Vogue September 2015 AU

Exclusive:
Nicole
Kidman
in Uluru
Heart of the
Outback
JU E R G E N T E L L E R
A curated series of photography:

JUERGEN TELLER and B R U C E W E B ER
S o l d e x c l u s i v e l y i n L o u i s Vu i t t o n s t o r e s . 13 0 0 8 8 3 8 8 0 l o u i s v u i t t o n . c o m
JUERGEN TELLER
BRUCE WEBER
A curated series of photography:

JUERGEN TELLER and B R U C E W E B ER
S o l d e x c l u s i v e l y i n L o u i s Vu i t t o n s t o r e s . 13 0 0 8 8 3 8 8 0 l o u i s v u i t t o n . c o m
BR U C E W E B E R
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SEPTEMBER 2015
VOL LX No 9 Whole No 615, *RECOMMENDED PRICE
COVER
Nicole Kidman wears a Chanel dress, worn as coat. Narciso Rodriguez
dress. Tiffany & Co. necklaces. Make-up from Chanel, starting with
Vitalumière Aqua and Les Beiges Healthy Glow Sheer Powder in 20;
on eyes, Les 4 Ombres eyeshadow in Tissé Mademoiselle and Inimitable
Mascara in Noir Black; on lips, Rouge Coco lip colour in Adrienne.
Fashion editor: Christine Centenera Photographer: Will Davidson
Hair: Sophie Roberts Make-up: Liz Kelsh
Shot on location in Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park
WONDER LAND
60 EDITOR’S LETTER
PAGE 218
70 READERS’ LETTERS
SPIRIT OF 72 CONTRIBUTORS
INDIVIDUALITY 76 THIS MONTH ON VOGUE.COM.AU
PAGE 89 82 VOGUE 180° Akira Isogawa,
the designer with the lightest
touch returns to Vogue 180°.
VOGUE VIEW
89 SPIRIT OF INDIVIDUALITY
The fashion wheel keeps spinning
with the shock of the new.
112 BORN IN THE USA You don’t
have to be an American to feel
American in Ralph Lauren.
114 IT’S SHOWTIME The sets, the
sidelines and the spectacles from
WILL DAVIDSON BENNY HORNE INDIGITAL
the autumn/winter ’15/’16 shows.

120 FREE REIN The master alchemist
and fine jewellery director of Hermès
proves his mettle once again.
SUBSCRIBE TO 121 THE FINISHING TOUCH The
LET’S
BOUNCE
VOGUE
TURN TO PAGE 214 TO
new season’s fantastical shoes and
handbags and fanciful brooches.
138 TRUNK SHOW Louis Vuitton’s
SUBSCRIBE OR RENEW AND
PAGE 244 RECEIVE A BONUS NOTEBOOK. heritage trunks are reimagined and
resized in a modern evolution.
46 – SEPTEMBER 2015
®
SEPTEMBER 2015
RISE & SHINE MODERN LOVE
PAGE 185 PAGE 168
ARTS
166 ANATOMY OF AN ARCHIBALD
Two of Australia’s most successful
creatives met to create an entry
THE FINISHING INVOGUE
in this year’s Archibald prize.
TOUCH 145 CHA-CHUNG Alexa Chung,
168 MODERN LOVE No lover of
PAGE 121 the Brit multitasker with a style all
modern Australasian art would want to
miss this year’s Sydney Contemporary.
of her own, makes her next move. 172 HOUSE RULES Louis Vuitton
148 MARC FOR LIFE He climbed honours the architect of its art museum
fast, fell hard but ascended again. with an exhibition in Beijing.
Marc Jacobs remains one of the 174 RETURN TO FORM Having just
world’s most influential designers. released a new album, Natalie Imbruglia
154 MARKET VALUES The work discusses her eternal love of music.
of a top fashion buyer affords a certain 178 ON POINTE The Australian Ballet
knowledge set. Teneille Ferguson invites an innovative young architect to
CORDELIA TRIUMPHANT (2015) BY OLIVER WATTS
shares her wardrobe secrets. bring new life to set and costume design
156 A STITCH IN TIME When clothes for an upcoming production.
designer Ossie Clark met textile designer 180 WHAT’S ON … A photography
GAVIN O’NEILL EDWARD URRUTIA
Celia Birtwell, fashion sparks flew. pioneer; a huge exhibition of

160 SMALL TALK Joan Smalls is a model masterpieces from the Hermitage;
at the top of her game. She tells of how plus culture in Queensland and
hard she played to get there and why it’s Western Australia.
important to do it your way. 182 THE ACTIVIST A long career
162 NEW FLAME Driven, focused blending politics and diplomacy has
and poised for the future, Kyly Clarke taken Natasha Stott Despoja’s fight for
lights a new path. female equality to the world stage.
Shop 3035 Level 3 Westfield Sydney (02) 8203 0901
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SEPTEMBER 2015
TUNNEL VISION
PAGE 300
TAKING
FLIGHT
PAGE 284
FEATURES
236 SACRED HEART Nicole Kidman
visits Uluru to participate in a sacred
women’s ceremony.
268 ROMAN EMPEROR Gucci’s new
creative director, Alessandro Michele.
284 TAKING FLIGHT Jordan Askill’s
BEAUTY passion for the natural world makes
him ideal to design a butterfly-themed
185 RISE & SHINE Metallic make-up collection for Georg Jensen.
gets a timely makeover.
290 THE BIG IDEA Natalie Massenet
190 MOOD AWAKENING There was celebrates the 15th birthday of her
a moodier, bolder and more definitive brainchild Net-A-Porter in style.
attitude to beauty this season.
294 THE NEW MIX How did activewear
198 BEAUTY BITES The latest news, labels get so good at fashion?
views and cosmetics confections.
296 FAIRYTALE FIND David McAllister’s
202 MADE TO MEASURE Today’s vision for his Australian Ballet production
enlightened consumers seek of Sleeping Beauty.
products tailored just for them.
300 TUNNEL VISION Blogger and
206 BIG BREAK Taking the model Candice Lake’s home in an
guesswork out of colouring. old railway arch in London.
JAMIE HAWKESWORTH CANDICE LAKE JUSTIN RIDLER
FASHION FIRST CLASS

218 WONDER LAND Two of Australia’s 305 THE RED CENTRE With its raw
most recognised symbols, Nicole Kidman natural beauty and rich Indigenous
and Uluru, come face to face. culture, Uluru is one of the most
244 LET’S BOUNCE It’s all about mixing it captivating and spiritual places on Earth.
up this season and being in the moment. 308 ROCK STEADY Discover the action
260 PRETTY PUNK Soft, sweet and behind the scenes at Uluru with Nicole
deeply subversive, with attitude. Kidman and the Vogue team.
274 NEW VINTAGE A soft coat, a 312 HOROSCOPES
ROMAN EMPEROR languid dress, skin through lace, all edged
314 WHERE TO BUY
PAGE 268 with brooches and rings, as worn by
muse, musician and model Julia Cumming. 320 LAST WORD
NICOLE KIDMAN’S CHOICE
NICOLE KIDMAN’S CHOICE

®
VOGUE.COM.AU
EDWINA McCANN
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF editor@vogue.com.au
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Open a whole new world

editor’s LETTER
Nicole Kidman
on set at Uluru.
T
his is a very special issue. Nicole Kidman is
one of the most famous women in the world,
a proud Australian and a pleasure to work
with. Often a celebrity is promoting a project
when they sit for our covers; an actor may
have a new flm release or a musician might
have a tour or a new album coming up. Tis
cover is about something else entirely. It focuses on Australia’s
spiritual heartland and, importantly, the Anangu women who
belong to that area and their work in preserving their culture.
In March, and in celebration of International Women’s Day,
Nicole graciously agreed to write for Vogue about her work as a UN
Women goodwill ambassador. She wrote: “As a mother, I teach my
WILL DAVIDSON
children to live with respect for others in all their wonderful cultural
diversity, to aspire to humanitarian goals and to reject discrimination
…” At Vogue, Nicole’s words inspired this very special project and
shoot, which celebrates the 30th anniversary next month of the
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editor’s LETTER
Sunny Kidman
Urban dances with
local girls at Uluru.
handing back of Uluru–Kata Tjuta National Park to its traditional

owners, the Anangu people, by the Australian government.
It was a symbolic high point for land rights, one that ensures
culture and country is at the heart of the park’s management today.
When we suggested to Nicole that she might travel to Uluru at
the invitation of the Anangu people to learn about their culture
and ancestry through experiencing an Anangu women’s ceremony,
her response was an immediate and defnite yes. Nicole asked if
she might bring her children and mother, too. Read about her
extraordinary experience from page 236.
At Vogue, we are also very proud of the accompanying fashion
shoot (see page 218), and we hope both features and our travel story
(from page 305) will encourage more people, Australians or not, to
journey to this very special place and take an interest in its people.
“Te colours cannot be captured, even in a photograph,” Nicole
told us after the shoot. “People always ask me where they should
go in Australia: now I’m going to say Uluru.”
Nicole wrote to the crew individually to thank them personally
for the pictures and to thank me for the experience. She is simply
all class – a wonderful ambassador for Australia and a giving and
sincere UN goodwill ambassador for women. I hope this will be
a September issue that you keep and remember forever.
WILL DAVIDSON
Edwina McCann
Editor-in-chief
FLÂNEUR FOREVER
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vogueREADER
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vogueCONTRIBUTORS
KATHRYN TOZER
“I loved seeing people from such different
backgrounds sitting on the red earth talking
together,” says interpreter Kathryn Tozer, who was
on location during our cover shoot at Uluru. “We
went out together to check the sites so the Vogue
photographer and team could explain the images they
wanted to capture and the traditional owners could
explain aspects of their cultural obligations.” The
highlight for Tozer was “the willingness of the Vogue
WILL DAVIDSON team and Nicole to respect this place and its people”.
New York-based photographer Will Davidson
was excited when he was first approached by
Vogue for a very unique assignment: shooting
Nicole Kidman at Uluru for our cover story AMANDA
“Wonder Land”, from page 218. “I loved
going to Uluru. It’s a very special place. I have
WELLSH
In this issue celebrating
a huge amount of respect for its presence and individualism, model and
what it represents to the community.” Vogue Australia favourite
Although it wasn’t the first time Davidson Amanda Wellsh appears
had worked with our cover girl, whom he in “Let’s bounce”, starting
describes as a “dream to shoot”. “It’s always on page 244. Wellsh says
awesome working with Nicole,” he adds. working with photographer
Benny Horne was
“incredible”. “He allows
you to move and work with
freedom in terms of posing.”
Wellsh says if she wasn’t a
model: “I’d be trying to be
MICHAEL a model. I really cannot see
myself doing anything else!”
WILLIAMS
PAUL KEEBLE JONATHAN TASKER KATHRYN TOZER
“My favourite thing about the

job is to see the sketches of
original costume and set DAVID BROGAN
designs realised successfully on The owner of the production-van firm
stage,” says Michael Williams, BigVan was enlisted to drive from
PRUE VERCOE AMANDA WELLSH
wardrobe production manager Sydney to Uluru and back – almost

at the Australian Ballet Centre 6,000 kilometres – with everything
in Melbourne. For this issue required for the cover shoot. “It took me
Williams had the chance to see three-and-a-half days in each direction.”
the designs realised in a How did he pass the time? “Music,
completely different way, music and more music.” Brogan was on
assisting on our shoot set each day and says of Uluru: “It’s truly
“Fairytale find”, starting inspiring. I’ll definitely be back there
on page 296. for a holiday, albeit by air next time.”
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vogue180º
Akira
The designer with the lightest touch RETURNS to Vogue 180°
a little wiser yet still with that innate unwavering vision.
WORDS: ZARA WONG STYLIST: PHILIPPA MORONEY
PHOTOGRAPH: HUGH STEWART
Industry veteran
Akira Isogawa, in
his Sydney studio.
o possess and wear an Akira Isogawa piece is the vision, one that touches on the current times without being swept up
T beginning of a true romance. Tere’s a sense of knowing

that you’re in an exclusive club: you’ve become part of his
world and mastered his aesthetic language of traditional
Japanese fabrics and techniques that he twists and turns for a
modern space and a modern woman. His loyal fans beat a well-
in them. Tere were the bright red kicks in his fashion week collection
and retrospective – nodding to the red socks of his frst show – worn
with his mille-feuille gowns and Eastern-inspired foral prints.
In his frst Vogue 180° portrait, taken in 1998, Isogawa was
photographed on the beach, with models in traditional Japanese
worn path to his boutique in Woollahra and his return to fashion costume and surf boards, merging his Australian home with his
week in Sydney this year (the only designer from Australian heritage and Kyoto birthplace. Today he is in his studio, older and
fashion week’s debut in 1996) was met with misty-eyed nostalgia. wiser, lit by the bright sunlight streaming through the skylights.
But within those wisps of things, his wrapped jackets and kimono- He sits with bolts of fabrics: embroidered sheer silks, pleated
cut dresses, there’s a real guts that comes from having such a singular shibori and the fnest of prints, in amongst it all. He is home. ■
VOGUE.COM.AU – 83
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vogueVIEW EDITOR: ZARA WONG
Spirit of
DRIES VAN NOTEN A/W ’15/’16
individuality
The fashion wheel keeps
spinning with the SHOCK
INDIGITAL
of the new – which WOMAN

are you this season?
VOGUE.COM.AU – 89
vogueVIEW
he thing about the new is that we J.W. Anderson defed expectations and did
T often don’t realise we’re in need

of it until it’s already zoomed
straight past us. Te new is
surprising and unexpected; it takes time for
the eye to grow used to it. We’re uncertain,
it his way with a heavily 80s-infuenced
collection of party girls in striped velvet,
Mugler shoulders and chain skirts. Some
loved it, some hated it, but it defnitely got
you talking – and at least you felt something.
and it challenges what we know (or think, Te story continued on in Paris. John
and believe to know). But give it time and Galliano’s frst ready-to-wear show for
then everything around it suddenly makes Maison Margiela ransacked lace and
that much more sense. velvet, with the models taking the guises
Te tipping point happened in Milan. At of eccentrics in overblown headwear and
Gucci’s show Alessandro Michele sent curious gaits. And sometimes you need to
wan models down the runway bedecked in look back to go forward and forge your
FASHION EDITOR: MONIQUE SANTOS PHOTOGRAPHS: GUY BAILEY INDIGITAL

a vintage treasure-trove of goods, thrown own path, like at Balenciaga, where
together with liberal, romantic abandon. Alexander Wang turned to the house’s
Now that’s a way to press reset on the couture heritage to refne his own vision as
Italian house. Embroidered and its creative director, updating signature
crystallised birds over silk gowns and Cristóbal Balenciaga shapes with modern
colourful jewelled rings were triumphant details like tweeds “stapled” together at
in their eclectic quirkiness. the seams. Phoebe Philo broadened her
It was thoughtful, old-world decadence. oferings at Céline, the hint coming from
ALL PRICES APPROXIMATE DETAILS LAST PAGES
Shocking in its dramatic departure from the models, who were sent out with
what we all knew to be Gucci, it unifed individual make-up looks; an orange-red
the message of the season: a return to the lipstick on one, a pale nude on another, in
emotion of fashion and the celebration trailing pompom scarves and deconstructed
of individuality. Suddenly it throws silk dresses. “Dressed-up-ness,” described
everything else in relief: Christopher Philo backstage. “… I fnd glamour and
Bailey’s festive Burberry Prorsum had its sexuality awkward. When do they feel
stalwart trenches, capes and shift dresses authentic? What’s real, what’s not?” It’s
in a myriad of diferent textures and always been so hard to make something
Backstage
colours – pick and mix with embroidery, so wrong so right. We’re looking to genuine
at Gucci. mirrored discs and suede fringing. feeling – so dress your own way. ZW
vogueVIEW
Topshop
dress, $450.
Miu Miu
skirt,
$1,330.
Gregory
shirt, $290.
J.W.
Anderson
skirt, $1,380.
Bally bag,
$2,895. Just Cavalli
shoes, $950.
The student
Collegiate PREP meets bowerbird
behaviour with vintage finds.
Fashion has made a habit of reaching into the
past and rejigging it in its entirety – a frame
of reference recreated in facsimile is always
easy to hook a collection on. Miuccia Prada
took this to the hilt with her dress-up box Tommy Hilfger
Fendi
beanie, P.O.A.
dress, of retro treasures from decades past: it was
$4,335.
as if her models, in the role of vintage-hunting
young students, styled these pieces; they
wore them with carelessness and cool,
making the fnal efect entirely indiscernible
from its provenance.
Miu Miu
shoes,
$1,060.
Bally jacket, Preen by Thornton

$2,295. Bregazzi jumper,
$940, from www.
matchesfashion.com.
Bally travel
case, $4,795.
GUY BAILEY INDIGITAL
MIU MIU A/W ’15/’16
Miu Miu coat, $5,020.
vogueVIEW
VICTORIANA
SEEK OUT DETAILS: LACE-UP
HEELS AND TRENCHES
IN LACE IN A STRICTLY
MONOCHROMATIC PALETTE.
T by
Alexander
Wang
jumpsuit,
$755.
Backstage at
Alexander Zimmermann
McQueen. shirt, $1,550.
Jane Fonda
in Barbarella
(1968).
Givenchy
ALEXANDER McQUEEN A/W ’15/’16
brooch,
$1,650.
Band of
Outsiders
dress, $360,
from www.
LANVIN A/W ’15/’16
Net-A-
Porter.com.
Balenciaga
The
boots, $1,290. Burberry
Prorsum coat,
$4,330, from www.
matchesfashion.com.
villainess
EMILIO DE LA MORENA A/W ’15/’16
The femme fatale is

IRIS VAN HERPEN A/W ’15/’16
VALENTINO A/W ’15/’16
THROWN into the future.

Eclectic bohemia not your tastes? Prepare
yourself for the modern age with leather
armoury, laced around the torso in classic
Azzedine Alaïa-meets-Barbarella style,
like at Alexander McQueen – Sarah
Burton charged herself with presenting
something more wearable this season but
lost none of the strength of the McQueen
woman. Tere’s a sizeable group of women

who want to dress with grown-up
GUY BAILEY GETTY IMAGES INDIGITAL
sophistication – youthful insouciance

doesn’t always translate into a wearable
wardrobe. But this season they desire a
more personal expression in their style; a
crystal hatpin holding close a voluminous
tweed coat at Balenciaga, or slip dresses
Charlize Theron covered in paillettes at Hugo Boss, sewn
in Mad Max: so closely together that they mimic
Fury Road.
undulating metallic armour.
vogueVIEW
Alice McCall
pants, $320.
Miu Miu
necklace,
$1,780.

Miu Miu
shirt, $1,140.
MARC JACOBS A/W ’15/’16

Bottega Veneta
coat, $6,700.
Sportmax Miu Miu Fendi scarf,

skirt, bag, $2,760. $220.
$1,140.
Marni
top, $1,070.
The
quirky one
A delightful, joyous CACOPHONY
of prints, COLOUR and texture.

Mixed prints and textural play are fashion
idioms that have made their way around the
block a few times. But imagine taking what
LOUIS VUITTON A/W ’15/’16
we know and turning the volume up higher

BeautiFeel
and higher – yes, it is the time to wear your

shoes, $530.
multicoloured checked Marni blouse with
Alice McCall brocade trousers! It’s not all
op-shop fnds, though: Valentino gave its
delicate lace an old-world extravagance
with colourful patchwork technique.
WEDGWO
WED GWO
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VER
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IMP
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LICITY
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T SH
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WEDGWO
GW OD.
GWO O COM
OD COM.AU
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vogueVIEW
The
free spirit
Bohemian rhapsody makes
a RETURN with a knowing
elegance and worldliness.
Elegance is a tricky concept in fashion.
Make a design too sterile and austere and it
lacks emotion and a sense of individuality
and personality; too much frippery to tip
the balance the other way plays sheer havoc.
We can always rely upon Alber Elbaz for
a regular study of Parisian chic, but with
his own idiosyncratic twist – this season he
took a turn for the more exotic waters of
North African inspiration, with Berber
fringes trimming jackets, spliced leather
harnessed upon draped fabrics, and necks
adorned with rope-twisted chains.
“Fashion is a human story,” as he said
backstage of his show. “An industry that
makes things with its hands. High-tech
stole the glamour of fashion.”
It’s a beat that Dries Van Noten has
played upon for a while to critical plaudits;
here for his “grounded glamour”-themed
collection in which fringe trims fnished
of jacquard fabric blouses worn with

utilitarian khaki trousers, as if his woman
had walked out adventure-ready. Te
handiwork here, as at Lanvin, reminds us
the technical artistry required in fashion
can’t quite be captured accurately in an
Instagram snap. It’s the emotion of fashion
here – can’t you feel it?
Prada brooch,
HOPELESS ROMANTIC: Gucci
shorts,
Akira
skirt, $610, and
$790. $2,555. hairpin, $440.
BE A LADY – GENTLE
FLORALS BLOOM IN
PRINTS AND APPLIQUÉ.
Christian Dior Swarovski

FRANCESCO SCOGNAMIGLIO A/W ’15/’16
bag, $6,100. earrings,

$180.
Temperley
GIAMBATTISTA VALLI A/W ’15/’16
top, $1,235.
Chanel shoes,
$1,050, from the
Chanel boutiques.
Cartier
watch,
$45,7000.
vogueVIEW
A Marie
Hagerty
artwork.
MARIE HAGERTY
X GARY BIGENI
“The work has strength
CHRISTOPHER KANE A/W ’15/’16
without being too

overpowering, which
translates well on my
DOLCE & GABBANA A/W ’15/’16

designs,” says Gary Bigeni
CÉLINE A/W ’15/’16
of working with artist Gary Bigeni

Marie Hagerty on prints shirt, $370.
for his collection.
A Linda
The artist
Jackson
print.
The touch of the human

hand with FREE-DRAWN
illustrations lends a LIFE
FORCE to the season.
Domenico Dolce called upon his nieces
and nephews to contribute their drawings
to Dolce & Gabbana’s autumn/winter LINDA JACKSON X
Romance ROMANCE WAS BORN
’15/’16 prints (the theme of the collection Was Born
skirt, $310.
Luke Sales and Anna
was “Viva La Mamma”). Céline also
Plunkett from Romance
CHRISTIAN DIOR A/W ’15/’16
looked to childish innocence; silk prints Was Born found a kindred

of otters and beavers came from children’s spirit in artist and designer
DELPOZO A/W ’15/’16
illustrated books. At Christopher Kane, Linda Jackson, creating

life drawing sessions that took place in the a dreamtime vision of
Outback technicolour.
design studio resulted in embroidered lace
fgurines that wrapped around dresses A Donald
Robertson print.
like Matisse’s Fauvist dancers, limbs
linked and overlapped.
THE OUTSIDER: KHAKI OVERCOATS AND DENIM?

THANK YOU, JUDD NELSON AND KURT COBAIN.
Levi’s
jeans,
$130.
Coach DONALD
sweater, “DRAWBERTSON”
VETEMENTS A/W ’15/’16
Ray-Ban
P.O.A. sunglasses, ROBERTSON X
$200. NET-A-PORTER
The head of creative

Solid and Striped
development at Bobbi x Donald
Brown has put together Robertson
Michael Church’s a collection of T-shirts T-shirt, $109,
Kors coat, shoes, $485. with his painterly prints from www.
$4,860. Net-A-
for Net-A-Porter.
Porter.com.

SY D N E Y W E S T F I E L D SY D N E Y + 61 2 92 2 3 328 3
M E L BO U R N E C H A D S T O N E – T H E FA S H I O N C A P I TA L + 61 3 9 07 76 32 3
E S C A D A . CO M
vogueVIEW
A still from
Wes Anderson’s
Moonrise
Kingdom (2012).
Chanel
earphone
charm, $900,
from the Chanel
boutiques.
Peter Pilotto shorts,

$735, from www.
matchesfashion.com.
Fendi bag,
$3,360.
The
innocent
Sugar, sugar, how we love you.
Watch a Wes Anderson movie and at some
point you’ll reach that “a-ha” moment,
fashion-wise that is. Te colour palette of Sophie
muted safron and orange with theatrical Hulme
keyring,
centering is the context to autumn/winter $310.
’15/’16. Perhaps the fashion industry is
belatedly protesting his 2013 Oscars snub
for Moonrise Kingdom?
But sweetness demands a sharpness to cut
Backstage
through. At Prada, Miuccia Prada was
at Chloé. fascinated by what women are attracted to,
Prada top,
but amped up the saturation, made all the $2,490, with
more subversive when seen on babydoll brooches
from $440.
tops and exaggerated ribbon bows. And
Giambattista Valli has done a roaring trade
in mini-dresses, this season with unfurling
petal prints and rufes. Prada shoes,
GIAMBATTISTA VALLI A/W ’15/’16
BOTTEGA VENETA A/W ’15/’16
$1,070.
Kenzo
bag, $625.
Thomas Sabo
bangle, $499.
BLACK BEAUTY: THE BLACK DRESS MAKES A CAMEO IN SWATHES OF SHEER BLACK
CHIFFON AND VELVET, SLASHED UP TO THERE FOR A SUBVERSIVE SEXUALITY AND DARKNESS.
ALEXANDER WANG A/W ’15/’16

ALBERTA FERRETTI A/W ’15/’16

CHRISTOPHER KANE A/W ’15/’16
GIVENCHY A/W ’15/’16

EMILIO PUCCI A/W ’15/’16
J. MENDEL A/W ’15/’16

ALTUZARRA A/W ’15/’16

BALMAIN A/W ’15/’16
CHLOÉ A/W ’15/’16

ERDEM A/W ’15/’16

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vogueDNA
Born
in the
PHOTOGRAPH: EDWARD URRUTIA ALL PRICES APPROXIMATE DETAILS LAST PAGES
USA
You DON’T have to be an American
ART DIRECTION: DIJANA SAVOR STYLIST: PHILIPPA MORONEY
to feel American in Ralph Lauren.

WORDS: ALICE BIRRELL
Crazy but true: it took just one young man to distil the sartorial
signature of the USA, and it started with a sports shirt. Barely
two years after the Bronx-raised Ralph Lauren branded his
frst short-sleeved cotton T-shirt with a miniature polo horse,
women swooned over Robert Redford wearing Ralph Lauren
in Te Great Gatsby. Tey adopted men’s tailoring in droves,
and were also infuenced by the great Diane Keaton as Annie
Polo Ralph Lauren
Hall, who too wore Ralph Lauren. And therein lies the great coat, $849, and shirt,
man’s genius: taking the classics – a man’s blazer, denim, fannel $129. Ralph Lauren
Purple Label belt,
shirts, leather – and refning it all with the type of guts and gloss $429. Ralph Lauren
that takes them all the way uptown, and all over the world. Collection bag, $2,399.

vogueVIEW
It’s showtime
The SETS, the sidelines and the SPECTACLES
from the autumn/winter ’15/’16 shows.
WORDS: ZARA WONG
1 SET PIECES
Challenging themselves to out-do one another,
each house’s show has become increasingly epic.
PROENZA
SCHOULER
Proenza Schouler
took over the building
formerly occupied by
the Whitney (at the
time of the show the
museum was in the
process of moving
to a new site). The
cavernous space was
right in step with
Lazaro Hernandez and
Jack McCollough’s
more mature offering,
which showed they
had lost none of their
skill in re-jigging
what is familiar.
CHANEL
Each season Karl Lagerfeld transforms
the Grand Palais into another Chanel
scene-stealer: this time it was an open
invitation to Brasserie Gabrielle.
The mise en scène had models saunter
through a French bistro to take their
place alongside the bar for un café au
lait or at the booth tables. The details
extended to the clothes and accessories.
Rich in iconography, they were a study
in genteel French chi-chi spiced with a
playful irony, with paper doily-esque lace
collars, tile prints and teaspoons with
“pearl caviar” decorating leather clutches.
2 DECADE DRESSING
CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION A/W ’15/’16
GETTY IMAGES INDIGITAL ZARA WONG

BURBERRY PRORSUM A/W ’15/’16
DOLCE & GABBANA A/W ’15/’16
GIORGIO ARMANI A/W ’15/’16

MICHAEL KORS A/W ’15/’16
1920s 1930s 1940s 1950s 1960s

MARCHESA A/W ’15/’16

THOM BROWNE
Attendees at a Thom Browne
show never quite know what
to expect. Guests sat on
courtroom-style wooden
pews and watched two men
dressed in white pace around ERDEM
a model lying on a hospital Production designer Robin
bed. The scene later Brown transformed London’s
transformed into a funeral, Old Selfridges Hotel into the
with the fashion exclusively Parisian apartment of Erdem’s
black – all the better to fantasy muse. Brown was
demonstrate Browne’s responsible for the installation
design breadth, from fine The Collector, commissioned
tweeds, ruffle-trimmed by Helly Nahmad Gallery for
coats and a whimsical London’s Frieze Masters 2014
whale-shaped handbag. art fair. Stacked with vintage
issues of Vogue and hard-cased
trunks against chintzy floral
wallpapers, the artfully worn
apartment suited the faded
glamour of the dresses.
RODARTE
Held in its regular
Chelsea gallery
PRADA haunt, Rodarte’s
A set consisting of
interconnected, maze-like
rooms painted shades of
violently saccharine pastels
of pink, blue and green
prepared guests for Miuccia
Prada’s concoction of
collection was
inspired by birds,
but with the
distinctive f lair
of over-the-top
pastiched Bob
Mackie-style
3 SHOW-SIDE ACTION
IT REALLY IS A
SPECTATOR’S SHOW, AS
futurism combined with glitz, framed RAG & BONE REMINDED
a heightened child-like
sweetness, embodied by
by coloured
f luorescent lights
US WITH ITS PRE-SHOW
babydoll dresses adorned
with pageant-like
lining the space
amid dry grass
CORN NUTS AVAILABLE
ribboning and crystals. and twigs. AT THE ENTRANCE.
J.W. ANDERSON A/W ’15/’16
MOSCHINO A/W ’15/’16

BOTTEGA VENETA A/W ’15/’16
PRABAL GURUNG A/W ’15/’16

J.W. ANDERSON A/W ’15/’16
RAG & BONE A/W ’15/’16
1970s 1980s 1990s
VOGUE.COM.AU – 115
4
vogueVIEW
A FAMILY AFFAIR
DOLCE & GABBANA
Italian men’s devotion to their
mothers played out in Domenico
Dolce and Stefano Gabbana
celebrating Mother’s Day early in
Milan. Some of the prints in the
show were drawn by Dolce’s own
nieces and nephews – the crayon
drawings were also on the invitation.
Ashleigh Good returned to the
runway with her infant daughter
Emily, and Bianca Balti walked
it while heavily pregnant to songs Rihanna and Beyoncé
such as Mama by the Spice Girls. at the Kanye West x Kylie
Adidas Originals show. Jenner
KANYE WEST X
ADIDAS ORIGINALS
The rapper and creative called on his
sister-in-law Kylie Jenner to partake
in his New York fashion week
presentation. The audience was full
of members of his own fashion and
Kim Kardashian
music families: Kim Kardashian West with her
West with North, Kris and Kendall daughter North.
Jenner, Justin Bieber, Rihanna,
Alexander Wang, Beyoncé and Jay-Z.
5 FASHION MEETS
HOLLYWOOD
MAXMARA
Gigi Hadid was cast as the 21st-
VALENTINO
Disrupting the majesty of
Valentino’s show, Ben Stiller and
Owen Wilson stormed the runway
century answer to Marilyn Monroe in their Zoolander guises ahead of
in the off-duty mood of her last sitting; the announcement of the cult film’s
coats and soft knits pulled up over her sequel. It made headlines and
shoulders, curled hair still surf-wet. flooded social media feeds.
TOM FORD
{ }
Why ask celebrities to
come to you when you
can come to them?
TOM FORD A/W ’14/’15
Skipping the show

Gwyneth
circuit, Tom Ford

Tom Paltrow Elizabeth
headed straight to the
FASHIONTOMAX INDIGITAL
Ford Olsen
source in Los Angeles.
The fringed gowns and Naomi
corseted jackets found Campbell
favour among the court
of celebrities, who sat Amber
alongside a runway made Valletta
of white carpet and
covered in rose petals.

