built a stronger chapel, and in 1714
irony, the large Los Cocos sanatorium hous- Nuestra Señora de Regla was proclaimed
ing lepers and AIDS patients is next door. patron of the Bahía de la Habana. In 1957
the image was crowned by the Cuban Car-
8 Getting There & Away
dinal in Havana cathedral. Every year on
To get here, take bus P-12 from the Capitolio or September 8 thousands of pilgrims descend
bus P-16 from outside Hospital Hermanos Amei- on Regla to celebrate the saint’s day, and the
jeiras just off the Malecón. image is taken out for a procession through
the streets.
The current church dates from the early
Regla 19th century and is always busy with devo-
pop 42,390 tees from both religions stooping in silent
The old town of Regla, just across the har- prayer before the images of the saints that
bor from Habana Vieja, is an industrial port fill the alcoves. In Havana, there is probably
town known as a center of Afro-Cuban reli- no better (public) place to see the layering
gions, including the all-male secret society and transference between Catholic beliefs
Abakúa. Long before the triumph of the and African traditions.
1959 Revolution, Regla was known as the
Museo Municipal de Regla Museum
Sierra Chiquita (Little Sierra, after the Sierra
(Martí No 158; admission CUC$2; h9am-5pm Mon-
Maestra) for its revolutionary traditions.
Sat, 9am-1pm Sun) If you’ve come across to see
This working-class neighborhood is also no-
the church, you should also check out this
table for a large thermoelectric power plant
quirky museum, which is spread over two
and shipyard. Regla is almost free of tourist
sites, one adjacent to the church and the
trappings, and makes an easily reachable af-
other (better half) a couple of blocks up
ternoon trip away from the city; the skyline
the main street from the ferry. Recording
views from this side of the harbor offer a dif-
the history of Regla and its Afro-Cuban re-
ferent perspective.
ligions, there’s an interesting, small exhibit
1 Sights on Remigio Herrero, first babalawo (priest)
of Regla, and a bizarre statue of Napoleon
Iglesia de Nuestra Señora with his nose missing. Price of admission
de Regla Church
includes both museum outposts and the Co-
(h7:30am-6pm) As important as it is diminu- lina Lenin exhibit.
tive, Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de Regla,
which lies just behind the boat dock in the
Colina Lenin Monument Today, Guanabacoa is a sleepy yet colorful
From the museum, head straight (south) place that can be tied in with an excursion 135
on Martí past Parque Guaicanamar, and to nearby Regla (easily accessible by ferry).
turn left on Albuquerque and right on 24
de Febrero, the road to Guanabacoa. About 1 Sights
1.5km from the ferry you’ll see a high metal Iglesia de Guanabacoa Church
stairway that gives access to Colina Lenin. (cnr Pepe Antonio & Adolfo del Castillo Cadenas) The
One of two monuments in Havana to Vladi- church on Parque Martí in the center of town,

Havana
Outer Havana
mir Ilyich Ulyanov (better known to his is also known as the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora
friends and enemies as Lenin), this monu- de la Asunción, and was designed by Lorenzo
ment was conceived in 1924 by the socialist Camacho and built between 1721 and 1748
mayor of Regla, Antonio Borsch, to honor with a Moorish-influenced wooden ceiling.

S ights
G
Lenin’s death (in the same year). Above a The gilded main altar and nine lateral altars

uanabac
monolithic image of the man is an olive are worth a look, and there is a painting of the
tree planted by Bosch, surrounded by seven Assumption of the Virgin at the back. In typi-

S ights
lithe figures. There are fine harbor views cal Cuban fashion, the main doors are usually
from the hilltop. locked; knock at the parochial office (h8-

