Fine Cooking 067

Bonus15sectithanksgi
on: ving
fine side dishes
FOR PEOPLE
how to roast
a moist turkey
making a
pan gravyrich
adding
flavor tonew
four
fall vegetables
baking
apple an
crumb
pie or crisp
roasting
chicken for
a casual
harvest menu
creating a
quick thai soup
www.finecooking.com
NOVEMBER 2004 NO. 67
$5.95 CAN
$6.95
11
o 94115 56529 5
Advertisement
POWER TO THE PRAWN.

S EASIDE PRAWNS & PINEAPPLE KABOBS
Makes 4 servings.
16 fresh or thawed jumbo prawns or shrimp

1 can (8 oz.) pineapple chunks
1/2 cup Kikkoman Quick & Easy Marinade™,
& Herbs, Toasted Sesame,
Roasted Garlic
Honey & Mustard or Gourmet Teriyaki
1 small red bell pepper, cut into 1-inch squares
4 (12-inch) metal or bamboo skewers
Leaving tails intact, peel prawns; devein. Reserving

2 T bsp. juice: drain pineapple. Blend juice and marinade
in large bowl; remove 1/4 cup mixture. Add prawns to
bowl. Toss to coat well; remove. Place 1 pineapple chunk
in curve of each prawn; thread alternately with red
pepper onto skewers, leaving space between pieces.
Broil 4 inches from heat source 4 minutes. Turn over;
brush with removed sauce mixture. Cook 3 to 4 minutes
longer, or until prawns turn evenly pink.
Those with a healthy appreciation *If using Roasted Garlic & Herbs, reserve 1/4 cup
pineapple juice. TIP: Soak bamboo skewers in water
for good food insist on Kikkoman,
@
The Original Teriyaki . America's
30 minutes to prevent burning.
#1 brand, it's made
.
with Kikkoman
Naturally Brewed Soy Sauce. WINTER WHITE BEAN SOUP
Use one of our five varieties to Makes 6 to 8 servings.
enhance your next culinary creation,

1/2 pound dry great Northern beans, rinsed
and taste the difference Kikkoman's
2 tablespoons olive oil
centuries-old commitment to 2 carrots, diced
quality makes. 1 large onion, chopped
1 can (14 oz.) vegetable broth
1 bay leaf
1/2 cup Kikkoman Roasted Garlic Teriyaki
Marinade & Sauce
1/2 pound mustard greens or kale
Soak beans in 2 quarts cold water, covered, overnight;

drain. Saute carrots and onions in hot oil in Dutch oven or
large saucepan over high heat 3 minutes, or until onion is
translucent. Stir in next 3 ingredients, beans and 4 cups
water; cover and bring to boil. Reduce heat; simmer
45 minutes. Meanwhile, discard stems and center ribs
from greens; cut leaves into 2-inch pieces. Stir greens
into soup. Cook, covered, 25 minutes longer, or until
beans are tender. Discard bay leaf. Serve hot.
READER SERVICE NO. 78

© 2004 Kikkoman International Inc.
OCTOBER/NoVEMBER 2 0 0 4 3
fine ki
OCTOBERINOVEM Q 6,ng 4 ISSUE
RECIPE FOLDOUTS
10E T hanksgiving on the Side

Fifteen great recipes for dressings,
green beans, potatoes, gratins, and UP FRONT
cranberry sauce
6 Index
8 Contributors
10 Menus & Wine Picks

32
Thanksgiving menu and
wine pairings; entertaining
and weeknight ideas
14 Letters
20 In Season
Fennel is fabulous
24 Q&A
28 Readers' Tips
94C Quick & Delicious
32 Great Finds
Mini chopper; garlic grater;
smaller santoku knife
ITI ��aI:�� -:l�� ,�e 28

visit our web site: www.finecooking.com 20
FEATURES TURKEY
38 DINNER WITH FRIENDS: 75

A Seattle Chef's Relaxed Menu
Celebrate the sweet, ripe flavors of late summer with
a rustic menu and a workable timetable
by Torn Douglas
45 Fall's Overlooked Vegetables

Discover how tempting sweet potatoes, turnips,
Brussels sprouts, and parsnips can be when you
choose the right cooking method
by Eva Katz
50 Tonight, Try a Crustless Quiche

Make a quick batter, saute a simple filling, and you've
got a brand-new trick for a casual dinner
by Randall Price
THE BACK
80
74 From Our Test
54 AMERICA'S BEST HOME COOK: Kitchen
The Winning Recipes .:. Brining and roasting turkey
.:. Making turkey stock
Try these recipes and you'll know why they made the
.:. Choosing a roasting pan
finals in Fine Cooking's nationwide contest
.:. Making mushroom gravy
by Amy Albert
.:. Baking with apples
.:. Roasting red peppers
60 EXPLORING CUISINES: .:. Buying beef broth
The Fastest Chicken Soup in the East 84 Food Science

Coconut milk and tangy herbs make this simple
Freezing and thawing 101
Thai classic taste deceptively complex
by Nancie McDermott
87 Advertiser Index
62 Apple Desserts with Easy
90 Where To Buy It
Crumb Toppings
A sweet, buttery crunch gives a lift
94 Nutrition Information
to four comforting classics
by Eva Katz
BACK COVER
68 Shopping for aNew Range
Our top picks in 30-inch models
by Amy Albert
Artisan Foods
Organically grown potatoes
76
x
Q) recipes
1J • Quick (under
45 minutes)
Cover Recipe
Brined Roast Turkey with Sage Butter
C
Rub, 75
• Make ahead
• Vegetarian Meat, Poultry, Fish & Shellfish
- - • Baking Brined Roast Turkey with Sage Butter
Rub, 75
• Broiled Tex- Mex Drumsticks with Avocado
& Tomato Salad, 94C
• G reek-Style Shrimp Salad,94C
• Lemon
94C
Chicken Soup with Spinach & Dill,
Mediterranean Beef Wraps with Roasted

Red Peppers,56
Mustard- Crusted Roast Chickens,42 Soups & Broths
• Pan-Fried Scallops with Malt Vinegar
Dipping Sauce, 94C
• Chicken Coconut Soup,61
• Turkey Broth,76
• Rib-Eye Steak Sandwiches, 55 Beverages
• Sausage, Potato & Apple Saute, 94C •• Homemade Bianco with Icy G rapes, 41
• Spiced Lamb Pitas with Fresh Mango
Salsa,94C Side Dishes
Stuffed Filet Mignon with Mushroom •• Braised Fennel with Pastis,22
Gorgonzola Grits,57
Warm Steak Salad with Rosemary
• Butternut
& Sage,Squash
10E
Gratin with Onion
Flatbread,59
• Cider-Glazed
& Bacon,46Turnips & Apples with Sage
Egg & Vegetable Main Dishes
• Goat Cheese Souffle with Red Peppers & Classic Bread Dressing, 10E
Chanterelles,56 Corn bread Pecan D ressi ng, 10E
Ham, Mushroom & Chive Clafoutis, 53 • Creamy Brussels Sprout Gratin,48
• RedClafoutis,
Bell Pepper, Goat Cheese & Thyme
52
•• Green Beans with Toasted Slivered
Almonds, 10E
• Savory Mediterranean Baklava,58 Italian Bread & Sausage Dressing, 10E
•• Savory Clafoutis (Master Recipe), 51 • Long-Cooked Green Beans with Oregano,
Shallot, Bacon & Sun - Dried Tomato 10E
Clafoutis, 52 •• Mashed Potatoes with Olive Oil & Parsley,
10E
Pasta
•• Butternut Squash Ravioli with
•• Molasses Mashed Sweet Potatoes,1 OE
Rosemary Oil,94C •• Orange-Dijon Green Beans, 10E
Appetizers
•• Parsnip Pancakes with Sour Cream &
Caramelized Onions, 47
•• Goat Cheese Marinated with Lemon & • Pearl Onion G ratin with Parmesan, Savory
Herbs,14 & Thyme, 10E
•• "Last of the Yakima Peppers"
Peperonata,41
Sweet Potato & Leek Gratin,10E
• Mini Savory Clafoutis, 53 •• Twice-Baked Sweet Potatoes with

Chipotle Chile, 49
Salads
•• Whipped Yukon Gold Potatoes with
H orseradish, 10E
Salad with Parmesan, 43

&
Warm Green Bean, Pancetta Tomato
Sauces, Condiments & Seasonings
Warm Steak Salad with Rosemary
Flatbread, 59
••• Cranberry Citrus Compote, 10E
••• Cranberry- Orange Relish with Ginger,10E
••• Cranberry- Pear Salsa,10E
•• Honey-Spice Apple Butter, 78
• Mushroom G ravy, 76
••• Sage Butter, 76
Desserts, Cakes & Pastry
••• Almond Cheesecake Apple Bars, 67
•• Apple Cranberry Crisp, 64
••• Cornmeal
& OrangeRosemary
Glaze, 44
Cake with Pine Nuts
••• G inger Apple Crumb Pie,65

••• G i nger Crumb Toppi ng, 65
•• Moist Apple-Walnut Cake, 66
••• Pecan Crumb Topping, 64
••• Walnut Cru m b Topping, 66
6 FINE COOKING Photos: Scott Phillips

(f)
L ��;R.:W-= Tom Douglas
o
-f-'
("A Seattle C
... ...
:J cuisine on the American culi-
... . '
..0
- -
While growing up, Joanne
McAllister Smart always
helped pull together Thanksgiving
L
-f-' dinners for her family. "My mother,
a nurse, often worked on Thanks
...
C giving, so my dad and the four of us
kids would cook the entire meal;'
o
she says. Joanne rose enthusiasti
cally to the task of gathering her flair, as well as down-to-eartn
o
favorite Fine Cooking side dishes kitchen advice: ";The trick is
for "Thanksgiving on the Side"
(p. 1 OE). A former Fine Cooking
editor, Joanne is the co-author of
. ... . . ... . .... .... ....0I.I.:.j... 1:,l.•.:I- •
'
-
•• •
- - .
the award-winning Bistro Cooking
at Home with Boston chef Gordon
. . :.,
Hamersley. She's at work on an
Italian cookbook with New York
chef Scott Conant, which will be Australian ambassadors to France Nancie McDermott ("Thai
published in the fall of 2005. and to the U.S. ambassador to Chicken Soup;' p. 60) is a food
Hungary, and as chef at the U.S. writer and cooking teacher who
Eva Katz ("Fall Vegetables;' embassy in Paris. He was also specializes in the cuisines of
p. 45) has worked in almost every chef at the Cafe de Mars in Paris Southeast Asia. She fell in love
aspect of the food industry, as and was host of Europe's Classic with Thai food when she spent
Nancie McDermott Inns on the Travel Channel, sam
a chef, caterer, teacher, recipe three years in rural Thailand as a
developer and tester, food stylist, pling the best in all good things Peace Corps volunteer. She now
and food writer. She was the direc for food-loving travelers. These lives with her family in Chapel Hill,
tor of the test kitchen for Cook's days, Randall is the resident chef at North Carolina, where, just like in
Illustrated and has contributed
La Varenne's Chateau du Fey and Thailand, all the iced tea is sweet
to numerous cookbooks. After cooks for private clients in Paris and food is almost always the
cooking professionally in Australia and the Auvergne. main event. Nancie's cookbooks
and aboard private yachts in the include Real Thai, Real Vegetarian
Mediterranean and Caribbean, Amy Albert ("Ranges;' p. 68, Thai, and, most recently, Ouick
Eva now lives and cooks in and "The Winning Recipes," p. 54) & Easy Thai: 70 Everyday Recipes.
Massachusetts, where she is is Fine Cooking's senior editor.
Eva Katz
also on the advisory board of the Between researching and writing After graduating from the Culinary
Cambridge School of Culinary Arts. about the best in 30-inch ranges Institute of America, Wendy
and covering the America's Best Kalen ("Apple Desserts;' p. 62)
Randall Price ("Crustless Home Cook competition (both went on to cook and bake in
Quiche;' p. 50) was working as words and images) for this issue, Boston restaurants before finding
a chef in Ohio years ago when she has logged in a lot of road time her way to a career as a recipe
he entered a recipe contest, won lately. "I was especially tickled to developer. Wendy loves baking
a pastry course at La Varenne in meet and photograph the contest with many types of apples, but for
Paris, and from there launched a finalists;' she says. "Every one of eating out of hand, her favorite is a
career in Europe as a caterer, chef, them was lovely-and every bit as new variety called Honeycrisp: "It's
and teacher, including several cool and calm as the most experi a fabulous apple, so juicy and crisp
Randall Price years as chef to the Austrian and enced pros I've worked alongside:' and sweet-true to its name:'
8 F I N E C O OK I N G Photos: top left. Sylvia Ramer; bottom left. Martha Holmberg: all others. Scott Phillips
FoodSaver®
All
All Models
Accessories
Lowest Prices
Fast, Free Shipping Buy VIETRI online at: 1-888-940-PLUM (7586)
FoodSaverShop.com www.plumpuddingkitchen.com
MAGIC
CHEF PAUL PRUDHOMME'S
® Today, savvy cooks around the globe are catching On to the value of kitchen
scales for monitoring the nutritional content of their diets, portion
control and consistent quality in baking. Soehnle offers this and
-( �� more with a perfect measure of style and fUnction.
__
FREE CATALOG The Art of Precision Since 1868
1.800.457.2857
Magic Salt Free Seasoning®
Magic Sauce Marinades®
&
• Fajita Magic®
• Autographed Cookbooks
wwwREADER.chefpaul.com
SERVICE NO. 41
t D) 25
CI'll' hralill;';(
Complements )
Years
to the Chef withBernina

Clock &Timer
MeaFoodCasurrbeohys Control
Fatd.rCaatleosries, Over 140 million
Soehnle scales sold worldwide
Brimming with the stupendous, exciting,

wonderfuL, incredibLe, eclectic, practicaL,
exotic, unequaled, and fantastic.
KnowLedgeabLe staff
(0) )({
Free Gift Wrapping
Gourmet Food Baskets I
A lEIFIIEn COMPANY l For more information, call1-866-MYLEIFHEIT email elke@leifheitusa.com.orvisitleifheitusa.com
Free shipping for purchases
over $100.00
Asheville, North Carolina
l www1-800-895 CHEF (2433)

.complementstothechef.com �
(f) Thanksgiving Menu
:J
C
OJ
Starter wines
Mionetto Prosecco Rose
E
(Italy) ; $1 1 .
Ruggeri Gold Label
Prosecco (Italy) ; $1 0.
Delicious
Dinners, for II! I I . •
Thanksgiving Brined Roast Turkey with Sage Butter & Mushroom Gravy, p. 75
& Beyond Main-course wines
White wines fisted from

off-dry to dry:
T
hanksgiving is the mother of all meals at 2003 Beringer Chenin Blanc
this time of year-arguably of the whole (California) $6; slightly
sweet.
year-and like the rest of us, you'll need
a delicious, crowd pleaser of a lineup. We've 2003 Covey Run Riesling
(Washington State) $9;
created one that can't miss, complete with
off-dry.
easy wine pairing choices which include op
E&M Berger Gruner Veltliner
tions for a range of tastes and preferences. So
(Austria) $1 2 ; dry
if you're having a crowd, why not set out a se
Annie's Lane Riesling 2003
lection of wine and let your dinner guests pick
(Clare Valley Australia)
and choose? And speaking of options, you can
$ 1 4 ; dry.
customize your side dishes by choosing from
1 5 recipes in our special section at right. Red wines listed from light
Love Thanksgiving though we do, the to fuller bodied:
truth is that you still need to eat dinner, enjoy I'
• 2003 Rosemount Diamond
a glass of wine, and entertain on lots of other Label Pinot Noir
nights, too. Check out Tom Douglas's great Gin g e r Apple-Cru m b Pie, p. 65 (Australia) ; $7.
late-summer harvest menu on p. 38 for a re 2001 Potel-Aviron Morgon
laxed dinner with friends. And on p. 12 are Chateau-Gaillard
menu ideas that run the gamut of possible (Beaujolais) ; $ 1 9.
scenarios: busy weeknights, casual Friday 2002 Meridian Pinot Noir
nights, entertaining on Saturday nights, even Reserve (Santa Barbara,
do-able dinner parties to cover you at the last California) ; $ 1 6.
minute . . . for that Thursday-night dinner invi Black Opal Barossa Shiraz
tation that your spouse just maybe forgot to (Australia) ; $ 1 5.
mention? Just remember to check the yield

on each recipe, as you may need to double or
halve it to suit your needs. -the editors
10 F I N E C O O K I NG
From Bean
To Brew •••
Coffee connoisseurs know the only way to make really

great coffee is to grind your own beans just moments
before the brewing process. The Cuisinart� Grind Brew &
Therma"- Coffee Maker does just that. You can grind your
favorite beans and enjoy the freshest most flavorful coffee
in seconds. And with the thermal carafe you can be
assured that your coffee will retain its freshly brewed
flavor, longer. It makes it all easy, makes it all automatic,
makes absolutely the best coffee.
1. Grind 2. Brew 3. Enjoy

Cuisinart
SAVOI THE GOOD LIfE-
www.cuisinart.com
Linens- - Things N
Bed Bath & Beyond· Crate & Barrel
COOKIES ON CALL
The best chocolate chunk cookies
made with love in Frannyland."'1
44 flavors hand cut chunks of the
&
most excellent imported chocolate!
www.cookiesoncall.com
I
READER SERVICE NO. 1 1 5
WHIP UP A NEW CAREER •

Enjoy the recipes
from our award
• Washington DC's Financial Aid,
leader in Culinary It Qualified winning 29 year old
Education • Nationally Vegetarian Restaurant
• Culinary Career Accredited
Program located at the
• Pastry Arts Program
BOO-664-CHEF (2433)
www.locademie.com gates of Yale
• Paid Externships info@lacademie.com
t:Academie de Cuisine Order toll-free: 866-466-0052

THE ACADEMY OF CULINARY
AND PASTRY ARTS
Visit our website for recipes and tips
160 6 d no 2087
In ust l Drive
www.clairescornercopia.com
Gaithersburg. Maryland Order a signed copy.
READER SERVICE NO. 1 1 0 READER SERVICE NO. 46
(J)
:J
C
Q)
Rustic Roast Chicken Dinner TO DRI NK: For the mus
Sophisticated Vegetarian Dinner T O DRI NK: For the
E
tard flavoring in the peperonata, try a crisp
Mustard-Crusted Roast "last of the Yakima
chicken, a full-bodied Sauvignon Blanc like
Chicken , p. 42 Peppers" Peperonata, p. 41,
Chardonnay (try La the 2003 Kim Crawford
served on crostini with an
Crema from California's from New Zealand ($ 1 4).
Mashed Potatoes with Olive arugula salad
Oil & Parsley, p.10e
Sonoma Coast, $1 5) or Follow with a crisp white
medium-bodied Pinot Butternut Squash Ravioli wine with forward fruit
long-Cooked Gree n Beans Noir (2002 Echelon, with Rosemary Oil, p. 94c to match the rich flavors
with Oregano, p . 10e also from California, of the squash, like the
$ 1 1 ) would be the thing. Cornmeal Rosemary 2003 Renwood Viognier
Apple-Cranberry Crisp, p. 64 Cake with Pine Nuts & "Select Series" ($1 0).
Orange Glaze, p. 44
M editerranean Beef Wraps

Broiled Tel-Mel Drumsticks
with Roasted Bell Peppers,
with Avocado & Tomato
p.56
Salad, p. 94c
TO DRI NK: A medium-weight
TO DR I N K:This is a dish for beer;
red wine with plummy fruit, like
try a pale ale like Sierra Nevada.
the 2002 Cypress Shiraz from
California ($7).
Sausage, Potato, & Apple Greek-Style Shrimp Salad, Rib-Eye Steak Sandwiches,
Saute, p . 94c p. 94c p.55
TO DRINK: A dry or off-dry TO DRI NK: A crisp, citrusy wine TO DRINK: A light- to medium
Riesling; try 2003 MOnchhof with herbal notes like Albaririo; try weight Shiraz like Delicato ($7)
Estate from Germany ($1 2). the 2002 Martin Codax ($1 4). or a medium-weight RhOne
blend like 2001 Guigal C(,tes
du RhOne ($1 2).
Chicken Coconut Soup, p . 61 Ham, MUlbroam & Cblve

TO DRINK: Try a young, bright rose Savary Clafautll, p. 52
like Bonny Doon's Ca' del Solo fruity wine with

TO DRI N K: A
Big House Pink from California good acidity like a Gamay-baaed

($10). wine from France; try the 2003
Beaujolais-Villages from Domaine
Louis nte ($1 0).
12 FI E COOKI G
MEXICAN
CULINARY
VACATION
bYFAGORiI
o
o READER SERVICE NO. 1 02
o Your best ON-LINE source for [QP

professional cooking and baking
equipment for home and commercial
kitchens.
Create Fast, Easy & Healthy Our full line of Chocovision
™
meals in 1/3 of the time. chocolate tempering equipment is

perfect for professionals
Available at most major kitchenware retailers & home hobbyists alike.
nationwide including: Starting at only $319.95

Macy's, Chef's Catalog and Kitchen, Etc.
www .selectappliance.com
For more information please call 1-800-107-0806 Phone (888) 235-0431 • Fax (650 ) 755-8624
We offer FREE Shipping • All Major Credit Cards Accepted.
READER SERVICE NO. 43 READER SERVICE NO. 1 6
Falk Culinair Bundt® Mini CaRes

Serious Cookware for Serious Cooks� Wf�i.M'
Arguably the world's finest Cookware, Falk Copper
Cookware from Belgium is now available to Serious
Cooking Enthusiasts direct from the U.S. distributor at:
CopperPa.,s.cotft
No other Cookware conducts heat more
efficiently or evenly than Falk Copper.
Bouquet Pan
2.5mm stainless lined, solid copper

construction for superior performance
Ergonomic cast iron
handles for balance
EnjO�J pcrsona/-sizec/
and durability. and oven safety. versiollS of our famolls
\ Bundt® caRcs with ollr Mini CaRe Pans.
Falk's exclusive brushed finish

for easy clean up.
Nordic Ware® 5005 Hwy 7 Minneapolis, MN 55416
© Culinary Concepts Int'l, Inc.

877-466-7342 • www .nordicware.com
READER SERVICE NO. 1 06 READER SERVICE NO. 92

(J)
L from th e editor
Q)
� Decisions, decisions
Q)
Y
ou'd agree, I bet, that it's never easy planning an enter
- taining menu, but it can be fun. It's like solving a puzzle.
There's the "what to serve with" dilemma. For in
stance, my mother often calls me with questions like, "I've
got this great recipe for Chinese Chicken Salad that I want
to make for my party, but I don't know what to serve with
it." Hmm . . . that's a tough one. I n this case, I suggested
she abandon the idea of traditional side dishes and instead
offer an assortment of boldly flavored main-dish salads.
Then there's the "I only like chicken, I'm on a low-carb Goat Cheese Marinated
diet, I don't eat fish, I don't like orange vegetables" dilemma. Who needs with Lem o n Herbs &
guests anyway, you begin to think? I often face this quandary, as my Serves four to six as an hors d'oeuvre
friends' tastes run the gamut from "I could eat sushi every night" to "I with crostini or crackers.
could live on hamburgers ." When both tastes collide at a party, I use 4-ounce log fresh goat cheese,
this strategy: I roast or grill a delicious cut of meat, prepare a simple sl iced into 6 eq u a l rounds
potato or rice side dish, and then make some really interesting sauces, 2 teaspoons (loosely packed)
freshly grated lemon zest
salads, or side dishes to serve on the side or pass around. Everybody
2 tablespoons finely chopped
can juke up the flavor of his own food to suit his taste. drained Oil-packed sun-d ried
Finally, there's the "how to plan everything to come out of the oven tomatoes
V2 teaspoon minced capers
or off the stove at the same time and be warm but not overcooked"
1 teaspoon coarsely chopped
dilemma. OK, I admit, I have not solved this problem, but two of the fresh thyme leaves
best ways to cheat are: a) always warm your plates, and b) in the case Sea salt or kosher salt
of Thanksgiving, always have hot gravy. But while I'm personally not 3 small rosemary sprigs
V2 cup extra-virgin olive oil; more
so good at the timing thing, I'm pleased to say that every Fine Cooking if needed
entertaining menu-like Tom Douglas's delicious harvest menu on Crostini (toasted bag uette sl ices) or
p. 38-includes a thorough timetable and lots of make-ahead ideas. good-quality crackers for serving
And Fine Cooking gives you plenty of menu options. For Thanks In a small, shallow d ish (about
giving, we have a selection of fifteen of our favorite side dish recipes 1 1/2-cup capacity, preferably straight
(see p. 10E) to help solve that "keeping everyone happy" problem. For sided ; I use a small cazuela), arrange
that "what to serve with" question, see the menu ideas on pp. 1 0- 1 2 . the six pieces of goat cheese in
one layer. Don't worry if some of
And i n case you're stuck for a starter, I offer you a simple idea a t right.
the cheese pieces crumble; just
-Susie Middleton, editor tuck them into the d ish. Sprinkle
the lemon zest, sun-dried tomatoes,
capers, and thyme over the cheese.
Sprinkle a l ittle sea salt (fleur de
Mining the treasures used before. It's been a delicious sel is great if you have it) or kosher
of back issues method for unearthing good salt over the cheese, and tuck the
Looking at my row of Fine Cook things overlooked the first time rosemary sprigs into the dish. Pour
ing magazines ( I have every issue) around. the olive oil over the cheese so that
-Jeanie Foote,
it just covers it (use a l ittle more if
it occurred to me one day that
necessary). Let the cheese marinate
there were treasures there I had IierraAmarilla, New Mexico
in the refrigerator for two to six hours
not mined. I dreamed up this (you can serve it sooner, too) . Bring
solution: For one week, I would A pizza ston e for the g rill the dish to room temperature (about
feature one issue in numerical I read your article o n grilling 45 min utes) before setting out with a
order, starting with Fine Cooking pizza by Frank McC lelland in small hors d'oeuvre knife and a plate
#1. I would write the number on Fine Cooking #66. I t was very of crostini or crackers. Spread a tea·
the calendar to keep track of my helpful. I enjoy cooking pizza on spoon or so of the cheese (with some
my outdoor grill. I thought you of the marinade ingredients) over a
progress. I would reread the tips .
crostini or cracker to serve.
I would use one recipe I had not (Continued on p. 16)
14 FINE COOKING
holidayshopping resources
Getting the most
from your recipes 11 Cook's WarflS
�{Z.rving Ih{Z. Cooks Of '{'1m{Z.riea
How to follow a recipe �ine� 1981
.:. Before you start, read the recipe from
start to finish so there are no surprises .
•:. Before actually starting to cook or bake,
gather all the necessary ingredients
and equipment. Prepare the ingredients
according to the directions in the ingre
d ient list (see below for more on this). Unique Gifts and Qual ity Cookware Sweet Celebrations
The finest cookware, cutlery, appliances, Supplier of quality bakeware, cake
.:. For determining doneness, always rely bakeware and utensils from around the decorating and candymaking supplies,
first on the recipe's sensory descriptor, world. Specializing in rare teas and organic packaging, premium chocolates, specialty
such as "cook until golden brown:' foods. Free catalogue. and hard to find i n g redients for your
holiday celebrations.
Consider any times given in a recipe Personal and Professional Customer Service
merely as a guide for when to start 800.91 5.9788 For a catalog call: 1 -800-328-6722
checking for doneness. www.cookswares.com www .sweetc.com
Watch those modifiers

A recipe ingredient list contains words such
CHEF PAUL PRUDHOMME'S
MAGIC *
as "diced" and "chopped" that tell you how
to prepare each ingredient for the recipe, but
what you may not realize is that the placement
of these "preparation modifiers" in the ingredi
ent line is as important as the modifier itself.
�
�
Chef Paul's All Natural Seasonings
Take for example the following two similar lines
Chef Paul Prudhomme has created 1 5 al l Bargain Books
that you may see in a recipe ingredient list: natural Magic Seasoning Blends, 4 Magic America's biggest catalog selection!
1 cup rice, cooked Sauce & Marinades, 7 .."'III...... Save up to 80% on cu rrent books, recent
pure, g round Magic overstocks, imports, reprints. Hundreds of
1 cup cooked rice
Chiles - choose your new arrivals each catalog. Cookbooks
The first line is telling you to take 1 cup of Magic! G iftpacks, Smoked &
galore,Gardening, Arts Crafts. You'll love
rice and cook it; the second line is calling for
Meats & Pecan Pie also the savi ngs on a wide selection of new
available. releases and best sellers, as well!
1 cup of rice that has already been cooked.
FREE CATALO G :
The d ifference between the two is about Call 1 -800-457-2857 for 1 -800-677-3483
2 cups of cooked rice, and that can make a free catalog or visit us at Edward R. Hamilton, Bookseller
www .chefpa ul.com www . erhbooks.com/fsk
big difference in the outcome of a recipe.
READER SERVICE NO. 1 0 1 READER SERVICE NO.7
Ingredients
Cooking
Unless otherwise noted, assume that
.:. butter is unsalted;
...•.....................
•:. eggs are large (about 2 ounces each ) ;
.:. flour is all-purpose (don't sift unless
directed);
shoppingguide
.:. sugar is granulated;
.:. salt is table salt; if the recipe calls for
kosher salt (which is coarser than table
salt) and you only have table salt, use a
bit less of it; Two fun g ifts Meal of The Month Club
.:. fresh herbs, greens, and lettuces are Convenient Shopping From Home or BBQ Sauce Club - $1 9.95 includes
washed and dried ; Log on to www.finecooking.com/shopping shipping, choose from 2 to 1 2 months.
.:. garlic, onions, and fresh ginger

for the convenience of shopping right at your FREE pasta pot or FREE basting brush
fingertips. A shopping experience created depending on plan. Multi-Award winning
are peeled. especially for people who love to cook. Make website, online since 1 995.
your holiday shopping easier with over 1 00 1 -800-566-0599
direct links to your favorite companies. www.flying noodle.com
(f)
L-
Q) might want to know that you can buy Grateful for g reat wine picks
�
CDbking
a pizzalbaking stone for your grill from Thank you for including such great
Q) a company on the Internet. I bought

a FibraMent Stone about a year ago.
wine recommendations in every issue
of Fine Cooking. Every bottle I've tried
It improved the bake and reduced the has been excellent and exactly as de
EDITOR
amount of time to cook a pizza. Keep scribed. With all the wines available, Susie Middleton
up the good work. I enjoy your maga it can be intimidating picking some ART DIRECTOR
zine very much. thing out point blank. Keep up the Steve Hunter
-Mike Casey, good work!

MANAGING EDITOR
Oak Forest, Illinois -Christina Bosco, Sarah Jay
via email SENIOR EDITOR
Editors' note: Baking stones cannot Amy Albert
be placed directly over grill flames. A wine from any other place TEST KITCHEN MANAGER/RECIPE EDITOR
JenniferArmentrout
FibraMent stones for the grill come My wife and I have been reading Fine
with a protective metal pan. Cooking since the beginning, and we
ASSOCIATE EDITORS
Rebecca Freedman, KimberlyY. Masibay
constantly recommend your maga
SENIOR COPY/PRODUCTION EDITOR
Corn from a whole cob zine to our friends and associates. I LiAgen
I like your method of cutting corn off work for a wine agency that imports ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR
the cob, which you explained in Fine d 'Are nberg into Ontario and was Annie Giammattei
Cooking #66 ( p . 69 ) . Instead of cut very pleased to see the recommenda EDITORIAL ASSISTANT
Kim Landi
ting the ear of corn in half, you can tion of The Olive Grove Chardonnay
PHOTO COORDINATOR
also j ust start in the middle of the for grilled food in Fine Cooking #66 .
Jessica Bard
whole ear, cut the kernels down to I'd like t o point out that d'Arenberg
TEST KITCHEN INTERNS
the end, and when the bottom half is Chardonnay comes from McLaren Jeff Borofsky, Hilary R. Patten
done, turn the cob around and do the Vale , not from South Australia. The CONTRIBUTING EDITORS
other half in the same way. This varia McLaren Vale is a very distinct grow PamAnderson,Abigail Johnson Dodge,
Tim Gaiser, Tony Rosenfeld, Molly Stevens
tion accomplishes the same thing, and ing region in Australia with a specific
you don't have to cut the cob in half, style and profile, much like Sonoma or PUBLISHER
which is sometimes difficult. Alexander Valley. Martha Holmberg
-Constance Frana, -Mark Donaldson, SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER

via email via email Christine Rosato
MARKETING MANAGER
CObkin
Dominique Clancy
special events g
SINGLE COPY SALES MANAGER
tips for entertaining from from November 1 Mark Stiekman
Frei Brothers Reserve, through 1 7; get specifics

ADVERTISING DIRECTOR
and advice on choosing on www.holidayfeasting. Jeff Dwight
and using the right equip- com, surlatable.com, or ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER
Fine Cooking has teamed ment for preparing your call your nearest Sur Molly Cole
up with Frei Brothers holiday feasts from the La Table store. SENIOR NATIONAL ACCOUNT MANAGER
Joel Burger
Reserve winery and Sur experts at Sur la Table. See Molly Stevens
NATIONAL ACCOUNT MANAGERS
La Table cookware re- And we're "going live" teach recipes from her Linda Petersell, Kathy Reilly
tailer on a speCial holiday with all this holiday new book, All About AD SALES SUPPORT SUPERVISOR
cooking event designed excitement. Fine Cooking Braising, at Sur La Marjorie Brown
to get you inspired, in- contributors Pam Ander- Table stores arou nd the AD SALES SUPPORT ASSOCIATE
Cindy Nesline
formed, equipped and son, Diane Morgan, and country, from October
energized for Thanks- Molly Stevens will teach Fine Cooking: (ISSN: 1072-5121) is published
1 8 through 28; visit bimonthly, with a special seventh issue in the winter, by The
giving, Christmas, and a fantastic Than ksgiving surlatable.com for Taunton Press, Inc., Newtown, CT 06470-5506. Telephone
203-426-8171. Periodicals postage paid at Newtown, CT
more. We've created a menu at Sur La Table details. 06470 and at additional mailing offices. GST paid registra
tion#123210981.
special Web site, www. stores across the And for radio listeners, Subscription Rates: U.S. and Canada, $29.95 for
one year, $49.95 for two years, $69.95 for three years
holidayfeasting.com, country, with wine tast- contributing editor Abby (GST included, payable in U.S. funds). Outside the U.S.!
where you'll find excel- Canada: $36 for one year, $62 for two years, $88
ing and advice from Dodge a ppears on for three years (payable in U.S. funds). Single copy, $5.95.
lent Fine Cooking recipes Frei Brothers Reserve. "Good Food with Evan Single copy outside the U.S., $6.95.
for holiday menus, useful

food and wine pairing
Classes will take place
at various locations
Kleiman" on KCRW in the
Santa Monica area.
Postmaster: Send address changes to Fine Cooking,
The Taunton Press, Inc., 63 South Main St., P.O. Box 5506,
Newtown, CT 06470-5506.
Printed in the USA.

