™

IN
DE
MAA
US

WARRANTY..... Top Flite Models guarantees this kit to be free of defects in both
materials and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts
damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Top Flite’s liability exceed the original cost of the
purchased kit. Further, Top Flite reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.
In that Top Flite has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no
liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final Top Flite Models
user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product the user accepts all
resulting liability. P.O. Box 788
Urbana, IL 61801
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the
buyer is advised to immediately return this kit in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.
Technical Assistance - Call (217) 398-8970

READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOK FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.

Entire Contents © Copyright 2002 P476P03 V2.1

 TABLE OF CONTENTS
Introduction .........................................................3 Razorback ....................................................16 Balance the airplane Laterally .........................46
About the airfoils.................................................3 Bubble Canopy.............................................17 Finishing ............................................................46
Precautions..........................................................3 Glue the stabilizer and fin to the fuselage ... 18 Covering ..........................................................46
Decisions you must make early in the building Complete The Fuse Top Razorback ............19 Recommended Covering Sequence................47
process ................................................................4 Complete The Fuse Top Bubble Canopy .....20 Apply the decals ..............................................47
Engine selection ................................................4 Final fit the canopy Razorback .....................20 Apply panel lines to the model.........................48
Razorback or Bubble canopy ............................4 Final fit the canopy Bubble Canopy .............20 Painting............................................................48
Retracts or fixed gear ........................................4 Final steps before framing the lower fuse........21 Hinging ............................................................48
Wheel selection .................................................4 Frame the fuse bottom ....................................21
Flaps..................................................................4 Tail Gear Installation ...................................22 Final Assembly..................................................49
Fit the intercooler air exits ............................24 Retracts ...........................................................49
Top Flite Scale Accessories...............................5 Sheet the fuse bottom ..................................25 Cockpit finishing ..............................................50
Scale Cockpit Interior ........................................5 Install the engine .............................................26 Optional cockpit interior ...................................50
Replica Radial Engine .......................................5 Install servo tray ..............................................27 Add the molded scale details...........................50
Static Display Prop ............................................5 Build the wing....................................................28 Install receiver, switch and battery ..................51
Drop Tanks ........................................................5 Preparation ......................................................28 Final hookups and checks ...............................51
Notes for the competition Minded modelers Retract modification for Century Jet Retracts..28 Control surface throws.....................................51
and deviations from scale ..................................5 Build the wing panels.......................................29 Balance your model.........................................52
Documentation ....................................................5 Join the wing panels ........................................33
Other Items required...........................................5 Preparations before adding bottom Preflight..............................................................52
Optional .............................................................5 wing sheeting...................................................34 Charge batteries ..............................................52
Suggested Supplies and Sheet the bottom of the wing...........................34 Find a safe place to fly.....................................52
Tools .................................................................6 Prepare the wing for the top sheeting..............35 Ground check the model .................................52
Die-Cut Patterns Page ...................................7-8 Sheet the top of the wing.................................37 Range check your radio...................................52
Common Abbreviations Used in the Build the flaps ..................................................38 Engine safety precautions ...............................52
Book and on the plans.......................................9 Fit the flaps ......................................................39
Metric Conversion Chart....................................9 Build the ailerons .............................................40
Types Of Wood..................................................9 Mount the wing to the fuse...............................41 AMA Safety code...............................................53
Get Ready to build.............................................9 Build the wing fillet...........................................42
Build the wing belly pan...................................43 Flying..................................................................53
Build the Tail Surfaces .......................................9 Sheet the belly pan..........................................44 Takeoff.............................................................53
Build the stabilizer and elevators.......................9 Build and fit the cowl ........................................45 Flying ...............................................................54
Build the fin and rudder ...................................13 Finish preparation.............................................46 Landing............................................................54
Build the Fuselage ............................................15 Final sanding ..................................................46
Top Frame Assembly ......................................15 Fuelproofing.....................................................46 Three-view drawing – Back cover

Inch Scale
0" 1" 2" 3" 4" 5" 6" 7"

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 120 130 140 150 160 170 180

Metric Scale

-2-
 PROTECT YOUR MODEL, INTRODUCTION Dave set out to develop a list of parameters;
things such as... stall speed, root chord, tip chord
YOURSELF & OTHERS – FOLLOW and thickness, while making sure there would be
Thank you for purchasing the Top Flite GOLD
THIS IMPORTANT SAFETY EDITION P-47 Thunderbolt. adequate room for retracts, compatibility with flaps,
PRECAUTION spars, etc. These restraints were sent to Mike, so
The P-47 has long been recognized as an he could design an airfoil around them. Mike used
Your P-47 Thunderbolt is not a toy, but rather a computer, with the latest low speed airfoil design
excellent modeling subject. The wing plan form,
a sophisticated, working model that functions very code to fine tune each airfoil’s shape.
long tail moment and generous tail areas give the
much like an actual airplane. P-47 modeler an excellent starting point. Top Flite The result is a root (S8036) and tip (S8037)
Because of its performance, the Thunderbolt, if builds on these features with custom airfoils, 2-1/2 airfoil specifically designed for the needs of a
not assembled and operated correctly, could degrees of washout in the wing and 2-1/2 degrees warbird like the P-47. We couldn’t be happier with
possibly cause injury to yourself or spectators and of right thrust. Top Flite’s advanced 3-D computer the results.
damage property. engineering and interlocking construction
techniques combined with additional wing sheeting Please inspect all parts carefully before
To make your R/C modeling experience jigs help you build a straight, lightweight model. starting to build! If any parts are missing, broken
totally enjoyable, we recommend that you get The result is a model warbird with exceptional or defective, or if you have any questions about
experienced, knowledgeable help with flight characteristics. The Top Flite P-47D is building or flying this model, please call us at
assembly and during your first flights. You’ll smooth and forgiving both around the runway and (217) 398-8970 and we’ll be glad to help. If you
learn faster and avoid risking your model before in high speed, high “G” flight. are calling for replacement parts, please look up
you’re truly ready to solo. Your local hobby shop the part numbers and the kit identification
Although this is a scale warbird with plenty of number (stamped on the end of the carton) and
has information about flying clubs in your area
detail, the builder can expect surprising results have them ready when calling.
whose membership includes qualified instructors.
because both the wing and fuse structure frame
You can also contact the national Academy of up so fast. There is lots of sheeting to do over the
Model Aeronautics (AMA), which has more than quickly framed structure but patterns are provided
2,300 chartered clubs across the country. Through with hints on how to prepare the sheets. When you
any one of them, instructor training programs and show up at the flying field with the Top Flite Gold
insured newcomer training are available. Edition P-47 your friends will see an “all out,” scale
warbird but you’ll recall a straightforward building PRECAUTIONS
Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free project with no complications (but you can keep
phone number below: that a secret). Top Flite’s CAD designed structure 1. You must build the plane according to the
plans and instructions. Do not alter or modify
with interlocking parts and traditional wood
the model, as doing so may result in an unsafe or
construction make this possible.
unflyable model. In a few cases the plans and
instructions may differ slightly from the
photos. In those instances you should assume
the plans and written instructions are correct.
ABOUT THE AIRFOILS
Top Flite Design Engineer, David J. Ribbe, 2. You must take time to build straight, true
and Low Speed Airfoil Expert, Dr. Michael Selig, and strong.
sat down over pizza to discuss what areas of the 3. You must use a proper R/C radio that is in first-
Academy of Model Aeronautics model aircraft market could benefit from better class condition, the correct-sized engine and
5151 East Memorial Drive airfoils. One area that was identified was model correct components (fuel tank, wheels, etc.)
Muncie, IN 47302-9252 warbirds as they tend to have more wing taper throughout your building process.
Telephone: (800) 435-9262 and higher wing loading than most sport/aerobatic
Fax: (317) 741-0057 models. A warbird would benefit from a set of 4. You must properly install all R/C and other
airfoils that had better lift for a slower stall speed components so that the model operates properly
and smooth, gentle stall characteristics. on the ground and in the air.

-3-
5. You must test the operation of the model A .61-size Schnurle-ported engine will also provide to install retracts, there are the two types – wire-
before the first and each successive flight to
insure that all equipment is operating and you plenty of power for your P-47 – especially if mostly and-coil or rigid struts with an oleo. Standard
must make certain that the model has remained scale flying is in your repertoire. 1.20 4-stroke wire struts absorb more shock on rough landings
structurally sound. Be sure to check external engines should be reserved for proficient flyers and are less stressful to the airframe while the
nylon clevises often and replace them if they show who can handle a model with a higher wing oleo struts offer greater scale appearance. The
signs of wear. loading and are used to the high torque standard setup uses the Robart 606 HD
6.You must fly the model only with the tendencies of such engines (lots of right rudder pneumatic system with 3/16” wire. Robart 650
competent help of a well-experienced R/C pilot if on takeoff). oleo struts may be used and can be purchased
you are not already an experienced R/C pilot at
The included adjustable engine mount will separately. Century Jet Models also offers the
this time.
hold a range of engines from a .61 2-stroke TF P-47 pneumatic retract package with oleo
Remember: Take your time, follow directions to struts. See the “Other Items Required” section
through 1.20 4-stroke.
end up with a well-built model that is straight
A special Top Flite header and muffler is and the “Retract Installation” section of the
and true.
available that will fit inside your cowling. They manual for more information.
NOTE: We, as the kit manufacturer, can provide are designed for 2-stroke engines as used on
you with a top quality kit and great instructions, our prototype:
but ultimately the quality and performance of WHEEL SELECTION
Header for O.S .61SF (TOPQ7920)
your finished model depends on how you build
it. Therefore, we cannot in any way guarantee Header for Super Tigre S61K-S75K (TOPQ7925) Scale tire size for the P-47 is over 4" but we
the performance of your completed model, and Header for Super Tigre G75 (TOPQ7926) recommend 3-1/2" wheels. 3-3/4" Wheels will
no representations are expressed or implied as Muffler for above (TOPQ7915) retract into the wing if extra care is taken
to the performance or safety of your completed during construction.
model aircraft. RAZORBACK OR BUBBLE
CANOPY VERSION
FLAPS
Your Top Flite Gold Edition P-47D
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE EARLY
Thunderbolt kit includes the parts and This model is designed to incorporate scale
IN THE BUILDING PROCESS
instructions to build either the P-47D-23 known flaps; however, be assured that flaps are
as the “Razorback,” or the P-47D-25 “Bubble optional and not necessary for an excellent
ENGINE SELECTION Canopy” version. However, only the Razorback flying experience. The only difference is, without
The recommended engine range is as follows: canopy is included in the kit so if you decide to flaps, the takeoff roll is a little longer and the
.61 to .90 cu. in. 2-stroke build the Bubble Canopy version, all you need to landing speed is slightly faster.
.91 to .120 cu. in. 4-stroke do is purchase the canopy set, which is offered The flaps are not difficult to assemble, but
The P-47 Thunderbolt will fly well with any of the separately (TOPA1616). You do not need to they do require good craftsmanship if they are to
recommended engines. The 4-stroke engines and make this decision until about halfway through fit well. They add nicely to the model’s flight
most .90 2-stroke engines will turn a larger prop at fuselage construction. characteristics and scale appearance. Only
lower rpm’s. This is often desirable for scale slight trim correction is needed when flaps are
realism. If you use a .61 2-stroke, a Schnuerle- RETRACTS OR FIXED GEAR deployed with the recommended throws. Flaps
ported engine is preferred. The prototype P-47,
The choice of retractable or fixed landing add drag and lift to the model on landing
weighing 10 pounds with all of the options including
flaps, retractable landing gear and a releasable 108 gear is yours. Retracts, once again, add to the approaches, which gives the plane a very
gallon (scale of course) drop tank, was first flown “presence” of your model in the air and really get steady, locked-in feel. The flaps require one
with the Super Tigre S-75K. This proved to be the the attention of fellow modelers (and spectators). extra channel, a Y-harness and two standard
ideal size for a two-stroke power plant – large Instructions are included for either option and servos. They are a highly recommended fun
enough to provide plenty of reserve power for are quite detailed for retract installation so no option for those who wish to install them. More
aerobatics and sport flying, yet small enough to difficulty should be expected. Should you decide information on the use of the flaps may be found
represent scale speeds when throttled back a little. in the “Flying” section.

-4-
TOP FLITE SCALE ACCESSORIES OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED
NOTES FOR THE COMPETITION-
MINDED MODELERS AND Item numbers (GPMQ4130) are suggested part
SCALE COCKPIT INTERIOR: Another exciting
option made specifically for your Top Flite Gold
DEVIATIONS FROM SCALE numbers recognized by distributors and hobby
Edition P-47 is the Scale Cockpit Interior. It goes shops and are listed for your ordering
without saying (we’ll say it anyway) that a full The P-47D-23 Razorback was instrumental convenience. TOP is the Top Flite brand, GPM is
cockpit interior really adds to the realism and in turning the tide of WWII. It was escorting the Great Planes brand and HCA is the prefix for
overall appearance of your model. Since it is bombers to targets before the longer ranged the Hobbico brand.
made for the P-47, installation is easy. This can Mustangs appeared in significant numbers.
be done about 3/4 of the way through fuselage The “Bonnie” trim scheme shown on the box ❏ 4 to 7 channel radio with 5 to 8 servos.
construction or it may be saved until after was done with MonoKote film and the decals ❏ 6" Aileron servo extension cords – Futaba J
covering is finished. We urge you to take supplied in the kit. HCAM2000
advantage of this option as rarely do you find ❏ Engine (see page 4)
such details offered by the manufacturer The main landing gear is simplified. They ❏ Propellers (see engine instruction manual for
specifically for their own model. Instructions for
pivot at the scale location, but the wells are proper propeller sizes)
painting and finishing are included with the
cockpit kit (TOPQ8405). moved forward, slightly ahead of the main spar. ❏ 14 oz. Fuel Tank – GPMQ4106
The model’s tires (3-1/2" to 3-3/4") are smaller ❏ 3-1/2" Main Wheels – Robart ROBQ1535
REPLICA RADIAL ENGINE: A final touch of than scale in order to fit into the space provided, ❏ 1-1/4" tailwheel – GPMQ4242
scale realism is possible by installing the but the stance on the ground is scale. ❏ 3/16" Wheel Collars – GPMQ4308, pkg. of 4
specially designed 9-cylinder replica radial ❏ 3/32" Wheel Collars – GPMQ4302, pkg. of 4
engine inside the cowl. The replica radial adds
significantly to the look of the model and, when
The elevator and rudder hinge lines have ❏ Top Flite MonoKote covering, 3 rolls (see
backed up by 1/8" lite-ply, doubles as a cooling been modified in order to simplify assembly and Finishing section)
baffle for the real engine. Made from vacuum- use standard model hinging techniques. ❏ Paint (see Finishing section)
formed ABS, the replica radial is easy to ❏ Medium Silicone Fuel Tubing – GPMQ4131
assemble and can be modified to suit any The true scale factor of the Top Flite P-47 is ❏ 1/2" Latex Foam Rubber Padding – HCAQ1050
engine installation (TOPQ7902). 1:7.77, or approximately 1/8. ❏ Flexible cable throttle pushrod – GPMQ3700
-or-
DROP TANKS: To increase its range, the P-47 ❏ 1/16" x 12" threaded-end pushrod
used one or more drop tanks. With the 108
gallon “Paper” Tank (TOPQ7899) and/or the 75 DOCUMENTATION OPTIONAL
gallon Tank (TOPQ7900) you can give the P-47 For Flaps:
that business-like “loaded down” look and add Following are some of the books that are ❏ Hobbico “Y” Harness (Fut J) – HCAM2500
even further to the scale realism. The release available showing various details of the P-47: -or-
mechanism is included with the tanks so they ❏ Futaba Dual Servo Extension – FUTM4130
can be made releasable in flight or may be Thunderbolt – A Documentary History of the ❏ 6 Pcs. Robart #309 Super Hinge Points large
manually disconnected. Scale pylons are Republic P-47, Roger A. Freeman. – ROBQ2509, pkg. of 6
included for the outboard Wing Tanks.
Contains the excellent 5-view drawings that
the Top Flite P-47 was designed around. It also For Retractable Landing Gear:
contains many photos and historical information. ❏ Robart #606 85° HD Pneumatic Retracts –
ROBQ0006
P-47 Thunderbolt – In Action, Squadron/Signal ❏ Robart #188 Air Control Kit – ROBQ2388
Features “Bonnie” on the cover and includes ❏ Robart #164G Hand Pump – ROBQ2363
3-views and many photos and illustrations. ❏ 3 Pcs. Robart #190 Quick Connectors
– ROBQ2395 pkg. of 2

