Outline of Stringbeans/Polebeans

Name of crop: String beans, Pole beans, Green beans

Scientific name: Phaseolus vulgaris

Family name:
Place of origin:
Botanical description
Varieties:
Bush types, Pole beans

Climatic and soil requirement:

Common beans are warm-
season crops and should be
planted after all danger of frost
has passed and the soil has
warmed. Beans will grow best at
soil temperatures between 15.5
and 29°C (60–85°F) and are
sensitive to cold temperatures and
frosts. Beans will grow best in a
fertile, well-draining soil with a
pH between 6.0 and 6.75 Beans
will perform best in full sunlight.

Cultural practices management:

A. Land preparation
Pick a sunny spot for your crop. Green beans need plenty of sunlight to grow properly, so
try to choose an area of your garden that receives full sun for your planting site. Since
green beans do not do well in heavily- moist soil, you should avoid shaded locations.
Amend the soil if needed.
B. Preparation of planting materials

C. Planting distance
When growing green beans, plant spacing varies, depending on depth of soil
preparation and variety:
A. If you’re growing green beans in a single-dug bed (soil dug or tilled to 1
shovel depth, 8-10”—20-25 cm)

Plant Bush Beans 1” (2.5 cm) deep, 2-4” (5-10 cm) apart, in rows 18”
(0.5 m) apart.

Plant Pole Beans 1” (2.5 cm) deep, 2-3” (5-8 cm) apart, in rows 3’
(1 m) apart.
 B. If you’re growing green beans in a deep-dug or raised garden bed (soil
prepared to a depth of 20-24”--50-60 cm)

Plant Bush Beans 1” (2.5 cm) deep on 8” (20 cm) hexagonal centers (seeds 8”—20
cm) apart in all directions within the bed).
Plant Pole Beans 1” (2.5 cm) deep, 4” (10 cm) apart, in a row along the base of a
trellis.

D. Thinning or replanting
According to my research, no thinning is necessary for pole beans but bush beans (other
variety of pole beans), there’s a need of thinning. Whn bush beans are three inches tall,
thin to one plant every 4 inches. Thinning plants means selectively removing seedlings. If
the plants are growing too closer together, problems may arise. The root systems will end
up growing into each other. When plants have to battle each other for water and nutrients,
they end up becoming stressed and rarely grow to full size or produce green beans. To
solve this problem, seedlings are thinned to create adequate space beteen the plants.
Thinning also allows you to selectively remove under-performing seedlings. To thin the
plants, simply pull the seedlings to be removed out by the roots and toss them in your
compost pile.
E. Fertilizer management
Green bean plants can be fertilized once a month throughout the growing season, if so
desired. A 10-10-10 fertilizer will usually do the job nicely. Most granular fertilizers are
applied at 11/2 pounds per 100 square feet. Apply the granules according to the
manufacturer’s instructions. They should be applied at the edges of the rows and not
thrown directly on the plants themselves. Once a granular fertilizer is applied, water it in
well. If you choose water soluble type fertilizer, apply it according to the manufacturer’s
instruction. A hose and sprayer is convenient for water soluble fertilizer
F. Water management
When watering the string beans, try to avoid watering the tops of the plants. Instead, focus
your efforts on the root systems. This will allow the plants to absorb the most moisture.
You should water in the early morning hours. This lets the mid-day sun evaporate any
unused water. If water sits on the tops of the plants for extended period of time, it may
encourage mildew to develop on the leaves and pods. If no rain falls, a deep soak once a
week should be sufficient. If the plants does not receive adequate water, it may cause the
blossom to drop off the plant. No blossom means no green beans, so an adequate water
supply is necessary for the plants to thrive.

G. Pests and their control

Pests Control
1. Armyworms Organic methods of controlling armyworms include biological
control by natural enemies which parasitize the larvae and the
application of Bacillus thuringiensis;

2. Corn earworm Monitor plants for eggs and young larvae and also natural enemies
that could be damaged by chemicals; Bacillus thuringiensis or
 Entrust SC may be applied to control insects on organically grown
plants.
3. Cutworms Remove all plant residue from soil after harvest or at least two weeks
before planting, this is especially important if the previous crop was
another host such as alfalfa, beans or a leguminous cover crop;
plastic or foil collars fitted around plant stems to cover the bottom 3
inches above the soil line and extending a couple of inches into the
soil can prevent larvae severing plants;
4. Leafminers Check transplants for signs of leafminer damage prior to
planting; remove plants from soil immediately after
harvest; only use insecticides when leafminer damage has
been identified as unnecessary spraying will also reduce
populations of their natural enemies

5. Loopers (Cabbage Looper populations are usually held in check by natural enemies; if
looper, Alfalfa they do become problematic larvae can be hand-picked from the
looper) plants; an organically acceptable control method is the application of
Bacillus thuringiensis which effectively kills younger larvae;
chemical sprays may damage populations of natural enemies and
should and should be selected carefully.

H. Trellishing
Pole beans should be provided with a pole or trellis to climb on to support the weight
of the pods and allow light to penetrate to all parts of the plant, helping to prevent disease.
Bean poles should have a rough surface to help the plant to grip and should be 1.8–2.1 m
(6–7 ft) long. Three or four poles can be used to form a tripod onto which the plants can
be trained. Bean trellises can be constructed easily using posts (or a tripod arrangement of
poles), wire and twine. Position a post at either end of the area in which you wish to plant
a row of beans and connect with two lengths of wire. The first wire should be
approximately 13 cm (5 in) from the ground, and the second 1.5–1.8 m (5–6 ft) from the
ground. Finally, use the twine to create a V-shaped trellis by tying the twine to the bottom
wire, bringing it up to the top wire and looping it back down around the bottom wire.
Continue to zigzag the string all the way along the wires to the second support before
tying the twine off. A rough textured twine is best as it will encourage the plant to climb
and twine around it. Pinch back the growing tips of the plants once they reach the top
support to encourage the plant to branch.
I. Harvesting: 55-65 days
Beans are generally ready for harvest approximately two weeks after bloom. The beans
should be harvested just before the seeds are mature and before they form bumps on the
pod. The pods should be firm and snap when they are bent. Pick beans every 2–3 days to
 ensure the plants remain productive. Pinch beans rather than pulling to avoid damaging
the plant. Cut pole beans from the plant using scissors.
J. Postharvest and practice
Green beans intended for distant fresh markets should be immediately cooled after
harvest. The placement of field-warm beans and peas in a refrigerated space, known as
cooling, is recommended only as a last resort.

Nutritional content:
Nutritional value per 100 g (3.5 oz)

131 kJ (31 kcal) 33 μg

Energy
(15%)
Carbohydrates 6.97 g
Vitamin C 12.2 mg

Dietary fiber 2.7 g

(14%)
Vitamin K 14.4 μg
Fat 0.22 g

1.83 g
Minerals
Protein
(4%)
Vitamins Calcium 37 mg
(4%) (8%)
Vitamin A equiv. 35 μg Iron 1.03 mg
(7%) (7%)
Thiamine (B1) 0.082 mg Magnesium 25 mg
(9%) (10%)
Riboflavin (B2) 0.104 mg Manganese 0.216 mg

(5%) (5%)
Niacin (B3) 0.734 mg Phosphorus 38 mg

Pantothenic (5%) (4%)

0.225 mg Potassium 211 mg
acid (B5)
(11%) (3%)
Vitamin B6 0.141 mg Zinc 0.24 mg

Folate (B9) (8%)

References: http://www.grow-it-organically.com/growing-green-beans.html
http://india.thebeehive.org/content/470/1179
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Green_bean