The 20th Century of American Fashion: 1900 – 2000

By Alison Kass

Submitted in Partial Fulfillment of the

Requirements for a

Degree in Writing

Journalism and Freelance

10 May 2011

Professor Anne Witkavitch WRT 465

 Abstract

This thesis project is a collection of articles that discuss American fashion

during the 20th century. The articles are grouped by decade, starting in the year

1900 and finishing in the year 2000; with a double-decade piece for the beginning

of the century. Fashion is an ever-changing, growing entity that connects with

every person in the United States; some embrace it while others ignore it, yet

fashion has a place in the American society that is constant. Through world wars

and depressions, fashion takes on revolutionary hardships and transforms itself

accordingly, becoming selections of style that fit every occasion, taste, and social

standard. What happens in society is demonstrated in fashion. Coco Chanel

quoted, “fashion is always of the time in which you live.” These articles

correspond to and represent that.

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 Table of Contents

Introduction
1
1900-1920s: The Beginning of Fashion in the 20th Century
5
1930s: The Great Depression and Hollywood Glamour
10
1940s: Women’s Workwear
13
1950s: Retro Beauty for Housewives and Pin-ups
17
1960s: A Fashion Revolution
20
1970s: Funky Style
24
1980s: The Edge of Fashion
27
1990-2000s: Fashion Goes Modern
31

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 The 20th Century of American Fashion: 1900 - 2000

Introduction

Fashion designer Coco Chanel said, “Fashion is not something that exists

in dresses only. Fashion is in the sky, in the street; fashion had to do with ideas,

the way we live, what is happening” (“Famous Women and Beauty,” 2010).

Coco Chanel’s quote is as pertinent today as it was back in the 1950s

when she said it. Many see fashion as just frivolous clothing for anorexic-thin

models, but fashion is also for the everyday woman with a discretionary income.

The bottom line is that women want to look and feel good—the two are

synonymous with one another. Chanel’s message resonates deeper than a classic

suit jacket. Fashion is a part of who we are, the way we live, and the times we

exist in—Chanel’s idea of fashion tied into ideas is a classic concept that spans

decades. Fashion is not only defined by what we wear, but also how we carry

ourselves. Those two things combined; clothing and attitude are what make up a

personal style.

Fashions and styles in America have changed dramatically over the

decades in the past century. Fashion itself is an ever-changing collection of

styles that suit different people and different times. Fashion can be viewed as an

expressive art, with the human body as its canvas, and as a representation of

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one’s class, career, imagination, and mood. But all fashions go in and out of

style, which is evident in the vast changes seen in American clothing. There are

many fads, yet other styles remain classics—clothing that sat in a woman’s

closet in the 1950s, and remains in the wardrobes of women today.

There are many factors that dictate which fashions come in and out of

style in the United States. Many styles in the new millennium are inspired by the

trends in past decades, and the trends in those decades were connected to what

was going on in the country at that time. Crises in America profoundly affect

what people wear, what they buy, and what they desire. The Great Depression in

the ‘30s and early ‘40s heavily impacted what Americans bought and wore as

clothing. Once people had to fight to feed their families, fashion became an

unnecessary luxury, and was seemingly unimportant compared to other things in

daily life. Fashion fell by the wayside for a few years during this time, but never

vanished completely, because the lack of style actually then became the style of

the time. New York City both mourns the 9/11 attacks and celebrates Fashion

Week within the same block; half the crowd is dressed in structured black while

the other sports Spring’s new lines of flowing silhouettes in pastel colors. This

observable fact is an example of how fashion is part of life practices in the United

States.

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 Once identified, fashion begins to change. This statement corresponds to

the cultural, social, and psychological effects fashion has on the American people.

As displayed in the articles ahead, styles come into fashion, catch on to the

masses, and only stay for a short time until they dissipate when the next new, big

thing comes along. The changes in fashion are motivated by culture and events,

which in turn affect people socially and psychologically. Different styles embody

different states of mind and events; the woman in white at a wedding is always

the bride, as a white dress is culturally viewed as a fresh and innocent look, and as

a new beginning. Conversely, at funerals and memorial services, the room is filled

with people wearing all black outfits; this style represents the depressed or dark

feelings people are having at the event.

