RPi Hardware
RPi Hardware
RPi Hardware
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Contents
[hide]
1Introduction
2Raspberry Pi Hardware History
3Specifications
4Components
5Schematic / Layout
6Power
o 6.1Power supply problems
6.1.1How can I tell if the power supply is inadequate?
6.1.2Things that can cause problems
6.1.3Summary
o 6.2Capacitor C6
7References
Introduction
The first product introduced from the Raspberry Pi foundation was the size of a credit card, and
was designed to plug into a TV or HDMI monitor. The foundation has kept this form factor over
the revisions but have increased the performace while keeping the relavively low price point.
The GPIO pins on each board allow the use of optional expansion boards. The current price for
the the model A+ is $20, while the model B+ and Raspberry Pi 2 are both $35 each.
Several different minor hardware versions/revisions RaspberryPi Boards have been found
probably from different assembly lines. Try to identify your board for better troubleshooting and
update it if you have one which is not mentioned.
Those who are looking to set up a Raspberry Pi for the first time, see RPi Hardware Basic Setup.
To view the full history on the hardware of the Raspberry Pi check out the Rpi Hardware
History.
Specifications
Model Raspberr Raspberry Pi Raspberry
Model A Model B Model A+
B+ y Pi 2 3 Pi Zero
US$35 US$20 US$35 US$35
US$25
Ext tax Ext tax Ext tax Ext tax US$35 Ext tax US$5 Ext
Target Ext tax
(GBP £22 (GBP £16 (GBP (GBP £22 (GBP £22 Exc tax (GBP £4
price:[1] (GBP £16
Exc Exc VAT) £22 Exc Exc VAT) VAT) Exc VAT) [4]
Exc VAT) [2] [3]
VAT) VAT)
System-on-
Broadcom BCM2835 (CPU + GPU. Broadcom Broadcom Broadcom
a-chip
SDRAM is a separate chip stacked on top) BCM2836 BCM2837 BCM2835
(SoC):[1]
900MHz 1.2GHz 64-bit 1000MHz
quad-core quad-core Low Power
CPU: 700 MHz ARM11 ARM1176JZF-S core
ARMv7 ARMv8 ARM1176JZ
Cortex-A7 Cortex-A53 -F
Broadcom
VideoCore
IV, OpenGL
ES
Broadcom VideoCore IV, OpenGL ES 2.0,OpenVG Broadcom
2.0,OpenVG
GPU: 1080p30 H.264 high-profile encode/decode, 250 VideoCore
1080p60
MHz IV
H.264 high-
profile
encode/decod
e, 400 MHz
256 MiB
(planned 256 MiB
with (until 15
Memory 128 MiB, Oct
512 Mi
(SDRAM)i upgraded 2012); 256 MiB 1024 MiB 512 MiB
B
B to 512 MiB
256 MiB (since 15
on 29 Feb Oct 2012)
2012)
2 USB
1 USB 2.0 2.0 (via 1 USB 2.0
(provided integrated (provided 1 Micro
4 USB 2.0 (via integrated USB
USB ports: by the USB hub by the USB OTG
hub in LAN9514)
BCM2835 in BCM2835 (On The Go)
) LAN9512 )
)
HDMI,
Composite video |
Composite
Video Composite RCA, HDMI | Composite video requires 4 Pole
video via
outputs:[1] HDMI (not at the Adapter
unsoldered
same time)
2-pin header
Audio Multi-
TRS connector | 3.5 mm jack, HDMI
outputs:[1] Channel HD
Audio over
HDMI
Audio
None, but a USB mic or sound-card could be added
inputs:
Secure Digital|SD /
Onboard
MMC / SDIO card Micro Secure Digital / MicroSD slot
Storage:
slot
10/100 wired
Ethernet
10/100
RJ45,
Onboard wired 10/100 wired
None None integrated None
Network:[1] Ethernet Ethernet RJ45
802.11n Wi-Fi
RJ45
& Bluetooth
4.1
40 General
26 General Purpose
Purpose
Input/Output (GPIO)
Input/Output
pins, Serial
40 General Purpose Input/Output (GPIO) pins, (GPIO) pins,
Peripheral Interface
Low-level Serial Peripheral Interface Bus (SPI), I²C, Serial
Bus (SPI), I²C, I²S[5],
peripherals: I²S,[5] I2C IDC Pins, Universal asynchronous Peripheral
Universal
receiver/transmitter (UART) Interface
asynchronous
Bus (SPI)
receiver/transmitter
(unpopulated
(UART)
)
Real-time
None
clock:[1]
600mA up 800mA (4.0
Power 300 mA, 700 mA, ~650 mA, 160mA
to 1.2A @ W), up to
ratings: (1.5 W) [1] (3.5 W) (3.0 W)[6] rating
