presents...

tutorials
for embroidering

hems

2 3
 tutorials
for embroidering

hems
Embroidering hemlines can be tricky, as it can be difficult to choose designs that work
well with the chosen hem type, embroider continuous designs along the entire hem
length, embroider along curves and more. Learn simple tips and techniques that help
simplify the process in these three informative tutorials.
Included in this e-book are three tutorials from the 2006 regular column “Better Hems.”
The Part 2 installment discusses how to embroider a banded sleeve hem, beaded jacket
hem and peasant skirt hem. Part 3 gives instructions for embroidering along a pants hem,
reversible hem and a robe hem. Part 4 gives tips for embroidering hemline corners and
convertible cuffs.
We hope you find these tutorials informative and apply the techniques into your
projects. Happy stitching!

Colleen Exline
Associate Editor, CME

TABLE OF CONTENTS
 “Better Hems: Part 2”
Stephanie Corina Goddard .............................. PAGE 3

2 “Better Hems: Part 3”

Stephanie Corina Goddard .............................. PAGE 8

3 “Better Hems: Part 4”

Stephanie Corina Goddard ............................. PAGE 13
 better
part 2 of 6

hem s By Stephanie Corina Goddard

In our series on embroidering hemlines,

we feature three more ideas to embellish
a basic hem for fashion focus.

Sheer Pleasure
Add a pretty sheer underlay to abstract embroidery.
This technique also works as a hem-lengthening method
for ready-to-wear. On ready-made pants, simply remove the
hem and inseam stitching, then follow the construction
method below.
Supplies
 Pattern of your choice for cropped-length pants
 Fabric yardage according to pattern envelope
 1 ⁄ 4 yard of sheer accent fabric

 Tear-away stabilizer

 Embroidery, bobbin and sewing thread

 Size 75/11 needle

 Repositionable tape

 Dressmaker tracing carbon

 Shaped edge embroidery design of your choice

approximately 2" tall

Preparation

Loes Hinse
Design Tissue-fit the pattern and make any adjustments neces-
5003 sary. Determine the finished length; trim the front and back
pattern pieces even with the desired finished hemline.
 Print or stitch a template of the embroidery motif.
 Use repositionable tape to temporarily hold the front and
Ken Clubb Illustrations

back pattern pieces together for the lower 10" of the side
seam, lapping the seamlines to draw the border.
 Allowing a margin of 3 ⁄ 4" between the lowest point of
the shaped edge and the pattern cut edge, trace (with the
embroidery template on top and the dressmaker tracing
carbon between the template and the fabric) the embroidery
3 Creative Machine Embroidery
motifs across the pattern pieces, including Embroidery up over the sheer strip with the lowest

the hoop alignment marks for each motif point of the embroidery 3 ⁄ 4" above the
(allows a margin of 3 ⁄ 4" for cutting ease). Hand- or machine-baste the pant leg to sheer fold (refer to Figure A). Pin through
Measure 3" above the cut edge and draw a layer of stabilizer. (You’ll need to release all layers along the top stitching line.
 Use embroidery thread in the needle
a topstitching line (A). the stitching in order to trim the contours
 Cut out the garment sections. Re-tape
of the embroidery.) Hoop the fabric.
 Embroider each motif and repeat until
and choose a decorative machine stitch
the pattern pieces as before. With right that reflects the character of the embroi-
sides up, lap and pin the lower side seams the hem is completely filled. If the last dery. Stitch along the line.
 Construct the rest of the garment
of both pant legs in the same manner. Pin motif doesn’t fit entirely on the width of
the pattern over each pant leg and use the leg opening, skip through the stitches
falling outside the fabric or simply allow according to the pattern guidesheet,
dressmaker tracing carbon to mark the matching the sheer folded edges when pin-
topstitching line and the hoop alignment them to stitch out only on the stabilizer.
 Remove the remaining basting stitches
ning and sewing the inseams. Trim the
marks on each leg. inseam seam allowances to 1 ⁄ 4" at the
 Sew the pant side seams and press the and stabilizer. Press the work from the hem; clean-finish with a serger or zigzag
seam allowances open. Cut the sheer fab- wrong side. sewing machine stitches.
ric 7" wide across the fabric width. Fold in Construction  If desired, make a clip in one side of the
half, matching short edges, and press.
 From the prepared sheer strip, trim two
inseam seam allowance above the hem
Serge or zigzag the raw edges together and area to press the rest of the seam
set aside. lengths equal to the measurement of the allowance open.
pant hems. Place the motif edge right side

A Measure 3” above cut edge and draw B Overlap ends slightly at each side seam; C Machine-baste hem onto stabilizer,
topstitching line. machine baste lower edge of stabilizer overlapping ends.
to cut edge of one garment layer. Hand-
baste upper edge.
Stabilizer

Garment
Layer

Zigzag
3 1⁄2"

3" 2" 3⁄4"

