Standard Operating Procedure

for Pinch Setting, Snap Attachment & Performance Testing

SCOPE

The purpose of pinch setting, snap operability and snap pull test standard operating procedures is to ensure that all snaps are
securely attached and to verify each snap attachment machine is correctly adjusted as per snap fastener data sheet. This also
establishes an informed procedure throughout Eddie Bauer’s vendor base specified to ensure snap fastener applications are
consistent with good manufacturing practices.

The Guide also consists of the following sections:

a) Introduction to Snap Fastener, Snap Terminology & Performance Standards

b) Pinch Setting & Inspection Procedure
c) Snap Application, Inspection & Pull Test Procedure
d) Pinch Setting & Pull Test Process Control Data Sheet

Snap Fasteners – Manufacturer’s Standards

It is recommended that the Eddie Bauer vendors make order placements in compliance to technical data sheets of the snap
supplier. Vendors must follow the technical specification package when ordering all materials and trims. However, when
indicated by the tech pack as ‘vendor sourced’, vendors may purchase their snaps & rivets from their own source but it is
important that these trims meets Eddie Bauer performance standards and metal detection policy as well as California Prop
65 and CPSIA regulations as applicable. All brass metal wear used for leather goods, must be copper plated or double
lacquer finished to protect from ‘stress corrosion’ which can be triggered by aggressive chemicals/gases used in the leather
tanning process. Stress corrosion can lead to cracks and breaks, if brass items are not properly protected.

WHAT’S A SNAP?

Snap

Any clasp or fastener that closes with a click; to close, fasten, go into place, etc. with a snapping sound or to
break, apart or be released with a sharp, cracking sound.

Snap fasteners

Most commonly known as ‘snaps’ date back as far as the 1800’s when sew-on snaps were used for costumes and
lingerie. It wasn’t until the 1940’s that the 4-part gripper style snaps were introduced to the home sewing
consumers. This style of snap revolutionized the way sewing consumers used snaps.

Up until then, only large garment manufacturers were able to use precision automatic equipment to attach snaps
onto clothing. Today, there are many options for snap attachment. When it comes to attaching 4-part snaps, a
snap attaching device is required. Choosing a snap attaching tool is like choosing fabric for a garment. Therefore
it is important our vendors work with the snap supplier in choosing the correct application tool for snaps in use
for the Eddie Bauer styles.
SNAP COMPONENTS

There are two different types of snaps currently on the market — post-style and prong-style. A post-style snap has
a shaft that requires a hole to penetrate the fabric.

A prong-style snap has teeth that penetrate through the fabric. For best results, look for industrial quality snaps
that are sure to stay secure.

Technically, snaps are mechanical closures consisting of a closure unit and attaching unit. A post-style snap has a
shaft that requires a hole to penetrate the fabric. A prong-style snap has teeth that penetrate through the fabric. For
best results, look for industrial quality snaps that are sure to stay secure.

Note: Do not mix snap parts among manufactures. Snaps are not interchangeable and are not warranted if used
interchangeably. Each manufacturer makes snaps to function in harmony. Adding another manufacturer’s snap
components into the mix could cause the snaps not to work.
Jean Button

What is a Jeans Button?

A Jeans Button is also called a Tack Button and is generally used as a method of fastening for denim trousers or
denim jackets or children’s wear garments. A Jeans button is also used as a fastening on Dungarees.

A Jeans Button consists of 2 components - The Jeans Button & Jeans Button tack.

What is a Jeans Button Tack?

A jeans button tack attaches through the fabric and secures into the base of the jeans button.

What is a Jeans Rivet?

Jeans Rivet is commonly used as a method of pocket reinforcement for denim trousers, also as a means of
decoration on a garment. A Jeans Rivet set consists of 2 components - The Jeans Rivet & Jeans rivet tack.

What is a Jeans Rivet Tack?

A Jeans rivet tack attaches through the fabric and secures into the base of the jeans rivet.

What is a Snap Cap?

A SNAP CAP is the component part most likely to be used as the decorative feature on a garment. SNAP CAPS
are available in a range of sizes, diameter, and in a variety of designs and metal finishes.

A SNAP CAP is one of the FOUR components that make up a FOUR PART SNAP FASTENER combination.
‘S’ Spring Type Snap

So called as the socket (female part) incorporates a parallel spring mechanism which engages the stud (male part),
these springs are very similar in shape to the letter S.

This type of fastener is traditionally used on outerwear (all ages), often on over-shirts and also on leather goods
“S” Spring type must only be used on WOVEN FABRICS - NOT KNITTED.

