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The Mechanism of Deterioration, Treatment and Display of Historical Decorated

Silk Textiles

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 Volume 10, Issue 4, 2018

The Mechanism of Deterioration, Treatment and Display of Historical Decorated Silk

Textiles

Enas Abo El Enen Amin,

Associate Professor of Textiles Conservation,
Minia University, Faculty of Fine Arts, Conservation Dept.,
Egypt

ABSTRACT

This paper explores the deterioration aspects were found due to suffering from several degradation
factors during the previous museum exhibition for an archaeological Silk piece. The textile with
tow face, multicolored, and was exhibited in Applied Art museum in Egypt, Cairo, in case m.s
120/4. Also, treatment and conservation method have been done successfully such as cleaning the
piece, supporting of the deteriorated areas on new linen fabric and the museum display have been
done by using a wood frame and Acrylic sheet. But many deteriorated, degradation aspects were
investigated by using recent technologies such as Scanning electron microscopy with energy-
dispersive X-ray microanalysis (SEM/EDAX) is the most frequently used analytical technique to
determine the chemical composition. The X-rays can be analyzed with an energy-dispersive system
(EDAX), and they provide qualitative and quantitative information. The SEM images provide a
characteristic surface morphology and are useful for judging the surface structure of the
investigated sample, its fiber quality as well as its damage aspects, FTIR was used to identify the
kinds of dyes, and the Stereo Microscopy was used to investigate the weave structure.

Keywords: Historical Silk, acrylic sheet, deterioration, morphology, dyes, weave structure

1. Introduction domains were identified in the heavy chain

Archaeological and historic silk textiles molecule. The 12 domains that form the
form a valuable part of the collections in crystalline regions, are linked with each other
many museums, but as silk is a natural by the amorphous areas. The crystalline
proteinaceous fiber (Kim et al., 2008); regions compose the β-sheet structure (Zheng
consists of two types of self-assembled et al., 2015); in which strong hydrogen bonds
proteins: fibroin and sericin (Gong et al., and Van der Waals forces generate a
2013). Sericin is largely formed of amino thermodynamically stable structure it does
acids which prevent long-range ordering of not dilute in water, acids and alkali
the polymer and impart a solubility which (Koperska, 2015). The light chain and some
allows sericin to be removed from fibroin by regions in the heavy chain formed the
a thermo-chemical treatment (Garside et al., amorphous regions of fibroin. Because the
2014; Qi et al., 2017). A large protein, fibroin major components are polar amino acid
consists of a heavy chain, light chain. Twelve residues, the amorphous regions are less

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organized in a looser structure and are much aims to report the conservation treatment of
more easily damaged than the crystalline the object such as cleaning, supporting the
regions. Furthermore, different from the object on a new linen fabric, fixing separate
amorphous regions in the heavy chain, the parts and making a new display.
light chain is an independent sub-unit (only
connected to the heavy chain by few disulfide 2. Description and Condition
bonds) and exhibited less stable properties, 2.1. Historical Context
including more hydrophilic character, water The object was stored in the Applied
uptake ability and degradation rate. The Art Museum under no. m.s 120/4. The piece
amorphous regions of silk, especially the with size 50X65 cm with two faces stitched
light chain, would degrade rapidly. Over long together with Casting over stitch, the two was
time degradation, crystalline regions would waved by 1/1 plain weave technique. No. of
first be free crystal groups and progressively the first part warp is 23. No. of the weft 28.
turned into invisible molecular residues (Li et No. of the second part warp is 23. No. of the
al., 2015, Luxford, 2009). Unfortunately, weft 27. The first part with dark red color
improper storage can cause permanent embroidered with plant decorated with
damage to an object. Storage on a wooden yellow and black silk thread and the bottom
shelf or drawer (Saines, 1998); in out-of-sight of the piece decorated with geometric straight
places, resulting in years of neglect, lines with black and yellow silk threads
deterioration, and sometimes complete loss interchangeably along the piece of the
of important cultural material (Sullivan, thickness of 7 cm. While the second face with
1990); due to exposed to the high level of purple color embroidered with flowers which
relative humidity in relation to temperature of have 8 papers surrounding a circle by
the surroundings, insects, microorganisms, buttonhole stitch with purple silk threads, and
pH value and air pollution (Lech et al., 2015, the top and bottom of the piece is decorated
Fawzy et al., 2015). with Horizontal tape has a decoration with x
This paper explains the mechanisms of shaped thickness 7 mm and beside it plant
deterioration in this object, which is stored in decoration of 4 cm thickness (Figure 1.).
the Applied Art Museum in Egypt. The paper

Figure 1. The studied decorated historical silk textile with two faces.