-5-
❏ Robart #650 Straight Robostruts – ROBQ1700 ❏ Single Edge Razor Blades – HCAR0312
(optional) ❏ Razor Saw
❏ Robart #189Air Restrictor Set – ROBQ2389 ❏ Common pliers
(optional) ❏ Screwdrivers (Phillips and flat head)
-or- ❏ Robart Super Stand – ROBQ1401
❏ Century Jet Models Retracts ❏ T-Pins – HCAR5100 small, HCAR5150 On our workbench, we have four 11" Great
❏ Top Flite Header & In Cowl Muffler (See page Planes® Easy-Touch™ Bar Sanders, equipped
medium, HCAR5200 large
4 for description) with #50, #80, #150 and #220-grit sandpaper.
❏ Scale Pilot figure (1/6 Scale Williams Brothers ❏ Straightedge–Fourmost Non-Slip – FORR2149
❏ 3/4 oz. Fiberglass Cloth – HCAR5000 (Optional) This setup is all that is required for almost any
WBRQ2472 Military or WBRQ2476 Standard) sanding task. Custom sanding blocks can be
❏ Fuel Filler Valve – GPMQ4160 ❏ Masking Tape
made from balsa for sanding hard to reach
❏ Fuel Filter – GPMQ4250 ❏ Sandpaper (see Hot Tip on this page)
spots. We also keep some #320-grit wet-or-dry
❏ Top Flite 75 Gal. Drop Tank(s) – TOPQ7900 ❏ Easy-Touch™ Bar Sanders – GPMR1670 sandpaper handy for finish sanding before
❏ Top Flite 108 Gal. Drop Tank – TOPQ7899 ❏ Waxed Paper covering.
❏ Sullivan #507 Gold-N-Rod for releasable drop ❏ HobbyLite™ Balsa Filler – HCAR3401
tanks – SULQ3007 ❏ 1/8", 3/16", 1/4", 7/32" brass tube (optional)
❏ Screw-Lock Pushrod Connectors – GPMQ3870 ❏ Tap wrench
(optional) ❏ 1/4-20 Tap w/drill bit – GPMR8105
❏ Switch & Charge Jack Mount – GPMM1000 ❏ 8-32 Tap w/drill bit – GPMR8103
❏ Top Flite Cockpit Interior Kit – TOPQ8405
❏ Denatured or Isopropyl Alcohol
❏ Top Flite 1/8th Scale Replica Radial Engine –
TOPQ7902 ❏ Dremel ® Moto-Tool ™ or similar w/sanding
❏ #4x1/2 Button head screw – GPMQ3124 drum, cutting burr, cut off wrench (optional)
❏ 9/64" ball end hex wrench – GPMR8004
SUGGESTED SUPPLIES AND TOOLS ❏ Kyosho® Curved Scissors – KYOR1010
We recommend Top Flite Supreme™ CA and Epoxy ❏ Razor Plane – MASR1510 Great Planes Easy-Touch Bar Sanders are
❏ 2 oz.CA (Thin) – TOPR1003 ❏ String made from lightweight extruded aluminum and
❏ 2 oz. CA+ (Medium) – TOPR1008 ❏ Auto body filler (Bondo® or similar) can be found at most hobby shops. They are
❏ 1 oz. CA- (Thick) – TOPR1011 ❏ 3M #75 Repositionable Spray Adhesive available in two sizes – 11" (GPMR6170) for
most general purpose sanding and 22"
❏ CA Applicator Tips – HCAR3780 (GPMR6172) for long surfaces such as wing
❏ CA Accelerator – TOPR1025 Drill Bits: ❏ 1/16" ❏ 3/16"
❏ 5/64" ❏ 7/32" leading edges. We recommend using the 2"
❏ 6-Minute Epoxy – TOPR1040 wide self adhesive sandpaper sold in 12' rolls by
❏ 30-Minute Epoxy – TOPR1043 ❏ 1/8" ❏ 15/64"
Great Planes. Standard sandpaper can be
❏ Wood Glue – GPMR6160 (optional) ❏ 9/64" ❏ 1/4"
attached by gluing it to the sander with brush-on
❏ Pacer Z-560 Canopy Glue – PAAR3300 (optional) ❏ 17/64" rubber cement. Apply the rubber cement to both
❏ Hand or Electric Drill the bottom of the sander and the back of the
❏ Silver Solder w/flux – GPMR8070 sandpaper. When both surfaces are dry to the
❏ Sealing Iron – TOPR2100 touch, press the sandpaper firmly onto the
❏ Heat Gun – TOPR2000 (optional) sander. Spray adhesive can be used for this
❏ Hot Sock – TOPR2175 (optional) purpose but it’s much harder to remove the
sandpaper when you need to replace it. Use
❏ Trim Seal Tool™ – TOPR2200 (optional)
a knife blade for cutting sandpaper, not your
❏ #1 Knife handle – XACR4305 good scissors!
❏ #11 Blades (100 qty.) – HCAR0311

-6-
-7-
-8-
COMMON ABBREVIATIONS USED IN TYPES OF WOOD: BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES
THIS BOOK AND ON THE PLANS:
BUILD THE STABILIZER AND ELEVATORS
Deg = Degrees
Fuse = Fuselage ❏ 1. Always build on a flat surface. Refer to the
LE = Leading Edge (front) plans to identify the parts and their locations. The
LG = Landing Gear plans may be cut apart if space is a problem. Tape
Lt = Left Balsa Basswood Ply them to your building board and cover them with
Ply = Plywood waxed paper.
Rt = Right
GET READY TO BUILD
Stab = Stabilizer
❏ 1. Unroll the plan sheets. Reroll the plan
TE = Trailing Edge (rear)
inside-out to make it lie flat. ❏ 2. Remove both sets of the die-cut 3/32" balsa
" = Inches stab Ribs S-1 through S-6 and the die-cut 1/8"
Elev = Elevator balsa stab Trailing Edges (TE’s) and TE
❏ 2. Remove all parts from the box. As you do,
determine the name of each part by comparing it Doublers. There is a Jig Tab on the bottom edge
with the plan and the parts list included with this of each of the ribs. If any of these break off,
kit. Using a felt-tip or ball-point pen, lightly write the carefully glue them back on with thin CA. Lightly
part name or size on each piece to avoid sand any imperfections. Use a pen to mark the
METRIC CONVERSION CHART: extensions of the bottom edge of the ribs across
confusion later. Use the die-cut patterns shown on
INCHES X 25.4 = MM (CONVERSION FACTOR) the fore and aft ends of the jig tabs. These marks
pages 7 and 8 to identify the die-cut parts and
mark them before removing them from the sheet. will help when you trim off the jig tabs later.
1/64"= .4 mm
Stock up on scrap balsa by saving the large parts
1/32"= .8 mm
of the remainder of the die-cut sheets after the ❏ 3. Cut the Stab Leading Edges (LE’s) 1/4"
1/16"= 1.6 mm
parts have been removed. longer than shown on the plans from two pieces of
3/32"= 2.4 mm
1/8" = 3.2 mm 1/4" x 11-7/8" tapered balsa stock.
If any of the die-cut parts are difficult to remove, do
5/32"= 4.0 mm
not try to force them! Instead, cut around
3/16"= 4.8 mm
the parts with a hobby knife. After removing the HINT: Bevel the front edge of the ribs to match the
1/4" = 6.4 mm
die-cut parts, use your Easy-Touch or sanding sweep angle of the LE. This will give you a better
3/8" = 9.5 mm
block to lightly sand the edges to remove any fit and a stronger glue joint.
1/2" = 12.7 mm
die-cutting irregularities.
5/8" = 15.9 mm
3/4" = 19.0 mm
❏ 3. As you identify and mark the parts, separate
1" = 25.4 mm
them into groups, such as fuse (fuselage), wing,
2" = 50.8 mm
fin, stab (stabilizer) and hardware.
3" = 76.2 mm
6" = 152.4 mm
12" = 304.8 mm
18" = 457.2 mm
21" = 533.4 mm
24" = 609.6 mm
30" = 762.0 mm Zipper-top food storage bags are handy to store
36" = 914.4 mm your small parts as you sort, identify and
separate them into sub-assemblies. ❏ 4. Pin only the S-2 ribs and the S-6 ribs to the
building board over their locations on the plan.

-9-
 LE. Glue both TE’s to all the ribs then glue the rest
of the ribs to the LE.

❏ 8. Use thick CA to glue the TE joiner to the TE’s

making sure the jig tabs on the ribs are
contacting the building board. Wipe away
excess glue between the TE’s. HOW TO MAKE WING AND
STAB SKINS
(Also see additional Hot Tip on page 34)
❏ 5. With the notch in one of the stab TE’s aligned
with the notch in a stab TE doubler, glue the pieces A. Wherever practical, prejoin the balsa sheets
together. Do the same with the other stab TE and to make a “skin” before attaching them to the
doubler. Make a right and a left half. Glue the structure.
die-cut 1/8" balsa stab TE Joiners together.
B. Many modelers like to sort the wood so they
can put the best wood with the most even grain
structure on the top of the wing and stab.

C. Make your skin larger than needed to allow

for misalignment. On a large surface like the
wing, 3/8" extra is suggested.
❏ 9. Trial fit both S1 ribs without the die-cut 1/8" D. To make skins, the following steps are
plywood LE Joiner. After any required adjustments suggested:
❏ 6. Without using any glue, install ribs S3, S4 have been made to the S1’s, trial fit them with the
LE joiner. Make further adjustments if required then 1. True up the edges of the sheets with a
and S5 in the notches in the TE’s, then fit the
securely glue the assembly in position. Use CA to metal straightedge and a sharp hobby knife or
TE’s to ribs S6 and S2 previously pinned to the
reinforce any glue joints that don’t look strong. an Easy-Touch Bar Sander.
building board.
During the next step make certain the jig 2. Test fit the sheets together to make sure
tabs on the ribs are contacting the building they match well.
board and the ribs are perpendicular to the
building board. 3. Method “A”: The fastest method for gluing
the sheets together is with thin CA over a flat
surface covered with waxed paper. A quick wipe
of the joint with a fresh paper towel will remove
most of the excess glue and make sanding
easier. Mark the poorest surface with an “I” as
the inside of the sheet.

Method “B”: An alternate method for gluing

❏ 10. Prepare the top of the stab for sheeting. Use the pieces that make up a stab or fin skin is to
a razor plane and a sanding block to trim the top glue them together with aliphatic resin (white
surface of the LE (particularly toward the tip) until it glue). Aliphatic resin sands much easier than
is even with the ribs. Sand the TE to smoothly
CA so your skins won’t get too thin from over
blend with the ribs. The stab frame may be
removed from the building board for this step but sanding. Use masking tape to hold the sheets
together until the glue cures – usually in about
❏ 7. Vertically centered, glue one of the stab LE’s must be repinned to the flat building board to apply
to ribs S6 and S2, then do the same with the other the skins. thirty minutes.

- 10 -
 ❏ 16. Glue the die-cut 1/8" balsa Elevator
Leading Edges to the notches in the ribs then
❏ 13. Be certain you can remove the stab from the glue the bottom elevator skins in position. Note:
building board after you glued the skins on. Apply
Be sure the LE’s are parallel to the stab TE. Hint:
an even bead of medium or thick CA to the upward
A stick will serve as a lever to push up the elevator
facing edges of the structure. Place a skin in its
proper position and press it down firmly until the skin to the elevator leading edge while you are
❏ 11. Make the skins for the stabs and fin using gluing it.
three 1/16" x 3" x 36" balsa sheets. See the sketch glue has set. Repeat this step for the other
for the correct layout on the sheets. Refer to the top skin.
plans for the exact shapes and sizes but
remember to cut the sheets slightly oversize. ❏ 13. Use the template provided on the wing plans
to cut four Elevator Skins from a sheet of 1/16" x
Note: The grain direction of the skins is parallel 3" x 36" balsa.
to the leading edges of stab and fin.

❏ 14. Build the Bevel Gauge from the die-cut

1/16" plywood then drill a #48 (or 5/64") hole at
❏ 12. Cut a 2-1/2" wide cross-grain strip from one each punch mark. Use the gauge with a ball-point
of the 1/16" x 3" x 36" balsa sheets used for the pen to mark the bevel and “rib end” indication
stab and fin skins, cut it to fit, then glue it between lines on the inside surfaces of the elevator skins. ❏ 17. Glue the top elevator skin in position.
the S1 stab ribs. Make rights and lefts. Weights placed on the stabilizer will help hold it to
your flat building board to assure a straight, true
stab and elevators.
Caution: If you have recently used any CA 3/8" 1/32"
1/4" 1/32"
Accelerator on the structure during previous ❏ 18. Carefully remove the stab and elevators from
steps, be aware that residual accelerator may your building board. Remove the jig tabs and use a
cause the thick or medium CA you may use razor saw to separate the elevators from the
during the next step to harden prematurely. ❏ 15. Use your Easy-Touch with fresh 150 or 220- stab. Use an Easy-Touch loaded with 220-grit
Some modelers prefer to glue the skins to the grit sandpaper to bevel the aft 1/4" of the elevator sandpaper to blend the ribs to the trailing and
structure with aliphatic resin. Use T-pins to skins (indicated by the aft line drawn with the leading edges of the stab to prepare the structure for
hold the skins in position until the glue cures. gauge) down to roughly 1/32". the bottom skins.

- 11 -
 LE Cap

❏ 22. Glue a 3/16" x 1" x 11-7/8" balsa Leading

Edge Cap to each elevator LE then trim to match
the length of the elevator LE. Use a razor plane,
then a sanding block to blend the top and bottom
of the leading edge cap to the skins. Round the
❏ 19. Cut another piece of 1/16" cross-grain inboard ends to match the elevator LE.
sheeting 2-1/2" long and glue it between the S1
ribs as you did in step 12. Add four 1/4" x 1/2" x 1"
Hinge Blocks to the inside of the stab trailing SHAPING BALSA BLOCKS
edged as shown in the plans. The outer hinge ❏ 23. Tack glue three 1/32" scrap plywood shims The long carving blade in a heavy duty handle (A)
blocks will need to be trimmed to match the height to the leading edge of each elevator, then tack is the best tool to create the rough shape as a
and contour of the stab TE. glue each elevator to the stabilizer with a drop of large amount of wood can be easily removed.
CA on the shims. Make sure the outboard tips are Once the blocks are “roughed in,” use a razor
❏ 20. Inspect all glue joints and add CA where flush by sanding the edges with a sanding block plane (B) to fine tune the shape. Finally, #50
necessary. Glue the bottom stab skins just as you coarse, #150 medium and #220 fine sandpaper on
if required.
did the top. A good glue joint here is important, so an Easy-Touch Bar Sander will smooth out the
apply a generous bead of thick or medium CA to lines and flat spots. Don’t try to shave too much
all the upward facing edges of the structure. wood at one time and inspect your progress
frequently. You can always remove wood, but it’s
Remember: Residual accelerator can cause the
difficult to put it back.
CA to cure prematurely. Be careful not to add
any twist in the stab as you apply the skins.

❏ 24. Noting their orientation on the plans, glue

the shaped 5/8" thick balsa Stabilizer Tips
simultaneously to the stab and elevator. ❏ 26. Separate the elevators from the stabilizer by
cutting the tips with a razor saw and breaking
❏ 21. Use a sanding block to true up the tips of away the tack glued 1/32" plywood shims.
the stab and elevators and to remove the Hint: Hold the razor saw close to the leading edge
remnants of the ribs from the leading edges of the of the elevators while cutting. Use a long sanding
elevators and the trailing edge of the stab. ❏ 25. Use a razor plane and a sanding block to block and 150-grit sandpaper to true the tips with
IMPORTANT: Round the LE of the stab to match shape and round the tips. Refer to the cross the leading edges of the elevators and the trailing
the cross section on the plan. section on the plans frequently during this process. edges of the stabilizer.

- 12 -
❏ 27. Glue the shaped 7/8" thick balsa Elevator ❏ 31. Hold the bent 1/8" Elevator Joiner Wire up ❏ 34. Glue the elevator horn block to the elevator,
Root Blocks to the elevators then use a razor to the elevators and mark the location of the holes then sand it so the pieces blend together.
plane and a sanding block to shape them as you (see the plans). Remove the elevators from the
did the tips. stabilizer and drill 1/8" holes in the elevators to
accomodate the joiner wire.
❏ 28. Draw centerlines on the leading edge of the
elevators and on the trailing edge of the stabilizer.
Mark the position of the hinges on the elevators
and stabilizer using the locations on the plans as
a guide.

BUILD THE FIN AND RUDDER

The Fin and Rudder are built simultaneously just

DRAWING CONTROL SURFACE CENTERLINES the same as the stabilizer.

1. Accurately measure the center point at the two

extreme ends of the surface to be marked.

2. Insert a T-pin at each of the marks. ❏ 32. Make slots inboard of the holes to allow the ❏ 1. Remove the die-cut 3/32" balsa ribs V-1
wire to be inserted into the elevators. Hint: A piece through V-5 and R-1 and the die-cut 1/8" balsa Fin
3. Hold a straightedge against the pins, then draw of 1/8" brass tube sharpened at one end makes a TE’s and Rudder LE. Be sure to preserve the
the centerline. great gouge for cleanly removing material from the jig tabs.
leading edge of the elevators. Trial fit the stabilizer
to the elevators with the joiner inserted and confirm
that the elevators align with each other. Make
❏ 29. Cut the hinge slots now and temporarily adjustments if required. ❏ 2. Cut the fin leading edge to the exact length
install the hinges. Refer to the detailed hinging shown on the plans from a piece of 1/4" x 11-7/8"
instructions on page 48. NOTE: Do not glue the tapered balsa stabilizer LE stock. Notice that the fin
hinges yet, but wait instead until after the LE fits into a notch on top of F-9.
model is covered. ❏ 33. Mark the location for the 1/8" x 7/8" x 1"
plywood Elevator Horn Block on the bottom of the
❏ 30. Sand the elevator LE’s to a “V” shape to right elevator. Remove material as needed to allow
allow for the elevator travel (see the stab cross the horn block to fit flush with the surface of ❏ 3. Slightly bevel the front edge of the ribs to
section on the fuse plans). the elevator. match the angle of the leading edge stock.

- 13 -
 ❏ 12. Glue the left rudder skin to the ribs and
leading edge of the rudder.

❏ 8. Make a skin for each side of the fin using the

❏ 4. Cover the rudder and vertical fin portion of the 1/16" balsa sheet left over from the stab skins.
plans with waxed paper. Lay the leading edge on Make them longer than required so they extend
the plans and mark the exact location of rib V-1 past V-1 about 5/8"; this will allow fitting to the stab
directly on it with a pen. Pin only ribs V-1 and V-5 later. With the structure flat on the table, glue on
to the building board over the plans. Vertically the right skin. ❏ 13. Glue the right rudder skin in position.
center the LE on the front of the ribs and glue it
in place. ❏ 9. Trial fit the rudder LE to the notches in the
ribs and make adjustments if necessary. Glue the
rudder LE to the ribs. ❏ 14. Remove the assembly from the building
board and use a razor saw to separate the rudder
from the fin. Remove the jig tabs from the fin and
blend the leading and trailing edge to the ribs to
prepare for the left side sheeting.

❏ 15. Glue the left fin skin to the fin.

❏ 5. Laminate the two fin trailing edges to each ❏ 16. True up the edges of the sheeting on both
other with thick CA. Place the remaining ribs in the ❏ 10. Trial fit R-1 to the notch in the rudder leading the fin and rudder with a sanding block. Shape the
notches of the fin trailing edge, but do not glue edge. Make sure it is square with the rudder LE of the fin to match the cross section on
them yet. Fit the assembly to the parts already on leading edge and in line with the other rudder ribs, the plans.
the building board. then glue it in position.

❏ 6. With all jig tabs contacting the building ❏ 17. Glue the shaped balsa Rudder Base and
board and the ribs vertical, glue them to the ❏ 11. Use the templates provided on the plans to the 1/4" x 1" x 11-7/8" Rudder LE Cap to the
leading edge and the trailing edge. make two Rudder Skins from a 1/16" x 3" x 36" rudder. Trim the LE cap to the length shown on the
balsa sheet. Use the bevel gauge to mark the plans and roughly shape the rudder base to blend
❏ 7. Use a sanding block and 150-grit sandpaper lines on the inside of each rudder skin, then it with the rest of the rudder. Don’t completely
to blend the LE and TE to match the ribs on the sand the bevel just the same as you did on the round the bottom of the rudder yet as this will be
upward facing (right) fin side. elevator skins. done when it can be fitted to the fuselage.

- 14 -
 Now you have a couple of nicely finished,
lightweight, yet strong “tail feathers”. That’s pretty
much the way the rest of the P-47 builds; rather
“matter-of-factly.” Before you know, it you’ll have a
beautifully-constructed piece of workmanship
to admire.