COMPONENT PARTS OF THE S-SPRING TYPE SNAP

SNAP CAP
A snap cap is the component part most likely to be used as the decorative feature on a garment and is covered in
detail in the previous section.

SOCKET
This component attaches with the cap through the garment fabric. This is often referred to as the FEMALE part of
the 4 part set.

STUD
This component, often referred to as the MALE part of the 4 part set is the component part that fits into the socket
to give the SNAP.

POST
This component, often referred to as a stud eyelet attaches through the garment fabric and is assembled with the
stud.
RING SPRING TYPE SNAP

So called as the “socket” (female part) incorporates a single spring in the shape of a split ring, this fits around the
inside diameter of the socket to engage the stud (male part). Ring Spring type must only be used on WOVEN
FABRICS - NOT KNITTED.

COMPONENT PARTS OF THE RING SPRING SNAP

SNAP CAP
A snap cap is the component part most likely to be used as the decorative feature on a garment and is covered in
detail in the previous section.

SOCKET
This component attaches with the cap through the garment fabric. This is often referred to as the FEMALE part of
the 4 part set.

STUD
This component, often referred to as the MALE part of the 4 part set is the component part that fits into the socket
to give the SNAP.

POST
This component, often referred to as a stud eyelet attaches through the garment fabric and is assembled with the
stud.
PRONG TYPE SNAP

This product is suitable for use on knitted fabrics due to the construction of the five pronged ring which attaches
with either the socket or the stud.

A LIGNE is a measurement equivalent to 1/40th of an inch and the size of the product relates to the diameter of
the open prong.

COMPONENT PARTS OF PRONG TYPE SNAP

OPEN PRONG
The open prong is in range of metal finishes and also in a range of colors. The customer has a choice of either
buying a color from Snap supplier or providing snap supplier with a sample of colored fabric for a color matching
to be done.

SOCKET
This component attaches with the open prong through the garment fabric. This component is often referred to as
the FEMALE part of the set.

STUD
This component, often referred to as the MALE part of the 4 part set is the component part that fits into the socket
to give the SNAP.

All snaps must be applied by recommended pneumatic or semi automatic press machines of the snap button
supplier. These recommended press machines are compatible to the die sets of the snap brand and comply with
the technical settings required by the snap button supplier. Manually operated hand, foot or flywheel presses
may not meet the required performance standards and must not use on Eddie Bauer merchandise. Garment
manufacturers are required to contact the snap suppliers’ application laboratories for assistance in selecting the
appropriate snap components for each new application prior to order placements.
Performance Standards

While snap suppliers and the vendors are responsible for ensuring that the products actually supplied by snap

supplier meets all Eddie Bauer performance requirements. Below are the minimum physical snap performance
requirements of Eddie Bauer:

All trim components must meet California Proposition 65 and CPSIA Regulatory Requirements, which as of January 1, 2013
may include lead and / or phthalates requirements. Valid test documentation may be provided within 1 year old.
Manufacturing
Qualities Visual No sharp points or edges
Appearance Visual No adverse affects & visually acceptable.
after 3 Actual Follow Color Change Class 4.0 minimum
Launderings submitted care Staining Class 4.5 minimum
and/or 1 Dry
Cleanings Self Staining Class 5.0
Operability METAL SNAPS:
Snap together strength (closing force): 3 - 8 lbs.
ASTM D4846 Snap apart strength (opening force): 2 - 6 lbs.
AATCC/ASTM
PLASTIC SNAPS:
TS-013
Snap together strength (closing force): 3 – 6 lbs.
Snap apart strength (opening force): 1.5 – 4.5 lbs.
AOAC 974.02
Lead Content (mod) 90 ppm
Nickel
< 0.5 ug/cm2/week
Release EN 12472
Corrosion ASTM B117- Withstand 24 hours in 1% salt spray (fog) with no major corrosion or visual change.
Resistance 11(Modified) Modification = 1% salt (fog) spray. Rate as follows:
* Brown/reddish rusting - FAIL
*Green corrosion - FAIL
*White corrosion (if moderate/heavy and/or does not wipe off) - FAIL
*White corrosion (if slight and wipes off) - PASS
Slight discoloration, with no rust (white/green/brown), Class 4.0 shade change or better –
PASS
Attachment ASTM D7142,
15 lb. Minimum
Strength Option 1

Fabric Preparation

Choosing the right fabric for a garment is as important as choosing the correct interfacing for proper snap
attachment. It is recommended that you use an interfacing to help reinforce and protect the fabric surrounding the
fasteners. The best overall interfacing to use with snaps is a woven, non-fusible interfacing. An example would be
muslin or a loosely woven cotton/blend interfacing. Be sure to pre-shrink your interfacing for best results.

