Japan The Cookbook

NANCY SINGLETON HACHISU
,I II
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JAPAN
THE COOKBOOK
NANCY SINGLETON HACHISU
A
p
A
N
THE COOKBOOK
INTRODUCTION 9
A HISTORY OF JAPANESE FOOD 17
T H E RECI PES 29
CHEFS 391
G L O S S A RY 427
INDEX 44s
zensa1 29 n1mono 121
BEFORE T H E MEAL SIMMERED
aemono 59 shirumono 153
DRESSED SOUPS
namamono 91 mushimono 185
RAW STEAMED
sunomono 105 itamemono 207
VINEGARED STIR-FRIES
agemono 227 tsukemono 319
FRIED PICKLES
yakimono 253 nabemono 349
GRILLED ONE-POTS
menru1 275 kanmi 375
NOODLES SWEETS
gohan 289 shefu 391
RICE CHEFS
INTRODUCTION
When I was first approached by Phaidon to write Japan:

The Cookbook,my immediate response was an unequivocal,
enthusiastic, "Yes! "
This kind of "can do" nai:ve attitude is common with
us Americans, and I believe makes us both endearing yet
sometimes unrealistic. Had I known how gargantuan the
project would prove to be, spanning over an intensively
packed three years , I still would have agreed to write this
book. With all of the collective effort of the cooks and
artisans inJapan , the photographers , and the publisher,
this final work is impressive in its contribution . I feel like
less the author and more the conduit, for sharing this
moment in time of Japanese food .
Japan ' s topography is hardly simple. The Japanese
archipelago stretches from the vast northern island
prefecture, Hokkaido, to its southern island prefecture,
Okinawa, which has a land area of only o.6 percent of
Japan and is comprised of hundreds of islands. Even the
ten principal divisions of the country (Hokkaido, Tohoku ,
Kanto, Tokai, Hokuriku, Kinki , Chugoku , Shikoku ,
Kyushu , Okinawa) are complex. The Seto Inland Sea is
independent of these regions. Kansai (greater Osaka /
Kyoto) is often cited, but in apposition to Kanto, the
greater Tokyo region.
Japan is 73 percent mountains with 18,486 miles (29 , 751
kilometers) of coastline but only about 12 percent of arable
land. Mountain ranges divide plains and basins and are
often very steep, but volcanoes seem to pop up wherever
they want, for example Mount Fuji and Mount Asama.
The climate ranges from the cool mountains of the north,
snowbound in winter, to the subtropical islands in the
south. As a rainy country , receiving an average of 60 inches
(15 cm) of rain per year, Japan is perfectly suited to wet rice
cultivation, the crop that symbolizes the heart and soul of
Japan agriculture .
9 ,;1:[; o6 ,: I NT R O D U C TI O N
Today's food distribution systems are such that almost
all global foods are available in Japan. This has diluted
traditional culinary mores, and one ironic result of that
is an increased nostalgia for those very traditions . All kinds
of Japanese ingredients, even somewhat obscure ones from
small producers, are also now accessible throughout Japan,
which has given rise to a renewed interest and excitement
about previously regionalJapanese foods.
Because everything is available everywhere in this day and
age, Japan:The Cookbookis not an examination of "regional"
cooking traditions, as much as a curated experience of
Japan's culinary framework from a specific moment in time.
Using both fine and generous strokes, I have put together
what I hope is a broad and rich picture of the food of this
island nation.
I immediately split up the country into areas where
I know and admire chefs, and began to contact them
regarding sharing their local foods with me for this book.
Part of my request was to meet with local grandmothers to
learn about the regional home cooking. While the chefs were
enthusiastic, in the course of two years of research, only
a few grandmothers whom I met had the energy or desire to
cook for me to record. In fact, the only grandmas who did
cook for me did so as a great favor. Cooking for someone
else takes tremendous energy. Nonetheless, I was grateful for
any information and opportunity I had to sit and drink tea
with the Japanese countrywomen . Those hours spent letting
down our hair and those guffaws traded as we talked about
food and everything else gave the whole project life.
Building relationships is the foundation of how we work
and live inJapan. No request can come on the first meeting.
Friendship and mutual trust need to be forged. I spent
one and a half years visiting each chosen area at least two
or three times before returning with my photographer. The
atmospheric photos in this volume are a true record of the
country as it is today , and for that, a treasure.
Mostly, the Japanese I talked to shook their heads at
the prospect of capturing all of Japanese food between two
covers. The obstacles to such an endeavor are many, one
being that the origins of classic Japanese food came from
the upper classes and were without immediately visible
regional roots. This homogeneity also extends to "town
food," spawned from eateries of urban areas such as Tokyo,
Osaka , and Kyoto . Historically, rural Japan lived and ate
on a subsistence level. Certainly local foods exist today, but
generally there is less regional variety than one would expect.
I took another look at all of the material I had gathered
from chefs, local grandmothers, and artisanal makers of
traditional food and decided to concentrate on the dishes
generated from two of the most gifted Japanese home
IO t;t [; ell) t: INTRO D UC TI O N

cooks whom I had ever met: Harumi Kawaguchi and Teiko
Watanabe. Their food represents the local as well as the
countrywide shared aspects of Japanese food of the 1970s
and 1980s. Both cooks approach food with a clarity and
sensitivity that is often missing inJapanese home cooking
these days.
After World War II, Japan gradually dug out of a period
of severe food shortages and overall deprivation that was
the legacy of war and trade embargos. In the 1960s city
dwellers were already eating a wide range of foods, including
native Japanese as well as Western and Chinese dishes. By
the 197osJapanese home cooking had taken on an aspect
of luxuriousness, thanks to the availability of ingredients
and the prosperity at the time. The food in this book is
from that time and thus reflects clear, elegant flavors and
beautiful colors.
The food of the 1970s and 1980s does not appear online
and exists only in out-of-print books. My son Andrew,
who was working for me while I was writing this book, has
a discerning palate, so I asked him to mark various books
when he spotted interesting-looking, delicious foods.
Andrew only deemed two books as acceptable-the two books
I also felt were the most inspiring. The fact that I knew the
authors made the material more alive and accessible. My
Japanese assistant, Ryoko Ozawa, made audio recordings of
the books, and I set about writing recipes from the methods
recorded. Somewhere along the line, I stopped listening
to the recordings and began reading the Japanese methods.
From that point, a wealth of material opened up for me
in the form of out-of-print cookbooks and Japanese books
written about local foodways.
A large portion of the recipes in this book reflect the
writings of Harumi Kawaguchi, a Zen nun whom I have
known for decades. When I first met her, she was cooking
every other weekend at Shisuian, a temple food (shojin
ryori) restaurant in our town. Kawaguchi's temple food
is gentle, yet full of flavor from seasonal ingredients. The
material she shared is from before she became a nun, yet
the food has that same purity and mindfulness as does her
temple food. Her "recipes" were ingredient lists without
amounts and a bare sketch of how to put each dish together.
With Kawaguchi's permission, I reconstructed recipes
from these sketches, and became even more passionate
about Japanese food and this body of material that I newly
encountered. As I tested the recipes, I became even more
excited by the vegetable-centric nature of many dishes,
as well as the harmonious flavors and elegance of the food.
The enthusiastic tasters-my school students and their
grandmothers, my assistant Ryoko, and son Andrew-all
agreed: The food is delicious and special.
rr i;tt;.l6i: INTRODUCTION
My other mentor in food was Teiko Watanabe , a
formidable, yet kind octogenarian from Iwate prefecture
in northeasternJapan. I had become close to the people at
Oigen Ironworks there and was invited periodically to their
semiannual food event : "Food, Food, " where Watanabe was
the main attraction. I have copious photos, video clips , and
notes of her cooking. I also realized that her published book
was one that my son Andrew had designated as interesting
and worthy of att e ntion . I cont a cted Teiko through the
Oigen staff and she gave me complete unfettered access
to her material. I translated thi s to English , keeping the
heart and integrity of the Japanese recipes . Adjusting for
a slightly more modern approach and less sweet palate,
I made the recipes my own to share here.
Many people assume I learned to cook Jap anese food
from my Japanese mother-in-law . This is not true. I have
been cooking all of my life . My husband, Tadaaki, is an
excellent cook , so other than a foray into temple food
cooking when I first arrived in Japan from America in 1988,
I left the Japanese cooking to him , except Japanese - flavored
salads . Once we renovated my in-laws' farmhou se, I became
the "resident bride," and took over the mak ing of tempura
(I like it hot and crispy) and kenchinjiru (page 171), the country
soup we make before the New Year when friends come to
help pound mochi [glutinous rice]. Writing cookbooks had
always been my life 's ambition ; I have taught cooking since
the begining of our marriage to achieve that goal. I also
became active in Slow Food and, along with my husband ,
put great effort into preserving and reviving the foodways
of our local area . I had first looked at the Japanese food in
our family as "Tadaaki's food." Over the decades , Japanese
recipes were transmitted to me orally and I faithfully recorded
the heart and spirit of the dishes before writing the recipes
and then testing them. Proportions and amounts needed to
be based on logic, and that logic is generated from years of
cooking experience.
Like everywhere , modern-d ay Japanese rely on conveni-
ence foods and instant preparations . Part of why I immerse
myselfinJapanese cuisine is to advocate for a look back at
traditional foods and artisanal ingredients that have not
yet been lost. Chefs around the world are using Japanese
ingredients and flavor concepts , though sometimes they
do not have access to the finest quality ingredients. It is
important to put great effort into finding the best possible
versions of any of the key ingredients, especially while in the
process of getting a sense of how to use them. Sourcing top
Japanese ingredients, at least in the initial learning curve
time, is essential. Well-made ingredients will be excellent
teachers in and of themselves. Once a sense of how to use
the ingredi e nts and how they interact with each other is
12 ti [; ol6t: I N TROD UC TION

achieved, it is important to maintain a quality level-high,
mid, or low-and stick to that. For instance, high-quality
mirin will overpower low-quality soy sauce, while low-quality
mirin will interact perfectly.
Sa-shi-su-se-so is a mnemonic for the main flavoring
ingredients of Japanese cuisine: Sa=sato [sugar or mirin],
shi=shio [salt], su=su [vinegar], se=seu the archaic reading
of sh'!)lu [soy sauce], and so=miso. These are the only essential
ingredients. I suggest putting some time into getting the
level that integrates best with the other ingredients.
There are a few other important seasoning ingredients
that appear throughout this book. Without question, the
most important secondary flavoring after sa-shi-su-se-so is
sesame: primarily seeds and oils , but also sesame pastes.
It is ideal to find white and black sesame seeds, and , if
possible, gold . Gold sesame is the most common seed
variety in Japan and is used to produce the sesame oil that
most people use. Sesame seeds are roasted like coffee. We
have excellent local organic sesame, but there is no possible
way for me to roast my local organic sesame seeds as expertly
as a top roaster. Wadaman Sesame in Osaka is perhaps the
best sesame roaster in the world, and certainly the best in
Japan. Wadaman sesame is worth seeking out.
I have also become obsessed with ume . Called "sour
plum" in English, ume is actually part of the apricot family.
The fruit is picked while still green , then brined for a couple
weeks until the sun comes out. After sun-drying for three
days (sometimes with red shiso leaves), the velvety soft, salty-
sour umeboshi [dried sour "plum"] is packed away to mellow
for one year before using, and the brine in which the ume
was soaked before sun-drying is used as a vinegar alternative
called umesu [labeled in English as plum vinegar]. My local
soy sauce, miso , tofu, and pickle company, YamakiJozo,
also has a contract farmer in the hills near us who produces
organic umeboshi, ume paste, umesu, and red shiso powder for
them. I make my own umeboshi and they are some of the best
I have ever tasted. But the vibrant ume paste and umesu that
Masanori Yoshida makes is stunning in comparison, and add
notes of sour, salt, and fruit to steamed white fish or root
vegetables such as daikon and turnip. The naturally cloudy
umesu is put through a centrifuge by Yoshida to clarify , so
it is bright and compelling (even by the spoonful). And the
red shiso is dipped in umesu and sun-dried three times before
being pulverized and added to top-quality Japanese sea salt.
I became more and more interested in exploring
seaweed and dried fish as I traveled around Japan. Although
certainly a special treat in the spring when freshly harvested ,
reconstituted dried sea greens are still absolutely delicious.
I buy the dried sea greens in the summer from the fishermen's
wives association in Tanohata Village of northern Iwate
13 (;I: (.; 6"J(;:: INTRO DUCT ION

prefecture, and I keep a stash of them in my larder for use
throughout the year.
There are quite a few recipes in this book with daikon,
burdock, lotus root, taro root, komatsuna (Japanese mustard],
napa cabbage ( Chinese leaf), and shiitake, which may not all
be easy to find. By all means substitute similar vegetables,
mushrooms, sea greens, or fruits for any that are not readily
available. There is no obligation to use every ingredient.
Many of the recipes contain a number of vegetables to add
complexity and also color and texture. Just be aware of
how the dish will be affected and make the decision with
confidence and a clear heart. There have been countless
times that I skipped an ingredient or two or substituted
without impunity. Use a lighter hand with the seasoning-
less is more with Japanese food .
Though usually best when freshly made, any dish can
appear at different meals throughout the day. These recipes
are written for four and six people . They are written with
a baseline flavor in mind-if more salt, sweet, sour, or spicy
is desired, adjust accordingly.
I believe the unique approach to Japanese food and the
recipes in this book have been replaced with quicker, more
convenient foods or cooking methods. I like to think this
more traditional way of eating and cooking is not lost-just
overlooked. And it is my hope that the recipes in this volume
will speak to home cooks inJapan and around the world,
as much as they have spoken to me.
14 ti [; <lbt::: INTRO D UC TI O N
A HISTORY OF JAPANESE FOOD
The earliest account of Japanese food culture appears in the

WeiZ/ii(239 CE), the chronicle of the Chinese Wei kingdom.
What is surprising (aside from the few amusing comments
on third-century Japan's eating and drinking habits) is how
relevant these ancient observations are to current-day Japan.
That in and of itself is cause for great hope for the culinary
future of this archipelago.
" ... there are people who are specialized in diving into the
water for fish and shellfish"; "rice and millet are cultivated";
"as the climate is warm, raw vegetables are eaten in both
summer and winter" ; "they have ginger, citrus fruits, sansho
pepper and myoga ginger, but do not have know-how to
use them in cooking"; "at meals they eat with their fingers
from a small dish with attached base"; and "they are fond of
drinking wine . "
Looking back over the thousand-year-old food traditions

of Japan, I take great comfort in seeing how little some of the
basic food preparations have changed over time. Sometimes
I am perplexed by the people outside of Japan feeling the
urge to experiment with these age-old methods: Why change
something that has made sense for more than a millennium?
This is not an argument to be conservative or avoid
creativity, but more a request to make choices that make
sense to the original intent and integrity of the methods.
JOMON PERIOD (cA 12,000 BCE-400 BCE):

EARTHENWARE
Japanese food history can be traced in a simple, logical

timeline starting with the hunting and gathering cultures
of prehistoric Japan during the J omon period. In Neolithic
times (8000 BCE), there was a massive climate shift inJapan,
changing from cold and dry to warm and humid.
17 E3*~0)~5':. A HISTORY OF JAPANESE FOOD

The warmer, moister air in turn contributed to a rise in the
sea level, thus creating a coastal environment more suitable
for the proliferation of fish and shellfish. The warmer
climate encouraged the growth of lush forests. Food supplies
became more constant, so settling near both coastline and
forest became possible. Previously, Jomon people roamed
the land hunting large animals such as mammoths, reindeer,
bison, and horses. This was because the harsh subarctic
climate yielded little in the way of edible plants and the
Jomon people had yet to develop fishing techniques. No
longer nomadic, they began to live in settlements where
they hunted boar and deer using bows and arrows; gathered
acorns, walnuts, and chestnuts in the forests; and fished in
the sea using primitive hooks.
Neolithic culture also brought the advent of earthenware
vessels-some of the oldest in the world. With earthenware
came the ability to boil foods, altering the way thatJomon
people ate. TheJomon period also introduced the practice
of using ash to remove bitterness or toxins from mountain
vegetables and acorns, a practice still in use today. The food
of the period took on a much higher level of sophistication
and flavoring: Salt was boiled down from seawater or salty
seaweed, sanshopepper was picked from trees in the forest for
seasoning, konbu [kelp] was gathered from the sea to make dashi
[broth], and the first nabe [one-pot-dishes] were recorded
in theJomon period. Jomon man fashioned hooks from
their bones to catch fish and the evidence of large-scale fish
preservation in theJomon period suggests that preserved fish
was used for both food and barter.
YAYOI PERIOD (cA 400 BCE-200 cE):

