Soptextilefinishing 170316114830
Soptextilefinishing 170316114830
Soptextilefinishing 170316114830
Presented …
Mohammad Mizanur Rahman.
Sr.Manager (Finishing-Textile)
Diploma in Textile Engineer (Itet), B Sc in Textile Engineer (Adust).BSS(P.Science), MBA (Marketing).
Cell: +8801712 254264, +8801911 309216,
Email: mizan5379@yahoo.com
Skype: mizan_mehben
SOP.
Adjustment.
1. Temperature.
2. Width set.
3. Overfeed.
4. Under feed.
5. Padder Pressure.
6. Pining Set.
7. Blower Speed.
8. Angle.
9. Mahlo Adjust.
10. Chemical Recipe.
11. M/c Speed.
SOP.
Adjustment.
1. Temperature.
2. Width set.
3. Blanket Pressure.
4. Overfeed.
5. Underfeed.
6. Tension.
7. Pining set.
8. Angle.
Precaution.
1. Shade variation
2. Over Compaction.
3. Many Bowing.
4. Shinning Mark.
SOP….
Adjustment.
1. Temperature.
2. Width set.
3. Blanket Pressure.
4. Overfeed.
5. Under feed.
6. Tension.
7. Pining set.
8. Angle.
1. Width.
2. GSM.
3. Angle.
4. Crease Mark.
5. Compaction.
6. Bowing.
SOP.
Adjustment.
1. Temperature.
2. Dia set.
3. Overfeed.
4. Blanket Pressure.
5. Tension.
6. Out Steam.
SOP.
Adjustment.
1. Temperature- 120 Deg.
2. Overfeed – Maximum
3. Padder Pressure- 2.
4. Blower speed.
5. Cherculation.
6. Width set.
7. M/c Speed.
SOP.
Adjustment.
1. Drop Needle must be followed.
2. If No Drop, Must be Untwist.
3. Padder Pressure(If Need)
4. M/c Speed.
5. Tension.
SOP.
Adjustment.
1. Dia set.
2. Chemical Recipe.
3. Full Ballooning.
4. Padder Pressure.
5. Over Feed.
6. M/c Speed.
Hydro- Extractor.
SOP.
Adjustment.
1. Timing.
2. Pressure.
3. Speed (If Control).
SOP.
Adjustment.
1. Pile.
2. Counter Pile.
3. Brush (Drum) speed.
4. Fabrics Tension.
5. M/c Speed.
SOP.
Adjustment.
1. Taken in Roller Tension.
2. Drum Tension.
3. Fabrics Return Roller Tension.
4. Plaiter Roller Tension.
5. Drum Speed.
6. M/c Speed.
Combing Machine.
SOP.
Adjustment.
1. Pile.
2. Counter Pile.
3. Drum speed.
4. M/c speed.
5. Fabrics Tension.
1. Effect of Combing.
2. Uneven combing.
SOP.
Adjustment.
1. Taker in Tension.
2. Lower Tension.
3. Blade Distance.
4. Table Distance.
5. Cutter RPM.
6. Plater Tension.
7. M/c Speed.
Tumble Dryer.
SOP.
Adjustment.
1. Temperature.
2. Steam.
3. Timing.
4. Cooling.
Check of Process.
1. GSM.
2. Width.
3. Shrinkage.
4. Shade.
5. Crease Mark.
SOP.
Adjustment.
1. Temperature.
2. Left Roll Pressure.
3. Right Roll Pressure.
4. Shoe Pressure.
5. Plaiter Ratio.
6. Conveyer Ratio.
7. Retard Roll Ratio.
8. Take out Roll Ratio.
9. Width control Ratio.
10. Guiding Roll Ratio.
11. M/c Speed.
Before After.
The station consists of a feed roll, a retard roll and a shoe section. The feed roll
and shoe are heated to aid the process of compaction. When the station is closed
the point of contact between these three component parts is known as the
compacting zone. The speed of the retard roll is variable in relation to the feed
roll with the amount of compaction imparted to the fabric being controlled by
the differential between these two rollers. Speeds and temperatures are fully
adjustable to allow the desired shrinkage results in the finished fabric.
