Wood Stove Instructions.
Wood Stove Instructions.
Wood Stove Instructions.
Wood Stove
MODELS 13-NC / 50-SNC13 / 50-TNC13
Manufactured By:
England’s Stove Works, Inc.
PO Box 206
Monroe, VA 24574
Rev. 7/2016
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Introduction Questions
• Precautionary Statements ........... 3 • Hints and Tips ..................................... 21
• Welcome! ………………………............ 4
Parts and Options
Installation • Parts & Options List ............................. 23
• Before Installation ………….…......... 5 • Exploded View ……. ............................. 24
• Correct Flue Size ………..................... 6 • Legs & Pedestal Installation ............... 24
• Room Air Blower ….…..................... 6
• Flue System Guidelines ................ 7 Warranty
• Floor & Wall Protection .............. 10 • Sample Tag .......................................... 25
• Side Heat Shields ........................ 12 • Warranty Details ................................. 26
• Brick Layout ................................ 12 • Warranty Registration Form ............... 27
• Installation …………………..……….... 13
• Mobile Home Installation ........... 14 Important Information
• Outside Air Hook‐up ………........... 14 EPA and Safety Info …………….………… 29
• Chimney ……………….. ................... 15
Operation
• Wood ……………............................ 15
• Building a Fire ............................ 16
Maintenance
• Glass Care ................................... 17
• Glass Gasket ................................ 17
• Door Gasket ................................ 18
• Fiber Board ................................. 18
• Burner Tubes ............................... 18
• Creosote ...................................... 20
• Ash Disposal ................................ 20
IMPORTANT NOTES: CLEARANCES MAY ONLY BE REDUCED BY MEANS APPROVED BY THE
REGULATORY AUTHORITY HAVING JURISDICTION
DO NOT CONNECT TO ANY AIR DISTRIBUTION DUCT OR SYSTEM.
DO NOT BURN GARBAGE OR FLAMMABLE FLUIDS SUCH AS GASOLINE, NAPHTHA OR ENGINE OIL.
DO NOT USE CHEMICALS OR FLUIDS TO START THE FIRE.
INSTALLATION & OPERATION MANUAL
MODEL NUMBERS: 13-NCMH 50-SNCMH13 50-TNCMH13
13-NCC 50-SNC13C 50-TNC13C
13-NCL 50-SNC13L 50-TNC13L
13-NCP 50-SNC13P 50-TNC13P
13-NCG 50-SNC13G 50-TNC13G
Thank you for purchasing this product from a fine line of heating equipment.
We wish you many years of safe heating pleasure with your new heating appliance.
Save These Instructions.
IMPORTANT: IF YOU HAVE A PROBLEM WITH THIS UNIT DO NOT RETURN IT TO
THE DEALER. CONTACT CUSTOMER SERVICE @ 1-800-245-6489.
Questions? Need Parts or Options? www.heatredefined.com
CAUTION: This unit must be installed in accordance with these instructions and
must comply with local building and fire codes. Failure to do so could
result in a chimney or house fire.
Keep children, furniture, fixtures, and all combustible materials away from
any heating appliance. Refer to this owner’s manual for all clearances to
combustible materials.
This stove must be installed in accordance with the Manufactured Home and Safety Standard (HUD),
CFR 3280, Part 24 and must comply with local building and fire codes. Failure to follow these
instructions could result in property damage, bodily injury or even death. Keep children, furniture,
fixtures and combustibles away from any heating appliance.
NOTE: THIS STOVE IS MOBILE HOME AND DOUBLE WIDE APPROVED (WITH OUTSIDE AIR
HOOK-UP) FOR THE PEDESTAL MODEL ONLY – NOT FOR LEG MODELS. DO NOT
INSTALL IN A SLEEPING ROOM. THE STRUCTURAL INTEGRITY OF THE MOBILE
HOME FLOOR, WALL AND CEILING/ROOF MUST BE MAINTAINED.
Read this entire manual before you install and use your new room heater. If this room
heater is not properly installed, a house fire may result. To reduce the risk of fire,
follow the installation instructions. Failure to follow instructions may result in
property damage, bodily injury, or even death.
Thank you for purchasing this fine product from England’s Stove Works!
England's Stove Works was started, and is still owned by, a family that
believes strongly in a "Do It Yourself" spirit – that’s one reason you found
this product at your favorite “Do It Yourself” store.
We intentionally design and build our stoves so that any homeowner can
maintain his or her unit with basic tools, and we're always more than
happy to show you how to do the job as easily and as inexpensively as
possible.
Please look at our vast Help section on our web site and call our Technical
Support department at (800) 245-6489 if you need any help with your unit.
We are nearly always able to help “walk you through” any repairs,
problems or questions you may have.
PLEASE NOTE: While information obtained on our web site and through
our 800 number is always free of charge, there will be a service charge
incurred with any “on-site” repairs or maintenance that we may arrange.
This manual is available for free download on the manufacturer’s web site. It is a copyrighted document and resale
is strictly prohibited. The manufacturer may update this manual occasionally and cannot be responsible for
problems including injuries or damages resulting from the use of information found in any manual from
unauthorized sources.
PLEASE NOTE: If you purchased this model from certain stores, their model number may end in “L” “LC” “H”
“CT”, etc. This manual does apply to those models as well.
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CAUTION
If you have any doubt concerning your ability to complete your installation in a professional-like
manner after reading these instructions, you should obtain the services of an installer who is versed in
all aspects as to the correct and safe installation. Do not use temporary, makeshift compromises
during installation.
11. Remember the clearance distances when you place furniture or other objects within the area. DO
NOT store wood, flammable liquids or other combustible materials too close to the unit.
12. Contact your local fire authority for information on how to handle a chimney fire. Have a clearly
understood plan to handle a chimney fire. In the event of a chimney fire, turn air control to a
closed position and CALL THE FIRE DEPARTMENT.
13. DO NOT tamper with the combustion air control beyond normal adjustment.
14. Once the required draw is obtained, operate only with doors closed; open doors slowly when re-
fueling (this will reduce or eliminate smoke from entering the room).
15. Visit our web site at www.englanderstoves.com for helpful information, frequently asked
questions, parts/accessory orders and more. Customer Service: (800) 245-6489.
