1. Explain the various elements of woven design with an example?

BASIC ELEMENT OF WOVEN DESIGN:

The three basic elements of woven design are:

1.  Design
2.  Draft or drawing plan
3.  Peg or lifting plan

The design indicates the interlacement of warp and weft threads in the repeat of
the design. It is made up of a number of squares, which constitute the repeat size of
a design. The vertical direction of the squares indicates the picks and the horizontal
direction indicates the ends. A blank in a square indicates that a warp goes below
the corresponding weft and ‘X’ mark in the square indicates that the warp floats
above the weft.

The draft or drawing plan indicates the manner of drawing the ends through the
held eyes and it also denotes the number of held shaft required for a given weave
repeat. The choice of the type of drafting plan depends upon the type of fabric
woven.

The peg or lifting plan provides useful information to the weaver. It denotes the
order of lifting of held shafts. In a peg plan the vertical spaces indicate the held
shafts and the horizontal spaces indicate the picks. The peg plan depends upon the
drafting plan. In the case of a straight draft, the peg plan will be the same as the
design. Hence no peg plan is necessary in the case of a straight draft. 
The design, draft a d peg plan are illustrated with the aid of an example shown
below
2. Mention the basic characteristics of plain weave?

PLAIN WEAVE:

The plain weave is variously known as “calico” or “tabby” weaves. It is the

simplest of all weaves having a repeat size of 2. The range of application of this
weave is wide.
The plain weave has the following characteristics:

 It has the maximum number of binding points

 The threads interlace on alternate order of 1 up and 1 down.
 The thread density is limited
 Cloth thickness and mass per unit area are limited.
 It produces a relatively stronger fabric that is obtained by any other simple
combination of threads, excepting that of “gauze “or “cross weaving”.

The principle involved in the construction of plain cloth is the interlacement of any
two continuous threads either warps or weft in an exactly contrary manner to each
other, with every thread in each series passing alternately under and over
consecutive threads of other series interlaces uniformly throughout the fabric. By
this plan of interlacement, every thread in each series interlaces with every thread
in the other series to the maximum extent, thereby producing a comparatively firm
and strong texture of cloth. A complete unit of the plain weave occupies only two
warp threads and two picks of weft, which is the design for that weave.

Plain or Tabby Weave

The plain weave may be modified by extending it warp or weft way or both. The
extension of the plain weave thus produces a rib effect. A warp rib results from
extending the plain weave in the warp direction and a weft rib structure results
from extending the plain weave in the weft direction. A matt rib results from
extending the plain weave in both directions.

The chart below shows the derivatives/modifications of plain weave:

3. Define warp rib, weft rib and matt rib?

WARP RIB WEAVE:

These are produced by extending the plain weave in warp wary direction. The
following example shows the warp rib weaves constructed on regular and irregular
basis.

Warp rib weaves may be described as plain weave in which two or more picks are
inserted in the same shed. Warp rib weaves are normally used in warp faced
constructions. The warp cover factor and the warp crimp are substantially higher
than the weft cover factor and the weft crimp. The intention is to produce fabrics
with prominent weft-way rib formed by the crowns of the warp threads.

In the regular warp rib, the number of warp yarn is the same in each line while the
number of warp yarn is not the same in the irregular warp rib. For that, the
structure creates the floating characteristics on the fabric so that fabrics are more
comfortable than the basic plain weave cloth.

Features of warp rib:

1.Warp rib can produce ribs or cords in the weft direction.
2. The quality of warp yarn is higher than weft yarn.
3. The number of ends is higher than picks in a unit space. Then, yarn having same
count may be used.
4. Two or more weft yarns pass over or under a warp.
5. Weft yarns are low twisted yarn.
6. The design uses two held shafts.
7. Mercerized yarns are used.
8. Warp rib is mainly used in warp faced construction, such as Poplin fabric.

Example
WEFT RIB WEAVES:

These are constructed by extending the plain weave in weft direction in both the
warp and weft rib weaves, the appearance of the cloth depends on the respective
thread settings, and to achieve good effects, it is necessary to weave a weft rib with
a high number of picks per inch and a comparatively low number of ends per inch.
Similarly the warp rib effect can be enhanced with a high number of ends per inch
and a comparatively low number of picks per inch. The prominence of the rib can
be increased by suitable use of coarse and fine yarns. The dependence of all rib
constructions upon the correct thread settings is marked.

In other words Weft rib may be described as plain weave in which two or more
ends weave together as one. It is difficult to achieve very high weft cover factors in
weft faced plain-weave cloths. By using two finer ends weaving as one, it becomes
possible to achieve higher weft cover factor. Such cloths are expensive to weave
and not very common

Features of weft rib: The characteristics of warp rib are different from the weft
rib
1.Weft rib produces ribs or cords in the warp direction.
2. In general, the yarn of weft rib is better than warp.
3. The number of picks is more than the number of ends in a unit space, then yarn
of same count may be used.
4. Two or more warp yarns pass through a weft yarn.
5. Two held shafts are used.
6. Weft rib is used for producing blankets and hair cords, etc.
   Uses:

Weft Rib weaves are used in gross grain cloths, meatless fabrics; rip cloth which is
extensively employed for window blinds in railway carriages and other vehicles,
upholstering furniture, and cambric picket handkerchief.

MATT RIB WEAVE:

These weaves are also variously known as hopsack or basket weaves. The matt rib
structures result from extending the plain weave in both directions. The simplest
and commonest of these weave is 2/2 matt.

