First Page

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
CONTENT
CONTENT
INTRODUCTION
RISHAB SPINNING MILL
Rishab Spinning Mills, Jodhan is a Unit of Nahar Group of Companies, which was established in
the year 1991 with 25000 spindles and it has now 91104 spindles and is producing 55 tons of
cotton, Blended Melange and other various type of yarn. It is exporting its 60% products to
several countries like USA, UK, France, Netherlands, Japan, Canada, Korea, Taiwan, Hong-Kong,
Singapore, Egypt, Russia, Bangladesh and Sri Lanka. The bulk of the remaining 40% of the
production is used as captive consumption to meet the requirements of its own for knitting &
hosiery items which are exported to the above mentioned countries in the form of fabric and
Garments. The small residual quantity of yarn is sold in the domestic market. The Mill is
professionally managed and has adopted modern managerial techniques for selection,
recruitment, training/development and motivation of the entire workforce and enjoys very
pleasant, peaceful and harmonious industrial relations.

AWARDS : Certified By : B.I.S. New Delhi

1. ISO 9001: 2008 (Quality Management Sys.)

2. ISO14001: 2004(Environmental Management Sys.)
3. OEKO-TEX Standards 100(Shirley tech. Ltd. U.K.)
(Confidence in Textile, Tested for harmful
substance)

4. CONTROL UNION Certification (GOTS, OE & OCS)

5. ECO-CERT Certification (GOTS, OE & OCS)
6. USTERIZED (Uster tech. Switzerland)
(An authorization to use the Usterized by Uster tech)
7. COOLMAX(DuPont Inc., U.S.A)
NAME : Rishab Spinning Mills Ltd
BUSINESS : Manufacturing of 100% Cotton,
Blended Yarn & Slub Yarn
CORPORATE OFFICE : 373, Industrial Area “A” Ludhiana (Punjab)
WORKS : Vill. Jodhan, Distt. Ludhiana (PB)
EMPLOYEE STRENGTH : 1500
TURN OVER : 150 Crore
AREA : 55 Acre
CAPACITY : 119904 Spindles
Unit 1 - 42192 unit 2 - 24912
Unit 3 - 24000 unit4 – 28800
EXPORT MARKET : USA, UK, RUSSIA, EGYPT, BANGLADESH, SRI LANKA,
PAKISTAN, TAIWAN, HONGKONG, SINGAPORE, GERMANY,
FRANCE, NETHERLAND, MOURITIUS AND KOREA
ELECTRIC SUPPLY
Mill has its own power supply from power station and by diesel generator (D.G.) also.

MILL CAPACITY (SPINDLES)

UNIT NO. OF SPINDLES

1 ST 42192
2 ND 24912
3 RD 24000
4 TH 28800
TOTAL 119904

ACTUAL RUNNING PRODUCTION

80 Tons/day

PRODUCTION
Ring Spun 100% Cotton Combed Yarn
Ring Spun 100% Cotton Carded Yarn

THREE SHIFTS
Shift Time

Morning 7.00 A.M. to 3.00 P.M.

Evening 3.00 P.M. to 11.00 P.M.
Night 11.00 A.M. to 7.00 A.M.

VARIOUS DEPARTMENTS OF THE MILLS

PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT
1. To make best quality yarn.
2. To give maximum production & reduce waste.
3. To handle man power effectively so as to get maximum production.

MAINTENANCE DEPARTMENT
1. Routine checkup of the machine.
2. To change the spare parts as per requirement.
3. Oiling & greasing of the machine as per schedule.
4. Keep machine healthy and productive for both quality and production wise.

PERSONNEL AND ADMINISTRATIVE DEPARTMENT

1. Recruitment of various employees, workers & officers.
2. Placements at proper place & their training and development.
3. Record attendance.
4. Maintain industrial relationship & welfare.
5. Implementation of management decisions / policies.
6. Dispersement of salary & wages.

RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT DEPARTMENT

1. To check quality of input material, in process & final product.
2. Standardization of saleable waste.
3. Standardization of quality standards.
4. To assure the quality of product at various stages of spinning process.

COMMERCIAL DEPARTMENT
1. Receive the raw material, other materials and stacking in raw material go downs
2. Quality wise & in main stores.
3. Issue of raw material & other materials.
4. Stocking of finished goods in go downs & dispatch to the buyers.

ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT
1. To ensure optimum use of plant and machinery.
2. To ensure power supply.
3. To ensure optimum efficiency of machines.

LAYOUT OF THE UNIT

PROCESS FLOW OF MATERIAL
DETAILS OF THE MACHINE UNIT
RAW MATERIAL
Introduction
Raw materials are direct input with pre requirement to produce output of desired quality and
characteristics. Raw material department has to endure extreme pressure generated in view
present international scenario where consistent quality‟ is the success slogan. The mixing
department takes this care of.

Role of raw material department

 It ensures regular flow material to the production unit. It has to maintain the stock
position of various raw materials and send it to corporate raw material department for
day-to-day planning and decision making raw material.
 It also ensures proper storage of raw material; cotton.

Type of cotton used

 J-34 (Indian cotton)

 S-6 (Indian cotton)
 H4 (Indian cotton)
 100% organic (Indian cotton)

Various cotton stations

 J-34 Bhatinda, Bhocho,

 DBC, Mahsa, Maurmandi,
 Bareta H-4 Beed, Sihorbangla, kasoda, Phoolbari , Nagardewla, Jarbhani
 MECH-1 Gevro , sonadetch ,
 ABD S-6 Babra , Kadi , Botod, Saper , Godawari

Raw Material Sampling and Testing Procedure

 Generally a lot comprises 55 bales or 75 bales or 100 bales. To prepare 10 to 20% of

total bales are selected at random. Station no. is present on lots.
 For testing the sample hood is broken & sample from sides is collected to make a
sample of 9 to 9.5 gm.
 Sample forwarding is done with each sample to be packed in polythene bag engraved
with following information.

Bale No., Quality, Mill, and Lot No. , P.S. No. , Station, Bargain No. , P mark, Season. Reports is
prepared in comparison with the set standard by R&D department and then forwarded to
mixing department for preparing a mix of same properties & prevent variation in yarn.
MIXING
Objective of Mixing

 To reduce cost of working.

 To have uniform distribution type of cotton so as to prevent quality variation in yarn.
 To remove contamination & waste by sorting.
 Price & grade of cotton is also kept in mind while laying mixing.

Mixing
100% J-34 Cotton used

Types of mixing

 Fix Mixing - No. of bales are fixed

 Tapper Mixing - Day-to-day, no. of bales are changed

General Bale Details

 No. of bales 120

 Avg. wt. of J-34 bale 165 Kg
 Size of bale 127cm*56*45cm

Type of Contamination Removed in sorting

 Plastic dori
 Thread (color)
 Paper
 Yellow cotton
 Cloth
 Wood
 Polythene
 Leather
 Wires
 Hair
 Feather
 Sutli

Limitations

 Fiber must have same origin.

