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Maintenance and Repair of Fuel Suppply, Lubrication and Cooling System Fuel Pump Testing

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CHAPTER III

MAINTENANCE AND REPAIR OF FUEL SUPPPLY, LUBRICATION AND


COOLING SYSTEM

FUEL PUMP TESTING


There are three main tests which are performed to judge the performance of a fuel pump. They
are, pressure test, volume test and vacuum test.
Pressure Test: Each pump must produce certain pressure on the outlet side, which is specified
by the manufacturer. To test a given pump for pressure connect a suitable pressure gauge in
between the pump and the carburettor and run the engine at specified speed, say 1000 r.p.m. If
the gauge indicates pressure which is lower or higher than the specified, even after checking
that there is nothing wrong with pipes and connections etc., the pump has to be replaced or
repaired and checked again to see that gives the specified pressure reading only.
Volume Test: The volume test is performed by disconnecting the pump from the carburettor
and measuring the discharge separately by means of a graduated container and stop watch,
while the engine is running at idling speed. It is to be noted here that the engine in this case will
run only by the petrol in the carburettor float chamber. If the observed rate of flow is less than
the specified one, the pump needs repairs or replacement.
Vacuum Test: The fuel pump should obviously create some vacuum on its inlet side, which is
specified by the manufacturer. To test it, connect a suitable vacuum gauge in between the fuel
tank and the pump and run the engine at idle speed. The reading of the vacuum gauge must
conform to the specifications. Now stop the engine and see for how much time the vacuum is
held in the lines. The vacuum must be retained for at least 10 seconds after closing the engine;
otherwise the pump has to be taken out for repairs or replacement.

Maintenance of Carburettor
The carburettor should be cleaned time to time in order to avoid blocking of the jets and
passages. For this purpose, it is preferable to use compressed air. Never use wire for cleaning
the jets. Also check periodically for tightness of flange securing nuts, starter fixing screws,
main jet starter jet and pilot jet. Make sure that there is no side-play in the throttle spindle.
Service Points
Make sure that:
1. Gasket between the fixing flanges is not damaged.
2. Spraying nozzle is not pulled out, it is press fitted.
3. Float toggle is not in an inverted position-
4. Pilot air bleed is not blocked.
5. The float is not damaged.
6. Volume control screw taper is not damaged-
7. Jets and passages are not leaking, sticking or worn.
8. Needle valve is not leaking sticking or worn-
9. Float chamber vent is not blocked.
10. Acceleration pump diaphragm is not porous or assembled incorrectly.
11. Pilot jet seating fully.
12. All jets and needle valve are screwed tightly.
13. All gaskets and washers are placed properly. They are not leaking.
14. Filter is cleaned properly every 800 km.
15. Acceleration pump is adjusted and cleaned.
16. Gaskets are changed while opening the carburettor.

Carburetor service:
When adjustments do not correct a carburetor problem, the carburetor must be removed to be
cleaned, inspected and rebuilt or replaced. It would be impossible (and worthless) for this book
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to cover the disassembly and overhaul of all of the carburetors a technician may need to
service.
It is always wise to disconnect the negative cable at the battery before removing a carburetor.
Before disconnecting fuel lines, make sure you have planned to have something available to
plug the line to prevent gasoline spills. Also, carefully lift the carburetor up and away from the
engine. It will have gasoline in it. Keeping it up will prevent spills. The carburetor may also
have coolant hoses connected to it. These hoses should also be plugged after they are removed.
It is a good idea to drain the coolant from the hoses before totally disconnecting them. Also, as
you disconnect vacuum hoses from the carburetor, mark them so you can reinstall them in the
same place when putting the carburetor back on. If a spacer is positioned between the
carburetor and the intake manifold, replace it with a new one. Also, make sure the sealing
surface of the intake manifold is clean and free of nicks.
During most carburetor overhaul procedures, a carburetor kit is installed. This kit usually
includes all the gaskets and fiber washers, needle valve and seat, accelerator pump plunger, and
other minor parts.
Place all the metal carburetor parts in an approved carburetor cleaner. Do not place solenoids,
floats, choke covers and springs, gaskets, filters, O-rings, diaphragms, plastic parts, or fiber
washers in carburetor cleaner. Some nylon bushings such as throttle shaft bushings may be
placed in carburetor cleaner for a short time. The carburetor castings should be completely
immersed in the cleaning solution and left in the solution until they are clean. Rinse the
carburetor components in hot water or solvent after they are removed from the cleaner. Always
use the rinsing agent recommended by the cleaner manufacturer. After the carburetor
components are rinsed, blow them completely dry with compressed air.
Make sure all adjustments are made to the internal parts of the carburetor before reinstalling it
on the intake manifold. Tighten all bolts and screws to the specified tightness, and use new
gaskets and seals. When tightening the carburetor to the intake manifold, make sure you tighten
the bolts evenly. It is best to stagger the tightening sequence. Doing this will prevent carburetor
base warpage and will allow for a good seal.