7
vogueVIEW
DESIGNER DEBUTS
Nadège
Vanhee-
Cybulski’s
first show for
Hermès was
a triumph of
cool elegance. The hottest ticket of the After working
Milan show was undoubtedly at A.P.C. and
Alessandro Michele’s Gucci Azzaro, Vanessa
debut. Read more about it in Seward launched
the story “Roman emperor”, her eponymous
from page 268 in this issue. label this season.
6 NEW GENERATION
KATE MOSS’S LITTLE
SISTER LOTTIE MOSS
SHOWED UP AT THE SONIA Whetting the appetite
with pre-fall ’15,
At Carven, Adrien Caillaudaud
and Alexis Martial assumed
Peter Copping showed his
first collection for Oscar de
la Renta to an intimate group
RYKIEL SHOW. BIG THINGS Lorenzo Serafini their places as the new of guests, revealing the
showed his first runway guardians of all things house’s signature full dresses
AHEAD FOR THIS ONE. show for Philosophy. cool-French-new-preppy. as well as modern separates.
8 FROST BITES
COACH A/W ’15/’16
NEW YORK EXPERIENCED ITS COLDEST

WINTER SINCE 1934, WITH DAYS DIPPING AS
LOW AS -16 DEGREES CELSIUS. WHILE SOME
SHOW-GOERS BRAVED THE COLD IN BARE LEGS
AND CHIFFON DRESSES (ALL FOR THE STREET-
STYLE PHOTOGRAPHERS), THE MORE PRACTICALLY
DION LEE A/W ’15/’16
MINDED ENVIED THE HEAVIER COATS ON

SHOW, LIKE THE SHEARLING AT COACH AND
INDIGITAL
THE PUFFER JACKETS AT DION LEE.

RS O
YEA F
royaldoulton.com.au 00 R
O
2
1300 852 022

YA
G
R AT I N
L D
O U LT O
royaldoultonau
LEB
RoyalDoultonAU
CE
• •
18 5
royaldoultonau 15 - 201
vogueVIEW
Free
rein
The master alchemist and FINE
jewellery director of HERMÈS
proves his mettle once again.
ART DIRECTION: MANDY ALEX STYLIST: PHILIPPA MORONEY
Te exterior of Pierre Hardy’s fnely jewelled pieces for

PHOTOGRAPH: EDWARD URRUTIA DETAILS LAST PAGES
Hermès hides a level of ingenuity so intricate one must

be an expert to decipher them. Tis is the man who once
made a $2 million handbag of solid gold and 11,000
gems, after all. In Hardy’s newest pieces for the house,
gold is coaxed into long twists of thick rope then
sprinkled with hundreds of perfectly placed diamonds.
Te expertly crafted horse motif carries the equestrian
house’s legacy well into the future. We can all marvel at
his artistry up close when the Nombre d’Or exhibition of
fne gold jewellery opens this month. We will be there,
because who doesn’t want Hermès wrangled, reined
and roped around their most delicate points. At a gallop.
Te Nombre d’Or exhibition runs from September 15 to 20 Hermès bangle and
at the Hermès Sydney boutique. ring, both P.O.A

vogueSPECIAL EDITOR: PHILIPPA MORONEY
Prada coat, $4,560,

shirt, $950, knit,
$670, and brooches
from left, $1,030,
$440, and $610.
The
fnishing
touch
Get up CLOSE and personal
with autumn/winter ’15/’16’s
most delectable offerings:
fantastical shoes and
handbags, and FANCIFUL
brooches. It’s all the little
things that count.
PHOTOGRAPH: EDWARD URRUTIA
WORDS: ZARA WONG
vogue SPECIAL
The skin
you’re in .
Exotic skins in VIVID shades
form a Bulgari Serpenti
handbag, whose body is made

from a single piece of galuchat
or crocodile hide. The hand-
applied ENAMEL on the
clasp is oven-baked for more
than four hours in a nod to
EDWARD URRUTIA
Bulgari’s heritage of priceless

jewelled handbags for royalty. From top:
Bulgari bags,
$5,400, and
$32,100.

vogue SPECIAL
CHANEL A/W ’15/’16

CHLOÉ A/W ’15/’16
BASKET CASE THE STRING
BAG, OR THE AVOSKA AS
THE RUSSIANS KNOW IT, GETS
A FASHION-APPROPRIATION-
REDUX FROM CÉLINE.
Céline bag,
$3,430.
FINE
VS
CHUNKY
The dominant jewellery vibe isn’t about weight; both delicate charms
and more outré chains can exist in tandem. We’re not being bound to
just one, but dressing for the day’s mood. The rule? Multiply and layer.
THE
DIGITAL AGE
Fendi hat, The iPod, the
$1,790.
iPad and now
the Apple
Watch … the
new era is here.
Apple Watch,
MAISON MARGIELA A/W ’15/’16
Hermès from $1,549.

hat, $3,135.
HEADCASE
GIORGIO ARMANI A/W ’15/’16
If you’re going to wear

a hat, why not go bigger
and better with vintage
ROCHAS A/W ’15/’16
felts at Maison Margiela

by John Galliano or
feathery furs at Fendi?
ARCHITECTURAL HEELS WEAR ART ON YOUR

FEET WITH SALVATORE FERRAGAMO’S FEATS
OF SCULPTURAL EXCELLENCE.
FERRAGAMO A/W ’15/’16
CRYSTAL METHOD
ALL SALVATORE
Add edge to shimmer and shine by seeking

raw crystal shapes by way of bugle beads
INDIGITAL
and sequins clustered on heels, or Giorgio

Armani’s Perspex bracelets.

Miranda Kerr and Royal Albert have created
a beautiful collection that invites you
to get together with friends and take time for yourself.
www.royalalbertchina.com.au
royalalbertaus RoyalAlbertAustralia
vogue SPECIAL
Pushing
buttons
The PULSATING
brights of Pablo
Coppola’s Bally
collection gussies up
the CLASSIC pump;
EDWARD URRUTIA
the wider heel is an

From top: Bally
ample blank canvas
shoes, $950, and $895. for experimentation.
WOLFORD BOUTIQUE · 15 Collins Street, Melbourne, Ph 61 3 9650 1277 · WOLFORD by APPOINTMENT, Monday - Friday, 96 Toorak Road · South Yarra, 3141, Ph 61 3 9820 0039 · www.wolfordmelbourne.com
vogue SPECIAL

Maison
Margiela
shoes,
$1,350.
Fendi collar,
$860.
Tod’s bag, MONSTERS INC

$5,185.
WHIMSICAL FURRY
FRIENDS FIND A NEW
HOME IN OUR WARDROBES.
THE THIN LINE

RODARTE A/W ’15/’16

Nonchalant, effortless: SIDE SADDLE
they’re the forever Altuzarra’s new
keywords we want to handbag line
achieve with a feature drew on
buckle or a delicate chain equestrian
slung carelessly around details.
the waist.
RODARTE A/W ’15/’16

COME INTO BLOOM: DRIES

NINA RICCI
A/W ’15/’16
VAN NOTEN CHANNELLED

AN OLD-WORLD DECADENT
BOHEMIA WITH MODELS’ THIGH HIGH
NECKS DECKED WITH VELVET Tied up and fussed up, the theme seen in the Victorian lace-up
thigh-high boots at Altuzarra and Christian Dior hints at
FLORALS AND FEATHERS. a subversive sexuality, a duality in force this season.
’15/ ’16 / ’16
I A/W / ’1
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’16
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/W 5/
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vogue SPECIAL
From top: Prada
bags, $10,030,
$10,030, and
$2,890.
Inside
outside
TWO is always
better than one,
especially in the
form of Prada’s
EDWARD URRUTIA
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shades of the
season.
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vogue SPECIAL
THE MADE-TO-
MEASURE HANDBAG
Jason Wu at Hugo Boss aims to
please even the most discerning
of his clients. A continuation of
the German house’s heritage
in tailored menswear, its new
personalised handbag, Boss
Bespoke Bag, similarly offers a
choice of textiles and colours
– inspired by the luxury of
bespoke suiting – and its
Backstage
fastening is taken from a
at Hugo Boss. cufflink’s turn-lock design.
Made in the Italian municipality
of Scandicci, it takes up to eight
Céline shoes, TWINKLE TOES THE EPITOME weeks to create. The final option?
$3,430.
OF CHIC IS A VINTAGE BROOCH Whether we’d like our initials
ingrained on the back in a subtle
CASUALLY THROWN ONTO A ice gold or shiny palladium. It’s
WOVEN HEEL. THANK YOU, PHOEBE. the luxury of choice.
MARY KATRANTZOU A/W ’15/’16

GIVENCHY A/W ’15/’16
Chanel Fine
Jewellery cuff,
$26,600, from
the Chanel
boutiques.
Chanel Fine
Jewellery ring,
$4,550, from the
Chanel boutiques.
HAVING A CRUSH
Engraved white or yellow
gold to mimic the classic
quilting, Coco Crush recalls
bold, rounded 80s jewellery. JOIN THE GIRL GANG
Whether we double up the Riccardo Tisci looked to FKA Twigs
cuffs for impact or opt for a MARY, MARY THE SCHOLASTIC
INDIGITAL
and what he calls “Victorian chola”

single ring, we want to wear
these with everything.
for the season. More really is more. SHOE GETS AN UPDATE.

Make memories last
with your personal
engraving
vogue SPECIAL
Bet your
boots
Christopher Bailey
takes us on a ride
through the HEADY
1970s with blanket-
stitched suede boots.

EDWARD URRUTIA
Burberry Prorsum
boots, $3,195.

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CHANEL A/W ’15/’16

IN THE CLEAR PACO RABANNE COLLECTIONS IN THE 60S Chanel clutch bag,
$13,940, from the
SUGGESTED WHAT WE’D WEAR IN THE FUTURE. OUR ANSWER? Chanel boutiques.
MOULDED HEELS IN TRANSPARENT PERSPEX, NATURALLY.

MAISON MARGIELA A/W ’15/’16


FENDI A/W ’15/’16
DINING IN
With the Chanel show set in
a cafe, the accessories riffed
on dining tropes with clutches
disguised as plates and menus.

oroton.com ROSE BYRNE
vogue SPECIAL
PHOTOGRAPH: BENJAMIN BOUCHET

STYLIST: CLAUDIA MATA ADDITIONAL WORDS: ALICE BIRRELL
Trunk
show
Louis Vuitton’s heritage
trunks are REIMAGINED
and resized in a
modern EVOLUTION.
othing says “luxury travel” like
N Louis Vuitton’s autumn/winter

cases, including (left, from top)
a remake of a 1930s classic,
a fashy carryall with a metallic surface,
and a monogrammed Epi leather number
in a subtle rose-gold shade (the “TG”
stands for Tamy Glauser, the model who
toted it down the runway). Te original jet-
setters turned frst to King Louis to solve
all their transit needs. Of course, a king
must evolve to keep his crown, and current
master Nicolas Ghesquière has reimagined
the heritage of the classic Boîte Flacons,
a beauty case built to carry precious little
things safely to their destinations. He’s
kept the diminutive size, galvanised edges
and pristine locks, and added a futurist’s
patina in hyper-hued leather, geometric
acrylic and a copper-fnish texture. All
this has the hallmarks of design genius:
synthesising the past with a turn toward
the future. Of course, with trunks this
truncated, you might want to pack light.
From top: Louis Vuitton Promenade
trunks, $17,800, $57,000 and $20,300,
with vintage trunks stacked on their sides.
KOOKA .COM.AU
VIP
You’re invited
Join us for a night of luxury and be among the first to view
Melbourne event
When: Monday, August 31
6.30pm for a 7pm start
Where: Cutler & Co.
the latest collection from jewellery brand Georg Jensen. 55–57 Gertrude Street, Fitzroy
Vogue Australia editor-in-chief Edwina

McCann, Vogue Living editor-in-chief
Guests will be treated to a preview of the
new Georg Jensen collection along with a
Sydney event
Neale Whitaker and WISH magazine unique dining experience and a performance When: Monday, September 7
editor David Meagher invite you to an by the Australian Chamber Orchestra. 6.30pm for a 7pm start
exclusive event to celebrate the launch of Cutler & Co. founder and chef Andrew Where: Est.
the latest collection from Danish jewellery McConnell will design a special menu for Level 1, Establishment
brand Georg Jensen. the Melbourne event, while Est. head chef 252 George Street, Sydney CBD
Two celebrations are set to take place; the Peter Doyle will create the menu for the
frst at Melbourne restaurant Cutler & Co. Sydney event. Guests will receive the ticket Bookings
on Monday, August 31, 2015, and the price back in Georg Jensen gift vouchers*
Cost: $220 per person, per event,
second at Sydney institution Est. on on the night. For full terms and conditions,
including food and beverages
Monday, September 7, 2015. visit www.moshtix.com.au.
To book: call 1300 438 849 or
visit www.moshtix.com.au
*The voucher is redeemable in store only and cannot be used online, can only be used on full-price jewellery, only
one voucher per transaction. Valid until November 7, 2015. Not to be used in conjunction with any other offer.
inVOGUE EDITOR: ALICE BIRRELL
Cha-Chung
The Brit MULTITASKER
with a style all of her own
makes her next move.
lexa Chung is in the middle of
A a wardrobe purge. On the

phone from New York, where
it’s late, she’s simultaneously
packing, reordering her closet and smoking
a cigarette. “My apartment has too many
clothes in it, as you can imagine, but really
to the point where it’s not funny.” It’s not
unusual that a conversation with British-
TYRONE LEBON
born-and-raised Chung will begin with

clothes. “I’m naturally very interested in
visuals, and it always comes back to
clothes, even if I’m in an art gallery or
▲
inVOGUE
Chung works
on designs in
the AG studios.
Clockwise from
top left: Alexa
Chung for AG pants,
$340; blouse, $440,
skirt, $560, and
playsuit, $560..
something, I’m like: ‘Tat would be an develop a style that is referenced reads criticism and toggles
amazing jumper!’” she says. “I can’t walk and replicated almost to the point between diplomacy and
past shops without thinking: ‘Why didn’t of obsession. For the former model, it frustration about the need to put a
they do something diferently?’” gathered momentum after she got a job name to what she does. Ultimately, she
Having just fnished designing her hosting the British TV show Popworld. puts it down to people’s need to understand
second collection with LA-based denim “I didn’t want to be this model idiot who things quickly. “Te last year and a half
label AG, it is an awareness brands are just landed this job. I wanted to be heard I was doing Fuse News, which was literally
more than eager to tap. After the frst and I think I did that through clothes.” a nine-to-fve television job, then trying to
collection all but sold out, including one Chung would use her modest wardrobe fy out to design collections and doing
A-line button-front mini, a budget from the station to photo shoots … or developing my eyeliner.
progenitor to the myriad
versions that are
“I WANTED mix high-end pieces with
chain store fnds in boyish
Ten, to read those comments was a bit
more annoying because I was like: ‘Are you
everywhere right now, TO BE HEARD ensembles that she said fucking kidding me? I’ve been up since all
Chung expanded on the AND I THINK she chose to diferentiate hours doing all those things, [only] one of
line of fnely honed basics.
Te 60s- and 70s-inspired
I DID THAT herself, a habit and look
that’s stuck. When
which you might do,’” she says of negative
comments posted on her Instagram before
denim pieces – infected THROUGH presented with an quickly adding: “I don’t want to complain
with her trademark witty
and distinctly English
CLOTHES” opportunity to interview
Karl Lagerfeld, he was so
about it because I defnitely have a fun
time. I can’t forget that that’s a luxury.”
sense of the low-key – return, and have impressed with her musical knowledge For someone who could be credited with
been complemented with ready-to-wear that he took her on as a Chanel ambassador introducing English style to non-Britons
separates. Loose blouses in a dainty daisy and her fate in fashion was sealed. the world over (hands up if you discovered
print, a suede jacket and lace-up shorts in Whether it’s presenting, designing or Barbour or Hunter via Chung), it’s the
ink sit beside lightweight knits and wide- writing – she penned a column for the grounded self-awareness (and possibly
legged pants in deep mulberry corduroy. Independent, writes for British Vogue and those feline eyes and never-ending legs) that
“Tis [collection] seems like a spin-of authored her own ironically titled book It continues to captivate. “I don’t think
series where everything is a bit wackier in 2013 – Chung is careful about what she fashion has to be that haughty, intellectual,
with some new personalities involved,” takes on, conscious of that hard-to-shake It- untouchable zone,” she says. For now, with
explains Chung, citing the seductresses of girl tag (the implication being she does little plans to launch her own line in the future,
Russ Meyer’s cult movie Faster, Pussycat! but exude cool). “I recently did the Great Chung is letting her inner circle keep the
Kill! Kill!, a “Joshua Tree girl gang” and British Bake Of, for this comic relief thing in balance. “My friends still fnd it funny.
Marianne Faithfull as starting points she England, and I didn’t realise I hadn’t been I will walk in the room and they go: ‘Here
melded with her own retro-tinged brand of on television for a long time. People were she is, style icon Alexa Chung’, because I’ll
TYRONE LEBON
youthfulness (and, thankfully, another like: ‘Oh, haha, you’re funny!’ and I’m like: be wearing my navy blue jumper and Ugg
rendition of that denim mini). ‘Did you think I’m just good at pouting?’” boots. I’ll be cooking dinner for them in my
It’s this idiosyncratic way of piecing When talking about herself Chung is house in London and they’ll be like: ‘Woah,
things together that has helped Chung unfinchingly wry. It’s clear she hears and next season’s looking cool, Chung!’” ■

inVOGUE
Marc for life

He climbed fast, fell hard but ASCENDED
again. MARC JACOBS remains one of the
world’s most influential designers.
WORDS: LYNN YAEGER
O
n February 19, 2015, the last night of New York
fashion week, Marc Jacobs took over the Park Avenue
Armory. Te walls were draped with handpainted
scarlet canvases, an homage to Diana Vreeland’s
famous living room, and the models wore breathtaking sequin
columns, embellished snakeskin coats and foor-sweeping pleated
skirts. Backstage after the show, the designer explained how

Vreeland’s ferce dedication to the universe of style inspired him.
GETTY IMAGES
“I felt like that’s what fashion is, that complete addiction,

obsession, that I’ve-got-to-have-it need until I basically wouldn’t
be caught dead in it,” he said, as the houselights came on and the
crowd streamed out of the circa-1880 building.
▲

W W W. E Q U I P M E N T F R . C O M
D I S T R I B U T E D BY W W W. E D WA R D S I M P O R T S . C O M
inVOGUE
Looks from
the autumn/
winter ’15/’16
collection.
“SHE WOULD
TELL PEOPLE:
‘MY GRANDSON
IS GOING TO
BE THE NEXT
Marc Jacobs
CALVIN KLEIN’”
Jacobs’s show took place within walking those fabulous wafe-weave undershirts
distance of the Upper West Side rendered in cashmere?
neighbourhood where he grew up. His Of course, like any fedgling designer,
early home life was troubled, but his he had his spectacular ups and downs. In
grandmother provided solid support. “My 1988, he and his business partner
grandmother was amazing. She completely Robert Dufy joined the women’s
believed in me and was very encouraging,” design unit of Perry Ellis as vice-
he recalled. “She would go to the president and president. The
supermarket or the butcher or wherever honeymoon didn’t last long: in
and tell people: ‘My grandson is going to 1992, Jacobs launched his
be the next Calvin Klein.’” notorious grunge collection, a
Te budding Calvin Klein attended the spectacular celebration based on
High School of Art and Design and the “grungy” street styles being
studied at the Parsons New School for made famous by Kurt Cobain and
Design; he was still a schoolboy when he his dirty friends – plaid shirts,
got his frst job in fashion, in the stockroom thrift-shop dresses and so on.
of Charivari, the legendary Manhattan Jacobs took these charity shop
avant-garde boutique. In 1986, he held his fnds, re-thought them, then
frst show under the Marc Jacobs name; remade them in the fnest fabrics.
one year later, he was the youngest designer Alas, this early foray into high-low,
to win the Council of Fashion Designers of before the term was invented, was
America’s Perry Ellis Award for New reviled by critics and lead swiftly to the
GETTY IMAGES INDIGITAL
Fashion Talent. designer’s dismissal from Perry Ellis.

“I love to take things that are everyday Oh, but he who laughs last laughs
and comforting and make them into the best; what appeared to be his undoing
most luxurious things in the world,” Jacobs has become a seminal moment in the
once said, and this mission was apparent history of fashion, a touchstone these many
from his earliest collections – remember years later. Just look at Gucci’s new
▲

LACQUERS FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: A Great Opera-tunity, It’s a Piazza Cake, Worth a Pretty Penne,
Tiramisu for Two, Amore at the Grand Canal, Gimme a Lido Kiss, Be There in a Prosecco,
I Cannoli Wear OPI, Gelato on My Mind, Purple Palazzo Pants, O Suzi Mio, My Gondola or Yours?
@opiaustralia #OPIVenice
Available exclusively at select salons,
&
inVOGUE
TIMELINE A montage designer, Alessandro Michele, if you want

to see high-low street style, funky babes in
fashion and experience it myself. I started
to wear kilts and lace dresses.”
of Marc Jacobs designs
spectacles and satiny sweatshirts! So Or maybe not so surprising! Jacobs has
from the 90s to now. profound are the waves still emanating from always celebrated extreme individuality;
this collection that the critic Cathy Horyn, eccentricity fascinates him. “I love expression
who panned the clothes at the time, was and anything awkward and imperfect,
moved earlier this year to write an apologia because that’s natural and that’s real.”
for her hasty harshness. Looking back Tis enthusiasm for “realness” and a
decades later at this turning point in his complete disregard for the age of his various
career, Jacobs said: “It was probably the idols has meant that in his print campaigns
most liberating thing. Because it was when Jacobs has featured everyone from Dakota
S/S A/W A/W S/S I honestly felt like I couldn’t stop designing Fanning (in a controversial spread for the
1995 2001 2001 2001
because I was genuinely so inspired by the perfume Oh, Lola!) to a high-fashion goth
music that was going on, the photography Miley Cyrus to an almost impossibly sultry
that was going on, new girls, this idea of Jessica Lange for a Marc Jacobs beauty
beauty in imperfection … I loved that it shot. Most recently, he has tapped his idol
represented a newness.” Cher as the latest face of the brand. In fact,
And when you take a moment to consider that superstar was his date for the last Met
it, he is completely right: the entire grunge ball, and she looked smashing in the
afair is emblematic of Jacob’s dazzling sequin-scaled, bubble-detailed gown
A/W A/W A/W S/S talents. When he arrived at Louis Vuitton customised for her from Jacobs’s autumn/
2005 2004 2003 2002 in 1997, then an old-line handbag and winter ’15/’16 collection.
luggage house with no “Other boys were out
fashion line, it was like an fascinated by other things,”
all-American firecracker “PEOPLE he told the New York Times,
exploding in the middle
of the Champs-Élysées.
DON’T KNOW right before leaving for the
Tink back on the wild WHAT THEY party of the year with his
rock star date. “I was like,
audacity it took to reinvent WANT. THEY no, I would really much
S/S
2006
A/W
2006
S/S
2007
S/S
2008
those classic monogram
handbags – splashing
JUST KNOW rather see what Cher’s
wearing this week.”
a Speedy with Stephen WHEN THEY Te spirit of that boy,
Sprouse grafti (why didn’t SEE IT” parked in front of the TV at
I buy this?! Why?), Grandma’s house, equally
spearheading the Murakami collaboration, entranced by glamour and realness, lives
with those enchanting smiley fowers; on in Jacobs, though he is now 52 years old.
introducing those Richard Price wacky art (You wouldn’t know it from a look at him
project purses. in that lace dress!)
S/S A/W S/S A/W
2010 2009 2009 2008 I am not one of those who gasp and cry at Jacobs left Vuitton in 2013; his business
fashion shows. (I have a short attention has gone through some changes lately, but
span; I’m cynical; I am jaded.) But in one thing remains constant: the Marc
March 2012, when a locomotive steamed Jacobs twice-yearly collection is always the
into the Carrée du Louvre and the models king of New York fashion week, the show
emerged, dressed as if for Ascot Opening that is the lodestar of the American season.
Day, I saw stars, and by that I don’t mean Whatever he does next, we know that he
just Catherine Deneuve and Sarah Jessica will bring his trademark originality and
Parker in the audience. “One thing that is vitality to the endeavour. As he puts it,
A/W A/W S/S A/W exciting about fashion is the surprise “Whether it’s an $11 fip-fop or a $2
2011 2012 2013 2013 element,” Jacobs once said, and wow, was he key ring or a $2,000 dress, they’re all
ever right. “People don’t know what they done with integrity. Tey’re all done with
want. Tey just know when they see it.” a design sense.”
And, of course, he doesn’t just talk the On the other hand, he also understands
talk. After he started working out and that sometimes you just have to throw
GETTY IMAGES INDIGITAL
became happier with his own physique he sense out the window. “I think there is
became a notoriously surprising dresser in something about luxury; it’s not something
his own right. “I think when I started to people need, but it’s what they want,” he
get in shape and spend time at the gym, once said, musing on the reasons we love
A/W S/S A/W S/S
2015 2015 2014 2014 I could be better to other people and be what we love, and buy what we buy.
better to myself and get back to loving “It really pulls at their heart.” ■

inVOGUE
Fashion buyer
Teneille Ferguson
wears a
Christopher
Kane jacket,
Market
and pants.
values
The work of a top fashion
buyer affords a certain
knowledge set. TENEILLE
FERGUSON shares her
wardrobe secrets.
s the senior buyer for
A international and Australian

designers at Myer, Teneille
Ferguson has fnessed the
process of creating a wardrobe, whittling
down the core lessons from the feld that
work on a personal scale. Here, she passes
on her wisdom.
INVESTMENT VERSUS TREND

Working as a buyer of men’s denim at
David Jones when she started taught
Ferguson how to take her own emotion out
of the equation. Moving to womenswear at
House of Fraser in London, she learnt
a smart buy is an investment. “Now I’m
getting older it’s about buying some hero
pieces and having fewer of them, rather
than having lots of disposable pieces,” she
says. “I still like to play with the trends but options together and then choosing what
I won’t invest in the trend piece.” she needs is a universal wardrobe lesson. BUYER’S CHOICE
DANIEL AVAKIAN
DRESSING THE PART RESEARCH AND (PERSONAL) The Australian designer,
Meetings with designers and fellow buyers DEVELOPMENT who’s worked under Giles
in Milan and Paris have taught Ferguson Ferguson turns her analytical side to her Deacon and Alexander
to dress for your role. “I think it’s always wardrobe, going online to make informed McQueen, is joining
important to wear heels when you’re in my purchases. “I always read all the size and ft Myer after his label’s
job. Tat defnitely helps portray the details and reviews online; I need to know
uncomplicated take
message that you’re trying to get across and everything about my future purchase.” She
on Australian style
how you want the business to be also shops alone. “Particularly if you’re on
caught Ferguson’s
STYLIST: PHILIPPA MORONEY HAIR: JULIE PROVIS
considered.” Aquazzura and Proenza a mission and have a tight timeframe …

Schouler booties and Prada pumps are It’s a very strategic approach.”
eye. “It’s important
MAKE-UP: KYLIE O’TOOLE PHOTOGRAPHS:
to foster young
DANIEL AVAKIAN S/S ’15
among Ferguson’s staples.