 Trash content should not be very high.
 3. Color grade in raw material must be comparatively same.
 4. Fineness of cotton must be nearly same.
Temperature and Humidity

 Temperature: 28-38 o C
 Humidity: 50-55 %

BLOWROOM
In processing the material, different types of machines are necessary, namely those suitable for
opening, those for cleaning and those for blending. Different intensities of processing are also
required, because the tufts continually become smaller as they pass from stage to stage.
Accordingly, while a coarsely clothed cleaning assembly is ideal after the bale opener, for
example, it is inappropriate at the end of the line. Therefore, there are no universal machines,
and a blow room line is a sequence of different machines arranged in series and connected by
transport ducts. In its own position in the line, each machine gives optimum performance – at
any other position it gives less than its optimum. Also there may be advantages in different
modes of transport, feeding, processing, and cleaning and so on from one machine to another
along the line. Finally, the assembly of a blow room line depends among other things on:

 the type of raw material;

 the characteristics of the raw material;
 waste content;
 dirt content;
 material throughput;
 the number of different origins of the material in a given blend.

Objectives of Blow room Opening of fibers.

 Cleaning of fibers.
 Proper blending of fibers.
 Removal of dust & dirt.
 Removal of heavy waste and seeds etc.

The above is achieved by the following processes in the blow room :-

 Pre opening
 Pre cleaning
 Mixing or blending
 Fine opening
 Deducting
Pre Opening
Effective preopening results in smaller tuft sizes, thus creating a large surface area for easy and
efficient removal of trash particles by the fine openers.

Pre Cleaning
Pre cleaning should be gentle, since removing fine trash particles is difficult, seeds and bigger
trash particle should not be broken.

Blending
To mix the different varieties of cotton bales thoroughly. This will give a homogeneous
distribution of fiber in the yarn cross section.

Cleaning Efficiency

 Cleaning efficiency of the machine is the ratio of the trash removed by the machine to
that of total trash fed to the machine, expressed as percentage
 Cleaning efficiency % =(( trash in feed % - trash in del %) x 100) / (trash in feed%)
 Cleaning efficiency of blow room = 40%- 60%

Fire Prevention System Available

 Fire bucket water

 Bucket sand
 Fire extinguisher of different types
 Fire diverters ELGI ARGUS
 Hose Reel
 Hose Pipe

PROCESS FLOW OF A BLOWROOM LINE

BALE PLUCKER
Bale Plucker is a fully automatic machine manufactured by LAKSHMI. It is important section of
Blow Room line in spinning department. It is bale-plucking device. Simultaneously mixing is
done by this machine. By using this machine we can directly take the cotton tuft from bale &
send it for further processing. It can move left & right traverse and pluck the bale cotton.

Objectives of Bale Plucker

 The basic objective of bale plucker is to open the bales into smaller & lighter tufts.
 To transfer this material to various other machines of blow room line for further
processing.

Salient features of Bale Plucker

 Opening the raw material into extremely small tufts by means of whirl disc beater
secure homogeneous blending, intensive yet gently cleaning, and maximum deducting
thereby laying the foundation for very high yarn regularity.
 The special design of the opening roll enables to be worked off in both direction
traverses as essential production.
 Retaining roll enables all the material to be worked off completely, down to floor.

The setting of BALE PLUCKER system depends upon two factors: -

 Overall production of unit

 Length of belt
AEROTEC

From Bale Plucker material passes through Aerotec. It has eight grid bars in which first three
narrow width and last five are greater width. Impurities and heavy particles falls down through
grid bars by gravity force. Material is fed by air suction and delivered by air suction. The
impurities fallen down in the waste box.

VARIO CLEAN

The cotton enters the beater chamber through inlet pipe & comes immediately under the
action of the Twin element Beater, rotating at 500 rpm.Due to power sweeps of blades, there is
both the reduction in size & mass of cotton & high extraction of trash. There is minimum fiber
loss with maximum trash content in the dropping, which is collected in the trash box.
Objectives of Varioclean

 It opens and cleans all types of cotton.

 It gives an efficient cleaning.
 It opens the cotton lumps with the help of pin type beater.

Salient Features of Varioclean

 Higher Production up to 1500 kg /hr.

 Twin element Beater for gentle cleaning and effective opening.
 Opening, cleaning and de-dusting combined.
 Effective micro-dust and seeds removal.
 Roller type waste collection system.
 Cleaning efficiency up to 40%.

UNIMIX
The material supplied is segregated into layers by the partition. Mixing occurs by displacement
of the material entry and material exit. The spike lattice remove material simultaneously from
al layers so that homogenous mixing occur. The take off roller removes the material from the
spike lattice while the tufts are pneumatically sucked off.

Objectives of Unimix

 To achieve extremely good homogenous and consistent blend of material.

 Large amount of tufts volume is to be achieved with space required.
 Intensive blending through simultaneous feeding of the entire vertical
 fiber deposing in chutes by turbulent airflow.

In UNIMIX turbulent air system is used to feed fiber into six vertical trunks. The m/c is made up
of three parts:-

 A Storage section
 An Intermediate chamber
 Delivery section

Salient Features of Unimix

 Production up to 600 kg / hr. (without opening roller) 400 kg/hr. (with opening roller).
 Infinitely variable production to meet any requirement.
 Larger buffer volume
  Integrated Cleaning Connected to an Automatic Waste Removal System

SUPREMOCLEAN
It is a fine cleaning machine with a high productivity & cleaning efficiency. The availability of
different types of opening roller ensures optimum & gentle opening & maximum cleaning
efficiency for wide variety of fibers. Thus results in lower maintenance & operating cost.

Objectives of Supremoclean

 To clean efficiently.
 To transfer the material for further processing.

A fan draws the flocks by suction from the preceding machine and ejects them into a filling
chute. The rear wall of the chute consists of individual aluminum lamellae with slot openings
through which the air can escape.

Salient Features of Supremoclean

  Production up to 600 kg / hr. with minimum space requirement.
 Infinitely variable production achieved by inverter drive.
 Controlled fibre feed for optimum opening and maximum cleaning efficiency.
 Fine opening achieved by Saw tooth beaters

LOPTEX

 This is the latest technology machine which separates the colour or colour less
contamination by sensor. This machine is fully electronic controlled. There is sonic and
optical system placed upon it which analyzes the raw material passing through the duct.
 3000 optical sensors are there to detect the colour material on the basis of colour
principle. Cotton is in white or in dull white colour while impurities which are in other
colour are separated by this sensor. There are 6 tube lights used inside the loptex for
better identification between cotton and color less contamination.
 The sorter of the Loptex integrates the detection & rejection system of foreign material
into the duct of the preparation line with no alteration to the transport speed.

Objectives of Loptex

 It actually separate out the color contamination.

 It has a camera through which it can supervise the material.
 As soon as it seen any colored thing, It separate that portion of material.
 It is useful for color contamination.

Salient features of Loptex

  It has rectangular section.
 Standard florescent light tubes and photo sensor located on both side of fibre flow.
 The light level detected relate to the difference in brightness between contamination
and normal fibres.
 The contaminated material is ejected in to waste by high speed value.
 A computer with key board & display controls the system & visualize the respective
data.