Fashion can be used as a synonym for glamour, style, and beauty. But

more than any of these things, fashion should be seen as an expression. Every one

is exposed to fashion every day, and every single person’s fashion differs

somehow from another’s. Even those who do not give any thought to what they

wear, or having a style, make choices in clothing that depict themselves as a

person, and represent their character on a daily basis. The self-expression that

comes from style allows people to be whoever they want to be. Fashion allows a

person to change who they are based on their look. It is that expression that can

boost self esteem, and allow the discovery of how one wants to present

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themselves to the world as an individual. Fashion is an ever-changing, always

growing, celebration of diversity in America.

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 1900-1920: The Beginning of Fashion in the 20th Century

Figures 1-2; 1900 Corsets

Figures 3-4; Flappers

In the beginning of the 20th century, women in America began to embrace

their personal styles. Before the 1900s, styles in America were very modest, and

clothing was only used for cover from the elements. The 1900s marked the slow

movement of fashion from simple body coverings to more defined silhouettes for

women.

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 In the early 1900s, fashion was beginning to change into commerce. In the

meantime, most women still wore full cover dresses that showed little to no skin.

The attire was formal and very ladylike, with lace and ribbons, and big feathery

hats. Women often changed their outfits several times a day depending on

occasions in order to maintain proper etiquette. Underneath those frilly, full-cover

dresses were tight fitting corsets.

Corsets were underwear garments with long laces that were pulled and tied

until a woman’s body was held in a tightly defined silhouette. Corsets were

uncomfortable and meant to control how a woman moved and stood. If too tightly

laced, which they often were, it restricted eating and breathing (Steele, 2001).

No matter what type of garment, women’s clothing in the early 1900s was

designed to show off a woman’s tightly corseted torso. Such tight fitting clothes

required the perfect fit; many women went to dressmakers to be measured for

their custom dresses. The most famous custom dressmakers of the time were the

Tirocchi sisters. The sisters carefully constructed garments using dress forms built

to their client’s exact measurements; they first made the lining, which was given

to the client to try on to make sure it fit properly. After that step, the dressmakers

then sewed the more costly fabrics around the lining, draping satin or velvet to

form the skirt, and create a bodice using net, lace, and beaded trim (“Fashion in

the 1900s). A girdle or belt held the waistline together.

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 Between 1910 and 1920, fashion began to loosen up. French designers like

Paul Poiret looked to the French Empire for inspiration. He began designing

dresses for an un-corseted figure, using loose, elegant draping. The clothes

possessed softer lines and fell over a woman’s curves rather than forcing their

bodies to conform to their clothing, as previous designers had done. By 1910,

women began throwing away their corset undergarments. Poiret claimed that his

dresses instigated the demise of the corset, but the truth is that many before him

had already taken the first steps to eliminating corsets in their fashions. There had

been a movement since the mid-19th century to abolish corsets (Steele, 2001). The

trend towards looser gowns crossed the Atlantic to the United States, where

American women adopted the new style. However, conservative women still hung

on to their corsets for a few more years.

When the World War I began in 1914, the couture business suffered a loss

in business. Poiret and other designers were called into the military and forced to

close their couture houses. Wartime prevented trade between France and the

United States, so clientele in the couture business disappeared (“Fashion History

Costume Trends and Eras,” 2009).

As male designers were off defending France, a young female designer

came of age. Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel was a pioneering fashion designer whose

modernist philosophy and simple yet elegant design style helped her to become

the most important figure in fashion in the 20 th century. She began making hats

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and selling them in her boutique, which gradually expanded to include jersey

dresses and menswear-inspired fashions. In a decade of wartime shortages,

Chanel’s practical but expensive jersey outfits turned into an instant modern

classic, appealing to wealthy clients because it made the rich look young and laid-

back (“Famous Women and Beauty,” 2010).

In the aftermath of World War I, the United States entered a prosperous

era. Social customs and morals became relaxed in the optimism brought on by the

war’s end and the booming stock market. Women gained the right to vote in the

1920s and were entering the workforce in record numbers. The prohibition on

alcohol was being ignored by many, and new music and dance came on to the

scene. There was a revolution in almost every sphere of American activity, and

fashion was no exception.

Clothing changed with women’s changing roles in the modern society,

particularly within the idea of freedom for women. Although women of a certain

age still continued to dress conservatively, forward-looking younger women now

made sportswear into the greatest post-war fashion. Women wore shorter skirts

with pleats, gathers, or slits to allow motion to rule women’s fashion for the first

time in the new century.

Low waist dresses with fullness at the hemline allowed women to dance

more freely. This design was the beginning of the flapper style, which became the

‘20’s biggest fad. Flapper dresses were often black, had a dropped waist, and were

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fringed. The dresses also sometimes featured beading or sequined material.

