Ladies Tailor Complete

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LMDIBS' TRILOR
BS
Complete
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INSTRUCTOR
BY
Hughes
.
6c Storey,
ST. LOUIS, MO.
COPYRIGHT SECURED OCTOBER. 1892, BY HUGHES & STOREY.
EKEEL PRINT. 1007-e-li LOCUST STREET. ST. LOUIS.

*-INST N SHEET*
IEASURES.
O supply the demand of ailor-cut patterns, we have had instruction sheets printed
®? which illustrates
for writing the
and
same.
t 'i _isely how to take accurate measures,
Before ordering a pattern, our patrons (if
and gives blank spaces
not already in possesson of the
Lathes' Tailor instruction book) must send us 10 cents in postage for one of these instruction sheets, then
have her measure taken and return with her order for the pattern wanted. We do not cut patterns from
measures taken according to the directions given by charts or other methods, because as a rule they are
unreliable. Dressmakers who desire to make up dresses for their customers at a distance, or wish to in-
crease their business by filling orders by mail, will find these instruction sheets the very thing needed to
assist them in this part of their business. They can be sent to their patrons and measures obtained that
will afford both them and their customer a basis for confidence that beautifully fitting garments will be
secured. These instruction sheets are furnished to dressmakers at the rate of 25 cents per dozen.
PRICE OF TAILOR-CUT PATTERNS.

When we take your measure, or when it is taken according to our instructions, we guarantee
the pattern to fit.
Basque, Coat, Seamless Waist, Cape, Riding Habit, (Jacket or Habit proper), Riding Skirt, or
Trousers $1 50 each
Riding Habit, full suit, including Habit Skirt and Trousers 4 00
Princess, Wrapper, Ulster, Newmarket, Dolman, or Circular 2 50 each
Skirt, Boys' Coat, Boys' Knee Pants, Gents' Shirts, or Children's Suits 1 00 each
Sleeves, Girdles, etc 50 each

Collars 25 each
GRADED PATTERNS.
Wnen
you order a pattern without taking a complete measure you should send us the bust meas-
ure and we will send you a regular graded pattern, which will give a handsome outline and symmetrical
shapes, but not guaranteed to fit, for the following prices:
Coat, Cape, Riding Habit, Riding Skirt, or Trousers $ 75 each
Princess, Wrappers, Dolman, Cloaks,
Ulsters, Circulars, etc 1 50 each
Basque, Skirt, Boys' Coat, Knee Pants, Gents' Shirts, Child's Suit 50 each
Sleeves 25 each.
DRAFTINGS AND PATTERNS.

It is our desire to assist our agents and patrons who have purchased our System by correspond-
ence in overcoming any difficulties they may have in learning to make an}- draftings given in our instruc-
tion books. The best way to meet difficulties of this kind in making any draftings is to make a drafting
as nearly correct as possible and send it to us by mail, and we will make a drafting, numbering and let-
tering every line and dot the same as given on diagrams in our instruction books, and trace out a pattern
and return both drafting and pattern. From this drafting and traced pattern, with the aid of our printed
instructions, anyone can easily learn to make perfect draftings to any measure. These draftings and
patterns will be made to any measure desired, and when measures are not mentioned will be made to
those given in our instruction book. These draftings and patterns will be furnished to our agents and
those who are learning our System at a discount of 50 per cent, on the prices given above for tailor-
cut patterns.
:
PREFACE.
THE theory adopted in the invention of
ment of its printed insti actions is,
The Ladies' Tailor System
that the cutting of ladies' garments
of dress
is
and cloak cutting, and the develop-
mechanical work, and should be
controlled only by the same scientific principles so successfully used by all the expert mechanics of the world.
It is universally admitted that the square and compass form the very foundation of all mechanics, therefore, we have
united in this System all the curies of the compass used in cutting clothing with the mechanic's square, and the lessons
contained in this instruction book teach how to apply these principles to cutting all styles of ladies' and children's
garments. Another fundamental feature of this System, and which distinguishes it as being absolutely new and gives
its superiority over all others heretofore published, is that what is called the law of proportion is discarded altogether,
so far as obtaining the correct size of any portion of the draft is concerned, and strictly square measurement alone is
confidently relied upon to obtain the true size of a perfect fitting garment. Proportion, however, is fully recognized
when it comes to the shaping of the various pieces so as to obtain a handsome outline and symmetrical shapes, and
to make each piece of the garment in perfect harmony. In other words, in all draftings made by The Ladies' Tailor
System, actual measurement and harmonious proportions go hand in hand. The cutter is taught to rely exclusively on
the measures to secure a draft that will define the actual size, and at the same time to combine harmonious shapes and
proportions for each separate figure. This principle is not yet appreciated by many cutters. There are thousands who
still ignore the relation of the measures with proportion, and rely exclusively on patterns, charts, models, machines, etc.,
which only give graduated patterns, and then hope to make up for the deficiencies in their drafts by their skill in
refitting. Others go one step further, and take what they consider a well proportioned draft and endeavor to correct
its deficiencies by the application of some of the more important measures, and the remainder by refitting. It is self-
evident, that those who use a perfect tailor System do their work systematically and aim to do their cutting exactly
right, can be reasonably sure of excelling all who do not even try to do so, but who intend after they have cut a mis-
fitting garment to make up for the work they have done wrong by altering and changing. It is our desire to give dress-
makers, and all ladies who appreciate improvements in this direction, a change in this old-fashioned and slovenly
manner of work, and place before them a System that employs only the principles that all expert mechanics must say
are correct, because they are identical with those used by themselves. The following objections to so thorough a
System are sometimes raised which are worthy of notice
1st. "A scientific System is too complicated and difficult for young students." Nothing could be further from
the truth than this idea. If learned on proper principles garment-cutting, instead of being difficult, soon becomes an
attractive study, and to become a proficient and expert cutter is much easier than is usually supposed.
2nd. "It takes too much time to take measures and make draftings accurately." The truth is, that the very
bestway to save time in dressmaking is to be accurate and careful in taking measures and in making draftings, because,
when this preliminary part of the work is done correctly it will as a rule save all the time that is lost, both for the dress-
maker and her customer in refitting, and will always do so if the garment is properly basted and made up not only so, ;
but it saves all the worry, trouble and dissatisfaction that frequently results from fitting a garment several times.
3rd. "There are so many methods of cutting, each claiming superiority, that I think one is as good as another."
Where there is so much room for improvement, as there is in dressmaking, it seems plain that a System that substitutes
actual measurement for what has heretofore been only proportion or guess work, possesses advantages, and that some
of the methods in use must be better than others, and that one can be selected which is truly the best. The
Ladies' Tailor is presented by the authors with the conviction, that when it is critically examined and compared
with others, that it will be so denominated. We presume, however, that those who prefer to do their work by chance
and believe one way is as good as another, that a set of graduated patterns is quite in harmony with their capacity. It
is confidently believed that the instructions contained in this book, when thoroughly mastered, will give the cutter such
a comprehensive knowledge of cutting ladies' garments, that they will be able to reproduce any new pattern or drafting
that may come out in the future, and will be well qualified to fill the most responsible positions as cutters in the best
establishments in this country.
TREATISE ON DRESS CUTTING.
The public can reasonably expect, in this age of improvement, that those who profess to be practical dress-
makers should not only be able to do good sewing, finishing, draping and designing, but that they should be masters of
a System of Dress Cutting, the accuracy of which is sufficient to give the same assurance when they leave an order for
a dress that a good fit will be secured that a gentleman has when he leaves his order for a suit with a first class tailor.
This expectation is sure to meet with disappointment so long as there are so many thousands of dressmakers who really
possess nothing better than charts by which all their garments are cut ( the term charts includes all methods of cutting
which cut by proportion, whether it is a pasteboard chart with holes arranged by guess or a machine chart with movable
slides or methods that use a square for part of its work only and scales or proportionate figures for the remainder.)
The worthlessness of charts is self-evident when we consider the fact that there are no two forms alike any more than
there are two faces, and that all charts give the same proportion and the same shapes for all kinds of forms. This is a
matter of serious importance to all, especially to the ambitious dressmaker, because it forms the very foundation of
success in her business.
All expert cutters know that a badly cut garment can never be made to fit properly, as the changing of seams
here and there throws the entire waist out of balance, spoils the shape and symmetry of the different pieces, and com-
pletely ruins the grace and beauty of the garment. No amount of good sewing, fine finishing, elaborate trimming or
stylish draping can possibly remedy it. A first-class System, based on unfailing geometrical principles which will
uniformly insure success and give the enterprising modiste thorough control of this part of her profession, becomes
a prime factor.
THE LADIES' TAILOR SYSTEM

Combines all the qualities that meet this necessity. Those who use such inferior methods must always remain inferior
dressmakers, because their methods alone are sufficient to prevent them from excelling in their profession, regardless of
any amount of natural ability, taste or may have. It does not follow, however, that all who possess
experience they
this System will be equally good cutters. Two
may be employed in the same establishment, using the same
cutters
System, and obtain very different results. One takes loose, easy measures, the other takes them more closely. One
may carelessly take incorrect measures, while the other displays the greatest care in taking accurate measures. One
is superficial and careless, paying little or no attention to details, the other is accurate and thorough, and observes
closely every peculiarity in different figures, the hardness or softness of the tissues, the quality of the material to be used,
etc., etc., and displays good taste and skill, not only in obtaining the correct size in every part of his draftings, but in
shaping the various pieces so as to be the most becoming and give the most artistic effect to each different form.
In no branch of dressmaking does the use of good judgment yield such fruitful results. A well cut dress, with
each of the pieces the proper size and shape, not only means a good fit, but gives grace and beauty of outline, ease and
comfort to the one who wears it, is much more easily made, wears longer, looks better, gives greater satisfaction, and
last but not least, is always the best possible advertisement for the dressmaker wherever it moves. For anyone who
uses The Ladies' Tailor to become an expert cutter in a very short time, is a very easy thing.
One word alone expresses the quality necessary to win this accomplishment. That word is ACCURACY.
ACCURACY in taking measures, ACCURACY in making draftings, ACCURACY in tracing the lining, ACCURACY
in basting. These four things are absolutely necessary for success. With these, perfect fitting dresses without the
alteration of one stitch are certain. Without them, or any one of them, some change will have to be made.
All intelligent cutters know that Dress Cutting is mechanical work, and that the square and compass are the
basis of all mechanics. The Ladies' Tailor is the square of inches combined with all the curves of the compass which
are used in cutting clothing. It can therefore never be wrong. One great advantage to the modiste who uses it is that
she always knows that if the slightest alteration in any garment is necessary, it is due to no fault in her system of work,
but to errors either in taking measures, making the drafting or putting together. She is thus enabled in a moment to
correct the mistakes, and by avoiding them in the future, soon become a very skillful and expert cutter.
SUGGESTIONS TO DRESSMAKERS.
"There is room at the top," is an expression that conveys an idea that is applicable not only to professions but
is pre-eminently true in dressmaking. The salaries of expert cutters, foreladies and stylish dressmakers vary all the
way from $12.00 to $75.00 per week according to ability. It is therefore self-evident that all ladies' tailors, modistes,
and especially young dressmakers should desire to excel in their business and the following suggestions are given for
the purpose of aiding them to do so.
1st. COMMENCE WITH A FIXED DETERMINATION TO BE SUCCESSFUL. Remember that there
is no excellence without great labor, that to win the highest honors and greatest reward demands faithful, pains-taking,
care, close application to your business and perseverance. Any person of ordinary intelligence can reasonably expect
success, if these principles are continually followed.
2nd. FOSTER AND CULTIVATE A SPIRIT OF CONFIDENCE IN YOURSELF AND IN YOUR

OWN ABILITY. Many young dressmakers suffer disaster and defeat in the battle of life so far as their business is
concerned simply and only because they are forever mistrusting themselves and fearful that they cannot accomplish the
work that thousands of others do. You should, however, see to it that this self confidence is not merely self conceit,
but that you actually possess knowledge and ability. Set your heart on becoming an artist in your business, worthy of
the confidence of the public, and you will soon have a good share of the public's patronage. Self conceit is to be
avoided. There are thousands who have who are still second or third grade
been engaged in this business for years
dressmakers, and the main cause of their incompetency is their overwhelming conceit. They seem to imagine that they
know all that there is to be known in their business and therefore make but very little effort to learn or improve on their
old time methods of work.