2.2. Visual Investigation bleeding the black color of the decoration

The initial visual examinations showed plant and the fabric very brittle (Figure
that there are many signs of damage on this 2.A,B,C). On the second face there are:
object from the two faces such as, on the first missing area, discoloration of the purple
face there are: missing area, many separated waved silk, which fades and became gray in
parts, many stains and, separated threads, many places, there are many stains, ravel the
missing weft threads, missing warp threads warp and weft threads (Figure 3. A. B. C.).
and missing decorative yellow threads,

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 A B C

Figure 2.A.B.C. The types of damage in the first face.

A B C

Figure 3. A. B. C. The types of damage in the second face.

3. Investigations Egyptian Mineral Resources Authority,

3.1. Stereo Microscopy: Central Laboratories Sector, the Scanning
Images(x40) (The investigation was Electron Microscope for samples. Using
carried in the Minia University, Faculty of SEM Model Quanta 250 FEG (Field
Fine Arts, Conservation Dept. Center, Minia, Emission Gun) attached with EDAX Unit
Egypt), to investigate the weave structure of (Energy Dispersive X-ray Analyses, and
the object. K550X sputter coaterEngland), with
accelerating voltage 30 K.V.,
3.2. Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM): magnification14x up to 1000000 and
With energy-dispersive X-ray resolution for Gun.1n).
microanalysis (SEM/EDAX) is the most
frequently used analytical technique to 3.3. Fourier Transform infrared spectral
determine the chemical composition. The X- analysis (FTIR):
rays can be analyzed with an energy- FTIR analysis of solid phase samples
dispersive system (EDAX), and they provide can be typically performed using two
qualitative and quantitative information. The different methodologies. The first, more
SEM images provide a characteristic surface traditional and widely used approach, FTIR–
morphology and are useful for judging the KBr. FTIR analysis has been performed by
surface structure of the investigated sample, transmission techniques, in which the
its fiber quality as well as its damage aspects. infrared energy is passed directly through the
SEM was used to reveal diagnostic features compound being studied. The powder sample
of the fibers, necessary for their can be milled with potassium bromide (KBr)
identification. The morphology of the surface to form a very fine powder. This powder is
of the fibres was investigated by using then compressed into a thin pellet which can
Scanning Electron Microscope (Ahmed, be analyzed. In this method the sample is
2014). As well as the damage aspects of these diluted with KBr (IR grade) so that the
fibers (The investigation was carried in the concentration of the sample is 1%. Fabrics