Sheer Edge
Finished
Garment Hem
Layer

Creative Machine Embroidery 4

 Reversible hem
Sail east, sail west—embroider a reversible pullover
top by matching embroidery and bobbin thread
colors before you set sail.
Supplies
 Pattern for loose-fitting pullover knit top
 Two lengths of lightweight knit fabric

in yardage according to pattern

envelope
 Lightweight cut-away and water-

soluble mesh stabilizer (do not

substitute)
 Embroidery and sewing thread

 Size 75/11 needle

 1 ⁄ 4"-wide clear elastic

 Embroidery border design of your choice with

satin stitch edge approximately 2" tall

Preparation
 Because the entire garment will be soaked after embroidery,
pre-wash and dry both fabrics separately before cutting.
 In order to prevent the embroidery stitches on knits from
distorting, a layer of cut-away stabilizer must be incorporated
into the hemline.
 Be sure to choose a pattern style and size that will fit over your
head and shoulders without stretching. Tissue-fit the pattern and
make any adjustments necessary. Check the neck opening seam
allowance and the sleeve and body hem depths; adjust them to 1 ⁄ 4"
if not already called for on the pattern.
 Cut out both fabrics according to the pattern layout, omitting any
neckline facings.
Construction
 Sew the shoulder, sleeve and side seams of each fabric (as if you were
making two separate garments). To prevent the neckline and shoulder
Kwik Sew seams from stretching out of shape, incorporate 1 ⁄ 4"-wide clear elastic
3120 to the neckline seam allowance. Apply the elastic in a 1:1 ratio. Serge or
sew in the seamline during construction.

5 Creative Machine Embroidery

 Cut two strips of lightweight cut-away large areas of dense fill stitching. Because
stabilizer, 1" taller than the embroidery you’ll be embroidering in the round, try
motif (accounts for hem depth, turn of different hoop sizes before combining
cloth and bit of space above and below borders in software or on the machine
embroidery) and slightly longer than the screen.
width of the garment when measured flat  In embroidery mode, machine thread
at the lower front and back hem. tension generally causes the needle
Overlapping the ends slightly at each threads to wrap slightly to the back.
side seam, machine baste the lower edge For the best results when stitching a
of the stabilizer to the cut edge of one reversible embroidery motif, it may be
garment layer. Hand-baste the upper necessary to tighten the needle tension
edge (B on page 67). in order to balance the stitching.
 Place the two garment layers right sides Test-stitch a sample on two layers of
together, neckline raw edges matching. scrap knit with a layer of cut-away
Pin. With the machine set for a very slight stabilizer between; take note of the
zigzag stitch, sew a 1 ⁄ 4" neckline seam. tension setting that produces the
Turn right sides out and press. best results without causing thread
 Arrange the garment layers as if they’re breakage. Measure the total
in the finished position with wrong sides circumference of the garment
together, making sure the sleeves are not hem and add 2". Cut a length
twisted. At each wrist sleeve seam, tuck of mesh water-soluble
each hem, right sides together, and place a stabilizer to fit
single straight pin through the folds. the measurement.
Reach through the body with your hand  Machine-baste the
between the sleeve layers. Carefully grab- hem onto the stabilizer,
bing the straight pin and draw the entire overlapping the ends (C on
sleeve out through the body lower edge. page 67). Plan to embroider
Grasping the folds firmly so they don’t lose on the “inside” layer of the
alignment; remove the straight pin. Pin the garment, pushing the rest of the
cut edges, right sides together. Sew a 1 ⁄ 4" garment out of the way as needed.
seam. Repeat for the remaining sleeve; Hoop the basted stabilizer so that the
return both sleeves to the finished posi- first motif will begin stitching near a Stretch & Sew
tion. Press. side seam. Make sure the hem edge is 2074
 Turn the garment with right sides parallel to the vertical sides of the hoop.
together, matching the body hems. Pin,  Using the same thread in the needle and
leaving approximately 10" open for turn- bobbin, embroider the first motif. At each
ing. Sew the pinned hemline with a 1 ⁄ 4" color stop, trim all jump stitches front and Elegant trapunto
seam, then turn the garment right side out back before switching both needle and Add elegance to a satin robe with an easy
through the opening. Press under the bobbin threads for the next color. trapunto technique that shows best on
remaining hem seam allowances to close  After completing the first motif, remove light-reflecting shiny fabrics.
the opening and pin. Slip-stitch the folded the work from the hoop but do not
edges together by hand. remove the stabilizer. Re-hoop for each Supplies
 Thread the needle with a color to match adjoining motif and repeat the embroidery  Robe pattern
one garment layer; wind a bobbin with a process, making sure to change bobbin  Yardage according to pattern envelope,
thread color to match the other. With the threads each time the needle thread color plus 1 ⁄ 8" yard extra for hem depth
garment color matching the needle thread is changed. At the last motif, be prepared  ⁄ 4 yard low-loft polyester batting
1
right side up, edgestitch the neckline, sleeve to stop each color at the place where it  Tear-away stabilizer
and body hems close to the finished edges. meets up with the first motif. After com-  Embroidery, bobbin and sewing thread
pleting the embroidery, trim the stabilizer  Temporary spray adhesive
Embroidery close to the work and then soak away the  Open embroidery design approximately