CARDING

"Card is the heart of the spinning mill" and "Well carded is half spun" are two proverbs of the
experts. The blow room process opens the compressed bale of cotton into small tufts. it
removes the 65%to 75%trash present in the cotton. Due to its higher rates of production, fibre
to fibre separation & complete trash cannot be achieved in the blow room. The condition of
fibres at this stage is not suitable for drafting & spinning. They need additional processes like
carding and drawing.

Objectives of Carding
  To open the flocks in individual fibres.
 Cleaning or elimination of impurities.
 Reduction of neps.
 Elimination of dust.
 Elimination of short fibres.
 Fibre blending.
 Sliver formation.

Salient Features of Carding

 High Production.
 Modular Construction.
 PLC system ensures leveled material.
 Aluminum alloy cylinder cover plates.

MATERIAL FLOWING IN CARDING

ACTION IN CARDING MACHINE

The following actions take place in a carding machine:-

 Combing action.
 Carding action.
  Stripping action.
 Doffing action.

Combing action

Combing action takes place feed roller & taken in. Here the pin directions of two surfaces are
the same. Combing is the straightening & paralleling of fibers & the removal of short fibers &
impurities by using a comb or combs which is assisted by roller & brushed.

Carding action

Carding action takes place between flat & cylinder. In carding action,
 Directions of wire in two surfaces are opposite.
 The moving directions of roller are also opposite.
 One roller is slower & other is faster.
So carding action is known as “Point against point” action.

Stripping action

Stripping action takes place between,

 Taker in and Cylinder &
 Doffer and stripper.

In stripping action,

 Wire direction will be the same.

 Roller moving direction will be the same.
 One roller will be faster than another.

So stripping action is known as “Point back point” action.

Doffing action

This action takes place between cylinder & doffer. In this place fiber is transferred from cylinder
to doffer. Low speed doffer is called fiber form of high speed cylinder & makes a condensed
web for formation of sliver.

BREAKER DRAW FRAME (SB-20)

Draw frame is a very critical machine in the spinning process. Its influence on quality, especially
on evenness is very big. If Draw frame is not set properly, it will also result in drop in yarn
strength and yarn elongation at break. The faults in the sliver that come out of Draw frame
cannot be corrected. It will pass into the yarn.
The SB-20 machines unite the fed sliver; draft them into drafting arrangement& delivers them
into form of sliver coiled in a can. In whole spinning process we always reduce the linear density
of raw material.

In carded sliver variation is more in density, so to get uniform sliver, this process of drawing the
sliver has to be carried out. Here the drafting and doubling occurs together sliver mixing is also
done in this process, hence it is of great importance to carry out the process of DRAWING.

Objectives of Breaker Drawframe

 To parallelize and straighten the fibers in card sliver along the sliver axis.
 To improve the regularity in linear density of card sliver by doubling.
 To lay the sliver in can with uniform coils forming a clear center hole.
 Micro dust removal.
 Blending of material in sliver form.
 To improve the sliver quality.

Salient features of the machine

  Antifriction bearing with continuous lubrication has been used whenever possible.
 The drafting system is spring weighted.

Material flow in SB-20

Can Capacity

 Length of sliver : 8500 meter

 Weight of sliver : 47 Kg
 Can height : 40 inch
 Can diameter : 48 inch

Stop Motions

 When selected length of material is deposited in machine will stop on the empty can
absent.
 Top roller comes in contact with feed roller if any sliver break.
 In case of lapping, spring holder too comes in contact with feed roller if any sliver break.

If the sliver jams between the coiler in contact with table.

 If the creel roller comes in contact with table.
 Optical stop motion if the sliver breaks between can and creel roller.
Suction System

 There are suction points at various places

 Top and bottom of drafting system.
 Top suction box to open with 3 suction nozzles.
 Bottom suction funnel.
 End of sliver tube.
 Sliver funnel.
 Calendar rolls.

OMEGA LAP

The carded and drawn material is further attenuated on the speed frame and ring frames. The
quality of yarn of spun by using sequence of processing does not reach high level. This is
because of the presence of short fiber in the sliver. The process of combing is introduced for
reducing the short fiber content in the material and for improving the fiber configuration.
Consequently, combed material gives more even and stronger yarn which contains less neps as
well. Omega lap is used for making laps of sliver by doubling and compression.

Objectives of Omega lap

  The main object of this machine to convert the sliver into lap sheet.
 Improve the regularity of card sliver.
 Improve the orientation of fibres.
 Combining a number of slivers into a lap that is ideal for the combing operation.
 Creating a batt with sufficient cohesion to ensure good lap winding.
 Orienting the fibres to the point that they are optimal for both the lap condition and
combing action.

MATERIAL FLOW IN OMEGA LAP

COMBER
The carded and drawn material is further attenuated on the speed frame and ring frames. The
quality of yarn of spun by using sequence of processing does not reach high level. This is
because of the presence of short fiber in the sliver. The process of combing is introduced for
reducing the short fiber content in the material and for improving the fiber configuration.
Consequently, combed material gives more even and stronger yarn which contains less NEP as
well.

Objectives of Comber

 Parallelization of fibers
 Elimination of predetermined short fiber.
 Elimination of remaining impurities.
 Removal of large proportion of napes and hooks in the fiber material.
 Formation of sliver having maximum possible evenness.

Types of feeding in Comber

Forward Feeding - It is widely used feeding. It is the feeding which takes place during forward
movement of nipper. It is better as compared to backward feeding.

Backward Feeding - In this feed the material enters only during backward movement of nipper.
It increases the amount of noil as compared to forward feed. In this feeding is more per
revolution of nipper.
In forward feed - Higher the feed length, lesser the waste %.
In backward feed - Higher the feed length, higher the waste %.

The no. of teeth on ratchet wheel is high, the feed length reduces and lesser is the feed length
better is the quality in both type of feed. The feed length is high, higher production and lesser
cleanliness of combed sliver. With modern high performance machine (combing operation and
combers) this usually no longer applies.

Main parameters influencing Combing

Raw material:-

 fiber type;
 fiber fineness (Micronaire);
 fiber length;
 uniformity of fiber length (CV);
 fiber stiffness;
 moisture content;
 Foreign material associated with the fibers.

Material preparation:-

 parallelization of the fibers in the sheet (batt);

 butt thickness;
 butt evenness;
 Orientation of the hooks.

Factors associated with the machine:-

 condition of the machine;

 condition of the combs;
 speeds;
 operational performance of the combs;
 type of sliver forming element (diagonal shift of the piecings);
 accuracy of the settings;
 drafting arrangement;
 movement of the elements;
 weight of the elements.

Ambient conditions:-

 room temperature;
  relative humidity in the room

MATERIAL FLOW IN COMBER

FINISHER DRAWFRAME (RSB-D-40C)

The Draw frame is a one-delivery draw frame with leveling system. This model is equipped with
4-over-3 draft system with pressure bar as well as with cleaning and suction systems.