Note on Outside Air Hookup: You can use an outside air hookup with this stove. We highly recommend it for homes
built since the more air-tight construction standards went into effect. This involves connecting a metal pipe (usually
three inches (3”) in diameter - check your stove - and the pipe can be flex or rigid) from the air inlet pipe located on the
bottom rear of the stove through your floor or wall. The outside end of this pipe should be covered in some manner (i.e.
with a screen) to keep it clear of foreign matter. Be sure to keep it above the snowdrift line and clear of leaves and other
debris. It is necessary to use this hookup if installing in a mobile home or double-wide.
A kit is available from England’s Stove Works, Inc. designed for connecting this unit to outside combustion air.
[Part No. AC-OAK3]
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WHY THE CORRECT FLUE SIZE IS IMPORTANT: 6”
“Draft” is the force that moves air from the appliance up through the chimney. The amount of draft in
your chimney depends on the length of the chimney, local geography, nearby obstructions, and other
factors. Too much draft may cause excessive temperatures in the appliance. An uncontrolled burn or
a glowing red part or chimney connector can indicate excessive draft. Inadequate draft may cause
back puffing into the room and “plugging” of the chimney and/or cause the appliance to leak smoke
into the room through appliance and chimney connector joints.
Today’s solid fuel appliances are much more efficient than in the past. The units are designed to give
you controlled combustion, as well as maximum heat transfer, using less fuel to do so.
The design of this heater is such that the exhaust "smoke" is now at lower temperatures than
in the past, requiring proper chimney size to provide adequate draft. If your chimney is too
large, the heater will have a difficult time raising the temperature of the flue enough to provide
adequate draft, which can cause a "smoke back," poor burn, or both.
Should you experience such problems, call in a local chimney expert.
With the door closed, the rate of burning is regulated by the amount of air allowed to enter the unit
through the air control. With experience, you will be able to set the control for heat and burning time
desired.
Attempts to achieve higher output rates that exceed heater design specifications can result in
permanent damage to the heater. The recommended wood load is level with the top of the firebricks.
Overloading may prevent sufficient air entering the heater to properly fuel the fire.
Do not tamper with the combustion air control beyond the normal adjustment capacity.
Operate this heater only with the door closed.
ALWAYS PROVIDE A SOURCE OF FRESH AIR INTO THE ROOM WHERE THE UNIT IS
INSTALLED. FAILURE TO DO SO MAY RESULT IN AIR STARVATION OF OTHER FUEL
BURNING APPLIANCES AND THE POSSIBLE DEVELOPMENT OF HAZARDOUS
CONDITIONS.
THIS HEATER IS EXTREMELY HOT WHILE IN OPERATION. SERIOUS BURNS CAN RESULT
FROM CONTACT. CAUTION SHOULD BE OBSERVED, ESPECIALLY WHEN CHILDREN ARE
PRESENT.
The optional heat circulation blower on this stove requires periodic lubrication; this lubrication should be performed no
less than every three months of normal operation. To properly lubricate the blower, use an eye dropper or similar
dispensing device to drip 5-7 droplets of SAE 20 oil into the oil port on the side of the blower motor.
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FLUE SYSTEM
1. Existing Flue System
If you have chosen a freestanding unit, this stove is designed to connect to an existing flue system,
such as masonry or a pre-manufactured Class A flue system. If you have a masonry flue system, the
inner liner should be inspected carefully for cracks; if there is no liner in your chimney, we recommend
you install a steel liner or have one installed. If you have an existing pre-manufactured system the
inner liner should be inspected for warping or buckling. Either type chimney system should be
thoroughly cleaned before installing your new stove. We strongly recommend you have a qualified
chimney sweep clean and inspect your entire system, as the sweep can spot problems you might
overlook. The sweep in most cases can make any necessary repairs or recommend a qualified
person to do so. It is not permissible to connect this unit to a chimney that is servicing another
unit.
2. Flue Size
The proper flue size is determined by measuring the inside diameter of the flue collar on the unit.
This stove is equipped with a six inch (6”) TOP EXHAUST FLUE COLLAR. Therefore, the connector
pipe should be six inches (6”) and never less in diameter than the collar on the stove. Your unit may
require an adapter (AC-1677) which will reduce the 6” connector pipe by 1/8”. This is necessary to
accommodate pipe variation from different manufacturers and maintain a good seal. The area of the
chimney liner must also be equal to or greater than the area of the flue collar on the stove. If the area
of the flue is greater than the collar, it should never be more than two and 1/2 (2.5) times greater.
The black connector pipe should be 24 gauge steel and a minimum of thirteen inches (13.0”) from
a combustible wall and eighteen inches (18.0”) from ceiling.
3. Installation of a New Flue System
Note: Flue systems and flue pipe are not furnished with the unit.
Masonry Flue: In the event that you plan to install or have a system installed, there are several
approaches that you can take. In the middle and late seventies masonry flue systems became very
popular, and today this type system is satisfactory. If you are considering a masonry system, you
should consult with your local building officials for the proper procedures on this type chimney. We
recommend you consult with and have your flue built by a licensed, bonded contractor. Most masonry
chimney systems are placed against an outside wall and extend upward beside the house. The flue
thimble is then inserted through the wall, making the connection with the stovepipe and the vertical
flue. Exercise extreme caution when drilling through the wall -- you must maintain proper clearance
between the connecting liner and any combustible material in the wall.
We also recommend you have a flue clean-out door located at least two feet (2’) below your
thimble for easy cleaning of the system. This door should be made as airtight as possible. It is the
consumer’s responsibility to ensure the chimney system is safe and in good operating condition.
The manufacturer will not be held responsible for an accident attributed to a unit connected to a faulty
chimney system.
*IMPROPER INSTALLATION: The manufacturer will not be held responsible for damage caused by
the malfunction of a stove due to improper installation. Do not use makeshift methods or material
which may compromise the installation. England’s will not be liable for consequential or indirect
damages to property or persons resulting from the use of this product.
Call (800-245-6489) and/or consult a professional installer if you have any questions.
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Follow all venting system
manufacturer’s
installation requirements
AND their
required clearances.
41.25” W x 42.0” D
Single wall
chimney
connector
13” Min.