 Choose an embroidery motif with only remainder. 1 1 ⁄ 2" tall

small areas of fill. Avoid designs having
Creative Machine Embroidery 6
 Preparation
 Adjust the front and back pattern pieces,
increasing the hem depth to 2 1 ⁄ 2". Cut out
the fabrics according to the pattern
guidesheet and construct the garment up
to the point of turning the hem.
 Measure the total length of the hem cut
edge and cut a 2"-wide strip of batting to
fit. (If necessary, piece batting strips by  Because you’ll be embroidering very function to position the embroidery
butting the edges and joining loosely by close to the fabric edge, choose one of the field under the needle.
hand.) Fold the hem cut edge under 1 ⁄ 2" following placement methods:  Embroider each motif and repeat until
and press a crease. Open the fold, then  Use the “fix” or “baste” function on the hem is completely filled. If the last
pin the batting strip to the wrong side of the machine. Hoop only the stabilizer motif doesn’t fall entirely on the fabric,
the hem depth, aligning one long edge and then stitch out a placement outline. skip through the unnecessary stitches or
with the crease line. With the batting layer Remove the hoop from the machine simply allow them to stitch out only on
right side up, machine baste close to the and spray the surface with temporary the stabilizer. Embroider sleeve bands if
batting edge (D). Re-press the 1 ⁄ 2" fold adhesive. Place the hoop on the desired. Remove as much stabilizer as
over the batting. Turn and press a 2"-deep machine and finger-press the hem in possible from the back of the work, but
hem with the batting sandwiched inside; place over the outline. Re-sew the “fix” do not press. Attach the collar band and
pin from the right side. With embroidery stitches, then begin the embroidery finish the garment according to the pattern
thread in the needle, choose a decorative sequence (F). guidesheet.

machine stitch that reflects the character  Hoop the stabilizer and then draw a
of the embroidery. Stitch from the right placement line on it parallel to the hoop Stephanie’s Corina Goddard is a frequent contributor
side, 1 3 ⁄ 4" from the hem fold (E). frame, using a straightedge for accuracy. to Sew News. She writes and sews in Easton, Md. to the
Keeping the pins well outside the sounds of classical music and dog snores.
Embroidery
embroidery field, carefully straight pin
 Choose a continuous quilting design. the fabric to the hooped stabilizer, with Shaped edge: Husqvarna Viking, Endless Romance,
design 13
For hooping ease, use customizing soft- the hem edge along the placement line.
ware or on-screen editing capabilities to Boats: Grand Slam Designs, Sailboat Border (Large)
Hand baste the fabric to the stabilizer #BRDR40
combine enough repeat motifs to fit the along the hem fold. Place the hoop on
Outline design: Embroidery By Design, Quilting Blocks
largest hoop available. the machine and use the re-centering 2, design 049-03a,

D Machine baste close to batting edge. E Stitch from right side, 1 3⁄4" from hem F Sew “fix” stitches to hold hem in place.
fold.

1 3⁄4"

2"

1⁄2"

7 Creative Machine Embroidery

 better
part 3 of 6

By Stephanie Corina Goddard

hem s We continue our series on embroidering

decorative hemlines with three more ideas.

Vent about it
Tuck corner motifs into the vents at the hemline of a
blouse. It doesn’t matter whether the front and back
hemlines hang at the same level or at two different levels;
the result is just as interesting.
The Sewing
Workshop Supplies
Mimosa Top

Blouse with side seam vents
& Pant

Fabric and notions according to pattern envelope

Tear-away stabilizer

Pattern tracing supplies including dressmaker’s tracing

carbon

Embroidery, bobbin and sewing thread

Temporary spray adhesive

Corner embroidery design of your choice

Preparation

Tissue-fit the blouse pattern and determine the finished
hemline level(s). Making a few adjustments ahead of time
to the hem and vent allowances ensures that you can
machine stitch them in place without interfering with the
embroidery. Trim and/or increase the hem and vent depths
to 1" for a finished double-folded hem of 1 ⁄ 2" (A).

Use the pattern tracing supplies to trace duplicates of the
front and back pattern pieces onto semi-sheer tracing
Ken Clubb Illustrations

paper. On the pattern duplicates, draw the foldlines for the

hems and for the vent openings. Print or stitch a template
of the corner motif and slip it under the vent corners of
each pattern piece. Rotating or mirror imaging the motif as
needed, position it 5 ⁄ 8" from the hem and vent fold lines.
Trace the outline of the motif and the hoop registration

Creative Machine Embroidery 8

 W hen a garm entw ith side ventsisvery
loose-fitting the hem edgesare prone to
fluttering,exposing the w rong side ofthe fabric.
Considerw inding color-m atched bobbinsfor
each em broidery thread colorin the design
so the inside looksasneatasthe outside.