3rd. STUDY THE BEST METHODS OF DEALING WITH CUSTOMERS. Many simply manage to
exist while they should rank among the first modistes of the land and win great prosperity, simply by mismanagement
in dealings with their patrons.
4th. PR'lCES. If you do poor work you should only expect a poor price. If you do good work you have a right
to receive good prices. If you do fine work you should then demand high prices, and the finer the work the higher
prices you should receive. There is no such thing as extortionate prices in dressmaking providing the quality of your
work and the reputation you have established as an artist in your line are in harmony with your prices. Abundance
of work is usually associated with high prices. Find the person in your town that charges the most and
you will probably find the one that has the most to do. Find the modiste or ladies' tailor in any city that
demands the highest price and you will find the one who has the largest business. Find the person whose charges are
larger than any other in this country and you will find the person that does more business than any other person in
America and the one who charges more than any other in the workl probably has the largest business in the world.
The inventors of the Ladies' Tailor System believe that you have a perfect right to obtain every dollar you possibly can
for your work providing that your prices are uniform and that you treat all your patrons alike.
Never allow customers to set their price on your work. That is your business and you must manage your own
business or you will soon have no business to manage. Never allow customers to get work done at reduced prices be-
cause of the great influence they assume to have and which they promise to turn in your favor. The best possible in-
fluence you can have is to establish a reputation for doing fine work. Perfectly fitting and well made dresses have an
influence wherever they move that cannot fail to bring you increased patronage. Beware of that class of friends who
want you to do work for them cheaper than for others because they are your friends. The more friends you have of this
kind the worse off you will be. It is a poor rule that does not work both ways. If their friendship is sincere why should
they not say, " I am one of your friends, I know that you earn your money by your business and labor and I will there-
fore pay you a little more than I would others for the same work." Always endeavor to give a prospective customer all
the information she desires about the garment wanted before you give your price.
5th. CREDIT. In our judgment the only persons that should do a credit business are those who have sufficient
capital to meet all current expenses and fill their customer's orders for several months without payment and who have a
class of wealthy patrons who are perfectly responsible. All others should do only a strictly cash business and not allow
a single dress to be delivered until paid for. It is better to lose customers than to be working for nothing, which all who
do a credit business will sometimes have to do. You cannot earn a living, meet current expenses or pay your emploves
fair wages on promises.
THE LADIES' TAILOR SYSTEM.
6th. KEEP ORDER IN YOUR WORK-ROOM. This is a good motto and quite necessary in establishing a
good business.
7th. NEVER FAIL TO WAIT ON YOUR PATRONS YOURSELF IF POSSIBLE.
8th. CORRECT MISTAKES FOR CUSTOMERS made by yourself or employes promptly. if
9th. TREAT YOUR SEWING GIRLS AND ALL EMPLOYES KINDLY AND GENEROUSLY but be
exacting in having them attend to their work promptly, having their work done as directed and their time well employed
Not one in a thousand will thank you for allowing them to disobey your instructions, to shirk their work or neglect their
duty, but on the contrary will love and esteem you if they know that while they are treated with consideration and kind-
ness that they must do their duty.
10th. IF IT IS POSSIBLE HAVE REGULAR HOURS FOR BUSINESS AND NEVER WORK AT
NIGHT. It has been proven again and again that those who do this accomplish more work in ten hours than those
who try to work day and night.
11th. IN TAKING MEASURES BE DELIBERATE, EXCEEDINGLY CAREFUL AND ACCURATE

both in obtaining the measure and writing it in your measure book. Great care in this preliminary part of the work will
not only save a great deal of time and annoyance but will give your patrons greater satisfaction and have a tendency al-
ways to build up your business. Much annoyance, loss of time and money would often be avoided if all instructors
were written clearly when the orders are taken, then if a customer changes her mind or is in anyway displeased the writ-
ten instructions are at hand to show just what was ordered, and if changes are desired a reasonable price could be ex-
pected for making them.
12th. BE PROGRESSIVE, KEEP UP WITH THE TIMES. The ever varying changes in fashions and the
introduction of novelties in the cutting and making of ladies' garments, afford one a splendid opportunity to excel, and
the one who will constantly study her business and be prepared to give her patrons the very latest styles and novelties
accompanied with good work will be sure to do so. It is so easy to get in the habit of always doing work in one
regular way that many fall into it and thus become old fogy dressmakers and sacrifice much business that they could
otherwise control.
IMPORTANT TO BEGINNERS.
The demand of our day is skilled labor, and this will always command a high price. The bright reward of success
can be obtained by any young woman of ordinary intelligence who will commence with a definite object in view and who
will sit down and seriously study each lesson. There are many who simply learn to make a draft of a plain basque by
this System in three or four lessons, and others who simply learn the plain basque from printed instructions, and after-
wards win a fair measure of success, but if even three or six months time were required to master this System thoroughly
the results would amply repay the student for her time and labor. If you wish to become an expert in the science of cutting
so that you can take a position as forewoman or cutter or start in business for yourself you must begin at the beginning
and go on step by step until every detail in our first instruction book is mastered. All knowledge apart from this is
uncertain, unsatisfactory and superficial. The only difficulty in mastering all the details of instructions in this Complete
Instructor will be found in the want of knowledge of primary lessons given in our first instruction book; therefore the
student should take no step forward until each lesson preceding it has been thoroughly understood. The more thor-
oughly the first simple lessons are learned the more perfect will the student become in the science of dresscutting. It
may take a day, a week or a month, but it will be time well spent, for without the knowledge of the first lessons the
finest success cannot attend your studies. Therefore the thorough mastery of the plain lessons given in our instruction
drafts is not only important but ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY. We would therefore advise the beginner not only to
learn to make the plain drafting but to spend her spare time in practice until able to make the plain draftings quickly
and accurately.
ADDRESS ALL COMMUNICATIONS TO HUGHES & STOREY, ST. LOUIS, MO.

—

FRENCH BIAS BASQUE WITH STRAIGHT FRONT. Fig. 1.
N. B. Remember always that you must refer to the Life-sized Instruction Drafts for numbers of lines or dots
not found on diagrams given in this book.

Is drafted the same as
plain basque, with the fol-
lowing exceptions :
1. Draw line 1 4 inches

from edge of paper.
2. Continue line 9 down

to bottom of basque.
3. Make dot 34 on line
9 instead of line 1.
4. Draw line A from dot

34 square with line 9.
5. Make the dots for

darts on line A in the same
manner as on line 35 in in-
struction draft.
6. Make dot B on line
A the same distance from
dot 40 that line 1 is from
dot 34.
7. Draw line C square
with line 9.
8. Draw lines 44 and 45

through center of darts
square with line C.
9. Draw the darts the
same as in instruction draft
with the exception of line
D which is drafted with
dart curve from top of dart
across dot B to bottom of
basque. The bias dart
should be made Jb inch
higher than height of dart
measure.
10. Make dot E the same
distance from top of back
dart that dot 39 is from top
of dart.
11. Make new waist line

from dot 39 to dot E.
12. Draw line 42 from
dot E to dot 28.
FRENCH BIAS BASQUE WITH FRENCH FRONT.

Fig. 1.
Is made as illustrated by dotted lines 64, 63 and I in Fig. 1.
1. Make dot F % inch inside of dot 34 on line A. 4. The darts should be set back the same distance
2. Make dot G the same as dot 62 in instruction that dot F is from dot 34, and inch must be deducted
%
draft. from size of front dart.
3. Draw curved lines for front the same, as lines 63 5. Make dot H on line 9 6 inches below dot 34.
and 64 in instruction draft. 6. Draw line I from dot F to dot H.

FRENCH BIAS BASQUE WITH TWO UNDER-ARM PIECES.

Fig. 2.
Is drafted the same as Fig. 1, with the following exceptions:
1. The back piece at waist should be about 1 inch wide. to a point three inches below waist line square with line 15.
2. Side-body at waist should be from 2 to 2}4 inches 10. Make dot H the width of side-body in back from
wide. top of line G on line 15.
3. In the front make dot A 1 inch outside from dot 19. 11. Draw lineI from dot H through the center of back
4. Draw line B from dot 23 across dot A to a point under-arm dart and to a point 3 inches below waist line.
". inches below waist line using sleeve curve, point S at dot 12. Lines K, L, M and N are drawn the same as lines
23 (turn System over). 30 and 31 in instruction draft.
5. Make dot C the width of side-body in back from 13. Make dot O 1 inch from end of line B.
dot A. 14. Make dot P 1 inch from end of line 1.
6. Make dot D y2 inch from dot C. 15. Make dot Q 1 inch from end of line G.
7. Make dot E the width of side-body in back from 16. Make dot R )± inch from end of line G.
dot D. 17. Make dot S j£ inch from end of line I.
8. Make dot F y2 inch from dot E. 18. Draw skirt lines in the same manner as in instruc-
9. Draw line G through center of front under-arm dart tion draft.
ADDRESS ALL COMMUNICATIONS TO HUGHES & STOUEY, ST. LOUIS, MO.

.

French bias basque with two under-arm pieces can be used for ladies of medium size, but is usually preferred
for larger forms.
Fig. 2 is therefore drafted to the same measures as in instruction drafts, except that the scye is 11, bust A.4-., waist
31, chest 15, width of back 13, length of front 20 /.,
1
under-arm is 8, and shoulder 5^.
PARISIAN DARTLESS BASQUE.