THE NEXT BIG THINGS designers and give
STICKING TO A VISION them something to
LUCAS DAWSON JUSTIN RIDLER
Selecting labels like Aje, A.L.C. and

Buying under pressure in Paris showrooms Aquazzura, which are all new to the Myer grow into,” says the
has helped her zero in on what she wants. line-up, requires an appetite for the next buyer. Avakian favours
“Tere are about 30 other people from all and an ability to see originality. “Tey need straightforward,
over the world in one room and there’s only to have their own handwriting and their embellishment-free
one sample and [sometimes] you aren’t own design principles,” says Ferguson of pieces in fabrics such
allowed to touch it, so you have to put how to spot the next big thing. “It needs as silk and leather.
the buy together visually.” Envisaging all to have a point of diference.” ■

CHADSTONE Shop G010, Chadstone Shopping Centre, Chadstone
THE GLEN Shop 2, 103 The Glen Shopping Centre, Glen Waverley
T: (03) 9654 1166 E: enquiries@antonjewellery.com
#ANTONJEWELLERY antonjewellery.com
inVOGUE
Celia Birtwell
and Ossie Clark,
photographed for
UK Vogue in 1970.
Below: a 1970s
sketch by Birtwell
of her iconic “candy
fower” print.
An Ossie Clark
printed evening
gown with
gathered bodice,
from 1973.
A stitch in time
When CLOTHES DESIGNER Ossie Clark met TEXTILE
PHOTOGRAPHS: ANNETTE GREEN BARRY LATEGAN DAVID MONTGOMERY
DESIGNER Celia Birtwell, fashion sparks flew. She explains
why she’s auctioned her collection of his pieces.
WORDS: SARAH HARRIS
uctioneer Kerry Taylor might now hang in zippered clear plastic covers decide to sell off her precious, memory-
A deal in vintage but she isn’t

backwards in coming forwards.
When textile designer Celia
on padded coathangers. “It was just so
incredible going through it all; finding
pieces that you’ve seen immortalised in
filled archive? “Well, I’m not getting
any younger,” says Birtwell, laughing.
“Besides,” she continues, “there’s nothing
SKETCHES: COURTESY OF CELIA BIRTWELL
Birtwell telephoned her with the idea of the pages of Vogue or even painted by worse than trying to squeeze yourself into
auctioning off her personal collection David Hockney.” something that you wore when you were
of pieces by fashion designer Ossie Clark, Birtwell, Clark and Hockney formed a in your 20s.” She pauses, before the
Taylor promptly whizzed over to Birtwell’s creative trio that blazed through London’s conversation takes on a more serious note:
London home and bundled the lot into the bohemian 60s and 70s scenes: her “I loved wearing his clothes, and I loved
back of her car right there and then. “There pioneering-spirited floral and Moroccan- the comments I received over the years
were boxes upon boxes, everything tile prints; Clark with his all-flattering when I wore them – it’s quite emotional
beautifully wrapped in tissue,” recalls fashion designs; and Hockney capturing for me.”
Taylor, looking over at the rails in her the mood on canvas. Their heyday was Birtwell met Clark in Manchester via
Bermondsey offices, where the clothes decades ago, so why did the print designer a mutual friend – he wore winklepickers,
▲

inVOGUE
she recalls – and a friendship was struck

up immediately. Her mother was a
seamstress, and Clark would often visit
her at home at weekends to learn technical
skills. “I think my mother felt quite sorry
for him – he came from a big family and
I think he liked coming home with me to
visit mine.” They met again in London
and remained friends for a long time
before a love affair blossomed – they
moved into a flat together in Notting Hill
and were married for five years. “I couldn’t
have worked with anyone better than
him,” she says. “The whole point of this
auction is to show how wonderful he was,
what a brilliant cutter he was, and so
unique in every sense of the word. No-one
can make clothes like he did.”
Many of the pieces haven’t seen the light
of day since 2003, when London’s Victoria
& Albert Museum staged a retrospective
exhibition of Ossie Clark and Celia
Birtwell’s work. Since then, Birtwell has
stored everything in her attic. “I feel that
it’s the right time to do
something like this. I did
think about giving it all to
“THEY’RE NOT
my grandchildren for them JUST GREAT
to wear to parties – they OSSIE CLARKS, A stippled
would look absolutely
wonderful – but the more
THEY ARE pointilliste dress
from 1975.
fragile pieces aren’t very CELIA’S

strong anymore.”
The pieces in her
OSSIE CLARKS, dress, which Birtwell
wore for the portrait of
collection were estimated AND SHE HAD herself and Ossie Clark
THE PICK OF
DAVID MONTGOMERY KERRY TAYLOR AUCTIONS

to sell for between $400 with their white cat,
and $12,500, but many
went for much higher.
THE CROP” painted by David
Hockney in 1970 and
They range from one of Clark’s earliest entitled Mr and Mrs Clark and Percy. “That
ANNETTE GREEN BARRY LATEGAN

pop-art-influenced mini-dresses (which he was the only one I was apprehensive about
designed just after graduating from the letting go,” admits Birtwell. “I really want
Royal College of Art in 1965) through to that piece to go to a museum.”
a spiky black leather biker-girl ensemble “It’s important to Celia and me that
made just before his death in 1996, as well these pieces are bought to be enjoyed,”
as the f luttering, romantic, bias-cut Taylor says, “whether the winning bidder is
creations of the late 60s and 70s decorated a museum or a private collector – there’s
in Birtwell’s colourful prints. “Many of nothing worse than allowing these clothes
these clothes are one-offs – by him, for her. to remain boxed in an attic for no-one
They’re not just great Ossie Clarks, they to admire.” While both private collectors
are Celia’s Ossie Clarks, and she had the and museums did bid at the auction, it was
pick of the crop,” says Taylor. Other pieces a museum that secured the black and red
speak volumes about the era, such as piece for more than $18,000.
a billowing white gown. “Celia told me As much as this is all steeped in history,
she wore it when she was pregnant. Then Birtwell is investing in her family’s
I wrote the condition report and typed: future, too: the money raised from the
two cigarette burns,” Taylor says with auction is to be divided between her six
a laugh. “How times have changed!” grandchildren, aged nine to 15. “They’re
But without doubt, by far the most all very different,” she smiles, “but I think Billowing
bohemia
recognisable piece is the designer’s iconic the older you get, the younger generation from 1969.
black and red moss-crêpe Heavenly Twins become more enchanting than ever.” ■

Marc Cain Agency | Phone +61.2.83 32 19 00 | www.marc - cain.com
inVOGUE
Small talk
Joan Smalls is a model at the TOP of her game.
She tells of how HARD she played to get there
and why it’s important to do it your way.
he story goes that Joan Smalls, and coy sweetness, then switch it up with
T
Joan Smalls in
a hitherto unknown 19-year-old the Studio.W a bodysuit and leather cuissardes to slink
campaign.
Puerto Rican model, left her Above: model smoothly down the Givenchy runway.
coastal hometown of Hatillo, style on and Despite all this, rejection is still a reality.
off the red
travelled to New York to begin her carpet. An advocate for diversity on the runway,
career and faced a disheartening cycle of she has faced discrimination for not having
go-sees and rejections. In reality, Smalls was “the right aesthetic” and is sometimes told
quickly signed to Elite Model Management she is too successful, too recognisable, for
and was working six to seven days a week some jobs. “I try to be fair with other
as a successful commercial model; she just people’s opinions but at the same time if
hadn’t crashed the high fashion scene yet, you become a success you should always be
although it was always part of her plan. celebrated and be a part of the industry
“I was always busy but felt I wanted more that made you, and it kind of hurts.”
out of my career,” says Smalls. “Moving to Luckily Smalls has a support network.
a big city, you come with a suitcase full of “I talk to my mother every day. We’re always
dreams and you want to make sure that you texting or FaceTiming,” she says. She also
make the most of it … if I fell fat on my Stone and Mariacarla Boscono, Kanye knows the power of autonomy and how
face, well at least I tried.” Determined to West and others from the fashion social media gives models unprecedented
cut her own path, Smalls booked a plane frmament, all friends and testament to self-determination. “It’s a platform because
ticket to Paris, paying her own fare, to Smalls’s rise as a model. Two years after you can speak for yourself. “It gives you
meet Givenchy creative director Riccardo the Givenchy exclusive she was named that fghting chance against a celebrity
Tisci. She came away with a career- by Forbes as one of the world’s highest-paid [for a job] because people know your name
defning about-turn and a friend for life. models, appeared in campaigns for Gucci, more and your status grows.”
“He was the one who gave me that fghting Fendi and Chanel, and secured a blue-chip She matches this with physical strength,
chance for people to see me in a diferent contract as the face of Esteé Lauder: the which she’s worked on since being diagnosed
light,” recalls Smalls of the moment Tisci frst Latina model to do so. Now she’s with scoliosis at 14. She works out every
booked her as an exclusive for the house’s fronting the campaign for David Jones’s day, doing Tai kickboxing or with her
spring/summer ’10 couture show. “We latest in-house line, Studio.W, yet another personal trainer. “I don’t like a damsel in
created a bond and it feels like our own indicator of her global reach. distress, and I don’t want to be one either,”
GETTY IMAGES
gang. He has met my parents!” As for the physique that attracts such she quips. Her biggest backer, though, will
Te gang Smalls speaks of (and lofty employers, she’s a chameleonic always be herself. “People who tend to
occasionally hashtags #GGang on marvel. She can walk the Victoria’s Secret doubt others; I love it. I love being able to
Instagram) includes fellow models Lara show with just the right amount of allure say: ‘See, I told you so! It can be done.’” ■

inVOGUE
New Given the choice, a lot of Australian
flame
women would choose to be Kyly Clarke.
She travels frequently, attends award
ceremonies and events, and has an
extensive wardrobe of clothes by Australian
Driven, FOCUSED designers, some of whom she is close to
(Alex Perry custom-made her dress for her
and poised for the wedding in 2012).
future, Kyly Clarke What many might not realise is that all
lights a new path. this comes with an intense amount of
WORDS: ALICE BIRRELL scrutiny, in part because she is married to
Australian cricket captain Michael Clarke.
If constant questions about it bother her,
she doesn’t let on. “Certain things come
with the territory,” she says. “I think it’s
funny when I get asked: ‘What’s it like
being Michael’s wife?’ I laugh, because
I think it’s the same as any other wife.”
After launching the blog Lyfestyled late
last year, she has now debuted a collection of
candles under the same name. Inspired by
her travels, the soy candles are all handmade
in Australia. “I wanted a business that
I could enjoy until I’m 70,” she says. Tat
meant studying fragrances with an
international perfumer and sourcing natural
ingredients from all over the world. Te 11
scents are rich and varied, including
fragrances like sambac jasmine, Egyptian
rose, amber resin and the berry-like
perfume of the poisonous belladonna plant.
As she steps increasingly into the spotlight,
she is emerging with a style that has evolved
and matured. “I’ve always prided myself on
what I wear and I’ve got that from my
mother. She’s always made sure that she
looked good,” she says. “As you go from
a girl to a woman your body changes so you
change with it, whether that means you’re
more conservative or more showy.” For
Clarke it means tailored pieces for day,
with Céline boots or simple black Jimmy
Choo pumps. For the red carpet she calls HAIR: GAVIN ANESBURY MAKE-UP: CHARLIE KIELTY DETAILS LAST PAGES
on local designers such as Alex Perry and
Steven Khalil for gowns, along with pieces
STYLIST: PHILIPPA MORONEY PHOTOGRAPH: HUGH STEWART
from Camilla and Marc and Dion Lee.

Clarke can expect media attention to
increase, particularly since the couple
announced recently they are expecting
their frst child. “Michael and I are thrilled
… we couldn’t be happier and are so
excited to embark on this new chapter in
our lives,” she says, although she will stick
to her policy of not reading all the press.
“I don’t bother too much because a lot of
Kyly Clarke, here with things are water of a duck’s back. Te only
her new range of
Lyfestyled candles, pressure you put on yourself is what you put
wears a Bally suit. on you.” For Clarke that means being
Lanvin shoes. Her
own jewellery.
future-focused. “I like to be driven; I like
to have a goal to wake up to.” ■

Celebrating our finest fashion events this
September / Vogue Fashion’s Night Out
Sydney 3 September / Fashion Saturday
12 September / Mercedes-Benz Fashion
Festival Sydney 24–26 September
sydneyisfashion.com.au
Sydney
Is
Fashion
vogueARTSEDITOR: SOPHIE TEDMANSON
Visual feast
Sydney, Beijing, Paris,
HONG KONG … let
VOGUE take you on a
world tour of contemporary
art; no passport required.
Anthony Lister’s
portrait of Kym
Ellery as a work
in progress.
vogue ARTS
The completed
artwork, Kym
Ellery with Fox.
Vogue: Anthony, why did you depict Kym

like this? Did you choose what she wore or
did you, and how important was that?
AL: “No, she chose her own wardrobe.
Te fox fur was defnitely an attractive
feature for me.”
KE: “Anthony didn’t bring it up prior to
the sitting, so I felt perhaps he wanted
me to come in whatever I felt. I wore
a cashmere knit, jeans and a red fur.”
Vogue: Anthony, how did this entry compare
to when you painted Chopper Read for the
Archibald in 2006?
AL: “Well, I didn’t fnd myself in the
passenger seat of a car smashing into parked
cars around Collingwood, that’s for sure.”
Vogue: Anthony, how does painting for the
Archibald compare to your other work?
AL: “It is a lot of pressure when I’m
painting for a specifc prize, especially one
of such high prestige.”
Vogue: Kym, what do you think of the
fnished product?
KE: “It’s awesome. I love the colours,
composition and the expression that he
captured on my face.”
THE PORTRAIT PRIZE Vogue: Anthony, can we ask what are you
Anatomy working on now?

AL: “A solo exhibition of paintings and
sculptures titled Low Life Street Cred for
New Image Art Gallery in LA.”
of an Archibald
Vogue: Kym, what is your favourite form of
art, apart from fashion?
KE: “I love many media in visual art.
Sculpture, mixed media, paint, and I also
love it when textiles are used for visual art,
Two of Australia’s MOST SUCCESSFUL creatives met to especially the work of Tracey Emin and
create an entry in this year’s ARCHIBALD PRIZE and Ben Barretto.”
in the process discovered a strong mutual admiration. Vogue: Kym, does art inspire your designs?
KE: “Always. I constantly reference art
WORDS: SOPHIE TEDMANSON
works as the starting point of inspiration
Anthony Lister had never met Kym Ellery Vogue: Did you know each other before? for my collections.”
until she sat for him for what would become When did you frst meet? Vogue: Describe the correlation between
his entry in this year’s Archibald Prize. But KE: “We met at the sitting. I knew of fashion and art. Do you think it’s important?
as the portrait Kym Ellery with Fox took Anthony’s work prior to being asked to sit, AL: “It is tricky for me to wrap my head
shape, the pair bonded over Australian so I was excited to fnally meet him.” around fashion in general. I think it is
history and mutual friends. Vogue: How many sittings did you do? mainly because the fundamental properties
Vogue: Anthony, why did you choose Kym AL: “Te sitting happened in one session. of what is considered fashionable change so
Ellery as your subject? It takes a couple of hours.” dramatically over short periods of time. It
Anthony Lister: “Because she is very KE: “Anthony was super-relaxed on the is unlike fne art in that regard, I feel.”
talented and beautiful.” day. I arrived at his studio and a dear friend KE: “Tat is a tough question. Fashion is
Vogue: Kym, why did you agree to be painted of mine also happened to be at his studio, functional; it’s where art, commerce and
by Anthony Lister for the portrait? so I was quickly at ease. Anthony asked me functionality fuse. I’m constantly inspired
Kym Ellery: “Te Archibald is Australia’s to just chill out on diferent chairs reading by art and without it I would feel
most distinguished portraiture prize. I was books as he sketched. We spoke about incomplete. Although this is not how I feel
extremely honoured when Anthony asked some dark Australian history; I really about life, I love this quote: ‘Art is our only
me to sit for him, as I have a deep respect enjoyed the process and his company. At salvation from the horror of existence.’” ■
for Australian art and the Archibald. I also the end of the sitting Anthony kindly gave Te 2015 Archibald Prize runs until
thought it would be interesting to see his me a book of his work and wrote me a note September 27 at the Art Gallery of New South
interpretation of me from the sitting.” in the front. I will treasure it forever.” Wales. Go to www.artgallery.nsw.gov.au.

vogue ARTS
THE ART FAIR
Modern
love
Whether you’re a SERIOUS
Fools Camp by
Oliver Watts.
COLLECTOR, occasional
buyer or gallery-hopper,
no LOVER of modern
Australasian ART would
want to miss this year’s
Sydney Contemporary.
hen Gwyneth Paltrow
W strolled through Hong

Kong Art Basel incognito
in March, she stopped at
one of the most popular booths at the fair:
the Australian gallery Sullivan+Strumpf.
Just Hanging Around
She took out her smartphone and, like the (2013) by Lucienne
hundreds of other art enthusiasts before her, Rickard.
snapped a couple of photos of the star
attraction – Sam Jinks’s hyper-real sculptures
– before moving on to peruse other works.
Te star is on trend; Australian
contemporary art is having a moment, as is
the contemporary art fair. Tis month,
Sydney Contemporary – the biennial Veiled Spectrum
A Curious Pride &
Australasian showcase that includes art for #3 by John
Other Wonders (2014)
sale from established and emerging artists, Young.
by Kate Bergin.
guest speakers and a pop-up restaurant
Cordelia Triumphant
IMAGES COURTESY OF THE ARTISTS AND GALLERIES
– returns to Carriageworks. Our Island Our

(2015) by Oliver Home (2015) by
For Ursula Sullivan of Sullivan+Strumpf, Watts. Chloe Vallance.
which will also be exhibiting at Sydney
Contemporary, the art fair is a fun way to
trade art for all diferent types of buyers.
“Tat’s why art fairs are so wonderful:
they can give you so much for a lot of
diferent tastes, but still be at that high
level of quality,” she says. “And it’s fun …
especially for Sydney, because we’ve not
really had an art fair like this before.”
After the success of 2013’s inaugural
Sydney Contemporary, which attracted
▲

© HERBELIN
French Craftsmanship
Swiss Precision
michelherbelin.com.au
Corynthe
vogue ARTS
Floret (2014) by Uneasy Peace
Natasha Bieniek. (2014) by
Karen Black.
THE INTERNATIONAL BASEL

Maison Ruinart, the French champagne
house, has had an association with
contemporary art since 1895, when it
commissioned a poster by then-unknown
artist Alphonse Mucha, who went on to
become a leader of the art nouveau style.
more than 28,000 visitors, the fair has because they like it; then the general public “The Ruinart family has had a long
grown this year to include 90 leading who just love coming to an art fair and may dynasty of art collectors ... the family has
asked artists to dedicate work to promote
galleries from around the Pacifc, including be tempted to buy an afordable print or [the champagne],” says international
Pearl Lam, one of Asia’s biggest and most works on paper. An average spend among communications director Jean-Christophe
infuential gallerists, for the frst time. art buyers at Sydney Contemporary ranges Laizeau. This year the Ruinart house has
“Pearl Lam Galleries encourages and from $20,000 to $50,000, says Etchells. championed such artists as Hubert Le
Gall of France, whose glass sculptures
supports cross-cultural dialogue, therefore “All three elements are keen, but the art
depicting the 12-month growth cycle of
it is a natural step for us to look further buyer tier is very strong in Sydney,” he says. a grapevine were shown at Ruinart’s stall
into the Asia-Pacifc region,” Lam says. “I think because there’s a bit of disposable at Hong Kong Art Basel in March.
“Australia is an important area for us and cash, and … a strong community that is Ruinart’s exhibition stall at this year’s
we are excited by the international level of into fashion, food and art. Tey are not Sydney Contemporary will show works by
Israeli artist Gideon Rubin, whose faceless
artists over there.” She adds: “It is an necessarily high-end collectors, but they oil-paint portraits (below) represent
interesting time to be working in Australia. like art and like the experience of buying members of the Ruinart family dating
Tere is no longer such a barrier between art in an art fair as opposed to a gallery.” from the 17th century to today.
collecting art from Asia and the West, and For frst-time art buyers, Etchells
Australia’s interaction recommends investing
with the international in local artists, naming
art scene has grown.” “AUSTRALIA’S McLean Edwards,
Tim Etchells, INTERACTION Andrew Taylor and
director of Art Fairs
Australia, who created WITH THE Tim Storrier among
his favourites.
Sydney Contemporary INTERNATIONAL “I would thoroughly
and has long been
involved with London
ART SCENE recommend people
look at that; it’s great
fashion week, says HAS GROWN” to understand a bit
Sydney Contemporary about the artist, who
IMAGES COURTESY OF THE ARTISTS AND GALLERIES
difers from the Melbourne Art Fair they are, where they trained, because
(which is held on alternate years in the Australia has … some really clever artists.”
Royal Exhibition Building) because the “I’ve always been very keen on Australian
industrial precinct of Carriageworks art,” he adds. “I’ve bought many pieces over
enables the fair to be “a bit like an arts the years and had it shipped all over the
campus for four days”. world. I love the colour, I love the variation.
Etchells describes the core audience of “I think it’s tough on a global scene
CHAMPAGNE RUINART
a typical art fair as like a pyramid: serious because there’s so much art now coming
collectors at the top end (represented in from all over the world, particularly from
Australia by around 700 “true collectors”); Asia, so it’s a competitive marketplace, but A Murano glass
work by Hubert
followed by art buyers: wealthy individuals I think Australian art ofers good value.” Le Gall, part of
who will buy art on an occasional basis, Sydney Contemporary is on September 10–13. a collaboration
with Ruinart.
either for decorative reasons or simply Go to www.sydneycontemporary.com.au.

Distrbu ted b y w w w .e d w a r d s impo r ts .c o m
w w w .jo ie .c o m
vogue ARTS
Beyond-the-Walls is a
travelling version of the
inaugural exhibition on
Frank Gehry’s Fondation
Louis Vuitton building.
THE LUXURY FONDATION Models appear to

foat in the air.
House
rules
A FASHION HOUSE honours
the architect of its art museum
with an exhibition in BEIJING.
He is the world-renowned architect behind
the extraordinary curvaceous Fondation
Louis Vuitton in Paris, so it seems only
ftting that Frank Gehry is the subject of
the frst international exhibition by the
luxury house’s art museum.
Te Fondation’s frst Beyond-the-Walls
art project opened in Beijing in June,
showcasing the monographic exhibition Beyond-the-
Walls travels
devoted to Gehry and his project for the to Tokyo
Fondation, an art museum and cultural after Beijing.
centre located in Paris’s Bois de Boulogne.
Te monographic exhibition in Beijing
retraces Gehry’s 13-year process for
creating the Fondation, from conception
sketches through to models and the
A model of
completed work of stunning glass “sails” Fondation Louis
that are now nicknamed the “iceberg”. Vuitton in Paris.
Gehry said of the Fondation that he was
inspired to design “a magnifcent vessel which houses an impressive collection of works of art; you have to feel something
symbolising the cultural calling of France”. some of the best artworks in the world. and there has to be a dialogue.”
Te exhibition was commissioned by Earlier this year the Fondation held its Previous installations at the Fondation
PHOTOGRAPHS: JEAN LARIVIÈRE FOR LOUIS VUITTON
LVMH chairman Bernard Arnault and frst historical exhibition, Keys to a Passion, have seen Pagé and her team more concerned
WORDS: ALICE CAVANAGH SOPHIE TEDMANSON
produced in collaboration with Gehry’s in Paris, which featured important works with modern art of the mid-late 20th
teams and Fondation curators. It was of modern art from the likes of Monet, century and today. Both Ellsworth Kelly
originally unveiled in Paris when the Mondrian, Mark Rothko and Matisse to and the Danish-Icelandic installation artist
Fondation was ofcially opened last Edvard Munch’s Te Scream – pieces that Olafur Eliasson have site-specifc displays.
October, just after it provided the paved the way for modernity. When asked why it was important that
spectacular backdrop for Louis Vuitton’s Suzanne Pagé, the artistic director of the Fondation continues to host
spring/summer ’15 show. the Fondation, said when curating an “happenings” on its program, including
Te Beyond-the-Walls exhibition will exhibition like Keys to a Passion “you must special events and forums, Pagé says: “Te
remain in Beijing until August 9 before it have an intellectual approach … and also artists themselves work across all kinds of
travels to Tokyo in October. a sensitive and emotional approach. [Now] media and there are no barriers between
It is the frst of the international with the internet we have access to many the diferent disciplines. Tere is the
showcases planned by the Fondation, images, but that has nothing to do with perfect breeding ground here.” ■

Spring Summer 2015
Carla Zampatti
Scanlan Theodore
Manning Cartell
sass & bide
Zimmermann
Camilla
Discover more in the

designer fashion mall, Level 2
bcm:indo0832
vogue ARTS
Return
to form
Having just released a new
album, Natalie Imbruglia
discusses her eternal LOVE
of music, the reason she
gave it up and why she has
RETURNED – this time
singing songs by men.
WORDS: NOELLE FAULKNER
didn’t realise how much I’d missed
I singing until I started again,” Natalie

Imbruglia admits from her home in
London. “I said to my producer: ‘I don’t
know what’s going to come out – I’ve just
been singing in the shower!’” she says,
laughing. “My voice was actually stronger
than ever.” It’s been six years since we’ve
heard new material from the Sydney-born
singer, and 18 years since Left of the Middle,
the album that shot her to fame and earned

her three Grammy nominations and two
Brit Awards. “Singing is so natural to me,
it’s home,” she says. “I can be on stage,
close my eyes, and be of in my own little
world. It feels good to be doing it again.”
Stylist’s own blazer and
With Mr Wilson, her Maltese terrier vintage Levi’s shorts.
CARLOTTA MOYE
rescue pup, by her side, Imbruglia is in the Equipment shirt, $210.

Kailis ring, $8,880,
throes of interviews and promotion for and necklace, worn
her new album – the essential circus that as anklet, $950.
▲

VOGUEPROMOTION
Vogue editor-in-chief and
In good
co-host Edwina McCann Actress Melanie Vallejo.
(third from left) with
Women of the Moment
honorees Bianca Spender,
Tanja Gacic, Catherine
company
Andrews, Kate Morris
and Megan Hess.
To celebrate the success stories of five

Australian women, Croser and Vogue
hosted the Women of the Moment event.
It was always going to be a sparkling night when world-class
wine brand Croser and Vogue Australia partnered to recognise
TV presenter
the achievements of a group of remarkable Australian women.
Rebecca Judd. Co-hosted by Vogue Australia editor-in-chief Edwina McCann
and Croser, the recent Women of the Moment dinner at Te
Atlantic restaurant in Melbourne’s Crown Entertainment
Complex toasted the honorees in a range of categories, including
Catherine Andrews (community), Tanja Gacic (style), Megan
Hess (art), Kate Morris (business) and Bianca Spender (fashion).
Te philosophy at Croser is that major milestones and smaller,
but still meaningful, moments should be celebrated in style.
Saying cheers to the honorees were the more than 40 infuential
women attending the dinner, as well as Croser’s Bill Webb and
Nicky Gameau and Vogue readers Ashleigh Chambers, Sadi
Myers and Katie Sullivan, who won tickets to the event. Te
menu, created by Te Atlantic’s executive chef Donovan Cooke,
featured a seafood cocktail entrée, a main of pan-roasted
hapuka, with kataif pastry, caramelised pear and caramel
ice-cream for dessert. Croser Adelaide Hills Non Vintage
Sparkling, Croser Piccadilly Valley Vintage Sparkling 2011
Violinist Sally
Cooper.
and Croser Adelaide Hills Non Vintage Rosé Sparkling were
served throughout a fun, fabulous evening.
VITO VAMPATELLA
Entertainer Natalie
Bassingthwaighte. Actress Kat Stewart.
vogue ARTS
artists often refer to as the bane of their fell into the ether of ex-popstardom, and
existence. Yet the 40-year-old Australian by that I’m referring to the kind that Good CONDUCT
singer is having a ball. “Tat’s the nice dominates the tabloids and various Bringing youth back to the
thing about taking a break, when you come celebrity-themed reality shows. On the symphony, Nicholas Carter is
back to it, it’s so much fun – I’m telling you, contrary, during her hiatus, Imbruglia not the new hand leading the way.
being lazy is the way forward!” she jokes. only pursued acting (she studied under Standing just above 183 centimetres,
For her new album, Male, Imbruglia prestigious LA-based coach Ivana Adelaide Symphony Orchestra’s new
presents 12 cover songs originally Chubbuck and made her stage debut last principal conductor Nicholas Carter’s
performed by men, produced in the most year) and spent time as a judge on Te X command over an orchestra is striking,
and when combined with the energy of
“Natalie Imbruglia” way possible: delicate, Factor, but also used her fame for goodwill: 70-plus players, it’s incredibly compelling.
dinner-party appropriate and finely as a passionate ambassador for women’s Just 29 years old, Melbourne-born Carter
stripped-back. Her versions are so diferent health, specifically supporting the is one the most exciting conductors to
that when I frst listened to the opening awareness of preventable childbearing emerge in almost three decades. His
track, Instant Crush by injuries like obstetric youthful passion and vibrancy is bringing
a new audience to an old-world art form,
Daft Punk – a track fstula, a cause to which and he is also the first local to be
I spun so often when she was introduced by appointed principal conductor of
the original was released her friend Richard an Australian company since 1987.
that my pet parrot Branson through his Currently split between Australia and
learned to mimic the Germany, where he is the kapellmeister of
charity, Virgin Unite.
the Deutsche Oper Berlin, Carter grew
melodies – I thought Imbruglia made her frst up singing in the National Boys Choir,
Imbruglia’s was an field trip in 2005, but a childhood desire to be “the man
original composition. and has campaigned at the front” inspired him to move into
Tat’s the goal when you Imbruglia’s latest worldwide ever since, conducting. He cut his teeth at the
Victorian Opera Company, Sydney
drop a covers album, is it album covers including speaking at Symphony and the Hamburg State
not? “We just tried to songs originally
sung by men.
the World Health Opera, where he studied under fellow
not do too much,” she Assembly. “Tere are expat Simone Young. “I don’t come from
tells me of her vocal- lots of other worthwhile a musical family, “ he says of his drive.
centric arrangement. “WALKING causes I’ve engaged with, “So, I was thirsty to learn all there was.
I saw the conductor as being someone
“We weren’t trying to be AWAY WAS but I think it’s good to who needed to be across everything.”
trendy or cool; I insisted pick one to focus on,”
on no electronic sounds. SCARY, BUT SO she says with great
“Everything” being an understanding
of the instruments, overview of the score,
I just wanted it to be WAS COMING passion. “I think the philosophy behind it and the ability
to build something moving out of the
classic, storytelling and
emotive.”
BACK. BUT IT it’s easier for people
to grasp. Sometimes
piece’s structure. “I wanted to be the
Performing songs by WAS ALSO celebrities spread

sculptor,” he adds.
As an introduction to his 2016 tenure,
the Cure, Tom Petty, Cat EXCITING” themselves too thin and Carter is giving Adelaide a taste of his
plans with a series of concerts, the next to
Stevens, Damien Rice it gets confusing.”
arrive in December where he will present
and others, the Coco Chanel approach of For Imbruglia fans, Male is
Mozart’s Bassoon Concerto and Sibelius’s
taking something of before you leave the quintessentially her: honesty dominates Symphony No 3. – Noelle Faulkner
house plays out well for Imbruglia on Male, the record and her vocals ooze a sense of Mozart at Elder 3, December 2. For more
as it allows each sentiment which, remember, delight. Yet with music bringing her so information, go to www.aso.com.au.
was frst expressed from a man’s perspective, much bliss, I wonder, why the hiatus?
to be presented in a wholly original form. “I wasn’t enjoying myself,” she admits.
A wise choice, yet not the original intention. “Walking away was scary, but so was
“I decided to do a covers album, because, coming back, but it was also exciting.
well, it had been a while,” Imbruglia I think it takes a lot of courage to step away
explains. “I wanted to do a collection by my from something that you’re identifed by,
favourite artists, but I realised that there but it’s more important to be happy.” Was
were a lot I didn’t want to touch.” She pauses. it worth it? “It’s shown me that I did the
“We started sifting through, but it wasn’t right thing. It’s just following my joy and
until I was confronted with singing trying to do what makes me happy. I don’t
something, say, a Bonnie Raitt song, when think we should feel like we’re stuck on
I was like: ‘I can’t touch this!’ It’s too weird.’ a hamster wheel, ever. To me, that’s not
I found the male artists easier – it’s a diferent living.” She exhales with a knowing
emotional tone … It was defnitely a shrug-laugh. “Tey say life starts out of
cathartic process. I haven’t expressed myself your comfort zone and I think that’s very
TONY LEWIS
in [this] medium in a long time. ” true. I’ve never been one to play it safe;
Considering her status in the UK, it’s I much prefer the road less travelled.” ■
refreshing to see that Imbruglia never truly Male (Sony) is out on September 11.