marks onto the pattern (Refer to Figure Embroider each motif; remove as much embroidery. Or, turn the facing down and
A). Using the adjusted pattern pieces, cut stabilizer as possible and press the work fasten the tab on the outside of the pant
out the garment sections according to the from the wrong side. for a self-fabric tone-on-tone detail.
pattern guidesheet.
Construction Supplies


Embroidery Construct the garment according to the
Straight-leg pant pattern

Working over a single layer of fabric at a pattern guidesheet.
Fabric and notions according to pattern
time, re-pin the pattern over the vent area
When instructed to sew each hem and envelope
of each garment section. Note: For a wrap-
1 ⁄ 8 yard of contrasting fabric for hem
vent edge, first press under 1", then open
front blouse, don’t put a motif at the left the fold and bring the raw edge to the facings
front unless it clears the closure. Slip
Tear-away stabilizer
crease line. Re-fold and press, yielding a
dressmaker’s tracing carbon between the
Pattern tracing supplies including dress-
finished double-folded hem or vent edge
layers and record the hoop registration of 1 ⁄ 2". Topstitch the hem and vent edges maker tracing carbon
marks on the fabric.
Embroidery, bobbin and sewing thread
in place when instructed to do so on the

To embroider each vent corner, hoop a pattern guidesheet.
Temporary spray adhesive

Two 5 ⁄ 8"-diameter flat sew-through

layer of tear-away stabilizer and treat the
surface with temporary spray adhesive. Convertible Cuff buttons, closely matched to main fabric
Using the machine’s on-screen functions, color
Sometimes you feel like a
Two 5 ⁄ 8"-diameter flat sew-through
rotate or mirror image the design as cuff…sometimes you don’t. Make a cuffed
needed to fit each corner. Finger-press contrast buttons
pair of pants to wear as the mood strikes.
Continuous border embroidery design,
the fabric onto the adhesive and hand or To match with a contrasting color top, but-
machine baste the layers together. approximately 1 1 ⁄ 2" tall
ton up the hem facing to expose the

1 3⁄4"
A Trim and/or increase hem and vent B Fold rectangles C Pin each tab
1⁄4"
depths to 1" for finished double-folded in half, right to scrap of tear-
hem of 1⁄2". sides together. away stabilizer
Mark stitching and sew single
lines as shown. vertical button-
hole, 3⁄4" long,
1⁄2" within point.
1"
1⁄2"

1" 1⁄2" 5⁄8" 1⁄4"

4 1⁄2"
1" 3 1⁄2"
1⁄2" 5⁄8"

1" Original cutting lines.

9 Creative Machine Embroidery

 Stitch acrossthe top pointw ith a single sm allstitch.Turn and press.O ptional:Edgestitch the tab edges.

Preparation
Attach a tab to each pant leg at the side
Print or stitch a template of the continu-

seam. Mark a placement line 6" above the ous border motif. Slip the paper tracing
Tissue-fit the pattern and determine the hem cut edge. With the tab and pant leg over the template with the horizontal
desired finished hemline with the cuff both right side up and the tab finished end placement line aligned over the horizontal
turned down to full length. Draw the hem- pointing toward the hem, place the raw center of the motif. (If the motif is direc-
line on the front and back pattern pieces, edge of the tab on the placement line, tional, orient the motif with the “up”
adding 1 ⁄ 2" for seam allowances. It’s straddling the vertical seam. Stitch 1 ⁄ 8" direction toward the nearest long side.)
important that the lower 6" or so of the from the raw edge. Flip the tab point Record the outlines and hoop registration
pant leg be stovepipe straight. Make any toward the waistline of the pant leg and marks for the number of embroidery
adjustments necessary to the vertical seams. stitch 1 ⁄ 4" from the fold, hiding the raw motifs, abutted end to end, needed to

Cut out the pants according to the edge. Flip the tab back into finished posi- cover the length. Pin the paper tracing
pattern guidesheet and sew the side tion and press. over the fabric strip, slip dressmaker trac-
seams (including side zipper insertion, ing carbon between the layers and record
if applicable). From scrap fabric cut two Embroidery the hoop registration marks for each
rectangles 3 1 ⁄ 2" wide x 4 1 ⁄ 2" long. Fold
Measure the length of one pant hem cut motif.
each in half, right sides together. Mark the edge. From contrasting fabric, cut one 4"
Cut a length of tear-away stabilizer at
stitching lines as shown (B on page 67). wide rectangle twice the hemline measure- least one hoop length longer than the
Stitch, then trim the seam allowances to ment plus 1" (allows for embroidery). fabric strip. Spray the surface with tempo-
1 ⁄ 4" and clip the corners on the diagonal.
Using the pattern tracing supplies, place rary adhesive. Center the fabric strip over

Pin each tab to a scrap of tear-away sta- a layer of tracing paper over the fabric the stabilizer length; finger-press in place.
bilizer (to give you something to hold rectangle and trace the outline. Measuring Hoop one end of the stabilizer for the
onto) and sew a single vertical buttonhole, 1 1 ⁄ 4" from one long edge, draw a parallel first motif. Embroider, then re-hoop the
3 ⁄ 4" long, within the point (C on page 67).
horizontal center placement line (D). stabilizer, moving the adjoining motif into

D Measuring 1 1⁄ 4" from one long edge, draw parallel E Position each motif at least 1⁄4" from lower reference
horizontal center placement line. line; and at least 2" from side seam cut edge.