Snapping it Right

Prong-style snaps are best used with loosely woven or knit fabrics. Some of the most common uses for prong-
style snaps are:
Cardigans, shirts, vests, Lightweight jacket, Polar fleece garments, Children’s wear, Western wear, Home décor
Costumes, Uniforms, Sleepwear

Post-style snaps are best used with densely woven or natural/synthetic fabrics. Some of the most common uses for
post-style snaps are:
Leather jackets, Heavy outer wear jackets, Denim jackets/jeans, Purses/bags
Preparation for Snap Application

Component Selection
Vendor submits request for snap recommendations base upon style to snap supplier
Snap supplier issues snap fastener data sheet
Order components

Technical Support

Contact snap supplier local technician for machine set up

Provide proper attachment dies
Frequent application and maintenance training
On-site set-up and maintenance service
Emergency response
Component selection support

Sample Development

During size set samples technical department must determine the snap positioning base on the measurement grading and
ensure snap seated on determined foundation and not on seams or uneven foundation.
Component Inspection

Vendor QC conducts random inspection components upon receipt

Eddie Bauer recommendation is random inspect 10% of the components received for the style using Mil Std. 105E S-2
AQL 2.5 Single Sampling Plan.

Pinch Setting

Terminology

Pinch – Refers to thickness of assemble ring/socket, stud/post or stud/ring components.

Basic Pinch – thickness of assembled component when set without fabric.

Foundation Thickness - The foundation thickness is the measurement of the fabric / seam or area to which the snap is to
be applied.

Pinch Setting - The pinch setting is the overall depth of the component after the component is applied to the garment.

Overset – Setting pinch is too tights.

Under set – Setting pinch is too loose.

Snap Action – the amount of force required to snap or unsnap fastener; at times described as hard, easy or standard.

Machine Pinch Setting Calculation

Record highest / lowest values
Calculate warning limits
Determine average

Measurement Instrument

Digital vernier caliper connected with hardened steel flat is with an anvil surface area adequate to hold the snap surface for
measuring pinch setting of the prong & socket helps to cater the purpose.

Digital Constant Torque Micrometer

The foundation thickness is measured by means of a constant torque micrometer which contains a precise spring in its
handle.

Method of Measurement

Prong / Socket – The flat is placed squarely against the face line of the socket. The flat, in turn rests against the anvil of the
caliper while the face of the caliper spindle is turned down onto the prong ring preferably between the bases of the two
adjacent prong legs where they join the ring.

Stud/Post – The anvil of the caliper is placed against either the crown of the stud or the base line of the post barrel,
whichever is most convenient. The spindle is then tightened against the corresponding part in the same manner as for the
prong/socket. No flat is necessary. The setting pinch is read directly from the vernier.

Compressed foundation Thickness – The thickness of the snap fastener foundation (fabric plus reinforcement) is measured
at the point of the snap fastener attachment. The foundation is gradually squeezed between face of the spindle and the anvil.
The correct amount of compression is achieved by tightening the constant torque.

Specific Application – Individual application specifications are derived by adding the compressed foundation thickness to
the basic pinch. The result is setting pinch. The setting pinch so derived becomes the specification for that particular
application.

Quality Assurance

Pre-production

It is recommended that factory quality assurance systems have provisions made to random audit the process elements of
pinch setting according to a predetermined schedule. Important element is verifying the set standard and tolerance levels at
pre-production.

Verify specified snap is selected

Verify foundation thickness against set standard, consider acceptable if fallen into set tolerance level.
Apply 08 snaps to a mock up.
Verify machine pinch setting against set standard, consider acceptable if fallen into set tolerance level.

Audit Frequency on Production Garments

Eddie Bauer recommendation is to audit 08 garments randomly pulled for pinch setting measurements twice daily (am / pm)
from bulk production.

If the audited pinch settings from first sampling are found not within the set tolerance level, another 08 garments from the
bulk production must be pulled and audited. If one garment from the second sampling pulled failed, production must be
stopped and technical support must be requested.

Snap Application

Pre-production

Apply 08 snaps to a mock up made to the specified foundation. Measure pinch setting of each snap. Inspect and test for
application quality and performance. Record inspection findings and determine application parameters. Certifying
determined application parameters by an authorized factory Quality Assurance Manager and snap supplier Technician
assures the specified performance to commence bulk production.

Bulk Production

Specified Snaps

Verify specified snap has being selected for each style prior to commence attaching.
Refer to PSSP approved items for accuracy of selected component.

Die selections

To prevent the wrong dies being used which will result in unsecured snap attachment, the following procedures must be

followed:
 
Dies for different snap ligne and machines must be clearly marked and kept segregated to prevent mix-up; Unless  an 
operator has been trained, only designated technicians are allowed to change dies or have access to them. Operator
must not be allowed to fiddle with the settings on the machines and any setting changes must be made by the appropriate
snap suppliers’ technician.

