OPEN SESAME

LAMB TAJINE,
MARRAKECH
MOROCCAN CAFÉ
AND GRILL
 •PAGE 43•

These 49 international eateries, markets,

and festivals bring the authentic flavors
and traditions of more than 30 countries
and five continents to the Queen City.

by Katie Coburn, John Fox, Kara Hagerman,

Patrick Murphy, Kaileigh Peyton,
Kevin Schultz, and Amanda Boyd Walters
photographs by wes battoclette
 key =mild =takeout
friendly

=spicy

KOREAN

Riverside Korean
To get the full experience here, come hungry. That’s be-
cause the enormously portioned rice bowls, like the dolsot
bibimbap (which, for the record, you should order), are really
only part of the meal. Prior to the main dish arrives six min-
iature appetizers—or banchan—spanning pickled and fer-
mented vegetables (like über-spicy kimchi); soy-marinated
black beans; sweet, steamed potatoes; and others. Save room
for the bibimbap: Filled with your choice of protein, bean
sprouts, carrots, and other veggies, and topped with a fried
egg, its served in a stone bowl heated to approximately hotter
than Hades so the rice sizzles and pops its way to a heavenly
crunchy crust. 512 Madison Ave., Covington, (859) 291-
1484, riversidekoreanrestaurant.com

NEPALI
Bridges Nepali Cuisine SHARED PLATE
•PAGE 44•

BULGOGI JUN GOL

Nepal may be tiny, but its flavors are big, FOR TWO, RIVER-
influenced by bordering nations China and SIDE KOREAN.
India. They skew to the latter, but they’re not
exactly the same. To get an idea, the rice bowls
are a smorgasbord of everything you need to try:
Impossibly long grains of aromatic basmati rice
fill the bottom; a scoop each of yellow peas and
yellow lentils are the soupy filling; chicken tikka
masala (tomato-cream-curry grilled chicken),
hakku chuala (spicy marinated, grilled, and chilled
chicken), or marinated pork chili are layered on;
and a scoop of curried mixed veggies (potatoes,
carrots, peas, broccoli, and cauliflower) is the
cherry on top. 4165 Hamilton Ave., Northside,
(513) 374-9354, bridgesnorthside.weebly.com

MEXICAN
Veracruz Mexican Grill
The phrase “best Mexican food in town” often
gets thrown around about this place. Pay a visit
and you’ll see that’s no coincidence. The freshness
of the ingredients, the authenticity of the menu,
and the friendliness of owner Pablo Aulis and
his family, who go out of their way to make you
feel like a VIP, are a winning combination. If the GLOBAL MARKET
service doesn’t make you feel warm and fuzzy, Dean’s Mediterranean Imports
the ostentatious display of the sizzling, steaming Bulk bins of nuts, beans, rice, flour, dried fruit, spices,
shrimp fajitas—crustaceans jutting from the cast- and sweets almost overwhelm the senses inside this busy spot
iron skillet on skewers—will surely do it for you. across from Findlay Market, run by the second generation of the
Modest in stature (but not flavor), the tostadas Zaidan family (read more about them on page 66). Carryout wraps
and enchiladas are equally worth a try. 3108 Price
and bowls are available from the counter. 108 W. Elder St., Over-
Ave., East Price Hill, (513) 244-1757, facebook. the-Rhine, (513) 241-8222, mediterranean-imports.com
com/veracruzmexicangrill
 MEDITERRANEAN
SOUL
POCKETS
Truva Café
An unassuming storefront in a Kroger shopping
center yields a surprisingly warm and cozy family
restaurant focused on Turkish-based versions of Every culture has some sort of
Mediterranean favorites like kebabs, couscous, dumpling or stuffed hand pie.
hummus, and falafel. Spicy lentil soup and stuffed Here’s a sampler platter.
grape leaves are a great start to dinner, followed —AMANDA BOYD WALTERS