FIP INLINE JERK PUMP SYSTEM CALIBRATION AND PHASE SETTING:

Diesel fuel injection systems must accomplish five particular functions: meter, inject,
time, atomize, and create pressure. Out of this calibration or metering and Phase setting
are the important part of servicing.
• Calibration or Metering--Accurate metering or measuring of the fuel means that, for
the same fuel control setting, the same quantity of fuel must be delivered to each
cylinder for each power stroke of the engine. Only in this way can the engine operate
at uniform speed with uniform power output. Smooth engine operation and an even
distribution of the load between the cylinders depend upon the same volume of fuel
being admitted to a particular cylinder each time it fires and upon equal volumes of
fuel being delivered to all cylinders of the engine. This can be checked with FIP
Calibrating equipment and the quantity is adjusted by turning the body of the
plunger, which changes the initial position of helical grove.

• Phase setting or Timing--In addition to measuring the amount of fuel injected, the
system must properly time injection to ensure efficient combustion so that
maximum energy can be obtained from the fuel. When the fuel is injected too
early in the cycle, ignition may be delayed because the temperature of the air at
this point is not high enough. An excessive delay, on the other hand, gives rough
and noisy operation of the engine. It also permits some fuel to be lost due to the
wetting of the cylinder walls and piston head. This in turn results in poor fuel
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economy, high exhaust gas temperature, and smoke in the exhaust. When fuel is
injected too late in the cycle, all the fuel will not be burned until the piston has
traveled well past top center. When this happens, the engine does not develop
enough power, the exhaust is smoky, and fuel consumption is high. In inline jerk
pump system the phase setting is done by adjusting the tappet which operates the
plungers of the FIP.

INJECTOR NOZZLE TESTS


Pressure test: Clamp the injector on the tester and operate the tester pump. Note the reading of
the dial indicator at which the injector nozzle starts spraying. It gives pressure reading. It
should be the same as recommended by the company. If it is less, then tighten the adjusting
screw of the injector. If it is more, then loosen the adjusting screw. Repeat the process until the
correct pressure reading is obtained. Finally, tighten the lock nut.
Leak off test: Clamp the injector on the tester and built up the pressure about 150 kg/cm2 by
operating the tester pump. Keep this pressure for about l0 seconds. If the pressure drops, it
shows that there is leakage in the injector. Check the nozzle seat and nozzle valve needle and
nozzle body. Correct the seat and needle by grinding and lapping, and after that again do the
leak-off test.
Spray test: Spray test is also done on the same injector testing machine. While operating the
tester pump, see carefully the spray. It should not like a current of oil or with drops splitting
away, but it should be fully atomized.

Servicing of electronic fuel injection system


To diagnose problems in a gasoline injection system will require:
• Complete understanding of system operation.
• Basic troubleshooting expertise.
• Service manual of the vehicle/engine under service.
When locating problems, visualize the operation of the system. Relate the function of each
component of the system to the problem complaint. This will help to eliminate several possible
sources and concentrate on other potential sources the problem.
Careful checking of the engine compartment will sometimes locate gasoline injection
problems. Check the condition of all hoses, wires, lines, fuel pump, and other parts. Look for
fuel leaks, vacuum leaks, linked lines, loose electrical connections, fasteners, and other visible
troubles.
With EFI, disconnect and check the terminals of the wiring harness for rust, corrosion, or
burning. High resistance at terminal connections is a frequent cause of problems.
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Electronic Control Unit Self-Diagnosis


