Maintenance and Repair of Fuel Suppply, Lubrication and Cooling System Fuel Pump Testing
Maintenance and Repair of Fuel Suppply, Lubrication and Cooling System Fuel Pump Testing
Maintenance and Repair of Fuel Suppply, Lubrication and Cooling System Fuel Pump Testing
Maintenance of Carburettor
The carburettor should be cleaned time to time in order to avoid blocking of the jets and
passages. For this purpose, it is preferable to use compressed air. Never use wire for cleaning
the jets. Also check periodically for tightness of flange securing nuts, starter fixing screws,
main jet starter jet and pilot jet. Make sure that there is no side-play in the throttle spindle.
Service Points
Make sure that:
1. Gasket between the fixing flanges is not damaged.
2. Spraying nozzle is not pulled out, it is press fitted.
3. Float toggle is not in an inverted position-
4. Pilot air bleed is not blocked.
5. The float is not damaged.
6. Volume control screw taper is not damaged-
7. Jets and passages are not leaking, sticking or worn.
8. Needle valve is not leaking sticking or worn-
9. Float chamber vent is not blocked.
10. Acceleration pump diaphragm is not porous or assembled incorrectly.
11. Pilot jet seating fully.
12. All jets and needle valve are screwed tightly.
13. All gaskets and washers are placed properly. They are not leaking.
14. Filter is cleaned properly every 800 km.
15. Acceleration pump is adjusted and cleaned.
16. Gaskets are changed while opening the carburettor.
Carburetor service:
When adjustments do not correct a carburetor problem, the carburetor must be removed to be
cleaned, inspected and rebuilt or replaced. It would be impossible (and worthless) for this book
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to cover the disassembly and overhaul of all of the carburetors a technician may need to
service.
It is always wise to disconnect the negative cable at the battery before removing a carburetor.
Before disconnecting fuel lines, make sure you have planned to have something available to
plug the line to prevent gasoline spills. Also, carefully lift the carburetor up and away from the
engine. It will have gasoline in it. Keeping it up will prevent spills. The carburetor may also
have coolant hoses connected to it. These hoses should also be plugged after they are removed.
It is a good idea to drain the coolant from the hoses before totally disconnecting them. Also, as
you disconnect vacuum hoses from the carburetor, mark them so you can reinstall them in the
same place when putting the carburetor back on. If a spacer is positioned between the
carburetor and the intake manifold, replace it with a new one. Also, make sure the sealing
surface of the intake manifold is clean and free of nicks.
During most carburetor overhaul procedures, a carburetor kit is installed. This kit usually
includes all the gaskets and fiber washers, needle valve and seat, accelerator pump plunger, and
other minor parts.
Place all the metal carburetor parts in an approved carburetor cleaner. Do not place solenoids,
floats, choke covers and springs, gaskets, filters, O-rings, diaphragms, plastic parts, or fiber
washers in carburetor cleaner. Some nylon bushings such as throttle shaft bushings may be
placed in carburetor cleaner for a short time. The carburetor castings should be completely
immersed in the cleaning solution and left in the solution until they are clean. Rinse the
carburetor components in hot water or solvent after they are removed from the cleaner. Always
use the rinsing agent recommended by the cleaner manufacturer. After the carburetor
components are rinsed, blow them completely dry with compressed air.
Make sure all adjustments are made to the internal parts of the carburetor before reinstalling it
on the intake manifold. Tighten all bolts and screws to the specified tightness, and use new
gaskets and seals. When tightening the carburetor to the intake manifold, make sure you tighten
the bolts evenly. It is best to stagger the tightening sequence. Doing this will prevent carburetor
base warpage and will allow for a good seal.
Diesel fuel injection systems must accomplish five particular functions: meter, inject,
time, atomize, and create pressure. Out of this calibration or metering and Phase setting
are the important part of servicing.
• Calibration or Metering--Accurate metering or measuring of the fuel means that, for
the same fuel control setting, the same quantity of fuel must be delivered to each
cylinder for each power stroke of the engine. Only in this way can the engine operate
at uniform speed with uniform power output. Smooth engine operation and an even
distribution of the load between the cylinders depend upon the same volume of fuel
being admitted to a particular cylinder each time it fires and upon equal volumes of
fuel being delivered to all cylinders of the engine. This can be checked with FIP
Calibrating equipment and the quantity is adjusted by turning the body of the
plunger, which changes the initial position of helical grove.