by a variety of lamb, beef, and chicken kebabs; a

hearty okra stew and other vegetarian options; or Dragon Breath wontons,
a very cheesy and filling shrimp casserole. A bas- Amerasia The pork-filled, hand-
ket of warm pita bread is perfect with every dish shaped, steamed wontons are good on
or by itself, and don’t skip the Turkish coffee. Wine their own, but it’s the spicy, thick sauce
is BYOB, so be sure to bring a bottle for the table. on top—peppers, chiles, spices—that
4122 Hunt Rd., Blue Ash, (513) 791-0763 might have you breathing fire (OK, we
exaggerate a little). 521 Madison Ave.,
THAI Covington, (859) 261-6121, facebook.com/
Lemon Grass KungFoodChu
Featuring a larger menu than most Thai restau-
rants, Lemon Grass dazzles with creativity inside Four-way pierogies,
a modest storefront just down from Rookwood Babushka Pierogies You
can get regular pierogies, stuffed with
Pavilion. The namesake Lemon Grass soup (a
combination of spicy and sweet with mushrooms) potatoes, at Babushka’s walk-up window
is just one of 12 soup starters, followed by almost near 12th and Main, but these Cincinnati-
20 appetizers (try the Crab Crispies wontons or chili flavored versions (made with lentils!)
fried corn cakes) and salads. A wide array of main are our favorites. 1200 Main St., Over-the-
dishes and specials will make heads spin among Rhine, (513) 381-3739, babushkapierogies.
meat-eaters (five roasted duck entrées) and com
vegetarians (tasty curries, loads of rice and egg
noodles) alike. Choose your spice level for main Bad Girl empanada, Empa-
dishes, from 1 to 10, and expand your options nadas Aqui Roasted chicken, pep-

•PAGE 45•
exponentially. 2666 Madison Rd., Hyde Park, (513) pers, and onions, plus cheese, wrapped
inside slightly sweet dough, then fried
321-2882, lemongrasscincy.com
until the outside is crisp with bubbles.
Whenever we spot the green Empanadas
SENEGALESE Aqui bus at events, we know it’s good to be
bad. (513) 462-5523, empanadasaqui.com
Sene Grill
Whether it’s the Senegalese pop music playing Momos, Bridges Nepali
or the native Wolof language chatter between Cuisine They look like any old
servers, Sene Grill is another world. Start by dumpling, but inside these housemade
sampling the various house-made juices, from pockets, you’ll find ground chicken or
the sweet tea-like kinkeliba to the richly addic- ground vegetables, with a spice profile
tive bouye juice (close to a strawberry banana (hello, ginger and cumin) that reminds
smoothie, and strained right from the West you these are not any old dumplings. 4165
African baobab tree). Skip the burgers and Hamilton Ave., Northside, (513) 374-9354,
wings and order the yassa, a mound of sautéed bridgesnorthside.weebly.com
onions, chopped tomatoes, and green peppers
on steamed rice with a fall-off-the-bone tender Vegetarian arepa, The
marinated tilapia. And yes, we mean that literally. Arepa Place These Colombian
So take your time, sip your kinkeliba slowly, and and Venezuelan treats are stuffed with
give thanks Sene Grill calls Cincinnati home. 10120 goodies, rather than filled. Housemade
Princeton Glendale Rd., West Chester, (513) 805- arepas (like tortillas, but way more
7793, cincinnati.ordersenegrill.com
substantial) are split like pitas to house
your choice of meats and veggies. We
like plantains in ours. Who knew? 131 W.
Elder St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 744-9500,
arepaplace.com

I L L U S T R A T I O N B Y R YA N S N O O K
 FINGER FOOD PAPPADO CHAAT (LEFT) AND TANDOORI
LAMB CHOPS (RIGHT), INDIAN SPICE TRAIN.

INDIAN
GLOBAL MARKET Indian Spice Train
Saigon Market
•PAGE 46•

If Indian restaurants come in tiers, this is among the top: Its menu is expansive, its
As with Dean’s, this tiny
storefront market sits across from the atmosphere refined, and its service personal—don’t be surprised if owner Manbir
main markethouse at Findlay Market. Dhillon checks on you at your table. If you’re not a fan of spice, ease in with the mango
Aisles are jammed with Asian sauces, dish and its blend of sweet, savory, and slightly spicy curry, alongside a charred and
cooking oils, potted meat, tea, noodles, buttered naan. For the more spice-inclined, the king of heat here is the Chicken 65,
and frozen foods, plus 25-pound sacks of
a boneless dish marinated and deep-fried with a more than 15-spice blend, ensuring
rice for when friends drop by. 119 W. El-
der St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 721-8053 you’ll break a sweat. Ask for an order of limes and raita (a spiced yogurt with fresh cu-
cumbers) to temper your tongue, and trust that your waiter will refill your water glass
a few more times. 7165 Liberty Centre Dr., West Chester, (513) 777-7800, indianspice
train.com