13” Min.
13” Min.
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INSTALLATION APPLICATIONS, Cont’d.
Illustration 1b
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Pre-Manufactured Flue System: In the past few years pre-manufactured flue systems have
become very popular, because this type system is easily installed and, when done correctly, is very
safe. There are many pre-manufactured flue systems on the market, and when making your choice it
should be U.L., B.O.C.A. or I.C.B.O. approved. Any of these systems are constructed of the proper
materials and meet the proper safety standards. Your local dealer normally handles an approved
brand of flue pipe. There are two very popular methods for installation of this type system.
The first, most popular and least expensive is through the ceiling and out the roof. This is the
most direct route and creates a good draw because it requires less pipe. It is less expensive because
insulated pipe is needed only from the ceiling to the roof and above -- single wall 24 gauge or thicker
pipe is used from the unit to the ceiling if you maintain the proper clearance from all combustible
material.
The second method for installing a pre-manufactured system is to exit through the wall and run
the system vertically up the outside of the structure. This method is more expensive because more
insulated pipe is required -- you must use insulated pipe through the wall and up the outside of the
structure. In either installation, proper clearances to combustibles should be maintained. Your flue
pipe manufacturer furnishes a wall thimble or ceiling support box and, when installed properly, the
correct clearances are achieved. If you are unable to install this type system your local dealer may be
able to recommend a qualified contractor for this installation. It is the customer’s responsibility to
ensure that his system is installed properly and is in good operating condition.
The manufacturer will not be responsible for an accident caused by a unit connected to a faulty
flue system.
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Installation on a Combustible Floor
If the appliance is to be installed on a combustible floor or a combustible floor covering, it must be
installed on a 1” thick non-combustible millboard floor protector or a durable equivalent, with a “R”
factor of no less than “2.” The pad must be installed beneath the unit, extending 16” (U.S.) on the
side equipped with a door, and 8” on all other sides. The pad must cover any horizontal chimney
connector runs and extend 2” beyond each side.
Alternate Floor Protection:
An easy means of determining if a proposed alternate floor protector meets requirements is to
follow this procedure:
1) Convert specification to R-value:
i R-value is given – no conversion is needed
ii k-factor is given with a required thickness (T) in inches: R = 1/k x T
iii C-factor is given: R = 1/C
2) Determine the R-value of the proposed alternate floor protector:
i Use the correct formula given in step 1 (above) to convert values not expressed as “R.”
ii For multiple layers, add R-values of each layer to determine overall R-value.
3) If the overall R-value of the system is greater than the R-value of the specified floor protector,
the alternate is acceptable.
EXAMPLE:
The specified floor protector should be ¾” thick material with a k-factor of 0.84. The proposed
alternate is 4” brick with a C-factor of 1.25 over 1/8” mineral board with a k-factor of 0.29.
Step (a): Use formula above to convert specification to R-value.
R = 1/k x T = 1/0.84 x .75 = 0.893
Step (b): Calculate R of proposed system.
4” brick of C = 1.25, therefore R brick = 1/C =1/1.25 = 0.80
1/8” mineral board of k = 0.29, therefore Rmin.bd. = 1/0.29 x 0.125 = 0.431
Total R = Rbrick + Rmineral board = 0.8 + 0.431 = 1.231
Step (c): Compare proposed system of R of 1.231 to specified R of 0.893. Since proposed
system R is greater than required, the system is acceptable.
Definitions:
Thermal conductance = C = _____Btu____ = ____W____
(hr)(ft2)(deg F) (m2)(deg K)
2. Wall Protection
Please see Illustration 1 for clearances to walls. In some areas local codes may require thirty-six
inches (36”) from a combustible, therefore it is very important that you check with local officials. If
you need to place your unit closer to a combustible wall, some protection will be necessary. If an
approved wall board is used this will reduce your clearance by two thirds (2/3); however, a one inch
(1”) air space has to be between the board and the wall. If you have a ceiling flue hook-up, you will
need protection from the floor to the ceiling if you do not meet the normal clearances. If you have a
wall flue hook up, you will need wall protection at least twelve inches (12”) above the wall thimble.
11
3. Side Heat Shields
Side
This accessory item Heat
comes with the hardware Shield
(six (6) mounting screws)
necessary to install it on
the rear of the stove. This Rear Heat Shield
is a two-piece heat shield,
but is installed one piece at
a time. There are pre-
punched holes on each
side of the Rear Heat
Shield; while holding each Side
piece of the Side Heat Heat
Shield in place, align the Shield Install AC-16 Optional
pre-punched holes in the Blower on these (4) mounting
Side Heat Shield with the holes. See “Optional Blower
existing holes in the Rear Instructions” on page 4 for
Heat Shield, and fasten instructions.
with the screws provided.
See Illustration 1 for
clearances with and without Illustration 3 – Side Heat Shield and Blower Installation
side heat shields.
Illustration 4
BRICK LAYOUT
1 – 9” x 4” x 1.25” brick (Qty. 11) 2 – 9” x 4” x 1.25” brick w/ .75 x .75 notch (Qty. 2)
3 – 4” x 2.5” x 1.25” brick (Qty. 1) 4 – 4.5” x 4” metal plate (Ash Drawer Plate, Qty. 1)
5 – 4” x 4.5” x 1.25” brick (Qty. 1) 6 – 9” x 4” x 1.25” brick w/ 1” x 3” notch (Qty. 1)
7 – 9” x 2.5” x 1.25” brick (Qty. 2)
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FREESTANDING PLACEMENT AND INSTALLATION
The first problem you may encounter is getting your stove into your home -- all of our stove
products are well constructed, which makes them rather heavy. Three to four adults can normally
handle a unit, but we still recommend using a handcart. Never attempt to handle a heating product
alone!!! The door and brick can be temporarily removed to lighten the unit (refer to Brick Layout).
After the unit is placed into position, install the spring handles and attach any optional equipment.
INSTALLATION
1. Remove all parts from inside the stove body. (If you purchased a leg unit, and it has the factory
packaging, remove the body of the stove from the shroud that it is attached to, referring to
Illustration 7 later in this manual. Those instructions detail how to exchange legs and pedestal,
but removal of the shroud is accomplished in the same manner).