Fig. 3.
Is made the same as instruction draft, with the following exceptions :
1. Make dot A )\ inch less than the size

of front dart from dot 34.
2. Make dot B ){ inch more than the size

of back dart from dot 28.
3. Draw dotted line C from dot 20 to dot B

4. Make dot D in the center of line C.
5. Draw line E with sleeve curve (turn
system over), place point S at dot 20 and draw
line E to dot D, then place point S at dot B and
continue line E to dot B.
<3. Make dot F the height of first dart

measure above dot 34 on line 1.
7. Place point S at dot A and draw line G

to dot F, then shape the front as illustrated by
dotted lines in Fig. 3 with dart curve.
8. Make dot I on line G the height of front
dart measure below dot F.
9. Make dot J on line E the under arm
measure below dot 20.
10. Shape waist line with dart curve as

shown in Fig. 3.
11. Draw dotted line K square from dot A

six inches long.
12. Make dot L y? inch from end of line K.

13. Draw line M from dot I to dot L
straight.
14. Draw dotted line N ."> inches long from

dot B square with line 27.
15. Make dot O 1% inches from end of
line N.
l(i. Draw line P from dot J across dot O,
point F at dot J.
Lower part of basque is shaped as illustrated

by dotted lines Q and R.
DOUBLE BREASTED
COAT.
Fig. 3.
All outside garments, Cloaks, Mantles, Ulsters.

Waterproofs, etc., should be made one inch
larger (in neck, bust, waist, hip, arms-eye, elbow and hand) than for plain basques.
For double breasted garments draw dotted line S 2 inches outside of line 1 as illustrated in Fig. 3.

DARTLESS COAT-TIGHT FITTING.
Fig. 3.
Extend skirt lines of basque from 9 to 18 inches long as illustrated by dotted lines in Fig. 3.
Lapel and collar is made the same as inFig. 25.
DARTLESS HALF FITTING COAT.

Fig. 3.
Is made the same as dartless coat with the following exceptions : Omit lines G and M, use line 1 for center of
front as shown in Fig. 3.
DARTLESS THREE-QUARTER COAT.

Fig. 3.
Is made the same as dartless half fitting coat with the following exceptions : Use dotted line S the same as for
double breasted coat instead of line 1 as illustrated in Fig. 3.
BLAZER.
Fig. 3.
Make same as dartless coat. Skirt in front can be made square or cutaway
asshown by dotted lines T and U. This garment is buttoned only at the bust.
Shawl collar can be added as in Fig. 3 instead of lapel and collar if preferred.
BACK FOR COAT OR JACKET.

Fig. 4.
Draft the same as in instruction draft with the following exceptions : The
skirt lines are made from 9 to 18 inches long or length desired for coat skirt, as
shown in Fig. 4.
THE FRENCH BACK.

Fig. 5.
Is drafted the same as the instruction drafts, with the following exceptions : 1st. Make dot A 3/£ inch inside of

dot 11. 2nd. French back can be drafted with a dart by drawing back side-form lines the same as instruction draft
and leaving out the part above the junction of lines 26 and 27 and the lines below dot 23 as shown by dotted lines in
Fig. 5.
HOW TO DRAFT BACK IN SIX PIECES.

Fig. 6.
Draft the same as in instruction draft, with the following exceptions :
1. Make dot B y2 inch from dot 9. 5. Make a y

2 inch dart in center of arm-hole.
2. Make dot C 1% inches from dot B. 6. Draw side-form lines and darts shaping them with
3. Make dot Dy 2 inch from dot C. dart curve according to taste.
4. Make l
a /> inch dart in center of shoulder. 7. Draw skirt lines as illustrated in Fig. 6.
FULL DRESS SLEEVE.

Fig. 7.
1. Make dot G 1 inch from dot 3.
2. Draw line H from dot G to center of line 27

(use dart curve).
3. Make dot I 2 inches outside of dot 11.
4. Draw line J from dot I to center of line 25

(use dart curve).
5. Draw line K from dot I to dot G straight.
6. Make dot L in center of line K.
7. Draw line M from dot L square with line K.
8. Make dot N 3)4 inches from line 7.
9. Draw line O, shaping it as illustrated by
dotted lines in Fig. 7.
ONE SEAM SLEEVE.

Fig. 7.
One seam sleeve is most comfortable sleeves worn and for sleeves made from
one of the light fabrics, it is one
of the very best because there are no seams to show through the goods when ironed.
1. Trace out the upper part of sleeve.
2. Trace out the under-arm part of sleeve on drafting paper and cut it out on the tracing lines.

:i.Cut the under-arm piece in two at elbow on line 15, then place the upper part of under-arm piece so that it
will join the upper at elbow and arms-eye, and trace lines A, B and C as shown in Fig. 7.
4. Join the lower part of under-arm piece as illustrated by dotted lines, then trace lines D and E and trace
straight line F from end of line E to elbow at dot 19.
15. The space between line F and line C is cut out as a dart, allowing small seams.
BISHOP SLEEVE.
Fig. 8.
Make plain sleeve drafting.

Extend line 15 as illustrated in Fig. 8.
Trace out the under-arm piece on drafting paper and cut it out on tracing lines.
Place the elbow of under-arm piece on line 15 from 3 to 5 inches from dot 19.
Draw line A shaping it so that it will be about 2 inches above dot 8 as illustrated in Fig. 8.
6 For cuff trace line F from B to C and from D to E making the cuff any length desired from the hand (allow-
ing seams)
7. For the upper part of sleeve trace line F from B to E and the remainder of outside lines of sleeves allowing
seams.
For draped sleeve allow about 1% inches on upper part below line F.
SHIRT SLEEVE.
Fig. 8.
Draft same as Bishop Sleeve with the following exceptions as shown in Fig. 8.
1. Trace straight line G from dot 3 across dot 16 the same distance from dot 3 that dot 6 is from dot 3.
2. Trace straight line H from dot I across dot J the same length as line G.
3. Draw line K from end of line G to end of line H, use dart curve.
4. In cutting out shirt sleeve place line H parallel with straight edge of goods.
ADDRESS ALL, COMMUNICATIONS TO HUGHES & STOREY, ST. LOUIS, MO.

BELL SLEEVE.
Fig. 9.
The dotted lines A, B, in Fig. 9 illustrate clearly how to draw Bell Sleeve.
FULL DRESS BELL SLEEVE.

Fig. 9.
Is made the same as the Bell Sleeve in Fig. 9 with the exception that the upper part is drafted the same as in
the Full Dress Sleeve in Fig. 7.
THE LADIES' FAVORITE

SLEEVE.
Fig. 9.
Draft same as in instruction draft, with the following
exceptions :
1. Make dot A 1 inch inside of dot 8.
2. Make dot B 1 inch outside of dot 8.
3. Make dot C ^ inch less than y2 of arms-eye

measure from dot 4 on line 9.
4. Make dot D 4^4 inches from dot C.
5. Make dot E 2 inches from dot 2.
G. Make dot F lyi inches inside of dot 17.
7. Make dot G l
l /> inches outside of dot 17.
8. Make dot H/ J
2 of hand measure from dot 5
on line 20.
9. Draw line 23 from dot 6 across dot H.
10. Make dot I on line 23 1 inch outside of
dot H.
11. Make dot Jon line 23 1% inches inside of
dot H and draft the remainder of the sleeve in the
same manner as in instruction draft.
TIGHT FITTING SLEEVE. Fig. 9.

Cut out one piece with two seams from elbow to wrist.
in
The simplest and easiest way to make this sleeve is as follows :
1. Make sleeve same as in instruction draft, or the same as the Ladies' Favorite in Fig. 9.
2. Fold the lining double and trace out the upper part of sleeve except line 25.
3. Trace out the under part of sleeve on drafting paper and cut it out on the tracing lines, place this pattern as
shown in Fig. 9 so that the points at arms-eye and elbow will meet, then trace lines 28, 23 and 29, and cut out sleeve
allowing small seams everywhere.

FRENCH TIGHT FITTING SLEEVE.

Fig. lO.
Is drafted the same as in instruction draft, with the following exceptions
1. Make dot 16 2 inches from dot 2 instead of 1^ inches as in

instruction draft.
2. Make dot A 3 inches more than y

2 of arms-eye measure from
dot 3.
3. Make dot B )>{ of arms-eye measure from dot A.

4. Make dot C }{ of arms-eye measure from dot 3.
5. Make dot 22 /z of 2 hand measure from dot 6 on line 20 and

draw line 23 to it.
(i. Make dot 24 in center of line 23.
7. Lines 25, 26, 27, 28, 2D and 30 are drawn perfectly straight.
8. The lines at elbow should be slightly rounded with arm curve,

as seen in Fig. 10.
THE COAT SLEEVE.

Fig. 11.
Is drafted same as in istruction draft, with the following exceptions :
1. Make dot A }i inch inside of dot 17.
2. Make dot B y2 inch outside of dot 17.
3. Make dot C on line 20 J4 inch more than )/> of hand measure

from dot 6.
4. Make dot D 1 inch from dot C on line 23, then draw the
remaining lines same as in instruction draft.
ADDRESS ALL, COMMUNICATIONS TO IJUOHES & STOREY, ST. LOUIS, MO.
\i
THE WORTH SKIRT.

Fig. 12.
1. Draw line A the front skirt measure as shown in Fig. 12.
2. Draw line B square with top of line A.

3. Make dot C }( of waist measure from top of line A.
4. Make dot D 1 inch from dot C.
5. Make a 1-inch dart 2 inches from top of line A 3 inches in length.
6. Make dot E 2j4 inches from dot C.

7. Draw line F square with line B from dot E.
line F from dot E.
8. Measure from the waist to the knee and make dot G the amount of this measure on
9. Draw line H straight from dot C to dot G.
10. Draw line I from dot D to line H with dart curve.
waist measure at dot E and make dot J 2 inches less than % of hip measure
from dot E.
11. Place ]/
A of
12. Make dot K 2 inches from dot J.
;
13. Make dot L 1 inch from dot E.

14. Draw line M from dot L to line F with dart curve.
15. Draw line N square with line B from dot J 6 inches long.
16. Draw line O from dot K to end of line N with dart curve.
?3
17. Draw line P straight from end of line O the length of skirt from dot K to a point from 27 to 80 inches from
end of line A.
18. Draw linefrom end of line A to end of line P.
Q
19. Place ' '
4 measure less 2 inches at dot E and make dot R 1 inch less than
of waist /2 waist.
l
20. Measure the space from dot R to dot K and you have the size of the dart, Place this dart 2 inches
from dot E.
BELL SKIRT.
Fig. 13.
1. Draw line A 1 inch

more than length of skirt
measure as shown in Fig.
13.
2. Make dot B 1 inch
from top of line A.
3. Draw line C square
from top of line A.
i. Make dot D 2 inches
less than % of hip meas-
ure from top of line A.
Make dot E 1 inch
5.
lessthan }4 of waist meas-

ure from top of line A.
6. Draw line F from dot
B to dot D straight.
7. Measure the distance
from dot E to dot D and
you have the amount for
darts. If the amount is 7
inches or more there should

be five darts. If the amount
is less than 7 inches take it
out in three or four darts,

dividing the darts so that
the largest dart will come
directly over the hip.
8. Draw line G square
with line C from dot D
the same length as line A
and draw line H from end
of line A to end of line G.
9. Make dot I 9 inches
from dot D on line C.
10. Extend line G 12 inches above dot D.