The stitch counts of the fabric before compaction (left diagram above) are
measured by counting the number of stitches per inch. The fabric is driven into
the compaction zone by the feed roll. The fabric is transported to the point of the
compaction zone where the shoe tip, feed roll and retard roll come into contact,
the resistance to the fabric motion that is applied by the slower running speed of
the retard roll allows the feed roll to push the stitches closer together creating
more stitches per inch (right diagram above). The difference between the number
of stitches entering the compactor by comparison to the number of stitches
exiting the compactor. This difference expressed as a percentage is the amount
of compaction that has been applied to the fabric.
De-Water. Slitting.
Dryer. Stenter.
Tube Compact.
Sueding. Brushing.
Combing.
Shearing.
Stenter.
Open Compact.
Inspection.
Brush sueding for knit fabrics in tubular form, Sueding before dyeing (in tubular)
or after (in open width)
SOP,
Adjustment:-
1. Pile.
2. Counter Pile.
3. Brush (Drum) Speed.
4. Fabrics Tension.
5. M/c Speed.
Speed :
For single jersey cotton: 50-60m/min (burner position -02)
For 100% viscose: 65-75 m/min (burner position -02)
For Lycra single jersey: 90/95 m/min (burner position -01)
Flame :
(10-12) bar for single jersey.
(18-20) bar for single jersey.
(16-18) bar for viscose Lycra
Lycra Fabrics:
Solutions :
1. Fabric Tension Uneven/ Not proper.
2. Burner Temperation Up down. Not stable burner temp.
3. Use in more over feed or more enzyme / Re-dyeing.
4. Knitting m/c to m/c may be gsm up down. M/c run that time if
over feed adjust.
5. If not proper heat set / not shrinkage control.
6. If not proper heat set/ Burner temp not stable.
7. Problem in heat set/ when heat set that time if width adjusts in
m/c run.
8. Knitting m/c to m/c variation.
9. If not proper heat set / winch speed not proper.
10. If yarn count mixed.
pH (Check) - 4.5
Process - Dry Finish.
2. Resin Finish.
Stabitex ETR = 40 g/l
Condensol FAM = 12 g/l.
Acetic Acide = 0.25 g/l.
pH Check - 4.5
Process Dry Finish.
Temperature- 150
Speed -15
Overfeed- 30%
3. UV Protective Finish.
Diyopol KUV = 40 g/l.
Perapret FPEB = 20 g/l.
Temperature- 140.
Speed – 20.
Overfeed – 50%,
Note: Don’t use any kinds of Softner before UV Protective Finish. & Dry Finish.
4. Wick Finish.
Cefasoft SHB – 40 g/l.
Temperature- 150.
Speed – 18.
Overfeed- 50%.
5. Polyester Finish.
Hydroperm SRHA. TH – 20 g/l.
Acetic Acid – 0.25 g/l.
pH Check – 4.5
6. Polyester Finish.
Cefasoft SHD – 30 g/l.
Sanitized T25-25-10 g/l.
Acetic Acid - 0.5 g/l.
pH Check – 4.5
1. Single Jersey,
2. Double Jersey.
3. Rib,
4. Interlock,
5. Pointal Rib.
6. Micro Pollar Fleece.
7. Plating Fabrics,
8. Denim Look,
9. Interlock Lycra.
10. Plate Back Rib.
11. Plaited Interlock,
12. Cross Tuck,
13. Mesh Stripe,
14. Variative Rib,
15. Fleece,
16. Lacost,
17. Double Lacost,
18. Terry Fleece,
19. Mess Fabrics,
20. Opel Fabrics,
21. Diamond,
Stenter Machine:
A machine or apparatus for stretching or stentering fabrics. The purpose of the stenter machine is
to bringing the length and width to pre determine dimensions and also for heat setting and it is
used for applying finishing chemicals and also shade variation is adjusted. The main function of
the stenter is to stretch the fabric widthwise and to recover the uniform width.
After stentering we can increase the width of the fabric up to 1.5-2 inch.The speed of the
machine is about 7-150 m/min.3 meters fabric can run in each chamber.temperature is
adjusted that according to the fabric as for,
1. PC 210 c
2. Cotton 110-130 c
1. GSM control of the knitted fabric. For high GSM, overfeed is increased and fabric
width is decreased. For low GSM, overfeed is decreased and fabric width is increased.