2. Select the proper location for the stove. These appliances must not be installed any closer than
the minimum clearance to combustible materials shown in Illustration 1. The stove must be
installed on a non-combustible surface as shown in Illustration 1 and Illustration 2.
3. If non-combustible materials have been installed on the walls, obtain the minimum clearances
from either the manufacturer of these materials or the local building inspector’s office.
4. Install the stovepipe INSIDE the flue collar on the top of the stove, between the stove and the
chimney.
5. DO NOT use a grate to elevate the fire.
6. A clearance of 18 inches (18”) between the single wall stovepipe and combustible materials is
required. Check with authorities having jurisdiction in your area with any questions.
7. All pipe sections must be connected with the male (crimped) end toward the stove.
8. Fasten the stove pipe to the flue collar by the use of three sheet metal screws. Do the same at
each additional joint to make the entire installation rigid.
9. Maintain the required diameter flue for the entire installation.
10. If you are connecting the stove to an old masonry flue, be sure to have it inspected for cracks
and general condition. Resizing with a stainless steel liner may be required.
11. It is recommended that no more than two 90-degree bends be used in the stovepipe installation.
More than two 90-degree bends may decrease the amount of draw, and possibly cause smoke
spillage.
12. A damper is not required in this installation. Remove the damper plate in the chimney or secure
it in the OPEN position.
13
13. Single wall flue pipe assemblies must not exceed 10 feet (10’) in overall length.
Secure the heater to the floor using the two holes in the pedestal. If the unit is on a combustible
surface, you will need to drill matching holes in the floor protection that you choose (see Floor
Protection section). Do not disturb the structural integrity of the home, and be sure the unit is
permanently electrically grounded to the chassis of your home. Remember that outside combustion
air is mandatory, and not to install the unit in a sleeping room of the home.
Be sure to install in accordance with 24 CFR, Part 3280 (HUD).
When installing this model in a mobile home or double wide it is necessary to supply the
combustion air into the unit from outside the dwelling. NOTE: THIS STOVE IS MOBILE HOME AND
DOUBLE WIDE APPROVED (WITH OUTSIDE AIR HOOK-UP) FOR THE PEDESTAL MODEL ONLY
– NOT FOR LEG MODELS.
This can be done by running a thin gauge three inch (3”) pipe (flex or rigid) from the air inlet pipe
located on the rear of the stove through the floor or wall (measure pipe to ensure you obtain the
correct size). The outside end of this pipe should be covered in some manner (i.e. screen) to keep it
clear of foreign matter. Be sure to keep it above the snowdrift line and clear of leaves and other
debris. If you are installing this stove in a regular dwelling this connection is not necessary, but is
recommended in air-tight homes.
A kit is available from England’s Stove Works, Inc. designed for connecting this unit to outside
combustion air. [Part No. AC-OAK3]
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CHIMNEY
OPERATION
Do not use a grate or elevate the fire. Build the wood fire directly on the bricks. When the stove is
used for the first time, solvents in the paint will smoke off as the stove “cures.”
WOOD –
This heater is designed to burn natural wood only. Higher efficiency and lower emissions
generally result when burning air-dried seasoned hardwood, as compared to softwood or to green or
freshly-cut hardwood.
Use only dry, seasoned wood. Green wood, besides burning at only 60 percent of the fuel value of
dry wood, deposits creosote on the inside of the stove and along the chimney. This can cause
extreme danger of chimney fire. To be called “seasoned,” wood must be dried for a year.
Regardless of whether the wood is green or seasoned, it should be stored in a ventilated, sheltered
area to allow proper drying during the year. Wood should be stored beyond recommended
clearances from combustibles.
DO NOT BURN:
Treated Wood, Garbage, Solvents, Trash, Cardboard, Colored Paper or Coal.
15
FIRST FIRE –
BUILDING A FIRE
1. Open the air inlet control fully (See Illustration 6).
2. Place a small amount of crumpled paper or approved starter material in the stove.
3. Cover the paper or approved starter material with a generous amount of kindling in a “teepee”
shape, and a few small pieces of wood.
4. Ignite this fuel and close the door most of the way (leave it open slightly).
5. Add larger pieces of wood as the fire progresses, being careful not to overload. Do not fill the
firebox beyond the firebrick area. A coal bed of (ideally) 1” to 2” should be established to
achieve optimum performance.
6. This unit is designed to function most effectively when air is allowed to circulate to all areas of
the firebox. A good way of achieving this is to rake a small (1” to 2” wide) “trough” in the center
of the coal bed, from front to back, prior to loading the fuel.
7. Once fuel has been loaded, close the door and fully open the air inlet control, until the fire is well
established (approximately 20 minutes), being careful not to over-fire.
8. Readjust the air inlet control to the desired burn rate. If excessive smoke fills the firebox, open
the air inlet control slightly, until flames resume and the wood is sufficiently ignited. Basically,
Closed = “Low;” ½ Way Open = “Medium;” and Fully Open = “High.”
9. When refueling, adjust the air control to the fully open position. When the fire brightens,
open the door VERY slowly and carefully. This will prevent gases from igniting and causing
smoke and flame spillage.
10. At this point you may add fuel, being careful not to overload.
16
GLASS CARE
REPLACE GLASS ONLY WITH HIGH-TEMPERATURE ROBAX PYROCERAM OF THE
PROPER SIZE AND THICKNESS.
1. Inspect the glass regularly for cracks or breaks. Surface scratches are acceptable and normal,
but if this glass becomes cracked in any area, the unit should be shut down and the window
replaced with this high-temperature ceramic glass.
2. Do not slam the door or otherwise impact the glass. When closing doors, make sure that logs
or other objects do not protrude and impact the glass.
3. Do not clean the glass with materials which may scratch (or otherwise damage) the glass.
Scratches on the glass can develop into cracks or breaks.
4. Never attempt to clean the glass while the unit is hot. If the deposit is not very heavy, normal
glass cleaners are adequate with a plain, non-abrasive scouring pad. Heavier deposits may be
removed with the use of an oven cleaner.
5. NEVER put substances that can ignite explosively inside the unit, since even small explosions
in confined areas can blow out the glass.