11. Draw line J from the end of line G across dot I to bottom of skirt.
12. Sweep line K (with tape line) from dot D to line J, using top of line G as a pivot.
13. Sweep line L from end of line G to line J, using top or line G as a pivot.
•Train can be added as illustrated by dotted lines.
When hips are very large and the side skirt measure is longer than front and back measure then waist line should
be made as illustrated by dotted lines. When this is necessary the waist line is dropped from to 1 inch in front and ^
back and rounded up over the hip.
FAN BACK SKIRT.

Fig. 13.
Is made the same as bell skirt except that lines K and L are extended 6 inches outside of line J and a new line
J drawn across the ends of line K and L (more or less can be added according to the number or size of plaits or full-
ness wanted) as shown in Fig. 13.

PLAIN ROUND
Fig. 13.
SKIRT.
Is made the same as the bell skirt exeept that lines C and H are extended 12 inches outside of line G as illus-
trated by dotted lines M, N and O in Fig. 13.
UMBRELLA SKIRT.
Fig. 13.
Is made the same as bell skirt in Fig. 13 with the exceptions that more fullness is usually added in the center of
the back both at waist and bottom of skirt.
SEVEN GORED SKIRT.

Fig. 14.
1. Draw line A the length of skirt, as shown in Fig. 14. 12. Draw line L square with line K from dot J.
2. Make dot B inches from top of line A.
l> 13. Make dot M }% of hip measure from dot J on line L.
8. Draw line C square with line A from dot B. 14. Draw line N, same as line E, across dot M to a
4. Make dot D J a of hip measure from dot B on line C. point 15 inches from end of line K.
o. Draw line E the length of skirt across dot D from 15. Draw O, or waist line with dart curve, across
line
a point 6 inches above dot D to a point 9 inches from lower the ends of lines A, E, H, K and N.
end of line A. 16. Make dot P on line O the waist measure in half
6. Draw line F square with line E from dot D. inch figures from end of line A.
7. Make dot G }& of hip measure from dot D on line F. 17. Measure the distance from dot P to end of line N,
8. Draw H, same as line E, across dot G to a
line and you have the amount for darts.
point 11 inches from the lower end of line E. 18. Take out the amount for darts from end of lines E
9. Draw line I square with line H from dot G. and Hover largest part of the hip.
10. Make dot J }$ of hip measure from dot G on line 1. 19. Shape the bottom of skirt, giving it a slight curve
11. Draw line K, same as line E, across dot J to a as illustrated in Fig. 14, and fullness at waist can be added
point 13 inches from end of line H. as shown by dotted lines.
ADDRESS AXIi COMMUNICATIONS TO HUGHES & STOREY, ST. LOUIS, MO.

.
THE STANDING COLLAR.

Fig. 15.
1. Draw lines A and B square with each
other as in Fig. 15.
2. Make dot C 1 inch more than half
of neck measure from end of line B.
3. Draw line D from dot C perfectly
square with line A.
4. Make dot E the neck measure from
dot C on line D.
o. Sweep line F from dot C to line B,
using dot E as a pivot.

(>. Draw line G from dot E to end of
line F.
7. Make dot H 2^ inches from dot C
on line D or the desired width of collar.
8. Sweep line J from dot H to line G,
using dot E as a pivot.
The above instructions give one half of

the plain round collar.
POINTED COLLAR.
Fig. 15.
Extend line D and make dot K
1.
/
'6 l
2
inches above dot C as given in Fig. 15.

2. Make dot L one inch from dot K.
3. Draw line M from dot L to a point half way between dot C and dot H on line D.
4. Extend line G and make dot N '3}4 inches from end of line F.
5. Draw line O from junctions of lines F and G to dot C.
6. Make dot P in center of line O.
7. Draw with arm curve, point D on System at dot P to dot N.
line Q
8. Turn system over and draw line R from dot P to dot L in the same manner as line Q.
The above instructions give one half of collar.
ROLL COLLAR.
Fig. 16.
1. Draw lines A
and B square 6. Make dot G on line E half
with each other as shown in Fig. way between dots D and E.
dot H on line E one-
16.
7. Make
2. Make dot C on line B one- half of neck measure from dot G
half of neck measure from end
8. Draw line I from dot F to
of line A.
dot C.
3. Make dot D on line A one-
half of neck measure from end 9. Sweep line J from dot C
of line B.
to dot D, using dot F as a pivot.
4. Draw line E from dot D 10. Sweep line K from dot G

square with line A. to line I, using dot H as a pivot.
5. Make dot F on line E one- The above instructions give

half of neck measure from dot D. one-half of collar.
Another very pretty style of collar can be made as illustrated by dotted lines in Fig. 16.
1. Make dot L on line B 3 inches above dot C. 3. Draw line N from dot D to dot L (place point E
2. Draw line M straight from dot G to end of line K. at dot D turn System over).
4. Draw line O from end of line M to dot L.
ADDRESS AL.L COMMUNICATIONS TO HUGHES & STOREY, ST. LOUIS, MO.
16
TURN DOWN COLLAR.

Fig. 17.
1. Draw lines A and B square with
each other as in Fig, 17.
2. Make dot C y± inch more than

half of neck measure from end of
line B.
3. Make dot D inches from

end of line A.
i. Make dot E four inches from

dot D on line B (or the desired width
of collar).
5. Draw line F square with line A

from dot C.
6. Make dot G the width of collar from dot C online F. 9. Draw line J from dot E to dot G point F on Sys-
7. Make dot H 1}4 inches from dot G on line F. tern at dot G (turn system over).
8. Draw line I from dot E to dot H. 10. Draw line K same as line J from dot C to dot D.
This gives half of the collar, the remaining half can be drafted in thesame manner.
COLLAR AND LAPEL TOGETHER.

Fig. 17,
This collar is made as illustrated by dotted lines in Fig. 17. Extend the point of collar from 3 to 5 inches from
dot E or length desired.
SHAWL COLLAR. Fig. 3.

Shawl collar can be worn on this basque, or any other style of waist if desired, but it is usually worn on ladies' coats or
outside garments. It is drafted as follows, as shown in Fig. 3 :
1. Continue line 1 6 inches above line 6. <j. Make dot E 3 inches from dot D ( or the width
2. Draw line A from top of line 1 to dot 8. desired).
3. Make dot B 2 inches from dot 8 on line A. 7. Draw line G with neck curve from dot B to dot D.
4. Make dot C 3}4 inches (or the width desired for 8. Make dot H 3J^ inches from center of line G to a
collar ), from dot B. point half way between dots C and E.
5. Make dot D \y2 inches from dot 8 on line 6. 9. Draw line I with dart curve (turn System over),
touching dots H, E and F.
10. Continue line I to dot C (use arm curve).
11. Make dot J 2 inches from dot 3 on line 15.
12. Draw line K from dot J to dot D ( using sleeve curve ), point T at dot J.
13. Draw line L same as line K (turn System over). •
The space between lines K and L is sewed up as a dart, and the collar is turned back over it.
GIRDJ.E.
Fig. 18.
1. Draw line A and B 2 inches apart parallel with each other y^ inch more than y2 of
waist measure, as shown in Fig. 18.
2. Draw lines C and D 6 inches in length across ends of lines A and B to a point 2
inches above line A.
3. Shape lines E, F, G and H with arm curve, according to taste.
Make dot I ^ inch from line C.
Shape line J with dart curve from one end of line C to the other, across dot I.
Make dot K ^ inch from center of line D.

Shape line E with dart curve from one end of line D to the other, across dot K.
Another style of pointed girdle can be drafted as illustrated by dotted lines in Fig. 18.
17
THE PRINCESS.
Fig. 19.
1. It is drafted the same as plain basque.

2. In tracing trace the front same as plain basque,
continuing line 1 the length of skirt.
3. Trace darts to a point from 5 to 6 inches below
the waist. When darts are very large and drawn from
5 to (3 inches below the waist it will cause a fullness in
the front, to avoid this make the darts from y2 to 1 inch
smaller and take the same amount off of the waist line in
front and under the arm as illustrated in Fig. 19.
4. Move underarm piece over from 2 to 2*4 inches
forunder-arm dart and trace the under-arm piece con-
tinuing line 59 the length of skirt to a point from 27 to
30 inches from end of line 1 for all medium sizes.
For extremely large figures more fullness can be given as
desired.
The under-arm dart should be from 5 to 6 inches in

length below the waist. Some cutters prefer to take a
measure from the waist line under the arm to point of
hip or the length they wish to make the dart. And
then place the underarm piece so that this dart will be
the length of the measure taken below the waist.
If less fullness is wanted in bottom of skirt dotted
line E can be used instead of line 59.
BACK OF PRINCESS.
Fig. 20.
1. Draft back same as plain basque.
2. Trace back same as plain basque.
3. Move side body over as shown in Fig. 20 about
\]4 inches so as to allow for seams.
4. Trace dart between back and side body to a
point from 5 to 6 inches below the waist.
5. Continue line 35 the length of skirt, this line
should be drawn straight from dot 29 parallel with line
1 the length of skirt.
6. Make dot A 2 inches below dot 8.

7. Draw line B from dot A square with line 1.
8. Make dot C on line B 12 inches from dot A, or
according to fullness desired.
9. Draw line D from dot C square with line B to
bottom of skirt.
10. Draw line E from end of line 35 to end of line D.
PRINCESS CORSAGE WITH BELL BACK.

Figs. 19 and 20.
Can be made as illustrated in Fig. 19 below dotted lines A and B in front of Princess, and in Fig. 20 below dotted
lines C and D, in Bell Back Princess line 35 in the back draft joins dotted line E in front draft.
18
PRINCESS WITH BELL BACK,

Fig. 20.
Is drafted same as Fig. 20, with the exceptions illustrated by dotted lines.
1. Continue line 1 to bottom of skirt. 5. Sweep line I from dot A to line H, using dot G
2. Make dot F 9 inches from dot A on line B. as a pivot.
3. Make dot G 12 inches above dot A on line I. 6 Sweep ij ne J from end of line I to line H, using
4. Draw line H from dot G across dot F to bottom of
(j ot q as a p j V ot
skirt perfectly straight.
19
1
HOW TO TRACE OUT THE PRINCESS.

Fig. 21.
K. ,
V1
Fig. 2
4
•
m
•
• 8
1. Make drafting according to style of Princess wanted.
2. Trace out the front underarm piece, side body and back on paper, and cut out the different pieces so as to
obtain a pattern, then place the pattern on the lining and trace it as illustrated in Fig. 21.