16 F I N E COOKING
HOW TO CONTACT US:
Fine Cooking
The Taunton Press, 63 S. Main St., PO Box 5506,
Newtown, CT 06470-5506 203-426-8171
www.finecooking.com
Editorial:
To contribute an article, give a tip, or ask a
question, contact Fine Coo king at the address
above or:
Call: 800-309-0744
Fax: 203-426-3434
Email: fc@ta unton.com
Customer Service:
For subscription inquiries, you can:
• Visit our subscriber service section at:
www.finecooking.com
• Email us:fcservice@tau nton.com
• Call our customer support center:
To report an address change, inquire about
an order, or solve a problem, call:
800-477-8727
To subscribe, purchase back issues, books
or videos, or give a g ift, call:
800-888-8286
Advertising:
To find out about advertising:
Call: 800-309-8940
Email : fcads@ta unton.com
Member Audit �The AuBurediatu

Bureau of Circulation
Retail:
If you'd like to carry Fine Cooking in your store,
call the Taunton Trade Company at:
866-505-4674
Mail ing List:

Occasionally we make our subscribers'
names and addresses available to responsible
companies whose products or services we feel
may be of some interest to you. Most of our
subscribers find this to be a helpful way
to learn about useful resources and services.
If you don't want us to share your name with
other companies, please contact our Customer
Service Department at:
800-477-8727
The Taunton Guara ntee:

If at any time you're not completely satisfied with
Fine Cooking, you can cancel your subscription
and receive a full and immediate refund of the
entire subscription price. No questions asked.
Copyright 2004 by The Taunton Press, Inc. No reproduction

without permission of The Taunton Press, Inc.
READER SERVICE NO. 1 08
O CTOBE R / N oV E MB E R 2004 17
Just like raising kids, making great wine isn't a 9 to 5 job. At least, not the way we do it here at
Woodbridge. I've been working with my team for more than twenty years, day and night, to keep
making our wines better. And from back when the winery got started, we've known there aren't
any shortcuts. So we age our wines in small oak barrels, and we sample every barrel over and over
again (that's the fun part). All to bring you our great tasting, award-winning wines. And then,
after I've tucked my wines in for the night, I can sleep just fine.
"
WOODBRIDGE
WOODBRIDGE
TASTE OUR SMALL WINERY TRADITION.'"
Information Technology Services: Applications Development:
Marjorie Omalyev, Heidi Waldkirch, Carole Ando, Gabriel
Dunn, Robert Nielsen, Linda Reddington. Lawrence Sullivan,
The Taunton Press

John Vaccino. Desktop and Network Support: Kenneth
Jones, Michael Colonari, Michael Lewis, Jay Ligouri, Joseph
t peek in on "
Inspiration for hands-on living�
Manganello.
Marketing: Judith Baker, Dominique Clancy, Nancy Clark,

aoey Crider, Ellen Williams Kracht, Marissa Lacshaw, Kathy
som.eth-1ng new_ - David
Levis. Karen Lmjen, Heather Reynolds. Mary Lou von def
Lancken. Public Relations: Tonya Polydoroff, Jodi laPoint,
I N D E P E N D E N T P U B L I S H E RS S I N C E 1975 Janel Noblin.
Operations: Joseph Morits, John Gedney, Sally Kirwan,

Try our bold, velvety Red Dirt Ridge
TAUN TON , I N C .
Jennifer Licursi, Susan Nerich, Jeannette Pascal, Dorothy Cabernet Sauvignon, and taste luscious
Founders, Paul and Jan Roman Simpson, Ward Willis. T Room: Michael Louchen, Geraldine
THE TAU TON P R E S S Benno, Katherine Leaman, Anna Pendergast. Norma-Jean blackberry, black cherry, chocolate, and
Taylor. Maintenance: Alvin Jack. Lincoln Peters.
President & CEO John Lively
Promotion: William Brady, Stace Case ria, Mary Beth Cleary, no res of vanilla that fill your mouth
Editor In Chief Su e Roman Michele Mayernik, Sandra Moryka, William Sims. Promotion
ChiefMarketing Officer S arah Roman Print Production: Diane Flanagan, Cathy Bloomberg, John with flavors. It's part of our new Select
Cavallaro, Dawn Viglione.
ChiefFinancial Officer Tunothy Rahr Taunton Creative and Editorial: Creative: Robert Goodfel1ow, Vineyard Series, handcrafted wines from
Chief of Operations Thomas Luxeder
W. Kathy Martin, Sarah Opdahl, Pamela Winn. Editorial:
Publisher, Magazine Group Jon Miller Jefferson Kolle. Photography: Scott Phillips. Video: Gary Junken. specially selected vineyards. They're all
Publisher, Book Group James Childs !'repress: Deborah Cooper, Richard Booth, William Bivona,
David Blasko, James Chappuis, Richard Correale, William worth more than just a look.
DI RECTORS
Godfrey, Brian Leavitt, Chansam Thammavongsa. Advertising
Crtativt Diuctor Su san Edelman Production: Laura Bergeron, Tracy Goodpaster, Steven Molnar,
Patricia Petro, Kathryn Simonds, M,artha Stammer.
Human Resourus Director Carol Marotti
Taunton Direct: Nannene Dorsey. Nicole Carpenter, Robert S E L E C T V I N E YA R D S E R I E S
Technology Services Director Edward Kingston
Controller Wayne Reynolds
Harlow, Jorge Londono.
Taunton New Media: Jodie Delohery, Chrisropher Casey,

try WO O D B R I D G E
Marketing Director, Magazines Diana Allwein Mark Coleman, Ruth Dobsevage, Jennifer Wheeler.
Promotion Director Steven Turk Taunton Trade Company: John Bacigalupi, Allison Hollett,
Trina Bayles, Diana Mackey, Eve Pison, Elizabeth Quintiliano.
Fulfillment Director Patricia Williamson
Single Copy Sales: Mark Sriekman, Valerie Droukas.
TAUNTON TRADE COMPANY
Director, Kathleen Davis
l
W Ql O D B 1t l � 6I E.
TAUNTON D I RECT
President, Sarah Roman
TAUNTON NEW M E D IA
Publisher, Thomas Falconer ( /1;;",,/,,,,"/(

J�,tA( BY N D J,AV.rlir;>
Director, Leslie Kern TAUNTON MAGAZINES
Fine Woodworking · Fine Homebuilding RO B E RT M O
Threads • Fine Gardening
T H E TAUNTON STAFF
Fine Cooking • Inspired House
Books: Marketing: Melissa A. Possick, Audrey Locorotondo.
Editorial: Maria Taylor. Helen Albert, Peter Chapman. Our magazines are for people who are passionare
Barbara Cole, Steve Culpepper, Robyn Doyon-Aitken, about their pursuits. Written by practicing experts in
Maureen Graney. Julie Hamilton, Pamela Hoenig. Carolyn the field, Taunton Press magazines provide authentic, RE D DIR T RID GE
Mandarano, Jennifer Peters, Amy Reilly, Erica Sanders-Foegc.
Kathleen Williams. Art: Paula Schlosser, Joanne Bisson,
reliable information supported by instructive and
inspiring visuals.
C A B E RN ET S AU V I G N O N
Nancy Boudreau, Sandra Mahlstedr, Wendi Mijal, Tinsley
Morrison, Lynne Phillips. Carol Singer, Rosalind Wanke. TAUNTON BOOKS
LO 01
Manufacturing: Thomas Greco. Laura BUfrone. Our books are filled with in-depth information and
Business Office: Holly Smith, Gayle Hammond. Legal: creative ideas from the finest authors in their fields.
Carolyn Kovaleski. Magazine Print Production: Philip Van Whether you're practicing a craft or engaged in the
Kirk, icale Anastas. creation of your home, Taunton books will inspire you
to discover new levels of accomplishment.
Distribution: Paul Seipold, Frank Busina, Leanne Furlong.
Deborah Greene, Linnea Ingram, Frederick Mannes,
Raymond Passaro, Chad Piche, Thomas St. Cyr, Alice Saxron.
WWW.TAUNTON.COM
Our website i s a place where you can discover more
Finance/Accounting: Finance: Kathy Worth. Susan
abour the interests you enjoy, converse with fellow
ladarola, Brett Manning, David Pond, Jeanne Todaro.
enthusiasts, shop at our convenient on-line store or
Accounting: Patrick Lamontagne. Dorothy Carbone, Lydia
contact customer service.
Krikorian, Judith O'Toole, Elaine Yamin, Carol Diehm,
Margaret Bafundo, Dorothy Blasko, Susan Burke, James Post,
Lorraine Parsons, Priscilla Wakeman.
EMPLOYMENT INFORMATION
To inquire about career opportunities, please e-mail
Fulfill ment: Diane Gowan. Clitnt Savius: Jodi Klein,
us at rauntonjobs@taunton.com or visit our website
Donna Capalbo, Nancy Knorr, Michele Ladyko. Customer
Serviu: Ellen Grassi, Michelle Amoroso, Bonnie Beardsley,
Michelle Berry, Katherine Clarke, Alfred Dreher, Monica
www .tauntoll.COI11 . You may also write to The Taunton
Press, Human Resources, 63 5506, S. Main St., Box
Duhancik, Kimberly Eads, Margaret Hicock, Barbara Lowe,

Newtown, CT 06470.
Eileen McNulty. Patricia Parks, Deana Parker, Patricia
Pineau, Ellen Stacy, Betry Stepney, Marylou Thompson.
CUSTOMER SERVICE
We are here to answer any questions you might have
Data Entry: Melissa Dugan, Anne Champlin, Mary Ann
and to help you order our magazines, books and videos.
Colbert, Joanne Lefferts, Debra Sennefelder, Andrea
Sharrock, Barbara Williams, Brian Wilcox.
JUSt call us toll-free at 800-888-8286.
Human Resources: Linda Ballerini, Christine Lincoln, The Taunton Press, Inc., Taunwn Dirccl, Inc., Taunton Trade Company, Inc.,
Dawn Ussery. and Taunton New Media, Inc., are aU subsidiaries ofTaunton, Inc.
O C TOBE R / N O V E M B E R 2 0 0 4 19
aw or
has a split personal the ground. Fennel thrives in cool

Raw, it's got wonderful weather; its seasons are spring
crunch and a cool flavor laced and fall, though as with many
anise . But when it's braised, vegetables, it's usually available
roasted, fried, baked, or grilled, year-around. Grocers sometimes
Easy ways
fennel reveals its other side: It label fennel as anise, a misnomer.
gets soft-even silky-and its Fennel is a natural partner
licorice flavor melts away to just for fish and shellfish, particularly with fennel
a hint of its raw self. shrimp and scallops, but it's also
Make a fennel gratin by layer
There are two forms of ed very good with pork, chicke n ,
ing blanched fennel slices in a
ible fennel. One is strictly an lamb , beef, a n d duck. It pa irs
gratin dish with tomato sauce
herb whose leaves, stalks, and well with onions, leeks, toma
or cream. Top either version
seeds are used as flavorings; the toes, artichokes, and potatoes.
other-often called Florence fen As for seasonings, take a cue with fresh breadcrumbs
nel-is the vegetable we find in from fennel's region of origin, the tossed with olive oil and
the market. Mediterranean. Olives and olive grated Parmesan and bake
We refer to fennel "bulbs," but oil, lemon juice, balsamic vinegar, until tender and bubbly.
that swollen portion is really the saffron, anchovies , and the anise Parboil fennel wedges, set
thickened, succulent stem of the flavored liquor called pastis are on a broiler tray, top with
plant growing in tight layers above good matches. butter and grated Parmesan,
and broil until browned
and bubbly.
How to tri m and cut fennel for any dish Grill blanched wedges of
To prep fennel, I trim off and fennel, drizzle with balsamic
vinegar, and serve as a
d iscard the stalks and fully
side dish or add to a pasta
expanded leaves, or save them
or salad.
to use in stocks. I often save the
Make a salad of thinly sliced
dense, tight, baby leaves for
fennel, arugula, apples, and
mincing and garnishing the
shaved Parmesan or Dry Jack
finished dish. If the outer layer cheese. Toss with an anchovy
of the bulb is in good shape spiked vinaigrette.
and isn't too fibrous, I use it; Wedges for braiSing or Vertical slices for grilling
roasting or frying
Cook thin slivers of fennel
otherwise, I break it off and slowly in oil until caramelized
feed it to my rabbit. I carefully and serve as a side dish or as
trim off a thin slice of the root a topping for crostini or pizza.
end, leaving the rest of the core Fry fennel. Dip thinly sliced
i ntact to hold together wedges fennel in lightly whisked egg
or vertical slices (top two whites, dredge in seasoned
photos at right). For diced or flour or cornmeal, and fry.
slivered fennel, I'll cut the bulb Sprinkle with salt and lemon
juice and eat while hot.
lengthwise in half or quarters,
and then cut away the dense Slivers or dice for sautes, Crosswise slices for
inner core. soups, or risotto salads (In Season continues on p. 22)
20 F I N E COOKI N G Photos except where noted: Scott Phillips

CREATE Sculpt. Style. Shape. Imagine
a knife that inspires creativity while defining innovation. A Messermeister blends
FOR GOURMETS & INDIVIDUALS
ergonomic perfection with exacting performance. Effortless cuHing is enhanced by
an exclusive hand-finished Elite edge, the sharpest of all forged German cutlery.
Alternating recessed Granton pockets enable the knife to glide where others bind,
while a master chef's camber provides ultra-precise rocking action. Experience
Messermeister at fine specialty stores.
WHY JUST COOK WHEN YOU CAN CREATE?
Access & bid on items from

simple to rare, exotic and
hard to find
Constantly offering
something new
Choices from filet mignon to
pheasant, buffalo, venison,
(jO(ififtet/Ood/fa,ctiOl(, (}(Jlft
pastas and much more
UlU/ttI.
1 ·888· 5 9 2 · F O O D (3663)
�
It
y
-.:. --
Visit surlatable.com to find a store near you, request a catalog or place an order.
retail stores · catalog 800 243 -0852 • culinary program · gift registry · surlatable.com
1 ·888· 5 9 2 · F O O D (3663)
O C T O B E R/N O V E M B E R 2004 21
Bra i sed Fennel with Pastis
Serves four.
If you don't have a pan large enough to hold all
the fen nel wedges in one layer, brown the fen nel
in batches on top of the stove, and then braise
them in a covered pan in the oven. Plan on one
large bulb for every two people. Pastis, an
anise-flavored liquor, is my favorite, but if you
can't find it, Pernod is a good substitute.
2 large bulbs fennel (about 2% pounds tota l),

rinsed and patted dry
Pinch saffron threads (optional)
2 tablespoons olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons pastis, or 1f4
cup dry white wine
or vermouth
% cup homemade or low-salt chicken broth
or water
Trim off the fennel stalks. Trim about 2 tablespoons

of the frilly, dill-like leaves from the stalks and set
aside. Discard the stalks (or save to add to soups
Fennel as a
or broths). Cut the bulbs into lengthwise quarters,
or, if the bulbs are very large, into sixths. Each
supporting player wedge should be 2 to 3 inches wide and should
be held intact with a portion of the core. Set a
large (1 O-inch) skillet over medium heat. If using
.:. When making risotto, add diced
the saffron, put it in the dry pan and let heat for a
fennel along with leeks or onions to the couple of minutes. Pour in the olive oil and swirl
pot before adding the rice. to coat the bottom of the pan. Add the fennel
.:. Boil fennel slices until tender, puree wedges, flat side down, and season lightly with
salt and pepper. Increase the heat to medium high.
them, and then fold them into mashed
When the first side is brown, after 3 minutes, turn
potatoes. the fennel and season again with salt and pep-
.:. Tuck thin slices of fennel and lemon per. Brown the second flat side, turn, season, and
inside whole fish before roasting or brown the rounded side the same way. The total
browning time should be about 1 0 minutes.
grilling.
Lower the heat to medium, give the pan a
.:. Put fennel wedges in the roasting min ute to cool slightly, and then add the pastis,
pan alongside chicken or pork, or set wine, or vermouth. Let the alcohol cook until
nearly evaporated, 30 to 6 0 seconds, and
the meat on a bed of thinly sliced fennel.
then add the broth or water. Lower the heat to
.:. Simmer diced fennel and tomatoes medium low, cover, and simmer gently until the
together for a flavorful base for fish core is tender when pierced with a table fork,
chowder or vegetable soup. 30 to 40 minutes. Turn the pieces every 1 0 min
utes so they cook evenly and, if necessary, add
.:. Add thinly sliced fennel to your more water, % cup at a time, to keep the pan
favorite lemon-Dijon vinaigrette and let Fennel likes spring a n d fall's shorter from getting dry. (A glass lid makes it easy to
sit for 20 minutes so the fennel softens days and cooler temperatures. To pre monitor the moisture level.) While the fennel
somewhat. Use to dress a salad or as cooks, m ince the reserved leaves.
vent bolting in the long, hot days of
Transfer the fen nel wedges to a platter,
a sauce for salmon. summer, time spring fennel plantings turning them to sit on their rounded sides. If the
.:. Add fennel to leek and potato soup to be mature by mid-June, before the braising liquid looks watery, boil briefly until it
for another dimension of flavor. summer solstice. In regions with long reduces to a syrupy consistency. Drizzle the
growing seasons, fall is an excellent syrupy juices over the fennel, season to taste
.:. Simmer diced or slivered fennel with with salt and pepper, and sprinkle the minced
time to grow fennel. If fennel does go
white beans, or with chickpeas and leaves on top. Serve hot, warm, or at room
to flower in your garden, let the seeds
tomatoes. Drain, season with olive oil, temperature.
mature, harvest them when they've
lemon juice, salt, and pepper, and serve
turned brown and dry, and use them
as a warm or room-temperature salad.
in spice mixes to flavor meats, soups, Ruth Lively writes, cooks, and gardens in
pickles, and vinaigrettes. New Haven, Connecticut . •
22 F I N E COOKING Bottom photo: Boyd Hagen

AN OVERNIGHT SUCCESS
Dickinson's
For many years,
STORY, Y IN THE MAKING
Preserves remained something ofa well-kept secret, once served
100 EARS
in on� the pnest hotels and restaurants. Thanks to delightedguests, the word spread and demand
grew. Dickinson's betfn offerint their specialtypreserves to grocers andgourmetfood stores. Today,
Dickinson's is one oJAmericaSfovorite gourmet:ereserves. Yet our secret to success is the same as
in I897: Pure� The Finest® ftuit.from the Pacific Northwest.
EXTRAORDINARY RECIPES,�
EXTRAORDINARILY EASY!
Easy Lemon-Berry Dessert Topping Strawberry Lemon Frost Shakes
112 jar Di
112 jar Di
ckinso Pure SeeCurd
ckinso n's® Lemon
n's® dless Black Raspberry Preserves
/.
I ·ar Di ckinso
n's®
3 4 jar Di ckinso
Pun: SeedlCurd
n's® Lemon
ess Pacific Mountain® Strawbe
rry
I 8-oz. p�. Cream Cheese, sofiened 1 Plain

c.c. Yogurt
Option:il: '!lerries, fresh or frozen 112 Apple Juice
4 Ice Culies
Makes about 2 cups. SER VING 1000:
1
Puree all ingredients togrilier. Refrigerate for hr. Optional: Strawberries, fresh or frozen
Serve over yout mvorite angel food, pound or Combine all ni �ents in a blender container
and process until frothy. Divide intotwO
Trycheese
cake. Use filling in Chocolate or pastry cups.
creating your own dessert masterpiece... pour
sauce into a squeeze bottle and swirl onto dessen
stemmed �asses and garnish
Makes 2 servings.
with strawberries.
piate and overyour dessen for an degant, picture

perfect
treat!
Citrus Chicken with Raspberry Sauce
Marillode: Sauce:
81 jar Dickinson's® Lemon or Lime Curd I jar Di ckinso
oz. Plain Yogurt
3 Tbsp. . Cilantro, chopped 2
n's® Pure
TM Seedless
Cascade
Mountain Red Raspberry Preserves
Tbsp. Lime Juice
11 '!P.
sm. lalapeno Pepper, seeded chopped
Salt
&
6 Chicken Breast Halves, skinless, bondess
In bowl Curd, yogurt, cilantro,
a medium combine
jalapeno and salr, blend wd!. Marinate Chicken for 4 M.
or overnight. D iscattl
no ionS": pink
marinade.
Scichicken.
r Preserves
together
GriU chicken until �
it
and lime juice
and driUJe over
servings.
Serve immediardy. Makes 6
For moreonlfruiine tfoat lwww.dickinsonsf

recipes, serving & saeasonal ideas or product informati
mily.com or call I-Boo-JELLIES. on, visit us
TRADITIONAl PRESERVES PURELY FRUIr® SP READABLE FRUIT ORGANIC FRUIT SPREADS FRUIT BUTTERS FRUIT CURDS RELISHES PEPPER SP READS

© 2004 The JM Smucker Company ® Registered trademarks a/The JM. Smucker Company
such as balsamic or red-wine vinegar,
near the end of the cooking process
can kick up the flavor some.
Or, use other liquids in place
I love making Thai curry at home but I can of the wine. Some options include
never fi nd kaffi r lime leaf. What is this tomato juice (a 1 4 Y2-ounce can of
diced tomatoes conta ins a cup of
i n gredient, and where can I fi n d it? -Adam Weiss, via email
juice along with a scant cup of toma
toes, which add texture to the stew) ,
orange juice, beer, o r even coconut
Su-Mei Yu replies: Kafnr lime leaf is that secret ingredient milk for a curry-flavored stew. If it's
that brings a Thai curry together: It coaxes out the aromas a pork stew, you might also consider
and flavors in the spice blend, it rounds out the entire dish, apple j uice or cider. I also like to
and it lends a bouquet all its own. The leaves come from the makrut substitute mushroom broth for red
lime tree and are sold at Asian markets . Expect to see less and less wine, soaking Y2 ounce dried mush
of the term "kafnr, " because it's derogatory in Arabic and in some rooms (any kind) in 1 Y2 cups boiling
southern African languages . More and more recipes now refer to water for 5 minutes and straining;
the ingredient as mah krud ( its Thai name ) or wild lime leaf. add the reconstituted mushrooms
When I can't nnd fresh leaves, I don't bother with dried or frozen to the stew if you like.
versions, because they lack the fresh version's essence. Instead, sub PamAnderson is a contributing
stitute grated lime zest, which will add a citrusy dimension, although editor to Fine Cooking and
not the perfume for which this Thai ingredient is renowned. a cookbook author. Her most
Su-Mei Yu is the author of Cracking the Coconut recent book is CookSmart.
and Asian Grilling.
How do I store a tomato that's

I've always read that pie dough too much, the butter begins to melt,
Have a been sliced into?
and the gluten in the flour becomes
q u estio n of should be handled as little as -Roberta Brown,
too elastic, producing tough, over
g e neral inte rest Boston, Massachusetts
possible, yet I make a tender worked dough.
about cooki n g ?
Carole Walter is a pastry teacher Dennis Kihlstadius replies:
Send i t t o O&A, crust by smearing the dough and the author of several cookbooks, Keeping a tomato out of
Fine Coo k i n g ,
with the heel of my hand. including Great Pies & Tarts. the refrigerator is crucial to
PO B o x 5506, preserving its flavor. Once a tomato
Newtown, CT Why is this so successful? falls below 50°F, its flavor enzymes
-Barbara Steer, via email
What can I use in place of
06470-5506, are destroyed. This also causes the
or by email to red wine in beef stews and texture of the tomato to break down
Carole Walter replies: Gen and become mealy.
fc@taunton.
erally, pie dough should be pot roasts?
com, and we ' l l
After slicing a tomato, cover the
handled as little as possible -Rose Thomas,
cut side only ( not the entire tomato)
fi nd a cooki n g
so that you don't get a tough crust. Birmingham, Michigan
with plastic wrap. Then set the to
professional
While there are many ways to com Pam Ande r s o n r e p l i e s : mato, cut side down, on a flat plate.
with the answer.
bine butter and flour, the smearing There are many options for Storing it this way on the counter
you describe is a European pastry those who don't want to cook top, not in the refrigerator, should
blending method called fraisage with wine. A classic red-wine stew allow you to safely keep the tomato
( pronounced freh-sAZH) . Here , the or pot roast is usually simmered in a for at least another 24 hours.
butter pieces are cut into the flour combination of red wine and broth. It's most important to cut the
until they're the size of beans. Then Figure 3 cups of liquid (2 cups broth tomato with a clean knife, not one
the butter pieces are smeared into and 1 cup wine) for every 3 pounds that was used to slice meat for your
the flour on the countertop to in of meat. One of the simplest alterna sandwich or to spread mayonnaise.
corporate them, allowing the fat to tives to wine is to make the stew or This prevents cross-contamination
wrap itself around the flour. This roast with all broth. ( Note that un of other organisms to the tomato.
shortens the strands of gluten, which less it's homemade, canned low-salt Dennis Kihlstadius is a technical
produces a more tender pastry with chicken broth is preferable to canned consultant to the California
a nner texture . But be careful: It's beef broth in a stew made with red Tomato Commission and the
easy to overdo fraisage. If you smear meat ) . Adding a splash of vinegar, Florida Tomato Committee . •
24 F I E COOKING
PURE VERMONT
MAPLE SYRUP 2 cookie/jel .':) roll
pans (18xl,xi)
GRADE A MEDIUM &achrome
Y2 Gallons . . . . . . $34.95 coolinggrid.
Quarts . . . . . $23.50
.. .
shi&ppingchange.
Other grades sizes available.
·Price iPrinclcuesdessubject
to and handling.
GREEN MOUNTAIN
SUGAR HOUSE
MaLUDLOW,
de by Native Verm820onters
RTE.100NVTBOX05149
AOS Degree ill Ie Cordoll Bleu VISIT OUR WEB SITE: .gmsh.com www
Culillary Arts or Hospitality 6- ORDER TOLL FREE 1 -800-643-9338
Restaurallt Mallagement READER SERVICE NO. 1 1 2
Certificate ill Bakillg 6- Pastry Arts

Hands-on training for careers in fine
restaurants, top hotels, cruise ships,
food magazines and more!
;:
Live in San Francis o , a culinary capital!
Job placem n t assistance
.
Financial aid available if qualified
�
THE NEW VALUE FRONTlER
K!::Iadvanced
O[ERa ceramics
8 0 0 . 5 3 7 0 2 9 4 www. KyoceraAdva n c e d Ce r a m i c s . c o m
READER NO. 5 6
D i s c ove r S o n o m a C o u n ty's Fi n e s t
"
Frei Brothers Reserve

Andrew Frei founded the Frei Brothers
Winery in 1890 and located his vineyard in

the heart of Sonoma County, one of America's
most awarded winemaking regions. Today,
we carry on the Frei Brothers heritage,
crafting wines whose distinctive aromas and
flavors capture the land and climate of their
individual growing region. Experience some
of the best varietals from the most highly
regarded appellations in Sonoma County.
True to the Source

c:u. /,f90
FRE I B ROTH E RS"
R E S E RV E
True to the Source
/!
Cabernet' Sauvignon, Alexander Valley
Join us for
An intense and full-bodied wine, Cabernet Sauvignon
is an ideal complement for your holiday meal. Filled
holiday inspiration
with ripe, rich, and jammy flavors of plum and black
cherry, balanced with a touch of cocoa, sweet vanilla,
and know-how at
and toasty oak, Frei Brothers Reserve Cabernet
Sauvignon pairs well with Roasted Filet of Beef with
& Herb Crust.
holidayfeastingecom/cooking
Whole-Grain Mustard
Chardonnay, Russian River Valley

Big and intense, Frei Brothers Reserve Chardonnay
is big and intense with a long crisp finish. With
complex varietal characters of bright citrus, pear, and Memorable Menus, Wonderful Wines,
peach, it has a subtle hint of vanilla, spice, and toasty and The Right Equipment for the
oak and is an ideal complement to Butter-Rubbed, Best Holiday Celebrations Ever!
Cider-Glazed Roast Turkey and Dressing with Apples,
Bacon, and Caramelized Onions.
Frei Brothers Reserve, Fine Cooking
Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley
magazine, and Sur La Table - America's
Bursting with concentrated aromas and flavors of Culinary retailer, bring you an inspirational
bright berry, cherry, and rose petal, Frei Brothers
source for hosting friends and family this
Reserve Pinot N oir is an ideal pairing for holiday
turkey and beef dishes. Medium to full-bodied, it's holiday season, in unforgettable style.
smooth and velvety, and balanced by a hint of sweet
Visit our online guide holidayfeasting.com/cooking
vanilla and spice. Enjoy a glass with Brined & Sage
Butter Rubbed Roast Turkey with Mushroom Gravy. for great recipes and tips, wine and food pairing ideas,
and advice on the right equipment and tools to make
Merlot, Dry Creek Valley
your holiday entertaining easy.
For classic Merlot flavors of cherry, berry, and cocoa,
enjoy Frei Brothers Reserve Merlot. Medium-bodied
and with pure fruit flavors, it has firm tannins
balanced by subtle notes of vanilla and toasty oak and
is the ideal pairing with Spiced Rubbed Prime Rib.
en
Q.
.- WI N N I N G TI P
........ A better way to stuff
(f)
L
(and unstuff) a bird
Before I stuff chicken or turkey, I line the
(J)
empty cavity with a layer of rinsed cheese
cloth-and then I add the stuffing. This makes
removing the cooked stuffing much easier.
-0 I nstead of digging around with a spoon, I sim

ply grab the edges of the cheesecloth and pull
Cd out all the stuffing at once.

-Kim Marchuk,
(J)
L
Vancouver, British Columbia
A gold mesh
coffee filter
works overtime
My kitchen is very small, so I
try to get the most out of every
kitchen tool I have . I recently
A prize for
discovered that my reusable gold
the best tip
mesh coffee filter can do double-duty
Attention clever cooks:
as a strainer: After steaming clams,
We want your best
I wanted to reserve the broth but saw
tips-we'll pay for the
sand in the bottom of the pot. The
ones we publish-and coffee filter happened to be within
we'll give a prize to the reach, so I used it to strain the broth.
cleverest tip in each Now I also use the filter for straining
issue. Write to Tips, small quantities of sauce and gravy.
Fine Cooking, PO Box -Tonya Rubiano,
5506, Newtown, CT Westfield, New Jersey
06470-5506 or email
fc@tau nton.com. Pomegranate seeds
add crunch to
1 S-piece cast
cranberry sauce
iron fondue For years now, I 've been adding
pomegranate seeds to both cooked
Swissmar; cranberry sauce and sweet or savory
cranberry relish-they add a delight
A foil shield for pie crusts ful juicy crunch. For every two bags
To keep the edges of pie crust from browning of cranberries, I add the seeds of one
too quickly, I used to wrap little strips of foil pomegranate, taking care to remove
around the rim of the pie, a tedious process. all the bitter white pith from the
Now, I simply take a square of foil somewhat seeds. I add the seeds the night before
larger than the pie, cut a big through the
X serving, which gives them time to
center, and place it over the pie. Then I fold marinate in the acidity, sugar, and salt.
back the quadrants from the center and -Sarah Jane Freymann,
secure the edges of the foil around the pie pan. New York City
-Carol Spier, via email
(Tips continues on p. 30)
28 F I N E COOKING Photos: Scott Phillips
No Fear!
Leave it topressure
Swiss engicookineersng tosafemakeand easy.
KUHN
RIKON
SWI T ZERLAND
C Use our
edge to you r
adva ntage.
• Ha ndcrahed, one-piece
forged blades
• High performance
Dymondwood® ar
natural wood handles
• largest selection of
kullenschliff knives
•• Free factory sharpening
lifetime warranty
•• Rated in top three
American made
Available at fine gourmet

retailers, including:
••Sw.,. ifoTJ&
www.chefscatalog.com
DiKiff[chen
erent Drummer's
lAMSONSHARp™
•
AMERICAN MADE CUTLERY AND
Clay Advantage...
French chefs count on the benefits of Burgundy clay
KITCHEN TOOLS SINCE 1837
LAMSON & GOODNOW
Shelburne Falls, MA 01 370 USA
ovenware from Emile Henry for success in the kitchen and 1800) 872-6564 Fax (4 1 31 625-9816
on the table. Emile Henry brings out the flavor in every dish. Email infa@lamsansharp.cam
Call about our complete collection, 1-302-326-4800 www . lomsonshorp.com
www.emilehenry.com
READER READER SERVICE NO. 86
O C T O B E R/ N O V E M B E R 2 0 04 29
FREEZ I N G
Getting the air out of

freezer bags
To prevent freezer burn, it's important
to get all the air out of the freezer bag,
but most of us don't have a vacuum
sealer. Some people improvise by suck
ing the air out through a straw. I prefer
to put the food in the bag and immerse
the open bag up to the top edge in
water. The water pressure forces all the
air out of the bag. Then I zip the bag
closed and take it out of the water.
-Matt Kaspar, Austin, Texas
Trim beans by Freezing meat efficiently

the handful When I buy meat in bulk, I put small
Here's how to quickly trim portions into plastic sandwich bags,
green beans: Grab a handful, labeling and dating each with a perma
and, holding them loosely, tap nent marker. Then I put these small
the stem ends on the cutting bags into a big freezer bag and label it
board until all the stems line chicken, beef, or whatever. When I need
up. Then lay the beans on the meat, I take out a small bag or two, but
board and slice off the stems I leave the bigger bag in the freezer.
A baking sheet is handy in one cut. Repeat the process Not only does this save me money on
for dredging to remove the tips of the beans, freezer bags, but my meats also get
if you like . double protection from freezer burn.
When I dredge food for sauteing or
-Maria Reid, via email -Desiree Mendoza,
frying, I set a bowl of egg wash in the
Veradale, Washington
center of a rimmed baking sheet.
Then I scoop the flour and bread
crumbs directly onto the baking sheet
on either side of the bowl. This leaves
me with a clean counter and fewer
dishes to wash.
-Karen Brack,
Garland, Texas
Slice butter with
a pastry cutter
Keep a cookbook You can use a sharp-bladed
in the car pastry cutter to slice a cold
I keep an extra copy of my favorite stick of butter into perfect
cookbook in the car so that when I little pats.
stop at the supermarket on my way -Delores Jespersen,
home from work, I can just choose Grand Marais, Minnesota
a recipe from the book, jot down
the ingredients I need , and run into
the store to shop. Once I 'm home,
I prepare the recipe using the copy
of the book that I keep in my kitchen.
-Marcella Pascualy,
Mercer Island, Washington
30 F I N E COOKING
Wusthof was again rated by #1
America's top product testing
institute. Professional chefs and
fine cooks worldwide wil l settle
for nothing less. Nor should you.
800-289-9878 www.wusthof.com
For information call or visit
:
You can purchase Wastof at bloomingdale's macy's WILLIAMS-SONOMA a��on.com S....£t;..7iJ&
c U L 'cNaANRTYe: R"A R T S
(@Cooking.com· BEOBATH&
[ij:l#£iO/:v;'�.r"l BEYOND .-iI/pmf""""'.' ,7t:Ut1tnydir1'rl.
READER 1 04
We.re Big
on Pepper!
Pressure Cooker
Ava i l a b l e at:
.., WILLIAM BOUNDS LTD.