2. Control shrinkage.
3. Twisting control.
4. Increase smoothness of fabric
5. Heat setting is done of fabric etc.
1. Shade Check: Shade of the compacting fabric is checked in the delivery side of
the machine. The operator collects the fabric and compare the shade of the fabric
with the buyer’s approved swatch.
2. Width Check: Operator measures the width of the fabric with the measuring tape
and compares it with the buyer’s requirement.
3. Weight Check: Weight of the fabric is determined by GSM check. Operator
checks the GSM of the fabric by GSM cutter and electric balance.
4. Edge Line Checking: Two edges of the fabric is check in delivery side. If any fix
line is identified, which normally occurs from the expander it should be
connected.
5. Design and Slanting: Operator checks design and slanting of the fabric in the
delivery side of the machine.
6. Fabric Faults: Various types of fabric quality are measured in the delivery side
of the fabric.
1. Tubular compactor
2. Open compactor .
Tubular Compactor:
Tubular compactor is used after hydro-extractor, de-watering and dryer. By the
compactor machine, compacting is done for control the shrinkage of the fabric. Here,
different types of off line quality of the fabric are measured.
1. Width control through a stepless adjustable special tubular fabric spreader driven by
variable speed motor for distortion-free fabric guidance.
2. Steamping with a condensate-free steam box which is easily operated and completely
made from stainless stell.
4. Calendaring while passing between the felt belt and the heated shrinking rollers.
5. Precision plaiting with automatic platform level adjustment controlled by folded fabric
The fabric is fed through the guiding system and stretcher which then takes the fabric
through the steam box onto the felt of the twin compacting units.
At the fabric delivery, the machine is equipped with a precision plaiting device with its
platform. The height of the platform is controlled automatically and is adjustable
according to the plaited fabric height.
An optical fabric density measuring sensor can provide the means to automatically
control the compaction of a tubular compactor to achieve the desired course count. An
automatic compaction control system based on density measurement and control will:
The entry section of Pin Frame is provided with edge spreaders IR In-Feed device, an
S.S. fabricated steaming unit for uniform moistening of the fabric. The Steaming
Device has stainless steel sliding shutters that allow steam to flow only as per the
width of the fabric.
A low contact Glueing and Drying unit is provided with a stainless steel trough. Four
selvedge drying units with infra-Red emitters are placed on either side of the
machine. The delivery side section consists of edge dryer, Selvedge trimmer and a
suction device, Exit roller, Width Adjustment device and the drive to the chain are
housed in a exit box.
The compacting unit consists of 2 felt compacting units, each of them consisting of a
Nomex felt approx. 20 mm thick, a steam heated chrome-plated center roller of dia.
400 mm, a rubber covered roller driven by variable frequency drive, a compacting
pressure roller, a felt tensioning roller and a felt centering roller. Each unit is provided
with a special anti-fiction sheet type shoe controlled by an electrical actuator to
control the compressive shrinkage. A fabric cooling roller is provided after second
felt to cool the fabric by means of chilled water circulation. Fabric Tension through
the machine is controlled with the help of sensitive load cells and variable frequency
drive with PLC and touch screen.
Slitter Machine:
Slitter machine is used for tubular knit fabric to make it in open form. In open form fabric
finishing line; slitter machine is used after hydro-extractor, de-watering and drying
machine.
Slitting is a process that is applied for cutting the tubular fabric through the intended
break Wales line on lengthwise direction prior to stenter processing. During slitting, it is
required to be aware about the cutting line otherwise, fabric faults can be occurred
there.
Objectives of Slitting:
Following objectives are achieved by the slitting machine.
1. Rotary Blade: Rotary blade is used for cutting the fabric through break Wales
line.
2. Ring: Ring is use to help the cutting process.
3. Guide Roller: After slitting, plaiting of the fabric is done. Guide roller guides the
fabric to plaiting.
4. Plaiting: Open fabric is make plait by plaiting.
5. Sensor: Sensor is used for identify the specific Wales line. It makes sense for
cutting through break Wales’s line.
1. Cutting Line Check: Fabric cutting line is checked by the operator of the slitting
machine. Operator checks that the rotary blade cut fabric through break Wales’s line or
not.