SEAMLESS DRESS.
Consisting of Seamless Waist, Seamless Skirt and Seamless Sleeve.
This garment is remarkable because of the nov-

elty ofbeing seamless, and can be made up so as to
appear very beautiful.
The waist is drafted same as Fig. 24. The skirt
is drafted same as Fig. 13, and then, instead of
making one seam, button or lace the skirt down

the side.
The sleeve is made the same as One-Seam Sleeve

in Fig, 7, and laced down the inside.
DARTLESS PRINCESS.
Fig. 22.
Is cut so as to remove the difficulty of having

darts in the front, as shown in Fig. 22.
1. Make drafting same as for the Parisian Dart-

less Basque.
2. Trace out front, under-arm piece, side form

and back on paper, and cut out the different pieces so
as to obtain a pattern, then place the pattern on the
liningand trace it as illustrated in Fig. 21. If the
goods is narrow, put a seam in the skirt between the
under-arm piece and side body, as illustrated by
dotted lins A.
DARTLESS DRAPED PRINCESS.

Fig. 22.
1. Extend line N to a point 5>4 inches below dot B, as shown in Fig. 22.
2. Draw line C from the end, and square with line N, 5j4 inches long.
3. Draw line D from dot B to end of line C (with dart curve).
The space on line D from dot B to end of line C is plaited on line 61 F for draping, line D, is usually drawn
straight down from end of line C to the bottom of skirt. When draping is wanted on one side only, the front can be cut
draped up over the lower
basque shape on the same side of the draping as illustrated by dotted line E, and the skirt
part of basque.

SEAMLESS PRINCESS.
Fig. 23.
Is so called because the fronts under-arm piece,
side-body and back are all cut in one piece as illus-
trated in Fig. 21 and it opens under the arm and on

the shoulder, or in the center of back.
1. The back draffis made same as plain Prin-
cess. For slender forms the French Back, same
as Fig. 5 can be used.
2. The front draft is made the same as
French bias basque to the waist line.
3. The front darts are made on line A and
the same size as for plain basque.
4. Make dot B the same distance from dot
28 that line 1 is from dot 34.
5. Draw line C same as line F in the dartless
basque.
6. In tracing out the front, fold the lining
double and place line 9 on edge of fold and trace
out the front.
7. Trace out under-arm, side-form and back
pieces same as for plain Princess.
In cutting this garment place the pattern on
"
the lining and trace it as illustrated in Fig. 21

making the darts come to a point about 6 inches
below the waist line.
THE LADIES' TAILOR

SEAMLESS WAIST. Fig. 24.
1. Draft the front part of the waist the same
as instruction draft leaving out the darts and under-
arm line.
2. Below the draft draw a straight line as in

Fig. 24.
3. Make dot A at the beginning of the line,
and dot B at width of back measure from dot A in

half inch figures.
4. Make dot C at waist measure in waist fig-
ures from dot A.
5. Make dot D1J( inches from dot C.
Measure the distance from dot A to dot D
6.
and place the amount of this measure on System at

dot 5 and make dot 32 at waist measure in half inch
figures on line 27.
7. Measure the space between dots 32 and 10 and 11. Draw line K square with line H from junctions of
make dot E }£ inch more than }4 of this space from dot 19 line 15 and G.
and make dot F ^ inch less than y? of this space from 12. Make dot L the width of back measures on line K
dot 34. in half inch figures from the junction of lines H
and 15.
8. Draw line G straight from dot 23 across dot E. 13. Place length of back measure of long arm of Sys-
9.Measure the space between dots D and B and tem at dot J and draw line across dot M L the length of
place this amount on short arm of System on line G, at the back measure.
same time place the under-arm measure on long arm of 14. Make dots and lines 13, 15, 16, 18
2, 3, 14, 17, 19,
System at the junctions of line 15 and G as illustrated then and 24 same as This part is drafted
in instruction draft.
draw lines H and I. same as plain basque, except the lines are drawn toward
10. Make dot J on line I the width of back measure you instead of from you and line 24 is drawn with System
from line H in half inch figures. turned face down, then draw line 24.
ADDRESS ALL. COMMUNICATIONS TO HUGHES & STOREY, ST. LOUIS, MO.

THE LADIES* TAILOR SYSTEM.
15. Make dot N the heighth of dart measure above 18. Extend line M % inch below dot J in center of
dot 34. back at the waist line.
16. Place point S on System at dot F and draw line 19. Shape waist line (lineP) with dart curve as illus-
O to dot N. trated by dotted lines.
17. Curve the front slightly at dots 3 and N with dart 20. This waist can be made pointed in back and front
curve. as shown by dotted lines.
The proper make-up of this garment is very important, because the entire front, both of lining and outside
material cut on the bias, and stretches easily.
is The goods in front, from a point about 1 inch below dot to a point N
about 2 inches above dot 3, should be held full, and from a point below dot N
to waist line, should be stretched from ^
to Y? inch, and then stayed with a tape from the waist line to neck, to prevent drawing out of shape. Whalebone casing
should be stitched onto the lining before it is basted to the goods. This waist is usually made to lace down the front.

THE RIDING HABIT.

Fig. 25.
The measure for outside garments are

taken the same as for ladies' basque and then
one inch added to the neck, bust, waist,
is
hip, arms-eye, elbow and hand measures.

1. Draft the front same as in instruction
draft.
Extend
2. line 15 and make dot 5 the
bust measure in half inch figures.
3. Draw line 1 of back draft square with
line 15 from dot 5 and make dot 4 the under-
arm measure below line 15.
4. Make dot 2 the length of back meas-
ure above dot 4.
5. Make the remainder of back part of
drafting the same as in instruction draft and
as illustrated in Fig. 25. To do this all the
curved lines are drawn with the system turned
face downward.
6.Shape the bottom of habit as illus-
trated by dotted lines A, A, A, A, A, A.
When one dart is used much trouble is often
caused by not putting it in the correct place.
It should be made in the center between the
points where the darts would ordinarily come

for all medium or slender forms. When bust
measure is large it should be set one half inch
back of the center, place the dart in this po-
sition and you will remove the cloth at the
right place.
THE LAPEL AND

COLLAR.
Fig. 25.
Lapel and collar is drafted as shown in
Fig. 25.
1. Make dot A % inch from neck curve
on line 9.
2. Draw line B from dot A to neck curve.
3. Draw line C from dot A 2 inches long or length 9. Draw line J square with line H.
and slope desired. 10. Make dot K y± inch from end of line H.
4. Draw line D
from the end of line C to dot 62. 11. Made dot L 1^ inches from end of line H (or
5. Make dot E ^ inch from dot 8. the width of collar).
6. Make dot F %
inch from dot 8 on shoulder line. 12. Draw line M with dart curve from dot K to junc-
7. Draw line G from dot E to any point on front tion of lines 10 and 14.
that gives the desired length of lapel. 13. Draw line N \y2 inches from dot A, any slope
8. Draw line H from junction of lines G and neck desired.
curve across dot F to a point ]/2 inch more than the length 14. Draw line O from dot L to end of line N (straight
of line 15 in back. or slightly curved).
24
BACK OF RIDING26.HABIT SKIRT.
Fig.
1.
37. Point E at dot 33.

38. Point G at dot 34.
39. Point T at dot 12.
40. Point F at dot 12.
41. Is same distance from dot
the 12 that dot 8 is.
42. Is the same distance from dot 31 that dot 26 is.
43. Curved line.

44. Point E at dot 14.
45. Point O
at dot 14.
46. Point F at dot 17.
47. Zyi inches from dot 20.
48. 9% inches from dot 47.
49. 3^ inches from dot 48.
50. 4 inches from dot 48.
51. Straight line.
52. 2}4 inches from dot 50.

53. Straight line.
54. 9 inches from dot 52.
55. Straight line.
FRONT OF RIDING HABIT SKIRT.

Fig. 27.
1. Straight line.
2.
$Y inches from
top of line 1.
3. 11^ inches from

top of line 1.
4. Front skirt meas-

ure.
5. Straight line.
6. y^ of waist from
line 1 always.
7. ]^ of waist from
dot 6 always.
8. ]4> of waist from
dot 7 always.
9. Straight line.
H). 2 inches from
dot 6.
11. Straight line.

12. 1 inch from
dot 8.
13. y waist from

dot 8.
14. Straight line.
15. 1 inch from

dot 12.
16. Point Q at dot 7.
17. Neck curve.

18. Point Eat dot 15.
19. Straight line.

20. 4 inches from
dot 13.
21. 14 inches from dot 13. 43. 2 inches from dot 37. darts, making it the same length of
22. 15 Yi, inches from dot 13. 44. Straight line from dot 28 to line in back from dot 6 to dot 56,
23. Straight line. dot 31. following curved lines, then from dot
24. \y2 inches from dot 20. 45. Straight line from dot 28 to 54 down line 59 to line 66, these two
25. Point E at dot 13. dot 43. lines sew together.
26. Straight line. 46. Straight line from dot 33 to 61. Straight line.
27. 3 inches from dot 21. dot 37. 62. 22 inches from dot 4*
28. 7^ inches from dot 21. 47. Straight line. 63. Straight line from dot 62 to
29. Straight line. 48. 1 inch from dot 38. dot 60l
30. ZYx inches from dot 22. 49. Point D at dot 48. 64. Make a dot in centre of line 63.
31. 4^ inches from dot 22. 50. 3^ inches from dot 33. 65. Straight line.
32. d% inches from dot 22. 51. Straight line. 66. 3 inchesfrom dot 64.
.'S3. 9 inches from dot 22. 52. 2'/( inches from dot 39. 67. Curve line from dot 60 across
34. Point E at dot 24. 53. Straight line. dot 66 to dot 62.
35. Point F at dot 31. 54 1}4 inches from dot 40. 68. Straight line.
36. Straight line. 55. Straight line. 69. \% inches from dot 2.
37. 2%
inches from dot 32. 56. 6 inches from dot 41. 70. Point E at dot 10.
38. 4)4 inches from dot 32. 57. Point D at dot 52. 71. Point F at dot 69.
39. 9 inches from dot 32. 58. Point E at dot 52.
Dots 37 and 50 sews together in
40. Uj4 inches from dot 32. 59. Straight line from dot 54 across
a dart.
41. 13 inches from dot 32. dot 56.
Dots 43 and 31 sews together in
42. Straight line from dot 37 to 60. 31^ inches from dot 13 follow-
a dart.
dot 30. ing curved lines and leaving out the
26
FRONT OF RIDING HABIT TROUSERS.
Fig. 28.
(Measures for trousers. Waist 24, hip 40,

outside length 40). Is drafted as follows :
1. Draw line A straight.

2. Make dot B outside length from top of
line A.
3. Make dot C 1 inch more than % of hip
measure from top of line A.
4. Make dot D half way between dots C
and B.
5. Draw line E square with line A.
6. Make dot F % of hip measure from top
of line A.
7. Make dot G \y2 inches more than %
of waist measure from dot F.
8. Draw line H from dot G to dot C with
arm curve.
9. Make a dart 1 inch in size 4 inches
long half way between dots F and G also />
x
inch dart inside of dot F.