1⁄2"

1 1⁄4"

2"
4"
2"
Original hem.

1⁄2"
5⁄8"
1" 1⁄4"
1⁄4" 7⁄8"
2 x Width of Pant Hem + 1" 7⁄8" 7⁄8"
New cutting line.

Creative Machine Embroidery 10

 ing directions for the hem. Contour
Divide the embroidered companion
strip in half, trimming to
fit the measurement of the Add pizzazz to a two-piece outfit with a
pant hems. Join each strip contoured hem that follows the silhouette
into a circle by stitching the of an embroidery motif. Choose one or
short ends, right sides more embroidery designs with a rounded
together, using the same lower edge that’s suggestive of a scallop
seam allowance as the pant shape.
pattern. Press the seam Supplies
allowances open.



With right sides together, Self-lined top

Fabric and notions according to pattern
pin the embroidered facing
edge to the garment hem. envelope

Tear-away stabilizer
Align the facing, join the seam

Pattern tracing supplies
with the pant leg inseam.

Embroidery, bobbin and sewing thread
Note: If the embroidery motif is

Temporary spray adhesive
directional, it will appear to

Embroidery designs of your choice with
be upside down. It will face
correctly when the cuffs are rounded lower edge
turned up. Preparation

Stitch with a 1 ⁄ 2" seam

Tissue-fit the pattern and determine the
allowance. To turn the sharpest
edge, first press the seam desired finished hemline. To maintain
allowance open, then press the proper proportions, plan the contour
McCall’s detail to project not more than 1" below
facing toward the wrong side
4762 the rest of the hem. Omitting the hem cut
of the garment. Turn each pant
leg inside out. Turn under and edge, use the pattern tracing supplies to
pin the remaining long edge until the fac- trace a duplicate of the front pattern piece
position. Continue embroidering down the ing measures an even 3" wide from the onto semi-sheer tracing paper. Draw the
length of the strip. If the last motif doesn’t lower edge. Set up the machine with nee- hem stitching line on the paper and then
fit completely on the fabric, either use the dle and bobbin thread to match the gar- add a parallel reference line 1" below it.
on-screen advance function to scroll ment fabric color. Turn each pant leg right Plan to position the embroidery designs
through the stitches that fall off the fabric; side out and work just inside the opening toward the right or left side (not at cen-
or simply allow them to stitch onto the to edgestitch the facing in place. ter) of the front garment edge.

Print or stitch a template of the motif
stabilizer. Remove as much stabilizer as
Mark two button positions under each
possible and press from the fabric wrong buttonhole—one with the cuff turned up, and slip it under the duplicate pattern
side. the other with the cuff turned down. Stitch piece, rotating or mirror imaging the motif
a flat button in each position, taking care as needed. Position each motif at least 1 ⁄ 4"
Construction to skim through only the facing layer when from the lower reference line; and at least

Construct the pants according to the sewing the button to the cuff. 2" from the side seam cut edge (E). If
pattern guidesheet, substituting the follow- available, use software and a larger hoop

11 Creative Machine Embroidery

 To avoid aw kw ard orw eak notchesbetw een scallops,keep the arcsshallow .

to group motifs. Record the outline of carbon between the layers and record the
To turn the smoothest scallops, use
each motif as well as the hoop registration hoop registration marks for each motif pinking shears to trim the seam allowance
marks. On the pattern, draw a contoured on the fabric. of each scallop to a scant 1 ⁄ 4". With small
stitching line to echo the rounded shapes
For each motif, hoop the fabric together sharp scissors, clip the seam allowance of
of the embroidery motifs, allowing 7 ⁄ 8" with tear-away stabilizer. If the fabric edge each pivot point very close to the stitching
space from the edges of each motif. This doesn’t reach the hoop frame all around, line (G). After turning the hem (but
allows for 1 ⁄ 4" breathing space and a 5 ⁄ 8" use temporary spray adhesive to help hold before pressing), run a bluntly pointed
seam allowance. An easy way to remember it in place. Embroider each motif, remove object such as a chopstick over the seam-
is imagine each scallop as a portion of a as much stabilizer as possible, and press line to smooth away any bumps or puck-
clock face and keep the pivot points below from the wrong side. ers. Complete the rest of the garment
the 3 and 9 o’clock positions (F). according to the pattern guidesheet.

