Review of Anthropology of The Self: The Individual in Cultural Perspective
Review of Anthropology of The Self: The Individual in Cultural Perspective
Review of Anthropology of The Self: The Individual in Cultural Perspective
net/publication/229661471
CITATION READS
1 6,400
1 author:
Geoffrey White
University of Hawaiʻi at Mānoa
74 PUBLICATIONS 1,820 CITATIONS
SEE PROFILE
All content following this page was uploaded by Geoffrey White on 14 February 2017.
reviews 215
though for this purpose, the omission of Islam is a "twelve kimono" style worn by the commoner prin-
serious gap. If the hard-won insights of anthropo- cess in the recent royal wedding.
logical studies of the person are to be brought into Three contributions on Nigeria present redefini-
these forms of teaching-a combination that is tions and reassertionsof collective identities in con-
sorely needed-one can only hope that they will texts of rapid change. Renne shows how the con-
work to unsettle rather than reinforce established tinuation of cloth and garment display in weddings
ideas about timeless differences in culture and per- expresses the continuity of the Bunu community in
son. the face of changes, such as growing economic
gaps between older and younger urban women.
Eicher and Erekosima lay out a process of appro-
Dress and Ethnicity: Change Across Space priation and authentificationof foreign trade goods
and Time. JOANNE B. EICHER,ed. Oxford: in Kalabari material culture, showing how Indian
madras cloth could "become Kalabari." In Sum-
Berg, 1995. xiv + 316 pp., illustrations, maps,
photographs, notes, references, index. berg's essay on the Ijo groups of the Niger Delta, of
which Kalabariis one, dress and language are dif-
ferentiating mechanisms between closely related
HUDITAMUSTAFA
groups.
HarvardUniversity Two authors on Southern Africa present dress as
This collection provides several rich case studies a site for resolution between conflicting pressures.
that address the neglected topic of the expression of In Botswana, Durham argues, Herero view their
ethnic identity through dress. In the introduction Victorian-styledress as a sign of their cosmopolitan-
Eicheremphasizes that "ethnic dress," like the con- ism, which is also evidenced in their current en-
cept of ethnicity, appears to "have a clear referent. gagement with the other world of the Botswana na-
Yet, when examined closely, its use has varied tion-state. Behrman shows how a small minority of
widely" (p. 1). Eicherdefines dress in terms of items colored women in Swaziland become a site of cul-
and modifications "that capture the past ... dis- tural ambivalence toward new gender conflicts
played to signify cultural heritage" (p. 299). My over women's work opportunities or problematic
reading of the volume is that it interrogatesthe rela- morality.
tionship between usages of the past and the con- The contributions that focus on the United States
structionof ethnic identity. demonstrate that dress is a tool of cultural affirma-
The contributions provide rich evidence for the tion in contexts of ethnic domination. For African
contingency of authenticity and the invention of Americans, Griebel provides evidence for the West
tradition. Many focus on women's dress with atten- African origin of the headwrap. She argues that its
tion to intergenerational relationships (Bridgwood, revival by women in the 1970s reflects an identifi-
Griebel, Renne, Sumberg, Suga) or to national iden- cation not only with Africanancestors but also with
tities (Behrman, Durham, Griebel, Lentz, Martinez, slave forebears. Palestinian Americans, according
Seng and Wass, Suga). Several also examine men's to Seng and Wass, consciously revive and recreate
dress (Chapman, Eicher and Erekosima, Lentz, embroidered wedding dresses as symbols of land
Lynch, Sumberg, Welters). Much of the dress is spe- and custom. Lynch claims that Hmong youth mix
cific to special events such as weddings (Bridg- items from different subgroups to assert a unified
wood, Renne, Seng and Wass, Suga), funerals Hmong identity in contexts of exile and discrimina-
(Eicher and Erekosima, Sumberg), and holidays tion. Lentz situates dress in a political economy of
(Lynch). migration, and of regional and ethnic inequality in
Some essays provide fuller socioeconomic analy- Ecuador. Indigenous persons may use Western
ses than others (Behrman, Chapman, Durham, dress to contest their social position, but at other
Eicher and Erekosima, Lentz, Renne). Malcolm times they use Indian dress to affirm their ethnic
Chapman compares the "freezing of the frame" of pride.
tradition in two Celtic communities. He argues that Eicherconcludes by writing that the volume side-
changing regional and metropolitan relations in the steps the debates on ethnicity as "primordialor cir-
late 18th century explain why and when the kilt, cumstantial," and relies on dress as a "visible mark
never a popular dress, was romanticized and pro- of ethnicity" (p. 301). The diversity of the uses and
moted by outsiders as traditional Highland Scottish interpretations of dress and styles, however, sug-
dress. In contrast, the coiffe, a sign of upward mo- gests that the "visibility"of dress is not a "fact,"but
bility and modernity to Bretons,was taken as a sym- is indeed contingent on historical moment, on com-
bol of ruralfolk tradition by Parisian intellectuals in munity, regional, and national relations, on context
the late 19th century. The Greek study includes of use, and on intracommunitydifferentiation.Thus
multiple interpretations of dress styles that may Eicher'scontrast between ethnic dress (which high-
mark regions, rural origins, and linguistic and cul- lights shared pasts and boundaries between inside
tural groups, depending on the context. The essays and outside) and contemporary world fashions of
on naked divers and the Japanese royal wedding Western pants and skirts (which are cosmopolitan
present two cases of how marginal groups-naked and have been adopted into everyday dress around
women divers and the royal household-are foci the world [pp. 300-301]) seems reductive com-
for nostalgia for the real, old Japan. Divers, once pared to the substantive contributions. Further-
thought to be of Korean origin, now find their vil- more, these Western styles are never interrogated
lages being promoted as tourist sites for those seek- for their ethnic statements in their contexts of origin,
ing authenticity. Young brides, seeking to reclaim nor for the projects of colonial rule, missionization,
lost traditions, have revived the old-fashioned and commerce that they accompanied. In fact, this