TEDI - International Interdisciplinary Journal of Young

Scientists from the Faculty of Textile Technology

Croatian Traditional Herbal Dyes For Textile Dyeing

Ana Sutlović, Đurđica Parac-Osterman, Vedran Đurašević*

*University of Zagreb, Faculty of Textile Technology, Department for Textile Chemistry and Ecology,
Zagreb, Croatia (Tel: ++38514877365, e-mail: ana.sutlovic@ttf.hr)

Abstract: Textiles, namely protein fibers, in continental part of central Europe have been traditionally dyed
by natural dyes. In the process textile materials were pre or after treated by metal salts – mordants (usually:
KAl(SO4)2·12H2O, SnCl2·2H2O, FeSO4·7H2O, CuSO4·5H2O). Most represented active substances in herbal
extracts are flavonoid derivatives, which by complexing with metal ions constitute colored complexes.
Depending on herb species and mordant applied, a wide palette of colors is available. Good fastness to
processes of textile washing and care implicate to the stability of formed metal complexes.

1. NATURAL DYESTUFF DYEING

Croatia is a country of exceptionally rich ethnographic

heritage, best seen in colorful national costumes. Colorful
folklore elements of national costumes in specific region
were formed using the unity of shapes and color hues (fig. 1).
A growing interest in natural dyes application is based on not
just the system of national heritage protection and
multifunctional properties derived. This interest is found in
the fact that a garment dyed by natural dyes holds an
alternative economical, touristic as well as humanly,
ecological significance. In continental part of Croatia, until
the discovery of synthetic dyes, protein fibers were usually
dyed by natural dyes [1]. Statistical analysis of military
government of “Vojna krajina” data of 19th century revealed
Fig. 1 “Ćilim” from Slavonija, second half of the 19th
authors amazement by the fact that natural dyes and dyed
century. Exhibit EMZ 14718. “Ćilim” reflects traditional
textiles were obtained from a arduous and slow process. At
colour palette of era when woolen objects were dyed at home
the same time by the second half of 18th century, this tradition
and all dyes were of nature [2].
has been long abandoned in other European countries, while
19th century was marked by production of synthetic dyes and
Beginning of 21st century brings a step forward-intensively
synthesis of new dyes [2].
pointing to the importance of human ecology, academic
However, the end of 20th century was marked by such terms discipline that Human ecology researches the interaction of
like sustainable development and changes in resources use, people and human communities with their surroundings and
investments, technical development, as well as institutional natural life.
changes in mutual harmony, which would assure fulfillment
of needs of present and future generations concerns This new discipline observes human communities and
relationship among humans and their natural, sociological population exclusively as parts of an eco-system on Earth,
and artificial surrounding habitat. often not consistent to classical sociological studies and

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research [3, 4]. Definition of natural dyes, as given by the
Society of Dyers and Colorists is in accordance to the idea of
human ecology theory implying to “unity and harmony with
nature”. According to it, natural dyes are dyes and pigments
obtained from animal or herbal sources, acquired by using no
or minimal chemical treatments [5].

2. DIVISION OF NATURAL DYES

Natural dyes can be classified according to dyeing properties,

chemical structure, origin (animal, herbal, mineral), hue or
application area (food industry, pharmaceutical industry,
textile industry etc.) (Fig. 2) [6-9].

L. Rubia L . Murex brandaris

L. Dactylopius coccus
tinctorum and Murex trunculus
Fig. 2 Exaples of natural dyes origins [7]

2.1. Division of natural dyes according to dyeing properties

In regards to dyeing properties, most natural dyes can be Fig. 4 Woman from Konavle, around 1950. Young woman in
sorted into group of mordant dyes, some can be classified as ornamented yellow fringes shirt. Yellow color was in
vat, while a small number of natural dyes belong to groups of Dalmatia obtained from pomegranate fruit or from wild apple
direct and basic dyes [5-7]. tree bark [2]

Complexing with metal salts, mordant dyes give different Second important group of natural textile dyes are in water
colorations, while polygenetic properties are prescribed to insoluble vat dyes, which have to be transformed into soluble
them. Aluminum, copper, ferrite and tin salts are most form with the addition of reduction agent and alkali. Most
usually used mordants. These dyes are usually used to dye commonly known representatives of this group are indigo
protein fibers, with: mordant treatment of fibers (prior to (fig. 5) and purpur 6,6'-dibromindigo dye obtained from
dyeing), mordant treatment carried out in the process of murex sea snail (Murexbrandaris) and lumpy (Murex
dyeing or after mordant treatment carried out after the dyeing trunculus) [7, 16-19].
process has been carried out.
Usually used source of dyes are Rubia tinctorum cochineal
bug (Dactylopius coccus), as well as herbs from which most
widely used mordant dyes are obtained – flavonoid dyes (fig.
3, 4) [10-15].