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vogue ARTS
On
DANCING OUTSIDE the box,
the Australian Ballet invites an
innovative young architect to bring
NEW LIFE to set and costume
design for an upcoming production.
WORDS: JANE ALBERT
elvin Ho still remembers frst the inspiration behind projects isn’t just an For the Australian Ballet production, Ho
K learning about the hallowed space

that is the Sydney Opera House.
Te architecture of Jørn Utzon’s
magnifcent building on Sydney Harbour
was one of the frst designs he studied at
aesthetic thing, it’s a feeling about shaping
spaces and the conceptual thinking behind
that,” Ho says.
Something struck a chord with
McAllister and when Australian Ballet’s
is working with a creative team that
includes electro-acoustic German music
duo 48nord and lighting designer
Benjamin Cisterne. He will also collaborate
with Harbour on creating simple, pared
university, and it continues to occupy a resident choreographer Tim Harbour was back costumes.
very special place for him. So when the describing the progressive, experimental His design statement is titled Birds in a
sought-after young architect-designer was concept behind his contemporary work for Tunderstorm, with connotations of objects
given the chance to not only design his this year’s 20:21 program, McAllister in a charged space that constantly shift
frst-ever stage set, but a set that would sit realised Ho was just what they needed. from languid and peaceful to aggressive
within that iconic space, he leapt on it. “Tim and I met last year … I knew he vortex. It’s a phrase he and Harbour are
To most people, Ho is the genial face wanted to do a piece that was really raw using to bring the production to life. Te
behind the Sydney-based design studio and stripped back. Tat was great because set itself is a deceptively simple semi-
Akin Creative – the in-demand designer I [had envisaged] something really striking circular pale white wall that will sometimes
who, with his team, brings a determinedly and powerful that when you close your appear fat, sometimes curved, depending
collaborative approach to projects for his eyes you’re still thinking about,” Ho says. on Cisterne’s lighting. Built from curved
clients who require fashion retail, hospitality Despite having never worked in the timber f laps and fabric, Harbour’s
and residential builds. Te client list is performing arts before, Ho’s process was requirements were that it works within the
impressive, including Dion Lee, A.P.C. and no diferent than it would be with any Sydney and Melbourne theatres in addition
Merivale’s Justin Hemmes. Now he can add client. Whether for the myriad fashion to being able to tour abroad.
the Australian Ballet to that list. spaces he and his 12-strong team have “It’s really about the set as an extension
Over dinner last year, Ho – whose partner created for the likes of Lover and Vanishing of the body,” Ho says. “It’s about taking
is Bassike communications manager Elephant, or the eclectic interiors he has the energy of the dancers and expanding
Jacqueline Perret – met Australian Ballet’s overseen for restaurants including Ms. G’s on that and resisting the temptation to do
director of marketing and audience and Papi Chulo, the practice is the same. something too graphic that’s potentially
development, Penny Rowland, who was “I treat Tim like my client; and his art is beautiful, but could detract from the
looking to broaden audiences by branching his performance and the dancers,” says Ho. purpose of the performance.
out into cross-art-form collaborations. “It’s about paying respect to that.” “I’m so grateful because I didn’t expect to
Intrigued by Ho’s ideas and projects, Ho was the name on everyone’s lips not be doing this. It’s one of the most refreshing
Rowland invited him down to Melbourne long after he graduated from the University projects I’ve worked on in a while. Tat
to chat to her team and artistic director of Sydney just over a decade ago, when ability to communicate and share knowledge,
SEAN FENNESSY
David McAllister in a bid to inspire the retail pioneer Belinda Seper took a punt on bridge the divide, is really exciting.” ■
company to think outside the box. him to help her realise the second iteration Te Australian Ballet’s 20:21 is performed in
“I talked about the design process, how of the Corner Shop in the Strand Arcade. Melbourne from August 27 to 31 and September
the creative process works and the fact that Others soon followed. 1 to 5, and in Sydney from November 5 to 21.

the elegance
of simplicity.
darya klishina
seiko.com.au
vogue ARTS
Sepia self
Among the scientists, poets, housemaids
and children depicted in Julia Margaret
Cameron’s striking portraits from the
1860s and 70s are two faces that had an
Works of photographer Julia Margaret
Cameron, clockwise from left: Hosanna
enormous impact on modern culture:
(1865); Annie, my frst success (1864); and Alice Liddell (the girl who inspired
Mrs Herbert Duckworth (1872). Lewis Carroll to write Alice’s Adventures
in Wonderland) and Julia Jackson, the
photographer’s niece and the mother of
Virginia Woolf. Tey are just two subjects
from the artistic elite of Victorian England
in the Victoria & Albert Museum’s Julia
Margaret Cameron exhibition of more
than 100 portraits now showing at the
Art Gallery of New South Wales. Also on
display are letters to the V&A from Mrs
Cameron, revealing a canny self-promoter
and businesswoman and a remarkable
photographer, who only picked up her frst
camera at 48, just 11 years before she died.
From August 14 to October 25. Go to
www.artgallery.nsw.gov.au.
What’s on ...
A photography PIONEER; a huge exhibition
of masterpieces from the HERMITAGE; plus
culture in Queensland and Western Australia.
Bird’s Concert
(circa 1630–1640)
by Frans Snyders.
Master BLAST
Rembrandt and Rubens
are among the 500 works THE STATE HERMITAGE MUSEUM, SAINT PETERSBURG. ACQUIRED FROM
THE COLLECTION OF SIR ROBERT WALPOLE, HOUGHTON HALL, 1779
in Masterpieces from the
Hermitage: The Legacy of
Catherine the Great now
on display at the National
Gallery of Victoria, visiting
PHOTOGRAPHS: © VICTORIA & ALBERT MUSEUM
from the magnificent

CINEMA COMES TO THE SEA Saint Petersburg museum,
founded by the Russian
Is there a better way to see film premieres than in the galleries and
The State
wineries of Western Australia, with a side of good food, fine wine and Hermitage
empress and arts patron.
beach vibes? CinéfestOZ 2015 comes to Busselton, Bunbury and the Museum, Saint Until November 8. Go to
Margaret River region, August 26–30. Go to www.cinefestoz.com. Petersburg. www.ngv.vic.gov.au.
ANDREY TEREBENIN
FINE FEST BRISBANE FESTIVAL HAS THE MUSIC OF JEFF AND TIM BUCKLEY; A CONGOLESE
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vogue ARTS
The
activist
A long CAREER blending
politics and diplomacy has
taken NATASHA STOTT
DESPOJA’s fight for female
equality to the world stage.
hen it comes to gender
W equality, you can never

underestimate
symbolism. Tat’s why so
many of us feel passionate about women in
positions of power,” says Natasha Stott
the
Despoja of attending the UN Commission

on the Status of Women in New York
this March, which celebrated the 20th
anniversary of the Beijing Declaration and
Platform for Action.
“It was a statement for women and girls,
and measuring how far we’ve progressed
has been a real milestone,” she says. “To
Natasha Stott
acknowledge gender equality to be part of Despoja wears a
government agenda and human rights 20 Willow dress, $595.
Trenery belt, $70.
years on was extraordinary.” Her own watch
It was a milestone both for women’s and bracelet.
rights and for Stott Despoja: it is 20 years
since she entered politics as the then Tis year Stott Despoja has travelled the talents and energies and skills of
youngest woman elected to our Parliament extensively around Asia, as well as Brazil women unless you eliminate this scourge.”
(she was 26). She went on to become leader for the Global Summit of Women; Burma, Stott Despoja shrugs of the idea of the
of the Australian Democrats and the to meet her “political hero” Aung San Suu work-life balance as “one of the most
party’s longest serving senator, before Kyi; and to Bolivia, where a library is being elusive things in the world”, yet she appears
retiring from politics in 2008, just shy of built for girls with Australian funding. to have found it despite the challenges of
PHOTOGRAPH: HUGH STEWART STYLIST: KATE DARVILL HAIR: BRAD MULLINS

her 40th birthday. Ten, in December “In Bolivia a young girl gave me her soft her job. “Sometimes it’s hard to reconcile
2013, Stott Despoja was appointed by toy,” she recalls. “She was ready to give it when I go overseas and then come home,” MAKE-UP: PETER BEARD ALL PRICES APPROXIMATE DETAILS LAST PAGES
Foreign Minister Julie Bishop as Australia’s up because she felt empowered by what we she says. “I go from the slums of India with
Ambassador for Women and Girls. were doing … that meant so much to me. extreme poverty, or dealing with horrifc
It was a unique appointment; the My daughter is looking after it now.” scenes of abuse or sexual assault … and
combination of gender equality and foreign She works closely with the UN Women then come home and see the Christmas
policy “dovetails so nicely” for Stott organisation, and sat in for Bishop at the tree surrounded by gifts for my children.
Despoja. “Since my frst entrée into policy Global Summit to End Sexual Violence in Sometimes the kids say: ‘Mummy, you’re
activism … I’ve always been passionate Confict in London last year, where she not going to give our toys away, are you?’”
about gender equality, the rights of women met Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt. Te key She accepted her role on the proviso that
and girls ... [and now] I’ve been given this areas she advocates for include: women’s she can still live in Adelaide, not Canberra,
amazing opportunity to fght for these economic empowerment, leadership and near her family, which includes her mother,
issues on a world stage, I feel very fortunate eliminating violence against women and journalist Shirley Stott Despoja. “Family is
to be able to work in a feld that had long girls. “I’m haunted by violence against the most beautiful, exciting thing in my
been a passion of mine,” she says during a women,” Stott Despoja says. “Unless we life,” she says. “If there were a challenge
rare break at the Adelaide home she shares eliminate violence, and not just being free between the two, I’d probably give up work
with her husband, former Liberal party of violence but the fear of it, then women tomorrow. But while I feel I can make a
advisor Ian Smith, and their children can’t contribute to their societies in the diference, while I can make an impact on
Cordelia, seven, and Conrad, 10. ways they could or should. You can’t utilise the world, the balance is right.” ■

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Explore what’s in store and
worth having this month.
diary
LOTUS POSITION
Say “namaste” to the Lotus collection of rings
and pendants from Ole Lynggaard Copenhagen.
Inspired by the soft shapes of the lotus flower, the
collection features a colourful range of cabochon
gemstones and diamonds set in leaves of sterling
silver or 18-karat white or yellow gold. Pieces
are designed to be worn alone for an effortlessly
elegant look or mixed and matched to make
a luxe bohemian statement. For stockists, call
1800 765 336 or visit www.olelynggaard.com.
LOVE
TAKE A STAND NOTES
Combining retro colours and curves with modern
technology, the 1950s-inspired range of small Inspired by Greek myths of love
appliances from Smeg offers an ideal blend of style and desire and created for passionate
and function. The 50s-style Smeg Stand Mixer is modern women, Versace Eros Pour
set to become a kitchen essential with its powerful Femme is a sensual new fragrance
800-watt motor, 10 speed settings and versatile range from artistic director Donatella
of attachments. Visit www.smeg50style.com.au. Versace. Model Lara Stone stars
in a sexy campaign for the scent,
which features bright, feminine
notes of jasmine, peony petals and
Sicilian lemon balanced by a heady
blend of sandalwood and musk.
For stockists, call (02) 9663 4277.
EASY AS ABC
SKINCARE MADE SIMPLE IS THE PHILOSOPHY BEHIND
ASAP’S PLATINUM COLLECTION. IT FEATURES SIX
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The new Love Bridge collection of bracelets from Thomas Sabo
is inspired by the romantic practice of attaching locks engraved
with messages of love to bridges, a phenomenon that has appeared
around the world but most famously in Paris. The collection features
a wide range of colours and styles, each with a sterling-silver bar
that bridges the two ends of the bracelet and provides a perfect
space for a personal engraving. Visit www.thomassabo.com.
vogueBEAUTY EDITOR: REMY RIPPON
Rise&
shine
Metallics get a
makeover; new-
season trends that
DARE to cross to
the dark side; and
why the FRESH
approach to skincare
is tailor-made.
PHOTOGRAPHS: GAVIN O’NEILL
HAIR: ELSA CANEDO MAKE-UP: SHANE PAISH
WORDS: REMY RIPPON MODEL: EVELINA S FROM IMG NY
GIRL ON TOP
While gunmetal grey and charcoal

usually lend themselves to a metallic
finish, consider a lighter approach for
a spring update. Focus all your attention
on the lids, rather than the lower lash
line, for a fresh take, and keep the look
modern by sidestepping the mascara.
All make-up by Dior, starting with Diorskin
Nude Air Serum foundation in Light Beige,
$79. Fix-It 2-in-1 Prime & Conceal, $58.
Diorskin Nude Cosmopolite illuminator,
$72. On eyes: 5 Couleurs Designer Christian Dior
eyeshadow palette in Navy Design, $103. earrings, $720
Diorshow Brow Styler in Universal Brown, for a pair, worn
$44. On lips: Dior Addict Lip Glow in Pink, $49. throughout.
vogueBEAUTY

THE NEW WING
It’s the perennially revived
look for good reason: the
cat’s eye not only elongates
the contour of the eye but
suits almost any eye shape.
Opt for shadow over liquid
or pencil liners for
foolproof application.
On eyes: 5 Couleurs Eyeshadow
palette in Exubérante, $103.
Diorshow Brow Styler in
Universal Brown, $44.
On lips: Dior Addict Lip
Glow in Coral, $49.
GAVIN O’NEILL
vogueBEAUTY
PRECIOUS METAL
At Christian Dior’s autumn/winter
’15/’16 show, Peter Philips sent models
down the runway with rich, metallic
eyeshadow in shades from navy to
aubergine. The point of difference?

Colour made its way right into the
inner corners of the lids for a dramatic
statement which, when pared with
a f lawless base highlighting all the
right areas (cheekbones, hairline
and cupid’s bow), feels youthful.
Diorskin Nude Cosmopolite illuminator,
$72. On eyes: Dior Addict Fluid Shadow
GAVIN O’NEILL
in Magnetic, $50. 5 Couleurs Designer
eyeshadow palette in Khaki Design, $103.
Diorshow Brow Styler in Universal Brown,
$44. On lips: Dior Addict Lip Glow in Pink, $49.

AUSTRALIA
vogueBEAUTY
Mood awakening
Pared back and UNDERSTATED took a back seat this season
to make way for a moodier, bolder and more DEFINITIVE
attitude. Leave your inhibitions at the door and step into the
NEW season, where more is most definitely more.
WORDS: REMY RIPPON
Backstage at Chanel.
GET GRAPHIC
At Rochas. At Christian Dior.
UP IN SMOKE
INDIGITAL EDWARD URRUTIA ALL PRICES APPROXIMATE DETAILS LAST PAGES

At Elie Saab. At Diane von Furstenberg.
ART DIRECTION: MANDY ALEX PHOTOGRAPHS: JAMES COCHRANE
WALK THE (WATER) LINE

At Rick Owens. At Roberto Cavalli.
If the eyes are the windows to the soul, then there was a whole lot of soul-searching going on backstage this season. At Rochas and
Christian Dior it was graphic but, thanks to the rounded edges, strong and feminine. Once again proving that a classic smoky eye will
always have a place on the runway, the backstage cornerstone returned at Elie Saab and (at the hand of make-up artist Pat McGrath)
Diane von Furstenberg. In typical style, Rick Owens took eye make-up to audacious (albeit modern) levels with the attention diverted
from lids to the lower line. Whatever the look, the message was loud and clear: be bold and be brave.

vogue ARTS
NIGHT
RIDER
No longer content with
a one-dimensional view,
the midnight shade is
now creamy, liquefied
and velvety. It’s time
for texture-play.
Clockwise from top: Christian Dior
5 Couleurs Designer Eyeshadow Palette
in Navy Design, $103; Make Up Forever
Aqua Cream Waterproof Cream Color
in Aqua Black, $36; Chanel Illusion
D’Ombre Velvet in Fleur de Pierre,
$48; Clinique Pretty Easy Liquid
Eyelining Pen, $39; Yves Saint Laurent
Couture Variation 10 Colour Eye Palette
in Tuxedo, $98; Chanel Les 4 Ombres
Multi-effect Quadra Eyeshadow in
Tissé Smoky, $98.
POTENT
DOSE
Statement lips are
a runway regular
(we’re looking at you,
Dolce & Gabbana),
but that’s not to say
they haven’t enjoyed
a renaissance this
season – the latest
rendition tougher
and edgier.
JAMES COCHRANE INDIGITAL EDWARD URRUTIA

Clockwise from top right:

Nars Lipstick in VIP Red, $40;
Estée Lauder Pure Color Envy
Matte Lipstick in Extrovert,
$50; L’Oréal Color Riche
Matte in 364 Place Vendôme,
$22; M.A.C Giambattista Valli
Lipstick in Eugenie, $40.

vogueBEAUTY
At Carolina Herrera. At Marc Jacobs.
At Roksanda. At Julien Macdonald.
BORDEAUX BOUND
Whether your call it a berry or a bordeaux, the shade was
a clear winner on runways this season. At Carolina Herrera
it bordered on aubergine, while at Roksanda and Julien
Macdonald it was more your classic red with berry
undertones. How to achieve the perfect tone? Backstage at
Marc Jacobs, François Nars created the “matte, velvety
eggplant colour” using Nars Velvet Matte Lip Pencil in
Train Bleu, which exceeded the brief of a strong, elegant
and sophisticated woman, proving bold lips are the eternal
Backstage at Marc Jacobs.
power-woman’s accessory.
At Dolce & Gabbana. At 3.1 Phillip Lim. At Giles. At Emanuel Ungaro.

RED RENEWED BLACK MAGIC
“You know you’ve got a good red when all those diferent No-one ever got ahead by following the pack and now is as
models looking amazing wearing it,” says Jane Richardson, good a time as ever to embrace an individual approach and
international lead make-up artist for Nars of the VIP Red look to the midnight shade while following a few simple rules.
lipstick that models donned at 3.1 Phillip Lim. Te brick tone Channel the looks seen at Emanuel Ungaro and Giles by
was a crowd pleaser, while at Dolce & Gabbana make-up artist opting for a matte fnish (a gloss runs the risk of looking
Pat McGrath gave each model one of 13 crimson shades. garish) applied with a brush. Couple with an open mind.
vogueBEAUTY
At Chanel. At Stella McCartney.
At Marc by
Marc Jacobs.
At Marni.
WET HAIR DON’T CARE
If you associate wet-look tresses – as seen at Alexander
Wang – with grunge and unkept, then think again. Is it
rebellious? Of course. Does it say downtown cool?
Absolutely, and according to Redken global creative
director Guido Palau, it also says expensive: “It’s cool,
urban and downtown, with that rich-looking nocturnal
feeling.” As with the wet-tressed look Palau created at
Marc by Marc Jacobs, central to the trend is texture.
“Using Redken Full Efect 04 All-Over Nourishing
Mousse,” he explains, “I was scrunching it a bit with my
fngers and then just letting it air-dry to get that light,
Backstage at
Alexander Wang.
messy texture with just enough defnition.” Skipping a
blow-dry never felt so right.
JAMES COCHRANE INDIGITAL EDWARD URRUTIA

At Isabel Marant.
At Fendi. At Giorgio Armani. At Vera Wang.
ALMOST PERFECT
Cool girl, rich girl or It girl? Whatever you want to call it, hairstylist Sam McKnight achieved it backstage at Isabel Marant. Whether
it’s a matter of a few strands strategically let loose around the face (as seen at Giorgio Armani) or raw ends peeking through an unkempt
bun (at Vera Wang), sea-salt spray is your go-to for achieving this look with ease. Team it with enough French It-girl attitude to make
Caroline de Maigret proud, and you’re good to go.

SALT &
SWEAT
A trend not only
creeping into our
wardrobes, sport-
luxe was also a
formidable force in
the hair game this
season, with wet-
effect strands and
post-gym ponytails
doing the rounds.
It’s game on.
Clockwise from top:

Charles Worthington Brush
Out Strong Hold Hairspray,
$16; David Mallett Australian
Salt Spray, $54; Ghd
Detangling Comb, $12;
Charles Worthington
Styling Wax, $16.

For a catalogue of the collection, contact
Customer Service: 02-9986 2200
www.beautifeel.com
vogueBEAUTY Backstage
at Stella
McCartney.
Primer
instinct
Ask any make-up artist
about their secret weapon and
chances are it’s to prime, prime,
prime. Not only does it create a
flawless base for anything that
goes on top, it also protects
what’s underneath. Simple.
Our pick of the bunch … For face: Stila
Aqua Glow Perfecting Primer, $38. For
skin: Dermalogica Skinperfect Primer, $67.
For everything: Dior Fix It 2-in-1 Prime
and Conceal, $58 (below). For lips and
eyes: Urban Decay Ultimate Ozone
Multipurpose Primer Pencil, $25. For
hair: Redken Extreme Length Primer, $30.
Beauty bites
The LATEST news, views and cosmetics confections.
WORDS: REMY RIPPON THE NEXT BEST THING
If invasive treatments are a little
too, well, invasive, up the ante with
your skincare regimen. Think of it
AFTERGLOW as spring-cleaning for your skin.
WE’RE CALLING THESE Alpha-H Liquid Laser Super Anti-Ageing
Balm, $129. A concentrated evening balm
THE “IN-BETWEEN” delivering a combination of essential oils
SUMMER PALETTES, (patchouli, lavender and mandarin) to skin
cells for intense hydration and a more
BECAUSE THEY’RE MAKING radiant complexion come morning.
THE TRANSITION FROM Dermalogica Daily Microfoliant,
$71. Tis powder exfoliant
LACKLUSTRE WINTER SKIN
reacts with water to create

TO A SUMMER GLOW a paste that sloughs of dead
THAT MUCH EASIER. skin cells.
APPLY LIBERALLY.
Clockwise from left:

Estée Lauder Bronze
Goddess Shimmering Nudes
EyeShadow Palette, $100;
Sisley Phyto-Touche Illusion
d’Eté bronzing gel-powder,
$120; Tom Ford Eye and
Cheek Compact, $134.
MASTERPIECE MAX MASCARA
Volumise, sculpt and define. Create demure drama with the
make-up artists’ favourite. The classic Masterpiece Max Mascara
now with a chic new look.
Create sublime sophistication with Masterpiece Max Mascara
#MAKEGLAMOURHAPPEN
vogueBEAUTY
AZZEDINE ALAÏA A/W ’15/’16

NEW KIDS ON THE BLOCK

RUNWAY REGULARS MIU MIU AND ALAÏA
ARE GETTING IN ON THE FRAGRANCE
GAME WITH THEIR VERY FIRST JUICES.
IT’S SAFE TO SAY WE’RE COVETING THESE Blue crush
Summer has come early, thanks to the latest
OLFACTIVE CONCOCTIONS AS MUCH AS crop of products taking a decidedly azure
WE DO THEIR SARTORIAL CREATIONS. approach. Take a dive in the deep blue.
Miu Miu EDP, 100ml for $170; Alaïa Paris EDP, 100ml for $168. Clockwise from top left: La Mer Crème de La Mer Blue Heart World Oceans Day
Limited Edition, $620; Chanel Cils Scintillants Sparkling Mascara Top Coat in Jazzy Blue,
$48; Revlon Nail Enamel in Sultry, $14; Sunday Riley Luna Sleeping Night Oil, $142;
Tom Ford Cream and Powder Eye Color in Midnight Sea, $87; Beneft They’re Real
Beyond Mascara in Beyond Blue, $40; O.P.I Nail Lacquer in My car has Navy-gation, $20.
SUPER BASE
The perfect foundation should be an extension of your
skincare regimen, not just a top coat that acts as a mask
you put on each morning. Bobbi Brown’s Intensive Skin
Serum Foundation SPF 25, $85, intends to “change your
skin – inside and out”, according to Brown, via its ultra-
fine smoothing formulation. And Lancôme Absolue
Sublime Rejuvenating Essence Foundation, $140, ticks
three boxes for us: citrus oil for regeneration; essential
fatty acids to improve the skin’s barrier function; and
a lightweight consistency for foolproof application.
SUNSET STRIP
EDWARD URRUTIA ALL PRICES APPROXIMATE DETAILS LAST PAGES
Don’t be put off by the GET YOUR NUTRIENTS

ART DIRECTION: DIJANA SAVOR PHOTOGRAPHS: INDIGITAL
intense neon hue: the new

tangerine-inspired blushes DETOXING ISN’T JUST
blend seamlessly and are ABOUT GUZZLING GREEN
buildable, so you control the JUICES: YOUR SKIN ALSO
pigment. The soft, creamy
texture of Urban Decay NEEDS “ME TIME”. TRY
Afterglow 8-Hour Powder ESTÉE LAUDER NUTRITIOUS
Blush in Bang, $35, ensures VITALITY8 RADIANT
the intensity lasts all day
– no retouching necessary. OVERNIGHT DETOX
CONCENTRATE, $110, AS
A NEW-SEASON BOOST.

vogueBEAUTY
Made to
measure
No longer passive recipients
of beauty brands’ one-
size-fits-all approach,
today’s ENLIGHTENED
consumers seek products
tailored just for them.
WORDS: GEORGIA COLLINS
lame the BB, the CC or even the
B DD creams, but somewhere along

the way the lure of “one product
that does it all” has become well
and truly overworked. Recognising that
this nonprescriptive methodology isn’t
necessarily what women want, more and
more brands are ofering alternative,
bespoke solutions and changing the way
they develop and market their products to
refect this.
Tis desire for customisation is hardly
surprising. Tanks in part to the internet
and the wealth of resource it provides, “IT’S THESE
today’s consumers are increasingly savvy CONSUMER
about what’s available to them, and,
according to a recent study by market
NEEDS THAT
research group Mintel, they’re self-taught ARE DRIVING
experts who are profcient in online and in-
store diagnostics. A recent US survey also
BRAND
showed that 72 per cent of anti-ageing INNOVATION”
skincare users were interested in products
designed specifcally for their life stage. infammatory disorder rosacea (look for For some professionals, made-to-
“I certainly see a more demanding breed products containing the anti-infammatory measure skincare has always been second
of consumer,” says Dr Sam Bunting, a plant extract feverfew, like Aveeno’s Ultra- nature. Australian facialist and
cosmetic dermatologist based in London. Calming range), Asian skin can look dull aromatherapist Annee de Mamiel, who
“Women understand that to get great skin without the help of lactic acid, a gentle is based the UK and whose brand motto is
you need to combine multiple active chemical exfoliator that also hydrates,” says “pure, potent, precise”, has been creating
ingredients and this needs a made-to- Dr Bunting. Try REN’s Resurfacing AHA bespoke products and facials for her clients
measure approach that takes into account Concentrate. “Black skin owes its tendency since she began, blending her own products
the numerous variables at play. It’s these not to wrinkle to higher amounts of after a life- and skin-changing course of
HAIR: RICHARD KAVANAGH MAKE-UP: RAE MORRIS
consumer needs that are driving brand protective melanin, but as a consequence is chemotherapy. Taking a “whole person”
innovation, which is great news for more prone to hyperpigmentation and approach based on ancient Chinese
discerning women who expect their melisma,” she adds, advising the night- medicinal remedies, the process gives each
skincare to deliver what it promises.” time application of Avène’s D-Pigment client a treatment tailored just for them. “It
Customisation isn’t a new concept, as Rich Dark Spot Lightener. So while just makes sense in that each client is an
PHOTOGRAPH: JENNI HARE
shopping for skincare based on skin type has consumers have been dabbling in this low- individual and the reasons why their skin is
long been common practice. Now more than level personalisation for years, those in the out of balance is also individual. Tat way
ever, though, brands are going one step know take it to a new level. One high- we can get to the root of the problem
further, starting with the idea of a wider, profle UK beauty editor has been instead of just looking at the symptoms,”
more diverse ofering that covers concerns customising her routine for years, creating says de Mamiel. As well as her personalised
based around ethnic predispositions. “While a daily, bespoke serum “wardrobe” to concoctions, de Mamiel is famed for her
▲
fair skin is predisposed to redness and the ensure she gets the best results for her skin. Seasonal Oils. Crafted originally for

vogueBEAUTY
those who couldn’t get their hands on her For those of us with hidden apothecary thing of genius: 24 diferent shades of pure
bespoke blends, these quarterly oils are tendencies, Spanish brand Sepai has an pigments that can be dropped into any
designed to treat skin at specifc points ideal solution. Its Tune It collection takes liquid (serum, oil, even hand cream),
throughout the year. “We change our a clever, individualised approach to allowing you to not only customise your
clothes each season, and our food, but we skincare, ofering a choice of base serum colour perfectly but also control the level
seem to reach for the same product because or cream which can then be “boosted” by of coverage, turning you from amateur
we are comfortable using it. Actually, we up to three additional extracts to suit your blender to master mixologist in an instant.
can get so much more,” she says. precise needs. Available for both face and And although it was withdrawn from
Beauty brands from mass to niche are body, the boosters cover of frming, lifting shelves in 2010, even the original custom
catching up though. Quick to catch on to an and radiance concerns, and there’s even blend brand Prescriptives is back after
emerging trend back in 2013, Chanel one specially designed to prolong a tan. a surge in demand for made-to-measure
launched Le Weekend, a trio of bespoke Bespoke skincare is also ofered by beauty (in an online guise at present and
serums (Le Jour, La Nuit and Le Weekend) Japanese brand Skin Inc, which has come only available to US customers).
catering to skin’s diferent needs depending up with Skin Identity Tool, a unique device Even the haircare industry has started to
on its biological rhythms. Aiming to which, thanks to its collaboration with two take note: British brand Concoctions
resynchronize your skin, the day serum (available in Australia at David Jones),
contains a jasmine complex to improve
cellular vitality, while the night serum
“WE CHANGE OUR with its cocktail-inspired approach to
mixing, puts you at the helm. Choose your
calms and repairs. Te weekend option CLOTHES EACH own fragranced base blend then pick two
speeds up cell renewal with a potent glycolic
acid complex, imbuing skin with a youthful
SEASON … BUT super shots (serums infused with active
ingredients and botanical extracts)
glow that mimics the kind of radiance you’d WE SEEM TO depending on your desired outcome.
only usually get after a lazy, low-key REACH FOR THE So with more brands catering to rightly
weekend wearing no make-up. It doesn’t
just stop at product either – even the way
SAME PRODUCT” demanding consumers, what’s the next big
thing in customised skincare? Stem cells,
brands are talking to women is changing. according to Beverly Hills–based
Estée Lauder’s latest launch, New industry experts, diagnoses specific dermatologist Dr Harold Lancer. One
Dimension, was specifcally created to conditions and provides targeted solutions such example of a company in the thick of
empower this new breed of confdent to treat them – akin to the level of expertise the stem cell game is Personal Cell
shoppers, with products so transformative you’d fnd in a dermatologist’s ofce. Te Sciences, whose U Autologous range
they change not just their skin but the way tool is available online: after answering a promises to create a personalised skincare
they see themselves, too. With a focus on series of in-depth questions about all system by collecting customers’ own stem
redressing the volume and structure of facial aspects of your skin from diet and lifestyle cells harvested from fat tissues via a mini-
contours, the vernacular around the launch to genetic predilections, the machine then liposuction procedure. Currently only
marks a real step-change; not talking about pulls together a bespoke serum, whittling available in the US, it promises a truly
wrinkles or sagging but more concerned it down to include a trio of actives (from a bespoke solution to skin ageing. As you’d
with making women feel better frst and possible 84 combinations) that will work expect with such a product the price tag is
foremost. “Tis is about a new dimension in on your individual concerns. Oh, and high (from $4,000), but clinical trials show
women’s lives where they can take control, you can choose the colour of the bottle you a substantial increase in everything from
make change for the better and feel would like, too. elastin levels in the dermis to a more
incredibly good about it. We coupled this It’s not just skincare brands adopting a refned texture and even skin tone. So, is
desire with the cutting-edge science of facial more tailored approach. If Cover FX’s made-to-measure changing the face of
transformation to create this new skincare innovative system catches on, bespoke beauty and the way we shop for it, forever?
collection,” says Estée Lauder global brand colour could also take over your make-up If the latest developments are anything to
president Jane Hertzmark Hudis. bag soon. Its Custom Cover Drops are a go by, the answer is a resounding, yes. ■
TAILOR-MADE
WRITE YOUR
OWN BEAUTY
PRESCRIPTION
WITH THIS CROP
OF PRODUCTS THAT
TAKE AN APPROACH
AS INDIVIDUAL AS Concoction Turn Up the
Volume Super Serum, $5, and Estée Lauder REN Avène D-Pigment Chanel Les Essentiels
YOU ARE. Nourish + Protect Base Blend
Shampoo in Bakhour, $20.
Shape + Fill Expert Resurfacing AHA
Serum, $140. Concentrate, $59.
Rich Dark Spot
Lightener, $62.
Le Jour, $124; La Nuit, $124; Le
Weekend Edition Douce, $148.

