A1 To A2
A1 To A2
A1 To A2
Introduction
Due to the fact that A1-type lowers are basically non-existent on a commercial level, one of the options
*WORD OF CAUTION* (disclaimer): Before things get started it should be mentioned here that attempt
It should also noted that some of these modifications involve the use of welding. If done improperly, we
PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK.
The author of this thread and ARFCOM do not condone these modifications in any way, and assume no liability whatsoever for damages or injuries. Thes
The extent of the modifications to be performed will depend on which model or type of lower receiver is
All types or models should have the following modifications made to be considered cosmetically correc
1. Re-profile the rear of the receiver around the buffer tube/extension area.
This is basically a process of grinding off the reinforcement material that was added to strengthen the b
2. Re-profile the front of the receiver below the front takedown pin.
This is also basically a process of grinding off the reinforcement material that was added to strengthen
3. Remove the "Safe" and "Fire" markings from the left side of the receiver.
This is a process of filling in the markings with either a putty/filler, or by welding a "bead" over them. Th
Depending on which type or model of A1 lower is being made, the mag fence should be modified as fol
Notice the length and shape of the rear portion of what is now the pivot pin detent housing.
A HUGE THANKS to BUZGUN, ar15inmn, and the other AR15.com members who have pioneered this
Once you have modified your lower receiver you will obviously need to refinish it so it will match the fini
Retro Refinishing?
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A2 to A1 Parts Swap-Out
There are a number of parts/components that also should be switched out or modified when converting
For the Slabside Lower used with the Colt models 601 and 602
2. Selector Switch
The selector switch was also center-drilled; see the picture below for an example:
Like the original pins, the original selector switches are almost impossible to find, so some people will d
These are also almost impossible to find, so some people will modify (machine, file, etc) a current style
4. Bolt Catch/Release
The early bolt catch/release did not have the area that sticks out at the bottom; see the picture below fo
Like all other parts these are also almost impossible to find, so some people will modify (machine, file, e
For a "partial fence lower" used with the Colt models 603, 604, 605, 607, 608, and 609
The A1 partial fence lowers were transitional and could have been found with a mix of the original and c
For a "full fence lower" used with the Colt models 603, 609, 629, and later models
The A1 full fence lowers would have been found with the current style of components. The one exceptio
Once again, A HUGE THANKS to all of the other AR15.com members who have pioneered this proces
FAQ
B. Buy an off-brand (Eagle Arms, Sendra, PWA, etc) A1 rifle/lower which will have a full fence A1 lower
Pro - it will be an A1 lower
Con - it is not a Colt, quality may not be the best
Once again, you can occasionally find a lower for sale by itself, but you may also have to buy a comple
C. Buy an off-brand (DPMS, Rock River, Stag, etc.) A2 lower, and modify it to A1 specs.
Pro - it will be close to an A1 lower
Con - you have to be able to make the modifications and refinish it
See the information posted above for more info on the modification process.
4. Is a Colt SP1 slabside lower which was sold to the civilian market the same as the original Colt A1 "s
NO - Besides the obvious differences between an M16 and a semi-auto SP1, there are a number of dif
A. Components - the SP1 lowers were not made with the same external components that the original C
B. Front takedown pin/screw... the SP1 lowers were made with a larger diameter hole for the front taked
C. As mentioned above, the commercial SP1 was a semi-auto, and the military M16 was select-fire.
5. Can you mix & match the "milspec" A1 small-hole lowers and uppers with the civilian SP1 large hole
YES - there are a number of companies that make adapter pins/screws that will allow you to use a sma
mentioned here that attempting to modify an A2-type commercial lower receiver into an A1 lower can result in a
elding. If done improperly, welding on an aluminum forging or casting can result in a reduction of structural integrit
y whatsoever for damages or injuries. These examples are presented for the sake of discussion only.
as added to strengthen the buffer tube/extension area, and reprofiling the area to make it resemble the original A
hat was added to strengthen the takedown pin area, and reprofiling the area to make it resemble the original A1 a
lding a "bead" over them. Then the area is ground/sanded smooth. See the picture below for an example:
n detent housing.
bers who have pioneered this process and shared their experiences.
nish it so it will match the finish of your upper. For more information on that process you can check out:
to find, so some people will drill a small dimple to simulate the hole in a current style selector.
ular line pattern found on the current ones, see the picture below for an example:
chine, file, etc) a current style mag release. These items *MAY* become available in the near future, so stay tuned
le will modify (machine, file, etc) a current style bolt catch. There is also a "second generation" catch which had th
ater models
omponents. The one exception would have been the selector switch which would have lacked a position indicator
A1 lowers that can be purchased. These can obviously be a challenge to find and they can also demand a pretty h
M16 models
hnically correct."
to buy a complete rifle.
t to A1 specs.
ame as the original Colt A1 "slabside" M16 lower that was sold to the military?
P1, there are a number of differences between the two which include:
omponents that the original Colt M16 "slabside" lowers were. See the component swap-out/modification info abov
ameter hole for the front takedown pin. They also used a large diameter, double-headed screw versus a small dia
currently no one has offered to do this on a commercial level, however, stay tuned for further developments! Rem
dify an A2 lower and conduct a parts swap-out so that it more closely resembles an A1 lower.
o an A1 lower can result in a worthless and DANGEROUS lower if not done properly! The main difference betwee
reduction of structural integrity.
ake it resemble the original A1 area. This may include some welding or filling of some sort. Use the pictures below
e it resemble the original A1 area. See the picture below for an example:
eneration" catch which had the serrations, but also had the extended toe as on the later versions:
ear takedown pins with drilled holes and large head, selector switch with hole, and flat end bolt catch/release coul
ve lacked a position indicator marking on the right side. These selectors would have been smooth on the right-ha
ey can also demand a pretty high price. For more on the used/out of production A1 lowers, see below.
at end bolt catch/release could have been found on a small number of the very early models. The majority of them
been smooth on the right-hand end. See the picture below for an example:
owers, see below.
eaker areas of the earlier styles that were prone to breakage or failure reinforced. The modification process descri
models. The majority of them would have used the current style mag release with the circular line pattern.
e modification process described below will remove that added material and can greatly weaken the lower to a po
e circular line pattern.
atly weaken the lower to a point where it may fail under use. If you have any doubt about your mechanical skills a
bout your mechanical skills and abilities, it may be best to defer to a professional gunsmith for help.
nsmith for help.