Flapper dresses were much more showy than the typical past decade dress.

Women wore them with fitted bucket hats, covering their short curled hair, and

low-heeled shoes. Women who wore this style of dress were called flappers,

signifying a new breed of Western women who tended to show their contempt for

what was considered appropriate behavior. They danced, cut their hair into short

bobs, embraced liberalism, and were the beginning of women defying social and

sexual norms in America.

Fashion in the 1920s officially entered a more contemporary era of fashion

design. Women continued to liberate themselves from the constricting clothes

they had worn earlier in the decade and openly embraced more comfortable

styles, like the shorts and pants put into style by Coco Chanel.

The beginning of the century accomplished an important feat for women’s

fashion that would shape the way clothing was seen and worn for the next

hundred years. 1900 to 1920 began the movement on liberating women from the

stuffy, matronly items women were obligated to wear in order to look like a

proper lady. Soon, women were free of binding corsets, and more comfortable yet

still flattering clothing was produced and worn without restraint.

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 1930s: The Great Depression and Hollywood Glamour

Figures 5-6; Depression Fashion and Hollywood Star Mae West

The Great Depression of 1929 left little in America’s 1930s unchanged,

including fashion. The crisis of the economy profoundly affected what people

bought, and therefore, what they wore. What seemed to be overnight, the high-

spirited, vivacious look of the flappers disappeared and, instead, mature

sophistication became the mark of a fashionable woman. Looks were classless,

ageless, and reasonable, all easy to wear and in affordable materials. Monetary

hardships faced by Americans forced fashion back into a more conservative

mode.

Clothing during the Depression was usually comfortable pants and tops

that women already owned prior to the Depression, since most did not have the

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funds to buy anything new. Women needed to be dressed in order for them to

move and work freely, so colors and fabrics did not much matter anymore.

Once the Depression ended, trends slowly moved back towards a more

feminine look. Starlets in Hollywood became the source of inspiration for women

seeking style. Late 1930s fashion was fueled by Hollywood star’s glamour. Gucci

scarves and sunglasses gained popularity for wealthy women. Elegant fabrics

made their debut, as dresses were most often crafted of silk or satin and made to

move with the body and hug its curves. These elaborately cut dresses epitomized

the glamorous design of the era.

While evening wear became more chic, daywear became sporty. Sport

dressing gained popularity in the mid ‘30s. The decade was the first to see a true

distinction between day and evening styles. During the affluence of the ‘20s,

women could easily wear impractical clothing during the day without worry, as

long as their domestic servants took care of the chores. However, the hard times

of the Depression caused many women to do more work at home themselves,

which necessitated practical clothing for the daytime. This further reflected the

‘30s streamlined design, as well as women’s new freedom to wear trousers.

Simple skirts and pared-down outfits allowed for easy mobility in the daytime,

while new fabrics such as metallic lamé became popular for more luxurious

evening wear. The Depression motivated designers and manufacturers to produce

clothing out of cheaper materials in order to save money. The newly improved

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synthetic fabric rayon became an important part of many designers’ fashions, and

cotton also moved into being more stylish clothing designs. This switch is still in

practice today: cotton is the most popular fabric for clothing, and rayon is found

in many clothing items in the present day (“The People History,” 2010).

Despite the stock market crash, the Tirocchi sister’s business remained

strong into the early 1930s. Customers continued to order sport dressing, evening

gowns, afternoon dresses, and wool suits, but as the years went on they placed

fewer orders, many of them were forced by circumstance. By the end of the

decade, there were half as many customers as in the beginning. The Depression

affected fashion profoundly, through designers and consumers, but the affluent

celebrities kept fashion alive; stars were never more glamorous than they were in

the ‘30s, with sparkly gowns, fur shrugs, and perfect curls.

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 1940s: Women’s Workwear

Figures 7-9; Rosie the Riveter was a working woman’s icon

In 1939, World War II began, but fashion still had its place, even again in

a time of war. As America entered the landscape of war, fashion responded to the

restrained mood and economy. This shift in all aspects of life provided a change

in clothing that would revolutionize how clothes were manufactured and sold to

the American public. In the meantime, the drabness and uniformity of clothing

was inevitable, as people were encouraged to make do with the clothing they

already owned and mend whatever old pieces they had. Service uniforms were

constantly worn by both men and women at all types of social events. The reality

of the war became impossible to ignore as military style became the most popular

trend in clothing.