oa
11am & 2-5pm Mon-Fri) out back if you’re keen.
8 Getting There & Away

Museo Municipal de Guanabacoa Museum
Regla is easily accessible on the passenger ferry
(Martí No 108; admission CUC$2; h10am-6pm
that departs every 15 minutes (CUC$0.25) from
Mon & Wed-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun) The town’s main
Muelle Luz at the intersection of San Pedro and
Santa Clara, in Habana Vieja. Bicycles are readily sight is the renovated museum two blocks
accepted via a separate line that boards first. west of Parque Martí. Founded in 1964, it
Bus 29 runs to Guanabacoa from Parque Maceo tracks the development of the neighborhood
between the ferry terminal and the Museo Mu- throughout the 18th and 19th centuries and
nicipal de Regla. is famous for its rooms on Afro-Cuban cul-
ture, slavery and the Santería religion, with
a particular focus on the orisha Elegguá.
Guanabacoa The museum has another arm further west
pop 106,374 along Calle Martí in the Museo de Mártires
Guanabacoa is the little village that got swal- (Martí No 320; admission free; h10am-6pm Tue-
lowed up by the big city. In spite of this, the Sat, 9am-1pm Sun), which displays material
settlement’s main thoroughfare, diminutive relevant to the Cuban Revolution.
Parque Martí, still retains a faintly bucolic
small-town air. Locals call it el pueblo em- 5 Eating
brujado (the bewitched town) for its strong oCentro Cultural
Santería traditions, though there are in- Recreativo los Orishas Caribbean $$
digenous associations too. In the 1540s the (cnr Martí & Lamas; admission CUC$3; h10am-
Spanish conquerors concentrated the few midnight) Situated in the hotbed of Havana’s
surviving Taínos at Guanabacoa, 5km east Santería community, this funky bar-restau-
of central Havana, making it one of Cuba’s rant hosts live rumba music at weekends,
first official pueblos Indios (Indian towns). including regular visits from the Conjunto
A formal settlement was founded in 1607, Folklórico Nacional. The pleasant garden
and this later became a center of the slave bar is surrounded by colorful Afro-Cuban
trade. In 1762 the British occupied Guanaba- sculptures that depict various Santería
coa, but not without a fight from its mayor, deities such as Babalou Aye, Yemayá and
José Antonio Gómez Bulones (better known Changó. Well off the beaten track and hard
as Pepe Antonio), who attained almost leg- to get to at night, this quirky music venue
endary status by conducting a guerrilla is usually visited by foreigners in groups.
campaign behind the lines of the victorious It also does a good selection of food from a
British. José Martí supposedly gave his first CUC$1 pizza to CUC$20 lobster.
public speech here, and it was also the birth-
place of the versatile Cuba singer Rita Mon- Los Ibelly Heladería Ice cream $
taner (1900–58), after whom the Casa de la (Adolfo del Castillo Cadenas No 5a; h10am-10pm)
Cultura is named. As close as Guanabacoa gets to the Cop-
pelia, with quick-serve ice cream.
 8 Getting There & Away
sized swimming pools and other sporting
136 Bus P-15 from the Capitolio in Centro Habana facilities nearby.
goes to Guanabacoa via Av del Puerto. Alterna-
tively, you can walk uphill from Regla, at which Torreón de Cojímar Fort

the Havana ferry docks, to Guanabacoa (or vice Overlooking the harbor is an old Spanish
versa) in about 45 minutes, passing Colina Lenin fort (1649) presently occupied by the Cuban
on the way. Coast Guard. It was the first fortification
taken by the British when they attacked Ha-
vana from the rear in 1762. Next to this tow-
Havana Outer H avana