VIETNAMESE MEDITERRANEAN/LEBANESE COLOMBIAN

Pho Lang Thang Andy’s Mediterranean Zona Vip
Pho Lang Thang’s steamy dining room Bar and Grille Zona Vip’s expansive menu of Colombian
may make your eyes water, but their giant Imagine Cheers on the Mediterranean coast, street food offers everything from hot dogs
bowls of piping hot pho (rice noodle soup) and you’ll get a good sense of the atmosphere and hamburgers to traditional soups and
are totally worth the annoyance. Choose beef at Andy’s. As for the food? Let’s just say almost rice dishes. The most popular is the bandeja
(bò), chicken (gà), or vegan (chay) broth and a every entrée is hearty enough to pair with a paisa, a large platter of rice, beans, avocado,
meat or veggie combination. Our go-to is the beer (perhaps the Lebanese Almaza?). Case in fried egg, plantain, arepa (a cornmeal-based
pho bò with tái (thinly sliced rare steak). The point: the spanakopita, filled with spinach and bread), and various meats. For something a
salty broth is garnished with cilantro, onions, feta cheese, is deep-fried instead of baked, but little lighter, we suggest the arepa filled with
and scallions; and a side of bean sprouts, fresh served with enough tzatziki sauce not to weigh beef, corn, cheese, and avocado. Picture an
herbs, jalapeños, and lime wedges lets you you down. The pièce de résistance? A four-hour English muffin stuffed with meat, veggies,
add flavor. The sizeable bánh mì (sandwiches) roasted lamb shank swimming in a house and cheesy goodness. We also enjoyed the
and meaty cha giò (fried spring rolls) don’t dressing somewhere between a barbecue chorizo mazorca desgranada, a pile of grilled
disappoint, either. This summer, PLT plans to and hot sauce, paired with steamed rice and corn, potato sticks, and chorizo smothered
move into a new space on Race Street. Fingers ground chunks of lamb. Finish your meal with in mozzarella and a mayonnaise-ketchup
crossed for better ventilation. 114 W. Elder St., authentic Lebanese coffee to avoid a post-meal sauce. Street food never tasted so good. 11512
Over-the-Rhine, (513) 376-9177, pholangthang. nap. 906 Nassau St., Walnut Hills, (513) 281- Springfield Pike, Springdale, (513) 772-2444,
com 9791, andyskabob.com zonavipoh.com
 BEVERAGES
NON-ALCOHOLIC

FROM ABROAD
GUATEMALAN
Taqueria San Marcos
Horchata Pitcher
To quell the spice brought on by this Cen-
tral American spot’s spices, order a pitcher
of horchata for two. It’s a smooth rice- and
milk-based drink with vanilla and cinnamon These refreshments—alcoholic and non—have
flavors. Perfect to cool down on a summer
day—or after a few too many tacos. 5201 delicious origins from around the globe.
Carthage Ave., Norwood, (513) 351-1363

TAIWANESE
Boba Cha Bubble Tea
A product of 1980s Taiwan, bubble tea—a
tea-based drink with or without milk and
the addition of small tapioca balls—has
swept across the world as its popularity has
grown. Boba Cha is our go-to purveyor. Try
the coconut milk tea with fruit-flavored pop
bobas. 1606 Main St, Over-the-Rhine, (513)
421-9111

INDIAN
Dusmesh Mango Lassi
Lassi is the perfect counterpart to
sometimes-heavy North Indian fare. Fresh
yogurt is blended with chilled mangos and
rose water to create this sweet but refresh-
ing take on the popular dahi-based drink
that originated in India. 944 Ludlow Ave.,
Clifton, (513) 221-8900, dusmeshcincy.com

ALCOHOLIC
KOREAN
3501 Seoul’s Dalnim
In Korean mythology, Dalnim is the god of
the moon. At 3501 Seoul, it’s a soju cocktail
sweetened with Soho (a lychee liqueur),
crushed lychee and black cherry, and lemon
and cherry juices. Its floral flavors are truly
out of this world. 3501 Erie Ave., Hyde Park,
(513) 873-9181, 3501seoul.com

ITALIAN
A Tavola’s Limoncello
Made with lemon peel, sugar, and Ever-
clear, A Tavola’s housemade limoncello is
a zesty alternative to dessert. The thick,
syrup-like after dinner drink is served
in a chilled glass and is even said to aid
digestion. Over-the-Rhine and Madeira,
atavolapizza.com