2. Bow and Slant check: Bow and slant is checked in the delivery side of the machine by
the operator.
3. Fabric Faults: Various fabric faults also checked in slitting process.
Operational Parameter:
1. Set the padder pressure as required (3-7bar)
2. Set the speed as much as possible (30-80m/min).
There are various types of defects which occur in the Knitted fabrics of all types
caused by a variety of reasons. The same type of defects may occur in the fabric
due to a variety of different causes e.g. Drop Stitches, Spirality etc.
Category of Defects:
Yarn Related Defects:
Almost all the defects appearing in the horizontal direction in the knitted fabric are yarn
related. These defects are mainly;
1. Barriness
2. Thick & Thin lines
3. Dark or Light horizontal lines (due to the difference in dye pick up)
4. Imperfections
5. Contaminations
6. Snarling
7. Spirality
1. Drop Stitches
2. Yarn Streaks
3. Barriness
4. Fabric press off
5. Broken Ends
6. Spirality
1. Dyeing patches
2. Softener Marks
3. Shade variation
4. Tonal variation
5. Color fading (Poor Color Fastness)
6. Dull shade
7. Crease or rope Marks
1. High Shrinkage
2. Skewing
3. Spirality
4. Surface Hairiness & Pilling
5. Tonal variation
6. Snagging (Sharp points in the dyeing machine or trolley etc)
7. Fold Marks
8. Wet Squeezer Marks
9. GSM variation
10. Fabric Width variation
11. Curling of S.J. Fabrics
Hole in fabric
Major Causes:
Remedies:
1. Ensure uniform yarn tension on all the feeders with a Tension Meter.
2. Rate of yarn feed should be strictly regulated as per the required Stitch Length.
3. The fabric tube should be just like a fully inflated balloon, not too tight or too
slack.
4. The yarn being used should have no imperfections like; Slubs, Neps & big knots
etc
5. The gap between the Cylinder & the Dial should be correctly adjusted as per the
knitted loop size.
Barriness:
Definition:
Barriness defect appears in the Knitted fabric in the form of horizontal stripes of uniform
or variable width.
Causes:
Remedies:
Streakiness :
Definition:
Streaks in the Knitted fabrics appear as; irregularly spaced & sized, thin horizontal lines.
Causes:
Remedies:
Imperfections:
Definition:
Imperfections appear on the fabric surface in the form of unevenly placed or randomly
appearing Knots, Slubs & Neps, Thick & Thin places in the yarn.
Causes:
• Big Knots, Slubs & Neps in the yarn, Thick & Thin yarn.
Remedies:
• Specify the quality parameters of the yarns to be used for production to the yarn
supplier.
Snarls :
Definition:
Snarls appear on the fabric surface in the form of big loops of yarn getting twisted due to
the high twist in the yarn.
Causes:
Remedies:
Contaminations:
Definition:
Contaminations appear in the form of foreign matter such as; dyed fibers, husk, dead
fibers etc. in the staple spun yarn or embedded in the knitted fabric structure.
Causes:
• Presence of dead fibers & other foreign materials, such as; dyed fibers, husk &
synthetic fibers etc.
• Dyed & other types of fibers flying from the adjacent Knitting machines cling to
the yarn being used for knitting & get embedded in the Grey Fabric.
Remedies:
• Use rich fiber mixing for the yarns to be used for Knitting in order to have less
dead fibers appearing in the fabric.
• Rigid control measures in the Blow Room to prevent the mixing of foreign
matters in the Cotton mixing.
• Segregate the Spinning & Knitting Machines, with Plastic Curtains or Mosquito
Nets, to prevent the fibers flying from the neighboring machines, from getting
embedded in the yarn / fabric.
Spirality:
Definition:
Spirality appears in the form of a twisted garment after washing. The seams on both the
sides of the garment displace from their position & appear on the front & back of the
garment.
Causes:
Remedies:
• Use the Hosiery yarns of the recommended TPM level for Knitting.
• Ensure uniform rate of feed of the dyed fabric on both the edges while feeding the
fabric to the Calender, Compactor or Stenter machines.
Needle Lines:
Definition:
Needle lines are prominent vertical lines along the length of the fabric which are easily
visible in the grey as well as finished fabric.
