How To Box
How To Box
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Contents
Intro to Boxing 12
Introduction to boxing training and conventional
wisdom for new boxers. Getting started, finding the
right gym and equipment.
CONGRATULATIONS! ...........................................................................................................................300
Handwraps
Handwraps protect your hands when you punch, preserving them
for use inside and outside of boxing. Your hands are made up of
tiny bones that can be easily injured by throwing punches. Proper
handwraps (and handwrapping technique) will help prevent
injuries. Handwraps aren’t there to cushion the impact or protect
your knuckles, its purpose is to tighten the hand into a solid unit
when you punch so that the small bones don’t move independently
during impact.
Additional Resource:
• How to Wrap Your Hands
NOTE
Boxing Gloves
Boxing gloves protect your hands when you punch, and
keep your opponent’s facial skin from tearing. Males
typically wear 16oz gloves and females wear 12oz or 14oz
training gloves. Serious boxers will have different size
gloves for training, sparring, and competing. For a 145lb
guy like myself, I use 12oz training gloves for bagwork,
16oz sparring gloves for sparring, and then competition
gloves at whatever the official size is for my weight class. I
do sometimes use 16oz gloves for bag work.
• Century, PRO Boxing Equip, any *CHEAP* Everlast stuff that you see at discount sporting
goods stores.
Heavy Bag
The stereotypical piece of boxing equipment. It’s fun to punch and makes
for a good workout. Most people use it to develop punching power but
it can do more than that if you incorporate different heavy bag workouts.
• When you hang a heavy bag, use longer rope so that the heavy bag can
swing over a wider distance.
• The punching bag weight can be anywhere from 50-100% of your body
weight. It should be heavy enough not to bounce wildly when you punch,
yet light enough that it swings slowly allowing you to move around with
it as you throw combinations.
• Hang the bag so the center of it is around your head level, yet still low
enough to practice body punches. (Just a general idea.)
• The material of the heavy bag affects how long it lasts and the sound it
makes. If your heavy bag is indoors, the material won’t matter very much.
I generally like leather bags that make a loud smack sound when I hit it
right.
• As you become more skilled, working the double-end bag will develop
your boxing abilities better than the heavy bag.
NOTE
I don’t recommend these boxing stands because it doesn’t allow the bag to swing freely.
You can’t move around it, moreover throwing punches without using footwork isn’t
realistic of actual fighting.
Speed Bag
The speed bag is another fun boxing workout that
develops speed, timing, rhythm, accuracy, and arm
endurance. This is standard at any boxing gym but
here are some tips if you plan on buying one for your
house.
NOTE
Avoid speed bag platforms with only one support bar. These will eventually wobble and
throw off your rhythm. They are useless junk, you will end up replacing it.
Double-end Bag
This is my favorite bag for developing higher-level boxing skills.
The double-end bag develops your hand speed, accuracy, timing,
and coordination as well as punch endurance. Best of all, it’s
very quiet, cheap, and easy to install. I had one in my room for
years allowing me to work on combinations every time I walked
through my room. It made little noise and never bothered anybody
(compared to the heavy bag and speed bag).
Mirror
Having a mirror or any reflective surface is a great way to know if your form is correct.
You need to know where your hands are going, and a mirror will tell you that. It’s highly
recommended for beginners to shadowbox in front of mirrors, so they know exactly where
their hands are going at all times and what they look like to an opponent.
Jump Rope
Having your own jump rope is great because you
always have it adjusted to your height. You can take it
with you and have a great workout anywhere anytime.
It’s great for improving your cardio, footwork, speed,
and total body conditioning. At the cost of only $5,
there’s no reason why you shouldn’t have your own.
They work great for boxing because they’re thin, light, and they spin quickly. The 90-degree
angle keeps the rope from twisting up and wearing out the handles. If you’ve had jump-
rope handles crack before, you’ll know what I’m talking about. This is cheap and by far the
best rope I would recommend for all boxers.
Round Timer
The round timer helps you train at regular boxing intervals
so you get use to performing at the 3-mins (ON) and 1-min
(REST) intervals. This is where being in a gym comes in handy.
If you’re not in a gym, you can buy this handle little interval
timer by Everlast.
A good boxing stance allows you to move, punch, and defend at all times. The basic
boxing stance you’ll learn today will help you to move well from a covered stance, while
still allowing you to throw deadly punches from both hands. It’s easy to do and highly
recommended for all beginners.
NOTE
As you get better, your stance may change to give you better reach with some punches while
leaving you more vulnerable to others. For the beginner, it’s best to stay in the most neutral
stance possible!
Imagine a straight line going from you to your opponent. Now place the heel of your back
foot and the toe of your front foot on the edge of the line. Keep your feet on this
imaginary toe-heel alignment line when you box.
NOTE
Taller or stockier fighters may stand with their feet a little wider than the line. Just a few
inches from the line, but no wider than that.
Common Mistakes:
• Too sideways
• Too square
HIGH & HEAVY - stand as high as you can while still feeling heavy.
I created a method for figuring out the perfect width for your boxing stance, which I call
it the “HIGH & HEAVY” method. It will teach you how to fine-tune your stance to find the
perfect foot distance every time.
The correct distance between your feet gives you balance, mobility, height & reach, and
efficiency of movement. You will be able to throw and defend against harder punches while
still maintaining your ability to move effortlessly.
Common Mistakes:
• Too high
The wide stance gives you less room to spread your feet,
less range to pivot, forcing you to take smaller steps or
jump around.
3. Foot angle
Front foot at 30-degrees, back foot at
45-degrees.
Common Mistakes:
• Front foot too straight or too sideways
Bend your knees slightly. You don’t actually have to BEND your knees, it’s more like “don’t
straighten your legs, don’t lock your knees”. Stand naturally.
Keep the front foot flat for stability. The back heel
is lifted to pivot quicker into a right cross or left
hook. Having the back heel lifted also improves
your balance and mobility since you can pivot it
around, raising and lifting it to manipulate your
balance and body position.
Common Mistakes:
• Standing with Straight Legs
Standing with straight legs gives you less balance and less fluidity in your movement. You’ll
punch with less force and fall over easily if you get pushed.
Dropping the back heel will take you longer to pivot into a right cross. Your left hook might
also have less power (you’ll see why later). You’re also much less mobile when both heels
are planted.
Lifting both heels will make you feel more agile but I don’t recommend this for
beginners. Most beginners don’t have efficiency of movement and will end up wasting
energy standing on the balls of both feet. Beginners also don’t have a strong sense of
balance yet and so they’ll lose balance during exchanges because they don’t have a
planted foot. Take it slowly and keep that left foot planted in your normal boxing stance.
You can stand on the ball of the front foot but keep the heel down!
The key to weight distribution is to stay balanced. Having your weight centered between
both legs allows you to move in all directions and punch with both hands. It’s not enough
to be centered between your legs, you must actively be aware of where your center of
gravity is. Just because you look balanced doesn’t mean you are.
Not only will you move and punch more powerfully, you will be able to move faster using
LESS energy. A good tip is to never let your head lean past your knees.
NOTE
Your back leg might feel that it’s taking more weight since you’re standing on the ball of
your back foot. If anything, your weight might be 55%/45% with more on the back foot—
this is OK! An easy way to tell if you’re balance is to lift one foot momentarily and then
the other. If it’s easier to lift one foot than the other, your weight is not evenly distributed.
Common Mistakes:
• Weight too much on front leg
Many boxers end up “sitting” on their left foot because it’s flat against the ground whereas
the right foot is not. You can remedy this by remembering to focus your weight on the
balls of BOTH FEET even as the front foot is flat on the ground.
Putting too much weight on the front leg might increase the strength of your hook but
weakens your back hand. Going forward might be easier but moving backwards will take
up more energy since you have too much weight on the front leg. Leaning too much
weight on the front leg makes you vulnerable to counters when you get tired.
Your right cross might feel stronger but your left hook will have less power. Again, you
might move backwards easier but moving forwards will be more difficult (taking more time
and energy when you try to counter). Too much weight on the back leg also makes it easy
for your opponents to push you back off balance.
If you’ve placed your feet in the correct position from previous steps, your torso will
naturally turn diagonally. Face your body forward at a slight angle toward your opponent
without exposing your body square on. In the picture above, I am facing my opponent with
my shoulders diagonal making my body a thin target.
The reason my body is facing him is to keep him inside of my punching range (left hook
and right cross). Keeping your torso diagonal makes you a smaller target while still
allowing you good range with all your punches.
TIP
Try placing your shoulders at 10 & 4 o’clock. Try to keep in mind that you want to reach
your opponent with your right hand without having to twist yourself off balance.
Common Mistakes:
7. Head tucked
Keep your head down. (Alternative: tilt head slightly to the side.)
Keep your head and chin down to make it harder to hit and easier to defend. You can be
looking straight on at your opponent and if you like, tilt your head slightly to the side.
Keeping your head down is one of those things you must do or else you get knocked out.
Leaving your head up exposes you to dangerous punches and makes it harder for your
arms to protect both the head & body.
TIP
Tuck your chin towards the back of your neck. (Do it gently, don’t strain your neck.)
Don’t drop your chin into your chest, which takes away your vision and leans your head
forward (exposing to uppercuts). If you do choose to tilt your head to the side, make
sure you don’t lean off balance.
Common Mistakes:
• Leaning forward
It is very helpful to shadowbox with a tennis ball under your chin. It is usually when boxers
move or punch that they lift their chins. (Everyone has a perfect stance when they’re
not doing anything!) The tennis ball drill will help you drill that habit even as you’re not
thinking about dropping your head.
Your hands cover your chin but not your eyes. You should feel protected but able to see
well over both gloves. It is important to face your palms inwards, shielding your face with
the big side of the gloves. (Focus on covering your face, NOT catching your opponent’s
punch.)
Common Mistakes:
If you can’t see your gloves from your stance, your gloves
are probably too low. Remember to touch your cheek
with the right glove, and then hover your left glove in
front of you. Don’t forget to keep your head down.
Many beginners build a bad habit of putting their right glove in front to avoid getting hit
by jabs. This is a huge problem later on when they get exposed to left hooks. Remember to
keep your right glove at a diagonal on your cheekbone and to move it slightly to defend
punches. If anything, it’s better to get hit by a jab than by a left hook. (The jab only stuns
you, the left hook spins your head which more easily causes a knockout!)
• Tight fists
Don’t stand with your fists tightened inside your gloves. Tightening the fists usually ends
up tiring the arms, shoulders, and even the rest of your body...which makes you tired faster
and doesn’t add power to your punch. Relaxed hands save energy and punch faster. Do
NOT make a fist when you’re not punching.
9. Elbows in
There’s a big difference between “elbows in” and “elbows down”. You want to keep your
elbows in towards your body to protect against body shots and solidify your boxing stance.
It’s not enough to keep your elbows down, your arms should be touching the body. Some
fighters don’t know this adjustment so they get hit with body punches even when they
elbows are down.
SIDE VIEW: the body is STILL open! Trust me, smart opponents can still hit your body.
2. Drop your elbows so that the back of your triceps touch the sides of your chest.
You don’t actually have to do this routine every time you raise your hands but it’s a good
way to check your form. Bring the elbows in nice and tight (with a straight upper body),
don’t hunch over. Stand more upright and balanced instead of leaning forward.
Bringing your elbows in should feel like you’re strengthening your core, not bending over
it. Having your elbows in tight actually makes your punches stronger since your upper
body is a more compact and tighter unit. Your straight punches, like the jab and right cross,
will feel like they’re springing off your chest, instead of springing off the air. Your elbows
help connect your arms with your core instead of hovering them unsupported in the air.
As you develop your body style, your elbows may not remain close to the body since you’ll
be extending the front arm out often. Even still, try to touch the inner arm to the side
of your chest. This position should feel relaxed and natural, not tense like you’re always
curling your arms.
Common Mistakes:
• Flaring elbows
• Floating elbows
• Hunching over
Keep your hands and entire body relaxed. Shoulders relaxed, not raised. Knees bent. Leave
your hands open, don’t make a fist. Try to feel your weight in your feet and not in your hips.
Breathe calmly and feel your body as being relaxed and loose, but ready to strike. (You can
test your stance by having a friend slap your shoulders lightly from the side to see if you
fall off balance.)
Additional Resources:
LOWER BODY
• Toe-heel alignment
• Weight is 50-50?
UPPER BODY
• Elbows in
• Everything relaxed?
Good job! You’ve mastered the boxing stance! Now you’re ready to move!
Boxing Footwork
On my first day of boxing, my trainer had me doing footwork for 30 minutes. I wasn’t
allowed to throw a single punch until I could stand and move correctly. I was excited about
punching so it felt embarrassing to move around a heavy bag in front of onlookers without
punching. To my horror, footwork drills became the first thing I did every day for the next 2
weeks. It wasn’t until my first sparring match that I understood the value of footwork.
Footwork is an essential part of boxing. You need footwork to get into punching range, and
then escape out of range before you get countered. Late in the fight, footwork helps you
chase down weakened opponents or run when you don’t want to engage. Boxing footwork
(as with all boxing skills) must be effective and efficient. Your footwork technique must be
relaxed enough so you can keep moving the entire round.
• Step-Drag
• Pivot
• Bounce Step
• Shuffle
This means you always step with the leg closest to the direction you are going. If you’re
going forward or to your left, the “lead leg” will be your left. If you’re going backwards or
to your right, the “lead leg” will be your right.
Going FORWARD:
Going BACKWARD:
• STEP to your left with the left foot. (The left foot is the lead foot when going left.)
• STEP to your right with the right foot. (Again, you always step with the “lead leg” first. In
this case, the right leg is closer to your right making it the lead leg.)
• When taking multiple side-steps, move your body perfectly sideways to move faster. Don’t
recover your boxing stance until the very last step.
• When circling around your opponent, take multiple side-steps while maintaining your
distance around your opponent. Circling to your left is known as circling TOWARDS your
opponent (circling clockwise around him). Circling to your right means circling AWAY from
your opponent (circling counter-clockwise around him away from his power hand).
Common Mistakes:
If you step the wrong foot first, your stance will become narrower and you’ll easily lose
balance. Don’t do it.
Some guys put too much weight on the drag foot. Remember to keep your body weight
evenly distributed between both legs. The drag foot should feel like a light slide along the
ground.
Make sure the distances of your STEP and DRAG are the same. I noticed that most
beginners either drag in too much (narrowing the foot distance), or don’t drag enough
(widening the foot distance). The point is to make sure your boxing stance and foot
distance is restored once you stop moving.
The basic step-drag can only pull you out of range and put you back in again. When you’re
in the corner, there’s no room to step-drag your way out, so you’ll have to pivot around
your opponent to escape. There are theories suggesting that real boxers never really go in
and out of range, but instead are forever circling each other simultaneously attacking and
defending.
Common Mistakes:
• Floating
“Floating” during the pivot means that you’re lifting your body too high in the air when
you pivot. When you pivot, try to do it quickly and keep your body grounded so you can
quickly counter if needed. Don’t bounce your back foot from one spot to the other. Move it
quickly so you can be ready sooner.
Some guys like to lift their chin especially during wide pivots. They’ll use the pivot
defensively and try to lean their head away as they do it. Keep your head down and cover
your chin, you’ll be ok.
Many boxers over-turn their upper bodies when they pivot clockwise. Their feet only
pivot a few degrees yet their upper body is over-rotated so much their back is facing their
opponent. It’s easy to get countered if you do this. Pivot your body together as one unit
and try to finish your pivots with your body facing your opponent.
When done correctly, the bounce step allows you to move in and out of range to deliver
surprise combinations and disappear before the counters arrive. The problem is that most
beginners have too much bounce or land with too much weight on one foot. This usually
leads to waste of energy and vulnerability to punches. With good technique, the bounce-
step allows you to move quickly for range-fighting purposes.
The main disadvantage of the bounce-step is that you have no power while you’re in the air.
Punches you throw with lifted feet carry little power, and can only shock your opponents
instead of causing real damage. You’re also vulnerable to being punched or pushed off
balance when your feet are not grounded.
Lastly, bounce-steps take a lot of energy and cannot be sustained during a fight. Unless
you have some deadly counters and combinations prepared, it’s not a good idea to use the
bounce-step. During the later rounds of a fight, you won’t have energy to use the
bounce-step so I hope you’ve practiced the step-drag well.
Bouncing Sideways
• Go side to side to
confuse your opponent.
Common Mistakes:
Many beginners do this to feel explosive or to show that they’re not tired. It’s silly.
Bouncing doesn’t make your punches any more powerful nor effective. If anything, it’s just
wasting energy. I beat guys like these by walking them down with a high guard and letting
them waste all their energy. Beginners are also known to bounce up and down a few
times every time they get hit. It’s a way of “resetting” themselves, but this habit leaves you
vulnerable to punches against more experienced opponents.
Never try to bounce up. The higher your lift your hips, the more energy you waste when
your legs impact the ground. If you’re going to bounce, jump up only high enough to
move your feet across the canvas. Any higher than that will tire you out quickly! (Advanced
fighters can “bounce” without taking their feet off the ground!)
Your punches are weakest when your feet are floating in the air not grounded to anything.
It might look flashy and feel explosive but it’s not. You punch hardest when your feet are
grounded. Throw your punches when your feet are grounded between those bounces.
Many fighters will try to be slick and evade punches by bouncing across large distances.
It’s a very bad habit that wastes energy because your legs have to explode and counter-
explode when you change directions. When bouncing forward, bounce just enough to
come into range. Fire some punches and get out. When bouncing backward, bounce back
just enough to avoid the punch. Any more than that and you’re wasting energy and giving
up free ground to your opponent. Stay close so you can come back in for a counter again.
Shuffling is a more efficient way to move quickly. It allows you to cover a lot of ground
using very little energy, but doesn’t allow you to attack or defend. At least with the
bounce-step, you are able to attack when you land.
With the shuffle, you cannot attack or defend without first resetting your feet. The shuffle
is best used when you are out of range and just want to run away from your opponent or
chase him down. Shuffling doesn’t waste energy like bouncing because your feet stay close
to the ground and your hips don’t impact the ground as hard as it does when you bounce.
Shuffling is a swift way to move in one direction, but takes longer to reset your feet for
offense or defense!
Shuffle FORWARDS:
• Skip forward, swinging your front foot forward as your back foot lands.
Shuffle BACKWARDS:
• Skip backwards, swinging your back foot back as both feet land.
Shuffle SIDEWAYS:
• Skip to the right, letting your right foot swing to the side.
Common Mistakes:
Shuffling brings your feet closer together making it hard for you to attack or defend. If
you’re going to shuffle your feet near your opponent, try to lean away from him or make
smaller shuffles to stay in your boxing stance as much as possible.
Although shuffling is more efficient than bouncing, it can still waste energy if you do
it too much. Remember to stand your ground every now and then instead of moving
unnecessarily all over the ring.