BRAZILIAN
Maize’s Caipirinha
What is Brazil’s national cocktail doing on
the menu at Maize, a Venezuelan restau-
rant? We’re not sure, but the caipirinha’s
mixture of cachaça (a sugar cane liquor),
lime, and simple syrup is equally refreshing
and tasty. 1438 Race St., Over-the-Rhine,
(513) 381-1608, maizeotr.com

P H O T O G R A P H B Y A A R O N M . C O N W AY
 MOROCCAN GLOBAL MARKET
Marrakech Moroccan La Mexicana Grocery
Enter through the restaurant or
Cafe & Grill via a separate door off the back parking lot, and
You might wonder if a North African version of Mediterranean staples you’ll find a packed selection of imported Mexi-
can and Guatemalan grocery items, including
like falafel, gyros, couscous, and pita bread is different enough from its
canned and frozen food, snacks, and cleaning
Greek, Turkish, and Middle Eastern cousins to merit a visit, and the answer supplies. A small deli and meat counter features
is a definite yes. The falafel plate is a perfect vegetarian sampler, while two fresh bread from La Antigua bakery. 642 Mon-
meat-friendly standouts are Lamb Tajine, steamed inside a clay pot with mouth St., Newport, (859) 261-6112
vegetables until the lamb basically falls off the bone, and Bastilla, a savory
chicken pie in a flaky crust topped with cinnamon and sugar. The baklava
dessert is served warm and melts in your mouth. Alcohol is no-go for this
spot. 341 Ludlow Ave., Clifton, (513) 442-2233
•PAGE 48•
 behind the counter
CAMBODIAN
Mahope
Meaning “food” in Cambodian, Mahope is
the name of the Northside eatery co-owner
and head chef Vy Sok started as a food cart
two years ago. Sok, who fled Cambodia with
her family during civil unrest in the 1970s,
cooks traditional dishes, such as egg rolls,
bone broth kathiew (beef noodle soup),
and chicken nom pang (sandwiches). We
especially enjoyed the curry palay, a rice dish
with veggies and a coconut milk–based curry,
and the smoky jumbo chicken wings grilled
MEAT EATERS GYRO in a slightly sweet beet-based marinade. The
(LEFT) AND LAMB cheesecake taco with fresh strawberries was
KEBAB PLATE (RIGHT),
MARRAKECH MOROC- also a standout. For the herbivores among
CAN CAFÉ AND GRILL. us, Mahope’s menu offers an equal number
of vegetarian and meat-filled options. 3935
Spring Grove Ave., Northside, (513) 499-7176,
facebook.com/vysmahope/

INDIAN
Amol India Carry Out
Restaurant
You may drive around the block a second
time before finding this classic North Indian
eatery. Park on the street and enter through
a small, intimate seating area where you can
order from a server or, as the name implies,
step up to the counter and place your order to-
go. Whether on plate or in a takeout container,

•PAGE 49•
expect fine execution of various curries such

Sergio Gutierrez
as the lamb and chicken, with a generous nod
to the vindaloos (cubed potatoes with a spicy
chili powder sauce). But keep an eye out for

Gutierrez Deli
the Tandoori Chicken, a slow-roasted serving
of two thighs and legs with a mildly spicy skin.
Between the quick service and reliability, Born in New Jersey and raised in Mexico, this Covington
Amol makes the second spin around the block transplant wants to share his culture with you.
worth taking. 527 York St., Newport, (859) 261-
2317, amolindiacarryoutnewport.com
When did your people from your has their own trait.
family move to town? Like, this family has
ETHIOPIAN/ERITREAN
the U.S.? A lot of the people farms, so they’ve
All of my family is from there are here. got the cows, the
Habesha Café & from Mexico . . .a little There’s a group, they milk, the cheese. My
Restaurant town called Axutla. call it the Axutla family is known for
This go-to Ethiopian/Eritrean spot deliv- My dad was 13 when group . . . [everyone] cooking. Over there
ers a world of its own. Walk into the dive-y he came up here—you throws in money, and we cook the meat
strip-mall storefront and take a seat in front know, the American then we send it back underground, and
of the performance stage. After paging Dream—they came to help people in our anytime there’s a big
through the large, expansive menu, ask the up here to work. His town. . .. That’s why party, my grandpa
server for recommendations—beef, chicken, goal was always to people come here, is the guy that they
or veggie. We opted for veggie and received have something [of because they want to call. My grandma
the Yetsom Beyaynetu: A colorful circle of his own]. I was born help their families. makes the mole, and
varying vegetarian piles on a large round of in Jersey, but my she sells it by the kilo
injera, a sourdough-risen flatbread with a soft mom took me back Who taught you down there. It’s her
and spongy texture used in place of utensils. to Mexico because to cook? specialty.
Each injera-scooped bite presents tomato-y, she wanted me to be My grandma was a —KAILEIGH PEYTON
turmeric-y, or lentil-forward flavors that will raised there. I’ve only big influence for us
leave you curiously excited for a second trip— been in the states for to be in the food busi- Gutierrez Deli, 1131
just wash your hands before digging in. 5070 about 13 years. ness. In Mexico, ev- Lee St., Covington,
Crookshank Rd., Westwood, (513) 429-4890, erybody in our town— (859) 431-3354,
habesharestaurantandcafe.com Do you stay in it’s still like back in facebook.com/
touch with the the day—everybody gutierrezdeli