AGRICULTURAL REVOLUTION
The Yayoi period is known as the era of agricultural revo-

lution, which resulted in population growth. As agrarian
technology became more sophisticated, higher crop yields
were able to feed more people and the quality of life
improved. The custom of having one's personal teacup,
rice bowl, soup bowl, and chopsticks can be traced back
to this era, as is evidenced from similar sized and shaped
unglazed earthenware eating vessels in Yayoi homes,
uncovered from the late second and third century.
Most notable in this period was the beginning of wet-
rice cultivation, a method borrowed from China. Also
cultivated were kibi and awa [millets] , wheat, soybeans, and
fruit (citrus, peaches, melons)-all from China; and barley
and az.ukibeans from Korea. Yayoi also saw domestication
of chickens, which were regarded as treasured talismans,
not food. Cattle and horses were used strictly for aiding with
18 B;$::itO)/fiH!: A HISTORY OF JAPANESE FOOD

farm work, and pigs were raised on a small scale to be eaten.
Japanese cooking and preserving methods have deep
roots , and rice cooking is no exception. The methods used
today for boiling everyday short-grainJaponica rice and
steaming glutinous rice for festivals has little changed since
the Yayoi period. That fact alone gives one pause to consider
the awesomeness of such a phenomenon : The preparation
for the most basic daily food of Japan has not altered in over
two thousand years.
Up until the Yayoi period, alcohol produced by the
Japanese was the chew-and-spit-based kind seen in some
indigenous cultures all over the world. However, during the
Yayoi period, koji spores began to be used for sake making .
More than likely, this sake brewing know-how came to
Japan from China along with the wet-rice cultivation.
Yayoi also saw an increase in preserved and fermented
fish preparations such as shiokara[salt-fermented fish entrails]
and fish sauce, because these were originally made from
freshwater fish and were thus tied to wet-rice cultivation.
Ancient shiokara,was more paste-like than the modern
version, and only a tiny salty dab was eaten with rice . Shiokara
and fish sauce are still consumed inJapan, though not as
part of the daily diet. Modern -day shiokarais fermented from
the creamy stomach contents of seafood such as squid, and
is mixed with salt, aromatics , and raw julienned pieces of
seafood , eaten as a small bite to accompany sake. The method
of producing gyosho [fish sauce] has not changed much since
ancient times, although nowadays fish sauce producers
salt the whole fish rather than just the guts , to make the
condiment more universally palatable. Although previously
made all over Japan, currently the two main fish sauce
producing areas are Ishikawa prefecture on the Sea of Japan
northwest of Tokyo and Akita prefecture in the far north of
Honshu, the main island of Japan.
NARA PERIOD (710-794-): PRECURSOR

OF SOY SAUCE
While Buddhism was introduced to Japan via Korea right

after Yayoi in the Kofun (Tumulus) period (250-710),
its followers remained few. It was in the Nara period,
that Buddhism spread throughout the populace and the
government as well-though ultimately it was not recognized
as the official religion of Japan.
With Buddhism came the further development of
fermented soy products due to the religion's soy-based diet.
Soy sauce, as we know it today, did not develop for another
five hundred years in the mid-I200s, but the earliest form
of soy sauce was extracted from hishio [a fermented mash
19 B*tl:O)}J[~ A HISTORY OF JAPANESE FOOD

of soybeans and salt, which sometimes contained a small
amount of wheat] in 771 during Nara.
HEIAN PERIOD (794-II92) :

COURT EXTRAVAGANCE
Culture was generally transmitted to Japan from Korea and

China. And during the Formative Years, from the sixth
century to the end of the fifteenth century , Japan absorbed
a huge body of borrowed food culture that was ultimately
assimilated into Japan's own foodways, making them
uniquely Japanified. This pattern of absorption and Japan's
ability to alter other countries' food customs to render them
distinctly Japanese continues today. Arguably, some of the
most creative French and Italian food can be found inJapan ,
because Japanese chefs use classicalJapanese techniques in
their approach to French and Italian cuisine, resulting in
a thoughtful interpretation of the food.
The Heian period is often characterized as a time when
court culture flourished. The robes and headdresses that
Heian nobility wore were as ornate and elaborate as the
food . The court banquets were not only social occasions,
but also important political gatherings. Small portable tables
and chopsticks were introduced in the eighth century, at
the beginning of Heian. The trays were either oshiki [flat]
or ,zen [had short legs]-essentially small, portable tables.
Chopsticks-initially used in conjunction with a spoon (but
later dropped)-have been the sole implement for eating
Japanese food for thousands of years. This explains why
Japanese food is cut into small pieces and served in multiple,
individual small bowls and plates-you pick up each bowl and
bring it near your mouth when eating with chopsticks.
KAMAKURA PERIOD (1192-1336):

IRON POTS
The advent of iron pots in the Kamakura period resulted in

a shift toward serving hot food at banquets. Compared with
the use of earthenware vessels, iron pots provided a more
efficient way of boiling vegetables and sea greens , giving rise
to shojin ryori [a vegetable- and soy - based temple cuisine].
Kelp broth and aemono [dressed dishes] were first prepared
in the monasteries, but quickly spread to the banquet
cuisine of this era. Concurrent with this advanced
technique of boiling and dressing vegetables , came the
conception of the convenient suribachi [grinding bowl]-
a tool that has sadly lost favor to electric grinders in the
modern Japanese kitchen.
20 B,tsjll:O)~~ A HISTORY OF JAPANESE FOOD

The first print mention of tofu in was in n83. Yuba
[the creamy skin that forms on the surface of soy milk as it
heats during tofu-making] was also a delicacy enjoyed by
the monks and upper classes of Japan. The Zen Buddhist
monks brought many cooking methods from China, and the
samurai ruling class adopted these methods.
MUROMACHI PERIOD (r336-1573),

HONZEN RYORI
Muromachi follows Kamakura as the second part of Japan's

medieval period . The samurai, who came into power in this
era, eschewed the excesses of the Heian nobility; and as they
strived to introduce more austere dining, food was no longer
the center of court life. Many of the samurai came from
humble origins and valued simplicity and substance in their
fare. They also gravitated toward foods and dishes developed
by Zen monks-the polar opposite of the rarified dishes
favored by the Heian court. Serving hot food at auspicious
occasions had become popular, and the samurai introduced
hon,zenryori-a style of banquet eating involving multiple trays.
More trays meant a more sumptuous banquet. The trays
were made oflacquered wood, as were the lidded bowls, with
each bowl type designated for a specific type of dish. In time,
hon,zenryori rivaled the Heian banquets for ostentation, and the
samurai had veered from their original simple style of eating.
Many staple foods that are still common to the modern
Japanese diet developed toward the end of Muromuchi.
For example, udon [simple, thick wheat noodles requiring the
least skill to produce] appeared first, in the mid-fourteenth
century. Then, about one hundred years later, in the mid-
fifteenth century, came finer noodles such as soba [buckwheat
noodles] and somen [a fine hand-pulled wheat noodle still
popular in the summer all over Japan]. This most likely
coincided with an increase in the woodworking technology
of Japan, which enabled the production of large boards
to roll out the dough. Before the advent of soba noodles,
buckwheat was used to make sobag'!)u [gruel] or sobagaki
[polenta-like dumplings].
Manju [red bean-stuffed steamed buns] and mochi
[pounded glutinous rice], eaten as a midday snack with tea,
also date from this ancient time in Japan. And miso soup,
as we know it today, appeared during Muromachi.
The fifteenth and sixteenth centuries were characterized
by a dynamic energy stemming from social resistance.
Townspeople and farmers alike resisted the feudal lords. Old
order collapsed and new movements flourished, resulting in
phenomenal creative growth. This social climate gave rise to
some of the most important Japanese arts that still exist today,
21 8,l;::t;t0)~9:'. A HISTORY OF JAPANESE FOOD

noh [drama], 9ogen [comic theater], kabuki [theater], and
ikebana [the art of flower arrangement]. The concept of wabi
[simple imperfection with a clear heart] accompanied the tea
ceremony of this period, also known as the way of tea.
The end of Muromachi to the beginning of Edo
(sixteenth to seventeenth century) is dubbed the Age
of Change. During this time, great advances were made
in farming techniques, ceramic-making flourished,
di stribution channels became more organized, and trade
with the outside world significantly expanded; sugar imports
from Southeast Asia increased dramatically, leading to a
proliferation of western sweets. Plants such as pumpkin,
sweet potato, chile pepper, and tobacco were introduced.
EDO PERIOD (1600-1868) :

NATIONAL ISOLATION
The Edo period makes up most of what historians call

the Early Modern Age. In 1635, at the end of the Age of
Change, lemitsu Tokugawa, shogun of Japan, issued a decree
of national isolation called the Sakoku Edict. During this
period (which lasted two hundred years) Japanese honed and
refined the borrowed cultures , and artifacts that had come
from foreign sources. Foreign borrowed foods such as manju,
tempura, fried croquettes , mu:utaki[chicken stew], acharazuk
e
[Indian-style pickles], and castela (a popular cake resembling
pound cake) become wholly and irrevocably Japanese . All
of these foods, with the possible exception of acharazuke,were
brought to Japan by the Portuguese . Trade routes within
Japan promoted trade among regions , giving birth to the
marriage of konbu [dried kelp] from Hokkaido in the north
and katsuobushi[smoked , fermented, sun - dried skipjack tuna]
from Kagoshima in the south . The result was one of Japanese
cuisine's most important and basic components-dashi [broth].
Sake and shochu brewing methods were further developed
during this period, as were the fermentation methods for
soy sauce, rice vinegar, and mirin. These traditional brewing
and fermentation methods are still used in contemporary
Japan, though only by a handful of artisanal producers.
The period also saw the growth in popularity of the tea
ceremony, which filtered down from the nobility to the well-
to-do merchant class . With the tea ceremony came kaiseki
ryori, food that at its heart favored simplicity and shunned
opulence-a reaction against the excesses of honzenryori(which
itself had been a reaction against Heian extravagance) . The
original menu for kaisekiryori, served on a kaiseki;:,en[a legless
tray], was restrained and consisted ofichijusansei: one soup,
three side dishes , and one bowl of rice. (So much has been
added to modern kaisekithat it bear s almost no resemblance
22 82$:]tO)~~ A HISTORY OF JAPA N ESE FOOD

to its original version.) Also essential to kaisekiryoriare the
dishes themselves and how the food is placed on the plate.
The beauty is in the form and the "heart" of objects such as
teacups, even, or maybe particularly, those that are flawed.
The empty space on the plate is just as important as where the
food has been placed, and symmetry should be avoided .
Japan ese ceramics thrived during Edo and reached high
levels of quality relatively quickly. Even today , ceramics,
as well as lacqu erware and glass, are essential to the
presentation of Japanese cuisine.
The following is a surprisingly modern-seeming menu
that was prepared and recorded by Sen Senso Shoshitsu ,
a grandmaster of kaiseki, in the beginning of Edo, a few
decades after the decree of national isolation. The simple
purity of these Edo period dishes still hold up today as an
ideal toward which to strive when creating a seasonal menu .
1688, 9th month, 25 th day , Noon (Sen Soshitsu 1996,90)

Guests : Asano Jirobei; other guests not listed. Held at
Fushin'an.
Pickle Course (ko no mono)

Grilled Course 0iakimono)
Grilled dried sea bream
Hagi ware plate
Miso Soup Course (shiru)
Vegetables
Both rice and soup bowls have a design of stylized cherry

leaves and flowers in cinnabar on a black ground (Rikyu' s
Yoshinowan)
Citron miso ; Rice Course (meshi)

Raw Fish Course (sashimi)
Harvest Fish (managatsuo)
Octopus
Ginger vinegar sauce
Raku plate , diamond shaped
Thin Soup Course (suimono)
Spiny Lobster (iseebi)
Course of D elicacies to Eat with Sake (sakana)
Nothing specified
Sweet Course (kashi)
Chestnut rice cake
Dried gourd
23 B;:$:~OJ~.',t'. A HISTORY OF JAPA NE SE FOOD

RICE CULTIVATION AND
CONSUMPTION
Wet-rice cultivation came to Japan from China in the third

century BCE, and from then ·on most of Japan became an
agrarian-rather than hunting and gathering-society. The
Ainu in Hokkaido and the Ryukyus in Okinawa were the two
notable exceptions of populations that did not embrace rice
cultivation and instead continued hunting and gathering
as a way of life for another several hundred years.
Rice grows well all over Asia thanks to the warm humid
weather during the summer. Because of the paddy-style of
wet cultivation, there is little soil erosion, so rice can be
planted each year without crop rotation. While it is well
suited to the native climate, rice is also a good source of
protein and calories to feed Japan's population. Rice has
been an essential part oftheJapanese diet for the last five
hundred years and was used as the currency for paying
taxes until the mid-r8oos. Rice remains an integral part
of traditional Japanese celebratory days, such as eating mochi
during the New Year celebration. Rituals surrounding rice
planting and harvesting, while no longer widespread, are
still celebrated by some farming families.
One might think that ancient Japanese consumed true
brown rice (hulled, but not polished), however there seems
to be evidence to the contrary. Since true brown rice needs
to soak at least twenty hours, then cook slowly for several
hours, it would have been impractical for Japanese farmers
to spend time tending to rice when they could be working
the fields. (Note that what we think of as brown rice is really
commercial brown rice, which is slightly polished and takes
much less time to cook than true brown rice.) Before the
introduction of hulling tools in the late seventeenth century,
Japanese removed rice hulls by pounding them in the same
mortar- usu [a hollowed out wooden tree trunk]-that is
used today for mochi pounding. Pounding with the kinu
[heavy wooden mallet] naturally removed part of the bran
as well as the hulls, so the resulting brown rice was partially
polished. The custom of consuming polished white rice
gained favor among the wealthy and city dwellers during the
seventeenth century, though this practice also brought on
a rise in the incidence of beriberi disease. A lack of vitamin
Br in the supplemental foods of that time facilitated the
deficiency, and the disease was known as "the Edo sickness."
With the advent of wet-rice cultivation came the emer-
gence of freshwater fish-based fermentation and preserving
methods because small fishes thrived in the flooded rice
fields. Nare;zushi,a type of fermented fish developed in the
seventeenth century and was eaten all over Japan. Salted, raw
fish is packed in barrels with rice, rice koji, and vegetables,
24 B ,t;;]tO)~~ A HISTORY OF JAPANESE FOOD

then left to ferment over a couple months. The solids are
wiped off and only the lactic-fermented fish is eaten. The
area around Lake Biwa near Kyoto, the largest freshwater
lake in Japan, is currently the only place in Japan producing
narezushicommercially.
MEAT TABOO
The first prohibition against consuming meat was in the year

675 and was perhaps implemented to prevent endangering the
small population of animals of burden (cows and horses) that
provided support to the burgeoning agricultural industry.
Subsequent bans against killing living things were put in
place by emperors and empresses who practiced Buddhism .
Shinto, Japan's native religion, discouraged eating meat
because of the impurities that came from being in contact
with blood (though there is no express Shinto taboo against
killing sea creatures). Because fowl were sacred, no ban was
required to prohibit killing and eating them. Even during
meat bans, hunters still killed and ate deer and boar, though
this was done quietly (and sometimes meat was dubbed
"medicine" and consumed as such). So despite a long
institutionalized policy of no meat eating, meat was eaten
at times.
Nonetheless, along with soybeans, fish (including whale
and dolphin) became an important source of protein-which
it remained for generations of Japanese for thousands of
years. Dairy also provided some protein: So, a form of
cheese made by simmering down milk to a solid substance,
first appeared in the year 700, during the Heian period.
Other than the handful of dairy cows bred to produce so,
the dairy industry did not evolve in Japan until the twentieth
century. By 1975, there was one dairy cow for every fifty
people, and milk has been a standard part of school lunches
since the 1990s.
Modern Japanese eat meat without compunction, but
it still represents a small component in most traditional
dishes, rather than the main attraction.
Ultimately , the food we make should taste good. After

all, these traditional methods would not have survived for
more than a thousand years if they did not make sense at
an elemental level. And following these methods faithfully
shows respect for the history and context of the food.
25 8:;;js:]1:0)~~ A HISTORY OF JAPANESE FOOD

•
zensa1
BE F ORE THE M EAL

ZENSAI - BEFORE THE MEAL
Zf nsai dishes are small bites served before a meal and are
typically created from the bits and pieces left over from
preparing the meal. They embody the motoinoi philosophy
of no waste. These bites are most commonly served on one
plate, but can also be arranged in individual dishes on a
tray. The zensoi course awakens the appetite and is normally
accompanied by a glass of beer or sake.
While there is much talk regarding the correct number
of items on traditional Japanese plate (i.e., avoiding taboo
numbers such as four and instead favoring three or five
items on a plate), I derive great comfort in the lack of
conformity to convention that some of my more creative
chef friends follow. One local chef sets his zensai bites on
square, round, or rectangular plates anywhere from three
to six morsels at a time. It is up to what is available on any
given day-and his whim. I love that, and look forward to
this course each time I visit the restaurant.
Whereas at a favorite Japanese inn on the Noto
Peninsula , the zensai course is part of a carefully thought out
meal, and is the opening act, so to speak. The raised lacquer
trays are prepared in the kitchen most commonly with a
dish of oemono [dressed]. perhaps some house-smoked fish
such as s191uri[half-beak] , and a set of chopsticks are tucked
into a folded piece of washi Uapanese calligraphy paper].
According to the inn keeper, Sakamoto , chopsticks should
not be set on chopstick rests when using a tray since the side
of the tray fulfills that job. As soon as the guests sit down
and order their drinks, vinegar-washed sashimi tossed with
grated daikon is added to the tray and immediately served .
At home, you can present zensai in a way that matches
your own life or serving style. Theoretically, dishes from
the Aemono, Namamono , Nimono, and ltamemono
chapters can work, though it is important to avoid runny
preparations since they will interfere with the other dishes
on the plate . Rather than obsessing on form or rules,
flexibility is the hallmark of a creative kitchen.
30 il'J~ ZENSAI - BEFORE THE MEAL