Construction
Embroidery Stephanie Corina Goddard is a frequent contributor to

Place the embroidered front fabric right


Sew News. She writes and sews in Easton, Md. to the
Cut out the garment according to the side up over the front lining fabric (wrong sounds of classical music and dog snores.
pattern guidesheet, adding at least 1" sides together). Pin the duplicate front
to the hem edges of the garment front and pattern over them, upper edge and side Corner design: Stitchitize, Square Corner, design
front lining. (If you have sufficient fabric, cs068
edges aligned. Trim the hems on the
allow even more space beyond the gar- Border design: Stitchitize, Art Deco Borders, design
contoured cutting line indicated on the bo058
ment hem for hooping ease.) Place the pattern. Construct the garment according to Glasses design: Smart Needle, Girls Button Collection,
pattern duplicate over the front garment the pattern guidesheet. When sewing the design Glasses
section, fabric right side up. Align the hem, stitch slowly and smoothly through
pattern and fabric cut edges at the top the contours, pivoting across each corner
and sides; pin. Slip dressmaker tracing with a single short stitch.

F Keep pivot points below 3 and 9 o’clock positions.

No

Yes

G Clip seam allowance of each pivot point very close

to stitching line.

Creative Machine Embroidery 12

 better
part 4 of 6

By Stephanie Corina Goddard

hem s Our continuing series on

embroidering hemlines offers
ideas for embellishment. Here
we feature three more
fashionable ideas.

Button detail
To button or not, a feminine heirloom vent softens the hem-
line of a flared skirt. Use your machine’s built-in decorative
stitches to finish the rest of the hem, or explore the stitch
editing functions of embroidery software. Note: We feature
Stretch & Sew the treatment on a fluttery skirt hem, but you could just as
441 easily show it on a cuff.
Supplies
 Flared skirt pattern, such as Stretch & Sew 441
 Sueded knit fabric in “with nap” yardage according to pattern
envelope, plus 1 ⁄ 4 yard for layout changes
 Mesh cut-away and tear-away stabilizer

 Temporary spray adhesive

 Size 75/11 stretch needle

 Embroidery, bobbin and sewing thread

 Pattern tracing supplies

 Removable marker

 Scalloped-edge cutwork corner embroidery motif of your

Ken Clubb Illustrations

choice
 Optional: Seam sealant; two to three buttons

Pattern preparation
 Before making pattern alterations, first select a
scalloped-edge cutwork corner embroidery motif. Measure
the height. Choose a flared skirt pattern with a seamless front.
 Tissue-fit the pattern and determine the desired finished
length. Add 1 ⁄ 2", then draw a new hem cutting line on each
main pattern piece. Trim each pattern piece on the line and
then measure up 1 ⁄ 2" plus the height of the embroidery
motif. Draw a hem panel seamline parallel to the hemline

13 Creative Machine Embroidery

matching the curve of the lower edge (A).  Use a “with nap” layout to cut out the  Embroider the motif, following the digi-
On each lower section, record the grain- pattern pieces and carefully mark the tizer’s instructions for trimming the fabric.
line and then cut it free of the main pat- design areas of both lower front sections. To preserve the fabric needed for the rest
tern piece. of the hem scallops, end the cut line at
 Tape pattern tracing paper to the cut
Embroidery right angles to the stitches (D). To avoid
edges of the main pattern pieces and  Print or stitch a template of the distorting the fabric, allow the adhesive to
lower sections and add 5 ⁄ 8" seam embroidery motif. Rotating and/or mirror dissipate before tearing away as much sta-
allowances. imaging as needed, use the template to bilizer as possible and pressing the work
 Trace a duplicate lower front pattern mark the fabric for positioning, remem- from the wrong side.
bering to allow 1 ⁄ 2" handling ease at the  Finish the remaining hem circumference
with right and left sides, and divide the
length into thirds. At the division nearest lower and side edges (C). Hoop a layer with sewing machine stitches. On scrap
the left knee, trim the pattern vertically. of tear-away stabilizer and spray it with fabric, test-stitch the built-in stitches on
The right (longer portion) lower front temporary adhesive. Finger-press the your machine to determine the stitch
includes the overlap; add 1 ⁄ 2" to the short fabric in place on the adhesive. Note: selection and settings that produce a satin
end for cutwork handling ease. For the Normally cut-away stabilizer would be stitch scallop that closely matches the
underlap, extend the left (shorter portion) recommended for use with knits. Because digitized version.
lower front 2" (B). (This includes a 1 ⁄ 2" of the skirt style, tear-away is recom-  Begin with the right lower front. With
handling allowance and a finished 1 1 ⁄ 2" mended so when the hemline flutters, removable marker, draw a reference line
underlap.) the cut-away will not show. 1 ⁄ 2" from the remaining cut edge of the

A Draw a hem panel seamline parallel to B Use template to mark fabric for C Add handling ease to lower and side
hemline. positioning, remembering to allow 1/2” edges.
handling ease at lower and side edges.