Causes:
Remedies:
• Inspect the grey fabric on the knitting machine for any Needle lines.
• Check the Needle filling sequence in the Cylinder / Dial grooves (tricks).
Horizontal lines:
Causes:
• Fault in bobbin
• Irregular tension on cams.
Remedies:
Laddering effects
Causes:
Remedies:
• Ensure uniform & the right Yarn tension on all the feeders.
• Keep the recommended gap between the Yarn Feeders & the Needles.
• Periodically change the complete set of needles.
• Remove fly or blockage from groove.
• Replace defective needle.
Sinker Lines:
Definitions:
Sinker lines are prominent or feeble vertical lines appearing parallel to the Wales along
the length of the knitted fabric tube.
Causes:
Remedies:
• Replace all the worn out or bent sinkers causing Sinker lines in the fabric.
• Sinker lines are very fine & feeble vertical lines appearing in the fabric.
• Remove the fibers clogging the Sinker tricks (Groove
Oil Lines:
Definitions:
Oil lines are prominent vertical lines which appear along the length of the knitted fabric
tube. The lines become permanent if the needle oil used is not washable & gets baked due
to the heat during the finishing of the fabric.
Causes:
• Fibers & fluff accumulated in the needle tricks which remain soaked with oil.
• Excessive oiling of the needle beds.
Remedies:
• Fibers accumulated in the needle tricks cause the oil to seep into the Fabric.
• Some lubricating oils are not washable & can not be removed during Scouring.
• Remove all the Needles & the Sinkers of the machine periodically.
• Clean the grooves of the Cylinder & Dial of the machine thoroughly with petrol.
• Blow the grooves of the Cylinder Dial & Sinker ring with dry air after cleaning.
Broken Ends :
Definition:
Broken ends appear as equidistant prominent horizontal lines along the width of the
fabric tube when a yarn breaks or is exhausted.
Causes:
Remedies:
Press off takes place, when the yarn feeding to both the short butt & long butt needles
suddenly stops due to the yarn breakage.
At times complete fabric tube can fall off the needles if the needle detectors are not
functioning or are not properly set.
Causes:
Remedies:
• Needle detectors, should be set precisely to detect the closed needles & prevent
the fabric tube from completely pressing off.
• Proper yarn tension should be maintained on all the feeders.
Pilling appears as, small fiber balls formed on the fabric surface, due to the entanglement
of loose surface fibers.
Factors such as, the fiber staple length, low T.P.M. & fabric construction (with long yarn
floats) etc. also contribute to pilling.
Causes:
Remedies:
• Use anti pilling chemical treatments for the fabrics prone to pilling.
Snagging:
Definition:
Snagging appears on the knitted fabric surface as a pulled up yarn float showing up in the
form of a large loop.
Causes:
• Caused by the pulling or the plucking of yarn from the, fabric surface, by sharp
objects.
Remedies:
• Inspect & rectify the fabric contact points on all the machines (Soft Flow Dyeing,
Tumble Dryer & Centrifuge etc), on which snagging is taking place.
Bowing
Definition:
Bowing appears as rows of courses or yarn dyed stripes forming a bow shape along the
fabric width.
Causes:
• Uneven distribution of tensions across the fabric width while dyeing or finishing
the fabric.
Remedies:
Dyeing Patches:
Definition:
Dyeing patches appear, as random irregular patches on the surface of dyed fabrics.
Causes:
• Inadequate Scouring of the grey fabric is one of the primary causes of the dyeing
patches.
• Improper leveling agent is also one of the causes of dyeing patches.
• Correct pH value not maintained.
• Dyeing machine stoppage due to power failure or the fabric entanglement in the
dyeing machine are a major cause of the dyeing patches.
Remedies:
• Scour the grey fabric thoroughly to remove all the impurities from the fabric
before dyeing.
• Use appropriate leveling agents to prevent patchy dyeing.
• Maintain the correct pH value during the course of dyeing.
• Use a power back up (Inverter) for the dyeing operation to be completed
uninterrupted.
Softener Marks:
Definition:
Softener marks appear as distinct irregular patches in the dried fabric after the application
of softener.