BUTTERED NEGI
Preparation tim e : 5 minutes Negi (Japanese leeks] grow almost all In a medium frying pan, melt the
Cooking tin1e: IO minutes year long , though the stalks of the butter over medium heat and slide
Serves, 4 summer negido tend to hollow out in the grilled negi. Toss for l-2
a bit. The negihere is grilled, and minutes and season with the salt
3 medium negi or 9 fat scallions then finished with butter. and pepper . Scrape into a ceramic
(spring onions , 7 oz/200 g), cut into serving bowl and serve hot as a bite
2-inch (5 cm) lengths Char over a low - ember fire, or heat before dinner.
l tablespoon (15 g) unsalted butter a cast iron grill pan over high heat
• ½ teaspoon flaky sea salt and grill the negipieces until soft
'I•teaspoon freshly ground and slightly charred , 3-5 minutes.
black pepper
GINKGO NUTS ON SKEWERS
Preparation time: 15 minutes Hauntingly bitter, yet naturally Discard the shells and fold the
Cooking time: IO minutes sweet, ginkgo nuts also have an nuts inside the towel. Rub off the
Serves, 6 appealing springy texture, and when brown, papery skins by pressing the
served along with the flaky salt, are palms of your hands on top of the
l tablespoon canola (rapeseed) oil addictive. Take care not to eat more towel covering the nuts and rolling
l cup (14 oz/ 400 g) unshelled ginkgo than two skewers at one sitting, as the nuts back and forth with your
nuts (about 36) ginkgo contains a neurotoxin that palms.
2 tablespoons sake can cause poisoning if consumed
1
/2 teaspoon flaky sea salt to excess. Heat the frying pan again over
medium-high and add the nuts,
In a large frying pan, heat the oil sake, and salt . Toss until the sake
over medium-high heat. Add the evaporates and some of the finer
ginkgo nuts and roast , shaking salt crystals melt, about 2 minutes.
occasionally, until the shells split, Thread the ginkgo nuts , 3 at a time,
5-7 minutes. Slide out of the pan onto small bamboo skewers and
onto a clean dry tea towel. Once serve hot as a bite before dinner.
cooled, remove from the shells.
SPICY STEAMED CARROT STEMS
Preparation time: 45 minutes Carrot stems usually go into the Cook over low heat for l minute .
Cooking time, 5 minutes compost or to the chickens, but Add the carrot stems and simmer
Makes, 1'/• cup (300 ml) steaming them in spicy soy sauce for 1-3 minutes until the sterns
dashiis a clever and deliciously have softened but still retain some
Carrot tops from 8 small or 2 large thrifty way of using the stems bite . The liquid should be almost
bunches carrots as a savory bite . This can be completely simmered away. If not,
4 tablespoons Katsuobushi Dashi accompanied by a glass of sake. skim out the sterns and simmer the
(page 156) liquid for about l more minute to
2 tablespoons soy sauce Pare off all of the leaf fronds from reduce . Serve in a small bowl with
, l tablespoon mirin the carrot tops so you are left only the lingering simmering liquids.
• l tablespoon sake with stems. You should have It keeps well in the refrigerator for
1
/2 dried redjapanese chile , 3 1/2 oz (100 g). Cut the sterns several days .
finely chopped into 11/2-inch (4 cm) lengths. In a
saucepan, bring the dashi,soy sauce,
mirin, sake, and chile to a simmer.
31 ZENSAI - BEFORE THE MEAL

DAIKON PEEL KINPIRA
Preparation time: IO minutes Here, in the spirit of no-waste , 30 seconds more until excess liquid
Cooking time, 5 minutes daikonpeels (saved, for example, evaporates. Sprinkle in the black
Serves, 4 from Daikon with Sweet Miso, sesame seeds and salt and slide
page 40) are sauteed and seasoned into a small ceramic serving bowl.
½ tablespoon gold sesame oil with soy sauce and mirin at the last Serve hot or at room temperature.
Peels from I medium (2 2h-lb/1.2 kg) second. It keeps well for several days, if
daikon, sliced into fine threads refrigerated.
• ½ tablespoon soy sauce In a medium frying pan , heat the
• ½ tablespoon mirin oil over medium - high heat until @ P-33
½ tablespoon black sesame seeds, hot but not smoking. Throw in the
warmed in a small , dry frying pan daikon peels and toss until wilted,
• I very small pinch of flaky sea salt about 30 seconds. Drizzle in the
soy sauce and mirin and cook for
DAIKON AND TUNA SALAD
Preparation time: 40 minutes Adding daikon, daikonsprouts , Make the salad ,

Serves, 6 and wakameto this deconstructed Drain the wakame, pat dry in a
Western-style tuna-mayo clean tea towel, and cut crosswise
For the Japanese mayonnaise, mix results in an interesting into ¾ - inch (2 cm) pieces. In a
I ultrafresh egg yolk, at room combination of textures and medium bowl, toss together the
temperature flavors . Serve as a light supper or daikon, daikonsprouts (except a few
¼ teaspoon mustard powder part of a cold collation . sprigs to be saved for garnish),
• I teaspoon rice vinegar wakame, and tuna with the sesame
• About 'I•cup (6 fl oz/180-200 ml) Make the Japanese mayonnaise, seeds, salt, and shisopowder .
canola (rapeseed( oil In a small bowl, whisk together the
• I pinch of fine sea salt egg yolk , mustard, and vinegar. Whisk the soy sauce into the
½ teaspoon mild honey Slowly whisk in some of the oil mayonnaise, drizzle over the
until emulsified. As the mixture salad, and toss until incorporated .
For the salad, begins to thicken , continue adding Mound into a serving bowl
I½ tablespoons dried wakame , soaked the oil in a steady stream , whisking and sprinkle with the reserved
in cold water for 20 minutes until the mayonnaise is thick. Stir daikonsprouts.
• IO½ oz (300 g) daikon, scrubbed and in the salt and honey. Set aside
finely julienned while you make the salad .
I large handful daikon sprouts , cut off
their sponge base
2 cans (5 oz/140 g each) water-packed
solid white tuna , drained and flaked
• I tablespoon white sesame seeds,
warmed in a small dry frying pan
• ¼ teaspoon flaky sea salt
2 teaspoons dried red shiso powder
• I teaspoon soy sauce
I cup (8 fl oz / 250 ml) Japanese
Mayonnaise

STIR-FRIED FAVA BEANS
Preparation time: IO minutes Fava (broad) bean season is fleeting until the beans are blistered on
Cooking time : 5 minute s and is much anticipated as spring both sides , about 2 minutes.
Serves: 6 , as a small bite approaches. A top-quality gold Splash in the soy sauce and mirin,
sesame oil will render these bean s tossing to cook off the liqu id for
2 tablespoons gold or black sesame oil sublime. Serve with drinks before a few seconds . Once the last bit of
2 3/• lb (1.25 kg) fr es h fava (broad) dinner . liquid has sizzled away, sprinkle in
beans, shelled the salt and toss for 30 seconds to
2 tablespoons soy sauce In a large frying pan with sloped distribute. Transfer to a serving
• I tablespoon mirin sides or a wok, heat the oil over bowl and serve hot. Pop the whole
I large pinch of flaky sea salt medium heat until it starts to be an in your mouth, but don 't eat
shimmer. Slide in the fava (broad) the tough skin.
bean s and stir - fry , turning
occasionally with a pair of tongs, [Q] P-35
KONBU-WRAPPED KONNYAKU
Preparation time: 35 minutes For this vegetarian-version of konbu Set the rolls in a small saucepan
Cooking time: 5 minutes rolls , kon,;ryaku
(page 433) substitutes and add the dashi, sake, soy sauce,
Makes: 6 small rolls for the more typical simmered and mirin. Place a otoshibuta[droplid]
meats such pork or chicken. or piece of parchment paper on top
6 - by 9-inch (15 by 22 .5 cm) piece of the rolls and bring to a simmer
konbu Brush the konbuwith the vinegar to over medium-low heat. Cook for
½ table spoo n ric e vinegar soft en and soak the kanJ!Yostrands 20 minutes , tilting and swirling the
2 strands kanpyo [dried gourd], cut in cold water to cover for 20 pan to distribute the simmering
crosswise in to thirds minutes . Set the kon,;ryaku
batons in liquid, until the konbu ha s softened
9 oz (250g) konnyaku, cut into six a wire - mesh sieve and pour a steady and absorbed flavor. Serve at room
½to¾ x 3-inch (r tor½ x 7.5 cm) stream of boiling water over them temperature.
batons for IO seconds. Cut the konbu into
• Boiling water six 3 - inch (7.5 cm) squares. Plac e
r' /• cup (300 ml) Katsuobushi Dashi a kon,;ryakubaton lengthwise a little
(page 156) ways in from the edge of the konbu
4 tablespoons sake squ are and roll up . Secure each
2 tablespoons soy sauce with a piece of reconstituted kanpyo.
• I tablespoon mirin
KONBU WITH UMEBOSHI
Preparation time: IO minutes Recycling konbu infused with the Mash the mirin into the umeboshi.
Serves: 4, as a small bite vegetal overtones from having Slice or snip the konbu into '/• - inch
wicked moisture out of greens is (6 mm) thin strips and toss with
· I tablespoon mirin a clever way to avoid waste. Save your fing ers to encourage slippery
I tabl espoon fin ely chopped umebo shi the konbu from either of the kelp- threads to generate. Fold in the
[salt e d so ur plum] wicked nanohanarecipes (page 38) to smashed umeboshiand serve a small
2 squares (6 inches/r5 cm each) konbu make this dish. mound as part of a zensaiplate .
(leftover from kelp-wicked nanohana,
page 38)

KONNYAKU WITH POPPY SEEDS
Preparation time: IO minutes The subtle flavoring of this dish In a saucepan, combine the
Cooking time: 15 minutes warrants tracking down organic dashi, soy sauce, and mirin. Drop
Serves, 6 kon'!)'aku[konjac] for best results. in the kon'!)'akuslices, bring to a
It also holds up well if stored in the simmer and cook gently, swirling
2 teaspoons white poppy seeds or white refrigerator, so it is handy to have occasionally, until the liquid
sesame seeds around for a ready-made addition has reduced to a bare film, 7-10
9 oz (250 g) konnyaku, cut into 2-inch to a quick meal. minutes . Spoon the kon'!J'akuout
(5 cm) squares of the simmering liquid into a
• Boiling water In a small dry frying pan, lightly pretty bowl, sprinkle with the white
• % cup (5 fl oz/150 ml) Katsuobushi toast the seeds for a few seconds and poppy or sesame seeds, and serve.
Dashi (page 156) slide into a bowl. Cut the kon'!Yaku It is equally good hot or at room
2 teaspoons soy sauce squares into slices 1/• inch (6 mm) temperature.
• I teaspoon mirin thick, place in a wire-mesh sieve ,
and pour a steady stream of boiling
water over them for IO seconds.
QUAIL EGGS
AND CHICKEN BALLS
Preparation time, 25 minutes The sweet and savory glaze makes In a medium frying pan, heat the
Cooking time: 20 minutes these good to serve with beer. If oil over medium-low heat. Add the
Serves: 4 you like spice, double the shichimi meatballs and cook for about
togarashi. 2 minutes on each side, rolling the
8 quail eggs, at room temperature meatballs around until browned all
4 tablespoons Katsuobushi Dashi Bring a small saucepan of water to over, for a total of about 6 minutes.
(page 156) a boil over high heat. Place the Turn the meatballs over to their
l tablespoon soy sauce quail eggs in a slotted spoon and flattest side, cover , reduce the heat
• l tablespoon mirin lower into the boiling water. Adjust to low, and cook for 2 minutes
IO oz (285 g) finely ground to a brisk simmer and cook for more, turning once after I minute.
(minced) chicken 3 minutes. Scoop the eggs out and
I chicken egg, at room temperature place in a bowl of cold water set Thread 2 chicken balls and 2
• Generous 1/, cup (1 oz/30 g) panko in the kitchen sink. Refresh under quail eggs onto bamboo skewers,
• ½ teaspoon flaky sea salt cold, running water until cool to alternating ball and egg, ball and
· ¼ teaspoon freshly ground the touch. Peel. egg (so that a chicken ball is at the
black pepper bottom of the stick and an egg is
¼ teaspoon shichimi togarashi In a small saucepan, bring the dashi, on the top). Brush lightly with the
[seven-spice powder] soy sauce, and mirinto a rolling glaze, sprinkle with white sesame
2 tablespoons canola (rapeseed) oil boil over medium-high heat. seeds, and serve warm.
I teaspoon white sesame seeds, warmed Cook, swirling occasionally, until
in a small, dry frying pan large, frothy bubbles form and the @ p .37
mixture is reduced to a medium-
thick glaze, 3-5 minutes.
In a bowl, combine the ground

(minced) chicken, egg , panko, salt,
pepper, and shichimitogarashiand mix
together with chopsticks until well
incorporated, but don't overwork
the meat. Form rounded teaspoons
of the meat into balls about the
same size as the quail eggs.
lltr~ ZENSAI - BEFORE THE MEAL

KELP-WICKED NANOHANA
Preparation time: 15 minutes, plus Kelp-wicking is a]apanese method Lay the nanohanaacross th e konbu.
overnight wicking to firm raw fish for sashimi and can If the konbu is pliable, roll it into
Cooking time: 5 minutes also be used on vegetables to infuse a large burrito-like shape and wrap
Serves: 6 them with a slight taste of the sea. in plastic wrap (clingfilm). If your
konbu is stiff, sandwich the nanohana
9½ oz (270 g) nanohana (page 436) Bring a large pot of water to a boil between 2 pieces and wrap in
or broccoli rabe (rapini) over high heat. Lower the nanohana plastic wrap. Let the nanohanawick
2 pieces (6 inches/15 cm) dried konbu, stem ends into the water, and do in the konbu for at least 4 hours or
or I piece (8 inches/20 cm) pliable not let go. Count to IO or 20, overnight before serving as is or
konbu (preferably rausu) depending on the thickness of the with some freshly shaved katsuobushi.
Freshly shaved katsuobushi stems. Drop the nanohanainto the Julienne the konbu, if you like, and
or hanakatsuo (optional) boiling water and submerge with mound alongside for serving. If it
· Soy sauce (optional) a wooden spoon. Cook until the needs salt, sprinkle with a drop or
nanohanais pliable but hasn ' t lost its two of soy sauce .
structural integrity , I-2 minutes
more, depending on thickness.
Drain and refresh under cold
running water or in an ice bath.
Drain well and pat dry.
KELP- AND VINEGAR-WICKED

NANOHANA
Preparation time: IO minutes , plus This method of wicking involves and squeeze down to the tips of the
3 hours soaking and wicking time brushing konbuwith rice vinegar leaves to remove as much water as
Cooking time: 5 minutes and sake. The slight sour note the you can.
Serves: 4 vinegar adds takes a slight edge
off of the naturally bitter nanohana Dump any excess sake and rice
12-inch (30 cm) piece konbu, (page 436). vinegar from the konbu container
halved crosswise and lay the greens across one of
I tablespoon brown rice vinegar Place the konbu in a shallow, the konbu pieces . Smooth the other
• I tablespoon sake rectangular plastic or metal konbupiece on top of the greens,
¼ teaspoon flaky sea salt container just big enough to hold enclose in plastic wrap (clingfilm) ,
· Fine sea salt it and spoon the rice vinegar and pack in a resealable plastic bag,
I medium bunch nanohana or broccoli sakeover the konbu. Sprinkle in the and refrigerate for at least 2 hours
rabe (rapini) flaky sea salt, tip the container to before serving as a side vegetable .
distribute all of the ingredients ,
cover, and let soak for I hour to It is best within the first 24 hours
absorb the juices. but stays well for at least 3 days,
when stored in the refrigerator.
Bring a large pot of salted water Save the wicking konbu to prepare
to a boil over high heat. Lower Konbu with Umeboshi (page 34).
the nanohanastem ends into the
water, but do not let go. Count
to IO, then drop them all into the
boiling water and submerge with
a wooden spoon . Blanch for I- 2
minutes more, depending on the
thickness of the stems. Drain and
refresh under cold running water
until cooled. Align the stem ends