Modern computer control systems have “onboard” electronic self-diagnosis systems that test
themselves and can indicate the source of a problem. There are two types of computer control
systems in use at present. The first has been in use for many years and is known as on-board
diagnostics generation one or

Activating Self-Diagnosis:
Warm the engine to operating temperature. This will ensure that the system has the proper
conditions to enter closed ioop operation. Shut off the engine and turn the ignition key to on or
run. The recommended method of reading codes on OBD I and OBD II equipped vehicles is to
use a scan tool.

Reading Codes: If the output is a digital display, simply read the number and compare it with
the chart in the service manual. If the output is flashed from the dashboard MIL or ECU
mounted LED lamp, count how many flashes occur between each pause. Write down the
number flashed and compare it to the service manual. If an analogue meter is used, count the
number of needle deflections between pauses. Write down the number and compare it to the
chart in the service manual. Each system may vary. The service manual will provide the
instructions for each make and model of vehicle.

Interpreting Trouble Codes: When looking up trouble codes in the service manual, start from
the lowest number stored and work up. If multiple codes were stored, you can often eliminate
one or more codes by using this method. If you had codes 15 and 45 stored in the ECU, look up
code 15 first and then 45.
OBD I codes will be two digit numbers and each commands with a particular problem listed in
the service manual. OBD II codes are three digit numbers with an alphanumeric designator.
The alphanumeric designator indicates in what system the problem is located and whether the
code is SAE or manufacturer specific. The first digit in the three number codes indicates the
nature of the code. The last two digits of the number indicate the specific fault.

Clearing Trouble Codes: To clear or remove the trouble codes from an OBD I computer
system, you must usually disconnect the battery or the fuse to the computer. Disconnect them
for about 10 seconds. To clear the codes on vehicles with OBD II system, use a scan tool.
Checking Injector Operation: Checking the fuel injectors or a multi-point system needs time
and special tools for testing. A defective fuel injector on a multi-point system may cause an
engine miss, dieseling, and flooding. An oscilloscope can detect an injector that is only
partially defective. An injector balance test is another method for detecting bad fuel injector.

ENGINE SENSOR SERVICE: Most EFI engine sensors can be tested with self- diagnosis, a
scan tool, or a special tester/analyzer. However, an engine sensor can also be tested with a
digital meter or sometimes a test light. Refer to the service manual for specific details.
Throttle Position Sensor Service
Oxygen Sensor Service
Temperature Sensor Service
Servicing Other EFI Sensors

COMPUTER (ECU) SERVICE: Always follow manufacturer recommended procedure to


check and service an electronic control unit. If the tests find that the ECU is bad, replace it.
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ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEMS


The primary function of the engine lubrication system is to maintain a positive and continuous
oil supply to the bearings. Engine oil pressure must be high enough to get the oil to the
bearings with enough force to cause the oil flow that is required for proper cooling. The normal
engine oil pressure range is from 10 to 60 psi (200 to 400 kPa) (10 psi per 1,000 engine RPM).
However, hydrodynamic film pressures developed in the high-pressure areas of the engine
bearings may be over 1000 psi (6900 kPa). The relatively low engine oil pressures obviously
could not support these high bearing loads without hydrodymarnic lubrication.
Properties of Engine Oil
The most important engine oil property is its thickness or viscosity. As oil cools, it thickens. As
oil heats, it gets thinner. Therefore, its viscosity changes with temperature. The oil must not be
too thick at low temperatures to allow the engine to start. The lowest temperature at which oil
will pour is called its pour point. An index of the change in viscosity between the cold and hot
extremes is called the viscosity index (VI). All oils with a high viscosity index thin less with
heat than do oils with a low viscosity index. Oils must also be miscible, meaning they are
capable of mixing with other oils (brands and viscosities, example) without causing any
problems such as sludge.
SAE rating
Engine oils are sold with an SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) grade number, which
indicates the viscosity range into which the oil fits. Oils tested at 212°F (100°C) have a number
with no letter following.
For example, SAE 30 indicates that the oil has only been checked at 212°F (100°C). This oil’s
viscosity falls within the SAE grade number range when the oil is hot. Oils tested at 0°F ( -
18°C) are rated with a number and the letter W, which means winter and indicates that the
viscosity was tested at 0°F’, such as SAE 20W. An SAE 5W-30 multigrade oil one that meets
the SAE 5W viscosity specification when cooled to 0°F (-18°C) and meets the SAE 30
viscosity specification when tested at 212°F (100°C).
Most vehicle manufacturers recommend the following multiviscosity engine oils:
• SAE 5W-30
• SAE 1OW-30
An oil with a high viscosity has a higher resistance to flow and is thicker than lower-viscosity
oil. A thick is not necessarily a good oil and a thin oil is not necessarily a bad oil. Generally,
the following items can be considered in the selection of an engine oil within the recommended
viscosity range.
• Thinner oil
1. Improved cold-engine starting
2. Improved fuel economy
• Thicker oil
1. Improved protection at higher temperatures
2. Reduced fuel economy
API rating
The American Petroleum Institute (API), working with the engine manufacturers and oil
companies, has established an engine oil performance classification. Oils are tested and rated in
production automotive engines. The oil container is printed with the API classification of the
oil. The API performance or service classification and the SAE grade marking are the only
information available to help determine which oil is satisfactory for use in an engine.
Gasoline Engine Rating
In gasoline engine ratings, the letter S means service, but it can be remembered as being for use
in spark ignition engines. The rating system is open-ended so that newer, improved ratings can
be readily added as necessary.
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Diesel Engine Rating


Diesel classifications begin with the letter C, which stands for commercial, but can also be
remembered as being for use in compression ignition or diesel engines.

1LSAC O1L RATING- International Lubricant Standardization and Approval Committee

ENGINE OIL ADDITIVES


Additives are used in engine oils for three different reasons: (1) to replace some properties
removed during refining, (2) to reinforce some of the oil’s natural properties, and (3) to provide
the oil with new properties it did not originally have. Oils from some petroleum oil fields
require more arid different additives than oils from other fields. Additives are usually classified
according to the property they add to the oil.
The following table lists some of the more widely used additives and the reasons for their use.

Type Reason for use Typical compounds


Dispersants, Keep sludge, carbon and other Succinimides, neutral metallic
detergents deposit precursors suspended in sulfonates, phenates, polymeric
the oil detergents, amine compounds
Basic metal Neutralize acids, prevent corrosion Overbased metallic sulfonates and
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compounds from acid attack phenates
Oxidation Prevent or control oxidation of oil, Zinc dialkyldithiophosphates; aromatic
inhibitors formation of varnish, sludge, and amines, sulfurized products, hindered
corrosive compounds; limit phenols
viscosity increase
Extreme Form protective film on engine Zinc dialkyldithiophosphates;
pressure (EP) parts, reduce wear, prevent tricresyiphosphates, organic phos
anti-wear scuffing and seizing phates, chlorine and sulfur compounds
additives
Friction Reduce or modify friction, Long-chain polar compounds, (amides,
modifiers improve fuel economy phosphates, phosphites, acids, etc.)
Rust inhibitors Prevent the formation of rust on High-base additives, sulfonates,
metal surfaces by formation of phosphates, organic acids or esters,
surface film or neutralization of amines
acids
viscosity index Reduce the rate of viscosity Polyisobutylene, mathacrylate, acrylate
improvers change with temperature; reduce polymers, olefin copolymers; may
fuel consumption; maintain low oil incorporate dispersant groups
consumption; allow easy cold
starting
Metal Form surface films so that metal Zinc dialkyldithiophosphates, metal
deactivators surfaces do not catalyze oil phenates, organic nitrogen compounds
oxidation
Pour point Lower “freezing” point of oils, Low molecular weight methacrylate
dispersants assuring free flow at low polymers
temperatures
Anti-foamants Reduce foam in crankcase Silicone polymers

Two of the most common additive packages are the dispersants and detergents. The dispersants
are chemical additive packages that disperse sludge, car bon, and other deposits in the oil, and
the detergents displace gum deposits from within the engine interior. Other additives—the
oxidation inhibitors—prevent oxidation of the oil when the engine is running continually at
elevated operating temperatures. Oxidation of the lube oil leads to viscosity increases and
deposits and corrosion. The oxidation inhibitors also prevent formation of varnish and sludge.
Anti-wear and extreme pressure additives are used to form a protective film on metal surfaces.
Viscosity improvers and wear inhibitors prevent foaming of the oil by the use of silicone
compounds and also act as friction modifiers.