• Shuffling in stance
The shuffle allows you to move fast by breaking your stance. Don’t try so hard to hold
a rigid boxing stance. Let your arms and legs dangle naturally as you shuffle away. It’s a
chance for you to catch your breath and take a quick break.
The shuffle is to be used to move quickly. Use your momentum to keep moving across
the floor. It doesn’t work when you do it slowly. Combine multiple shuffle steps in a fluid
motion.
Many beginners let their feet get too close or too far apart when they move. You’ll be
off-balance if you take a punch while your feet are too close. Take many little steps instead
of a few big steps. Big steps leave you vulnerable because you can’t counter when one
leg is in motion. Work hard to maintain the right foot distance when you move around.
(Occasionally your stance will be wider or narrower by a little at times but always try to
return to your ideal position.)
Experienced fighters move quickly by staying at the “edge of range”, which means just
outside your reach. They’ll move in a few inches to hit you, and step out a few inches to
avoid your attack. Smaller steps allow you to move quickly in and out of range without
wasting energy or compromising your balance. Try to SLIDE into position instead of
jumping around the ring. Constantly lifting your hips will drain your leg energy.
To move slick,
reach with the lead foot as you relax with the back foot.
5. Pivoting Tips
Small pivots are effective for slipping punches and returning fast counters. Big pivots are
effective at close range and for avoiding opponents that like to push into you.
There IS such a thing as pivoting off the back foot but I don’t teach that yet because it’s
advanced. Most fighters really only need to pivot off the front foot. Throwing a jab or left
hook while you pivot CW will make your counter much more evasive and even more deadly.
Pivot just enough to avoid the punch and then counter immediately. Big pivots are used
only to spin around opponents at close range.
• Foot-tag: a fun game where you and a partner try to step on each other’s feet.
If you use a partner, try to stay at arm’s reach the whole time. If one moves in, the other
goes back. If one moves sideways, the other has to respond in any way, match or pivot, in
to keep his opponent in front. If you’re using a heavy bag, give it a little push to make it
swing back and forth slowly a few inches to make you move around a bit more.
Anytime you’re not doing anything, work on that step-drag. It’s the most important
footwork technique. The easiest to do, but the hardest to master!
You know your footwork is good when it feels natural and fluid. When you can move
around the ring without wasting energy and always feel ready to throw or block punches.
Be relaxed and swift, instead of flashy and explosive. If you’re getting tired, you’re trying
too hard. Treat boxing footwork like running, good relaxed technique will get you very far
using little energy.
Footwork Checklist
Can you do the basic steps?
• STEP-DRAG forwards, backwards, sideways, circling
Can you do all these without getting tired? Try to make up some of your own! These
footwork combinations will be useful later when you’re evading punches at close range.
How to Punch
1. Relax
Being relaxed saves energy and allows you to punch harder. Your muscles must be calm
and fluid, allowing the energy to flow throughout your entire body as you throw the punch.
Being tense stops the energy from flowing and prevents you from throwing your best
punch. Find power through relaxation.
2. Aim
Keep your eyes on your opponent. Don’t look past him, don’t look down. When you throw
a punch, make sure you look at the target. You should be careful not to look so intensely
at a target before you throw since this telegraphs the punch. Never look at the body
when you throw down (this also telegraphs), keep your eyes on your opponent’s head and
shoulders.
4. Timed impact
Hit with the force of your body all at once. When you exhale, your entire body moves and
“hits” simultaneously. From head to toe, everything moves all at once. The foot pivots, the
hips turn, the shoulders rotate, the arms extend, and the fist tightens.
7. Recover
Recover the punching arm quickly to cover the vulnerability you created while punching.
Be careful, however, not to retract too quickly or your punching power will suffer. This
mistake is known as “pulling your punches”. Training will help you sense the right time to
retract your fist.
The Jab
The jab is a boxer’s most important weapon!
There’s an old saying that goes, “The jab is the can opener, and the right is the spoon.”
Without a good jab, your right hand matters very little, your left hook matters even less,
and your uppercuts will never matter. If he could only have one punch in a fight, every
experienced fighter would choose the jab. Even Muhammad Ali, the proclaimed “greatest”
relied on his jab.
You will be working on this punch for the rest of your entire fighting career. Great fighters
have great jabs; there is no way around this. You can have a weak cross or a lousy hook,
but you must ALWAYS have a good jab! A good jab has speed, accuracy, and timing, not
just power. If anything, power is the least important attribute of the jab!
How to Jab
1. Start from your boxing stance
• Stay relaxed.
Start with your body relaxed. Do not load the punch (i.e.
– tensing up just before). Do not load the punch. It helps
to take a few steps, and then stop before you visualize
yourself throwing the jab. A good boxer throws the jab
from a completely relaxed position so you can never tell
when he throws it.
Exhale sharply as you shoot out the jab. Make sure your
head is facing forward but with the chin tucked BEHIND
your shoulder. DO NOT reach forward with your head,
you simply face it forward to hide the chin. Tucking the
chin allows you to come in behind the jab.
3. Arm rotates
• Arm rotation and fist snap at end. (No chicken wing
elbows, push the fist straight out.)
4. Punch impact
• Fist lands with palm facing down.
Turn your fist over so that the palm is facing down when
your punch lands. This reduces the chance of injury
and adds power to the jab. You also want to land your
punch on the biggest knuckles of your fist. Aim to land
with your index finger and middle finger (or even just
middle finger is ok). Landing on these two big knuckles
straightens your wrist, adding power and reducing the
chance of injury. Landing with the 2 smaller knuckles of
your hand (ring & pinky), carries less power and hurts
your hands once you learn how to punch harder.
5. Jab Recovery
• Immediately retract the arm after impact.
Common Mistakes:
• Too much power
The jab is not a power punch. The jab’s biggest strengths are its length, speed, and
accuracy. The jab is meant to stun your opponent and set up bigger punches. If you want
to be a power puncher, save your power for the bigger punches and set them up with the
job. The best jab is a snappy jab! A quick little string and that’s it.
Don’t drop your right hand when you jab. That leaves you open to counter jabs or counter
left hooks. This is a huge mistake and is usually committed by beginners, especially when
they’re throwing the 1-2. Remember to keep that right hand tight to your cheekbone.
• Lazy recovery
This mistake is usually a result of too much focus on jab power. For beginners, a lazy
recovery can also result from poor conditioning and poor technique. Never forget that one
of the jab’s biggest strengths is that it doesn’t leave you vulnerable. Retract the arm quickly
or you risk eating a dangerous counter right. Don’t throw all your weight into the jab and
don’t leave it hanging out there!
When you first practice that jab, throw it at the air so your shoulder and back muscles get
used to pulling the fist back. Practicing the jab on a heavy bag doesn’t work these muscles
because the bag is bouncing your hand back at you. You’ll be surprised at how quickly your
arms tire in a fight because your opponent is slipping your punches instead of bouncing
them back at you!
Pull the fist back to your face when you recover. Many fighters, even experienced ones, will
pull the hand back to their chest leaving their face still exposed. You don’t have to pull it
ALL the way back to your face, just towards your face is fine. And don’t forget to pull the
elbow down to cover your body.
• Reaching forward
Many beginners try to lengthen or add power to their jab by reaching forward. Keep your
body still where it is and extend ONLY your jab arm. Do not lean forward; do not pull your
head forward. Doing so brings your head unnecessarily closer to your opponent’s hooks or
uppercuts. Keep your head BEHIND the shoulder, not over it or next to it.
You reach with the jab by stepping in, not by leaning your head or upper body. Don’t lean
your head past your knee.
You lose power when you don’t rotate. If you’re not sure about whether your hands are
turning over fast enough, just slow down your jabs so you can work the rotation muscles in
your forearms and shoulders.
Don’t rotate your body or turn your feet. The only rotation you need is in your left arm. Any
other movement you add will only telegraph the punch or diminish your body’s rotation
power on the next punch. NOTE: pivoting the left foot during the jab makes it a “left cross”.
• Chicken wing
Jabbing with the elbow sticking out on the side is known as the “chicken wing”, which
weakens the jab and potentially telegraphs it to your opponent. A good way to fix the
“chicken wing” jab problem is to stand along the wall and throw jabs as you move forward
along the wall. This works because the wall traps your elbow from flaring up at the side, it
can only go forward.
When you throw the jab, extend the fist first. Extend the fist as fast as possible. The chicken
wing is a result of fighters extending their elbow first and then whipping the fist out like
a backhand punch (common for long-armed fighters). Keep that elbow tight and shoot it
straight forward behind the jab, not on the side of it.
• Telegraphing
One of the biggest mistakes with the jab is telegraphing the jab. This can be with
something as obvious as cocking the fist back before you punch forward. Or something as
subtle as tensing up your chest before you jab. When you jab, do not make ANY motion
before the punch. Throw it straight from a relaxed position. Don’t think of power, don’t
load the punch, don’t cock the punch, don’t do anything other than extend your fist
straight to your opponent.
If it helps, don’t imagine yourself punching, instead imagine yourself trying to touch your
opponent. Reach out and tag him, don’t try to load power into him.
This will be the most common punching mistake. Try to lower your hips during the punch
instead of lifting them. Many beginners will lift their weight by straightening their legs
as they punch which raises their center of gravity resulting in a decrease of balance and
decrease of punching power. Keep your hips down! Straighten your arm but not your legs.
Step Jab
The step-jab is a combination of throwing a jab while taking a forward step. The step-jab
will become your most commonly used jab. Adding the step allows you to move into range
as well as add a little power to your jabs. Many trainers will actually teach their fighters the
step-jab first, and it makes sense.
TIP
The trick to maximizing the step-jab’s power is dropping your weight when the jab lands.
The jab must land at the moment or slightly after your front foot hits the ground.
Common Mistakes:
• Stepping too widely
Stepping too widely slows down your punch or the power behind the punch. You’re also
vulnerable to left hooks while your front foot is extended far out. You’ll still fall off balance
even if you block the hook. Take a smaller step to be more in sync with a faster jab. All you
need a few inches with each step. Don’t leap across the floor. When I step jab, I think to
step forward but under myself, not to reach forward with the step.
Stepping too slowly shares the same problems as stepping too wide. Your foot takes longer
to hit the ground, thus taking power off your jab and leaving you vulnerable to being
countered or pushed off balance as your foot is still in the air.
Many boxers will jump or explode off the ground during the jab in hopes of adding power
or range. This motion lifts the hips, which lifts their center of gravity, decreasing power and
balance from the jab. Don’t jump or straighten your legs when you step-jab. Instead relax
your hips as you jab. (Learn to do this on every punch you throw). I may repeat this many
times, but it’s because it’s that important!
You can test your balance by throwing a step-jab and leaving your arm extended. Then
have a friend slap your shoulders to see if you’re falling over. If you find yourself falling off
balance, try to relax your hips and visualize dropping your weight the next time you jab.
Backstep Jab
A great defensive move to create some space as you retreat from your opponent. Simply
throw a jab as you step away from your opponent.
Common Mistakes:
Although the back step is used in retreat, it’s important not to run from your opponent.
You need to keep your feet on the floor or else that jab will have no power. Be calm, stand
your ground, and let your opponent run into your jab. Impale him with his own aggression.
• Leaning back
When you back step jab, don’t lean away from it. Keep your balance and keep your chin
down! Move back, but attack FORWARD.
Many fighters will lift the chin when they throw the backstep jab. If anything, try to pull
your chin down as you backstep jab. Build this habit so that you always pull your chin down
as you retreat.
Pivot Jab
The pivot jab is when you throw a jab while pivoting CW off the front foot. The pivot jab is
another popular jab and very useful for creating angles. Offensively, you can use it to come
in and strike your opponent with a jab from the side. The added momentum of the pivot
can make the pivot jab more powerful. Defensively, the pivot jab is useful because you are
swinging your body out of the way as you land a counter jab. Many fighters use the pivot
jab to counter right hands, but it also counters left hooks very well. Throw multiple pivot
jabs to evade as you spin around your opponent while piercing his defense.
Common Mistakes:
The pivot is simply to put you at a new angle or to avoid a punch. As long as your head has
pivoted over a few inches, you are fine. Great fighters only make small pivots to make their
pivot jabs faster and more slippery. You also want to make small pivots to give yourself
more room to keep pivoting. The only time you might make a big pivot is when you have
an overly aggressive opponent. In that case, you can use a big pivot and also push his head
after you jab to really keep him away.
NOTE: pivoting too much places your right hand further back making it harder for you to
reach with a follow-up right cross.
• Leaning back
Again, it’s all too common for fighters to lean away when they use the pivot jab defensively.
Leaning away takes power off the jab, puts you off-balance, and exposes your chin!
Many fighters like to ride the pivot by raising their right foot as they pivot on the front leg.
You need the right foot close to the ground so you can put it down and throw a right cross
if needed. Don’t pivot too slowly and don’t spend too much time on one leg. Keep the
right foot sliding along the ground when you pivot.
Body Jab
Whoever said the jab wasn’t strong enough to hurt the body never felt a good one. Not
only is the jab strong enough to hurt the body, it’s strong enough to push opponents off
balance. Clever boxers use the body jab to set up the right hand upstairs!
Unlike a jab to the head, the body jab is harder to slip and counter. Most opponents will
pull their elbows down to block the jab instead of countering. Unless you’re being reckless
and predictable, the body jab is a safe way to prod your opponent’s defense.
• Keep your eyes on your opponent’s head area; don’t look down at his body.
• You can have your head facing forward (protected somewhat by the high left shoulder), or
you can lean your head down to the side to go under your opponent’s jab.
• Use the fist to push your opponent off balance (great move if he’s blocking, or standing
too tall).
Common Mistakes:
• Looking down
It telegraphs the punch making you highly vulnerable to counters. Never take your eyes
off your opponent. The experienced fighters will always block if you look down when you
throw to the body. Be sure you’re not telegraphing the punch either by lowering your body
before the punch.
• Bending forward
It can be hard to explain for some but you want to release your weight as you throw the
body jab. You quickly relax your hips and let it free fall as you throw the body jab. Combine
that with a quick step forward and you should feel your weight powering the jab. You have
to feel your feet getting heavy. It’s not enough to just bend your knees.
It’s a very powerful punch and you can watch how many of the best fighters do it. Floyd
Mayweather does the body jab beautifully. Taking a SMALL step will also help you to drop
your weight.
Double Jab
The double jab in actuality is just 2 jabs in a row. However, there are many ways to add
variation to this. Most trainers will teach you to throw 2 hard jabs but as you get better,
you will mix it up. Make the first one light to confuse your opponent’s defense, and then
make the second one hard to punch through it. Or you might punch hard on the first one,
and then soft on the second one to push his head back further for your big right hand. Try
throwing the first one at the body to lower his defenses, and then the second at his face to
set up your right hand. Or you might flick 2 easy jabs to pivot around him, and then throw
something else. The possibilities are endless when you throw multiples of boxing’s most
important punch!
You usually step-in with double-jabs because you’re most likely going to push your
opponent back. Make sure you recover that hand so that you can pop him again with
another hard jab. It has to be hard enough to sting. Don’t be lazy, aim at something! To
make that double-jab faster and have more snap, take very small steps. By the way, you
don’t have to stop at 2; you can throw triple jabs or even more! Most trainers will tell you
to keep throwing your jab the entire fight.
Common Mistakes:
• Low speed
It’s too easy to try and load up on every jab. It’s more important to focus on speed rather
than power. You want to snap the jabs out quickly before he has a chance to counter. When
you work the double-jab, focus on pure speed and use just enough power to make it sting.
• Not moving in
The double-jab is for pushing back your opponent. The step also increases its power so use
your legs to generate the power instead of the arm. Moving is also good to maintain range
in case he falls back after your first jab.
Take small steps. Big steps usually mean slower jabs. You need this to be fast and sharp.
Pepper him with the small step-jabs.
Left Cross
The left cross is basically a jab but with a front foot pivot. It’s a deadly power punch to be
used in the middle of a combination. For instance if your trainer calls a 1-2-1-2 on the
mitts, you will throw the first “1” as a jab, but the second jab can be a left cross.
Common Mistakes:
• Throwing the left cross as a jab
The important thing to remember is not to throw a left cross as a jab. Do not start your
combinations with the left cross. It may be tempting for beginners to try and add power
but that’s the not the purpose of the jab. Throwing left crosses instead of jabs will tire you
out, and leave you vulnerable to counters if the opponent evades your punch.
Throwing left crosses in place of your jab, makes it harder for you to follow up jabs with left
hooks.
The hooks and uppercuts are powerful strikes you might use in close, but the jab and right
hand will make up over 80% of your punches if not more. It’s no exaggeration that the
good ol’ 1-2 combo might be all you ever need. In other combat sports, like Judo, it’s
common for Olympic Gold medalists to only use 2-3 trips or throws, but it’s more than
enough to win. The jab-right cross combination can be used in such devastating fashion
that many boxers have built their entire careers on it.
Old school boxing gyms won’t teach you the right hand at least until the 2nd day or even
your 2nd week! They’ll leave you on the jab until you can prove to them your jab is perfect.
And they do so with good reason, too. If your jab isn’t fast, accurate, and powerful enough
to stun your opponent, you will never get the opportunity to land your big right hand.
Actually, you probably won’t land anything else either. So before you read on, please make
sure that you truly understand what a good jab is, even if you can’t throw it perfectly.
• In SOME cases, you can lean your head to the side (especially if you’re both trading right
hands)
4. Recover
Common Mistakes:
The back foot pivot is where the right hand gets most of its rotational power. By pivoting
the back foot, you rotate the hip. The hip rotation in turn loads your body weight into the
punch making it far more powerful. The hip rotation will also aid the shoulder rotation
by fully turning your whole body into the punch. It all starts with the back foot pivot.
Beginners usually forget to pivot the back foot. The ones that do pivot don’t realize that
their foot is barely pivoting. Because the back foot pivot is such a powerful move, even just
moving it a little will make your punch feel powerful. When you’re first starting, make sure
you analyze your form in the mirror; your back foot usually pivots a lot less than you think!
Your front foot stays flat on the ground when you throw the right. You use it as a stable
base from which you swing the right side of your body. If you make the mistake of pivoting
your front foot while throwing the right, you will have less stability and can fall over if
you’re pushed or hit with a counter. Keeping the front foot flat allows you to pivot that
back foot harder and make your punch more powerful. The only exception to this rule is
when you’re throwing the right after a left hook, in which case your left foot has to pivot
back to neutral position.
This is a HUGE mistake for beginners and even for some advanced fighters. Don’t make
any motions before throwing the right hand! Don’t pull it back or lower it. Beginners are
notorious for committing this mistake especially when they throw the 1-2 combination
( jab-cross). I would say about 90% of beginners will move their right hand slightly when
they throw the jab. Make sure you drill this habit out. Keep that right hand still so that your
opponents don’t see it coming. Any small movement you make will give it away and get
you countered.
• Leaning forward
This common mistake usually leads to a slower, less powerful, and off-balanced right cross.