Cojímar Area er and framed by a neoclassical archway is a

gilded bust of Ernest Hemingway, erected
Situated 10km east of Havana is the little
by the residents of Cojímar in 1962.
port town of Cojímar, famous for harbor-
ing Ernest Hemingway’s fishing boat El Pi- Alamar Neighborhood
lar in the 1940s and ’50s. This picturesque, East across the river from Cojímar is a
if slightly run-down, harbor community large housing estate of prefabricated apart-
served as the prototype for the fishing vil- ment blocks built by micro brigadas (small
lage in Hemingway’s novel The Old Man armies of workers responsible for building
and the Sea, which won him the Nobel Prize much of the postrevolutionary housing),
for Literature in 1954. It was founded in the beginning in 1971. This is the birthplace of
17th century at the mouth of the Río Cojí- Cuban rap and the annual hip-hop festival is
mar. In 1762 an invading British army land- still centered here.
ed here on its way through to take Havana;
in 1994 thousands of ‘rafters’ split from the 4 Sleeping
sheltered but rocky bay, lured to Florida by Hotel Panamericano Hotel $
US radio broadcasts and promises of politi- (%95-10-00/10; s/d incl breakfast CUC$28/44;
cal asylum. pas) This four-story ugly duckling was
To the southwest of Cojímar just off the used as the accommodations for the 1991
Vía Blanca is the rather ugly sporting com- Pan-American Games (thank God Havana
plex and athletes’ village built when Cuba isn’t hosting the Olympics). Inconveniently
staged the 1991 Pan-American Games. located and rough around the edges, the
Panamericano establishment was due to
1 Sights reopen at the time of writing after a spell
Estadio Panamericano Sports Stadium housing Operación Milagros (whereby
The huge 55,000-seat stadium on the Vía Cuba’s medical system offered free eye op-
Monumental between Havana and Cojímar, erations for tens of thousands of nationals).
was built for the 1991 Pan-American Games Call ahead to check the status.
and is already looking prematurely dilapi-
dated. There are also tennis courts, Olympic-

Santa María del Rosario

Santa María del Rosario, 19km southeast of central Havana, is an old colonial town
founded in 1732. Unlike most other towns from that period, it has not become engulfed
in modern suburbs, but stands alone in the countryside. The charms of this area were
recognized by one of Cuba’s greatest living painters, Manuel Mendive, who selected it for
his personal residence. You can also see the local countryside in Tomás Gutiérrez Alea’s
film La última cena, a metaphorical critique of slavery.
Also called the Catedral de los Campos de Cuba the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora
del Rosario (h5:30-7:30pm), on Santa María del Rosario’s old town square, was built in
1720 by the Conde de Casa Bayona near the Quiebra Hacha sugar mill, of which nothing
remains today. Inside are a gilded mahogany altar and a painting by Veronese. It is one of
suburban Havana’s most attractive secrets.
From the Capitolio in Centro Habana take the metro bus P-7 to Cotorro and then bus
97, which runs from Guanabacoa to Santa María del Rosario.
5 Eating Santa Clara in Habana Vieja, about every 15
137
Restaurante la Terraza Seafood $$$
minutes (CUC$0.25). Bicycles are welcome.
(Calle 152 No 161; hnoon-11pm) Another pho- The Casablanca train station, next to the
to-adorned shrine to the ghost of Ernest ferry wharf, is the western terminus of the
Hemingway, La Terraza specializes in sea- only electric railway in Cuba. In 1917 the
food and does a roaring trade from the Hershey Chocolate Company of the US state
hordes of Papa fans who pour in daily. The of Pennsylvania built this line to Matanzas.
terrace dining room overlooking the bay is Trains still depart for Matanzas three times

Havana
Outer Havana
pleasant. More atmospheric, however, is the a day (at 6:11am, 12:27pm, 5:51pm). You’ll
old bar out front, where mojitos haven’t yet travel via Guanabo (CUC$0.75, 25km), Her-
reached El Floridita rates. The food is sur- shey (CUC$1.40, 46km), Jibacoa (CUC$1.65,
prisingly mediocre. 54km) and Canasí (CUC$1.95, 65km) to

E ating
C
Matanzas (CUC$2.80, 90km) and dozens of

asablanca
Just down from the Hotel Panamericano
is a bakery (h8am-8pm). Across the Paseo smaller stations. No one on a tight sched-
Panamericano is a grocery store, the Mini- ule should use this train; it usually leaves

E ating
Super Caracol (h9am-8pm), and a clean Casablanca on time but often arrives an
and reasonably priced Italian restaurant hour late. Bikes aren’t officially allowed. It’s
Allegro (hnoon-11pm), which offers lasagna, a scenic four-hour trip (on a good day), and
risotto, spaghetti and pizza, all for under tickets are easily obtainable at the station.
CUC$5.