Objective of Finisher Drawframe

 To parallelize cress-cross fiber in the sliver.

 To improve the regularity in length/weight of the sliver.
 Remove the hooks present in the sliver and hence to straighten the fiber.
 Thoroughly mix different type of fiber so as to give homogenous blending.
 More than 80% of incoming dust is extracted.

Important Features and Advantage

 The high delivery speed of up to 500 m/min and a production of up to 360kg/hr.

guarantee high efficiency.
 The pneumatically loaded 3 cylinder pressure bar drafting system make the processing
of noils as well as fiber of a staple length of up to 75mm possible.
 The labor cost is considerably reduced by an increase of the can content.
 This is achieved by means of sliver compression before coiling and a can movement
supper imposed over the normal circular movement of the can.
  The efficiency of the draw frame can be increased by adding the modular automatic can
changer

Dust removal

The draw frame is provided a suction system in drafting zone which removes the dust, short
fibers tending to adhere to the roller during drafting.

MATERIAL FLOW OF FINISHER DRAWFRAME

SPEED FRAME (LF 4200/A)

The draw frame produces a sliver that already exhibits all the characteristics required for the
creation of a yarn, namely an ordered, clean strand of fibers lying parallel to one another. It is a
fair question to ask why this sliver is not used as in feed material for the ring spinning machine,
instead of being processed in an expensive manner to create a roving as feed for spinning. The
roving machine itself is complicated, liable to faults, causes defects, adds to production costs
and delivers a product that is sensitive in both of the winding and unwinding. Use of the
machine is forced upon the spinner as a necessary evil.

Objectives of Speed Frame

 To reduce the thickness of D/f sliver to from a relatively fine fibrous strand of the
material know as ROVING.
 To insert amount of twist into the drawn out thinned material in order to avoid
breakage.
 To wound the delivered roving into a bobbin suitable for the next m/c.

Function Of The Builder Motion

 Reversing the carriage motion after each traverse.

 Shortening the traverse after each reversal.
  Shifting of cone belt after each traversing winding.

Automatic Doffing of Speed frame

Automatic roving tension control

Roving tension is maintained at an optimal level by means of two Automatic roving tension
controllers and through the individual servo motors.Automatic roving tension controller fine
tunes bobbin drive and controls uniform tension throughout bobbin build which results in
better stretch% values.

Important Features and Advantages

 3 roller drafting system with higher draft (max 16).

 Herring bone fluted rollers.
 Top rollers of reduced width.
 Individual floating condensers.
 Positively driven top
 Bottom cleaning devices.
 Modified creel suitable for 20” dia. can (max).
 Pneumatic suction for roving as well as top
 Bottom clearer device.

Parts of Machine

 Creel
 Transport Roller
 Sliver Guide
 Sliver Sensor
 Drafting Rollers
 Pressure Arm
 Top Roll Clearer
  Bottom Roll Clearer
 Cradle
 Twist Master
 Flyer
 Finger
 Bobbin
 Spindle

Material flow of Speed frame

Change Places

 Draft change gear.

 Twist change gear.
 Cone change gear.
 Winding pitch carriage gear.
 Traverse change gear.

Stop motion
  Roving break stop motion.
 Bobbin safety stop motion.
 Cover stop motion.

Roving Capacity

 Length of roving : 2350 meter

 Weight of sliver : 1.73 Kg

RING FRAME (LR 9/AXL)

Ring spinning is a method of spinning fibres, such as cotton, flax or wool, to make a yarn. The
ring frame developed from the throstle frame, which in its turn was a descendant of Arkwright's
water frame. Ring spinning is a continuous process, unlike mule spinning which uses an
intermittent action. In ring spinning, the roving is first attenuated by using drawing rollers, then
spun and wound around a rotating spindle which in its turn is contained within an
independently rotating ring flyer. Traditionally ring frames could only be used for the coarser
counts, but they could be attended by semi-skilled labour.

Image

Objectives of Ringframe

The spinning process basically consists of three slangs :-

 Reduction of thickness of the supplied roving of the required yarn count.. This is usually
done by drafting roller with some means of fiber control such as double apron.
 The prevention of further fibre slippage by twisting the fibre strand and hence
increasing the interfere cohesion.
 Winding onto a package which is convenient for handling and which protects the yarn.

MATERIAL FLOW IN RINGFRAME

WINDING SECTION

Process Coner

Yarn produced at ring frame is taken out in the form of processing and transportation. During
winding various faults such as naps, long thick, short thick, thin places, variation in color of yarn
contamination in yarn etc. are removed.

Objectives of Process Coner

  To produce a package with long continuous length of yarn.
 To produce cone or cheese of specific length.
 To remove weak places, slubs etc. i.e. the yarn should be free from all types of
imperfections.

Precautions to be taken during winding

 Quality of splicing should be such that it does not spoil the appearance and at the same
time the strength loss in spliced yarn should be minimized.
 Important yarn properties like yarn strength, elongation at break, appearance should
not be deteriorated.
 Package should not contain winding faults i.e. hairiness and the no. of neps should not
increase during winding.
 The bobbin is held in the bobbin holder called peg. The bobbin during unwinding
remains stationary.

Bobbin Change

The winding unit computer initiates the bobbin change. If no yarn is present in measuring lot of
the lower end yarn sensor. The winding unit bobbin change linkage ejects the empty bobbin
and checks a new bobbin from the circular magazine in which we can keep at maximum 5
bobbins and one has to leave empty.

Yarn Guide Drum

The guide grooves of the yarn guide drum place the yarn in cross wound layers on the delivery
package. Simultaneously the circumference of the yarn guide drum drives the delivery package.
This type of package drive has the advantage that the winding speed remains uniform from the
starting to the finishing of the package regardless of the diameter. The yarn guide drum rotated
in opposite direction while the splicing of broken end is to carry out.

Yarn Tensioner

The yarn tensioner applies uniform winding tension to the yarn in order to remove the thin
places and to obtain desired density of delivery package. At the top there is a sensor, which
senses the tension in the yarn & tries to control the tension around the specified value, which
has been feed in the informatory of the machine.

Electronic Yarn Clearer

To remove the objectionable faults present in the yarn, the electronic yarn clearer is provided.
Following are the common faults-

 Short thick faults

 Long thick faults
 Thin faults

We have decided the setting in the electronic yarn clearer to remove the type and size of faults
as per requirement. The clearer efficiency varies from 80%-90%. Depending on the winding
speed the clearer recognizes the predetermined limits of yarn. At reorganization of the yarn
fault beyond these limits the clear instantly cuts the yarn initiating a winding unit stop and a
subsequent joining cycle.

Splicing Of Yarn

Utilizing compressed air, the splicer whirls the yarn ends together forming knot less yarn. The
tensile strength of the splice is nearly identical to yarn strength. The two cut ends are inserted
either into a mechanical device which tapers them and intermingles the fibers or into air vortex
tube which untwists them and extracts the loose fibers thereby forming two correct lengths for
splicing. Splice testing takes place automatically at the winding unit start as the splice pass
through the clearer‟s measuring slot.

