UNIT V

FORMULATION &
EVALUATION OF SHAMPOO

V.MANIMARAN
LECTURER
DEPARTMENT OF PHARMACEUTICS
SRM COLLEGE OF PHARMACY
 CONTENTS

1. Introduction
2. Types of Shampoos
3. Product Ingredients
4. Formulation
5. Evaluation of Shampoos
6. References
 Introduction
• Definition: A shampoo is a preparation of a surfactant (i.e.
surface active material) in a suitable form – liquid, solid or
powder – which when used under the specified conditions
will remove surface grease, dirt, and skin debris from the hair
shaft and scalp without adversely affecting the user.
• Requirements of a Shampoo:
1. It should effectively and completely remove dust or soil,
excessive sebum or other fatty substances and loose corneal
cells from the hair.
2. It should produce a good amount of foam to satisfy the
psychological requirements of the user.
3. It should be easily removed on rinsing with water.
4. It should leave the hair non‐dry, soft, lustrous with good
manageability and minimum fly away.
5. It should impart a pleasant fragnance to the hair.
6. It should not cause any side‐effects / irritation to skin or eye.
7. It should not make the hand rough and chapped.
 Types of
Shampoo
Shampoos are of the following types:
¾ Powder Shampoo
¾ Liquid Shampoo
¾ Lotion Shampoo
¾ Cream Shampoo
¾ Jelly Shampoo
¾ Aerosol Shampoo
¾ Specialized Shampoo
• Conditioning Shampoo
• Anti‐ dandruff Shampoo
• Baby Shampoo
• Two Layer Shampoo
 PRODUCT INGREDIENTS
• Surfactants are the main component of shampoo. Mainly anionic
surfactants are used.
• The raw materials used in the manufacture of shampoos are:
1. Principal surfactants: Provide detergency and foam.
2. Secondary surfactants: Improve detergency, foam and hair
condition.
3. Other additives.
CLEANSING ACTION OF SHAMPOO
A surfactant consists of two part‐ one hydrophilic (water loving) 
while the other is hydrophobic in nature.
 Surfactants

¾ Anionic surfactants are mostly used (good foaming

properties). The hydrophilic portion carries a negative
charge which results in superior foaming, cleaning
and end result attributes.
¾ Non‐ionic surfactants have good cleansing properties 
but do not have sufficient foaming power.
¾ Cationic surfactants are toxic and are hence not used. 
However, they may be used in low concentration in 
hair conditioners.
¾ Ampholytics, being expensive, are generally not used. 
However, they are mainly used as secondary 
surfactants and good hairconditioners.
 ANIONIC SURFACTANTS
CLASS EXAMPLE COMMENT
Alkyl benzene  Sodium dodecyl benzene  Tend to yield an “airy” or low density foam 
sulfonates sulfonate and often are drying to the hair
Primary alkyl sulfates Lauric acid, stearic acid and Good lathering effect in hard water, free from 
their salts rancidity, easy to wash.
Secondary alcohol  Sodium sec‐lauryl sulfate Low cost, dispersing and emulsifying action, 
sulfates dissapointing as detergets and shampoo 
components
Alkyl benzene  Triton X200 Stable in acid or alkaline solution, excellent 
polyoxyethylene emulsifier, detergent and wetting agent; 
sulfonates extremely stable at pH of skin

Sulfated  Lauric monoglyceride Stable in hard water

monoglycerides ammonium sulfate
Alkyl ether sulfates Derivatives of lauryl alcohol  Good cleansers, act as solvents for non polar 
ether with PEG additives
Sarcosines Lauroyl and cocoyl Excellent foaming and conditioning action
sarcosines
Sulfosuccinates Aerosol OT Less irritating to skin and eye (baby shampoo)
Maypon Protalbinic and lysalbinic Hydrolysation product of proteins with fatty 
acid derivatives (maypon 4C) acid chlorides in presence of alkali
 NON‐IONIC SURFACTANTS
CLASS EXAMPLE COMMENTS
Fatty acid  Lauric monoethanolamide Improves solubility of SLS
alkanolamides (should  Stearic ethanolamide Pearlescent thickener
not be used > 15%)
Oleic ethanolamides Hair conditioning agents
Polyalkoxylated Ethoxylated fatty alcohols Stable in wide range of pH; stabilizing 
derivatives emulsifying and opacifying properties
Block polymers (pluronics) Good rinsability, can be used in high %
Sorbitol esters (TWEENS) Solubilizers and emulsifiers, used in baby 
shampoos
Amine oxides Coconut and dodecyl Foam booster and anti‐static agents
dimethyl amine oxides
AMPHOTERIC SURFACTANTS
N‐alkyl aminoacids β – aminoacid derivatives Foaming agents
Aspargine derivatives Compatible with both anionic and 
cationic surfactants
Betains Amido betains High foaming properties, mild.
Alkyl imidazoline MIRANOLTM Baby shampoos
 ADDITIVES
¾ Conditioning agents: Lanolin, mineral oil, herbal extracts, egg 
derivatives.
¾ Foam builders: Lauroyl monoethanolamide, sarcosinates
¾ Viscosity modifiers : 
™ Electrolytes – NH4Cl, NaCl
™ Natural gums – Gum Karaya, tragacanth, alginates
™ Cellulose derivatives – Hydroxy ethyl cellulose, methyl cellulose
™ Carboxy vinyl polymers – Carbopol 934 
™ Others – PVP, phosphate esters.
¾ Sequestering agents : EDTA
¾ Opacifying agents : Alkanolamides of higher fatty acids, propylene 
glycol, Mg, Ca and Zn salts of stearic acid, spermaceti, etc.
¾ Clarifying agents : 
™ Solubilizing alcohols – ethanol, isopropanol
™ Phosphates –
™ Non‐ionic solubilizers – polyethoxyated alcohols and esters.
 ADDITIVES