8 Information
Playas del Este
Bandec (h8:30am-3pm Mon-Fri, 8:30-11am In Cuba you’re never far from an idyllic
Sat), which is just down the Paseo Panameri- beach. Havana’s very own pine-fringed Riv-
cano, changes traveler’s checks and gives cash iera, Playas del Este, begins just 18km to
advances. the east of the capital at the small resort of
Bacuranao, before continuing east through
8 Getting There & Away
Tarará, El Mégano, Santa María del Mar
and Boca Ciega to the town of Guanabo.
Metro bus P-8 goes to the Villa Panamericano
from the Capitolio in Centro Habana. From the
Although none of these places has so far
hotel it’s around 2km downhill through the vil- witnessed the kind of megadevelopment
lage to the Hemingway bust. redolent of Cancún or Varadero, Playas del
Este is still a popular tourist drawcard. Dur-
ing the summer months of July and August,
Casablanca all of Havana comes to play and relax on the
soft white sands and clear aquamarine wa-
Casablanca, just across the harbor from Ha- ters of the beautiful Atlantic coastline.
bana Vieja and in the shadow of La Cabaña While the beaches might be postcard-
fort, is a small village surrounded by urban- perfect, Playas del Este can’t yet boast the
ization. It’s dominated by a white marble all-round tourist facilities of other Cuban re-
statue of Christ (Estatua de Cristo; Map sorts such as Varadero and Cayo Coco, much
p65), created in 1958 by Jilma Madera. It less the all-out luxury of celebrated Carib-
was promised to President Batista by his bean getaways. Come here in the winter and
wife after the US-backed dictator survived the place often has a timeworn and slightly
an attempt on his life in the Presidential abandoned air, and even in the summer,
Palace in March 1957, but was (ironically) seasoned beach bums might find the tatty
unveiled on Christmas Day 1958 one week restaurants and ugly Soviet-style hotel piles
before the dictator fled the country. As you more than a little incongruous.
disembark the Casablanca ferry, follow the But for those who dislike modern tourist
road uphill for about 10 minutes until you development or are keen to see how the Cu-
reach the statue. The views from up here bans get out and enjoy themselves at week-
are stupendous and it is a favorite nighttime ends, Playas del Este is a breath of fresh air.
hangout for locals. Behind the statue is the Each of the six beaches that dot this 9km
Observatorio Nacional (Map p65; closed stretch of attractive coastline has its own dis-
to tourists). tinctive flavor. Tarará is a yacht and diving
Passenger ferries to Casablanca depart haven, Santa María del Mar is where the larg-
Muelle Luz, on the corner of San Pedro and est concentration of resorts (and foreigners)
 138 Playas del Este
A B C D

444444444444
To Complejo Atlántico-Las Terrazas (800m);
Playa Santa María del Mar (800m);
Club Atlántico-Los Pinos (895m);

666
666
6
Hotel Tropico (1.8km)
‚
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Havana Outer H avana

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Av 1

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Vía Blanca Av 4
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Av 5 BOCA
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can be found, Boca Ciega is popular with gay faulty equipment. Consider leaving a de-
couples, while Guanabo is the rustic Cuban posit instead of prepaying in full, should
end of the strip, with shops, a nightclub and anything go awry.
plenty of cheap casas particulares.
4 Sleeping
2 Activities Guanabo
Yacht charters, deep-sea fishing and scuba Guanabo has dozens of casas particulares
diving are offered by Cubanacán Náutica and one passable hotel.
Tarará (%96-15-08/9; VHF channels 16 & 77; cnr
Elena Morina Casa Particular $
Av 8 & Calle 17, Tarará), 22km east of Havana.
(Map p138; %796-7975; Calle 472 No 7B11 btwn Avs
Ask about this at your hotel tour desk.
7B & 9; r CUC$25-30; a) Hay Perro reads the
There are a number of Club Náutica
sign, but don’t worry, the pit bull that lives
points spaced along the beaches. The most
here is friendly (really), as is the hostess Ele-
central is outside Club Atlántico in the mid-
na, who once lived in Italy. The chatty host
dle of Playa Santa María del Mar. Here you
makes great coffee and rents two decent
can rent pedal boats (CUC$6 per hour; four
rooms with a leafy patio a few blocks back
to six people), banana boats (CUC$5 per
from the beach.
five minutes; maximum five people), one-/
two-person kayaks (CUC$2/4 per hour), Pablo M Durán Jubiel &
snorkel gear (CUC$4) and catamarans Rosario Redonda Casa Particular $
(CUC$12 per hour; maximum four people (Map p138; %796-5281; Calle 476 No 905 btwn Avs
plus lifeguard). A paddle around the coast 9 & 9B; r CUC$25-30; pa) A little house near
exploring the mangrove-choked canals is a the beach with a kitchen and patio; there are
pleasure. also rooms at Nos 906 and 9B01 nearby.
Beach toys such as sailboards, water
bikes and badminton gear may also be Villa Playa Hermosa Hotel $