Auto Speed Reduction:

Automatic reduction of speed when the yarn exceeded from a particular decided length on
bobbin. For example- if we have set a length of 5200m. Then after consuming or winding the
5200m length yarn of bobbin the speed of groove drum automatically reduces to 80% for the
rest length of yarn on bobbin.

MATERIAL FLOW IN PROCESS CONER

Function of waxing

 Yarn strength increases

 Removes the hairiness of yarn
 Improves the shining of yarn
 Used for hosiery yarn

Yarn Fault Removed By Autoconer

 N/S/L Thick places

 T Thin places
 C/CC/PC Count pearl
 FD Foreign matter dark
 FL Foreign matter light
 J/U Channels, cleaning fancy yarn

CONDITIONING
image

Objectives of Conditioning

 To improve yarn quality i.e. hairiness is reduced.

 Strength of yarn is increased.
 Weight of package is increased.
 To give the moisture to yarn.

Check Point

Cones are checked by using ULTRA VOILET RAY. If in a trolley a different count yarn cone is
remained it will be determined Because in UV ray different count yarn give different brightness.

Pre-Conditioning

In Preconditioning Room There Are Two Nozzles, Nozzles Spray Water And Heaters Convert
Waters To Water Vapour. Cones Truly Remain In This Room For Two Hours.

Xorella

It is a large closed drum. In it 6 trolley cones are placed. In a trolley 90 or 120 cone are placed.

PACKING

Image

Cones obtained from the conditioning are sent to the packing section. There are two types of
packing :-

 Domestic packing
 Export packing

Parameter Domestic Packing Export Packing

Packing device Carton & Bag Carton
Cones 24 24
Cone Weight 2kg 1.89kg
Packing Weight 48kg 45.360kg

 Dimensions of carton = 770*390*510 mm

 Proper care is taken for packing the material export purpose.
 The packed material obtained is kept in the go down and transport to its destination
afterwards.
Different Types Of Testing Machine

AFIS (ADVANCE FIBRE INFORMATION SYSTEM)

Image

These machine is used for the fibre testing which is goes to the mixing. In these machine, the
module are used.

 Nep module
 Length module
 Maturity module

Sample Size :- 0.5gm

These m/c gives the following testing parameter :-

 Neps
 Short Fibre Content By Weight
 Short Fibre Content By Number
 Seed Cots Neps
 Upper Quartel Length (Wt.)
 Upper Quartel Length (No.)
 CV%
 Fineness
 Immature Fibre Content
 Maturity Ratio

USTER HVI 1000 (HIGH VALUE INSTRUMENT)

USTER® HVI 1000 is the global reference tool for cotton classification, producing accurate and
reliable results. USTER® HVI 1000 is founded on more than 60 years of fiber testing expertise
and over 30 years of cotton classing experience worldwide. These m/c is also used for the fibre
testing.

In these m/c, the module are used.

 Length strength
 Micronaire
 Color+Trash
 Sample size :- 10gm
These m/c gives the following testing parameter :-

 Upper Half Mean Length

 Uniformity Index
 Strength
 Elongation
 Short fibre
 Moisture regain
 Micronaire
 Brightness
 Yellowness
 Grade
 Trash count
 Trash Grade
 Maturity

TENSORAPID

The USTER® TENSORAPID is the most versatile strength tester– for both staple and filament
yarns. These m/c is used for following testing of yarn :-

 Strength of yarn
 Elongation of yarn

Yarn is 10 time tested for accurate testing.

50 cm length of yarn is stretch in these m/c.

USTER TESTER 5

The USTER® TESTER 5 is acknowledged throughout textiles as the global standard in evenness
testing. It means spinners can control yarn quality levels precisely. So it‟s a basis for optimizing
profitability. These tester is used for sliver, roving and yarn testing.

Yarn testing

Yarn speed :- 400m/mint

Yarn length check :-400m

Roving Testing

 Roving speed:-50m/mint
 Roving length check:-50m
Sliver Testing

 Card Sliver speed :- 50m/mint

 Draw Sliver speed :- 25m/mint
 Card sliver length check :- 50m
 Draw sliver length check :- 25m

These m/c gives the following testing parameter :-

 Thick places
 Thin places
 Neps
 Uster%
 CV%

CASCACE MACHINE

These m/c is used for the following testing :-

 Wrapping of yarn
 Strength of yarn

DHANDARI UNIT – KNITTING UNIT

At dhandari unit both circular knitting as well as flat knitting machines are present along with
the variations.

In circular machines the variations present are:-

 Single jersey machine

 Double jersey Machine
 Lycra rib machine
 Auto stripper single jersey machine
 Auto stripper double jersey machine
 Fully jacquard machine

Circular Single Jersey Machine

It is a basic mechanical machine which has 120 feeders and could knit a fabric of 30 diameter &
24 gauges. Except for single jersey the other fabrics that can be made are Pique, Honeycomb,
Terry and Fleece.
For making fleece fabric poly cotton is used at the back and for making terry cotton is used at
the back. Except for this, mechanical single jersey machine the other single jersey machine is
also present which has old mechanism. It has 90 feeders the diameter of the fabric which it
produced is less and its output is also less compared to the fabric which is made in the fully
automatic in the new circular machine.

Lycra ribbed Knitting machine

It is also known as all needle knit machine, because all the needles knit in this machine. It is
used to make 1*1 rib or 2*2 rib etc. In this machine both cylinders and dial work at one point.

Pique Machine
In this pique fabric is made. During our visit, a striper was being made in it. This machine is also
same as single jersey.

Auto Striper Machine

Single jersey type
It has 48 feeders always. It makes the fabric of diameter 30. It can make maximum 5 color
stripper at one time. We can make any kind of stripper on this machine. The cones which
contain the yarn are placed in such a manner on the pole in which the stripper is to be made. In
auto stripper the cutting line is already there.

Double jersey machine;-

It is available in 20.24 & 18 diameter. Cylinder could make 2 shades and dial 1.

Fully Automatic Jacquard Machine

In this machine only mercerized yarn is used, it is also known as power flat machine. We can
make fabric for garment body, tape, rib, collar etc. There are 30 power flat machines at
dhandari unit and there are 20 mechanical flat machines. Also there are 30 to 35 power flat
machines present at pearl unit in one hall. At dhandari unit 100 circular machines are installed.

Primary Knitted Structure and their difference

There is four primary knitted structures:-

1. Plain
2. Rib
3. Interlock
4. Purl

 Plain structure:
The simplest and most basic structure is the “plain knit” which is also called “single knit”. Plain is
a knit structure family, which is produced by the needles of only one set of needle with all the
loops intermeshed in the same direction. Although the plain knit family encompasses a great
number of structures all produced on a single needle bed.
 Rib Structure: 
Rib, also called “Double-knit” is the second family of knit structures. Rib requires two sets of
needles operating in between each other so that wales of face stitches and wales of back
stitches are knitted on each side of the fabric. Many types of rib structures can be produced
according to the arrangement of active needles in the front and back needle beds. 
 Interlock:
The interlock structure is a variant of the rib form in which two threads are alternately knitted
by the opposite needles so that interlocking occurs. Interlock is an interlocking of two 1 x 1 rib
structures in such a way that the face wale of fabric “1” is directly in front of the 'reverse wale'
of the rib fabric “2”.
 Purl:
Purl knit structures is the third family of knit structures. In the purl fabric structure, loops are
drawn to opposite sides of the fabric, which, on both sides, has the appearance of the back of a
plain stitch fabric.