Causes:
Remedies:
• Scour the grey fabric thoroughly to remove all the impurities from the fabric
before dyeing.
• Ensure that the softener is uniformly dissolved in the water & doesn’t remain un-
dissolved as lumps or suspension.
• Use the right softener & the correct procedure for the application.
• Maintain the correct pH value of the softener before application.
Stains :
Definition:
Stains appear as spots or patches of grease oil or dyes of different color, in a neat & clean
finished fabric surface.
Causes:
Remedies:
• Wash & clean the dyeing machine thoroughly after dyeing every dye lot.
• Follow the dyeing cycle of Light- Medium- Dark shades & then the reverse the
cycle while dyeing the fabric.
• All the lubricated moving machine parts should be protected with safety guards.
• Make sure that the fabric is neatly packed in or covered with Polythene sheets
while transporting or in storage.
• Handle the fabric carefully with clean hands & do not let anyone step onto the
stored fabric.
Causes:
• Dyeing recipe i.e. the poor fixing of the dyes is a major cause of color fading.
• Using the wrong combination of colors in a secondary or tertiary shade.
• Use of strong detergents & the quality of water are also the common causes for
color fading.
• Prolonged exposure to strong light will also cause the colors to fade.
• High level of acidity or alkalinity in the perspiration of individuals also causes
color fading.
Remedies:
• Use the correct dyeing recipe i.e. the appropriate leveling, fixing agents & the
correct combination of dyes.
• Follow the wash care instructions rigidly.
• Use mild detergents & soft water for washing the garments.
• Don’t soak the garments for more than 10- 15 minutes in the detergent prior to
washing
• Turn the wet garments inside out while drying.
• Dry in shade & not in direct sunlight.
• Protect the garments against prolonged direct exposure to strong lights (show
rooms or exhibitions etc.).
Shade Variation:
(Roll to roll & within the same roll)
Definition:
Sometimes there appears to be a difference in the depth of shade between the roll
to roll & from place to place in the same roll. The defect will show up clearly in
Causes:
• Shade variation can be as a result of mixing of the, fabrics of two different lots.
• Shade variation is also caused, by the variation in the process parameters i.e.
Time, Temperature & Speed etc. from one fabric roll, to the other.
• Shade variation can appear to be, in fabrics with GSM variation, caused due to the
uneven stretching, unequal fabric overfeed % etc.
Remedies:
• Ensure that the grey fabric used for one shade is knitted from the same lot of the
yarn.
• Ensure that the same process parameters (Width, Overfeed, Temperature &
Machine Speed etc.) are used for each roll of a dye lot.
Tonal Variation:
Definition:
Roll to roll or within the same roll difference in the color perception i.e. Greenish, Bluish,
Reddish or Yellowish etc. is attributed as tonal variation in the shade.
Causes:
Remedies:
Causes:
• These marks are caused due to the excessive pressure, of the squeezer rolls of the
Padding Mangle, on the wet fabric, while rinsing.
Remedies:
• Use the Padding mangle only for the application of the softener.
• Use a hydro extractor (Centrifuge) for the extraction to avoid the squeezer roll
marks.
• Soon after extraction open the fabric manually to prevent crease marks in the
damp fabric.
Folding Marks:
Definition:
Fold marks appear as distinct pressure marks along the length of the fabric.
Causes:
• High pressure of the fabric Take Down rollers of the Knitting machine on the grey
fabric is one of the main causes.
• Too much pressure of the feeding rolls of the Calander & Compactor is the
primary cause of the folding marks in the knitted fabric.
Remedies:
• Adjust the gap between the two rolls as per the thickness of the fabric sheet .
• Gap between the two Calander rolls should be just enough to let the rolls remove
the wrinkles in the fabric but put no pressure on the fabric sheet especially in the
case of Pique & structured fabrics.
Crease Marks:
Definition:
Crease marks appear in the knitted fabric, as dark haphazard broken or continuous lines.
Causes:
• Damp fabric moving at high speed in twisted form, in the Hydro extractor
(Centrifuge)
Remedies:
• Use anti Crease, during the Scouring & the Dyeing process .
• The use of anti Crease, swells the Cellulose & prevents the formation of Crease
mark.
• Spread the fabric in loose & open form & not in the rope form, in the Hydro
Extractor.