¾ Perfumes : Herbal, fruity or floral fragnances.
¾ Preservatives : Methyl and propyl paraben, 
formaldehyde (most effective).
¾ Anti‐dandruff agents: The shampoos contain small
amount of these actives, which are in contact with
the scalp for only a short time. In order to be
effective the active ingredient must work in the oil‐
water environment of the scalp and must be readily
substantive to the scalp for continuing activity.
Ex: Selenium sulfide, zinc pyrithone, salicylic acid.
 FORMULATIONS

POWDER SHAMPOO LOTION SHAMPOO
Henna powder 5% TLS 35%
Soap powder 50% Glyceryl monostearate 2%
Sodium carbonate 22.5% Magnesium stearate 1%
Potassium carbonate 7.5% Water Upto 100%
Borax 15% Color q.s
Perfume q.S Perfume, preservatives q.s

LIQUID SHAMPOO
SLS 40%
NaCl (to desired viscosity) 2‐4%
Water Upto 100%
Perfume, color, preservatives q.s
 FORMULATIONS

CREAM SHAMPOO AEROSOL SHAMPOO
SLS 38% TLS 60%
Cetyl alcohol 7% Coconut diethanolamide 2%
Water Upto 100% Water Upto 90%
Color, perfume q.S Propellent 10%
Preservative q.s Color, perfume, preservative q,.s

JELLY SHAMPOOS
Alkyl dimethyl benzalkonium chloride 15%
TLS (40%) 28%
Coconut ditethanolamide 7%
HPMC 1%
Water  Upto 100%
Color, perfume, preservative q.s
 FORMULATIONS

CONDITIONING SHAMPOOS BABY SHAMPOO
Steryl dimethyl benzyl  5.5%
Magnesium lauryl sulfate (27.5%) 11%
ammonium chloride
Ethylene glycol  2% Cocamidopropyl betaine (30%) 5%
monostearate
Cetyl alcohol 2.5% Polysorbate 20 1%
Water Upto 100% PEG 600 3.5%
Color, perfume, preservative q.s
Perfume q.S
TWO LAYER SHAMPOO
Preservative q.S
SLS 27%
Citric acid To pH 6
Cocamidopropylamine oxide 5%

Lauramine DEA 1% Color q.S

Lactic acid (50%) 1% Water (deionised); Aqua (INCI) To 100%

Formaldehyde 0.1%
 FORMULATIONS

ANTI‐DANDRUFF SHAMPOO ANTI‐DANDRUFF SHAMPOO
Thymol 0.05% Selenium sulfide 2.5%
Menthol 0.1%
Bentonite 5%
Camphor 0.1%
SLS paste 35%
TLS 55%
Water upto 100 Water upto 100
Color, perfume, preservative q.s Color, perfume, preservative q.s
 FORMULATION
HERBAL SHAMPOO
Natural essential oil blend 0.5%
Cyamopsis tetragonoloba (Guar Gum) 1%
Camellia sinensis (Green Tea) extract 2%
Glycerin 1%
Hydrolysed wheat protein 2.5%
Salvia officinalis (Sage) leaf extract 1.5%
Salvia officinalis (Sage) 1.5%
Glyceryl oleate 1%
Polysorbate 20 0.5%
Potassium sorbate 5%
Aloe barbadensis (Aloe vera) extract 0.5%
Arctium minus (Burdock) root extract 0.5%
Disodium coco‐glucoside sulfosuccinate 0.5%
Preservatives q.s.
Water Upto 100%
 Evaluation of Shampoos
ƒ Performance characteristics ƒProduct characteristics
9 Foam and foam stability 9Fragnance
9 Detergency and cleaning action 9Colour
¾ Effect of water hardness 9Consistency
¾ Surface Tension and wetting 9Package
¾ Surfactant content and analysis
9 Rinsing
9 Conditioning action
¾ Softness
¾ Luster
¾ Lubricity
¾ Body, texture and set retention
¾ Irritation and toxicity
¾ Dandruff control
9 Microbiological assay
9 Eye irritancy test
1. Foam and foam stability:
• The Ross‐Miles foam column test is accepted. 200 ml of surfactant
solution is dropped into a glass column containing 50ml of the same
solution. The height of the foam generated is measured immediately
and again after a specified time interval, and is considered proportional
to the volume.
• Barnett and Powers developed a latherometer to measure the effect of
variables such as water hardness, type of soil and quantity of soil on
foam speed, volume and stability.
• Fredell and Read titrated actual standard oiled heads of hair with
additive increments of shampoo until a persistent lather end point
appeared.
2. Detergency and cleaning action:
• Cleansing power is evaluated by the method of Barnet and Powers
• 5gm sample of soiled human hair is placed at 35°c in 200 cc of water
containing of 1 gm of shampoo.
• The flask is shaken 50 times a minute for 4 minutes. Then washed once
again with sufficient amount of water, then after filter the hair dried
and weighed.
• The amount of soil is removed under these condition is calculated.
3. Wetting Action:
• Canvas disk sinking test: A mount veron cotton duck # 6 canvas disk 1
inch in diameter, is floated on the surface of a solution, and the time
required for it to sink is measured accurately.