❏ 3. Drill a 1/16" hole in the five engine mount

BUILD THE FUSELAGE alignment punch marks in FWA and a 1/8" hole
through each of the two firewall former alignment
❏ 18. Tack glue or tape the rudder to the fin with TOP FRAME ASSEMBLY punch marks in FWA, FWB and FWC.
three 1/32" plywood shims (as we did with the
elevators). True up the tip of the fin and rudder if NOTE: The die-cut 1/8" plywood formers are
necessary, then glue the shaped 5/8" balsa Fin Tip stamped only with an abbreviated portion of their
simultaneously to the fin and rudder. name. For example, F-2B is stamped 2B. You
may remove all the formers before you begin
❏ 19. While the rudder and fin are still joined, use construction of the fuselage or you can remove
them as you need them. Lightly sand each former
a razor plane and a sanding block to final shape
to remove any die-cutting imperfections, slivers or
the tip according to the plans. After shaping the irregularities before gluing it in position.
tip, separate the rudder from the fin by cutting
the tip with a razor saw and breaking off the
plywood shims. IMPORTANT: All formers must be installed
with the stamped identification number
❏ 20. Draw a centerline on the leading edge of the facing forward.
rudder and the trailing edge of the fin, cut the
hinge slots, then sand the “V” on the leading edge
of the rudder. ❏ 1. Pin the top view of the Fuselage plan to a flat ❏ 4. Cut the 1/8" x 1" Alignment Dowel in half.
building surface, then cover it with waxed paper. Use 30-minute epoxy to laminate FWA, B and C
with the alignment dowel inserted in the holes.
Make sure the stamped label on each former is
facing forward. Hint: Clamp the firewall formers to
a flat table or board to assure a warp-free firewall.

❏ 21. Mark the location of the 1/8" x 7/8" x 1" birch ❏ 5. Remove 4" from each 3/16" x 3/8" x 48"
ply Rudder Horn Block on the rudder. Remove Shaped Main Stringer, then pin them to the plans
balsa from the marked area, then glue the horn with the groove facing outward. Leave excess
block in position. Sand it to blend to the shape of ❏ 2. Use thick CA to laminate the F-1’s together material extending beyond F-1 (it will be trimmed
the rudder. and the F-1B’s together. later). Accurately match the aft end to the plans.

- 15 -
 NOTE: From this point on you will encounter a few
areas on the structure that may be difficult to glue
because they are not easily accessible. At this
early stage much of the structure only needs to be
tack glued, but it can be reinforced with thick or
medium CA after the sheeting is applied and the
frame is removed from the building board.

❏ 10. Glue the die-cut 1/8" plywood Stab Saddles

❏ 8. Drill 3/16" holes through the punch marks in to F-9 and the side stringers. Note: The bottom
formers F-7 and F-8. With the numbers facing edges of the stab saddles are not flush with the
forward, glue the remaining formers F-3 through side stringer but set away from the outside edge
❏ 6. Fit, but do not glue, the Tank Roof (TR) F-9 to the side stringers. slightly. Also, the tops of the saddles are canted
followed by the Right Upper Crutch (RUC) and toward each other.
Left Upper Crutch (LUC) into former F-1. Place
the assembly in its location on the plans between
the main stringers. Note: Left crutch is slightly
RAZORBACK VERSION:
longer than the right crutch to set the engine
thrust angle. NOTE: Use a small triangle to hold ALL Perform steps 11, 12 and 13 only if building the
formers vertical while gluing. Any small warps Razorback version.
or twists will be taken out when the 3/16"
stringers are glued in later.

❏ 11. Glue the die-cut 1/8" plywood formers IP, CB

and 5-C to the cockpit deck and former tops 6-C
and 7-C to their respective formers. Hint: If you
❏ 7. Fit former F-2 to the upper crutches. Making F-4
have decided to install the Top Flite Scale Cockpit
sure F-1 is perpendicular to the building board, use Interior, glue the IP to the cockpit deck from the
medium CA to glue the TR, RUC and LUC to the front only and CB from the back only. Most of the
aft side only of F-1. Later we’ll glue the parts to ❏ 9. Glue the two halves of the die-cut 1/8" balsa cockpit deck will be cut flush with IP and CB.
the front of F-1 with a fillet of epoxy. Do not glue Cockpit Deck together, then glue it to formers F-3,
the TR to the upper crutches forward of F-1. F-4 and F-5. NOTE: If you will be installing the Top NOTE: Save all the unused portions of the
Glue F-1 and F-2 to the side stringer and glue F-2 Flite Scale Cockpit Interior, do not glue the cockpit 3/16" x 3/16" stringers used during
to the crutches. deck to F-4. construction of the fuselage.

- 16 -
 BUBBLE CANOPY VERSION:
Perform steps 14 and 15 if building the Bubble
Canopy version.

❏ 12. Use a drafting triangle to hold the formers

vertical and remove any twists as you glue one
3/16" x 3/16" x 42" balsa stringer in F-1 through ❏ 16. Cut and glue the rest of the stringers for the
F-9 on each side of the fuselage. Cut the stringers front of the fuselage from three 3/16" x 3/16" x 24"
flush with F-1. Glue 3/16" x 3/16" x 24" stringers in balsa sticks.
the rest of the formers on the aft end of the
fuselage. The middle stringer on each side extends ❏ 14. Glue the die-cut 1/8" Plywood Formers IP,
past F-9 1-1/2" and will be trimmed to exact size CBX and 5X to the cockpit floor and former tops
later. The top 3/16" stringers end at the forward 6X and 7X to their respective formers. Hint: if
surface of F-9. NOTE: Do not glue the top stringers MAIN MAIN
you have decided to install the Top Flite scale STRINGER SUB-STRINGER
to F-9. cockpit, glue the IP to the cockpit deck from the
front only and CBX from the back only. Most of
the cockpit deck will be cut flush with IP and CB.
❏ 17. Use thin CA (wiping away any excess before
NOTE: Save all the unused portions of the it cures) to glue two 1/8" x 3/16" x 24" balsa sub-
3/16" x 3/16" stringers used during stringers into the groove in each side main
construction of the fuselage. stringer. These sub-stringers will provide a ledge
for the sheeting.

❏ 18. Lightly sand all joints and blend the stringers

to the formers in preparation for sheeting. Use a
razor plane to bevel the edges of the cockpit deck.
❏ 15. Use a drafting triangle to hold the formers
vertical and remove any twists as you glue one
3/16" x 3/16" x 42" balsa stringers in formers F-1
SHEET THE SIDES OF THE FUSELAGE TOP
through F-9 on each side of the fuselage. Cut
them flush with F-1. Glue 3/16" x 3/16" x 24"
stringers in the rest of the formers on the aft end
of the fuselage except for the top, middle
stringer. Notice the middle stringer on each side
of F-9 extends 1-1/2" and will be trimmed to exact ❏ 1. Locate the two shaped 3/32" balsa Main
size later. The top 3/16" stringers end at the Upper Fuselage Side Sheets. The fuselage is
❏ 13. Glue the die-cut 1/8" balsa Razor Spine to forward surface of F-9. NOTE: Do not glue the longer than the sheet so we’ll add a piece to the
the top of CB, 5-C and 6-C. NOTE: The aft edge of top stringers to F-9. rear later. Refer to the plans for the position of the
the razor spine ends at the center of 6-C. side sheet.

- 17 -
❏ 2. Wet the outside surface of a sheet and test fit GLUE THE STABILIZER AND FIN TO
it to the fuselage. Hint: a 50:50 mixture of water THE FUSELAGE
and rubbing alcohol applied to the outside surface
will make the sheeting easier to bend. Make
adjustments to the sheet if required.

❏ 3. Apply a bead of thick CA (remember the CA

may cure on contact if there is any residual
❏ 3. Place the stab onto the stab saddle, then trim
accelerator in the balsa wood) to the main side the sheeting on both sides of the fin until it fits in
stringer and sub stringer then quickly place the the same position it was when you fit it without
sheet in position. Start from the middle and work the stab.
outward inserting T-pins to hold the sheeting in ❏ 1. Carefully trim the fuselage side sheeting until
place until the CA cures. it is even with the plywood inner stab saddle. Make
adjustments to the fuse sides very carefully so you
don’t change the incidence angle set by the
inner stab saddle. If sanding is necessary, put
masking tape over the inner stab saddles. Trial fit In preparation for gluing the stab and fin to the
the stab to the saddle. Continue trimming the balsa fuselage, make a “dry run” of the next few
side sheeting and the stringers that extend past steps first without using any glue so you
F-9 until the stab contacts the entire length of the understand the procedure.
plywood stab saddle.

❏ 4. Glue the top of the side sheet to the stringers

and cockpit deck with thin CA starting from the
middle and working outward. Glue the sheet to the
rest of the stringers and formers.

❏ 2. Remove the stab and trial fit the fin to the

fuselage. A small piece of fin sheeting will need
removed from the fin LE so it will fit in former
F-9. The fin is in the correct position when the front ❏ 4. Put the stab on the saddle and add weights to
of the fin trailing edge contacts the plywood stab hold it in place. Measure the height of each tip
saddle, the bottom of the fin trailing edge contacts above the work surface and if not identical, make
the work surface and the fin LE fits all the way small adjustments to the saddle and fuse sides.
❏ 5. Glue the other sheet to the fuselage in the down into F-9. Study the fuselage side view. The Hint: Slide 1-3/8" balsa blocks (not supplied) under
same manner. Add a piece of leftover 3/32" trailing edge of the fin must be perpendicular to the the tips and adjust their position to level
sheeting to the rear of each fuselage side. work surface. the stab.

- 18 -
 COMPLETE THE FUSE TOP
RAZORBACK VERSION:

Perform steps 8 through 13 only if you are building

the Razorback version.

❏ 10. Cut the notch in the top of the sheet so it will

However, if you are installing the optional cockpit fit against the Razor Spine and fuselage spine. Wet
kit (no matter which version you are building), skip the inside portion of the sheet that bends inward
ahead and perform steps 3 & 4 on page 21 before towards the fuselage and wet the outside of the
you glue the top fuse sheeting in position. portion of the sheet that bends around the formers.
❏ 5. Use a string, pinned to the center of the top Hint: The best way to make the sheeting conform to
stringer at F-1, to equalize the distance of the stab the compound curves of the Razorback is to liberally
tips to the nose. Hint: An alternate method to the wet the sheet then place it on the fuselage and little
“string and pin” technique, is to extend the line on by little bend it into position. Wet, then reposition the
the plans showing the trailing edge of the stab, sheet on the fuselage a few times continuously
then align the stab with this line. Use a pen and a bending it to shape each time. Let the sheet dry for a
straightedge to draw the line. few minutes before permanently gluing it. Glue the
aft top sheet to the fuselage.
❏ 11. Trim the top edge of the sheet where it
meets the Razor Spine and fuselage spine. Glue
the other aft top sheet to the fuselage in the same
❏ 8. Trim the shaped 15" balsa Fuselage Spine
manner as the first.
to fit between the leading edge of the fin and the aft
edge of the Razor Spine then glue it to the formers.
Bevel the sides of the Razor Spine so it blends with
the curvature of the formers. (See cross section on
fuselage plan.)

❏ 12. Position the 1/2" x 1-1/4" x 8" Aft Deck Top

Block on the Razor Spine and trace its outline.
Carve the top block to approximate shape, then
❏ 6. Accurately draw a centerline along the length glue it in position.
of the fin post (or use the same centerline
previously drawn for hinging). Fit the fin into the
stab and fuselage, then clamp the rear of the
fuselage sides together. Use a triangle to confirm
that the fin is perpendicular to the work surface.
When it’s time to glue the fin to the fuse and stab,
masking tape may be used to hold the fin in
position while the epoxy cures.
❏ 9. Use the template on the plans to make a ❏ 13. Glue a 1-1/4" wide strip of 3/32" balsa to the
Right and a Left Aft Fuselage Top from two cockpit sides joining the front deck. Refer to the
3/32" x 3" x 30" balsa sheets. Start by fitting the cross section and side view on the plans then use
bottom edge of one of the top sheets to the side a razor plane and a sanding block to blend the aft
sheet, on the fuselage. Position the top sheet on deck top block to the fuselage. Cut out the canopy
❏ 7. Double check all alignments. Permanently glue the fuselage and mark where it will be notched for and use it as a guide to accurately shape the
the fin and stab in position with 30-minute epoxy. the Razor Spine. top block.

- 19 -
 COMPLETE THE FUSE TOP
BUBBLE CANOPY VERSION:

Perform steps 8-10 only if building the Bubble

Canopy version.

❏ 4. Apply HobbyLite balsa filler around the

fairings to blend them to the fuselage sheeting.
❏ 15. Wet the outside of an upper forward fuselage Apply a couple of thin layers and sand between
top to soften it, then place it on the upper forward each application.
frame. It should overlap the instrument panel and
❏ 8. Reference the cross section on the plans, F-1 by about 1/8". FINAL FIT THE CANOPY
then cut a notch in former F-8 for the top stringer. BUBBLE CANOPY
Trial fit the 3/16" x 3/16" x 24" stringers in the ❏ 16. Glue the top to the fuselage. Cut the other
notches in the tops of the formers. The aft end will side of the upper forward fuselage top to fit on the ❏ 1. Cut the bubble canopy to the trim lines
have to be shaped to fit between the stringers at fuselage then glue it in position the same as you scribed around its perimeter. Lightly sand the
former F-9. Glue the stringer in position. did the first piece. butyrate to smooth the edges.

FINAL FIT THE CANOPY

RAZORBACK VERSION

❏ 1. Use leftover balsa and the templates on the

plans to make the 1/16" Razorback Cockpit
❏ 9. Use the template on the plans to make a Fairings and the 1/8" Cockpit Fairing Formers. ❏ 2. Fit and glue two pieces of leftover 3/32" balsa
Right and a Left Aft Fuselage Top from two sheet between IP and the cockpit’s aft former.
3/32" x 3" x 30" balsa sheets. Wet the outside of These pieces should extend about 1" above the
one of the tops, then glue it to the top edge of upper stringer as shown.
the aft fuselage side and the stringers. Apply
medium CA to the formers and top stringer, then
roll the sheet into contact. Hold it in position until
the CA cures.

❏ 10. Custom fit the other aft fuselage top

then glue it to the other aft fuselage side in the
same manner.
❏ 2. Set the canopy on the fuselage and mark the
location of the cockpit fairing formers. Glue the
formers to the fuselage. ❏ 3. Refer to the plans for the canopy location,
then position the canopy on the fuselage. Trace
❏ 14. Cut the Upper Forward Fuselage Tops ❏ 3. Replace the canopy on the fuselage to around the canopy to define its shape around the
from a 3/32" x 4" x 30" balsa sheet. This should be confirm the position of the cockpit formers and test cockpit. Remove the canopy. Draw a second line
done in two halves with the pieces joining in the fit the cockpit fairings. Make adjustments if parallel to and 1/4" above the first. Trim the excess
center of the top middle stringer. necessary, then glue the cockpit fairings in place. balsa to match the second line.

- 20 -
FINAL STEPS BEFORE FRAMING FRAME THE FUSE BOTTOM
THE LOWER FUSE
❏ 1. Drill 3/16" holes through the punch marks in
❏ 1. Turn the fuselage over and reinforce all glue formers 4-B and 5-B.
joints that don’t look strong or that you couldn’t
reach before. Do not glue the tank roof to the
upper crutches forward of F-1 until told to do
so. Add a fillet of 30-minute epoxy inside the
fuselage where the stab meets the plywood
saddle. Hint: An inexpensive Robart® Super Stand
works well to support the fuse and because it’s ❏ 4. Cut out the cockpit deck close to IP and CB
made of Styrofoam ® and can be modified to (CBX for Bubble Canopy) and along the lines
conform to the fuse shape. 2-3/16" from the center. Sand the cockpit deck
flush with the cockpit back and instrument panel.
The top portion of F-4 will be removed later. ❏ 2. Test fit the die-cut 1/8" ply Left and Right
Lower Crutches to the formers in the fuselage
then add the die-cut 1/8" formers 2-B, both 3-B’s,
4-B and 5-B without gluing any parts. Make sure
all the formers fit into the notches in the crutches
❏ 5. Apply masking tape to the bottom of the Stab and make sure the lower formers fit into the upper
and also the Fuse Side about 3/16" on either side formers. Make adjustments if necessary.
of the joint. Mix a little 30-minute epoxy, then
squeeze it into the Stab/Fuse joint. Remove the
tape before the epoxy cures and feather the
❏ 2. Use model filler (Hobbico HobbyLite balsa- excess with your finger.
colored filler recommended) to begin blending the ❏ 3. Test fit 1-B and TF to the crutch in the
top deck with the stab and fin. Apply in thin layers fuselage. Make sure 1-B fits well into former F-1.
allowing each layer to dry thoroughly before the Make adjustments if necessary.
next application.
❏ 6. Once the epoxy has cured, apply more
Perform steps 3 & 4 only if installing the optional masking tape about 1/4" out from the joint, then
scale interior kit. use model filler to create a neat fillet along the
length of the joint. Once again, remove the tape
before the filler dries and feather the edges with
your finger to avoid excessive sanding.

❏ 7. NOTE: Protect the stab and fin skins with

masking tape around where you will be ❏ 4. After any required adjustments have been
sanding to avoid the possibility of dangerously made, use a straightedge to keep each lower
thinning the skins. Lightly sand the first layer of former parallel to each upper former, then glue
❏ 3. If you are going to install the Top Flite Scale filler around the Stab and the Top Deck, then them together. Double check that F-1B is
Cockpit, remove the cockpit deck in the cockpit apply a second coat. When the filler is dry use parallel to F-1. Glue the crutches to the lower
area. Measure 2-3/16" from both sides of the joint different thickness dowels wrapped with 220-grit formers. Glue the tank floor to the crutches and
in the cockpit deck halves along the instrument sandpaper to shape the fillet. Take your time to formers. NOTE: Do not glue the tank floor to the
panel (IP) and the cockpit back (CBX). blend all contours with the Fuse. crutches forward of F-1B at this time.

- 21 -
 SILVER SOLDERING
Use this process when soldering metal to metal, such
as brass tube to wire, or pushrod ends to wire.
❏ 9. Test fit the die-cut 3/32" balsa Wing Saddles
❏ 5. After carefully aligning the holes, glue both to the formers, then glue them in position. A. Thoroughly clean the items to be soldered with
2-C’s to the forward surface of F-2B. Inspect all the alcohol or degreasing solvent. Pay special attention to
glue joints and add small fillets of medium CA the inside of the threaded brass couplers.
where each former meets the crutches.
B. Roughen the area to be soldered with fine
sandpaper, then clean again.
❏ 6. Glue the remaining lower formers 6-B TAIL GEAR INSTALLATION C. Assemble the items to be soldered.
through 8-B to their respective upper formers.
Use a straightedge to maintain vertical alignment D. Apply a small amount of soldering flux. Acid based
between top and bottom formers. Hint: For better liquid flux works best when one or more of the items
bonding with the sheeting, lightly sand the formers is steel.
edges so that they are slightly beveled to match
the angle of the fuse toward the tail. E. Heat the metal with a soldering gun or iron and
apply solder to the metal. The metal must get hot
enough to melt the solder and the solder must flow
freely into the joint.
❏ 7. Drill a 5/64" hole through the two
forward punch marks in the die-cut 1/8" plywood F. Do not move the parts until the solder has cooled.
Tail-wheel Deck (TW) and a 9/64" hole through ❏ 1. Cut the Aft Post flush with the nylon Tail
the aft punch mark. Insert 9-B into TW and glue Wheel Bracket. G. Test the joint by pulling hard.
them to the fuselage as shown on the plans. Glue
5-D to the crutches. H. Clean off the excess flux with alcohol or solvent.
Coat the parts with a very fine film of oil.

