Acoustic Guitar Buying Guide (Full Version)

Table of Contents
Purpose and Budget
Construction
Common Acoustic Guitar Woods
Body Style Characteristics
The 12-String Acoustic Guitar
Acoustic-Electric Guitars
Playability, Comfort, and Tone

Purpose and Budget

First and foremost, you should consider what your plans are for your new acoustic
guitar. Then you should decide how much you can afford to spend on one. Are you
an experienced player looking to move up to a higher-quality instrument? Perhaps
you are a beginner who wants an inexpensive instrument to learn on. Most likely, the
more you invest in an acoustic guitar, the higher the quality of the instrument will
be. This doesn't mean that all inexpensive acoustic guitars are low quality. Thanks to
modern manufacturing techniques, you now have a wide selection of highly playable,
low-cost acoustic guitars to choose from. By knowing the most important elements
that contribute to a playable, nice-sounding acoustic guitar, you can maximize what
you get for your budget.

Construction

Before you purchase an acoustic guitar, it's important to have some knowledge of
the instrument's parts and what goes into building one.
Body » The body consists of a back, sides, and top. The types of construction and
woods that go into the body have a major impact on the way the instrument sounds.
Different body styles and sizes also impact a guitar's sound. The body of an acoustic
guitar can also be looked at with regard to its upper and lower bouts and the waist.

Bridge » The bridge on an acoustic guitar anchors the strings to the body, and
transfers vibration and energy from the strings to the guitar's top. Bridge pins keep
the strings anchored to the bridge on most acoustic guitars. An integral part of the
bridge is the saddle. Most often made of bone or plastic, the saddle spaces the
strings at the bridge and helps transfer the strings' vibrations to the top.

The Epiphone DR-100 acoustic features a laminate spruce top.

Top » Perhaps the single most important element in the way an acoustic guitar will
sound is its top. As the strings are strummed, the vibrations are transferred through
the bridge to the top. As the top vibrates, so does the air within the body, amplifying
the sound of the strings. Acoustic guitar tops are either solid or laminated,
sometimes with "flamed" or "quilted" figuring in the wood.
The Martin D-15 Custom Spruce and Rosewood acoustic features a solid Sitka spruce top.

A solid top typically has two single-ply pieces of wood. Most often a single chunk of
wood will be butterfly-cut (split down the middle) and the two pieces matched up
down the middle of the guitar (lengthwise). A laminate top is created with several
thin plies of wood that are pressed together. Laminate tops tend to be less affected
by changes in temperature and humidity, and generally an acoustic guitar with a
laminate top will be more affordable than one with a solid top. A solid top might cost
you a bit more but will offer greater resonance and projection.

When selecting an acoustic guitar at Sattva, solid-top guitars will always be

described as such. If a description reads, for example, "maple top," you can assume
it's a laminate top.

Neck » The neck of the guitar is attached to the body at the neck joint. Most
acoustic guitars use a set neck, meaning it is glued to the body. Few acoustic guitars
use a bolt-on neck. The neck is an important part of an acoustic guitar's feel and
playability. Neck components include the fretboard (or fingerboard), headstock,
tuners, and an internal truss rod. The metal truss rod runs the length of the neck
and is adjusted to eliminate the bow caused by string tension or environmental
factors. The truss rod is typically adjusted with an Allen wrench either at the
headstock or just inside the body at the base of the neck

Fretboard or fingerboard » The fretboard is a long, thin piece of wood that is

glued to the neck. Thin pieces of metal called frets are embedded in the wood. This
divides the fretboard into half-step increments of the 12-tone scale so when the
strings are held down at certain frets different notes are sounded. The most common
woods used for acoustic guitar fretboards are rosewood and ebony. Sometimes the
fretboard will not be an overlay but fashioned from the same piece of wood as the
neck.

Tuning keys (aka tuners, machine heads) » Located on the headstock, the
tuners adjust the tension of each string, thereby changing its pitch.
Common Acoustic Guitar Woods

When shopping for an acoustic guitar, you'll find that there are a number of different
woods, as well as different species of the same wood, that are used in the various
parts of the instrument. It's beneficial to understand the tonal qualities of these
woods, and where they are often used in acoustic guitar construction.

The Cordoba 20 Solid Top Nylon String acoustic features a cedar top.