10. Draw lines I,
J and K square with
line A.
11. Make dot L V,
y4 of hip measure from
dot B.
12. Draw line M straight from dot F to
dot L.
13. Make dot N 2*4 inches outside of
line M.
14. Draw line O with arm curve.
15. Make dot P 1 inch inside of dot L.
16. Make dot Q 6 inches from dot P.
17. Draw line R from dot C to dot Q slightly
curved at top.
18. Draw line S from dot N to dot P slighly
curved at top.
BACK OF RIDING HABIT TROUSERS.

29. Fig.
1. Draw line A. 17. Make dot S 4 inches from dot B.
2. Make dot B 2 inches from top of line A. 18. Make dot T }4 inch inside of dot E.
r>. Make dot C the outside length from dot B. 19. Draw line U from dot C across dot T to a point 1
4. Make dot D % of hip measure from dot B. inch above dot S, slightly curved.
o. Make dot E half way between dots C and D.
0. Draw line F square from line A. 20. Draw line V from end of line U across end of line A.
7. Make dot G }( of hip measure from dot B. 21. Make dot W 2 inches more than }( of waist
8. Draw lines H, I and J square from line A. measure.

9. Make dot K ^ of hip measure from dot C. 22. Draw line X from dot W to dot N, slightly curved.
10. Draw line L straight from dot G to K. W and end U
Make a dart half way between dot of line
11. Make dot M 3 inches outside of line L.
2 inches in size and 5 inches long.
12. Make dot N half way between dot G and line H.
13. Draw line O from dot M to dot N with arm curve. Dotted line Y represents flap and opening on the side 8
14. Make dot P 1 inch outside of dot K. inches long. Some prefer the space above dotted line Z in
15. Make dot Q )4 inch outside of line L. Fig. 29 and dotted line T in Fig. 28 made of lining only,
16. Draw line R from dot M across dot Q to dot P while others prefer both lining and outside material.
slightly curved.
27
LADIES' WALKING JACKET.
Fig. 25.
Continue skirt lines of habit, as shown in figure 25, from 9 to 12 inches, or length desired for jacket.
THE LADIES' DOUBLE BREASTED PRINCE ALBERT COAT.

Fig. :jo.
The drafting for this coat is made the

same as figure 25, with the following
exceptions shown in figure 30 :
1. Make dot A \)l inches more than

width of back measure in yi inch figures
from line 12.
2. Make dot B 1 '^ inches more than
waist measure in waist figures from dot 4.
3. Make dot C
from dot B. 2 inches
4. Lines 2(i ami 27 can be drawn
with side form curve or shaped accord-
ing to taste of the cutter, and the space
between dots 9 and 10 should be 1 inch.
5. Draw lines D and E with dart
curve, shaping them as illustrated in
figure 30.
6. Make dot F on waist line J4 inch
inside of line 1.
7. Extend waist line and make dot

G 2}4 inches from line
'
I.
8. Make dot H % inch outside of

line I.
9. Draw line I from dot F the same

as line 63 in front drafting.
10. Draw line J from dot H the same
as line I (turn system over).
11. Draw line K }{ inch outside and
parallel with line 1 from the neck }0
dot (!2.
12. Make dot L 2 inches outside of

dot 62.
18. Draw line M any slope desired.
14. Draw line N from line M across
dots L and G straight down to length
of skirt.
15. Make a dart between dots F and
H to a point 4 inches below the waist.
NEW MARKET. Fig. 31.

Draft same as figure 25, with the following exceptions :
1. Make French back same as figure 5. 4. Make skirt lines the full length of dress skirt
2. Make front dart 2 inches in size 2}4 inches from measure.
line 1. 5. Lapel and collar can be made same as figure 25, or
3. Make under-arm dart 1 inch in size. can be cut with shawl collar as shown in figure 3.
ULSTER.
Fig. 31.
It is made the same as the Newmarket in figure 31, with the following exception :
The front dart is omitted in figure 31.
28
LADIES' BOX COAT.

Fig. 31.
The rules for producing this coat are the same as for a Newmarket, with the following exceptions shown in Fig. 31:
1. The under-arm piece is made same as in

plain drafting.
2. The front is cut full double breasted without
darts, except that lj4 inches is taken off of the front
under the arm the same as in dartless basque.
3. The skirt is only made about 6 inches long.
LADIES' DOLMAN.
Fig. 32.
In this garment the bust measure is not taken as

given in the instruction book; but is taken over the
fullest part of the bust outside the arms. It should
be taken as you wish the garment to fit. This meas-

ure is taken loosely.
The front and back are drafted the same as for
the Parisian Dartless coat as in Fig. 3 and 4 with
the following exceptions:
1. Make dot A 3 inches from dot 16.
2. Draw dotted line B square with line 15 from

dot A to waist line.
3. Make dot C lj4 inches from line B on line 27.

4. Make dot D 1J4 inches from line 1 on line 35.
5. Make dot E the bust measure from dot 3 in
•half inch figures.
6. Make dot F the width of back measure in
half inch figures from line 12.
7. Make dot G iy2 inches from line 12 on line 27.
8. Place point F on System at dot 19 and draw
line H to dot G.
9. Draw dotted line I across dot 1(3 parallel
with line I.
10. Make dot J on line I 3 inches above dot 16.

11. Draw dotted line K 2% inches long square
from dot F.
12. Draw line L from dot J to end of line K.
13. Make dot M in centre of line L.
14. Draw line N square with line L the same length 18. Draw line R the same as line Q to a point 3 inches
above dot Mthat dot J is from dot M, shaping line Y as above waist line.
illustrated in Fig. 32 or sweep with tape using dot M 19. Draw line S 5 inches long parallel with line 1
as a pivot. from end of line Q.
15. Make dot O on line I half the under-arm meas- 20. Draw line T
from end of line R to end of line S.
ure below dot 16. 21. Draw U from end of line S to a point
dotted line
16. Draw line P from dot 16 to dot O use dart 3 inches below waist line on dotted line I (using dart
curve.
curve).
17. Place point D on System at dot O and draw
dotted line Q to a point j£ inch outside of line 1 and 2 22. Draw line V from dot O to end of line U (use
inches above waist line. dart curve).
24
23. Make dot W 12 inches below dot C on skirt line. Dotted lines S, Q, U and V represent the under part
24. Draw line X from end S to dot W shaping
of line of sleeve. Lines 43, 27, Y, P, R, T, X and bottom lines
it according to taste, shape bottom of skirt lines with dart of skirt represents the upper part of sleeve. Double dotted
curve. lines show where elastic is secured to back and front
26. Draw line Z from dot 2.5 to a point 2 inches under the arm and at waist line.
below dot A.
HIGH SHOULDER CAPE.

Fig. 33.
In this garment the bust measure is not taken as given in instruction book, but it is taken over the fullest part of
the bust, outside the arms. It should be taken as closely as you wish the garment to fit. Shoulder measures for this
cape should be yz inch shorter than for ordinary basque. Front and back as illustrated in Fig. 33 are drawn the same as
instruction draft with the following exceptions :
30
1. Extend line 15 and make dot A the bust measure 6. Draw line F square from dot E and make dot G
from dot 3 in half inch figures. the same distance from dot E that dot C is from dot E.
7. Shape line H from dot C to dot G and from dot B
2. Make dot B 2}4 inches above dot 21.
to dot G as shown in Fig. 33.
3. Make dot C 3 inches above dot 16. Spaces between lines 26 and H and 24 and H
8.
4. Draw line D from dot C to dot B. comes out as a dart. This cape is usually made to a point
5. Make dot E in center of line D. 1 inch below waist line but can be made any length desired.
Rg.33
±4—
j__, H-t
HIGH SHOULDER CAPE WITH YOKE.

Fig. 33.
Draft same as high shoulder cape in Fig. 33 except as illustrated by dotted lines I, J, K, L and M.
1. Lines I and J are drawn 1 inch above and parallel with line 15, 15 inches long or the length wanted for
gathers or plaiting.
J and L
2. Lines are drawn length wanted for cape or circular.
The front above line I makes the front yoke. The back above line K makes the back yoke, if wanted without
seam in center of back place line 1 on fold of goods.
HIGH SHOULDER CAPE WITH TIGHT FRONT.

Fig. 33.
Draft same as high shoulder cape, except as illustrated by dotted lines N, O and P and dart in Fig. 33.
1. Lines N and O are made same basque in Fig. 3.
as for dartless
2. The darts are made from 3 to 5 inches from line N and from 1)4 to2}4 inches in size heighth of dart measure.
3i
RUSSIAN CAPE.
Fig. 33.
Draft same as high shoulder cape with the exceptions illustrated by dotted lines Q, R, S, T, U, V, W, X, Y and
1 in Fig. 33.
1. Width of back piece at waist is usually made 2% inches wide, but can be made any width desired.
2. Lines Q, R and S are shaped with dart curve.
3. Lines T and U are drawn same as in plain basque and any length wanted usually from 12 to 18 inches below
the waist.
In cutting this garment trace lines 18, 15, 1, R, U, V, W and X for back, for front trace 1, 9, 14, 12,26, H, Q, S, T.
and V.
RUSSIAN CIRCULAR.
Fig. 33.
Draft the same as Russian cape in Fig. 33 except that skirt lines are made j^ or full length of skirt.
MILITARY CAPE.
Fig. 34.
1. Draft lines A and B at right angles, and make dot 7. Sweep line I from dot D to dot H with tape line
C y? inch more than neck measure in neck figures on line using dot C as a pivot.
A as shown in Fig. 34.
8. Sweep line J from dot E to line G with tape line
2. Make dot D }4 inch more than neck measure in
using dot C as a pivot.
neck figures from dot C.
3. Make dot E 24 inches from dot D for length of
This cape should be 1 inch longer on the side than in
cape in the back or length desired. the back as shown by line K and front should be made 1
4. dot F y2 inch more than neck measure in
Make inch shorter than back as shown by line G then shape the
neck figures from end of line A on line B. bottom of this cape as illustrated by line L.
o. Draw line G from dot C across dot F. When material is wide enough place line A on fold of
6. Make dot H }4 inch more than neck measure in goods then trace lines I, L and G and you have the cape in
neck figures from dot C on line G. one piece.
i*
BOY'S COAT.
Fig. 35.
Measures are taken same as for ladies' basque, and is
drafted thesame as ladies' basque, with the following ex-
ceptions shown in Fig. 35 :
1. Make dot A the breast measure from dot 3 in half-

inch figures.
2. Make dot B the under-arm measure below dot A.
3. Make dot C ]^ inch inside of dot B.
4. Make dot D 3 inches from dot C.
5. Make dot E ^ inch from dot D.
6. Make dot F the width of back measure from dot A.
7. Draw lines G and H with dart curve.
8. Make skirt for coat as represented in Fig. 35. It is
made about 8 inches long, but can be made any length
desired.
9. If it is desirable to have a coat fit more closely at
the waist, put a dart at waist line, placing it about 3 inches
from dot E, % an inch in width, 5 inches in length, 1*4

of
inches long below the waist, the remainder of dart above
the waist, as illustrated in Fig. 35. The remainder of the
drafting, including the collar, is drafted the same as in
Fig. 25.
This coat is drafted to the following measures : Neck,
11; breast, 26; waist, 24; scye, 8; front, 14^; chest, 10;
width of back, 9; length of back, 12; shoulder, 4; under-

arm, 6; hip, 28; first balance, 11; second balance, 24J4.
BOYS' KNEE PANTS-FRONT.