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were measured by (Smart Performer ATR) 3.4.2. Fungi
unit accessory with Zinc Selenide crystal. Fungal isolation of the colonies was
ATR accessories require minimal setup and performed in Petri dishes containing PDA
are easy to clean. Samples are placed directly (potato dextrose agar 15g/L Dextrose,
onto the crystal surface itself. Single - bounce 200g/L Potatoes extract, 15g/L Agar
crystal modules tend to be the most versatile, (Domsch, 1980), after putting a sample of the
since most are supplied with a pressure object on the medium. All cultures were
device and are appropriate for a variety of grown for 7 days at 28ºC around the sample.
organic liquids and powders. Infrared Identification of fungi was based on the
Analysis was performed on a sample of the macroscopic features of colonies grown on
first face of object and compare the results agar plates, and the micro-morphology of the
with the results of infrared analysis of the reproductive structures was identified by
natural dye known standard, which help optical microscopy (OM). Fungal strains
knowing the dye used in fibre (Abo El enen, were identified following standard methods,
2017; Ahmed et al., 2011; Kamal et al., based on their macro and micro-
2013). (The analysis was conducted in the morphological characteristics (which have
infrared laboratory in the sector of projects - been investigated by the plant and
Egypt. by using: Infrared spectrum origin microbiology laboratory, faculty of science,
JASCO, FT/ IR-6100Type, Light Source Minia University).
Standard Detector, TGS, Start 399cm-1, End
4000.6 cm-1). 3.5. Testing the stability of dyes:
The object was to test the stability of
3.4. Isolation and Identification of the colored parts to wet cleaning by
microorganisms: immersing a piece of cotton wrapped round a
3.4.1. Bacterial wooden stick into water and the cleaning
Isolation procedures were carried out solutions and placing it in contact with the
in Petri dishes containing NA (Nutrient Agar colorful parts of the object, each part of the
5g/L Peptone, 5g/L beef extract, 5g/L sodium object was individually tested.
chloride (Domsch, 1980), after putting a
sample of the object on the media at 30ºC, for 4. Results
48 h.
4.1. Stereo Microscopy:
The distinct obtained single colonies
after growth it around the sample was sub- The microscopy photo of examining
cultured onto NA for characterization. threads are illustrated that the weave
structure of the object from the two faces was
1/1 plain weave technique (Figure 4. A. B.).

A B

Figures 4. A. B. Stereo Image shows that the weave structure of the object was 1/1 plain
weave technique.

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4.2. SEM Photos: extremely damaged, broken and covered
When examining the threads, it is clear that with dust and metal ions (Figure 5. C. D.).
the silk thread fibers (Figure 5. A. B.) are

A B

C D

Figures 5. A. B. SEM Image shows that all the threads are silk; C. Fibers are extremely
damaged and broken; D. Threads covered with dust and metal ions.

4.2.1. The analysis by using (EDAX): molecule as an electron acceptor accepts

Provided that the salts and solid dirt electrons from iron and combined with H+
consist of Na, Mg, Al, Si, Mo, Cl, K, Ca, Fe. and turns into the transition product. This
(Figure 6), the effect of the metals nature of product gets electron from iron and combined
degradation of the dye, were presented that with H+ again, then it turns into terminal
the metals, especially Al, Mg give a higher products. So pH and iron amount would
degradation rate of the dye. This can be affect the degradation reaction (Mohammad,
attributed to the standard electrode potential 2005). These reactions can cause dye
of these elements, but the mechanism bleeding and color changes. These elements
involves the diffusion of the dye to the iron also can attract and absorb acid or alkaline
metals where it is adsorbed. The degradation agents, and oxidizing or reducing agents from
reaction of dyes occurs on the surface of the atmosphere, such as Sulphur dioxide,
metal iron, when an interaction between dye nitrogen dioxide and hydrogen sulphide.
molecules and iron happens iron as an Such absorption can result in the formation of
electron donor loses electrons, the dye acid solutions with moisture from the

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atmosphere or the materials themselves and oxidation or reduction reactions in fiber
promote hydrolysis, as well as resulting in molecules (Marouf, 2009).

Figure 6. EDAX analysis of the chemical composition of the silk surface show that it is dirty
and covered with metal ions.

4.3. FTIR analysis: is Turmeric (Figure 7. B.). The source of the

The results of the charts show that the red colored object is Madder (Figure 7. C.).
source of the black decorated color is But, the second face results show that the
Haematein, which is an extract of Logwood source of the purple color is a mix of Madder
(Figure 7. A.), and the yellow decorated color and Indigo (Figure 7. D.).

A B B

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 C C D D

Figure 7. A. FTIR analysis of the dyes show that the black dye is Haematein; B. The yellow
dye is Turmeric; C. The red dye is Madder; D. The purple dye is a mix of Madder
and Indigo.

