Shark Plush: A Free Sewing Pattern by
Shark Plush: A Free Sewing Pattern by
Shark Plush: A Free Sewing Pattern by
shark plush
Don't go in the water! These cute sharks will
snag you and make you never want to put
makes:
them down! One plush: about 8" long (from nose to tail fin),
These pudgy little predators have a similar 4" wide, and 3½" tall (not including side and
shape to my previous narwhal and dolphin dorsal fin)
plushies, so they make a great set. But that
also means the have very few pieces and are
quick to put together. skills used:
Included are templates to make a classic baby
• Fusible web applique
shark with a simple eye or an anime style
• Curved sewing
eye to copy the tsundere shark meme. Both
• Basting
versions have a big toothy grin.
• Darts
• Ladder stitch
difficulty: • Sewing curves
• Y-seams; gussets
The hardest part of this plush is likely sewing
the belly, which ends at a point near the tail.
This technically makes it a y-seam and a
gusset, so if you're new to these techniques,
this is a great way to get acquainted with them!
suggested fabrics:
Plush, stretchy fabrics such as fleece or minky
faux fur are suggested. The variations of fleece and minky
mentioned to the left would work well, but really
any plushy fabric with a bit of stretch on the cross-
minky wise grain would be well-suited.
Stretch fabrics like fleece or minky will create
a more squat, round shape when stuffed.
Non-stretchy fabrics, like felt or cotton, won’t
cuddle fleece stretch when stuffed so the resulting plush will look
elongated as shown.
anti-pill fleece
fleece
1 2 3
At the print dialog box, check the box Print the pages needed for the file. You It’s likely your printer will have a
that says print at “Actual Size” or 100%. might have one or more. Either way, margin that ensures your image
Any other selection (such as “Fit to be sure you have the full collection by doesn’t print to the very edge.
page”) will distort the pattern so it’s noting the page numbers in the corner. Assembly will be easier if you trim off
slightly larger or smaller and we don’t this blank margin edge. This will give
want that. you pages that overlap slightly during
assembly. If you trim across the gray
outline boxes, this will give you pages
that don’t overlap but rather butt
against each other.
4 5
To line up the pattern pages, match up the corresponding You can trace the patterns onto a different paper, or you can
diamond shapes. Each diamond will have a letter, so it’s also just cut them straight from the printer paper -- be sure
simply a matter of matching A1 to A2, B3 to B4 and so on. that each piece is fully taped together along the joins so
The faint gray lines indicate the border of every page, you they don’t fall apart when you cut them.
should be able to line those up as well. When the diamond
goes together, tape it in place.
If you have many pages, it’s easier to tape up the pages into
rows first. Then tape the rows together into a full block.
1 2 3 4
Place pattern on the fabric, Pin the pattern in place, use Using the paper as a For all fur fabrics, shake the
and make sure the stretch pattern weights, or trace the template, cut out the fabric. excess fuzz away.
line matches the stretch outline of the pattern with a Cut the required amount
of the fabric. The nap line washable marker. according to the pattern.
should go in the direction of
the fur.
cutting layout:
body fabric STRE TCH
ST RETC H belly fabric
1/3 yd.; 12” long
¼ yd.; 9” long
B D
A A B C D
NAP
NAP
D
D 8” wide
16” wide
hold applique
while pulling
paper away
classic
eye:
fuse eyes
first
add smaller
pieces next
2. fuse the applique
a. Fuse the eyes in place with your iron (use a press cloth -- such
tip:
as a scrap piece of cotton -- if you’re using a polyester or fur
fabric like minky).
b. Next, move onto the blush and gill pieces (if using). Fuse them If the eye shines are too small for
you to stitch, you can also use a
much the same way as you did the eyes, using the paper
bit of white fabric paint!
pattern and photos as a guide. Repeat with the other eye and
the other body piece.
If you used heavy duty fusible web, you can keep the pieces fused without sewing, or you can sew
them in place a number of ways. I’ve used a zigzag stitch here.
→→ Refer to the next step for some other applique options.
4
2
straight stitch; applique 3
great for felt whipstitch 1
open up
body pieces
7. sew the body back
a. Grab your remaining body piece (A). Align it over the first with right sides facing and raw edges
matching up.
b. If you haven't already, locate the opening for turning marking on the paper pattern for the body (A).
Transfer it over to the wrong side of the fabric -- or just mark a 2-3" area between the dorsal fin and
the tail.
Sew the body pieces together from the tip of the nose to the base of the tail. This is marked with a
circle on the pattern if you need help. Skip over the area you marked so the body can be turned later.
c. When complete, open up the body pieces so it can be sewn to the belly next!
trim seam
allowance
at tip
match up
body fabric to
belly fabric leave open
for turning
The excess thread should sink back inside the plush -- all hidden!
congrats!
this completes
your plush! Now
give it a big
hug!
ing
trace & cut
2 of black
itch
psto
th t
tee
EYE SHINE SMILE
applique applique
trace & cut trace & cut
2 of white NAP 1 from white
dors
t al fin
en plac
eme
em nt A1 A2
plac
in
lf
sa
dor ope
nin
g for
turn
sh
ing
Shark PluR N
E
P A T T ig h t.co m
applique w w w.c holykn
placement BODYma(inAfa) bric
Cut 2 from llowance
¼” seam a
STRETCH
NAP
/2 pg. 2/2
LASHED EYES
applique
trace & cut
EYE SHINE 1 each of black
applique
trace & cut
2 each of
white
EYEBROW &
GILL nose
applique end
trace & cut
8 of black
applique
BLUSH
applique placement
trace & cut
2 of pink
STRETCH
Shark Plush
ent
sid
P A T T E R N
e
cem
A1 A2 www.cholyknight.com
fin
pla
pla
BELLY (C)
cem
fin
ent
sid
¼” seam allowance
NAP
tail
end