1⁄2"

D To preserve fabric needed for rest of

hem scallops, end cut line at right
angles to stitches.
Hem Panel Seamline
Add 5⁄8".
Finished Hemline

1⁄2"
1⁄2"

2"
New Line

Creative Machine Embroidery 14

 Use custom izing softw are to com bine asm any m otifsaspossible to fitthe largesthoop.

lower right front. To stabilize the fabric,  Finish the skirt following the pattern Pattern preparation &
place scraps of tear-away stabilizer guidesheet. When joining the side seams, embroidery

beneath the fabric as you sew. Set up offset the seam allowances as needed to
the scallop stitch with the points toward match the scallops. Stitch the buttons to Tissue-fit the pattern and determine the
the right and the rounded portion the lower left front. If a single layer of desired finished hem length, adding 3 ⁄ 8"
toward the left. Begin where the hooped fabric is too soft to support the buttons, for the picot hem. Cut out and construct
embroidery left off. Satin stitch, guiding place small patches of self fabric behind the garment, leaving one side seam
the scallops along the reference line. for reinforcement. partially unstitched for hooping ease.
Remove as much stabilizer as possible. Directions are provided for standard
 Next, mark and stitch the lower back
No-stretch knit hem hooping. To substitute a specialty hoop
for continuous embroidery, refer to the
(if there’s a center back seam, join it Your little one won’t pop the hem stitching manufacturer’s directions for use.
 Cut a strip of lightweight cut-away
first). Finally, mirror image the scallop on her comfy knit nightgown when soft
setting and embroider the lower left front, cut-away stabilizer supports both the
picking up where the hooped embroidery embroidery and the picot-stitched hem. stabilizer slightly longer than the circum-
left off. ference of the nightgown hem and wide
 With small sharp scissors trim the fabric
Supplies enough for the hoop frame to grip.
 Print or stitch a template of the
as close as possible to the satin stitching.  Knit nightgown pattern, such as Kwik
 Alternative: If available, use stitch Sew 2446/2447 embroidery motif, centered in the hoop,
 Fabric yardage and notions according to
and trace at least two copies of the
editing to remove all but the scallop outline, including the cross marks, onto
and embroider the remaining hem pattern envelope
 Soft, lightweight cut-away stabilizer
semi-sheer tracing paper.
circumference in the hoop.
 Embroidery, bobbin and sewing thread
 Make two to three buttonholes in the
To mark the fabric:
 Pattern tracing supplies  Beginning at the garment front and
right lower front, nestling the buttonholes  Size 75/11 stretch needle
into the scallops. allowing at least 1" of breathing space
 Removable marker from the hem cut edge, pin the templates,
 Continuous border machine embroidery
Construction spacing them as desired. Mark the fabric.
motif of your choice
 With right sides together, pin the left  Optional: Continual hoop
lower front to the garment edge, remem-
bering to match the side seams at the
E Press 3⁄8" hem over cut edge of stabilizer.
level of the 5 ⁄ 8" panel seamline (not at
the lower cut edges). Pin the right lower
front over all and stitch with a 5 ⁄ 8" seam
allowance.
 If the skirt has a center back seam,
join it (including zipper installation,
if applicable). Pin and stitch the lower
back panel to the garment back.

15 Creative Machine Embroidery

 the last one doesn’t fit completely on the Bobbinwork border
fabric, skip through the stitches that fall
off the fabric or simply allow them to Edge a poncho with embroidery and
stitch out on the stabilizer. matching fringe for a pretty presentation.
 Press the work from the wrong side.
To embroider with threads too large for
the needle, choose a motif specially
Trim the upper edge of the cut-away digitized for bobbin work or experiment
stabilizer close to the work, leaving with a simple outline design that reads
bridges between the elements. Remove well in a single color.
the basting from the lower edge and
trim the stabilizer 3 ⁄ 8" shorter than Supplies
the fabric.

 Add a border across the front yoke,
Straight-sided poncho pattern, such as
Butterick 4621
 Microfleece in yardage according to pattern
if desired.
envelope plus 1 ⁄ 4 yard for testing
Picot hem  Lightweight tear-away stabilizer
 Finish sewing the remaining  Size 75/11 embroidery needle

portion of the side seam.  Decorative thread for bobbin

 Press a 3 ⁄ 8" hem at the cut edge of  Standard embroidery thread to blend with

the stabilizer (E) Select the picot decorative thread (or same color) or
(sometimes identified as a shell rolled monofilament thread
 Sportweight novelty yarn to blend with dec-
hem) stitch, up to 6mm wide. Choose
a thread color from the embroidery orative thread
 Pattern tracing supplies
motif and thread it in both the needle
 Awl or small punch
and bobbin.
 Tapestry needle
 With the garment right side up,
 Outline embroidery design of your choice,
stitch along the hem edge with the
such as one digitized for bobbin work
right needle swing just beyond the
 Separate bobbin case for use with heavier
hem fold and making sure the 3 ⁄ 8"
weight threads
hem depth remains rolled toward
the underside of the work. Adjust
the stitch length and width to
accommodate the hem stitches
accordingly.

F Use customizing software or machine controls to move design

as close as possible to lower right corner of frame.