4.4. The Isolation and Identification of al., 2008). Biodeterioration of textile

microorganisms: materials in the wet archaeological
The results showed that there is one type environment is both physical and chemical in
of fungi and another of bacteria has been nature. On the microscopic level, physical
detected on silk fibers. The detected fungus biodeterioration is caused by
are called Fusarium sp. (Figure 8). While the microorganisms, in particular fungi and
detected bacteria are called Bacillus sp. bacteria. These break down the textile fibers
(Figure 9). Fungal deterioration of historical through the mechanical activity of their
textiles in Egypt is due to improper growth or movement. They envelop fibers
environmental conditions in Egypt promote with corrosive microbial films, or penetrate,
the fungal growth and the nature of the branch out, and grow within fibers abrading
textiles too. Historical textiles in Egypt are and fracturing them. Microorganisms also
more acidic according to the surrounding bring about chemical biodeterioration by
environments, which are considered to create secreting extracellular enzymes onto the
favorable conditions for fungal growth fibers (Ellen, 2003). Although fungi are the
(Abdel-Kareem, November 2010). The most active microorganisms in textile
growth of microorganisms in organic biodeterioration (Sterflinger et al., 2013);
materials is dependent on the presence of they are not frequently associated with the
moisture, although, other factors such as deterioration of silk fibers. This is due to a
temperature, pH value (Abdel-Maksoud et complex histological structure or strong
al., 2013); light, ventilation and material inter-chain bonding and crystallinity
properties - the chemical constitution, (Garside et al., 2006). They can cause
structure and other compounds of the object, damage if the silk contains a high degree of
such as mordants, dyes, adhesives and sericin and are stored in warm and humid
finishes, which can slow down or accelerate conditions (Ljaljević et al., 2014, Tiano).
the biodeterioration processes (Cybulska et Some microorganisms do produce enzymes

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that break down these proteins (Abdel- provide nutrients and moisture for their
Kareem, 2010). Extracellular proteinases germination (Jain, 2008). If dissolved ionic
(proteolytic enzymes) (Zaitseva, 2009, salts are present, this swelling of the fiber
Shinde, 2010). Proteolytic enzymes of structure is exacerbated (Ellen, 2003). Also,
microbes hydrolyze disulphide and peptide the Fungal hyphae penetrate into the fibers,
bonds. Peptides in turn are hydrolyzed to and pierce it to find more easily digestible
amino acids by peptidases (Jain, 2008). This components. This can lead to the
activity causes physical damage. In development of small cavities and shallow
proteinaceous fibers this weakening of the pits into the fiber originating at the surface or
structure has profound consequences for the the extensive hollowing out of the fiber
long-term survival of the textile. Long interior causing fiber collapse (Ellen, 2003)
polymer chains are chopped into shorter The first attack of fungi and bacteria occurs
units, substantially reducing tensile strength. in the amorphous regions of the primary fiber
The increase in porosity arising from wall, spreading out of the crystalline areas,
physical and chemical damage to the fibers following the direction of the secondary wall
permits easier access to agents of (Silveira, 2013). Textile objects which are a
deterioration and readily allows degraded target of microbial attack and degradation,
fragments to leach out into the surrounding resulting as discoloration, staining, and loss
environment (Ellen, 2003). The added of structural strength (Minocheherhomji,
auxiliaries in textile such as dust, dirt, stains, 2016). Causes changes in their oxidation
soilants etc. promote microbial growth. Due stage, degrees of polymerisation, and
to hygroscopic nature of the above, they breakdown of molecular structure. In turn, it
readily absorb moisture and help in results in loss of strength, extensibility,
adherence of air borne microbial spores on general durability, discoloration, and
surface of textile material. In addition, they appearance (Guiamet et al., 2014).

Figure 8. The Isolation and Identification of microorganisms show that the detected fungus
is Fusarium sp.

Figure 9. The Isolation and Identification of microorganisms show that the detected
bacteria are Bacillus sp.