Additive packages are used in dosages such as


 Industrial lubricants: 0.5% to 2% by weight
 Tractor hydraulic fluid gear oils: 4% to 7% by weight
 Automotive and truck engine oils: 3% to 16% by weight
 Zinc-free railroad diesel engine oils: 7% to 20% by weight
 Marine engine oils: 10% to 30% by weight
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1. Additives in a typical can of lube oil 2. Contents of a fully formulated lube oil.

The figure 1 illustrates a typical additive package for heavy duty high speed diesel engine oils.
Figure2 illustrates the contents of a fully formulated quart of oil. Note that the base stock crude
oil accounts for less than 1%, the additive package for 5% to 10%, the VI (viscosity index
improver) for 10% to 20%, and the various inhibitors for 75% to 80%.
Synthetic Lube Oils
The term synthetic means that it is a manufactured product and not refined from a naturally
occurring substance, as engine oil (petroleum base) is refined from crude oil. Synthetic oil is
processed from several different base stocks using several different methods.
According to the American Petroleum Institute, engine oil is classified into groups as follows.
Group I - Mineral, nonsynthetic, base oil with few if any additives.
This type of oil is suitable for light lubricating needs and rust protection and is not to be used in
an engine.
Group II - Mineral oils with quality additive packages.
Most of the conventional engine oils are Group II.
Group III - Hydrogenated (hydroisomerized) synthetic compounds commonly referred to as
hydrowaxes or hydrocracked oil.
This is the lowest cost of synthetic engine oils. Castrol Syntec is a Group III oil.
Group IV - Synthetic oils made from mineral oil and monomolecular oil called polyalpholefm
or POA.
Mobil 1 is an example of a Group IV synthetic oil.
Group V—Nonmineral sources such as alcohol from corn called diesters or polyolesters.
Red Line synthetic oil is an example of a Group V oil.
Some types of synthetic oil are not compatible with other types. Some synthetic oils are mixed
with petroleum base engine oils, but these must be labeled as a blend.
The major advantage of using synthetic engine oil is in its ability to remain fluid at very low
temperatures. This characteristic of synthetic oil makes it popular in colder climates where
cold-engine cranking is important. The major disadvantage is cost. The cost of synthetic engine
oils can be four to five times the cost of petroleum-based engine oils.

Two Stroke Cycle Engine Oils


Two-stroke-cycle engines are always loaded, since every time the piston moves upward it is
under compression, and every time it moves downward it is on the power stroke. Unlike a four-
stroke-cycle engine, a separate intake and exhaust stroke, the two-cycle engine completes both
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its intake and exhaust strokes when the ports in the liner / cylinder are opened for about 120
crankshaft degrees (although the exhaust valves do open at about 95° to 100° ATDC).
In a two-cycle diesel, multi-viscosity oils tend to break down faster than single-weight engine
oils due to mechanical and thermal stresses that result in a loss of viscosity and premature
engine wear. Detroit Diesel two-cycle engines have been shown to achieve significantly longer
time between overhaul on 40 or 50 single- grade lube oil than on any other available lubricant.
This oil is more effective in reducing wear on critical engine parts. On DDC 149 series two-
cycle engine models, 50-grade oil is recommended for engines operating in continuous high-
temperature conditions (over 94° C, 200° F, coolant out) and for applications where ambient
temperatures are above 35° C (95° F). This oil has given superior performance under these
conditions. Do not, however, use 50-grade oil at temperatures below 10° C (50° F).
Although multi-viscosity oils exhibit lower drag and easier engine cranking in cold ambient
temperatures, DDC recommends that auxiliary starting aids be used to provide reliable starting
without sacrificing engine life. Synthetic oils may be used if suitable viscosity ranges are
available. In cases where consistent operation in cold ambient temperatures is unavoidable, we
can use lighter-weight lube oil; however, expect less than optimum engine life. DDC also
cautions against the use of SAE 30-grade oil in any two-stroke marine engines or Series 149
engines under any circumstances.

