NORTHERN UNIVERSITY

BANGLADESH
Knowledge for Innovation and Change

Assignment On:
Working procedure of Neps measurement by AFIS

Course Title: TEXTILE TESTING & QUALITY CONTROL-2

Course Code: TEX 2301

Submitted By: Submitted To:

Name: MARIUM AKTER Name: SHAFIQUL ISLAM
ID No: 33180202902 Designation: LECTURER
Section: 6(E) Department: TEXTILE DEPARTMENT
Department: Textile Engineering (EBTX)
Working procedure of Neps measurement by AFIS :

AFIS measures the following fiber parameters,

o Fiber Length
o Fiber maturity
o Trash content
o NEP content

AFIS test principle USTER® AFIS PRO is an optical system. The fiber sample is opened into individual fibers in the
opening unit, and are then passed in the free airflow by the opt-electronic sensor. The pulses generated by the
sensor are converted into electronic signals and evaluated by a computer.
One sensor distinguish between individual fibers and naps and second sensor is required for the trash and dust
particle measurement. After the test has been completed the fiber, naps, dust and trash particles are deposited into
waste container.
Measurements and Calculations:
All measurements are performed optically on individual fibers and events (naps and trash).

NEP Classification:
Fiber and seed coat NEP count per gram and size (m) distribution.
Trash:
Dust and trash count per gram and size (m) distribution; visible.
Maturity:
Maturity, immature fiber content (%) and fineness (mtex) distribution.
Length:
Fiber length by number and by weight distributions; short fiber content by number and by weight (%).
 NORTHERN UNIVERSITY
BANGLADESH
Knowledge for Innovation and Change

Assignment On:
Relation between Crimp % &Take up %

Course Title: TEXTILE TESTING & QUALITY CONTROL-2

Course Code: TEX 2301

Submitted By: Submitted To:

Name: MARIUM AKTER Name: SHAFIQUL ISLAM
ID No: 33180202902 Designation: LECTURER
Section: 6(E) Department: TEXTILE DEPARTMENT
Department: Textile Engineering (EBTX)

Relation between Crimp% &Take up%

Crimp Percentage %:
Crimp Percentage is defined as the mean difference between the straightened thread length and the
distance between the ends of the thread while in cloth, expressed as a percentage.

L− p
Crimp%, C= ×100 … … ….( 1)
p

     Straightened length – crimped length

= …………………………………………
                   Crimped length

Take up percentage%
Take up percentage or crimp rigidity is a measure of the ability of textured yarn to receive from stretch and
is related to the bulking properties of the yarn before weaving and the length of yarn in the fabric after
weaving, expressed as a percentage of the length of yarn before weaving, is called take up percentage.

L− p
Take up percentage, T = ×100 …….. (2)
L

Where,
T = Take up percentage
L = Length of yarn before weaving
p = Length of yarn in fabric after weaving

Relation between Crimp% and Take up %

From equation (1)

L− p
C= p ×10

=> C÷100 = L÷p – 1

=> L÷p = C÷100 + 1

100+C
=> L÷p = 
100
…………….. (1)

From equation (2)

 L−P
T= L ×100

= (1- p÷L) X 100

= {1 – 100÷(100+C)} X 100 ……………………….. [From equation 3]

100 C
So,T = 100+c ……………………(4)

To express percentage crimp in terms of take up %, equation (4) is solved as follows:

100 C
T=
100+C
=> 100C = 100T + CT

=> 100C – CT = 100T

100 T
=> c= 100−T ……………… (5)

Equation (4) and (5) are two relations between Crimp% and Take up%

NORTHERN UNIVERSITY
 BANGLADESH
Knowledge for Innovation and Change

Assignment On:
Fabric air permeability test

Course Title: TEXTILE TESTING & QUALITY CONTROL-2

Course Code: TEX 2301

Submitted By: Submitted To:

Name: MARIUM AKTER Name: SHAFIQUL ISLAM
ID No: 33180202902 Designation: LECTURER
Section: 6(E) Department: TEXTILE DEPARTMENT
Department: Textile Engineering (EBTX)

Fabric air permeability test:

Air permeability can be measured by using distinct test protocols, for example, ASTM D 737 and ISO
9237. According to these test methods, the airflow through a given area of fabric is measured at a constant
pressure drop across the fabric. The fabric is clamped over the air inlet, and the air is drawn through this
fabric sample by means of a suction pump. The rate of air flow at this point is measured using a flow meter.
The value of permeability may differ considerably across the entire area of the fabric due to irregularities in
the yarn.

The permeability findings are not influenced by fabric orientation because the measured area is always
circular. The test conditions for the measurement of air permeability are the clamping area of the sample (
cm2) and the pressure difference (Pa). According to the ASTM standard, the recommended test area is
38.3cm2, while alternate areas are 5 and 100cm 2. The air is drawn perpendicularly through the fabric and
the airflow rate is adjusted to provide a pressure difference of between 100 and 2500 Pa between the two
fabric surfaces (minimum pressure drop of 125 Pa). The pressure drop is 100 Pa for apparels and 200 Pa
for industrial fabrics. The air permeability in mm/s can be calculated as.      

Air permeability,
Qv
R= …..×167
A
Where,

Qv is the flow rate of air in “dm 3per min” or “liters per min”
A is the fabric area in cm2

Shirley air permeability tester is widely used for fabric air permeability testing. In this article I will explain
fabric air permeability testing by Shirley air permeability tester.

Shirley air permeability tester

In Shirley air permeability tester the sample is clamped between two rubber gaskets, and a guard ring
surrounding the test specimen ensures that all the measured airflow passes through the specimen with no
leakage. The test area is a circle of 5.07 cm2. Airflow is measured when a pressure differential of 20 mm
H20 (0-2 kPa) is applied. Ten measurements of airflow are made on each sample.

Working procedure:
 Handle the test specimens carefully to avoid altering the natural state of the material.
o Place each specimen onto the test head of the test instrument and perform the test as
specified in the manufacturer’s operating instructions.
o Place coated test specimens with the coated side down (towards the low-pressure side)
to minimize edge leakage.
o Use a water pressure differential of 125 Pa (12.7 mm or 0.5 in. of water).
o Read and record the individual test results in SI units as cm3/s/cm2 and in inch-pound
units as ft3/min/ft2 rounded to three significant digits.
o For special applications, the total edge leakage underneath and through the test
specimen may be measured in a separate test, with the test specimen covered by an
airtight cover, and subtracted from the original test result to obtain the effective air
permeability.
o Remove the tested specimen and continue testing until all the specimens have been
tested for each laboratory sampling unit.
o The number of tests may go up to 10 but the minimum required number of tests is 4.