During the right cross, be sure to pull your left shoulder back as your right shoulder comes
forward. This keeps your upper body in balance and speeds up the rotation, thus increasing
speed and power. You’ll find that it’s easier to rotate back into neutral position or a left
hook.
This happens often in actual fighting and even on the heavy bag! Some fighters have a
habit of staring at the floor especially when they throw their hardest punches. Others look
away because they’re afraid of getting countered. The important thing is to keep your eye
on the target. It increases your accuracy as well as the power delivered. You actually want
to keep an eye on your opponent’s entire upper body, not just the spot you’re hitting.
Don’t forget about that other hand. Don’t be lazy and drop it to your waist. Keep it in front
of your face to defend against a counter right! Keeping it high makes your follow-up left
hook quicker!
There are multiple ways to throw that right hand. In some scenarios, you may have to throw
it a little wider to counter over your opponent’s jab. Or you might aim it downwards to
attack the body. Or you might throw it straighter to penetrate through your opponent’s
guard. Sometimes you’ll want to shift more weight to the front leg because you’re
following up with a left hook to the body. Other times, you want to stay more on the back
leg because you plan to escape to your right.
As long as you learn how to generate power, it really doesn’t matter how you bend your
arm to get the angle you want. Every trainer will recommend that you practice throwing
that right hand as straight as possible, and I’d have to agree. Once you master the body
rotation, you’re free to adjust your right hand to fit the situation.
REMINDER: keep your eyes on top when you throw to the body!
For now, we learn the 4 basic ways to throw the 1-2 combination!
Stationary 1-2
• Then throw the right hand as you pull back the jab hand. Be sure to pivot the back foot
when you throw the right.
The stationary 1-2 is good to practice your form but might not be as practical in actual
combat. You will most likely use either the power 1-2 or moving 1-2 more often in combat.
Power 1-2
This will most likely be your most commonly used 1-2. It’s easy to throw and very powerful.
You first step in with the jab (step-jab), then slide up your back foot, AND THEN pivot the
back foot as you throw the right. The drawback of the power 1-2 is that there is a gap of
time between your jab and right hand. Against faster opponents, you may have to use the
“Moving 1-2” which is more fluid and faster, but with less power of course.
1. Step-jab
Moving 1-2
The moving 1-2 can cover ground while attacking; it’s great for speedy boxers or fighters
that like to punch while moving. The moving 1-2 has less power (compared to the power
1-2) because the right foot isn’t grounded during the right cross. Nonetheless, the speed
can surprise opponents and give you time to plant your feet for deadly follow-up punches.
1. Step-jab
• You don’t have to slide your right foot forward; you can send it to the side if you want to
move into a different angle. Perhaps for a follow-up left hook? Or a follow-up right hand
from the outside? The choice is yours.
Backfoot 1-2
This can feel awkward for most boxers, but it will help you deliver a powerful 1-2 with
power AND speed. The trick is to use a back-foot jab to get you into position for the
follow-up right hand. Your body moves in with the jab so that your right hand can follow.
Once you’re use to it, moving up the front foot will feel like more of a trick than a burden.
The other problem with not moving up the back foot is a decrease in balance and mobility.
If you throw from a wide stance, you jeopardize your balance. Your stance is also wider
giving you less room to step out, making it harder for you to escape in any direction after
you finish punching. Learn how to move in with the 1-2 combination, and you will always
be in range to add other punches to your combination.
• Throw a hard right hand into the air without falling off balance?
• Throw a 1-2 without dropping your right hand when you jab?
Many fighters will use the left hook to follow up the right hand and chain together multiple
left hooks, sometimes mixing to the head and body. It makes a great surprise punch
because it comes from the blind side when most fighters are looking forward. It’s great for
targeting the chin, the temple, or hitting the liver on the body.
Your left hand can be neutral or SLIGHTLY forward (like after a right cross.)
• The right arm is close to the body (covering chin & body).
Rotate your entire body to the right letting the left fist swing
across.
• Drop down flat on your right heel as you pivot the left heel
up.
• Relax the bicep to release the fist, and lift the elbow to keep it
at the same level as the fist.
• Left elbow is high and same level as the wrist (for power and
wrist support).
• Make sure your right glove is high so you don’t get hit by a
counter left hook!!!
4. Quick Recovery
• Pull the fist back to your face. (If you’re throwing another
hook, rotate back out.)
Common Mistakes:
• Over-swing
It is crucial that you pull your hand back to your face at the end of every left hook. You
never know if you might miss the target or your opponent ducks under. In that case, you
must pull your hand back immediately to avoid getting countered. It helps to shadowbox;
practice throwing punches at the air to build these recovery muscles. Think of your left
hook as a boomerang, it loops out and then returns home to its starting position.
• Leaning over
• Low elbow
The power of the hook is not in the arm, it’s in the body rotation.
So don’t telegraph the punch by leaving your arm hanging out
there (unless that’s part of your strategy).
• No elbow arc
The left hook’s power is in the body rotation so you make sure your left elbow swings
across. If your fist is coming across but the elbow isn’t, that means you’re not rotating your
body. Try to imagine that you are slashing your opponent’s throat with your elbow.
Landing your left hook with the elbow at 90 degrees gives you the most power. When you
throw the left hook, release your elbow wider than 90 degrees and then pull your first back
so the hook lands with your elbow at 90 degrees. This is just a general tip for power, it’s
most important that you hit your opponent.
Keep that left shoulder raised. Dropping it leaves you vulnerable and also decreases power
from your left hook. A dropped left shoulder also means your left elbow might be too low.
3. Body Impact
• The left hook lands as the left heel pivots off the
ground.
4. Recovery
Common Mistakes:
Don’t ever look down when you throw to the body. Keep your eyes looking up so that:
a) your opponent doesn’t know you’re going to the body and, b) you can see your
opponent’s counters.
This is understandable because it’s hard to pivot your foot when most of your weight is
on it. Nonetheless, you must pivot your left foot as hard as you can. It really makes a
big difference in power. Next time you throw that left to the body, dig your foot into the
ground and pivot it HARD! The right foot pivot doesn’t matter as much since your weight
is mostly on the left.
There’s no rule saying you can’t shift your weight to the back for a left hook to the body
but I recommend against this because it takes away your left hook’s range. I would only
recommend shifting weight to your back foot if your opponent is really close and/or you
want to follow up with a different punch angle.
• Aim over your opponent’s right glove for a head shot or below his arm for a body shot.
• You can also use a pivoting left hook to get out of the way when you finish a combination.
So there you have it, shifting your weight over to the back foot has more power and more
range if you’re throwing to the head. Throwing to the body, especially on the inside, is
probably faster and more powerful if you leave your weight on the front foot. If you’re
throwing double hooks, you might want to leave your weight on the front foot for the
first hook, and then switch it to the back leg for the second hook. It’s a matter of personal
preference, and I suggest that you experiment with all of them to see which one you like
best.
The Uppercut
A proper uppercut is actually not flashy at all. It’s often thrown at close range and with
such quickness that you don’t even see the punch. Although wide uppercuts can cause
massive damage, they leave the puncher extremely vulnerable to counters. The uppercut’s
advantage is not from its power but from its surprise angle. Experienced boxers use
uppercuts to pop their opponent’s head up to follow up with a hook or cross. A well-timed
and well-placed uppercut can knock out your opponent.
4. Quick recovery
Common Mistakes:
Don’t drop your hand before your uppercut. This telegraphs the punch. You drop the hand
as you’re throwing the uppercut, not before.
This is the #1 problem with the uppercut. Fighters drop their hand really low (sometimes
to their waist), thinking it adds power to the uppercut. Well, it doesn’t. You only drop that
fist low enough to shoot upwards into your opponent. Just arc the uppercut a few inches
lower than you need. Anything lower than that, you’re unnecessarily exposing yourself.
This is a common mistake that follows the last one. Many boxers will shoot the uppercut all
the way through, causing their uppercut to fly over their heads when they miss. Pull your
uppercut back to your chin after it lands or misses.
Make sure you rotate your body on your uppercuts, or else you lose power. Even though
the uppercut feels like a “DOWN & UP” punch, it still requires sideways rotation for
maximum power. A big rotation with slight upwards motion beats a small rotation with big
upwards motion. Get it?
This is the problem committed by everyone I know. Never let your hips raise when you
uppercut. Many fighters think exploding their hips upwards adds power to the uppercut.
It actually takes off power. Your hips are less grounded and aren’t pushing back against
anything. You’ll be more vulnerable to counters and your follow-up punches will take
longer. Keep your hips DOWN! Don’t let your hips go DOWN & UP. Always drop your hips
down when you uppercut. You’ll know you’ve thrown the uppercut correctly when you can
throw 2 fast uppercuts in a row.
Uppercut Tips
Visualize Straights and Hooks
Instead of thinking of an uppercut as a punch that shoots upwards, visualize it as either an
upside-down straight punch or an upwards hook. Visualizing it as an upside straight punch
helps you to mask the uppercut so your opponent doesn’t feel like you’re dropping down
and loading an uppercut. Treating it like an upwards hook will help you to recover the
uppercut hand faster instead of letting it fly off into the sky.
Elbows Tight
Try to tuck your elbows close to your body when you uppercut, especially when you’re
throwing to the body. This makes the uppercut more solid and more powerful because
your arm is connected to your body instead of dangling loosely by your side.
Some fighters throw it more like a hook with an upwards curve. Other’s throw it like an
uppercut with a slight side curve. It doesn’t matter how you do it, adjust the angle to fit
your needs. For some fighters, a hookercut feels more comfortable on their wrist than
regular hooks and uppercuts. Last note about the hookercut, you can throw with the
weight shifting or with the weight over one leg.
• Throw a left hook without dropping your right hand from your chin?
• Throw a jab-cross-hook combination without dropping your right hand from your chin?
• Throw an uppercut without dropping the hand lower than your chest?
• Throw 2 left hooks while keeping your weight on the front leg?
• Throw 2 right uppercuts while keeping your weight on your back leg?
• Throw a left hook while slashing the air with your elbow?
• Throw a right uppercut, right hook combo while keep your weight on your right leg?
• Throw a left uppercut, left hook combo while keeping your weight on your left leg?
Defense is really what makes boxing so beautiful. Without defense, boxing is little more
than a punching contest. A true boxer will need both offensive and defensive skills. On the
most basic level, defense allows you to neutralize your opponent’s offense. At the
advanced level, defense allows you to TAKE ADVANTAGE of your opponent’s offense
(giving you a counter-offense). In essence, a great defense allows you to be more offensive.
The right mindset is not to balance offense with defense, instead imagine that your defense
is another way of being offensive. A true boxer uses his defense to increase his offensive
ability. Fighting is a never-ending cycle of offense and defense. Offense finds the angle
and delivers the power, whereas defense avoids your opponent’s punches while getting
you into better offensive position. The basis of a good defense is an aggressive defense.
The purpose of learning defensive skills is to stay in punching range! Otherwise, the best
defense would have just been to run away!
Move your arms into position using the least amount of movement possible. Do it calmly
and don’t make your defense so obvious. Make it quick and subtle so your opponents
don’t learn the way you block and fake you out later.
• Turn your hand to face the jab without taking it away from your face. Stop the jab with a
slight “hit” to stop its momentum. Don’t pull your right hand away from your face in case
it’s a feint.
• It’s ok to block the jab with the outside of your glove if you can’t rotate your hand into
place in time.
6. Blocking Uppercuts
• Block with your glove or your forearm & elbow. You can’t always tell if it’s going to the
head or to the body.
• You can also block with your palm down so that you can counter with a punch afterwards.
• Don’t stay in your defensive shell. You can’t see follow-up punches or counter-
opportunities. You might end up stuck in your shell forever and take punches until he
finally breaks through. Close up tight, but reopen immediately or take a step back. Get
back to offense immediately.
Common Mistakes:
• Not exhaling
Many beginners get so overwhelmed while blocking punches that they forget to breathe.
Holding your breath makes it possible for your opponent to knock the wind out of you.
Not breathing tenses up your body and tires you out more quickly. Ideally, you exhale once
with each block.
• Not looking
You must see punches in order to effectively defend against them. If you cover your eyes,
the punch’s impact will still transfer through your guard because you didn’t know where
and when to focus your defense. Block the punch but don’t cover your eyes. (Don’t look
away from the punch either.)
Learn to see punches; this is critical to developing a great boxing defense. It’s hard to hit
something you can’t see. Staying “covered” means little if you can’t see the punches. Later
on, you’ll be doing more than just blocking punches. You might slip or counter them but
that’s hard to do if you can’t see them! Don’t flinch, don’t blink, and don’t look away.
Don’t focus on the punch, focus on yourself. No need to freak out, just cover YOURSELF.
Your hands protect your face; your elbows protect your body. Focus on yourself. Keep your
eyes open and see where the punch is going. If the punch is going for your head, block
your head. Don’t try to follow the punch’s trajectory. If you let your hands get too far from
your face, you may get faked out and/or hit by the follow-up punches.
• Cross blocking
Avoid using your left hand to block a jab. This exposes the left side of your head while your
opponent’s right hand is free...NOT A GOOD IDEA! Furthermore, blocking your opponent’s
right with your right leaves you open to left hooks.
Blocking Tips
Don’t Cover Your Eyes
This is such a crucial rule yet it’s broken every time. Your eyes can tell you where to block
and where to punch. Without vision, you will take punch after punch until you dare to look
again. Never cover your eyes, not even for the purpose of blocking a punch.
Suppose you normally breathe twice during a 1-2, now you exhale as you catch his jab
and exhale again as you throw a counter-punch. Or you might exhale once, simultaneously
blocking and countering his jab. Exhale a quick breath with each block.
The word “parry” comes from fencing. To parry an attack meant to deflect the attack by
using your sword to divert the opponent’s sword in another direction.
After you’ve learned how to block punches, parrying becomes the next level of defensive
skill. Parrying is a superior defensive move to blocking that uses your opponent’s
momentum against him. The parry will deflect your opponent’s attack while using his own
momentum to leave him open to your counter-punches.
Parrying offers better protection against stronger punches while creating better counter
opportunities using your opponent’s energy. The more your opponent over commits
into his punches, the more effective your parry will be. As you face stronger opponents,
blocking becomes a less likely option. Blocking still absorbs partial damage whereas
parrying can deflect the attack away entirely. Instead of absorbing your opponent’s
power into your guard, you’re deflecting his energy elsewhere to put him off balance and
vulnerable. The parry will also free your hands to counter.
The parry can only be used against straight punches and stronger punches. Hook punches
are harder to deflect since they’re already traveling in a curved motion. If you opponent
throws lots of fast little punches, the parry won’t be able to deflect it since your opponent
is not committing much power to the punch.
Down Parry
The down parry is a simple downward slap of your palm over your opponent’s glove. The
punch is deflected downwards away from your face giving you a counter opportunity over
the top. It’s the most basic parry and probably the one you will use the most, especially
against straight punches to your face.
• I slap the jab down with my right hand, opening my opponent for a counter punch. Right
crosses are parried with the left glove. (Keep the parrying hand close to your face.)
• The down parry is the easiest parry to learn, requiring little movement and skill.
Common Mistakes:
• Dropping your hand
Slap down but don’t send your hand down too far from your face. It could be a fake punch
and you will end up paying the price.
Don’t spend too much time trying to direct your opponent’s punch downwards. Give it a
quick bump to change its trajectory and counter immediately as he misses.
Side Parry
The side parry is a sideways push against your opponent’s glove. Side parries will deflect
punches to the side as you counter and/or escape from the outside. The side parry can be
more effective than the down parry against stronger punches. Parrying down a hard punch
might direct the punch to your body, still causing damage. By parrying the punch to the
side, he will miss you entirely giving you more time to counter.
The side parry can be very tricky to use. The jab might be too fast to side parry whereas
the right hand may be too risky to side parry (if you miss the glove, you take a big punch).
Some fighters will prefer to deflect the right hand with their shoulder or their forearm
instead of using the glove. I’m sure you’ve seen this “shoulder roll” technique used before
by defensive wizards such as James Toney and Floyd Mayweather. Nonetheless, the side
parry is still a beautiful defensive move to use once you have perfected it.
TIP: The side parry works beautifully against southpaws. Push the southpaw left to the side
with your right hand, and follow up with a counter right or counter 1-2. (It also helps to slip
your head to the right as you do the side parry.)
• I do slip my head to one side SLIGHTLY to help the parry. This isn’t necessary.
• Roll away slightly while using your forearm to deflect the punch away.
• The forearm side parry isn’t recommended for the jab because it’s such a fast punch and
you might inadvertently roll yourself into a right cross.
Circle Parry
The motion of the circle parry is taken almost literally from fencing. You use your forearm
(your sword) to wrap around your opponent’s forearm deflecting his punch to the outside
with a circular motion. A perfect deflection will cause him to fall forward or at least spend
more time retracting his punch, allowing you to counter. If you’re lucky with the circle parry,
you can clamp your fingers around his wrist right above the thumb and prevent him from
pulling his hand back. The motion of him pulling back his glove guides your parrying hand
into a perfect counter-punch.
The circle parry is easier to do if you float your hands in the air at long range, like a cat
pawing the air. Try to counter with the same hand as the deflecting hand. Using the circle
parry at long range can make it difficult for your opponent to get into range. At close
range, you can use the circle parry to neutralize his punches and force clinches.
I circle parry the jab down and out to the side (deflecting it under my armpit). This peels
his shoulder away from his chin, leaving a hole for my straight right hand on the inside.
The more power he commits, the more I can redirect his punch. If he doesn’t commit as
much to his jab, then I only parry down.
• Notice the circular motion of my forearm around his (like two swords).
• Try to clamp your fingers around the top of his glove (at the wrist). You have better grip
this way and if he tries to pull his hand back, he will only be guiding your punch into his
face.
• I can easily circle parry all punches if he throws from too far.
• Try to counter with the same hand as your circle parry hand.
Common Mistakes:
• Circle parrying from too close
If he’s too close, he may be able to fake your parry and convert a lazy jab into a big hook
to your head. The circle parry takes a bit of time so you don’t want to be in close range
when your hands are not as quick to counter.
Try to make a small circle, snaking your hand tightly around your opponent’s wrist. Your
want your glove to make a tight circle as his glove makes a huge circle to try and get free
of your glove.
Parrying Tips
Treat the Parry as a Moving Block
The best way to learn the parry is to treat it as shifting block. Don’t make too much arm
movement, learn how to block punches first and then slightly shift into a parry. Block the
punch as you normally would but roll away from it slightly.
As you get better at reading punches, you can make bigger motions with your arms and
guide your opponent’s punches further away from you. For beginners, I suggest keeping a
tight defense and doing only SLIGHT parries.
The more power your opponent commits to his punch, the more vulnerable he will be.
You’re taking advantage of his punches not by stopping them, but by guiding them off
target. A quick wave of the hand deflects the punch and creates the opening all at once,
while leaving your hand free to counter. It’s clever boxing.