SHISO-WRAPPED
SHISHITO PEPPERS
Preparation time: IO minutes Great as a hot bite before dinner Sprinkle with the salt. Working
Cooking time: 5 minutes with drinks . quickly , set each shishitoat the base
Makes, 24 peppers of one shisoleaf (shiny side down),
In a large frying pan, heat the roll up one rotation , fold the leaf
• I tablespoon gold sesame oil sesame oil over medium - high heat sides in, and roll all the way up
24 shishito peppers , tips clipped, until hot but not smoking . Fry to make a neat package. Repeat
leaving ¼ inch (5 mm) of the stem the shishitofor about I minute until with the remaining shishitoand shiso
• I tablespoon soy sauce they start to blister (but have not leaves. Arrange on a medium plate
• ½ tablespoon mirin collapsed). Add the soy sauce and and serve warm .
• I large pinch flaky salt mirin and tilt the pan back and forth
24 small green shiso leaves for a few seconds to coat the shishito.
SHISO-FLAVORED MISO
Preparation time: IO minutes , plus Miso and shisoare often paired Chop the shisoand fold into the
½ day air-drying together. Here the semi-dried miso with the mirin, sake , and sesame
Cooking time: 5 minutes shisoinfuses the miso for a salty oil. Scrape the miso mixture into
Makes: ½ cup (r35 g) condiment or for fresh vegetables. a saucepan. Cook, stirring and
This misois also tasty with 2 or smashing over low heat, until some
24 green shiso leaves, about ½ oz (15 g) 3 small cloves of smashed garlic of the liquid has cooked out and
· Boiling water added before cooking. the mixture has slightly thickened
Generous 1/, cup (3½ oz/Ioo g) brown and is fragrant , 2-3 minutes.
rice miso or barley miso Set the shisoleaves in a wire - mesh
• I½ tablespoon mirin sieve and pour a steady stream
· I½ tablespoon sake of boiling water over them for
½ tablespoon gold sesame oil IO seconds. Pat dry and lay on
absorbent paper towels. Set outside
in a shady spot for half a day to
air - dry.
GREEN PEPPER MISO
Preparation time: 15 minutes Make this condiment when green 2-3 minutes. Add the shiso and
Cooking time: 5 minutes peppers and shiso are in season. peanuts and continue stir-frying
Serves: 6 Use dolloped on the side of a bowl for 1~2 minutes more. Scrape
of white rice , or as a savory bite on into a small bowl and fold in the
I tablespoon gold sesame oil a zensai plate. piman. Store refrigerated for up
4 tablespoons brown rice miso to 2 weeks.
• 2 tablespoons mirin In a small frying pan, warm the
3 tablespoons chopped green sesame oil over low heat and add
shiso leaves the misoand mirin. Stir-fry gently
2 tablespoons unsalted, roasted, with a flat wooden spoon for
chopped peanuts
7 oz (200 g) piman or small green
peppers, cored, seeded, and diced

DAIKON WITH SWEET MISO
Preparation time: 15 minutes Farmers in more and more has cooked through , but is not
Cooking time: IO minutes countries are growing daikonlocally, mushy, for 8-IO minutes, scoop
Serves, 6 so soon there may be no need for out of the konbuwater with a spider
cooks to buy imported. Earthy (skimmer) and drain.
I lb (450 g) daikon , peeled (see Note) misotempers the pungency of this
• 6-inch (15 cm) piece konbu naturally hot radish, while the In a small bowl, combine the misos.
• 3 tablespoons soybean miso seven - spice powder adds a welcome Muddle the mirin into the miso to
2 tablespoons brown rice miso kick . It is good as an appetizer with make a sweet miso paste.
• 2 tablespoons mirin beer in the late afternoon before
½ teaspoon shichimi togarashi dinner. Leftovers can be reheated To serve , lay each piece of daikonflat
[seven-spice powder) in the konbuwater to make an on a small plate, spoon a dollop
impromptu miso soup. of misoon top right before serving,
and sprinkle with shichimitogarashi.
Cut the daikoncrosswise into rounds
¾ inch (2 cm) thick, then into Note: Save the peels to make
thick half-moons. Fill a medium Daikon Peel Kinpira (page 32).
pot halfway up with water, lay the
konbu on the bottom, and arrange
the daikonpieces on top of the
konbu. Bring the water to a boil over
medium-high heat. When the daikon
EGGPLANT WITH
SMASHED EDAMAME
Preparation time: 20 minutes Make this dish in the height of Meanwhile, in a pot of boiling
Cooking time: 15 minutes summer when edamameand eggplant water , cook the edamamein their
Serves: 6, as a small bite are at their best. pods for 5 minutes. Drain and
when cool pop the edamameout
7 oz (200g) Japanese eggplants Set up a steamer and bring the of their pods. Mash to a paste in
(aubergines) water to a boil. Peel the eggplants a suribachi[grinding bowl) or in
7 oz (200 g) unshelled edamame (aubergines) and put on a dinner a food processor with the mirin
• 1½ teaspoon mirin plate. Place the plate in the steamer and salt.
¼ teaspoon flaky sea salt basket, cover, and steam, turning
occasionally, until collapsed, Tear the eggplant flesh lengthwise
about 30 minutes. Remove from into pieces that are easily eaten with
the steamer and cool, as is, in chopsticks, toss with the mashed
the steaming juices that have edamame, and serve. Leftovers will
accumulated on the plate . discolor , so this is best the first day .

YUBA WITH YUZU JUICE
Preparation time: IO minutes Fresh yuba, the skin that is skimmed In a pot of salted boiling water ,
Cooking time: IO minutes off soy milk as it is heated to blanch the shungikustems for
Serves, 6 make tofu, is a delicacy that may 30 seconds, then push the leaves
be hard to procure . Hodo Soy, into the pot and cook for another
12 oz (340 g) fresh yuba a California-based company , sells 30 seconds. Scoop out the shungiku,
½ cup (4 fl oz/r25 ml) Konbu Dashi yuba to professional kitchens. If you refresh in an ice bath, and drain.
(page 156) are able to lay your hands on fresh Cut crosswise into %-inch (2 cm)
r'/2 tablespoons soy sauce yuba, this dish will not disappoint. pieces , and squeeze. Toss with the
1 remaining tablespoon soy sauce.
• /a teaspoon fine sea salt I
3 oz (85 g) enoki mushrooms, bottoms Cut the fresh yuba crosswise into
trimmed off, halved crosswise thin strips, taking care not to lose Roast the shiitakecaps for several
• I% oz (50 g) edible shungiku the natural liquids. minutes in a dry cast-iron pan over
[chrys ant hemum greens) medium heat until fragrant, Cut
2 medium shiitake, stems discarded In a small saucepan, combine into thin cross-sectional slices.
• ½ tablespoon fresh yuzu juice the dashi, ½ tablespoon of the
½ teaspoon finely grated yuzu zest soy sauce, the salt, and enoki. Toss the yuba strips with the
½ tablespoon usukuchi shoyu Bring to a simmer, then remove drained enoki, shungiku,and shiitake.
• ½ tablespoon mirin from the heat and allow to cool Season with theyuzu juice and zest ,
in the simmering liquid. Drain usukuchish~u. and mirin.
and set aside .
BURDOCK SALAD
Preparation time: 20 minutes While homemade mayonnaise is Arrange the gobo in a steamer
Cooking time, 5 minutes usually the best choice, sometimes basket, cover, and steam until
Serves, 6 a commercial variety works great. pliable but still with a slight crunch,
Matsuda Mayonnaise, now available about 5 minutes. Remove the
7 oz (200 g) gobo [burdock). scrubbed online outside of Japan, co ntains steamer basket and let the gobo
• ½ lemon no additives like the other popular cool. Toss the cooled gobo with
I tablespoon usukuchi shoyu or brands, so it is preferred for this the soy sauce, tuna, parsley, and
soy sauce dish. mayonnaise. Mound in a pretty
Ican (5 oz/r40 g) water-packed solid bowl and serve.
white tuna, drained and flaked Cut the gobo into thin julienne
I small handful Italian or curly parsley, r½ inches (4 cm) long and drop
chopped into a bowl of water. Squeeze
3
/+ cup (6% oz/200 ml) Japanese the lemon into the water. Set up
Mayonnaise (page 32) or high-quality a steamer and bring to a boil.
store-bought mayonnaise

BURDOCK WITH COD ROE
Preparation time : 20 minutes Adding fresh cod roe to this classic In a large frying pan , heat the oil
Cooking time: IO minutes kinpiragobo [burdock stirfry] makes over medium - low heat. Add the
Serves: 6 it gorgeous-and good for special gobo and carrot and stir-fry until
occasions. half cooked, 2-3 minutes. Add
2-inch (5 cm) piece carrot , scrubbed the soy sauce and mirin and toss
7 oz (200 g) gobo [burdock], scrubbed Cut the carrot andgobo into thin until mostly evaporated, another
• 2 tablespoons canola (rapeseed) oil julienne threads 2 inches I-2 minutes. Stir in the cod roe
• 2 tablespoons soy sauce (5 cm) long. (If not cooking right and toss until no longer pink and
• I tablespoon mirin away, soak the julienned gobo in a the white eggs are well distributed
3½ oz (roo g) fresh cod roe, removed bowl of cold water with vinegar or among the carrot and gobo pieces,
from the roe sacs lemon juice. Drain and blot dry about I more minute. Serve hot
before stir-frying .) or at room temperature.
@ p.43
DASHI EGG
WITH GARLIC CHIVES
Preparation time: 15 minutes Westerners are not used to carrot and shirasuin a circular
Cooking time: 5 minutes vegetables and fish in their egg motion and cook , without stirring,
Serves: 4 dishes, but here the garlic chives but continuing to swirl the egg
and carrots lend color and the mixture over medium-low heat
6 eggs , at room temperature shirasu adds protein making this an until the eggs are half set, about
r'/• cups (ro fl oz/300 ml) Konbu unusually satisfying dish. Be sure 2 minutes . Serve as is , or cover and
Dashi (page 156) to use three whole garlic chives , let "cook" further using only the
2 tablespoons sake rather than just three leaves. residual heat of the pan. Ladle into
• 2 teaspoons soy sauce small bowls and sprinkle with flaky
'I•teaspoon flaky sea salt, plus more Whisk the eggs to emulsify. In a sea salt , if needed.
as needed medium saucepan, bring the dashi,
3 1/ 2 oz (roo g) shirasu sake, soy sauce, and salt to a simmer
[tiny fresh whitebait] over medium heat. Set aside . Drop
• Boiling water the shirasuinto a wire - mesh sieve
I medium carrot, scrubbed and and pour a steady stream of boiling
finely diced water over them for IO seconds.
3 garlic chives , cut crosswise into Set the seasoned dashi over medium
¾-inch (2 cm) pieces heat and slide in the shirasu, carrot ,
and garlic chives. Simmer until
the carrot has softened, about
2 minutes. Swirl the whisked eggs
onto the surface of the simmering

YUZU-DRESSED SPINACH
Preparation time: IO minutes The mushroom andyuzu liv en up In a small saucepan , bring the dashi,
Cooking time, 5 minutes the mineral notes in the spinach soy sauce, and miri.nto a simmer
Serves, 6 of this simple , lovely dish. over medium-low heat. Stir in the
shimeji and remove from the heat
7 oz (200 g) spinach Plac e a bowl of cold water in immediately. Slide into a small
· 6 ½ oz (185 g) shimeji the sink. In a large pot of salted bowl to cool. Once cool, toss with
Scant ½ cup (3 ½ fl oz/roo ml) boiling water, blanch the spinach the spinach and a squeeze or two
Katsuobushi Dashi (page 156) for l minute. Scoop out with a o tjuzu juice .
• 2 tablespoons soy sauc e wire-mesh sieve and plunge into
· l tablespoon mirin th e cold water. Run more cold Place in a serving bowl, garnish
• ½ teaspoon fresh yuzu or water , but not directly on the with the yuzu zest , and serve. This
Meyer lemon juice greens , until the spinach is cool dish holds up well for leftovers ,
l teaspoon finely slivered yuzu or to the touch. Lift out of the water if stored chilled.
Meyer lemon zest with the sieve , shake off , align the
stem ends, and squeeze down the @ P-45
length of spinach to remove excess
3
water. Cut crosswise into /4-inch
(2 cm) pieces. Tear the shimeji into
single stalks.
MITSUBA ROOT KINPIRA
Preparation time, 20 minutes , plus Mitsubais often found with the Heat a small frying pan over
overnight soaking roots attached. If you've made a medium-high heat and film with
Cooking time, 5 minutes dish that call s for just mitsubaleaves, the sesame oil. Drop in the mitsuba
Serves, 4, as a small bite save the stems and roots to make and toss to soften for 30 seconds to
this kinpira [stirfryl, which you can l minute . Swirl in the soy sauce and
12 mitsuba stems and roots (see Note) use as a topping for rice, eggs, or mirinto coat, and cook for another
½ tablespoon gold sesame oil as a garnish for soupy noodles . 20-30 seconds until the soy sauce
2 teaspoons soy sauce and mirin caramelize slightly. Serve
• I teaspoon mirin Refrigerate the mitsubastems hot or at room temperature.
and soak the roots in cold water
overnight. Remove the roots from Nate, Seri Uapanese wild parsley]
the soaking water and scrub . Pull stems can be substitu ted for the
off any hairy tendrils, but keep the mitsuba.
fine wiggly root shoots. Cut the
stems and roots crosswise into
1 1/+-inch (3 cm) lengths.

NATTO WITH EGG AND
GARLIC CHIVES
Preparation time: IO minutes Raw gar lie chive flavor can be crosswise into 11/+-inch (3 cm)
Cooking time, 30 seconds overwhelming, but it mellows when lengths . Fold the garlic chives into
Serves, 4 blanched and fo lded into raw eggs the aerated notto with the aromatics
and natto. Here the point is lots included in the notto packages and
8 garlic chives , tops and bottoms of garlic chives, so make sure you the eggs and salt.
trimmed, blanched in boiling water for are using eight chives, rather than
30 seconds eight leaves. This can be served Note, To aerate natto, place in
4 packages (3 oz/85 g each) natto, on baguette toast or for breakfast a bowl and whip it in a circular
chopped and aerated (see Note) on top of individual bowls of hot motion with a pair of chopsticks.
z eggs, at room t emperature Japanese rice (page z91).
Blot the blanched garlic chives
dry in a clean tea towel and cut
ROLLED CRAB AND

NORI OMELET
Preparation time, 15 minutes These little crab morsels make great When ready to serve, cut the nori to
Cooking time, ZO minutes passed hors d' oeuvres. fit each egg rectangle, making sure
Serves, 6 there is an extra ¾-inch (z cm) at
In each of two bowls , whisk 3 eggs the top end of the nori (to facilitate
6 eggs, at room temperature and 1/s teaspoon salt. rolling). Place one cut sheet, shiny
• ¼ teaspoon fine sea salt side down with ridges horizontal,
· I tablespoon canola oil In a rectangular tamag'!)'akinabe on top of a makisu[bamboo rolling
I thin negi, or Z fat scallions Uapanese omelet pan, page 445], mat). Position one of the egg
(spring onions), finely diced heat ½ tablespoon of the oil over rectangles on top of the nori so it
3 oz (90 g) crabmeat, picked over medium-low heat. Add half of the is flush with the bottom edge, then
for she lls and cartilage negiand half of the crab and cook roll up tightly from the short end.
• Z sheets nori until the negihas wilted slightly, Secure with 4 toothpicks (cocktail
• Soy sauce, for serving about 2 minutes. Pour in one bowl sticks) and cut crosswise into
of the salted eggs, mix briefly to 3 thick rounds. Repeat with the
distribute the crab and negi, and remaining nori and egg. Serve
cook over low heat until set, but with small saucers of soy sauce for
still glossy. Turn out onto a cutting dipping , or drizzle with a little soy
board, then flip wet side up for sauce on one of the cut sides.
rolling. Repeat with the remaining
oil, negi, crab , and salted eggs. [Qj P-47