6. This unit has an airwash system, designed to reduce deposits on the glass.
GASKET REPLACEMENT
After extensive use, the sealing material which provides glass and door seal may need to be replaced
if it does not sustain its resilience. Inspect the glass and door seal periodically to ensure proper seal.
If the gaskets become frayed or worn, replace immediately. Contact your dealer or Customer Service
at (800) 245-6489 for approved replacement parts.
The following steps should be followed for replacement of the glass gasket:
5. Replace the new gasket, starting at the bottom of the glass and working along the edges. Be
sure to center the gasket channel on the glass.
6. Trim the gasket to length and butt the ends together.
7. Replace the glass in the door, being sure not to over-tighten the screw and clip.
You may order parts and options on our web site: www.englanderstoves.com,
or by calling (800) 516-3636 (parts orders only, call 800-245-6489 for technical questions).
17
The following steps should be followed for replacement of the door gasket:
2. Remove the old door gasket and clean the gasket channel.
3. Using an approved high-temperature gasket cement, apply a thin coat in the bottom of the
channel.
4. Starting at the hinge side of the door, work into the channel around the door unit, trim to length
and butt the ends together.
5. Close the door and allow three to four hours for the cement to set before restarting any fire.
MAINTENACE: This unit is equipped with a ceramic Fiber Board ceiling baffle. After extensive use,
the board should be removed and cleaned.
The following steps should be followed for cleaning or replacement:
2. There is one screw in each stainless steel tube holder, located in the fire box ceiling. Remove
the screws from the front and middle tube holders.
3. Shift the tube to the right, so that one end comes completely out of the socket. Drop the end
down and pull it out by pulling it back to the left.
4. Drop the board down and push the left corner to the top left. Bring the right corner down to the
bottom right of your door opening, and pull the right side out first.
5. Vacuum the board off and blow the carbon out of the tubes, if there is any build-up.
6. Re-install the board and tubes, reversing the same method they were removed.
18
19
Placement of Stainless Steel Burner Tubes for all 13-NCMH, 50-SNC13MH and 50-TNC13MH
stove models.
CREOSOTE
When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and other organic vapors. These combine with moisture
to form creosote. Creosote vapors condense in the relatively cool chimney flue of a slow-burning fire
– as a result, creosote residue accumulates on the lining of the flue. If ignited, this creosote makes an
extremely hot fire. The chimney should be inspected on a regular basis during the heating season, to
determine if a creosote build-up has accumulated. If it has, the creosote should be removed to
reduce the risk of chimney fire.
2. Burn the stove with the draft control fully open for approximately 20-30 minutes every time you
apply fresh wood. This allows wood to achieve the charcoal stage faster, and burns wood vapors
which might otherwise be deposited within the system.
3. BURN ONLY SEASONED WOOD. Avoid burning wet or green wood. Seasoned wood is wood
that has been dried for at least one year.
4. A small, hot fire is preferable to a large, smoldering one that can deposit creosote within the
system.
5. Establish a routine for fuel, wood burner and firing technique. Check daily for creosote build-up
until experience shows you how often you need to clean to be safe. Keep in mind that the hotter
the fire, the less creosote is deposited, and weekly cleanings may be necessary in milder weather,
although monthly cleanings may be enough in the coldest months. Contact your local authority for
information on how to handle a chimney fire, and have a clearly-understood plan to handle a
chimney fire.
ASH DISPOSAL
Regularly inspect the ash build-up in your unit and remove as necessary. Ashes can be removed
from the unit by shoveling them off the firebrick. This unit has an ash drawer plate (see Illustration 4)
that can be removed from the stove; once removed, the ashes can be raked through the opening and
into the ash pan.
Caution: The ash drawer plate can be extremely hot!! Never remove red-hot ashes from the
appliance; allow ashes to cool before dropping into the ash pan. Ashes should be placed in a metal
container with an airtight lid. The ashes should be placed outside on a noncombustible surface and
completely away from any combustible materials. The ashes should remain in the airtight container
until they have completely cooled.
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IMPORTANT: HELPFUL HINTS AND TIPS WORTH REVIEWING
1. What is the correct way to start a fire?
You will need small pieces of dry wood (kindling) and paper. Use only newspaper or paper
that has not been coated or that has had materials glued or applied to it. Never use coated or
colored paper (such as advertising flyers).
Open the door of the wood stove.
Crumple several pieces of paper, and place them in the center of the firebox, directly on the
firebricks of the stove. Never use a grate to elevate the fire.
Place small pieces of dry wood (kindling) over the paper in the form of a “teepee.” This allows
for good air circulation, which is important for good combustion.
Light the crumpled paper in two or three different locations. NOTE: It is important to heat the
air in the stovepipe for draft to begin.
Fully open the air control of the wood stove (See Illustration 6), and close the door until it is
just slightly open, allowing for air to be introduced into the firebox. Never leave the door fully
open, as sparks from the kindling may occur, causing injury. As the fire begins to burn the
kindling, some additional kindling may be needed to sustain the fire. DO NOT add more paper
after the fire has started.
Once the kindling has begun to burn, start adding some small pieces of seasoned, dry
firewood. NOTE: Adding large pieces at the early stages will only serve to smother the fire.
Continue adding small pieces of seasoned, dry firewood, keeping the door slightly open until
each piece starts to ignite. Remember to always open the door slowly when placing wood into
the fire.
Once the wood has started to ignite and the smoke has reduced, close the stove door fully.
(Reduction of smoke is a good indication that the draft in the chimney has begun, and good
combustion is now possible.) Larger pieces of seasoned, dry firewood can now be added
when there is sufficient space in the firebox. Adjust the air control setting to your desired
setting.
NOTE: The lower the air control setting, the longer the burn time of the firewood.
3. What does dry, seasoned wood mean, and what is considered to be hardwood?
Wood that has been dried for a period of one year in a well-ventilated and sheltered area is
considered dry, seasoned wood. Hardwoods generally come from slow-growth trees, such as
Oak or Fir. Softwoods generally come from fast-growth trees, such as Pine or Spruce.
4. Will following the steps listed above result in a perfect fire every time?
A good answer would be “most of the time.” There are many variables that can affect your
rate of success when starting a fire, and experience will teach you how to deal with the
variables. This section of the manual will cover some of the variables that can affect a fire,
and time and patience will contribute to your ability to start a good fire consistently.