At the higher levels of boxing, it’s just not possible to block punches. Could you ever
imagine yourself blocking a hammer with your hand? I wouldn’t either, and believe me, the
top fighters punch just as hard as a hammer. When you see pros blocking punches on TV,
they’ll slightly parrying or rolling the punch. It’s crucial to learn how to deflect punches or
avoid them entirely. Once you’ve mastered the art of parrying, you’ll naturally move on to
more advanced defense techniques such as rolling and slipping.
• Block a jab without taking your right hand more than a few inches from your chin?
• Block jabs, rights, and hooks to the body without losing your balance?
• Block a 1-2-3 combination without taking your eyes off your opponent?
• Down parry a jab without taking your right hand more than a few inches from your chin?
• Side parry a southpaw left cross (using right hand) and counter with a right cross?
Time for the advanced defense techniques. Get ready to ROLL & SLIP punches!
In this book, the difference between basic and advanced boxing defense is defined by the
use of your hands. Basic defense requires the use of your arms whereas advanced defense
does not. Techniques such as rolling and slipping use your body to evade the punch so
that your arms are free to counter right as you evade. Rolling and slipping allows you to
defend more effectively against combinations of punches and also more powerful punches.
Rolling and slipping are also superior defensive techniques because they make your
opponent vulnerable by using his momentum against him. Rolling can deflect your
opponent’s momentum (similar to a parry), whereas slipping will make him miss wider and
potentially fall off balance. These vulnerabilities open a large window of opportunity for
your counter.
Rolling Punches
You’ve heard it before, “You’ve got to roll with the punches!” Not just in the square ring,
but in life as well. But what the heck does that mean? And how do you do it? Well my
friend, let me introduce to you one of the oldest moves in the sweet science...
Here’s a little secret: it’s not really possible to block HARD punches with just your hand. At
some level in boxing, all punches become power punches; and just sticking your hand in
front is not going to stop it. Rolling away from the punch effectively deflects the power!
The shoulder roll will minimize the punch impact EVEN IF IT LANDS!
Sometimes the right hand is blocked from the outside, other times from the inside.
• Just roll your shoulders, don’t worry about where the right hand goes.
Common Mistakes:
Focus on the ROLL, not the shoulder! Don’t try too hard to block the punch with your
shoulder. Focus on deflecting the punch as you turn away from it. Even if the punch goes
over your shoulder, a good roll will still deflect the power.
The shoulder roll teaches you to move with your opponent. You have to roll at the right
time to deflect his punch. Roll too late and you get hit; roll too early and you’ll telegraph
your movement or leave yourself vulnerable. Do the shoulder roll drills with a pure focus
on rhythm. Keep it slow at first, and don’t speed up until you both have the perfect rhythm.
You can’t roll off everything, you have to fire back. The point of defense is to setup your
counter-punches. Otherwise, you’re better off just running from your opponent. This is a
fight — you can’t defend your way to victory.
It’s common for fighters to lean over their back foot when they roll away from the right
hand. Doing so takes away your balance making it hard for you to come back with a
counter. Some trainers will even teach their fighters to lean towards their opponents when
they roll the right hand. Also when you roll, try to imagine that your spinning axis is either
at your spine OR at the shoulder that’s rolling. Don’t let your head lean past your knees.
This is actually a very hard technique and requires timing as well as technique. The general
idea is to perform the move correctly by bending at the knees, instead of at the waist,
and turning your shoulders to roll under. It’s hard enough to perform the move and near
impossible when you try to do it under pressure. I’ll teach you how to roll under punches
WITHOUT getting caught!
The key difference in technique between rolling away from versus rolling under punches:
• To roll UNDER THE PUNCH, you still roll away from the punch first and then duck
and turn into the punch.
The trick to rolling under the punch is simply to get UNDER the punch and let your
opponent’s punch swing over you. The key is baiting your opponent to over-swing. Then
rotate your body away before you duck down; and then rotate your body the other way as
you roll under.
On tape, it might look like the defensive fighter is moving his head a lot but it’s really the
offensive fighter that’s doing all the work. Many beginners get hit all the time because they
don’t know how to make their opponents swing wide.
...SET UP THE ROLL UNDER BY FIRST ROLLING AWAY FROM THE PUNCH!
To roll under a punch effectively, you must turn your head to the OPPOSITE SIDE away from
your opponent’s punch. You get your head to one side by slipping the previous punch
or throwing your own punch so that it rotates your head to one side. Once your head is
rotated to the side, you can keep rolling under from side-to-side as long as your opponent
keeps over-swinging. Your opponent will reach farther with his punches because your head
is farther away. The farther he reaches, the more time you have to roll under.
That’s all there is to it, setting your body to one side makes rolling under punches a billion
times easier.
Set yourself up on the other side by slightly rolling away from the punch.
• Do NOT lean to the side. Keep your legs under you at all times.
3. Even if you get caught, the impact is weaker because you were rolling away.
Your body starts on the left side, opposite of his left hook.
The right hand is easy to roll under when it’s coming from
farther away.
Common Mistakes:
• #1 Mistake - starting from the neutral position
Many boxers make the mistake of trying to roll under from their neutral stance. Trying to
roll under a punch with your body at the center is hard (if not impossible) to do! First off,
your opponent will throw a tighter punch because you’re closer, making it more difficult to
roll under. Secondly, you’ll have no room to roll the punch and less time to react to it.
It didn’t matter which way I rolled, I got caught because the punches are aimed at the
center giving me less room to roll.
Don’t try to roll under punches from the center position, and especially don’t try to roll out
of nowhere. Rolling under punches is something that needs to be setup by rolling off to
the side first.
Remember, this is a shoulder roll. Use the shoulder rotation to clear your head. Don’t think
of it as slipping with your head while bending your knees. The shoulder rotation helps you
clear your head under the punch while rotating your body to come back with counters.
Bend your knees to drop your head under, not at your waist. Bending at your waist tilts
your head towards the ground, making it hard to see what’s going on above your head.
You can’t see the follow-up punches and your body won’t be loaded to come back with a
counter. Develop those legs and use your legs to change levels, not your waist. Keep your
eyes on your opponent at all times!
Some boxers like to anticipate the roll under by squatting really low before the punch. It’s
not such a great idea because you’re taking away the amount of vertical room you have to
drop under the punch. You don’t have to stand too tall but make sure you have room to
bend your legs to roll under the punch.
Start slowly with steady rhythm and basic punches to learn the technique, then start mixing
up different punches and switching the rhythm. You’re not just looking for perfect form;
you want to develop an automatic defense! That’s what sets Floyd Mayweather apart
from the other slicksters. Anybody can shoulder roll in a mitt session. What you want is
automatic, instinctual shoulder rolls during a fight with a live opponent. You shouldn’t
have to think; your body knows the rhythm, it reacts the way it was trained. Spend a few
hundred hours practicing this. Trust me, you’ll get there.
The shoulder roll is best performed from your boxing stance. It’s optional to have your
forearm up or covering the body. Maintain your balance, don’t rotate your shoulders more
than you need to deflect the punch, and don’t roll before the punch arrives. Pivot your
feet when you rotate your body. Remember not to get caught up in the fancy moves. The
shoulder roll is for countering your opponent. The roll under is nothing without the counter
punch.
Additional Resource:
Slipping is an advanced defensive boxing technique that allows you to avoid a punch by
completely evading it entirely. This leaves your opponent entirely vulnerable while he’s
swinging at air, allowing you to counter-punch faster and from a deadlier angle.
Slipping is a superior defensive maneuver to a normal blocking defense because you are
not sacrificing an arm (a potential counter-punch) to shield the blow. You also avoid taking
any partial damage by slipping your opponent’s punch. His punch will take longer to return
giving you more time to counter. The danger of the slip is that you rely on reflexes instead
of a physical barrier to protect yourself. Should you fail to move completely out of the way
of the punch, you will get hit!
Slipping punches without getting hit requires timing, reflexes, and most important of all–
PROPER SLIPPING TECHNIQUE!
NOTE
I say “high & low punches” (instead of “head & body punches”) because you are
slipping punches that are aimed to your head regardless if you are standing tall or
crouched low. It’s hard to slip body punches, so slipping is best used for head punches.
• Pivot your feet and body, shifting your weight slightly to your
right.
• Bend your knees as you “crunch” your abs. Pivot your feet and
body slightly to your left.
• Pull your head away from the left hook as you come back to
your normal stance.
Richard can’t see me and can’t come back with a counter either.
WORST OF ALL, you’re STILL in the line of fire! Most punches come from a side angle and
because your head is not moving up/down or forwards/backs, you are basically swinging
your head into the punch! The only thing the “wobble” can slip is a perfectly straight jab or
a perfectly straight right hand.
The move isn’t completely useless. Some fighters use it to slip a 1-2 and then counter with
a left hook. It can be done if you’re only doing it slightly and skilled enough to avoid the
punch by just a centimeter. I don’t recommend it for the beginner boxer. The 3-point slip
can slip the same punches with slower movement and less risk.
Now there IS such a thing as a 2-point slip...and there IS a proper way to slip on two
points.
The 2-point slip is used for getting under punches and slipping lower to the ground. It can
also get you out of tight situations when your opponents are throwing wildly. Never forget
that it’s almost always better to slip on top using the 3-point slip. Slipping on top makes it
easier for you to counter or move away since you’re standing up. Use your knees to bend,
not your waist. This way you can keep your eyes on your opponent. Use your leg muscles,
not your back.
Pivot your feet and body as you swing your head forward to
the left.
Pivot your feet and body as you pull your head down and
back to the right.
• Keep your waist under you, stay upright and don’t lean
over or sideways. Stay OUTSIDE the punch and not under it.
Keep your eyes on your opponent.
Common Mistakes:
The point of slipping is to increase your counter-punching opportunity. You are making
your opponent miss entirely and freeing your hands so you can counter sooner instead of
having to block first. Without throwing back, you are wasting your successful slips and
risking yourself for no reason. Remember the old rule:
You should always be able to see your opponent when you slip. This allows you to see and
avoid his follow-up punches. When you slip, make sure you don’t bend over and stare
at the ground, or move your head in a way that ends up in a head lock. Another thing,
don’t just look at him, look for openings! The point of slipping is for counter-punching
opportunities.
Always slip to the outside of the punch. This way you always have room to slip the next
punch. If you slip to the middle, you are bound to get caught because the human arm
anatomically bends inwards so most punches will arc slightly towards the middle. If you’re
planning to stay inside the punch, it’s better to roll than to slip. There is one exception to
this rule: you CAN slip inside of jabs because that punch is often thrown very straight.
Never slip in a way that gets you caught under the punch. This makes it easy for aggressive
brawlers or smart boxers to just lean on you to keep you from exploding with a counter-
punch. When you slip, get outside the punch, not under it.
Always bend from your knees, not at the waist. Bending from the waist leaves you off
balance and powerless to come back with a counter. Bending with the knees keeps your
legs under you allowing you to counter effectively or slip again if needed.
Slipping should be done as minimally as possible. Move just enough to avoid the punch
and then immediately come back with a counter. There is no need to waste energy by
trying to move farther than you need. Moving your whole body requires more energy than
the energy your opponent spends to punch.
• Not exhaling
Exhale on every slip as though you are punching. Breathing allows you to move
explosively and also maintains your movement rhythm so that you can punch and defend
simultaneously without getting out of rhythm (or running out of air).
• Improper practicing
When you practice slipping, never choreograph the drills. Have your partner aim for your
head at all times. It is better for your partner to be punching slowly while aiming for your
head every time, than for you guys to be drilling at high speed in a predictable pattern.
Use the slipping drills to develop sharp eyes that can see punches better. The slipping is
easy once you learn how to see punches coming. At some point, you will become good
enough to FEEL a punch coming.
• Block the jab, roll the right, roll the left hook
• Block the jab, roll the right, come back with a counter right
• Throw a 1-2, roll under both your opponent’s counter hook AND counter right?
• Throw a 1-2, roll off your opponent’s counter right, then throw your own counter hook?
• Slip the jab without bending over too much at the waist?
• Slip the 1-2 without bending at the waist (use only knees and body rotation)
Don’t worry about trying to do these at full speed. The most important thing is proper
technique. With time, the development of your muscles and coordination will allow you to
do the motions at full speed. Excellent stuff! Let’s get started on the countering, shall we?
Time to put offense and defense together...learn how to counter, learn how to box!
Mix it up; see if you can find new ways to throw the same combo. Suppose you’re working
on a double-jab: try throwing a step-jab followed by a pivot-jab, or try a pivot jab followed
by a back-step jab. Try mixing up the level of power so you can change the rhythm of the
combo and place power shots at the moments your opponents least expect it.
NOTE
You must be relaxed in order to throw effective combinations. Relaxed arms allow your
combos to flow smoothly from one punch to another. Tense arms waste energy and
slow down your movements; allowing more time for your opponents to counter.
1 - jab
2 - right cross
3 - left hook
5 - left uppercut
6 - right uppercut
b - body
[] - block
() - roll
{} - roll under
Example: 1-2-3-[2]-2-3b-2-{3}-1p means to jab, right, left hook, block opponent’s right
hand, right, left hook to the body, right, roll under opponent’s left hook, pivot jab.
• 1-1
• 1-1-1
• 1-2
• 1-2-1
• 1-2-1-1
• 1-2-1-1-2
• 1-2-1-2
• 1-2-1-2-1
• 1-2-1-2-1-2
• 1-1-2
• 1-1-2-1
• 1-1-2-1-2
• 1-2-2-1-1
• 1-2-3
• 1-2-3-2
• 1-2-3b-2
• 1-2-5-2
• 1-6-3-2
• 1-2-3-2-1p
• 1-2-3-1-2
Inside Combinations
Use these at close range like during clinches or along the ropes. Make sure you back away
after landing them or follow up if your opponent is opened up. Try to pivot away after the
last punch so you don’t get caught with a wild counter.
3-6-3
3-6-3-2
6-3-2-3
6-3-2-1p
5b-3-2-1p
Tricky Combinations
These are awkward combinations involving an unusual series of punches that can help
confuse your opponent’s defense. Going up and down to the body, throwing double-rights
or double-lefts, or just weird angles that I’ve figured out over the years. Over time, you will
come to find new ways of being tricky even with conventional combinations like the 1-2.
• 1-3-2
• 1-3-1-2
• 1-2-3b-3-2
• 1-2-3-3bp
• 5-2-3b-2
• 1b-2-3-2
• 1b-1-2-3
• 1-2b-5
• 1-2b-2-3-2
Advanced Combinations
Now learn how to combine offense and defense simultaneously!
You learn entire combinations by starting with the first few punches. Work your way up to
the first evasive maneuver, then on to the first counter. Keep adding a little more each time
until you remember the whole sequence. Then next time you try it, you just call out the
first part and his reaction should be automatic to the rest. The best trainers can teach their
fighters entire combinations without having to tell them what to do.
The best trainers know how to hold mitts in such a way that the boxer cannot hit with bad
form and won’t develop bad habits. The greatest trainers can teach you without having to
tell you anything.
The real focus of mitt drills is to develop good fighting habits. Great fighters don’t bother
trying to remember how they do things, they just do them instinctually. This is hard stuff,
so don’t be down on yourself if it doesn’t come easy at first. It took me years to master all
these combinations.
Advanced Combinations
This will be your introduction to offense and defense. It is the best training you can get
outside of sparring and gives you an opportunity to develop functional fighting ability.
As you throw these punches, learn to develop your timing and coordination. Think
beyond the power, beyond the punches, and beyond the evasion. Find ways to make your
combinations more effective.
• 1-[1]-1-2
• 1-[4b]-1-2
• 1-2-[3b]-2-3-2
• 1-/1/-1-2
• 1-2-/1/-2-3-2
• 1-2-(2)-2-3-2
• 1-2-/2/-3-2
• 1-2-{3}-2-3-2
• 1-2-{3}-6b-{4}-3b-2
• 1-2-3-/2/-3-2
• 1-2-3-{2}-3-2-<2>
TIP
Learn each combination punch-by-punch. Start with the first punch, and then keep
adding one more. Work your way up to the first evasion, before continuing on to the
follow-up punches. Don’t try to learn the whole combination in the first try.
Counter Combinations
These are counter combinations that usually start with a defensive move or a punch to bait
an opponent’s attack. Use them after evading your opponent’s punch. Learn these well so
that you can flow immediately into a combination after landing the first counter on your
opponent. Feel free to adjust them to start with whatever counters you like best.
• 1-(2)-2-3-2
• 1-(2)-6-3-2
• [1]-[2]-3-2-3p
• /1/-1b-2-3-2
• /1/-/2/-2-3-2
• [3]-3-6-3-/2/-3-2-{3}-2-3-2
Southpaw Combinations
Great combinations for use against southpaws. If you’re a southpaw, you can reverse these
for use against orthodox fighters.
• 1-2-/2/-2-3-2-1
• 1-2-3-{3}-2-3
• 3-1-2-/2/-2-1-1
• 6-/2/-2-1-2
• 1-/1/-5-2-1-1p
• 1-/1/-2-2-3b-2-3p
You can mix and match any part of it you want. Be creative and come up with your own
combos. Have fun, the focus is timing, rhythm, and using defense with offense. Don’t worry
about power!
• 1-2-3-2-(2)-2-3-2-{3}-2-3-2-(2)-2-3-2-[3b]-2-3-2-(2)-2-3-2-[3]-2-3-2-{3}-2
• 2-6-2-3-3-2-3-2-{3}-2-3-2-(2)-3-3-2-6-2-{3}-{4}-3-3-2-6-2
I know at some point you’re going to feel like you’re running out of hands. Catch with your
elbows or have him punch at your shoulders. Watch videos on Youtube to see how trainers
catch punches. Don’t just stand in one place, make your fighter move around.
The most important thing to know about reflex drills is that they are really EYE AWARENESS
drills. To have great reflexes, you must first learn how to see. And so you must train your
fighters to see everything; to see punches, to see counter opportunities, to see movements.
Most fighters are only great punchers, but they aren’t great boxers because they’re unable
to see the details of movement. The drills you use below should be developing the eyes
long before they develop punching power or accuracy.
• Flinch reflex
Have the fighter move around as the trainer throws random punches or combinations at
him. He should be able to block and stay aware without losing his breathing rhythm or
flinching. Start slowly and speed up once he gets comfortable. It’s more important that he
maintain his breathing rhythm and calmness than to block every punch. I personally don’t
care when a few stray punches get through as long as I don’t lose my rhythm. Make sure
that the fighter does NOT flinch even when he gets caught.
• Auto-jab
Move around the ring and lift the pad up at random intervals for a split second before
dropping them. The fighter should ALWAYS be ready to counter jab. This teaches him to
move with clean footwork and stay alert at all times.
• Auto-right
Anytime that you call a jab, the fighter should be looking for the RIGHT HAND, not the jab.
Have him jab the left mitt. The moment he jabs the left mitt, lift up your right mitt so that
he throws the right hand. Switch it up, sometimes the right mitt comes up, sometimes it
doesn’t. Train your fighter to always be aware of follow-up opportunities and look for big
punches, not small ones.