Fig. 36.
1. Draw line A 1 inch from edge of paper.
2. dot B outside leg measure from top of line A.

dot C inside leg measure above dot B.
line D square from top of line A.
dot E on line D 2 inches more than }( of hip measure.
dot F on line D 2 inches from dot E.
dot G on line D y2 inch less than ^ of waist measure from dot F.
line H square with line D from dot E.
dot I on line H the outside leg measure from dot E.
dot J inside leg measure above dot I.
line K
from dot C to dot J.
dot L2inches from dot J.
line Mfrom dot F to dot L.
dot N on line M 2 inches above dot L.
line O from dot J to dot N. Use arm curve.
line P from dot B to dot I.
dot Q on line P 1 inch from dot B.
dot R on line P )/z of knee measure from dot Q.
line S from dot R to dot J. Use dart curve.
line T from dot Q to dot C. Point T on system at dot Q.
line U from dot C to dot G. Use dart curve.
BOYS' KNEE PANTS-BACK.

Fig. 37.
1. Draw line A 1 inch from edge of paper.
. Make dot B 2 inches more than outside leg measure from top of
line A.
3. Make dot C on line A inches from top of line A.
(>
4. Draw line D square from top of line A.

5. Make dot E \)/2 inches from top of line A.
6. Make dot F 1 inch more than }{ of waist measure from dot E.
7. Make dot G \) 2 inches from dot F.
8. Draw line H square with line D from dot G.
9. Make dot I 2 inches more than outside leg measure from dot G.
10. Draw line J from dot B to dot I.
11. Make dot K \y2 inches inside of dot C.
12. Draw line L from dot E to dot K.
13. Draw line M from dot B to dot K, use dart curve.
14. Make dot N 2 inches from dot B on line M.
15. Make dot O on line J y2 of knee measure from dot N.
It!. Draw line P from dot N to dot O.
17. Make dot Q on line
H the same distance from
dot O that dot J is from
dot R in front drafting.
18. Draw line R from dot
O to dot Q, use dart curve.
19. Make dot S 2 inches
above dot Q on line H.
20. Make dot T \y2
inches inside of dot S.
21. Draw line U from
dot F to dot T.
22. Draw line V from dot Q to dot T, use arm curve.
23. Make a sloping dart /2 inch in width and 4 inches long from
x
waist
line. The dart should be placed about 2 inches from dot E.
BACK OF SHIRT.
Fig. 38.
1. Draw lines A and B at right angles.
2. Make dot C yi of neck measure from top of line A.
3. Make dot D 3 inches from dot C or width desired for yoke.

•J. Make dot E *£ of breast measure from dot C.
5. Make dot F }+ of breast measure from dot E.

6. Make dotG length of shirt from dot C.
Make dot H '< inch more than yi of neck measure from top of
line A
8. Draw lines I,
J, K, L and M square from line A.
9. Make dot N the length of yoke from dot D.
10. Draw line O square from dot N to a point 1 inch above line I and
draw shoulder line to it.
11. Make dot P ]l of breast measure from dot E.

12. Make dot Q 2% inches from dot P.
13. Draw line R square from line K to line J then draw line S with arm
curve.
14. Draw line T square from line K.

15. Make dot U }{ inch inside of line T and shape line V with dart
curve, as illustrated in Fig. 38 dotted lines represent yoke. Line J is
gathered into the yoke.
34
FRONT OF SHIRT.
Fig. 39.
1. Draw lines A and B at right angles. 4. Make dot E^ of breastmeasure from dot D.
2. Make dot C the neck measure in neck figures from 5. Make dot F the same tdistance from dot E that dot G
top of line A. is from dot F in back draft.
3. Make dot D ]/<> of breast measure from top of line A. 6. Make dot G yi of neck measure from top of line A.
7. Make dot H the same distance from dot G that end of line O is
from dot H in back draft.
8. Draw lines I,
J and K square from line A.
0. Make dot L 2^ inches more than '{ of breast measure from
dot D.
10. Draw line M square from dot H to line I then draw line N with
arm curve.
11. Draw line O square from dot L.
12. Make dot P ^ inch inside of line O then shape line Q with
dart curve as illustrated in Fig 39.
SHIRT BOSOM.
Fig. 39.
1. Make dot R 1 inch above dot E.
2. Draw line S 2 inches long from dot R.

3. Make dot T 1 inch from dot G.
4. Draw line U with dart curve from dot T to end of line S.
SHIRTSLEEVE.
Fig. 40.
1. Draw line A length of sleeve less the width of cuff.
2. Draw lines C and B at right angles with line A.
3. Make dot D j^ arms eye measure from end of line A.
4. Draw line E square from dot D and make dot F % of arms-eye

measure from dot D.
5. Draw line G straight from dot F to end of line A.
6. Draw line H with arm curve from dot F to end 8. Draw line Jstraight from dot I to dot F. Cuff
of line A. is made 2 inches wide and any length wanted.
7. Make dot I 6 inches from end of line A.
SHIRT NECK BAND.

Fig. 40.
1. Draw line A and B at right angles. 2. Make dot C A
l
of neck measure from line B.
ADDRESS ALL. COMMUNICATIONS TO HUGHES & STOREY, ST. L.OUIS, MO.
35
3. Draw line D square from dot C X]^ inch long.
4. Make dot E 3 inches from end of line A.
5. Make dot F \y2 inches from dot E.
(j. Draw dotted line G from dot E to end of line D.
7. Draw dotted line H from dot F to dot C.
8.Shape lines I and J with dart curve.
This gives one half of neck band, no seams allowed in making up.
Measures for shirt, neck 15, breast 36, length 34, arms-eye 20, length
of sleeve 24. Arms-eye is taken very loosely.
DRAFTING ON THE LINING.

Inquiry is sometimes made for instructions for drafting on the lining
instead of on drafting paper. To meet the wishes of this class of customers
we give the following instructions for doing so. Weadvise all who use
The Ladies' Tailor to follow the example of the best tailors and make their
drafts on paper for the following reasons:
1. It is always more accurate. In drawing on the lining the material
will always stretch or give a little in drafting, while paper cannot.
2. By tracing from paper drafting, you always have the stitching line
clearly marked.
3. paper is used you can always test your drafting with tape line
If
and if is an error made in making up it can be readily proven, and
there
the mistake of the one who makes the garment corrected, otherwise the
fault would often be charged to the cutter when she was not to be blamed.
4. It saves time, when all the preliminary

part of dressmaking is done accurately, all
the time is saved that is lost in refitting and
changing, besides the drafting can often be
used to cut out several dresses for a cus-
tomer, while if drafting is made on the lining
a draft must of course be made for each
garment cut.
FRONT DRAFT.
Fig. 41.
1. Makefront same as instruction draft
omitting the lines for the under-arm piece.
2. Make a new dot 4 inches outside of
dot 20, and draw new lines 21 and 30
from it.
3. Make a new dot 4 inches from dot 17

and draw line 18 from it.
4. Draw skirt lines as shown in Fig. 41.
BACK DRAFT.
Fig. 42.
The easiest way to learn to draft on
lining is as follows:
1. Draw the back draft same as instruc-
ADDRESS ALL COMMUNICATIONS TO HUGHES & STOREY, ST. LOUIS, MO
36
tion draft making all the dots, but omiting the lines for side body.
2. Draw the back piece same as instruction draft.

3. Draw lines across dot 25 and 23 square from line 1 as shown in Fig. 42.
4. Move side body over 1J4 inches by making new dots lj4 inches outside
of each of the dots marked 25, 23, 21, 10, 11, 33 and 29 in instruction draft and
drawing side body to these new dots in the same manner as illustrated in
Fig. 42.
CUTTING THE LINING.

Fig. 43.
After tracing the lining as per instructions in instruction book, remove the
drafting and cut the lining allowing a full half inch for seams, except at neck
and arm-hole and one and a half inches in front for laps. Do not cut out the
darts until after they are basted. The seams allowed should be cut evenly.
A lining with edges uneven and ziz zag having a slovenly appearance
its is
usually followed by a poorly made and ill-fitting garment.
CUTTING THE MATERIAL

Fig. 43.
Place each piece of the lining separately on the material and cut out the
goods, allowing about a fourth inch wider seams than for the lining. When cut
pin the lining and material of each separate piece together, roll each piece up
separately ready for basting and thus avoid the danger of cutting two pieces for
one side or having the pieces separated or changed. Be very careful to cut
goods so that the grain or thread of the material will be precisely the same as
the grain or thread of the lining and both should be cut so as to run even with
the waist line. The only exception to this rule is when figured, plaid or striped
goods are used, and a part of the dress is cut on the bias of the goods.
HOW TO BASTE
THE SEAMS TO
AVOID
WRINKLES.
Fig. 43.
In lesson on basting given in our
first instruction book full directions
are given about fulling the lining
on goods. How to do this prop-
erly is well illustrated in Fig. 43.
First baste the darts beginning
about one-fourth inch above the
first dart and baste evenly to the
bottom of the dart. When the sec-

ond dart is straight baste in the
same manner. The goods between
the darts from a point two inches
below the waist should be stretched
a very little to keep it from wrink-
ling. When the French Bias Dart
is used it should be held a little
fullfrom CC as illustrated in Fig.
43, and the remainder of the dart
37
should be basted evenly. In basting tne unaer-arm piece on to the front begin at the waist line and baste up to the
arm-hole, stretch the front a little at the point marked DD and full it a little at the point marked E E. Then baste
from the waist line down and full the front about one-fourth inch at the point marked F F. In basting the side-body
on to the back the back should be stretched a little at the point marked I I, and fulled about one-fourth inch on to the
side-body at the point marked J J. These two pieces should be pinned together carefully before basting so as to keep
the fullness at the proper place and to keep the waist line from twisting. Always hold the back piece next to you in
basting on the side- body, then baste evenly below the waist line. Baste the two back pieces together evenly. In bast-
ing the under-arm piece on the side-body it should be held a little full at the point marked
and stretched a very H H
little at the point G G. In basting the shoulder seams together full the back to the front one-fourth inch at K K and
stretch the front one-fourth inch at L L. To keep the arm-hole from stretching run a strong thread around the arm-
hole in the seam, fulling it slightly at the point marked M M. Another plan is baste a narrow tape around the arm-
hole and stitch it fast in the seam. All curved or French fronts should be stretched about one-fourth inch at the point
marked B B, and fulled from one-fourth to one-half inch at the point marked A A. After basting trim the edges even
with the lining.
BASTING THE SLEEVE.