❏ 3. Mark the location of the Metal Ball on the end

of the brass tube and drill a 1/16" hole at the mark.

❏ 4. Attach the ball permanently to the tail gear

with the Small Nut provided. Put a drop of epoxy
on the threads to prevent it from coming loose.

❏ 8. Glue three 3/16" x 3/16" x 24" stringers in the ❏ 5. Use the 4-40 Set Screw to lock the Collar at
aft former notches; one in the bottom and one more ❏ 2. Use a pliers to flatten 1/4" of one end of the the height shown on the fuselage side view, but
in each middle notch as shown in the photo. 1/8" x 5/8" Brass Tube. Slide the tube on the Tail orient the set screw so small adjustments can be
NOTE: The two side stringers at former F-9 do not Wire and check the parts over the fuselage top made later during construction if required.
end at the aft edge of F-9 but are inset 1/16". Use a view to make sure they match up well. Use silver
straightedge as you glue in the stringers to keep solder to solder the brass tube to the top of the ❏ 6. Roughen the tubular Nylon Bearing on the
the formers in vertical alignment. tailwheel wire. tailwheel wire with coarse sandpaper.

- 22 -
❏ 7. Cut two 3" long sticks from one of the ❏ 20. Thread a Nylon Clevis onto the .074" x 12"
approximately 6" long scrap pieces of 3/16" x pushrod then place it over the Aft Rudder Pushrod
3/16" stringers leftover from the top of the drawn on the plans and cut it 1/8" longer than shown.
fuselage. Bevel one end of each stick, then glue
one of them to the side of middle stringer on the
very bottom of the fuselage. The other one will be
glued on at step 11.
❏ 14. Mark and cut the rudder and elevator
pushrod exits where shown on the fuselage plans.
Bevel the exits with a sharp knife or a round file to
allow the outer pushrod tubes to exit at the angle
shown on the plans.

❏ 15. Place two 36" long grey Outer Pushrod

Tubes over the Elevator Pushrod Tube and
Forward Rudder Pushrod Tube drawings on the
top view of the fuselage plans. Cut them a few
❏ 8. Place the tailwheel assembly on the tailwheel inches longer than length shown. Use 220-grit ❏ 21. Temporarily snap a Small Control Horn
brace with the nylon bearing tube next to the sandpaper to roughen the outside of the tubes so onto the clevis and slide a Threaded Coupler on
stringer. Mark the location with a pen then cut a glue will stick to them. the end of the rod. Slide the control rod through the
notch in the stringer for the nylon bearing. pushrod exit in the aft end of the fuselage and
❏ 16. From one of the short cut-off pieces of 36" place the control horn on the rudder in the position
❏ 9. Test fit the tailwheel assembly with the pushrod tube, cut a 5" long piece for the Aft shown on the plans.
bearing in the notch. Rotate the tailwheel wire and Rudder Pushrod Tube and sand the outside.
check for binding. Make adjustments if necessary. ❏ 17. Slide the forward rudder pushrod tube and
the elevator tube through the holes in the formers
❏ 10. Put a few drops of 30-minute epoxy in the and position them as shown on the plans with the
holes of the plywood tailwheel brace and the bolt excess length forward of F-4 Note: Remember
holes of the nylon bracket. Screw the nylon you are looking at the top view of the plans.
bracket to the brace with two #4 x 3/8" Sheet ❏ 22. Observe the location of the threaded
Position the pushrods on opposite sides of the coupler and see if the length of the pushrod is
Metal Screws. fuse, when looking at the fuse from the bottom. correct. With the rudder and tailwheel in neutral
❏ 18. If you haven’t already done so, cut the position the threaded rod should be able to
❏ 11. Force some epoxy into the notch of the screw into the dual-end ball link about 3/16".
stringer and around the nylon bearing being rudder hinge slots. Temporarily install the rudder
onto the fin. Make adjustments to the length of the pushrod if
careful not to get any epoxy inside the tube. Glue required.
the remaining 3/16" x 3/16" x 3" stick to the other
side of the stringer to lock the nylon bearing
into position.

❏ 12. Cut the .074" x 36" Threaded One End Rod

to approximate length by removing 7" from the ❏ 23. Once the threaded coupler is soldered to
non-threaded end. Thread a Dual-Ended Ball the pushrod and the system is hooked up and
Link 14 full turns onto the threaded end. closed in, some adjustment may be made by
screwing or unscrewing the clevis but the more
❏ 13. From the 6-1/2" long piece of inner pushrod ❏ 19. Install the Forward Rudder Pushrod accurate it is now, the less adjustment you may
tube, cut 11 pieces approximately 3/8" in length through the slot in the rear of the fuselage. Position have to make later. Slide one of the 3/8" spacers
and slide four of them onto the rudder pushrod, the dual-end ball link on the ball but do not snap onto the aft rudder pushrod, then use silver solder
spaced as shown on the plans. it on yet. to solder the threaded coupler onto the pushrod.

- 23 -
 ❏ 3. Hold an air exit up to the side stringer, then
use a ball-point pen to mark where the side
stringer interferes with it. Use a razor saw to
carefully cut through the side stringer and
❏ 24. Bevel the aft rudder pushrod tube so it ❏ 27. Permanantly install the aft rudder pushrod. sheeting. Remove this piece from the fuselage.
matches the angle of the fuselage. Install but don’t Hold the dual-end ball link with a pliers and screw Perform this step on the other side of the fuselage.
glue the tube in the pushrod exit, then cut the in the aft pushrod. Check the length of the rod, and
forward end so it extends 1/8" past the slot in the how far it is screwed into the dual-end ball link.
plywood stab saddle. Make adjustments if required. Snap the ball link
onto the ball.

❏ 25. Slide the aft rudder pushrod through the aft FIT THE INTERCOOLER
pushrod tube temporarily mounted in the fuselage.
AIR EXITS
Confirm that the alignment and location of the
pushrod and tube is correct. Make adjustments if ❏ 4. Glue a 1-1/2" long strip of 1/16" sheet to one
NOTE: If you have decided to install the end of the 1/8" x 3/8" x 4-1/4" plywood strip and a
necessary, then permanantly glue the aft pushrod
supplied vacuum formed intercooler air exits, 2" long piece to the other end. Make two of these
tube to the fuselage.
follow the instructions below. If you elect not assemblies.
to install the exits or wish to represent them
in a closed position, follow only step 6 and 7
below. Then, the closed air exits would
simply be represented by panel lines on your
finished model.

❏ 5. Glue the main side stringer Braces to the

❏ 1. Cut out the right and left vacuum formed inside of the main side stringers. Refer to the top
intercooler air exits along the cut lines. and side view of the fuselage plans for location.

❏ 26. Prior to permanently connecting the aft

rudder pushrod, fill any gaps where the pushrod
❏ 2. The main side stringers between F-6 and
F-7 need to be inset to clear the intercooler air
tube exits the fuselage with some Micro Balloons
(Top Flite recommended) and epoxy. After it cures,
exits before adding the bottom sheeting. Mark ❏ 6. Glue the remaining four 3/16" x 3/16" x 24"
the location of the air exits on the fuselage side aft fuselage stringers to the notches in
final sand to make a smooth, clean pushrod
stringers where shown on the plans. the formers.
tube exit.

- 24 -
 ❏ 3. Use a sanding block and 150-grit sandpaper
to blend the stringers to the formers and eliminate
any glue blobs or irregularities. Even up the
stringer ends with the formers.

❏ ❏ 7. Bend the sheet into contact with the aft

❏ 7. The stringer below the main side stringer ❏ 4. Cut two Lower Fuselage Sheets from 3/32" stringer then wick thin CA into the joint–from the
(above, if the model is upside-down on your x 3-1/4" x 42" balsa to match the pattern on the center outward. If the balsa sheet is too rigid, use
cradle) also must be spliced in order to clear the plan. The cut sheets will be slightly oversize to water on a paper towel to moisten it. Finish
intercoolers. Cut a section out of the stringers allow for final fitting and sanding. attaching the sheet by wicking CA into all former
directly above the main stringer. and stringer joints along the sheet. Wipe any
excess CA from exposed edges before it cures.

❏ ❏ 8. Add a piece of scrap 3/32" balsa to the aft

end of the sheet.

❏ 8. Cut leftover 3/16" x 3/16" stringers to

reinforce the stringers you notched to clear the ❏ 9. Repeat steps 3-6 for the opposite side.
intercooler air exits.

❏ ❏ 5. Test fit the sheet to the fuselage and make

adjustments by carefully shaving away wood where
SHEET THE FUSE BOTTOM needed. Trim the sheeting between F-9 and F-5D to
fall on the centerline of the 3/16" Stringer. Aft of F-9
❏ 1. If you haven’t already done so, glue the
the sheeting is even with the bottom edge (top if
remaining four 3/16" x 3/16" x 24" aft fuselage
fuselage is upside down) of the stringer.
stringers to the notches in the formers.

❏ ❏ 6. Position the side sheet on the Main

Stringer ledge. Press the sheet against the Main
Stringer and wick thin CA into the joint, from the ❏ 10. Use two 3/32" x 4" x 30" balsa sheets to
inside. Start at the center and work forward and cover one side of the aft bottom of the fuselage .
aft, tack gluing the sheet in place as you proceed. Wet the outside of the first sheet to help it bend
When the length of the sheet has been tacked in around the formers. When satisfied with the fit,
❏ 2. Use a 3/16" x 3/16" x 24" stringer to make the place, go back and wick thin CA along the entire glue it in place with medium CA. Sheet both sides.
two aft stringers from F-9 to the rear of the fuselage. inside edge. Wick thin CA along the top joint.

- 25 -
❏ 11. Trim the ends of the aft bottom sheeting available the P-47 will have a tendency to climb as
even with F-9 and F-5D. full power is applied. This condition can be
controlled by adding an additional one degree of
down thrust to the engine.

NOTE: The following sequence shows the

installation of a Super Tigre .75 engine with the
cylinder mounted at a 45 degree angle towards
the bottom of the fuse. This orientation allows the
exhaust port of a 2-stroke engine to be connected
to a Top Flite In-Cowl Muffler and the engine
exhaust to exit near the bottom of the fuse.
❏ 15. Remove the block, then use a hobby knife
and a razor plane to carve the shape to match the
outline you traced. Glue it in position when
satisfied with the shape.

❏ 12. Use a sanding block to sand the aft fuse

sheeting flush with the stringers so it tapers to the
bottom edge of the fin post.

❏ 13. Bevel the front edge of the 1" x 2-1/2" x 7"

Aft Fuse Block to fit flush against 9-B. Sand the
aft edge flush with the fin post.

❏ 16. Continue shaping the aft fuse block to blend ❏ 1. Drill four 7/32" holes through the laminated
with the fuse. Temporarily install the rudder, then Firewall for the engine mounting bolts at the
shape the aft fuse block and the rudder to blend marked locations. Insert four 8-32 Blind Nuts into
smoothly with the fuse. the holes from the aft side and seat them with
gentle taps from a hammer. Wick thin CA around
❏ 17. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the 1/2" x 7/8" the flange of each nut to secure it in position.
x 1-1/4" Maple Wing Bolt Blocks in the fuselage Avoid getting CA into the threads.
at the location shown on the plans.

Note: We will sheet between F-1 and F-2 when

we finish sheeting the belly pan.

INSTALL THE ENGINE ❏ 2. Remove the spacer bar from the back of both
Engine Mount Halves and trim off any burrs.
❏ 14. Put the block on the fuselage and trace There are a variety of options when it comes to Temporarily bolt the engine mount to the firewall
around the underside and forward edge to form a engine selection. Our prototype P-47 weighed with four 8-32 x 1-1/4" Socket Head Cap Screws
rough cutting outline. Tape the rudder in position approximately 10 lbs and flew extremely well with with #8 Lock Washers and #8 Flat Washers.
so that you can trace the outline on the aft edge of the Super Tigre .75 2-stroke. When using a 1.20 Place the engine between the rails, adjusting the
the block. 4-stroke engine, due to the large amount of power width of the rails accordingly.

- 26 -
 ❏ 7. After the epoxy cures, remove the C-clamps FUSELAGE CONSTRUCTION NOTES:
and apply a fillet of 30-minute epoxy on both
sides of F-1 all the way around the tank roof and
tank floor and the right and left crutches. Make
sure the crutches are glued to the tank roof and
floors as well.

INSTALL SERVO TRAY

❏ 3. Position the engine so the Drive Washer is

6-1/4" (159mm) from the aft edge of the engine
mount. Mark, drill (#29 drill bit) and tap the engine
mounting holes to accept the 8-32 x 1" Socket ❏ 1. Test fit your servos in the die-cut 1/8" plywood
Head Cap Screws included with this kit. Servo Tray and make sure the spacing is correct.
Make adjustments if required. Cut two 1/4" x 4-1/4"
strips from leftover 1/8" lite plywood. These strips
should be positioned on servo tray so that the
servo screws will screw through the center of them.
Glue the strips to the servo tray.
❏ 4. Test fit the engine to the mount with the 8-32
screws. Remove the mount from the firewall, then
test fit the firewall to the fuselage as shown in the
plans. Make adjustments to the notches in the
firewall if necessary.

❏ 5. If you are using a Great Planes 14 oz. fuel

tank, drill the holes in the firewall for the fuel lines
now. Drill a 7/32" hole in the center of the firewall ❏ 2. Glue the servo tray to the crutches and former
1-7/8" up from the bottom and another 7/32" hole F-3 with the 1/4" strips on the underside of the
1" above the first. servo tray.

Regroup, clean off the workbench and grab the

wing plans!

❏ 6. Make sure the back surface of the firewall

fully contacts the crutches, tank roof and tank
floor. Use 30-minute epoxy and C-clamps to glue
the firewall in position.

- 27 -
 BUILD THE WING ❏ 5. Ribs W-2 through W-6 have punch marks just
aft of the spar. Drill a 3/16" hole at each of these
NOTE: The wing panels are built “UPSIDE- marks for future installation of the aileron pushrods.
DOWN” on the plans. The jig tabs are attached
to what is, in the end, the TOP surface of the
wing. Since it is the standard convention to
show the Top View of the wing, and the wing
panels are built upside down, the LEFT wing
panel is built over the RIGHT Wing Top View
and vice-versa. This does not present any
problems; just be sure to build a left and a Skip this step if installing retracts
right wing. ❏ 8. Locate wing ribs W-4, W-5, W-6 and plywood
❏ 6. Use a straightedge to draw a line on either doublers W4-F, W5-F and W6-F. Use thick CA to
side of both W-2 ribs 1/16" behind the spar notch. glue the ribs and doublers together. Be sure to
PREPARATION Put marks on the line equal to the depth of the make a LEFT and a RIGHT of each rib assembly.
deepest part of the forward notches. Remove the shaded area with a hobby knife or
razor saw.
❏ 1. Locate the four 1/4" x 3/8" x 36" hard balsa
Wing Spars, then cut them 1/4" longer than shown
on the plans. Save the cut-off ends for the flap
servo hatch mounts.

2"
SPAR DOUBLER
RETRACT MODIFICATION FOR
OUTER SPAR CENTURY JET RETRACTS
The standard retract rail spacing in this kit is
❏ 2. Sand a taper on one end of each of the four designed to accept Robart #606 85 degree
1/8" x 3/8" x 18" balsa Spar Doublers as shown in retracts without modification. However, if you
the sketch. Laminate a spar doubler to each spar elect to install the Century Jet Model’s retracts,
with the root end of the doubler aligned with the modify the rails and rib doublers to accept the
root end of the spar. ❏ 7. Drill 1/8" holes through the punch marks in the
two die-cut 1/8" plywood Aileron Bellcrank Plates CJM retracts as follows. It will be easiest to do
(AB). Assemble the bellcrank parts as shown in the this before framing the wing while the ribs and
sketch (don’t worry, there is no right and left – you doublers are easy to modify.
❏ 3. Before removing the 1/16" plywood Dihedral can’t build them backwards). Put a drop of
Braces from the die-cut sheet, draw a centerline 6-minute epoxy on the 4-40 nut and threads to ❏ 1. Use the sketch on page 55 to modify the
on both pieces by connecting the punch marks. prevent the bellcrank from vibrating loose. 1/16" plywood rib doublers before laminating
them to ribs W-5 and W-6.
❏ 4. Remove all the die-cut 3/32" balsa Wing Ribs
and 1/16" ply (or 1/8" ply if installing fixed landing ❏ 2. Make four new retract rails from 1/4" thick
gear) Rib Doublers. Smooth out any imperfections NOTE: If you haven’t already done so, now is 5-ply aircraft plywood. The new dimensions
with sandpaper. Be sure to keep the jig tabs the time to decide if you are going to use should be 1/4" x 17/32" x 3-1/16".
attached to the ribs. retractable or fixed landing gear.

- 28 -
 and the notches in the die-cut 1/8" balsa Aft Outer
Spar to account for the forward sweep of the spar.
Test fit but do not glue the aft outer spar in ribs
W-7 through W-11. Fit but do not glue the die-cut
3/32" balsa Aileron Root Rib W-7B. Make sure
the ribs remain aligned over the plans when the aft
outer spar is in position.

Skip this step if installing fixed gear ❏ ❏ 3. Position the die-cut 3/32" balsa ribs W-2 ❏ ❏ 6. Sight down the trailing edge of the ribs and
❏ 9. Locate wing ribs W-5 and W-6, and 1/16" through W-11 on the spar, aligned over their make sure they are aligned. Use paper shims to
plywood doublers 5-R and 6-R (4 each). Use appropriate locations on the plans. Push rib W-2 raise any low ribs if required. Slip three layers of
thick CA to glue the ribs and doublers together. forward against the spar. Make sure each rib is waxed paper between W-7B and W-7 up to the
Remove the shaded area with a hobby knife or vertical and the jig tabs are contacting the front edge of the aft outer spar then glue W-7B to
razor saw. building board, then glue W-2 through W-11 to W-7. Glue the aft outer spar to the ribs making
the spar. sure all the jig tabs are contacting the
work surface.
Okay, the prep work is behind you, so now that the
dull stuff is done, let’s build the outer wing panels
so you’ll have something to show when your
friends drop in to check on your progress! ❏ ❏ 7. Fit but do not glue the die-cut 1/8" plywood
Dowel Plate (AFT) into rib W-2 then add rib W-1 to
the assembly. Still without using any glue, press
the Bottom Main Spar into the notches and check
for a flush fit at each rib. Confirm that the spar
❏ ❏ 4. Test fit the die-cut 1/8" balsa Aft Inner extends past the dowel plate and rib W-11. Glue
BUILD THE WING PANELS Spar in the notches of ribs W-2 through W-7. The the bottom spar to all ribs except W-1.
aft edge of the inner spar will be slightly higher
❏ ❏ 1. Place a Wing Panel plan on a flat building than the ribs to allow for trimming later. Sight down
board and cover it with waxed paper. Cutting the the trailing edges of the ribs to make sure they are
wing panel sections apart makes handling easier. aligned. Use paper shims under the jig tabs to ❏ ❏ 8. Draw a line connecting the two punch marks
raise any ribs that are low. Glue the aft inner spar on the die-cut 1/8" plywood Dihedral Gauge.
to the ribs making sure all the jig tabs are
contacting the work surface.