When fine food meets Style,
S.Pellegrino meets Vogue Italia.
Together to develop new talented chefs
and designers, and promote the future of
Italian Excellence.
Discover more on finedininglovers.com

vogueBEAUTY
Big
break
We’ve been playing a GAME of
Russian roulette with our hair.
Vogue discovers the NEWEST
hair innovations that are taking
the guesswork out of colouring.
WORDS: REMY RIPPON
here was a “who’s that girl?” Te struggle is real: dramatically altered styling or texture treatments such as
T moment this season at Louis

Vuitton when Australian model
Fernanda Ly took to the runway.
It wasn’t because she was unusually tall, or
had particularly astounding bone structure.
hair colour has long been a balancing act
for colourists (and their nervous clients):
too much too soon and the bonds making
up a hair shaft are damaged, or worse, hair
breaks of (read: fyaways). “I’m a cautious
permanent straightening. Te three-step
system is frst incorporated into the colour
mix before applying to strands (Olaplex
Bond Multiplier No. 1); the second step
(Olaplex Bond Perfector No. 2) is applied
In fact, it was her pastel pink, poker- hairdresser: I don’t push anything,” says after colour is rinsed; while follow-up care
straight hair that captivated the fashion Tracey Cunningham, Los Angeles-based is performed via an at-home treatment
(and beauty) pack, and informed the “I’m colourist to A-listers Charlize Teron, (Olaplex Hair Perfector No. 3). “What
sure of myself ” attitude that only comes Emma Stone and recent Vogue Australia Olaplex does when used in your bleach is
with sporting a mop of bubblegum locks. cover girl Riley Keough. “When you’re mitigate a percentage of that damage … it’s
For Ly, the decision to colour was simple: repairing bonds while bonds are being
“When everyone you see and interact with
has the exact same hair colour (and often
DRAMATICALLY broken, in order to lighten,” says Sara Slim,
vice-president of education at Olaplex. If
hairstyle) as you, a change is required.” ALTERED HAIR this were Monopoly, it would be the
Like it or not, that top knot you whipped
your hair into this morning or those
COLOUR HAS equivalent of the get-out-of-jail-free card.
It’s not only in-salon treatments that are
lowlights you’ve added say a lot about you. LONG BEEN A raising the bar: post-salon strengthening
Author Rose Weitz points out in her book, BALANCING ACT care is also fexing its muscle. Used for fve
Rapunzel’s Daughters: What Women’s Hair minutes once a week, Moroccanoil
Tells Us About Women’s Lives, that hair is a colourist it’s hard to incorporate new Restorative Hair Mask repairs the internal
“part of a broader language of appearance, things into your world, because you don’t structure of weakened hair caused by
which, whether or not we intend it, tells know how it’s going to react.” colouring and heat. And proving prevention
others about ourselves”. Just ask Kim Tankfully, the hair industry has seen a is better than cure, L’Oréal Professionnel
Kardashian West, who debuted platinum revolutionary change, with products that Mythic Oil Sérum contains evening
PATRICK DEMARCHELIER
locks at Paris fashion week and stole most aim to take the guesswork out of hair primrose oil, which has regenerating
of the media attention from designers. colouring. New to the market, Olaplex, benefts and is also designed to protect the
Instagramming a picture of root touch-ups which brand ambassador Cunningham scalp and prevent future breakage.
just one week after going platinum, calls “an insurance policy” for stylists, Whether it’s pre-treatment, during or
Kardashian West admitted: “It’s hard out works by reconnecting bonds in the hair post-treatment, it’s safe to say the hair
here for a platinum pimp!” that are broken due to bleaching, heat game is strong. ■

A TASTE OF LUXURY
Combining thick, creamy yoghurt with on-trend flavours like
salted caramel, Rachel’s Gourmet Greek Dessert Yoghurt
is set to become your new everyday indulgence.
JOIN EDITOR-IN-CHIEF EDWINA McCANN,
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Change is in the AIR.
The NEW SEASON is turning
softly towards VINTAGE,
with all the pretty dresses,
fur coats and tiny jewels. We’re
calling it an EPIC romance.
It’s a wardrobe evolution.
Nicole Kidman wears an
Anthony Vaccarello top,
$1,935. Michael Kors skirt,
$2,940. Vintage hat, $220,
from The Vintage Clothing
Shop. All prices approximate;
fashion details last pages.
Wonder Land
Iconic. Dazzling. Loved the world over. Two of AUSTRALIA’s most
recognised symbols, Nicole Kidman and Uluru come face to face in the
Red Centre, where the star opens her heart to VOGUE. By Sophie
Tedmanson. Styled by Christine Centenera. Photographed by Will Davidson.
N
icole Kidman is standing in a clearing at the Northern Territory in 2008. Australia holds signifcance for
the base of Uluru. Her ethereal white Kidman for many reasons, most importantly because it was after
dress, long blonde curls and pale porcelain she swam in a waterhole – believed by the local Indigenous
skin are in stark contrast to the ochre dirt community to hold sacred fertility properties – that after
underfoot and the magnificent red many years of trying she was able to fall pregnant with Sunday
monolith behind her. She crouches down Rose at the age of 41. Kidman says it was so powerful that she
and giggles: “Go!” Her two daughters, believes some of Australia’s Indigenous culture “really penetrated
Sunday Rose and Faith Margaret (or Sunny and Fif, as they prefer my family”.
to be known), with their matching tumbling curls and cream While she has told Sunny’s conception story many times, there
dresses, squeal with delight and as they run towards her. She is one story she has never revealed that came from the making of
swoops them up, one in each arm, and twirls them around in her that movie, which furthered her intrinsic link to the culture of the
warm motherly embrace. land: that of the little Aboriginal boy, an extra on the flm, whose
Te sun is setting on the world-famous rock, turning it iridescent, education she paid for at a boarding school in Perth. Te boy, who
a full moon is rising, and the light is incredible. It is magic hour at is now a teenager and who Kidman has asked not to be named here
Uluru, and a magical moment for Kidman. Mother. Movie star. to protect his privacy, grew up in the West Australian town of
Australian icon. Standing in the centre of our country’s heartland. Halls Creek, a community in the Kimberley. He met Kidman on
Embracing those closest to her heart. “I’m enraptured by it,” the set of Australia, which was flmed in the remote Kimberley
Kidman says of Australia’s iconic natural wonder, which she is town of Kununurra, and wrote her a letter. “It was a beautiful
seeing for the frst time. “I’ve always been drawn to the landscape, letter, and basically he asked me to support him and help him get
and I do think there’s something … the energy and the light … it’s an education,” she says. “He was young, really young, but he
just a very, very magical, special place. wanted an education. And when a child does
“My mother put it so eloquently: she said that, what do you do? I thought, wow this is
the rock has its own moods, and it does; at “I’VE ALWAYS an amazing opportunity to help, so I was able
diferent stages of the day and where you are
in relation to it, it takes on a whole diferent
BEEN DRAWN to fnancially support him all the way through
high school and he recently graduated.
meaning each time.” TO THE “It’s so great, because he wouldn’t have had
Kidman is in a diferent mood these days,
revelling in a new act in her extraordinary life.
LANDSCAPE, that opportunity, so I’m just so glad that he
reached out like that.”
She is enjoying taking risks with her career AND I THINK Te boy would occasionally stay with
choices, and savouring a sense of serenity in THERE’S Kidman and Urban in his holidays but when
her personal life, blissed out on motherhood
and being a wife “deeply, not just madly” in
SOMETHING … she became pregnant and didn’t return to
Australia as much, contact became less
love with her husband, Australian country THE ENERGY frequent, but she continued to pay for his
star Keith Urban. She has travelled to Uluru
from their home in Nashville – accompanied
AND THE LIGHT education until his graduation.
“It was more like I was able to be that person
by her daughters, and picking up her mother … IT’S JUST A from a distance, to be able to go: ‘Here is the
Janelle in Sydney along the way – especially VERY MAGICAL, fnancial ability to soar, to get what you need,’”
for this Vogue shoot. Tere is no movie to
promote, no red carpet to walk down; instead
SPECIAL PLACE” she says. “Because I wasn’t in a position to
ofer emotional support – and if I’m going
she wants to show her daughters the Outback to be there I’m going to really be there – that
and help them learn the culture of the Anangu, the traditional would be more like fostering or adopting him, and that’s not what
owners, and spend time with her family after an intense year of he was looking for. [Te boy’s family] was just looking for fnancial
personal tragedy and mixed professional success. support to get him through school. At frst I was more emotionally
Te Outback has drawn Kidman since she made her frst flm, involved, but then as he grew up and was a boy and took his own
the 1983 family drama Bush Christmas, when she was just 15. life by the horns … he has other people, and other cultures, to be
“I remember working with Aboriginal actors Stevie Dodd and his emotional support.”
Manalpuy, and they became very good friends of mine,” she When I remark how generous that is Kidman appears
recalls. “We all had to learn to ride horses together and that was embarrassed. “Te reason I don’t want to identify him and go on
hilarious. And Stevie would come to my school, North Sydney about it is because it is what it is,” she says humbly. “And I would
Girls High, and we’d walk up to the bus stop … he was really special. do it again.” Kidman obviously made an impact. When the boy
“I was put into a world where I was exposed at such an early age graduated from high school two years ago he made a speech to his
through making flms, and probably because my nature is curious fellow students where he said he could “see the light at the end of
and open I was able to make friends quickly. Tat’s when I frst the tunnel” and urged the boys to “learn all you can and train
learnt about walkabout – I didn’t learn that through sitting in hard”, according to a school report.
WILL DAVIDSON
a schoolroom. I learnt that through working with the Indigenous Kidman has long been privately involved in philanthropy, with
people [on flm].” a long association with the Sydney Children’s Hospital, Randwick,
Kidman’s connection to the land was strengthened over the and humanitarianism through her work with Unicef and as a UN
years, most recently when she flmed Baz Luhrmann’s Australia in
▲
Women goodwill ambassador since 2006. She is passionate

Dries Van Noten dress,
$910, and skirt, $1,280.
Vintage hat, $220, from
The Vintage Clothing Shop.
On right hand: Cartier ring,
$830. Tiffany & Co. ring,
$1,850. Stella McCartney
boots, $2,795.
Burberry Prorsum
coat, $9,495. Alexander
McQueen dress, $12,360,
and bra, $3,290. Vintage
hat, $220, from The
Vintage Clothing Shop.
Tiffany & Co. ring, $3,000.
Andrew McDonald
boots, $420.
WILL DAVIDSON
Burberry Prorsum
poncho, $4,395. Chloé
dress, $5,790. Vintage
hat, $220, from The
Bulgari bracelet, $1,550.
WILL DAVIDSON
Rosie Assoulin top,
$2,000. Rochas skirt,
$3,270. Vintage hat,
$220, from The Vintage
Clothing Shop. Cartier
ring, $2,970. Laftte
socks, $17. Andrew
McDonald boots, $420.
about advancing women’s and girls’ rights and empowerment and, amid myriad honours, including being made a Companion of the
while at Uluru, she was invited to meet with the women of the Order of Australia in 2006.
local Mutitjulu community, who wanted to perform a special Even standing in the middle of the Outback, Kidman cannot
women’s ceremony for her and showcase the work they do with the escape her fame. A Japanese tourist wanders past as we photograph
NPY Women’s Council (see the feature on the her on a track alongside Uluru, and he
following pages). suddenly does a double take as he realises who
Acting, she says, is a form of giving through “I’VE BEEN the tall blonde woman in the vintage hat is.
culture, but the act of philanthropy is simply
a gift of human nature. “I’ve been incredibly
BLESSED AND SO “Tat’s Nicole!” he exclaims to no-one in
particular. “From Australia!”
blessed and so I just love being able to share I JUST LOVE While she has lived in the US for the past
that, with my extended family, with the
people I can help … I want to be in a position
BEING ABLE TO two decades, Kidman remains continuously
supportive of the Australian flm industry,
to keep doing more and more,” she says. SHARE THAT, through her network of friends, sponsoring
“I was raised by a feminist, I was raised WITH MY awards, hosting galas in Hollywood and
by a mother – and a father – who were very
much about contributing to the world and to
EXTENDED recently returning to make two movies with
frst-time feature directors: Strangerland, an
culture. And I think as an actor, which FAMILY, WITH Outback-set thriller about a family dealing
tends to be a very narcissistic job because it’s
always all about me, me, me, that doesn’t feel
THE PEOPLE with the disappearance of their teenage
daughters, directed by Kim Farrant; and Lion,
good ultimately. So there is a desire to branch I CAN HELP … I directed by Garth Davis, the true story of
out: how do I change that dynamic? WANT TO KEEP Indian boy Saroo Brierley, who was lost on the
“Artistically there are ways in which you can
connect with people that are not about me,
DOING MORE” streets of Calcutta before being adopted by
a Tasmanian couple and who tracked down
me, me; by lifting people and helping people his birth mother 25 years later via Google
through storytelling. And when it works at its best it takes away Earth. In the next 12 months she has two other Australian-related
loneliness and it’s an extraordinary way to be part of the world projects on her schedule: the US TV adaptation of the Australian
and contribute. novel Big Little Lies (being produced by Australian Bruna
“But there are also the plights of so many diferent people … if Papandrea, a close friend, and Reese Witherspoon, who will also
you read anything these days, and I read a lot, you can almost be star alongside Kidman) and the second series of Top of the Lake, by
rendered inactive because there’s so much devastation and violence Jane Campion (another close friend, who directed Kidman in the
and inhumanity in the world, so the idea of just one foot in front 1996 period drama Te Portrait of a Lady).
of another, what little bit can I do each time, really helps.
T
“Tere are so many areas. I just read an article about the refugees he decision to star in Strangerland was in part
leaving diferent countries and having to leave children behind … made because it meant she could come back to
it’s just terrible, it guts you; I weep when I read it.” She sighs out Australia and spend time with her family
loud and then begins recounting several news stories. Kidman is while making the movie.
well read and bright – she loves her statistics (maths was her best “I’ve reached the point where I can do that,
subject at school, apparently) and recommends watching a TED I have to say to Keith: ‘How can we make this
talk given by neuroanatomist Jill Bolte Taylor, who remarkably work?’ And the great thing was I was able to
studied her own stroke while it was happening: “It’s a great thing go back and make Strangerland while my father was alive and
to watch and be recalibrated.” well, so by being in Australia with the kids and doing that I was
But there is a cheeky, provocative side to the actress that comes able to be close to my family,” she says. “And a lot of those
out the longer we chat. We discuss her recent trip to Tasmania, choices are made subconsciously. Tere was a pull for me to go
where she flmed the movie Lion, and she begins to wax lyrical back and do it.”
about how much she loves the Apple Isle: “Oh, the cheese, the Another reason was to support her cinematic sisters. “I’d met
oysters, and Mona … I’m starting to sound like a tour guide now!” Kim and I wanted to support a female director,” she says. “Because
she says, laughing. Without missing a beat she brings up Mona’s one of the things the industry is dealing with here now is there are
main attraction: the infamous vagina wall, and more hilariously just not enough female directors, and comparatively I think fve
what Sunny’s reaction was when she came across it. Kidman per cent of directors working in the industry are women. I mean,
describes herself as feminist, like her mum. “Mum would say it’s all well and good to talk about it but I have to start working
I’m far more airy fairy,” she says. “But, hey, I’m the artist in the with female directors more.”
family; I’m the wildcard!” It was the same momentum that helped make her sign up for her
A pioneering one, to say the least: Kidman is one of Australia’s next role, playing eminent British scientist Rosalind Franklin,
most successful, and famous, actors. She was one of the frst to who helped discover the structure of DNA, in the new West End
WILL DAVIDSON
pave a signifcant career in Hollywood (marrying and divorcing play Photograph 51. “Part of the reason I’m going to do the play is
America’s superstar Tom Cruise and adopting two children, it’s written by a female playwright [Anna Zeigler] and I read the
Connor and Isabella, along the way); and the frst Australian statistics on the plays written by women and there are very few,”
woman to win a best actress Oscar (for Te Hours, in 2002) Kidman says. “So I thought, well this is a new play written by
▲

Céline cape, $4,755,
and dress, $9,655.
Tiffany & Co.
necklace, $1,700.
Beauty note:
Swisse Rose Hip
Facial Moisturiser.
WILL DAVIDSON
Thakoon coat, $4,700. Gary
Bigeni dress, $440. Andrew
McDonald boots, $420. Faith (left)
wears a Zara jacket, $70. Vintage
dress, $165, from The Vintage
Clothing Shop. Country Road
shoes, $80, worn throughout.
Sunday wears a Zara dress,
$60. Country Road shoes,
$80, worn throughout.
Chanel dress, worn as
coat, $15,380, from the
Chanel boutiques.
Narciso Rodriguez dress,
$3,355. Tiffany & Co.
necklaces, $1,250 and
$70. Cartier bracelet,
$2,450. Stella McCartney
boots, $2,795.
a woman: okay, let’s jump in. And it feels like jumping of the clif family – it doesn’t just tumble into your lap; it’s from setting my
because very rarely do people do new plays on the West End.” sights on it and saying: ‘I so don’t want to be alone, I don’t want
Another reason she accepted the role was because the subject to walk this alone’, and I found that.
matter is close to her heart: “It’s what I call a science play, and “It is a love story, but it’s a real story. Because there are many,
science is intriguing to me, particularly now, and my father was many things that have happened within that, and there are times
a biochemist and Rosalind was a biochemist.” when life feels so brutally real and it’s just
Starring in a new play on the West End, 17 like: ‘Okay, but I’ve just got to get back up’,
years after she was described as “theatrical “I REALLY VALUE and that’s something I’m really interested in,
Viagra” for her role in Te Blue Room, is brave, MY TIME OFF, TO that survival.”
and Kidman admits to having a fear of
returning to the stage. “But I thought, at this
BE ABLE TO DO Te problem with fnding such a great
love, she says, is the fear of losing it. Te
stage in my life, if I’m not going to take these THESE THINGS Kidman family have been hit by two
risks, I’m not doing justice to the path I’ve
tried to carve,” she says. “And that’s what
LIKE GO TO tragedies in the past 12 months. Kidman’s
beloved father, respected clinical
I try to do now, because fear is the thing that ULURU TO psychologist Antony Kidman, died of a
stops everybody from taking risks, so I try to SHOOT WITH heart attack last September while visiting
acknowledge that I have the fear and go:
okay, so what’s the worst thing that can
VOGUE. AS I GET Nicole’s younger sister Antonia in Singapore.
Tragically, Antonia’s frst husband Angus
happen? Sometimes I think: ‘Why would OLDER AND I Hawley died suddenly in New York just
I do that to myself?’ And then I think: ‘Well, LOOK BACK, THE seven months later.
life is there to be grabbed, why not?’”
She will move the family to London for the MOST PRECIOUS “My mum and dad had 50 years and his
[Keith’s] parents have had 51 – they had
duration of the play, which runs from THING IS TIME” lifetimes together,” she says. “And when my
September to November, another move in the mother had my father taken from her …,”
gypsy life of the Kidman-Urbans on tour. “We set up home: Kidman goes quiet. “Te more you love the deeper the wound, so
whether we’re in a hotel or a rented house, we set up home you’re walking on this clif in a way that you can fall of … but to
and make it a home.” have the depth of love, that’s the meaning, ultimately; that’s life.”
Kidman says she has always been extremely close to her mother
K
idman and Urban met at the G’day USA and sister, but the women in her extended family have bonded
trade event in Los Angeles 10 years ago. It together even more this past year, with Nicole’s cousin planning to
was a serendipitous meeting: both take Janelle to London to see Photograph 51.
Australians had been living in the US for “We’re a very tight family, the aunts and grandmothers and
many years, and had been through enough nieces. We’re probably closer than other families who don’t live in
roller-coaster of life – he through addiction, the same country; we take holidays together.”
rehab and relentless touring; she through Kidman particularly wanted Janelle to join her, Sunny and Fif
professional highs and personal lows, celebrity marriage, in Uluru, and to experience the Indigenous women’s ceremony.
heartbreak and divorce, winning an Oscar along the way – that “It was special and I think we came back closer,” she says. “It was
when they fnally met they knew what they wanted and didn’t one of those times that you can spend and do something special
want to let it go. Tey married in Sydney in 2006 and recently like that, you tend to move in to each other. We live in diferent
celebrated their ninth wedding anniversary, after which they countries and obviously my mum is alone now and to have her be
posted a loved-up video on Facebook thanking their fans for the there and be part of it, I was so glad that she came.”
well wishes. Te day after Kidman returned from Uluru, Urban
A
hosted a breakfast TV show during which he said of their s for what the future holds, Kidman says
marriage: “We’re so grateful we found each other … What are she would “love to make a flm that has
the odds? Two of us leaving Australia and fnding each other mass appeal; that would be extraordinary”.
after that many years.” “But,” she adds, “I really value my time of,
When I say they appear madly in love, Kidman says: “I would to be able to do these things like go to
use the term, not madly in love, but deeply in love; it’s always Uluru to shoot with Vogue. As I get older
been deeply in love, ever since we frst met. I can’t even explain and I look back, the most precious thing is
it. It’s unbelievable that we found each other and at that stage in time. Sometimes time just for daydreaming and pottering around,
our lives were able to connect in that way and be that open to or taking an impromptu holiday or spontaneous trip; that for me
what the future was going to be. is what I’m also trying to leave time open for so that means saying
“But we really commit to each other and give to the no to things.
relationship; our priority is to be together. I don’t ever take it for “And I like doing that, because I like doing it for my family.
WILL DAVIDSON
granted. Tis is not luck: this is the place that we both have I really just love being with my family, and Keith is exactly the
that’s ours and nobody else has it; our children reap the same. One of our greatest joys is just being at the beach, swimming,
nourishment from it but we have to keep making it work. What barbecuing, reading, listening to music, playing guitar, singing
I have now – the life I have with Keith and with my whole around the piano … that for us is just heaven.” ■
Haider Ackermann top,
$410, skirt, $4,560, and belt,
$1,310. Faith (left) wears
a vintage coat, $165, and
WILL DAVIDSON
dress, $165, from The

Sunday wears a coat,
$165, from The Vintage
Clothing Shop.
Anthony Vaccarello top,
$1,935. Michael Kors
skirt, $2,940. Vintage
hat, $220, from The
Hair: Sophie Roberts
Make-up: Liz Kelsh
WILL DAVIDSON
Shot on location in
Uluru-Kata Tjuta
National Park
Special thanks to
Tourism Australia
Nicole Kidman
takes part in an
Inma ceremony
with Anangu
women at Uluru.
Sacred heart When NICOLE KIDMAN visited ULURU she

participated in a SACRED women’s ceremony.
Sophie Tedmanson joins the movie star and UN
Women goodwill ambassador as she learns from
the women in the HEART OF AUSTRALIA.
Photographed by Will Davidson.

FASHION DETAILS LAST PAGES
VOGUE.COM.AU –
237
Sunny Kidman
Urban is taught
a traditional
Indigenous dance
by local girls
at Uluru.
From diferent places, we’re all women. We all hold strong
Tjukurpa and we don’t want to see our culture lost. We
must keep teaching our young girls the laws of our
grandmothers because we want them to carry it into the
future. We must sort out our problems and we must speak
out strongly.” – the late Tjunmutja Myra Watson, a
founder of the Ngaanyatjarra Pitjantjatjara
Yankunytjatjara Women’s Council (NPYWC).
A
group of Aboriginal elders is
sitting around a campfre at
Uluru, explaining to Nicole
Kidman and her daughters the
signifcance of Inma, an Anangu
women’s ceremony where elders
teach young girls Tjukurpa, a
Pitjantjatjara word with several meanings but loosely
translates to culture and ancestry, passing the knowledge
of their culture through stories, song and dance.
“We have our ceremony like this passed on from our
grandmothers and their grandmothers and their
grandmothers and we still dance that now, so it is
really lovely to have Nicole be able to join us and for us
to show her a little bit of our ceremony,” says Rene
Kulitja, an Anangu elder, through an interpreter.
“It is a really good time for her to come because we’re
starting, in earnest, a lot of our training for the younger
children and the young women to make sure that they
will be strong and carry our culture on into the future.”
As the ceremony is explained, Kidman, sitting on a
blanket on the red dirt with her youngest daughter Fif
(Faith), four, in her lap, and seven-year-old Sunny
(Sunday) sitting next to her, nods, listening intently.
“Behind the words, behind the moves, behind the
paint, is a very big story …” says the interpreter.
Kulitja adds: “We have many ceremonies and
women’s stories attached to this country Uluru, as we
are custodians of Uluru. And this is one of the
ceremonies directly related to Uluru for women, so
that’s why we picked that one to teach [Nicole] a
special dance for women at Uluru.”
It is a dance, they say, that tells the ancestral story of
Tjukutjapi, an important women’s site at Uluru. Te
women slowly begin singing and clapping sticks
together, and two little Aboriginal girls jump up,
inviting Sunny to dance with them; the ceremony
begins. Te girls jump forward, pushing their sticks
from side to side, brushing their feet through the dirt.
Sunny mimics their moves and the three girls edge
forward, jump by jump, to the hypnotic verse until they
reach the campfre and the dance is fnished. Tey clap
and laugh, and then suddenly it is Kidman’s turn.
Someone places a hand-knitted headband over her
hair. She leaps up, and, accompanied by three women,
she begins the same dance, moving her feet through
the red dirt to the chant of the Indigenous ancestral
story, with Uluru forming a breathtaking backdrop.
WILL DAVIDSON
With her alabaster skin and towering height Kidman

stands out from the Anangu women, who are dancing
next to her barefoot and covered in traditional ochre
body paint; but together they move in unison.
▲
Kidman and her
daughters at
Uluru with
women from
Maruku Arts,
including some
members of
the NPYWC.
It is an extraordinary moment of cross-cultural female unity: Kidman described the ceremony as an “intoxicating” experience,
three generations of Kidman women – Nicole and her daughters one that she was honoured to be able to share with her daughters
are accompanied by her mother, Janelle, who is perched on a log to further their cultural education.
nearby, transfxed on the ceremony – meeting several “I’m really trying to give my girls a sense of purpose in the world,
generations of Anangu women from Mutitjulu, the community at because they are very privileged little girls, and so part of their job
the base of Uluru. is fnding how they can be philanthropic, even at this age, and how
Te Anangu women have come here to meet Kidman, who has they can be involved and have compassion and be colour blind and
been an UN Women goodwill ambassador since 2006 and is all of those things,” Kidman says.
passionate about advancing women’s and girls’ rights and “So that’s why it was so important for me to bring them to Uluru,
empowerment. Tey invited her to take part in an Inma, to share and for Sunny to get up and dance with those little girls … I mean,
WILL DAVIDSON
their living heritage, and to highlight the work they do in looking there was no fear, it was just pure joy; it was beautiful to watch.”
after each other through the NPY Women’s Council (known as After the ceremony had fnished, Kidman shared with the Anangu
the NPYWC), and Maruku Arts, a community group based out of women the story of how Sunny was conceived after she swam in an
Mutitjulu, which provides Indigenous arts and culture tours. Aboriginal waterhole in the Kimberley while she flmed the movie

Australia several years ago. “For 40 years I couldn’t get pregnant, and Kidman said she was particularly touched by the strength and
then I went swimming in the waterhole, and it was a very special tenacity of the Aboriginal women.
place to go … and then she came,” Kidman told the women as she “Teir strength, when you’re around them, is incredibly
patted Sunny’s head. “So that’s why I brought my babies with me … apparent,” she says.
I’m very grateful and feel very connected (to the land). Tat’s why It is a trait they are immensely proud of, says Kulitja, the group’s
it’s very beautiful for me and for us to be invited here and for her to spokeswoman: “It’s really important for us to be able to show the
dance with your children, we feel very connected, so thank you,” strength of our culture, this is our country that we are on and we
Te women nodded in acknowledgement, and laughed, are dancing for our country and that’s a really important thing.”
knowingly: Aboriginal women know about such things. Kulitja is one of the most prominent women in the area. Her
“It was interesting for me to see the way Sunday reacted and the parents were instrumental in forming Maruku Arts in 1984 “to
way in which she just so willingly and openly, which is not usual keep culture strong”. She is a director of Maruku Arts and an
for her when she has all those eyes on her,” Kidman says later. accomplished artist, whose most famous work, Yananyi Dreaming
“And that’s why I wanted to explain to them that some of their – based on traditional stories of Uluru – covered the fuselage of
culture really has penetrated my family to that degree.” a Qantas Boeing 737. She is also a director of the NPY Women’s
▲
WILL DAVIDSON
Sunny and Fif

Kidman Urban
with traditional
Indigenous
clapsticks.
Council, which was formed in 1980 with the objective
to support women and families sufering poverty,
sickness, destitution, distress, violence, misfortune or
helplessness from communities in a vast, tri-state area
of Central Australia. Te organisation’s membership is
made up of women from 25 communities and
homelands located across a 350,000 square kilometre
area of desert around the intersection where the borders
of Western Australia, South Australia and the Northern
Territory meet.
Members of the NPYWC, says its website, share
“language, historical, cultural and familial connections
and concerns for themselves and their families that take
precedence over state and territory borders”.
“Te women want what mothers all over the world
want for their families: for their children to retain their
distinct culture, heritage, and languages, to access
education, for families to have opportunities to work
and for be engaged and for everyone to live in respectful,
safe and healthy communities,” says Kulitja.
She adds: “It’s our work to take care and protect all of
the women in our area. Tere are a lot of women who
gain strength and are able to carry on strongly in their
lives through the Women’s Council work. We have a lot
of diferent programs, including ones that particularly
take care of the really senior ladies in the community;
we have programs for young girls.
“One of the really good programs is to take the young
girls, from really small children to young adolescents
and young women, to take them out to bush sites,
sometimes for day trips and sometimes overnight as
well to get them out on country.”
Tese camps, which are known as nintintjaku
kungkawara tjuta culture kunpu kanyintjaku – or young
women’s teaching camps – are aimed at promoting
inter-generational cultural learning between senior
Anangu women and girls. Te women attend a two-
night camp at sites that are part of the tjukurpa of
families from the area, and participate in painting,
telling stories, weaving tjanpi baskets and doing Inma.
By running the camps, the senior women also teach the
young women frst-hand an Anangu style of leadership.
“After each camp everyone heads home feeling happy,
strong and proud to be Anangu”, says Kulitja.
Te NPYWC is a non-government, not-for-proft
organisation that receives funding from grants and
fundraising. Says Kulitja: “Tese services continue
today with the support of the women because they and
governments see these concerns still needing direct
action and support: traditional healers (ngangkari) who
ofer healing and emotional wellbeing services,
domestic and family violence crisis case management
and outreach for women, aged, frail and disability case
management, disability advocacy and carer respite,
a child and family service for children where neglect or
growth faltering is present and where families have
involvement with the child protection system, programs
for young people, emergency hardship assistance and
a social enterprise that provides income for women –
the Tjanpi Desert Weavers.”
Continued on page 311
Vetements coat, $5,690,
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details last pages.