Prevention - Hoppers filled to correct position

It is the responsibility of the operator to ensure that hoppers are not overfilled.   

The problem can be prevented by controlling the numbers of boxes of snaps issued at any one time to an operator.
The hopper may be filled only to below the spindle to prevent damaging the prong legs.    
An overfilled hopper causes crushing of snaps against each other which results in protruding leg after attachment.
Controlled filling also helps prevent components from falling into garment pockets, open seams or lining.

Important

This needs to be repeatedly reminded

Quality Assurance
What to Inspect

PSSP Specified Snap Attached?

Snap position Correct? - (parallel surface, not over seams)
Physical function (open and close as a customer)
Snap seating - (no space between material and component)
No Damage or rough/sharp surface which may cause injury to the customer
Protruding the leg of the prong
No distorting
Surrounding appearance of fabric for puckering, pleating, pulling

Inspection

It is the Eddie Bauer recommendation that factory QC system accommodate a trained QC for 100% inspection of the
products completed snap attaching.

Auditing

To comply with Eddie Bauer unconditional life time guarantee to the customers we recommend our vendors to follow
international statistical audit tools. Factory QC system built to follow Mil Std 105E S-2 AQL 2.5 Single Sampling Plan
preferred for internal snap audits. Audits carried out twice daily against each QC inspector assure the high inspection
accuracy.

Performance Tests & Standards

Vendors QC system must have provision to test performance of the bulk production in random intervals. As snap pull test
may damage the garment and it is advisable to use a mock up with snaps attached on identical foundation.

A mock up with 08 snaps attached must be tested twice daily for performance of attachment strength. Eddie Bauer
performance standard for attachment strength specified is 15 Lbs. holding for 10 seconds. (ASTM D 7142 [Option 1])
It is important to select the correct clamp Snap Attach Set Clamp

Test attachment
strength on all Check Standard
08 mock ups.

Documentation

Records on pull test must be maintained for each style production in progress. Factory QC Manager must be informed of
any test that does not meet the specified performance standard for immediate action.

Please refer to the Eddie Bauer “Daily Pinch Setting / Snap Pull Test Inspection Report” at the end of this document.
Eddie Bauer snap performance standards are explained in the early stage of this manual and for further information vendors
may refer to the specified Eddie Bauer test standards on Vendor Compliance Manual.

Performance Tests for Bulk Production by Bureau Veritas

In accordance to Eddie Bauer standard operating procedure vendors must pick up garments for bulk production testing once
in completion of setting snap application machine for the style.

Vendor submits bulk garments to Bureau Veritas (Eddie Bauer nominated laboratory),

Bureau Veritas Laboratory evaluates closing force, opening force & attachment strength, with instruction to check all
locations of each any trim/finding both outside and inside entire garment. In receipt of test results, if any of the performance
parameter not meeting required standard of Eddie Bauer, vendor must notify to Eddie Bauer Asia respective staff for further
instruction and the snap supplier for technical assistance.

****
Remarks:

If female and male parts are ring prong socket and stud, then both sides need to take pinch setting and attachment strength
measurements.

If female part is ring prong or cap prong socket, and male part is post / stud, then only female part needs to take pinch

setting and attachment strength measurements. Male part just conducts attachment strength measurements.

Individual snap attaching machine must be calibrated twice daily to maintain snap attachment accuracy and inspection
findings must be recorded. It is recommended that the duly completed “Daily Pinch Setting / Snap Pull Test Inspection
Report” must be available for the review of EB QA or FCA in demand.

Carrying out pinch setting inspections and attachment strengths at beginning and at the end of each style and color helps to
ensure correct snaps being attached.

Snap Machine Check and Maintenance

Daily – It is the responsibility of the machine operator to clean the machine and for the factory to determined daily
schedules as the other machine operators of the factory.

Technicians, Mechanic together with sewing line supervisor & designated QC must conduct pinch setting inspections, set
attaching pressure & performance test each day prior to start production.

Lubrication & Servicing schedule

The plant mechanic must service the snap machine once a week

Remove productive cover and lubricate with a drop of sewing machine oil;
Clean the areas not marked in red paint with a dust cloth.

Important Process Elements Assessment

Monitoring important process elements below assure the snaps are attached to specifications…..

Monitor foundation thickness
Verify machine pinch setting against snap supplier technical specifications  
Verify correct selection of snaps referring to PSSP approval
Verify snap attachment strength
Verify performance per machine

Revised 04/01/2018