❏ ❏ 9. Use the dihedral gauge and the dowel

plate to set the angle and position of W-1 (see
the photo at step 10). The line on the dihedral
gauge must line up with the offset reference line
on the plans. The location of the rib drawn on the
❏ ❏ 2. Pin a Top Spar to the building board at four plans indicates the centerline of the rib – not
or five locations using the cross-pinning technique where the top of the rib contacts the plans.
shown in the sketch. The extra length should ❏ ❏ 5. Trim the end of the aft inner spar flush with Because of this, the top of the will be slightly offset
extend past the root end of the plan. W-7. Bevel the notches in ribs W-7 through W-11 to the right (or left for the other wing panel).

- 29 -
❏ ❏ 10. Hold the dihedral gauge near the middle
of W-1 and lightly tack glue the rib to the top and
bottom main spars. Do not glue the dowel plate ❏ ❏ 13. Glue a die-cut 1/8" plywood Dowel Plate ❏ ❏ 15. Skip this step if you are NOT going to
until told to do so. (FWD) in the notches of ribs W-1 and W-2. build the optional flaps. Please consider this
strongly – the flaps are not at all difficult to build
and they really add to the flight realism and make
landings lots of fun. Place the die-cut 3/32" balsa
Flap Root Rib W-2F next to W-2 as shown on
the plans. Slip three layers of waxed paper
between W-2 and W-2F up to the “V” notch then
glue W-2F to W-2 forward of the V notch.

FLAP SPAR
❏ ❏ 16. Trial fit the tapered 18" Flap Spar into the
“V” notches just behind the aft inner spar and cut it
❏ ❏ 11. Move the dihedral gauge near the trailing to fit from W-1 to W-7. Make sure it fits all the way
edge of the rib, then using the same technique, set down into the notches so the upward facing
the angle and position of W-1. Glue the rib to the surface is flush with the ribs. Make adjustments to
aft outer spar. the notches if necessary then glue the spar
into position.

❏ ❏ 17. Make two Flap Servo Hatch Supports

❏ ❏ 14. Cut the shaped balsa Leading Edge to and two Aileron (or releasable drop tank) Servo
❏ ❏ 12. Use a spacer (such as one of the dihedral the correct length as shown on the plans and Rails from two of the 1/4" x 3/8" spar cut-offs, then
braces or a flap hatch cover) to position the dowel carefully bevel the ends. Center the leading edge glue them to the notches in the ribs. If you don’t
plate 1/16" in front of the main spars. Glue the vertically on the front edge of the ribs, then glue it plan on using flaps, fill the notches with scrap balsa
dowel plate to ribs W-1 and W-2. to ribs W-2 through W-11. (or you could install the rails anyway).

- 30 -
 Proceed to step 25 if you will be installing
retractable landing gear.

❏ ❏ 21. Test fit a 1/2" x 3/4" x 6-3/4" grooved

Landing Gear Rail into the notches in ribs W-4,
W-5, and W-6. The fit should be snug and the
groove should be facing away from the work FOR RETRACT GEAR ONLY
surface. Be sure that the rail extends past W-4
approximately 3/4" as shown on the plans. Use Hot Tip: The key to a durable landing gear
30-minute epoxy to glue the rail in position. mounting structure is building accuracy and good
glue joints, not lots of epoxy. Please take
your time, plan ahead, and work carefully during
❏ ❏ 18. With the bellcrank facing away from the these steps.
plans, glue the aileron bellcrank plate into the slots
in ribs W-7 and W-8. ❏ ❏ 25. Before using any glue or drilling any
holes, test fit the plywood retract rails in
the notches of ribs W-5 and W-6 together with
your retracts.

❏ ❏ 22. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the 1/2" x

3/4" x 1" maple Landing Gear Block to the top of
the rail and the side of W-4F.

❏ ❏ 19. Test fit Tip Ribs W-12 and W-13 and the
die-cut 1/8" plywood Tip Spar to the tip of the
wing. Make sure W-13 is vertical and the jig tabs ❏ ❏ 26. Remove a section from ribs W-4 and W-3
are contacting the work surface, then glue the so you may retract the landing gear, preferably
assembly in position. with the wheel installed, into the wing. The shape
or size of the pieces of wood you remove does
not matter as long as it provides enough room
❏ ❏ 23. Draw a line 3/16" from W-4F on the to allow the wheel and landing gear to fully
landing gear rail. retract. These scraps will be glued back in place
after this operation.

❏ ❏ 27. With the landing gear fully retracted,

❏ ❏ 20. Locate the 5/8" x 1" x 7" balsa stick and ❏ ❏ 24. Carefully drill a 3/16" hole at this mark in confirm that the strut and wheel go into the wing
make the Tip Leading Edge. Bevel each end as the middle of the groove all the way through the an acceptable amount. NOTE: With the standard
shown on the plans. Glue the tip leading edge maple block with the drill perpendicular to the Robart wire strut installation, the landing gear and
in position. rail as shown in the photo.

- 31 -
 elevator construction) to mark the bevel line and aileron skin to the rest of the ribs. Leave the shim
wheels will retract fully into the wheel well. With the rib end line on the inside surfaces of the skins, in place until the wing is removed from the
the CJM retracts and the modifications to the rib then sand the bevel just as you did for the elevator building board.
doublers shown in the sketches, the strut
and rudder skins.Note: Be sure you make a right
protrudes outside the wing skin about 1/16" to
1/8". It may be possible to fully enclose the wheel and left set.
and strut inside the wheel well by deepening the
notches in the plywood rib doublers W-5R but
this is not recommended as it will weaken the
structure.

❏ ❏ 28. Make adjustments to the notches in the

doublers if required, then use 30-minute epoxy to
glue the retract rails in position. ❏ ❏ 36. Wet the outside surface of the other
aileron skin and glue it to the upper skin
❏ ❏ 32. Draw a line on the inside surface of the and ribs.
upper flap skin 3/32" from the outboard tip. This will
indicate exactly where to position the skin over W-7
so you do not glue it to W-7B. Glue the upper flap
skin to the ribs. Hint: Refrain from using
accelerator during this step so that the CA you
use to glue on the bottom flap skin will not
prematurely cure.
❏ ❏ 29. (Optional) Make a Front Retract Rail
Sheer Web from a 2-1/2" wide piece of 5-ply
❏ ❏ 33. If building flaps, push a pin between W-2B
aircraft plywood (not supplied). Glue it to the and W-2 through the Upper Flap Skin about 1/8"
front retract rail and the rib doublers with from the end of the ribs. This “point” will be used
later as a reference of where to cut the flap root ❏ ❏ 37. Custom fit, then glue eight 1/16" balsa
30-minute epoxy. NOTE: This front retract rail
sheer web is recommended for solid strut type away from the wing. Vertical Grain Shear Webs to the rear of the main
retracts or flyers who fly off of rough grass fields spars between all ribs except W-1 and W-2, and
but is optional and not required for coil type ❏ ❏ 34. Glue the lower flap skin to the wing W-2 and W-3. NOTE: It’s still important to keep the
wire struts. and the trailing edge of the upper flap skin with wing on your flat building board. When you remove
Retract installation will be completed after thick CA. two crossed pins to glue in a shear web, replace
the wing panels are joined. This will allow you to one pin by pushing it through the shear web and
insure that both installations are identical by spar into the building board.
comparing the two and making small
adjustments if required. ❏ ❏ 38. Remove the wing from the building board.
Carefully trim off all jig tabs except the jig tabs on
❏ ❏ 30. Use a sanding block and 150-grit W-1 and W-11. Sand the ends of the spars and the
sandpaper to blend the upward facing surfaces of flap sheeting flush with W-1.
the wing ribs and spars.
❏ ❏ 35. Wet the outside surface of the top aileron Return to step 1 to build the other wing panel.
skin. Position it on the wing and glue it only to ribs Use the other half of the wing plan and
❏ ❏ 31. Use the patterns provided on the plans to W-7B - W-10. Cut a piece of scrap balsa so that remember to build a right and a left wing panel.
make the Upper and Lower Flap Skins and the when inserted in between the skin and the building
Aileron Skins from four 1/16" x 3" x 36" balsa board it raises the skin in alignment with the tip of
sheets. Use the bevel gauge (assembled during the aft outer spar. Insert the shim, then glue the

- 32 -
 JOIN THE WING PANELS

❏ 4. Test fit the wing bolt plate into each wing

panel. Make adjustments if necessary.
❏ 1. Cut away the portion of rib W-1 behind the ❏ 6. When you have confirmed that all parts fit
dowel plate and 1/16" behind the main spars. Cut well, disassemble the pieces. Coat the dihedral
away the portion of rib W-2 behind the main spars braces where they will contact the spars, the spars
on the line you drew earlier. This will allow the (where they will contact the dihedral braces of
dihedral braces to pass through the ribs. Do this to course) and W-1’s with 30-minute epoxy.
both wing panels. Reassemble the wing parts and place the wing on
the dihedral block and wing jig sticks as you did in
IMPORTANT: Check your work surface with a
the previous step. Make sure the wing is properly
metal straightedge to make sure that it’s
jigged and all parts are in position. Clamp the
perfectly flat before proceeding. Make a “dry
dihedral braces to the spars. Clamp the W-1’s
run” of step 5 before actually performing it with
together. Use a cloth to remove excess epoxy
glue. Predetermine where you will place clamps
before it cures.
on the dihedral braces and W-1’s.

❏ 7. After the epoxy has cured, remove the

clamps. Do not remove the jig tabs from W-11
and W-1 yet. Glue the die-cut 1/8" plywood rib
doublers W-1D and W-2D to ribs W-1 and W-2 as
❏ 2. Test fit both die-cut 1/16" plywood Dihedral shown on the plans. Apply a fillet of epoxy around
Braces into each wing half. Make sure the brace the wing bolt plate and where both W-1’s meet the
centerline can go all the way to the wing centerline. aft plywood dihedral brace.
Trim the ends of the brace slightly if required.

❏ 5. Join the wing halves with the dihedral braces

and the wing bolt plate. Place the wing upside down
on your flat work table. Slide the 1/2" x 2" x 6-1/2"
balsa Wing Dihedral Block under W-1’s and the
1/4" x 1/4" x 7-7/8" balsa Wing Jig Sticks under the
W-11’s at each wing tip. The dihedral block and wing
jig sticks should be positioned so they contact the jig
❏ 3. Align the holes of the die-cut 1/8" plywood tabs and the top main spar. The 1/2" side of the
Wing Bolt Plates (TOP) and (BOTTOM) then glue block should be contacting the work surface and the ❏ 8. Glue the last two 1/16" shear webs between
them together. wing, and the 2" side of the block should be vertical. W-2 and W-3 on both sides of the wing.

- 33 -
 PREPARATIONS BEFORE ADDING All balsa sheeting will usually bend when it’s
BOTTOM WING SHEETING cut from the log since stresses are relieved. For the
best results, trim the edges of the wing sheeting
❏ 1. Sand the 3/16" x 36" Outer Pushrod Tube so with a long metal straightedge and a sharp knife
glue will stick to it. Cut it to the lengths shown on before joining them.
the plans for the right and left wing panel. Slide the
pushrod tubes through the holes in the ribs and
glue the tubes in position.
❏ A. After sorting the sheets used for the top and
If not installing retracts, skip the next three steps. bottom, and truing the edges of each sheet, use
❏ 1. Sort through the remaining 1/16" x 3" x 30" masking tape spaced about every 4" along the
❏ 2. Test fit both retracts in the wing and confirm balsa and pick out the best eight sheets to be used seam of the two sheets to tightly hold them
that the struts are at the same angle when for the top surfaces of the wing panels. Pick out together.
retracted and extended. Make adjustments if eight more 1/16" x 3" x 30" sheets to use on the
bottom of the wing.
necessary, then drill the retract mounting holes ❏ B. Lay a 30" long sheet of waxed paper on the
for the mounting screws recommended by work table.
the manufacturer.
❏ 2. Lay waxed paper over a flat, smooth
work surface.

❏ 3. Make a wing skin half by edge gluing two

1/16" sheets together. Refer to the Hot Tip below ❏ C. Apply a light bead of aliphatic resin to one
for tips on making skins. of the edges of the taped together sheets then
immediately lay it down on the waxed paper.
❏ 3. Temporarily mount the retracts to the rails,
then use left over balsa to build a supporting base
for the sheeting, as shown in the photo.

❏ 4. After you have completed the retract

installation in both wing panels, remove the landing HOW TO PREJOIN SHEETS
gear. Replace and glue in the scraps of wood you FOR WING SKINS
removed from W-3 and W-4.
Following is a recommended method of
SHEET THE BOTTOM OF THE WING prejoining the 30" long sheets used to make the
wing skin halves with Aliphatic Resin. The ❏ D. Use a credit card or piece of thin, rigid
Our suggested wing sheeting process allows plastic as a squeegee to simultaneously wipe
quantity of aliphatic resin used to glue sheets of
you to sheet the wing panels with two skins per away the excess glue and press the two sheets
wood together is easier to control than CA and
side with the only seam conveniently placed down so the edges are even.
sands easier as well. The result is a wing skin
directly over the main spar. This technique is better
with nearly invisible glue joints that requires little
than sheeting the wing with individual sheets, ❏ E. Use a sanding block and 220-grit
presanding. Less presanding allows you to avoid
easier than sheeting the wing with one big sheet sandpaper to presand the sheets before fitting
making the 1/16” skins too thin.
and allows you to presand all of the seams that and gluing to the wing.
will be over open structure.

- 34 -
NOTE: The steps below show the sheeting of a Hint: The best balsa filler, is no balsa filler! Take with a Clevis Retainer on the horn end and a
wing with functioning flaps. Wings without flaps are your time fitting all sheeting and skins in place. Nylon Faslink on the bellcrank end. Make the
sheeted the same way. With a little bit of careful sanding you will be pushrods the length shown on the wing plan
rewarded with perfectly matched joints and a top view.
lighter, stronger airframe.
❏ 4. Fit one of the 1/16" x 6" x 30" balsa skins you
just made in place on a wing panel, with one edge ❏ 7. Glue the other forward bottom wing skin to ❏ ❏ 3. Enlarge the outer hole (that the Faslink will
butted against the LE. Trim the leading edge at the the wing. connect to) of both bellcranks with a 5/64" (or #49)
tip to match the sweep of the wing outboard of drill bit. Install the pushrods with the Faslinks.
W-11. After you are satisfied with that fit, trim the ❏ 8. Make the Aft Bottom wing skins. The trailing
trailing edge so it ends at the center of the bottom edge of the aft bottom sheet doesn’t have to be cut
main spar. Save the large scraps of sheeting. Trim perfectly – it only needs to cover the inner and
the root of the sheet so it ends at the seam outer trailing edges so make the skin just a little
between the W-1’s and trim the tip about 1/4" past wider and trim it later. Cut the aileron pushrod exit
W-13. Make both Forward Bottom wing skins. and glue 1/16" balsa strips to the inside of the
sheeting on both sides of the exit. Fit both skins.
❏ ❏ 4. Make the left and right Inner Aileron
❏ 5. Place the wing upside down on your flat Pushrods from one 36" Threaded Both Ends
building table as it was when you were gluing the Rod. Start by cutting a left pushrod that is 17-1/2"
two halves together. Use the wing dihedral block long and a right pushrod that is 15-5/8" long. Cut
and the wing jig sticks. six 1/4" long pieces from the inner pushrod tube
and slide three evenly spaced pieces onto
each rod.
NOTE: The bottom of the wing must be
sheeted with the jig tabs on the dihedral ❏ 9. Glue the aft bottom wing skins in place.
block and the wing jig sticks in position to NOTE: If you are not building flaps, there should
❏ ❏ 5. Use silver solder to solder a brass
avoid twists. Threaded Coupler onto the non-threaded end of
be no gap between the flap and the aft bottom wing
each rod. Thread the Dual-end Ball Link onto
skin. Use the strip of sheeting removed from the
the threaded coupler of only the left (longer)
forward skin halves to fill this gap. Remove jig tabs
pushrod and slide it into the pushrod guide in the
from the W-1 and W-11 ribs.
left wing. Slide the other pushrod into the guide in
PREPARE THE WING FOR THE TOP SHEETING the right wing.
❏ ❏ 1. Use a T-pin to poke a hole through the
bottom sheeting in the four corners made by the ❏ ❏ 6. Screw a Clevis with a Clevis Retainer
flap servo hatch rails and the ribs. Use the 1/16" onto the “bellcrank end” of each pushrod. Screw
ply flap servo hatches and the pin holes as a guide the threaded coupler of the right pushrod into the
to remove the bottom wing sheeting for the flap dual-ended ball link (two pliers will be required for
❏ 6. Apply a bead of thick CA to all of the structure
servo hatch. this operation).
that the front wing skin half will touch. Press the
wing skin down onto the frame and hold it until the
CA cures. Use masking tape or T-pins if ❏ ❏ 7. Temporarily connect the clevises to the
necessary. Hint: Even if you use thick CA you still bellcranks. Adjust the length of each rod by
must proceed rapidly while positioning the wing screwing or unscrewing the clevises as required.
skin. Many modelers prefer aliphatic resin for The length of the rods is correct when both
gluing wing skins in position. This allows much bellcranks are positioned at 90 degrees to the
more time to accurately position the wing skin. ❏ ❏ 2. Make the Outer Aileron Pushrods from support (AB). Snap the clevises onto the
T-pins should be used to hold the skin to the ribs. the 4" Threaded End Rod. Use a Nylon Clevis bellcranks, then position the clevis retainers.

- 35 -
 ❏ ❏ 12. If you will be installing fixed landing
gear, use the same technique to locate the position
of the LG blocks. Push a pin through the sheeting at
each end of the grooved block, then drill a 3/16" hole
through the sheeting at the location of
the LG block. Trim the sheeting from the groove. in
the LG block to accommodate the landing gear.