GUTIERREZ PHOTOGRAPH BY JEREMY KRAMER

 PANCIT
(MIXED NOODLES)
PAGE 50

LECHON
PORK
BELLY
GARLIC
BOK CHOY
 FUN
FESTS
Get a taste of a faraway place
at these local celebrations.
—KARA HAGERMAN
Asian Food Fest
Red Sesame, Pho Lang Thang, and Boba
Cha, among others, serve their Asian
specialties at this food-focused festival,
which also features Asian beer and live
entertainment. May 11–12, The Banks,
downtown, asianfoodfest.org

Taste of Lebanon
Sample Mediterranean food like tab-
bouleh, falafel, and baklava, and catch
lively performances of belly dancing and
dabke, a Levantine folk dance. June 2,
St. Anthony of Padua Maronite Catholic
Church, East Walnut Hills, (513) 961-0120,
thetasteoflebanon.com
LONGANISA
(SAUSAGE)
Panegyri Greek Festival
Now in its 45th year, Panegyri is always
packed with festivalgoers enjoying gyros,

•PAGE 51•
TILAPIA souvlaki (pork tenderloin skewers), and
honey-drenched baklava, while children
dance to the Greek bouzouki music. June
28–30, Holy Trinity-St. Nicholas Greek
Orthodox Church, Finneytown, (513) 591-
0030, holytrinity.oh.goarch.org/panegyri

Taste of India
The Naach Sitare dance competition,
ADOBO CHICKEN which showcases a diverse mix of Indian
dance styles, is a big deal at this festival.
Also, devour Indian delicacies and shop for
clothing and jewelry. September 14, Hindu
Temple of Greater Cincinnati, tasteofindia
cincinnati.com

Kamayan Filipino Feast

For a party or large gathering, experience
the colorful, communal Filipino feast, where
foods are beautifully placed on the table atop
banana leaves and eaten without utensils. Dai
Trang Bistro, West Chester, (513) 860-3777,
daitrangbistrooh.com

P H OTO G R A P H S BY J O N AT H A N W I L L I S
•PAGE 52•
 behind the counter
PERUVIAN

Sam Raya Sabor Peruano

Raya Lebanese Restaurant
Seafood is a major feature of Peruvian cuisine, and Sabor
offers almost 30 entrées featuring tilapia, trout, shrimp,
Sam Raya emigrated from Syria to Cincinnati 13 years ago. mussels, squid, and/or octopus—with multiple variations
For the past 11 years, she’s cooked her mother’s Lebanese rec- of ceviche, diced raw (and sometimes cooked) fish marinated
ipes for downtown diners to support her family back home. and cured in lime juice and served with boiled sweet pota-
toes. Like their compadres in Argentina and Brazil, Peruvians
What brought were, it was just like Yeah. They love kafta
love their beef, and you’ll find a number of bistec (beef steak)
you to Kentucky and Cincin- and kibbeh. Those
Cincinnati? nati, with a river are the famous Leba-
dishes here; a filling starter, or meal in itself, is the Papa Rel-
My husband first between. He passed nese dishes. lena, which stuffs seasoned ground beef and a hard-boiled
came here before away in 2011. egg inside a pillow of mashed potatoes. Dancing and live
me, so I followed Why is it so bands add to the atmosphere on weekends. 7245 Dixie Hwy.
him.... He had Leba- Where did you important to you (Route 4), Fairfield, (513) 860-0349
nese friends who told learn to cook? to be hands-on,
him, “Cincinnati’s In our country, we cooking in your
cheap, Cincinnati’s all cook at home; we restaurant?
quiet,” and he moved cook every day for Because I have a
here. I came and our kids. I know from good heart and
visited in 2001, and I my mom; she’s a very I make fresh,
came for one month, good cook. Her food homemade food . .. I
then went back, and I is best—better than don’t buy cheap stuff
did that every year. In anybody. Everybody because I eat it, so I
2006, I said, “I don’t has their own ideas don’t want to cheat
want to go back.” and tastes, and hers myself.
is very good. —KAILEIGH PEYTON
You emigrated
from Syria? Do your Leba- Raya Lebanese