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 In all the countries at war, fashion took a second place to providing basic

necessities to the men and women in the armed forces. Many factories that made

clothing were closed to help in the war effort by producing military supplies. The

remaining fashion houses worked with restrictions on how much fabric could be

used in any garment, and consumers had to fit clothing into their allotments of

ration coupons. All types of cloth were needed during the war for a variety of

purposes, so material for clothing was severely rationed. Women were issued a

limited number of ration coupons to use for clothing purchases each year, and this

number declined steadily as the war progressed. Due to the limited number of

materials, fashions of the decade emphasized shorter skirts than ever before,

solely because they used the least amount of fabric to make. Buttons for any type

of apparel were limited to three per clothing item. Nylon stockings, which were

very popular, became scarce, so women began wearing just ankle socks or

showing their bare legs. During the war and its aftermath, there was rarely an

adequate amount of any clothing item available, so women were forced to be

creative, and dressed as femininely as they could with the items that were

available.

Paris fashion trends have always been followed in the United States, but

travel difficulties meant that American designers were receiving more attention

from the public and press than ever before. In France, most couture houses kept

going until the German army occupied Paris. Some couturiers then closed down,

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while others changed location—many moving from Paris to open stores in

America. As soon as Paris was liberated by Allied forces, fashion editors began to

show French designs in magazines again. When French designer Christian Dior

reacted against the deprivation of the war by showing off his new looks, Paris

couture was again the leader in fashion. However, American ready-to-wear

clothing had become very well-liked, and American designers then began to take

a more prominent place in the world of fashion, which they still hold today (“The

People History,” 2010).

Women’s fashion changed dramatically from the silk gowns of the ‘30s to

practical pants for the working woman in the ‘40s. Women were now full-fledged

members of the work force, and designers came out with the ultimate practical

clothing to accommodate this shift in occupation. Women began wearing pants or

overalls, and tying their hair up in scarves for work.

By the late 1940s, designers had grown tired of the utilitarian minimalist

clothing of the wartime era. Women were longing for the luxuries that had been

suppressed during the years of the war, and they began to creep back out in

fashion during the late ‘40s. Styles featured rounded shoulders, full skirts, and

narrow waists. The garments were lined with expensive fabrics, and ornate

accessories became necessary items to make an outfit complete and fashionable.

Although critics complained about the extravagance of clothing while rationing

was still mandated, women throughout the country yearned for the revitalization

15
of femininity. And it would prove to be popular enough to last well into the

1950s.

16
 1950s: Retro Beauty for Housewives and Pin-ups

Figures 10-11; 1950s Pin-up girls

Figures 12-13; Poodle Skirt/Housewife

This retro decade’s fashion exploded for women in terms of fabrics. In

1950, following the end of World War II, rations on all items used to make

clothing were lifted, so clothing was able to be produced more freely, which

sparked a frenzy of newly produced items in a more broad style range.

There were two specific eras of style in the ‘50s decade. The early ‘50s

were devoted to poodle skirts and modest white blouses with black and white

Oxford shoes. Women preferred to look young and innocent into their 20s, with

17
ribbons tied in their curled ponytails. Common styles in this time period were

poodle skirts, which were originally designed by Christian Dior, cardigan

sweaters, a boyfriend’s varsity jacket, and white folded socks with Oxford or

Mary Jane shoes.

While the poodle skirts and sock hop dances were for younger females,

older women dressed smartly, had good grooming habits and a tailored look. In

this decade, acting and looking like a lady was something taught to girls from a

very young age, and wearing dresses on a daily basis was a given. Girls grew up

to be housewives; once their husbands came home from work, they looked

impossibly beautiful, dressed without a wrinkle, all while having a full meal on

the table for dinner. Swing skirts on dresses were most popular for the ‘50s

housewife, which had a tight fitting waist with the skirt splayed out from that

point. Another popular skirt style was the pencil skirt. The goal with this style was

to create an hourglass shape, and girdles were often worn underneath these types

of dresses. The pencil skirt was a straight, tight-fitting skirt for older women, as it

was seen as too provocative for younger girls. Dresses often had bolero sleeves,

and were in floral prints. Popular accessories for women were cat-eye glasses,

which are still a popular style in glasses for women today.