“When you throw the jab, look for the right hand opening!”
Anytime that the fighter finishes a combination with his right hand, he should be prepared
to block, slip, or roll a left hook counter. Develop this reflex by testing him randomly at the
end of combinations. The counter can come to the head or body.
Anytime that the fighter finishes a combination with his left hand, he should be prepared
to block, slip, or roll a right hand counter. Develop this reflex by testing him randomly at
the end of combinations. The counter can come to the head or body.
• Body-Head Reflex
At random intervals, place the left mitt on your stomach to call out the “body jab”.
At random intervals you lift your right mitt as the fighter jabs the body, so that he
immediately throws the right cross should the opportunity present itself. This trains your
fighter to always look for the right hand opportunity even as he’s throwing his jabs up
and down. This also trains your fighters to keep his eyes looking up top even when he’s
throwing body punches. Try finishing some mitt combos with a left hook to the body and
feed him a right cross to the head without telling him. Make sure he’s always looking for
that opportunity.
Movement Drills
It’s nice to know that you can throw punches from standstill, but a live opponent won’t
always stand right in front of you. These are great drills to help fighters develop their
punching ability while moving with their opponent. They’ll have to move swiftly while
maintaining their composure to punch on command.
• Jab-chase
Move around the ring and randomly lift one mitt up to signal the fighter to jab at it. Switch
to using the other mitt. Put the mitt down after the fighter hits it. When the fighter gets
better, you only show the mitt for a split second before taking it away. It’s his fault if he’s
not ready and not in position.
• 1 & 2 chase
Call out “1” and “2” randomly as you lift your mitts while moving around the ring. Force the
fighter to use his legs to maintain distance and always be ready to strike a moving target.
Combinations Checklist
Can you...
• Punch the mitts with good form and technique?
• Throw the 1-2-3 combination? (without dropping your right hand during the hook)
You know how to throw, punch and defend by now. Let’s put it all together!
After learning how to counter, I’ll teach you some of the common boxing combinations
and how to practice it with some common evasive maneuvers on the mitts. Don’t worry
about learning every counter and every combo. Focus on your favorite counters and the
combos that are easiest and feel most natural for you. I included many different ones for
different kinds of boxers. Over time, you will master them all and adjust them to fit your
unique fighting situation.
Do not try to remember all of these counters. For beginners, learn ONE COUNTER for each
punch; one counter for the jab, one for the right hand, one for the hook, and one for the
uppercut. Master the ones you like and slowly pickup new counters with time.
Block the jab without flinching your head back, then counter immediately. Try a double jab.
Parry down the jab with a slight downward push or slap using the palm of your right glove.
Then throw a sharp right immediately over his jab. There are many variations to this simple
move. Some fighters make the parry and the counter as two distinct separate movements.
Some other fighters make one smooth movement where the right hand skims the top of
the jab and immediately goes into the counter.
Lean slightly to get your head to the outside or under the jab. Throw a counter jab as you
slip. I like to throw this to the body. Regardless of where you decide to throw the counter
jab (head or body), always keep your eyes on your opponent’s head. Don’t look at his body.
Pay attention to his head so you can look for an opportunity to throw a follow-up right
hand upstairs or watch out for his right hand.
Slip to the left and counter with the right hand at the same time. I like to call this “split the
jab” because your head and right hand come around different sides of his jab. You can
setup this counter a little easier by dipping your head just slightly to your right.
If you plan on throwing the right to the body, make sure you move your upper body
EXACTLY THE SAME way you would if you were throwing upstairs. This way, he blocks high
thinking it’s a head punch but in reality you’re digging down to the body.
Many experienced boxers use this move. In one combined motion, slip your head to the
inside of his jab as you pop a stiff jab or left uppercut straight to his head. Follow-up with a
big straight right to his face and left hook to the body. An easier way to set up this counter
would be to lean your head slightly to your right, giving you more room to slip left.
Here’s a quick way to score during a jab battle. Stay on the edge of range and lean back
when he throws a jab. Bend your back knee slightly to help keep your balance. You can also
try leaning forward beforehand, so that you return to neutral stance when you pull back.
It helps to step back slightly with your back foot and then step in again as you throw the
counter jab. (Keep your front foot in the same place.) Follow-up with a counter right if the
jab connects! Or lean away again, and come back with a 1-2. Have fun with this counter. It
works really well against overly anxious opponents or tired opponents that throw lazy jabs.
Jab him the moment his right hand leaves his face. This counter is great for opponents that
cock their right hand before throwing it. Follow up with more jabs as you look to throw
your right hand. You can also extend your left arm out and use it to push his head back
instead of throwing a jab. Don’t forget to keep your chin tucked behind your left shoulder!
Some opponents swing everything into their right hand making it take forever to retract.
Block their right hand and counter with your own. The trick to this counter is the rhythm.
There are 2 ways to approach it. One way is to treat it like a 1-2 rhythm ( jab, right) but
instead of the jab you block his right as your “1”. The other way is to counter immediately
off the block so he barely feels the block and gets hit by a fast right.
Many fighters take forever to retract their arm after a right hand. Wait until you feel his
right hand hit your glove, then release your left hook over the top. Follow-up with another
left hook to the body, or a right to the face, or a quick 1-2.
This is an uncommon but very basic counter. Everyone learns to counter a jab with a jab
but for some reason, many aren’t taught to counter a right with a right. Anyway, this is how
you do it. Anytime you see him throwing jabs, you wait for his right hand. The moment you
see the right, come straight into it and land yours. Cover your face so you don’t take his. As
you get better at doing this, you will slip your head to the outside as you land yours. The
damage on this counter is known for causing knockouts because both of you are going full
force at each other. Learn this counter!
This is a classic shoulder roll counter. Roll the right hand with your left shoulder and come
back with a counter right. If his right hand comes straight, your left shoulder will parry it to
the inside. If his right hand comes wide, your left shoulder blocks it from the outside. You
can counter with a right cross or right uppercut. Shoulder roll using as little movement
as possible. Don’t lean off balance or roll so much that you’re turned away from your
opponent. You can shoulder roll with your left hand up, it’s not necessary to drop the left.
This is a tricky counter but very effective once you learn the timing. Your opponent’s chin
is exposed when his right glove leaves his face. It’s not until his punch is extended that his
right shoulder comes up to cover his chin. So the trick is to land your left hook right as
his right glove leaves his face. To accomplish this, you have to throw your left hook early
(hence, the name “early left hook”). He absorbs partial damage even if he blocks. Later on,
his fear of your left hooks will keep him from throwing his right.
Slip outside the right hand and counter with a left hook to his head or body. Don’t lean in.
Slip OUTSIDE his right hand, not under it. Keeping your body tall and balanced for better
reach and power. Always keep your eyes on his HEAD, never look down. Many fighters
have the bad habit of looking down to the side that they want to slip. This telegraphs your
movement and makes you easy to counter.
You can slip more easily by setting your head to the right just a bit so you have more room
to slip left outside of his right hand without having to lean off balance. Once you master
this slip, try throwing a counter right hand as you slip his right hand...and THEN come back
with a counter left hook. If you ever get to this level, congratulations!
Slip the right hand so it looks like you’re going to throw a left hook to the body, but
instead throw a left uppercut straight up the middle. BOOM - you probably surprised him.
Now follow-up with some more leather.
This move works best against fighters that throw straight right hands. Pivot away slightly
to take your head outside of his range. Plant your right foot and throw a massive counter
right. This is a dangerous knockout counter. Try to pivot as little as possible so you can
counter sooner. You can try leaning your head to the side beforehand just a bit so you
have more room to pivot out of the way. For added bonus, you can also jab with that pivot.
This counter is also known as the “check hook”. Pivot out of the way of your opponent’s
right hand and counter with a hook over the top. In the image above, I made a very small
pivot but it’s sometimes useful to make wider pivots such as 30-45 degrees to take yourself
out of harm’s way.
This is a deadly counter and one of my favorites. Stand with your head a little bit lower
and bait his right hand down at your head. When he throws, stand up to lift your head out
of the way and throw your counter right over the top. So easy to do but very deadly! As
the years go by, you will learn to do this with such subtlety that your opponent will never
realize why he can’t land his right hand on you.
Do know that I exaggerated in the image above for demonstrative purposes. I usually only
drop my head an inch or two so it’s not easily noticeable.
• Jab interception
Stick the jab in his face. Anytime you see his right hand drop, jab him or push his face
away, this will guide his right hand up into the air and way off target. It’s easy to do against
brawlers that don’t move their head.
If he throws the right really wide, rotate into it and have your left glove at the side ready
to catch his wide right. At the same time, you spin a hard right into his solar plexus. The
harder he rotates, the harder he gets hit. It’s a very effective counter. You’ll teach him very
quickly not to swing wide again. Make sure you keep your eyes ON TOP, do not look down
when you throw at his body!
• Inside hook
Once again the check hook wins. You beat his wide right by throwing a tighter left hook
on the inside. This counter shares the “early left hook” mentality. A good idea is to have
your left glove extended just a bit and then imagine your left hook “slapping” his face right
when he pulls his right hand wide. You can roll afterwards so his right hand misses entirely.
You can also do this move with a pivot.
Some guys are really obvious with their wide right hands. Roll under it and come back
with a left hook to the head or body. If he’s shorter than you or you don’t have time to roll
under, then roll away and then come back with a counter right.
Lean away and come back with something (can be any punch). Remember to lean away
by bending your back knee or stepping away with your back foot. (Leave your front foot
where it is). Lean back just enough to avoid the punch.
• Jab
Assuming equal arm length, a jab is always longer than a left hook. Stick him with your jab
to score a point and push him back. There is no reason why your opponent should be able
to get into left hook range without first getting past your jab.
If your opponent can reach you with his left hook, the opposite is probably true. Block his
left hook and come back with your own. It’s always a good idea because he’s probably
following up with his right hand which means he’ll be open to your hook (according to the
“early left hook” theory).
Roll his left hook to get your right shoulder closer to him. Then throw an immediate right
jab to his face. You won’t need much power; the unexpected speed of this counter will
surprise him. Now follow up with a big left hook and a real right hand.
One of the best counters for a left hook is a left hook. Many fighters (even pros) will drop
their right hand slightly as they throw their left hook. You can capitalize on this by throwing
a left hook at the same time (but keeping YOUR right glove up, of course). This counter
is the most common left hook counter for knockouts. Both of you are rotating into each
other’s punches. Aim for his temple or his chin — usually one or the other is exposed.
• Lean back and counter right (helps to put head down or closer at first)
Lean away from his hook and come back with a counter right. It helps to have your head in
close at first to bait a short hook, then pull your head out and come back with a counter. If
you think about it, you can throw a counter left hook as you pull your head out, then come
back with a counter right. Beautiful counter!
This is a very hard counter to do and not usually done from a standoff position. It’s more
common when both of you are punching in rhythm. Roll under his left hook and come
back with a counter left hook or right cross or both. If you’re throwing the counter left,
throw it as you’re coming out of the roll. If you’re throwing the counter right, throw it after
you finish rolling so that he’s turning into your right hand as he’s following up with one of
his own.
• Pivot jab
Many fighters aren’t taught this counter but it’s very effective because you’re moving your
body further away from his hook. His left hook loses power as it over-rotates to reach you.
If you’re having a hard time catching an opponent that leans in, try pushing his face away
instead of punching.
Very easy counter. Pull your elbow down to block, and quickly shoot up the counter to his
face. As long as you counter right after blocking, there is NO way his glove will make it
back in time to protect his face. To land this counter, you have to pay attention instead of
hiding in your shell when you’re defending against left hooks to the body. Keep your eyes
open for the counter-opportunity.
Make a quick hop backwards and/or lift your arms so his left hook misses completely, then
counter! When you jump backwards, don’t jump up off the ground. Think of yourself as
relaxing your legs and letting your body freefall backwards. Fall back just an inch to keep
yourself in range.
This is a difficult counter but very effective when you master the timing. You rotate
your body into a hard uppercut, keeping your right elbow down to block his left hook.
Your right uppercut should perfectly intercept his left hook to the body, blocking and
countering it at the same time. I recommend this counter to be used at close range. Don’t
think about it, just throw it when you feel your opponent loading up hooks on the inside.
Pull your elbow down to block the right hand, then left hook over the top to chop his head
off. There’s no way for his right hand to get back to his head on time. He has to roll under
your left hook (so watch for that). You can also try a counter right instead of a left hook.
Pivot out of the way while throwing a counter left hook. Aim for his temple, the top of his
head will be exposed especially since he’s aiming downwards. I focus more on getting my
body to turn sideways, instead of worrying so much about the pivoting.
Some guys will dip down super low when they want to throw to the body. Just hop out
slightly and come back with anything you want.
(In the pictures above, the left one is me already jumping out of the way. I usually start with
my body just a bit closer and compact to bait the body shot.)
Countering Uppercuts
Treat this counter as you would with a hook to the body. Pull the elbow down to block and
then come back with a counter before his hand returns to its defensive position.
You can avoid uppercuts by just leaning out of the way. Let it pass and counter with
anything you want. Counter with anything you like. Crosses are straighter but I prefer to
counter with hooks because I don’t feel like I’m turning my body into him (in case he
throws more wild shots).
• Straight interception
Straight punches are longer than curved punches. If you feel an uppercut, make sure your
head is not leaning over and you’ll counter him easily with a jab or even a push.
Countering Southpaws
Countering the Southpaw Jab
• Block & counter jab
Block the southpaw’s right jab with your left glove and jab right over it. You can parry it or
block using your knuckles like you’re pawing at his jab. It helps to keep your head moving
when you use this counter. I like to hold my head low and then pop up and jab over the
top. You will need this counter over and over when fighting southpaws.
Slip your head to the left as you shoot a counter right to the head or body.
Slip outside and throw a left hook over his shoulder to his head, or under his arm to his
body. It helps to get your front foot to the outside when doing throwing this counter. You
can step in when you slip or you can get your front foot to the outside before you slip.
Sometimes this counter is thrown as a left cross to get more range. Remember not to look
down if you’re throwing to the body. You can also throw a left uppercut instead of a left
hook.
You can also throw a quick right as you slip to distract him for your left hook counter.
Throw the quick right just to distract him, don’t try so hard to land it.
Parry his left cross down or to the side and come back with a counter right cross. You parry
instead of blocking so that you’re not bouncing his fist back at him. Make him miss so you
have more time for the counter. When you counter, try not to lean forward even though it’s
really tempting.
You can also throw a counter jab after the parry and then follow it up with a right if you like.
Countering with the jab can be very easy especially if you’re standing very sideways and
your jab is extra long.
This is your #1 counter against southpaws. Slip outside the left cross and come back with
your right. When you first learn this, you will be tempted to lean forward to reach with the
right but as you get better, you will learn to pull away instead of leaning forward. Let him
reach into your space to make your counter easier and deadlier. You can be more elusive by
stepping your right foot to your right when you slip.
This is a great counter to target the body after slipping a southpaw cross. It’s easier to
target the body if you’re pulling back instead of reaching in. Let him reach into you. This
exposes his body and makes it easier for you to land the uppercut without exposing
yourself.
Southpaw hooks are also easily avoided by not letting them step their front foot to the
outside of yours. This positional advantage allows them to reach you with more of their
punches whereas your punches don’t reach as well.
Southpaw uppercuts can be blocked or rolled, or also avoided by leaning or moving away.
You should be aware that southpaw uppercuts come from a slightly different angle. The
southpaw’s right uppercut is very close to and will feel like it comes from right underneath,
so watch for that. The southpaw’s left uppercut comes from very far away which can make
it easy to block (theoretically) but sometimes difficult to sense because it’s not thrown
often.
Follow Up
The perfect counter isn’t one perfectly placed punch. If you catch your opponent, follow up
with more punches. Chase him down and attack him until he comes back with something
(don’t get reckless, though). Maximize the opportunity to land damage on him.
Use your counters to keep him on defense, instead of thinking that your counters shut
down his offense. Some fighters will hide in a shell and counter only when attacked.
Instead you should think of your counters as part of your offense, not defense. Always
imagine that you are the offensive fighter, using counters to scare him from throwing
anything.
Let’s move on to proper boxing training to develop and refine the boxing techniques
you’ve learned in the past week.
Today you’ll learn some advanced skills and how to put it all together. I’ll give you some
advanced boxing tips to improve your offense, defense, body movement, and fighting
reflexes. You develop these skills by drilling them into habit as you work on the mitts with a
trainer or partner. The person holding the mitts is responsible for telling you what he sees.
A mirror can also tell you if your form is falling apart or show you things you can do better,
etc.
Some of the tips you learn today are meant to be added on to what you already learned
from the previous days. It’s not necessary that you learn everything in one day. Some
things will come naturally whereas others require more time before you finally understand
the concept. With dedication and constant practice, you will ultimately master all of these
tips and come up with more of your own. The advanced boxing tips in this chapter will help
you develop your technique beyond the fundamentals.
Training Tips
1. How to Breathe
Learn how to breathe with your nose. It’s more effective and deeper than mouth breath-
ing. Build the habit of nose-breathing by doing it as you train. Do it while running, jumping
rope, cross training, etc. Breathe through your nose.
There will be times when you exhale through the mouth; you do it when you want
explosive movement. Suppose you wanted to throw a punch, slip, or make a sharp dash
towards your opponent...you would use an explosive exhale through your mouth. It should
sound like a hiss or a “pshhh.” You would only be exhaling a short tight breath. The shorter
and more compact the breath, the more explosive your movement. By not exhaling all of
the air in your lungs, you have more air to throw more punches and make more explosive
movements. Exhale explosively with short breaths through the mouth when you want to
punch, defend, or move explosively.
2. How to Relax
Relax by controlling your breathing and making sure that you exert force during the exha-
lations, not the inhalations. The clever way to be more relaxed is to keep finding ways to
exhale deeper and sharper; release your body instead of tensing it up. Your body stays
relaxed anytime that you’re not making an explosive movement. Even if you do explode,
your body tightens only for a split second and then it releases again. This is the physical
part of relaxing.
The mental part of relaxing is understanding boxing with the right attitude. Don’t worry
about winning or losing. Work to learn something. Learn to enjoy hard work. Slow down
the pace if it’s too fast and don’t let yourself get hurt for no reason. Put aside your pride
and expectations.
It’s important that you train at different training paces and intervals to allow your body to
adapt to sprint speeds and endurance speeds. Real fighting never runs at one speed. There
are lulls and slow movements, and then explosive bursts of energy. What tires out fighters
the most is not the speed but the changes in speed. This is why it’s important to train at
different speed intervals. Do lots of sprint training and tabata drills (constant changes of
pace during your workout).
4. Reflex Work
Once you’ve trained your eyes to see more things and become more aware, you’re
naturally able to learn the next step which is training your reflexes. When you really think
about it, fighting is all about reflexes. It’s all about what you do naturally that determines
your level of success.
