Chris White’s Wainwrights Coast to Coast Walk

(12th July 2021 to 25 July 2021)

Wainwright's Coast to Coast walk (C2C) is a 190 walk from St Bees on the coast
of Cumbria in the West, through the Lake District, the Yorkshire Dales, the Vale
of Mobray, and finally the North Yorkshire Moors before ending on the East coast
at Robin Hood Bay (RHB) in North Yorkshire.

Inspired by Graham's walk last year, and getting incredibly bored with lock down
over the winter with no prospect of overseas travel in the foreseeable future, I
made a list of things to do this summer, and C2C was one of them. I ordered a
guide book, watched videos about the C2C and wild camping on YouTube, then
started assembling my kit. I also joined the "Coast To Coast Walk" Facebook
group which helps generate enthusiasm when you see the photo's and reports of
other's crossings. One of the contributors to the group, Alby Williams, who has
just completed his 30th crossing, compiles a lot of useful info on camp sites,
wild camp spots, and facilities of the crossing which is available to the group
and proved invaluable.

I'd never done a solo unsupported long distance walk of this sort before,
although I have done multi day hikes, and wild camping on overseas trips. Apart
from regular walking with a daypack, my preparation started with a hike and
overnight wild camp on Dartmoor carrying my full C2C pack to check out my tent,
sleeping bag, cooking equipment etc. Next I did four days walking and wild
camping with my full pack on the South West Coast Path, walking from Westward Ho
to Boscastle. I picked one of the tougher sections, and pushed myself quite
hard because I wanted to make sure I could cope on the C2C with the weight. Four
days is normally the point at which you are either completely knackered, or
getting into the swing. All went well so I was ready for the C2C.

My plan was to walk the route in 13 days, with an extra two days in the schedule
in case I needed a rest day or got held up by bad weather in the mountains. 13
or 14 days is quite a relaxed pace and gives plenty of time to stop and take
photos and admire the views. Carrying a heavy backpack will slow you down,
especially on the steep hills, so allow 50% extra time. The plan was to camp
all the way, with a mix of wild camping and camp sites, although nothing was
booked in advance. If available I thought I might stay in an occasional B&B,
but as it turned out the weather was so good, and the B&B's so busy, that I
camped every night. I was self contained carrying everything with my backpack
weighing 18kg plus food and water. Probably heavier than it needed to be, but I
did four hard days on the SWCP to make sure I could handle the weight. The plan
was to eat in pubs or cafes, and buy something for the next days lunch in the
villages at the end of each day, or en-route. I carried a couple of dried
expedition meals and instant pasta meals, instant porridge for breakfast, and
nuts, dates, peanut bars and beef jerky for snacks. Cooking was limited to
boiling water for porridge or instant meals.

I was watching the long range weather forecasts and waiting for signs of fine
weather before making a last minute decision on when to start. I was flexible
with dates, and wanted a few days of reasonable weather to get through the lakes
and over the Pennines, after which it becomes generally drier. Finally on 5th
July the forecasts were all predicting a spell of fine weather starting the next
week, so I booked my transfer From Kirkby Stephen to the start (and back from
RHB) with C2CPackhorse and it was all systems go.

Day 0) July 11th.

I drove 349 miles up to Kirkby Stephen where I parked up, and spent my last
night in a proper bed. Kirkby Stephen is about 15 miles short of the C2C
midpoint, meaning I could resupply from the car.
Day 1) Monday 12th July. St Bees to Ennerdale Bridge. (15 miles).

I used the C2C Packhorse service to transfer to St Bees for the start. They also
run a bag transfer service, but I was self supported, carrying everything and
camping. Once there I performed the starting formalities and dipped my boots in
the Irish Sea and picked up a small stone to be carried to RHB. The weather was
warm and overcast with occasional light drizzle, but not enough for a coat. I
walked 15 miles to Ennerdale Bridge where I camped in the garden of the Fox and
Hounds pub and had dinner with a couple of beers to celebrate. Today’s walk was
mostly lowland fields, with Dent hill in the middle, and the beautiful
Nannycatch towards the end. Also camping were Kristian and Katy along with thier
little Cock-a-poo dog Slippers. Didn't really talk to them much that evening,
but as the walk progressed we seemed to constantly bump into each other as they
were on a very similar schedule.

Day 2) July 13th Ennerdale Bridge to Borrowdale (Stonethwaite). (15 miles).

