ParacordBraceletJig PDF

UNIQUE PARACORD BRACELET/NECKLACE TYING JIG-REVISITED
I decided to redesign the bracelet tying jig because no matter what I tried, after I painted it, when I would try to
reposition the slide, it was always stuck and I would have to prize it up with a screwdriver to move it. IF YOU
DECIDE TO BUILD ONE OF THESE, DON'T PAINT IT (YOU COULD PROBABLY STAIN IT).
The main difference in this design is the ruler and ruler guide, I was going to put a ruler on last time but the design
wouldn't allow it.
To make this jig easy for everyone to build, I decided to design it so that it would require only a few cuts (five cuts
are required, if you use the same size boards as shown).
With the new design, you no longer have to measure where to place the bottom slider because a ruler is built-in,
and with the ruler guide, accurate measurement is as easy as 1-2-3.
Here is the list of materials (all can be purchased from Lowes or other lumber company):
• (1) 3/8 x 6 x 24 Select Pine Craft Board | Item #: 50237 ($3.09)

• (1) The Hillman Group Brass Plated Safety Cup Hook 7/8" | Item #: 330639 ($1.18)
• (1) Elmer's 4 Oz. Carpenter's Wood Glue | Item #: 41148 ($1.98)
• (1) IDEAL 3/8" Cable Clamp 15 pack | Item #: 48294 ($1.58)
• (2) Fender Washers ($0.20)
• (1) 1/4-20 x 1 Bolt ($0.15)
• (1) 1/4 Wing Nut (?)
• (6) ¾” screws to temporarily secure the boards in place while cutting the rails
• Invisible Tape (glue could be used)
• Printable Ruler
o Download my ruler (right-click the image and select "Save Image As..."
o Download a variety of different rulers to print here
Materials Note: This project can be completed with different materials using different types of wood and board
thicknesses, but to use different board sizes you must refer to the bottom of the Plans image.
BUILDING THE BRACELET TYING JIG
PREPARING THE PAPER RULER

First, decide which ruler you want to use and go ahead and print it out. Then, cut the dotted lines only. Now, using
either paper glue or invisible tape, join each of the lengths of the ruler together. Notice on three of the ruler cut-
outs that the first two inches don’t have a number, this is by design, starting with the ruler cut-out that starts with
“8”, slide the first two inches underneath the first cut-out. You should be able to see through the paper enough to
tell where the long vertical mark is underneath, slide it even with the top “7” line. Continue to do this with the
other two cut-outs and you will end up with a twenty-five inch paper ruler.
CUTTING THE VERTICAL SLOT

Starts by using your router to rout a slot down the middle of the four inch wide board, the exact dimensions are on
the plans image.
If you don't have a router you can use a drill with a bit the size of the slot to be cut and a circular saw. Drill two
holes, one on each end of the slot, then mark two lines the length of the slot that will be the thickness of the slot.
Now make two passes with the circular saw by cutting both lines you just marked. Once cut, the slot should fall out
since you drilled the two outside corners already, depending on the thickness of the slot, you may need to make
another pass with the circular saw to remove all material in the slot.
This step sounds much harder than it actually is but I wanted to make the instructions clear.
CUTTING AND PLACING THE RAILS

Gather all four boards and place them together, then center the 3/8x6x24 underneath the other three boards as
shown in the image below, the rail boards (3/8x2x24) will be sticking over the edge slightly (refer to the image
below). Now grab some screws and temporarily secure all boards in place (you can use the Wood Glue to secure
the rails in place but don't use any glue on the center board).
Once secured, use the circular saw to rip the edges of the rail boards even with the 3/8x6x24 board (two cuts are
required, cut at the dotted line of the image below).
FINISHING CUTS
Now remove the screws that are holding the center board in place. Use the plans image for directions on cutting
the 3/8x4x24 board, there will be three cuts. Measure your bottom board (3/8x6x24) to find out the exact width of
the board because it won’t be exactly six inches (mine was 5-3/8” wide). Once you measure the board you will
know how wide to cut the ruler guide.
ASSEMBLY
• Now that all of the boards are cut, you should have six boards (four if the rails are secured to bottom
board).
• Glue the backside of the top board (the two inch piece), and then place it on the bottom board.
• Place the slider board (the four inch piece) on the bottom board. Glue the top of the slider board and place
the ruler guide board (the one inch piece) on top of the slider board (this board should be even on both
sides with the bottom board).
• Measure to find the center of the slider board and then drill a hole wide enough for your bolt to pass
through.
• Place the paper ruler on the left side of the rails; make sure the start of the ruler is even with the bottom
edge of the top board (the two inch piece). Then secure the ruler in place using invisible tape, I made sure
to cover the entire paper surface of the ruler so that it won’t hang on the ruler guide and it will be easier to
clean should it get dirty.
• Measure the width of the top board (the two inch piece). Mark three spots (try to center the marks) for
your buckles and hook (I placed the hook in the middle spot on mine).
• Remember your measurements you made on the top board and transfer the marks to the ruler guide on the
slider board and then screw down the cable clamps and hook. Since there is limited space for attachments,
you should pick the buckle sizes that you use most often.
THE FINISHED JIG

USING THE JIG
The jig can be used to tie all sorts of ties where you need tension on the strands to tie it.
If you are tying a bracelet or other design that uses buckles, follow these directions:
1. Attach the male end of the buckle to the female end mounted to the jig and vice versa for the other end.
2. Now set the jig to the size of bracelet or other design you will be tying, i.e. 7½ inches.
3. From here all you have to do is continue as you would normally tie the knot design using buckles.
If you are tying a bracelet or other design that doesn’t use buckles, see the images below.
Solomon Bar Bracelet

Over-and-Under Weave

ParacordBraceletJig PDF

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

ParacordBraceletJig PDF

Uploaded by

Document Information

Original Title

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

ParacordBraceletJig PDF

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

UNIQUE PARACORD BRACELET/NECKLACE TYING JIG-REVISITED

• (1) 3/8 x 6 x 24 Select Pine Craft Board | Item #: 50237 ($3.09)

BUILDING THE BRACELET TYING JIG

PREPARING THE PAPER RULER

CUTTING THE VERTICAL SLOT

CUTTING AND PLACING THE RAILS

THE FINISHED JIG

Solomon Bar Bracelet

You might also like