❏ ❏ 15. Make six Aileron Hinge Blocks from the

3/8" x 1/2" x 9" balsa stick. Glue them to the outer
❏ ❏ 8. Install a Ball Stud with a Nut onto a servo trailing edge and the bottom sheeting in the
arm. Use epoxy or plastic compatible thread lock to locations shown on the plans. Mark the location of
permanently secure the nut to the ball stud. Snap the aileron hinge blocks on the outside of the outer
the ball stud into the dual-end ball link then fit the trailing edge. Be sure the tip end block is flush or
servo arm to the servo. Confirm that both below the TE.
bellcranks are centered as described in the
previous step, then mount the servo to the servo
rails. Add a few drops of thin CA to the holes in the
balsa servo rails, then let it soak in and cure to give
the wood screws some more “bite”. ❏ ❏ 13. If installing retracts, cut strips from a
1/16" x 3" x 30" balsa sheet to fit between ribs W-2
❏ ❏ 9. Cut two pieces from a 3/16" x 3/16" x 24" and W-3, W-3 and W-4, and W-4 and W-5. Notice
balsa stick and glue them between both W-2’s and the grain direction. Glue the strips to the inside of
W-1’s to make a “ledge” for the sheeting. the bottom wing skins on both sides of the wing.
This will strengthen the wing skins around the
❏ ❏ 16. If installing the Outboard Drop Tank
wheel well cutouts.
Pylons, cut four 1" long blocks from the 1/4" x 3/8"
x 9" Outer Pylon Mounting Rail glue the blocks to
rib W-7 in the bottom sheeting in the locations
shown on the plans. Poke a pin through the
sheeting on both sides of the blocks then, drill a
5/64" hole through the sheeting between the blocks
into the rib.

❏ ❏ 10. Mark the location where the wing bolts will

pass through the bottom sheeting. Hint: Push a
sharpened piece of 1/4" brass tubing through the
wing bolt plate and out through the sheeting.
❏ ❏ 14. If installing flaps, make six Flap Hinge ❏ ❏ 17. Trim the ends of the 7/16" x 1-5/8" x
❏ ❏ 11. Mark the approximate location of the flap Blocks from the shaped 5/8" x 9" stock. Glue them 6-5/16" balsa Wing Center LE block until it fits on
servo hatches (if installing flaps). Use a pin to poke to the inner trailing edge and the bottom sheeting the forward dowel plates between the leading
holes through the sheeting at the corners of the in the locations shown on the plans. Mark the edges. Cut the slight “V” shape to match the
flap servo hatch inside the servo hatch rails and location of the flap hinge blocks on the outside of dihedral of the wing then place the wing center LE
ribs W-3 and W-4. the inner trailing edge. back on the wing.

- 36 -
 SHEET THE TOP OF THE WING
The top of the wing will be sheeted in four sections
like the bottom of the wing.

❏ 1. Temporarily reinstall the 1/4" wing dowels in

the wing. Locate the die-cut 1/8" plywood Leading
❏ ❏ 21. Make the cutouts in the bottom wing skin Edge Jigs, Trailing Edge Jigs (A) and (B), and the
for the retracts. It’s easiest to first make the cutout Tip Jigs. Assemble the trailing edge jig (A) and (B).
❏ ❏ 18. Mark the location of the wing dowels from for the retract mount and strut without the wheel.
inside the wing. Remove the wing center LE and Mount the wheel to the strut and make the cutout
drill 1/4" holes at the marks. Hint: Use a sharpened for the wheel. Allow more clearance behind the
1/4" brass tube to mark the location and to “punch” wheel than in front of the wheel–the more
the holes–it really does a clean job. Do not glue clearance the less trouble you are likely to have at
the wing center LE in place yet. the flying field with the retracts hanging up in the
wheel well (3/32" - 1/4" behind the wheel
❏ ❏ 19. Test fit, but do not glue, the 1/4" x 5-3/8" is realistic). ❏ 2. Place the leading edge jigs onto the dowels
wing dowels with the wing center LE. Make
and set the wing on your flat building table with the
adjustments if required then remove the dowels
trailing edge jig in the center of the wing under the
and the wing center LE. Hint: Slightly round the
trailing edge. Hint: Tack glue the jigs in position.
front of the dowels to allow them to plug into
the fuselage.

Proceed to step 21 if installing

retractible landing gear.
❏ ❏ 22. Now is a good time to fuelproof inside the
wheel wells where you will not be able to reach with
a paint brush after the top wing sheeting is in place.
❏ ❏ 20. Test fit both prebent 3/16" landing gear NOTE: If you elect to coat the inside of the wheel
wires in the landing gear blocks. Temporarily wells later, it must be done before the covering is
mount the landing gear wires to the wing with the applied. The paint tends to soak through the wing
nylon straps and #2 x 3/8" screws as shown on the skin which can blemish the covering.
wing plan. Hint: Remove the balsa sheeting from
under the straps so they will be inset in the bottom ❏ ❏ 23. If you plan to make the outboard drop
of the wing. tanks releasable, install the cables and the
mechanism now. The instructions included with the ❏ 3. Place the die-cut 1/8" plywood tip jigs under
drop tanks include general information on how to each wing tip directly under ribs W-11. The tabs at
hookup the release system and cables. the aft edge of the tip jigs should contact the
trailing edge of the ailerons at W-11. Now the wing
❏ ❏ 24. If you haven’t already done so, remove is ready for sheeting.
the remaining jig tabs. Use a sanding block on the
upper surfaces of the wing to blend all the ribs, ❏ 4. Make the upper forward skin halves just like
spars and trailing edges. Inspect all glue joints and you made the bottom forward skin halves. Save the
add CA to any joints that don’t look strong. large scraps for the upper aft sheeting.

- 37 -
 BUILD THE FLAPS

❏ 6. Join each strip of wood trimmed off the upper

forward skins to each of the remaining two 6" x 30"
sheets to make the Upper Aft Skins. Trim the ❏ ❏ 1. Remember the pin hole you made in the
upper aft skins to fit the wing. If building flaps, there upper flap skin? Insert a pin through this hole,
should be a 1/16" gap between the flap and the between W-2F and W-2, through the lower
sheeting. If not building flaps, no gap should exist. flap skin.

❏ 7. Glue the upper aft skins to the wing. Weights

placed over the sheeting in addition to T-pins will
Hint: Before performing step #5, make marks on hold the skins down to the ribs while the
the leading edge and main spar at each rib then glue cures.
transfer them to the sheeting. Lightly draw lines
connecting the marks on the sheeting so you know
where to insert the pins. First, apply a bead of
aliphatic resin to only the ribs, then position the ❏ 8. After the glue has cured, remove the wing ❏ ❏ 2. Use this point as a reference of where to
from your building board. If you did a good job cut the flap away from the wing. Use a #11 blade to
sheet on the wing and glue the leading edge of the
prejoining the sheeting and kept the sanding to a cut through the upper and lower flap skin and a
sheet to the leading edge of the wing with CA. Pin
minimum, you should have a pretty solid wing. Trim razor saw to cut through the shaped flap spar on
the sheeting to the ribs and glue the aft edge of the
the sheeting where it protrudes past the edge of the bottom of the flap.
sheeting to the spar with CA.
the wing tips.

❏ 9. Razor plane and sand the wing leading edge

until it blends well with the sheeting to form a
smooth airfoil. Refer to the cross sections on the
plans. Final sanding of the leading edge near the
tips should be done after the tip blocks have
been added.
❏ ❏ 3. Turn the wing upside down and separate
the flap from the wing by cutting each rib with a
razor saw. Do not cut into W-2 and W-7 but only
cut through the flap root ribs glued to them (W-2F
❏ 5. While the wing is sitting on the jigs, glue both NOTE: If you are not building the operational and W-7B respectively). The cut should be made at
forward skins to the wing. Place weights in the flaps, skip the following section and proceed to the front edge of the top and bottom flap skins. You
middle of the wing to hold it down to the jigs. build the ailerons.

- 38 -
will see the punch marks in the ribs that can be ❏ ❏ 8. Remove the plywood flap horn and tack ❏ ❏ 12. Reinforce the underside of the wing
used as a guideline as well. Reference the cross glue the other, shorter flap LE in position. sheeting (where it overhangs the aft inner spar at
sections of the wing plans. the Flaps) by gluing leftover 1/16" x 1/4" balsa
strips between the ribs on the underside of the
❏ ❏ 4. Carefully remove the flap from the wing. If top sheeting.
CA has glued the waxed paper layers together, cut
the inboard and outboard ends of the flaps free ❏ 13. Repeat steps 1 - 12 for the other Flap.
with a razor saw.
FIT THE FLAPS
❏ 1. Test fit the flaps to the wing. “Fine tune” the
ribs, ends of the flaps and top wing sheeting in the
flap section until you get a good fit between the flap
and the wing. Sand a bevel along the trailing edge
❏ ❏ 9. Cut out the cross sections of the flap root of the wing sheeting in the flap section to allow the
and tip from the wing plans and tack glue them to flap to clear when it’s in the up position.
❏ ❏ 5. Sand the LE of the Flap Ribs flush (and at each end of the flap (3M 75 Repositionable Spray
the same angle) with the Flap Spar. Use a long Adhesive recommended). Shape the flap LE to
T-bar or sanding block to maintain a straight LE. match the cross section on the plans (now on the
NOTE: Stop sanding when the T-Bar contacts the ends of your flap). A razor plane and a long
flap sheeting. Do not sand the flap sheeting as this sanding bar with coarse sandpaper help the job go
will change the height of your flaps and cause the quickly and accurately. Save the cutouts for the
flaps to fit the wing improperly. other flap.

❏ ❏ 6. Set the flap over the plans and mark the ❏ ❏ 10. Remove the shorter tack glued flap
location of the 1/16" die-cut birch ply Flap Horn. leading edge. Install and permanently glue in the
NOTE: There is a different Flap Horn location for plywood flap horn, then permanently glue the flap
leading edge back in place. ❏ 2. Assemble the two Flap Drill Guides (A & B)
each flap. Insert but do not glue the Flap Horn by gluing the six die-cut 1/8" ply pieces as shown.
into the flap. Hint: Glue a piece of 7/32" brass tubing to
the drill guides for even more accurate drilling of
the holes.

❏ ❏ 11. Trim off the excess ribs from the Inner Aft
Spar, then use a 3/4" dowel wrapped with 220 grit
sandpaper to sand a radius on the protruding
❏ ❏ 7. Cut the 5/8" x 1-3/8" x 14-1/4" balsa Flap portions of the ribs. Use a #11 blade to carefully
LE to fit on both sides of the Flap Horn. Cut a 1/16" shave the remnants of W-2F and W-7B from the ❏ 3. Position the wing flap drill guide on the wing
deep notch in one of the Flap LE sections to allow ribs. Cut a 1/4" x 1/2" slot in the aft Inner spar to at each hinge block (you marked earlier) and drill
passage of the Flap Horn. Glue the longest Flap allow the Flap Horn and Clevis to pass (be careful the holes for the hinge points in the wing. Hint:
LE in position exactly as shown on the plan, with if you’re using a Dremel tool–don’t cut into the top Instead of a drill bit, use a piece of 3/16" tubing
the top of the Flap flush with the top of the Flap LE. wing sheeting). sharpened at one end to make the holes.

- 39 -
❏ 4. Insert three #309 Robart Super Hinge plans. When the base fits, apply glue only to the
Points into the wing but do not glue them in side and the top of the base and then
until after the wing and the flaps are covered. permanently glue it in position.
Fit the flap to the wing and mark the locations of
the hinge points on the flap.

❏ 5. Use the Flap Drill Guide to drill the holes in

the flap just as you did in the wing. ❏ 6. With the centerline of the aileron as a guide,
use a razor plane and a sanding bar to make a
❏ 6. Cut 1/4" off the end that fits into the flap of bevel for the aileron deflection. Reference the
the outermost hinge point. Test fit the flaps to the cross section on the plans.
wing with the hinges. Adjust the position (depth)
of each hinge in the flap and the wing until the
flap sets back in its original position before it was ❏ 3. Center and glue a 5/16" x 5/8" x 15" Aileron
first cut from the wing. Check the fit and run the Leading Edge Cap to the aileron. Use a razor
flaps through their complete range of motion. plane, then a sanding block to blend the leading
Make any required adjustments until the flaps edge to the shape of the aileron. Trim the ends so
swing freely. Remember, the flaps must close they are flush.
flush against the wing TE.
❏ 7. Mark the location of the 1/8" x 3/4" x 3/4"
plywood Aileron Horn Block on the bottom of the
BUILD THE AILERONS aileron. Cut away the sheeting, leading edge and
part of the balsa horn block mount until the horn
block fits flush with the aileron.

❏ 4. Use the marks made earlier on the outer

trailing edge of the wing (or the plans) to mark the
locations of the hinges on the aileron.

❏ 1. Use a razor saw to cut the ribs and remove

the ailerons from the wing. Use a sanding block to
true the trailing edge of the wing and the leading
edge of the aileron.
❏ 8. Glue the aileron horn block in position, then
use a sanding block to blend it to the shape of the
aileron. Test fit the aileron to the wing with the
hinges. Connect a Small Control Horn to the
clevis on the aileron pushrod. Mark the location of
the control horn on the horn block in the position
indicated on the plans. Drill 1/16" holes for the #2 x
3/8" sheet metal screws that secure the horn.
❏ 2. Bevel one side of the shaped balsa Aileron ❏ 5. Draw a centerline on the leading edge of the Some modelers temporarily connect the ailerons
Horn Shim so it will match the angle of the rib aileron. Cut the hinge slots in the aileron and for radio set-up prior to covering the model or this
inside the aileron at the location shown on the the wing. can be saved until after covering.

- 40 -
 ❏ 12. Complete the sheeting of the wing by filling MOUNT THE WING TO THE FUSE
any spaces that have not been sheeted with left
over 1/16" balsa – areas such as the aft center ❏ 1. Trim the fuselage sheeting until it accurately
section of the wing where the flaps have not been matches the contour of the balsa wing saddles.
cut away from the wing and the corner of the wing Sand only to the balsa saddles and do not change
where the flap and ailerons meet. the shape of the plywood crutches as this
determines the wing incidence.

❏ 2. Set the wing in the fuselage with the dowels in

the dowel holes in former F-2. Make slight
adjustments to the dowel holes in F-2 if required.

❏ 13. Cut the hole in the top wing sheeting for the
1/4" x 2" nylon wing bolts. Hint: Push a 1/4" brass
tube sharpened at one end through the hole in the
❏ 9. Glue the wing tip blocks to the wing tip at bottom sheeting (made earlier) and through the
each W-13. Refer to the plans, then shape the tips wing bolt plate into the top sheeting. Use a backup ❏ 3. Align the wing with the fuselage by holding a
with a razor plane and a sanding block. block so you don’t punch a hole through your hand! string with one end attached to a pin centered at
the tail, up to a wing tip. Put a piece of tape on the
❏ 10. Temporarily install the wing dowels, then string to mark the intersection of the string and the
glue the partially shaped wing center leading edge wing tip. Swing the string over to the other wing tip
to the wing. and check to see if the distances are the same.
Adjust the position of the wing until it is properly
aligned.

❏ 14. Insert the wing bolt into the holes you made.
The heads of the bolts will stop at the sheeting
because you have not enlarged the holes yet. NOTE: Make sure the wing is held
securely and cannot shift while you are drilling
❏ 15. Place the cardboard wing tube over the the mounting holes.
heads of the bolts and trace around them with a
pen. Remove the tube and the bolts then make the
holes for the wing bolt tubes. Slightly enlarge the
1/4" holes in the top of the wing sheeting to allow
❏ 11. Remove the dowels and use a razor plane the wing bolts to pass easily.
and a sanding block to blend the center leading
edge to the rest of the wing. After the shaping is Oh boy! We can get a good idea of how big this
done, glue the dowels in the wing with 30-minute thing is going to be and how cool it’s going to look
epoxy. Be certain that the dowels are “keyed” into by mounting the wing to the fuse and setting it on ❏ 4. With the wing aligned and held in place (tape or
the aft dowel plate – look in the wheel wells its landing gear for the first time! This will only take tack glued), insert a 1/4” drill and lightly mark the
through ribs W-2. a few minutes... center of the wing mount holes on the mount blocks.

- 41 -
 ❏ ❏ 3. Trial fit a 1/32" plywood Wing Fillet Base
on the wing saddle of the fuselage. Make
adjustments if required. Use a hobby knife with a
#11 blade to lightly scribe a line on the fillet base
from the corner where it meets the rear of the
fuselage out to the edge–cut only through the
bottom layer of the three-ply plywood.

❏ 5. Remove the wing and finish drilling the holes ❏ 8. Use a sharp knife or a Moto-Tool with a
with a #10 (13/64") drill bit through the wing mount sanding drum to adjust the “curve” of both the fillet
blocks. Tap the holes with a 1/4-20 tap. Add a bases so it meets the trailing edge of the flap.
couple drops of thin CA to the holes to harden the
threads, then re-tap the holes after the CA has
fully cured. NOTE: The wing fillet may be built up
with small balsa blocks or you may use the
technique described below.
❏ ❏ 4. Tape the fillet base to the plywood saddles
BUILD THE WING FILLET in a few spots.

❏ 5. Perform the previous three steps for the other

fillet base.

❏ 6. Tape a layer of waxed paper or plastic food

❏ 1. With the wing bolted to the fuselage. Mark a wrap to the top surface of the wing in the wing
reference line on both sides where the wing trailing saddle area. Bolt the wing firmly onto the fuselage.
edge and leading edge contacts the fuselage. Check to make sure there is no interference with ❏ 9. Cut the 24" x 1/4" balsa triangle stick half. Mark
Remove the wing from the fuselage. the wing saddle and make adjustments if required. both halves every 1/2" for the first 4" then two more
marks 1" after that. Use a razor saw to cut about 3/4
the way through the triangle stock at the marks.

❏ 7. With the wing bolted to the fuselage, carefully

❏ ❏ 2. Place a straight edge on the fuselage at the “bend-up” the portion of the wing fillet at the scribe
indication marks you made in the previous step line and align it on the fuselage with the line you
and draw a line from the rear indication line about drew earlier. When the wing fillet is in position, glue ❏ 10. Glue the triangle stock to the fillet base and
3" aft. the wing fillet to the fuselage with medium CA. the fuselage with medium CA.

- 42 -
 ❏ 4. Place two more 3/16" stringers in the notches
from 5-E to F-1 then glue the stringers to all the
formers except 2-C.

❏ 11. (Optional) Use the template on the plans to ❏ 14. Now the fun part! Get out the balsa filler
make two sets of wing fillet braces from left over (Hobbico HobbyLite recommended) and begin
1/8" lite ply. Glue the braces to the fillet and the building up a smooth fillet. This should be done in
fuselage sides. This will make the fillet more at least three layers letting the previous layer fully
durable in case of rough handling during transport. dry before applying the next. Hint: Wet your fingers
when forming the final layers and you will really be
able to “feather in” the fillet to the fuselage. This
will require minimal sanding in the end.