4. Rinsing:
• Skilled beauticians are employed to make comparisons on the
performance of several shampoos.

5. Conditioning Action:
• Conditioning action is a difficult property to assess. This is because it is
basically dependent on subjective appraisal.
• No method has been published for measuring conditioning action.
• The degree of conditioning given to hair is ultimately judged by
shampoo user who is making the evaluation on the basis of past
experience and present expectations.
6. Microbiological assay:
‰ PREPARATION OF PRE‐INOCULUM Take the loopful culture of
staphylococcus aureus (ATCC6532) aseptically and transfer to
sterilized and cooled 100 ml SCDM (broth).
• Mix well. Incubate the broth at 37oC for 24 hrs.
‰ PREPARATION OF MEDIA Soya bean casein digests medium, soya
bean casein digest agar and nutrient agar.
‰ PREPARATION OF POUR PLATES Sterilized SCD agar (100 ml) is
cooled to 40°C and mixed with 5 ml of 24 hrs old pre inoculated
culture.
• This is immediately poured in plates (340 ml each) and allows to
set.
‰ MAKING THE WELLS ON AGAR PLATES The wells are dig on agar
plates with sterilised well digger aseptically.
• Take 100µml of each sample, add to well aseptically. Incubate the
plates at 37oC for 24 hrs to 48 hrs.
• Observe the effectiveness of sample on culture growing on the agar
plate and we can see the effectiveness of sample in the form of
zone of inhibition around each well containing different sample.
7. Evaluation of eye irritancy:
• The test calls for dropping 0.1 ml of liquid shampoo in the 
conjunctiva sac of one eye of the rabbit , the other eye serving as 
control. 
• In the case of the first three animals, the treated eye remains 
unwashed. Since washing the eye may or may not alleviate 
symptoms of injury. 
• The six remaining animals are divided into two equal groups. 
• In the first of these groups eyes instilled with the substances are 
washed with 20 ml of lukewarm water two seconds after 
treatment and in the second group after instillation. 
• Readings are then made at 24, 48 and 72 hr and again four and 
seven days after treatment. 
• If the lesions have not cleared up in seven days the test material is 
considered as severe irritant. 
8. Viscosity:
• Viscosity of the liquid shampoo is determined using a Brookefield
viscometer
• 100 mL of the shampoo is taken in a beaker and the spindle is 
dipped in it for about 5 min and then the reading is taken. 
 References
1. Balsam, S.M., Gershon, S.D., Rieger, M.M., Sagarin, E., and Strianse, S.J.: COSMETICS–
Science and Technology, 2nd edition, Vol‐2, John Wiley India, New Delhi, 2008
2. Barel, A.O., Paye, M., and Maibach, H.I.: Handbook of Cosmetic Science and
Technology, 3rd Edition, Informa Healthcare, New York.
3. Sharma, P.P.: COSMETICS ‐ Formulation, Manufacturing and Quality Control, 4th
Edition, Vandana Publishers Pvt. Ltd., New Delhi, March 1998.
4. Butler, H.: POUCHER’S – Perfumes, Cosmetics & Soaps, 10th Edition, Springer,
Cockermouth, Cumbria, USA, 2000.
5. Salador, A., and Chisvert, A.: Analysis of cosmetic products, Elsevier, New York, 2006.
6. Ross, J., and Miles, G.D.: An application for comparison of foaming properties of
soaps and detergents, Oil and Soap, 1941.
7. Mittal,: A Handbook of Cosmetics
8. Fredell, W.G., and Powers, D.H.: Factors attributing to the performance of shampoos
and to consumer acceptance, Proc. Sci. Sec., 1955.
9. Rajkumar, K. J., Invitro evaluation of shampoos.
10. www.cosmeticdatabase.com