You train your reflexes by hours of drills and mitt work. Mitt work teaches you and
reinforces the right reflexes you should have. Work on developing those defensive reflexes
and counter-punching reflexes. Start slow and work your way up to where you can do it at
high speed AUTOMATICALLY.
The most effective and most efficient movements are SMALL movements. Slip small, move
small, punch small! It’s easy to see why small movements use less energy and end up being
more efficient, but most people don’t understand why small movements are effective.
Small movements are more effective because they have more accuracy and better timing.
Of course, this implies that you need better skills to have good accuracy and timing. Work
on compact movements that don’t waste energy and leave you vulnerable. (Note: when I
say punch small, I mean a sharp punch that doesn’t have wasted movement. It doesn’t arc
wider or go longer than it needs to. What I don’t mean is a short punch.)
If you use your energy to be effective, you will drain your opponent’s energy. But if you’re
just trying to save your energy, you will always feel like your opponent is draining yours
and you’ll always be battling fatigue. Try to beat down your opponent rather than outlast
him. Think of ways to SPEND your energy, rather than ways to SAVE your energy. Find effi-
ciency in being EFFECTIVE, not conservative.
A big mistake is to look for your opponent’s punches. Try to feel them, and hear them. Your
body should already be trained to react to his attack without you having to think about it
(drills will develop these reflexes). Focus on openings.
Now how do you develop sharp eyes? First big tip: work the double-end bag! It is amazing
for developing your eyes. This bag cannot be hit with anything less than 100% focus. You
have to look at it or else you’ll miss. The heavy bag, however, doesn’t require as much
hand-eye coordination; you can close your eyes and still hit a heavy bag. Most fighters
don’t realize a heavy bag can develop lazy eyes.
From a scientific standpoint, your eyes do this because neurons cancel out information that
is constant (like the heavy bag that is always in front of you). This happens with any object
that is in front of you, whether it’s a book, a screen, or any random object.
Second big tip, spar at a slower speed. Learn to see every part of your opponent’s
movement. Not just his punch but what he does before his punches. The foot rotation,
the chest twist, the shoulder lift, the elbow lift, the head lean. Learn to see everything an
opponent does when he fights. This aids in the training of reflexes.
Punching Tips
The goal is ultimately to relax when you punch. I could go on and on about the endless
benefits of throwing relaxed punches but I’ll end it with this--throwing relaxed punches
is the ONLY way to punch. Without relaxing, you will never be able to punch at maximum
force or maximum speed. It’s that simple. Use less power at first. Punch at 50% effort for a
week straight and see if it doesn’t make a difference in your overall punching ability.
2. Snapping Punches
Snapping punches (only minimal surface penetration) are different from pushing punches
(full penetration). When you punch, release your punch and let it bounce off of your target
instead of trying to push it all the way through your opponent. This will result in much
faster and snappier punching which is more effective for boxing. It saves energy while
increasing speed and effectiveness. It will also decrease your chances of getting countered.
The link below is a great explanation behind this crucial technique.
You go down by releasing your hips as you throw a punch. Let your hips drop as your
rotate your body. Keep your weight centered and drop down (SLIGHTLY) as you rotate your
body. Don’t lean forward off balance in hopes of trying to push him with your power. Many
fighters lift their hips while punching which decreases their power and balance. It might
feel explosive because they’re exerting force to come off the ground but in reality, none of
that force generated contributes to punching power, it does the opposite.
Start relaxed and then tighten your entire body all at once for just a split second as you
punch. (Leaving your body tightened any longer than necessary will tire you faster.) Your
whole body is loose at the beginning and tightens when the punch lands. Remember, the
tension is only for a split second and then it’s all relaxed again.
The best way to work those recovery muscles is to punch at the air. Focus on lots of
shadowboxing or even a double-end bag. By punching at air, you are forced to pull your
hands back instead of relying on the impact of the heavy bag to bounce your hand back at
you. Many fighters that only hit the heavy bag will always get tired during fights because
they’re not used to missing punches, hitting air, and having to recover their own arms.
Other good workouts are any type of pulling exercises.
The more advanced boxers shift their weight TOWARDS one leg and then the other, and
they never shift it entirely to one leg. When you punch, your weight should feel like 55/45
towards one leg and then shifted 55/45 to the other. It shouldn’t feel like a drastic shift, like
70/30 from one leg to the other. You generate power the easiest and fastest way by going
down. The weight shift through the leg is just to help your body rotate. As you become
a more precise and technical boxer, a small shift in the legs is all you need to rotate your
entire body. Leaving your weight more evenly distributed gives you better balance, mobility,
and combination-punching speed (since your body rotates back and forth faster).
8. More Shadowboxing
When you’re first learning punches...practice punching at the air. Shadow box, do NOT use
a heavy bag. Many beginners often develop bad habits when they hit the heavy bag. Lazy
recovery, slow speed, lazy eyes, too much emphasis on power, loss of balance, under-
developed recovery muscles, reaching too much, lousy footwork, waiting for the bag... the
list goes on and on. Get used to punching at the air!!! (I know it seems boring but if you
really want to improve your boxing, this is the way to go.) A good trainer will make you
prove your technique before he allows you to punch at anything!
Shadowboxing will help you develop good footwork, balance, speed, self-awareness, good
technique, etc. Do it as a warm-up, as a workout, and as a warm-down. You can’t shadow-
box enough. It’s good for relaxation, visualization, and developing skills.
9. Jump Rope
The jump rope is one of the most underrated boxing exercises. Not many people know
just how useful the jump rope can be for developing fighting ability. In no particular order,
the jump rope can improve your fighting endurance, energy efficiency, punching speed,
punching power, footwork, balance, coordination, and agility. Really, can it do all that? YES!
To begin with, the jump rope improves your endurance because it’s such a demanding
exercise. You have to be constantly moving and paying attention to the rope. You can’t
just jog lazily and drop your feet anywhere you want. You have to pay attention to the
rope and maintain a minimum level of awareness. This type of “active rest” will help you
tremendously in boxing, allowing you to maintain a defense even when you’re tired.
The jump rope also teaches you how to relax your body and to move in the most efficient
way possible. You learn how to relax your body and release your muscles so that you only
exert force at the moment the rope comes under you. It develops your punching speed
because of the fast movements that work your entire upper body and arms. It works your
punching power because it forces you to activate your body muscles all at the very same
time. It develops your balance and footwork because your feet are constantly moving as
you stay light and float above the ground. Coordination and agility comes from paying
attention to the rope and moving around the rope. The jump rope did amazing wonders
for my boxing ability.
The jab’s power doesn’t come from the arm. It comes from the drop of your hips. Any time
you jab, try to release your hips and let them free fall for a split second as your feel your
weight drop. I yell at every beginner, “DROP YOUR WEIGHT” when they jab. Do it on every
jab and you will see a huge difference. Try to feel your feet applying more downwards
force on the ground when you jab. The force doesn’t come from stomping the ground, it
comes from releasing your hips right as you jab.
I’m a bit leery about teaching this because I imagine every fighter would telegraph all their
jabs by trying to add too much power. When you drop your weight, only drop an inch and
step your front foot forward just an inch. If anything, drop your weight to add snap to the
jab, not just power. Try applying this “dropping-weight” technique to your other punches
and see how much of a difference it makes!
Offensive Rundown
Jab
• Fastest and longest punch, leaves you the least vulnerable.
• Best used at long range, it’s not recommended in close range when your opponent can
land harder punches.
Right Cross
• Your strongest power punch.
• Most deadly when you land as your opponent is throwing his own right (your opponent’s
body is also exposed to your right hand when he is throwing his right).
Left Hook
• Great for angled side shots.
• Excellent for tricky shots since your left hand can drop to the side and out of view.
• Can throw at your opponent even when he is blocking to pin down his right arm and
neutralize it.
• Your body rotates away from opponent, instead of into opponent like during a right cross.
This sometimes means less risk and vulnerability for you.
Uppercuts
• Powerful punch, very effective at close range.
• Great against overly-aggressive opponents (and anybody that leans their head past their
hips)
• Can be thrown more forward (mid range) or more upwards (close range)
• Can be thrown even when your opponent is blocking so you can pin down his arms and
follow up with more punches.
Punching Checklist
Good punching is not just power. Good punching has good form, good technique, and
good balance. Power, speed, and endurance come naturally when you have the right
technique and attitude.
Can you...
• Maintain your balance while punching?
• Can you shadowbox for 15 minutes straight? (Without resting for more than 3 seconds?)
• Throw 2 consecutive punches from the same hand with power AND speed? (The trick is to
keep your weight over the same leg).
Defense Tips
1. Basic Defense Stance
Hands up, chin down, elbows in. Gloves covering the chin but not the eyes. And ALWAYS
be in position to counter. Never stop breathing. When taking punches, don’t compromise
your stance by leaning back off balance or taking your eyes off your opponent.
More tips for absorbing punches: 1) GROUND YOURSELF. Dropping the hips right when the
punch lands allow you to ground yourself momentarily and take the punch without being
pushed off balance. To further add to this “grounding effect”, you should activate your lat
muscles and your abductors. This will further transfer the energy to the ground.
2) EXHALE. Breathe like you’re punching. This allows you to repel the shot more powerfully.
3) Deflect, roll, or parry. Turn slightly away from the punch to deflect the power off of you.
Don’t over-rotate or you’ll leave yourself vulnerable or blind to the follow-up punches.
7. Always Counter
The best defense is a good offense, remember that? It’s not enough to just defend. If all
you do is defend, all your opponent will do is keep punching. Eventually, he will find a hole
in your defense and hit you with something. You can counter right as he throws a punch
or evade the punch first, then counter. At the very least, you must throw something to get
him off of you. If you don’t have any energy, at least fake a counter or do something to
make him stop and think for a second.
The easiest way to evade a combination is to step away. You normally shouldn’t do that
against single punches because it’s a waste of energy to move your body against one
punch, but if your opponent is committing to multiple punches, moving away is an easy
way to escape cleanly. You can even walk away, you don’t have to run or jump.
You don’t have to bounce, you can simply walk out. Once you get better at this tactic, you
won’t need to take a step. You can do it with your head. Slip to the right, and then walk to
your left. Or slip to the right, slip to the left, and then escape to your right. As you become
more skillful, you will be able to make your opponent change directions simply by stopping
or faking a change of direction. The more clever you become, the less movement you need
to fake your opponent.
Defensive Rundown
BASIC Defense V.S. ADVANCED Defense
Now that you’ve learned how to defend yourself using blocking and parrying, it’s
important to learn the advantages and disadvantages of different types of defenses.
Blocking
• Very easy to do.
• Will still absorb partial damage (less effective against bigger punches or bigger
opponents).
Parrying
• Great for tiring out opponent.
• Setting up counters.
• Doesn’t work against curved punches, soft punches, or very fast punches.
Rolling
• Easy defense and very effective.
Slipping
• Sets up deadly counters.
• Helps you escape entirely (great for moving out of bad positions...like the corner).
Footwork
• Can escape bad situations immediately (ie: stuck in corner or when losing exchanges).
• Can tire out your opponent if you have more efficient movement than he does.
• Great for escaping power punchers that plant their feet to throw.
Can you...
• Block punches without falling off balance?
• Defend against punches without taking your eyes off your opponent? (Don’t cover your
eyes or look down)
Footwork Rundown
Step-drag
• Low energy, relaxed, efficient
Pivot
• Good for simultaneous offense/defense
• Offensively – creates new punching angles, can outbox at close range (without getting hit)
• Useful when trapped in corner, and have to escape by getting around opponent
Bounce-Step
• Good for moving fast while retaining stance, fast reaction time
• When in air, body has poor balance, low power, and is vulnerable to punches
Shuffle
• Efficient way to cover lots of ground quickly and with low energy
• Close the gap every time your opponent distances himself from you?
Today we’ll try a full boxing workout to get into fighting shape while we develop boxing
skills. But first, I’ll show you how to properly use boxing equipment. I didn’t mention them
earlier because I didn’t want you to develop poor technique by hitting the bags on your
first day. Beginners should be practicing with a trainer or at least in front of a mirror where
they can see their own form. If you put them on the heavy bag unsupervised too early
on, they tend to focus on nothing but power. This develops poor balance and the habit of
pushing the bag instead of hitting it correctly.
1) Safety
By using equipment properly, I mean that you should learn what each piece of boxing
training equipment is used for and how to maximize it to your benefit. Some things may
be obvious but not everything is. By learning how to exercise correctly, you develop your
boxing skills in less time and with less effort.
For your early days of training, it is very helpful to have someone watching you for
mistakes. You can also record a video of yourself and watch it later. Many people never
know what they look like until they see a video of themselves. Don’t overlook this!
Shadowboxing
Shadowboxing is the simple act of making
boxing movements using nothing but maybe
a mirror. They call it shadowboxing because it
looks like you might be fighting your shadow
since there’s nothing else moving with you. In
reality you’re fighting an imaginary opponent
and visualizing an actual fight as you run
your body through the motions.
How to Shadowbox
Shadowboxing can help you develop many things. Good form, technique, punches,
combinations, speed, balance, endurance, defensive movement, footwork, and mobility.
Any movement that you learn, you can practice through shadowboxing. Move around and
throw punches. Keep those arms relaxed and snappy. The movements are sharp, fast, and
well-balanced. Beginners should shadowbox in front of a mirror to watch their form.
There are many other things you can add to spice up your shadowboxing. You can have
a partner shadowbox against you so both of you can move, throw punches and defend
without actually connecting. I call this shadowbox sparring. It’s a great exercise to get you
accustomed to fighting live opponents. You can also shadowbox around a slip rope to
practice your slipping and roll-under motions. Some gyms will have 2 slip ropes crossed
so that you have 4 quadrants to move through. You can also shadowbox with a tennis ball
under your chin to help you keep your chin down.
Some of my favorite benefits of shadowboxing are that you develop more speed this way
since your hands aren’t weighed down by anything. Your hands move freely and quickly
allowing you to throw numerous punch combinations. I also like that I have to use my own
muscles to retract my arms so this builds my back muscles. I’m not pushing anything and
nothing is pushing, so I develop better balance through shadowboxing because I’m 100%
in charge of the integrity of my boxing stance.
• Move around trainer (throwing punches to test your guard) for 1-2 rounds.
The heavy bag is like the most cliché piece of boxing training equipment. It’s almost as
though you can beat up the bag for an hour and call it a workout. Well, I have to say it’s
actually a very limited piece of boxing equipment. Hours spent on the heavy bag will
definitely increase your punching power, but not much else. Unfortunately, punching power
is not enough to make you a good boxer.
When used with too much focus on power, the heavy bag can develop bad habits...such as
poor defense, slow punch recovery, lazy eyes, and poor footwork. It can also destroy your
hands if you pound on it at full force every day. Give yourself a chance to develop your
other punching skills such as timing, accuracy, and speed. Power is not the only important
attribute of quality punching.
This is the technique about snapping punches that I mentioned earlier. Learn to hit the bag
with a snap instead of trying to shove your fist through the bag. Against a live opponent,
trying to push your fist through him means over-committing to the punch and leaving
yourself vulnerable if he evades it.
Use your own legs to balance yourself. Don’t lean into the bag, don’t shoulder it or push it
around with your head. Leaning into the bag is a very bad habit that opponents can take
advantage of later on in the ring. Don’t be sloppy when you get tired, use those legs! The
only contact you should have with the bag is with your fists!
Always be moving around the bag. You should be hitting it softly enough that the bag
swings slowly. Move with the bag, follow it around and back away from it to maintain arm’s
distance. You can also circle but always maintain the arm’s distance through footwork. You
should be moving anytime that you’re not punching.
4. Hands Up
Do I even have to explain this? Have a friend watch you or record a video of yourself. You
will be surprised at how many times you drop your hands and how low you drop your
hands. Most beginners don’t realize they spend half the time with their hands down and
they don’t realize that their hands sometimes even fall BELOW their waist!
This is what separates the men from the boys. Watch any professional fighter work the
heavy bag and you’ll see that they’re ALWAYS throwing punches. Even when they rest, they
only rest for maybe 2 seconds at most.
The beginners are always waiting around in between combinations. They’ll throw big
punches and then walk around for 5-10 seconds to catch their breath. These long periods
of inactivity will kill you. Real fights don’t have 10-second breaks for you to catch your
breath. You don’t always have to punch hard, but you have to keep throwing. Put in some
light punches, and jab as you move around the bag to catch your breath. When you’re
ready to throw the big shots again, step in and fire away.
6. Active Eyes
A common problem with heavy bag training is that it can cause lazy eyes. Compared to the
double-end bag or speed bag, the heavy bag is the easiest to hit even when you don’t look
at it. Don’t let its size develop a bad habit of looking away. Don’t let your eyes wander off
to look at other things around the ring. You don’t have to stare at the bag but always pay
attention to the bag. Use your peripheral vision to watch the whole bag. Imagine that you
are keeping an eye on your opponent’s entire upper body.
You can interpret this any way you want. Use less energy or throw fewer punches. Or jump
around less often. Whatever you do, you are not allowed to get tired against a heavy bag.
The easiest way not to get tired is to relax and use good technique. You can have a burnout
round at the very end of your workout but don’t make every round a burnout round.
Conserve your energy.
You should never be any closer to the bag than you need to hit it. The right distance is
arm’s distance from the bag. This will take tremendous practice and constant footwork but
it will develop your range awareness over time. Never stand in left hook range if you’re not
throwing left hooks! Even if you are throwing hooks, throw them and get out immediately.
For a normal heavy bag workout, spend 3 rounds on the bag. Use the guidelines above.
Stay sharp and try out the combinations you’ve learned. Although the heavy bag is best
known for developing punching power, it’s important that you use it to develop your other
punching skills as well. Power is no good if you don’t have the speed, endurance, or foot-
work to go with it.
For Speed/Endurance
To develop your speed and endurance on the heavy bag, we do tabata drills. These are
non-stop rapid short punches on the heavy bag. Most fighters will do this on the final
minute or final 30 seconds of each round. You can take turns with a partner on the bag,
hitting for 15 seconds at a time. Or you can do a whole round all by yourself.
For Footwork
Hit the bag with light punches to make it swing around. Move in and out with it while
maintaining the proper arms distance. You can also do a drill called “forwards & sideways”
where you follow the bag moving only sideways or forwards but never backwards as you
attack it nonstop with punches. This drill is also good for learning your range.
For Accuracy
Stick some pieces of duct tape randomly over your bag. Just use a few. You can try using
different colors or placing them at different levels. Again, make it random. As you punch
the bag, try aiming for the pieces of duct tape and even making up combos that target
different pieces.
The speed bag is for developing your speed, endurance, rhythm, timing, and accuracy. At
the very least, it improves your hand-eye coordination as well as your arm and shoulder
conditioning. It’s a great workout for your shoulders and fun to do. Check out the
“SpeedBagSkunk” link below from some inspiration.