Fig. 5 “Rekla” is woman coat from Prkovci (Slavonija), from

the beginning of the 20th century. Exhibit EMZ 20182.
“Rekla”-s were made out of wool and dyed by indigo [2]

Fig. 3 Typical hue palette of flavonoid dyes Among most important natural direct dyes are curcuma and
yellow roots (Curcuma long, ingredient of curry) and bark or
roots of common Berberis vulgaris [7, 20, 21].

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2.2. Division of natural dyes according to chemical ƒ Yellow color hues
constitution Nyctanthes arbor-tristis (Tree of Sorrow, C.I. Natural Yellow
Division of natural dyes according to chemical constitution is 19) dye is extracted from flower (Al as mordant)
in accordance to botanical nomenclature [7-9]. Chamaemelum recutica (Chamomile, C.I. Natural Yellow 1)
dye is extracted from flowers and leaves (Sn, Al as mordants)
2.3. Division of natural dyes according to color hue Gardenia jasminoides (Jasmine, C.I. Natural Yellow 6) dye
is extracted from fruit (Sn, Al as mordants)
While classifying natural dyes according to color hue, Crocus sativus (Saffron, C.I. Natural Yellow 6) dye is
mordant used during the dyeing process should be regarded. extracted from anthers (Al as mordant)
Mediation on mordant type leads to obtaining different color Calendula officinalis (Marygold, C.I. Natural Yellow 27) dye
hues [1].Palette of colors was obtained on woolen samples is extracted from flower (Al as mordant)
(coloristic parameters and fastness to washing) dyed by Punica granatum (Pomegranate, C.I. Natural Yellow) dye is
watery herbal extracts. Selection of herbs and mordants was extracted from fruit scales (Al as mordant)
guided by traditional process of dyeing with natural dyes, Fraxinus excelsior (Ashtree, C.I. Natural Yellow 10) dye is
typical to continental Croatia (tab. 1) [1, 2]. extracted from bark (Sn, Al as mordants)
Table 1 Woolen samples dyed byextracts of selected herbs

Colouristic parameters Washing

Herb / Mordant
L* C* h a* b* fastness
49,22 23,90 65,84 9,78 21,81 4/4
Sicilian Sumac / FeSO 4⋅7H 2O