Later in the ‘50s era, America was overflowing with glamour. The style

moved more towards a sexy, but still very feminine look, with women

emphasizing their hourglass shapes even more than the pencil skirt allowed. The

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classic pin-up girl emerged as an art form before it became an actual style, and the

art of seduction is what drove this culture to emerge. Pin-ups were photographs of

celebrities who were considered sex symbols. Pin-ups were artwork, often

depicting idealized versions of what some thought a particularly beautiful or

attractive woman should look like (Buszek, 2006). The pin-up was a uniquely

American art form, and the style is still practiced in great popularity today. The

1950s was the time when female sexuality became much more acceptable to

portray, whether it was through calendars, advertisements, or walking down the

street. Marilyn Monroe and Bettie Page were in full swing in Hollywood, being

the most beautiful and sexually attractive woman to men at that time, so naturally,

other women wanted to follow.

The pin-up style was complete with black winged eyeliner, full red lips,

and filled-in eyebrows with high arches. Even beauty marks were drawn on the

face to look like Marilyn Monroe. Women stressed the smallness of their waists

when dressing, and like what was done with corsets in the 1920s, busts and

backsides were glorified as much as possible. Bathing suits, lingerie, and shorts

were commonly high-waisted. When it came to shoes, high heels and fishnet

stockings were a must for a pin-up (Buszek, 2006).

1950s fashion is one of the styles that had the biggest comeback in the

new millennium. Retro looks are a big part of fashion today for celebrities as well

as the everyday woman.

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 1960s: A Fashion Revolution

Figures 14-15; Hippie and Mod Styles

The 1960s in America were a time of change, and the fashion world was

not excluded from this. The fashion revolution in the ‘60s witnessed an explosion

of youth that again changed styles completely. The Western world began to rebel

against the runway collections of designers in Paris and create their own trends

instead. Designers then followed their creations and desperately tried to include

them into clothing for the masses (“The People History,” 2010). This era is when

the ever-popular wardrobe staple of blue jeans became the fashion staple that it is

today.

By far, the most popular clothing item in the ‘60s was bell-bottom jeans,

and the style became somewhat androgynous, as it became perfectly normal and

20
acceptable for women to wear jeans on a daily basis at this time. Available

clothing had become very diverse, and women could pick and choose which

styles complimented them and their own personal taste, rather than there being

just one or two major trends to follow. Women really began to develop their own

styles, combining fads and colors to make outrageous combinations that

represented their individuality. This type of dress was encouraged, as

manufacturers made many diverse pieces. The freedom of choice inspired by this

decade would live on, and make fashion the fusion of styles and love of

eccentricity that it is today.

In the early ‘60s, ‘50s fashions of bouffant dresses and beehive hair

carried over, but did not last. Beatnik fashions quickly took over, which included

looks with black berets, black slacks, and dark glasses. Women wore flat shoes

during this time, and often dark eye makeup. The ‘60s did not start out with the

psychedelic prints it is known for. Most clothing stores carried items that were

somewhat monotonous and marketed toward older women. Then, little shops

called boutiques opened, and began selling cheap and colorful clothing to teens

and younger women. The stores also sold fun items like leather knee-high boots,

miniskirts, and fake eyelashes. Girls snapped up the budding fashions in the

boutiques, and thus the demand for more fashionable clothing for younger women

became evident to retailers (“The People History,” 2010).

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 Go-go dancers originated in the early ‘60s when women began to get up

on tables at nightclubs and do the twist. There were so many women wearing go-

go boots, another ‘60s fashion fad, to clubs that night promoters in the mid ‘60s

conceived the idea of hiring women to entertain club-goers with their dancing

(“The People History,” 2010).

Popular styles included and ranged from hot pants, which were extremely

tight and short shorts, miniskirts, short printed dresses with bell sleeves, space age

fashions in vinyl and other synthetic materials, bold and solid color-blocked

clothing from the pop-art movements, which were commonly referred to as mod

fashions, madras plaids, oversize sweaters, and matching accessories. Hats and

gloves were no longer appropriate daywear as they were in preppy and ladylike

fashions of earlier decades. Approaching the middle of the decade, the space age

clothing trend became popular. Metallic and neon colors were used, as well as

metal and plastic adornments.

The hippie subculture was originally a youth movement that rose up in the

United States in the mid ‘60s. In 1966, psychedelic clothing became a hit. Acid

colors were brighter and bolder than ever before, and clothes were never short of

loud patterns. The decade ended with the melding of the psychedelic trend to the

hippie look, which would take off in the 70s. Hippie fashions consisted of bell-

bottom jeans or maxi dresses, peasant blouses, fringed vests, flower patches,

headbands, and sandals. Much of hippie clothing was purchased at Army Surplus

22
stores or sewn by women using macramé details or beading. Real flowers were

often worn in women’s hair, coining the term “flower child.” Most jewelry was

handmade, but store-made pendant peace signs worn around the neck were very

popular within hippie culture.