available; ask. Many people rent similar (Map p138; %796-2774; Av 5D btwn Calles 472
equipment all along the beach to Guanabo, & 474; s/d with shared bathroom CUC$20/25;
but check any water vessels and gear care- pais) This unpretentious villa has 47
fully, as we’ve received complaints about rooms in small bungalows with shared bath-
 e
# 0
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Havana
Outer Havana
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Av 5

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room and TV. It’s a popular spot, so expect

music, dancing and drinking to all hours; Playas del Este
Playa Hermosa is 300m away. ÿ Sleeping
1 Elena Morina ........................................ F3
Santa María del Mar
2 Hotel Blau Club Arenal........................B2
None of Santa María’s hotels is a knockout
3 Pablo M Durán Jubiel & Rosario
and some are downright ugly. The Blau Club
Redonda ............................................ F3
Arenal is the closest the strip gets to Varade-
4 Villa Playa Hermosa ............................ F2
ro levels of comfort.
ú Eating
Hotel Blau Club Arenal Resort $$$
5 Bim Bom............................................... E2
(Map p138; %797-1272; all-incl s/d CUC$95/150;
6 El Cubano .............................................D2
pas) Playas del Este’s most stylish op-
7 Los Caneyes.........................................C2
tion, this modern hotel is on the Laguna
8 Minisuper la Barca...............................D2
Itabo, between Boca Ciega and Santa María
9 Paladar el Piccolo ................................ H1
del Mar. It has 166 rooms set around a
10 Pan.com ............................................... F2
translucent pool. Ground-floor rooms have
11 Pizzería al Mare ...................................G2
patios, but suites are much larger and cost
about 20% more. The beach is just 150m 12 Restaurante Maeda............................. F3
away via a wooden footbridge suspended 13 Restaurante Mi Cayito ........................ A1
over the lagoon (which you can explore by ý Entertainment
rowboat). 14 Cabaret Guanimar............................... E2
Club Atlántico – 15 Cine Guanabo ......................................G2
Los Pinos Apartments, Hotel $$$ 16 Teatro Avenida .................................... F2
(%797-1085; Av de las Terrazas btwn Calles 11 &
12; all-incl s/d/2-bed house CUC$105/150/160;
pais) An amalgamation of two of Playas four bedrooms) with kitchens and TVs that
del Este’s better resorts, the Atlántico is a were holiday homes before the Revolution.
92-room hotel right on the beach, while Los Collectively, they’re one of the resort’s best
Pinos is a collection of little houses (two to bets. Extra facilities include tennis courts, a
 swimming pool, cabaret and a Club Náutica Pizzería al Mare Pizza $
140 point renting boats etc on the beach. (Map p138; cnr Av 5 & Calle 482; h24hr) Bar-
gain-basement price and quality gets you
Complejo Atlántico – pizza for CUC$1.50 and up per slice if you
Las Terrazas Apartments, Hotel $$
can handle the grubby tables.
(%797-1494; Av de las Terrazas btwn Calles 11 & 12;
1-/2-/3-bedroom apt CUC$50/75/88; pas) An- Bim Bom Ice cream $

other amalgamation of two old aparthotels, (Map p138; cnr Av 5 & Calle 464; h11am-1am) Ice
this place offers 60 or so apartments (with cream by the beach.
Havana Outer H avana