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4.5. Testing the stability of dyes: (concentration 0.1 g/L). It acts as a
It was found that the (purple) dye of the suspending agent preventing the redeposition
second face was stable and did not fade with of the dirt, by carrying it in the washing
the wet cleaning solution. But the (red) dye solution. It also increases the cleaning power
of the first face was unstable and fades with and emulsifying power of the detergent
the wet cleaning solution. (Weston, 1980). The water was agitated by
brush to allow it to penetrate between the
5. Conservation Processes fibers to release the dirt particles for 15 mins.
5.1. Cleaning procedure The bath temperature was 30 ˚C. Then a
5.1.1. Mechanical cleaning: second cleaning bath with water only was
Various types of fine brushes are used for applied for 10 mins again with water
getting rid of dust and incompact stain on the agitation, and then a third bath with water
textile. only, for 10 mins to remove any detergent
remains. The wet cleaning reduced the
5.1.2. Wet cleaning soiling and relaxed the stain. As a result of
This procedure takes many steps as follows: cleaning treatments carried out in a humid
- The first step the two faces of the environment, textiles regains elasticity
object were separated from each other by allowing their handling for the purposes of
unfastens the Casting over stitches preparing subsequent interventions of restoration
to wet cleaning the second face only. (Marian, 2014).
- The second step prior to any cleaning After cleaning the object was
action the textile was to apply a primary transferred onto clean and flat horizontal
support to the object by placing it between surface. The primary support was removed.
two webbed support fabrics, and stabilizing it The absorbent drying cotton fabric was used
using appropriately thin needles and fine as a poultice and pressed lightly to the surface
cotton thread with stitching using a running of the textile to remove all excessive water.
stitch. During stitching the needle was passed By ensuring that the wet textile settled in a
in between the yarns in the weave, not place. The object was left uncovered to
through them to avoid any damage to the complete drying at room temperature.
weakened fibers. In order to protect the parts
of the textile from disintegrating during the 5.2. The final support process:
different cleaning processes. 5.2.1. Preparing the support fabric:
- The third step fungicide (ethyl alcohol) Two supported linen fabric were used
was used for disinfecting the textile object (1/1 Plain Weave). The linen fabrics are very
(Abdel-Kareem et al., 2010). It is the best strong. Its surface was cleaned using hot
method to protect textile surfaces from any water with a few drops of detergent solution
contamination and to prevent the future (Synperonic N), to remove chemical
fungal and bacterial growth on historical residues. This was to prevent possible
textiles. It was put in the cleaning solution. shrinkage, due to humidity changes. Then,
- The final step washing solution is the textiles were rinsed with distilled water
prepared by mixing water with other several times to ensure that it was free of
detergent agents (Synperonic N), to increase detergent and prevent any future shrinkage.
the effectiveness of the cleaning process Then, the textiles were dried with an iron.
(Marian, 2014). It adheres to the surface of The linen textile sizes are 75×60 cm. to
soiling and reduces the surface tension and support each part of the object on one linen
penetrates into soiling on the fiber surface fabric.
and removes it (Osman, 2011; Kim, 2011).
The ratio was one part detergent Synperonic
N to 100 parts of water. Other additive was
also put like carboxymethyl cellulose (CMC)