The 1960s were a time of transformation in every aspect of American life.

The move was from conservative Jacqueline Kennedy dress suits to dirty blue

jeans. These volatile changes in taste and fashion, of course, mirrored what was

happening in society as a whole, as it always seems to do.

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 1970s: Funky Style

Figures 16-17; 70s Fashions of lace-up boots, bell-bottoms, and flower-power

Fashion in the 1970s went through an experimental phase after the

psychedelic-style clothing from the ‘60s carried over. Much of the hippie style

had been integrated into the mainstream American society by the early ‘70s.

However, by the mid ‘70s, with the end of the draft and the Vietnam War, the

media lost interest in the hippie counterculture. Instead, there was a revival of the

mod subculture, and the emergence of new youth cultures like skinhead and punk

styles gained popularity.

In early ‘70s fashion, straight and flared empire line dresses with belled

sleeves were the style for dressy occasions. Another frequently worn dress style

was the granny dress; the dress had a high neck which was trimmed with lace.

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Granny dresses were commonly floral printed. Also in the early ‘70s, platform

shoes began to grow in inches, starting out at ¼ inch and maxing out at four

inches at their peak of popularity. Other popular ‘70s styles included bell-bottom

jeans, which had a huge comeback in the ‘90s and can still be found on store

racks and women all over the country today. ‘70s style had a bohemian influence,

with women wearing peasant tops with embroidery and belled sleeves, large

floppy hats, leather sandals, and maxi dresses. Miniskirts of the ‘60s were

replaced with shorts and tucked-in blouses, silk scarves, wooden heels and

chunky jewelry. The ‘70s did still have a large hippie influence, which combined

easily with the bohemian style. Women’s hair was long, and almost always parted

straight down the center.

The mood of the 1970s was giddy with happiness for the war being over,

and people wanted to celebrate. The fashion scene as disco parties during this era

became indelible in ‘70s culture. Disco fashions were trendiest in the late ‘70s,

and is the most memorable and popular style of the decade. Platform shoes and

tight bell-bottom jeans, shiny polyester outfits, and colorful patterns will always

be associated with the disco era as fashion during this time helped revolutionize

the disco culture.

The base of fashion built in the ‘70s influences many facets of the industry

today. The use of synthetic fabrics like rayon and polyester popular in disco

25
clothing became one of the main fabrics used in the clothing industry in the new

millennium.

Women chose to be whoever they wanted to be, and wore whatever they

felt like wearing; a short mini skirt one day, a long maxi dress the next. Women’s

carefree outlook on getting dressed coincided with how women today dress

themselves—it’s all about the feeling. The move away from traditional,

conservative clothing of prior decades solidified in the ‘70s, helping redefine

acceptable standards in women’s clothing for all future fashion to come.

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 1980: The Edge of Fashion

Figures 18-20; 80s Punk, Legwarmers, and Madonna

When 1980s fashion is thought of, many different styles come to mind:

fashion in the ‘80s was a melting pot of personal styles; multiple trends were

combined in different ways to form one’s own look. Of all the decades in the past

century, ‘80s fashion is remembered with the most outrageous styles. Subtlety in

fashion was never practiced—everything was the bigger the better. Big hair,

27
heavy makeup, pounds of metal jewelry and pearls, and mixed bright colors are

trademark styles of ‘80s fashion.

While high fashion greatly declined in the ‘60s and ‘70s, designer trends

were back in the ‘80s. New York boutiques and Paris runway shows were flooded

with American women looking to get their hands on the most sought after

fashions straight from designer lines. Money dominated much of the style in the

‘80s, with mass producers replicating high-end clothing for the middle and lower

classes. Similarly to present time, fashion was centered on top designer clothes

and accessories, while everything else seemed to just be a duplicate of that.

Clothing was a sign of power for many women. Women wore expensive

business suits to work to be seen as authoritative and dominant. By night,

extravagant gowns portrayed a woman’s femininity and glamour. A trend that was

happy to be forgotten for over 10 years but which recently has surfaced again in

the fashion world is the iconic ‘80s shoulder pads. Some women wonder why they

would ever want their shoulders to appear bigger; but in the ‘80s world of money

and power, large shoulders on women asserted that they were powerful as well.