Got up about 6:30, packed the tent up and left just after 7:00. Walked a short
distance down to the start of Ennerdale water, where I saw my first red squirrel
run across the road, then stopped and made breakfast of porridge and tea. After
breakfast I walked along the South side of Ennerdale water, then crossed to the
North side of the river Liza and walked through the forest, past piles of cut
tree trunks. Then on to YHA Black Sail hut which normally has an honesty kitchen
where anyone can make tea or coffee, but that was closed due to covid. Next up
the steep Loft Beck, over the top and a steep downhill to the Honister Slate
mine visitor centre, where I stopped for a very nice but overpriced quiche.
After that I continued to the villages of Borrowdale - Seatoller, then
Rosthwaite, and finally Stonethwaite where I first stopped at the pub then
camped at Stonethwaite farm campsite a bit further on. The pub was booked up for
food and there is no shop in Borrowdale, so I had one of the meals I was carring
at the camp site. The weather was very pleasant and starting to warm up nicely.

Day 3) July 14th Stonethwaite to Grisdale Tarn. (9 miles).

I don't sleep well camping, so I was up early, had porridge and tea, then set
off about 6:30. Because this was my first visit to the Lakes, and the weather
was so good with amazing views and all peaks completely clear of cloud, I
decided to change my schedule and use one of my planned rest days to spend an
extra day in the Lakes. Rather than walk all the way from Stonethwaite to
Patterdale, I decided to take the high level option via Helms Crag to Grasmere,
take a break, then walk on to Grisdale Tarn in the evening and wild camp. The
weather was getting hotter everyday. I had lunch in a cafe at Grasmere - very
busy and touristy but the first shops since St Bees. I sat in the Wordsworth
Daffodil garden for a couple of hours, then stocked up on sandwiches and pies in
the co-op, and walked up to Griesdale tarn where I found a spot and pitched my
tent. There were about half a dozen other tents but a long way apart.

Day 4) July 15th Grisdale Tarn to Angle Tarn. (9 miles).

A short day again today. The weather was starting to heat up now. As usual I
started walking early, and took one of the high level options over St. Sunday
Crag and then down into Patterdale where I arrived at about 11:00am. While
waiting for the pub to open for lunch I got chatting to a guy who posts walking
videos on youtube as "Northern Monkey Dan". He dropped into Patterdale like he
always does for a bacon roll at the Patterdale village store only to find it had
closed down and was up for sale. We had lunch in the pub together and went our
separate ways. Before I left a chap came up to me slightly distressed and asked
me if I'd seen his meditation beads on the way which he'd lost on Helvellyn. I
hadn't since I wasn't on Helvellyn, but I later found out his name was Daniel
and he was another one I kept bumping into for the rest of the walk. I made my
way up the long ascent to Angle Tarn where I was camping that night. I arrived
early so I bagged prime spot on the little peninsula, then had a swim, washed my
t-shirt, and sat around in the sun until later before pitching my tent. There
was probably nine or ten other tents there that night, but well spread out. I
was just getting to sleep about 22:30 when there was a row outside my tent, and
when I looked out I was surrounded by several dozen geese which had come ashore
to feed on the grass around my tent.

Day 5) July 16th Angle Tarn to Shap. (13 miles).

This was a tough day, made a bit easier by starting from Angle Tarn rather than
Patterdale, which saves 300m of ascent. This is the day the trail leaves the
lakes and mountains behind. The sun was really starting to heat up now, with 26
degree midday temperatures forcast, although probably hotter in the sun. I was
on my way by 6:00am to avoid the hottest part of the day. From Angle Tarn the
route followed High Street, before turning off sharply to Kidsty Pike, and then
a steep descent to the start of Haweswater where I took a break, soaked my feet
in the cold beck, and filtered some more driking water. The route followed the
shore of Haweswater, then across farmland to Shap Abby. Finally up the road to
Shap where I arrived about 14:00. I got some food and drink from the village
store and slumped on the seat outside while I recovered. Once I had a bit more
energy I went to the Crown Inn and got a camping spot in the garden. I stocked
up with more food from the co-op, then had dinner and beer at the pub. This is
where I next bumped into Kristian, Katy and Slippers.

Day 6) July 17th. Shap to Kirkby Stephen. (21 miles)

This was a long day although on paper not an especially tough day, but it was a
very, very hot day - probably the hottest day when the forecast temperature was
28 degrees. I set off at 6:00am with 4.5 litres of water. It was quite pleasent
for the first couple of hours. Early in the walk the trail crossed over the M6.
After a couple of hours I stopped for a break at Robin Hoods Grave (but not THAT
Robin Hood), and saw a fox run out who didn't expect anyone to be around at that
time. Next the path went across farmland where the farmers were working long
hours getting thier hay in while the weather was good, and stopped at the
honesty summer house at Sunbiggin, where I had three cans of drink in addition
to my water. Then it got very, very hot for the trek across the moor, with
absolutely nowhere to shelter from the sun. Bumped into Kristian, Katy and
Slippers on the walk and didn't know how Slippers coped with the heat, but they
had a special dog cooling jacket where the top reflected the heat, and the
underside held water to cool the dog. This along with plenty of water, and
occasional dunking in streams and animal water troughs. The dog was smart, and
when she was thirsty, or hungry, or just wanted to be carried she stopped, sat
on the ground and refused to move. I eventually made it to Kirkby Stephen about
16:00 absolutely knackered, having consumed about 5.5 litres of fluid, and
bought a litre of milk and food at the co-op and sat on the pavement outside
while I recovered. Stayed at the Pennine View campsite for the night, where I
bumped into Daniel of the lost meditation beads again, and also met Ben and his
girlfriend who were doing a charity walk.