Additional Resources:
One of the best tips for beginners is to open your hands and hit with your fingers instead
of your knuckles. (Hit as if you’re slapping downwards at the bag.) Beginners hitting with
their knuckles will quickly lose control and end up hitting the bag too hard or too fast.
Hitting with the fingers will help beginners slow down the pace and get use to the rhythm.
Once you get the hang of this, you can then close your hand to make a fist.
Keep your hands close to the bag. Keeping your hands close will allow you to hit the bag
without having to race your hands to it. If you let your hands get too far from the bag,
you’ll end up moving it too quickly to hit the bag which makes you hit the bag too hard.
Keep your hands close! When one hand is hitting, the other hand should be waiting right
under the bag.
Your hand should draw small circles in the air when you hit the speed bag. You’re not
swinging your fists back and forth; you are making circular motions in the air. You can even
practice making small circles in the air to get used to the motion before trying it on the
speed bag. Just remember to make circles.
4. RIGHT-RIGHT-LEFT-LEFT rhythm
The best rhythm for beginners is to go right-right-left-left. This means hitting twice with
your right hand, then twice with your left hand, and repeat. On the first hit, use the front of
your fist. On the second hit, use the bottom of your fist. It should feel like a natural setup
for when you switch to the other hand.
Some trainers will recommend for beginners to hit 3 times with each hand before
switching. It’s up to you.
5. Stand square
You are not in your boxing stance. You should be standing square in front of the bag with
both feet at equal distance from the speed bag. Stand a little closer than arm’s length from
the bag. You can move closer or farther until it feels comfortable. Your eye should be level
with the bottom of the speed bag, but a little lower or higher would also be ok.
NOTE: once you get the hang of hitting the speed bag with your hands open, try doing it
with your hands closed!
Try learning different rhythms. After learning the basic rhythms, see if you can make up
your own speed bag rhythm. The most important thing is keep your arm moving the entire
round, this conditions your shoulders for non-stop punching later on! Slow down if you
need but don’t rest during the round!
Forward-Down – this is the basic rhythm taught above. Hit with the front of your fist and
then with the bottom, and then repeat with the other hand. This rhythm is usually the most
natural and comfortable for beginners.
3 Down, 3 Down - hit with the bottom of your fist 3 times with each hand, before
switching. Pyramid up to 10 and back down to 3 again if you like.
Alternating Hands – switching hands on every hit, keep hitting with the bottom of
your fists. Most boxers doing this will stand at a slight angle with the bag lined up to
their rear arm (instead of centered on their face). You should feel an intense burn with
both shoulders and triceps. I usually feel more of a burn on my front arm. I like to do the
alternating hands rhythm during the last 30 seconds of each round, going as fast as I can.
For beginners, you can start with the last 15 seconds of each round.
FORWARD-Down-Down – hit with a forward, then down twice with each hand before
switching hands. You can do more “down’s” before switching hands if you like.
You can make the speed bag workouts more interesting by doing different things as you
hit the bag. You can hold the free hand up by your ears to work on keeping your hands up.
You can bounce up and down with your feet like you’re jumping rope. You can also learn
more advanced ways to hit the bag. Search Youtube for “speed bag skunk” and watch how
this guy hits it. You can try hitting at single rebounds or even slipping the speed bag every
now and then. There are videos of old-timers hitting the speed bag with their temples,
which is an incredible neck exercise. (Roberto Duran comes to mind.)
Also known as the “floor-to-ceiling bag” or the “crazy bag”, the double-end bag is one
of my favorite pieces of training equipment. I love it more than the heavy bag and
have always claimed that this is the best bag to develop your higher level boxing skills.
Defensively, the double-end bag will raise your awareness because it swings quickly back at
you. Offensively, the double-end bag will increase your hand speed, timing, and accuracy.
The small size and constant movement of the bag makes it impossible to hit cleanly unless
your speed, timing, and accuracy is perfect. At the higher levels of boxing, timing and
accuracy becomes far more important than punching power.
• Left-left-Right, Right-right-left
This is the basic drill still used by many pros. Throw two punches with the left hand,
then finish with the right. The important thing is to not wait around. Throw the first two
immediately to feel the bag and aim the 3rd. You can also work with a partner so both of
you are taking turns hitting the double-end bag and moving around. Don’t forget to mix
up the punches; you don’t always have to start with a jab.
This works best on the really loose double-end bags. Throw a combination and finish with
2 slips, moving your head to avoid being hit by the double-end bag. You’ll pivot to the side
or move and then come back with another combo and slip again.
Throw a fast combination and the moment you miss, step off to the side and try to connect
again. Keep moving and punching until you connect, then plant yourself and throw a
combo. The moment you miss again, you move again.
Shuffling your feet as though you’re jumping rope and throw a punch for each bounce. I
do this drill randomly throughout my workout, like in between rounds or when I’m waiting
around before sparring. It develops smooth footwork as well as feet to hand coordination,
so I’m always punching with leg power. You can stand square around the bag as you do
this drill; it’s not necessary to be in your boxing stance all the time.
NOTE
They do sell large maize bags that look like small pear-
shaped heavy bags. They are still meant to be used as
a “slip bag” but with the difference being that you can
punch them.
I personally use the jump rope as my warm-up. But other gyms might use it as a cool
down. It’s completely up to you. Hands down, the jump rope is one of my favorite exercises.
For $5, you can’t find a more effective piece of training equipment. It develops everything
from endurance, power, and speed to balance, footwork, rhythm, and coordination.
You have to relax to last long with the jump rope. The jump rope will teach you how to
breathe and how to move your body in the most effortless way possible. When you first
start out, it’s natural to get tired within 50 jumps. As you get better, you can jump straight
for hours if you want. The key to the jump rope is breathing. Try to breathe using nothing
but your nose.
There may be moments when you straighten your legs to move around, but you always
land with your knees bent. This prevents injury.
Always land on the balls of your feet. This builds the calve muscles and gives you that fluid
jumping rhythm. Landing on your heels will transfer the impact to your joints and cause
long term pain and/or injury.
Swing your arms to spin the rope. A quick flick of the forearms is all you need. Don’t hold
your arms in one place and spin the rope with your shoulders; this builds tension and
makes you prematurely stiff and/or tired. Relax your arms and use them to move the rope.
• Variety
Learn some basic jump rope tricks and alternate between them so you develop different
muscles. Knowing tricks will also keep you from getting bored of jump-rope workouts. I
included a list of basic jump rope tricks below. Turn on some music and find new ways to
jump to the music, and make up your own jump rope tricks.
1. Basic jump - hop up and land with both feet together at all times. (Also try one-legged
hops.)
2. Run in place - jump over the rope one foot at a time, while simulating a running motion.
3. Side swing - putting boths hands together, swing the rope on one side of your body and
then the other while jumping.
4. Skier - with both feet together, jump side to side while skipping over the rope.
5. Side-swing skier - with both feet together, jump side to side while swinging the rope
from side to side with both hands together.
6. Bell - with both feet together, jump forwards and backwards while skipping over the
rope.
7. Straddle - spread your feet and bring them together again after every jump.
8. Scissor - land with one foot in front and then repeat after each jump, forming a scissor
motion with your legs.
9. Crosses - cross your arms while jumping to make the rope cross. Un-cross your arms
on the next jump to make the rope cross back. (See if you can do crosses while doing the
other the “run in place”.).
10. Doubles - jump a little higher than you would normally and spin the rope twice under
you before landing. See if you can do a double-cross which would cross and un-cross the
rope with a single jump.
Partner Training
Boxing is a social activity. You can’t have a fight without having at least two people. Aside
from having an opponent, a training partner will help you progress faster through your
boxing career. Training partners make boxing more enjoyable and personally satisfying.
You’ll have someone to talk to about boxing and life itself instead of standing around by
yourself in between workouts.
From an athletic standpoint, having a partner means having someone who can push your
limits every day. Both of you can challenge each other and give each other feedback.
Ultimately, having a training partner in anything speeds up the learning process.
Partner Exercises
• Bag Work
You can work opposite sides of a heavy bag or double-end bag. One punches as the other
moves, and repeat. The moment one finishes punching, the other one continues right away.
This sets a nice rhythm similar to an actual fight and keeps both of you alert. Both will work
harder so that there are no lulls in activity.
• Shadowbox Sparring
Both of you can shadowbox against each other so you can see the movements of a live
person instead of trying to visualize one in your head.
You can take turns holding each other’s feet for sit-ups, crunches, and reverse sit-ups.
Count the reps and motivate each other to do more. It doesn’t have to be stoic; you can
talk and tell jokes to make the exercises more light-hearted and enjoyable. In one of the
gyms I trained at, it was common for us to crack jokes and laugh as we did crunches for an
hour. Throw the medicine ball at each other, or work tabata drills on the bag. Hold mitts for
each other when your trainer is busy. There are endless exercises you can do with a partner.
• Road Work
Running is incredibly boring for many people. If that’s the case with you, then I highly
recommend getting a running buddy. It doesn’t have to be running; it can also be
swimming or even jump rope. If running on flat ground bores you, try running up hills.
Whether you’re challenging or entertaining each other, running with a friend helps you
accomplish more.
• Focus Mitts
Takes turns holding mitts for each other and giving feedback to each other. If one person is
not experienced enough to give valid feedback, he could at least say, “Ooooh, you hit really
hard THAT time.” Or even “your hands seem much faster today”. Any feedback helps.
The key to effective boxing training is in understanding how your muscles are used in
boxing, and to train them to best fit that purpose. Smart athletes will know that certain
muscles should definitely be given priority over the others. A good training routine will
also keep your body balanced so that your muscles get tired all at the same time. You
don’t want a weak muscle to prevent a stronger muscle from being used to its maximum
potential.
A great example of imbalanced muscles would be the back versus the chest. Most fighters
have strong pectorals but a very weak back. This means they can punch powerfully but
unable to retract the arm as quickly. Their hands are so slow on recovery that they get
countered before they can even punch again.
LEGS (Power)
By “legs”, I’m referring specifically to the quads and the calf muscles. This is something
that should be ingrained into anybody ever wanting to learn how to do anything powerful
with their body. ALL power comes from the ground, nowhere else! Because your legs
are connected to the ground, they are most responsible for pushing off the ground to
generate power throughout your body. Your legs also happen to carry the biggest muscles
in your body, which is why boxing punches are best thrown with the legs pivoting and
rotating (therefore contributing to the power).
The legs generate the most power! Not the chest and definitely not the triceps. If you look
carefully at many of the most dynamic and complete punches or boxers in history, you will
see that they have big legs more often than big arms or big chests. Look very carefully at
the typical boxer’s body and you won’t find over-developed chests or huge triceps. Marcos
Maidana, Manny Pacquiao, Thomas Hearns, Julian Jackson, and Felix Trinidad are some
names of guys that immediately come to mind. These guys did not have big upper-bodies
but they carried HUGE power in their fists. Even Mike Tyson, as dynamic a puncher as he
was, was still more muscular in his legs than his arms!
You can also think of your hips as your body weight. By using the muscles in your leg to
move your hips with every punch, you will be able to put your entire body weight into each
punch maximizing its power.
The most underrated core muscles are probably the abductors and adductors. I can’t stress
enough how important it is to target these muscles. These muscles allow your feet to grip
harder and more firmly against the ground. Think of the way your fingers grip a basketball.
The stronger the grip, the more control you have over the ball. The stronger your leg’s grip
against the ground, the more control you have over the power generated from the ground.
Many fighters are too busy building the front of their upper body through push-ups and
punching at the heavy bag but very few of them focus on building up the back of the
upper body like the rear shoulders and the back. When you spend all your time hitting the
heavy bag, you may not realize that the heavy bag is bouncing your hand back at you on
the recovery phase. By neglecting to work out your back and rear shoulder muscles, you
will have weaker punch recovery muscles. The moment you start missing punches during
a real fight, your arms will tire very quickly because your back muscles aren’t used to the
weight of the gloves.
I highly recommend training your shoulders for endurance. Don’t worry about making the
shoulders stronger, they only add small amounts of punching power compared to the leg
muscles.
So all your arms really need to do is to reach out and make contact your opponent,
nothing else! Now that you realize your arms are meant for connecting punches and NOT
generating power, you’ll see that it’s more important to have fast arms than powerful arms.
Fast arms give you that speed and snap. The speed helps you sneak that punch past your
opponent’s defense. The snap helps you recover that arm quickly to defend yourself after
punching.
More specifically, the triceps are for speed in straight punches. The biceps are for the speed
and snap in your hooks and uppercuts. Don’t try to bulk up your arms for power; keep
them lean so you can get those fast punches and fast combinations in! Let the lower body
add power while the arms add speed.
Smaller muscles are more about control than they are about size and strength. For
example: it’s better to develop forearm coordination to parry punches than to build
forearm muscle for blocking punches.
Boxing Workout
This is the official ExpertBoxing EASY
boxing workout, great for anyone
just getting into boxing training. This
weekly plan includes boxing drills,
conditioning, and sparring sessions.
The key is taking it slowly. If something feels too hard or too painful, stop immediately. Give
yourself some time to adjust and modify exercises so you don’t develop or reinforce bad
habits. Increase or decrease the reps as needed and skip or replace entire exercises if you
don’t like them. If you don’t have enough time, feel free to skip some of the exercises.
You’ll be working out from Monday through Friday. The sparring days are your easy days,
also known as the “fun days”. Friday is for running only. The weekends are your rest days.
Actually, you know what? This is the EASY boxing workout; take a rest day whenever you
feel like it. Or take an easy week if you need. (Seriously, it’s ok.)
Tuesday - sparring
Thursday - sparring
You are building power, not size or strength. Use lighter weights than what you can handle.
This is conditioning, not weightlifting.
Warm-up
• 15 minutes stretching
• 15 minutes shadowboxing
What if it’s too easy? Increase the reps or difficulty. You can add the running and end-of-
day core workout to Tuesdays and Thursdays as well. Or add some mitts to your workout
every day to develop your boxing skills more quickly.
Clapping push-ups
• Do a push-up and clap as you push yourself up and off the ground.
• 2 sets x 10 reps
• Stand on a box (about 12-24 inches high) or the edge of the ring.
• Drop off, land on the balls of your feet, and immediately bounce back up.
• Rest only at the top and not at the bottom (if you need).
• 2 sets x 20 reps
Alternating Jumps
• Keeping one leg on the floor, raise the other leg to lightly step on the box.
• Keep your weight on the lower leg, and your head over your lower leg.
• 2 sets x 20 reps
Squats
• Bend your knees until your thighs are parallel to the ground, before going back up.
• 2 sets x 30 reps
• Lunge forward on one leg and then return to standing position. Repeat with other leg.
• Stand with a partner facing each other from about 5-10 feet apart.
• Throw the medicine ball back and forth between each other.
• Swing a medicine ball in an upwards diagonal direction at your partner as you rotate your
upper body.
• The other person catches the ball and lets the momentum swing the ball away before
swinging it back again. (NOTE: The ball is swinging in a pendulum rocking motion.)
• Do push-ups from side to side landing a different hand on the ball each time.
• Push a medicine ball straight up into the air as you come up each time.
• Push the medicine ball straight up into the air as you step up.
• Hold a 10-20lb dumbbell with your other arm, with the palm facing you.
• Pull the dumbbell up, bend your elbow as you point it towards the sky.
• The weight 15-80lbs (should not exceed 30% of your body weight).
• Swing it out to the side up to shoulder height and let the weight swing the arm back
down.
• Switch the dumbbell to the other hand at the bottom and let the momentum swing the
other arm out.
Ab Roller
Chin-Ups
• Grip the pull-up bar so that your palms are facing you.
Bag work
Mitt work
• 3 to 4 rounds
• The mitt work can interrupt your bag work anytime your trainer is ready for you.
Core
Running
• Do this at any time of day. It doesn’t matter if it’s before or after your workout.
TUESDAY/THURSDAY - Sparring
If you’re not sparring, you’re not boxing. It becomes “boxercise” which is like taking a
cardio fitness class. Sparring is fun and safe as long as you keep it EASY. Speak up if you
feel uncomfortable. Ask the other guy to slow down or lighten up his punches. Fighting
through the pain will ruin the learning process. Also show your sparring partner the same
respect. Control your punches and give him some breathing room if you’re overwhelming
him. Don’t let your ego destroy the fun of boxing for you or for others.
Warm-up
• 15 minutes stretching
• 15 minutes shadowboxing
• Light work on the mitts with your trainer to learn some new techniques.
Sparring
• Can have an extra last round as “very light punches only” to work at inside range.
• Try to work on the new techniques your trainer just showed you.
Bag work
Warm-up
15 minutes stretching
15 minutes shadowboxing
Footwork Drills
• Straighten the leg as you clap your hands above your head.
T-cone Drill
Foot-Tag
• Have 2 fighters chase each other around the ring trying to step on each other’s feet.
• Once you get better, try “foot-tag” without looking down at each other’s feet.
• Have fun and don’t take the drill too seriously. Stay close to each other and exchange
more foot tags. Try to do this exercise without jumping!
• 2 rounds
Leg-Tag
• Same as ideas as foot-tag but this time fighters try to tag each other’s upper thighs with
their hands.
• 1-2 rounds
Shadowbox Sparring
• Have 2 fighters in the ring shadowboxing against each other as if they’re sparring.
• Encourage them to throw lots of combinations and pay attention to each other.
• 1-2 rounds
• Throw a few punches on each side of the rope before going under again.
• 1-2 rounds
Dumbbell Shadowboxing
• 15 minutes
Punching Drills
• One holds the bag while the other throws fast straight punches on the bag.
• The focus is PURE SPEED, not power! Go as quickly as possible, keep pushing it.
• Lift the knees and move your feet as you punch (high hands, high knees).
• 2 rounds
• 2 fighters pair up on the heavy bag taking turns punching & holding.
• The combos we used were: 1-2-3, 1-2-sidestep-2, 1-3-2, 1-2-5-2, 1-2-3-2-sidestep, 1-1-2.
• Every time you jump back, jump back diagonally to the side.
• Go 3 times moving to your right, repeat again but moving to your left.
• (It’s best if you can “jump” without taking your feet off the ground.)
Jab Race
• Every time a number is called, all fighters jab the bag as quickly as possible.
• Do 3 jab races. (Everyone should be relaxed and focused on pure speed, not power.)
Jab Defense
• Have one fighter chase the other around with multiple jabs at a time.
• The other fighter simply slips and rolls off the jabs (with his hands behind his back).
• The drill works much better if the defender is chasing the puncher.
• First-time boxers can use their hands to defend instead of having to slip.
Bag work
Trainer
• 3 to 4 rounds
Core
Running
• Do this at any time of day. It doesn’t matter if it’s before or after your workout.
• 100 push-ups
• 100 sit-ups
• Stretching
Fridays are your easy days. Be lazy and enjoy it. Run with a partner and talk about stuff. The
3-5 miles will be done before you know it. If you still have lots of energy, do some intense
stretching. Don’t try to sneak an extra workout in.