45,03 23,19 72,69 6,90 22,14 4/4

Vine / FeSO 4⋅7H 2O

40,70 29,62 73,57 8,38 28,41 4/4

Oak / KAl(SO 4)2⋅12H 2O

32,42 13,2 89,56 0,10 13,20 4/4

Walnut-Tree / FeSO 4⋅7H 2O

42,26 12,74 88,12 0,42 12,73 4/4

Ashtree / FeSO 4⋅7H 2O

69,38 35,97 94,52 -2,83 35,86 4/4

Tree of Sorrow / KAl(SO 4)2⋅12H 2O

72,41 46,31 91,93 1,56 46,29 4/4

Chamomile / KAl(SO 4)2⋅12H 2O

70,98 63,38 81,93 8,90 62,76 4/4

Jasmine / KAl(SO 4)2⋅12H 2O

59,72 40,15 81,99 5,60 39,76 4/4

Saffron / KAl(SO 4)2⋅12H 2O

49,92 33,43 77,81 7,06 32,68 4/4

Pomegranate / KAl(SO 4)2⋅12H 2O

51,44 31,88 77,43 6,94 31,11 4/4

Marygold / KAl(SO 4)2⋅12H 2O

47,53 24,73 46,77 16,94 18,02 3/4

Juniper / CuSO 4⋅5H 2O

42,37 26,30 43,23 19,16 18,01 3/4

Madder / KAl(SO 4)2⋅12H 2O

53,21 21,24 250,21 -7,19 -19,99 4/3

Elder / CuSO 4⋅5H 2O

41,25 28,87 303,18 15,80 -24,16 3/4

Elder / CuSO 4⋅5H 2O

23,79 3,67 57,09 1,99 3,08 4/4

Oak / FeSO 4⋅7H 2O

19,57 5,51 46,11 3,82 3,97 4/4

Pomegranate / FeSO 4⋅7H 2O

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ƒ Green color hues Flavonoids are found in red wine, chocolate, fruit, vegetables
Fraxinus excelsior (Ashtree) dye is extracted from bark (Fe and various other plants and herbs. Today, more then 6500
as mordant) different flavonoids have been identified [22-25]. Most
Juglans regia L. (Walnut-Tree) dye is extracted from green commonly used dyeing method uses a pretreatment process
scales or leaves (Fe as mordant) in which wool is mordanted in watery solution of metal salts,
ƒ Red color hues followed by a process of dyeing in the solution of watery
extracted natural dyes [1, 7, 22-25]. Depending on chemical
Juniperus Communis (Juniper) dye is extracted from sprouts
structure and chemical-morphological characteristics of the
(Al, Cu as mordants)
fibers being dyed by flavonoid dyes, following chemical
Rubia tinctorum (Madder, C.I. Natural Red 8) dye is
bond are formed: hydrogen bonds are formed among
extracted from roots (Al as mordants)
polyphenole hydroxyl groups with free amino and amid
ƒ Blue color hues groups of the protein fiber; ionic bonds are formed [25-31].
Juniperus Communis (Juniper) dye is extracted from berries
(Cu as mordant)
Smbucus Nigra (Elder) dye is extracted from berries (Cu as
mordant)
ƒ Purple color hues
Rubia tinctorum (Madder) dye is extracted from roots (Cu as
mordant)
Smbucus Nigra (Elder) dye is extracted from berries (Al, Cu
as mordants)
ƒ Brown color hues
Ruhus coriaria (Sicilian Sumac, C.I. Natural Brown 6) dye is
extracted from leaves (Fe as mordant)
Vitis vinifera (Vine) dye is extracted from leaves (Fe as
mordant)
Quercus Aegilops (Oak) dye is extracted from bark (Al as
mordant)
Picea abies (Spruce) dye is extracted from sprouts (Al, Fe as Fig. 7 Until the end of 19th century in Croatia wool and silk
mordant) were dyed with “materials” of herbal origin: leaves, bark,
ƒ Black color hues roots and different herbal seeds [2]
Quercus Aegilops (Oak) dye is extracted from bark (Fe as
mordant) Although, water is the most usual solvent used to prepare
Rubus fruticosus (Bramble) dye is extracted from fruit (Fe as natural extract it is being substituted with another solvent
mordant) (ethanol, methanol) in the aim of increasing the overall
Punica granatum (Pomegranate) dye is extracted from fruit amount of the extract, isolation of certain extract components
scales (Fe as mordant) or simply to remove unwanted impurities such as waxes and
lipids from watery extracts. According to many researchers,
Harmony of color hues obtained from nature enriches textile
overall amount of can be increased in alkali media. However,
the material and gives it a new dimension, warmth and
selectivity of certain components is lost [32-36].
quality (fig. 6).

4. CONCLUSION

Regardless of rich tradition, beauty of the hues, positive

effect on health, natural dyes are still competing for their
place under the sun. According to literature references, many
technologists and scientists deal with the issues and
perspectives of applying natural dyes on industrial level.
They point out numerous disadvantages brought about by
modern industry: unavailability of resources, limited number
Fig. 6 „Ćilim” from Bačka, 19th century; Exhibit EMZ 14119. of dyes, dye exhaustion, complex processes, coloration
Ćilim were dyed with natural vegetable dyes [2] repeatability, selection of fibers, dye mixture issues, lack of
standardization, unacceptable dye fixation degree, water
3. FLAVONOID DYES pollution by heavy metals and organic compounds. Other
important thing, which should never be neglected, is that
The definition of dyeing with natural dyes in Croatia refers to natural dyes do not present a substitution for synthetic dyes.
flavonoids. Flavonoids and flavonoid derivatives are most Natural dyes have a reserved place on the market; their
represented compounds in watery herbal extracts (fig. 7). development is based on tradition, creativity, fashion,

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