W i l l i a m s Sonoma
Bloomingd a l e ' s
Amazon.com
gourmetcatalog.com
310-375-0507 contact us at:
.wmboundsltd.com
www©2003 William Bounds, Ltd. info@wmf-usa.com
READER SERVICE NO. 4 READER SERVICE N O . 59
O C T O B E R / N o V E M B E R 2004 31
10
Though scaled down in size, these tools and
ingredients are big on function and flavor.
())
BY R E B ECCA F R E E D MA N
L
())
A miniatu re chopper
Unlike larger hand choppers on the market,
this one's size prevents small ingredients like
nuts and herbs from getting lost in the blades;
we found that chopped items are easy to
A s m a l ler scoop right out. The chopper also comes with
santoku knife a detachable spoon for removing ingredients
You may have seen larger santoku from the cup. Oxo Good Grips mini chopper,
knives on the market, but this one, with $ 1 4.99, at Bed, Bath & Beyond (800-462-
a blade of only 5 inches, is much more 3966; bedbathandbeyond.com).
compact than your average chef's knife.
It's a great option if you'd like a smaller,
all-purpose knife for your kitchen, or for A pocket g uide to
the novice cook who isn't comfortable dim s u m
wielding a larger blade. LamsonSharp
If you're unfamiliar with the small dishes
5-inch santoku knife, $59.99, at
that make up what Chinese restaurants
Professional Cutlery Direct (800-859-
call dim sum, then this little book is for
6994; cutlery. com).
you. With photos and descriptions, it
demystifies traditional dumplings, soups,
buns, and other treats you might en
counter while ordering. And we like that
the guide fits right in the palm of your
hand, so it's easy to tote along. Dim Sum:
A Pocket Guide, by Kit Shan Li, $Z95
(Chronicle Books). Lots of flavor in
a little cu be
For a quick way to add mushroom
Tiny casseroles for flavor to dishes, try these porcini bouil
ba king o r serving lon cubes. We keep them in the pantry
The next time you make individual baked and stir them into soups, creamy pasta
pastas or souffles, charm your guests with sauces, or rice dishes. Though you
these 8-ounce casseroles. They're great for might be tempted to use one or two
presentation and versatile, too-safe for the cubes at a time, we've found them so
oven, microwave, freezer, and dishwasher. intensely flavored that even half of one
We've used them for cooking, but they easily will do the job. Star Porcini Mushroom
double as serving pieces for soups, dips, or Cubes, $5 for a 3.9-ounce (1 O-cube)
condiments. Le Creuset Petite Casseroles, package, at Salumeria Italiana (800-
$ 1 4.95 each at The Chef's Resource 400-59 1 6; salumeriaitaliana.com).
(866-765-2433; chefsresource.com). (Great Finds continues on p. 34)

Photos: Scott Phillips
Fully equipped and
multi-programmable $199 at
Williams-Sonoma, Sur La Table,
and other fine Retailers,
Catalogs and Websites.
CAPRESSO, the finest collection

of quality Coffee Makers and
Espresso/Cappuccino Machines.
www.capresso.com
The choice of
discriminating cooks worldwide.
Freezer t o ouen t o table
to dishwasher -
created for a lifetime of
carefree elegance.
The well-recognized green

stamp on tile underside of all
PjJJiuuyf products is your
guarantee of /86 years

of unriualled craftsmanship
and quality.
Laporcelaine depuis 1818

/-866-938-/ 672
www.pi / l i u u y t us . c o m
O C T O B E R/ N o V E M B E R 2004 33
Spoon rest built for two
For us, this spoon rest resolved a small but
persistent quandary: Where to put a second
Flexible stirring spoon when you're cooking two
knife b l ock dishes at once? This stainless-steel
We like this knife block rest cradles both utensils so you
for its creative design won't make a mess of your stove.
twist: Its interior is Amco double spoon rest,
made of plastic bristles. $ 1 4.95 at Cooking. com
You'll never struggle to (800-663-88 1 0).
figure out which knives
go in which slots,
because knives of all
sizes slide effortlessly
through the bristles
into any spot.
WM F Flexible Knife
Block, $89.95 at
Tabletools.com (888-
2 1 1 -6603).
A simple sol ution

for g rating ga rlic
A cheese for many This may look like just a pretty dish,
wines but it's actually a garlic grater. By
Rich and nutty with fruity-caramel notes, rubbing peeled garlic cloves over
this aged Gouda gets our vote for the the dish's grooves in a circular
Miss Congeniality award. It's one of the motion, we pulverized the garlic
most wine-friendly cheeses we've ever in seconds. And unlike a regular
had and tastes just as good with crisp, dry grater or rasp (where little garlic
whites as it does with moderately tannic, pieces can get trapped) , the flat
fruity reds and dessert wines like Muscat shape of this dish makes it easy to
or Sauternes. Pradera Aged Gouda, scrape clean. Supergrater, $9.99 at
$ 1 5.95 per pound, at FormaggioKitchen. Gourmetcatalog.com.
com (888-2 1 2-3224). -Amy Albert
34 F I NE COOKING
------
CULINARY PARTS
u n l i m ited
-.I
WE'VE
II')
LuII')
YOUR GOT
PARTI
ULu
-
�ec:
�Lu
0ec:
�
Q
-.I
;:)
0U
For the ultim8te The Bowl Mill Route 1 00 I-
- Thousands of Genuine
shopping experience go to Granville, Vermont
ec: Manufacturer Parts &
Accessories for Over 40
CQLu Brands Including:
;:):lE
<:
II')- chenAldO Cuisinart·
K R U P S'
KltOster BRRun.
BONJOUR.
Producing Vermont Hardwood Bowls I-:r: SHIPPED WITHIN 24 HOURS!
dincc 1857
internet address: www.bowlmill.com �Lu 1-866-PARTHELP
C
On-line Factory Tour q;
II')
1-866-727-8435
yJ �
LE CREUSE On-line Secure Shopping
www.culinaryparts.com
Cuisinan ® Saeco. �SPRESSO.
NO. l 07
FREE BROCHURE
800-828-1005
Yo ------
New rel ease

On newsstands now
or order d i rectly from us
Own them all!

The fi rst t h re e issues of o u r special These special
series are sti l l avai l a b l e . O rd e r all fou r at collector's issues
once and save $1 0.50 on s h i pp i n g . contain loads
of our favorite
recipes, along
with menu ideas
and nutrition
information. And
each has a handy
at-a-glance index.
I�I The Taunton Press

To order, go to www.finecooking.com
or call us at 800,888,8286 and mention offer code M580018.
O C T O B E R/ N o V E M B E R 2004 35
S I L P A rr.,
It's not just for cookies anymore l
Silpat- used
See wwwfor.demarleusa.com for recipefrom
Summer Eggplant Parmesan
Silpat- - The original non-stick baking mat France

For a FREE CATALOG of a l l t h e best in KitchenAid, No grease needed, easy toclean, and reusable thousands of times.
C u i s i nart. Wusthof, Le C re u set. All-Clad, a n d more, c a l l Great for ng and baking (tem
freezi res from -4O"F to
peratu soo"F)
1-800-338-3232 a n d m e n t i o n c o d e CC461K. This silicone& fiberglass mat is FDA, NSF- and Kosher certified.
U.S. chefscatalog.com
a d d resses o n l y. Available at these fine stores
- Sur Table - The Gourmet Kitchen
La
READER SERVICE NO. 94 NO. 97
READER SERVICE NO. 69 READER SERVICE NO. 98
36 FINE COOKING
TAUNTONHOllE BOOKS&VIDEOS fIlEWOOOWOflI<JNG _HOMEBIJILDIHG
' I I I
� FIlEGARIl£HIIG IHSPIREDHOUSf ,THREADS USTOMfRSERI'lCl
, C
• Marke tplac Home

e
• Appli
•
ances
CookCookboOks&
8akeware Great products for great cooks
Looking for a product you saw advertised in
•
• Cutlery
Fine Cooking magazine? They're all here, Find
quick product information or browse around the

• Gifts
organized list of products, And while you're here,
• Go unnet Foods
• Ingredi ents
enter to win great prizes! There's a new winner
every month,
• Kitchen Desi
gn
•
UtSeaensifoodslsTools&Mea& ts
• Kitchen
WIN GREAT PRIZES

• Schools tions &
, Travel
Organiza
Fine Cooking's
Visit one of Marketplaces
to enter the Great Prizes Sweepstakes,
•T
• Wmeableware&Beverages I �
Select Category IG
Find advertiser product information at finecooking.com
and enter to win great prizes !
new prizes
• Want to find more information about an advertiser
in this issue? Log on to Fine Cooking's new S hopping
Guide and enter to win great prizes!
each month Freshly designed and fun to use, our new guide is:
• Easy and convenient - see all of our advertisers

in one place
•• Timesaving - quick access to product information
Always available - log on anytime
LAMSONSHARP�
AMKEITRICCANHENMATODOELSCUITNLCERY18A37ND
Visit www.finecooking.comjshopping CObking.
Official Rules - No purchase necessary, Must be 1 8 years of age or older to enter, There will be 3 drawings (1 0/26/04, 1 1 /30104, 111 0105) during the promotion period, which runs from September 1 through
December 28, 2004, Odds of winning a prize depend on the total number of eligible entries received , For full Official Rules visit
Great Prizes" Sweepstakes Rules Requests, P.O, Box 25086, Rochester, NY 14625, Void where prohibited,
www .finecooking.com/shopping or send a SASE to: Fine Cooking "Shopping Guide
© 2004 The Taunton Press
O C T O B E R/ N O V E M B E R 2004 37
Dinner with friends
A Seattle Chef's
Celebrate the sweet, ripe flavo rs of late s u m m e r
with a rustic m e n u and a workable t i m etable
B Y T O M D O U G LAS
A
t this time of year, farmers'
markets in Seattle overflow
with summer's last ripe to
matoes, sweet peppers, and
tender green beans, and the
fall harvest is coming in with pears
and grapes of every color. Of course,
this doesn't j ust happen in Seattle.
Markets all across the country are
awash with gorgeous produce, and
that's a great reason to whip up a ter
rific dinner to share with friends.
Even though my wife, Jackie, and
I own four restaurants and work long
hours, we don't need an excuse to invite
guests to our home for dinner whenever
we can. Maybe it's because we both
grew up in big, convivial households
where dinner for twelve was common
place and there was always room for
another chair at the table.
Naturally, though, with our busy
schedules, it's important that we keep
entertaining hassle-free. This dinner
is easy to pull off because much of it
can be prepared ahead of time . (The
timetable on p. 43 will guide you. )
As a restaurant chef, I 've learned
the value of keeping things simple.
That's why this dinner menu features
a pair of succulent roast chickens.
What could be easier or more satisfy
ing? While the chickens roast, I just
set out the appetizer, finish the salad,
and spend time with our guests.
As soon as you put a cocktail in
someone's hand, the mood turns
festive. And a cocktail matched to the
menu or the season is an almost ef-

Relaxed Menu
Homemade Bia nco
with I cy G rapes
" Last of the

Ya k i m a Peppers"
Peperonata with
Baguette Toa sts
M u stard -Cru sted

Roast Chickens
Warm Green
Bea n , Pancetta
&Tom ato Salad
with Parmesan
Corn meal
Rosemary Cake
with Pine N uts &
O ra n ge G laze
We asked a Fine Cooking

reader to give this menu
a real-world test before
publication. Here's what
she reported:
"I found these recipes to be

fairly easy, and the timetable
was perfect. The mustard rub on
the chicken added great flavor
and sealed in moisture; the
green bean salad was beautiful
and delicious; and the cake
was fantastic! It had a perfect
balance ofherbs, zest, and
sweetness. The pine nuts were a
delightful surprise. "
-Christina Tilley,
Longmont, Colorado
O C TO B E R/ NoV E M B E R 2004 39
fortless way to make even the simplest the table. (You'll need a carving board
dinner seem special. My homemade with a moat because fat and juices will
b i anco p ractica l ly makes itself: run off as you carve . ) If you're plan
Rosemary, mint, and lemon zest steep ning to ask your guests to pass their
in a couple of bottles of Sauvignon plates up to you to be served, you can
Blanc. Six hours later, the wine is pile all the chicken on one beautiful
transformed into a fragrant herbal platter. But if you're going to pass the
aperitif. For a nice harvest touch, pour chicken around the table , I suggest
the bianco over frozen red grapes in you use a few smaller platters rather
stead of ice cubes. than a big, heavy one. You don't want
This time of year, I like to use the your guests to struggle.
last of the peppers from the Yakima Offer savory a nd sweet n i bbles
Valley, east of Seattle ( but you can for dessert. I put out ripe pears and
use a selection of sweet to medium grapes, a round of creamy, aged Quilli
hot peppers from your local grocery) sascutt goat cheese ( made by a local
to make a mushroom pe pero nata . producer ) , and a crusty loaf of the
It's colorful, olivy, salty, and piquant.Dahlia B akery's walnut bread. For
Spooned onto a crisp baguette toast, a bite of something sweet, I serve
wedges of one of my favorite cakes-a
it's the perfect starter. And since it can
be made well ahead , there's no last moist, orange-glazed cornmeal rose
minute work involved. mary cake that Jackie bakes a day
Roasting a pair of chickens keeps ahead and glazes on the day of the
your hands free. The mustard rub, party. ( I f baking isn't your thing, pick
which is slathered on the chickens a up something sweet at a good bakery. )
day ahead, was inspired by a prime-rib Then I pour each of my guests a glass
glaze that we served for years at Palace ofWhite Riesling Ice Wine or Moscato
Kitchen. The rub gets crusty and deli d'Asti, and we make a toast to the end
cious as the chickens roast to a golden of another beautiful summer.
nut brown. I like to take the chickens
to a temperature of about 1 70°F; this
leaves the meat thoroughly cooked
and succulent, but not falling off the
bone . The chickens need to rest for
at least 1 0 minutes before you carve
them, which gives you time to finish
up the warm salad of green beans ,
tomatoes, and Parmigiano Reggiano.
Prep the ingredients ahead of time
and finish the salad at the last minute.
w n e c h o c e s
I cook the green beans and make the
pancetta vinaigrette at the last minute
so the salad will be warm and flavor
ful. But in advance , I cook the pan
cetta and prep the tomatoes, chives,
and cheese. I also lay out the dressing
ingredients beside the stove . It then
takes just a few minutes to put the
whole salad together.
Jackie always sets the table beauti
fully, so I find it easier to carve the
chickens in the kitchen rather than at
40 FINE COOKING
Homemade Bia nco
with Icy Grapes
Serves six to eight.
About 1 pound gra pes,

preferably a la rge, seed less
variety such as Red Globe,
plucked from the stems
2 3-i nch sprigs fresh rosemary
2 3-i nch sprigs fresh m i nt
2 bottles (750ml each)
Sauvignon Blanc
2 3-i nch strips lemon zest (pared
with a vegeta ble peeler)
Rinse the grapes and pat them

dry. Spread on a rimmed baking
sheet and freeze until solid,
several hours before guests
arrive or overnight.
Rinse the herbs wel l. Open
the wine bottles, stuff 1 sprig
each of rosemary and mint and
a strip of lemon zest into each
bottle, recork, and refrigerate for
6 hours, or overnight.
To serve, set out glasses, put
3 to 5 frozen grapes (depending "Last of the Yakim a Peppers" Peperonata
on size) in each glass, and pour
Yields 3 cups; serves six to eight. Crackers, sliced baguette, or
in the chilled bianco.
baguette toasts (see "How to
If you make this dish a few days make baguette toasts" at left)
before your party, bring it to
room temperature and adjust Heat the '/2 cup olive oil in a
the salt, pepper, and vinegar 1 2-inch saute pan or skillet over
before serving. high heat. Add the peppers,
mushrooms, and onion, and
112 cup extra-virgin olive o i l ; saute, stirring frequently, u ntil the
more for seasoning (about
liq uid released by the vegetables
5 ta blespoons)
2 pounds (about 7) assorted
evaporates and the vegetables
mild to medium-hot fresh start to brown, 1 0 to 1 2 minutes.
peppers, stemmed, seeded, Reduce the heat to medium. If
How to make
baguette toasts and cut into Y2- i n ch d i ce
112 pound chanterelle, white
button, or cremini mushrooms,
the pan seems too dry, add a
l ittle more oil. Continue cooking
until the onions are translucent
Cut a bagu ette cleaned, stems trimmed, and and the peppers and mushrooms
roughly chopped (to yield are extremely soft, about another
on the d ia g o n al
a bout 2 112 cu ps) 1 5 minutes. Add the garlic and
i nto s l ices about 112 large yellow o n ion, roughly saute for 1 minute. Remove the
'/3 inch thick. chopped (to yield 1 cup) pan from the heat and sti r in the
1 tablespoon minced garlic
Brush the s l ices ol ives, parsley, capers, vinegar,
% cup pitted chopped Ka lamata
o n both sides with and anchovy paste. Stir in more
ol ives
ol ive oil to make the peperonata
o l ive o i l . Put the % cup pitted chopped green
ol ives, such as Picholine or
moist and oily. Season to taste
s l i ces u n d e r the
Lucques with salt and pepper and add
bro i l e r, turn i n g more vinegar if needed. Transfer
% cup finely chopped fresh
o n c e , u nt i l g o l d e n flat-leaf parsley the peperonata to a bowl and
a n d toaste d . 3 tablespoons capers, drai ned refrigerate or serve right away
and chopped with crackers, sliced baguette,
2 tablespoons red-wine vinegar; or baguette toasts.
more for seasoning
1 Y2 teaspoons anchovy paste
Kosher salt a nd freshly ground
black pepper
O CTOBE R/NoV E M B E R 2004 41

M u stard -Cru sted Roast Chickens
Serves six to eight. pans and put the chickens on
different racks in the oven, be
1 cup Dijon mustard sure to rotate them occasion
V2 cup minced shal lots (about
ally during roasting.) Spri n kle a
2 large)
l ittle salt and pepper over the
V4 cup minced garlic (1 2 to
chickens and then drizzle each
16 cloves)
with 1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil.
2 ta blespoons chopped
fresh thyme
Roast for 2 5 minutes. Remove
Kosher salt and freshly ground the roasting pan from the oven
black pepper and drizzle each chicken with
2 whole chickens, about another 1 tablespoon olive oil.
3% pounds each Reduce the oven temperature to
5 ta blespoons extra-virgin 35 0°F, rotate the pan, and con
ol ive oil for drizzling tinue roasting another 2 5 min
utes. Baste each chicken with
Make the mustard paste: In a fat from the pan (use a spoon or
small bowl, combine the mustard, a bulb baster). Rotate the pan
shallots, garlic, and thyme, along and roast until the chickens are
with 2 teaspoons salt and 2 tea deep golden brown, crusty, and
spoons pepper. cooked through, about another
30 to 45 minutes. The chickens
Pre p a re the chickens: Trim
are done when an instant-read
off and d iscard the wing tips.
thermometer inserted in the
Trim any excess fat from the
thickest part of the thigh reads
chickens, clean out the cavities,
1 70° to 1 75°F and the ju ices run
rinse under cold water, and pat
clear. Remove the chickens from
dry. Set the chickens on a large
the oven and let rest for 1 0 min
dish and, using your hands, rub
utes before carving.
the mustard paste all over the
Carve the chicken, taking
outside (top and bottom) of the
care to disturb the mustard crust
chickens. The coating should
as l ittle as possi ble. Arrange the
be generous but not gloppy.
pieces on one or two platters
Rub any remaining paste into
and bring to the table.
the cavities of the chickens.
Put the d ish in the refrigerator,
uncovered, and let the chickens
rest, breast side up, for several
hours or overnight.
Roast the chickens: Heat the

oven to 450°F. Put the chickens
on a rack in a large roasting pan,
a rimmed baking sheet, or two
smaller pans. (If you use two
42 FINE COOKING
A strategy for an easy di n ner
Up to three days ahead
Make the peperonata and the
mustard rub; refrigerate.
Up to one day ahead

Freeze the grapes.
Steep the bianco in the refrigerator.
Slather the chickens with the
mustard rub; refrigerate.
Bake the cake and brush with the
orange syrup.
The afternoon of the party

Glaze the cake.
Prepare the tomatoes and green
beans for the salad; cook and
Warm G reen Bean, Pancetta & Tom ato Salad chop the pancetta; set the dressing
with Parmesan
ingredients by the stove.
Serves six to eight. keep warm (or set aside at room
temperature if making ahead). Make baguette toasts.
This salad tastes best if the
Depending on the pancetta,
green beans are freshly cooked An hour before guests arrive
there might be lots of fat in the
and still warm when you toss
pan or there m ight be none. Pour Heat the oven.
them with the pancetta dressing.
the fat into a dish, measure out Slice the chives and cheese for
4 medium tomatoes (about 2 tablespoons, and return it to
the salad.
1 8 ounces), preferably ripe the pan, discarding the rest. Add
hei rlooms or garden tomatoes 5 tablespoons of the olive oil (or Remove the peperonata from the
5 tablespoons sherry vinegar more to compensate if you didn't refrigerator.
1 tablespoon honey get enough pancetta fat) for a
Y2 pound th i n ly sl iced pa ncetta Put the chickens into the hot oven
total of 7 tablespoons fat in the
5 to 7 tablespoons extra-virgin to roast.
pan. Set aside.
olive oil
When you're ready to serve,
1V2 pounds green beans, ends
bring a large pot of salted water
As guests arrive
trimmed (and cut in half if the
to a boil. Put the beans in the Pour the bianco and serve the
beans are extremely long)
Kosher salt and freshly ground
boiling water and cook until just peperonata.
black pepper tender, about 5 minutes. Drain
Put water on to boil for the green
V4 cup thinly sl iced chives the beans and spread on paper
beans.
4-ounce ch u n k Pa rmigiano towels or a dishtowel to dry
Regg i a no, shaved with a briefly. Put the warm beans in
vegetable peeler or cheese the bowl with the tomatoes and
Ten minutes before serving
plane (to yield about 1 cup set it at the back of the stovetop the main course
shavi ngs) to keep warm. Put the pancetta Cook the beans as the chickens rest
in a warm oven for a few mi nutes
Core the tomatoes, slice them Make the hot dressing and toss
while you finish the dressing.
in half horizontally, and flick out the salad.
Return the pan with the
most of the seeds and juice with reserved pancetta fat and oil to Carve the chicken.
a fingertip. Then cut the toma medium heat. When the fat is
toes into 1 -inch chunks and put warm, whisk in the vinegar-honey
them in a large serving bowl . m ixture, turn the heat to high,
In a small bowl, combine the and whisk until the mixture boils
vinegar and honey. and emulsifies. Immed iately pour
In a 1 0- or 1 2-inch saute pan the hot dressing over the vege
over medium heat, cook the pan tables in the bowl. Toss, season
cetta in two or three batches with salt and pepper, and add
until crisp and golden, 3 to the chives. Sprinkle the chopped
5 mi nutes per batch. Remove the pancetta over the salad and
pancetta from the pan, drain on scatter the cheese over the top ;
paper towels, roughly chop, and toss gently. Serve immediately.
O CTOBE R / N o V E M B E R 2004 43
Corn meal Rose m a ry Cake with
Pine N uts &
Orange Glaze
Yields one 9-inch cake; serves M a ke the cake: Position a rack
eight to ten. in the center of the oven and
heat the oven to 35 0°F. Butter a
FOR T H E CAKE:
Soft butter for the pan
9x2-inch round cake pan, line the
6% ounces ( 1 % cups) a l l - bottom with a round of parch
pu rpose flour ment, and butter the parchment.
4% ounces (% cup) finely ground In a medium bowl, whisk
yellow cornmeal (Quaker together the flour, cornmeal, pine
brand is fine) nuts, rosemary, orange zest,
Y3 cup coarsely chopped toasted baking powder, and salt.
pine nuts (about 1 % ounces) In a large bowl, briefly whisk
1 ta blespoon finely chopped the mascarpone to loosen it. Add
fresh rosemary the eggs one at a time, whisking
1 tablespoon finely grated to combine. Add the sugar and
orange zest
whisk until smooth. Using a rub
1 teaspoon baking powder
ber spatula, fold the dry ingredi
% teaspoon kosher salt
ents, in two batches, into the wet
5 ounces (% cup) mascarpone,
ingredients, m ixing until smooth.
at room temperature
4 large eggs Stir in the melted butter with the
1 0 ou nces ( 1 %cups) granu lated rubber spatula until blended.
sugar Scrape the batter i nto the
% pou nd (% cup) unsalted butter, prepared pan, spread evenly,
melted and bake until the entire top of
the cake is a rich golden brown
FOR T H E ORANG E SYR U P :
and springs back when pressed
% c u p fresh orange j u ice
gently in the center, 40 to
3 ta blespoons granu lated sugar
45 min utes. A skewer inserted giving the syrup time to sink sti ll wet, transfer the cake to
FOR THE ORANGE G LAZE: in the m iddle of the cake should i nto the cake, until you've used a cake plate.
1 ta blespoon whole fresh come out looking a bit moist, and all the syrup. Let the cake cool Let sit for an hour or more
rosemary leaves (stripped the sides of the cake may have completely. before cutting the cake into
from the stem but not begun to pull away from the pan. wedges and serving. The glaze
chopped) M a ke the orange g laze: Bri ng may or may not become firm,
5 ounces ( 1 % cups) sifted Make the o ra n g e syru p : While a small saucepan of water to a depending on the weather;
confectioners' sugar the cake is baking, combine the boil. Have ready a small bowl
5 tablespoons heavy cream
it's delicious either way.
orange ju ice and sugar in a small of ice water. Put the rosemary
2 ta blespoons fresh orange
saucepan over medium heat and leaves in a small sieve and dip it
j u i ce
cook for a few minutes, stirring i nto the boiling water to blanch
1 teaspoon grated orange zest
occasionally, until the sugar dis them for 1 minute. Drain the
solves. Remove from the heat. rosemary leaves and immed iately
Let the cake cool in its pan on set them (still in the sieve) into
a rack for 5 minutes. Run a small the ice water. Drain and spread
Make-ahead tip
Yo u c a n bake a n d
knife around the cake. Set an
inverted plate over the cake pan
the rosemary leaves on a paper
towel to dry. In a bowl, whisk
g l aze t h i s cake and, protecting your hands with the confectioners' sugar, cream,
the day you se rve a kitchen towel, invert the whole and orange ju ice until smooth
thing. The cake should slide right and then whisk in the blanched
it. Or bake it a day Tom Douglas owns
out onto the plate. Peel off the rosemary and the zest.
ahead, brush it parchment and set a 9-inch card When the cake is cool, Dahlia Lounge, Etta s
with the syrup, l et board round or another inverted transfer it to a rack set over a Seafood, Palace
it cool c o m p l etely, plate over the cake and, again, baking sheet. (If your cake isn't Kitchen, and Dahlia
wrap it in p l astic,
invert the whole thing. Remove on a cardboard round, use a Bakery in Seattle,
the top plate and the cake will wide spatula to transfer it.) Washington. •
a n d store at room
be right side up. With a wooden Pour the glaze over the top of
te m pe rature. The skewer or toothpick, poke a few the cake and let it drip off the
afternoon before dozen holes all over the top of sides. You can gently tilt the
your d i n n er, g l aze the cake. While the cake is still cardboard or the wire rack back
warm, brush the cake with the and forth to encourage the glaze
the cake.
warm orange syrup. Continue to completely flow over the top
brushing for several min utes, of the cake. While the glaze is
44 FINE COOKING
Cider-Glazed Tu rnips & Apples
with Sage Bacon&
Serves four to six.
Braising turnips transforms them into trans
lucent, buttery, tender morsels. I prefer small
turnips, but if all you can find are large ones,
be sure to peel them thickly (I use a paring
knife) or the turnip will be tough and taste
bitter. This dish is a perfect accompaniment
to roast lamb or pork.
1 Y2 pounds small pu rple-top or white turnips

(about 9 small)
4 slices bacon, cut into 112-inch pieces
2 tablespoons u nsalted butter
1 cup apple cider
2 teaspoons granul ated sugar
1 large firm, sweet apple such as Pink Lady
or Braeburn
2 teaspoons chopped fresh sage
Peel the turnips and cut them in half length

wise. Cut each half into wedges 1 inch thick
at the widest point.
Put the bacon pieces in a large skillet and
set over medium heat. Cook, stirring occa
sionally, until crisp, about 8 minutes. Transfer
to a plate lined with paper towels. Pour off
the bacon fat from the pan and set the pan
Turnips
back on the burner. Add the butter and,
when it's melted, add the turnips, apple cider,
sugar, and 1 1!2 teaspoons salt. Bring to a
boil over high heat. Cover the pan with the
are one of the most lid sl ightly askew, reduce the heat to medium
high, and cook at a steady boil, shaki ng the
unappreciated of all pan occasionally, u ntil the turnips are j ust
tender but not soft (a pairing knife should
the fa l l vegeta b le s , enter a turnip with just a l ittle resistance),
8 to 1 0 minutes. Meanwhile, peel and core
which is too bad, as they have a com
the apple and cut it into lh-i nch slices.
plex and intriguing flavor. Up front, they're U ncover the pan, add the sliced apples
and sage, and continue to boil, sti rring
strong and peppery, yet there are undertones of sweetness occasionally, u ntil the liquid has reduced to
a sticky glaze, 2 to 3 minutes. The turnips
as well. Their open-grained texture does a remarkable
should be soft and the apples should be
job of absorbing flavors when they're simmered in stews crisp-tender. (If not, add a few tablespoons
of water and continue to cook for another
and braises. I treat turnips as I do potatoes: I cut them in 1 to 2 minutes.) Toss i n the cooked bacon
and season to taste with black pepper and
wedges and roast them alongside chicken or pork. Or I
more salt if necessary.
steam them until tender with a potato or two, mash with a
bit of cream and butter, and fold in fresh chives or parsley.
Good flavor pairings for turnips include apples, bacon,
sage, mustard, and spices like cumin or coriander-all of
which help to balance turnips' assertive flavor. ( For more
on turnips, see From Our Test Kitchen, p. 80. )

Parsnips are incredibly
versatile . Like turnips , they're wonder
ful mashed with potatoes for a silky
Pars n i p Pancakes with
puree or roasted with pork. One of the Cara m e l i zed On ions &
Sour Crea m
simplest ways to cook parsnips is to cut them into thin
Serves four.
sticks, toss with olive oil, salt, and pepper, and roast These pancakes are perfect partners for a
simple roast like pork, lamb, or chicken. The
until sweet and caramelized. They make great pureed
onions can be cooked ahead and reheated
soups, either on their own or as a subtle " mystery just before servin g ; the parsnips can also be
parcooked, grated, and combined with the
ingredient" in broccoli, cauliflower, or squash soups. If chopped leek a few hours ahead.
possible, buy small to medium parsnips since they tend 3 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons unsa lted butter
to be more uniform in shape and will cook more evenly. 1 large or 2 small yellow onions, thinly sl iced
(to yield a bout 2 cu ps)
Larger parsnips have a tough core that should be cut
Kosher salt and freshly g round black pepper
away before cooking. I like pairing 1 pound small to medium parsnips (about
6 medium), peeled (if very th ick, halve
parsnips with rosemary, thyme , them lengthwise)
1 medium leek, white part on ly, finely
warm spices, and browned butter. chopped (to yield about V2
cup)
1 large egg, l ightly beaten
3 tablespoons all-pu rpose flour
Sour cream for garnish
In a medium skillet, heat 1 tablespoon each

of the olive oil and butter over medium heat.
When the foam subsides, add the onions and
cook, stirring occasionally, u ntil very soft and
golden, 20 to 25 minutes; reduce the heat if
they brown too quickly. Season with salt to
taste and set aside.
Meanwhile, in a large saucepan, bring
2 quarts salted water to a boil. Add the
parsnips (cut them in half if they don't fit in
the pan) and cook for 3 minutes. Drain, run
u nder cold water to cool them quickly, and
drain again very well. Grate the parsnips in a
food processor fitted with a medium grating
d isk. In a medium bowl, combine the pars
nips, leek, and egg. Stir in the flour, 1 tea
spoon salt, and 1fs teaspoon pepper.
In a 1 0- to 1 2-inch heavy skillet, heat the
remaining 2 tablespoons oil and 1 table
spoon butter over medium-high heat until the
foam subsides. Shape the parsnip mixture
into four equal balls. Put them in the skillet
and press on each with a flat spatula to make
a cake about 3V2 inches wide. Reduce the
heat to medium and cook until browned on
one side, 4 to 6 m inutes. Turn the cakes over
and brown the other side, 4 to 5 m inutes.
Flip to recrisp the first side, about 30 sec
onds. Drain briefly on paper towels and then
serve while hot, garnished with a large dollop
of sour cream and the caramelized onions.
O C TOBE R/NoV E M B E R 2004 47