SHISO-WRAPPED
PAN-GRILLED SNAPPER
Preparation time: 30 minutes These bite-size pieces of Arrange the shiso leaves , shiny side
Cooking time: 5 minutes snapper work great as a pre- down , on your work surface , so the
Makes: I 8 pieces dinner appetizer. They are best tips are facing toward you.
immediately after cooking , so make
8 oz (225 g) small snapper or sea them when you are ready to eat. Heat the oil in a medium frying pan
bream fillet over medium-high heat. Working
½ teaspoon flaky sea salt With the knife held at an angle to in two batches, sear the fish for
18 medium green shiso leaves , stems the cutting board, cut the fillets several seconds on both sides. fu
snipped off across the grain into bite - size the pieces are done, remove from
2 tablespoons canola (rapeseed) oil pieces about % inch (1 cm) thick. the pan , place each one on the stem
3 1/2 oz (100 g)Japanese cucumber, cut Lay the pieces out on a board and half of a shiso leaf, and fold the tip
into batons I¾ inches (4 cm) long holding your hand 12 inches half over the fish. Serve with the
(30 cm) above the fish, sprinkle cucumber on the side.
both sides with the salt (this ensures
a light, even coating).
CABBAGE WITH
HOT SESAME VINEGAR
Preparation time: 30 minutes The rice vinegar plays an important In a small saucepan, combine the
Cooking time, 5 minutes role in this dish, so look for a mild vinegar and sesame oil and bring to
Serves: 6 one. Substitute fat scallions (spring a simmer over medium-high heat.
onions) for piman (Japanese pepper) Pour over the cabbage while hot
11/3 lb (600 g) green cabbage, if the latter are not in season. This and toss to wilt slightly. Crush the
thinly sliced is also good the following day in a sesame seeds lightly and toss those
I medium carrot, scrubbed and lunch box . in as well before serving.
finely julienned
I teaspoon flaky sea salt Drop the cabbage and carrot into Im p.49
2 % oz (75g) piman or small a large bowl and massage the flaky
green peppers sea salt in lightly. Let sit for IO
3 tablespoons brown rice vinegar minutes. Put the whole piman in a
• 3 tablespoons gold sesame oil wire-mesh sieve and pour a steady
3 tablespoons black sesame seeds, stream of boiling water over them
warmed in a small, dry frying pan for IO seconds. Pat dry. Core, seed,
and cut the piman into 3/J6-inch
(5 mm) dice. Gently squeeze the
salted cabbage and carrot and drop
into a clean medium serving bowl.
Toss with the piman.
il'J~ ZENSAI - BEFORE THE MEAL

POTATO SALAD
WITH BLACK SESAME
Preparation time, 15 minutes A d epar ture from the typical up loosely to blot dry. Drop into
Cooking time, 5 minutes Japanese potato salad with smashed a medium bowl and toss with the
Serves, 6 potatoes and mayonnaise , this chopped mitsuba.
potato salad has a sweet vinegar
I tablespoon
fine sea salt dressing. Julienned potato salads In a small saucepan, whisk together
1½ lb (700 g) medium potatoes, peeled are unusual today but were popular the vinegar, mirin, usukuchish'!J'u,and
I large handful mitsuba leaves or cress , in the 1970s and '8os. flaky salt and bring to a boil. Pour
finely chopped the hot dressing over the potatoe s,
4 tablespoons rice vinegar Fill a heavy large pot three-quart ers add the sesame seeds, and toss to
· 2 tablespoons mirin of the way with water. Add the fine distribute. Serve warm or at room
I teaspoon usukuchi shoyu sea salt and bring to a boil over temperature.
• I teaspoon flaky sea salt high heat.Julienne the potatoes
I tablespoon black sesame seeds, and blan ch for 30 seconds in the [Q] p .5 1
warmed in a small, dry frying pan boiling water (the water should
immediately return to a boil).
Scoop out with a wire-mesh sieve
and shake off excess water. Spread
out on a clean tea towel and roll
t,rt(J)~- l--'J-.7- EGGPLANT WITH

TOMATO MEAT SAUCE
Pr eparation time: 20 minutes West ern influences crept into but not browned, about 3 minutes.
Cooking time, 30 minutes Japane se food as early as five hun- Slide in the chopped eggplant
Serves, 6 dred years ago but were absorbed and stir to coat with the oil. Add
and made uniquely Japanese. the ground beef. Continue frying
9 oz (250 g) Japanese eggplants Her e tomato puree (passata) and and breaking up the meat clumps
(aubergines), stem ends trimmed ketchup are used instead of Italian for about 2 minutes, until the
· ½ teaspoon
flaky sea salt tomatoes. Serve over hot white meat is no longer pink . Stir in the
2 tablespoons canola (rapeseed) oil rice or smashed onto toa sted tomato puree (passata), ketchup ,
· ½ medium onion, finely diced baguette. This dish holds up well and chicken stock. Simmer bri skly
• ½ medium carrot, scrubbed and for leftover s. over medium-high heat for 8-10
finely diced minutes to evaporate the juice s and
• 4 oz (no g) ground (minced) beef H alve the eggplants (aubergines) thicken. Scrape into a medium
½ cup (4 fl oz/r25 ml) tomato puree lengthwise, then slice crosswise mixing bowl and fold in the
(passata) into 2 - inch (5 cm) pieces . With mozzarella cubes.
2 tablespoons high-quality a sharp spoon, or a melon baller ,
tomato ketchup scoop out the flesh , leaving enough Spoon the mixture into the hol -
½ cup (4 fl oz/r25 ml) chicken stock of a border to stuff later. Finely lowed out eggplant shells, sprinkle
• 4 1/2 oz (125 g) mozzarella cheese, cut chop the eggplant flesh. Arrange with the parsley , and bake until
into '/•-inc h (6 mm) cubes the hollowed out eggplant pieces hot and bubbling, 15 minutes.
• I small handful parsle y, finely chopped in a sing le layer in a gratin dish Serve right away.
and sprinkle with the salt.
Preheat the oven to 450°F (230°C/

Gas Mark 8).
In a large frying pan , heat the oil

over medium heat. Add the onion
and carrot and cook until softened

SEVEN-SPICE CHICKEN
Preparation time, 20 minutes, plus The bright combination of shichimi your fingers and place the skewers
4 hours chilling time togarashiand gold sesame oil in this on a rack set over an oven pan.
Cooking time, 20 minutes dish is simple, yet compelling as Cook in the middle of the oven
Serves, 6 a spicy bite before dinner. If you for 12 minutes until you can hear
cannot fmdJapanese citrus, do the skin sizzling and the meat is
1 1/+ lb (550 g) boneless chicken thighs, not substitute lime. Use lemon, fragrant. Flip each skewer and cook
skin on preferably Meyer. for 5 minutes more. Serve as is on
I teaspoon flaky sea salt the skewers or slide the meat from
½ teaspoon shichimi togarashi Cut the chicken into 3/+ -r'/+ - inch each skewer into a line, onto
[seven-spice powder] (2-3 cm) squares. Toss with the salt 6 individual salad plates , each with
I teaspoon gold sesame oil and shichimitogarashiand refrigerate a piece of citrus for squeezing.
for at least 4 hours to absorb flavor.
3 small sudachi (page 441), halved , [Q'J p.53
I yuzu, cut into 6 wedges , or ½ Meyer Preheat the oven to 450°F (230°C /
lemon, cut into wedges Gas Mark 8).
Thread about 6 or 7 chicken

squares onto 6 metal skewers. Rub
the sesame oil onto the meat with
SPICY MISO-PICKLED
GARLIC CHICKEN
Preparation time: IO minutes, plus Steamed chicken pickled overnight Meanwhile, in a sma ll bowl , mash
24 hours curing time in spicy miso is great on a zensai together the garlic, ginger, miso,
Coobng time, 15 minutes, plus plate , and is perfect with drinks and kochujan.
30 minutes cooling time before dinner.
Serves, 6 Wrap each chicken breast in
Set each chicken breast on a piece cheesecoth. Smooth the spicy miso
I lb 2 oz (500 g) boneless, sbnless of foil and sprinkle with the salt all around the chicken breasts and
chicken breasts first, and then the sake. Wrap each pack together in a resealable food
¼ teaspoon flaky sea salt packet , scr un ching up the foil. Seal storage bag. Squeeze out the air,
• I tablespoon sake well , as you will turn the packets roll up, and refrigerate for
2 small cloves garlic, smashed to upside down during steaming. 24 hours before wiping off the
a paste in a mortar spicy miso and cutting into 1/+-inch
I tablespoon finely grated fresh ginger Set up a steamer and bring the ( 6 mm) slices for serving.
2 tablespoons soybean miso water to a boil. Place the chicken
I tablespooon kochujan packets in the steamer basket, cover,
(Korean chile paste) and steam for 6 minutes. Turn over
and steam for 6 minutes more .
Remove to a plate and cool for
30 minutes.

CHICKEN AND
MUSHROOM TERRINE
Preparation time: 20 minutes , plus A square or two of this terrine Bake in the middle of the oven
I-2 hours cooling time makes for a nice small bite and can until set, about 20 minutes . Let
Cooking time: 20 minutes be served either as is or with a dab cool completely in the pan before
Serves: 6 of miso sauce. This terrine may also unmolding and cutting into
1
be steamed, rather than baked. /+-inch (6 mm) slices. Halve the
I teaspoon canola (rapeseed) oil slices, crosswise, to serve at room
• I lb 2 oz (500 g) finely ground Preheat the oven to 350°F (r75°C / temperature. Wrap leftovers and
(minced) chicken Gas Mark 4) . Grease two 3 x 6-inch store, refrigerated, for several days .
4 medium shiitake, stems discarded (7 .5 x 15 cm) loaf pans with the oil,
and caps finely chopped rubbing it across the bottom , into
I thin negi or 2 fat scallions the corners , and up the sides of
(spring onions), finely chopped the pans. _,,
I egg, at room temperature
2 teaspoons soy sauce In a large bowl, combine the
• I teaspoon mirin chicken, shiitake, negi, egg , soy sauce,
• I tablespoon sake mirin, sake, salt, ichimi togarashi, and
½ teaspoon flaky sea salt sesame seeds and mix with a pair
'I• teaspoon ichimi togarashi [ground of saibashi[cooking chopsticks]
Japanese red chile] until all the ingredients are evenly
2 teaspoons black sesame seeds, warmed distributed. Pack the chick e n
in a small, dry frying pan mixture into the prepared loaf pan
and wrap the pans on the counter
to make sure the mixture
is well compacted .
GOMA DOFU
Preparation time: 5 minutes This version of gomadofu comes to cool , but do not be tempted to
Cooking time: IO to 15 minutes from Takehiro Wada, the fifth- use the refrigerator to speed up
Serves: 6 generation president ofWadaman the cooling process, since that will
Sesame roastery in Osaka. cause the goma dofu to toughen. Stir
3½ oz (roo g) well-crushed kudzu the soy sauce into the remaining
powder Place the kudzu and salt in a small, ¼ cup (2 fl oz/55 ml) dashiand
½ teaspoon fine sea salt heavy saucepan and stir in the chill. Cut the goma dofu into squares
½ cup (3½ oz / roo g) black, white , or sesame paste. Slowly whisk in and serve with the chilled seasoned
gold roasted sesame paste (not tahini) 3 cups (720 mi) of the konbudashi dashiand a dab of wasabi.Although
3 1/+ cups (26 fl oz/775 ml) Konbu and pass through a fine mesh metal best freshly made, this keeps for
Dashi (page 156) sieve (uragoshi,page 445). Heat the 2-3 days, refrigerated in a covered
I tablespoon soy sauce mixture, stirring continuously and container .
I teaspoon grated fresh wasabi vigorously with a wooden spoon
over low heat, for 10-15 minutes , [ill P-55
until the mixture becomes viscous
and lift s off the bottom of the pan.
Wet an 8-inch (20 cm) square

pan with a removable bottom
and, working quickly , scrape the
hot sesame mixture into the pan,
flattening the surface with a flat-
bladed plastic spatula. Place the
pan in a cold water bath and allow

TOFU
Preparation time: 2 hours, plus Japanese tofu is like a creamy custard Pour the soy milk into a heavy-
9-20 hours soaking time with a gentle flavor of soybeans. bottomed medium pot and heat
Cooking time: I hour 25 minutes Making your own may seem like an over low heat (on a flame tamer,
Makes: 2 (5½ x 4 x 2-inch/ undertaking, but you will be well if you have one) until the mixture
14 x IO x 5 cm) blocks rewarded. Look for organic soybeans reaches 175°F (8o°C), about I hour.
and the best water, since the flavor
r% cups (ro½ oz/300 g) hinges on the beans and water. You Meanwhile, prepare a large bowl
dried soybeans will need tofu forms. and a long wooden spoon. Set
½ fl oz (12. 5 mi) liquid nigari, the diluted nigarinext to the bowl.
diluted in 1½ fl oz (45 mi) water Soak the soybeans in 5 cups Once the soy milk reaches the
(40 fl oz/I. 2 liters) cold water for desired temperature, pour it into
8 hours in warm weather, 15 hours the bowl and stir vigorously in wide
in cool weather , and 20 hours in revolutions to create a vortex into
cold weather. (If your house is which you will pour the nigari(while
air - conditioned or heated, use your stirring). Make 2 more revolutions
best judgement.) and come to a full stop in the
middle of the bowl. Remove the
Scoop a third of the beans and wooden spoon and let the curds sit
a third of the soaking liquid into undisturbed for 15 minutes.
a blender and process on high speed
for 2 minutes. Pour into a large Meanwhile, place two 6½ x 43/• x
bowl. Repeat with the remaining 3 ½-inch (16.5 x 12.5 x 9 cm)
beans and liquid in 2 batches. wooden tofu forms in a pan
with sides to catch the drips, and
In a pot large enough to hold the line with the muslin cloths that
water and the blended soybeans, came with the forms (or with
bring 5 ½ cups (44 fl oz/ I. 3 liters) cheesecloth); the cloth should drape
water to a boil. Add the soybean over the sides of the forms.
mixture to the pot and stir con-
stantly to avoid scorching the After 15 minutes, gently ladle the
bottom (a flame tamer/simmer ring curds into the forms. Fold the
is useful here). Bring the contents overhang on top and set the flat
of the pot back to a near boil , then wooden insert (provided with the
remove the pot from the heat and forms) over it. (Alternatively,
set aside for 15 minutes , until the jury-rig a flat surface the same size
foam subsides. as the form to evenly distribute
weight over the tofu .) Set a r-1¾ lb
Meanwhile, set a large wire - mesh (500-800 g) weight in each form
strainer over a medium bowl and and press down gently but firmly.
line it with the muslin bag provided Leave for 30 minutes to set.
with the tofu forms (alternatively,
use a large piece of cheesecloth). Remove the weights and slip the
cloth-enclosed blocks of tofu into
Set the pot over low heat for a lidded rectangular container filled
IO minutes. Pour the hot soybean halfway with cold water. Refrigerate
mixture through the cloth and let for 30 minutes. If not eating right
the liquid drip into the bowl. Once away, remove the cloth and store
cool enough to handle, twist up the the tofu in a covered water-filled
muslin bag (or cheesecloth) and container for up to 4 days.
squeeze to remove as much of the
liquid as possible. (The solids left [variation]
in the muslin bag are called okara For soft tofu: In a double boiler,
[soybean pulp] and the liquid in the heat 3 cups (24 fl oz/750 mi) soy
bowl is soy milk. Use the okara for milk until just shy of 185°F (85°C) .
stir-fries; if not using right away, Vigorously stir the soy milk to make
freeze for up to 3 months.) a vortex as described above, add
2 teaspoons nigari,and stir twice ..-bet -
sit for 15 minutes before serving.

0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
aemono
DRESSED
AEMONO - DRESSED
Aemono dishes are the most versatile in the entire landscape

of Japanese cuisine. They appear on ;zensaiplates (page 29-
57), on their own, in bentos-noJapanese meal would be
complete without them.
Most commonly based on salt-massaged, or boiled,
refreshed leafy greens, these dressed dishes filled the role
of Western salads in a traditional Japanese meal. These days,
although not orthodoxly Japanese, vinaigrette salads are
common on Japanese menus-especially at breakfast. Strict
vinegar treatments, however, have their own category as
"vinegared" (sunomono, page 104).
Oil was a precious ingredient in Japan because it was
pressed from rapeseed (canola) and sesame seed, which
yielded small amounts. And although fried dishes (agemono,
page 226) are certainly an essential component on a
Japanese menu, oil is generally used sparingly. In the case
of aemono, the dishes get their richness from sesame seeds
or walnuts rather than oil, making them healthy, flavorful,
versatile-and practical. Since dressed dishes hold up well,
they often reappear on the table for multiple meals over
the course of a day or two.
60 f□~~ AEMONO - DRESSED