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5.2.2. Dying procedure of the silk threads: first start the work on the lines of the first row
The threads were dyed with cochineal and after completing it comes second row, so
to give it a red color. It was divided into the that mediates the distance between the first
following stages: lines row, then comes the third row as the first
- The cochineal dye was ground to a fine alternately until fixed was completed, also
powder and sieved to remove any large the weak places were fixed.
residues. The dry powder obtained was used
for the process of extraction. 5.2.4. Permanent supporting:
- Aqueous dye solutions were prepared, by After temporary fixing the tacking
adding the dye powder to water in large stitches were used with a very fine needle and
beakers. The extractions were obtained fine red dyed silk thread to fix every face. At
directly by boiling (50g) of dye in (1000ml) the beginning of the final stage, the edges of
of water at 100C° for 1 hour; the extractions the object all around were sewed with a small
were filtered through a filter paper to remove stitch technique (blanket stitch) and
any big residue and to obtain a clear filtrate. afterwards the edges of the missing and
The filtrate was used for dyeing of silk fabric vulnerable parts were attached by the same
samples. stitches. Similarly, couching stitches were
- Dying procedure was carried out by the used to attach the face to the new linen fabric
exhaustion method with the natural dyes. The and fixed the separated threads in true place.
pH of the dye bath was adjusted at (2-3) by The temporarily fixing was removed.
adding few drops of acetic acid. The dying
was carried out in 80-90 C° for 45 minutes 5.3. Display:
with continuous stirring and the liquor ratio After completing the treatment process
was 1:30. and fixing the object, it could be displayed in
- Alum mordant was used by immersing the suitable manners which allow us to see the
individual dyed silk threads in the mordant two faces of the object. It was divided into the
solution for one hour at a temperature of 80- following stages:
90 C° using liquor ratio 1:100. The mordant - Every supported fabric which curries, one
solution was prepared by dissolving (alum, face of the object was cut to become with size
Tartaric acid). After dyeing, the unfixed 67X52 cm.
dyestuff was removed by rinsing three times - The two supporting fabrics were collected
with cold water. together, whereas every face of the object
was put on the other and the back of the
5.2.3. Temporarily fixing: supporting fabric on the top. The two
Every linen support fabric was supporting fabrics were sewn together with
stretched on the detached wooden frame Running Stitch whereas the sewing were
which was prepared for temporary fixing taken at the beginning of the edge of the silk
with size (70×55 cm). Every part of the textile from the three sides.
textile was pulled on a wooden frame by - The Acrylic Sheets were prepared by porous
using pins with the province to keep its warps it to allow with aerate the object during the
and wefts on a right direction. museum display and with size 64.6X49.6 cm
Every face of the object was and 3mm thickness. The sheet was inserted
temporarily fixed on the textile support by onto the supporting textile from the fourth
using needle work, precisely using a thin open side after turn it, whereas the two silk
needle with red cotton yarn. The piece was textile became on the top.
put on the textile support with taking into - The fourth side of the supporting textile was
account putting the piece correctly in the sewing with Over-Casting Stitch.
middle. At the beginning, the piece was fixed - The two faces of the silk textile were sewn
by working longitudinal, straight and parallel together from the edges with Over-Casting
lines and each line length 10 cm and far from Stitch with the red silk threads.
the next line to it a distance of about 10 cm,

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-The wood frame was prepared for the the front and fixed on the girders from the
museum display. It is chosen with a good back with pins. The frame was surrounded
wood with size 66X51cm with two cross from the front with wood girders were
girders in the middle of the frame. There is tightened with linen fabric and were fixed on
one moving girder was fixed on the middle the frame girders with nails, to allow put the
girder with hinge to allow the display object, supporting object inside it on any face and we
in header position and diagonal with 45- can pick it and display the other face when
degree angle (WAAC Newsletter, 2013). The we want (Figure 10. A. B. C. D.).
frame was tightened with linen fabric from
-

Figures 10. A. B. show the final museum display for the object in frame; C. D.
with˚45 angle.

6. Discussion and Conclusion textile objects in the museum. Conservation

The decorated silk textile is in poor processes improved the appearance of the
condition There are many signs of damage on silk textile due to improved physical and
this object are illustrated: missing area, many mechanical properties of the objects which
separated parts, dust, metal ions and stains, will lengthen their survival and thus to insure
separated threads, bleeding the black color of that these collection are available for future
the decoration plant in the first face and generations. The conservation process
discoloration of the purple waved silk, which includes various steps such as: cleaning
fades and became gray in many places in the textile objects by immersion in an aqueous
second face, the fabric very brittle, and solution (wet cleaning) was the most suitable
microorganism infestations which was for the silk textile in this study, the support
Cleary appeared from the Isolation and process, display methods.
Identification of microorganisms , there is In conclusion, Textile finds are greatly
one type of fungi is called Fusarium sp. and damaged. They are very impermanent. For
another of bacteria types are called Bacillus that, we must to intervene with the suitable
sp. The SEM of examining decorated textile treatment after using the new standards of
threads are illustrated that all the threads documentation with the use of modern
made from silk threads. FTIR analysis show analytical methods, if we want to preserve
that The first face dyed with dark red color them for the next generations to they explain
composed of Madder, the black decorated many historical periods.
color is Haematein which extract of
Logwood, and the yellow decorated color is 7. Acknowledgements
Turmeric. The second face dyed with purple The author is grateful for the Manager of
color composed of Madder and Indigo. The Applied Art Museum, Egypt.
study confirms that it is necessary to conserve

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