6. Why is there always a large quantity of thick black smoke in the firebox?
A large quantity of thick black smoke in the firebox is a possible indication that you have poor
draft.
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7. Is it normal for soot to cover the glass at the beginning of a fire?
This stove has been built with an air wash system that will help keep the glass clear when
the firebox has reached a good operating temperature, and also has a good draft. Cold
firebox temperature and poor draft cause soot to form on the glass. Once the firebox
temperature and the draft increase, the soot should burn off.
8. What is “draft?”
Draft is the ability of the chimney to exhaust draw by-products produced during the normal
process of combustion.
10. Should I close or open the air control fully when shutting down the stove?
When shutting down the stove, fully open the air control. This will allow chimney temperatures
to remain as high as possible for as long as possible. Remember, cold chimney temperatures
create creosote.
NOTE: This section is intended as an aid and does not supersede any local, state or like
requirements. Check with officials or authorities having jurisdiction in your area.
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PARTS, ACCESSORIES AND OPTIONS LIST
(Options and trim (i.e. brass and nickel) interchange for variety.
REPLACEMENT PARTS
AC-G17 DOOR GLASS KIT WITH GASKET (16 ½ “ x 9 ¼ “ x .197”)
AC-GGK DOOR GLASS GASKET KIT (gasket only, no glass)
AC-DGKNC DOOR GASKET KIT (5/8” High-Density fiberglass rope gasket)
AC-SB 9” X 4” X 1 ¼” FIREBRICK (see Brick Layout diagram)
AC-SBN 9” X 4” X 1 ¼” FIREBRICK W/ .75 X .75 NOTCH (see Brick Layout diagram)
AC-SBN 9” X 4” X 1 ¼” FIREBRICK W/ 1” x 3” NOTCH (see Brick Layout diagram
AC-SB4.5 4” X 4 ½” X 1 ¼” FIREBRICK (see Brick Layout diagram)
AC-SB9x2.5 9” X 2 ½” X 1 ¼” FIREBRICK (see Brick Layout diagram)
AC-SB2 4” X 2 ½ ” X 1 ¼” FIREBRICK (see Brick Layout diagram)
AC-13BTF FRONT BURNER TUBE
AC-13BTM MIDDLE BURNER TUBE
AC-13BTR REAR BURNER TUBE
AC-13CFB-MH CERAMIC FIBER BOARD
AC-SH BRASS DOOR SPRING HANDLE
AC-SHN NICKEL DOOR SPRING HANDLE
AC-SH4 BRASS AIR CONTROL SPRING HANDLE
AC-SH4N NICKEL AIR CONTROL SPRING HANDLE
AC-03 BRASS ASH PAN KNOB
AC-03BN NICKEL ASH PAN KNOB
AC-MBSP HI-TEMPERATURE BLACK PAINT
OPTIONS
AC-16 ROOM AIR BLOWER
AC-NCSHSB SIDE HEAT SHIELD SYSTEM (BLACK)
AC-108 BRASS ACCENT TRIM RING FOR DOOR (“C,” “P” AND “L” MODELS ONLY)
AC-108BN NICKEL ACCENT TRIM RING FOR DOOR (“C,” “P” AND “L” MODELS ONLY)
AC-107 BRASS LIP TRIM
AC-107BN NICKEL LIP TRIM
All parts can be ordered from your local dealer or from the factory at 1-800-516-3636.
NOTE: Parts and accessories are also available on our web site: www.englanderstoves.com
If you have any questions or problems contact the Customer Service Department.
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DIRECTIONS FOR INSTALLATION OF
LEGS OR PEDESTAL:
(Stove must be cooled and all ashes cleaned out)
* Remove bricks, disconnect flue, and turn stove on its back.
* If you are replacing existing legs or pedestal, disconnect
the existing legs or pedestal.
To install legs:
1. Each leg will fit into a pre-made slot on each corner of
the bottom of the unit.
2. A 3/8” x 1-1/2” Carriage Bolt and matching nut is
supplied with each leg. Fit a leg into a slot, and match
the hole on the leg with the hole in the slot. Attach the
legs one at a time, using the supplied bolts and nuts.
Tighten securely.
To install pedestal:
1. Place spacers (provided) between the slots on the unit
and the pedestal base (one spacer will fit on each side
of the pedestal). Match the four holes in the pedestal
(2 on each side) with the holes in the spacers and slots
on the unit.
2. Use the four 3/8” x 1-1/2” Carriage Bolts and nuts
(provided) to attach the pedestal to the base of the
stove. Tighten securely.
* After attaching the legs or pedestal, turn unit upright,
reconnect flue and replace bricks according to manual.
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You may write your unit’s Manufacture Date and Serial Number
in the blank spaces on this sample tag, for future reference. This
sample tag also shows the safety info. such as UL testing
standard, etc. for your local officials, or anyone else who may
need reference information.
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Have this information on hand if you phone the factory or your dealer regarding this product.
Procedure:
Purchaser must give notice of claim of defect within the warranty period and pay transportation to and from a
service center designated by the factory. The dealer from which the unit was purchased or the factory, at our
option, will perform the warranty service.
Other Rights:
This warranty gives you specific legal rights, and you may also have other rights, which may vary from state to
state.
NOTE: THIS WARRANTY IS NULL AND VOID IF YOU DO NOT RETURN THE ATTACHED
WARRANTY REGISTRATION WITH A COPY OF THE SALES RECEIPT WITHIN 30
DAYS FROM THE DATE OF PURCHASE.
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WARRANTY REGISTRATION for England’s Stove Works
Purchased by (Name) ______________________________________________
Address _________________________________________________________
City ________________________ State __________ Zip _________________
Telephone _______________________________________________________
Email Address ____________________________________________________
DEALER INFORMATION
Purchased From (Dealer) ___________________________________________
Address _________________________________________________________
City ________________________ State __________ Zip _________________
UNIT INFORMATION
(Please be sure to refer to sticker on back of manual or box to complete this section)
Model Number _____________________ Purchase Date _________________
Purchase Price ____________________
Serial Number _____________________ Mfg. Date ______________________
How did you first hear about our product? (please check one)
___ Word of Mouth ___ Burn Trailer Demonstration ___ Internet
Other: ____________________________________________________
Where did you receive information about our product? (please check one)
___ Rec’d. info. via phone ___ Dealer (Name of dealer): _________________
___ Internet Other: ______________________________________________
IMPORTANT NOTICE
THIS REGISTRATION INFORMATION MUST BE ON FILE FOR THIS WARRANTY TO BE VALID.