SPINACH AND CHRYSANTHEMUM
PETALS IN SOY DASHI
Preparation time: 30 minutes The bright yellow chrysanthemum Cut the spinach crosswise into
Cooking time: IO minutes flowers add color and a lovely bitter ¾-I inch (2 - 3 cm) pieces.
Serves: 6 note to the mineral- rich , sweet
spinach. Bring a medium pot of water to
3 1/2 oz (roo g) maitake or king oyster a rapid boil and add the vinegar.
(eringi) mushrooms Tear the maitakelengthwi se into Drop in the chrysanthemum petals
· Juice of I sudachi or ¼ Meyer lemon attractive pieces easily eaten with and cook until the petals are shiny,
• 7 oz (200 g) spinach chopsticks. In a dry frying pan , 20-30 seconds. Plunge into a bowl
• Q teaspoons rice vinegar roast over medium-low heat until of cold water and run more cold
r¾ oz (50 g) chrysanthemum petals , fragrant and golden in spots. Toss water to coo l. Drain well .
from about 16 medium flowers with the citrus juice.
5 tablespoons Katsuobushi Dashi Mix the dashiand soy sauce together
(page 156) Bring a large pot of water to a boil and toss with the spinach and
2 tablespoons soy sauce over high heat. Lower the spinach chrys ant hemum petals. Spoon into
stem ends into the water (do not let a bowl and lay the maitakepieces on
go) for a co unt of 20 , then sub- top in one clump, so the tops rest
merge the sp inach in the boiling against the middle of the spinach .
water and cook another 20 seconds, Serve.
depending on the toughness of
the leave s.
Plunge into a bowl of cold water

and run more co ld water into the
bowl until the spinach is cool.
Drain well. Align the stem ends
and squeeze down the length of the
spinach, from the ends to the tips
to remove excess water.
BUTTERBUR BUDS
WITH GRATED DAIKON
Preparation time: 35 minutes Bitter is the taste of spring in Bring a small saucepan of salted
Cooking time: 5 minutes Japan and fuki no to (page 430) water to a boil. Pare off any
Serves: 6, as a small bite are the buds of the quintessential discolored portions from the fuki
mountain vegetable-butterbur- no to and blanch for 2 minutes in
4-inch (ro cm) piece daikon , scrubbed that peek out from th e snow once the boiling water. Scoop out with a
I½ oz (45 g) fuki no to [butterbur buds) spring is around the corner. The wire- mesh sieve, cool. squeeze, and
1
• /4 teaspoon fine sea salt buds are often served as tempuraor chop roughly. Toss with the drained
4 tablespoons rice vinegar sauteed with miso. daikonjuices, place an otoshibuta
• 2 tablespoons mirin [drop lid) or plate on top , and wait
Grate the daikon on an oroshigane for IO minutes.
Uapanese grating plate). Set a wire-
mesh sieve over a bowl and scrape Stir the salt into the vinegar and
the daikoninto the sieve to drain mirin. Squeeze the fuki no to and fold
for IO minutes. Squeeze the grated into drained grated daikon. Drizzle
daikonand drop into a small serving with the dressing and serve. It is
bowl, but reserve the drained and best on the first day, as fuki no to
squeezed juices. tends to lose its vibrant color and
grated daikon develops a slightly
funky nose.
61 AEMONO - DRESSED
FLOWERING GREENS
IN SAKE-SOY
Preparation time, 15 minutes In the spring, the fields all over Stir the soy sauce and saketogether.
Cooking time, 5 minutes Japan are covered with bolting Lay the nanohanain a rectangular
Serves, 6 brassicas with small yellow flowers. pan and pour the sake-soy mixture
The season is short-lived, so take over it, rolling the pan to coat the
· % lb (300 g) nanohana (page 436) advantage when it arrives. greens evenly. Lifting them by the
or broccoli rabe (rapini) stem ends, remove the greens from
· 2 tablespoons soy sauce Bring a medium pot of salted water the pan , shake excess liquids back
• 2 tablespoons sake to a boil. Lower the nanohanastem into the pan, and cut crosswise
l large handful freshly shaved ends into the water, but do not into ¾-inch (2 cm) pieces. Align
katsuobushi or hanakatsuo let go. Cook for 30 seconds, then thos e pieces attractively in a shallow
drop the nanohanaeinto the boiling bowl, keeping the cut clumps
water and submerge with a wooden together. Swirl the sake-soy mixture
spoon. Cook until the nanohanais from the pan over the greens and
pliable but hasn't lost its structural garnish with the katsuobushi. Serve
integrity, 2-3 minutes more, immediately .
depending on thickness. Drain and
refresh under cold running water.
Drain well and pat dry. Align from
the stem ends and squeeze down
the lengt h of the nanohanato remove
excess water.
DASHI-DRENCHED
FIDDLEHEAD FERNS
Preparation time: IO minutes, plus Fiddlehead ferns are a harbinger of In a medium saucepan of rapidly
overnight soaking spring and one of the few Japanese boiling water, blanch the fiddle-
Cooking time, 15 minutes mountain vegetables (page 430) head s until slightly softened but
Serves, 6 easily sourced outside of Japan. still crunchy, about 30 seconds.
Because of the delicate nature of Scoop the fiddleheads out of the
3 1/2 oz (100 g) fiddlehead ferns, the fiddleheads, the dashishould be water, blot dry, and slip into the
bottoms trimmed lightly seasoned. dashito cool.
l tablespoon baking soda (bicarbonate
of soda) Place the fiddlehead ferns in a large If too long to eat comfortably
Boiling water bowl. Sprinkle with the baking with chopsticks, cut the fiddleheads
· 1¼ cups (ro fl oz/300 ml) soda (bicarbondate of soda) and into 1'/•-inch (3 cm) lengths , stack
Katsuobushi Dashi (page 156) pour boiling water over them. Lay in a bowl, and pour the dashiover.
• I teaspoon soy sauce an otoshibuta[drop lid] or a plate Strew with katsuobushi and serve.
· I teaspoon mirin on top and leave overnight. Drain The fiddleheads keep well for
¼ teaspoon flaky sea salt and rinse in several changes of several days, if stored refrigerated
l large handful freshly shaved cold water to remove the naturally in the dashi.
katsuobushi or hanakatsuo occurring toxins in some varieties
of fiddlehead ferns.
In a sma ll saucepan, bring the

dashi, soy sauce, mirin, and salt to a
simmer, then immediately remove
from the heat and cool.
AEMONO - DRESSED
GINGER-INFUSED GREENS
AND VEGETABLES
Preparation time: 20 minutes This medley of simmered, steamed, Set up a steamer and bring the
Cooking time, 15 minutes and crunchy raw vegetables is water to a boil. Arrange the
Serves, 6 brought together by the ginger- eggplant (aubergine) in the steamer
infused dressing. Leftovers basket, cover, and steam until soft,
5 1/, oz (150 g) shungiku [edible are good for several days, if about 15 minutes . Tear or cut
chrysanthemum greens] refrigerated. lengthwise into strips and halve
· 5¼ oz (150 g) bok choy crosswise.
5 'I•oz (150 g) komatsuna Uapanese Fill a large pot halfway with water
mustard greens] or mustard greens and bring to a boil. Hold the In a medium bowl, combine the soy
• 5'/• oz (150 g) spinach greens with a large pair of tongs sauce and mirin. Squeeze the grated
• 2% oz (75 g) mitsuba and dip the stems into the boiling ginger to express the juice into the
4¾ oz (135 g) Japanese eggplants water to cook for 30 seconds. Drop bowl. Toss the greens, eggplant,
(aubergines), peeled at intervals for the greens into the water, push and daikon in the dressing and serve
a striped effect down, and cook for an additional in a rustic pottery bowl.
• 3 tablespoons soy sauce 30 seconds. Drain and refresh in
• r½ tablespoons mirin a colander under cold, running
3 tablespoons grated fresh ginger water until cool. Squeeze the greens
5 'I•oz (150 g) daikon (or other root of excess liquid, chop coarsely, and
vegetable such as turnip), scrubbed and squeeze again.
cut into thin julienne
CARROT WITH SMASHED

TOFU AND SESAME
Preparation time, 45 minutes This version of shira-ae [smashed In a small, dry frying pan, warm
Serves, 6 tofu dish] omits miso, but includes the sesame seeds by shaking the pan
a generous helping of white sesame over medium-high heat until the
l (ro½ oz/300 g) momendofu or seeds, which pair particularly well natural aroma wafts off of the pan.
Japanese-style soft block tofu with carrots. Slide into a suribachi [grinding bowl]
½ lb (225 g) carrots, scrubbed and or spice/nut grinder and process
finely julienned Set the tofu on a cutting board and until powdery. Squeeze the tofu by
1
/s teaspoon flaky sea salt prop a small plate underneath it handfuls and drop into the suribachi
2 tablespoons white sesame seeds to angle the board into the kitchen with the mirin and usukuchish'!Y"·
• ½ tablespoon mirin sink (to catch drips). Lay another Smash with the surikogi[grinding
½ tablespoon usukuchi shoyu cutting board on top of the tofu pestle] until creamy and well
%, sheet nori, snipped into fine strips to press out moisture for 20 emulsified.
I½ inches (4 cm) long minutes . Massage the carrot with
the flaky salt and let sit for at least Strew the carrots across a clean tea
IO minutes while you prepare the towel, roll up to remove moisture,
other ingredients. and fold into the tofu mixture.
Scrape down the sides to clean up
the presentation, sprinkle with the
nori, and serve in the suribachi.
AEMONO - DRESSED
STAMINA SALAD
Preparation time, 35 minutes This vegetable-packed salad gets Squeeze the onion, daikon, and
Cooking time : 5 minutes its name because Buddhist priests carrot gently by small handfuls and
Serves, 4 eat it from the rainy season in drop onto a clean tea towel for
June, to the height of summer blotting dry.
• 3 ½ oz (100 g) moyashi [mung bean during Obon . Obon is a three-day
sprouts] Buddhist celebration in mid- Toss the onion,daikon, carrot,
• Boiling water August , when people burn straw to and cucumber with the m'!Yashi
4 tablespoons white sesame seeds shepherd the ancestors back from and mound attractively in a large
• I teaspoon flaky sea salt the spirit world through the smoke. shallow serving bowl or deep
I small red onion, thinly sliced This is the busiest time of the platter. Make a hole in the center
8 oz (225 g) daikon, scrubbed and year for priests, so they need extra of the vegetables and slip the egg
julienned energy. yolks into the hole . Sprinkle the
4 1/2 oz (125 g) carrot , scrubbed and salad with the smashed sesame seeds
julienned Drop the m'!Yashiinto a sieve and and the hanakatsuo.Break the egg
5 1/+ oz (150 g) Japanese cucumber , pour boiling water over them for yolks with a pair of saibashi[cooking
julienned IO seconds . Blot dry on a clean tea chopsticks] or salad servers and
2 large or 3 medium egg yolks, at room towel. In a small , dry frying pan, toss well to distribute all of the
temperature toast the sesame seeds over medium ingredients. In a small bowl , whisk
Ilarge handful freshly shaved heat until fragrant, shaking the pan together the vinegar, soy sauce,
katsuobushi or hanakatsuo and lifting it off the heat if needed lemon juice, and remaining
1
• 2 tablespoons rice vinegar to avoid scorching. Smash the seeds /+ teaspoon salt. Drizzle over the
• 2 tablespoons soy sauce in a suribachi[grinding bowl] to salad right before serving.
I tablespoon fresh lemon juice partially break down.
Massage 1/+ teaspoon of the salt into

the sliced onion and let sit for
IO minutes. In a medium bowl, toss
together the julienned daikon and
carrot and massage in ½ teaspoon
of the salt. Let sit for IO minutes
as well.
SAUTEED ONIONS WITH NATTO
Preparation time : IO minutes Natto can be an acquired taste wilted, about 2 minutes. Scrape
Cooking time: 5 minutes and here the sweet sauteed onion into a medium bowl. Fold the natto
Serves: 2-4 mellows the natto's bold flavor . If into the cooked onions, season with
possible , use never-frozen, locally the salt, and serve as a condiment
½ tablespoon canola (rapeseed) oil made natto (page 436). This small with other Japanese dishes.
• I small onion (3½ oz/Ioo g), halved bite is good as is, or spooned onto
and sliced into half - moons 1/+- inch Japanese rice (page 291).
(6 mm) thick
• 2 teaspoons slivered fresh ginger In a large frying pan, heat the
I package (3 oz/ 85 g) natto, well aerated oil over medium heat. Add the
· (see Note, page 46) onions and ginger and cook until
1/+teaspoon flaky sea salt no longer raw but not completely
66 AEMONO - DRESSED
SPINACH WITH WALNUTS
Preparation time: 20 minutes, plus In Japanese cuisine, spinach is reconstituted shiitakecaps. Reserve
IO minutes for cooling often paired with walnuts in the the shiitakeseparately , but add
Cooking time: IO minutes form of a walnut dressing. Here, I tablespoon each of the soy sauce
Serves: 6 the spinach is enlivened by crunchy and mirin to the soaking liquid and
carrots and umami-rich dried bring to a simmer over medium
I small carrot , scrubbed and cut into shiitake, and tossed with shirataki- heat. Drop in the shiratakiand once
fine julienne, 2 inches (5 cm) long transluscent noodles made from the liquid returns to a simmer,
· 7 oz (200 g) spinach konjac-for an unexpected twist. adjust the heat to maintain a gentle
• 5 oz (150 g) shirataki noodles simmer for 5 minutes.
• 2 dried shiitake, soaked in I cup Bring a pot of water to a boil over
(8 fl oz/250 mi) boiling water for high heat. Drop the carrot into a Roast the walnuts in a small dry
30 minutes wire-mesh sieve and dip the sieve frying pan over low heat until
· 2 tablespoons soy sauce in and out of the boiling water to fragrant and grind in a suribachi
· 1½ tablespoons mirin barely cook the carrot. Shake off [grinding bowl] or spice/nut
½ cup (2 oz/60 g) walnuts the sieve and spread the carrot on grinder until powdery but not
a clean tea towel to blot dry. Drop paste-like. Mash the remaining
the spinach into the boiling water I tablespoon soy sauce and ½
and immediately scoop out with a tablespoon mirin into the ground
wire-mesh sieve. Run cold water walnuts.
over the spinach to stop the cooking
process. Squeeze down the length Drain the shirataki(discard the
of the greens and cut crosswise into simmering liquid) and slide into
1¼-inch (3 cm) pieces. Cut the the grinding bowl with the walnut
shiratakinoodles into 1¼-inch mixture . Separate the squeezed
(3 cm) pieces, place in a wire-mesh spinach with your fingers, and
strainer and dunk in and out of the drop into the walnut mixture along
boiling water to blanch. Set in the with the shiitakeand carrot. Toss
kitchen sink to drain. with your fingers until the walnut
dressing is well incorporated into
Drain the shiitakeover a small the spinach and other ingredients.
saucepan, reserving the soaking Scrape down the bowl, or mound
liquid. Remove the stems, in a ceramic serving bowl , and serve
discard, and and thinly slice the with any Japanese meal.
NAMEKO MUSHROOMS
WITH GRATED DAIKON
Preparation time: 20 minutes Although namekomushrooms are and salt and mix into the daikon and
Serves: 4, as a small bite often found floating in a bowl of wasabiuntil well incorporated. Fold
dark miso soup, here they are served in the mushrooms and sprinkle
2 2h oz (75 g) nameko mushrooms, on a bed of grated daikon and aro- with the nori. Give the mixture one
bottoms trimmed matics, taking on a livelier profile . light stir, and serve immediately .
¼ teaspoon grated fresh wasabi This dish is best freshly made.
• 2 tablespoons rice vinegar
• I tablespoon mirin Bring a pot of water to a boil. Place
I tablespoon Katsuobushi Dashi the namekoin a wire-mesh sieve and
(page 156) dip in and out of the boiling water.
½ teaspoon flaky sea salt Blot dry on a clean tea towel, then
¾ cup (7 oz/ 200 g) drained remove immediately because they
grated daikon tend to stick. In a small bowl, stir
½ sheet nori , toasted and snipped into together the vinegar , mirin, dashi,
fine threads
AEMONO - DRESSED
SWEET POTATO
WITH LEMON DRESSING
Preparation time: 20 minutes , plus Lemon and sweet potato are a In a small bowl , stir together the
2 hours chilling time natural pairing , because ~e citrus lemon juice , remaining I teaspoon
Cooking time, IO minutes plays well with the sweet, dense salt , soy sauce , and pepper. Whisk
Serves, 6 flesh. Served in butter lettuce or in the olive oil to emulsify.
crispy iceberg lettuce ''cups, " this
I lb (500 g) sweet potatoes , peeled and salad makes for a brilliant summer In a large bowl , toss together the
cut into ¾-inch (r cm) cubes luncheon :fi.rst course. sweet potatoes , carrot, cabbage ,
4 1/2 oz (125 g) carrot, scrubbed and cut cucumber, walnuts, and lemon
into '/•-inch (r cm) cubes Bring two medium pots of water to dressing. Chill for 2 hours.
7 oz (200g) Japanese cucumbers, sliced a simmer over medium-high heat.
into thin rounds Drop the potatoes into one pot Set out 6 small plates and lay
I 1/• teaspoons flaky sea salt and the carrot into the other I iceberg lettuce leaf or 2 butter
½ lb (250 g) cabbage, cut crosswise and cook at a lively simmer for lettuce leaves on each one. Spoon
into strips 1½-inches (2 cm) wide 2-3 minutes, until the pieces are an attractive mound of salad on
• Boiling water cooked in the center, but still the lettuce leaves and serve . This
I tablespoon fresh lemon juice hold their shape . Drain. salad holds up for I-2 days, if
• I teaspoon soy sauce refrigerated , though should be
½ teaspoon freshly ground Massage the cucumbers gently with stored separately from the lettuce.
black pepper ¼ teaspoon of the salt, let sit for
4 tablespoons olive oil IO minutes , then drain in a sieve set @ p .69
½ cup (2 oz / 60 g) coarsely over a bowl to catch the drips. Place
chopped walnuts the cabbage in a wire-mesh sieve
6 iceberg lettuce leaves or 12 butter and pour a steady stream of boiling
lettuce leaves water over it in a circular motion
for 30 seconds. Cool and squeeze.
SUMMER SALAD WITH DUMPLINGS