Brussels
sorouts
-tk
sta
grow o n l a rge
s , and some markets carry them
in this impressive form . If you encounter
them, look for the stalk with the smallest sprouts, which
will be sweeter. Cooked properly, Brussels sprouts have
a pleasantly assertive , nutty, cabbagy flavor. But they're
not forgiving, and when overcooked they become stinky
and limp. One delicious preparation is to slice them
and saute them with browned butter and pecans. I also Creamy Brusse l s Sprout
Gratin
like to braise halved sprouts in stock with a bit of butter Serves six.
until tender and then reduce the liquid to a glaze at the Roasting Brussels sprouts and then adding
cream brings out their sweet, mellow side.
end; then I toss with lemon juice and fresh This gratin can convert even the most con
firmed Brussels sprout critic into a devotee.
thyme for a lovely side dish. Other good
2 pounds Brussels sprouts, stem ends
pairings for Brussels sprouts are bacon or
trimmed and outer leaves removed;
pancetta, walnuts, chestnuts, mustard, sage, sprouts cut in half through the stem end
3 tablespoons u nsa lted butter, melted
and other hardy herbs. Kosher salt and freshly grou nd black pepper
1 cup coarse fresh breadcrumbs (from a
baguette or other white bread)
3f4ounce (% cup) finely grated Gruyere
1 % cups heavy cream
Heat the oven to 425°F. Put the Brussels

sprouts in a shallow baking dish that will
hold them in a snug single layer ( a 9x1 3-inch
rectangle or slig htly smaller oval is good ) .
Toss with 2 tablespoons of the melted butter,
% teaspoon salt, and several grinds of
pepper. Spread them evenly in the dish and
roast, tossing once or twice, until browned
in spots and tender when pierced with a
knife, 25 to 30 minutes.
While the sprouts roast, combine the
breadcrumbs with the remaining 1 table
spoon melted butter and 1fa teaspoon salt in
a small bowl. Mix in the Gruyere.
When the Brussels sprouts are tender
and browned, pour the cream over them
and continue baking until the cream has
thickened to a saucy consistency and coats
the sprouts, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove the
pan from the oven. Set the oven to broil and
position a rack to 6 inches below the broi ler.
Sprinkle on the breadcrumb mixture. Broil the
gratin until the crust is deep golden brown,
about 5 min utes.
Twi ce-Baked Sweet Potatoes
with C h ipotle C h ile
Serves four.
Chipotle chiles are smoked jalapenos.
For this reci pe, you ' l l need them canned in
adobo; you can usually find them with other
canned chiles in the Mexican section of
the supermarket. The stuffed potatoes can
be made a day ahead, covered, and refriger
ated. Bring them back to room temperature
before baking.
4 small sweet potatoes of similar size

(about 3 pounds tota l), scrubbed
1 to 2 teaspoons olive oil or vegeta ble oil
V4 cup sour crea m ; more for serving
V2 chipotle ch ile in adobo, minced to a paste;
more to taste
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 lime, cut into qua rters
Heat the oven to 42 5°F. Put the potatoes on

a foil-lined baking sheet, rub them with the
oil, and arrange them so they're spaced as
far apart as possible. Bake until a skewer or
fork slips easily into the center of the potato,
50 to 55 min utes. Set on a rack to cool but
leave the oven on.
When the potatoes are cool enough to
Sweet
handle, sl ice off about the top one-quarter
or one-third (lengthwise) of each potato to
expose the interior. Peel off and discard the
potatoes
skin from this top section and put the potato
flesh in a medium bowl. Use a spoon to
scoop out the rest of the flesh of each potato,
leaving about %inch of sweet potato at
come in s everal varie tached to the skin to help retain its structure.
Put the potato flesh in the bowl.
ties, some creamier and Beat the sweet potato flesh, sour cream,
sweeter and others less so, but I use chile paste, butter, and salt with an elec
tric hand m ixer on medium speed just until
them interchangeably. Many markets label smooth. Taste and, if you want more heat,
mince more chipotle to a paste and add it.
sweet potatoes as yams, but true yams are very starchy
Mound the mixture into the potato skins and
and not as sweet, quite a different tuber altogether. Sweet set them i n a baking pan. Bake the stuffed
potatoes at 425°F until hot, 20 to 25 min
potatoes' earthy richness makes them a natural for gratins, utes. Serve with the lime wedges and more
sour cream.
soups, and pies. For a quick side dish, toss sweet potato
wedges in olive oil and roast them; they cook faster than
white potatoes. Or simply bake sweet potatoes in their
skins and serve with butter or sour cream. I like to add
a touch of maple syrup, molasses, or brown sugar to Eva Katz is a recipe
developer and food writer
highlight the vegetable's sweetness. Or I use that natural who lives in Jamaica
sweetness as a counterpoint to play off stronger flavors Plain, Massachusetts. •
such as ginger, chiles, and lime , spices like cumin and

coriander, and herbs like cilantro and thyme.
O C TOBE R/NoV E M B E R 2004 49

Make a quick batter,
"'--- saute a si m pl e fi l i n g,
and you've got
a brand-new trick
Tonight, Try a
for a casual di n ner
----....fUSt ess
BY R A N DALL P R I C E

M a ster Recipe for Savory Clafoutis
Serves six as a main course.
This batter comes together so
1 Prepare the fil ling: Follow
one of the recipes on pp. 52-53.
quickly that I prefer to whisk it
by hand at the last moment. That
said, you can also m ix it in a
blender or food processor, make
2 Mix the batter: Put the corn
starch in a medium bowl. Whisk
it a day ahead, and refrigerate it. ing steadily, slowly pour in 1/2 cup
The cornstarch and pepper settle of the m i l k, mixing u ntil quite
to the bottom after ten minutes, smooth. Whisk in the whole eggs
so if you do work ahead, you'll and egg yolks, mixing again until
need to rewhisk. smooth, and then gradually whisk
in the rest of the milk, the cream,
A filling recipe from pp. 52-53 salt, and cayenne. Use immedi
% cup cornstarch ately or refrigerate, covered, for
1 % cups whole m i l k u p to a day.
2 large eggs
2 large egg yolks
1 cup heavy cream
V2 teaspoon kosher salt
Pinch cayenne
3 Arra nge the fi l l in g: Butter
or oil a 2-quart, 7x1 1 -inch Pyrex
d ish or an 8x1 1 -inch ceramic
Butter or oil for the pan gratin dish. Spread the filling
over the bottom of the pan.
Position a rack in the top third
Scatter on the cheese and herbs.
of the oven and heat the oven
to 425°F.
4 Pou r the batter: Whisk the
batter in case it has settled and
then pour it over the fill ing. Bake
until the top is deep golden and
the custard is set (insert a pick in
the center to check; it should be
softly set, neither liquid nor firm),
2 5 to 30 minutes. Let stand for
30 minutes before serving.
A
s a personal chef, I'm always look
ing for something new and un
complicated that I can make on
a moment's notice. My "crustless
quiche" was born on one such day.
The inspiration for this savory treat ac
tually comes from a custard-like dessert
called clafoutis ( clah-foo-TEE ) , which is a
country French specialty. Served warm, a
traditional clafoutis is almost like a sweet
omelet or fritatta. But take out the sugar
and fruit and you have a perfect vehicle
for savory morsels to make a light sup
per dish or warming lunch; a quiche but
without the fuss of making pastry crust.
The basic batter is a snap to make, and the
filling variations are endless.
The batter takes two minutes to mix by
hand; it's simply eggs, milk, cream, and
cornstarch. The cornstarch makes the
O CTOBE R/NoV E M B E R 2004 51

'-7
Three
fillingsdeli
to c
geti o us
batter especially light, and I add just enough
to help the filling set. All-purpose flour
you started
works as well, but I find that it makes for a
heavier result.
Filling possibilities are endless. I first
tried this as a way to dress up leftovers .
But a crustless quiche is too good to limit
to using up last night's supper. The fillings
at right call for items you probably already
S h a l lots &
Bacon with
S u n -Dried Tom atoes
have in your refrigerator and pantry right
now. And the sidebar below right will give FILLI N G :
2 ta blespoons u nsalted butter o r
you yet more ideas.
vegetable o i l
The oven temperature is high so you can 8 sl ices bacon (about 1/4pound),
bake the clafoutis quickly. This, in turn, en cut into %-inch strips
sures an airy result. The top will turn deep 4 ou nces shal lots, finely d i ced
brown, but take care not to overbake or the (to yield % cup)
2 teaspoons granu lated sugar
custard can begin to separate and turn curdy.
1 ta blespoon balsa m i c or sherry Red Bell Peppers with
Follow the done ness tests in the method on vinegar
p . 5 1 . When done, the clafoutis will be set 4 oil-packed sun-dried tomato ha lves,
Thyme &
Goat Cheese
but may shimmy slightly in the pan. Like a roughly chopped (to yield a bout FI LLING:
quiche, this dish needs to sit for 30 minutes Va cup) 1 tablespoon olive oil
1 large or 2 med i u m red bell peppers
before serving so it cools and sets. C H EESE:
( 1 0 ounces tota l), cored, seeded,
Using the right pan is key, but nothing V2 pound wedge of Brie or a small and cut into %-inch dice
exotic is required. After much testing, I found Camem bert, rind trimmed, cheese Kosher salt
cut into %-inch-thick wedges
that this recipe works best in a 2-quart, C H EESE:
7xI I-inch Pyrex pan, which is easy to find in HERB: 4 ou nces fresh goat cheese, coarsely
supermarkets and hardware stores. Another % c u p chopped fresh flat-leaf pa rsley crumbled
good option is a ceramic gratin dish; if you Heat the butter or oil in a 1 O-inch skil let H ERB:
have one with those same dimensions , by over medium heat. Add the bacon and 2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves,
all means, use it. The pan needs to be shal shallots and cook, stirring, until they lightly chopped
low enough for the batter to bake through begin to brown, 8 to 1 0 m inutes. Stir in
the sugar and cook until the bacon and Heat the olive oil in a 1 O-inch skillet
quickly ( ideally, the batter will fill the pan
over medium-high heat. When the oil is
about Ph inches dee p ) . A 2-quart pan of shallots turn deep golden brown, about
hot, add the peppers and a generous
smaller dimensions will be deeper, and the 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and
add the vi negar. Stir in the sun-d ried pinch of salt. Cook, stirring often, u ntil
clafoutis won't cook through (the sides will the peppers soften and brown slightly,
tomatoes; set aside to cool. Have the
be done while the center is liquid ) . A pan cheese and chopped parsley ready. about 5 minutes. Set aside to cool.
with larger dimensions will cause the batter Have the goat cheese and chopped
to cook through too quickly. thyme ready.
Before dinner, turn on your oven, make
one of the fillings, and mix the batter while
the oven heats up. Thenjust toss a big green
Quick filling ideas

salad while the clafoutis is baking, add a
loaf of crusty bread if you like , and soon
after, a warming, casual dinner will be ready Try mixing one of these fill .:. Sauteed asparagus, broccoli,
to savor. ings (or other leftovers) with a or cauliflower.
cheese and chopped herb of •:. Wilted spinach, squeezed
your choosing: to remove excess water.
.:. Crumbled browned sausage .:. Chopped sun-dried toma
or bacon . toes, pine nuts, and olives .
•:. Chopped roasted vegetables . •:. Flaked poached salmon or
:
• . Diced smoked chicken. d iced boiled shrimp.
52 F I NE COOKING
H a m , M u s h rooms & Chives
FILLI N G :
1 ta blespoon vegetable o i l
1 ta blespoon unsalted butter
1f2 pound white button mushrooms, wiped
clean, stems trimmed, caps qua rtered
(or cut smaller if l a rge)
Kosher salt
6 ounces ham, sl iced Va inch thick and cut into
1 1f2x1f2-inch strips
Freshly ground black pepper The savory clafoutis (or crustless quiche) batter on
C H E ESE: p. 51 can be the key to unique nibbles for your next
2 ounces Gruyere, grated (to yield 1f2 cup)
cocktail party. Heat the oven to 450°F. O i l mini m uffin
HERB:
2 tablespoons sni pped chives tins and put 1/2 teaspoon grated cheese into each
Heat the oil and butter in a 1 O-i nch skillet over m uffin cup, plus a n interesting tidbit-half a n olive,
medium-high heat. When the butter has melted ,
add the mushrooms, sprinkle with salt, and three tiny cooked cocktail shrimp, 1f2 teaspoon crisp
cook, sti rring occasionally, u ntil softened and
crumbled bacon, sauteed m ushroom, or chopped
browned slightly, about 8 mi nutes. If the mush
rooms release a lot of water, increase the heat to jalapeno a re all good choices_ A pinch of chopped
evaporate it. Toss in the ham and cook, stirring
frequently, until it has browned a bit, 2 to 3 min fresh dill or basil adds flavor and color. Add 2 table
utes. Remove from the heat, season with a l ittle
spoons of the batter to each m uffin cup. B a ke until
salt and pepper, and set aside to cool . Have the
cheese and sn ipped chives ready. the clafoutis puff and start to turn golden, 1 5 to
1 8 minutes. Let cool for 20 minutes and then care
fully run a paring knife or offset spatula a round the
rim of each muffin cup. Carefully lift each clafoutis
out of its cup. The basic batter will yield a bout
48 pieces. If you like to work ahead, m i n i clafoutis
can be reheated in a 400°F oven for 5 m inutes.
Randall Price is an American chefwho lives in France . •
O C TOBER/NoV E M B E R 2 0 04 53
America's Best Home Cook
The Winning Recipes
Try these rec i pes and you ' l l know
why they made the finals i n Fine
Cooking's nationwide contest
BY AMY A L B E RT
W
hen Fine Cooking decided to hold a cook
ing contest, we settled on the same "market
basket" challenge we often give our authors.
Along with our co-sponsor, kitchenware re
tailer Sur La Table, we put out a call for home cooks
to create a recipe for a main dish from a limited num
ber of ingredients ( for contest rules, see p. 59). It's
the type of challenge that puts a cook's ingenuity and
skill to the test-perfect for Fine Cooking readers.
More than 600 responses poured in, and the Fine
Cooking editors and contributing editors read and
tested recipes for the first cut. We chose 15 semi
finalists to compete last spring at regional cookoffs
in Washington, DC, Chicago, and Seattle. At each
regional, two finalists were chosen. The six finalists
were flown to California for the national finals of our
first-ever search for America's Best Home Cook.
On a beautiful June morning in San Francisco, in
the kitchens of Sur La Table's downtown store, the
cooking began. Despite the pressure, each contes
tant was as calm and as poised as a seasoned pro in
a busy restaurant kitchen. Everyone did well-the
dishes were creative, delicious, and
A day of cooking, well executed-but only one cook
judging, and celebration, could be awarded the distinction of
clockwise from top
America's Best Home Cook 2004.
left: preparing for the
Kara Adanalian prepared her Rib
judges; kitchen bustle;
the judges; finalists at

Eye Steak Sandwiches ( at right)
the a wards party; Kara to raves, and took home the grand
Adanalian, grand-prize prize ( see www . finecooking.com
winner; finished dishes for details) . For more on the spon
presented to the judges;
sors and prizes, see pp. 88-89.
whisking a marinade.
54 FINE COOKING Photos: this page and contestants, AmyAlbert; all others, Scott Phillips.
T h e G ra n d - Pr i z e W i n n e r
I
Kara
Adanalian, Fairfax, California
Rib-Eye Steak Sandwiches
Serves four.
Pugl iese is an Italian country bread with a
very crisp crust and a soft interior; a good
su bstitute is ciabatta or another artisan
Italian loaf. Cambozola is like a cross be
tween Camembert and Gorgonzola-it has
a white rind and a creamy, blue-streaked
interior.
4 rib-eye steaks, each Y2 inch thick, trimmed
5 cloves ga rlic, m i nced; plus 2 cloves, sl iced
1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary
4 tablespoons u nsalted butter
2 shal lots, minced
16 medium crem i n i mushrooms (about
8 ounces), sl iced
% cup sweet M a rsala
1 med i u m onion, sliced
1 tablespoon extra -virg i n olive oil
4 to 6 ounces Cambozola cheese, rind
removed (or creamy Gorgonzola)
8 slices (Y2-i nch thick) pugliese-style bread,
lightly toasted
1 Y2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
Cut each steak in half crosswise. In a small

bowl, combine 4 cloves of the m inced garlic,
the rosemary, 1 1/2teaspoons salt, and pep
per to taste. Rub all over the steaks.
1
In a 2-inch skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of
the butter over med ium-high heat. Add the
shallots and remaining m inced garlic and
saute until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add the
mushrooms and Marsala; season with salt
and pepper. Cook, sti rring frequently, u ntil
the mushrooms cook through and the liquid
has evaporated, about 5 minutes. Transfer to
a bowl. Add 1 tablespoon butter to the pan.
Add the onions, season with salt and pep
This recipe is similar per, and saute over medium-high heat until
browned but still crunchy, 3 to 5 minutes.
to a dish Kara often Add the sliced garlic and cook until it begins
makes for family to brown, about 1 minute. Transfer to the
bowl with the mushrooms.
and friends. So Add the oil and remaining 1 tablespoon
when she got word butter to the pan over high heat. In two
batches, sear the steaks until well browned,
of the America's about 2 minutes per side for medium.
To serve, stir the Cambozola in a small
Best Home Cook
bowl until spreadable. Put two pieces of the
challenge , she set toasted bread on each of four plates; spread
l ightly with the mustard and some of the
to work adapting Cambozola. Set a piece of steak on top of
her recipe to fit each toast and drizzle with any accumu lated
juice. Return the mushroom mixture to the
the criteria. pan to reheat briefly. Top each steak with
some of the mushrooms and a dollop of
Cambozola and serve.
O C TOBE R / N oV E M B E R 2004 55
Kosher salt a n d freshly ground
black pepper
3 tablespoons unsa lted butter;
more for the souffle dishes
3 tablespoons all-purpose flou r
4 large egg yolks
1 cup (about 4 ounces) crumbled
goat cheese (prefera bly
Bucheron, rind trimmed)
6 large egg whites
Heat the oven to 400°F. Butter six

9- to 1 O-ounce souffle dishes. In a
small saucepan, heat the cream with Wendy
the rosemary sprig over medium
heat just until it boils. Remove from Leesburg,
the heat and let steep for 1 0 min
utes. Discard the rosemary sprig. Mediterranean
Heat the olive oil in a 1 0- to
1 2-inch skil let over medium heat. Beef Wraps with
Add the red peppers and shal lot.
Saute, sti rring occasionally, until the
Roasted Re eppe
vegetables begin to soften, about
Serves eight.
6 minutes. Add the mushrooms and
continue to saute, stirring frequently, V4 cup balsamic vinegar
until everything is tender, 2 to 3 min 1 tablespoon finely chopped
utes. Season with salt and pepper; fresh rosemary
remove from the heat. Distribute the
Nancy omitted 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
cooked vegetables evenly among 1 teaspoon granu lated sugar
the beef and the buttered dishes, covering the 2 shallots, minced
bottom of each dish. 1 clove garl ic, m i nced
created a light, Melt the butter in a medium Kosher salt and freshly ground
black pepper
fluffy souffle saucepan over medium-low heat.
When foamy, stir in the flour and % cup plus 1 tablespoon olive oil
with loft and cook over low heat, stirring con 2-pound flank steak
2 large red bell peppers
rich flavor. stantly, for 2 to 3 minutes. Whisk in
8 pockeUess 7- or 8-inch-dia meter
the heated cream. Add 112 teaspoon
pita flatbreads
salt (or to taste) and several grinds 1 medium red onion, thinly sl iced
of pepper. Increase the heat to 4% ounces feta, crumbled (1 cup)
medium and whisk until the mixture 1 cup fresh baby spinach
bubbles and thickens. Remove from
the heat. Whisk in the egg yolks one Start a medium-hot grill fire. In a
Nancy Wiese, Plano, Texas at a time until well blended. Stir in small bowl, combine the vinegar,
the cheese (the mixture needn't be rosemary, mustard, sugar, shallots,
Goat Cheese Souffle com pletely smooth).
With a mixer, beat the egg whites
garlic, and 1 teaspoon each salt and
pepper. Whisk in % cup of the oil
with Red Peppers & in a large bowl with a pinch of salt in a steady stream until emu lsified.
on high speed u ntil medium-stiff Put the flank steak and half of the
Chanterelles peaks form. Stir a small amount marinade (about 213 cup) in a plastic
of the beaten egg whites into the bag, seal, and refrigerate for 30 to
Serves six. cheese mixture to lighten it and 60 min utes. (Reserve the remaining
then gently fold the cheese mixture marinade for d rizzling on the pitas.)
Bucheron is an aged goat cheese into the remaining egg wh ites with Drizzle the peppers with the re
with a wh ite rind. If you can't find it, a rubber spatula (it's fine to leave a main ing 1 tablespoon oil and grill
use a fresh, soft goat cheese. few clumps of egg wh ite) . Divide the until blackened all over, 1 0 to 1 5
mixture evenly among the buttered minutes. Put the peppers in a small
1 V4 cups heavy cream
1 sma l l sprig fresh rosemary; more
dishes, covering the vegetables. bowl, cover immediately with plastic
chopped rosemary for garnish
Lower the oven temperature to wrap, and let steam and cool.
2 tablespoons extra-virgin ol ive oil 375°F. Put the souffles on a rimmed Remove the steak from the
2 medium red bell peppers, cored, baking sheet and bake until golden marinade and pat dry. Sprinkle with
seeded, and finely chopped and just slightly wobbly in the 2 teaspoons each salt and pep
1 medium shal lot, finely chopped center, about 20 minutes. Sprinkle per. Grill the steak, 6 to 7 m inutes
1 cup finely chopped fresh cha nter the souffles with a bit of chopped on each side for medium rare (a
elle mushrooms (about 2 ounces) rosemary and serve immed iately. thermometer inserted in the thick-
56 FINE COOKING
Janice Elder, Charlotte, North Carolina
Stuffed Filet Mignon with

Mushroom-Gorgonzola Grits
Serves four.
V2 pound Gorgonzola, crumbled

(about 2 cups)
V4 cup chopped roasted red bell
peppers (see From Our Test
Kitchen, p. 80); more for garn ish
1 tablespoon chopped fresh
rosemary
4 filet mignons (6 ou nces each)
6 thin slices prosciutto
3 tablespoons vegeta ble oil
2 cloves garl ic, mi nced
2 large shal lots, finely chopped
3 cups assorted sliced mushrooms
(such as shi itake, crem ini, and
porta bella)
2 cans (14 ounces each) low-salt
chicken broth
1 cup q u ick grits (not i nstant)
Kosher salt and freshly grou nd ''I'm from the
black pepper
South, so I made
Fresh rosemary sprigs for garn ish
(optional) grits," Janice
Mix half of the Gorgonzola with the told the judges.
roasted red peppers and chopped
rosemary, mixing wel l. Use a small
"But in case you
kn ife to cut a slit about 2 inches don't like grits,"
"I entertain a lot and long into the side of each filet and
cut about 2 inches in to create a she quipped,
invite way more
pocket. Stand the fi lets on their "I've garnished
people than can fit uncut edges and open the pockets.
Using a small spoon, fill each pocket them with a
at my dining table," with a quarter of the Gorgonzola
filet mignon."
says Wendy. "This mixture. Wrap one slice of the pro
sciutto around the edge of each filet
dish works well to seal the pocket, securing with a
buffet-style." wooden pick if necessary. Cover Season the filets with salt and
and set aside at room temperature. pepper. Heat the remaining 1 table
Cut the remaining 2 slices of the spoon oil in a heavy 1 0- to 1 2-inch
est part of the steak should register prosci utto crosswise into 1i4-inch skillet (cast iron works well) over high
1 350 to 1 40°F) . Remove from the strips. Heat 2 tablespoons of the heat. When the oil is hot, cook the
oil in 3- to 4-q uart saucepan over filets until rare (about 3 minutes per
grill, cover with foil, and let rest for
medium-high heat. Saute the pro side) or medium rare (about 4 min
1 5 minutes.
sciutto, stirri ng occasionally, until
Meanwh ile, core, seed, and peel utes per side) or to the doneness you
crisp and golden, about 3 min utes.
the cooled peppers and sl ice them prefer. While the filets are cooking,
Transfer it with a slotted spoon to a
into thin strips. Strain the reserved add the remaining Gorgonzola to
plate li ned with paper towels.
marinade through a fine sieve. Warm the grits; stir until well blended. If the
Add the garlic and shallots
the pitas on the grill, flipping once grits seem too thick, thin them with a
to the saucepan and cook until
after 2 min utes, about 4 mi nutes softened, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the little water. Season to taste.
total. Transfer to a plate and cover mushrooms and cook, stirring occa To serve, divide the g rits among
with foil to keep warm. sionally, until tender and beginning four shallow soup bowls. Top
To assemble, sl ice the steak to brown, 8 to 1 0 minutes. Add the each with a stuffed filet (remove
thinly on an angle across the grain. chicken broth and grits, stirring wel l. the wooden picks, if used) and
Put a few slices of beef and some Bring to a boil and then reduce the sprinkle the grits with some of the
of the roasted red peppers, red heat to low. Sim mer, covered, stir crisped prosciutto. Garnish with
onion, spinach, and feta on each ring frequently, until the g rits begin the rosemary sprigs and roasted
pita. Drizzle with 1 tablespoon of to thicken, about 5 min utes. Keep red peppers, if you like, and serve
the strained marinade and fold. warm over low heat. immediately.
O C T O B E R/ N oV E M B E R 2004 57
Kate Lynn,
Savory Mediterranean Baklava ,
Serves eight.
Look for Athens brand phyllo twin
packs (two 8-ounce packs in one
box). The phyllo sheets are the per
fect size for this dish. The compo
nents can be made a day ahead and
refrigerated. Wait to assemble the
baklava until you're ready to bake it.
FOR THE M U S H ROOM LAYER:
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons finely minced shal lot
Y2 cup finely diced sweet onion
4 cups roughly chopped assorted
fresh mushrooms (chanterelle,
oyster, porta bel la, cremi n i,
hedgehog, shi ita ke, or white
button; about 1 pound)
This recipe, rosemary Make the m u s h room layer: Melt To assemble: Unroll the phyllo;
1f2cup low-salt vegeta ble or chicken the butter in a large saute pan over keep it covered with plastic wrap
Kate laughingly broth medium heat. Add the shallot and and a damp cloth. Liberally brush
admits, suits her % cup dry white wine (optional) onion ; cook until softened, 3 to the bottom of a 9x1 3-inch baking
Kosher salt and freshly ground 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms, d ish with some of the melted butter.
extended family's black pepper rosemary, broth, and wine if using ; Lay a sheet of phyllo in the dish and,
season with salt and pepper to taste.
dietary needs, FOR TH E RED PEPPER LAYER: starting from the edges, brush lightly
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Cook until the mushrooms are tender
with butter. Repeat with seven more
including vege 3 large red bell peppers, cut into and most of the liquid has evapo
sheets, brushing each with butter.
%-inch d i ce (about 3 cups) rated, 8 to 1 0 minutes. Let cool.
tarian and kosher. 1 clove ga rlic, finely minced
With a rubber spatula, spread the
Make the red p e p p e r layer: Heat mushrooms evenly over the phyllo.
But it's a hit with 1 cup finely d i ced red onion (about
the oil in a large saute pan over
1f2 medium red onion) Repeat the layering and buttering
meat-eaters, too. 1 tablespoon chopped fresh medium-high heat. Add the peppers, with eight more sheets of phyllo.
rosemary garlic, onion, and rosemary. Season Spread the goat cheese evenly over
Kosher salt and freshly ground with salt and pepper to taste. Cook, the phyllo. Repeat the layering and
black pepper stirring often, until the peppers and buttering with eight more sheets
onions are well softened, 7 to 1 0 min
FOR TH E G OAT CHEESE LAYER: of phyllo. Spread the red peppers
utes. Don't let them brown ; add more
20 to 22 ounces good -qual ity goat evenly over the phyllo. Top with eight
(I
cheese l i ke Laura Chenel)
oil if the pan is dry. Let cool.
more phyllo sheets, buttering as you
2 large eggs M a ke the g oat cheese layer: In a go. Butter the top two sheets as
2 ta blespoons heavy cream
food processor or with an electric evenly as possible.
1 tablespoon finely minced
mixer, blend the goat cheese, eggs, With a sharp knife, cut the bak
rosemary
cream, rosemary, pepper, and salt lava lengthwise into thirds, cutting
1 teaspoon freshly ground
black pepper
until smooth. Set aside. all the way to the bottom of the pan,
1f2teaspoon kosher salt Make the balsamic-rosemary holding the top layers of phyllo in
syru p :In a medium saucepan, bring place with your fingers. Next, cut
FOR TH E BALSAMIC
ROSEMARY SYR U P: the vinegar and rosemary to a boil. d iagonally from one corner to an
2 cups balsamic vinega r Reduce the heat to a simmer and other. Continue making d iagonal
2- to 3-i nch-long sprig fresh cook until reduced to a thin syrupy cuts about 2 inches apart to create
rosemary; more sprigs for garnish consistency, about 1 5 minutes. 2x3-inch diamonds. Bake until deep
Watch closely during the last few golden brown, 40 to 5 0 minutes. Let
1 pound 9x1 4-inch frozen phyllo
minutes of cooking. (The reduc- rest for at least 1 5 to 20 minutes.
dough, thawed in the refrigerator
overnight
tion goes fast at the end and if you
overreduce it, it may be too thick To s e rve: Drizzle a l ittle of the syrup
Y2 pound u nsalted butter, melted;
more as needed or even burn. It will th icken more on each plate. Arrange one or two
as it cools.) You should have about pieces of the baklava on each plate,
Position a rack in the center of the 1/2 cup syrup. Remove from the heat; drizzle with a bit more syrup, and
oven and heat the oven to 375°F. d iscard the rosemary. garnish with a rosemary sprig.
58 FINE COOKING
Karen Tedesco, St. Louis, Missouri
Warm Steak Salad with Rosemary Flatbread

Serves six. M a ke the d ressi n g : Heat the oven
to 400°F. Put the shallots and garlic
2 New York strip steaks, 1 % i n ches in a small baking dish; drizzle with
thick (about 1 pound each),
1 teaspoon of the oil. Roast u ntil
trimmed
soft and fragrant, 20 to 25 minutes.
1 teaspoon extra-virg i n olive oil
Let cool slightly and peel. Put the
1 tablespoon coarsely ground
black pepper
shallots, garlic, red peppers, mus
1 % teaspoons kosher salt tard, vinegars, salt, and several
grinds of pepper in a food proces
FOR THE FLATB READ: sor. Process for 1 0 seconds. With
1 3112 ounces (3 cups) all-purpose the machine on, add the remaining
flour; more for kneading
2 teaspoons kosher salt
114cup oil in a slow, steady stream
until the mixture is thick and smooth.
rosemary Cook the flatbre a d s : Heat a 1 0- to
1 teaspoon extra -virgin olive oil 1 2-inch cast-iron or other heavy ski l
FOR THE DRESS I N G : let over medium heat until a d rop of
4 whole shal lots, u n peeled water evaporates on contact. Mean
4 whole cloves ga rlic, u n peeled while, on a lightly flou red surface, "I love the sweet
1f4cup plus 1 teaspoon extra -virgin divide the flatbread dough into six
smokiness of
olive oil pieces. Roll one piece into an 8-inch
3 red bell peppers, roasted, round and put the round in the skil roasted red
skinned, a n d seeded (see From let. Cook until golden-brown spots
Our Test Kitchen, p. 80)
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
appear on the bottom and the bread
"
peppers, says
1 tablespoon sherry vinegar
1
begins to puff, to 2 minutes. Fl ip
Karen. "I decided
the bread, cook until golden-brown
2 teaspoons red-wine vinegar
spots appear on the second side, to combine them
and transfer to a plate. Repeat with
Freshly g round black pepper
remaining dough. Cover the flat
with shallots,
FO R TH E SALAD: breads with a towel to keep warm. which I roasted
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic M a ke the s a l a d : Increase the heat as well, for added
3% cups cooked chickpeas (or to medium-high and let the skillet
two 1 5-ounce cans, rinsed and 1
heat for minute. Cook the steaks savory richness."
drai ned) to medium rare (about 5 minutes
2 cups lightly packed baby arugula per side) or to the doneness you
(about 2 ounces) prefer. Remove the skillet from the
4 to 5 ounces coarsely crumbled
heat, transfer the steaks to a cutting
ricotta salata (1 cup)
board, and let rest for 5 to 1 0 min
Rub the steaks on both sides with utes. Slice about 1fs inch thick. C O N TEST G U I D E LI N ES
the oil, pepper, and salt. Cover While the steaks rest, let the Market basket i n g re d i e nts
and let sit at room temperature for skillet cool for 2 to 3 minutes. Set were b o n e l ess beef, fresh o r
30 minutes or in the refrigerator for the skillet over medium-low heat
d ri e d m us h ro o m s , r e d b e l l
up to 4 hours. ( Remove the steaks and add 2 tablespoons oil. Add the
chopped garlic and cook, stirring p e p p ers, shal lots, a n d fresh
from the refrigerator 30 minutes be
fore cooking. ) frequently, until softened ; don't let ros e m a ry. C o ntestants were
it brown. Remove the pan from the al lowed to o m i t one m arket
M a ke the flatbread d o u g h : In a heat; add the chickpeas, arugula,
large bowl, mix the flour, salt, and basket i n g red i e nt . T h ey c o u l d
and ricotta salata and toss gently.
rosemary. Stir in 1 114 cups water u s e t h ree a d d i t i o n a l w i l d c ard
and the oil until the dough comes To serve: Put a flatbread on each i n g re d i e nt s , a n d they c o u l d
together. Turn onto a lightly floured plate, spoon on a generous 112
cup a l s o use any n u m be r of
surface; knead until smooth and re of the chickpea mixture, and drizzle
i n g re d i e nt s from a stand ard ,
sil ient, about 5 minutes, dusting the with about 2 tablespoons of the
surface lightly with flour as needed. dressing. Arrange the sliced steak l i m ited coo k's pantry.
Put the dough in an oiled bowl, on the salad. Fold the flatbread over
cover with plastic, and let rest at to eat like a sandwich or use a fork
AmyAlbert is Fine Cooking's
room temperature for 30 minutes or and knife. Pass the extra dressing at
in the refrigerator for up to 2 hours. the table. senior editor. •
O C T O B E R / N oV E M B E R 2 0 0 4 59
BY N A N C I E M c D E R M OTT fibrous, intensely flavored rhizome in several dif
ferent forms : fresh, frozen (whole or sliced ) , or
I
fell in love with chicken coconut soup soon after sliced and dried into humble-looking woody chips.
I arrived in Thailand as a Peace Corps volunteer. All three forms deliver galangal's intense, citrusy
Its flavors were unfamiliar yet inviting, as if all tang. Ground dried galangal, however, does not,
my early impressions of Thailand had been sim so please don't use it in this soup. If you can't find
mered up and ladled into a bowl . galangal, use its cousin, fresh ginger. The flavor will
Though I spent my time in Thailand eating Thai be different, but still delicious . And if you can't
food rather than learning to cook it, when I returned find lemongrass or lime leaves, my ben lai-"Don't
home to North Carolina, I was able to make a deli worry!" They add magic, but even without them ,
cious pot of tome kha gai (chicken coconut soup) you'll still have a delicious soup. That's how I made
on my velY first try with ingredients I tracked down it the first ten years after returning from Thailand,
at a small Korean market. Nowadays, you can find because fresh Thai herbs were difficult to find dur
Thai ingredients like coconut milk, fish sauce, fresh ing that time .
lemongrass, and jasmine rice at supermarkets; and Making the soup is a snap. There are no new tech
Asian markets often carry fresh or frozen lime leaves niques to master. It's a simple matter of prepping Galangal, a relative of
and galangal; for sources, see p. 90. the ingredients, boiling, stirring, and simmering. ginger, gives this soup
The defining flavor of this soup is galangal, known I usually serve the soup Thai style, leaving the a bright, citrusy flavor.
in Thai as kha. For this recipe , you can use this lemongrass, galangal, and lime leaves floating in the