Basic knitting elements

The three basic elements of Knitting are:-

 Needle
 Cam
 Sinker

NEEDLE-

The needles are the most important stitch forming elements. They are displaced vertically up
and down and are mounted into the tricks or cuts of the knitting cylinder.There are three types
of needles namely:

 Latch needle
 Spring bearded needle
 Compound needle.

Latch Needle- In textile Knitting Industry latch needle is that which has a right hook and a latch
which easily around the axis. This article has presented a details discussion on latch needle.

Main Parts of Latch Needle -

  Saw cut or slot,
 Rivet,
 Hook,
 Stem,
 Tail,
 Latch blade,
 Slot walls or cheeks,
 Latch spoon,
 Butt.

Types of Latch Needle:

There are mainly two types of latch needle seen in knitting. Those are-
 Single ended latch needle,
 Double ended latch needle.

Single ended latch needle:

This type of needle has classified into two types, where one is friction needle and another one
is friction less needle.

Double ended latch needle:

In this type of needle, two slides at same direction have hook and latch. Double ended latch
needle is used for double cylinder hose knitting machine and purl knitting machine

Spring bearded needle-

Main Parts of Bearded Needle:

Bearded needled contain the below parts-

 The head,
 The stem,
 The bearded,
 The shank,
  The eye or groove

Knitting Action of Spring Bearded Needle –

 Yarn feeding
 Yarn sinking or kinking
 Under lapping
 Pressing
 Landing
 Joining and casting-off
 Clearing

Uses of Bearded Needle in Knitting Machine:

The main purposes of using bearded needle in knitting machine are-

 It is vastly used in tricot warp knitting machine.

 Also used in single jersey circular knitting m/c.
 Bearded needle is used in flat bar full fashioning m/c.
 Compound Needle-
The compound needle used today in the construction of Tricot machines. The needle is made of
two separate parts; the main part of the needle, which includes stem, butt and hook, and the
closing element which operates with a sliding up-and-down movement in a groove, cut into the
stem of the main part of the needle. The needles are set in tricks cut in the needle bed of the
machine, while the closing elements, being cast in units half an inch long, are set in a separate
bar. The casting of the closing elements is required to ensure perfectly accurate spacing
between them.

Knitting Action of Compound Needle:-

 Needle rise and guide bar swing

 The overlap and return swing
 Landing and knock-over

Cam:-
Cams are the devices , which convert the rotary machine drive in to a suitable reciprocating
action for the needles and other elements. In general there are two types of cams.

 Engineering cam.
 Knitting cam.
Engineering cam: 
These are of circular type and indirectly control the motions of bares of elements. They are
attached to a rotary drive shaft situated parallel to and bellow the needle bar, a number of
independent cams correctly aligned movement. The drive is transmitted and adapted cam-
followers, levers and rocker shafts. One complete 360-degree revolution of the drive shaft is
equivalent to one knitting cycle. 

Knitting Cam:  
The Knitting cam  is of angular type and acts directly on to the butt of needles or other elements to
produce individual movement in the tricks of needle weft Knitting Machine  as the butts pass
through the stationary cam system or the cams pass across the stationary tricks. Knitting cams are
attached either individually or in unit form to a cam plate and depending upon the machine
design, are fixed exchangeable or adjustable. At each of at least a raising cam, a stitch cam and an
up throw cam whose combined effect is required. Usually four main types of knitting cams are
used. Function of Cam:  The functions of cam are as follows

 To produce motion to needles .

 To drive the needles.
 Formation of loops.

DHANDARI UNIT – DYEING METHODS AND MACHINERY

Wet knitted processing

Textile Wet Processing: 

Textile wet processing is one of the important branch of  Textile Engineering . Where, this
process is applied on textile in form of liquid with involves some for chemical action on the
textile. In textile wet processing it can be divided into three process that are preparation
process, coloration process and finishing process. This process is done for woven and knit
fabric. But this process is varies from buyer’s requirement.

Processing sequence

Fabric from Knitting

↓ 
Inspection of fabric in Grey house, lot preparation & Issue for processing
↓ 
Loading in the machine
↓ 
Scouring
↓ 
Bleaching ( Only when Light and medium shade dyed)
↓ 
Dyeing 
↓
Squeeze the fabric
 ↓ 
Dryer
↓
Seuding

Raising
 
Stentering  ( Only if Buyer Requirement )
↓ 
Compaction 
↓ 
Final Inspection

Machinery used in mills for processing of knitted good

Grey Fabric Inspection

In fabric from Knitting have number of faults which will be Inspected and remove in Grey house.

In this above machine the fabric is passed over the light source when the defects come the
worker detect it and stop the machine and mark the defected area.

DYEING DEPARTMENT :
Mostly the Knitted fabric is produced is P/C fabric (Polyester/ Cotton). Because it is very
comfortable to produce T-shirts, Lowers, Swat-shirts, Laggings, Undergarments etc from P/C
fabric. Poly cotton blends do tend to cost less than comparable garments made of 100% cotton
and they provide much more comfort. The 65/35 blend of cotton and polyester is the most
popular for work garments, particularly because of price, durability and a larger color selection
being available for purchase. The Dyes used for Cotton Fabric are Reactive Dyes & Dyes used for
Poly fabric is Disperse Dye. Also the Temperature is very important factor for dyeing of Poly/
cotton Fabric. Because for cotton fabric the temperate is required abut 130^c and for cotton
Dyeing the temperature is required 60^c.

Normally dyeing of polyester/cotton blended fabric is dyed in two steps. The cost of double
bath dyeing is quite higher than the one step or single bath dyeing. The continuous dyeing
technique of polyester/cotton blended fabric providing advantages of improvement in
productivity with reduced dyes and auxiliary cost and reduce material handling with minimum
process time. However, double bath dyeing of polyester/cotton blend fabric gives far better
results in terms uniformity of shades in both light and dark shades, Also the water consumption
in double bath dyeing is more as comparatively to single bath dyeing.

The machine used for Single bath dyeing of Poly/ Cotton fabric is HTHP Soft Flow Dyeing
Machine.
 Cotton dyeing processing

• Its dyed with reactive dye

• Check the shade-light,medium,dark,extradark

• For light shade semibleach is done

• For dark and extra dark scouring is done

• Then drying happens

• Process of semibleach-soap-1.5%,soda-ash-2%,hydrogen peroxide-2%,temperature-95

degree celsius,hold time-45 mins,drain-2 time wash,cold wash and hot wash,neutralise
 with acetic acid-2%,temperature-75mins,hold time-20mins,drain,two time wash-cold
and hot wash,

• Then its ready for dyeing.

