Crankshaft Position Sensor BMW E39 (M52) replacement

Written by Paolo, 19th May 2012 - Sponsored by http://beardrock.com

I take no responsibility for accidents, deaths, things setting on fire, etc. from reading this guide

Symptoms:

Poor starting / Lack of power / Slight hesitation pulling away from junctions / Stalling intermittently /
Judders at idle / Error code

Fix:

New CKS from BMW part number 12 14 1 703 277, mine was £79+VAT from my local dealer, DO NOT
USE A CHEAPY – Genuine Part ONLY, otherwise you’ll be doing this again in a few months.

Is it definitely broken then?

BMW E39s have an error reporting system which is accessible via your local dealer or using a code
reader. These top level error codes can also be read via the dashboard OBC.

On earlier models such as my 1997 528i, with the ignition at position two, hold the mileage reset button
until test mode activates. Then press the button until you get to test number 19. Wait a second or two
and it will show an option of ‘off’ or ‘on’ – this is a lock function, you want to unlock so press the button
again when it shows ‘off’ – it will now return you to test number 1. Keep pressing until you get to test
number 14, as the computer goes in to this test, pressing the button again will cycle through any error
codes. The crankshaft position sensor code begins ‘83’ – I’m lucky and have no other errors to report on
my car.

How long does it take to replace?

For a first time effort, this is anywhere from 30 minutes to an hour – because if it is the first time you’ve
removed your radiator cooling fan and shroud, and first time you’ve put your arm up the backside of
your inlet manifold, then there’s a tiny learning curve of familiarity!

If you’ve been to those places before then this is a 15-20 minute job.

Any special tools needed?

No, but check your toolbox for a 32mm spanner, I couldn’t find mine when writing this up so ended up
using a pair of grips – but makes it easier if you’ve a thin 32mm or adjustable spanner/wrench, there are
some specifically designed for viscous fans too.
List of tools used

10mm socket
13mm socket
Flat blade screwdriver
Narrow nose pliers
32mm spanner
36mm spanner or oil filter socket
5mm allen key
Everyone’s friend, a big hammer, thin arms and long fingers are an advantage!
Some carrier bags and paper towels

Let’s get going, make sure you’re parked somewhere safe and start by examining the part you’ve just
purchased to make sure it is 100% damage free and ready to use.

Step 1
Disconnect the negative cable on your battery as a safety precaution, you’re going to be sticking your
hands near some electronics and it’s up to you but I consider this a wise move.
Step 2
Here’s the part we are replacing, take note that the connector plug is ‘keyed’ to only fit one way, so
when we remove the old one, mental note or take a photo of which way round it was facing.
Step 3
Remove the plastic clips at each end of your radiator fan surround. You’ll need to prise out (gently) the
pin section. The socket section comes out easily after that. Don’t drop these bits and keep them
somewhere safe.
Step 4
Viscous fan coupling, this is an opposite thread, so as you look towards the front of the car, you’ll be
placing your spanner pointing at 2 o’clock.

To loosen the coupling there’s a knack to this, once you’ve done it a couple of times you’ll be an expert.
If you’re struggling, you’re doing it wrong, take a break!
All you need to do is give the spanner a quick whack with a hammer so it rotates the coupling clockwise.
It won’t move far, but you’ll know when you’ve done it as it’ll loosen up nicely. If not loose, start again
until loose.
You’ll then be able to rotate the fan clockwise with your hands and the fan will come away from the
engine and can be lifted out at the same time as the surround.
There’s a knack to removing this, try the angle you see below in the photo and lift upwards gently and
make note of where all the plastic fixing bits catch on your radiator hoses, etc. – I can do this in my sleep
now but it took a fair number of tries to become the expert.
Step 5
The cable for your crankshaft position sensor is carefully routed. There is a plastic shield holding it in
place just above the thermostat housing, mine is held on by a couple of clips.

This is also a good opportunity to check your thermostat housing, mine has a small leak and it’s an easy
job and £3.00 part (BMW) to replace. Check your coolant hoses and belts at the same time, my belts are
in need of replacing as you will see. I’ll be replacing the water pump, hoses and thermostat too as
they’re due around this mileage and it is not expensive to do, but is expensive to fix when it all goes
wrong.
Step 6
Locate and disconnect the sensor end of the crankshaft position sensor. This part should slide out
reasonably easily and the same for the new one going in. OEM/Cheapo alternatives tend not to.
Step 7
This is optional, I can change the sensor blind, but removing the top cover of your engine will allow more
light in and for you to see (a little bit) better the connector you’re going to be working with. Each of
these bolts is 10mm and a small flat bladed screwdriver to remove the bolt covers. Don’t drop these bits
and when refitting, ensure it is on tight - otherwise the plastic will vibrate with the engine running.
Step 8
Remove the breather pipe which is a hard and not too flexible plastic so be careful to avoid breakages.
You’re going to need to remove the oil filter housing top, so a good idea to get a couple of carrier bags
ready to place this in to so to avoid dripping oil everywhere. I then place another carrier bag over the oil
filter housing to stop my elbow and arm getting covered in oil at the next stage.
Step 9
See the metal bracket with a hole through it, there are two bolts 13mm holding this in place, one is
attached to your thermostat housing. It is sensible to ensure the engine is cold and water not
pressurised. This bracket is your best friend for removing the old sensor cable/connector and re-routing
the new one, so loosen the bolts but you do not need to remove them.
Step 10
Here’s where the fun begins. I’ll explain first where the connectors are situated that your fingers are
going to have to manipulate all on their own.