kitchenettes) that are mainly the preserve of Pan.com Fast Food $

families. The two-bedroom units sleep four (Map p138; Av 5 No 47802; h24hr) Lackluster
people and the three-bedrooms accommo- outlet of the sometimes good local snack
date six. Ask if your unit will have a fridge, chain. Try the milkshakes.
as not all of them do. This is a decent-value
choice just 100m from the beach. Boca Ciega
El Cubano Caribbean $$
Hotel Tropicoco Resort $$ (Map p138; %796-4061; Av 5 btwn Calles 456 &
(%797-1371; btwn Avs del Sur & de las Terrazas; 458; h11am-midnight) This is a spick and span
all-incl s/d CUC$69/99; s) Picked up by Cu- place almost in Guanabo, with a full wine
banacán from the now defunct Horizontes rack (French and Californian), checkered
chain, this big blue monster is an architec- tablecloths and a good version of Gordon
tural disaster both inside and out. Pity the Bleu (chicken stuffed with ham and cheese).
poor travelers who book this on-line without
looking at the photos first. The main (only) Los Caneyes Caribbean $
benefit for the terribly unfussy is the price (Map p138; Av 1 btwn Calles 440 & 442; h10am-
(cheap) and the location (you could hit a big 10pm) A new rancho-style restaurant just
home run onto the beach from here). steps from the east end of Boca Ciega beach
with a thatched roof and open sides. The
Bacuranao food is pretty traditional, but the fish dish-
Villa Bacuranao Hotel $
es taste better with the sea breeze lapping
(%65-76-45; s/d CUC$38/44) On the Vía Blan- round your nostrils.
ca, 18km east of Havana, this is the closest
beach resort to Havana. There’s a long sandy Santa María del Mar
beach between the resort and mouth of the Restaurante Mi Cayito Caribbean $$
Río Bacuranao, across which is the old Tor- (Map p138; %797-1339; h10am-6pm) On a tiny
reón de Bacuranao (inside the compound island in the Laguna Itabo, this place serves
of the military academy and inaccessible). lobster, shrimp and grilled fish in an open-
The beach here isn’t as attractive as its more air locale. There’s a live show here every Sat-
easterly counterparts, but the price is nice. urday and Sunday at 3pm that you can enjoy
for the price of a drink.
5 Eating Restaurante Mi Casita
Surprise! Playas del Este does some good
de Coral SEAFOOD $$
pizza.
(cnr Av del Sur & Calle 8; h10am-11pm) Tucked
Guanabo just off the roundabout by the international
Paladar el Piccolo Paladar, Italian $$ clinic. This secluded little place is surpris-
(Map p138; %796-4300; cnr Av 5 & Calle 502; ingly upscale for this neck of the woods.
hnoon-11pm) This paladar is a bit of an open Serves good seafood at reasonable prices.
secret among habaneros, some of whom
Don Pepe sEAFOOD $
consider it to be the best pizza restaurant in
(Av de las Terrazas; h10am-11pm) When the
Cuba. Out of the way and a little more ex-
Guanabo pizza gets too much, head to this
pensive than Playas del Este’s other numer-
thatched-roof, beach-style restaurant about
ous pizza joints, it’s well worth the walk.
50m from the sand. It specializes in seafood.
Restaurante Maeda Paladar $$
(Map p138; Av Quebec; hnoon-midnight) Guana- Self-Catering
bo’s other paladar is still going strong hid- Among the many small grocery stores in and
den away on the hill (near Calle 476). It’s around Santa María del Mar are Minisuper
enthusiastically recommended by locals. la Barca (cnr Av 5 & Calle 446; h9:15am-6:45pm
Mon-Sat, 9:15am-2:45pm Sun); Mini-Super
Santa María (cnr Av de las Terrazas & Calle 7; Internet Access & Telephone
h9am-6:45pm), located opposite Hotel Tropi- Etecsa Telepunto (Edificio los Corales, Av de 141
coco; and Tienda Villa los Pinos (Av del Sur las Terrazas btwn Calles 10 & 11, Santa María
btwn Calles 5 & 7; h9am-6:45pm). del Mar)