❏ 5. Adjust the position of 2-C so you can place a

BUILD THE WING BELLY PAN shim such as a metal ruler or a piece of 1/32"
plywood between 2-C and F-2. Glue 2-C to the
❏ 1. Bolt the wing to the fuselage and set the stringers and the wing.
model upside down on your building stand.
Reference the plans for the locations of the die-cut
1/8" plywood Belly Formers 3-C and 4-C then
mark their position on the bottom of the wing.
❏ 12. To make finishing of the fillet easier, remove
the wing from the fuselage. Cut a tapered piece of Skip to step 1 “Sheet the Belly Pan” if you are not
1/16" sheet balsa as shown in the photos. Test fit it ❏ 2. Test fit 5-E and make sure that when in going to install the releasable drop tank.
against the wing saddle and refine the fit. A little position at the trailing edge of the wing, it is the
concave curvature on the side that contacts the same height as 5-D. Make adjustments to 5-E if
plywood wing fillet helps. required then glue it to the wing only. Cut a 3/16"
square stringer to fit between 5-E and F-1. Glue
the stringer to 5-E and F-1 only.

❏ 6. Glue a 3/16" square stringer to the side of the

middle stringer between 2-C and 3-C (just like you
❏ 13. Make another of sheet balsa to fit behind the ❏ 3. Position 2-C, 3-C and 4-C, under the stringer did for the tail wheel installation). Cut a notch in the
first piece in the “corner” of the fillet. These pieces at their proper locations. You may have to bevel middle stringer to allow actuation of the Great
don’t have to fit very accurately; we are just trying the lower aft edge of 2-C so it will fit between the Planes release mechanism (remove the aft post
to fill some of the space and save a little on the wing and F-2. Glue 3-C and 4-C but not 2-C to from the release mechanism). Glue another 3/16"
amount of filler. the wing. stringer to the other side of the middle stringer.

- 43 -
 Insert the tubes in the wing, trace a line on them
using the sheeting as a guide then cut the tubes to
the approximate beveled shape. Glue the tubes to
the belly pan side sheet and the wing sheeting. Be
careful not to get any glue on the heads of the
nylon wing bolts and accidentally glue the bolts
to the tubes or wing bolt plate.

❏ 7. Make a Mounting Post from left over 1/8" ❏ 2. Use a pen to mark on the belly pan sides the
lite-ply to secure the outer pushrod tube for the location of the gap between fuselage former F-2
release mechanism. Position it so that when the and the forward belly pan former 2C (so you know
cable guide tube is inserted through the bottom where to guide the razor saw when the belly pan is
sheeting next to the W-1 ribs, it lines up with the separated from the fuselage).
release mechanism. Glue the post to the stringer
and the bottom wing sheeting.

❏ 5. Make a bottom belly pan sheet from 3/32" x

3" x 24" balsa. After you have custom fit the first
section (but before you have glued it in place), use
it as a template to make the other half. If you are
installing the drop tank release mechanism, use
the outline you drew on the center stringers as a
guide to cut out a section of balsa to clear it. Glue
the sheet in position.

❏ 3. Estimate the location and cut the oval shaped

holes for the wing bolt tubes in each belly pan side ❏ 6. As you did in step 2, use a pen to mark the
❏ 8. Glue two more shorter 3/16" stringers next to sheet. Start by making a small hole in the sheeting location of the gap between F-2 and 2C on the
the middle stringer behind 3-C to support the above the wing bolts and adjust the position of the bottom sheet.
sheeting around the release mechanism. Mount hole as you enlarge it. Hint: If you have accurately
the release mechanism to the middle stringer with positioned belly pan former 4-C, the center of the
the screws supplied then trace its outline on the hole will be 1/4" (17/64" to be exact) ahead of it; ❏ 7. Make another bottom belly pan sheet for the
stringers. Remove the release mechanism. and the inner edge of the hole should cut about other side and glue it in position.
half-way through the side stringer.

SHEET THE BELLY PAN

❏ 1. Trace the bottom of the wing (on the fuse
plan) to make a pattern for the belly pan sheeting.
Make two belly pan sides from 3/32" x 3" x 24"
balsa sheet. The belly pan sides extend from the ❏ 8. After the belly pan is completed, use a razor
bottom wing sheeting to the middle of the first plane and sandpaper to rough shape the belly pan.
stringer. Test fit each sheet, make adjustments as ❏ 4. Test fit the tube in each hole and confirm that With the marks made on the belly pan sheeting as
required, then glue them to the stringer, bottom it will fit over the head of the wing bolts. Make a guide, saw through the belly pan sheeting with a
wing sheeting and the formers. adjustments then cut two 2" sections from the tube. razor saw and separate the wing from the fuselage.

- 44 -
❏ 9. Use balsa filler to build up a small fillet ❏ 3. Carefully wick thin CA around the joints and
between the belly pan and the wing and fill any allow the parts to cure. Do not use CA
other gaps between the sections of belly pan accelerator.
sheeting. Trim the forward bottom fuselage
sheeting flush with former F-1.

BUILD AND FIT THE COWL

❏ 4. Use coarse sandpaper to roughen a 1" wide
strip along the top and bottom joints inside the
cowl. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue a 1" wide strip
of fiberglass tape along the top and bottom joints.
Hint: When the epoxy is nearly cured and still in a
“gummy” state, dip your finger in alcohol and “rub
down” the epoxy soaked glass tape to be sure it
conforms to all the curves and bumps on the
glue joints.
❏ 7. Use the template on the plans to cut the Cowl
Ring sections from the 1/2" x 1-3/8" x 24" balsa
sheet. Hint: Use 3M 75 repositionable spray
adhesive to temporarily glue the templates directly
onto the 1/2" thick balsa sheet. Cut the sections
❏ 1. Use scissors (Kyosho curved scissors out then peal off the paper templates.
recommended) or a new #11 blade and a hobby
knife to cut around the cut lines inside all three ❏ 5. Roughen the glue joints on the outside of the ❏ 8. Test fit the six cowl ring sections with the cowl
parts of the ABS cowl. cowl with sandpaper. Fill the seams with Bondo mounts on the front of the fuselage. Reference the
type automotive body filler. detailed sketch on the plans and note the location
of the cowl mount supports. Hint: With the elevator
and rudder removed from the model, you can stand
the fuselage up on its tail (carefully please) to
easily position the cowl mounts and cowl ring
sections. Make adjustments to the cowl ring
sections of necessary.

❏ 2. Use a sanding block to clean up the edges

and to make any adjustments required for a flush
fit. Roughen the inside edges of all the joints with
coarse sandpaper, then fit the three parts together
and secure them with tape. Hint: If you will not be
installing the optional (but highly recommended) ❏ 6. Refer to the detailed drawings on the plans
Top Flite replica radial engine, trace the outline of and use a pen to mark the base of the twelve
the aft edge of the front part of the cowl onto a die-cut 1/8" plywood Cowl Mount Block ❏ 9. Mark the location of each cowl mount support,
sheet of 1/8" lite ply. After trimming and fitting, this Supports. Glue a hard wood Cowl Mount Block remove the cowl ring sections, then permanently
will be the baffle to direct the air flow directly over to two bases to make a Cowl Mount. Make six of glue the cowl mount supports to the firewall. Hint:
the head of the engine for optimal cooling (the these. Hint: Glue six blocks to the side of six If you’re careful you can glue the cowl mount
outline of this baffle is included with the replica supports. After the glue cures, glue the remaining supports to the firewall while the 1/2" balsa cowl
radial engine kit). six supports to the other side of the six blocks. rings are in position.

- 45 -
 top wing skins in the wheel wells. This will fuelproof
and reinforce the exposed wood inside the wheel
well. This must be done before the covering is
applied as it may blemish the covering.

BALANCE THE AIRPLANE LATERALLY

SPECIAL NOTE: Do not confuse this procedure
with “checking the C.G.” or “balancing the
❏ 10. Remove the cowl rings and set the cowl on airplane fore and aft.”...That very important
the fuselage. Reference the plans for the exact step will be covered later in the manual.
position. Hint: You could mount the engine to the ❏ 14. Tack glue the cowl ring to the firewall, then
fuselage and use it as another reference for sand the sides until they are flush with the fuselage. Now that you have the basic airframe nearly
positioning the cowl. Use a felt tip pen to mark the completed, this is a good time to balance the
❏ 15. Remove the cowl ring sections, then round
location of the mounting screws on the cowl. airplane laterally (side-to-side). Here is how to do it:
the corners as shown on the fuselage plan. After
Remove the cowl and drill 1/16" holes through they have been shaped, permanently glue the
each mark you made. cowl ring sections to the firewall. ❏ 1. Temporarily attach the wing and engine (with
muffler) to the fuselage.
❏ 16. Cut six 1/2" wide blocks from the left over
sheet used for the cowl ring sections. Round the ❏ 2. With the wing level, lift the model by the
blocks as you did the cowl ring sections and insert engine propeller shaft and the fin post (this may
them between the cowl block supports to fill require two people). Do this several times.
the gap. ❏ 3. If one wing always drops when you lift the
model, it means that side is heavy. Balance the
FINISH PREPARATION airplane by gluing weight to the other wing tip.
NOTE: An airplane that has been laterally
FINAL SANDING balanced will track better in loops and
❏ 11. Glue each of the six die-cut 1/32" plywood other maneuvers.
Cowl Reinforcements to the cowl with the punch Nearly every imperfection in your wood
mark centered in the 1/16" holes. Drill through the structure will show through the covering material
holes in the cowl and the reinforcements with a therefore, before covering, you should make a final FINISHING
1/8" drill bit. check of the entire structure. Fix any “dings,” then The P-47 does not require much painting to
sand the entire structure smooth using obtain the trim scheme shown on the box as most
progressively finer grades of sandpaper. Many of the finish is created with Top Flite MonoKote
❏ 12. Reposition the cowl on the fuselage and small indentations can be removed by wetting the film. The only painting that is required are the
confirm that it is in the proper location on the cowl spot and using a sealing iron to “steam” the plastic parts, cockpit and canopy frame, and the
mount blocks. Slight sanding of the cowl mounts ding out. wheel wells. There are many other schemes used
may be required to account for the 1/32" plywood on P-47’s but the one shown on the box has
reinforcements added in the previous step. On the FUELPROOFING proved to be highly visible in the air and represents
cowl mount blocks mark the location of the holes a scale trim scheme.
for the # 4 x 1/2" sheet metal screws. Fuelproofing may be performed before or after covering.
COVERING
❏ 13. Remove the cowl and drill a 3/32” hole ❏ 1. Fuelproof the firewall and fuel tank The technique we will describe here is the how
through each cowl mount block where you made compartment. Grey (mix black and white) K&B the model pictured on the box was finished. In
the mark. Put several drops of thin CA into the epoxy paint or 30-minute epoxy is a highly general, it involves covering most of the model with
holes then re-drill them. Check the fit and recommended fuelproofer. MonoKote film, then priming and painting the cowl
temporarily mount the cowl on the fuselage with and surface details.
the screws and #4 washers. ❏ 2. Fuelproof any external exposed wood such as Make sure the structure is smoothly sanded
wheel wells and pushrod exits. Use epoxy resin to with 320-grit sandpaper. Remove all dust from the
Now it looks like a P-47! glue strips of 3/4 oz. glass cloth to the inside of the structure so the MonoKote film will stick well.

- 46 -
 Cover the aircraft with MonoKote film using the Recommended Covering Sequence:
sequence below. Make sure the MonoKote film is
thoroughly bonded to the structure and all of the 1. Tail fillet strips
edges are sealed. Use a Top Flite MonoKote Hot 2. Rudder left side
Sock on your covering iron to avoid scratching the 3. Rudder right side
COVERING TECHNIQUE 4. Bottom of elevators
MonoKote film. You can practically eliminate wrinkles that 5. Top of elevators
sometimes occur when using film covering 6. Stab TE
(caused when the model is left out in the sun or in 7. Stab bottom
the back of your car) by following this technique 8 Stab top
NOTE: When covering areas that involve fillets and used in the Top Flite model shop. 9. Fin TE
sharp junctions, like the tail section of the P-47, cut 10. Fin left side
narrow strips (3/8" to 5/8") and apply them in the 1. Cover your sealing iron with a Top Flite Hot 11. Fin right side
corners before covering the major surfaces. The Sock and turn the heat about 3/4 of the way to 12. Wing fillet (on fuselage)*
the high setting. 13. Fuse bottom
larger pieces of MonoKote film will overlap and 14. Fuse sides
capture these smaller pieces. This technique also 2. Say we are going to cover the Stab – cut a 15. Fuse top
bypasses the need to cut the MonoKote film in piece of MonoKote film about 2” larger all 16. Fuse color bands (if desired)
these areas after it has been applied. DO NOT, around. Strip off the backing and position the film. 17. Ends of ailerons and flaps
under any circumstances, attempt to cut the Tack the film down smack dab in the middle of 18. Bottom of ailerons and flaps
covering material after it has been applied to the Stab. 19. Top of ailerons & flaps
the fin and stab, except around the leading and 20. TE surfaces of wing (at ailerons and flaps)
trailing edges and the tip. Modelers who do this 3. Pull (as in stretch) the film toward the tip, 21. Bottom of fuse under wing
often cut through the covering and part-way into 22. Bottom of left wing panel
sealing it to the balsa from the center out to the 23. Bottom of right wing panel (overlap covering 1/4")
the balsa stab skin. This can weaken the stab to tip. Work out any wrinkles and air pockets as 24. Top of left wing panel (overlap covering 1/4")
the point where it may fail in flight! you proceed with a combination of circular and 25. Top of right wing panel (overlap covering 1/4")
back and forth motion.
* When covering concave surfaces, follow the iron
4. Do the same procedure working the opposite with a damp cloth, pressing the covering down.
direction from the center.

5. Pull and seal diagonally toward the four

corners, always starting from the center. The
trick is to shrink out any wrinkles before you seal
APPLY THE DECALS the film to the surface.
NOTE: The decal sheet does not give you
everything you need to completely trim your model, 6. Use a heat gun to heat and stretch the film
but it does provide all the intricate detailing and around curved surfaces like the stab and rudder
difficult items. tips, while pulling on the excess material. You
may need to pull hard to get out all of the
❏ 1. Study the plans and the photos on the box to wrinkles, so wear a glove if you need to. Follow-
decide where to place the decals. up the heat gun with your sealing iron to secure
the bond.
❏ 2. Thoroughly clean your airplane before
applying decals. The idea behind this approach (which can be
applied to any part of the model) is to pre-stretch
❏ 3. Trim the decals as close as practical. the MonoKote as it’s applied, and remove the air
Carefully apply the decals to the model. pockets that can expand later which cause the
sags and wrinkles.
NOTE: Certain decals (such as “No Push,” etc.)
are provided and may be used at your discretion.

- 47 -
 APPLY PANEL LINES TO THE MODEL PAINTING ❏ 3. Test fit the elevators to the stabilizer with all of
(OPTIONAL) the hinges and the wire joiner in place. Make sure
We recommend Top Flite LustreKote for the trailing edge of both elevators are even. Make
Panel lines are easy to apply and enhance the painting the cowl, intercooler exits, wing pylons and adjustments to the joiner wire if necessary.
model’s appearance. The pictures on the box may canopy frame. LustreKote is available in aerosol
be used for reference, however high quality 3-view spray cans, provides an exact high gloss color ❏ 4. Work a generous amount of 30-minute epoxy
drawings should be used for accurate placement of match for MonoKote film, and is fuelproof. into the wire joiner holes in the elevators with
lines if your model will be entered in competition. a toothpick.
See page 5 for useful reference books. Surface Preparation: Spray the plastic parts
(except the canopy) with a thin coat of primer. ❏ 5. Install the elevator hinges into the stab and,
Permanent panel lines may be applied by Add a second coat of primer to areas that need it. as you do this, insert the wire joiner into their
using thin strips of MonoKote film. The MonoKote Wet sand the primer with 400-grit sandpaper using respective holes. Wipe away any excess epoxy
film can be carefully cut on a smooth surface using a block where possible. Most of the primer should with an alcohol moistened paper towel. Glue the
a sharp #11 blade and straightedge or you could be sanded off. hinges in place using 4-6 drops of thin CA on both
use a Top Flite MonoKote SmartStripe ™ Cut the excess material from around the sides of each hinge. There should not be any
(TOPR2420) stripe cutting tool. Canopy, then sand off the rough edges with hinge gap.
320-grit sandpaper. Mask the clear areas with vinyl
electrician’s tape or Frisket film (available at art HINGE THE AILERONS AND RUDDER
supply stores).
❏ 6. Install the ailerons and rudder. Glue the
Apply the colors: Spray on several very light hinges in place using 4-6 drops of thin CA on both
applications of LustreKote, allowing each coat to sides of each hinge.
dry before respraying. If desired, LustreKote may
be polished with a quality car wax after it has fully ❏ 7. Flap hinge installation is covered in the Flap
dried to maximize the shine. Fitting section on page 39. Permanently install the
hinge points using 30-minute epoxy.

HINGING FINAL CONTROL

HARDWARE HOOKUP

1"

The SmartStripe is very simple to use. A length 1"

of MonoKote film is wound tightly onto a roller and
secured with tape. A #11 blade is mounted in a
3/4"
holder that is pressed into contact with the film
while the roller is rotated. Stripes of 1/64" are
possible with a little practice. The stripe is
positioned on the model, then adhered with a
sealing iron. ❏ 1. Cut 15 hinges (3/4" x
1") from the 2" x 9" CA hinge
❏ 1. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the 5/16" x 3/4"
If you prefer to draw panel lines, use a strip. Trim the corners at a
x 7/8" hardwood Flap Servo Mounting Blocks to
Staedtler Lumocolor 313 Permanent fine point 45 degree angle to make
the die-cut 1/16" ply Flap Servo Hatches. Install
pen. These pens are available from engineering or insertion easier.
the flap servos as shown in the photo and on the
drafting supply stores. We suggest using this pen plans. Fish the servo wires through to the opening
because it works well on MonoKote film and ❏ 2. Use a #11 blade in a hobby knife to cut 3/4" at the center of the wing, then connect them to a
mistakes can be removed with 70% rubbing wide matching hinge slots in all control surfaces, “Y” cord. Before permanently screwing the servo
alcohol. Your model may be cleaned with most except the flaps. Work the knife blade back and hatches in position, hookup your radio and set the
cleaners without affecting the lines too badly. forth to make sure the hinge slot is “open.” flap servo throws.

- 48 -
❏ 2. Hookup and adjust the flap linkages. Two
.074 x 4" Threaded End Rods and Nylon
Clevises are supplied to make the flap pushrods.
The flap pushrods are connected to the servos
using Nylon Faslinks. Refer to the Control
Surface Throws section for recommended travel.

