1-30V Benchtop Power Supply in ATX PSU House: Instructables
1-30V Benchtop Power Supply in ATX PSU House: Instructables
1-30V Benchtop Power Supply in ATX PSU House: Instructables
by Rundhall
In this instruction, I will explain how I built an I found some great instruction about benchtop DIY
adjustable (voltage/current limit) DC benchtop power power supplies, some of that modify the original
supply using some components of an old PC ATX electronics of the PC PSU and give fix 5V and 12 V,
power supply. other instructions using power supply modules and
build it into a new housing, I combined all these and
My goal was a small and cheap unit with great power created my version.
performance. I needed adjustable wide range output
6mm Knurled Shaft Potentiometer 2 pcs 0,148 $/pc 200k potentiometer 1 pc 0,217 $/pc 0,217 $/total
0,296 $/total
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/WH148-B200K-
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10PCS-Useful- 15mm-...
Volu...
AC to 12VDC adapter 10A 120W power supply 100V
500k potentiometer 1 pc 0,336 $/pc 0,336 $/total -265V 1 pc 9,91 $/pc 9,91 $/total
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Smart-Electronics... https://www.aliexpress.com/item/A96-160Pcs-M3-
Nyl...
Banana connector socket 1 pc 1,63 $/pc 1,63 $/total
ATX PSU from my old computer 1 pc 0 $/pc 0$/total .
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Speaker-banana- Any old, broken PSU can be suitable. I do not
pl... recommend to buy a new one just find a PSU from an
old computer. Requirements for the PSU: the fan
Voltmeter Ammeter Dual LED Display 1 pc 1,96 $/pc should work and the fun size should be 120 mm and
1,96 $/total placed on the top side of PSU. (this will give you
space and cooling)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10PCS-ULN2003-
Ste...
I opened the PSU and removed all electronics, Next, to the power connector, there is the main AC
except the board soldered to the power socket. This switch. I left the switch there, but I disconnected from
board is an EMI filter. I decided to leave intact the circuit and put a new switch on the other side of
because it will give better power input to my adapter the house, because this side will be the front panel of
and has an already established grounding to the the PSU, and the main switch should be there. The
house and has cable outputs that can be used for cable entry of the original PSU was perfect for the
connection to other modules. round AC switch. I did not need to drill a new hole for
the switch, and I did not need to fill the hole left by the
I cut all cables at the PSU main board and used them removed cables.
for wiring.
A made holes for the potentiometers, display and for created a huge spark and burned the connector
the banana connector socket. Before drilling I (picture attached), after
checked that the fan will take some space from the
front panel and the potentiometers, the display can be that I widened the holes to have better isolation.
placed only on the right side of the front panel, not in
the center as it would be logical. I drilled small holes I installed spacers to the house with screws for the
around the outline of the display and used a rasp to converters. I used nylon spacers and screws to
make it rectangular. I fixed all components insulate the house from the converter. I checked the
temporarily into the box to found the right place for height of the converters to see if the fan still has
the AC/DC and for the DC/DC converters. At the first enough space.
time, I made small, tight holes for the banana
connector socket and at 30 V pierced throw and
Some words about how this circuit works. The 230 V current measuring unit is placed between the ground
is transferred into 12V DC. The 12 VDC will power output connector and the OUT- pin of the DC/DC
the fan, which will cool the whole unit. The same converter. The voltage measuring yellow cable of the
12VDC will be the input for the DC/DC step up and display module should be connected to OUT+ pin of
down converter and also power the display, which is the DC/DC converter
measuring the Voltage and current. The DC/DC
converter is controlled by two potentiometers. The First I connected all low voltage components to test
DC/DC converter has three originally soldered the units. I connected them as you can see at the
potentiometers. I had to replace two from them by attached schematic (instead of AC/DC converter I
external linear potentiometers. I connected DC/DC used my old PSU). I tried the circuit with load as well
converter’s Vout-set pins to a 500 Kohm and the CC- but only for a short time, because the unit can be
set pins to a 200 Kohm potentiometers. The UV-set damaged without active cooling.
potentiometer should be left intact, only set to
maximum.(In this application will not be used.) The
After I know that everything is working correctly. I The cables should be thick enough, I used 1 mm^2
installed components to their final place in the wire for the main power lines. Careful with cabling,
following order. Display, banana connector socket, WARNING! 230VAC is dangerous. Before plug it in, I
Potentiometers already cabled to DC/DC converter, used a multimeter to check that “L” and “N” lines are
DC/DC converter, AC/DC converter. After installation, isolated from each other and form the house. I
I made the remaining cabling. I fixed one side of the checked the connection between the grounding PIN
cable, measured the correct size, cut the length and at the AC/DC converter and the house. Double check
fixed this side of the cable as well. The length of the all connection and cables before plugging it in.
cables should be as short as possible. Longer cables
should be fixed to the lower part of the housing
because long, free cables can get caught by the fan.
I am still testing the unit with a loads. It works like a charm. The maximum performance I tried 13V 9A (114 W)
My plans for the future are: Placing a fuse next to the power connector, this will make the whole unit safer. I
ordered some vinyl to cover the house, to look better. Not arrived yet. I plan to conduct more tests with other loads.