Let’s
bounce
It’s all about MIXING IT UP this season and
being in the moment, street meets luxury.
Styled by Christine Centenera.
Photographed by Benny Horne.
Givenchy by Riccardo
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Alexander Wang coat,
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jumpsuit, $4,100.
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Ten Pieces T-shirt, $130.
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Aganovich jacket,
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Model: Amanda Wellsh
Production: Wes Olson at
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Mulberry dress, $3,300.
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Model: Aline Weber
Alessandro
Michele at his
home in Rome.
Roman emperor
JAMIE HAWKESWORTH JASON KIBBLER
Gucci’s new CREATIVE DIRECTOR, the unknown Alessandro Michele,

is a lot like the woman he champions: DARING, curiously compelling,
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HAMISH BOWLES JASON KIBBLER
Gucci sweater,
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W
hen Alessandro Michele was translated into the women’s collection’s urban set, with its
appointed the new creative director industrial-metal foor and walls paved in black and white subway
of Gucci at the beginning of this tiles and painted an oxblood red – a set that Michele peopled with
year, the fashion firmament wan, gender-unspecifc young people, each of them dressed to suit
expressed a certain surprise at the their individual looks. (Unusually, he styles his shows himself.)
positioning of a relative unknown at Te men’s show featured crepe-de-chine blouses with pussycat
the helm of the storied billion-dollar bows at the neck, or long-sleeved tees in a coral-red lace worn with
Italian luxury brand. No-one, however, was more surprised than shrunken jackets and dufe coats with sleeves cut to bracelet
the 42-year-old Michele himself. With the quirky, long-haired length. Te berets and horn-rimmed glasses of a comic-book Left
looks of a Merovingian king and a personal style that runs to Bank intellectual, the patterned scarves twisted at the neck, and
fower-sprigged Lisa Corti hippie blouses, neckerchiefs that he the hands clustered with rings, meanwhile, all evoked elements of
scissors from lengths of Indian silks, and fstfuls of antique rings, Michele himself. (When we meet in Rome a couple of months
Michele could not be further removed from the sleekly controlled after the show, where Michele is busy working on his 2016 resort
understatement of his predecessor Frida Giannini, who left the collection, he is wearing no fewer than 11 rings, including a deco
company abruptly in January with her partner, then-Gucci CEO, platinum-and-sapphire example; a Georgian cabochon emerald; a
Patrizio di Marco. carved pink stone skull from Codognato
“I wasn’t even on the list,” Michele A decorative in Venice; a ruby-eyed Victorian snake;
says, referring to the presumed roster of antique installation a new Gucci design; and a nun’s ring
inside Michele’s
high-profle industry talents whose apartment.
banded with tiny nodules, each one
names had been bandied about for the signifying a diferent prayer.)
coveted job. In a subtle homage, he used Abel
Di Marco’s replacement, Marco Korzeniowski’s haunting theme music
Bizzarri (who had earlier doubled from A Single Man as his soundtrack.
Bottega Veneta’s revenue under his “Tom has a quality like a movie
leadership within the Kering Group), superstar. And I love his vision of that
instead chose one of Gucci’s battalion of beautiful, Halston-style 70s American
behind-the-scenes designers: Michele woman,” he says.
had joined Gucci in 2002, initially Michele’s own debut could hardly
working in London with Tom Ford. have been a more emphatic distancing
“Fashion is about creating emotion, from Giannini. “We are really such
it’s not necessarily rational,” explains diferent people,” he says. “I am trying to
Bizzarri. “I thought: ‘Why should cause a little revolution inside the
I look for someone else when he can company, to push another language, a
translate the heritage, and when the diferent way to talk about beauty and
values of Gucci are in his veins?’” sexiness, which is an old word. It’s about
Giannini left before her autumn/ sensuality now. When I started the frst
winter ’15/’16 menswear presentation, collection, I was thinking not in terms of
which was apparently runway-ready, fashion but in terms of attitude,” he
and so Michele hit the ground running. It was said that he had adds, “that sense of beauty that I tried to fnd for an old and beautiful
only a week to create a replacement men’s collection. “It’s not and charming brand like Gucci.”
exactly true,” Michele tells me with a wry smile. “It was fve days.” Te garrulous and engagingly unprocessed Michele is still
His autumn/winter ’15/’16 womenswear collection, meanwhile, wreathed in wonderment at his new role. Of Bizzarri he says: “He
was to be presented a month later. gives me the space to do what I want to do. I have to say that he is
Starting at 9am every day, the newly installed creative director crazy – he said: ‘Do whatever you want. Don’t care about the
worked intensively with his menswear designers; at 8pm he joined money.’ I risk a lot, too,” he adds, “because I destroyed everything.”
the womenswear team. “It’s when I understood what a big company Tis was certainly no seamless aesthetic transition: Michele
it was,” says Michele, who now counts some 70 designers on his entirely redefned what Gucci could represent, working in the very
staf. In short order, samples were made and fabrics sourced or contemporary idiom of eclectically mismatched separates with
created. Michele pulled treasured vintage pieces from his wardrobe a quirky vintage favour, along with precious accessories that he
to use as inspirational starting points, and many prints were taken likens to the relics of saints.
from antique textiles in his own collection – not only the lengths “It’s not easy to live now,” he says. “I think we need to dream. So
of fabric assembled from frequent forays to antiques shops and I wanted to present an idea of something romantic, in dreamtime,
markets around the world but even his carpets and fragments of like in a movie.” He is also enjoying working with what he describes
his upholstery – all “to put together that kind of garden”, as he as “the Pop symbols of the company” – elements like the double-G
expresses it. (Later he used the 19th-century rose-printed red toile logo and the company’s trademark striped athletic ribbing.
that cushions the bed for his Boston terriers, Bosco and Orso – Michele’s mother was the frst assistant to an executive at Rank
a crib repurposed from an Indian palanquin – as the unexpected flms, a British company with studios in Rome. “A super-crazy
lining of Gucci bags clasped with bridle motifs.) lady, from this super-stylish movie world,” as he remembers her.
Michele admits to obsessing about the collections “every single “Tere is something eccentric about people like her that we miss
minute”. He went to see Birdman, for instance, “but I wasn’t today, so I built my fashion show around the idea of individuality.
looking at the flm”, he says, laughing. Instead he fxated on Te way you dress is really the way you feel, the way you live, what
a certain striking red-painted corridor in the movie, which soon you read, your choices. Tat’s what I want to put into Gucci.”
▲
His father, in contrast, was “a bit of a shaman, with long hair and “His taste was contagious,” says Attili, who nevertheless exercised
a beard. Te only dream I have in my life is to be a little piece of a rigorous editing program when they set out to decorate the
my dad, because he was really happy.” apartment. “When I was on my own it was completely crazy,” says
Te fora and fauna motifs, along with the sense of handicraft that Michele. “Twenty chairs to a room, for me, was completely normal.”
Michele tries to weave into all his collections, recall not just his Te couple also has a country house, where Michele worked in
father’s hippie magic but other aspects of his childhood, as when his scenic isolation on the designs for his debut collections. Civita di
aunt taught him to crochet in an efort to focus his wayward childish Bagnoregio is a picturesque village two hours north of Rome,
energies. “I still love to work with my hands,” he says, admitting perched fantastically on top of a little mountain.
that now he picks up new stitches on YouTube and, when in London, “It’s a very eccentric place for very eccentric people,” says Michele
makes pilgrimages to Liberty to buy needlepoint kits. approvingly. Michele loved it the moment Attili brought him here;
Te Gucci design team has recently led a almost immediately they found a ruinous
peripatetic life. Ford centred it in London, house built from the stone rubble of a former
where he lives, while Giannini moved monastery over a network of Etruscan caves
operations to Florence (birthplace of Guccio and spent the next year and a half restoring
Gucci, who founded the company in 1921), it. “Every single time we return it’s like the
and much of the business side is based in frst time. It’s like a love afair,” says Michele.
Milan. Michele, though, prefers Rome. Of course, at Gucci’s magnificent
“Tere is something about the culture of headquarters in the Palazzo Alberini, it’s
the 50s and the cinema,” he says of his suddenly easy to understand Rome’s special
hometown. “But I also need to travel. I need allure as well. Tough its neoclassical facade
to go to London. You have everything there: was refaced in gleaming pale travertine in the
present, past, future, exhibitions, theatre. 19th century, it was originally built in the
And real eccentricity is still very much alive early 16th century under the direction of
with the English; the kids in the East End, Raphael. Michele’s vast studio occupies the
beautiful English old ladies.” He also loves two rooms constituting the former chapel on
contemporary Los Angeles dressing (“the the palazzo’s piano nobile, with an elaborate
way they put things together; it’s not chic, polychrome ceiling. It takes the breath away.
but it’s inspiring”) and New York, where he “Tis is the real Rome,” he says proudly.
shops vintage stores and where he will “I never dreamed of something like this.”
present his 2016 resort collection – “a In short order, Michele has layered the
couture show in a garage”, as he explains. modern polished-travertine slabs on the
“I love couture, but the other side of me foor with a patchwork of antique Persian
loves the street, and I think the mix of these and Oushak rugs and placed a vast 19th-
two can create something new.” century partner’s desk on top of it.
Michele studied at Rome’s Accademia di He has also created convivial seating
Costume e di Moda – he initially hoped to groups with a suite of Napoleon III furniture
become a costume designer – where he was that he left in its original boiled-egg-yolk–
inspired by visits from the legendary Piero yellow brocade but had piped in nail-headed
Tosi, who created the costumes, hair and coral-red ribbon and backed in a 60s
make-up designs for such image-conscious geometric print. “Even in fashion I like to
auteurs as Visconti, Pasolini and Fellini. mix geometrics with forals,” Michele says.
“He is a monument,” says Michele, “a god.” Tere are 14 designers sitting in on that
From top: inside Michele and his partner’s
Eventually, however, Michele considered light-flled country home in Civita di Bagnoregio, day’s meeting as he painstakingly reviews all
fashion a more pragmatic career choice and Italy; looking towards the precipitous location of the images and the thickets of fabric
the retreat as viewed from a neighbouring village.
left the city at 22 to design knitwear in samples. “I don’t like a fashion show where
Bologna for Les Copains. Tree years later, he headed back home to you have only two prints – it drives me crazy,” he says, gesturing to
work with Silvia Venturini Fendi, whom he found “curious about a wall smothered in the prints he is using in the show. “I’d rather
everything and fun to work with – I think that if you work in a woman spend fve hours choosing a coat or a shirt – I prefer that
fashion, you need fun. And the Fendi Baguette,” he adds, “was they have the choice, like in a toy store! But the people from
exactly my idea of a ‘relic’ – this is what I’m trying to do with Gucci.” merchandising are a little bit confused about this …”
Michele admits that his eclectic vision and references are In the room next door are sketches for a few celebrity dressing
complicated for a design team to follow. He might cite Jane Austen projects, including Georgia May Jagger’s dress – a lilac robe
(“I try to fnd the right dress of a modern Emma”) or the weird lavished with chinoiserie embroidery – for the Costume Institute
pastel flm quality in an old Fellini movie. “I’m very inspired from Gala in New York. (When Michele escorted her to the party a few
HAMISH BOWLES JASON KIBBLER
the past,” says the man who calls his work “fake vintage” and weeks later, he found the China: Trough the Looking Glass
washes many of his fabrics to give them a patina. “I’m not interested exhibition, he told me, “so inspiring that I want to redesign my
in the future – it doesn’t exist yet – but I’m interested in the past whole collection!”.)
and the contemporary. My apartment is full of antique pieces, but “I’m so happy,” Michele says amid the carefully organised chaos,
I put everything together like a modern installation.” “because for me, every day I work is a new day. I don’t care what
He shares a poetic 18th-century garret with his partner, Giovanni will be tomorrow. It’s incredibly beautiful to work on Gucci
Attili, an urban-planning professor, and admits it took him a while because I can translate all my passion – I can create the character
to tell the scholarly Attili that he owned 360 pairs of shoes. I want. And I’m having a lot of fun.” ■

“IT’S INCREDIBLY
BEAUTIFUL TO
WORK ON GUCCI
BECAUSE I CAN
TRANSLATE ALL
MY PASSION”
Gucci top with

brooch, $1,605,
skirt, $5,330,
belt, $555, and
shoes, $2,050.
Fendi coat, $35,000. Angela Friedman
top, $250. Brock Collection skirt, $1,175.
Prada pin, $610, and shoes, $1,070, worn
throughout. On right hand: Erica Weiner
ring, $2,695. Xiao Wang ring, $2,010, from
Broken English. On left hand: vintage ring,
$1,065, from Phoenix Roze. All prices
approximate; fashion details last pages.

New vintage
Everything old is NEW AGAIN. A soft coat, a languid
dress, skin through lace, all edged with GLITTERING
brooches and rings, as worn by muse, musician and model
Julia Cumming … It’s all in the finer details. Styled
by Katie Mossman. Photographed by Nick Dorey.
This page: Prada dress,
$4,210, large pin, $610, and
small pin, $440. Kiki de
Montparnasse top, $1,235.
Stylist’s own necklace, worn
throughout. Erica Weiner
ring, $2,695. Vintage ring,
$1,075, from Broken English.
Opposite: Bally jacket,
$3,895. Prada shoes, $1,070.
NICK DOREY
This page: Gucci coat, $39,470.
Dolce & Gabbana slip, P.O.A.
Vintage brooch, $100, from New
York Vintage. On right hand: Erica
Weiner ring, $2,695. Vintage ring,
$2,080, from Broken English. On
left hand: vintage ring, $1,075,
from Broken English. Xiao Wang
ring, $2,010. Beauty note:
Giorgio Armani Eye & Brow
Maestro in 02. Opposite: Chanel
dress with cape, $9,640, and cuffs,
$4,220 each, from the Chanel
boutiques. Vintage ring, $1,075,
from Broken English.
Xiao Wang ring, $2,010.
NICK DOREY
NICK DOREY
Opposite: Marc Jacobs coat,
$18,880. Saint Laurent dress,
$7,270. Vintage brooch, $95, from
New York Vintage. On right hand:
vintage ring, $2,080, from Broken
English. On left hand: vintage ring,
$1,075, from Broken English. Xiao
Wang ring, $2,010. This page:
Bottega Veneta dress, $13,470.
Opposite: Miu Miu coat,
$19,670. Angela Friedman
bra, $135. Phoenix Roze ring,
$1,065. This page: Dolce &
Gabbana coat, $46,500. Kiki de
Montparnasse slip, $735. Vintage
pin, from New York Vintage.
Prada foral pin, $610. On right
hand: vintage ring, $1,075, from
Broken English. Xiao Wang
ring, $2,010. On left hand: Erica
Weiner ring, $2,695. Vintage
ring, $2,080, from Broken English.
Phoenix Roze ring, $1,065.
Hair: Neil Moodie
Make-up: Emi Kaneko
Set design: Yoni Zonszein
Model: Julia Cumming
NICK DOREY
Taking fight
JORDAN ASKILL is an artist, jewellery designer
and sculptor with a passion for the natural world
that makes him ideal to design a butterfly-themed
collection for Danish JEWELLER Georg Jensen.
By Alison Veness. Styled by Kate Darvill. Portrait
by Hugh Stewart. Photographs by Justin Ridler.
J
ordan Askill is one of those people you want to hang out with
– go see an exhibition and drift around New York (his current
home), or lie on your back in Central Park and look up at the
sky and talk. He is passionate about his work: kind, gentle,
cool and completely generous.
“Tere’s a nature reserve here near my brother’s house where
I’m staying,” he says over Skype from Garrison, upstate
Putnam County, on the east side of the Hudson River. “I’ve become quite
passionate about it and I spend a lot of my time there, getting ideas,
especially when I was frst designing this collection for Georg Jensen.”
Te young Australian is the frst designer in 15 years whom Georg Jensen
has invited to collaborate. He was introduced to Meeling Wong, the
▲

Ellery dress,
$1,750. Georg
Jensen earrings,
$495. All prices
approximate;
fashion details
last pages.
JUSTIN RIDLER
“THERE’S A
HYPER-REAL
FEELING SO YOU
KNOW IT’S THE
ANIMAL, BUT
INTEGRATED INTO
THE WEARER SO
THAT IT ENDS UP
BEING A SPECIAL
SYMBOL, A
TALISMAN”
Nicholas dress,
$340. Georg Jensen
bangle, $495.
managing director of jewellery and president in North America, “Monarch is the more typical form of butterfy that’s been used
who initiated long discussions and tempted him by showing for representational things through art and fashion and I thought
of pieces in the company’s extensive archive collection at its it was interesting because of that reason and because it’s protected
headquarters in Copenhagen. and so talked-about at the moment. Tat was the coordinate of the
“I had this complete enthusiasm and I suppose a lot of my more Jensen collaboration, to use something of the moment that made
couture sculptural work with animals morphing together into you realise the time and what’s going on in society.”
these shapes … resonated with Meeling and she could see I love Te texture and feel of the butterfies was achieved with the
working with animals, nature, organic shapes, which was prevalent latest three-dimensional technology. “We sculpted the initial
in a lot of Jensen’s work and their collaborators too,” says Askill. Monarch on the computer, making it look as realistic as possible,
Georg Jensen has a rich history of working with designers and then we started stretching and bending it around the neck but
artists, including a long association with Henning Koppel, more keeping the texture mirrored in each butterfy so you can see it
recently with Marc Newson, and most notably Vivianna Torun hasn’t got that sculpted-by-hand feel.”
Bülow-Hübe, who worked with Georg Jensen Te pieces are made from the trademark
through the 1960s and 70s.
“Vivianna Torun was very directional in her “IT’S ABOUT Georg Jensen silver; in gold with diamonds;
and in black rhodium on silver.
shapes and she really brought this clean, TAKING Askill is proud to be part of this rebirth, as
modern fow to life. She has created quite
a legacy with her work,” says Askill. “Others
SOMETHING he calls it. “I get quite an emotional feeling,
when I look at the archives; it’s the kind of
I was interested in were Hans Hansen, Karl ORIGINAL INTO work I’ve always connected with so it’s really
Gustav Hansen (son of Hans); Georg Jensen A NEW REALM, beautiful to be a part of their legacy and
bought their company in the 1990s and so
there are these amazing pieces too in the
TRYING TO GIVE honour this past,” he says.
Archives and vintage is the fashion buzz –
archive. And Henning Koppel.” IT A NEW LIFE” right now. “It’s a way of really being true to
Te designer was infuenced by both the old the company but taking it into what’s relevant
and the newer pieces. “I thought it was important to combine both and into the future. It’s important because there is so much excess
for the new Georg Jensen pieces, giving it this new birth and life right now, everything is crazy, it’s hard to remove yourself,” says
with pieces like the neck cuf, which is all butterfies fying Askill. “So this idea of going back to someone’s roots and getting
together in motion, ftting and fying around the neck, which was really inspired and interpreting it in your own way feels like a solid
infuenced by Torun.” way of doing things and being true to the brand.
Askill is inspired by an animal and works with its shape to give “Tere’s so much going on in the world,” he continues, “and it
a “hyper-real feeling so you know it’s the animal, but integrated feels like it’s settling and afrming that you can go back to the
into the wearer so that it ends up being a special symbol/formation/ past, be inspired from our past from a beautiful place rather than
talisman rather than a specifc animal – so it’s about taking doing it for design’s sake. It’s about taking a breath, taking stock
something original into a new realm, trying to give it a new life”. and going back somewhere. When you can put your feet down and
Askill’s signature organic shapes are derived closely from this be inspired, that’s great.”
idea of a strong animal: “In my work they started of as majestic Askill was born in Darling Point, Sydney. His parents were
creatures and now it’s more these endangered and protected musicians and his older brother Daniel and younger brother Lorin
species. And it was about showing how jewellery design has are both flm directors, which has enabled various projects. “Tey
developed through the centuries [at Georg Jensen], through art [his parents] were very aware of things we needed to be in tune
nouveau and the 70s. It was important that people could look at with,” he says. “We had brotherly things growing up but we are
this collection and know when it was made.” lucky and have always been very supportive of each other.”
Wanting to draw on this art nouveau feeling, Askill visited Askill adds: “Our parents had us making movies when we were
Jensen’s home in Raadvad, Denmark, where he was born in 1866. very young, so there was always this nice kind of connection. My
“His house was in a forest with woods around and so this nature, father is a percussionist, he had an ensemble called Synergy
this organic inspiration would have been very relevant to him. It Percussion in the early 80s, and he’s a composer and teacher now.
was humbling and I felt quite grounded by the experience. And My mother worked for the Australian composer Peter Sculthorpe.
going into the amazing archives in Copenhagen and seeing that She’s an artist and she paints as well, and so there were always
there was always this nature infuence, in the texture of the metal strong art infuences when we were growing up.”
– especially in the art nouveau period – gave me a real connection.” Askill admits that he has always been obsessed with animals
A brooch featuring images of a butterfy in profle particularly since he was a young boy: “I don’t know where it comes from
inspired Askill. “Once I saw that and looked through the early exactly; I think they were a connection into another world. I used
work and also found a distorted neckpiece, too, it was obvious them as a freedom to explore other shapes and things that were
there was the infuence of butterfy wings.” going on and not naturally given to us; it was a way of escapism
Askill has used two species of butterfies for his collaboration: for me and dreaming.”
the Monarch, which migrates from Canada to Mexico and is close So which creature would he be in another life? “I would be a
JUSTIN RIDLER
to being listed as endangered (“I’m worried that this migration mythological animal, a bird or a panther … something strong and
will be disturbed or interrupted with land development”); and the fast, or I’d be able to fy; something with this mythological feeling
Karner Blue, a small butterfy, which is endangered and protected. about it,” he says. “So something free with a majestic feeling.” ■

Boss dress, P.O.A. Georg
Jensen neckpiece, $3,300.
Hair: Michele McQuillan
Make-up: Peter Beard
Manicure: Jessica Diez
Model: Sydney Barber
Once a bored receptionist who’d nap at her desk, now
one of the world’s most successful businesswomen,
NATALIE MASSENET is CELEBRATING her
brainchild’s 15th birthday in STYLE. By Zara Wong.
T
he most frequently asked question posed to What you’ve heard about Massenet and Net-A-Porter is all true.
Natalie Massenet – founder and CEO of Net- Te spacious Net-A-Porter London ofces are just as you would
A-Porter, chairwoman of the British Fashion imagine: open plan, monochrome and lofty, situated above the very
Council and the #girlcrush of many women brick-and-mortar Westfeld shopping centre (locational irony so
worldwide – is how she came up with the idea good you couldn’t make it up). Tere’s a Net-A-Porter stafer
for Net-A-Porter. Celebrating 15 years in uniform: on a Friday, women are working on Apple computers
business this year, the e-commerce retailer has wearing boyfriend jeans slouched just so with heels and statement
since become the byword for a certain standard; designers tout sweatshirts; the men in ftted shirts and tailored chinos. Massenet
being stocked on the website as a gold seal; and it’s a regular port herself truly does walk into the ofce each morning looking
of call for the luxury fashion shopper. unfappably perfect; a term thrown about haphazardly nowadays but
“I feel like that question is no longer relevant,” says Massenet. it pinpoints the entrepreneur to a tee. She’s wearing a polka-dot Lela
“I’m like: ‘Well, I wanted to create a shoppable magazine …’” she Rose skirt with a white shirt and an Elsa Peretti for Tifany & Co.
drifts of, mimicking the exasperation each time the question cuf, and on her feet are Chloé mini-wedge lace-up sandals (available
arises. “When that question was frst asked, people were like: on Net-A-Porter, of course, though she does point out she’s worn
‘What the hell are you thinking? Where is your store?’” them every day this week because of the low heel height). Well
Asking how Massenet came up with the idea for Net-A-Porter is dressed, practical and accomplished in her career: attributes that
an attempt to understand her and, not to sound like a typical need not be seen as mutually exclusive.
airport-bookstore-business-book headline, the Impeccably groomed, with a steely focus and
“secrets of her success”: how she took a lofty idea
of delivering luxury fashion to women all over
“FOCUSING ON eye contact that never wavers, she still has a
likeable, accessible appeal. It gives everyone the
the world. We all want to know how she did it. FASHION, JUST illusion that yes, you too could be like Massenet
“I’m an ideas person, and it’s dangerous. I just DOING ONE and run a multi-million-dollar company (or at
need to park them!” she says with a laugh. “I’ve
always been like this, I didn’t have any concept
THING REALLY least look like it, if you shop at Net-A-Porter).
She is quick to defect praise and credits her
that this is not how most people operate. Now WELL, THAT’S team, and there are stories of staf Christmas
as I look back at how I organised my friends at MY GOAL” parties where she’s danced with assistants and
school and came up with these incredible interns. In February this year at a dinner held at
imaginary games. My mum refers to it as ‘Bring out the elephants!’” New York’s Indochine restaurant to celebrate the appointment of
she says, throwing her hands up in the air and leaning back in her vice-president of global buying, Sarah Rutson, she sweetly charmed
chair. A former Chanel model who lives in Paris, her mother is the crowd of editors and designers, modestly musing how when
ecstatically proud of her. “She could probably open a press bureau she started Net-A-Porter 15 years ago, she “wasn’t cool enough to
for me, she will be clipping this article and commenting on it. reserve a table at the restaurant”, so she was overjoyed to be able to
She’s like: ‘Oh my god! Oh Natty! Tat’s incredible!’” book the entire venue during the peak of New York fashion week.
Since 2000, Net-A-Porter has expanded to include beauty and Next on her list of fashion world domination is the social media
sport sections and two separate websites: discounted fashion at app, the Net Set, which fuses the community aspect of social
Te Outnet and menswear at Mr Porter. Tere are few plans to media and the world of luxury, Net-A-Porter-verifed shopping.
move beyond fashion. “It’s one of the traits I’ve realised a lot Te concept came from a confux of several factors. Giant plasma
of entrepreneurs have. One of the drawbacks is you start a lot of screens once took pride of place in the ofce, showing staf what
things, get a lot of balls in the air and [sometimes] you just have to was being purchased and where it was going – Frame jeans to
stop and refocus,” she says. “I think we should stay in the fashion Tokyo, say, a Burberry trench to Kansas. Massenet would wonder
space. Tere’s so much for us to do without deviating. Focusing on aloud who these women were. What did they do? What do they
TOMMY TON
fashion, just doing one thing really well, is my goal.” Tere are few like? What did they put on their cofee tables? Her team were
hand gestures when she speaks and she is thorough yet quick to tell her that consumers would shy away from such
simultaneously so concise that it is startling. Tere’s that focus. questions … “Fast-forward to 2015 and there isn’t anything that
▲

