Understanding apparel quality

ASSIGNMENT -1

ABHINAV KRISHNA
Bft/18/1044
AMISHA SAHU
Bft/18/734

Course title
BFT 2018-22

Teacher’s name
BIBEKANAND BANERJEE
 Topic

REPORT ON
CRITICALITY OF
DEFECTS OF garment

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 What are garment defects?

Faults in garment is very common word in apparel industry. Various types of faults are
found during production in garment factory. These are defects that are found in the fabric;
mostly these are caused by the sewing lines. Finding defects in garment is very important
task for quality controller. Because quality is strictly maintained by garment buyer. So, in
the apparel industry quality control is strictly practiced right from the initial stage of
sourcing raw materials to the stage of final finished garment. For textile and apparel
industry product quality is measured in terms of quality and standard of fibres, yarns,
fabric construction, colour, surface designs and the final finished garment products. By
inspecting garment items before to shipping, you can be sure that any garment defects or
other issues have been addressed before the goods leave the factory.

Garment defects categories:

1. Critical defects
2. Major defects
3. Minor defects

1.critical defects:
The defects present in garments lead the
garments to be rejected directly are
called critical defect. Such types of
defects are not allowed to be shipped
and those are the most serious of
defects. Holes in garments, shade
variation in garments fabric are the
critical defects.

2. Major Defects:
The defect which is present in garments may not lead the garments be rejected rather
after removing this defect garments are executed for shipment is called major defect.

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 Those defects are not allowed over a certain percentage (3%) depending on buyer’s
requirements. Seam puckering, broken stitches, slipped stitch are the major defects.

3. Minor Defects
The defects which are present in the garments cannot lead the garments be rejected
rather if small quantity of this defect are present in the garment, garments can be
accepted for shipment. Over 5% minor defects are not allowed depending on buyers
requirements. This type of defect is called minor defect. Spot and sewing defect in
under part is minor defect. A minor defect will usually be seen by the inspector, but
may be overlooked by the customer.

Garments defects are also classified in three categories:

1. Fabric defects
2. Workmanship and handling defects
3. Trims, accessories and embellishment defects

1.Fabric Defects
The defects or faults are found in fabric are called fabric defects. Mostly these are
not caused by the sewing lines. Running shade, selvedge to selvedge shade, holes,
staining mark, missing yarn, foreign yarn, slub, hairiness etc are the common
fabric defects. Fabric defects should be addressed at the point of fabric
inspection, or cutting. Fabric defects should not appear at final garments. Fabric
defects can further be classified into 3 groups colour defects, construction defects
and cleanliness.

2. Workmanship and Handling Defects:

Such types of defects are directly caused by production section, this would
include both the cutting and sewing section. Buyer’s approved samples must be
referred to maintain perfect workmanship. These defects should never be
allowed to raise above a certain percentage.

3. Trims, Accessories and Embellishment Defects

These defects involve color and placement issues. Maximum such types of defects
include color, size and placement of trims such as labels, sewing thread, screen
print, embroidery designs, zipper, hangtag, lining, button and any kind of trims. 

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 Different Types of Defects in Garments:
1. Spirality
2. Shade difference within a same garment
3. Holes
4. Stain
5. Puckered seam
6. Open seams / Broken seams
7. Broken stitches
8. Dropped stitches/Skipped stitches
9. Wavy stitches/Staggered stitches
10.Uncut/ loose thread
11.Sizing defects
12.Poor ironing
13.Seams not aligned at crossing of seams
14.Distorted knitting
15.Broken buttons
16.Defective snaps
17.Defective snaps
18.Exposed notches
19.Exposed raw edges
20.Fabric defects
21.Inoperative zipper
22.Untrimmed thread ends
23.Misaligned buttons and holes
24.Missing buttons
25.Needle cuts / chews
26.Incorrect or mixed sew in labels
27.Incorrect or mixed swing tickets/bar codes
28.Pulled / loose yarn
29.Oil/ dirt mark on surface
30.Unfinished buttonhole
31.Zipper too short

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 Criticality of defects of sourced sample
1.Broken Stitch:
Non-continuous sewing thread.

Causes:
It appears due to improper trimming or machine usage.

Remedies:
 Needle plate, presser foot and feed dog should be checked periodically for
damages
 Proper machine usage
 Tension and threading should not be fiddled with much
 Washing parameters should be strictly followed
 Proper trimming
 Good quality or D-core thread should be used
 Needle thread fabric combination should be well judged
 Needle alignment should be right

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2. Sagging or Rolling Pockets:
Where the pocket does not lay flat and rolls over after laundering.
Minimizing Sagging or rolling front & back Pockets:

v    Make sure the sewing operators are not holding back excessively when setting
the front pocket.

v    Make sure the hem is formed properly and that excessive fabric is not being
being put into the folder that will cause the hem to roll over.

v    Check to make sure pocket is cut properly and that pocket curve is not too deep.

v    Use a reinforcement tape on the inside of the pocket that may help prevent the
front panel from stretching along the bias where the front pocket is set.

v    the type and weight of denim, along with the fabric construction, may contribute
to this problem.

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 3.Seam Puckering:
Seam puckering refers to the gathering of a seam either just after sewing or after
laundering causing an unacceptable seam appearance.

Causes:
This problem arises due to uneven stretching on to plies of fabric during sewing ,
improper thread tension , wrong sewing thread selection , dimensional instability of
the plies of fabric etc.

Remedies:
 Feed dog, eyelets and thread guides should be checked periodically for damages
 Machine feed mechanism must be better quality
 Operator training
 Tension, SPI and presser foot pressure should not be fiddled with much
 UBT/trimmer should be used instead of pulling and breaking thread
 Needle-thread-fabric combination should be well judged
 Sewing thread must be selected properly

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 4.Uncut/ loose thread :
Extra thread or loose thread on seam line

Causes:
 It appears due to improper trimming or finishing.

Remedies: 
 UBT/thread trimmer should be used
 Operator training
 Garments finishing should be checked properly.

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 Bibliography

1. 2.
https://fashion2a https://www.fibre2fashion.co
parel.blogspot.com/2016/12/ m/industry-
garment-defects-causes- article/3092/defects-in-
remedies.html garments.

3. 4.
https://www.onlineclothingst https://medcraveonline.com/
udy.com/2019/04/148- JTEFT/study-on-different-
garment-defects-found-in- types-of-defects-and-their-
readymade.html causes-and-remedies-in-
garments-industry.html

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