Preparation time: 30 minutes The carrot dressing not only gives Make the salad, Lay the drained
Serves, 6-8 the greens a luxurious coating , but hittsumeacross a large platter .
also contrasts nicely with the hittsumi Julienne the cucumber and strew
For the dressing, [dumplings]. over the dumplings with th e kaiware
I small onion (3 1/2 oz/roo g) daikon. Fluff the shisochiffonade and
I small carrot (3 1/2 oz/roo g), scrubbed Make the dressing, Grate the onion sprinkle over the salad . Distribute
· 4 tablespoons rice vinegar and carrot on an oroshigane ijapanese the tomatoes around the perimeter
½ cup (4 fl oz/r25 ml) neutral oil such grating plate] using a circular of the salad .
as canola (rapeseed) , sunflower , motion. Transfer to a blender and
or peanut add the vinegar , oil, salt , pepper, Drizzle the carrot dressing across
• ½ teaspoon fine sea salt soy sauce , and mustard. Whirl to the surfac e of the salad and serve.
½ teaspoon finely ground black pepper form a thick, pourable dressing .
• ½ teaspoon soy sauce
½ teaspoon Dijon mustard
For the salad ,

• Hittsume (page 277), cooked and
drained
· IO½ oz (300 g) Japanese cucumbers
• I (2 ¼ oz/65 g) package daikon sprouts
(kaiware daikon) , sponge base cut off and
sprouts halved crosswise
• IO medium green shiso leaves, rolled
and cut into a chiffonade
IO slightly underripe small red oval
tomatoes, halved lengthwise
68 AEMONO - DRESSED
UME-FLAVORED TURNIPS
Preparation time : I5 minutes Umeboshi[salted sour plum] pair well stream of boiling water over them
Serves : 6 with white root vegetables such as for 30 seconds. Shake off the hot
turnip , daikon, and radishes . Serve water and squeeze the leaves to
r½ lb (650 g) small turnips with as a pickle-like side dish for rich remove excess liquid.
their leafy stems dishes like grilled meats .
I small handful ito konbu Grind the sesame seeds coarsely in
[konbu threads] Lop off the turnips' stems at the a suribachi[grinding bowl] or spice
2 teaspoons flaky sea salt base, wash the leaves , and set aside. grinder. Mash in the umeboshito
· Boiling water Scrub the turnips with a vegetable form a paste. Dribble in the mirin
2 tablespoons white sesame seeds brush , but do not peel. Pare off to thin the consistency and to
3 umeboshi [salted sour plum], pitted any brown discolored spots and adjust the sweet-sour balance.
• 3 tablespoons mirin blot dry on a clean tea towel. Halve
the turnips lengthwise , then lay the Rinse the turnips and konbu and
turnips cut side down on a cutting squeeze. Drop into a medium bowl
board and cut into slices 1/s inch and toss with the turnip leaves and
(3 mm) thick . In a medium bowl, sesame-umeboshi paste. It keeps in
massage the turnips and ito konbu the refrigerator for several days,
with the salt. but the flavor will lose some of its
brightness, as the vegetables exude
Line the turnips stems up on a liquid and dilute the umeboshiflavor .
cutting board and slice crosswise
at %-inch (r cm) intervals. Put in [Qj p .71
a wire-mesh sieve and pour a steady
EGG YOLK-DRESSED CRAB

AND CUCUMBER
Preparation time: 30 minutes Kimiz u is an egg yolk-based sauce water and cook over low heat,
Cooking time: 5 minutes similar to a silky mayonnaise and is whisking constantly , until warmed
Serves: 4-6 particularly good on seafood and and slightly thickened , r½-
vegetable salads. Artisanally crafted 2 minutes . Whisk in the potato
4 crab-flavored fish cake (kamaboko) , kamaboko[crab-flavored fish cake] starch mixture and cook for another
or 5¼ oz (150 g) fresh crabmeat, picked can be amazing. Substitute freshly I minute to make a creamy sauce-
over for shells and cartilage , picked crabmeat if the only choice if the bowl is too hot, lift slightly
· r¼-inch (3 cm) piece konbu for kamabokois one containing MSG above the pan of simmering water as
7 oz (200 g) Japanese cucumbers, and preservatives. you stir. Press through a wire-mesh
cut into ¼ - inch (5 mm) thick rounds sieve into a small bowl and cool.
· I½ teaspoons fi.ne sea salt Tear the crab-flavored kamaboko
• 2 tablespoons rice vinegar into pieces 2 inches (5 cm) long Mound the cucumber mixture in a
· I tablespoon mirin to resemble strips of crab leg. serving bowl and strew attractively
2 egg yolks , at room temperature In a bowl , combine the konbu, with the kamabokoor crab. Drizzle
• 1• teaspoon
1
flaky sea salt cucumbers , fine sea salt, and the dressing over it and serve . It
I teaspoon potato starch, dissolved 1% cups (14 fl oz / 400 mi) cold holds up to the following day, when
in I tablespoon cold water water and soak for IO minutes. refrigerated, though there will be
Drain and pat dry in a tea towel. some seepage from the cucumbers .
In a small stainless steel bowl set

over a pan of simmering water
(make sure the bottom of the bowl
does not touch the water), whisk
together the vinegar , mirin, egg
yolks , flaky salt, and I tablespoon
70 AEMONO - DRESSED
SUMMER CHICKEN SALAD
Preparation time, 35 minutes Make this summer salad once the Toss the chicken pieces with the
Cooking time, IO minutes celery, tomatoes , and cucumbers fine salt, then with the remaining
Serves, 6 are available from your garden or 2 tablespoons potato starch and
farmers market. blanch in the boiling water until no
I medium stalk celery, julienned longer pink in the centers, about
• ¾ teaspoon flaky sea salt Massage the celery gently with 2 minutes. Spread out on a baking
7 oz (200 g) Japanese cucumbers, ¼ teaspoon of the flaky salt and sheet and chill for 15 minutes .
unpeeled, julienned the cucumbers with the remaining
3 egg yolks , at room temperature ½ teaspoon of the flaky sea salt. Strew a platter or large serving plate
• 3 tablespoons rice vinegar Bring a medium pot of water to a with the celery and cucumbers ,
• 2 tablespoons mirin boil over high heat. In a metal bowl followed by the chicken, and then
2 ½ tablespoons potato starch (that will fit snugly over the pot of the tomatoes. Drizzle with the kimizu
• I tablespoon grated fresh wasabi water), whisk together the egg yolks, dressing and serve immediately as
I2 oz (340 g) boneless, skinless chicken vinegar , mirin, and½ tablespoon a refreshing luncheon dish.
breast , cut into ½-inch (I2 mm) cubes of the potato starch until smooth.
• I teaspoon fine sea salt Stir in % cup (5 fl oz/I50 ml) cold
• 18 small or 9 medium-large cherry water and set the bowl over the pot
tomatoes, halved through the stem end of boiling water over medium-low
heat. Continue whisking and cook
until the mixture has thickened and
forms thick ribbons , 2-3 minutes .
Remove the bowl from the pot (but
keep the water at a boil) and stir in
the wasabi.Scrape the kimizu dressing
into a small bowl, cover , and chill .
SWEET MISO-DRESSED NEGI

WITH CLAMS
Preparation time, 15 minutes Silky steamed negidres sed with Set up a steamer and bring the
Cooking time, 15 minutes sweet miso sauce is irresistible when water to a boil. Arrange the negi
Serves, 6 combined with briny clams. If you whites in the steamer basket, cover ,
like a more pronounced miso flavor, and steam for 4 minutes. Add the
• 12 large or 36 small clams use more inaka miso (country-style negigreen pieces and steam for
• I tablespoon fine sea salt miso, page 432), than white miso. 4 more minutes. Uncover , remove
cup (8 fl oz/250 ml) sake
• I the steamer basket. and let the
6 medium negi or 18 fat scallions Rub the clam shells with the salt. negicool.
(spring onions), cut into 1½-inch Scrub and rinse in several changes
(4 cm) lengths, green and white parts of cold water to encourage the In a bowl , whisk the mirin and
kept separate clams to expel their sand. Place in a vinegar into the misoand drizzle
• 2 tablespoons mirin small saucepan with the sake , cover, in I or 2 tablespoons of the
I tablespoon rice vinegar and bring to a boil over high heat. strained clam steaming liquid to
4 tablespoons inaka miso Adjust the heat so the liquid does lighten the miso consistency to a
4 tablespoons white miso not bubble over and cook until all creamy paste. Fold the steamed negi,
(or almost all) of the shells have clams , and dressing together. Serve
opened , 3-5 minutes, depending at room temperature or cold the
on the size of the clams . Discard following day.
the unopened clams and strain the
simmering liquid. Remove the meat
from the shells. Leave small clams
intact, cut larger clams into ½-inch
(12 mm) pieces.
72 AEMONO - DRESSED
GREENS AND CHRYSANTHEMUM
PETALS WITH SESAME
Preparation time: 20 minutes This is a lovely-hued dish and Lower the spinach stem ends into
Cooking time: 5 minutes makes a pretty addition on the table the water (do not let go) for a count
Serves: 4-6 or even a zensaiplate. It is best the of IO, then submerge the spinach
first day , but holds up well to the in the boiling water and cook
I tablespoon rice vinegar next day if refrigerated. 30-60 seconds more, depending
• r¾ oz (50 g) fresh edible on the thickness of the leaves.
chrysanthemum flowers, about I2 In a pot , bring 2 cups (r6 fl oz/ Scoop into the ice bath to cool ,
• 7 oz (200 g) spinach 500 ml) water and the vinegar to then drain. Align the stem ends
· 3½ oz (roo g) kikuna [edible a boil over high heat. Set up a bowl and squeeze down the length of the
chrysanthemum greens] of ice water in the sink. Pull the spinach, from the ends to the tips
3 tablespoons white sesame seeds, petals off of the center portion of to remove excess water. Squeeze the
warmed in a small, dry frying pan the flower and drop into a wire- boiled kikuna as well. Cut the greens
• I tablespoon mirin mesh sieve. Dip the sieve in and out across into 3/+-inch (2 cm) pieces.
• I½ tablespoons soy sauce of the pot of boiling water. Shake
off the hot water and plunge into Wrap the sesame seeds in a clean tea
the bowl of ice water to cool. Once towel and crush slightly with the flat
cool , blot dry in a clean tea towel. blade of a heavy kitchen knife. Slide
into a bowl and whisk in the sake
Refresh the bowl ofice water . In and soy sauce. Pull the greens and
a large pot of salted boiling water, flower petals apart with your fingers
cook the kikuna 1-3 minutes, to evenly distribute the yellow
depending on toughness. Scoop among the green and toss with
out of the boiling water (but keep the dressing using a pair of saibashi
the water boiling) and plunge into [cooking chopsticks]. Serve.
the ice bath. Scoop out and allow
to drain.
NEW POTATOES WITH

SOUR PLUM AND ORANGE
Preparation time: 20 minutes The umeboshi[sour plum] and citrus Pare off the peel and slice out the
Cooking time: 5 minutes notes make this dish a perfect amanatsu sections to remove each
Serves: 6 accompaniment to grilled meat on section from its surrounding
a summer afternoon or a bright membranes. Halve the sections
I lb (450 g) new potatoes, peeled and addition to a packed lunch. crosswise but if using grapefruit,
cut into thin matchsticks cut into thirds. Scrape the umeboshi
7 oz (200 g) enoki mushrooms, In a pot of boiling salted water , into a small bowl and mix in the soy
bottoms trimmed off, separated into blanch the potatoes until no longer sauce, mirin, and sake to loosen the
single stalks raw but not mushy, about I minute. paste. Toss the potato matchsticks
I amanatsu [sour-style orange] or Scoop out with a wire - mesh sieve with the umeboshidressing and fold
½ orange plus ¼ grapefruit and pat dry on a clean tea towel. in the enoki, mitsuba stems , and
3 umeboshi [salted sour plum]. Drop the enoki into the pot of boil- amanatsu. If the umeboshidressing is
pitted and finely chopped ing water for 20 seconds. Scoop too sour, drizzle in a little mirinto
• I teaspoon soy sauce out and drain well. rebalance the flavors. Sprinkle with
• I teaspoon mirin a few pinches of red shiso powder or
• I teaspoon sake flaky sea salt and serve.
I handful mitsuba stems , cut crosswise
into %-inch (r.5 cm) pieces
Red shiso powder or flaky sea salt
73 AEMONO - DRESSED
CRISPY GREEN BEANS
IN SESAME
Preparation time: IO minutes The white sesame seeds are subtle In a small, dry frying pan, toast
Cooking time, 15 minutes in flavor, and pair well with the the sesame seeds over medium heat
Serves, 4-6 saltier, though lighter in color, soy until fragrant, shaking the pan
sauce - usukuchish'?J'u(page 443). It and lifting off the heat if needed
14 oz (400 g) green beans, topped is possible to use the more common to avoid scorching. Transfer
· 6 tablespoons white sesame seeds dark soy sauce instead. immediately to a suribachi[grinding
2 tablespoons usukuchi shoyu bowl) or spice/nut grinder and
2 tablespoons mirin In a pot of boiling salted water, process until the oils come out. Stir
• l pinch flaky salt blanch the green beans for 30- in the usukuchish'?)lu,mirin, and salt
90 seconds, depending on until smooth, taking care to scrape
thickness (they should only be down the si des , so as to not leave
half cooked). Refresh under cold, any precious sesame particles.
running water until cool to the
touch . Drain, shake off , and pat Toss the green beans with the
dry in a clean tea towel. Cut on dressing and serve.
the diagonal into 1½-inch (4 cm)
pieces . If unusually thick, make @ p.75
acute diagonal cuts so the pieces
are thinner.
BROCCOLI AND RADISH SALAD
Preparation time: QO minutes, plus Broccoli is often served with (5 fl oz/r50 ml) cold water and set
l hour chilling hollandaise in Western restaurants, the bowl over the pot of boiling
Cooking time, 5 minutes so this lighter version of an egg water. Continue whisking and cook
Serves, 6 yolk -based sauce is a good match until the mixture has thickened
for broccoli and makes a lovely and forms thick ribbons , about
2 tablespoons fine sea salt dressing, without the richness of 5 minutes. Remove the bowl from
11/, lb (600 g) broccoli , trimmed the butter-based hollandai se. the pot and st ir in the wasabi.
3 egg yolks, at room temperature Scrape the kimizu dressing into
• 3 tablespoons rice vinegar Bring a medium pot of water to a a small bowl, cover, and chill.
• 3 tablespoons mirin boil over high heat and add the fine
• ½ tablespoon potato starch salt . Cut off bite-size florets from Toss the broccoli with the flaky salt ,
½ tablespoon grated fresh wasabi the broccoli stem. Cut the tender arrange on a small pretty platter,
• ½ teaspoon flaky sea salt part of the stem into similar size and strew with the radish slices.
8 radishes, sliced into paper-thin pieces. Blanch in the salted boiling Drizzle the kimizu dressing over the
rounds water for l minute. Scoop out with salad and serve as a side dish.
a wire-mesh sieve, spread out on
a tea towel-lined plate , and place
the plate in the refrigerator to chill
the broccoli.
Bring the pot of water back to a