Day 7) July 18th Kirkby Stephen to Keld. (11 miles)

This was a late start for me as I had to replenish my supplies from the car.
Also the belt on my shorts was cutting into my side due to the weight of the
backpack on my hips, so I taped some absorbant pads over the sores, then with a
needle and thread from my emergency repair kit altered the belt loops on my
shorts to stop the belt riding up. I couldn't take the belt off because my
shorts would fall down. Back on the trail at 9:30, and feeling much more
comfortable. The first part of the walk was up over nine standards rig and then
over the pennines, leaving Cumbria and into North Yorkshire. The weather was
still hot, but not quite as hot as the day before so a bit easier, even though
the there was a long ascent up Nine Standards Rigg. The views from Nine
Standards Rigg were fantastic and uninterupted, as they've been the whole time.
By now there was a group of about 10 of us walking a roughly similar shedule, so
we walked together at times, and other times did out own thing. After coming
down off the moor we passed Ravenseat farm, where they film Our Yorkshire Farm.
Originally the teashop was to cater for C2C walkers, but since it's become
famous it's a tourist attraction, and was very busy. We stopped there as the
others wanted a cream tea. Apparently Amanda was serving cream teas in her
caravan wearing hotpants and a bikini top. Had a good day by all accounts as
she sold 200 cream teas at £5 each and ran out of scones. After that we walked
the final easy couple of miles into Keld, and stopped at Rudkins Farm campsite,
and had bacon rolls and cakes at the farm shop. Just as it got dark the midges
attacked, and I retreated to my tent where the insect mesh inner successfully
kept them at bay.

Day 8) July 19th Keld to Reeth. (11 miles)

I left early today again. Crossed the Pennine Way trail which runs South-North
through Keld. For todays C2C section, there is the option of two routes, the
lower route down Swaledale, following the Swale, and the high level route
through the old lead mines and smelting works. I took the upper route as the
weather was still fantastic, but still very hot. The first half the walk was
very scenic and full of interesting old ruined mining buildings, as well as
ruined Crackpot Hall. At the top of the beck, the moors were full of red
grouse, then the long bland roadway through barren old quarry or mine workings
seemed to go on forever with no respite from the hot sun, before decending
gently towards the old lead smelting works. I had lunch sitting under a bridge
which was about the only shade for miles. I arrived in Reeth about 14:00, got a
drink at the village shop, went down to the Orchard Campsite and pitched my
tent, then returned to the main square to find the rest of the walkers drinking
outside the pubs. Although very busy we managed to get a table at the Black
Bull for dinner.

Day 9) July 20th. Reeth to Richmond (Colburn). (13 miles)

I left early as usual. Another hot sunny day. The start of the walk followed
the Swale through pastures, then easy tracks across farmland and some roads past
Marrich Priory, the hamlet of Marrick and the village of Marske. A very pleasant
walk river / countryside walk, but no spectacular landscapes unless you count
Richmond and it's castle. I had lunch in Richmond, then walked a further 3 miles
to Colburn where the Hildyard Arms lets you camp for free in the garden if you
have a meal or a couple of drinks. It was a Tuesday and they wern't serving
food, so the owner gave everyone a leaflet for a local pizza delivery, so I had
a pizza and the obligatory beers with the locals. It was a quiet but very
friendly pub. Also camping was Daniel, and a new face Michael, a recently
retired FE History lecurer who was taking his time, and started the C2C on 30th
June, some 20 days earlier.

Day 10) July 21st Colburn to Danby Wiske. (12 miles)

Usual early start. Another hot sunny day. This was probably the most urban
section on the walk, although still lots of walking across farmland. I
originally planned to walk through to Inglby Cross, but after stopping at the
wonderful honesty box come shed at the camp site late morning, I replanned my
route and camped here. Dinner was at the White Lion, which was hard work as you
had to book your dinner and tell them what you wanted before 17:30. I guess
some days it's dead and they can't afford to pay staff every day. Still the
food was good, Later Michael and Daniel seperately arrived at the camp site.

Day 11) July 22nd Danby Wiske to Lord Stones. (12 miles)

Usual early start. Another hot sunny day. The first 10 miles to Ingleby Cross
was across farmland, then a long uphill through the forest and the trail joined
the Cleveland Way, and the start of the North Yorkshire moors. It was a
relatively easy further four miles to the Lordstones campsite, cafe and shop,
where I had dinner.