Kwik Sew
2446/2447

 Machine baste the stabilizer to the fab-

ric. This method provides a continuous
strip of stabilizer to support the picot hem
finish and embroidery.
 Beginning on the garment front, hoop
and embroider the motif, but do not cut
the stabilizer.
 Re-hoop for each subsequent motif,
keeping the length of stabilizer intact. If

Creative Machine Embroidery 16

 Pattern preparation
 If the pattern does not already have a 1"
hem allowance add one or adjust the pat-
tern as needed.
 Cut out and construct the garment except for
according to the pattern guidesheet, the hem. To
allow a sufficient
margin for hooping so
Butterick
you can embroider close
4621
to the hem edge, first use
customizing software or the
touch screen of the embroidery
machine to move the design as close
as possible to the lower right corner
of the frame (F on page 69). This will
move the design from the center so that
it stitches out near the hem, while still
allowing enough hem allowance
for the hoop to grip.
 Print or stitch a template of
the embroidery motif or trace working around the garment edge and
several copies of the outline, spacing them out over the parallel line
including the cross marks, (H). Bear in mind that the designs will
onto semi-sheer tracing appear in mirror image on the right side
paper. of the garment. Note: It’s easier to keep
 Turn the garment inside track of motifs that march around the hem
out. To ensure enough all in the same direction. Once you’re
margin for hooping ease, happy with the layout, pin the tracings in
mark a line parallel to the place.
cut hem edge to indicate
Embroidery
the vertical center of the
hoop frame (G). Play  Choose a motif specially digitized for
with the tracings, bobbinwork; or another continuous

G To ensure enough
margin for hooping
ease, mark line
parallel to cut hem
edge to indicate
vertical center of
hoop frame.

17 Creative Machine Embroidery

 Another Idea
As an alternative to bobbinwork, a simple motif digitized for a straight or triple
stitch will produce a similar result when sewn in 30-weight thread using a size
90/14 embroidery needle. Be sure to test-stitch first, as it may be necessary to
enlarge the design for the larger fiber (but do not change the stitch count).
Mark and hoop the fabric as for normal stitching.

outline design that doesn’t have jump marks, consider sandwiching the fabric  To embroider each motif around the
stitches. Consult your manual or get between two layers of clear tear-away garment edge, center each cross mark in
some tips from your dealer on setting water-soluble stabilizer. This will help pre- the hoop, using the vertical and horizontal
up your particular machine model for vent hoop burn and add support to the indicators on the hoop frame for refer-
bobbinwork. fabric while still being able to see the fab- ence. Be sure to advance to the first stitch
 Use a separate bobbin case or one that ric markings. in the motif before placing the stabilizer
is intended for use with thicker threads  Advance the needle to the first stitch and and drawing the bobbin thread to the top
Refer to the manufacturer’s directions for slow the machine speed. Place a patch of each time. Remove as much stabilizer as
adjusting and installing a separate bobbin lightweight tear-away stabilizer over the possible; do not press.
case. fabric and then hand-turn the flywheel to
Hem & fringe
 Choose thread and other fibers that are make a single stitch. Use the needle thread
to draw the bobbin thread to the top (I).  Turn the hem edges under 1". Press and
too large for a machine needle. Slowly
machine-or hand-wind a bobbin with the  Embroider the motif, gently guiding the pin. With the garment right side up stitch
1 ⁄ 2" from the fold. Trim the remaining
decorative thread, bypassing the bobbin stabilizer patch until it catches in the
tension disc and gently guiding the thread stitching. hem allowance close to the stitching line.
with your fingers. Thread the needle with  Rather than trimming the thread ends  Plan the spacing for the tassels and
a matching color embroidery thread or right away, allow them to be caught in the mark the hem edge for each. Because
invisible monofilament thread. stitching until they’re secure; then stop the microfleece is very tightly knitted, use an
 On scrap fabric, test-stitch the embroi- machine and trim the threads close to the awl or small punch to make a hole in the
dery motif. Loosen the hoop frame enough surface. Remove the hoop carefully and hem for each tassel position.
to secure a scrap of the fashion fabric, trim the threads, leaving tails of about 4".  For each tassel, cut four to five strands
upside down and without stabilizer. This  Gently remove as much stabilizer as of decorative thread and/or yarn, each 8”
allows a clear view of the cross marks on possible and use a tapestry needle to draw long. Draw them through the hem edge
the fabric for accurate positioning. Avoid the bobbin thread tail to the back of the once, using a large, sharply pointed tapes-
over-tightening the hoop, which may leave work for knotting. Make any adjustments try needle. Bring the ends even; tie in an
an impression in the loft of the fabric. necessary to the bobbin tension. overhand knot.

If the test hooping process leaves hoop
Stephanie Corina Goddard is a frequent contributor to
Sew News. She writes and sews in Easton, Md. to the
H Play with tracings, working around I Use needle thread to draw bobbin sounds of classical music and dog snores.
garment edge and spacing them out thread to top.
over parallel line.
Vine design: Husqvarna Viking, Edging Excellence,
design 4
Hand-guided scallops made on the Husqvarna Viking
Designer 1.
Bear design: Artistic Designs, #AD0228B_12
Poncho design: YLI Corp., DigiBobbE Collection 2,
design 8.

Credit
YLI Corp. provided the RibbonFloss for the featured
tassels.

Creative Machine Embroidery 18

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