• Then wetting agent is added(0.5%) and anticreasing(0.5%) at temperature-40 degree

celsius.

• Then dyeing is started.

• Colour compound are tested and dozing is done

• Then it is injected in the machine(20mins time)

• Common salt is added(L.S:20-40GPL,M.S:40-60GPL,D.S:60-80GPL,E.D.S:80-100GPL)

• Soda ash is added(L.S:20-40GPL,M.S:40-60GPL,D.S:60- 80GPL,E.D.S:80-100GPL)

• Temp taken -60 degree celsius and hold time-30mins

• Sample checking is done

• Soaping is done-1.5% used

• Temp-98 degree celsius

• Hold time-20mins

• Drain & then two time wash(coldwash and hotwash)

• Neutralise with acetic acid,temp-75 degree celsius,hold time-20mins

• Final sampling is done

• Then softening agent is used

• Fabric is out and then its hydrowashed,squeezed,dried,fused and finished

Polyester dyeing processing

• Disperse dye used

• Then scouring is done followed by anticreasing

 • Levelling agent is used at temp 60 degree celsius

• Temperature is increased

• Holdtime-45mins

• Temp-130 degree celsius is perceived

• Cooling is done and temp is decreased to 80-85 degree celsius

• If pressure inc and automatic sensor does not work then value erupts

• Drain at 85 degree celsius

• One time cold wash and one time hot wash is done

 For Dyeing of P/C Fabric the first step is to Dye Polyester part and then Cotton part.
Because we need temperature about 130*c for Polyester dyeing & For Cotton Dyeing
the Temperature is to required only 60* C. The Reactive Dye we for cotton is stable at
only below 100*c After that the color start bleeding. So that’s why we dye Polyester part
first then cotton.

 Also the dyeing Recipe of Poly/ Cotton Fabric is depends on shade of the color. The
shades of colors are in following category.
1. Light Shade
2. Medium Shade
3. Dark Shade
4. Extra Dark Shade

 For Light & Medium Shade ( Dyeing Process of P/C Knitted Fabric)

Scouring
↓ 
Polyester Part Dyeing
↓ 
Semi Bleaching
↓ 
Cotton Part Dyeing
 For Dark & Extra Dark Shade ( Dyeing Process of P/C Knitted Fabric)

Scouring
↓ 
Polyester Part Dyeing
↓ 
Cotton Part Dyeing

For Dark & Extra Dark shade no need of Bleaching. Because bleaching is done in the fabric to
remove the yellowish natural color from the fabric. So in dark and extra dark shades these
natural color not more effective.

DEYING RECIPE OF POLY/COTTON BLEND

Scouring Chemical

 Anti Creasing Agent

 Leveling Agent
 Soaping Agents

Dyeing Polyester Part

Dye Doze Start at 60^ C

Temperature Increase 1.5^C per Min after 80^c upto 130^ C

Add Acetic Acid

Temperature decrease to 80^c

Sample Check
 Drain if Sample accepted

Two time cold wash and Hot wash

Neutralize with acitic acid

Two time cold wash and hot wash

Semi Bleaching

Soap 1.5% ( weight of the material )

Soda Ash 2% ( weight of the material )

Hydrogen peroxide 2% ( weight of the material )

Temperature 90 ^ C

Hold time 25 min

Two Time Hot Wash and Cold Wash

Neutralize with Acitic acid – 1.5% at Temperature 75^c

Two time Hot wash and Cold wash

 Dyeing Cotton Part

Wetting Agent 0.5% ( weight of the material / at normal temperature)

Anti Creasing Agent 0.5% (weight of the material / at normal temperature)

Color Dozing 20 Minute

Temperature 60 – 90

Run fabric in Dyeing 15 Min

Add Common salt

Soda OR Caustic Soda( Caustic soda only for some colors( Like Tarquish )

Run for 20 minute in salt

Run Fabric for 30 min at 60^ Temperature

Check Sample

Drain if Sample Accepted

Two time Cold wash & Hot wash

Soaping 2% at Temperature 98^ for 20 min ( For Color Fastness )

 1 Time Hot Wash and Cold wash

Neutralize with Acitic acid – 1.5% at Temperature 75^c

2 Time Hot Wash and Cold wash

Add softer 2M for softening ( Then Fabric Out )

If the buyer requirement is Bio-washed fabric, So Bio wash is also applied a[on the fabric before
cotton paret dyeing .

 FINISHING

We all know that the fabric from circular Knitting machine is in the form of Tube. So it is depend
on the buyer which type of fabric they required in Tube form or in Open Form. Depend of the
these type the processing sequence is different.

The fabric is dyed in the tube form and after that according to its requirement it can be
processed.

 Processing of fabric in open form

After the dyeing if the requirement of the fabric is in open form, these below machines used for
prepare fabric in open form.
 OPEN SQUEEZER

 After the Dyeing the fabric is passed from the above machine – OPEN SEQEEZER , In this
machine there is a sensor cutter, when the fabric passed the sensor cutter detect the cutting
line and cut the fabric at this line. After cutting the fabric now the fabric is in open form and
then the fabric passed from the squeezing rollers and the water is to be removed. In this
machine only the 60-70% water is to removed and remaining water is removed from the
fabric in Dreyer.
 CYLINDRICAL DRYER
After the open squeezer the fabric is to be passed from the cylindrical dryer. In this machine
the fabric is passed over the heated rollers. It dry the fabric and free from water.
 CYLINDERICAL DRYER

FABRIC FINISHING :-
NOW THE FABRIC IS FREE FROM WATER AND IT IS READY FOR FINISHING PROCESS.

FOR THE FINISHING OF THE FABRIC STANTERING AND COMPACTION MACHINES IS TO BE USED.

IN FINISHING THE FOLLOWING PROCESS IS DONE IN THE MACHINE.

 Shrinkage Control :- Shrinkage is very important factor in wet knitted fabric

processing Because in every stage of processing the fabric is passed from
water so it will be shrink , In Finishing process it is very important to control
the shrinkage because after that the fabric is ready for Garmenting. The
Shrinkage will be control by passing the fabric in heating zone. The fabric is to
be passed I starched condition the knit of the fabric is set and the shrinkage
will be control.
 Dia Control :- During finishing the dia of the fabric is to be controlled
According to the buyer requirement.
 Repeat Set:- In Striper Knitted fabric there is changes in striper repeat during
washing and other treatment, so to set the repeat length according to buyer
requirement the stentering and compaction is to be done.
 GSM Control:- The GSM of the fabric is also controlled during finishing.
  Surface Smoothing : During finishing the surface of the fabric is also smooth
for hand feel better .

STENTER

This above Machine Stenter is to be used for finishing purpose. The Stentering of the fabric is
do if the buyer requirement. In this machine the Heated oil is to be used for heating the plates
from which the is passed. This machine is used for Polyester Cotton Blended fabric and Only
Polyester fabric. For 100% Cotton fabric no need of stentaring. In this machine at 150 – 170 * c
Temperature the fabric is to passed .