Commence seam and baste to the bottom perfectly smooth. When basted lay the sleeve on a
at the top of inside
table flatand smooth, under part on the top. Pin outside seam smoothly beginning at the top of sleeve in tracing marks
to elbow. Then pin from wrist to within 1*4 inches of elbow smoothly and gather the fullness evenly in the space of \ /> l
inches at elbow. Baste smoothly in tracing marks. When the sleeve is properly basted it will lay flat and smooth
on the table.
In drafting sleeves, the top of the sleeve for all tight fitting garments should be from two to three inches larger
than the arm-hole of the waist and the fullness sewed in over the most rounding part. In outside garments it should be
about one and a half inches larger than the arm-hole and most of the fullness put around the top of the arm.
SUGGESTIONS ON FITTING.
Itsometimes happens especially with beginners in dresscutting that after taking a measure basting and trying on
a garment that it does not fit, and the seamstress often feeling positive that she could not have made a mistake falls into
the error of thinking that the old reliable square of inches might possibly be wrong and condemns her System. The
truth is that those who use The Ladies' Tailor System would never have any refitting to do if it were not "human to
err," but the cutter or dressmaker does not live who is not liable to make a mistake either in taking the measure, making
a drafting, tracing the material, or in making up the goods; and an error in any of these things will make some change
necessary. It is therefore well that all should know what the results of bad measures are and how to fit a garment when
errors are made.

1. When the neck measure is too large there will be looseness around the neck near the shoulder. Take up
the shoulder seam.
2. When the arms-eye measure is too large the sleeve will be too large at arm-hole. Fit on the outside
seam.
;s. When the bust measure is too large there will be fullness under the arms or in front. Take up on the under-
arm seam.
4. When the bust measure is too tight the dress will bind across the front causing an indenture near the arms.
Let out the under-arm seam: Add some goods down the front line.
5. When the waist measure is too large the dress will be too loose. Take up the under-arm seam.
6. When the waist measure is too tight add goods on the underarm seam.
7. When the hip measure is too tight wrinkles will be caused about the waist and over the hips. Loosen skirt
lines and fit them smoothly.
8. When the width of the back is too wide it will give a broad appearance across the back and make the arm-
hole too small. Trim out the arm-hole in back.
9. When the width of back is too narrow let out in centre of back and take up on the under-arm seam.
10. When the length of the back measure is too long the dress will wrinkle across the back and will be too high
near the neck. Trim out the neck and take up on the shoulder seams. To avoid this trouble never take the length
of back measure below the level line as shown in diagram B of instruction book. If extra length in back is necessary
add below natural waist line as shown by lines B and D in Fig. 5 in instruction book.
11. When the under-arm measure is too long the dress will wrinkle under the arms. Trim out arm-hole under
the arm. When this measure is too short the garment will be too high at the neck and short waisted. Trim out back
of neck and take up the back shoulder seam and fit it down to the waist.
38
.

When the balance measures are too long it will be loose on the shoulders. Take up on shoulder seam.
12.
When balance measures are too tight the garment will be too tight on shoulders. Let out shoulder seams.
13. When the front measure is too long the dress will wrinkle in front near the waist. Fit on the shoulder seam.
When too short the garment will be too short in front. Fit at waist line.
14. When the scye measure is too long the arm-hole will be too deep and it will be necessary to fit on shoulder
seam and skirt lines. When the scye measure is too short the arm-hole will not be sufficiently deep and will cause wrinkles
in front near the arm. Trim out at arm-hole.
15. If the height of dart measures are either too long or short they will be either too high or low in the garment.
If too high they should be lowered and if too short they should be raised, being careful not to increase or decrease the
width of the darts at waist line.
Remember that many a garment has been cut out well and when made up is distorted and full of wrinkles not
fitting smoothly caused by poor basting. Study instructions on basting.
TABLE SHOWING THE AMOUNT OF GOODS REQUIRED.

This table based on medium sized figures and will answer for 34, 36 or 38 bust measure.
is When there is much
variations in size or in length of skirt a little must be deducted or added as good judgment suggests.
In using this table find the style of garment and follow the line until the column is reached which gives the width
of your material. At this point you will find the amount of goods needed.
DIFFERENT WIDTH OF GOODS IN INCHES.

STYLE OF GARMENT.
18 20 22 24
Plain dress 15 13^ 12

Fancy dress 111
% 17>4 16
Round waist 2 2
Basque 6 5
Polonaise !i 8
Princess 12 11 10
Princess with full train. . . 1!) liy 16
Ladies' coat 5 5
Long double breasted coat 7 (i by
Short cape or wrap 3 8# 2y2
Cloak or long wrap 8 1% 7
Dolman 5 5 *y
Long dolman 6 by, 5
Plain skirt Si 9 8
Fancy skirt 12 11 10
Plain sleeve 1 1
Fancy sleeve 2 2X 2
7
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013 964 967 9
* *
/
* INDEX. -v
* * *
^\
PAGE.
Blazer 8 I Index 40
Boys' Coat :;;; Ladies' Walking Jacket 28
Boys' Knee Pants 33 Ladies' Box Coat 2 it
Back for Coat or Jacket ,s Ladies' Dolman 2'.i
Back of Gent's Shirt 31 Military Cape 32

I lishop Sleeve 10 Newmarket L'.S
Bell Sleeve 11 One-seam Sleeve :i
Bell Skirt 14 Parisian Dartless Basque 7

Back of Princess 18 Plain Round Skirt 15
Back Riding Habit Skirt
of 25 Poinjted Collar Hi
Back Riding Habit Trousers
of 27 Princess Corsage, with Bell back 18
Basting the Sleeve ;;,s Princess, with Bell back r.i
Collar and Lapel together 17 Roll Collar L6

Cutting the Lining 37 Russian Cape ... 32
Cutting the Material 37 Russian Circular 32
Double-Breasted Coat 7 Seven-gored Skirt 15
Dartless Coat, Tight-fitting 8 Shirt Bosom 35
Dartless Half-fitting Coat 8 Shirt Neck Band :;.",
Dartless Three-quarter Coat 8 Shirt Sleeve for Ladies' Dress 10

Dartless Princess 21 Shirt Sleeve 35
Dartless Draped Princess 21 Shawl Collar 17
Drafting on the Lining 3(j Seamless Dress 21
French Bias Basque, with straight front 5 Seamless Princess 22
French Bias Basque, with French front 5 Suggestions on Fitting 38
French Bias Basque, with two under-arm pieces. ... The French back 8
Full dress Sleeve ;i The Ladies' Tailor Favorite Sleeve 11
Full dress Bell Sleeve 11 Tight-fitting Sleeve 11
French Tight-fitting Sleeve 12 The Coat Sleeve 12
Fan-back Skirt 14 The Worth Skirt l:;
Front of Riding Habit Skirt 26 The Standing Collar li;
Front of Riding Habit Trousers 27 Turn-down Collar 17

Front of Gent's Shirt 35 The Princess 18
Girdles 1 The Ladies' Tailor Seamless Waist 22
How to Draft the Back in six pieces '.1
The Riding Habit 24
How Trace out the Princess
to 20 The Lapel and Collar 24
How to Baste the Seams to avoid wrinkles 37 The Ladies' Double-Breasted Prince Albert Coat . 28
High Shoulder Cape 30 Table showing the amount of goods required :'.:»
High Shoulder Cape, with Yoke :;i Umbrella Skirt 15

High Shoulder Cape, with tight front :; I Ulster 28
©qoonooqooqooqooqooqooqooqoonooqooqg
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40
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS
013 964 967 9

Ladies Tailor Complete

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U /7 A 7 X

COPYRIGHT SECURED OCTOBER. 1892, BY HUGHES & STOREY.

EKEEL PRINT. 1007-e-li LOCUST STREET. ST. LOUIS.

PRICE OF TAILOR-CUT PATTERNS.

Sleeves, Girdles, etc 50 each

DRAFTINGS AND PATTERNS.

THE LADIES' TAILOR SYSTEM

1st. COMMENCE WITH A FIXED DETERMINATION TO BE SUCCESSFUL. Remember that there

success, if these principles are continually followed.

2nd. FOSTER AND CULTIVATE A SPIRIT OF CONFIDENCE IN YOURSELF AND IN YOUR

old time methods of work.

ness that they must do their duty.

who try to work day and night.

11th. IN TAKING MEASURES BE DELIBERATE, EXCEEDINGLY CAREFUL AND ACCURATE

ADDRESS ALL COMMUNICATIONS TO HUGHES & STOREY, ST. LOUIS, MO.

THE LADIES' TAILOR SYSTEM.

not found on diagrams given in this book.

1. Draw line 1 4 inches

2. Continue line 9 down

4. Draw line A from dot

5. Make the dots for

8. Draw lines 44 and 45

11. Make new waist line

FRENCH BIAS BASQUE WITH FRENCH FRONT.

and 64 in instruction draft. 6. Draw line I from dot F to dot H.

ADDRESS ALL COMMUNICATIONS TO HUGHES & STOREY, ST. LOUIS, MO.

FRENCH BIAS BASQUE WITH TWO UNDER-ARM PIECES.

ADDRESS ALL COMMUNICATIONS TO HUGHES & STOUEY, ST. LOUIS, MO.

THE LADIES' TAILOR SYSTEM.

PARISIAN DARTLESS BASQUE.

Is made the same as instruction draft, with the following exceptions :

1. Make dot A )\ inch less than the size

2. Make dot B ){ inch more than the size

3. Draw dotted line C from dot 20 to dot B

<3. Make dot F the height of first dart

7. Place point S at dot A and draw line G

10. Shape waist line with dart curve as

11. Draw dotted line K square from dot A

12. Make dot L y? inch from end of line K.

14. Draw dotted line N ."> inches long from

Lower part of basque is shaped as illustrated

All outside garments, Cloaks, Mantles, Ulsters.

ADDRESS ALL COMMUNICATIONS TO HUGHES & STOREY, ST. LOUIS, MO.

Lapel and collar is made the same as inFig. 25.

DARTLESS HALF FITTING COAT.

DARTLESS THREE-QUARTER COAT.

BACK FOR COAT OR JACKET.

THE FRENCH BACK.

ADDRESS ALL COMMUNICATIONS TO HUGHES & STOREY, ST. LOUIS, MO.

HOW TO DRAFT BACK IN SIX PIECES.

1. Make dot B y2 inch from dot 9. 5. Make a y

FULL DRESS SLEEVE.

1. Make dot G 1 inch from dot 3.

2. Draw line H from dot G to center of line 27

4. Draw line J from dot I to center of line 25

ONE SEAM SLEEVE.

ADDRESS ALL COMMUNICATIONS TO HUGHES & STOREY, ST. LOUIS, MO.

Make plain sleeve drafting.

ADDRESS ALL, COMMUNICATIONS TO HUGHES & STOREY, ST. LOUIS, MO.

FULL DRESS BELL SLEEVE.