Staying motivated requires that you don’t use up all your motivation. Save that mental
strength and let your passion for boxing and training grow.
Day 10 - Sparring
Entering the ring...
It is through real life fighting that you truly learn first-hand what works and what doesn’t.
Sparring might not improve your punching ability or defensive technique but it certainly
makes you a better FIGHTER. If there is one tip I could give to beginners, it is to find a way
to spar every day. Go slowly and have fun. Always learn something in sparring. Don’t think
of sparring as a test or rite of passage that you have to work up to. As soon as you can,
jump in the ring and enjoy boxing.
However, don’t spar hard until you’re ready for it. How do you know if you’re ready? If
you’re not scared of getting tired, if you’re not scared of getting hurt. If sparring hard
doesn’t take away your ability to spar the next day, then you are ready to spar. Don’t spar
so hard that you compensate for your lack of technique with heart. Save that fighting heart
for competitions. Be honest and look at yourself in the mirror, only you know what you are
ready for.
Sparring Drills
Please do these drills before you start sparring. I recommend beginners to start slowly.
Actually, slower than slow. Spar in SLOW MOTION if you have to — I’m serious about
this. Run through the basic sparring drills so that you get accustomed to boxing a live
opponent.
Shadowbox Sparring
First time boxers aren’t use to standing face to face across another person. In this drill, two
beginners will shadowbox against each other in the ring. You move around like a real fight,
except you’re 6-12 inches out of range so nobody actually connects with any punches. This
can be done with just hand wraps on (good for warming up), or with gloves on so both of
you can get used to the weight of the gloves.
You’re not throwing random punches whenever you feel like anymore. You have to pay
attention to the man in front of you. Respond to his punches as you throw your own. You
have to move when he moves at you, and throw punches when you see openings. This
might be your first exposure to spontaneity in boxing training. (Beginners: don’t forget to
breathe.)
After the round is over, they switch. Do this for 6 rounds straight. This teaches both fight-
ers the value of focusing their fight on the jab. The boxer with the outstretched arm
develops shoulder muscle that allows him to pump the jab the entire round. The other
boxer is always aware of his opponent’s jab reach and works constantly to avoid the most
important punch in boxing--THE JAB!
Catching Jabs
Here’s your first chance to practice punching at each other, but very lightly. Move around
the ring and take turns catching each other’s jab. Each person takes a few steps in any
direction and then throws a jab as the other one catches. Be calm and smooth. Don’t worry
about scoring. Pay attention to your balance, your stance, and form. Try not to get out of
balance when you throw a jab or defend against one. No flinching!
You guys are not supposed to hit each other hard, no “rocket jabs”. Both fighters are not
allowed to get closer than arm’s length. The goal is to get use to throwing and catching
each other’s punches. The goal is not to actually land jabs, so the fighters should be
throwing easy jabs at each other to make catching easier.
5-Jab Drill
It’s like the catching jabs drill but now each boxer throws 5 at a time before he switches.
This time, be a little more creative in throwing and defending against the jabs. Don’t always
aim for the head. Try aiming for the body, chest, shoulders, or elbows. You can throw your
5 jabs anyway you want. It can be 2 quick ones and 3 slow ones, or all 5 thrown one at a
time. You can throw the jabs any way you want but keep arms distance when you jab.
The defender can avoid the jabs anyway he wants. He can block with the right hand or right
arm. He can parry if he wants, it doesn’t matter. The defender is also free to move entirely
out of range if he wants and just let the jab hit air. As long as the defender isn’t jumping
out of balance to avoid the jabs, moving in and out of range is a great boxing skill to learn.
Another variation of this drill is to throw 2 jabs at a time instead of 5. Each boxer will take
turns throwing double-jabs at each other. The defending boxer has to catch the first one
and slip or out-maneuver the second one.
1-1-2 Drill
Both boxers are now allowed to use their right hand, but combinations are limited to only
3 punches. Both fighters will take turns throwing jab-jab-right combinations. No hooks
or uppercuts allowed. The defender is not allowed to counter, he can only block. This
prepares both fighters to absorb right hands. Again, the power should be light!!! (This drill
helps beginners to recognize the right hand coming after the jab, and to effectively defend
against it instead of flinching away.)
Jab Sparring
Now the boxers are free to spar using ONLY their jabs. Again, no powerful rocket jabs
allowed! The boxers don’t have to go back and forth taking turns anymore. They can attack
and defend at will. Pay attention to form and balance. Make sure the back hand doesn’t
drop while the jab is thrown. Use offensive jabs, defensive jabs, and counter-jabs. Don’t
just aim for the head; throw some at the body or even the other boxer’s guard to test his
defense.
Have the trained fighter touch him here and there, identifying holes in his defense without
hurting him. Make sure his offense and defense are somewhat solid before you let him in
the ring with another beginner. (Getting in the ring with better fighters builds confidence.)
Sparring Tips
Relax
Have fun and don’t get out of control. You have much less endurance than you think.
Fighting a live opponent is much more tiring than fighting a heavy bag, but I’m sure you’ll
find out soon enough. Don’t get tired! You want to spar for as long as possible, 10-15
rounds if you can. You learn so much more when you spar so don’t spend all your energy
in 2 rounds.
Hard Sparring
I was hoping it wouldn’t come to this so soon but I trust that you’ve taken no shortcuts to
prepare yourself. You’re a warrior and this is what warriors do, they FIGHT! Ok, some final
tips on your first real sparring match!
• Box at the center of the ring, punch hard along the ropes.
• 3rd round: empty your gas tank! (use the combinations that worked best and don’t stop
punching even if you’re tired!)
Simple Defense
Keep your defense simple. Block and parry until you see opportunities. Don’t bother rolling
or slipping unless you have a great counter in mind. Even better, don’t roll or slip unless
you have a counter-COMBO in mind. Keep it simple, cover yourself and save your energy. If
you’re going to spend energy, spend it on offense rather than defense.
Aggressive Defense
I could argue that there is no such thing as defense. Use your defense to set up your
offense! Defense is not for you to hide and avoid fighting. You’re always throwing punches
or throwing counter-punches. Stay in range, and stay offensive. Don’t get too reckless or
overly offensive, of course. A good defense makes you more offensive, not more defensive!
Fighting Strategy
Here are some general approaches to fighting different types of fighters. Everybody has
a style and with every style comes a weakness. Sometimes you win with a superior style,
other times you win with better technique. What’s most important is that you find a way
to win with the style and technique you already have. There will always be opponents that
have an advantage over you for some reason. Experience, training, and a good trainer
will help you deal with that. For now I offer some general ideas on how to beat common
styles of opponents. Keep in mind that these are generalizations: not every fighter will fight
exactly to these styles nor will they fight with only one style.
Brawler
Just about everyone starts off as a brawler because he doesn’t know any technique yet. Roll
or block the wide right and come back with some counters. Keep your hands up so none of
the wild punches can land. Use your defense and let him waste energy throwing punches.
When you use footwork against a brawler, make sure you’re doing more walking than
bouncing. Pick the brawler apart with jabs while you let him tire out.
Power Puncher
Many power punchers like to stand in range and trade power shots. If you face one, use
your footwork to establish range and make him miss. When you retreat, step back just an
inch or two so you can counter back after he misses. Beat his heavier punches with faster,
more accurate punches. Box smart, use your jab, use your defense and watch him tire out!
Tall Fighters
Many boxers, amateur and professional all have problems dealing with taller opponents.
The natural instinct is to trade punches with the assumption that the shorter fighter has
more power (because of more muscle) but this isn’t always the case. The taller guy can be
incredibly annoying and keep you away with his jabs. Stay outside his range and dart your
head in and out to make him swing at the air. This will wear out his long arms.
Feel free to trade punches at close range but don’t get crushed under him. If you can,
attack the body and head even when he blocks and push him off balance. Find ways to
walk around him and make him use his legs. Learning how to CALMLY defend against jabs
is crucial to fighting tall fighters.
Short Fighters
Quite possibly the easiest opponent to beat if you throw lots of jabs and don’t get sucked
into brawls. Use your defense and crush the opponent every time he gets close. Imagine
yourself projecting your chest onto his head when he tries to get close to you. If you plan
on using lots of jabs, don’t make it so obvious that he counters easily.
Use a wide variety of punches to get around his guard when he closes up. Throw lots of
punches into his guard when you retreat to keep him on defense. It’s also easier to slip
than to roll under punches against shorter fighters.
Speed Fighters
These guys can be especially dangerous since we all know speed kills. It’s hard to fight an
opponent that outpunches and out moves you. Quite often, this physical attribute alone
can defeat you even if you’re the better skilled boxer. It’s crucial that you learn to move
with perfect balance so that you’re ready to respond.
Learn to time his combinations. Speedy fighters sometimes use the same combinations
over and over because they can get away with it. It helps to use many feints to make the
speedy fighter respond, and follow that up with a real punch. You don’t need to chase him
down and brawl with him. See if you can fight him at a distance like a tall guy and throw
combinations that force him to block. If you can’t hit his head, try aiming for his chest and
work your way up. Instead of throwing power punches, try to touch him with lots of fast
shots. (Fast guys hate getting touched, even on the gloves.) Once you figure out his rhythm,
you can start aiming more towards the head and add power. Hit the speed fighter like a
speed bag not a heavy bag — using timing and accuracy, not power.
Pressure Fighters
Pressure fighters are especially a nightmare if you have a boxer (hit & move) style or don’t
have the greatest conditioning. My nightmare was usually the guys with great endurance,
high punch volume, constant pressure, AND power! Don’t get sucked into trading punches
with them or else you’ll run out of energy fast. If you run away, walk calmly away instead of
bouncing around. Instead of trying to block and counter his every punch, focus on his best
punches. Suppose he likes the right hand, keep moving and wait for his right hand. Once
you see it, evade and counter hard. If you stop him in his tracks, try to follow him up.
Pressure fighters are also known to slip and roll under a lot. If he rolls under you, try to
lean over him to trap his head under you and walk into him to crush him. This will give you
some time to breathe and also a chance to regain some ground.
Defensive Fighters
Many crafty boxers will hide behind a defense all day and let you tire out. Others will be
incredibly annoying by potshotting you behind a high guard. Instead of trying to force a
brawl or waste punches into their guard, you can treat them like a speed fighter. Throw fast
and light punches with little power to try and touch them. Keep touching them here and
there, and punch their arms every now and then to keep them pinned. Aim up and down.
Use some feints to see if you can get a reaction out of them. Or throw a test punch and slip
their counter. If they’re hiding behind a really high guard, see if you can walk around them
slightly to get into a better position and then throw around their guard.
Southpaws
Southpaws are left-handed fighters. They stand with the right hand in front and are
potentially every right-hander’s nightmare. The punches come from an angle you’re just
not use to. There are three conventional pieces of advice for fighting southpaws: 1) Keep
your front foot outside his front foot. This puts him in your punching range and slightly
takes you outside of his punching range. The fighter with the outside front foot has a
better position during southpaw-orthodox match-ups! 2) Avoid his left hand. Learn how to
slip it and counter it. If you can avoid the southpaw’s deadly left cross, you can defeat the
southpaw! 3) Throw your right hand. Throw lead rights, straight rights, and overhand rights.
Keep your right hand busy. It’s a key punch against the southpaw along with your jab.
Bigger Opponents
This isn’t a fair fight but it happens all the time. Fighting a big opponent is like fighting a
taller fighter, shorter fighter, power puncher, and pressure fighter all at once. It’s hard to
beat him if he’s bigger than you AND more skilled than you are. Walk calmly around him
instead of jumping. Use footwork and head movement to make him miss. Throw punches
but don’t trade. Instead of blocking every shot, try to focus on his biggest punches and use
that opportunity to counter or escape off the ropes.
Additional Resources:
It doesn’t matter if you win or lose. Seriously, you went in there...you had fun, you had
a great workout. If you lost, just know that it’s not easy losing. (If it were, more people
would be in the ring, right?) If you won, just know you’re only better than the person you
fought and only for that instance. You still have a responsibility to improve. Failure is part of
developing success.
Win or lose, I want you to celebrate your first sparring match. You can be hard on yourself
tomorrow but always celebrate today’s improvement. You’ve gone so far and you deserve
it.
Final Words
A few words of advice. Things to think about as you journey
beyond the basics.
Technique vs Physicality
Now everyone wants to know what matters most, technique or physicality? It’s both. Good
conditioning allows you to practice more technique. Good technique allows you to last
longer and fight more effectively and efficiently. Beginners need to get in shape AND refine
their technique. Over-training increase the risk of injury or burning yourself out. Focusing
too much on technique takes away time from sparring and developing your body’s fighting
reflexes.
The easiest way to learn how to use your body and develop a better body awareness is to
expose yourself to different styles and different techniques. The more you expose yourself
to different methods, the more control you will have over your body in the future, which
then gives you a higher capacity to learn new and more complicated fighting techniques.
Perfection vs Automation
When is something good enough? Good enough doesn’t mean when you can do
something perfect, but when you can do it instinctually (automatically). I remember a time
when my trainer told me, “You’re not ready for competition; you keep dropping your right
hand when you throw the left hook.” To which, I retorted, “You mean like this?” as I showed
him a picture-perfect left hook while keeping my right hand raised. My trainer snapped
back, “Yeah, but you weren’t doing that automatically when I watched you 5 minutes ago. I
had to tell you to do it.”
When you can do everything perfectly without consciously thinking about it, that is when
your technique is good enough. The greatest fighters aren’t thinking about technique
when they fight, they are thinking about fighting!
Additional Resource: Automatic Boxing Skills - Take Your Game to the Next Level
Beginners should expose themselves to as many styles as possible and work on everything.
Over time, some styles will feel more comfortable and you will end up with a perfect style
made up of bits and pieces of other styles you learned along the way.
Don’t go out looking for the BEST technique or the BEST style, instead learn ALL techniques
and ALL styles. This will serve you well when you face an opponent that knows how to
counter one style perfectly, you can switch to another.
He taught me that the most important thing to teach a boxer was not skills or technique,
but how to think for himself. Teaching boxers how to teach themselves. He taught me
how to analyze fights and copy technique. Funny thing is, coach Brian never taught me
any real technique, yet I learned more from him than many of my other coaches. I learned
how to emulate others, I learned how to analyze another fighter’s technique. Just by
fighting another fighter, I could duplicate his success. Even by watching other fighters, I am
sometimes able to copy their technique. I was able to learn on my own because I learned
the process of observing carefully.
It all starts with the process of questioning. “Why should I put my foot this way?” Well, try
it another way. Invent 5 different ways to place your feet and see how each of them affect
you. If you can’t tell the difference, your technique isn’t refined enough that it even matters.
If you CAN tell the difference, learn what difference it makes.
When an opponent beats you, instead of trying to beat him...try to change your style. Have
him beat you in 5 different ways. Try one attack and see how he reacts. Ask yourself why he
keeps reacting that way. See if you can do something different to make him react different.
Don’t keep doing the same thing and expecting a different result. TRY DIFFERENT THINGS!
Boxing is a sweet science, so be a scientist — EXPERIMENT!
To develop true punching power, start with perfect form so that your body is able to
leverage all of its muscles effectively. With practice your body will become faster and more
efficient at contracting all your punching muscles simultaneously so that your punch is
faster and uses more muscle (not more effort) in a shorter period. True power doesn’t
require so much muscle but rather the timing all your muscles to “punch” simultaneously.
Muscle conditioning for power punching requires exercises that develop speed, power and
endurance. Fast punching tabata drills and core exercises are preferred over slow exercises
like heavy weight lifting. When you punch, drop your body weight and bend your knees.
Let your weight project down into the ground instead of forward into your opponent.
To maximize the amount of power transferred to your opponent, learn how to use angles,
timing, and accuracy. Training with the speed bag, double-end bag, and focus mitts will
teach you how to punch at the right time and in the right place so that you inflict the most
damage possible. This ability is what sets the experienced boxer apart from the average
power puncher. Angles, timing, and accuracy takes years to develop and make any punch
far more deadly than just power alone. Ultimately, power is wasted if you don’t know how
to place it.
Physical endurance is part cardio and part arm endurance. To develop your cardio, make
sure you run regularly and use good fighting technique. It helps to be well-conditioned but
staying calm and using good technique makes the most difference. Develop your arm and
shoulder endurance to sustain punches in the later rounds by working with the speed bag
often. It also helps to do fast punching tabata drills on the heavy bag. Shadowbox regularly
so that your recovery muscles are just as conditioned as your punching muscles.
Additional Resources:
Have a purpose for fighting, have a game plan and stick to it. Be afraid but also be
prepared. Failure always comes before success. Learn to give it your best shot and accept
yourself regardless of what happens. Coach yourself positively to bring out the best in you.
Most importantly: have fun. There is no other way to improve quickly than to have a
passion for it. Protect your passion, don’t let yourself burn out physically or mentally from
working too hard. It takes years to develop a champion, physically, mentally, spiritually. The
individuals that have the most fun learning and tackling challenges will learn the fastest.
The individuals that push themselves too hard and get down on themselves for every
failure will eventually quit. My secret to getting better quickly is to have fun. Work hard but
have fun; put that together and you have passion. Continuous passion leads to success.
They’re not invincible, they’re just as human as anybody else. They have fear, and they
feel pain too just like the rest of us. The difference lies in that they’re still willing to do
everything possible to achieve their dream. Great fighters don’t let pain, criticism, and
failure bring them down. Great fighters have fun but don’t let video games, parties, and
girls distract them from their goals. The only thing great fighters live for is success and it’s
this clear vision that leads to inevitable success.
Mentally, you should be excited to fight. This is what we live for! Sure, be nervous and
scared but then look back at your training and realize that this fight is a step forward into
the future. You’re going to find out what you do well and what needs improving.
Eat lightly the day of the fight. Be ready to counter hard crosses and hooks. Win or lose,
FIGHT CONFIDENTLY. 3-5 shots and get out. Go to the head and body. Pump the jab and
look for opportunities for your right cross. Fire fast punches at close range and get out!
Final Checklist
Can you demonstrate and teach others these boxing basics?
• Work the heavy bag, speed bag, and double-end bag consistently for 3 rounds each?
If you can do all this, congratulations, you’ve learned the basics of boxing!
Congratulations!
Congratulations on learning the fundamentals of boxing!
You’re not many steps closer to becoming a champ! I’m so proud of you, I really am. Not
because you stepped into the ring...but because you found something you were passionate
about and you went for it. You might have doubted yourself but you didn’t let it stop you.
You took matters into your own hands, you put in the hard work, and made it a reality. The
skills, work ethics, and positive attitude you learned in this book will make you successful
in all areas of your life. People like you aren’t just great boxers; they become the most
successful and happiest people on Earth. Keep working hard, make those dreams come
true, and live the life you’ve always wanted. Cheers!
Contact Me
Please don’t hesitate to email me if you have any comments or suggestions about this
boxing course. I’m really interested in your success stories, and I want to be as much help
to you as possible.
Email: expertboxing@gmail.com