anyone doesn’t share about themselves now!” she says with a slowest fashion that could possibly be – and on the other end will
knowing smile. “Te consumer behaviour wasn’t there then.” not be fast fashion but personalised fashion that will allow
At the same time, sales coming from mobile phones and social consumers and designers to create based on design. I think Net Set
media platforms like Facebook and Instagram were on the rise. is part of that scenario,” she predicts, imagining that users will be
“I’m a consumer and I’m always looking at new tech developments able to contact designers for specifc pieces within the platform,
and consumer platforms that are not necessarily meant for a creating intimate bonds between creator and consumer.
fashion business, and so I would always think: ‘What would a Tis has been on her mind even more so after seeing True Cost,
fashion company do with that?’” she explains. She’s obsessed with the documentary about the impact of fast fashion. “Everyone in the
Instagram – getting away from technology involves “my 15-year- fashion industry should watch it; it puts it all in context … even as
old daughter grabbing my phone and hiding it or going to the the chairman of the British Fashion Council where we have
country on the weekend where we have really poor broadband a whole program dedicated to sustainable fashion, it wasn’t that
reception”, she jokes, just. “I’m on clear for me, there are so many
Instagram nearly all day, I fnd it’s diferent issues,” she says. “I’m not
one of the happiest places on going to jump ahead … but as
Earth; it’s wonderful to see what someone who sells a lot of clothes,
your friends see and how the if we say from 2016, we will pick
people you admire see the world.” clothes in collections that use
She called in the team that worked organic cotton, that’s one move
on mobile phone usability: towards doing things a better way.
Alexandra Hofnung, creative We can make a change.”
director of social commerce, and In 2014 Net-A-Porter quietly
Sarah Watson, vice-president of ceased stocking fur products,
social commerce, who remembers embracing faux instead. “When
the early days at the company we started we couldn’t do anything
(“I sent the very frst Net-A-Porter but now we have more infuence;
tweet”). Massenet set them a in the past we’ve been successful
challenge. “If we were to set up in getting designers to change
a competitor to Net-A-Porter, factories. I don’t want to sound
what would it look like? I used to like I’m on a soapbox, but how
call it the Net-A-Porter killer,” people live their lives and manage
Massenet explains. Hofnung, in their choices is up to them, but we
an email, recalls: “Natalie had the can stand for our own beliefs.”
idea a long time ago. It’s about An innovator and entrepreneur
creating a platform for our at her core, Massenet still speaks
customers to interact; it’s a concept fuent fashion; when asked how
she has been talking about since she seeks new ideas, she uses the
I joined the business in 2007.” experience of fnding new brands
In 2010 Massenet sold Net-A- as an example. “I am a journalist
Dream team: from left,
Porter to Richemont group, Net-A-Porter’s Alexandra by background. I read and listen
pocketing $105 million in the sale Hoffnung, Natalie Massenet and talk to people. Tere’s always
and Sarah Watson.
but reinvesting a portion back into something in the back of my head
the company. Ten in March this where I’m looking for patterns,”
year came confrmation it would merge with Yoox to form the she explains. “When I was buying for Net-A-Porter, if three
Yoox Net-A-Porter Group, with an estimated valuation of $4.7 people said to me: ‘You must look at Sacai’ I would look at Sacai
billion. Yoox CEO Federico Marchetti will start as chief executive even if I knew nothing about it. If I went into three showrooms
in September and Massenet will stay on as executive chair. and they all had moccasins, even if we were selling slingbacks,
She could have chosen the easier route, to sit back and enjoy the I would think: ‘Okay, there’s something going on with moccasins.’
spoils of her career, but instead she is looking forward. Net-A- Early patterns predict something that will be more signifcant
Porter bloomed in a time when a bursting tech bubble claimed later.” Even further back, she recalls her ability to notice trends. “It
many high-profle fashion casualties. “Te reason we launched the was like a wave. If you’re looking at the tip of a fashion trend,
Net Set was because if someone was going to launch it, it had to be it would be quite shocking to your eye. People today can’t really
us. I don’t want to look back and say: ‘Tat was a fun ride, Net-A- understand that because the fashion message is disseminated
Porter has a good place in the history books’,” she says adamantly. almost instantly. I remember when I would bring back Naf Naf
“I want Net-A-Porter to help write the history books, but we need sweatshirts from Paris, my friends would say: ‘Oh that’s weird,
to remember that the consumer is moving on at the speed of light where did you get that?’ But not in a good way! Ten a year later
and multiplying and dividing. We could be disrupted.” the US department stores would stock them.” It dawned on her
Te Net Set isn’t just about social media, though, but slots into that she found satisfaction translating the new and exciting to
what she sees as the future of fashion. “I always see things going in the consumer. “Maybe it wasn’t just fashion, maybe it was the
TOMMY TON
two directions simultaneously; there’s never a yin without the sociological level of it,” she ponders. “On a basic level I know great
yang. On one end, it will become even more exclusive, more clothes can make you feel beautiful, smart and powerful, but I love
products that are one-ofs, beautifully made, slow fashion – the being able to educate and turn people’s vision onto something until

“I KNOW WHAT
I WANT. I GO INTO
A SHOWROOM
AND GO THIS,
THIS AND THIS …
I DON’T DWELL
ON DECISIONS
TOO MUCH”
it takes of. Social mobile shopping could have been the Naf Naf publicity portfolio included Lawrence of Arabia), had said to her:
sweatshirt and I could have the ability to say everyone’s going to be “Never be afraid of what’s on the other side of the mountain.”
shopping this way in a few years, just you wait!” “And he flled me with this amazing confdence,” she remembers.
Communicating the new and exciting in fashion came to her It wasn’t always this way: one of her frst jobs was as the
frst through a fashion journalism career that began in Los Angeles receptionist for cult flmmaker John Hughes’s production company.
at WWD magazine. She saw herself as a magazine editor-in-chief “I graduated from UCLA, spoke French and Japanese, was an
one day, a goal ticked of at least through Net-A-Porter’s ofshoot English major and had big ambitions about making movies, and
publication, Porter. On her “Instagram autobiography” (search for that was the job I got,” she recalls. “I was like: ‘I can do more than
@nataporter_mystory – “I really love doing things frst, I think be a receptionist.’” Looking back, Massenet is appalled at her
that was the frst Instagram autobiography!”), which she shared behaviour, which included doodling and sleeping at her desk after
during a British Vogue Fashion Festival talk, she remembers going lunch. “Now I have so much respect for receptionists because my
beyond the briefs she was given, staging elaborate shoots and attitude was so poor … of course, now I realise I could have made
writing major stories in order to be noticed by the New York ofce. so much more of an opportunity than I did. Tat’s my advice now:
Arriving in London she worked at Condé Nast’s Tatler as fashion just because you’re making the cofee in the backroom, doesn’t
editor with the great Isabella Blow. She left feeling unfulflled, mean you can’t get noticed. You need to have the right attitude.”
“confused and soul-searching”, before she was given a book, Film is still one of her greatest passions; she recently served as
Creative Visualization, which sparked a change. “It was a powerful executive producer to Song of Lahore, about Pakistani jazz players.
tool: you imagine something and you believe with every cell in Te power of flm lies in storytelling, something familiar to the
your being. Te universe conspires with you as long as you start former fashion journalist. “Film has the ability to take 400 people
doing the work, it happens.” While she didn’t visualise a global in the dark and envelope them and move them. In work, whether
luxury e-commerce company, “I did imagine a very creative, big I’m talking to investors or shareholders, it is telling a story.”
white space with lots of people and everyone in the team happy, Net-A-Porter is constantly shifting, and quickly: there’s still
fulflled and creative.” She must have told this story a million more to the story. “Am I decisive? I don’t know, yes, no, maybe?”
times, but she still looks surprised. “And that we’d get fowers, she jests, before straightening up. “I know what I want. I go into
which we do, and the phone will be ringing, which doesn’t happen a showroom and go this, this, this and this. I meet people and
anymore with email! It’s the craziest thing.” Te groundwork was know what I think. I’m always the frst person to order at the
already within her. Her father, a newspaper correspondent and restaurant. I’m not someone who dwells on mistakes, I don’t dwell
flm publicist (he had worked with Brigitte Bardot and his on decisions too much.” Tose eyes, still straight ahead. ■
The
new
mix
ART DIRECTION: MANDY ALEX PHOTOGRAPH: EDWARD URRUTIA
What’s behind the boom

in HEALTH, FITNESS
and wellbeing? Why
is EATING WELL a
movement? And how
did ACTIVEWEAR labels
get so good at fashion?
Zara Wong investigates.
L
et me start with a confession: I hate exercise. I’m Jackie Booth, co-founder of smoothie brand Where the Wild
one of those cynics who rolls my eyes at extreme Tings Grow, says the wellness industry boom is a “social
health foods and who considers it gauche to movement that has been creeping up on us for decades but has only
wear exercise gear when you’re not exercising. recently exploded in the last fve to 10 years thanks to research,
But one day, on a whim, I tried on a Lululemon social media and reality television”. She adds: “Tere has been a
zip-up top and Hipwidth leggings – both brands fundamental shift in today’s society, and, thankfully, I see no sign
that focus on activewear, also called of it slowing down or disappearing.”
performancewear, leisurewear, or my favourite awkward Examining the life cycle of the wellbeing movement is akin to
portmanteau, athleisure wear – and I fnally got it. Te cufs of the most trend patterns, where it moves across various social groups,
top had holes to slot your thumbs in, or could be folded over the and falls and rises in popularity. It seems almost fippant to
hand-like makeshift mittens – ideal for cold winter mornings – relegate wellbeing – or the simple act of striving for good health
and the leggings were thick enough to feel frm but thin enough to – as a trend. But this is where semantics can get in the way; the
be easy to move in. I almost hated myself for liking them so much. word trend has an ephemerality associated with it – there will be
Te wellbeing industry is booming – a 2014 Women’s Marketing those who’ll opt in and out according to whim, but there are still
and Rodale report predicted it will be the next “trillion dollar many others who will proudly proclaim it to be a lifestyle choice.
business”. In the beginning it was relegated to the more hippy- Te concept of living day-to-day to the best of our abilities has
dippy inclined, but then turned into a status symbol of sorts. In been a driving force in the feld of wellbeing. It is as though the
18th-century Europe, a collection of pineapples “basic needs” from Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs
was considered the height of sophistication (fresh psychology, has fused with self-accusation. True
preferably, but no mind if they were rotten if at USERS CHECK wellbeing converts have a spiritual fervour about
least you had them to show of), while today it THEIR them, and brands are adept at developing a
could be considered the Vitamix. With an ofcial
description that includes words like “quality”,
WRISTS TO community feel. “We’re more than just stretchy
pants at Lululemon,” says the brand’s general
“precision” and “sleek new design”, it sounds more SEE HOW merchandising manager, Jodie Gear. “Using
like a luxury vehicle than an at-home blender. It
can pulverise greens into juices made with coconut
MANY STEPS yoga, running and other sweaty pursuits, we
create real connections between our guests, our
water and myriad other fanciful ingredients; THEY TAKE ambassadors and our community partners as we
holding a green juice in your hand is part of work to inspire health and happiness in our guests
Torstein Veblen-style signalling process. Or you can whiz [meaning customers] and communities.” She says she will never
together “bulletproof cofee”: espresso, coconut oil and GMO-free forget the frst time she bought Lululemon. “I tried on a pair of
butter, for a beverage that promises to make you smarter, more Lululemon stretchy pants; I felt incredible and couldn’t believe
efcient, less tired and thinner. It seems as though it’s just one step athletic gear could make me feel this way. Tey changed how I felt
away from making you an exceedingly attractive millionaire with about working out and the experience I could have in my training.”
a personal style to rival that of Babe Paley in her heyday. Healthy, With economic turmoil and global uncertainty, buying a piece of
wealthy and wise? activewear or wearing a Fitbit makes you feel like you’re part of a
As part of it, we now have an insatiable appetite for health foods, welcoming, warm-and-fuzzy club.
activewear and more. Apple Watch was launched this year to great
N
fanfare, and despite the device’s name suggesting its main purpose owadays we require a next-level kind of
is to tell the time, its activity tracker is one of the most popular survival where our choices in clothing, food
features. Users regularly check their wrists to see how many steps and more will make our lives and our bodies
they take, how many kilojoules they are burning, and whether more efcient. “Tere has been a shift in
they’ve been active enough during the day. To understand the society with more people recognising the
Apple Watch you’re even encouraged to watch slick video tutorials symbiotic relationship between physical
online, which will somehow make you want to participate in and mental health,” says Noa Ries, a former
activities like hiking or cycling. personal trainer and the co-founder and CEO of Vie Active, an
Te pursuit of good health is not a new concept, but the 21st Australian brand of activewear with a revenue that’s tripled year-
century seems to have taken it to new levels of complexity, on-year since it launched in 2012. She also cites busy lifestyles as a
removing it from its niche origins to more sophisticated fare. reason for the increased wellness focus. “Life is so busy these days:
Eventually it will trickle down and be considered the norm, as is in order to efectively manage it and still be very productive, it’s
the fate of most trends. essential to invest in one’s wellbeing – physical, mental or spiritual.”
“I think wellbeing and wellness has always been perceived as a Some sceptics are blaming the rise of the wellbeing industry for
luxury instead of a necessity,” explains Julie Stevanja, who co- the dip in the worlds of luxury and fashion. In BrandZ’s most
founded activewear e-tailer Stylerunner with her sister in 2012. valuable global brands ranking the value of luxury brands slipped
But it seems things are changing. “Stylerunner has grown more six per cent from 2013 to 2014, and a handful of international
than I ever expected,” she says of her company. “We have achieved brands, including Marc by Marc Jacobs, Band of Outsiders, Kris
500 per cent growth year on year. Van Assche, have shuttered. Many of them cited increased
“Perhaps wellbeing has even been viewed as less important than competition and a tougher economic climate. On the surface it
health and ftness,” she ventures. “Getting enough sleep, vitamin makes sense: if you have a set amount of disposable income right
D, exercise, caring for your mind (for example, through managing now, you might be more inclined to spend it on a new pair of
stress and avoiding harsh self-criticism) as well as eating nutritious exercise sneakers that double as weekendwear rather than buy a
food; it all works together to enable you to function at 100 per new item of clothing that doesn’t have the same bang for its buck.
cent. You really can’t be at your best without them all.” Continued on page 311
Fairytale fnd In awakening HIS VISION for Sleeping Beauty,
the Australian Ballet’s David McAllister sought
a SET and COSTUME designer of exceptional
talent. By Jane Albert. Styled by Philippa Moroney.
Photographed by Justin Ridler.
O
n the day David McAllister turned 50, he Bangarra Dance Teatre. Her wondrous, imaginative and often
had a burning question to ask that would quirky costumes have most recently been seen in Andrew Lloyd
bring a fairytale ending to the Australian Webber’s Love Never Dies, Te Rabbits, for Opera Australia, and
Ballet artistic director’s life-long dream. the Chicago production of First Wives Club.
“We met in this bar and David said: ‘It’s Almost two years after that auspicious 50th birthday meeting and
my 50th birthday today. For my birthday, the Australian Ballet’s wardrobe department in Melbourne has been
would you consider doing Te Sleeping Beauty transformed into Aladdin’s cave, overfowing with silk and organza,
with me?’” designer Gabriela Tylesova recalls with a throaty laugh. feathers and pearls, crystals and sequins and fowers – roses, lilacs,
“I thought about it then said: ‘Okay, it’s your birthday present.’ He tulips, painstakingly sewn into rack upon rack of breathtakingly
was so excited! It’s a brilliant show to do – a fairytale.” beautiful costumes. It would indeed seem wishes come true.
Every signifcant ballet company has in its repertoire a handful “With big classics like Sleeping Beauty, I really believe it’s around
of beautiful productions of the classics: Swan Lake, Te Nutcracker, the staging, the look of it,” McAllister says, “which is why I was so
Giselle, Romeo & Juliet and Te Sleeping Beauty. Te Australian keen to work with Gabriela, because I feel like she has such an
Ballet has an embarrassment of riches, with not one but two amazing history, growing up in Prague and having worked in
interpretations of Swan Lake (by Graeme Murphy and Stephen puppetry and theatre and opera and dance. She takes the
Baynes) and Te Nutcracker (Peter Wright; and Murphy again) and information and gives it a newness.”
Maina Gielgud’s Giselle; but it has long been Te pair has spent close to two years working
searching for its Sleeping Beauty. Until now. tirelessly on the look of their Beauty. It’s the
For McAllister, a former dancer with the
“I ALREADY frst big production McAllister has directed
Australian Ballet, the dream of Te Sleeping HAD A VERY and the pressure for it to succeed is undeniable.
Beauty began long ago. It was the frst ballet
he saw, aged 12, a production in his hometown
PARTICULAR His vision for this Beauty was clear from
the start: a rich, baroque feel infuenced by the
of Perth directed by Rudolf Nureyev for the AESTHETIC AND architecture of that period, with magic and
Festival Ballet. “Te majesty and opulence of IDEA OF WHAT beauty its overriding themes. “Te set is
the production blew me away,” he says.
Since that day, it has been an integral part
I WANTED THIS layered, it has very sculptured elements,” says
Tylesova, who is designing both sets and
of McAllister’s own story, from his frst BEAUTY TO BE” costumes. “You come in and there’s a very
performance dancing in the classic fairytale in ornate red and gold frame, and behind it a
1984, through to being cast in the lead role of the Prince in 1991. castle. It’s like you’re opening a kids’ storybook.” Te set itself is
He has seen countless productions, choreographed by everyone reminiscent of a Russian doll, each layer drawn away to reveal
from Australian Ballet founding artistic director Peggy van another wondrous world underneath. Touches of magic abound,
Praagh to more recent interpretations, including those by with fairies mysteriously emerging through clouds, palace walls
Christopher Wheeldon, Marcia Haydee and Peter Wright. that appear to crack and crumble as the curse takes hold and its
In fact, McAllister had not long ago commissioned a new Beauty occupants fall into a century-long sleep; and a burst of bright
from Australian choreographer and Houston Ballet artistic sunshine that bathes the stage in cascading gold.
director Stanton Welch. It premiered in 2009 – a lavish, exotic A deceptive amount of detail has gone into this production, both
production but one that failed to ignite. When McAllister decided from a conceptual and design point of view. Te challenge of
it was time the company premiered another Beauty he considered creating the 200-plus costumes worn throughout the three acts and
numerous choreographers before discovering the answer was covering two time periods cannot be overstated. Painstaking detail
staring him in the face. “I realised I already had a very particular has gone into each, from the fairies’ colour scheme and themes
aesthetic and idea of what I wanted this Beauty to be and I would refecting their characters – think Canary Fairy, resplendent in
only drive someone else insane with my vision,” he says. yellow and gold with musical notes scattered throughout the layers
He also knew that if his vision was to succeed, there was only of her tutu, to Aurora’s friends, whose tutus resemble roses and are
one designer who could bring it to life: Tylesova. Te Czech-born, handmade, leaf by organza leaf, in layers of graduating green with
Sydney-based set and costume designer has an impressive pink tulle petals. Much of the fabric has been imported, including
background in collaborating with everyone from the Australian a German plastic that is heated and moulded before being
Ballet to Opera Australia, Melbourne Teatre Company and handpainted and transformed into rose petals.
▲

HAIR: JULIE PROVIS MAKE-UP: KYLIE O’TOOLE
McAllister imagined
a rich baroque feel for
his Sleeping Beauty.
Above: Australian Ballet
principals Lana Jones, as Aurora,
and Kevin Jackson as the Prince.
Right: principal artist Amber
Scott in costume.

David McAllister wears a
Boss suit, photographed in
the Australian Ballet’s costume
department in Melbourne,
with dancers wearing lavish
costumes by Gabriela Tylesova.
“It’s an insane process,” Tylesova says. “We’re using lots of researching its ballet history through books and papers and DVDs,
Swarovski crystals and sequins, even though if you say sequins it noting the evolution of the ballet from the original through to Soviet
sounds really Mardi Gras! But they read well from a distance, they interpretations, which altered the choreography so it no longer
sparkle, and you don’t want to load the dancers with lots of weight. glorifed the monarchy. “I feel like I’ve discovered Te Sleeping Beauty
Te detail helps the dancers feel the part, the character.” I never knew … so much more richness than I ever thought.”
To add further sparkle to the production, Argyle Pink Diamonds Te hours and hours of research, while not apparent to the
is on board to support Te Sleeping Beauty as part of its partnership audience, have nevertheless informed this production. McAllister
with the Ballet. To celebrate this year’s annual signature tender of the is fascinated by Tchaikovsky’s score, which he describes as “a work
best diamonds sourced at Argyle Diamond Mine in the East of genius”, pointing out elements of the score where the tempo
Kimberley region, fve rare pink and red diamonds were given balletic becomes 5/4 as the sapphire fairy emerges, a nod to the fve-sided
names, including the 1.47-carat Argyle Aurora and 1.2-carat Prima. cut of sapphire that was in vogue at the time; or the fact that the
Tylesova has plenty of challenges to work around when designing harp, used by Tchaikovsky to denote magic, disappears entirely
the costumes, such as ensuring the wire and stretched organza from the score once Aurora and her prince are married, replaced
wings don’t get in partners’ faces and sewing panels instead with the far more pedestrian sounds of
into the males’ costumes to give them stretchability. the piano symbolising the real work and
“We do trials where you have a costume almost “THE DETAIL responsibilities of the monarchy that lie ahead.
fnished and we test it in the rehearsal room to see
how it moves and partners,” she says.
HELPS THE As pretty and escapist as the story remains,
McAllister nevertheless wants to imbue his
Although McAllister is presenting a new DANCERS production with some contemporary relevance and
production the company is performing the steps of FEEL to ensure his Aurora has a backbone and brains, as
Marius Petipa, the Frenchman who choreographed
the original production frst performed in 1890 in
THE PART” well as beauty. “When this production was frst
done, royalty had absolute control and it was all
Saint Petersburg. For this production, McAllister about the glorifcation of royalty,” he says. “Royalty
is credited as “director”, although he has devised some additional today is a very diferent thing; it’s a multimedia circus and it’s no
choreography. “I’m going to do some nice needlepoint around the picnic. So it’s looking through this prism of a 19th-century world
framework of Petipa’s choreography,” he says. but also shining a light on the fact that it’s a huge responsibility.”
McAllister has created his Aurora on principal artist Lana Jones, When the curtain goes up on this production of Te Sleeping
refecting her “fabulous strength physically, emotionally and Beauty it will take its place as the most expensive in the company’s
artistically”; while her Prince will be danced by fellow principal history, much of the budget raised through a philanthropic
Kevin Jackson, who McAllister says has a romantic wistfulness for campaign. McAllister is aware of the risks. “Every time the artistic
the role. All 69 of the company’s dancers will be performing in the director commissions something you’re putting yourself on the line,”
production. Tchaikovsky’s beloved and intelligent score will he says. “Except this time I have ultimate control. I can’t say: ‘Well,
remain largely intact, and McAllister has worked with music that’s what the choreographer wanted’, because this is what I wanted
director Nicolette Fraillon to restore the order originally penned Sleeping Beauty to look like. It’s a bit of a test of taste and ability. And
by the Russian composer in this, his second of three ballet scores. it’s the scariest thing I’ve ever done. But it’s also the most exciting.
JUSTIN RIDLER
Although the story of Te Sleeping Beauty is universally known and And at the moment the excitement is outweighing the fear!” ■
has been retold myriad times through books, flms, musicals, on ice Te Sleeping Beauty opens in Melbourne on September 15 before touring
and of course, through ballet, McAllister has spent countless hours to Perth and Sydney. Go to www.australianballet.com.au.
Blogger and model CANDICE LAKE
had reservations about taking up
residence in an old RAILWAY
ARCH, but her husband’s visionary
extension transformed the gloomy,
damp space into a tranquil, light-
filled new home. By Matthew Bell.
The bright open-plan
living room, with a sofa
from Pacifc Green
furniture, and, above,
a frst-foor gallery
used for storage.

CANDICE E LAKE
W
hen Candice Lake’s husband
announced that he had bought a
disused railway arch, and that they
were going to leave their beautiful
Candice Lake and her husband Didier
Battersea home in London to live in
Ryan outside their London home. it, she wasn’t exactly thrilled. “I was
Above right: school laboratory like, noooo waaaay!” says the model,
work surfaces were used in the
kitchen. Below: looking down blogger, photographer and Vogue Australia’s own contributing
into the light-flled add-on. style editor. “You wouldn’t believe what it was like: dirty, damp,
and it shook every time a train went overhead.”
Actually, I can believe it. To fnd Lake’s home, you have to trek
deep into south London, to a part of town that doesn’t really have
a name, between Elephant & Castle, Walworth and Camberwell.
You pick your way past various garages operating out of
neighbouring arches and fnd a random Narnia-like door, on its
own in a brick wall in the next-door arch. When taxi drivers drop
her of, they’re bewildered that someone so glamorous could live in
this no-man’s land, and they always wait to make sure she’s safe.
Once inside, it’s as if you’ve gone through the back of the
wardrobe and into a world of light and brightness and natty
knick knacks. Lake’s architect husband, Didier Ryan of
Undercurrent Architects (under which the project was designed
and delivered), is little short of a genius. In what was once a damp
cavern, he has created a warm and luxurious home where you can
barely hear the trains shuttling to Brighton overhead.
He must have quite an imagination: when he bought the arch at
auction in 2011, it was just another decrepit garage with a
chequered history: as recently as the 80s, it was still being used for
cock-fghting and acid-fuelled raves; wild buddleia was growing
out of the brickwork; and there was a suspended foor in the middle.

The home’s extension, which
includes kitchen, bedrooms
and bathrooms, and, far
right, as it appears from
the outside, dramatically clad
in steel. Below right: the
couple in the dining area
with their son, Arden Pierre.
Lake and Ryan, both expat Australians, met in their home opposite. Te light’s so soft that you’re trying to grab it as much as
country, although she was living in New York and he was already you can. And that’s what this [extension] does: it’s all about scooping
based in London when they fell in love six years ago. light up wherever you can and bouncing it back into the arch.”
It was at a pool party in Sydney – they got of to an inauspicious Te layout of their home is not dissimilar to the artists’ studios
start when he declared he would never live in New York and she of Kensington and Chelsea – essentially one giant room with a few
said she hated London. “He was really standofsh and I was prancing little cupboard bedrooms and bathrooms of it, furnished with
around in an amazing big hat and a bikini- items picked up at bric-a-brac shops. Teir
macramé outft, and I remember thinking he tastes are modern and simple with a retro
wasn’t interested in me at all,” she says. “IT’S ALL ABOUT twist, such as 70s Ercol wooden chairs. It’s the
An hour later, she did a backfip into the SCOOPING LIGHT ideal party house, and they also use it for their
pool and he was intrigued. Two months later,
she was at Heathrow with her entire life
UP WHEREVER work: Lake as a location for fashion shoots
and Ryan as a venue for exhibitions of his
packed up in suitcases, thinking: “What am YOU CAN AND designs. So what of London’s thousands of
I doing? I don’t even know this guy.” Tey BOUNCING IT other railway arches? Plenty are used as trendy
now have a one-year-old son, Arden Pierre.
Converting the space was largely Ryan’s
BACK INTO ofces or gritty nightclubs, but, amazingly,
this is the frst one to have been turned into
project. Because the arch is part of the national THE ARCH” a home. No wonder it was named Home of
railway network, tinkering with the structure the Year in the 2013 New London Awards.
was tricky. So he came up with the idea of creating a sort of Ryan has since been swamped with requests to do more like it,
suspended bubble inside, like a trouser pocket. Tis means the although he is resisting for the moment. “I like trying new things,”
house is insulated from all the damp and noise and doesn’t even he explains. “I wouldn’t want to get stuck doing the same thing
touch the arch around it. over and over again.”
CANDICE E LAKE PHILIP SINDEN
One of their shared loves is natural light: a problem when you Despite the insulation, you can still hear the odd rumble.
live in a tunnel. But Ryan thought of a way around this too. At the “I actually love it,” says Lake. “I fnd it kind of romantic. And,
open end, he built a protruding full-height extension that, through believe it or not, this is the quietest house I’ve ever lived in, so that
undulations and cleverly positioned windows, captures daylight occasional bit of noise brings some life into the house, which
and refects it back into the room. “Australians are obsessed with I like.” Cleverly, they also kept the house in Battersea, which they
light,” says Lake. “Especially in this grey country; you need a light, rent out, but who knows where their jobs might take them next.
bright space.” Ryan agrees, adding that: “In Australia, it’s so bright Still, it would be a shame if Arden Pierre never got to throw
you’re always preventing light from coming in. Here it’s the a massive party here. ■
Explore what’s in store and
worth having this month.
diary
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a state-of-the-art facility. For more information,
proven to deliver results that are both immediate
visit www.cosmeticsurgeryforwomen.com.au.
and progressive, Fraxel® is designed to combat
common skin complaints such as wrinkles, age
spots and acne scars without the extended
downtime that often comes with surgery.
For more information, visit www.fraxel.net.au.
A-PEELING
HydroPeptide Anti Wrinkle Polish
& Plump Peel, a two-step anti-ageing
skincare treatment for home use, is
a combination of the Peel 1 Polishing
IT’S ALL BRIGHT

Crystals and Peel 2 Plumping
Activator from HydroPeptide’s
Targeted Solutions range. Featuring
Add artistic flair to your look with pieces from six peptides, microdermabrasion
Hommage à Hundertwasser, part of a unique crystals and vitamin C, the power
series of art-inspired jewellery collections from duo is designed to rehydrate skin and
Viennese brand Freywille. Echoing the work improve the appearance of fine lines,
of Austrian artist and architect Friedensreich wrinkles and hyperpigmentation.
Hundertwasser, who is known for his boldly For more details and to shop online,
coloured paintings and aversion to straight visit www.hydropeptide.com.au.
lines, the collection features organic shapes
and vibrant colours. Visit www.freywille.com.
firstCLASS EDITOR: MARK SARIBAN
The red centre

With its RAW NATURAL
beauty and rich Indigenous
culture, ULURU is one of
the most captivating and
spiritual places on Earth.
IMAGE COURTESY OF TOURISM AUSTRALIA
The desert setting