El Mégano Tourist Information

Pizzería Mi Rinconcito Italian $ Infotur Guanabo (Av 5 btwn Calles 468 & 470);
(cnr Av de las Terrazas & Calle 4; hnoon-9:45pm) Santa María del Mar (Edificio los Corales, Av de
las Terrazas btwn Calles 10 & 11)
Located near Villa los Pinos, this place

Havana
Outer Havana
contains a surprisingly delicious pizza-fest Travel Agencies
(CUC$2 to CUC$3), plus cannelloni, lasagna, Cubatur and Havanatur both have desks at Hotel
salads and spaghetti (CUC$2 to CUC$3.50). Tropicoco, between Av del Sur and Av de las

E ntertainment
P
Terrazas in Santa María del Mar. Their main busi-
3 Entertainment

layas Edel
ness is booking bus tours, though they might be
Guanabo willing to help with hotel reservations.
Cabaret Guanimar Cabaret

ntertainment
(Map p138; cnr Av 5 & Calle 468; per couple 8 Getting There & Away

CUC$10; h9pm-3am Tue-Sat) An outdoor club Bus & Taxi

E ste
with a show at 11pm; if you want to be in The Havana Bus Tour (see p121) runs a regular
the front rows, it’s CUC$16 for a couple. (hourly) service from Parque Central out to
Teatro Avenida Theater Playa Santa María, stopping at Villa Bacuranao,
(Map p138; Av 5 No 47612 btwn Calles 476 & 478; Tarará, Club Mégano, Hotel Tropicoco and Club
Atlántico. It doesn’t go as far as Guanabo. All-
c) General theater with children’s mati-
day tickets cost CUC$3.
nees at 3pm Saturday and Sunday.
Bus 400 to Guanabo leaves every hour or so
Cine Guanabo Cinema from Calle Agramonte in Centro Habana and
(Map p138; Calle 480; h5:30pm except Wed) Just stops near the central train station in Habana
off Av 5, this movie house shows mainly Vieja. Going the other way, it stops all along Av 5,
action flicks. but it’s best to catch it as far east as possible. Bus
405 runs between Guanabacoa and Guanabo.
Santa María del Mar A Taxis OK (%796-6666) tourist taxi from
Playas del Este’s gay scene revolves around a Playas del Este to Havana will cost around
beach bar called La Paté (Calle 1), near Restau- CUC$20.
rante Mi Cayito, at the east end of Santa María
Train
del Mar. You might also check all the way west
on Playa el Mégano for cruising opportunities. One of the most novel ways to get to Guanabo is
on the Hershey Train (p154), which leaves five
times a day from either Casablanca train station
8 Information

or Matanzas. The train will drop you at Guanabo
Medical Services station, approximately 2km from the far eastern
Clínica Internacional Habana del Este (% 96- end of Guanabo. It’s a pleasant walk along a
18-19; Av de las Terrazas No 36, Santa María del quiet road to the town and beaches.
Mar) Open 24 hours; doctors can make hotel
visits. There’s also a well-stocked pharmacy
on-site. This clinic was being renovated at the
8 Getting Around

time of writing. A large guarded parking area is off Calle 7, be-

tween Av de las Terrazas and Av del Sur, near
Farmacia (cnr Av 5 & Calle 466, Guanabo)
Hotel Tropicoco (CUC$1 a day from 8am to 7pm).
Money Several other paid parking areas are along Playa
Banco Popular de Ahorro (Av 5 No 47810 btwn Santa María del Mar.
Calles 478 & 480, Guanabo) Changes traveler’s Cubacar Club Atlántico (%797-1650); Hotel
checks. Blau Club Arenal (%797-1272); Guanabo (%796-
Cadeca Guanabo (Av 5 No 47612 btwn Calles 6997; cnr Calle 478 & Av 9) Rents average-sized
476 & 478); Santa María del Mar (Edificio los cars for far from average prices – bank on
Corales, Av de las Terrazas btwn Calles 10 & 11) CUC$70 a day with insurance.
Servi-Cupet Guanabo (cnr Av 5 & Calle 464);
Post west of Bacuranao (Vía Blanca) Both gas stations
Post office (Av 5 btwn Calles 490 & 492, have snack bars and are open 24 hours. The
Guanabo) gas station west of Bacuranao is opposite the
military academy.
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