Chicken Coconut Soup Fo l low these 4 easy steps
(Tome Kha Ga O
Yields 4% to 5 cups; serves four as a
starter or two as a light meal.
This soup is a treasure: a qu intessen

tially Thai dish that you can make at
home simply, quickly, and with great
success.
2 sta l ks fresh lemongrass 1 Trim away and discard the

2 tablespoons fresh lime j u ice root end and the top 3 inches
2 tablespoons fish sauce (nam pia) of each stalk of lemongrass,
2 sca l lions (white and green pa rts), along with any brittle leaves.
trimmed and very thinly sliced Pound each stalk lightly with
crosswise the spine of a cleaver or an
6 fresh or frozen wild l i me leaves (also unopened can. Cut each stalk
known as kaffir lime leaves; see crosswise into 2-inch lengths
p. 24), torn or cut into quarters
and set aside.
1 0 to 1 2 thin sl ices galangal, fresh,
frozen, or dried (or 1 0 to 1 2 thin sl ices
fresh u n peeled g i nger)
8 to 10 fresh hot red and green Tha i
ch iles, stemmed a nd lightly pressed
with the side of a kn ife (or 3 or
4 serra nos, thinly sl iced) for garnish
(optional)
2 tablespoons coarsely chopped
fresh cila ntro
2 In a large serving bowl, combine
the lime ju ice, fish sauce, scall ions, and
1 boneless chicken breast half (about
6 ounces), cut into bite-size ch u n ks or
half of the wild lime leaves. Set the bowl
sl iced a cross the grain into strips by the stove, along with small dishes
V4 pound white mushrooms, cleaned, containing the galangal, lemongrass,
stems trimmed, and thinly sl iced to and remaining lime leaves; the chi les (if
yield 1 cup using), the chopped cilantro; and the
1 4-ou nce ca n unsweetened coconut sliced chicken and mushrooms.
milk (shake the can before open ing it)
1 4-ou nce can low-salt chicken broth or
1 % cups water
To make the soup, follow the 3 In a medium saucepan,

directions starting above right. combine the coconut milk and
broth. Bring to a gentle boil over
medium-high heat. Stir in the
galangal, lemongrass, and l ime
broth. But if you're having guests and don't want
leaves. Add the chicken and
to ask them to eat around those items, you can re mushrooms. Return to a gentle
move them before serving the soup. Just scoop the boi l , reduce the heat, and simmer
solid ingredients into a large wire strainer held over for 1 0 minutes to infuse the
the soup pot, fish out the galangal and lemongrass, flavors and cook the chicken.
and then return the chicken and mushrooms to
the broth.
Many of my friends think that all Thai dishes are
hot, but that isn't true. This soup, for example, isn't
4 Remove the pan
from the heat, pour
spicy-hot, though it would be served along with an
the hot soup over the
array of spicier dishes and jasmine rice . To oblige seasonings in the
my chilehead friends, I put a dish of tiny hot Thai serving bowl, and stir
chiles, stemmed and lightly pressed with the side of well. Sprinkle with the
a knife, on the table. When added whole to the fin chopped ci lantro and
ished soup, they add a welcome burst of color and a serve hot. Pass around
blast of heat, too. the chiles for those who
want them.
Nancie McDermott, a cooking instructor, is the author ofQuick & Easy Thai: 70 Everyday Recipes . •
ith
A sweet, buttery crunch gives
a lift to four comforting classics
BY W E N DY K A L E N
I
fyou like apple desserts-and A crumb topping i s a versa
who doesn't?-you'li love the tile creature. Sometimes I make
crisp, pie , cake, and bars on a little extra and bake it sepa
these pages. They've got all rately on a sheet pan. It keeps its
the comforting, satisfying crunch for a few weeks in an air
flavors that make these types of tight container (or longer in the
desserts such favorites, plus one freezer) , and it's fun to sprinkle
thing more: They all feature easy on ice-cream sundaes, crush and
crumb toppings, which are the press into the sides of a frosted
crowning touch for j ust about cake, or add to your favorite
anything appley. The tenderness granola mix. You can also mix it
of cooked apples practically cries into homemade applesauce and
out for the contrast of a crisp add a dollop of creme frakhe for
crunchy top. And flavorwise, a quick apple compote. Or just
too, toppings made with brown munch on it as a snack.
sugar and butter ( and perhaps A quick note about apples: I
spiked with cinnamon or nuts) love all kinds and often experi
marry beautifully with apples. ment with different varieties.
B ut some apples break down
Toppings are flexible faster than others when they're
The crumb toppings for the fol cooked ( s e e From Our Test
lowing desserts are all slightly Kitchen, p . 78), so be aware that
different from one another, but cooking times can vary. I like the
they have one very important consistency of results that I get
thing in common: They're a cinch when baking with B raeburns,
to make. For three of them, you and I like the way they get ten
don't even need a mixer to com der without falling apart. Also,
bine the ingredients, just a bowl apples behave differently at dif
and your fingers . Depending ferent times of year due to mois
on the proportions of the three ture loss, so you might find that
main ingredients-flour, butter, desserts like crisps and pies may
and sugar-and on how well you end up slightly more or less juicy
blend them, the topping might depending on the season.
be crunchier, coarser, or sandier
( see the sidebar at far right) .

easy crumb toppings
Experiment with cru m b toppi ngs
One o f the great things about Basic recipe:
crumb toppings is that they're 5% ounces ( 1 V4 cups)
flexible and forgiving. By all-purpose flour
tweaking the proportions, you V4 pound ( Y2 cup) unsalted
can vary the texture and size
butter
of the crumb. And if you tend
Y2 cup firmly packed light
toward imprecision when mea
brown sugar
2 tablespoons granulated
suring, crumb toppings are for sugar
you: The result might be a little V4 teaspoon table salt
less crisp or less crumbly than
intended, but it will still be delicious. Above are my ideal propor
tions for a basic crum b topping (I use it in the crisp on p. 64), and
below are tips to modify it to achieve a different texture.
Crunchier Stnoother
Adding confectioners' sugar To encourage the topping to
in addition to the other sugars spread together rather than
provides more crunch and also remain pebbly and separate,
causes the mixture to spread try any of the following: add
a bit for a more classic coffee more butter, use melted butter,
cake look. Melting the butter or bake at a higher tempera
produces a similar effect. ture. All of these changes lead
I ncreasing the brown sugar to a crum b topping that tends
adds crunch and also delivers more to one unified layer than
a deeper, caramelized flavor. lots of individual clumps.
Coarser Sandier
For larger lumps, the simplest Three changes can help pro
approach is to blend the duce a finer, sandier texture:
mixture very thoroughly; the don't blend the mixture too
more you work it between thoroughly, use more flour,
your fingers, the more it will or reverse the proportions of
clump together into larger granulated sugar to brown
pieces. You can also use a sugar. If you replace all of the
little less flour or boost the brown sugar with g ranulated
amount of brown sugar. sugar, the topping will be
extra tender, too.
O C T O B E R/ NoVE M B E R 2 0 0 4 63
Peca n Top p i n g
Yields enough for the Apple
Cranberry Crisp below.
5% ounces (1 % cups)
a l l-purpose flour
Y2 cup firmly packed
light brown sugar
2 tablespoons gra n u l ated
sugar
V2 teaspoon g round
cinnamon
% teaspoon table salt
% pound (V2 cup) cold
unsalted butter, cut into
Y2-inch pieces
3 ounces (% cup) pecans,
coarsely chopped
Combine the flour, brown

sugar, granu lated sugar, cin
namon, and salt in a medium
bowl. Rub in the butter with
your fingertips u ntil it's well
Apple Cra n berry Crisp blended and the m ixture is
clumpy but still a bit crumbly
Serves six to eight.
(it should hold together if you
3 pounds apples (4 to 5 medium-large), such pinch it) . M ix in the pecans.
Refrigerate u ntil ready to use.
Using a combination of as Braeburn, Gala, Rome, or Honeycrisp
V2 teaspoon ground ci nnamon
V2 pound (2% cups) fresh cran berries
apple varieties delivers 1 teaspoon finely g rated orange zest
an unexpected range
1 tablespoon unsa lted butter
a small pan. Heat in the microwave or over
3 tablespoons fresh orange j u ice
Pinch table salt
med ium-low heat until the butter melts, about
of textures and tart 1 cup granu lated sugar 1 min ute. Swirl to blend and pour the m ix
Pecan Topping (recipe above right) ture over the apples. Toss to coat. Add the
sweet flavors. sugar and toss to coat again. Pour the apple
Heat the oven to 375°F. Butter the sides only mixture into the prepared pan and spread it
of a g-inch-square baking pan. evenly. Sprinkle the topping evenly on top of
Peel, quarter, and core the apples. Cut the apples.
each apple quarter crosswise into %-inch Line a heavy-duty rim med baking sheet
thick slices. Put them in a large bowl, sprinkle with foil. Set the pan on the sheet and bake
on the cinnamon, and toss until evenly until the juices are bubbling on the sides, the
coated. Combine the cranberries and orange top is golden brown, crisp, and hard, and the
zest in a food processor and pulse until apples in the center are tender when pierced
the cranberries are finely chopped, scrap- with a fork, 60 to 70 minutes (rotate the pan
ing down the sides with a rubber spatula for even brown ing, if necessary). If the top
as needed. starts to get too brown after 45 minutes,
Add the cranberries to the apples and cover it loosely with aluminum foil. Let cool
toss to combine. Put the butter, orange juice, on a rack for at least 30 minutes to let the
and salt in a small microwaveable dish or juices thicken. Serve warm.
64 FINE COOKING
The size of the crumb
G i n g e r Topping
is a function of how
Yields enough for the Ginger
Apple Crumb Pie below. thoroughly you mix
4% ounces (1 cup)
a l l -pu rpose flour the m ore you work it,
% cup granu lated sugar
2 tablespoons firmly packed the clumpier it gets.
l ight brown sugar
1 V2 teaspoons ground g i nger
Va teaspoon table salt
% pound (% cup) cold
u nsalted butter, cut into
8 pieces
In a medium bowl, combine

Ginger Apple Cru m b Pie the flour, sugar, brown sugar,
Serves eight to twelve. ground ginger, and salt.
Whisk to blend. Add the
FOR TH E C R UST:
5% ounces ( 1 % cups) al l-pu rpose flou r
butter and work it in well with
% teaspoon table salt your fingers until the m ix-
1 V2 ounces (3 tablespoons) cold vegeta ble ture holds together in small
shortening, cut into %-inch dice clumps and there are very few
Cutting cold butter into pieces
1 % ounces (3 tablespoons) cold unsa lted fine grains left in the bowl.
butter, cut into V2- i nch dice Refrigerate until ready to use. makes it easier to blend in.
2 V2 to 3V2 ta blespoons very cold water
FOR TH E FI LLI N G :
3 pounds Braeburn or G a l a apples (about
6 med i u m) peeled, cored, and cut into
%-inch-thick slices
2 teaspoons finely g rated fresh g i nger
( 1 1/4 inches deep) u pside down over the cen
(I use a M icroplane)
ter of dough. Slip your hand under the plastic
V2 cup granu lated sugar
and turn the pie plate right side up. Slip the
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 ounce (2 tablespoons) unsalted butter,
dough into the pan to fit snugly and carefully
cut into very small pieces remove the plastic. Trim the dough overhang
to about 1f4 inch, fold it under to create a
G i nger Topping (recipe above right) thicker edge, and flute the edge. Cover
loosely with plastic and refrigerate for at least
M a ke the crust: In a stand m ixer bowl (or a 30 min utes or until ready to use. Rub the mixture between your
large m ixing bowl), whisk the flour and salt Position an oven rack in the lower third of fingertips until it comes together
to blend. Add the shortening and butter. the oven and heat the oven to 425°F. in small clumps.
Starting on low speed and then shifting to
medium, beat with the paddle attachment (or M a ke the fil l i n g : In a large bowl, toss the
cut in by hand) until the largest pieces of fat apples with the ginger, distributing the ginger
are about the size of peas, 1 to 2 minutes. as evenly as possible. Add the sugar and
With the m ixer running on low (or mixing by flour and toss to coat evenly.
hand), sprinkle on 2 1/2 tablespoons of the Scrape the apple mixture into the shell
water and blend u ntil the dough just comes and mound it slightly in the center. Dot with
together into clumps; if the dough is too dry the butter. Top with the crumb topping, keep
to do this, add the remaining water 1/2 table ing it as clumpy (not sandy) as you can. Try to
spoon at a time. With your hands, shape the cover all the apples. If any crumbs roll off the
dough into a 4-inch wide disk. Wrap i n plas pie, gather them up and reapply.
tic and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes. Put the pie on a foil-lined baking sheet.
Roll out the dough between two sheets Bake for 20 minutes and then reduce the
of plastic wrap. (If the dough was chil led for heat to 375°F. Bake until the apples are ten
more than 30 minutes, you may need to let der (a skewer inserted into the center of the As you cover the pie, keep the
it warm up at room temperature to become pie will meet slight resistance) and the juices topping as clumpy as possible for
pliable.) Occasionally loosen and reapply are bubbling around the edges, another the most satisfying texture.
the wrap and continue rolling until you have 30 to 35 m inutes; if the top starts to brown
an 1 1 - to 1 2-inch round that's about 1Jeinch too qu ickly after about 20 minutes, cover the
thick. Remove the top sheet of plastic. Turn pie lightly with foil. Let cool on a rack for 3 to
a standard 9-inch metal or glass pie plate 4 hours to let the ju ices set.
O CTOBER/NoV E M B E R 2 0 0 4 65
Wa l n ut Topping
Yields enough for the Moist
Apple - Walnut Cake below.
% pound (Y2 cup) u nsalted

butter
Y2 cup firmly packed light
brown sugar
Y2 cup granu lated sugar
1 % teaspoons ground
cinnamon
4Y2 ounces (1 cup) a l l
pu rpose flou r
% cup confectioners' sugar
4 ounces (1 cup) whole
waln uts, coarsely chopped
Melt the butter in a medium

bowl in the microwave (or in a
skillet and pour into a medium
bowl). Add the brown sugar,
gran ulated sugar, and the cin
namon and stir until blended.
Add the flour, confectioners'
sugar, and the walnuts, mixing
with your fingers until it's well
combined ; the mixture should
be crumbly but also clump to
gether. Refrigerate u ntil ready
to use.
Moist Apple-Wa l n ut Cake

Serves sixteen.
9 ou nces (2 cups) all-pu rpose flour Add the eggs, one at a time, beating until
1 teaspoon baking powder combined and scraping the bowl as needed.
1 teaspoon baking soda Add about one-third of the flour mixture,
Applesauce makes this % teaspoon ground ci nnamon m ixing on medium low until combined. Add
Y2 teaspoon table salt the applesauce, mixing on medium low
cake wonderfully m oist. 3 ounces (6 tablespoons) u nsalted butter, until incorporated and scraping the bowl
softened at room temperature
as needed. M ix in another third of the flour
Homemade is best, but 1 % cups granu lated sugar
mixture, then the sour cream, and then the
2 large eggs, at room temperature
remaining flour mixture, mixing after each
% cup smooth homemade or store-bought
store-bought is good, too. addition until just incorporated. Don't over
applesauce
1 cup sour cream mix. Scrape the batter into the prepared pan
Wa lnut Topping (recipe above right) and spread it evenly.
Bake until the edges of the cake are
Heat the oven to 35 0°F. Butter the bottom slightly set and the rest is very jiggly, about
and sides of a 9x1 3-inch baking pan. Line the 1 5 minutes. Scatter the walnut topping
bottom of the pan with parchment and butter evenly over the cake and bake until the
the parchment. cru mbs are golden brown, the center of the
In a med ium bowl , whisk the flour, baking cake springs back when lightly touched, and
powder, baking soda, cinnamon, and salt a toothpick inserted in the center has a few
to blend. moist crumbs sticking to it, 30 to 35 minutes;
Combine the butter and sugar in a large check the cake early and if the crumbs are
bowl . Beat with an electric mixer on medium golden but the cake isn't fully baked, cover
speed until combi ned (but not fluffy), scrap loosely with foil. Let cool on a rack for at
ing the bowl as needed, about 30 seconds. least 20 minutes. Serve warm.
66 FINE COOKING
Almond Cheesecake
Apple Bars
Yields sixteen 2 112-inch squares.
FOR THE CRUST AN D TOPPI N G :

6Vs ounces (1 % cups plus 2 tablespoons)
a l l -pu rpose flour
% teaspoon table salt
2 ounces (% cup) unsa lted butter, well
softened
2 ounces (% cup) cream cheese, well
softened
% teaspoon pure almond extract
% cup plus 2 tablespoons granu lated sugar
% cup plus 2 tablespoons firmly packed
light brown sugar
3 ounces (% cup) sl ivered a l monds,
coarsely chopped
FO R TH E FILLI N G :
4 ounces (V2 cup) cream cheese, softened
V2 cup granu lated sugar
1 large egg, at room temperature
2 teaspoons freshly grated lemon zest
1 tablespoon fresh lemon ju ice
Pinch table salt
1 pound (about 2 medium) Braeburn, Gala,
or Rome apples, peeled, cored and cut
into Vs-i nch-thick slices (to yield 2V2 cups)
Heat the oven to 35 0°F. Cut a piece of

parchment into a 9x1 4-inch rectangle. Line a
9-inch-square baking pan with the parchment
(it will extend beyond the pan). Butter the
parchment and the unlined sides of the pan. and then squeeze the dough together into
one clump.
Set aside
M a ke the crust a n d to p p i n g :
2 tablespoons of the flour in a small dish. Make the fi l l i n g : In a large m ixing bowl, beat Cream cheese and lemon
Whisk together the remaining 1 114 cups flour the cream cheese with an electric mixer on
and the salt in a small bow!. In a large mixing medium speed until smooth. Add the sugar juice g ive these bars that
bowl, beat the butter with an electric mixer and beat on medium until combined, scrap
on medium speed until smooth. Add the ing the bowl as needed. Add the egg and classic cheesecake tang
cream cheese and almond extract and beat beat until combined, scraping the bowl as
on medium until smooth, scraping the bowl needed. Beat in the lemon zest, lemon ju ice, and texture.
as needed, about 1 minute. Add 114 cup each and salt.
of the granu lated and brown sugars and beat Spread the apple slices evenly on the
on medium speed until blended, scraping as bottom crust and pour the cream cheese fill
needed. Add the flour-salt mixture and 13 cup ing on top, gently spreading it with a rubber
of the almonds and beat on medium low just spatula to cover the apples. Crumble the
until the flour is absorbed and the mixture remaining dough on top. The pieces can be
starts to come together in clumps. fairly large, about the size of a cherry, and
Set aside 213cup of the dough in another the topping needn't completely cover the
bowl and press the remaining dough into the filling. Spri n kle with the remaining almonds.
prepared pan in a thin but even layer. Prick Bake until the topping and almonds are l ight Wendy Kalen is a food writer,
it all over with a fork. Bake until the crust is golden brown, 45 to 5 0 minutes. Let the bars food stylist, and recipe developer.
golden, especially around the edges, 1 8 to cool in the pan until warm, about 30 minutes. She lives in Maplewood,
20 minutes. Remove from the oven but keep Remove from the pan using the parchment
New Jersey. •
the oven on. sling and set on a wire rack to cool com
While the crust bakes, add the 2 table pletely. Transfer the bars, still on the parch
spoons reserved flour and the remaining ment, to a cutting board. Slide a long metal
2 tablespoons each of the g ranulated and spatula between the bars and parchment to
brown sugars to the reserved dough. Mix separate them, and then slide the parchment
with your fingertips until well combined out. Cut into 1 6 bars.
O C TOBE R / N o V E M B E R 2 0 0 4 67
Getting
S ho ppi n g for a n ew ran g e ?
hat You
Here are ou r t o p p icks i n
30- i n ch m odels
W
ith so many models and options
mpl
from which to choose, buying a
. si e,
range can seem a bit daunting.
Although less expensive than a b ig
ticket item like , say, a new car, buying
a range is just as exciting-or maybe
nIce prIce
even more for those of us who love to Bosch all-gas or
dual-fuel range
cook. But there's a lot to think about
Model: HG or H D (complete model
before you make a decision and plunk
numbers depend on color and options)
down the dough: how you cook, what Burners: 400 to 1 5,000 Btu
you cook, how your kitchen is laid out, Price range: $1 , 1 00 to $1 ,900
and what you want to spend. You want
This range is a new offering for Bosch,
to be sure you make the right choice. a company known for dishwashers
After a lot of footwork (see How and ovens. Its new freestanding range
We Tested, at far right ) , we've come up caught our attention because of its
simple, sleek design, as well as for all the
with some recommendations to help
features it offers at a reasonable price.
you decide. Here, in ascending order
of price, are the seven 30-inch ranges What's to love:
.:. Simple, streamlined control-panel
we 'd most love to own. The models
design.
that follow made the cut because of .:. Generously sized oven cavity.
the total package they offer: top per .:. Electric cooktop models have a
formance, smart features, good value, removable magnetic control knob for
and good looks. Some are loaded with easy cleaning. It's designed for extra
safety, too: Burners automatically go
nifty details at a nice price. Others have
off as soon as you remove the knob.
unique fe atures that make cooking
.:. Warming drawer.
more convenient or more fun . Others
are j ust plain powerful and impres Shortcomings:
.:. Control panel is so streamlined that
sively built. Depending on what you're
menu choices aren't immediately evi
after, there's a good bet in a range of dent and take a little getting used to.
prices. And although we've focused .:. Dual-fuel, true convection, expandable
on 30-inch ranges (the standard size oven racks, and stainless finish aren't
if you're replacing one ) , most models standard and will beef up the price.
are also available in 36-, 48-, and even

60-inch configurations if you're in the
market for something bigger. For a list
of manufacturers , see p. 73 . Warming dra wer is handy for entertaining.
68 FINE COOKING Photos: top. courtesy of manufacturer; bottom, Amy Al�ert

ant in a Range BY AMY A L B E RT
Speed cooking
new technology
GE Profile electric range 1 5 minutes, as opposed to an hour.) .:. Despite the microwave com
with Trivection The range has a complete comple ponent, there's no need to use
Model: JS998 ment of conventional modes, too. special pans.
Price: about $2,800
What's to love : Shortcomings:
G E's Trivection technology combines .:. Speedy Trivection cooking is con .:. Computerized features could feel
radiant, microwave, and convection heat venient when you're hungry and superfluous if you like using your
all in one oven, making for faster cook want dinner fast. instincts and would rather test for
ing. (For example, a lasagna baked in •:. There's a programming option doneness yourself.
that's helpful for getting used to .:. This range with a Trivection oven
Trivection. It's easy to use, even for is available only with an electric
a computer klutz (the menu reads cooktop.
like an ATM screen). Food didn't
taste microwaved.
Computerized control panel

- �25wo' :5 is easy to use. (Panel shown
is from a GE Profile wall
oven with Trivection.)
How we tested
After looking at dozens side and then broiled it on
of ranges at trade shows, the other.
showrooms, and appliance There are hundreds of
stores, we narrowed our ranges on the market, so
list of favorites. We then we decided to focus on
visited locations that had 30-inch ranges, because
the models hooked up it's a standard size if you're
and ready for cooking and replacing an old range. Plus,
performed several cooking it's a good reference and
tasks when possible. We jumping-off point when you
put lots of different pans start shopping. M ost of the
on the stovetop to check models featured on these
out the working space. We pages come in bigger sizes;
boiled water, simmered for more information, see
tomato sauce, pan-seared p. 73 for a list of manufac
a chicken breast on one turers' Web sites.
Photos: courtesy of manufacturer

Terms to know
when shopping
Btu, or British thermal units, indicate
the amount of heat the burner can throw.
You'll hear numbers ranging from 375 to
1 5,000 and higher. Look for burners with
a flame powerful enough to boil a stock
pot full of water quickly (1 5,000 is plenty)
and low enough to simmer a braise
gently (at most 1 ,1 00). Manufacturers
like DeS and Dacor refer to the low end
of intensity as a simmer temperature
(rather than as Btu) that will hold food at
about 1 50°F. This is fine; the pOint is that
the burners are built so they're capable
of functioning safely and efficiently at a
very low intensity. When you turn on a
burner, you should see a smooth, even
gradation in the flame as you go from
low to high settings. Make sure the flame
distributes itself evenly at the bottom
of a pan, especially when the heat is
1
cranked up high.
"Gas under glass" infrared broiler is
great for even browning.

Convection means the oven has
Stnart features, a fan that circulates hot air through the
great a oven for quicker, more even cooking.
ue
Gas ovens with convection usually fea
ture a simple fan ("convection") while the
convection fan in a better model of elec
Des 5-burner gas range tric oven will have its own heating unit
Model: RG SC-305
("true" or "European" convection).
Burners: low simmer to 1 7,500 Btu
.:. "Gas under glass" infrared broiler
Price range: $3,500 to $4,300
browns efficiently and even ly. Dual-fuel refers to a range with
This is one of the few 30-inch models .:. Deep area to capture cooktop a combination of gas cooktop and
we saw that has five burners-most spills is made of a type of electric oven. If you're wed to a n electric
offer only four. DCS also offers a stainless that doesn't show oven, you might want the combination of
self-cleaning gas oven, a feature scratches from scrubbing.
gas cooktop and electric oven.
that's more common than it used to
Shortcomings:
be, but still not standard. I nfrared broiler, available
.:. Squared sides and corners of
in both electric and gas configurations,
What's to love: cooktop's capture area offer
.:. Smart cooktop design: hot places for goop to collect. is a cut above a traditional broiler. This
test bumer in center, nearest to .:. Continuous cast-iron grates are type of broiler offers an entire sheet of
where you'd position overhead good and sturdy, but will be heavy heat that's great for tasks like melting
ventilation. when it's time to clean . cheese, broiling salmon, and browning
•:. Oven shelves on rollers pull out creme br(jh�e.
especially smoothly.
70 FINE COOKING Photos: courtesy of manufacturer

An oven that •
Oacar Epicure •:. Infrared gas broiler offers a continu

dual-fuel range ous sheet of flame; great for even
Model: E R D30S06 browning.
Burners : low simmer to 1 5,000 Btu .:. Burners come apart for easy cleaning.
Price: about $4, 1 00
Shortcomings:
With the Epicure series, Dacor not only .:. Notched burner rings may trap food
offers a gas cooktop with an electric residue; removing stubborn goo
oven, it goes a step further: The oven could require work with a toothpick.
cavity contains a gas broiler as well as
the standard electric bottom heating
element.
What's to love
.:. Excellent heat distribution on all
cooktop burner settings, from high
flame to gentle simmer. Especially
good on the low end.
Infrared gas broiler throws
an even sheet of flame.
I" --�_-
Top perforn1ance
homey-retro style
Heartland Legacy .:. Sturdy build and feel.
dual-fuel range
.:. Cooktop has a generous spill
Model: 3530 over area and u pswept, seam
Burners: 450 to 1 5,500 Btu less corners that don't trap
Price: about $4, 1 55 food residue .
Heartland offers several lines, in •:. Simple, easy-to-read control
cluding the Legacy series, whose buttons and panel readout.

homespun looks are a boon for .:. Infrared broiler offers an even
design mavens who love to cook: sheet of heat.
Legacy ranges boast professional
strength performance without the Shortcomings:
.:. Legacy models lack an oven
industrial-strength looks.
window (other Heartland
Con trol
What's to love models have one) .
buttons
.:. Homey looks belie top perfor
and panel
mance-a change of pace from
readout are
all the gleaming metal out there Note: If color and design are
a 7 easy to read.
(stainless also available) . a priority, also check out Aga,
.:. Dual-fuel with true convection La Cornue, Diva, Lacanche,
is standard in all models. Molteni, Morice, and Viking.
Photos: top right, Scott Phillips; bottom, courtesy of manufacturer. O C T O B E R/ NoVEM B E R 2 0 0 4 71

Hefty looks .. . - ..
perfortnance to Inatch
_. _� ,, _ . &it
- - .... t
=�;:;::;� ; .. 0=-
�-.. ... - .. - � - _
Thermador Professional .:. Large dial thermometer positioned ::::;

Series dual-fuel or
all-gas range
Model: PDR304ZS or PG R304ZS
front and center; makes oven tem
perature easy to read. -"'•..7'= � • •.• '-
Burners: 375 to 1 5,000 Btu Shortcomings:

Price: about $4,300 .:. Broiler on all-gas model didn't do
quite as even a job on browning as
If you're after commanding, professional others we tested.
style looks, feel, and performance,
Thermador's Professional could be for
you. Solidly built and impressive looking,
this range would be the centerpiece of
any kitchen.
What's to love:
.:. Star-shaped sealed burners distrib
ute heat well and boil pasta water
quickly; burners disassemble espe Star-shaped sealed burners
cially easily for cleaning. distribute heat well.
Profe
ssional feel with
cooking in mind
Wolf dual-fuel range What's to love
Model: D F304 .:. Simple control-panel design; oven tempera
Burners: 500 to 1 5,000 Btu ture readout on knob makes for easy reading.
Price: about $4,800 Hidden control panel makes cleaning easy
and provides a streamlined look.
Wolf's dual-fuel model is a relatively new offering
.:. Bottom rack slides right onto oven door to
from a company long known for its professional balance heavy roasts.
gas ranges. This model has an electric oven and
.:. Electric oven is true convection with two fans.
gas cooktop and boasts several nifty features.
.:. Hydraulic door lowers by itself with just a tug.
Shortcomings:
.:. Sturdy, continuous cast-iron grates are easy
to slide pans around on, but are also large
and heavy; possibly cumbersome.
Hidden control panel; oven temperature readout on knob.
72 FINE COOKING Photos: courtesy of manufacturers

A guide to shopping for a range
Before you shop Make a date; take a test drive
Here are points you'll need to consider ahead of time:
Appliance stores carry many sauce in a shallow pan to deter
Burners. Gas or elec to Know when Shopping,
models, but they're not usually mine how the burners distribute
tric? Most of the ranges p . 70 ) .
hooked up for cooking. For heat at all levels, from fast boil to
discussed here are gas
hands-on shopping, where you
cooktops, because most Self-cleaning. Many
can get a demonstration if not
lazy simmer and in between.
salespeople say that I F YOU CAN'T F I N D A "LIVE"
cooks prefer the control
cook on the range yourself, make RANG E, bring your favorite pots
and responsiveness of gas although a self-cleaning
an appointment at a showroom and pans to an appliance store
burners. feature sounds attractive ,
most people use it far less equipped with ranges hooked up and pantomime using them on
for cooking (known in the trade the stove. Do you like the burner
Dual-fuel. Combining than they thought they
as "live"). Several are listed below, setup, or does it feel cramped?
a gas cooktop and an elec would.
and you'll find more at the indi lift the g rates and the burner
tric oven is a great option,
especially if you're used to Ventilation. With vidual Web sites for each brand caps to see how they come apart:
the powerful burners on (below left). When you call for an Will the stovetop be easy to clean
an electric oven. In many
the models discussed appointment, be sure the brands and maintain? Open and shut the
cases, however, you'll pay
here, you'll need efficient you're interested in are "live:' oven door: Does it feel hefty or
more for it. Some bakers
ventilation, so don't W H E N YOU GO, ask to per flimsy? Move the oven racks back
prefer the precision of an
forget to think about a form some basic cooking tasks. and forth: Is it easy to ferry them
electric oven and "true
convection" (see Terms range hood. Boil a pot of water to see how around the oven cavity?
long it takes and how the burner AS K LOTS OF QU E STIONS.
distributes the flame when juked Good showrooms are staffed
up to high. Broil an open-faced with people who love to cook and
Ma-or manufacturers
-. .
grilled cheese sandwich to check
out how efficiently the broiler
who enjoy discussing the very
minutiae you're mulling over as
IT
browns. Simmer some tomato you decide on the range you want.
Age
-.. - .- lenn-Alr
Showroo s with
lVe ranges
Amana Ken more " . "
.- .
Bosch KIIchenAld
·. .. •
La Com ue Kupperabuach
East CentraVMidwest West Coast
..
- • Albano Appliance Oakton Distributors, Inc . Bradlee Distributors (Wolt)
Pound Ridge, New York Des Plaines, Illinois Seattle, Washington
Dacor Lacanche
·- . 9 1 4-764-4051 800-262-5866 206-284-8400
Cincinnati, Ohio
DCS Ma ytag BSH (Bosch, Thermador) McPhails Appliance
... . .. · Brooklyn, New York 800-5 1 0-6392 San Rafael, California
7 1 8-625-2425 Milwaukee, Wisconsin 41 5-453-6070
Diva MoIIenl
· .. . - . - . Clarke Distribution (Wolt)
800-437-6281
Purcell-Murray
Norwalk, Connecticut Roth Concept Center Brisbane, California
Rve Star Morice
. . .- . . • 203-838-9385 Aurora, Colorado
303-373-9090 and other
800-892-4040
HADCO Huntington Beach,
Frigidaire Thennador
. .. ... Dulles, Virginia
locations California
800-294-0644
800-565-0330 The Westye Group (Wolf)
GE
· - .. . .
Viking
. . ·- . Suwanee, Georgia
800-24 1 -9 1 52
Glendale Heights, Ill inois
630-872-51 00
San Jose, California
408-907-3800
Heartland . .. . . •
Whlrl. PC!O
..
I Yale Electrical Supply
Dorchester, Massachusetts
Jade and Dynasty Wolf
• ... ·
6 1 7-825-9253
.. . - .. . .
AmyAlbert is Fine Cooking's senior editor. •
O C T O B E R/ N oV E M B E R 2 0 0 4 73
c
CI) What we mean
by "heavy-duty
.c roasting pan"
u
BY J E N N I F E R A R M E NT R O U T
Even i f you only use i t once a year for the