•PAGE 53•
My family is nese diners tell Restaurant, 801 Elm
Lebanese, but my you your food St., downtown, (513)
husband was Syr- reminds them 421-0049, raya
ian.. .. Syria and of their family’s lebaneserestuarant.
Lebanon, where we cooking? weebly.com

WEST AFRICAN
Darou Salem African Halal
Next to Northside Tavern, behind a large outdoor patio in the
former Picnic and Pantry spot, sits Darou Salem African Halal. Don’t
let its obscure exterior fool you—its Senegalese dishes are worth the
visit. Order from a menu at the counter or simply point to one of nine
enlarged photos on the wall. We enjoyed the dibi (grilled lamb) dinner
entrée: A heaping pile of seasoned, tender lamb pieces, topped with
sliced onions lightly sautéed in a mustard-base sauce. Although the
fried plantains tasted slightly overdone, Darou Salem’s generous por-
tions and low prices made up for any dissatisfaction. 4163 Hamilton
Ave., Northside, (513) 681-3663

SICHUAN
I’M STUFFED
Sichuan Chili PAPA RELLENA GLOBAL MARKET
One of the city’s most authentic and tasty, yet often overlooked, WITH TOSTONES,
Marina’s
SABOR PERUANO.
spots for Sichuan cuisine sits in a seemingly benign strip mall adja-
International Deli
cent to CAM International Market. Take a seat at Sichuan Chili, ask for In a strip mall in the Harper’s Point
the authentic instead of Americanized menu, and prepare for a treat. area, you’ll find Eastern European food
Start with the classic scallion pancakes or dumplings with chili oil items and cultural connections, from
(some of the best we’ve had). Then order the Sichuan Bo Bo Chicken Ukrainian and Serbian pierogies to Pol-
and prepare for the heat. As with most Sichuan cuisine, in addition to ish and Estonian candy to German pasta
its chicken, scallions, and pickled cucumber, this dish is filled to the to Russian-language newspapers, plus
brim with Sichuan peppercorns. Feel free to indulge, but remember: fresh sausages, salami, fish, and bread.
Do not eat the peppercorns. 10400 Reading Rd., Evendale, (513) 376- 11426 Montgomery Rd., Symmes Town-
7223, sichuanchili.com ship, (513) 469-6100, marinas-deli.com

R AYA P H O T O G R A P H B Y J E R E M Y K R A M E R
 SPLIT
DECISIONS
When you’re craving two eateries,
why choose just one? Mix-and-match
cuisines at these fusion favorites.
—PATRICK MURPHY

ETHIOPIAN INDIAN

Awaze Tibs with Naan

Elephant Walk
This Ethiopian and Indian bar and grill’s
two-sided menu is expansive, so don’t get lost.
Order the Indian saag paneer for its creamy,
cheesy flavor, then flip the menu and get the
Ethiopian awaze tibs for its fiery kick. Now,
revel in the limitless combinations for dinners
to come. 170 W. McMillan St., Clifton Heights,
(513) 526-1555, elephantwalkcincy.com
•PAGE 54•