Feature of Matt Rib Weave:

1. The Matt rib structures result from extending the plain weave in both
directions.
2. In case of regular Matt rib the plain weave extended equally in the warp
and weft direction.
3. In case of irregular Matt rib the plain weave is extended unevenly in the
warp and weft direction.
4. The Matt rib weave cloth has a greater resistance to tearing.
5. Matt rib tends to give smooth surface fabric.
6. In the repeat size of the Matt weave the numbers of warp and weft yarns
are equal.
7. There are four types of Matt weave, such as Regular, Irregular, Stitch and
Fancy Matt.
In case of regular matt weave, the plain weaves are extended equally in the warp
and weft directions, where as in case of irregular matt weaves, the plain weave is
extended unevenly or irregularly in the warp and weft directions.

Uses:

Matt weave finds extensive uses for a great variety of fabrics such as dress
materials, shirting, sailcloth, duck cloth

4. Mention the various types of drafts

A draft indicates the number of held shafts used to produce a given design and the
order is which warp ends are threaded through the head eyes of the held shaft. The
principle of drafting (i.e. putting of ends on different healed shafts) is that ends
which work in different order requires separate held shafts. To keep matters
simple, we can also say that the ends that work alike are put on the same held shaft.

Types of Draft Plans

The various drafts are classified as follows:

1. Skip Draft
2. Broken Draft
3. Pointed Draft
4. Grouped Draft
5. Combined Draft
6. Straight Draft
7. Satin draft
8. Divided draft
9. Curved draft

1. Skip Draft:

The skip draft is suitable for weaving fabrics having heavy warp thread density. In
this kind of draft plan, the number of held frames may be twice or more than the
minimum required for a weave. The purpose of using more held frames than the
minimum recommended is only to distribute the warp threads more uniformly so
as to prevent abrasion of the threads due to overcrowding.
The held frames are divided into two groups. All even numbered warp threads are
drawn through the first group of held frames and all odd numbered warp ends are
drawn through the second group of held frames.

The sateen draft serves the same purpose as the skip draft. A skip draft is normally
employed for weaves such as plain and twill up to a repeat of 4. Whereas the
sateen draft is used for weaves having repeat size of more than 5.

2. Broken Draft:

A broken draft almost resembles the pointed draft. However, the pointed effect is
broken. This type of draft is suitable for weaves such as herringbone twills.

 This draft also referred to as herringbone draft.

 This draft can be considered as a modified pointed draft.
 This is a combination of straight drafts with different directions
constrictions.
 The reversal of direction is not on the last or the first shaft as in pointed or
V-draft.
  When the direction is reversed the first thread of the next group is started
higher or lower than the thread the thread of proceeding group.
 Used for producing herringbone twills, diaper design etc.

3. Pointed Draft:

This is similar to a straight draft. It is suitable for weaves such as pointed twill,
diamond weaves and ordinary types of honeycombs. The straight draft is reversed
after half the repeat warps way. The number of held shafts is about half the repeat
size of the weave.
4. Grouped Drafts:

These drafts are employed for the production of stripe and check designs, in which
the stripes have different weaves or their combinations. This draft is used for
producing the fabric with two different stripes. The repeat of the draft is
determined by the number of stripes and the number of threads in each stripe. The
number of shafts in the draft depends upon the number of stripes and the warp
repeat of the weave of each stripe.

5. Combined Draft:

Various methods of drawing it can be combined in one draft for producing a

certain type of fabric. Two or more drafts described above can be applied
simultaneously, for example, straight and skip or sateen, grouped and curved, and
so on. The combined draft is the most complicated and can be chosen only if there
are some technological or economic reasons. The designer has a great experience
can do it properly.
6. Straight Draft:

This is the most commonly used draft. It is the simplest of all the types of draft
plans. In this kind of draft, the drafting order progresses successively from first to
the last held frame. Thus the first warp end of a weave is drawn through the first
held shaft, the second warp through the second held frame and so on.

One important feature of the straight draft that distinguishes it from other types of
draft plans is that the peg or lifting plan is same as the design. Hence it is sufficient
to indicate only the design.

 This draft is the simplest types of draft where individual warp yarn in a
repeat is place in individual held frame.

 Number of held shaft is equal to the number of warp yarn in the repeat.
 Lifting plan is the same as design.
 Used in twill and satin design. 
7. Satin draft:
  This draft is largely used for satin weaves.
  This draft avoids friction in very densely set warps.
8. Divided draft:
 The raft is employed for derived waves, double warp weaves, two ply weaves, pile
weaves and some others. In this draft, the shafts are divided into two or more
groups. A suitable type of draft is chosen for each group.

10. Curved draft: 

 This draft is applied for fancy weave with large warp repeat unit.
 It is used to reduce the number of held shafts.
 Curved drafts are irregular and cannot be classified.
 The minimal number of held shaft equals the numbers of threads in warp
repeat with different order of interlacing.
 The drawing in is done applying the rule all warp threads which works alike
are drawn on the same held shaft.
 4. When skip drafts are used?

Features of skip draft:

1.Skip draft is used for weaving the fabric having high density of warp threads and
the same structure.
2. In this drafting system2, 4 or 6 held shafts are used.
3. It enables to decrease the density of held on each shaft and reduce the friction of
threads against thread and thread against held.
4. Skip draft is used in plain weave.

2/3 warp rib 5/5 warp rib

x
x

x
x
x x
x x
x x
x x
x x x x
x x x x
x x x x
x x x x
x x x x
x x
4/2 weft rib,

x x
x x x x

x x x
x x x x

6/3 weft rib,

x x x
x x x x x x

x x x x
x x x x x x

4/4 matt rib

x x x x

x x x x
 x x x x
x x x x
x x x x x
x x x x
x x x x
x x x x
x x x x
x x x x

2/4 matt rib

x x x x
x x
 x x x x
x x x x
x
x x x x
x x x x
x x
x x

4/3 matt rib

x x x
x x x x

x x x
x x x
x x x x
x x x x
x x x x
x x x x
x x x x
x