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Lay-Up Fabric

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LO 2.

Lay-up fabric
Lay-up fabric
This learning guide is developed to provide you the necessary information regarding the following
learning outcome and content coverage:-

Checking and validating drawing against job requirements.

 Lay-up instructions are interpreted.


 Fabric is collected and checked.
 Fabric width and quality are checked with lay-up instructions.
 Fabric is laid up and fabric tension adjusted to match fabric performance.
 Fabric is checked for faults and required action taken to cut out faults or other appropriate
techniques.

LO2 lay –up fabric


Lay is a stack of fabric plies that have been prepared for cutting.
Lay planning is the basis of managing cutting room labor and table space Manner in which the
patterns are laid out on the fabric for cutting process is called as “Pattern Layout

 DIFFERENT TYPES OF LAYS

The following are the different types of lays:


o Single pick lay Multiple lay
o Double pick lay Stepped lay
o Deficient lay

SINGLE PICK LAY


When each and every component are picked up individually from the cut blocks. Single
picks are carried out when the fabrics have right and wrong side and when left and right
side components are different.

Fig 1 SINGLE PICK LAY:


DOUBLEPICK LAY:
This system is normally followed in mass manufacturing. In this system, the fabric is laid in
folded condition and the cut components are picked up in double. In case of shirt, of checked
design, we are using fold for laying and form the cut pieces, two pieces each of front, back
and yoke are picked up in pairs. Since the fabric is laid in folded condition, there will be no
disturbance in the left or right side, when pick up.
DEFICIENT LAY
In order to make the optimum use of end pieces of the fabric in mass cutting lays are
prepared with a few components deficient. For instance, in case of shirt the main lay is
prepared with, leaving few components such as cuff, collar, etc. Such a lay set with deficient
components is called as deficient lays. A separate lay is made for the deficient parts using
end pieces or lay balances of the fabric. Normally the inside parts of the garment are cut
using deficient lay.
MULTIPLE LAY
Lays are called as multiple lays when the same are set for more than one unit. In order to
effect economy, lays of two garments or three garments are set to effect optimum utilization.
When we increase the unit of garments per lay length the fabric consumption per garments is
gradually reduced.
SPREADING:
 is the processes of superimposing lengths of fabric on a spreading table cutting table or
specially designed surface in preparation for the cutting process
 A spread or lay-up is the total amount of fabric prepared for a single marker.
The process of rolling out layer after layer of cloth, smoothly without wrinkles, in such a
manner that the selvedge on one side of the cloth is straight, and parallel to that edge of the
cutting table
Method of Spreading
The method of spreading which the industry uses can be divided into:-
• Spreading by hand
• Spreading using a travelling machine
• Spreading by hand

Under this process fabric is drawn from cloth roll and carried along the table where the end is
secured by weights or a clamp. The operators work back from the end, aligning the edges and
ensuring that there is no tension and that there were no wrinkles. The ply is normally cut with
hand shears or with a powered circular knife mounted on a frame. Checks, crosswise stripes and
other regular repeating patterns is spreader by hand.

• Spreading using a Travelling Machine

Spreading machines carry the pieces of fabric from end to end of the spread. Their basic
elements consist of a frame or carriage, wheels travelling in guide rails at the edge of the table, a
fabric support, and the guide collars to aid the correct unrolling of the fabric. In the simpler
versions, the operator clamps the tree end of fabric in line with the end of the spread, pushes the
spreader to the other end, cuts of the ply in line with that end, clamps the beginning the next ply,
pushes the spreader to the other end and so on. More advanced spreading machines may include
a motor to drive the carriage and other ultra modern facilities to minimize the operator function.
 Lay-up instruction

The objective of spreading is to place the number of plies of fabric that the production planning
process has dictated, to the length of the marker plan, in the colours required, correctly aligned as
to length and width and without tension. Most of the industry is able to cut garments in bulk and
by doing so achieves the saving in fabric that are available through the use of multi garment
marker plans and the saving in cutting time per garment that result from cutting many plies at the
same time. This procedure saves time, cost of cutting and the cost of materials.
The following points should be exercised before laying out the fabric:

 Lay-up instructions should be interpreted.

 Fabric is collected and checked.

 Fabric width and quality are checked with lay-up instructions.

 Fabric is laid up and fabric tension adjusted to match fabric performance.

2.2 Collect and check fabric according to the specifications

The garments production process is affected by the fabric design very much. This is because that
the design of the fabric may be uni-directional or bi-directional. During laying the fabric on the
cutting table all the subsequent layers should be laid on the same manner according to the
direction of design. Also the type of pattern layout should be selected according to the design.
The following are the different types of fabric used in the mass production
 PLIAN FABRIC:
This type of fabrics contains solid or only one color i.e., white or other color, and there is
not any design in this fabric.
 WOVEN DESIGN FABRIC:
Generally woven design fabrics may be classified in to three types.
 Stripe
 Checks and
 Other design
Fabric is checked for faults and required action taken to cut out faults or other appropriate
techniques

self-check 2 Written test


CHOSE THE BEST ANSWER

1. _____ is a stack of fabric plies that have been prepared for cutting.
A. Cutting B. Bundling
B. Layup C. Ticketing
2. ---------Is a type of fabrics contains solid or only one color i.e., white or other color, and
there is not any design.
A. Woven design fabric C. One side fabric
B. Plain fabric D. One way fabric
3. Which one of the following si a types of Lays
A. Single pick lay D. Multiple lay
B. Double pick lay E. Stepped lay
C. Deficient Lay F. All

4. The fabric type that contains right side and wrong side are called
A. Woven design fabric C. One side fabric
B. Plain fabric D. One way fabric
5. _____ are carried out when the fabrics have right and wrong side and when left and right
side components are different.
A. Double pick lay: C. Partial length wise
B. Single pick lay D. Combined fold

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