Underneath the inlet manifold you’ll eventually find from looking, about half way along the engine are
two identical connectors sitting on a metal plate / bracket, and they slide off this bracket easily – which
you must avoid otherwise they’re a bugger to get back on again.

Anyone with experience of the E28 5-series will recognise this setup and was much easier to access on
older 5-series models.

It truly is a fiddly job the first time you do this. But take your time and it’s a doddle. Of the two
connectors, get familiar with the one furthest from the front of the car. On the rear of the connector
(bulkhead side) is a metal clip, press this in firmly and with your remaining fingers the connector will
remove nice and easy.

As you remove the connector, make a note of the direction it is facing because these are keyed and
only fit one way, it makes putting the replacement in much easier.
As you can see this is not the most comfortable of places to work. In the next photo I’ve demonstrated
which way the connector was fitting and a rough representation of the location.
Step 11
Now it is time to remove the old sensor behind the coolant pipe, in front of the thermostat housing and
the connector end through the gap in the bracket – which is quite fiddly, but being able to move the
bracket a little makes it much easier.

You do not need to force the cable through this small gap, if you are then you’re doing it wrong. It takes
a few attempts but gently rotate and push through the connector and it will all make sense.
Step 12
This next photo demonstrates the correct length of cable that should be at the sensor end, ensure you
firmly place the cable in to place inside the plastic shielding here because if it pops out when you’re
putting in place on the car, you’ll need to start again.
Step 13
Fitting the new connector. You’ll see in the photo that the sensor end of the cable and plastic shielding is
where to start with this part of the job. Your new sensor should slide firmly in to place where the old
one was, you can re-fit the allen key bolt now.

Route the wiring and shield over the top of the exit hose and place the shielding back in to place and re-
place the clips you removed earlier. This is to stop the cable coming out the shield whilst you’re about to
manipulate the connector and cable through the small gap again.
In this next photo I demonstrate the connector routing through the tiny gap and the direction it should
be facing to get through the gap properly.

Step 14
Now here’s the really fun part. You’re going to route this cable and connector directly under the inlet
manifold in a straight line and using the gaps on top of the inlet manifold for some visual clues.

Before doing this with the connector itself, do a dry run and locate the connector socket and place your
fingers around everything for familiarity, make sure the connecting socket is properly slid in to place on
its bracket, so that it doesn’t fall off when you’re making the connection.

So place the connector in whilst remembering the direction it needs to be facing. It should pop and clip
in place easily, it’s just a bit fiddly to get your hand working in that confined space. Do not force
anything, this part cost you just a few pound short of £100. Take your time and keep the faith, for
some of you this will go easy, for others it may take a few attempts.

You’re nearly done, keep reading just one more thing to note about the radiator fan...
Step 15
Put everything back where it came from and do a visual inspection of the engine bay for tools and
components.

To put the fan and shroud back in place can be awkward and you may get lucky or you may need a few
tries to get the angle of the shroud/surround just right, I’ve tried to demonstrate this on the next photo
but wasn’t easy holding the camera at the same time.

Remember we’re working with an opposite thread, so you’ll need to rotate anti clockwise as you face
the front of the car.

I find the easiest way once the shroud is fitted back in place with its plastic pin locks is to hold the fan
with one hand and rotate the viscous coupling with my thumb, just take your time and rotate a turn or
so and then you’ll be able to spin the fan anti-clockwise to re-fit back to normal. You can use your 32mm
spanner here to tighten but starting the engine will do the same job.
See next photo

Before you go closing the big lid, do a quick check for tools/parts, make sure we’re good to go.

Important last step

You’ve just recovered a shed load of horse power

You’ll definitely notice a much smoother idle (wine glass with water on top of engine is a good test)

The accelerator pedal will be immediately responsive with no scary moments pulling out at junctions.

Fourth gear going uphill on motorways is a thing of the past!

Enjoy!