• Phase setting or Timing--In addition to measuring the amount of fuel injected, the
system must properly time injection to ensure efficient combustion so that
maximum energy can be obtained from the fuel. When the fuel is injected too
early in the cycle, ignition may be delayed because the temperature of the air at
this point is not high enough. An excessive delay, on the other hand, gives rough
and noisy operation of the engine. It also permits some fuel to be lost due to the
wetting of the cylinder walls and piston head. This in turn results in poor fuel
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economy, high exhaust gas temperature, and smoke in the exhaust. When fuel is
injected too late in the cycle, all the fuel will not be burned until the piston has
traveled well past top center. When this happens, the engine does not develop
enough power, the exhaust is smoky, and fuel consumption is high. In inline jerk
pump system the phase setting is done by adjusting the tappet which operates the
plungers of the FIP.
Activating Self-Diagnosis:
Warm the engine to operating temperature. This will ensure that the system has the proper
conditions to enter closed ioop operation. Shut off the engine and turn the ignition key to on or
run. The recommended method of reading codes on OBD I and OBD II equipped vehicles is to
use a scan tool.
Reading Codes: If the output is a digital display, simply read the number and compare it with
the chart in the service manual. If the output is flashed from the dashboard MIL or ECU
mounted LED lamp, count how many flashes occur between each pause. Write down the
number flashed and compare it to the service manual. If an analogue meter is used, count the
number of needle deflections between pauses. Write down the number and compare it to the
chart in the service manual. Each system may vary. The service manual will provide the
instructions for each make and model of vehicle.
Interpreting Trouble Codes: When looking up trouble codes in the service manual, start from
the lowest number stored and work up. If multiple codes were stored, you can often eliminate
one or more codes by using this method. If you had codes 15 and 45 stored in the ECU, look up
code 15 first and then 45.
OBD I codes will be two digit numbers and each commands with a particular problem listed in
the service manual. OBD II codes are three digit numbers with an alphanumeric designator.
The alphanumeric designator indicates in what system the problem is located and whether the
code is SAE or manufacturer specific. The first digit in the three number codes indicates the
nature of the code. The last two digits of the number indicate the specific fault.
Clearing Trouble Codes: To clear or remove the trouble codes from an OBD I computer
system, you must usually disconnect the battery or the fuse to the computer. Disconnect them
for about 10 seconds. To clear the codes on vehicles with OBD II system, use a scan tool.
Checking Injector Operation: Checking the fuel injectors or a multi-point system needs time
and special tools for testing. A defective fuel injector on a multi-point system may cause an
engine miss, dieseling, and flooding. An oscilloscope can detect an injector that is only
partially defective. An injector balance test is another method for detecting bad fuel injector.
ENGINE SENSOR SERVICE: Most EFI engine sensors can be tested with self- diagnosis, a
scan tool, or a special tester/analyzer. However, an engine sensor can also be tested with a
digital meter or sometimes a test light. Refer to the service manual for specific details.
Throttle Position Sensor Service
Oxygen Sensor Service
Temperature Sensor Service
Servicing Other EFI Sensors
Two of the most common additive packages are the dispersants and detergents. The dispersants
are chemical additive packages that disperse sludge, car bon, and other deposits in the oil, and
the detergents displace gum deposits from within the engine interior. Other additives—the
oxidation inhibitors—prevent oxidation of the oil when the engine is running continually at
elevated operating temperatures. Oxidation of the lube oil leads to viscosity increases and
deposits and corrosion. The oxidation inhibitors also prevent formation of varnish and sludge.
Anti-wear and extreme pressure additives are used to form a protective film on metal surfaces.
Viscosity improvers and wear inhibitors prevent foaming of the oil by the use of silicone
compounds and also act as friction modifiers.
1. Additives in a typical can of lube oil 2. Contents of a fully formulated lube oil.
The figure 1 illustrates a typical additive package for heavy duty high speed diesel engine oils.
Figure2 illustrates the contents of a fully formulated quart of oil. Note that the base stock crude
oil accounts for less than 1%, the additive package for 5% to 10%, the VI (viscosity index
improver) for 10% to 20%, and the various inhibitors for 75% to 80%.
Synthetic Lube Oils
The term synthetic means that it is a manufactured product and not refined from a naturally
occurring substance, as engine oil (petroleum base) is refined from crude oil. Synthetic oil is
processed from several different base stocks using several different methods.
According to the American Petroleum Institute, engine oil is classified into groups as follows.
Group I - Mineral, nonsynthetic, base oil with few if any additives.
This type of oil is suitable for light lubricating needs and rust protection and is not to be used in
an engine.
Group II - Mineral oils with quality additive packages.
Most of the conventional engine oils are Group II.