5V 2.5A
Power
5 V (DC) via Micro USB type B or GPIO header
source:[1]
85.0 x
85.0 x 85.0 x 65.0 x 85.0 x
56.0 85.6 x 56.5 65.0 x 30.0
Size: 56.0 mm x 56.0 mm 56.0 mm x 56.0 mm x
mm x mm x 17mm mm x 5mm
15mm x 17mm 12mm 17mm
17mm
Weight: 31g 40g 23g 40g 40g 45g 9g
Components
A diagram denoting the places of the different components on the Raspberry Pi, made by Paul
Beech, edited to show 256 MB RAM for both boards
(Provisional - some of the expansion interfaces won't be available on production boards) (PCB
IDs are those of the Model B Beta board)
Board size: 85.60 mm x 53.98 mm. Overall height expected to be less than 25 mm. [13]
Production boards measure 85.0 mm x 56.0 mm.
o A Model B between the highest points (USB connector to card slot) measured
21 mm.
o A Model A between the highest points (composite video connector to card slot)
measured 18 mm.
Weight: under 40 g?
o Alpha board weighs approx. 55 g.[14]
o A sample model B weighed 39.45 g.
6 layer PCB [13]
Schematic / Layout
PCB screenshot, Alpha board
PCB screenshot rev 1.0
PCB screenshot rev 1.0, labelled version
Preliminary power supply schematic, Beta board
High-resolution Model B PCB front photo, production board rev 1.0
High-resolution Model B PCB back photo, production board rev 1.0
High-resolution Model B PCB front photo, production board rev 2.0
High-resolution Model A PCB front photo, production board rev 2.0
GIMP project containing properly aligned versions of the high-res PCB photos and
Gerbers on separate layers (117MB)
"Xray style" image of the beta board, created from the above GIMP project | desktop
wallpapers
Official Rev 1.0 schematics PDF | Official Rev 2.0 schematics PDF | differences | errata |
breakdown | partial BOM
'Module groups' of the PCB photos
Power
The board takes fixed 5 V input, (with the 1.2 V core voltage generated directly from the input
using the internal switch-mode supply on the BCM2835 die). This permits adoption of the micro
USB form factor, which, in turn, prevents the user from inadvertently plugging in out-of-range
power inputs; that would be dangerous, since the 5 V would go straight to HDMI and output
USB ports, even though the problem should be mitigated by some protections applied to the
input power: The board provides a polarity protection diode, a voltage clamp, and a self-resetting
semiconductor fuse.
Board A: 5 V, 500 mA (2.5 W) without any devices connected (e.g. USB, Ethernet,
HDMI)
Board B: 5 V, 700 mA (3.5 W) without any devices connected (e.g. USB, Ethernet,
HDMI) (Is this correct? These [1] links [2] suggest that the 700 mA is only required if
"using networking and high-current USB peripherals" [3].)
You will need to provide a power supply that can provide enough current to power the device
plus any connected peripherals, and taking into account inefficiencies of the supply itself and the
cable between the power supply and Raspberry Pi. The community advises opting for a power
supply that can supply at least 1 A if using USB peripherals or Pi plates that draw more than a
few tens of milliamperes of current.
As the 5 V rail is brought out in the GPIO pins, you can power the Raspberry Pi from
there too. You should mind however, that those are behind the power protection circuitry,
so you should provide your own.
It is possible to power the Raspberry Pi from a powered USB hub the Raspberry Pi
controls, but only on 'dumb' devices, that allow the port to supply the full current without
waiting for the USB device to ask for it[4]. As the power input of the Raspberry Pi
doesn't have its data leads connected, there is no chance for a communication loop of
some sorts.