Day 12) July 23rd. Lord Stones to Blakely Ridge. (17 miles)

By walking past Ingleby Cross to Lordstones the day before, it made the next
days walk, which is normally a tough 22 miler, a bit easier. Usual early start.
This is the first day the tops of the hills were slightly obscured by cloud, but
it soon burned off and turned into another hot day. The first few miles of the
walk were tough, with four steep ups and downs, similar in profile to the
section of the SWCP between Lulworth and Kimmeridge. (There is the option of an
easier low level path). After than the final hill takes you up to the moor
proper where it levelled out, with a fairly uninteresting landrover track all
the way to Blakely Ridge. At Blakely Ridge there is the Lion pub, and nothing
else. You can camp with the sheep in a field next to the pub for £2.50, and use
the toilets and a shower in the pub, but it closes at night and doesn't open
until 08:00 in the morning. The food was excellent with large portions, although
by North Yorkshire standards a bit more expensive at 15.95 for steak and ale
pie.

Day 13) July 24th. Blakely Ridge to Little Beck (Intake Farm). (16 miles)

Usual early start. Still fine and dry, but a little overcast, so much more
pleasant walking weather. Left initially on my own, but soon joined up with
Katy, Kristian and Slippers, as well as superwoman Emma who was backpacking the
C2C in 9 days. All were camped at the Lion Inn, and staying at Intake Farm
tonight. Emma started out with her father, but left him behind in the Lakes
because he was too slow! The first 9 miles of the walk was more landrover track
across the moor, and we got to Glaisdale by about 9:30, averaging 3mph. There
was nowhere open for breakfast so we got some food at the village shop and ate
it outside. Next onto Grosmont with the old steam railway, which starred as the
Hogwarts Express in the Harry Potter films. We stopped at the station cafe for
coffee. Next onto Intake farm near LittleBeck, about 3 miles past Grosmont
where we were camping in the farm house garden. On leaving Grosment, there was a
long ascent and in the distance we could see Whitby and the ruined Whitby Abbey.
When we arrived at Intake farm, Judith the proprieter brought out tea and cake,
as she does for everyone who stays there. I pitched my tent, then had a shower
in the farm house and waited until dinner. Homecooked Lasagne and veg plus
rhubarb crumble.

Day 14) July 25th. Little Beck to RHB. (12 miles)

This was the last day so five of us (the four and slippers the dog from
yesterday, plus a new face Danny) walked as a group so we could finish and
celebrate together. The weather was hot and sunny again. Littlebeck wood was
very scenic with the quirky hermitage carved out of solid stone, and the Falling
Foss waterfall. Leaving Littlebeck wood we took a very sharp left and walked up
the road towards Hawsker where Kristian spotted three adders on the verge.
Roads and easy tracks through Hawsker to the coast between Whitby and RHB. Then
the final couple of miles along the coast path to RHB where Emma and Danny's
families were waiting to greet them. Once at RHB we went through the post walk
formalities - photo at the board marking the end, a walk to the waters edge to
wet your boots and cast the stone brought from St. Bees into the North Sea, a
pint (or several) of Wainwright ale, and finally fish and chips. Emma's father
(who was a year younger than me!) arrived a couple of hours later with Daniel
(he of the lost meditation beads). Although he couldn't keep up with Emma in
the Lakes, he was a veteran runner and still fit, and put in 35mile days on the
easier terrain to catch up.

After that I spent my final night at a RHB campsite, followed by a lazy day
before I was picked up by C2CPackhorse for my transfer back to Kirkby Stephen,
and the long drive back home. The weather was hot and sunny again. Next day
the fine weather broke and it started raining.

Conclusions

It's a nice distance that you can complete in a couple of weeks, so don't need
extended vacation time to walk it in one go. Also the fact that most walkers
complete it in one go means you see the same people over and over again which
makes it a very friendly trail. Even though I started solo, you soon get to know
other walkers. I did a couple of wild camps, but for me it was more fun staying
on camp sites. If wild camping you tend to avoid a lot of the other walkers
since your start and end points are different.

Apart from the busier parts of the Lakes, most of the businesses en-route have
to make more effort to attract business, so much more willing to go the extra
mile than say in the south west. If you are backpacking the C2C and the campsite
is full they still find you somewhere to pitch up.

Borrowdale is the wettest place in the country with over 5m of rain a year, so
it might be very wet if you pick the wrong week. Probably 50% of walkers stay
in b&b's and use baggage transfer services, the rest backpack it. If solo, B&B's
get expensive, and they need to be booked well in advance which means you can’t
go at the last minute for good weather.