Cedar » Cedar is a soft wood that emphasizes the sparkle of the upper registers,
and tends to favor a lighter playing technique. For this reason, it is used mostly for
classical or fingerstyle acoustic guitars, for the top as well as the back and sides.

Ebony » Known particularly for its use in pianos, ebony is an excellent wood for
acoustic guitar fretboards. Ebony is very strong and has a slick feel to it, which is
why it is the preferred fretboard material for many players.

Koa » Koa is a Hawaiian wood with a distinct golden color. Tonally, it resembles
mahogany, with a focus on the middle range of the spectrum. Koa is typically found
on more expensive acoustic guitars due to its scarcity, and is used for tops as well as
backs and sides.

Mahogany » In acoustic guitars, mahogany is most often used for backs and sides.
Occasionally mahogany is used as a top wood as well. When used for the back and
sides of an acoustic guitar, mahogany adds snap and a general boost to the middle
range of the spectrum while reducing the boominess sometimes found in
dreadnoughts. As a top, mahogany tends to emphasize the high end. Mahogany is
also used frequently for acoustic guitar necks and bridges.

The Washburn D10CEQ Quilted acoustic features a stunning quilted maple top.

Maple » Maple tends to generate a dry tone that emphasizes the upper end of the
tonal spectrum. In acoustic guitars, maple is often used for the back and sides,
allowing the top to generate its natural tone without added coloration from the rest
of the body.
Ovangkol » Ovangkol is an African wood that is increasing in popularity among
acoustic guitar makers. Used primarily for the back and sides of an acoustic guitar,
ovangkol's tone resembles the warmth of rosewood with the sparkling midrange of
mahogany or koa.

Rosewood » Rosewood is typically used for the back and sides of an acoustic guitar,
as well as the fretboard and bridge. Due to the diminishing supply--and subsequent
higher cost--of Brazilian rosewood, Indian rosewood has mostly replaced it in the
market. Though they have a slightly different appearance, tonally they are virtually
identical. When used for the back and sides of the guitar, rosewood provides warm
low end, enhanced mids, and added resonance.

Sapele » Sapele is another African wood that is being used more often in acoustic
guitar-making. Also known as African mahogany, sapele is often used for the back
and sides of an acoustic guitar. Like mahogany, it adds to the midrange and overall
projection of the top wood.

Spruce » Spruce is the most common wood used for acoustic guitar tops. While
there are a number of species of spruce (Engelmann, Sitka, and German, for
example), usually only more expensive acoustic guitars will denote the type used.
Spruce is a lightweight yet strong wood that is easy to work with for luthiers.
Tonally, spruce is resonant and provides good sustain and clarity.

Walnut » Walnut is frequently used as an alternative to mahogany in acoustic guitar

bodies. Its tonal properties are comparable to mahogany with a focus on the
midrange, and it enhances projection of the top wood's tone.

Body Style Characteristics

Examples of three common body

styles (left to right)...
Dreadnought: the Martin D-28;
Jumbo: the Gretsch Rancher;
Grand Concert: the Taylor 30th
Anniversary Limited Edition.
Attempting to apply strict definitions to acoustic guitar body styles can be difficult
since many styles are manufacturer-specific. The most important thing to remember
is that you should find a style that is both comfortable for you to play and produces
the tone you desire.

A good rule of thumb to follow is the larger the soundboard, the more low-end tone
and volume the guitar will generate. The traditional dreadnought body style provides
a large soundboard, while narrow-waisted styles such as grand concert and jumbo
combine a large soundboard with increased playing comfort. Most manufacturers
make acoustic guitars to accommodate smaller players, as well as travel or
backpacker guitars that are more convenient to transport.

This Babicz Identity Series Acute Auditorium illustrates the upper bout cutaway.

Another important body feature is the cutaway. An acoustic guitar with a cutaway in
the upper bout allows the player to easily reach above the 12th fret of the
instrument. If you plan to do a lot of lead playing on your acoustic or are used to
playing an electric guitar, you may prefer an acoustic with a cutaway.

One guitar brand, Ovation, has had amazing success with a completely different take
on the acoustic guitar. After years of research, Ovation released the Balladeer in
1969. Hailed by some as revolutionary and criticized by guitar purists, the Balladeer
broke with traditional acoustic guitar-making.