The oil used in stentering machine is heated in Thermopac and then it comes in Stentering
machine after passing from machine this oil is go back in thermopack for reheating.

The maximum temperature in stentering machine is 200*c and the maximum speed of machine
passed the fabric is 65 M/ Min. The temperature and the speed of the machine is to be set
according to the type of the fabric.
 COMPACTION :-

Compactor is a textile finishing machine which is designed specially for compacting 100% cotton

knitted fabric like jersey, pique, interlock, plush, rib and sinker etc.

 Types of Compactor Machine: - Compactor machines are two types. They are- 

1. Tubular compactor:- In the compaction of fabric takes place if the requirement of the
fabric is in tube form.
2. Open compactor:- In this the fabric is to be compacted in open form means after Open
Sequezer, Dreyer .

OPEN COMPACTRO
 TUBE TEX COMPACTOR

Compactor is important machine in knit fabric finishing process. There are a lot of technical
work which are done by compactor machine. The works are done by compactor machine are
pointed out below: 

1. GSM control of the knitted fabric. For high GSM, overfeed is increased and fabric width is
decreased. For low GSM, overfeed is decreased and fabric width is increased. 
2. Control shrinkage 
3. Increase smoothness of fabric 
4. Heat setting is done of fabric etc

Checking Parameters of Compactor Machine:- Following parameters check in compactor

machine.
1. Shade Check: Shade of the compacting fabric is checked in the delivery side of the
machine. The operator collects the fabric and compare the shade of the fabric with the
buyer’s approved swatch.
2. Width Check: Operator measures the width of the fabric with the measuring tape and
compares it with the buyer’s requirement.
 3. Weight Check: Weight of the fabric is determined by GSM check. Operator checks the
GSM of the fabric by GSM cutter and electric balance.
4. Edge Line Checking: Two edges of the fabric is check in delivery side. If any fix line is
identified, which normally occurs from the expander it should be connected.
5. Design and Slanting: Operator checks design and slanting of the fabric in the delivery
side of the machine.
6. Fabric Faults: Various types of fabric quality are measured in the delivery side of the
fabric.
After Compaction if everything is correct accordingly buyer requirement the fabric is to be
packed and ready for next garment process.

Sueding m/c:
Sueding is a mechanical finishing process in which a fabric is abraded on one or both sides to
raise or create a fibrous surface. In the textile industry, the process of sueding is also commonly
known as "sanding" or "emerizing". Normally this process is done only for buyer requirement. 

A sueder is sometimes referred to a s a sander since the machine consists of one or more rolls
covered with sand paper as the abrasive. Fabrics traveling over these rolls develop a very low
pile and the materials surface can be made to feel like suede leather. The hand will depend on
the fiber composition, the filament count in the yarn and the intensity with which the fabric is
worked.

Objective
This fibrous surface improves the fabric appearance, gives the fabric a softer, fuller hand, and
can mask fabric construction and subdue coloration. These improved aesthetics can increase
the value of a fabric in the marketplace. It is brushed lightly with a nylon brush.

Raising m/c:
Raising machine is using in textile mill by fabric manufacturers which is an industrial equipment of textile
industry used in textile finishing process  of textile sectors. This machine raises the surface of fiber
passage using the method of  textile technology over rapidly revolving cylinders covered with metal points
or teasel burrs. This is a very old technique known also to romans is used for textile design. During those
last years this process has also been apply on viscose blends and acrylic fabrics in textile mill. This
machine is used after Open Width Compactor or Tubuler Compactor. 

Function

Raising Machine for textile mill mainly used on raising for  fleece , the pile of blanket and cotton flannel
fabric in textile finishing department of textile mill. Raising machines textile use in textile factory for textile
finishing process for textile design.

Continuous washing machine:-

The classic open-width washing machine consist (Figure 1) of a series of top and bottom parallel
rollers, the lower set being immersed in the liquor [8]. The fabric passes alternatively between
top and bottom rollers, being subjected to a series of immersion in the liquor. The top rollers are
driven usually by chains or V-belts in a bank of five or six, which make up a compartment or
unit. The bottom rollers free-wheel and the bearings are sealed and self-lubricating. The bearing
of the top rollers are usually mounted outside the wash box to permit ease of maintenance and
lubrication. Both top and bottom rollers should be of the largest practicable diameter, say 12-13
cm, and the distance between top and bottom roller kept to a minimum to reduce the tendency for
fabric creasing or edge curling [8]. The developments in continuous washing have given by
many scientists which are [5]; 1 Increase in number of washing units; for water saving &
repeated impregnation in fresh water in each unit, (see Table I) 2 Improvement in fabric
dewatering between units; to increase the liquor exchange 3 Universal use of counter-current
liquor flow; for mechanical agitation 4 Matching of wash water flow rate to impurity exchange
rate

TESTING OF FABRIC:-

Buyers follow different standards like ASTCC etc and then testing is done.

Inhouse testing comprises of colour fastness to washing, colour fastness to

rubbing,water and perspiration.

 Washing fastness process:-Laundrometer is used

Recipes

 Take a sample in beaker

 Take 200ml soap solution per sample
 Hold time-45min and temperature-60 degree Celsius
 Then wash and dry
 Then check whether the color is bleeding or not

 Perspiration:

 Make a solution of mono HCL(0.25ml),hydrogen

phosphide(1gm),lactic acid(1ml),common salt(10gm) and add
water(1ltr).
 Keep the sample in solution for 30min
 Temperature is 35 degree Celsius and keep it for 6hours
 Digital bursting strength tester:-the bursting strength compares the
material quality as compared to others.It is used to measure the
strength of the fabricby submitting it to an increasing uniform
hydraulic pressure.They used presto digital bursting strength tester

Other various departments

 Hank dyeing lab

 Cone dyeing lab
 R.f dryer dept
 Grey winding dept
 Workshop
 Cone dyeing and fiber dryer dept
 Color store dept

Research and suggestions:

Q) How they calculate the % of cotton and polyester in a P/C

swatch?

a)Firstly fabric gsm is calculated and 60-40% of H2SO4 and

water is added.It boils and temperature is increased.Then
temperature has to decrease to 70 degree Celsius.Swatch is
made wet where the part of cotton is dissolved and part of
the polyester gets dried.So weight of the polyester is
measured and accordingly the percentage is taken out.

 Fabric inspection department: Here in this department we

noticed that they don’t have an inspection machine and
they do the inspection manually 24hours through naked
eye detection for what wastage is more and time
consumption is more.They also had very less manpower for
 what their efficiency was low.They follow cut to waste
ratio method which their main method to reduce waste.If
they find that 80% of the fabric are good and 20% of fabrics
are defected then they do 20% of more production so as to
reduce their wastage but productivity becomes low.
 The main advantage of nahar is they produce their own
electricity.They have set up non convention energy
 generation by putting up ricehusk which is used as a fuel
for heating water and circulation of steam

For eg:1 unit electricity production cost is rs 5.08

From outside electricity production is rs 7.08

So they save rs 2.08 which is their biggest advantage.

They make softwater from hardwater for dyeing unit as

they have a softening plant.

References