PLEASE MAIL THIS INFORMATION WITHIN THIRTY (30) DAYS FROM THE DATE OF PURCHASE.
Mail To:
England’s Stove Works, Inc.
Customer Service Department
P.O. Box 206
Monroe, VA 24574
Or, Fax To:
(434) 929-4810 – 24 hours a day
Or, now available – Go online to complete your Warranty Registration!
Visit www.englanderstoves.com if you prefer to register online.
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WOOD - Meets the 2015 U.S. Environmental Protection Agency’s crib wood
PLEASE NOTE: emission limits for wood heaters sold after May 15, 2015
EPA INFORMATION
The following additions to your owner’s manual will enable you to achieve optimal emissions
performance from your stove. Important safety tips are also included.
‐ Proper Installation – Please refer to the Installation section of your owner’s manual and follow the
guidelines listed therein for safety and for optimal emissions performance.
Additional information:
Venting Introduction:
Draft: Draft is the force which moves air from the appliance up through the chimney. The amount of
draft in your chimney depends on the length of the chimney, local geography, nearby obstructions and
other factors. Too much draft may cause excessive temperatures in the appliance and may damage the
catalytic combustor. Inadequate draft may cause backpuffing into the room and ‘plugging’ of the
chimney or the catalyst.
Inadequate draft will cause the appliance to leak smoke into the room through appliance and chimney
connector joints.
An uncontrollable burn or excessive temperature indicates excessive draft.
Please be mindful of installation location: Inversion and other air quality issues can arise in valleys or if
unit is installed close to neighboring homes.
This wood stove operates on a natural draft system, in which the chimney system pulls air through the
stove. This unit must be installed in accordance with the following detailed descriptions of venting
techniques; not installing the stove in accordance with the details listed here can result in poor stove
performance, property damage, bodily injury or death. Avoid make‐shift compromises when installing the
venting system. England’s Stove Works is not responsible for any damage incurred
due to a poor or unsafe installation.
Be certain that all aspects of the venting system are installed to the venting manufacturer’s
instructions, particularly the required clearances to combustibles. Also, be certain to use an attic radiation
shield to prevent insulation from contacting a chimney which passes through an attic.
The chimney system is the “engine” which drives a wood stove, so it is imperative for proper unit
function that the venting system be installed exactly as described in the following section.
If questions arise pertaining to the safe installation of the stove, our Technical Support line
(800‐245‐6489) is available. Contact your local code official to be certain your installation meets local and
national fire codes, and if you’re uncertain about how to safely install the stove, we strongly recommend
contacting a local NFI certified installer to perform the installation.
Venting Guidelines:
ALWAYS install vent pipe in strict adherence to the instructions and clearances included with your venting
system.
• DO NOT connect this wood stove to a chimney flue which also serves another appliance.
• DO NOT install a flue pipe damper
or any other restrictive device in the exhaust venting system of this unit.
• USE an approved wall thimble when passing through a wall and a ceiling support/fire stop when passing
through a ceiling.
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• INSTALL three sheet metal screws at every chimney connector joint.
• AVOID excessive horizontal runs and elbows, as both will reduce the draft of the venting system and will
result in poor stove performance.
• INSPECT your venting system often, to be certain it is clear of creosote, fly‐ash and other restrictions.
• CLEAN the venting system as detailed in the maintenance section of this manual.
• ADHERE to the 10‐3‐2 rule regarding chimney terminations.
• INSTALL single wall chimney connector with the male end down to prevent creosote leakage. Follow
double wall chimney connector manufacturer’s instructions regarding proper pipe installation.
WARNING: Venting system surfaces get HOT, and can cause burns if touched. Noncombustible shielding or
guards may be required
The 10‐3‐2 Rule: The chimney system must terminate 3.0 ft above the point where it’s centerline passes
through the roof AND the chimney must terminate 2.0 ft. above part of the dwelling within a 10 ft. radius of
the chimney.
‐ Operation and Maintenance – Please refer to the ‘Operation’ (Operating Instructions) and
Maintenance (including Ash Removal/Disposal) sections of your owner’s manual and follow the
guidelines listed therein for safety and for optimal emissions performance.
Additional Information:
Following the instructions in your owner’s manual for Building a Fire will ensure a proper fire, as well as
helping minimize visible emissions.
More:
‐ Fuel loading and re‐loading: Practical Tips for Building a Fire – See your owner’s manual for information
on loading (and re‐loading) your fuel, as well as for fire‐starting procedures (i.e. ‘Building a Fire’).
‐ Top‐Down Fires: The US EPA recognizes ‘the effectiveness of the top‐down approach for starting fires.’
A good tutorial for this approach may be found at http://woodheat.org/top‐down‐steps.html . When
building top‐down fires, be sure to follow the instructions found in your owner’s manual and contact
our Technical Support if you have any questions.
‐ Fuel Selection: Once your wood‐burning appliance is properly installed, building an effective fire
requires good firewood (using the right wood in the right amount) and good fire building practices. The
following practical steps will help you obtain the best efficiency from your wood stove or fireplace.
Season wood outdoors through the summer for at least 6 months before burning it. Properly seasoned
wood is darker, has cracks in the end grain, and sounds hollow when smacked against another piece of
wood.
Store wood outdoors, stacked neatly off the ground with the top covered.
Burn only dry, well‐seasoned wood that has been split properly.
Start fires with newspaper and dry kindling as discussed earlier in the manual.
Burn hot fires.
To maintain proper airflow, regularly remove ashes from your wood‐burning appliance into a metal
container with a cover and store outdoors.
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Moisture Meter Information
Firewood is ready at 10‐25% moisture content.