This Ovation Celebrity Deluxe Acoustic-Electric (detail) illustrates Ovation's innovative bowl-shaped back.

The first radical change was rather than using a flat back for the guitar, Ovation
developed a rounded, bowl-shaped back. In addition, rather than constructing the
back from wood, Ovation developed a special type of fiberglass called Lyrachord.
Lyrachord is strong, has good reflective properties, and resists changes in
temperature and humidity. Despite their differences from traditional acoustic guitars,
Ovations are still very popular today, more than 35 years after the Balladeer
debuted.

The 12-String Acoustic Guitar

12-string example—the Peavey Briarwood DR-112 (detail).

A 12-string acoustic guitar offers its own unique sound. Though 12 strings may seem
intimidating, in reality a 12-string guitar is played exactly like a 6-string. On a 12-
string, each open string (E, A, D, G, B, E) has a second string right next to it. On the
four top strings (E, A, D, G), the second strings are tuned to the same note but one
octave higher, while on the bottom two strings (B, E), the second strings are
identical in pitch. This creates not only a doubling effect of every note and chord you
play, but an increase in the higher tones thanks to the one-octave-higher bottom
strings.

Acoustic-Electric Guitars

Players who anticipate playing live with their acoustic guitars and want the freedom
to move about while they play may want to consider an acoustic-electric guitar.
Acoustic-electrics use a pickup system that allows you to simply plug into an
amplifier or mixing board rather than having to stand stationary behind a
microphone.

Acoustic-electric example—the Ibanez AEL20E Acoustic-Electric with onboard tuner (detail).

Traditionally, acoustic guitars were amplified by placing a microphone near the

soundhole or by a standard magnetic pickup that spanned the soundhole. While the
former method worked well enough, it limited the performer's range of movement.
The latter method created problems with feedback and didn't always convey an
accurate reproduction of an acoustic's natural sound. In the 1960s Ovation Guitars,
at the behest of Glen Campbell, created an acoustic guitar pickup system that solved
both problems--the piezo pickup.

A piezo pickup is a crystalline structure that senses changes in compression and

emits an electrical signal accordingly. When placed under the saddle, the piezo
detects the vibrations from the strings. Since the electrical signal the piezo creates is
not very strong, a preamp is necessary. Today, most acoustic-electric guitars employ
a setup just like that first Ovation. The preamp is typically located on the side of the
guitar that faces up when playing, and often includes volume and tone controls.
Some preamps even offer built-in tuners.

Other amplification methods are used as well, such as magnetic soundhole pickups,
condenser microphones, and ribbon transducers. While these are gaining in
popularity, piezos are still the most common amplification systems used in acoustic-
electric guitars.

Playability, comfort, and tone

The final things to consider before purchasing an acoustic guitar are personal
decisions. Be sure that the guitar you select is one you're comfortable with, whether
you're sitting or standing while playing. Find a guitar that responds best to the way
you play. And most of all, buy an acoustic guitar that sounds best to your ears.
Whether it's a $3,000 Gibson or a $300 Rogue, you're going to get a lot more
enjoyment from an acoustic guitar that produces the sound you want.

Glossary

Abalone » The hard, internal lining of the giant sea snail's shell. Used for decorative and ornamental
purposes on acoustic guitars, such as fretboard and headstock inlays.

Action » The distance between the frets and the strings of an acoustic guitar.

Attack » The initial sound a note makes when struck, between silence and when the note reaches
maximum volume.

Binding » Strips of wood, plastic, or other material used both to strengthen and enhance the look of an
acoustic guitar's body, neck, and/or headstock.

Bolt-on neck » A guitar neck that is attached to the body with bolts.

Bookmatching » The process of matching two pieces of wood for an acoustic guitar's back or top.
Normally a single piece of wood is butterfly-cut down the middle and the two pieces are joined down the
center of the instrument.

Bout » The curved areas above and below the narrow waist of an acoustic guitar. The curves above the
waist are called the upper bout and those below are called the lower bout.

Bracing » The internal wooden support structure inside an acoustic guitar that gives the instrument
integrity. Well-designed top bracing maximizes the ability of the top to vibrate.
Bridge » On most acoustic guitars, the bridge is a piece of wood placed below the soundhole. It is used to
anchor the strings and transfer their vibrations to the soundboard.