I '
T
urkey can be tricky to cook just right-by Thanksgiving turkey, a heavy-duty flame
. - proof roasting pan is worth having. It's made
�
the time the legs are done, the breast can of thick metal ( sometimes more than one
get overcooked. There are plenty of strat layer) with a flat bottom, so it won't warp in
the oven, and you can put it right over your
I J egies to offset this problem, like roasting the
stove burners to make gravy
:; (f)
bird upside down or basting vigilantly, and from pan drippings , or
while they certainly don't hurt, the best re use it as a pancake
i (])
griddle in a
sults I 've ever tasted come from brinin g. I 've
experimented with brining turkeys for several
.... I J
years , and over the next few pages, I 'll share
my methods for preparing the Thanksgiving
bird-and for making delicious gravy. In this
installment of From Our Test Kitchen, you'll
also learn the best way to roast red peppers ,
discover which apples are best for bakin g ,
and learn how to make apple butter. Plus ,
we'll reveal the surprising results of our beef
broth tastin g.
For j u icier a n d ta sti e r meat, try bri n i ng

T
in tJ) BRINING ISN'T JUST JAZZ UPYOUR
o brine means to soak something KEEP IT COLD AND BE CAREFUL WHEN
Q, FOR TURKEY. BRINE
a salt solution, and it works because WITH OTHER RINSE IT WELL.
Any ADDING MORE SALT.
;. FLAVORS.
of a principle you learned in high school lean meat-like Add Raw meat is still The brine pro-
chemistry: osmosis, or the tendency of m pork, chicken, or herbs and spices, raw meat, whether vides just a bout
fluids to diffuse through cells in order to c::
,- shrimp-is ideal a little of a flavor- it's in brine or a l l the season i ng
equalize ion concentrations. Techspeak c:: for brining. The ful sweetener (like not. Always keep you need, so be
aside, it means that when you soak a 'I: smaller the item, honey or maple foods below 40°F judicious a bout
turkey (or other meat) in brine for long m the less time it syrup), or replace while brining, and adding more just
enough, it absorbs some of the mois needs in the brine. some of the water then rinse them before cooking.
ture-6% to 8% of its original weight, in with another well to remove Always taste first
fact-so when you cook the turkey, you DON'T OVERCOOK. liquid like a pple excess salt from when making
start off and end up with a moister bird. Brining doesn't cider or coffee. the surface before sauces with pan
Now for the bonus part: Some of completely Just remember cooking. drippings, which
the salt and any other flavors you add protect meat that when you add tend to be quite
to the brine also migrate into the bird,
against dryness, sugar, foods tend salty already.
so your turkey becomes more flavor
but it will give you to brown faster.
ful. Not only that, but the salt causes
more leeway.
a change in the turkey's protein struc
ture that allows it to better hold on to
its moisture. What could be better?

pinch. It also has sturdy handles and sides
that are about 3 inches high, so taking the
pan out of the oven is not a perilous act in
volving visions of your beautiful golden tur
key rolling across the floor.
I don't like roasting pans with nonstick
interiors. Sure, nonstick makes cleanup a
little easier, but it also means you have to be
careful about howyou treat the pan in order
to protect the nonstick surface . A roasting
pan should be a workhorse, not something
that needs a lot of coddling.
In the test kitchen, our favorite roaster
is the All-Clad 1 6x 1 3-inch stainless-steel
roasting pan. At about $200, it's pricey, but
so durable that your great-grandchildren
will probably inherit it. But if an All-Clad
isn't in your budget, C alphalon and
Cuisinart both make good roasters for
about half that price. For mail-order
sources, See p. 90.
Brined Roast Tu rkey Rub the turkey all over with a

with Sage B utter Ru b l ight coating of olive oil, and
Serves twelve to fourteen. sprinkle lightly with salt (to help
crisp the skin). Put the turkey,
1 4·pound fresh, natural tu rkey
breast side up, on a roasting
with g i blets (removed
rack in a heavy-duty flameproof
and reserved), brined as
described at left
roasting pan. Put the pan in the
Sage Butter (see the recipe on
oven, with the legs pointing to
p. 76) the back of the oven, if possible.
Olive oil as needed After the turkey has been
Kosher salt roasting for 1 hour, begin rotat
ing the roasting pan (for even
Heat the oven to 350°F and brown ing) and basting the
position a rack in the lower third turkey with pan drippings every
of the oven. Remove the tu rkey 30 minutes or so. If there aren't
from the brine, rinse it very well, enough drippings to baste
and pat it dry with paper towels. with at first, use a l ittle olive oil
Discard the brine and oven until there are drippings. The
bags. With your hands, gently turkey is done when an instant
loosen the skin from the turkey read thermometer inserted in
breast and legs, being careful the thickest part of the thigh
not to tear the skin. Use one registers 1 70°F and the juices
hand to distribute the sage but run clear when you remove
.. ter u nder the skin and use your the thermometer. Check the
other hand outside the skin to temperature in both thighs;
massage and smooth the butter sometimes one thigh will be
as evenly as possible over the done before the other. The total
NOTE: If you� turkey is turkey breast and as much of roasting time will be about 3 to
the legs as you can get to. Tuck 3 '/2 hours. Transfer the turkey
. .. . . the wings behind the turkey to a carving board, tent it with
to secure the neck skin and foil, and let it rest while you
loosely tie the legs together. make the gravy (see p. 76).
. . . .. .
O C TO B E R/ N o V E M B E R 2 0 0 4 75
co o l t o o l
Sage Butter
Yields about 1/2 cup.
112 cup u nsalted butter, at room
You can't g o temperature
2 tablespoons chopped
wrong pairing sage fresh sage
with turkey. Make 114teaspoon freshly grou nd
BASICS RECIPE this butter up to 114
black pepper
teaspoon Bell's poultry
seasoning (optional)
Adefatting
better tool for
broth
Tu rkey Broth two days ahead.
In a medium bowl, stir all the The fat separator-a cup with
Yields about 3 1/2 cups.
ingredients until well combined.
You can make this broth up to a spout at the bottom that lets
Refrigerate if making ahead.
you pour off fat-free liquid
M us h ro o m G ravy
three days ahead.
once the fat has risen to the
Turkey neck, tail, gizzard, and
top-is a pretty good idea,
heart
2 tablespoons vegetable oil except for one d rawback:
1 large onion, peeled and cut The woodsy flavor of porcini makes this gravy some Some fat always gets i n the
into 2-i nch pieces thing special. Start soaking the mushrooms at least spout, too. Oxo has come u p
112 teaspoon kosher salt 15 minutes before the turkey is done. with a neat little solution to
1 small carrot, peeled and cut
into 2-i nch pieces Yields about 1 quart. back into the roasting pan. that problem: A rubber stop
1 rib celery, cut into 2-i nch V2 ounce (V2 cup) dried
Set the roasting pan over per in the spout that keeps
pieces porci ni mushrooms two burners on medium the fat in the cup and out of
1 bay leaf 1 recipe tu rkey broth (left) heat. Sprin kle the flour into
the spout. The fat separator
2 large sprigs each fresh 114 cup tu rkey fat (see the pan and use a flat whisk
thyme and parsley or wooden spoon to com holds 4 cups of liquid and has
below) or vegetable oil
1 0 black peppercorns 6 tablespoons a l l -pu rpose bine it with the fat. Cook for a handy built-i n strainer, too.
flour about 2 min utes. It isn't perfect, however. I n
Chop the neck into three or 2 to 3 sprigs fresh thyme
four pieces with a cleaver;
Slowly pour 1/2
cup of order for the stopper t o do its
1 112 teaspoons fresh lemon the broth into the pan while
chop the gizzard in half. Heat job, you have to have enough
ju ice; more to taste wh isking vigorously to dis
the oil in a large (at least 3- Kosher salt and freshly liquid to come a bove the top
perse the flour. The liquid
quart) saucepan over medium ground black pepper of the spout opening (about
should thicken qu ickly and
low heat. Add the neck, tail, 1 % cups). Otherwise, you end
Soak the porci ni in 1 cup become gluey. As soon
gizzard, heart, onion, and salt.
as it th ickens, whisk in up actually sucking more fat
Stir to coat with oil, cover, and very hot water until soft,
cook gently for 20 minutes, 1 0 to 1 5 minutes. Fish another 1/2 cup broth. Re into the spout when you re
out the porcini and slowly peat until the gravy starts move the stopper. For those
stirring occasionally; the meat
pour the soaki ng liquid to look more like a smooth
will release lots of juices. Add times when you don't have
into the tu rkey broth, leav sauce; then whisk in the
4 cups cold water, the carrot, enough liquid, this cup isn't
ing any sediment from the remaining broth and bring
celery, herbs, and peppercorns. the best choice-a smaller
mushrooms behind; you to a simmer. Add the thyme
Bring to a boil over medium
and simmer for 5 minutes. version would be ideal.
high heat, cover, and simmer should have about 4 cups
combined liquid. Chop the Strain the gravy through a
gently until the broth is flavor
porcini finely. medium sieve and stir in the
ful, about 45 minutes. Strain
After transferring the chopped porcini and lemon
the broth, cool, and, if using
turkey to a cutting board, juice. Season to taste with
right away, remove and discard
pour the drippings from the salt, pepper, and more
the fat (for a tool to help you
lemon juice.
do this, see above right) . If roasting pan into a heat
making ahead, refrigerate the proof measuring cup. Let
broth and discard the solidified the fat rise to the top and
fat before using. then spoon % cup of the fat
quality custom
Your Dr emd
CiINCiAMI # 1 SVlpeJ' Stai ",less Steel

•• Overa l l length (4" blade), Ebon}' hand le
8"
P�omoti onal P�ice $21 .00, w/leathe� case $25.00
S&H $5 (lASA 0,,1)') CA add )'0"'" co"""t)' tax
Japol'\ese KV\ife B..ochlA
. ..e. & O",del"
1 -800-443-55 1 2• www. hidatool . com
HIDA TOOL I]\lC.
1333 San Pa blo Avent.le, Berkele}', CA 94702
Perfect
Espresso
Everytime
Explore the
fool-proof
Nespresso System
at 1st in Coffee .
�T
'N
cl'FFEE
Viwwwsit .us1statincoffee.com or call 800-709-8210

Our culinary travel

programs integrate an
Italian villa holiday
with a cooking school vacation.
For more information call:
(973) 344-7577
www.lavillacucina.com
All Natural Pares & Charcuterie Since 1975
'Traditional pates and mousses,

'Bloc de "fuie Gras de Canard,
'Vegetable for Seafood 'Terrines.
www.3pigs.com
Call 1l,.fin' )0111'./;'('1.' (,lItal()J!, at
1-800-LES PATE (;37-7283)

O C T O B E R/ N o V E M B E R 2 0 0 4 77
Not every apple belongs in a pie
It's hard to think of another some of the most common vari
fruit that's available in more eties into these three helpful
varieties than apples. With all categories. For pies, Pam rec
those choices, picking one for a ommends mainly using apples
pie or other apple dessert ( like that hold their shape, along
the ones on pp. 64-67) can be with a few apples that soften
tricky because each variety be to tie evetything together. I f
haves a little differently when you're considering a variety
cooked. To cut down on the that isn't listed, test its flavor
guesswork, contributing editor and texture yourself by saute
Pam Anderson has classified ing a few slices in butter.
Honey-Spice
Apples that soften Apple Butter

Yields about 1 1/2 cups.
Apples that hold their shape

E m p ire
C ortland
Fairly juicy, tart, and 2 pounds M a cintosh apples,
Good complex flavor
peeled, cored, and cut into
Rom e with well-rounded l -inch chu n ks
Softens but holds it Golden Delicious sweetness. 2 cups apple cider
shape nicely. Quite Holds its shape fairly
Y4cup dark brown sugar
juicy, with a complex well but gets a bit

Y4cup honey
s weet-tart flavor. mushy. Very juicy

Va teaspoon ground cinna mon
Pinch ground a l lspice
but flavor lacks com Pinch kosher salt
plexity.
Combine the apples and cider in
a heavy-based 3-quart saucepan.
Bring to a boil over medium-high
heat and then reduce the heat to
a maintain a simmer. Cook, stir
ring occasionally, until the apples
have mostly broken down, about
30 minutes. Use a rubber spat
Practically purees ula to force the mixture through a
itself when cooked.
medium sieve into a bowl. Rinse
out the saucepan and return the
Sweet with a pretty
Macou n m ixture to the pan. Whisk in the
pink hue. Great in
Granny S m ith Not very juicy.
brown sugar, honey, cinnamon,
applesauce and
Holds its shape
allspice, and salt. Bring back to
Nice pink color
preserves. a simmer over medium heat and
fairly well. Flavor and great flavor.
adjust the heat to maintain a
is not as appley as
vigorous simmer. Cook u ntil the
Apples to avoid in cooking

others, but is fine
mixture reduces and thickens to
when teamed with a a spreadable consistency, about
Braeburn
softer, perfumy apple. 75 minutes. As the mixture cooks,
stir occasionally at first and then
Great texture-soft
more frequently as it thickens;
but still holds its
keep in mind that the apple but
shape. Flavor is on
ter will th icken a little more as it
the sweet side. cools. Scrape the apple butter
into a storage container and
Red Del i c i ou s press a piece of plastic wrap
Flavorless when
directly on the surface to prevent
a skin from forming as it cools.
cooked. Save this one
Once completely cool, you can
for the lunch box.
remove the plastic, cover with
Fuji a lid, and refrigerate for up to
When cooked, flavor two weeks.
is flat and texture is like
reconstituted dried apple.
78 F I N E C O OKI N G
Cutlervand
w w w . c u t l e ry a n d m o re . co m
The I nternet'sMore
HI Ho,
SILVER RABBIT! Wiisthof � � � Kitchen Store .
1-800-650-9866
THE NEW
SILVER RABBIT® CORKSCREW you r favo rite .
WEARS A SHINING
SUIT OF ARMOR
new a n d Im proved.
8 " Hollow Edge
Cook's Knife
exclusively at:
w w w . c u t l e ry a n d m o re . c o m
Cuisinart
TIle COMPLETE Cuisinart
product line is available
to order on-line at
:"!tiifll www.CuisinSbol)·COm
Beneath its polishedfinish,

the Silver Rabbit has the Make your own ice creams, gelatos,
same sturdy mechanism as sorbets, and frozen yogurts with an
ice cream maker from the largest
the original Rabbit, which in
selection the us.
proved it can uncork 20,000 www.MakeIceCream.com
wine bottles·. And it has the
same gear teeth as the
original-made of hard
metal instead ofplastic used
in other lever-action
corkscrews. Both models pull
a wine cork in three seconds
flat. It may take longer to
choose between them.
• Independent lab test
W H E RE To Go S I LVER RAB BIT

H U NTING: BEVE RAG E S & The New Standard
MORE, BLOOMI N G DALES,
COOKI NG.COM, FOLEYS,
Leavecookware
it to thethatSwisout-perf
s to desiogrmsn mul01/tithe-cladrest.
G E E RLINGS & WADE,
KITC H E N KAPERS, LORD &
TAYLOR, MACY*S WEST O R
YOU R FAVORITE W I N E STORE.
�-C?rabbi t·
0 r 5ere w k
by Metrokane
See the Rabbit run at metrokane.com

D43 0 9 9 4 and other U.S. Patents
READER SERVICE N O . 1 3
Turnip
°1Rutabaga ,
Because they're sometimes marketed as
yellow turnips or wax turnips, rutabagas
are frequently confused with turnips.
Both of these root vegetables are mem
How to roast a red pepper

bers of the Brassica family, which includes
cabbages, but the rutabaga is probably a
hybrid of a cabbage and a turnip.
. .. .. .. . .. . . .. .. . Turnips are usually white-fle shed
.. ' .. . .. with white or white and purple skin .
- . Rutabagas usually have yellow flesh and
.. . .. . . .. . a purple-tinged yellow skin, and they're
.. . .. . .. bigger than turnips. ( There are also
yellow-fleshed turnips and white-fleshed
rutabagas, but you won't generally find
them in supermarkets. ) Both vegetables
have a slightly sweet but snappy flavor
reminiscent of cabbage. Rutabagas are
sweeter than turnips.
When p u rchasing e ither, choose
.. . . .. . . ... those that are firm and feel heavy for
. .. . . their size. Turnips tend to get woody as
•• they grow, so look for ones that are less
than 4 inches in diameter. If the greens
.. .. . . ... . are still attached, re-
. .. .. .. . move them before
storing the roots in Prep tips
a plastic bag in the
Before peeling a turnip
... refrigerator for up to
or rutabaga, trim off the
-. two weeks. Store the
top and bottom; this
turnip greens sepa
gives you a flat surface
rately if you plan to
on which to stand the
eat them.
vegetable and will elimi
FOR ELECTRIC STOVES, get a
nate wobbling. Turnip
stovetop pepper roaster.
skin is usually tender
It turns your electric
enough to pare with a
burner into a l ittle vegetable peeler. Ruta
grill. and it's also
bagas are often sold
handy for heating
coated in food-grade
tortillas. For sou rces, wax and usually require
see p. 90.
paring with a knife.
200 RECIPES FROM FINE COOKING MAGAZINE
, 'A cookbook filled , , . . . food and recipes

with recipes that that Americans
are pure, fresh, COOKI N G N love, cooked by
simple and most some of America's
importantly - greatest chefs.
instructional. A treasure to
Hats off to have in any kitchen
Taunton for yet J library. ' ,
another creative - L I D I A BAST I A N I C H
culinary triumph! "
-J O A N N E W E I R
Hardcover, $29.95
3 8 0 color photos, 240 pages
Product #070788
Fine Cooking's first cookbook

wins rave reviews !
F E AT U R E D C H E F S I N C L U D E
Bruce Aidells • Pam Anderson • John Ash • Gale Gand
Joyce Goldstein • Gordon Hamersley • Caprial Pence
Mai Pham • Leslie Revsin • Norman Van Aiken
Paula Wolfert • Alice Waters
Carolyn Weil • Joanne Weir
Anne Willan
Order Our First Cookbook Today

Ca1l800�888�8286
or go to www.andtaunton.
mentioncom/cookbook
offer code MC80004
©2004 The Taunton Press
O C T O B E R/N o V E M B E R 2 0 0 4 81
It a s t i n g p a n e l
Canned beef broth
Ton
H lpi[k
omemade beef broth may be the
secret to four-star sauce s , but for
most of us, the store-bought vari
ety is infin ite ly more convenient. To PACI FI C
find out which brands are good to use , $2.99 for a
32-ounce aseptic carton
eight Fine Cooking staffers participated This broth's authentic beef
in a blind tasting of s ix products sold at flavor, subtle vegetal notes,
and rounded consistency
supermarkets across the country. (We made it the definitive favorite.
chose the low-sodium version if ava il Rich and well seasoned, it
was perfectly tasty sipped
able . ) Remarkably, only one broth-our
straight from a spoon. A
top pick-was assertively and pleasantly solid choice for a soup base
or braising liquid. Reducing
beefy. The rest, while not entire ly un
would concentrate the good
pleasant, were vaguely beefy, if that. beef flavor as well as the salt,
-Kimberly Y. Masibay, associate editor so be sure to taste before
salting further.
The others Beef broths are numbered in order of preference; prices may vary.
2 KITC H E N
BAS I CS
3 CAM PB E LL:S 4 SWA N S O N 5 COLLEG E I N N 6 H EALTH
$1 .29 for a Lower Sod i u m Lower Sod i u m VALLEY
$3. 1 9 for a 1 O.5-ounce can $1 .29 for a 89¢ for a $ 1 .89 for a
32-ounce aseptic carton This concentrated broth 1 4-ounce can 1 4.5-ounce can 1 4.25-ounce can
This clear, amber-colored was coffee-dark (even Its bland flavor-vaguely Available primarily in the This product received low
broth had a nice peppery after being diluted with sweet, vaguely vegetal- Northeast, this broth scores because it didn't
note, but tasters wanted water, as instructed on wasn't exactly offensive, had a familiar bouillony taste like beef broth. The
a fuller, rounder beef fla- the label) and looked but it wasn't beefy either. aroma, reminiscent of pleasant, sweet flavors of
vor. Inoffensive and mild, promising. But tast- "This could almost pass a high-school cafeteria. cooked carrot, celery, and
this lightly salted broth ers complained that it for chicken broth;' noted The slightly beefy flavor onion came through loud
is a safe bet for braises, tasted like bouillon and one taster. Its pale brown was marred by a deep, and clear, but tasters won-
pan sauces, and risot- was staggeringly salty. color and thin consistency lingering bitterness. The dered, "Where's the beef?"
tos, where reduction is Marrowy undertones didn't help. broth was the lightest The broth was greenish-
involved and other strong and notes of onion and colored of the bunch and brown and clouded with
flavors dominate. burnt caramel. slightly cloudy. sediment.
82 FINE COOKING
,
THE WORLD'S LARGEST SELECTION OF COOKBOOKS-OVER 9,000 TITLES
Up to 75% off at J essica 's Bi scu it®/ecookbooks . com rM
Jessica's Biscuit® Exclusive:
r-.:===
40% Off These Brand-New
Arthur Avenue Cookbook
Cookbooks! Ultimate Muffin Book A v... In . Year in a Vegetarian
by Ann Volkwein
Recipes and memories from the
by Bruce Weinstein
and Mark Scarbrough
VECETARIAN KITCHI" Kitchen
by Jack Bishop
heart of the Bronx's most celebrated More than 600
recipes for sweet
and savory muffins.
Easy seasonal dishes for
family and friends.
italian-American community
Hardcover-Item# 05604 Paperback-Item# 05625 Hardcover-Item# 05638
List $34.95 List $16.95 List: $35.00
You r Price $20.97 Your Price $1 0.1 7 Your Price: $21 .00
The Ol ive and the Caper Cooking In The ====�

r:::: Coastal Cooking
by Susanna Hoffman Lowcountry From The Old with John Shields
Adventures in Greek cooking Post Office Restaurant by John Shields
with this inspiring collection by Jane and Michael Stern 125 of the best recipes from the
of325 recipes. 150 favorite recipes for Southern Atlantic, Pacific, and Gulf coasts,
and Hawaii.
Paperback Hardcover dishes with a classical twist.
Item# 056 1 7 Item# 061 2 1 Hardcover-Item# 05869 Hardcover-Item# 05787
List $1 8.95 List $28.95 List: $1 9.99 List $32.50
L-_-"--_----' Your Price $11.37 Your Price $17.37
Geronimo:
1aL. =- _
_= _ Your Price: $1 1 .99
Frank Stitt's
E��:::�;j Your Price $1 9.50
Fix-It and Forget-It Lightly

Fine Dining in Santa Fe Southern Table by Phyllis Pellman Good
by Cliff Skoglund by Frank Stitt Healthy, low-fat recipes for your
and Eric DiStefano Alabama's favorite son offers up slow cooker.
Discover this refined retreat serving 150 recipes from Highlands Bar Paperback Hardcover
exquisite contemporary cuisine. and Grill. Item# 05862 Item# 05861
Hardcover-Item# 05627 H ardcover-Item# 05643 List $15.95 List $24.95
List $50.00 �I.:'t-�I!.m List $40.00 Your Price $9.57 Your Price $14.97
LlUlLl::::=3I,MJ
Your Price $30.00 L...=:...!!ll!U!
....Jl
__..... Your Price $24.00
Italian Easy Aroma: Recipes for Steaks, Chops,

By Rose G ray Scented Food Fragrance
& STEAKS, CHOPS, Roasts and Ribs
and Ruth Rogers by Mandy Altel
ROASTS, RIBS
and
--_.._..__._-_... by the Cook's I l lustrated Editors
----_
---_ ....__-_ .._-
...._-_
Remarkably easy recipes from and Daniel Patterson . -----_ ..- ... All you need to know about meat,
the London River Cafe. Alluring recipes for lime, mint, green plus 300+ foolproof recipes.
H ardcover-Item# 05856 tea, vanilla, ginger, and more. Hardcover-Item# 05781
List: $35.00 Hardcover-Item# 05644 List: $35.00
Your Price: $21 .00 List $30.00 Your Price: $21 .00
L-- _�__ --' Your Price $1 8.00
•
'Jessica's Biscuit is my choicefor
buying all my cookbooksfor several
reasons - extraordi nary variety, great
call for
eCOO KBOO KS . COM

prices, and speedy delivery. What FREE
more could anyone want!"
Charlie Trotter '---'-_
- _ -'-' catalog
Jessica's Biscuit� P.o. Box 30 Newton. MA 02460
I.
CI) f
U
c F reezlng
·
-0 How to get safe,

o del i cious results
o
4- BY LI N DA J . H A R R I S , P H . D .
W
e all have a favorite kitchen pealing, even i f it's still techni Freezing isn't forever. Com many variables: How fresh was
appliance , one that we cally safe to eat. mercially frozen foods often the food whe n it was frozen?
couldn't imagine being have a "best if used by" date, How quickly did it freeze? What
without. For me, it's the freezer. Not all freezi n g is created which makes inventory-control was the storage temperature ,
It holds everything I need-fro equal easy. But what about all the food and was it consistent? How will
zen tortillas and breads, an as It might seem like the only role you've frozen yourself: Can you the food ultimately be used?
sortment of vegetables and you play in freezing is finding eat that chili from 1999? And, perhaps most important,
meats-to make tasty meals space in the freezer, but actu I don't think there's a simple how discriminating is your pal
within minutes of arriving home ally there's a lot you can do to answer. Storage guidelines, like ate? For the sake of flavor, I'd
from work. And when time is on streamline the freezing process those on p. 86, give wide esti probably make a new batch of
my side, I know I 'll have chopped and to keep your food in opti mates because they depend on (Continued on p. 86)
herbs, homemade stock, berries, mum condition.
pastry dough, and many other Faster is better. The pack
ingredients at hand to prepare aged frozen foods you see at the
more elaborate dishes. supermarket were most likely
How does the freezer make "flash frozen" in a super-cold in
all this possible ? Well, when dustrial freezer. The faster food Set the freezer to QOF or lower and monitor the temperature
you freeze food, a couple of fre ezes, the better-because with a freezer thermometer (available at supermarkets and
important things happen. First, freezing is a bit injurious to food. hardware stores).
the pathogens that cause food the water in food freezes, ice
As Store food in containers that provide a barrier to air and
borne illness can't grow, which crystals form and rupture cell moisture. Well-sealed plastic freezer containers work, as do
makes food-safety experts like walls. Rapid freezing keeps the heavy-duty plastic freezer bags or wrap, freezer paper, or
me jump for joy. In fact, as long ice crystals tiny and reduces heavy-duty foil. (Many foods expand upon freezing, so don't
as food remains frozen, it's as the time for cells to leak fluids, overfill, but at the same time don't leave too much air space.)
safe as the day it was put in the which is good for the food's Small items freeze faster, so freeze food portions you normally
freezer. ( It's thawing that invites quality. Large ice crystals can use in recipes: one or two cups of stock, a cup of sliced
trouble , but we 'll get to that damage meat or produce, lead bananas, a tablespoon of tomato paste.
later. ) Second, freezing also pre ing to texture and moisture loss
Arrange unfrozen packages in a single layer, slightly separated
serves food's quality by slowing when the food is thawed.
from one another, so they freeze faster.
down the microbes and chemi Yo ur home fre e zer c a n ' t
cal reactions that degrade food . mimic the efficacy o f an indus Try to place foods on the freezer's floor or near the walls.
But some of these reactions do trial freezer that freezes food in Don't overload the freezer with too much unfrozen food at once.
continue during frozen storage , minutes and stores it well below And once food is frozen, keep the items stacked closely together.
so eventually, the flavor, color, D°F. But you can still get decent Freezers are most energy efficient when full. If your freezer is
and texture deteriorate to the results at home by using the tac running low, consider freezing jugs or containers of water.
point that the food just isn't ap- tics in the box at right.
84 FINE COOKING Photo: Scott Phillips

Floral Bundt® Pans
E,�ot,J beau tifllllt,J detailed caRcs

ill the shapcs of t,J our favorite flowers.
®
Nordic Ware® 5005 7
Hwy Minneapolis, MN 55416
877·466·7342 •www.nordicware.com
READER SERVICE NO. 45 READER SERVICE NO. 93
Join us in SDCli R;�·:;;U

for a WOlndE!rful'l
hands-on
experience and
savor a
treasure fet to
be unveiled. Le Cordon Bleu culinary
training in Southern California!
• 1 5-month Culinary Arts AOS Degree Program
.
• 30-week Patisserie & Baking Diploma Program
• 1 2-month Hospitality & Restaurant
Management Diploma Program
the source.com- Morning, Afternoon & Evening C lasses Avai lable.
Tuition planning assistance available to all students.
Accredited member of ACICS and Veteran approved .
OXO
Good Grips
Citrus Squeezer $1 299 CALIFORNIA SCHOOL OF CULINARY ARTS
thegadgetsource.com
LE CORDON BLEU PROGRAMS
521 E. Green Street, Pasadena, CA 91101
Over 3,000 Cooking Tools! CALL TODAY! 1 -888-900-1433
1 -800-458-261 6
vvvvw.calchef.com • vvvvw .chefmgmt.com
O C T O B E R/N o V E M B E R 2004 85
�
c chili before consuming vintage Those temperature fluctua
.-UCD 1999, but some people wouldn't