Newly‐cut logs can have a moisture content (MC) of 80% or more, depending on species. Since wood
shrinks, and can also split, twist or otherwise change shape as it dries, most wood is dried before being
used. Air drying, or ‘seasoning,’ is the most common method used for cord wood. In most parts of the
United States, the minimum moisture content that can be generally obtained in air drying is about 12
to 15 percent. Most air‐dried material is usually closer to 20 percent moisture content when used
To test your firewood, simply push the pins into the wood and wait for a reading. Remember, don't
just stick the meter into the ends of your firewood. To get the most accurate reading, split the wood
and test the center. The center of the log will contain the most moisture.
How Far Should I Drive Non‐Insulated Pins into Wood?
To full depth if possible. However, at moisture levels below 10%, it is usually sufficient to make good,
positive contact with the wood. At higher levels of moisture and especially if you have a steep gradient,
full penetration is a must.
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‐ WHAT FUELS NOT TO USE:
CAUTION
NEVER USE GASOLINE, GASOLINE‐TYPE LANTERN FUEL, KEROSENE, CHARCOAL LIGHTER FLUID, OR
SIMILAR LIQUIDS TO START OR “FRESHEN UP” A FIRE IN THIS HEATER. KEEP ALL SUCH LIQUIDS WELL
AWAY FROM THE HEATER WHILE IN USE. ADDITIONALLY, NEVER APPLY FIRE‐STARTER TO ANY HOT
SURFACE OR EMBERS IN THE STOVE. DO NOT USE CHEMICALS OR FLUIDS
TO START THE FIRE.
DO NOT BURN FLAMMABLE FLUIDS SUCH AS GASOLINE, NAPHTHA OR ENGINE OIL.
DO NOT BURN GARBAGE; LAWN CLIPPINGS OR YARD WASTE; MATERIALS CONTAINING RUBBER,
INCLUDING TIRES; MATERIALS CONTAINING PLASTIC; WASTE PETROLEUM PRODUCTS, PAINT OR
PAINT THINNERS, OR ASPHALT PRODUCTS; MATERIALS CONTAINING ASBESTOS; CONSTRUCTION OR
DEMOLITION DEBRIS; RAILROAD TIES OR PRESSURE‐TREATED WOOD; MANURE OR ANIMAL
REMAINS; SALT WATER DRIFTWOOD OR OTHER PREVIOUSLY SALT WATER SATURATED MATERIALS;
UNSEASONED WOOD; PAPER PRODUCTS, CARDBOARD, PLYWOOD OR PARTICLEBOARD. THE
PROHIBITION AGAINST BURNING THESE MATERIALS DOES NOT PROHIBIT THE USE OF FIRESTARTERS
MADE FROM PAPER, CARDBOARD, SAWDUST, WAX AND SIMILAR SUBSTANCES FOR THE PURPOSE
OF STARTING A FIRE IN AN AFFECTED WOOD HEATER. BURNING THESE MATERIALS MAY RESULT IN
RELEASE OF TOXIC FUMES OR RENDER THE HEATER INEFFECTIVE AND CAUSE SMOKE.
‐ Safe Wood‐burning Practices
Once your wood‐burning appliance is properly installed, follow these guidelines for safe operation:
Keep all flammable household items—drapes, furniture, newspapers, and books—far away from the
appliance.
Start fires only with newspaper, dry kindling and all natural or organic fire starters. Never start a fire
with gasoline, kerosene, or charcoal starter.
Do not burn wet or green (unseasoned) logs.
Do not use logs made from wax and sawdust in your wood stove – they are made for open hearth
fireplaces. If you use manufactured logs, choose those made from 100 percent compressed sawdust.
Build hot fires. For most appliances, a smoldering fire is not a safe or efficient fire.
Keep the doors of your wood‐burning appliance closed unless loading or stoking the live fire. Harmful
chemicals, like carbon monoxide, can be released into your home.
Regularly remove ashes from your wood‐burning appliance into a metal container with a cover. Store
the container of ashes outdoors on a cement or brick slab (not on a wood deck or near wood). See
ash removal instructions in your owner’s manual.
Keep a fire extinguisher handy.
Remember to check your local air quality forecast before you burn.
‐ Air Controls: SEE YOUR OWNER’S MANUAL for information on the Proper Use of Air Controls (in the
Operation section).
‐ ASH REMOVAL – Follow your Owner’s manual’s instructions regarding removal and disposal of ashes.
‐ REPLACEMENT of parts that are critical to emissions performance – Follow your Owner’s manual’s
instructions regarding replacement of gaskets and other parts that are critical to emissions
performance.
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Remember: “This wood heater needs periodic inspection and repair for proper operation. It is against federal
regulations to operate this wood heater in a manner inconsistent with operating instructions in this manual.”
More: Burner Tubes – To replace a tube, first be sure that you order the correct tube you need to replace.
Then using a 5/16” socket or open end wrench, remove the screw located on the left side of the tube. Be sure
to keep the screw. Push the tube to the right then remove the tube (pulling the tube back to the left after that
side has been removed from the hole). To replace, reverse the above procedure…make sure to install the
tubes in the correct order. (Front to Back)
‐ Smoke Detectors
England’s Stove Works, Inc. highly recommends the use of smoke detectors in every room of the house.
However, locating a smoke detector directly above this unit can result in nuisance alarms.
CAUTION
This unit is meant to operate only with door closed. Smoke spillage and an inefficient, lazy burn will result
from attempting to operate the stove with the door open.
Additionally, using prohibited fuels can create an unsafe situation and can also generate excess carbon
monoxide. Carbon monoxide is an odorless, colorless gas which can be deadly.
The use of a carbon monoxide detector is strongly recommended.
‐ Compliance: “This non‐catalytic wood heater meets the 2015 U.S. Environmental Protection Agency’s
crib wood emission limits for wood heaters sold after May 15, 2015.”
‐ Tamper Warning: “This wood heater has a manufacturer‐set minimum low burn rate that must not be
altered. It is against federal regulations to alter this setting or otherwise operate this wood heater in a
manner inconsistent with operating instructions in this manual.”
‐ Warranty: See your Owner’s manual for a Warranty Registration instruction page, as well as
instructions for warranty procedures. For parts, warranty replacement procedures may be found at our
parts store site: www.store.heatredefined.com
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