POE (power over Ethernet) is currently not available for the Raspberry Pi (but nobody
stops you from taking your soldering iron and doing it yourself - mind though that the
Ethernet jack on the board is a 'magjack' -
http://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Prototyping/MagJack.pdf - which means that the
usual 'dumb or passive PoE' power pins 47 and 78 are *not* wired through to the board.
So this is not an entirely trivial exercise).
Back-Powering; (powering the Raspberry Pi from a USB hub through the uplink/data
port, single cable) Back powering is possible on the Raspberry Pi, but not advisable.
Revision 1.0 boards have to be modified to back power, this is due to the 140 mA
"polyfuses" that are installed in the USB port circuit. Revision 1.1 boards do not need
modifications to back-power, they have replaced the polyfuses with 0 ohm resistors in
their place. Revision 2.0 boards do not need modification, they have neither resistors nor
polyfuses. It is advised that short (12" (.3 meter) or less) USB cables be used for back-
powering a Raspberry Pi. Cable resistance plus connector resistance can quickly reduce
operating voltages below the proper range (5.25 V to 4.75 V). But do note that if you do
not power the Raspberry Pi in the "official manner", that is through its micro-USB port,
but use any alternative way (such as through the GPIO header, the test points TP1 and
TP2), but also by back-powering it, you are actually bypassing the Raspberry Pi's
input polyfuse protection device! This can have extreme consequences if ever you
manage to put more than 6 V on the Raspberry Pi, even for a very short period. As this
causes the overvoltage device D17 on the Raspberry Pi to trigger and short the 5 V
supply! Without the polyfuse limiting the current through D17, it will burn out, probably
melting the Raspberry Pi's enclosure with it, (if you have any) and possibly causing a
fire-hazard. It will probably also create a permanent short of the 5 V supply! So be
warned, and if you use back power make sure your hub or its PSU has a fuse to prevent
this from happening. If not, add your own fuse.
There have been a number of problems reported that seem to be caused by inadequate power,
this is an attempt to explain what is needed and the consequences of not having enough power.
The power required by the Pi will vary depending on how busy it is and what peripherals are
connected.
This means that it's difficult to say exactly how much power is needed. People have reported
current requirements of between 300 mA and 550 mA. But it could in reality take more,
especially for short periods. A simple multimeter will not show short surges on the power
requirement. A surge in the power requirement for a few milliseconds will not be detectable by a
meter but will be enough to cause problems. If the board does not get enough power the voltage
will drop. If it drops enough parts of the system will run unreliably because data can get
corrupted. The USB IC runs on 5 V and handles the USB and Ethernet ports so it's likely that
this will be the first thing to fail. Problems seen are unreliable Ethernet connection and unreliable
operation of the Keyboard and/or mouse.
Each of the two USB ports on the Pi has a polyfuse rated at 140 mA, so any connected USB
devices should draw less than this amount of current. In addition the polyfuse will cause a
significant voltage drop, so that USB devices get less voltage than is available on the Raspberry
Pi itself, sometimes up to half a volt less (maybe more if the fuse has recently been hot). For
regular "low power" USB devices this doesn't cause a problem as they are designed to work with
voltages as low as 4.4 volt. This isn't the case however with some USB devices such as Wi-Fi
dongles which may need 4.75 volt, and are also known to draw more than 150 mA when
configured and active. Because of the problems these polyfuses caused Raspberry Pi's produced
after August 25, 2012 have the USB polyfuses F1 & F2 removed (replaced with shorts).
The microUSB input port also has a 1.1 A polyfuse (700 mA "hold current") which may also
have enough resistance (although much smaller than the 140 mA fuses) to cause a significant
voltage drop on the board, even below its 1.1 A total current.
A extended explanation of the consequences of the use of these polyfuses can be found here
Polyfuses explained
There are several reasons why the power to the board may be inadequate:
The PSU may not deliver enough power. Although the maximum power requirement is
said to be 700 mA, that is with no peripherals connected (USB, Ethernet etc), so a
1000 mA PSU should be regarded as a minimum. This allows some leeway in case the
power supply cannot deliver its full power without the voltage dropping.
The PSU is not regulated.
The cable connecting the PSU to the Pi may not be good. People have reported cables
with 4 ohms resistance on the power connections. At 500 mA drain this would reduce a
5 V supply to 3 V.
If the PSU is unregulated it can also output too high a voltage, which may trigger the
overvoltage device in the Raspberry Pi, which will temporarily short the 5 V to ground,
this will then "blow" polyfuse F3, which will take several days to recover from.