CREDIT
of Uluru in the
Northern Territory.
firstCLASS
Sunset at Uluru
over the unique
desert landscape.
ou can tell when you have almost the time of day; it even looks purple in the Tere is a range of accommodation at
Y arrived at Uluru when everyone

on one side of the plane gasps.
The sight of the giant,
348-metre-high red sandstone monolith
looming large from the desert in the middle
rain when waterfalls cascade down the sides.
From the moment you are greeted with
the sign Palya! (a greeting loosely meaning
“good/hello/okay” in Pitjantjatjara), at the
entrance to the Uluru-Kata Tjuta National
Voyages Ayers Rock Resort, just 20
minutes’ drive from the rock. Options
include the fve-star hotel Sails in the
Desert, Emu Walk Apartments, Desert
Gardens Hotel and camping. Luxury tents
of the Outback is, quite simply, breathtaking. Park, you know you’re in for an adventure. are also available at Longitude 131.
No matter how many times you look at Tere are myriad ways to see Uluru and Sails – where Nicole Kidman and the
Uluru, formerly known as Ayers Rock, it its surrounds, including the nearby Kata Vogue team stayed – gives you the best
never ceases to amaze. It is a UNESCO Tjuta, formerly known as the Olgas, all-round experience, from the pool to the
World Heritage site, in part because of its situated 50 kilometres from Uluru across Red Ochre Spa for a more luxe indulgence.
enormous cultural signifcance to the the plains of spinifex and 800-year-old Air-conditioned rooms provide relief
Anangu, the traditional owners, to whom desert oaks. Tese include helicopter tours, from the heat and the giant bathtubs in the
the rock holds many sacred meanings and camel rides, sunrise and sunset tours, plus suites enable you to soak of the red dirt
stories, a heritage they refer to as tjukurpa. cultural experiences with local indigenous from the Outback, which gets on everything!
It is one of the world’s most photographed guides such as dot painting workshops and Te resort prides itself on a proactively
natural wonders, but up close Uluru looks bush tucker experiences. Indigenous employment policy and touches
diferent from almost every angle. It is soft But the best way to really take in the of the local culture are spread throughout.
and almost crumbly to touch, and there are majestic nature of Uluru is the Base Walk, For those in need of more relaxation, the
IMAGES COURTESY OF TOURISM AUSTRALIA
so many nooks and crannies, valleys and a 10.6-kilometre loop around the rock Red Ochre Spa is a must. I indulged in a
crevasses – from the stunning Mutitjulu (about three and a half hours, and best signature spa treatment, which began with
waterhole and the captivating Kantju done in the morning before the heat). an Indigenous smoking ceremony, then
Gorge, with its sheer vertical walls – and While visitors are still permitted to climb a cleansing foot ritual and full body
caves full of Aboriginal art. You could Uluru, it is advised you don’t: it is against exfoliation. I emerged feeling refreshed
stare at it for hours and never get bored. the beliefs of the Anangu, the traditional and healed from the divine treatment.
Tere is a remarkable sense of serenity owners, as it is a sacred site. Ten it was time for dinner. While there
when in the middle of the spectacular desert Driving around the base takes are various dining options at the resort, you
landscape, staring up at the stunning approximately 30 minutes; as it’s accessed cannot leave Uluru without an outdoor
sandstone walls that change colour from by entering the Uluru-Kata Tjuta National culinary experience, so I opted for the Tali
iridescent red to orangey-grey, depending on Park, car permits are required. Wiru dinner under the stars. Perched atop

THERE IS A
REMARKABLE SENSE
OF SERENITY IN
THE MIDDLE OF
THE SPECTACULAR
DESERT LANDSCAPE
The Ilkari
Restaurant
at Sails in
the Desert.
The Tali Wiru dining

room and, left,
an elegant offering
from the menu.
a sand dune, we were greeted by champagne Suite luxury at Bush

Sails in the Desert. tucker.
and canapés as our Anangu guide played
didgeridoo while we watched the sunset.
We were warmed by the fres and our four-
course feast (including kangaroo), made for
a truly unique experience. Te Tali Wiru
menu is matched with premium wines,
such as Shaw + Smith Tolpuddle Vineyard
Chardonnay. After dinner, our guide took
us stargazing and told us stories, before
leading us down to the campfre where
scotch and hot chocolate was served.
It was the perfect end to a magical stay at
Uluru, a spectacular world wonder right in
our own backyard. ■
HOW TO GET THERE:

www.virginaustralia.com.au
www.jetstar.com.au.
BOOK YOUR STAY:

www.ayersrockresort.com.au.
WHAT TO DO:
Aboriginal tours:
www.uluruaboriginaltours.com.au.
Art workshops: www.maruku.com.au.
PERMITS AND INFORMATION:

www.parksaustralia.gov.au/uluru. The expansive
swimming pool at
www.australia.com/en/places/red-centre/ Sails in the Desert.
nt-uluru.html
firstCLASS
Planning the
day’s shoot.
Rock
steady
Discover the action
behind the scenes at Uluru
with NICOLE KIDMAN
and the Vogue team.
Fashion director
Christine Centenera
makes some
fnal tweaks.
ULURU TOURS
IMMERSE yourself in the culture and
tradition of this world heritage site by
booking in a tour led by local guides.
MARUKU ARTS
Traditional dot painting workshops and ceremonies are run daily
through Maruku Arts, run by the local Mutitjulu community,
with workshops held by local Anangu artists, where visitors can
learn about Aboriginal art and create their own artworks.
Centenera and
photographer
Will Davidson with
Nicole Kidman.
PETTA CHUA JILLIAN CORNEJO KYLE FORD
PHILIPPA MORONEY SOPHIE TEDMANSON
LOCAL CULTURE
One of the best ways to experience the culture and learn the
history and sacred significance of the area is through Uluru
Aboriginal Tours (UAT), run by members of the local Mutitjulu
Indigenous community. UAT run daily sunrise tours from Ayers
Rock Resort. The tours around Uluru explain the significance of
the area to the Anangu, a culture that dates back 22,000 years.
With stories passed on from generation to generation, the UAT
tours are the best way to learn the ancient history of Uluru and
that of its traditional owners.
Sacred heart The new mix
continued from page 243 continued from page 295
L
et me start with a confession: I hate exercise. I’m Jackie Booth, co-founder of smoothie brand Where the Wild
one of those cynics who rolls my eyes at extreme Tings Grow, says the wellness industry boom is a “social
health foods and who considers it gauche to movement that has been creeping up on us for decades but has only
wear exercise gear when you’re not exercising. recently exploded in the last fve to 10 years thanks to research,
But one day, on a whim, I tried on a Lululemon social media and reality television”. She adds: “Tere has been a
zip-up top and Hipwidth leggings – both brands fundamental shift in today’s society, and, thankfully, I see no sign
that focus on activewear, also called of it slowing down or disappearing.”
performancewear, leisurewear, or my favourite awkward Examining the life cycle of the wellbeing movement is akin to
portmanteau, athleisure wear – and I fnally got it. Te cufs of the most trend patterns, where it moves across various social groups,
top had holes to slot your thumbs in, or could be folded over the and falls and rises in popularity. It seems almost fippant to
hand-like makeshift mittens – ideal for cold winter mornings – relegate wellbeing – or the simple act of striving for good health
and the leggings were thick enough to feel frm but thin enough to – as a trend. But this is where semantics can get in the way; the
be easy to move in. I almost hated myself for liking them so much. word trend has an ephemerality associated with it – there will be
Te wellbeing industry is booming – a 2014 Women’s Marketing those who’ll opt in and out according to whim, but there are still
and Rodale report predicted it will be the next “trillion dollar many others who will proudly proclaim it to be a lifestyle choice.
business”. In the beginning it was relegated to the more hippy- Te concept of living day-to-day to the best of our abilities has
dippy inclined, but then turned into a status symbol of sorts. In been a driving force in the feld of wellbeing. It is as though the
18th-century Europe, a collection of pineapples “basic needs” from Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs
was considered the height of sophistication (fresh psychology, has fused with self-accusation. True
preferably, but no mind if they were rotten if at USERS CHECK wellbeing converts have a spiritual fervour about
least you had them to show of), while today it THEIR them, and brands are adept at developing a
could be considered the Vitamix. With an ofcial
description that includes words like “quality”,
WRISTS TO community feel. “We’re more than just stretchy
pants at Lululemon,” says the brand’s general
“precision” and “sleek new design”, it sounds more SEE HOW merchandising manager, Jodie Gear. “Using
like a luxury vehicle than an at-home blender. It
can pulverise greens into juices made with coconut
MANY STEPS yoga, running and other sweaty pursuits, we
create real connections between our guests, our
water and myriad other fanciful ingredients; THEY TAKE ambassadors and our community partners as we
holding a green juice in your hand is part of work to inspire health and happiness in our guests
Torstein Veblen-style signalling process. Or you can whiz [meaning customers] and communities.” She says she will never
together “bulletproof cofee”: espresso, coconut oil and GMO-free forget the frst time she bought Lululemon. “I tried on a pair of
butter, for a beverage that promises to make you smarter, more Lululemon stretchy pants; I felt incredible and couldn’t believe
efcient, less tired and thinner. It seems as though it’s just one step athletic gear could make me feel this way. Tey changed how I felt
away from making you an exceedingly attractive millionaire with about working out and the experience I could have in my training.”
a personal style to rival that of Babe Paley in her heyday. Healthy, With economic turmoil and global uncertainty, buying a piece of
wealthy and wise? activewear or wearing a Fitbit makes you feel like you’re part of a
As part of it, we now have an insatiable appetite for health foods, welcoming, warm-and-fuzzy club.
activewear and more. Apple Watch was launched this year to great
N
fanfare, and despite the device’s name suggesting its main purpose owadays we require a next-level kind of
The
is to tell the time, its activity tracker is one of the most popular survival where our choices in clothing, food
features. Users regularly check their wrists to see how many steps and more will make our lives and our bodies
they take, how many kilojoules they are burning, and whether more efcient. “Tere has been a shift in
new
they’ve been active enough during the day. To understand the society with more people recognising the
Apple Watch you’re even encouraged to watch slick video tutorials symbiotic relationship between physical
online, which will somehow make you want to participate in and mental health,” says Noa Ries, a former
activities like hiking or cycling. personal trainer and the co-founder and CEO of Vie Active, an
Te pursuit of good health is not a new concept, but the 21st Australian brand of activewear with a revenue that’s tripled year-
ART DIRECTION: MANDY ALEX PHOTOGRAPH: EDWARD URRUTIA

mix
century seems to have taken it to new levels of complexity, on-year since it launched in 2012. She also cites busy lifestyles as a
removing it from its niche origins to more sophisticated fare. reason for the increased wellness focus. “Life is so busy these days:
Eventually it will trickle down and be considered the norm, as is in order to efectively manage it and still be very productive, it’s
the fate of most trends. essential to invest in one’s wellbeing – physical, mental or spiritual.”
“I think wellbeing and wellness has always been perceived as a Some sceptics are blaming the rise of the wellbeing industry for
luxury instead of a necessity,” explains Julie Stevanja, who co- the dip in the worlds of luxury and fashion. In BrandZ’s most
founded activewear e-tailer Stylerunner with her sister in 2012. valuable global brands ranking the value of luxury brands slipped
What’s behind the boom But it seems things are changing. “Stylerunner has grown more six per cent from 2013 to 2014, and a handful of international
in HEALTH, FITNESS than I ever expected,” she says of her company. “We have achieved brands, including Marc by Marc Jacobs, Band of Outsiders, Kris
and wellbeing? Why 500 per cent growth year on year. Van Assche, have shuttered. Many of them cited increased
is EATING WELL a “Perhaps wellbeing has even been viewed as less important than competition and a tougher economic climate. On the surface it
movement? And how health and ftness,” she ventures. “Getting enough sleep, vitamin makes sense: if you have a set amount of disposable income right
D, exercise, caring for your mind (for example, through managing now, you might be more inclined to spend it on a new pair of
did ACTIVEWEAR labels stress and avoiding harsh self-criticism) as well as eating nutritious exercise sneakers that double as weekendwear rather than buy a
get so good at fashion? food; it all works together to enable you to function at 100 per new item of clothing that doesn’t have the same bang for its buck.
Zara Wong investigates. cent. You really can’t be at your best without them all.” Continued on page 311
1 – SEPTEMBER 2015 VOGUE.COM.AU – 2
She called for more governmental Or, as an example of inconspicuous and for everyday dressing. Tis is where
assistance: “Te hardest challenge today is consumption, a toned body from ballet the category is strengthening and there
fnancial in that we are penalised for working barre exercise (the new fad) can be are some very exciting collections
in a remote desert region. If governments considered a hallmark of true luxury supporting this movement.”
did contribute fairly to our true cost of over fashion for fashion’s sake. You need Witchery and Country Road have
service delivery our members would respond time and money to be able to spend activewear lines, and Net-A-Porter have
accordingly: we would do more good.” hours each week in classes. As Stevanja an entire category dedicated to it, called
Many of the women who participated in says of good health: “It becomes its own Net-A-Sporter.
the Inma with Kidman come from Mutitjulu, billboard wherever it goes.” But just “Te health and wellness industry is
the Indigenous community located at the because something goes up (the wellness booming and exercise is a large part of
base of the Uluru, which is home to many of industry), doesn’t mean it’s causing the people’s daily lives,” says Sarah Rutson,
the sacred site’s traditional owners. other thing (fashion) to go down. Net-A-Porter’s vice-president of global
While Mutitjulu has a troubled past, the Someone who genuinely buying. “Integrating
community is now determined to pave a loves and is excited by exercise and a healthy
positive future, both through their fashion, like me, is still “EXERCISE diet into our daily
management of Uluru (the Uluru-Kata going to allocate a IS A LARGE routines is standard,
Tjuta National Park Board of Management
has an Anangu majority) and how they look
portion of their
disposable income to it, PART OF however, we are seeing
this extend into lifestyle.
after their own – especially the women. At even if there is a feeting PEOPLE’S Active holidays are part
the back of the community is a special
clearing called the Women’s Keeping Place.
temptation to invest in
activewear. Te woman
DAILY LIVES” of this growing trend,
as is the exploration
It is a fenced area for women only where, as who wants to buy a of diferent types of
the sun sets over the rock, the girls are Lanvin cocktail gown and Charlotte exercise. Net-A-Sporter was created to
brought straight from school to be taught Olympia heels will continue to do so. feed this lifestyle.”
their traditional education through dance She won’t be deterred by new leggings Fashion wunderkind Alexander Wang
and song. – though those Dior sequinned sneakers forged his signature through street-
Kidman, who has worked with women in might be a good ft for her wardrobe. infused designs of grey marl wrap
Haiti through her humanitarian work with If anything, wellbeing has become a dresses and sporty parkas. As a
UN Women, says she wants to help the new feld for fashion to play in. Te more testament to his Zeitgeist nous, he was
Anangu women educate the rest of the world focus there is on fabric technology and anointed as Balenciaga’s creative
about the work they are doing on their innovation for performance purposes the director, following in the footsteps of
homelands in central Australia. more likely it is to infltrate fashion – Nicolas Ghesquière, who himself was
“Te constant need is to keep educating – the non-exercising kind. “Women want known as a pioneer for introducing
and keep educating our young, as the NPY to express themselves [with activewear] sportswear into fashion including
Women’s Council says,” Kidman says. “So in the same way they do with the rest of printed scuba-fabric mini-dresses and
that we all stay in a place of compassion and their wardrobe,” explains Stevanja. the liberal use of zips.
giving, otherwise nothing is going to Australian e-commerce Mode Sportif Target collaborated with Dion Lee on
change. And I want to believe that things trades in activewear, but of the kind an activewear collection this year,
can change and I want to believe that we can where you mix it with Valentino sneakers a logical step in the designer’s aesthetic
do it. and Mary Katrantzou for Adidas of close-ft cuts and innovative fabrics.
“I’ve travelled to many diferent places, sweatshirts. “Te way women dress has “It’s just that the way we live our lives
and the need to educate people and to keep changed, and we launched Mode Sportif as much more integrated these days, and
people aware of what’s going on for when women were searching for more it’s refected in how we dress,” explains
WILL DAVIDSON EDWARD URRUTIA
Aboriginal women and children … is so from their activewear and weekendwear Lee. “Eveningwear is becoming quite
important and when you see what they are wardrobe – fashion that could take them dressed down and activewear is being
doing,” she says. beyond the gym and a new category of worn throughout the day. Diferent
“And as they say, you’ve got to pass it on dressing, which we label leisurewear,” facets of people’s time are becoming
(their stories) and if you don’t then it dies explains Deborah Symonds, who more integrated because people’s
with them and that’s not good – you really founded the company in 2013. lifestyles are so busy.” Te ultimate
feel the strength of that and the desire to “Designers are using high-tech luxury after all, is time. Because in the
keep that culture alive. I really think it is fabrications in fashion silhouettes, end, isn’t that what we all want in our
so alluring.” ■ designing pieces for low-impact training pursuit of having it all? ■
HOROSCOPES
VIRGO LIBRA SCORPIO

24 AUGUST – 23 SEPTEMBER 24 SEPTEMBER – 23 OCTOBER 24 OCTOBER – 22 NOVEMBER
Tis month is all about power – You might come across as a little dazed Te way you work or care for your
reclaiming yours, mostly. You’re driven and confused this month with mind health – or don’t – is under scrutiny.
to make a name for yourself like never planet Mercury reversing in your sign. Something’s got to change, because
before. Your word is the fnal say on But under the surface your wit and both have been erratic lately and your
anything, especially at home, and you wisdom are sharpening up. You mind and body may not be coping.
have the upper hand in love and at work realise there is more value and love Getting in with the right people helps
now, too. It’s all good, although you in friendships rather than power you raise your game with your career
may need a month or two to process players now. And as fnances start now, which has the added beneft of
this mind-blowing turn of events. to stabilise, home life does too. moving forward all areas of your life.
STYLE ICON: Beyoncé STYLE ICON: Kim Kardashian West STYLE ICON: Alexa Chung
SAGITTARIUS CAPRICORN AQUARIUS

23 NOVEMBER – 21 DECEMBER 22 DECEMBER – 20 JANUARY 21 JANUARY – 19 FEBRUARY
If you’ve spent the past two months Tings are changing for the better. You Recent relationship confusions begin to
getting re-acquainted with pleasure, might feel bafed by a career concern this settle now, leaving you time to ponder
Saturn’s return to your sign this month, but this could be the catalyst that other options. Tis month is less about
month brings back the more serious makes you realise it’s time to take more spontaneity and more about doing
feel of the frst half of the year. calculated risks. As adventure beckons, things right, and the right connections,
It’s time to get down to business and what’s familiar may hold less allure. Get right partner and right ideas will all
make the most of the huge planning, because what you put into place become clear. Even passion needs an
opportunity to change your world now will have a big impact on where element of planning now and, for a
that’s in store for you now. and who you are in two years’ time. change, this is what works best for you.
STYLE ICON: Katie Holmes STYLE ICON: Kate Bosworth STYLE ICON: Kerry Washington
PISCES ARIES TAURUS

20 FEBRUARY – 20 MARCH 21 MARCH – 20 APRIL 21 APRIL – 21 MAY
Rarely have you had such a busy time Your recent erratic behaviour gets an All that’s stopping you from getting
as you’re about to have this month. eclipse-infuenced shake out this month, what you want is your current unsettled
Your cash fow and values merit bringing a new desire to do things the way of thinking. Tis month helps to
a review that could set you of on a right way rather than the fast way. Tis clear away indecisiveness so you’re back
more serious career path. Money may could have an astonishing efect on your in focused territory. Love life and
be the main motivator, but love could career as well as health. Playing by the home life beneft, and even a wishy-
be too as a new love or new direction rules in love also gets good results, washy approach to wellbeing gets
with a current lover could set new though others may seem temporarily a reft now, so allow yourself to think
boundaries that change everything. confused by the new and improved you. big, but clearly, and then act on it.
STYLE ICON: Jessica Biel STYLE ICON: Keira Knightley STYLE ICON: Amber Heard
GEMINI CANCER LEO

22 MAY – 21 JUNE 22 JUNE – 23 JULY 24 JULY – 23 AUGUST
Your multi-tasking mind can be easily You might feel like you’re in a career Make your own needs central this
distracted, but this month whatever or and home quandary this month. Which month. Act on impulses to try on
whoever distracts you from your true needs your attention most? Te truth is new looks and ideas. But nothing
life’s purpose gets booted out of your it’s your relationships that are the issue, superfcial will do now – it’s about
line of sight. You and your at work and home. Get those right and going deep so that you, your home,
ASTROLOGER: STELLA NOVA
home life get super-organised now, all manner of things will be well. It’s all the way you connect with others and
and even when it comes to love down to how you communicate, and even the way you work all improve
you’re focusing on what you need, some tough love and straight talking in the name of self-care rather than
not just on what you want. could make this month an eye-opener. in order to seek attention.
STYLE ICON: Abbey Lee STYLE ICON: Nicole Scherzinger STYLE ICON: Taylor Schilling

Release fat anKÄYm
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1249 Howitt St
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whereto BUY
The details of stores listed on these pages have been supplied to Vogue by the Stella McCartney available from
a selection at Belinda (02) 9328 6288
manufacturers. For enquiries, contact Vogue Fashion Information, Locked Bag David Jones 133 357, Parlour X (02)
5030, Alexandria, NSW 2015 or Level 5, 40 City Road, Southbank, Victoria 9331 0999 and www.thenewguard.com.au.
Stila www.mecca.com.au.
3006. All prices correct at the time of going to print. Strateas Carlucci
www.strateascarlucci.com.
Sunday Riley www.mecca.com.au.
Acne (02) 9360 0294. David Mallett (02) 8002 4488. Lanvin available from a selection at Ten Pieces available from a
Adidas www.adidas.com.au. Delfna Delettrez available from David Jones 133 357; www.lanvin.com.
selection at www.mytheresa.com;
Aganovich www.aganovich.com. a selection at www.Net-A-Porter.com Lulu Guinness
www.tenpieces.com.au.
Alaïa fragrances (02) 9695 5678. and www.farfetch.com; www.luluguinness.com. Thakoon available from a selection
Alexander McQueen available www.delfinadelettrez.it. M.A.C 1800 613 828.
at www.Net-A-Porter.com and
from a selection at David Jones Dermalogica 1800 659 118. Maison Margiela available from a
www.shopbop.com; www.thakoon.com.
133 357, Marais (03) 8658 9555 Dior cosmetics and fragrances selection at Harrolds (02) 9232 8399
The Vintage Clothing Shop
and www.Net-A-Porter.com. (02) 9695 4800. and www.shopbop.com; (02) 9238 0090.
Alexander Wang available from a Dolce & Gabbana available from www.maisonmargiela.com. 3.1 Phillip Lim available from a
selection at Belinda (02) 9380 8725, a selection at David Jones 133 357. Make-up Forever (02) 9221 5703. selection at www.Net-A-Porter.com.
David Jones 133 357 and Dries Van Noten available from a Marc Jacobs clothing available from Tiffany & Co. 1800 731 131.
The Corner Shop (02) 9380 9828; selection at Belinda (02) 9328 6288, a selection at www.Net-A-Porter.com Tod’s www.tods.com.
www.alexanderwang.com. David Jones 133 357, Poepke (02) 9380 and www.marcjacobs.com. Tom Ford Beauty www.tomford.com.
Alpha-H 1800 659 777. 7611 and www.thenewguard.com.au. Marques Almeida available from Tommy Hilfger available from a
Altuzarra available from a selection Eddie Borgo available from a selection a selection at www.Net-A-Porter.com, selection at David Jones (02) 9266 5544.
at www.matchesfashion.com at www.Net-A-Porter.com and www. www.farfetch.com, and Urban Decay www.mecca.com.au.
and www.farfetch.com; shopbop.com; www.eddieborgo.com. www.matchesfashion.com; Vampt Vintage Design (02) 9699 1089.
www.josephaltuzarra.com. Ellery www.elleryland.com. www.marquesalmeida.com. Vetements www.vetementswebsite.com.
Andrew McDonald Shoemaker Emilio Cavallini Mary Katrantzou available from a Vitamix www.vitamix.com.au.
(02) 8084 2595. www.emiliocavallini.com. selection at David Jones 133 357. Wolford www.wolfordmelbourne.com.
Angela Friedman Equipment (07) 5591 7233, Belinda Michael Kors www.michaelkors.com. Xiao Wang available from a selection
www.angelafriedman.com. (02) 9328 6288 and The Corner Shop Miu Miu (02) 9223 1688.
at www.brokenenglishjewelry.com.
Annee de Mamiel www.demamiel.com. (02) 9380 9828. Miu Miu fragrances 1800 812 663.
Yves Saint Laurent Beauté
Anthony Vaccarello Erica Weiner Moroccanoil 1300 437 436.
1300 651 991.
www.anthonyvaccarello.com. www.ericaweiner.com. Mulberry (02) 8246 9160.
Zara (02) 9376 7600 or (03) 8663 0400.
Apple www.apple.com.au. Estée Lauder 1800 061 326. Narciso Rodriguez
Aveeno 1800 029 979. Faith Connexion available from www.narcisorodriguez.com.
Avéne 1800 678 302. a selection at www.farfetch.com, Nars www.mecca.com.au.
Bally 1800 781 851. www.Net-A-Porter.com and www. New York Vintage Sacred heart:
Bassike (02) 8457 6800. shopbop.com; www.faithconnexion.com. www.newyorkvintage.com. Page 237: Nicole Kidman wears a Purl
Beneft (02) 8353 5000. Fausto Puglisi available from Nicholas available from a selection Harbour jumper, $396. Bassike shirt,
Bianca Spender a selection at www.farfetch.com; at www.greenwithenvy.com.au. $295. KitX skirt, $430. R.M. Williams
www.biancaspender.com. www.faustopuglisi.com. No.21 available from a boots, $475. Omega watch, $5,510. Her
Blumarine available from a selection Fendi available from a selection at selection at www.farfetch.com. own ring. All worn throughout. Others
at www.farfetch.com; www.mytheresa.com; www.fendi.com. www.matchesfashion.com and wear their own clothing. Page 238:
www.blumarine.com. Fleet Ilya available from a selection at www.numeroventuno.com. Sunny wears a Zara coat, $110, and
Bobbi Brown 1800 304 283. www.farfetch.com; www.fleetilya.com. O.P.I 1800 812 663. dress, $60, worn throughout. Others
Bottega Veneta (02) 9239 0188. Gary Bigeni available from a selection Off-White available from a selection at wear their own clothing. Page 240–241:
Brock Collection at David Jones 133 357. www.farfetch.com; www.off---white.com. Sunny wears her own shoes. Fif wears
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Broken English Georgia Alice www.georgiaalice.com. Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafni dress, $165, from The Vintage Clothing
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Bulgari (02) 9233 3611. Ghd 1300 443 424. Phoenix Roze throughout. Others wear their own
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www.shopbop.com; www.caandlou.com. Haider Ackermann available from www.prescriptives.com. Fif wears an R.M. Williams hat, $180.
Cartier 1800 130 000. a selection at www.Net-A-Porter.com; Purl Harbour (02) 9365 1521.
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VOGUEPROMOTION
Radiant
BEAUTY
Renew your confidence and embrace a younger
DISCOVER A MORE
YOUTHFUL YOU WITH
DR JACK TING MB.BS.FACCS
Dr Ting recommends basic surgical procedures
designed to rejuvenate three key areas affected
look with cosmetic procedures by Dr Jack Ting. by the ageing process: the eyes, skin and neck.
LASER EYE PROCEDURES

Lasers can be used in the treatment of:
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• double eyelids
• asymmetrical upper eyelids
• wrinkles and dark circles under the eyes
• crepe-like skin on lower eyelids.
SKIN SOLUTIONS
Fraxel is a laser treatment that can improve the
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pores, are also available.
Actual patient after a Fraxel Re:store After photo of an actual patient who • Fraxel Re:pair, which tightens skin on the
Dual 1927nm procedure. Results may has had a laser neck lift. Results may
vary from patient to patient. vary from patient to patient.
face, neck, chest, breasts and abdomen.
It reduces wrinkles and can improve the
appearance of stretch marks and scars.
I
n the current age of hectic lifestyles and demanding aesthetic ideals,
more people than ever are turning to experts for help in enhancing LASER NECK LIFT
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A pioneer of laser cosmetic surgery in Australia, Dr Jack Ting is from the jowls and under the chin using
internationally trained and globally recognised as a highly skilled specialist. liposuction. It addresses sagginess by lifting the
He has practised laser surgery since 1988; in 1992 he performed Australia’s skin and muscles, which improves the contours
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Dr Ting’s philosophy is about achieving a natural look, safely. He uses without leaving any obviously visible scars.
his expertise in laser cosmetic surgery to address skin damage such as
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WRINKLE-FREE
Photo of an actual patient 10 years after an upper eyelid lift. Results may vary from patient to patient. A youthful look can be enhanced through the
use of a permanent Fller for deep lines and
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NON-INVASIVE
Non-invasive treatments that can achieve
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VO G U E AU S T R A L I A
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E M I LY & R O S E
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Beauty & Hair Academy of Australia is a
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M O S S M A N C LOT H I N G
Mossman Clothing is designed in Melbourne with direction from
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SASHA & ME
A Sydney based label founded
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FRANKIE + CO CO made only from premium
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vogueLASTWORD
PHILIPPA MORONEY MONIQUE SANTOS PHOTOGRAPH: EDWARD URRUTIA
Treasure
WORDS: ALICE BIRRELL ART DIRECTION: DIJANA SAVOR STYLISTS:
trove
Gucci red silk shirt,

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TRIMMED in fur and all tied each. Vintage books,
up with a floppy silken bow. from $35 each, from
Ici et Là. Stylist’s
Romance your inner eccentric. own trunk.

au.cartier.com
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A curated series of photography:

While you may not live in an ideal world, now you

With our powerful

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FASHION FIRST CLASS

Deputy Editor and Features Director SOPHIE TEDMANSON

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FASHION FEATURES and ONLINE vogue@vogue.com.au

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Production Manager MICHELLE O’BRIEN Advertising Production Coordinator KATIE NAGY

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Chief Executive Ofcer NICOLE SHEFFIELD

Printed by Offset Alpine Printing, 42 Boorea Street, Lidcombe, NSW 2141

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head to NIDA to try my hand at costume Director of Planning: Jason Miles

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FASHION EDITOR: MONIQUE SANTOS PHOTOGRAPHS: GUY BAILEY INDIGITAL

Bally jacket, Preen by Thornton