High Shrinkage:
Definition:
The original intended measurements of the Garment go, haywire, during storage or after
the very first wash.
Causes:
• High Stresses & strains exerted on the fabric, during Knitting, Dyeing &
Processing & the fabric not being allowed to relax properly, thereafter.
• High shrinkage is primarily due to the fabric being subject to high tension, during
the Knitting, Dyeing & the Finishing processes
Remedies:
• Keep the Grey Fabric in loose plated form, immediately after the roll is cut.
• Store the finished fabric also in the plated form & not in the roll form.
• Allow the fabric to relax properly, before it is cut.
• Give maximum overfeed to the fabric, during the processing, on the Stenter,
Compactor & the Calandering machines.
GSM Variation:
Definition:
The fabric will appear to have a visible variation in the density, from roll to roll or within
the same roll of, the same dye lot.
Causes:
• Roll to roll variation in the, process parameters, of the fabric, like; Overfeed &
Width wise stretching of the dyed fabric, on the Stenter, Calender & Compactor
machines.
• Roll to roll variation in the fabric stitch length.
Remedies:
• Make sure that all the fabric rolls in a lot, are processed under the same process
parameters.
• The Knitting Machine settings, like; the Quality Pulley diameter etc. should never
be disturbed.
Causes:
• Grey fabric of the same lot, knitted on different makes of Knitting Machines,
having varying number of Needles in the Cylinder.
• Roll to roll difference, in the Dyed Fabric stretched width, while feeding the
fabric on the Stenter, Calander & Compactor.
Remedies:
• The whole lot of the grey fabric should be knitted on the same make of knitting
machines.
• For the same gauge & diameter of the knitting machines, there can be a difference
of as high as 40 needles, from one makes to the other make of the machine.
• This difference, in the number of needles, causes a difference of upto 2”-3” in the
finished width of the fabric
• The stretched width of the grey fabric should remain constant, during finishing on
the stenter.
Measurement Problems:
Definition:
The measurements of the garments totally change after, a few hours of relaxation & after
the first wash. The arm lengths or the front & back lengths of the garments may vary, due
to the mix up of the parts.
Causes:
• Shrinkage caused due to the inadequate relaxation of the knitted fabrics, before
cutting.
• Mixing of the garment parts cut from, different layers or different rolls of the
knitted fabric.
Remedies:
• Use a trolley, for laying the fabric on the table, to facilitate a tension free, laying.
• Let the fabric relax for a few hours, before cutting, especially the Lycra fabrics.
• Ensure the numbering of the different layers of the fabric, to prevent the mix up of
the components.
Machine for outerwear and under wear may vary from 12 inch to 60 inch in diameter
according to manufactures requirement. This machine can be used either as fabric or for
making garments completely with fancy stitch. Latch needles are commonly employed
in all modern circular machines because of their simple action and also their ability to
process more types of yarns.
Photo: Creel.
VDQ Pulley: It is a very important part of the machine. It controls the quality of
the product. Altering the position of the tension pulley changes the G.S.M. of the fabric.
If pulley moves towards the positive directive then the G.S.M. is decrease. And in the
reverse direction G.S.M will increase.
Photo: Brush.
MPF Wheel: Its control the speed of the MPF. Pulley belt gives motion to the
wheel.
Photo: MPF.
Feeder Ring: It is a ring. Where all feeders are pleased together.
Photo: Feeder.
Photo: Sinker.
Sinker Ring: Sinker ring is a ring. Where all sinkers are pleased together.
Photo: Cam.
Lycra Attachment Device: Lycra is placed hear. And feeding to the
machine.
Lycra Stop Motion: It is one kind of stop motion to stop the machine when
the Lycra is break.
Photo: Cylinder.
Cylinder Balancer: It helps the cylinder to set in a proper alignment.
Photo: Expander.
Needle Detector: This part detect the any type of faults of needles.