Meanwhile (possibly with another PSU) the Raspberry Pi might not get enough power
because the (partly) blown polyfuse is consuming some of the power. The solution is
when this happens to ways a few days to give the polyfuse time to recover before
attempting to use the better PSU. If you suspect a blow polyfuse, measure the voltage
across F3, which should be less than 0.05 volt.
Unreliable Ethernet or keyboard operation, especially if it's OK at first but not when the
GUI is started.
SD card errors at start up seems to be another symptom of poor power.
If you think you have a problem with your power supply, it is a good idea to check the actual
voltage on the Raspberry Pi circuit board. Two test points labelled TP1 and TP2 are provided on
the circuit board to facilitate voltage measurements.
Use a multimeter which is set to the range 20 volts DC (or 20 V =). You should see a voltage
between 4.75 and 5.25 volts. Anything outside this range indicates that you have a problem with
your power supply or your power cable, or the input polyfuse F3. Anything inside, but close to
the limits, of this range may indicate a problem.
Things that can cause problems
Summary
If you are having unreliable operation the first thing to do is check your power supply.
Start with a good quality regulated power supply that is rated to provide 5 V and at least
1 A (1000 mA).
Use a good quality micro USB cable. Cables are notorious for giving trouble so be
prepared to swap for another one.
Not all power supplies will deliver what they claim.
Capacitor C6
Behind the microUSB power connector on the Model B is a metallic grey component called a
capacitor, marked as C6. This capacitor helps stabilise the DC power on the board, but for some
it has also become a place for their thumb when removing the Raspberry Pi's power lead;
unfortunately, this can result in the capacitor breaking off! It has been stated in the forums that
the type of capacitor used for C6 will be changed on later Raspberry Pi models for one with
sturdier leads. If you do break off your C6 capacitor, it's highly likely that your Raspberry Pi will
still work properly, unless you have a particularly unstable power supply, but the general advice
is to not use C6 as a leverage point when removing the power connector and also take care when
storing or transporting your Raspberry Pi if it's not fitted in a case - try not to stow the board
where C6 could be knocked by other items - for example in a laptop carry case or in amongst
some books.
Capacitor C6 (ringed)
It's unlikely that replacing a broken off C6 capacitor will be covered under warranty, but
fortunately they are easy to replace if you have average soldering skills, but remember that
reworking your Raspberry Pi will void its warranty too. C6 is a surface mount electrolytic
capacitor with a capacitance of 220 microfarad (μF) and a voltage rating of 16 volt (V). The
capacitor is polarised and so must be fitted the right way round - notice the black marking on one
side in the picture above. A replacement capacitor can be purchased from numerous sources - for
example:
Farnell
Rapid Electronics
RS Components
If you prefer to make your own PSU - see: Power Supply construction - HowTo
References
1. ↑ Jump up to: 1.0 1.1 1.2 1.3 1.4 1.5 1.6 1.7 http://www.raspberrypi.org/faqs
2. Jump up ↑ http://www.raspberrypi.org/raspberry-pi-model-a-plus-on-sale/
3. Jump up ↑ http://www.raspberrypi.org/raspberry-pi-2-on-sale/
4. Jump up ↑ https://www.raspberrypi.org/blog/raspberry-pi-zero/
5. ↑ Jump up to: 5.0 5.1 5.2 Forum:Sad about removal of I2S. Why was this change made?
6. Jump up ↑ Element 14 Raspberry Pi Model B+
7. Jump up ↑ Wikipedia:Auto-MDIX
8. Jump up ↑ RPiBlog Post: High-res pics of the PCBs
9. Jump up ↑ TwitPic:Photo of Board Powered
10. Jump up ↑ Forum:What do the status indicator LEDs indicate the status of?
11. Jump up ↑ RPi_schematic_errata
12. Jump up ↑ RPiBlog Post: A nice shiny photo of the rev2 board – and User Guide news
13. ↑ Jump up to: 13.0 13.1 http://www.raspberrypi.org/archives/344
14. Jump up ↑
http://www.raspberrypi.org/?page_id=43&mingleforumaction=viewtopic&t=285.0