Group III - Hydrogenated (hydroisomerized) synthetic compounds commonly referred to as
hydrowaxes or hydrocracked oil.
This is the lowest cost of synthetic engine oils. Castrol Syntec is a Group III oil.
Group IV - Synthetic oils made from mineral oil and monomolecular oil called polyalpholefm
or POA.
Mobil 1 is an example of a Group IV synthetic oil.
Group V—Nonmineral sources such as alcohol from corn called diesters or polyolesters.
Red Line synthetic oil is an example of a Group V oil.
Some types of synthetic oil are not compatible with other types. Some synthetic oils are mixed
with petroleum base engine oils, but these must be labeled as a blend.
The major advantage of using synthetic engine oil is in its ability to remain fluid at very low
temperatures. This characteristic of synthetic oil makes it popular in colder climates where
cold-engine cranking is important. The major disadvantage is cost. The cost of synthetic engine
oils can be four to five times the cost of petroleum-based engine oils.
Coolant is a mixture of antifreeze and water. Water is able to absorb more heat per gallon than
any other liquid coolant. Under standard conditions, water boils at 212°F (100°C) and freezes
at 32°F (0°C). When water freezes, it decreases in volume by about 9%. The expansion of the
freezing water can easily crack engine blocks, cylinder heads, and radiators. All manufacturers
recommend the use of ethylene glycol-based antifreeze mixtures for protection against this
problem.
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A curve depicting freezing point as compared with the percentage of antifreeze mixture is
shown in Figure. It should be noted that the freezing point increases as the antifreeze
concentration is increased above 60%. The normal mixture is 50% antifreeze and 50% water.
Ethylene glycol antifreezes contain anticorrosion additives, rust inhibitors, and water pump
lubricants.
At the maximum level of protection, an ethylene glycol concentration of 60% will absorb about
85% as much heat as will water. Ethylene glycol-based antifreeze also has a higher boiling
point than water. If the coolant boils, it vaporizes and does not act as a cooling agent because it
is not in liquid form and in contact with the cooling surfaces. All coolants have rust and
corrosion inhibitors to help protect the metals in the engine and cooling systems. Most
conventional green antifreeze contains inorganic salts such as sodium silicate and phosphates.
There are nine types of antifreeze coolant available including:
Traditional green ethylene glycol -This is the type that has been used almost exclusively
since the 1950s. It is sweet tasting and can harm or kill animals or pets if swallowed.
Most ethylene glycol coolant is green or gold and contains about 93% ethylene glycol
plus water and additives.
Embittered coolant - This is conventional ethylene glycol-based coolant, which is
usually green in color and has been made bitter so that animals will not drink it and be
killed.
Propylene glycol - Similar to ethylene glycol, this type of coolant is less harmful to pets
and animals because it is not sweet tasting, although it is still harmful if swallowed.
This type of coolant should not be mixed with ethylene glycol coolant.
NOTE: Some vehicle manufacturers do not recommend the use of propylene glycol
coolant. Check the recommendations in the owner’s manual or service manual before
using it in a vehicle.
Organic acid technology (OAT) coolant - This type is ethylene glycol-based but it does
not contain silicates or phosphates. It is usually orange in color and was first developed
by Havoline (called DEXCOOL) and used in General Motors vehicles starting in 1996.
Hybrid organic acid technology (HOAT) - This orange or green coolant is an ethylene
glycol-based coolant similar to the OAT- type antifreeze as it uses additives (a low
amount of silicate) that are not abrasive to water pumps, yet provide the correct pH. The
pH of the coolant is usually above 11. A pH of 7 is neutral, with lower numbers
indicating an acidic solution and higher numbers indicating a caustic solution. If the pH
is too high, the coolant can cause scaling and reduce the heat transfer ability of the
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coolant. If the pH is too low, the resulting acidic solution could cause corrosion of the
engine components exposed to the coolant.
VW/Audi pink- Most of these coolants are HOAT (ethylene glycol-based with some
silicate and contains an organic acid) and are phosphate free.
Asian red - This coolant is ethylene glycol-based and is silicate-free, yet contains
phosphate. It can be replaced with conventional green/gold ethylene glycol coolant
when replacement of the coolant is performed.
European yellow- This conventional ethylene glycol coolant is a HOAT and has low
amounts of silicate and no phosphates.
Korean or European blue - This conventional ethylene glycol coolant has low amounts
of silicate and no phosphates. Glysantin is the trade name usually associated with this
coolant.
An antifreeze and water mixture is an example wherein the freezing point differs from the
freezing point of either pure antifreeze or pure water.