SOUTH
ASIAN AMERICAN

Mexi Pad Thai

Lalo
Mexican pad Thai? Curry cauliflower tacos?
This Asian and South American menu may
have you scratching your head at first, but the
savory sourness and spicy sweetness of each
cuisine makes for an overall balanced bite. 709
Main St., downtown, (513) 381-5256, lalocincin
nati.com MEDITERRANEAN VENEZUELAN
Leyla Mediterranean Maize Arepas and Bar
For nearly two and a half years, Chef/Owner The flavors of Venezuela, Puerto Rico, and
Comert Ardic—previously in the kitchen at the the Caribbean shine at Maize, where corn plays
now-closed Haci Grill in West Chester—has a central role in most dishes (good news for
delivered Mediterranean specialties in this the gluten-averse). The cachapa, a Venezu-
ITALIAN ARGENTINEAN small outpost on the edge of Anderson Towne elan crumpet, is more akin to a spoonbread
Centre. The kebabs and mixed grill plates are pancake, sweet and studded with kernels. We
hearty, but you can make a meal from the tried the reina pepiada, topped with avocado
appetizers. The cold appetizer platter for four chicken salad. It’s also available as an arepa,
comes with a silky, garlic-y hummus; gloriously but we wanted the pabellón, which gave us
Braised Short Rib Ravioli smoky baba ghanoush; creamy-tart lebne; a taste of shredded beef, black beans, and
more eggplant in a rich tomato sauce; spicy plantains (also available in a large plate ver-
Alfio’s Buon Cibo acili ezme (tomatoes, nuts, onions, and hot sion). For the empanada, we chose the chicken
Get your Italian with an Argentinean twist. Try peppers); and carrot tarator, shredded carrots tossed in sofrito—juicy and meaty inside its
the empanada cuatro, four flaky Argentinian mixed with garlic yogurt that reminded us extra-crispy shell. 1438 Race St., Over-the-
empanadas stuffed with spiced beef, cheese, of pimento cheese (really). 7418 Beechmont Rhine, (513) 381-1608, maizeotr.com
and peppers with rich chimichurri, or the Ave., Suite 106, Anderson Twp., (513) 231-2888,
toasted five cheese and Angus ravioli, draped
leylamediterranean.com
in heady tomato sauce. 2724 Erie Ave., Hyde
Park, (513) 321-0555, alfios-cincy.com
 behind the counter

Steven &
Rachel Sun
Fortune Noodle House
The Suns serve authentic Chinese hand-pulled noodles that
keep customers coming back.

What brought What made you thousands of years of

you to the U.S. decide to open a history in China. [We
from China? restaurant? thought,] Why can’t
In China, I went to My wife Rachel. She we do this in Cincin-
medical school back used to be a full-time nati? In China, South-
in 1984. . . and prac- mom staying at home ern countries focus
ticed [focusing on with our kids…. We more on seafood, like
spinal cord injury] for don’t have any young Cantonese, and more
nine and a half years. kids [anymore], rice dishes because of
The Chinese govern- so Rachel wanted the warmer weather,
ment had a program to do something. I where they can
at the time sending said, “What is your grow the rice. In the
young physicians, passion?” and she Northern region, they
scientists, teachers, said, “My passion is can only grow wheat
and professors over- cooking and serving to make the flour, [so]
seas.. .. I first landed people.” that’s why noodles
at medical school in are so predominant.
Wisconsin as a visit- How did you —KAILEIGH PEYTON
ing scholar.. . . We settle on Chinese
fell in love with this noodles, specifi- Fortune Noodle
country, and we just cally? House, 349 Calhoun

•PAGE 55•
decided to stay. She had this idea.... St., Clifton Heights,
Hand-pulled noodles (513) 281-1800,
are a very com- fortune
mon [method] with noodles.com

MEXICAN AFRICAN MEXICAN

Taqueria Valle Verde Teranga Restaurant La Canasta
When we wandered into Valle Verde, we Teranga describes its cuisine as a fusian of If you’re on the hunt for authentic Mexican
found lengua, tripa, and cabeza tacos; specials African and American, but the African influ- (not an easy find), turns out it’s on the west
listed in Spanish; and a table full of men in ences are strong. Senegal-born owner Mor side at La Canasta. Meander through grocery
work boots chatting over large, emptied plates. Diallo created a diverse lineup with signature aisles stocked with Mexican foods to the
The menu is deep, with a slew of seafood op- dishes from his home country, like thiebou back, where you’ll grab one of a few tables
tions, including a whole fried fish. We tried the yap, a tender marinated lamb served with rice, and receive super-friendly service. You can’t
Cuban torta, with thin shavings of steak and and maffe, lamb in a creamy peanut butter go wrong with the tacos, small but full of
curls of Mexican sausage along with deli ham, and tomato sauce. There’s also Jamaican fare steak, chicken, or a pork marinade made with
mustard, mayo, and lettuce on a football-sized (the jerk chicken is delightfully spicy), whole pineapple. There’s also sopes, platillos, and
roll. The real stars? Those specials. Pupusas, fish dishes, and delicious fried plantains. As tortas, but we devoured the huarache, a simple
cornmeal flatbreads from El Salvador, come for American fare: The chicken wings in garlic, handmade tortilla that was delicately crispy on
stuffed with beans, chicharrones, and chorizo. barbecue, hot, or sweet chili sauce are, not sur- the outside but soft at the center, topped with
The gordita—a split, fried tortilla lined with prisingly, a huge hit. Teranga’s bright, colorful a thin layer of beans, lettuce, and shredded
beans and stuffed with tender pork chunks, to- space has tables, but takeout traffic is steady— cheese, which we enjoyed with a cold imported
matoes, lettuce, and cheese proved more than either way, you’ll finish with leftovers. 8438 lime soda while the Spanish-speaking TV
a handful. 6711 Vine St., Carthage, no phone Vine St., Hartwell, (513) 821-1300, terangacinci. played in the background. 7812 Colerain Ave.,
com White Oak, (513) 931-1804