❏ 3. Reinstall the aileron horns with #2 x 3/8

sheet metal screws. Hookup and adjust the
aileron linkages. ❏ 6. The retract air valve, air tank and servo
installation can be seen in the photos above and
below. We found that a micro servo worked well for
actuating the air valve. The tank fits in the built-in ❏ 8. Due to the variety of engine configurations
cradle in formers F-5 and F-6. It can be secured and each modeler’s preferred method, no throttle
with two #2 x 3/8" screws (not supplied) and a hookup materials are included with this kit. We
rubber band, or silicone glue. used a 2-56 Threaded Ball Link Connector
(#GPMQ3850) at the throttle and a Screw-Lock
Pushrod Connector (GPMQ3870) at the servo,
joined with a wire-in-tube .074 threaded one
end pushrod.

❏ 4. Hookup the aileron servo the same way you

did during wing assembly. Center the servo and
adjust the ailerons to line up with the wing tips
and flaps.
RETRACTS
❏ 1. Hook up the air lines to the retracts and route
them to the center of the wing. Hint: For more
❏ 5. The Rudder is hooked up using a Small scale retract speed, insert air restrictors in the four
Control Horn and a Nylon Clevis. Mark the lines that connect to the retracts. Position the
location of the horn and drill two 1/16” pilot holes restrictors at the retract end of the line.
about 1/4" deep. Thoroughly soak the holes with
CA. Put a drop of CA on the back of the horn and ❏ 7. Nylon Faslinks are recommended for internal ❏ 2. Install the retracts, hook them up following
screw the horn onto the rudder with two #2 x 3/8" elevator and rudder hookups. Refer to the photos the manufacturer’s instructions, then test
Sheet Metal Screws. and plans for proper servo and horn orientation. their operation.

- 49 -
 COCKPIT FINISHING
(Basic cockpit) OPTIONAL COCKPIT INTERIOR
❏ 1. Cut out the existing cockpit floor (if you
haven’t already done so) and test the unfinished
pieces of your Top Flite Cockpit Interior (Not
❏ 1. Sand the inside of the cockpit with 320-grit included – TOPQ8405) into the opening. Trim the
sandpaper. True up any uneven edges in the plastic and fuselage interior to obtain a good fit.
cockpit area.

❏ 2. Assemble and paint your pilot. ❏ 2. Paint and detail the Cockpit Interior following
the instructions that are included with the cockpit kit. ❏ 2. Use a hobby knife with a #11 blade to cut
along the lines. Test fit the intercooler air exit and
make adjustments to the hole if required. Glue the
❏ 3. Paint the interior of the cockpit. An alternative intercooler air exits in position with epoxy.
to paint is to cover the inside of the cockpit with a
fine-grit black sandpaper for a textured finish. If ❏ 3. Cut the Outboard Drop Tank Pylons along
you use the sandpaper technique, it is still ❏ 3. Install the cockpit interior with 30-minute the cut lines.
advisable to first paint the cockpit corners black or epoxy or silicone adhesive. Start with the floor,
medium green. followed by the back, then the two sides, and finally
the instrument panel. ❏ 4. Use the drawings on the wing plans to make
two sets of forward and aft Pylon Mount Plates
and Release Mechanism Mounting Plates from
❏ 4. Install the Instrument Panel Decal. It be left over 1/8" lite-ply.
applied directly to the existing panel, or for best
results, stick the decal to a scrap piece of 1/64" to ADD THE MOLDED SCALE DETAILS
1/16" plywood, trim it to shape, then glue it
in place. If you plan on installing the Intercooler Air Exits
and have made the modifications to the main side
stringer, all that remains to be done is remove a
section of side sheeting.
❏ 5. Glue the pilot in position. Hint: In addition to
gluing, you may also use a screw to fasten the pilot
in position from the underside of the cockpit floor.
Add any other cockpit details of your choosing at
this time.

❏ 5. Temporarily mount the front and aft pylon

mount plates to the wing with #4 x 1/2" button head
❏ 6. Glue the canopy to the model. We sheet metal screws (GPMQ3124). Place the pylon
recommend using RC-56 glue or 6-minute Epoxy on top of the plates and mark their location on
but if you have a favorite technique, use it. You ❏ 1. Draw the section of wood to be cut out directly the pylon.
should remove a small strip of MonoKote film (if on the fuselage side. The aft edge of the hole is
applicable) from under the canopy frame for good aligned with the aft edge of the cutout in
glue adhesion. Use masking tape to hold the the side stringer. The dimensions are given in ❏ 6. Remove the mount plates and glue them to
canopy in place while the glue cures. the photo. the pylon at the location you marked.

- 50 -
 INSTALL RECEIVER, SWITCH AND BATTERY
❏ 1. After connecting the servos and switch harness CONTROL SURFACE THROWS
to the receiver, wrap it and the battery with
1/4"-1/2" foam rubber to protect them from vibration. We recommend the following control surface throws:
❏ 2. Install the battery and receiver in the
NOTE: Throws are measured at the widest part
fuselage using your preferred method to secure
❏ 7. Glue the pylon mount plate to the pylon. Hint: of the elevators, rudder, and ailerons.
them in position.
Insert a pin through both sets of the dimples on the
pylon to set the pylon mount in the proper location. ❏ 3. If you didn’t make provisions for an antenna ELEVATOR: (High Rate) (Low Rate)
Test fit the release mechanism and cut a notch in tube during fuselage construction, insert the 11/16” up 7/16” up
the pylon to clear the manual release tab. receiver antenna into a “pushrod guide tube” (not 11/16” down 7/16” down
included) and tape it securely to the tube at the
❏ 8. Drill a 1/8" hole in the pylon above the center exit point. Slide the tube into the rear of the RUDDER: (High Rate) (Low Rate)
of the aft pylon mount plate so you can access the fuselage, then glue it in position with a few blobs of 1-3/8” right 1” right
#4 screw. Test fit the pylon to the wing. If the tanks silicone adhesive. 1-3/8” left 1” left
are to be releasable in flight and you have installed
a release cable, hook the system up and test its AILERONS: (High Rate) (Low Rate)
operation (guidelines are provided with the
FINAL HOOKUPS AND CHECKS
9/16” up 3/8” up
drop tanks). 9/16” down 3/8” down
❏ 1. Make sure the control surfaces move in the
proper direction as illustrated (see sketch below).
FLAPS: (Takeoff) (Landing)
7/8” down 2-1/8” down
4-CHANNEL RADIO SETUP
(STANDARD MODE 2)
TRIM MIXING
If your transmitter is programmable for Flap
to Elevator mixing we determined during our
ELEVATOR MOVES UP flight tests that attitude control was slightly
4-CHANNEL
TRANSMITTER smoother with 1/16” of down Elevator trim at full
Flaps.

RIGHT AILERON MOVES UP NOTE: If your radio does not have “dual rates,”
LEFT AILERON MOVES DOWN then set up the control surfaces to move at the
4-CHANNEL
TRANSMITTER
high rate throws.

The balance and surface throws for this

aircraft have been extensively tested. We are
RUDDER MOVES RIGHT
NOSE WHEEL TURNS RIGHT confident that they represent the settings at
which the P-47 flies best. Please set up your
❏ 9. Cut the Oil Cooler Shutters and the Super
4-CHANNEL
TRANSMITTER

aircraft to the specifications listed above. If,

Charger Exit along the cut lines. Test fit them to
after a few flights, you would like to adjust
the fuselage at their proper locations as indicated
the throws to suit your tastes, that is fine.
on the plans. Hint: For a perfect fit, hold a piece of CARBURETOR WIDE OPEN Most warbirds such as the P-47 have large
220-grit sandpaper on the fuselage and sand the 4-CHANNEL elevators and do not require much throw.
pieces to the correct outline. After the model is TRANSMITTER

Too much throw can create unexpected

covered and it’s time to glue them on, hold the part
maneuvers, so remember... “more is
on the fuselage, trace around it with a felt tip pen, ❏ 2. Adjust your pushrod hookups as necessary to
not better.”
remove the covering then glue it directly to the provide the proper control surface movements
exposed balsa wood. as shown.

- 51 -
 BALANCE YOUR MODEL ❏ 3. Lift the model at the balance point. If the tail GROUND CHECK THE MODEL
drops when you lift, the model is “tail heavy” and If you are not thoroughly familiar with the
NOTE: This section is VERY important and you must add weight* to the nose to balance. If the operation of R/C models, ask an experienced
must NOT be omitted! A model that is not nose drops, it is “nose heavy” and you must add modeler to check to see that you have the radio
properly balanced will be unstable and possibly weight* to the tail to balance. NOTE: Nose weight installed correctly and that all the control surfaces
unflyable. may be easily installed by using a Heavy Spinner do what they are supposed to. The engine
Hub or gluing lead weights into the engine operation also must be checked and the engine
compartment. Tail weight may be added by using “broken-in” on the ground by running the engine for
Great Planes (GPMQ4485) “stick-on” lead weights, at least two tanks of fuel. Follow the engine
and later, if the balance proves to be OK you can manufacturer’s recommendations for break-in.
open the fuse bottom and glue these permanently Check to make sure all screws remain tight, that
in position. the hinges are secure and that the prop is on tight.
*If possible, first attempt to balance the model
by changing the position of the receiver battery and RANGE CHECK YOUR RADIO
receiver. If you are unable to obtain balance by Wherever you do fly, you need to check the
doing so, then it will be necessary to add weight to operation of the radio before every time you fly.
the nose or tail to achieve the proper balance point. This means with the transmitter antenna collapsed
and the receiver and transmitter on, you should be
PREFLIGHT able to walk at least 100 feet away from the model
and still have control. Have someone help you.
CHARGE THE BATTERIES Have them stand by your model and, while you
work the controls, tell you what the various control
❏ 1. Accurately mark the balance point on the top Follow the battery charging procedures in your surfaces are doing.
of the wing on both sides of the fuselage. The radio instruction manual. You should always Repeat this test with the engine running at
balance point is shown on the plan (CG), and is charge your transmitter and receiver batteries the various speeds with an assistant holding the
located 3-5/8" back from the leading edge at the night before you go flying, and at other times as model. If the control surfaces are not always
location of rib #5 as shown in the sketch and on recommended by the radio manufacturer. acting correctly, do not fly! Find and correct the
the plans. Hint: Use the full-size wing plan to help problem first.
you accurately locate the proper balance point on FIND A SAFE PLACE TO FLY
the wing. This is the balance point at which your ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
model should balance for your first flights. Later, The best place to fly your R/C model is an
you may wish to experiment by shifting the balance AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics) chartered NOTE: Failure to follow these simple safety
up to 5/16" forward or back to change the flying club field. Ask your hobby shop dealer if there is precautions may result in severe injury to
characteristics. Moving the balance forward may such a club in your area and join. Club fields are yourself and others.
improve the smoothness and arrow-like tracking, set up for R/C flying and that makes your outing
but it may then require more speed for takeoff and safer and more enjoyable. The AMA also can tell Keep all engine fuel in a safe place, away from
make it more difficult to slow down for landing. you the name of a club in your area. We high heat, sparks or flames, as fuel is very
Moving the balance aft makes the model more recommend that you join AMA and a local club so flammable. Do not smoke near the engine or fuel;
agile with a lighter and snappier “feel” and often you can have a safe place to fly and have and remember that the engine exhaust gives off a
improves knife-edge capabilities. In any case, insurance to cover you in case of a flying accident. great deal of deadly carbon monoxide. Therefore
please start at the location we recommend and (The AMA address is listed on page 3 of this do not run the engine in a closed room
do not at any time balance your model outside instruction manual). or garage.
the recommended range. If a club and its flying site are not available, Get help from an experienced pilot when
you need to find a large, grassy area at least 6 learning to operate engines.
❏ 2. With the wing attached to the fuselage, all miles away from any other R/C radio operation like Use safety glasses when starting or running
parts of the model installed (ready to fly), an R/C boats and R/C cars and away from houses, engines.
empty fuel tank and the landing gear down buildings and streets. A schoolyard may look Do not run the engine in an area of loose
(extended) hold the model upside-down with the inviting but it is too close to people, power lines gravel or sand; as the propeller may throw such
stabilizer level. and possible radio interference. material in your face or eyes.

- 52 -
 Keep your face and body as well as all full scale aircraft. Where necessary an observer FLYING
spectators away from the plane of rotation of the shall be used to supervise flying to avoid having
propeller as you start and run the engine. models fly in the proximity of full scale aircraft.

Keep items such as these away from the prop:

loose clothing, shirt sleeves, ties, scarfs, long hair
or loose objects (pencils, screw drivers) that may 3. Where established, I will abide by the safety
fall out of shirt or jacket pockets into the prop. rules for the flying site I use, and I will not willfully
and deliberately fly my models in a careless,
Use a “chicken stick” device or electric starter; reckless and/or dangerous manner.
follow instructions supplied with the starter or stick.
Make certain the glow plug clip or connector is
secure so that it will not pop off or otherwise get
into the running propeller. 7. I will not fly my model unless it is identified with
my name and address or AMA number, on or in
Make all engine adjustments from behind the the model.
rotating propeller.
The Top Flite P-47 Thunderbolt is a great-
The engine gets hot! Do not touch it during or flying sport scale airplane that flies smoothly and
after operation. Make sure fuel lines are in good 9. I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any predictably, yet is highly maneuverable. Compared
condition so fuel will not leak onto a hot engine device that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile to other warbirds, its flight characteristics are very
causing a fire. of any kind). smooth and forgiving. It does not, however, have
the self-recovery characteristics of a primary R/C
To stop the engine, cut off the fuel supply by trainer; therefore, you must either have mastered
closing off the fuel line or follow the engine the basics of R/C flying or obtained the assistance
manufacturer’s recommendations. Do not use RADIO CONTROL of a competent R/C pilot to help you with your
hands, fingers or any body part to try to stop the first flights.
engine. Do not throw anything into the prop of a 1. I will have completed a successful radio
running engine. equipment ground check before the first flight of a TAKEOFF: If you have dual rates on your
new or repaired model. transmitter, set the switches to “high rate” for
takeoff, especially when taking off in a crosswind.
Although this model has excellent low speed
characteristics, you should always build up as
AMA SAFETY CODE 2. I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of much speed as your runway will permit before
spectators until I become a qualified flier, unless lifting off, to give you a safety margin in case of a
Read and abide by the following Academy of assisted by an experienced helper. “flame-out.” When you first advance the throttle
Model Aeronautics Official Safety Code: and the tail begins to lift, the plane will start to turn
left (a characteristic of all “tail draggers”). Be ready
GENERAL (Excerpt) for this, and correct by applying a slight amount of
3. I will perform my initial turn after takeoff away right rudder to steer it straight down the runway. Be
1. I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned from the pit or spectator areas, and I will not sure to allow the tail to come up. Don’t hold the tail
events, air shows, or model flying demonstrations thereafter fly over pit or spectator areas, unless on the ground with too much up elevator, as the
until it has been proven to be airworthy by having beyond my control. Thunderbolt will become airborne prematurely and
been previously successfully flight tested. will possibly stall. When the plane has sufficient
flying speed, lift off by smoothly applying up
2. I will not fly my model aircraft higher than elevator (don’t “jerk” it off to a steep climb!), and
approximately 400 feet within 3 miles of an airport 4. I will operate my model using only radio control climb out gradually. Do not use flaps for your initial
without notifying the airport operator. I will give frequencies currently allowed by the Federal takeoff. After you have the feel of the Thunderbolt,
right of way to, and avoid flying in the proximity of Communications Commission... takeoffs may be made with the flaps set at 50%.

- 53 -
 Full flaps make the Thunderbolt very steady in
CAUTION (THIS APPLIES TO ALL R/C the landing pattern, but carry a little extra power to
AIRPLANES): If, while flying, you notice any make up for the extra drag. The extra drag of the
unusual sounds, such as a low-pitched “buzz,” this flaps also allows you to make shorter, steeper
may be an indication of control surface “flutter.” approaches. Touch and go’s and go-arounds can
Because flutter can quickly destroy components of be accomplished with full flaps, but be ready to use
your airplane, any time you detect flutter you must a little more up elevator. It is preferred to have the
immediately cut the throttle and land the airplane! flaps up or at half setting for takeoffs and climb-
Check all servo grommets for deterioration (this outs because the plane will accelerate and climb
will indicate which surface fluttered), and make much better.
sure all pushrod linkages are slop-free. If it
fluttered once, it probably will flutter again under Have a ball! But always stay in control and
similar circumstances unless you can eliminate the fly in a safe manner.
slop or flexing in the linkages. Here are some (TOPA0110) Top Flite P-51D Mustang
things which can result in flutter: Excessive hinge GOOD LUCK AND GREAT FLYING! 65" Wingspan, 8 - 10 Lbs
gap; Not mounting control horns solidly; Sloppy fit
of clevis pin in horn; Elasticity present in flexible If you enjoyed building the Top Flite P-47
plastic pushrods; Side-play of pushrod in guide Thunderbolt, try one of these other outstanding
tube caused by tight bends; Sloppy fit of Z-bend in .60 size Gold Edition kits as your next project.
servo arm; Insufficient glue used when gluing in
the elevator joiner wire or aileron torque rod;
Excessive flexing of aileron, caused by using too
soft balsa aileron; Excessive “play” or “backlash” in
servo gears; and Insecure servo mounting.

FLYING: We recommend that you take it easy with

your Thunderbolt for the first several flights,
gradually “getting acquainted” with this realistic
warbird as your engine gets fully broken-in. Add
and practice one maneuver at a time, learning how
she behaves in each. For ultra-smooth flying and
normal maneuvers, we recommend using the “low
rate” settings as listed on page 51. “High rate” (TOPA0300) Top Flite Cessna 182 Skylane (TOPA0120) Top Flite P-40E Warhawk
elevator may be required for crisp snap rolls and 81" Wingspan, 10 - 12 Lbs. 64" Wingspan, 8 - 10.5 Lbs
spins. “High rate” rudder is best for knife edge.
Speed is the key to good knife-edge performance.

LANDING: When it’s time to land, fly a normal

landing pattern and approach. The Thunderbolt will
probably bleed off airspeed more rapidly than the
sport planes you are accustomed to. For this
reason, keep a few clicks of power on until you are
over the runway threshold. For your first landings,
plan to land slightly faster than stall speed and on
the main wheels, as this is the easiest way to land
your P-47. Later, with a little technique, you will find (TOPA0130) Top Flite AT-6 Texan (TOPA0100) Top Flite F4U Corsair
you can make slow, 3-point landings. 69" Wingspan, 7.5 - 10 Lbs. 62" Wingspan, 7 - 9.5 Lbs.

- 54 -
Remove shaded area for Century Jet Models retract units.

- 55 -
 THREE-VIEW DRAWING
Use this layout for trim scheme planning
only. Not suitable for scale documentation.