Punk fashion trends were a big fad in the ‘80s. Contrary to the wealthy

women in cocktail dresses, teens and party-goers donned leather, bold neon

colors, big hair, and heavy makeup. Silver and gold jewelry in crosses, chains,

and pearls were stacked on as necklaces and bracelets. This trend was originated

by Madonna’s music videos. The creation of MTV revolutionized how fashion

28
and music came together, inspiring one another throughout the decade. With

MTV airing music videos, American teens could see how their favorite celebrities

and musicians dressed and could then copy their styles in their own unique ways.

Perhaps one of the most influential trends from the ‘80s that has

resurfaced in the present day fashion world is leggings. Leggings were a wardrobe

staple for women in the ‘80s, and still a staple for women today. The difference is

in the way they are worn: leggings in the ‘80s were almost always brightly

colored in a spandex material, textured, or had stirrups, while today, leggings are

most popular in basic black cotton-stretch or leather. Today, leggings are worn

with tunic tops, a shirt that extends below the backside, and is considered the

appropriate way to wear leggings, where as in the ‘80s, it was common for

women to wear their leggings with cropped tops, which was not considered a

fashion faux pas as it is today. Another popular way to wear leggings in the ‘80s

was with a pair of leg warmers on top. Leg warmers were also a big fad of the

decade. Leg warmers are basically thick socks without feet, and were found in the

drawers of every woman who had any bit of fashion sense in the ‘80s. Leg

warmers originated long before the ‘80s fashion trend for dancers to wear to keep

their legs warm. When the movie Flashdance debuted in 1983, leg warmers

moved from function to fashion, and were worn with everything, including

miniskirts, leggings, and parachute pants. Leg warmers were a fashionable

woman’s favorite accessory.

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 Another Flashdance style that gained popularity in the ‘80s and came

back on trend in the present day is off-the-shoulder tops. Women cut wider

necklines in their shirts and sweatshirts in order for the top to drape off the

shoulder. Today, shirts are manufactured to be cut as off-the-shoulder tops, so

there is no need for scissors.

The fashion from the ‘80s is without a doubt one of the most interesting

and eccentric decades, because there was no fear or repercussion by trying

something new.

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 1990-2000s: Fashion Goes Modern

Figures 21-22; Denim and Louis Vuitton Bag

The end of the century’s fashion is as opposite as it gets to the fashion in

the beginning of the century, but the concept is the same; fashion is a tool used to

individualize, to raise esteem, and to make a statement. These facets exceed time,

and apply to all the fashion styles throughout the decades of the 20th century.

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 The punk style popular in the ‘80s evolved into the grunge style of the

‘90s. Alternative music ruled the air waves, and the rocker style gained

popularity. Denim, most often ripped and distressed, was at the forefront of the

grunge fashion movement.

The rising world of hip-hop also became a big influence in ‘90s fashion,

inspiring baggier fitting pants for women as well as men. Whatever its expression,

comfort was the key factor in clothing choice for most women in the ‘90s. The

decade began to reject the moneyed styles of designers and opt for more causal

wear. Work place attire, while still being professional, relaxed its standards

somewhat and had freer policies in dress code, allowing women to break free

from the business suits of the ‘80s and have more of a personal style while on the

job.

Preppy clothing came into fashion by designer Tommy Hilfiger, whose

all-American look dominated department store sales. Sweater vests, turtlenecks,

blouses, khakis, and a palette of pink, green, and white filled closets across the

country. The preppy look was associated with being an all-American girl, and in

school settings, popularity.

The ‘90s preppy style was the opposite of another style that gained

recognition in the decade. Again, from the music videos young girls watched, the

vibe became more sexualized, suggestive, and fashion-forward. Belly shirts for

teens came into the limelight, with hems rising on skirts and skorts alike. Females

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who dressed in this type of attire were considered inappropriate, especially in

school settings, where it frequented. Many girls would wear their preppy school

clothes during the day, and then change into more revealing outfits at night. This

type of dress was discouraged among teens, as it lowered morals in the eyes of

adults and guardians. This began the issue that still goes on in the present day;

females being exposed to sexuality at a young age through the media, and then

wanting to appear more mature by dressing sexy. Low rise pants, which are

almost the only kind of jeans bought and sold in the present day, originated during

this time. Heels became higher, adding platforms and starting to morph into what

now is the ever popular and classic stiletto heel.