SUN PHOTOGRAPHS BY JEREMY KRAMER

 GLOBAL MARKET
Jagdeep’s
Indian Grocery
Easily accessible to UC’s interna-
tional students and fans of Clifton’s
Indian restaurants, Jagdeep’s offers a
surprisingly robust selection of fresh
fruits, vegetables, herbs, and spices,
in addition to shelves of curry mixes,
packaged rice, and heat-and-eat
meals. 270 Ludlow Ave., Clifton, (513)
961-2699

JAPANESE
Ando Japanese
Restaurant and
Sushi Bar
The dining room at Ando is always busy,
even on weeknights, with guests who’ve
discovered Chef Ken Ando’s expertly crafted
traditional Japanese cuisine—he’s been at this
for more than 40 years—and the restaurant’s
welcoming environment. The fish takes center
stage in sushi rolls, meticulously presented
and bursting with flavor (grab a seat at the
sushi bar to watch it all happen). We also
enjoyed soba noodles, thick and textured in a
homemade broth with scallions and spinach.
•PAGE 56•

For $39.50, you can order a nabemono dish,

sukiyaki (Wagyu strip loin) or shabu shabu
(beef, vegetables, noodles), cooked tableside
in a cast iron pot. When you experience Ando’s
impeccable attention to detail, you’ll see why
they recently celebrated 20 years in business.
5889 Pfeiffer Rd., Blue Ash, (513) 791-8687,
andojapaneserestaurant.com

NEPALI
Hamro Restaurant
There’s a good chance Hamro isn’t even on
your radar. If you love Indian food, we think
it should be. Opened in 2017 in a nondescript
strip mall space (home of the Forest Park Res-
taurant for 51 years), the restaurant prepares
solid Indian mainstays such as chicken tikka
masala and chicken biryani, a bold combi-
nation of aromatic basmati rice, chicken,
onions, peppers, and plenty of spice. The
Nepali-inspired offerings, however, make this
spot worth a trip. We sampled the vegetarian
momos, steamed dumplings with cabbage, on-
ions, and a masala spice mix, and the thukpa,
a hearty noodle soup with a slight heat. Family-
COUNTER
owned with friendly service, Hamro also has a SERVICE
Nepali grocery next door. 677 Northland Blvd., PASTOR, SHRIMP,
AND CHICKEN
Forest Park, (513) 429-5938 TACOS (LEFT) AND
BISTEC TORTA
(RIGHT), TAQUERIA
SAN MARCOS
 •PAGE 57•

GUATEMALAN

Taqueria San Marcos

Entering Taqueria San Marcos is like taking a step back in time. It’s a bare-bones, ’50s-
style diner with classic red booth seating and Formica table tops, where the Zacarias
family serves up hard-to-forget Guatemalan fare. The tacos are deliciously simple, with
options ranging from pulled pork to beef tongue, all served on small, warmed corn tor-
tillas with cilantro and onion. The crispy tortilla chips pair perfectly with the deep red,
thin salsa (it packs a powerfully spicy kick) or the refreshingly creamy guacamole. For a
heartier bite, try the chicken tortas, grilled chicken piled high on a large toasted bun with
lettuce, tomato, jalapeño, avocado, and—almost certainly—a to-go box. 5201 Carthage
Ave., Norwood, (513) 351-1363