give it a second thought.
Use the kitchen freezer for
tions cause microscopic melting
and refreezing in foods, which
encourages ice-crystal growth.
Q: Is it
refreeze food
OK to
U) fast turnover. The refrigerator's
freezer is best for short-term
Over time, this harms the food's
texture . And as water moves
that's been
thawed ?
U storage, one or two months. The from one area in the food to
o temperature inside a kitchen another, the surface of the food A: Food can be safely
freezer fluctuates over a broad dries out-a condition known as refrozen within 48 hours
o range because it's opened often, freezer burn. Water migration of thawing if the thawing
4- and also because the self-defrost can also create visible ice crys took place in the refrig
feature includes programmed tals. If you've kept ice cream for erator or in cold water
heating and cooling to melt frost longer than a couple of weeks, and the temperature of
before it builds up. you know what I mean. the thawed food has
So for long-term frozen stor remained below 40°F. But
age-up to 1 2 months-stash the food's quality might
To freeze
food in a stand-alone freezer suffer because fluids that
that won't be opened often and seep from cells during re
o r not to fr ze? doesn't have a defrost feature. freezi ng and subsequent
The table below lists foods that freeze thawing can adversely
Thawi n g foods safely affect texture and flavor.
well and those that don't. Before you put
There 's one thing I don't like
an item in the freezer, stick a label on
about frozen food : thawing it.
it. Write the item's name and the date it
From a food-safety perspective,
was prepared. The guidelines below will
that's when you court trouble. refrigerate the food until you're
help you calculate a "use-by" date.
As food thaws, the outer surface ready to use it-which, ideally,
warms up first. Cells that were should happen quickly. Thawed
Foods that freeze well damaged during freezing release frozen food spoils as fast as, or
Red meat: 4 to 1 2 months nutrients and moisture . And faster than, its never-frozen
in some foods, this can create co unte r p a rt b e c a u s e c e l l s
Poultry: 9 to 1 2 months ideal conditions for pathogens ruptured during freezing and
Seafood : 3 to 6 months to grow and multiply. thawing release nutrients for
Foods
Thaw food at the tempera microbes to consume.
Raw bacon: 1 to 2 months that don't
freeze well ture you plan to store it. Baked If you're in a real hurry to put
Some casseroles: 1 to 4 months goods-breads , cake s , cook something on the table, you can
High-moisture vege
Soup, stew, and stock: ies-can be safely thawed and use your microwave's defrost
tables like lettuce,
2 to 4 months celery, and cabbage
stored at room temperature. But feature to thaw food you plan to
become watery. meat, prepared entrees, fruits prepare and eat right away.
Cooked legumes: 4 to 6 months and vegetables, and raw dough Or, better yet, skip thaw
Cream and custard should be thawed and stored ing entirely. My favorite frozen
Whole berries: 8 to 1 2 months
fillings separate.
in the refrigerator to minimize foods a re those that can go
Peeled ripe bananas:
Meringue toughens. pathogen activity. Just like slow straight from the freezer to the
2 to 4 weeks
freezing, slow thawing can lead oven or microwave for reheat
Milk u ndergoes flavor
Blanched vegetables: to moisture loss, but food safety ing: Frozen vegetables can go
changes.
2 to 1 2 months, depending always trumps quality. right from the freezer into a
on the vegetable Sour cream and yogurt Admittedly, doing things the steamer or pot of boiling water.
separate. right way can try one's patience: And, of course, frozen fruit can
Bread: 6 to 8 months
Heavy cream won't It can take more than two days go right into the blender for a
Pie dough: 6 to 8 weeks
whip after being to defrost a 12-pound frozen quick, satisfying smoothie.
N uts: 6 to 1 2 months frozen. turkey in the fridge . To safely
Butter: 6 to 9 months hasten thawing, seal the frozen Linda J. Harris, Ph.D., has a
item in a leakproof container or doctorate in microbiology and is a
Egg whites: 1 2 months plastic bag and immerse it in cooperative extension specialist in
Flour: 6 to 1 2 months cold tap water. (Check the water the Department of Food Science
every half an hour to be sure it Technology at the University of
&
remains cold . ) Once thawed , California, Davis. •
86 F I N E COOKING
advertisers' i ndex
To get more information from advertisers. use the reader service card attached.
For quick access to their websites, go to the Shopping Guide at www.finecooking.com/shopping
Advertiser SerReader
Number vice Web Address Page Advertiser SerReader
Number vice Web Address Page
A Cook's Wares 32'67 wwwwww .cookswares.com p. 15 Jamison Farms 7675 wwwwww .jamisonfarms.com p. 92
A Gourmet's Pantry .agourmetspantry.com p. 93 Japanese Chef's Knife .japanesechefsknife.com p. 92
p. 17 p. 83
All-Clad Metalcrafters
American Personal Chef
Association
49
91 www
www.allclad.com
.personalchef.com p. 91
Jessica's Biscuit Cookbooks
Kershaw Knives
Kikkoman I nternational, Inc.
11078 wwwwww .ecookbooks.com
www.kershawknives.com
.kikkoman-usa.com
p. 11
p. 2-3
p. 91
Sweepstakes
Art Culinaire
www.finecooking.com/winners
3587 wwwwww .frenchranges.com
p. 88
p. 92
Kitchen Knives.com
Kitchen Tools
Kitchen Universe
& Skills 6166107 www .kitchenknives.com
www.kitchentoolsandskills.com
www.kitchenuniverse.net
p. 91
p. 35
Barry Gordon Wood Carving .barrygordon.com p. 92 Knife Merchant 289 www.knifemerchant.com p. 93
p. 92 p. 29
Bella Copper
Beyond Pots and Pans
The Bowl M ill
2684100 www.bellacopper.com
www.beyondpotsandpans.com
www.bowlmill.com
p. 91
p. 35
Kuhn-Rikon Corporation
Kuhn-Rikon Corporation
Kyocera Advanced Ceramics
8
56
www.kuhnrikon.com/fine
www.kuhnrikon.com/fine
www.kyoceraadvanced
p. 79
Bulk Foods 8310 www.bulkfoods.com p. 91 ceramics. com p. 25
p. 25 p. 13
California Culinary Academy
California School of Culinary
www.baychef.com
p. 85
La Villa Bonita
La Villa Cucina 5346102 www.lavillabonita.com
www.lavillacucina.com p. 77
p. l 1
Arts
Capresso
Capresso
10810919 www.chefmgmt.com
www.capresso.com
www.capresso.com
p. 17
p. 33
CAcademie de Cuisine
Ladd Hill Orchards
LamsonSharp 861415
www.lacademie.com
www.laddhillchestnuts.com
www.lamsonsharp.com
p. 92
p. 29
Catacurian 3617 www.catacurian.com p. 85 Le Cordon Bleu www.cordonbleu.edu p. 33
Catch of the Sea, Inc. www.catchofthesea.com p. 93 Leifheit 4841 www.leifheitusa.com p. 9
Chef's Catalog 9424 www.chefscatalog.com p. 36 Magic Seasoning Blends www.chefpaul.com p. 9
Chesapeake Bay Gourmet www.chesapeakebaygourmet.com p. 79 Magic Seasoning Blends 10113 www.chefpaul.com p. 15
Claire's Corner Copia www.clairescornercopia.com p. 1 1 Metrokane www.metrokane.com p. 79
Classic Cookers p. 93 M icroplane 69 www.microplane.com p. 36
p. 91 p. 92
The Clever Cook
Complements t o the Chef
Cook Street
40515 www.clevercook.com
www.complementstothechef.com
www.cookstreet.com
p. 9
p. 35
Millies Pierogi
Monini Olive Oils
Mugnaini Imports 379262
www.milliespierogi.com
www.monini.com/usa
www.mugnaini.com
p. 95
p. 93
Cookbook Publishers 3912 www.cookbookpublishers.com p. 93 Nordic Ware www.nordicware.com p. 13
Cookbooks by Morris Press www.morriscookbooks.com p. 91 Nordic Ware 93 www.nordicware.com p. 85
p. 1 1 p. 91
Cookies on Call
Cuisinart
Cuisinshop.com
70115 www.cookiesoncall.com
www.cuisinart.com
www.Guisinshop.com
p. 11
p. 79
Olio Olinda Olive Oil
The Pepper Mill
Petaluma Coffee and Tea Co.
573 www.olioolinda.com
www.thepeppermillinc.com
www.petalumacoffee.com
p. 92
p. 91
Culinary Parts Unlimited 42 www.culinaryparts.com p. 35 Pig Tail Food Flipper 4734 www.pigtailff.com p. 77
Culinary Vacations, Inc. 58 www.culinaryvacationsinc.com p. 91 Pillivuyt USA, I n c . www.pillivuytus.com p. 33
CutieryandMore.com 96 www.cutleryandmore.com p. 79 Plum Pudding Kitchen www.plumpuddingkitchen.com p. 9
Damco-Messermeister, Inc. 85 www.messermeister.com p. 21 Plum's Cooking Co. 80103 www.plumscooking.com p. 25
Dickinson's 7720 www.dickinsonsfamily.com p. 23 Pots de Creme www.potsdecreme.com p. 91
Earthstone Wood-Fire Ovens www.earthstoneovens.com p. 91 Rafal Spice Co. 2311 www.rafalspicecompany.com p. 92
Easy Cookin' 774 www.easycookin.com p. 93 Replacements, Ltd. www.replacements.com p. 91
Edward Hamilton Bookseller www.erhbooks.com/fsk p. 15 Saeco USA, Inc. 4522 www.saeco�usa.com p. 85
Emile Henry 5025 www.emilehenry.com p. 29 Salsa2u www.salsa2u.com p. 91
p. 77 p. 93
1st in Coffee
Factory Direct Restaurant
www. l stincoffee.com
stores.ebay.coml
factorydirectrestaurantsupply p. 91
San Francisco Herb Co.
Scherr's Cabinet &
School of Gourmet Cooking
Doors, Inc. 826452 www www.sfherb.com
.scherrs.com
www.pcdi.edu
p. 77
p. 93
43106 p. 13 p. 13
Fagor America, Inc.
Falk Culinair
Fine Cooking's Cooking New
www.fagoramerica.com
www.copperpans.com p. 13
Select Appliance
Silpat by Demarle
Staub USA, Inc.
976016 www.selectappliance.com
www.demarleusa.com
www.staubusa.com
p. 36
p. 77
p. 81 p. 93
American
Fine Cooking's Shopping Guide
www.taunton.com/cookbook
www.finecooking.com/shopping p. 37
p. 15
Sugarcraft, Inc.
Sullivan University 6118 wwwwwwwww.sugarcraft.com
. sullivan.edu p. 93
p. 92
The Flying Noodle
F ood
Food Saver
& Wine Trails Tours 3863 www.flyingnoodle.com
www.foodandwinetrails.com
www.foodsavershop.com
p. 93
p. 9
Sunburst Trout Company
Sur La Table
Sweet Celebrations
29 . sunbursttrout.com
www.surlatable.com
www.sweetc.com
p. 21
p. 15
p. 93 982 p. 36
Frenchbutterdish.com
The Gadget Source 545568 www.frenchbutterdish.com
www.thegadgetsource.com p. 85
p. 92
Swissmar Imports, Ltd.
Tienda.com
www.swissmar.com
www.tienda.com p. 93
p. 92
The Gadget Source
Gold Medal Wine Club
The Good C ook
73 www www.thegadgetsource.com
.goldmedalwine.com
www.jointhegoodcook.com
p. 25
p. 34a
Trenton Bridge Lobster Pound
Trois Petits Cochons, Inc.
Upton Tea I mports
317227 wwwwww .trentonbridgelobster.com
www.3pigs.com
. uptontea.com
p. 77
p. 93
p. 92 p. 91
Gourmet Kitchen Store
Gourmet Food Auction
90 www www.gourmet-kitchen-store.com
. gourmetfoodauction.com p. 21
p. 25
Vac Master
WMF of America 59471 wwwwwwwww .aryvacmaster.com
.wmf-usa.com p. 31
p. 31
Green Mountain Sugar House
Hida Tool
The I nstitute of Culinary
81112 wwwwww .gmsh.com
. hidatool.com p. 77
William Bounds, Ltd.
Woodbridge Winery
Wusthof Knife
95104 wwwwww .wmboundsltd.com
.woodbridgewines.com
.wusthof.com
p. 18
p. 31
Education 65116 wwwwww .iceculinary.com p. 93
J. Lohr Winery .jlohr.com p. 7
OCTOBER/NoVEMBER 2004 87
We've found
erica's
Best Home Cook!
... and she is Kara Adanalian,
our grand prize winner!
Kara's recipe for Ribeye Steak Sandwiches
was judged best of the six original recipes
prepared by the finalists at our national
cook-off in San Francisco.
Please turn to page 54 for Kara's and
the other finalists' recipes and visit our
Web site for more contest details.
CO NTEST P R E S E NT E D BY
CObking. S�l�TJ&
A Cook's Paradise�
• •
ameri ca' s
B EST
Th an ks to
o u r s po n s o rs !
home cook™
9-piece All-Clad stainless
steel cookware set
2 sizes of baguette trays and

Roul'Pat non-stick working station
-='
All-Ciad

S I L P A T' METALCRAFfERS L C
UJOLF' I
Winner's choice of Wolf or Sub-Zero appliance One-year
supply of extra
virgin olive oil,
A case of illy in five varieties
E.S.E. espresso pods
with FrancisFrancis!
The Complete
espresso maker
6-piece 38000 Series. OXO· Kitchen Collection
c.a.•
KYOTO P ceramic chef's knife and serrated knife
�K!:jadvanced
O[ERa ceramics
9-piece set of Ouroply cookware
33-piece all-occasion collection 16-piece set of CombiNation
of porcelain cookware Cuisine cookware
6-piece die cast Rabbit
KUHN Corkscrew and bar set
RIKON
SWI T ZERLAND
C ;:;"a.bbit
�-f' 0r 5erew k
LApr".rtlainfdrPMIJ 1818 by Metrokane
Burgundy clay
Classic 1 3-piece knife block set dinnerware and
H M Pro - 1 2" Professional Brushed
ovenware from
Metal Chef's mill, plus fresh
Emile Henry's
Tellicherry gourmet peppercorns
Couleurs Collection
VAt-A We've got a crush on pepper!

WILLIAM BOUNDS LTD.
Accommodations courtesy of Hotel Monaco.

Awards reception will take place at the Starlight Room. Prizes shown are subject to change and similar items of equal value may be substituted.
© 2004 The Taunton Press

A Seattle Chef's
Relaxed Menu, p. 38
For the cornmeal rosemary cake,
order corrugated cake rounds
from Schroeder's Bakeries
(schroedersbakery.com ; 800-
850-7763).
Fal l Vegetables, p. 45
Chipotle chiles in adobo (used
in the twice-baked sweet pota
toes) are available in ethnic food
sections of well-stocked super
markets, but you can also buy a
number of brands online from
Mexgrocer.com (877-463-9476),
where prices start at $2.1 O.
Crustless Quiche, p. 50
For the appetizer-size version of
Randall Price's clafoutis, you'll
need mini muffin pans. They're
available in most kitchenware
stores, or try A Cook's Wares
(cookswares.com ; 800-9 1 5-
9788), where 24-cup nonstick
pans start at $20.
I n Season, p. 20
Prepping
potatoes Winning ReCipes, p. 54
Nancy Wiese's goat cheese
You can find seeds for Florence
(bulb) fennel in seed catalogs and
in many garden centers as well.
Potatoes are such a ver souffle recipe calls for 9- to
Good mail-order seed sources
satile vegetable for Thanksgiving that you're 1 O-ounce individual souffle
include The Cook's Garden
likely to find them on most holiday tables, dishes. Visit Cooking.com (800-
(800-457-9703; cooksgarden.
and several tools can make preparing 663-8 8 1 0), which carries a set
com), John Scheepers Kitchen
your potato side dishes easier. of four 1 O-ounce souffle dishes
Garden Seeds (860-567-6086 ;
A range of potato mashers in vari for $1 3.95, as well as individual
kitchengardenseeds.com), and
ous shapes and sizes is available Apilco extra-high 9-ounce dishes
Stokes Seeds (800-396-9238;
at Amazon.com (from $2.99). for $1 3.50 each.
stokeseeds.com) .
We're especially fond of
Thai Chicken Soup, p. 60
traditional wire mashers From Our Test Kitchen, p. 74
Stock up on ingredients for Thai
like the ones above. AII For large, heavy-duty roasting
chicken soup at Temple of Thai
Clad's food mill (left) is very pans, visit Cooking.com (800-
(templeofthai.com), where you'll
sturdy, comes apart easily, 663-88 1 0), or Sur La Table (800-
find fresh galangal ($3.89 for
and purees thoroughly and 243-0852; surlatable.com), both
3.5 ounces), lemongrass ($2.99
efficiently. It sells for $99.99 at of which carry a range of brands.
for 8 ounces), and wild (kaffir) lime
Chef's Catalog (800-884-2433; Sur La Table also sells a stovetop
leaves ($3.79 for about 20).
chefscatalog.com) . pepper roaster for $1 4.99.
90 FINE COOKING Photos: top left, Amy Albert; a l l others, Scott Phillips
For more information from our advertisers, see the ad index on page 87. cook's market
BEYOND For the Finest in Cbinfl, Crystal,
Silver & Collectibles
Shhh ...
PA1&S
POTS Culinary Supplies
tel. 209-952- 1 966
Old & New • Buy & Sell
10 Million Pieces
They don't want
you to know!
183,000 Patterns
. .... .... beyondpotsandpans.com
�..... Call for FREE lists $109 WhV Pav Retail;J;J;J Log On To:
$89
of each of your patterns. FACTORY DIRECT
1-800-REPIACE RESTAURANT SUPPLY
Sold elsewhere for a whole lot more
Over 100 diffe e Chairs & Barstools to choose from
r n t
Visit our store at:
stores. ebay.com/factorydirectrestaurantsupply
The Clever Cook

A kitchenware store for t h e home chef
If you
you' likeCalifornia
ll love Californiaolive
wine,oil.
Olio Olinda Olivecom
www.olioolinda. Oil
Training, Supporting Representing &
WE'VE GOT THE KNOW-HOW Successful Personal Chefs Since
1995.
THE PLEASURE'S ALL YOURS Specialty Coffee Roasters & Fine Teas �.perso�che£comm
www.clevercook.com for the discriminating palate..... . The Inform.ation Portal to the
Petaluma Coffee & Tea Personal Chef Industry.
• 800-644-8389
wholesale & retail sales :
�Cooking with Chef John WIlson�

G (800) 929·JAVA Fax (800) 8S 1-2844
www.petalumacoffee.com
r.:; r.:;
Spain, France, and Italy
Cooking classes, excursions, accomodations & meals.
New Weekend Gounnet Getaways in Atlanta & Asheville. tsd'ecreme.com
I.BuLKFoODS.1
Virtual Museum
Call for a free brochure/visit our website. Recipes
Vintage and New Pots de Creme Sets
1-888-636-2073 *www.culinaryvacationsinc.com
EARTHSTONE
SPICES N UTS
From Metales 10 Cups ·
Pots de Creme Unusual and hard 10 408·354.8281
find cooking lools
DRIED FRUITS & INGREDIENTS

from www.polsdecremc.comand www.go unnetsleuth.com.
-- •
WOOD-FIRE OVENS
•••
andworld's
Calphalon: ©
featuring Calphalonitems
culinaryleading
specialty Cookware
manufa from
ers!the ctur
iF
Reach your best potential
THE ULTI MATE GOURMET APPLIANCE
TASTY Ar\f) HEo,LTHY COOK/1\C
fOR (I
CAll! for [ree l:rrochHrc · 80().8404915
customers in
Cook's Market.
Fine Cookings �'t£l}
�n.4
'-
www.kitchentoolsandskills.com
67 1 7 San fernando Rd Glendale CA 9 1 201 For details, call: 800.288.661 7
\\1\\\\carthstoneovcns com
1 -800-309-8940, ext. 3422.
CDbking.
• • • • • • • •
morriscookbooks.com
• Publish Your
FOR PEOPLE WHO LOVE TO COOK Cookbook
$500 $50,000
Raise to
VacMaster SVP-5
Affordable Commercial Vacuum Packaging
- Ideal for organizations, • Many options to
Only $539 KITCHENKNIVES. COM churches &
schools
• No money down;
customize
• No-Risk
•
The Web's Largest Selection of Cutlery Guarantee
�
:> PErxetveenndt F ee r
Shelf Life
r ze Burn
:> Lower �ood Costs
>Buy Food at
>4 mil I lcary DuVoltuy)'mliecrPorwicae\s'ahlc
arc Boilable and
www.arvvacmaster.com
Freezer Bags 60 Brasnds, ForofsKnchnerives ,inWuscluditnhgoff: , • 90 CALL for FREE Cookbook Kit •
OverHenckel days to pay
For (I·0055 "

free Cllt(f Og (IIul sugge."Jtctl uses,
Boker, & Kyocer800-338-6799
a 800-445-661 1 ,ext. 971 0 •
ellll 1·800·82 1 · 7849, c.<t. 1 4
F:LX 8 1 6· 7 6 1 $539 + S/II Great Prices Old Fashioned Service • • •COOKBOOKS • • •
O C T O B E R/ N oV E M B E R 2 0 0 4 91
cook's market
the . sou ,e;om'
For more information from our advertisers , see the a d index o n page 87.
Meat, HANDMADE
red meatlJEzlthythatto'seat! PIEROGI
.
www.milliespierogi.com . 1 -800-743-7641
We make our pierogi by hand lIsing the finest ingredients,
then fully cook before packaging. They arrive fresh at your
it. ... door in a rellsable foam cooler. Cabbage. potato & cheese.
Jv{.i,l,Lit' &
Bron farmer's cheese or prune fillings - pick your favorites!
.�
Mandoline
SPI CES TEAS · COFFEES PI ERO GI
s99 99
•
SPECIALTY ITEMS As Fearl/red ill The New York Times Yankee Magazine
6
one dozen pierogi per tray
thegadgetsource.com FREE 98 PAGE 6 5 $36$38.50
Box of trays
+ Box of 10 $54$60
Irays
Over 3,000 Cooking Tools! CATALOG

Kapusta trays Polish Party Pack
�
Call for S&H Z Check or Money Order
1 ·800·458·261 6 1 800 228·4276

1 29 Broadway, Chicopee Falls, MA 0 1 02 0
Rainbow Trout
(31 3) 259-6373
2521 RUSSELL ST., DETROIT, M I 48207 Lacanche
www. raf a l s p i ce c o m p a n y . c o m a serious French range for serious chefs.
Naturally delicious from the fresh,
clear waters of Cold Mountain.
Farm-Raised Fillets
Gourmet Kitchen Store
Smoked Caviar . Dip Name Brands such as: Waring®
Rainbow Burgers
&
cookware countertop appliances
SUNBURST &
accessories spare parts
lowest prices available
mom co.,LLC secure on-line ordering
wwwsunbursttrout.com 1-800-673-3051' 828-648-3010 24 frolll
ship within hrs stock
call 888-304-2922 visit us @ or

www.gourmet-kitchen-store.com
Keep your Fine Cooking
back issues looking brand new.
BeliaCopper
The Solid Copper
Heat Diffuser
Even Heating
I Simmer Plate
No Hot Spots
Excellent as a defroster plate
They Really Work!
Fresh lobster and native shellfish
shipped directly to your kitchen www.BeliaCopper.com
from the Coast of Maine_
.trentonbridgelobster.com
Ch estn uts
www 207-667-2977
Fine Cooking
Store your treasured copies of
in slipcases for easy reference again and
50 1 5 1 6 Avenue again! Bound in red and embossed in gold,
•�_iIIIi!;;;JIl�_.:.;;+-_ ... NYBrooklyn, 1 1 204
(866) 871 -4022
Fresh & Dried each case holds more than a year's worth
Fine Cooking.
of Only $8.95 ($24.95 for 3,
and Chestnut TO ORDER: Flour Canadian
$49.95 for 6).
ad itiona7l%. crCSrT.esidentsad 6%s.1. lcs tax,
Postage a n d handling
Upscale Kitchenware, CALL- 503.625.1248 FAX: 503.625.1937

IVww.laddhillchcstnuts.com
e-mail: Laddhilll@aol.com
residents please add
To place an order using your credit card,

Down-home Service!
Cookware BakewareSpecialty
Kosher GourmetFoods & Giftbaskets
Ingredients
Ladd
S H E R WHill O O D Orchards
, O RE G O N
1 ·800·888·8286.
call
and Canada call 1 -203-426-8 1 7 1 .
Outside the U.S.
92 FI E COOKING
Fine Food
WWW
.TI ENDA.COM
m Spain at Earn $500, $ 1000
$5000 or MORE
�-,..!._l-=-,_�
�,A-" ::::;-;-;,::.. .;..,
"
'\")
Cake decorating,
cookie candy, ba ing
:
�
10%?�A
supplies worldWide.
Paella Sets, Jamon, Cheeses, when you publish
your own cookbook. No paper catalog. Over
Cookbooks anci Mme.
Free Catalog - 888 4.72 1022 FREE
Call today for your
Cookbook Kit!
offyour firstorder 16,000 items: Visit us at:
www. s ugarcraft. com
. r��!. chniq�ueliterature:
cN'Freeo��kingcareer
te§.�� s f��:i
or wed ingscallr!, banq800-362-7070
�!�
!Luets, parties. � i
:- Phone ! A "§ II
.!l!iJ�. •
A�iSc;h;olalel of Gourmet Cooking/Catering, DZippt. CGGP104.JI

Italian, Thai,
1- 800 -227-7282
French,
The Institute
W\\\\ (tu)kl)(u)kpubIISht'IS {(fill
career training, e
bread baking,
PCDI, 4-------
30Tech. Pky., Norcros , GA30 92 www.pcdLedu
•
§l?HC1E§
of Culinary IducatiDn ._ -
q
hors d' oeuvres,
wine, restaurant
/') e_ bv�
50 WEST 23RD STREET
management
one week courses,
NEW YORK, NY 10010 Complete Online Ordering at www.sfherb.com �(tO]) )
� �� L... Ej.J
iwww. eaSYCOOki n . com
spices, cheese,
tapas and more!
2 1 2.847.0700
iceculinary.com
§AN lF cx§co • Co.
lRAN
14th St., Son Francisco,
250
HEllrn
CA 9 4 1 0 3 800-227-4530
�NAINI.
Visit us on the web at
y.
for a world of
cooking accessories Italy'S Original
FR1EE-800
CATALOG Co . #Cln� • Toll
and more.
Free (877) 392-6656 � Wood-Fired Oven
Toll Free: 888 887-7206 www.mugnalni.com
71 4 -8226
et's Pan try Fl'cncb ButteI' Disb
Madeira Harvest ."i;::n kC:CI}�
.'• 'n...'... . ...ol·ld·Nhd.."ithullt
SMALL ADS YIELD BIG RETURNS 10
From Freezer Oven to Table
We carry the complete liLle I l i;.::h cluali(\

for advertisers featured in the
Cook's Market section

in all five colors. Visil liS on
the web or in our shop.
See why Gounnel Magazine
lu.·(·I·. IIt"(mIl S.t)ut'nlu •...
of Fine Cooking. us. . . A
called .
Culinary Shop"
Stylish
Call 1 -800-309-8940, ext. 3422

905 1-800-5Erwi6-4n76n0a,Po. 18920
River Road -
www.agourmetspantry.com
UPTON AGA COO ers SIMPLY THE: BE:ST A LBACOR.E: T�NA,

SALMON § SMOKE:D 0YSTE:RS.
TEA IMPORTS
P eyor oj the World's Finest Teas
urv All cast iron contruction for belter
tasting food. 'I\vo sizes. Ten porcelain
Tas.te t�e vllffereVcce quallttJ "",-alzes..
Tested very in Mercury. Rich in OMEGA-31 1
low
enamel colors. Three types of fllcl.
1-800- O��e3�"b��!iJ��8f
7 garden-fresh. loose tea
yOv\.' LL LOVE C;IA.ARANTEEt>IT,
90-Cla6ssi110c Cookers
Lower
Middle;;ex, I'T Barnett. lIiII
0;602 802-223-3620
1 866 290 5651
www.catchofthesea.com
Go online for product

information
Chefs make great travel companions! �lliVA!!_J�.J!1iy_�t:�l!y Expert-led
National Center for Hospitality Studies
__
& Food Wine ToW's
Find our advertisers' web sites Napa/Sonoma

1 00% Graduate
quickly and easily on New Zealand Employment Success!
Italy
our online Advertiser Index at France
American Culinary Federation Accrediting
www.finecooki ng.com Spain Commission approved 18 month degree programs
in Culinary Arts and Baking & Pastry Arts
COoking.
Austria
&WINE
TR(\I LS www.foodandwinetrails.com
(800) 367-5348 800.844.1 354
or visit www.sullivan.edu
��:��u Earn CCP educational credits CST#10 5413-10 3101 Bardstown Road Louisvil e, Kentuckv 40205
•
nutrition information
Recipe Page Galories Protein Garb Fats (g) Ghol. Sodium Fiber Notes
(analysis per serving) total from fat (g) (g) total sat mono poly (mg) (mg) (g)
Letters 14
Goat Cheese Marinated with Lemon & Herbs 160 1 40 15 15 400 0 based on 6 servings, wlo crostini
In Sea son 20
Braised Fennel with Pastis 1 40 70 15 400 based on 4 servings
T h a n k s g i v i n g on the Side lOE

Whipped Yukon Gold Potatoes with Horseradish 280 150 4 29 16 10 5 1 50 1 210 2 based on 1 2 servings
Mashed Potatoes with Olive Oil & Parsley 440 250 5 40 28 4 21 3 0 310 3 based on 8 servings
Molasses Mashed Sweet Potatoes 250 80 3 42 9 6 2 0 25 190 6 based on 8 servings
Green Beans with Toasted Slivered Almonds 150 1 20 3 7 13 6 5 2 25 290 3 based on 8 servings
Long-Cooked Green Beans with Oregano 100 70 2 9 7 1 5 1 0 580 3 based on 8 servings
Orange-Dijon Green Beans 90 50 1 8 6 4 2 0 15 350 3 based on 8 servings
Butternut Squash Gratin with Onion & Sage 290 150 4 34 17 9 6 1 45 640 8 based on 6 servings
Pearl Onion Gratin with Parmesan, Savory & Thyme 240 150 5 19 17 10 5 1 55 380 2 based on 8 servings
Sweet Potato & Leek Gratin 560 380 8 38 43 24 15 3 1 25 730 4 based on 6 servings
Cranberry-Pear Salsa 90 10 0 21 1 .5 0 1 0.5 0 25 2 per VI cup

Cranberry-Orange Relish with Ginger 25 0 0 7 0 0 0 0 0 50 1 per VI cup
Cranberry Citrus Compote 200 0 0 51 0 0 0 0 0 0 3 per Y2 cup
Classic Bread Dressing 180 80 5 24 9 5 3 1 20 410 3 based on 1 2 servings
Cornbread Pecan Dressing 450 310 12 29 35 8 17 8 130 690 6 based on 1 2 servings
Italian Bread & Sausage Dressing 280 100 11 30 11 3 7 1 10 700 2 based on 1 2 servings
Seattle Chef's Relaxed M e n u 3 8

Homemade Bianco with Icy Grapes 170 0 1 12 0 0 0 0 0 10 1 based on 8 servings
"Last of the Yakima Peppers" Peperonata 270 230 3 10 25 3 18 3 0 670 5 based on 8 servings, wlo crackers
Mustard-Crusted Roast Chickens 560 320 52 4 35 9 17 7 165 1710 0 based on 8 servings
Warm Green Bean, Pancetta & Tomato Salad with Parmesan 350 260 9 14 29 12 14 3 30 750 4 based on 8 servings
Cornmeal Rosemary Cake with Pine Nuts & Orange Glaze 530 210 7 74 24 15 6 3 140 140 2 based on 10 servings
Fa l l Vegeta bles 45
Cider-Glazed Turnips &
Apples with Sage Bacon & 190 110 2 18 13 6 5 1 20 760 3 based on 6 servings
&
Parsnip Pancakes with Sour Cream Caramelized Onions 320 170 5 34 19 6 11 1 70 620 6 based on 4 servings
Creamy Brussels Sprout Gratin 380 240 9 28 27 17 8 1 90 550 5 based on 6 servings
Twice-Baked Sweet Potatoes with Chipotle Chile 310 90 4 53 10 6 3 0 25 660 7 based on 4 servings
Crustless Quiche 50
Shallot, Bacon & Sun-Dried Tomato Clafoutis 590 470 17 15 52 28 18 270 1020 0 based on 6 servings
Red Bell Pepper, Thyme & Goat Cheese Clafoutis 330 250 10 11 28 16 9 220 650 1 based on 6 servings
Ham, Mushroom & Chive Clafoutis 350 250 14 11 28 14 9 235 910 0 based on 6 servings
W i n n i ng Recipes 54
Rib-Eye Steak Sandwiches 710 400 50 23 45 21 20 4 220 1150 2 based on 4 servings, 5-oz. steaks
Goat Cheese Souffle with Red Peppers & Chanterelles 420 340 12 9 38 21 15 2 240 760 1 based on 6 servings
Mediterranean Beef Wraps with Roasted Red Peppers 650 320 40 41 35 9 22 4 55 1 200 3 based on 8 servings
Stuffed Filet Mignon with Mushroom-Gorgonzola Grits 960 510 67 47 57 33 16 8 195 2380 4 based on 4 servings
Savory Mediterranean Baklava 840 540 24 52 60 35 20 4 190 1 410 3 based on 8 servings
Warm Steak Salad with Rosemary Flatbread 840 330 49 75 37 16 18 3 105 2550 10 based on 6 servings
Thai C h i c ke n Soup 60
Chicken Coconut Soup 350 210 16 25 23 19 25 770 based on 4 servings
Apple Desserts 62
Apple Cranberry Crisp 520 190 3 86 21 9 8 35 1 20 based on 8 servings
Ginger Apple Crumb Pie 410 140 3 67 16 9 5 35 80 based on 12 servings
Moist Apple-Walnut Cake 380 160 5 51 18 9 4 65 200 based on 16 servings
Almond Cheesecake Apple Bars 210 90 3 30 10 4 4 35 90 based on 16 servings
From O u r Test Kitch e n 74

Brined Roast Turkey with Sage Butter Rub 650 340 73 0 37 13 15 9 260 360 0 based on 14 servings
Mushroom Gravy 90 50 4 4 6 1 2 3 20 90 1 per VI cup
Honey-Spice Apple Butter 50 0 0 13 0 0 0 0 0 15 1 per tablespoon
Quick & Delicious 94C

64 24 10 10 3 110 1010 5 based on 4 servings
Spiced Lamb Pitas with Fresh Mango Salsa 610 220 36
Lemon Chicken Soup with Spinach & Dill 230 100 18 14 11 3 6 2 50 710 2 based on 6 servings
Broiled Tex-Mex Drumsticks with Avocado & Tomato Salad 380 230 30 9 25 6 15 4 95 980 5 based on 4 servings
Butternut Squash Ravioli with Rosemary Oil 300 1 40 7 33 15 4 9 1 20 550 2 based on 6 servings
Greek-Style Shrimp Salad 330 210 23 7 23 6 15 2 185 710 2 based on 4 servings
Sausage, Potato & Apple Saute 420 150 23 47 17 5 10 1 35 1 380 5 based on 4 servings
Pan-Fried Scallops with Malt Vinegar Dipping Sauce 210 100 18 10 11 1 5 5 65 450 0 based on 6 servings
The nutritional analyses have been calculated by a registered dietitian calculations. Optional ingredients and those listed without a specific quantity of salt and pepper aren't specified, the analysis is based
at The Food Consulting Company of Del Mar, California. When a recipe

gives a choice of i ngredients, the first choice is the one used in the
quantity are not included. When a range of ingredient amounts or
servings is given, the smaller amount or portion is used. When the

on
Va V4 teaspoon salt and
teaspoon salt and V1V6a teaspoon pepper per serving for entrees, and
teaspoon pepper per serving for side dishes.
94 FINE COOKI G
f}dd
(0-/ra %�/N
cd'f}/fw-
�u BRIX
AI RiILBIOS
QJcu((/.'-.kUik ((II//J((kUIIXf/
S (IlJO Fruttato i ( 1I MAKI'AIIo'
Olio 100% ITALIAN �llmJt' .9It1t'01 8 rYAlNlI(I
a,100%!()H'J)/";fJITALIAN
ItHH lJIIHbAlN,f BIOLOGIC;
l lL ,uiz:,.
avergine EXTRA VIRGIN
EXTRA VIRGIN Olio
(.Ii Oliva , OLIVE OIL
10 @ O LIVE
OIL (( \Ira Ver!line
'(Novello" {U r// Oh"a
You only get to make d i n ner once a day. Make it with Monini Originale,
#1 Extra Virgin Olive Oil*, or explore our u n ique regional, seasonal
Italy' s
and organic varieties to discover what a d ifference the right olive oil makes
to every dish. Go to
www . monini.com/usa for recipes and more.
From the heart of Italy. From the heart of the

ft1,on£n£famCly.
'Originale only. Source: 2003 Dec.
IRI
en
-c
o
"Soil nutrients, eleva tion ... there 's
an intangible something that
o
makes potatoes grown in the
Catskill Mountains taste so good,"
say the Janiszewskis.
'I-
C
CO
-
(J)
-
the best-tasting
At harvest time, Joan and John Janiszewski enlist their kids,
Neal, Anna, and Stefan, to help dig potatoes.
J
oan and John Janiszewski can Peruvian fingerlings are a strik
barely keep up with the de ing and delicious way to dress up
mand for the organic potatoes a potato salad, while Yukon Golds
from their farm in upstate N ew are great mashers.
York, part of Catskill Family Farms, Growing potatoes without herbi
a small grower's cooperative in New cides or pesticides is hard work:
York State's Catskill Mountains. Managing weeds through cultiva
The potatoes, sold to restaurants tion is time-consuming, avoiding
and at local farmers' markets and blight means planting earlier than
greenmarkets, are prized for their usual and rotating crops more often,
thin skin, creamy texture, and con and constant vigilance is required to
centrated flavor. French fingerlings keep potato beetles at bay. So why
(the family's favorite ) are good in go through the hardship? "Putting
any dish, but especially hash browns toxins in the land scares the hell out
and home fries, while Austrian of me, " says John Janiszewski. " It's
C rescents are particularly tasty worth the extra work."
roasted or grilled, they say. Purple -AmyAlbert, senior editor Clockwise from bottom left: Purple Peruvians, Austrian
Crescents, Yukon Golds, and French fingerlings.
For more information, see p. 90.