Bridge pins » Fit into the holes on the bridge where the strings go in to anchor them in place. Most often
made of plastic; some are made of ebony.

Capo » A device used to raise the overall pitch of an acoustic guitar. A capo attaches to the neck at a
chosen fret and barres all of the strings. It allows guitarists to play songs in different keys without
changing chord structures.

Cutaway » A guitar body style with a contoured upper bout that allows the player to reach the upper
frets of the guitar more easily.

Decay » The level of volume loss from a note's maximum volume to silence.

Dovetail » A type of interlocking joint used in guitar-making, most often to attach the neck to the body.

Dreadnought » A large-body acoustic guitar originally designed by the Martin guitar company in the early
20th century, named after the large dreadnought battleships of the day.

Figuring » The pattern of a piece of wood's natural grain.

Fingerboard (aka Fretboard) » The playing surface of a guitar neck. Typically a thin piece of wood that
is glued onto the neck, with thin metal strips called frets placed at intervals that divide the neck into half-
step increments.

Finish » The final coating applied to acoustic guitar woods. Flame and quilt are two examples of figuring.

Flame » A characteristic of a wood's appearance that appears to shimmer and move as light strikes it
from different angles. See figuring.

Frets » Thin metal strips placed at intervals on the fretboard to divide it into half-step increments.

Fret markers » Fretboard inlays on an acoustic guitar that serve as a visual reference of the player's
position.

Gig bag » A lightweight, soft, padded case used as a more convenient, temporary way to transport an
acoustic guitar than a hardshell case.

Headstock » The uppermost portion of a guitar neck, where the tuning keys are placed.

Heel » The lowest point of the neck, where it widens to attach to the body.

Inlay » Designs on the fretboard, headstock, or body of an acoustic guitar. Typically the inlay design is
carved into the wood, then filled with one of many materials such as mother-of-pearl, metal, abalone, or
plastic. For purely aesthetic purposes.
Intonation » The relationship of tones on different parts of the fretboard. The note of each string on the
12th fret should match the note of the 12th fret harmonic on the same string. If not, the guitar's
intonation should be adjusted.

Laminated » As opposed to a solid piece of wood used in acoustic guitar-making, a laminated surface is
created by gluing several thin plies of wood together.

Luthier » A woodworker who specializes in making stringed instruments.

Marbling » Often used to describe the natural patterns and color variations of ebony.

Mother-of-pearl » The inside lining of certain mollusks' shells. Typically used for inlays and other
decorative enhancements.

Moustache bridge » A bridge whose shape is reminiscent of a handlebar moustache.

Neck joint » The point where an acoustic guitar's neck joins the body.

Nut » Located at the top of the fretboard, the nut serves to evenly space the strings as they approach the
tuners and transfer vibrations to the neck of the guitar.

Pearloid » A synthetic alternative to mother-of-pearl.

Pick (aka plectrum) » A thin piece of (typically) plastic used to strike the strings of an acoustic guitar.

Pickguard » A thin plate located below the soundhole that protects the guitar's top from scratches that
may occur as a result of picking or strumming the strings.

Pickup » An electronic device that senses the vibrations of the strings and converts it to an electrical
signal for amplification.

Piezo pickup » A crystalline structure that senses changes in compression and converts them to an
electrical signal. Often placed under an acoustic guitar's saddle, the piezo senses the changes in
compression when the strings vibrate. The most common pickup used in acoustic-electric guitars.

Quilted » A visual characteristic of certain tone woods that give it a wavy or folded appearance.

Rosette » A decorative inlay around the soundhole of an acoustic guitar.

Saddle (aka bridge nut) » Like the nut, the saddle spaces the strings at the bridge and, along with the
bridge, transfers the vibration of the strings to the top.

Scale » The total length of the vibrating portion of a string.

Set neck » An acoustic guitar neck that is glued to the body.

Soundboard (aka top) » The piece of wood on the front of an acoustic guitar that is largely responsible
for an acoustic guitar's tone and projection.
Soundhole » The hole in an acoustic guitar's top that aids in projecting the instrument's sound.

Truss rod » A thin, internal rod that runs the length of the neck. Used to adjust the curve of the neck
depending on the tension of the strings being used.

Waist » The narrowest portion of an acoustic guitar's body.