Oil Change Intervals


All vehicle and engine manufacturers recommend a maximum oil change interval. The
recommended intervals are almost always expressed in terms of mileage or elapsed time (or
hours of operation), whichever milestone is reached first.
Most vehicle manufacturers recommend an oil change interval of 7500 to 12,000 miles (12,000
to 19,000 kilometers) or every six months. If, however, any one of the conditions in the
following list exists, the oil change interval recommendation drops to a more reasonable 2000
to 3000 miles (3000 to 5000 kilometers) or every three months. The important thing to
remember is that these are recommended maximum intervals and they should be shortened
substantially if any of the following operating conditions exists.
1. Operating in dusty areas
2. Towing a trailer
3. Short-trip driving, especially during cold weather (The definition of a short trip varies among
manufacturers, but it is usually defined as 4 to 15 miles (6 to 24 kilometers) each time the
engine is started.)
4. Operating in temperatures below freezing (32°F, 0°C)
5. Operating at idle speed for extended periods of time (such as normally occurs in police or
taxi service)
Because most vehicles driven during cold weather are driven on short trips, most technicians
and automotive experts recommend changing the oil every 2000 to 3000 miles or every two to
three months, whichever occurs first.

Details of oil change for heavy duty vehicles are as follows:


Service application Oil drain interval
Highway truck and motor coach 15,000 miles (24,000 km)
City transit coaches 6000 miles (9600 km) or 3 months*
Pickup and delivery 12,000 miles (19,000 km)
stop and go, short trip 6000 miles (9600 km)
Industrial, agricultural 300 hours or I year*
Marine 150 hours
Stationary units, continuous 300 hours or 3 months*
Stationary units, standby 150 hours or I year*
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OIL CHANGE PROCEDURE
The oil will drain more rapidly from a warm engine than from a cold one. In addition, the
contaminants are more likely to be suspended in the oil immediately after running the engine.
Position a drain pan under the drain plug; then remove the plug with care to avoid contact with
hot oil.
Allow the oil to drain freely so that the contaminants come out with the oil. It is not critically
important to get every last drop of oil from the engine oil pan, because a quantity of used oil
still remains in the engine oil passages and oil pump. While the engine oil is draining, the oil
plug gasket should be examined. If it appears to be damaged, it should be replaced.
When the oil stops running and starts to drip, reinstall and tighten the drain plug. Replace the
oil filter if that is to be done during this oil change. Refill the engine with the proper type,
grade, and quantity of oil. Restart the engine and allow the engine to idle until it develops oil
pressure; then check the engine for leaks, especially at the oil filter.
OIL PUMP CHECKS
The cover is removed to check the condition of the oil pump. The gears and housing are
examined for scoring. If the gears and housing are heavily scored, the entire pump should be
replaced. If they are lightly scored, the clearances in the pump should be measured. These
clearances include the space between the gears and housing, the space between the teeth of the
two gears, and the space between the side of the gear and the pump cover. A feeler gauge is
often used to make these measurements. Gauging plastic can be used to measure the space
between the side of the gears and the cover. The oil pump should be replaced when excessive
clearance or scoring is found. On most engines, the oil pump should be replaced as part of any
engine work, especially if the cause for the repair is lack of lubrication.
Always refer to the manufacturer’s specifications when checking the oil pump for wear.
Typical oil pump clearances include the following:
1. End plate clearance: 0.0015 inch (0.04 millimeter)
2. Side (rotor) clearance: 0.012 inch (0.30 millimeter)
3. Rotor tip clearance: 0.010 inch (0.25 millimeter)
4. Gear end play clearance: 0.004 inch (0.10 millimeter)
All parts should also be inspected closely for wear. Check the relief valve for scoring and
check the condition of the spring. When installing the oil pump, coat the sealing surfaces with
engine assembly lubricant. This lubricant helps draw oil from the oil pan on initial start-up.