,I ,
II • •
1I
C O M P I L E D BY J OA N N E M cA L L I S T E R S M ART
O
f course there will be turkey at your Thanks
g iving table-the fun part is fi guri n g out
what else to s erve . I f you want to make this
year's Thanks g iv i n g d i n n e r j ust a little bit
different, add a new side dish to your menu.
Choose from amon g these fifteen recipes , in
cludin g colorful green beans and full-flavored
gratins that you can make ahead or ask some
one to bring . Mix and match the recipes your
self or look to the menus below for inspiration.
Give you r side dis hes a region a l spin
.-
•
OCTOBER/NoVEMBER 2 0 0 4 lOE
Wh ipped Yukon Mashed Potatoes with
Gold Potatoes Ol ive Oil &
Parsley
with Horseradish Serves eight.
Serves ten to twelve.
4 lb. Yukon Gold potatoes,
4 lb. Yukon Gold potatoes peeled and cut into 2·i nch
2 Tbs. kosher salt cubes Molasses Mashed
12 Tbs. u nsa lted butter 2 Tbs. kosher salt; more for Sweet Potatoes
1 % cups light cream seasoning Serves eight.
Ground white pepper to taste 1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
4 med i u m sweet potatoes
1f2cup prepared horseradish Freshly ground black pepper
(2 l b. tota l), peeled and cut
to taste
into l -inch chu n ks
Peel and quarter the potatoes 1.12 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf
and put them in a large pot. pa rsley
8 small carrots (1 lb. total),
peeled and cut into 1 -inch
Cover with cold water and add ch u nks
1 Tbs. salt. Bring to boil, reduce Put a large pot of cold water
4 medium parsnips (1 lb. tota l),
to a gentle boil, and cook u ntil on high heat. Add the potatoes
peeled a nd cut into l -inch
easily pierced with a fork, about and 2 Tbs. salt and bring to a ch u n ks
20 minutes. Drain the potatoes. boil. Boil just until a skewer or Kosher salt
In an electric stand mixer with knife can easily penetrate the 4 Tbs. u nsalted butter
the whisk attachment or with center of the potatoes, 20 to % cup sour cream
an electric hand mixer, whip the 3 0 minutes. 1.14
cup molasses
potatoes until smooth, about When the potatoes are done, 1 Tbs. finely grated fresh g i nger
1 minute; add the butter and d raw off about 1 cup of the cook 1f2cup half-and-half
ing liquid; set aside. Drain the Freshly grou nd black pepper
mix u ntil melted and combined
' potatoes and return them to the
about 30 seconds. Add the
pot in which they were cooked. In a large saucepan, combine
cream, 1 Tbs. salt, and white the sweet potatoes, carrots, and
pepper to taste. Starting on low Mash them with a potato masher.
With a wooden spoon, stir in parsn ips; cover with cold water.
and gradually increasing the
the ol ive oil. Add some of the Bring to a boil, add 1 Tbs. salt,
speed to prevent splattering,
and simmer until tender, 1 5 to
whip until smooth and creamy, 20 minutes. Drain and return
about 2 m inutes, scraping down
to the saucepan. Set the pan
the sides of the bowl frequently.
over low heat, uncovered, and
Alternatively, use a food mill to
let the vegetables dry in the pan
puree the potatoes and then
for about 2 minutes, shaking
beat in the remaining ingredients
the pan occasionally so they
by hand. Fold in the horseradish don't stick. Pass the vegetables
and combine well.
through a food mill or mash them
-Michael Brisson,
by hand, if you prefer. Stir in the
Fine Cooking #29 butter, sour cream ' molasses
grated ginger, and half-and·h lf
(if you're preparing the pota-
�
toes ahead, save 2 Tbs. of the
reserved cooking liquid u ntil you half-and-half for reheating) . Add
reach the consistency you like. 1/2 tsp. salt and pepper to taste,
Be sure to Season generously with salt and adjust the seasonings, and serve.
whip potatoes several grinds of black pepper. -Karen & Ben Barker,
Just before serving, check the Fine Cooking #47
only until consistency of the potatoes and

add a little more of the reserved
smooth, and cooking liquid if they need
never use a loosening. Mix in the parsley.
Taste and adjust the seasonings.
food processor -Josh Eisen,
to mash them Fine Cooking #25
-they'll get
gummy.
FI E COOKING Photos: Scott Phillips

Corn b read Pecan Ital i a n Bread &
Dressing Sausage Dressing
Serves ten to twelve. Serves eight t o twelve.
4 Tbs. u nsalted butter 1 % lb. slightly stale Ita lian bread,
5 sl ices bacon, cut crosswise l i ke ciabatta, cut into 1f2- to
into %-inch pieces %-inch cubes (to yield a bout
1 % cups chopped onion 12 cups)
1 1f2 cups chopped celery Va cup olive oil
(including i n ner leaves) 1 lb. bulk sweet Ita l i a n sausage
% cup finely chopped shallots (or stuffed sausage, casings
1 Tbs. dried sage leaves removed)
2 tsp. dried thyme 2 cups %-inch d i ced yellow
Kosher sa lt and freshly ground onions
Classic Bread
black pepper to taste 1 cup %-inch d i ced celery
Dressing
3 cups (1 0 oz.) pecans, toasted 4 cloves ga rlic, finely chopped
Serves ten to twelve. and coarsely chopped 2 tsp. fresh thyme leaves
1 - lb. loaf good-quality white 2 lb. cornbread, coarsely (or 1 % tsp. dried)
bread or baguette, cut into crumbled (to yield about 1 1/2 tsp. dried sage leaves
1f2- i nch cubes (1 0 to 1 2 cups) 6 cups l ightly packed) 1 tsp. kosher salt
8 Tbs. unsa lted butter 1 % cups homemade or low-salt % tsp. freshly ground black
3 cups %-inch d i ced onion chicken broth pepper
2 cups chopped celery (including 3 large eggs, beaten 1 cup sweet M a rsala wine
i n ner leaves)
1 clove ga rlic, finely chopped Heat the oven to 350°F. Grease Heat the oven to 350°F. Oil a
1 % Tbs. chopped fresh sage a 9x1 3-inch baking dish. Melt 9x1 3-inch (3-qt.) baking d ish.
(or 1 1/2 tsp. dried) the butter in a 1 O-inch saute Pile the bread cubes into a very
1 1f2 Tbs. chopped fresh thyme pan over medium heat. Add the large bowl and set aside. Set a
(or 1 1f2 tsp. dried) bacon and brown slowly until 1 O-inch saute pan over medium
1 tsp. celery seeds crisp, 8 to 1 0 m i n utes. With heat and add the olive oil and
Pinch grated n utmeg a slotted spoon, transfer the sausage. Cook, breaking u p the
Pinch ground cloves bacon to paper towels to drain ; sausage with a wooden spoon
1 tsp. kosher salt leave the fat and caramelized 1/2-
or spatula into to 1 -inch bits,
% tsp. freshly g round black
bits in the skil let. Add the onion, until browned on all sides, 5 to
pepper
celery, shallots, sage, and thyme; 7 minutes. With a slotted spoon,
2 cups homemade or low-salt
sprinkle with salt and cook over transfer the sausage to the bowl
chicken broth
medium heat, stirring often, until of cubed bread. Raise the heat
Put the bread cubes on a the vegetables are just tender, u nder the pan to medium high,
rimmed baking sheet and either add the on ions, celery, and garlic,
leave them on the counter to and saute u ntil the onions are
dry overn ight or bake in a 2 75°F translucent and just beginning
oven, tossing occasionally, until to brown, 8 to 1 0 minutes. Stir
d ry but not golden, 30 to 35 min in the thyme, sage, salt, and
utes. In a 1 2-inch skillet over pepper, cook for 1 minute, and
medium heat, melt half the butter. then add the mixture to the
Add the onion, celery, garlic, cubed bread.
sage, thyme, celery seeds, n ut With the pan off the heat,
meg, cloves, and salt. Cover and carefully pour in the Marsala.
cook, stirring occasionally, until Keep your face away from the
the onion is soft, about 1 0 min pan as the wine may sputter. Set
utes. Set aside to let cool. the pan over medium-high heat
Heat the oven to 350°F. In and bring the liquid to a boil, stir Slightly stale
a large bowl, toss the sauteed 1 0 to 1 5 m inutes. In a large bowl, ring to scrape up any flavorful
vegetables with the bread; toss the vegetables, pecans, bits in the pan. Boil for 2 minutes bread is ideal
season with pepper. Melt the bacon, and cornbread. Season and then add the Marsala to the for dressing,
remaining butter. Brush the inside to taste with salt and pepper. bread mixture; stir u ntil well com
of a 3-qt. baking dish with some Whisk together the broth and bined. Taste and add salt and so leave bread
eggs; stir into the dressing and pepper if needed. Spread the
of the butter. Pour the remaining
mix until well combined. Spread mixture in the baking dish, cover
on the counter
butter, along with the broth, over
the dressing; toss well . Spread the mixture in the baking dish, tightly with foil, and bake for overnight or
in the baking d ish and cover with cover tightly with foil, and bake 20 minutes. Remove the foil and
foil . Bake until heated through, for 20 minutes. U ncover and continue to bake until the top bake cubes in a
20 m inutes. U ncover and con continue to bake until the top is lightly browned and crisped, low oven until
tinue to bake until the top is crisp is lightly browned and crisp, about 1 5 min utes.
and golden, 20 to 30 minutes. another 20 to 2 5 minutes. - Greg A tkinson,
dry and golden.
-Molly Stevens, -Scott Peacock, Fine Cooking #35
Fine Cooking #24 Fine Cooking # 1 8

Green Bea n s
with Toasted
S l ivered Almonds
Serves eight.
6 Tbs. u nsa lted butter

2/3cup sl ivered a l monds
1 lb. fresh green beans, trimmed
4 tsp. minced garl ic (2 to
3 cloves)
1 tsp. kosher salt Lon g -Cooked G reen Orange-Dijon
Freshly g round black pepper Bea n s with Oregano G reen Bea n s
Serves six to eight. Serves eight.
Melt 4 Tbs. of the butter in a
1 2-inch skillet over medium heat. 1(4cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 1(2 lb. fresh green beans,
Add the almonds and cook, 6 cloves garlic, chopped coarsely trimmed and cut or sna pped
tossing frequently, u ntil they're Leaves from 6 large sprigs fresh in h a lf crosswise (not
oregano (sca nt 114
cup) lengthwise)
light brown and toasted, 3 to
For added color, 4 minutes. Transfer them with 1% lb. (preferably matu re) green 1(4cup fresh orange j u ice (from
a slotted spoon to a plate lined beans, trimmed 1

about sma l l orange)
substitute yellow 2 tsp. kosher salt 2 Tbs. Dijon mustard
with paper towels.
Freshly g round black pepper 2 tsp. light brown sugar
wax beans for Add the green beans, garlic,
3 Tbs. fresh lemon j u ice 4 Tbs. u nsalted butter
and salt to the pan. Toss to 1 medium red onion (8 to
some of the coat the beans with the residual
10
oz.),
Heat the ol ive oil in a large, very thinly sliced
green beans . butter. Add 1 cup water and heavy-based pot (like an 8-qt. 1 tsp. l ightly chopped fresh
simmer gently, tossing occasion Dutch oven) over medium heat. thyme
ally, until the beans are fork Add the garlic and oregano and 1 tsp. kosher salt; more to taste
tender and fully cooked (taste cook, stirring, until fragrant and Freshly ground black pepper
one to check), 1 5 to 20 minutes. the garlic is softened but not
If the water evaporates before Bring a large pot of water to
browned, about 2 minutes. Put
the beans are cooked, add more a boil over high heat. Add the
the beans in the pot, add the
as needed, about 1f4
cup at a beans and cook u ntil crisp
salt, and grind a little pepper
time. By the time the beans are tender, 4 to 5 minutes. Drain in
over all. Add the lemon juice
cooked, the liquid should be re a colander, rinse with cold water
and 1/2cup water and bring to
to stop the cooking, and drain
duced to about 1f4 cup or less; if a boil. Immediately reduce to
well . (This step may be done
there's too much liquid, increase a simmer, cover the pot, and
the heat to a boil and let it re several hours ahead ; refriger
cook the beans for 20 minutes.
duce briefly. Add the remaining ate the beans if not using within
Remove the cover and simmer
2 Tbs. butter and toss to coat 2 hours.)
the beans gently over medium
the beans and emulsify with the In a small measuring cup,
high heat u ntil nearly all the liquid
liquid. Season to taste with salt whisk together the orange j u ice,
in the pot has evaporated, about
and pepper. Scatter the slivered mustard, and brown sugar. In
30 minutes. During this time,
almonds over beans on a serving a 1 0- to 1 2-inch nonstick skil-
occasionally turn the beans over
platter or over each serving. let, melt the butter over medium
upon themselves with tongs to
heat. Add the red onion and
-Eve Felder, mix them and coat them with the
toss to coat. Turn the heat to
Fine Cooking #53 reducing juices. Let cool briefly
medium high and saute, stirring
before serving.
often, until the onions are very
-Paul Bertolli,
shrunken and many are browned,
Fine Cooking # 1 7
8 to 1 0 minutes. Add the beans,
thyme, salt, and a few grinds of
pepper. Add the mustard mix
�.�reen
ture, immediately turn the heat to
medium low (the sauce will begin
to thicken), and stir vigorously (or
use tongs) to toss and combine
Beans
the beans with the sauce. Con
tinue cooking to heat the beans
through and to thoroughly coat
them, 1 to 2 minutes. Season to
taste with more salt and pepper.
- Susie Middleton,
Fine Cooking #45
Butternut Squash Pearl O n ion Grati n
G ratin with Onion with Parmesan,
& Sage Savory &
Thyme
Serves four to six. Serves eight.
To make butternut squash easier 2 lb. frozen pearl onions, thawed

to handle, cut off the neck, peel 1 cup heavy cream
it, and cut it into pieces to use in 3 4-i nch sprigs fresh thyme
this gratin. Reserve the bottom of Kosher salt and freshly ground
black pepper
Sweet Potato &
the squash, which contains the Leek Gratin
3 Tbs. u nsa lted butter, melted
seed cavity, for roasting. Serves six.
1 cup coarse fresh breadcrumbs
1 Tbs. olive oil % cup freshly, finely grated 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
1 Tbs. unsa lted butter Pa rmigiano Reggiano 2 Tbs. olive oil
4 cups 1 -i n ch d i ced yellow 1f2 tsp. dried savory leaves, 6 oz. pa ncetta, cut i n 1f4-inch d i ce
onions crumbled 2 large leeks (1 lb. tota l),
3 Tbs. chopped fresh sage (or trimmed, ha lved lengthwise,
1 Tbs. dried)
Heat the oven to 4 00°F. Put the rinsed well, a nd sl iced
3 lb. butternut squash, peeled,
onions and % cup water in a crosswise % inch thick
seeded, a nd cut into V2-inch large saucepan over high heat. % cup minced garlic
cubes (about 7 to cups)8 Stir and separate the onions with 2 cups heavy cream
2 cloves garlic, minced a fork as they heat. When the 3 Tbs. fresh thyme leaves
Kosher salt and freshly g round water boils, reduce the heat to Kosher salt and freshly ground
black pepper medium, cover, and simmer for black pepper
V2 cup plus 2 Tbs. heavy cream, 5 minutes. Drain well and pat d ry. 2 med i u m sweet potatoes
heated u ntil warm Combine the cream, thyme, (1 lb. tota l), peeled
1 cup fresh breadcrumbs and 112 tsp. salt in a small sauce 3 med i u m russet potatoes
1 1f2 Tbs. melted unsa lted butter pan over medium-high heat. (1 % lb. tota l), peeled
When the cream comes to a
Heat the oven to 350°F. Lightly In a medium saucepan, heat the
boil, reduce the heat to a simmer
butter a shallow 8x1 1 -i nch butter and oil over medium heat.
and cook for 5 minutes, stirring
gratin dish. Add the pancetta and cook, stir
occasionally.
In a 1 2-inch skillet, heat ring occasionally, u ntil golden,
Meanwhile, brush a shallow
the 1 Tbs. butter and oil over about 9 minutes. Transfer with a
2-qt. gratin or baking dish with
medium-low heat. Add the on slotted spoon to paper towels.
1 Tbs. of the butter. In a small
ions and sage, cover, and cook, Put the leeks and garl ic in the
bowl, toss the breadcrumbs, Par
stirring occasionally, while you pan, cover, turn the heat to low,
migiano, savory, the remaining
prepare the squash. and cook, stirring occasionally,
Put the squash in a steaming
2 Tbs. melted butter, 112tsp. salt,
u ntil the leeks are softened but
and several grinds of pepper.
basket and set over simmer- not browned, about 5 minutes.
Spread the onions in the
ing water. Cover and let steam Add the cream, bring to a boil,
When preparing u ntil the squash is tender, about
baking dish. Pick out and d iscard
reduce the heat, and simmer un
gratins , cut 1 0 minutes. Put the squash in covered for 5 minutes. Stir in the
the prepared dish with the garlic pancetta, thyme, 1 tsp. salt, and
your vegetables and % tsp. salt. Toss gently to pepper to taste; set aside.
combine. Heat the oven to 350°F. Butter
uniformly to Continue to cook the onions, a 2-qt. casserole dish. Slice the
ensure that they stirring frequently once they be sweet potatoes and russet pota
cook evenly.
gin to color, u ntil they're very soft Va V4
toes to inch thick. Arrange
and brown, 30 to 45 minutes to one overlapping layer of russets
tal. Season with salt and pepper on the bottom of the casserole.
and add them to the gratin dish, Season lightly with salt and pep
mixing them with the squash. per; spoon 2 Tbs. of the leek
Pour the warm cream over the cream evenly over the potatoes.
vegetables. Toss the bread Add a layer of sweet potatoes,
the thyme sprigs from the cream.
crumbs with the 1 112 Tbs. melted
Pour the cream over the onions
season lightly, and spoon on an
butter and a large pinch of salt; other 2 Tbs. of the leek cream. Re
and scatter the bread crumbs on
sprinkle the crumbs evenly over peat with the remaining potatoes
top. Bake u ntil the breadcrumbs
the gratin. Bake until the top is until all are used. Press firmly on
are deep golden brown and
lightly browned and the cream is the potatoes; drizzle the remaining
the cream is bubbling furiously
bubbling, about 40 minutes. leek cream over them. Bake until
around the edges, about 30 min
- Deborah Madison, the top is golden and the potatoes
utes. Let rest for 1 0 minutes
Fine Cooking # 1 7 in the center feel tender when
before serving.
pierced with a fork, 50 to 60 min
-Jennifer Armentrout,
utes. Let rest in a warm place for
test kitchen manager 1 5 minutes before serving.
-Karen & Ben Barker,
Fine Cooking #47

Cra n berry-Pear S a l sa Cra n berry-Ora nge
Yields 3 cups. Re l i sh with G i nger
Yields 3 cups.
1 2 oz. fresh cranberries, picked
over a nd stemmed 1 2 oz. fresh cranberries, picked
1 % cups peeled, cored, and over and stemmed
coarsely chopped pears 1 small navel orange, including
(about 2 med i u m or 1 large the peel, cut into eighths
pear) Generous Va cup roughly
% cup d i ced green bell pepper chopped crysta l l ized g i nger
% cup honey 1 Tbs. granu lated sugar
% cup granu lated sugar % tsp. kosher salt
1 fresh serrano chile, cored, Cra n berry Citrus
seeded, and mi nced In a food processor, combine the
Com pote
1 tsp. finely grated orange zest cranberries, orange, crystallized
Yields 5 cups.
2 Tbs. fresh orange ju ice ginger, sugar, and salt. Process
1 Tbs. canola oil until coarsely ground, stopping 24 oz. fresh cran berries, picked
Pinch sa lt once or twice to scrape down over a nd stemmed
the sides of the bowl. Transfer to Finely grated zest of 1 lemon
Coarsely chop the cranberries (or Finely grated zest of 1 orange
a serving bowl, cover, and refrig
pulse them in a food processor 2 shallots, finely chopped
erate until ready to serve.
until coarsely chopped). Combine (about % cup)
-Diane Morgan,
all the ingredients in a large bowl 2 cups g ra n u l ated sugar
Fine Cooking #53 '/2cup orange j u ice
and toss gently. Taste and adjust
the seasonings. Y2 cup thi nly sliced scall ions
Before using -Abigail Johnson Dodge,
(3 la rge)
cranberries , Fine Cooking # 1 8

U p to o n e week a h e a d : Heat
the oven to 350°F. Combine the
pick them over cranberries, lemon zest, orange
for stems and zest, shallots, and sugar in a
bowl and mix thoroughly. Turn
shriveled berries . into a 3-qt. glass baking dish and
drizzle the orange j uice over the
Any stray white
cranberry mixture. Bake, stirring
cranberries are occasionally, until the sugar is
d issolved and a few berries have
fine to leave in popped open, about 30 m inutes.
they're swe eter Remove from the oven, let cool
thoroughly (the pectin in the
than red one s . excess liquid will firm up when
cool), cover, and refrigerate.
On the day of servi n g : Remove

the compote from the refrigera
Cran erry
tor early in the day to bring it to
room temperature. Fold in the
sliced scallions and scrape into
a serving bowl.
Sauces
-Michael Brisson,
Fine Cooking #29
en
::s
o o
u
.-
CI)
.-
-
-c BY PAM A N D E R S O N
00
:::( Bridging
-o � .;wnmer
:J lX.. autumn
-
Greek-Style Shrimp Salad
Serves four. per. Arrange the shrimp in a
IT
single layer on a foil-covered
1 lb. large (31 -40 count) rimmed baking sheet. Broil
These recipes offer the best of
shrimp, peeled and
the shrimp until they're pink
summer and fall. A light, Greek deveined
on the outside and opaque in
5 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
style shrimp salad and a dish of the center, 3 to 4 minutes.
Kosher salt and freshly
Mix the tomatoes, feta,
spiced drumsticks with zesty grou n d black pepper
1 heaping cup seeded a nd
olives, capers, oregano,
o avocado and tomato salad sat medium-diced plum

tomatoes
2 Tbs. of the ol ive oil, 2 tsp.
of the vinegar, and 1 tsp. of
isfy in the warmer months, while the lemon juice in a medium
2 V2 oz. (V2 cup) crumbled feta
heartier fare like ravioli stuffed cheese bowl. Add the shrimp; toss
V4 cup pitted and coarsely lightly to combine.
with butternut squash and a chopped Kalamata or In a small bowl, use a fork
sausage hash with potatoes and other black ol ives to whisk together the remain
1 Tbs. drai ned and rinsed ing 2 Tbs. oil, 2 tsp. vinegar,
apples whet your appetite for capers (coarsely chopped and 1 tsp. lemon juice. Toss
if large) the greens in a large bowl
fall. Whatever the weather, these
1 tsp. dried oregano
with the vinaigrette. Season
recipes are quick to prepare, so 4 tsp. red-wine vinegar
generously with salt and
2 tsp. fresh lemon ju ice
they work for a family meal or a pepper and toss again. Divide
7 oz. (8 to cups lightly
9
packed) baby greens,
the greens among four large
casual supper with friends. plates. Top each portion of
washed and spun dry
greens with equal amounts of
Position an oven rack on the shrimp m ixture and serve.
the highest rung (4 inches
from the element) and heat
the broiler to high. Pat the
shrimp completely d ry with
paper towels. In a medium
bowl, toss the shrimp with
1 Tbs. of the oil,1f4tsp. salt,
and several grinds of pep-
OCTOBER/NoVEMBER 2 0 0 4 94C
o
Broiled Tex-Mex Drumsticks Spiced Lamb Pitas with

with Avocado & Tomato Salad Fresh Mango Salsa
Serves four. and a few grinds o f pepper; Serves four. Remove from the heat and
toss again to coat evenly. keep warm.
8 chicken drumsticks (about Arrange the drumsticks on a 1 V2 tsp. ground cumin Lightly toast the pita
2 % lb. tota l) 1 V2 tsp. g round ginger
wire rack set over a foil-lined breads on a baking sheet
2 Tbs. extra -virg i n olive oil 112 tsp. ground cinnamon
rimmed baking sheet. Broil in the oven, 6 to 8 minutes,
2 tsp. ground cumin 1 112 lb. ground lamb
the chicken in the center of flipping once. Meanwhile,
2 tsp. chi l i powder 1 large red onion, cut into
the oven, turning once after add the remaining V3 cup
o
1 tsp. granu lated sugar sma l l dice
Kosher salt and freshly 1 0 min utes, until fully cooked Kosher salt a nd freshly onion and 2 Tbs. chutney, the
ground black pepper and browned in spots, about ground black pepper mango, cilantro, l ime juice,
3f4cup quartered grape or 20 minutes total. V2 cup plus 2 Tbs. Major Grey and a pinch of salt to the
cherry tomatoes While the chicken cooks, style ma ngo chutney reserved spices to make a
1 medium avocado, cut into gently mix the tomatoes, 1 ripe med i u m mango, cut salsa; stir to combine. Taste
med i u m dice avocado, onion, ci lantro, into %-inch dice and add more lime ju ice if it
% cup finely diced red onion lime juice, and 1 tsp. salt in a 3 Tbs. chopped fresh cila ntro seems sweet (it should be
2 Tbs. mi nced fresh ci la ntro mixing or serving bowl. Serve 4 large pita breads, cut i n somewhat tangy to offset the
2 Tbs. fresh lime ju ice alongside the chicken. 8
h a l f t o yield h a lf-moon sweetness of the meat).
pockets To serve, let diners
Position a rack in the center 2 tsp. fresh lime j u ice; more
of the oven and heat the Servmg suggesti o n ' assemble their own sand
to taste
wiches by filling the halved
broiler to high. Put the Serve with black beans and
Heat the oven to 450°F. Mix pitas with the lamb and salsa.
drumsticks in a medium
rice or tortilla chips.
bowl. Drizzle them with the the cumin, ginger, and cinna
olive oil and toss to coat. mon in a small bowl. Reserve Note ' This recipe also
Sprinkle in the cumin, chili % tsp. of the spice mix in a works as an hors d'oeuvre.
powder, sugar, 1/2tsp. salt, large bowl. In another large
bowl, sprin kle the remaining Cut the pitas into triangles
spices over the lamb and m ix and toss with 4 to 5 Tbs.
with a fork to combine.
olive oil and kosher salt.
Heat a 1 2-inch skillet over
medium-high heat. Add the Toast on a baking sheet in
lamb and all but 1f3
cup of the a 450°F oven, flipping after
onion. Season with salt and
pepper and cook, stirring and 5 minutes, until crisped and
breaking up the meat with the slightly browned, 7 minutes
side of a spoon, until the lamb
total. Top each triangle with
is fully cooked and all of the
liquid has evaporated from
the pan, about 9 minutes. Stir
some of the lamb mixture
and a bit of the salsa.
o
in 1/2cup of the chutney and
continue to cook for 1 minute.
FINE COOKING Photos: Scott Phillips

o
Butternut Squash Ravioli Lemon Chicken Soup with

with Rosemary Oil Spinach & Dill
Serves six. With a large wire rack and Serves four to six. bring to a full boi l ; turn off the
a small bowl of water close heat and let stand, covered,
1f2 lb. butternut squash, by, lay six wonton wrappers 2 Tbs. extra-virgin o l ive oil for 5 minutes. With tongs,
peeled, seeded, a nd cut 1 large yellow onion, cut into transfer the chicken to a cut
on a clean, dry countertop.
into %-inch d i ce (lY2 cups) mediu m dice
ting board and shred it with a
Drop a rounded 1 tsp. of the
% cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 lb. boneless, skin less
filling in the center of each table knife and fork, discard
Kosher salt and fresh ly chicken thighs
wrapper. Brush the edges ing any obvious fat or gristle.
o ground black pepper
1 clove garlic, m i nced
of each wrapper with a little
water. Fold each wrapper to
1 qt. low-sa lt chicken broth
% cup instant rice
Working in two batches,
puree the broth, rice, and
1 % tsp. minced fresh 1 tsp. dried oregano
rosemary create a triangle or half moon, 5 oz. (6 cups lightly packed) onions in a blender until very
% cup heavy cream pushing out any air bu bbles baby spinach smooth, 30 to 60 seconds.
% cup freshly grated Parmi and pressing the edges to 2 Tbs. minced fresh d i l l Return the chicken and
giano Regg iano; more for seal completely. Transfer the 2 Tbs. fresh lemon j u ice; the thickened broth to the pot
serving ravioli to the wire rack; repeat more to taste and bring to a simmer over
36 square or round wonton the process with the remain Kosher salt and freshly medium-low heat. Add the
wrappers ing wonton wrappers and ground black pepper spi nach and d i l l ; cook until
filling, making sure the coun the spinach wilts completely,
Put the squash, 213 cup water,
tertop is dry after each batch.
Heat the oil in a small (3-qt.)
about 3 minutes. Stir in the
1 Tbs. of the oil, and a scant Dutch oven or soup kettle
Heat the remaining 3 Tbs. lemon ju ice. Season to taste
1/2 tsp. salt in a large, deep
oil and 1 tsp. rosemary in a
over medium heat. Add the
with salt, pepper, and more
saute pan. Turn the heat to onion and cook u ntil soft
small skil let or saucepan over lemon juice.
high until the water simmers; ened, 5 to 7 min utes. Add the
medium heat. When the rose
cover and steam the squash chicken thighs, broth, rice,
mary starts to sizzle, take the
until it's just tender and the and oregano. Cover, raise
pan off the heat.
water has just evaporated, the heat to medium high, and
Drop half of the ravioli into
5 to 6 minutes; check often.
the simmering water. Cook
Stir in the garlic and 1/2tsp. of
u ntil the wrapper over the fill
the rosemary; saute until fra
ing starts to wrinkle and the
grant, about 1 minute. Trans
ravioli turn translucent, 3 to
fer to a food processor and
4 minutes. With a large slot
add the cream, Parmigiano,
ted spoon, transfer six ravioli
and a few grinds pepper.
to each of three pasta plates.
Process, scraping the bowl
Repeat to cook the remaining
as needed , until the mixture is
ravioli. Drizzle each portion
mostly smooth.
of the ravioli with 2 tsp. of
While the squash cools
o slightly, wash the saute pan
and fill it with 2 qt. water and
the pasta cooking water and
1 tsp. of the rosemary oil,
sprin kle with a little Parmi
1 Tbs. salt; bri ng to a simmer
giano, and serve immed iately.
over medium-high heat.
o
Sausage , Potato & Apple Saute Pan-Fried Scallops with

Serves four. and apple into 'l2-inch dice. Malt Vinegar Dipping Sauce
Scrape the cooked sausage
2 Tbs. extra -virg i n olive oil Serves four as a main course iron or nonstick works well)
and onions into a colander
1 large yellow onion, cut or six as an hors d'oeuvre. over medium-high heat. Heat
to d rain briefly before trans
into med i u m d i ce (about until the oil begins to shim
ferring to a medium bowl. 1 large egg
2 cups) mer and ripple and bubbles
Add the remaining 1 Tbs. oil Y2 cup (2 oz.) plain dry
1 lb. sweet Italian sausage
and then the potatoes and breadcrumbs
instantly when the edge of a
(bulk sausage or links with
apple to the skillet; season 1% lb. "dry" sea scallops scallop is dipped into it. Fry
casings removed)
o
with 1 tsp. salt and several (muscle tabs removed the scallops in two batches,
1 112 lb. russet potatoes
1 large apple grinds pepper. Cook, stirring if necessa ry) turning once with tongs, until
Kosher salt and freshly frequently, until the potatoes % cup malt vinegar golden brown on both sides,
ground black pepper and apple are golden brown 2 tsp. Old Bay seasoning about 2 min utes per side.
2 Tbs. tomato ketchu p and the potatoes are tender, 2 cups neutral oil, such as Adjust the heat as necessary
1 Tbs. Dijon mustard 1 Q to 1 2 minutes. Meanwhile, ca nola, vegeta ble, or to keep the oil hot but not
112 tsp. dried thyme leaves peanut oil smoking.
mix the ketchup, mustard,
2 Tbs. chopped fresh thyme, parsley, and 2 Tbs. Transfer the scallops
flat-leaf pa rsley
Beat the egg in a shallow
water in a small bowl. Return to paper towels to drain.
dish; put the breadcrumbs in
the sausage and onions Serve immediately with the
Heat 1 Tbs. of the oil over another shallow dish. Work
to the skillet and stir in the seasoned malt vinegar.
medium·high heat in an ing with one scallop at a time,
ketchup m ixture. Cook, stir
1 1 - to 1 2-inch nonstick dip it in the beaten egg and
ring frequently, u ntil the hash
skillet. When the oil is hot, then dredge it in the bread
has browned nicely, about Serve with roasted or
add the onion and sau crumbs; set each breaded
another 5 minutes. Season
sage and cook, stirring and scallop on a plate or tray as fried potatoes, or serve
to taste with more salt and
breaking u p the sausage you finish it.
pepper before serving. over greens.
with the side of a wooden Mix the vinegar and Old
spoon, until the sausage is Bay in a small dish.
golden brown and broken Pour the oil into a 1 Q-inch
into small ('h-inch) pieces, straight-sided saute pan (cast-
B to 1 Q m inutes. While the
sausage and onion cook,
peel and cut the potatoes
o
PamAnderson is a contributing editor to Fine Cooking and a
cookbook author. Her most recent book is CookS mart . •

Fine Cooking 067

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

Fine Cooking 067

Uploaded by

Document Information

Original Title

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

Fine Cooking 067

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

Bonus15sectithanksgi

POWER TO THE PRAWN.

16 fresh or thawed jumbo prawns or shrimp

Leaving tails intact, peel prawns; devein. Reserving

enhance your next culinary creation,

Soak beans in 2 quarts cold water, covered, overnight;

READER SERVICE NO. 78

10E T hanksgiving on the Side

10 Menus & Wine Picks

ITI ���aI:��� ��-:l��� ,�e 28

38 DINNER WITH FRIENDS: 75

45 Fall's Overlooked Vegetables

50 Tonight, Try a Crustless Quiche

60 EXPLORING CUISINES: .:. Buying beef broth

The Fastest Chicken Soup in the East 84 Food Science

Mediterranean Beef Wraps with Roasted

• Mini Savory Clafoutis, 53 •• Twice-Baked Sweet Potatoes with

Salad with Parmesan, 43

••• G inger Apple Crumb Pie,65

6 FINE COOKING Photos: Scott Phillips

scales for monitoring the nutritional content of their diets, portion

control and consistent quality in baking. Soehnle offers this and

-( �� more with a perfect measure of style and fUnction.

to the Chef withBernina

Brimming with the stupendous, exciting,

l www1-800-895 CHEF (2433)

Mionetto Prosecco Rose

& Beyond Main-course wines

White wines fisted from

mention? Just remember to check the yield

Coffee connoisseurs know the only way to make really

1. Grind 2. Brew 3. Enjoy

WHIP UP A NEW CAREER •

t:Academie de Cuisine Order toll-free: 866-466-0052

M editerranean Beef Wraps

Chicken Coconut Soup, p . 61 Ham, MUlbroam & Cblve

like Bonny Doon's Ca' del Solo fruity wine with

Big House Pink from California good acidity like a Gamay-baaed

o Your best ON-LINE source for [QP

meals in 1/3 of the time. chocolate tempering equipment is

nationwide including: Starting at only $319.95

Falk Culinair Bundt® Mini CaRes

2.5mm stainless lined, solid copper

Falk's exclusive brushed finish

© Culinary Concepts Int'l, Inc.

READER SERVICE NO. 1 06 READER SERVICE NO. 92

Watch those modifiers

.:. garlic, onions, and fresh ginger

Q) a company on the Internet. I bought

-Mike Casey, good work!

which is sometimes difficult. Alexander Valley. Martha Holmberg

-Constance Frana, -Mark Donaldson, SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER

Frei Brothers Reserve, through 1 7; get specifics

for holiday menus, useful

Printed in the USA.

Member Audit �The AuBurediatu

Mail ing List:

The Taunton Guara ntee:

Copyright 2004 by The Taunton Press, Inc. No reproduction

ITI ��aI:�� -:l�� ,�e 28

has a split personal the ground. Fennel thrives in cool

piate and overyour dessen for an degant, picture

of the best varietals from the most highly

-0 I nstead of digging around with a spoon, I sim