AMBROSIA HSG Shoot for the moon. Even if you miss, you'll land among the stars.

AUTHENTIC READING
The Alpine Club in London has all the ambience and bonhomie of a country pub, where the regulars
have been coming for years to chew the fat over great dimbs. Many mountaineers have spoken here
before; this particular evening, the floor is given over to Alan Hinkes, who is introduced by the club's
president, Sir Chris Bonington. Hinkes is speaking before he sets off on his attempt to become the first
Briton to climb all 14 of the world's highest peaks over 8000 metres. While five men have already achieved
this feat, he will be the first to climb six within a year.
Even his good friends only give him 100:1 odds of achieving this goal, says Bonington, "his less good
friends 1000:1". But Hinkes refuses to even listen to such doubting talk. It is not a case of "if" he manages
to achieve his final ascent (Nepal's Anapurna) but, he says, "when".
It was during his first attempt at an "8000er" in the Himalayas in 1987 that he first thought about
attempting "the 14", as the world's 14 highest peaks are known in mountaineering circles.
Over the next 10 years, Hinkes gradually climbed another seven of the 8000ers. Then followed
three years during which he made three attempts on the world's hardest mountain, Pakistan's 8611-metre-
high K2.
"K2 is not much lower than Everest", explains Hinkes, "so you have all the same altitude problems".
It is also much more difficult to climb, he adds. "In 93 I had to retreat to help a guy down who was in a really
bad way, then the next year 1 got very near the top but wasn't happy with the snow conditions - I thought
it might avalanche”.
Hinkes' maxim, which he repeats seemingly as much to remind himself as anyone else, is
"No mountain is worth a life, the summit is a bonus". It did not stop him attempting to summit in 1995
though. "It's always difficult to enjoy it on top of the mountain because you know you have to get back
down".
Descending is always harder, Hinkes says. "You're exhausted - particularly if you burn up loads of
calories going 'yahoo!' on the summit like some people do. You have to keep yourself under control for the
descent.

Death is an inescapable fact of high- altitude mountaineering.

"You find lots of bodies on the north side of Everest," he told the Alpine Club audience
matter-of-factly. After all, who is going to bring them down?
"The deaths of other mountaineers do cross your mind," he says, "but I'm not going to stop climbing
just because somebody dies. And when somebody does die, I'm not going to be shocked out of my box
thinking 'Oh I didn't know that could happen', because know it can, just as I know it can on a car journey."
Getting enough food is a crucial aspect of Hinkes' back-to-back climbs expedition. "Doing an 8000er is like
running three marathons. You can lose stones in weight because you are burning off calories every day and
can't carry enough food to get them back. You'd have trouble eating that much food anyway because it
doesn't assimilate properly at altitude. The key is to have a good cook at base camp and plenty of food."
This means egg and chips, bacon sandwiches and other "real" food. The mere mention of dehydrated food
makes Hinkes splutter: "I wouldn't eat it if it was given to me free. It's revolting for a start and won't
reconstitute properly on a big mountain because you need water that is boiling at 100° Celsius."
Hinkes celebrates his 43rd birthday on 23 April 1997, the day he intends to summit Lhotse. "You're
at your peak in the Himalayas in your late 30s and early 40s," he maintains. "I was as fit as a butcher's dog
20 years ago but it would have been difficult to force myself to go slow and the way to get fit on big
mountains is to keep pushing slowly."
 For all his pragmatism, flippancy and northern brusqueness, Hinkes is very obviously relishing the
task ahead. If he makes it - and he refuses to be drawn into rating his own chances of success - he is well
aware that it will be largely down to his ability to keep mind, body and soul together in situations where
the mountains have the final say. He is angry at any reference to the fact that he is "conquering" anything.
"Mountaineers have never spoken about 'conquering' mountains. It is the media and non-climbers
who talk in this way. You never conquer a mountain; a mountain lets you sneak to the top and sneak back
down. It lets you have a good time or a bad time on it, but it never allows you to conquer it."

1. What record is Alan Hinkes hoping to beat?

A. to be the first Briton to reach the summit of Anapurna
B. to be the first Briton to climb the 14 highest mountains
C. to climb six of the world’s highest mountains in a year
D. to climb the 14 highest mountains in a year

2. The word ‘bonhomie’ is closest in meaning to _____

A. vibrancy
B. loudness
C. friendliness
D. professionalism

3. How does the writer react when his friends doubt him?
A. He accuses his friends of not laying faith in him.
B. He starts to have reservations about his ability.
C. He realises they are not trying to help him.
D. He remains dead set on achieving this goal.

4. What does Hinkes find hardest about climbing?

A. coming down the mountain
B. having to assist someone at the expense of his own journey
C. deciding not to take a risk
D. repressing his feelings on the summit

5. What is the writer’s attitude when he sees the bodies of dead climbers?
A. Bewildered as to why they sacrifice their life
B. Indifferent as he thought they are just unfortunate
C. Well aware of death as an ineluctable part
D. Sickened by the unpleasantness of the scene

6. Why is food a problem for Hinkes when climbing?

A. He refuses to take in dehydrated food as a last resort.
B. He finds that there is a severe shortage in ‘real’ food.
C. He would run into troubles were there no food preparer.
D. He believes that carrying food proves to be a tremendous burden.

7. Why does he think he is the best age to climb mountains?

A. He is fitter and more wholesome than when he was younger.
B. He can estimate the time to unwind and take a rest.
C. He can acclimatise to the weather and altitude more quickly.
D. He knows how to build up his strength.

8. The word ‘pragmatism’ is closest in meaning to

A. practicality
B. heroism
C. clout
D. quick-quittedness

9. Why does it annoy him when non-climbers talk about ‘conquering mountains’?
A. Laymen are unable to grasp the underlying meaning of the term.
B. Only unsophisticated specialists use this expression.
C. The general population and the media have underestimated the mountains.
D. Success is not a distinct possibility for him and other climbers.

10. Which of the following best summarises the writer’s attitude towards his mountaineering experiences?
A. Zeal and sensibility
B. Courage and contempt for amateurs
C. Enthusiasm and outrage with the mistreatment of mountain ranges
D. Bravery with an intention of retirement

KEY

1. B 6. C
2. C 7. D
3. D 8. A
4. A 9. C
5. C 10. A