The ‘90s was a time in which the nation grew more independent, and

different categories of style emerged. Women could choose their look, whether it

be grunge or preppy, and feel empowered by their personal style no matter which

category it fit into.

The 2000s are often described as a mash-up decade. The decade did not

have one or two particular styles like prior ones, but a multitude of fashion styles

that included recycling fads from past decades, and calling it vintage. Many other

styles from the ‘90s also continued on into the ‘00s, but just became more refined.

The overall styles of the 2000s are best described as polished versions of earlier

fashions, honing in on the basics to create new styles that were inspired by the

past.

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 Designer clothing and accessories were once again at the forefront of

fashion, just as they had been in 1920 with Coco Chanel. Fashions revive and

renew over the decades.

Works Cited

Buszek, M. E. (2006). Pin-up grrrls: feminism, sexuality, popular culture.

Durham: Duke University Press.

Coco Chanel Biography. (n.d.). Famous Women and Beauty. Retrieved February

15, 2011, from http://www.famous-women-and-beauty.com/coco-chanel-

biography.html

Fashion History Costume Trends and Eras, Trends Victorians - Haute Couture.

(n.d.). Fashion History Costume Trends and Eras, Trends Victorians -

Haute Couture. Retrieved February 15, 2011, from http://www.fashion-

era.com/index.htm

Fashion in the 1900s. (n.d.). The A. & L. TIROCCHI DRESSMAKERS PROJECT.

Retrieved February 15, 2011, from

http://tirocchi.stg.brown.edu/514/story/fashion_earlycentury.html

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Fashions and Clothes Styles from 50 years what do you remember. (n.d.). Where

People, History and Memories Join Together from The People History

Site. Retrieved February 15, 2011, from

http://www.thepeoplehistory.com/fashions.html

Goldberg, N. (2005). Writing down the bones: freeing the writer within (2nd ed.).

Boston: Shambhala.

Hoobler, D., & Hoobler, T. (2000). Vanity rules: a history of American fashion

and beauty. Brookfield, Conn.: Twenty-first Century Boosk.

Scheips, C. (2007). American fashion.. New York: Assouline.

Steele, V. (2001). The corset: a cultural history. New Haven: Yale University

Press.

Pictures

Figures 1-2; 1900 Corsets

http://www.antiquecorsetgallery.com/article.php?article=46

Figures 3-4; Flappers

http://ourimages.co.cc/the-flappers-of-the-1920s.html

Figure 5; Depression Fashion

http://rumorsrva.blogspot.com/2009/01/dressing-in-recession.html

Figure 6; Hollywood Glamour of Mae West

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http://www.zimbio.com/1930%27s+Hairstyles/articles/7/1930s+Style+Icon+Mae
+West

Figure 7-8; Working Women

http://emergewithstyle.blogspot.com/

Figure 9; Working Women

http://www.ehow.com/info_8132071_ladies-clothes-1940s.html

Figure 10; 1950s Pin up girls

http://www.theage.com.au/news/Arts/Turning-the-older-cheek-on-
porn/2005/05/27/1116950831674.html

Figure 11; 1950s Pin up girls

http://hereshesat.blogspot.com/2011/04/n-is-fornineteen-forties.html

Figure 12; Poodle Skirt

http://www.flickr.com/photos/detroitinstituteofarts/3969366635/

Figure 13; Housewife

http://echostains.wordpress.com/tag/nostalgia/

Figure 14; Hippie

http://fashionheroines.blogspot.com/2010/11/inspirations-sixties-revolution-
from.html

Figure 15; Mod

http://www.bloglovin.com/en/blog/1767900/mod-fox-1960s-inspired-fashion

Figures 16-17; 70s Fashion

http://partyfashion.tripod.com/id6.html

Figure 18; Punk

http://dressingupindaisies.onsugar.com/Through-Decades-1980s-fashion-
8256961?page=0,0,1

Figure 19; Legwarmers

http://www.thecheapdesignerpurses.com/blog/1980s-fashion/

Figure 20; Madonna

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http://www.80s-fashion-fancy-dress.com/80s-madonna-look.html

Figure 21; Denim

http://www.fashionbehindthescenes.com/denim-fashion-trends-of-the-season-
spring-summer-2010/

Figure 22; Louis Vuitton Bag

http://www.okchaneloutlets.com/louis-vuitton-bag-a040-p-497.html

*All taken from Google Images. All used without permission.

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