For Example:
Problem: Calculate the production for a circular knitting machine whith the given data
Feeder=84
Diameter=30 inch
Gauge=24/inch
Cylinder r.p.m=18
Yarn count=30Ne
Efficiency=90%
Stitch length=2 mm
Solution:
Length of yarn= (3.14×30× 24× 2 ×84× 18× 60 ×24 ×90)/(1000 ×100)
=8860310.32 meter
=8860.31 km
Now, 20Ne=Ne×tex=590.6
So,tex=590.6/20
=29.58
Again,
1 km yarn weight =29.53 gm
8860.31 km yarn weight=(29.53× 8860.31)
=261.64 kg
OBJECTS:
1.To have the idea about an interlock m/c.
2.To know about its working principles.
Introduction:
Interlock structure is a double faced Interlock structure which consists of two 1×1
Interlock structures. These two 1×1 Interlock structures are joined by interlocking sinker
loops and thus produce interlock structure. Interlock structure is produce by special
cylinder dial circular machines. Double system V-bed flat knitting machine also used to
produce interlock structure.
SPECIFICATIONS:
1. Machine name: Interlock Circular Knitting Machine.
2. Company:- Precision FUKUHARA Works Limited.
3. Origin of the machine:- Japan
4. Model no. :- V 8ME 42
5. Dia of the machine:- 30”.
6. Gauge of the machine:- 22
7. No of Feeder:- 84
8. Serial no:- 1352761.
9. Creel Capacity: 84.
10. Feeding: Positive.
MACHINE PARTS:
1.Yarn career
2.Break stop motion
3.Yarn guides
4.Dial
5.Cylinder
6.Dial cams
7.Cylinder cams
8.Dial needles
9.Cylinder needles
10.Oiling and air following devices
11.Sensors
12.Take up rollers
13.Batch rollers
14.Motor
15.Belts 16.Clutches
17.Pulleys and gears.
Machine description:
The machine has two sets of needles on two different beds, one set on cylinder one in the dial
bed. These two sets of needles must be exactly opposite to each other.
The machine has two separate cam system in each bed needles of different length called short
needles and long needles. Each cam system controls half of the needles in alternate sequences.
One cam system controls knitting at one feeder and other ca, system controls at the next feeders.
T ale down mechanism is the same as the other Interlock and plain machines mechanism.
Machine parts:
1. Yarn career
2. Break stop motion
3. Yarn guides
4. Dial
5. Cylinder
6. Dial cams
7. Cylinder cams
8. Dial needles
9. Cylinder needles
10. Oiling and air following devices
11. Sensors
12. Take up rollers
13. Batch rollers
14. Motor
15. Belts
16. Pulleys and gears Clutches
Knitting action:
Conclusion:
The circular Interlock machine is a very commonly used machine in country to make Interlock
knitted fabric. So this experiment has significance in our study life. In this experiment we sketch
the yarn path diagram of the machine, show the knitting action, cam system. We point out the
various specification of the machine. So the experiment helps us to know more.
Introduction
The structure in which the face and back loop occurs along to the coarse successively but all the
loops of a wale is same is called rib structure. The circular knitting machine which is used to
produce the rib structures is known as rib machine.
Machine specification:
1. Machine model → cmoan
2. Manufacturer → Paolo Orizio
3. Made in → Italy
4. No of feeders’ → 40
5. Cylinder diameter →20”
6. Needle gauge → 18 / inch
Machine parts:
1. Yarn career
2. Break stop motion
3. Yarn guides
4. Dial
5. Cylinder
6. Dial cams
7. Cylinder cams
8. Dial needles
9. Cylinder needles
10. Oiling and air following devices
11. Sensors
12. Take up rollers
13. Batch rollers
14. Motor
15. Belts
16. Pulleys and gears
17. Clutches
The dial needles get its motion from its butt which is placed on the cam truck. This cam
truck is formed by different cam placed on a cam plate.
During the rotation of the cylinder, cylinder needles moves vertically and dial needles
moves horizontally. Cylinder needles also get its motion from it. There is a cloth tale up
roller which also rotates with unison to dial and cylinder and fabric is wound on it.
Knitting action:
The knitting action of a circular rib machine is shown in Fig:
1. Clearing: The cylinder and dial needles move out to clear the plain and rib loops formed in the previous
cycle.
2. Yarn feeding: The needles are withdrawn into their tricks so that the old loops are covered by the open
latches and the new yarn is fed into the open hooks.
3. Knocking Over: The needles are withdrawn into their tricks so that the old loops are cast off and new
loops are drawn through them.