Coolant is a mixture of antifreeze and water. Water is able to absorb more heat per gallon than
any other liquid coolant. Under standard conditions, water boils at 212°F (100°C) and freezes
at 32°F (0°C). When water freezes, it decreases in volume by about 9%. The expansion of the
freezing water can easily crack engine blocks, cylinder heads, and radiators. All manufacturers
recommend the use of ethylene glycol-based antifreeze mixtures for protection against this
problem.
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A curve depicting freezing point as compared with the percentage of antifreeze mixture is
shown in Figure. It should be noted that the freezing point increases as the antifreeze
concentration is increased above 60%. The normal mixture is 50% antifreeze and 50% water.
Ethylene glycol antifreezes contain anticorrosion additives, rust inhibitors, and water pump
lubricants.
At the maximum level of protection, an ethylene glycol concentration of 60% will absorb about
85% as much heat as will water. Ethylene glycol-based antifreeze also has a higher boiling
point than water. If the coolant boils, it vaporizes and does not act as a cooling agent because it
is not in liquid form and in contact with the cooling surfaces. All coolants have rust and
corrosion inhibitors to help protect the metals in the engine and cooling systems. Most
conventional green antifreeze contains inorganic salts such as sodium silicate and phosphates.
There are nine types of antifreeze coolant available including:
 Traditional green ethylene glycol -This is the type that has been used almost exclusively
since the 1950s. It is sweet tasting and can harm or kill animals or pets if swallowed.
Most ethylene glycol coolant is green or gold and contains about 93% ethylene glycol
plus water and additives.
 Embittered coolant - This is conventional ethylene glycol-based coolant, which is
usually green in color and has been made bitter so that animals will not drink it and be
killed.
 Propylene glycol - Similar to ethylene glycol, this type of coolant is less harmful to pets
and animals because it is not sweet tasting, although it is still harmful if swallowed.
This type of coolant should not be mixed with ethylene glycol coolant.
NOTE: Some vehicle manufacturers do not recommend the use of propylene glycol
coolant. Check the recommendations in the owner’s manual or service manual before
using it in a vehicle.
 Organic acid technology (OAT) coolant - This type is ethylene glycol-based but it does
not contain silicates or phosphates. It is usually orange in color and was first developed
by Havoline (called DEXCOOL) and used in General Motors vehicles starting in 1996.
 Hybrid organic acid technology (HOAT) - This orange or green coolant is an ethylene
glycol-based coolant similar to the OAT- type antifreeze as it uses additives (a low
amount of silicate) that are not abrasive to water pumps, yet provide the correct pH. The
pH of the coolant is usually above 11. A pH of 7 is neutral, with lower numbers
indicating an acidic solution and higher numbers indicating a caustic solution. If the pH
is too high, the coolant can cause scaling and reduce the heat transfer ability of the
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coolant. If the pH is too low, the resulting acidic solution could cause corrosion of the
engine components exposed to the coolant.
 VW/Audi pink- Most of these coolants are HOAT (ethylene glycol-based with some
silicate and contains an organic acid) and are phosphate free.
 Asian red - This coolant is ethylene glycol-based and is silicate-free, yet contains
phosphate. It can be replaced with conventional green/gold ethylene glycol coolant
when replacement of the coolant is performed.
 European yellow- This conventional ethylene glycol coolant is a HOAT and has low
amounts of silicate and no phosphates.
 Korean or European blue - This conventional ethylene glycol coolant has low amounts
of silicate and no phosphates. Glysantin is the trade name usually associated with this
coolant.
An antifreeze and water mixture is an example wherein the freezing point differs from the
freezing point of either pure antifreeze or pure water.

Pure antifreeze is usually 95% ethylene glycol, 2% to 3% water, and 2% to 3% additives.


Depending on the exact percentage of water used, antifreeze, as sold in containers, freezes
between —8°F and + 8°F (— 13°C and — 22°C). Therefore, it is easiest just to remember that
most antifreeze freezes at about 0°F (— 18°C).
The boiling point of antifreeze and water is also a factor of mixture concentrations.

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