boil over high heat. In a metal bowl
(that will fit snugly over the pot
of water), whisk togeth er the egg
yolks, vinegar, mirin, and potato
starc h until smooth. Stir in ½ cup
74 AEMONO - DRESSED
SESAME-DRESSED GREENS
AND CARROTS
Preparation time: IO minutes This dish is quick to execute , so Bring a pot of water to a boil. Place
Cooking time, IO minutes works well for lunch or a casual the chicken tenders in a wire-mesh
Serves, 4 evening meal. Substitute spinach sieve and dip into boiling water for
or mustard greens if komatsuna 2 minutes. (if using chicken breast ,
6½ oz (185 g) komatsuna Uapanese mustard greens] are not dip in for 7 minutes.) Shake off
(Japanese mustard greens] available. excess water an d tear into shreds.
• I small carrot, scrubbed
r' /• cups (ro fl oz/3 00 mi) Katsuobushi Bring a lar ge pot of salted water In a sma ll, dry frying pan, toast
Dashi (page 156) to a boil over high heat. Lower the the sesame seeds over medium
½ tablespoon mirin komatsuna stem ends into the water heat until fragrant , shaking the
½ teaspoon flaky sea salt (do not let go) for a count of pan and lifting off the heat if
· 2 tab lespoons soy sauc e IO seconds , then submerge the needed to avoid scorching. While
2 sasami [chicken tenders] or greens in the boiling water and still hot , pound the seeds in a
(3'/• oz/roo g) skin less, boneless cook 30 seconds . Drain and suribachi[grinding bowl] or whirl
chicken breast refresh under cold running water the seeds in a spice / nut grinder
4 1/2 tablespoons (r oz/3 0 g) gold or in an ice bath. Drain well. Pat until mostly broken down. Whisk
sesame seeds dry and cut crosswise into in the remaining I tablespoon soy
l ½ tablespoons go ld sesame oil ¾-r¼-inch (2-3 cm) length s. sauce and 1/+ teaspoon salt and the
reserved r½ tablespoons dashi. Once
Cut the carrot into thin combined, whisk in the sesame oil
rectangular pieces ½ x r 3/• inches until emulsified.
(I cm x 4 cm). Measure out
r ½ tablespoon of the dashi into a Toss the komatsuna,carrot, and
small bowl and set aside. Add the chicken with the dressing and serve.
rest of the dashito a saucepan and
add the mirin , ¼ teaspoon of salt , [Qj P-77
and I tablespoon of the soy sauce.
Bring to a simmer over medium-
high heat, drop in the carrot, and
simmer for I minute. Scoop out
with a small wire-mesh sieve and
discard the simmering mixture.
STEAMED EGGPLANT
WITH SESAME
Preparation time: IO minutes , plus Though eggplant (aubergine) loves heat for 5 minutes on each side ,
co oling time oil and becomes silky when fried, until softened but not falling apart.
Cooking time, 5 minutes steaming it can produce a similar Remove from the steamer and
Serves, 6 texture without the grease . let cool.
• I lb 2 oz (500 g) , Japanese eggplants Set up a steamer and bring the Arrange the eggplant slices
(aubergines) , ste m ends trimmed water to a boil. Peel the eggplant attractively on a platter and sprinkle
· I teaspoon flaky sea salt (aubergine) lengthwise at intervals with the sesame seeds and soy sau ce .
tablespoon black sesame seeds ,
• I to crea te a striped effect. Cut Sprinkle the katsuobushiover the
warmed in a small, dry frying pan lengthwise into slices ½ inch platter and serve immediately with
• 2 tablespoons soy sauce (12 mm) thick. Sprinkle with the other Japanese dishes.
I large handful freshly shaved salt. Arrange the eggplant side by
katsuobushi or hanakatsuo side in the steamer basket, cover,
and steam the eggplant over high
AEMONO - DRESSED
EGGPLANT IN SESAME MISO
Preparation time: 20 minutes, Eggplant (aubergine), a summer In a small, dry frying pan, warm the
plus 20 minutes cooling time vegetable, is eaten in myriad ways sesame seeds until fragrant. Slide
Cooking time: 15 minutes inJapan. Although commonly into a suribachi[grinding bowl] and
Serves : 6 fried, steaming the eggplant and smash until they are powdery and
dressing it with sesame yields a have partially broken down but are
I lb 2 oz (500 g) Japanese eggplants naturally light, yet creamy warm - not paste-like . Mash in the miso,
(aubergines), stem ends cut off weather dish. mirin, and reserved steaming liquid
• ½ teaspoon flaky sea salt to make a light, creamy sauce.
• 2 tablespoons sake Set up a steamer and bring the
4 tablespoons white sesame seeds water to a boil. Once cool enough to handle , halve
• 2 tablespoons inaka miso the eggplant crosswise and cut or
• I tablespoon mirin Peel the eggplant (aubergine) tear lengthwise into % - inch (1 cm)
¼ teaspoon ichimi togarashi lengthwise at intervals to create a strips. Toss with the sesame sauce,
[powderedJapanese red chile] striped effect. Place in a heatproof sprinkle with the ichimitogarashi,and
dish that will fit in a steamer basket serve.
and rub with the salt. Sprinkle with
the sake. Place in the steamer basket, [Q'] P-79
cover, and steam until collapsed ,
about 30 minutes. Turn once
after 15 minutes for even cooking.
Drain off the liquid from the dish
and reserve . Allow the eggplant
to cool to room temperature ,
about 20 minutes.
WALNUT-DRESSED
CHRYSANTHEMUM PETALS
Preparation time: 20 minutes Chrysanthemum flowers seem Warm the walnuts in a small, dry
Cooking time: 30 seconds to have fallen out of favor. Still, frying pan until fragrant and
Serves: 6 they are worth seeking out , as they pound in a suribachi[grinding
can add a bit of spark to a simple bowl], or process in a mini-prep
2 tablespoons rice vinegar vegetable treatment. They pair or nut grinder until broken down
• (5 ¼ oz/r50 g) fresh edible well here with the creamy walnut to a paste. Leave the nuts in the
chrysanthemum flowers , about dressing. suribachiand mash in the dashi, mirin,
36 medium miso, and salt . If the mixture is
• r¾ oz (50 g) walnuts In a pot, bring 4 cups (32 fl oz/ stiff, dribble in a bit more dashito
I tablespoon K.atsuobushi Dashi I liter) water and the vinegar to a loosen . Fold in the petals until
(page 156) , plus more as needed boil over high heat. Set up a bowl the dressing is well incorporated
• l tablespoon mirin of ice water in the sink. Pull the and serve.
I tablespoon brown rice miso petals off of the center portion of
• I pinch of flaky sea salt the flower and drop into a wire-
mesh sieve. Dip the sieve in and out
of the pot of boiling water. Shake
off the hot water and plunge into
the bowl of ice water to cool. Once
cool, blot dry in a clean tea towel.
AEMONO - DRESSED
GREEN BEANS WITH SMASHED
TOFU AND SESAME
Preparation time: 40 minutes Crispy green beans and creamy , In a small , dry frying pan , toast the
Cooking time: 5 minutes smashed tofu juxtapose nicely. You white sesame seeds over medium
Serves: 6 can add a bit of color with some heat until fragrant , shaking the pan
salt - massaged julienned carrots or and lifting off the heat if needed
I (10½ oz/300 g) momendofu or throw in a protein, such as thinly to avoid scorching. Slide into a
Japanese-style soft block tofu sliced pork. Cress or mitsuba can also suribachi[grinding bowl] or spice /
¾ lb (350 g) thin green beans, topped brighten the dish. nut grinder and process until
2 usuage [deep - fried tofu pouches] , powdery.
quartered Set the tofu on a cutting board
3 tablespoons white sesame seeds and prop it up with a small plate Squeeze the tofu by handfuls to
• Q tablespoons mirin to angle the board into the kitchen remove any last liquid and drop
I½ tablespoons usukuchi shoyu sink (to catch drips). Lay another into the suribachi. Sma sh in the mirin,
• I large pinch of flaky sea salt cutting board on top of the tofu to usukuchish~u , and salt using the
I tablespoon black sesame seeds, press out moisture for QO minutes. surikogi[grinding pestle]. Fold in
warmed in a small, dry frying pan the green beans , usuage, and black
In a medium pot of boiling water , sesame seeds, smooth down the
blanch the green beans for sides and serve, as is, in the suribachi.
I minute . Scoop out of the water
(but keep it boiling), shake off @ p.81
the excess, and blot the beans dry
between two clean tea towels. Cut
crosssise, at a diagonal, into
1½-inch (4 cm) pieces . Place the
usuagequarters in a wire-mesh sieve
and dip it in and and of the boiling
water. Cool and blot dry the usuage
pieces. Stack and cut into short
strips¼ inch (6 mm) wide.
CARROT WITH SMASHED TOFU

AND WALNUTS
Preparation time: 40 minutes While carrots are typically julienned with a wire-mesh sieve , refresh
Cooking time, 5 minutes for smashed tofu treatments, under cold, running water, shake
Serves: 6 here cutting the carrots into fine off, and pat dry in a clean
rectangular pieces gives the dish tea towel .
5 oz (150 g) momendofu or Japanese- more texture .
style soft block tofu Gr ind the walnuts in a suribachi
7 oz (200 g) carrots, scrubbed Set the tofu on a cutting board [grinding bowl] or food processor
• 1 3/•oz (50 g) walnuts and prop it up with a small plate until almost paste-like . Squeeze the
• I teaspoon flaky sea salt to angle the board into the kitchen tofu between two cupped hands to
· ½ tablespoon mirin sink (to catch drips). Lay another remove the last bits of moisture and
cutting board on top of the tofu to drop into the suribachior a medium
press out moisture for 20 minutes. bowl. Mash with the salt and mirin
until fluffy. Fold in the carrots and
Cut the carrots into½ x I½-inch serve. It holds up well the next day
(12 x 40 mm) rectangular pieces as leftovers.
'I•inch (6 mm) thick. In a pot of
boiling salted water , blanch the
carrots for 2 minutes . Scoop out
80 AEMONO - DRESSED
SPINACH AND ENOKI
WITH SMASHED TOFU
Preparation time, I hour Shira-ae [smashed tofu treatments] Place the shirataki in a wire-mesh
Cooking time, 20 minutes usually contain one or two ingredi- sieve and dip in and out of the
Serves, 6 ents besides the dressing ( - ae) itself . po t of boiling water (you will use
The combination of ingredients the pot of boiling water, so keep
2 (10½ oz / 300 g each) momendofu makes for a gorgeous dish . it handy). Shake off, cut crosswise
or Japanese-style soft into ¾-inch (2 cm) lengths,
block tofu Set the tofu on a cutting board and and blot dry in a tea towel. In a
6 tablespoons white sesame seeds prop a small plate under it to angle medium saucepan, bring the dashi,
2 dried shiitake, soaked in ½ cup the board into the kitchen sink (to remaining 2 tablespoons usukuchi
(4 fl oz/125 ml) boiling water catch drips). Lay another cutting sh£Jlu, and the flaky sea salt to a
for 30 minutes board on top of the tofu to press simmer over medium heat. Drop
3 tablespoons usukuchi shoyu out moisture for 20 minutes. in the shiratakiand simmer for
· 2 tablespoons mirin IO minutes to gently absorb flavor.
I tablespoon rice vinegar In a small, dry frying pan , toast Cool in the pan.
· 8 tablespoons kigiku [fresh the sesame seeds over medium
chrysanthemum petals], from heat until fragrant, shaking the Fill another medium pot three-
about 4 large flowers pan and lifting off the heat if quarters of the way up with water.
• 7 oz (200 g) shirataki noodles needed to avoid scorching. Slide Add the fine sea salt, and bring
I cup (8 fl oz/250 mi) Konbu Dashi the seeds into a suribachi[grinding back to a boil over high heat. Halve
(page 156) bowl] or a spice/nut grinder and the enoki crosswise and place in a
½ teaspoon flaky sea salt grind until well broken down and wire-mesh sieve. Dip in and out
· 2 tablespoons fine sea salt almost pastelike. Squeeze the tofu of the boiling water and cool. Press
7 oz (200 g) enoki mushrooms, by handfuls to remove any last gently in a clean tea towel to blot
bottoms trimmed off moisture, and drop into the suribachi dry. Hold the spinach stems in the
· 14 oz (400 g) spinach along with the ground sesame seeds. boiling water used for the enoki for
30 seconds. Drop them all in, push
Reserving the soaking liquid, scoop down to submerge in the water,
out the shiitakeand thinly slice cross- and cook for another 30 seconds.
wise. Pour the shiitakesoaking liquid Scoop out from the water with a
into a small saucepan and season wire - mesh sieve and refresh under
with I tablespoon of the usukuchish,zyu cold running water to cool. Pick up
and the mirin. Add the sliced shiitake the stem ends and squeeze down to
and simmer for IO minutes . Let the leaves to remove excess water.
cool in the simmering liquid.
Drape across a cutting board and
Bring a medium pot of water to cut crosswise into ¾-inch (2 cm)
a boil over high heat. Measure out lengths .
a generous 2 cups (17 fl oz/500 ml)
of the boiling water and add the Drain the shiitakeand shiratakiand
vinegar to it. (But keep the pot of mix with a pair of chopsticks into
water at a boil.) Drop the kigiku into the tofu-sesame mixture with the
a wire-mesh sieve and pour the enoki and spinach until all of the
vinegared hot water over the petals. ingredients are well incorporated .
Run cold water over to cool. Shake Garnish with the kigikuand serve.
off the excess water and squeeze It holds up well for a couple of days
gently in a clean tea towel. if stored in the refrigerator , though
there will be some seepage.
AEMONO - DRESSED
FIDDLEHEAD FERNS WITH
SMASHED TOFU AND WALNUTS
Preparation time: 30 minutes The creamy tofu smooths out the cook for another 20 seconds.
Cooking time: 5 minutes slight bitterness of fiddlehead fe r ns Drain the fiddleheads and cut cross-
Serves: 6 and the toasted walnuts add a nutty wise into 1½-inch (4 cm) lengths .
ri chness.
5 oz (150 g) momendofu or In a small, dry frying pan, warm the
Japanese-style soft block tofu Set the tofu on a cutting board and walnuts until fragrant and smash
• 3 ½ oz (JOO g) young fiddlehead ferns prop a small plate underneath to to a paste in a suribachi Uapanese
· I¾ oz (50 g) walnuts angle the board into the kitchen grinding bowl]. Squeeze the tofu by
• I tablespoon soy sauce sink (to catch drips). Lay another handfuls and mash into the walnuts
• ½ tablespoon mirin cutting board on top of the tofu to with the soy sauce, mirin, and salt
• I pinch of flaky sea salt press out moisture for 20 minutes. until fluffy . Fold in the fiddleheads
and serve.
Bring a medium pot filled half
way with water to a boil. Hold the
fiddlehead stems in the water for IO
seconds, then drop in the water and
NATTO-TOPPED
VEGETABLE SALAD
Preparation time: 20 minutes The texture differences between Drain the apple cubes and press off
Serves: 4 the different components make this the residual water inside a clean tea
salad unusual, and the mayonnaise- towel. Take out 4 salad plates and
I teaspoon fine sea salt based natto sauce ties the ingredients set I piece of iceberg on each to
I small, sweet apple, peeled and cut together . Kraft Parmesan cheese act as a cup for the chopped salad.
into ¾-inch (1.5 cm) cubes has been ubiquitous to the Japanese Divide the salad vegetables among
• I teaspoon flaky sea salt kitchen since the 1970s , though the 4 plates in the following order:
• I small yellow or red onion, here it is updated as freshly grated avocado , appl e, daikonsprouts,
finely chopped Parmigiana- Reggiano . parsley , and onion . Drizzle with
I package (3 oz/85 g) natto, well the natto sauce and sprinkle with
aerated (see Note, page 46) Stir to dissolve the fine sea salt into the Parmigiano-Reggiano. Serve
½ cup (4 fl oz/J20 mi) Japanese I cup (8 fl oz/250 mi) cold water . immediately.
Mayonnaise (page 32) Drop the apple cubes into the
½ teaspoon mustard powder salt water and soak until needed.
I tablespoon usukuchi shoyu Massage ½ teaspoon of the flaky salt
• I teaspoon fresh lemon juice into the chopped onion, drop into
• 4 crispy inner leaves of iceberg lettuce a wire - mesh sieve and rinse quickly
5
I medium avocado, cut into /a-inch with cold, running water. Shake off
(1.5 cm) cubes excess water and blot dry in a clean
2 1/+ oz (65 g) daikon sprouts , tea towel.
cut off their sponge base
I large handful Italian or curly parsley, Scrape the natto onto a chopping
finely chopped board and chop with a sharp
2 tablespoons freshly grated knife until almost paste-like. In
Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese a small bowl, whisk together the
mayonnaise, mustard powder ,
usukuchish'!)'u, and lemon juice .
Stir in the chopped natto to make
a sauce for the salad.
AEMONO - DRESSED
KABOCHA WITH
SMASHED TOFU
Preparation time: I hour Smashed tofu dishes make protein - Drain the shiitake,pare off the stems
Cooking time, IO minutes rich creamy additions to any meal. and discard. Blot the caps dry and
Serves, 6 thinly slice. Drain the shiratakiin a
Set the tofu on a cutting board and wire-mesh sieve and pour boiling
2 (IO½ oz/300 g each) momendofu or prop a small plate underneath to water over for IO seconds. Shake off
Japanese -sty le soft block tofu angle the board into the kitchen excess water, blot dry, and cut into
% cup (3 oz/85 g) gold sesame seeds sink (to catch drips). Lay another ¾-inch (3 cm) lengths. Place in a
• I½ tablespoons soy sauce cutting board on top of the tofu to medium bowl with the shiitake.Toss
• I tablespoon mirin press out moisture for 20 minutes. with the remaining ½ tablespoon
Neutral oil such as canola (rapeseed), each soy sauce and mirinand fold
peanut, or safflower, for deep-frying Heat a large frying pan over into the tofu mixture.
% lb (300 g) lightly peeled kabocha medium - high heat and once the
(Japanese pumpkin) , cut into heat rises from the surface of the Cut the carrot crosswise into
1
% - inch (I cm) cubes pan, dump in the sesame seeds. I /•-inch (3 cm) lengths and slice
2 dried shiitake, soa ked in hot water Shake and roast lightly to bring out those into thin slivers. Massage
for 30 minutes the natural oils, taking care not to in the flaky sea salt and drop into
3 ½ oz (100 g) shirataki noodle scorch or burn. Pulverize well in the bowl of smashed tofu and
· Boiling water a suribachi [grinding bowl] or spice/ shiratakialong with the cooled , fried
I small carrot, scrubbed nut grinder until broken down but kabocha. Set the seri in a wire-mesh
¼ teaspoon flaky sea salt not yet paste-like. Pass the pressed sieve and pour a steady stream of
• I large handful seri tofu through a wire-mesh sieve into boiling water over it for IO seconds.
Qapanese wild parsley] the bowl with the ground sesame Cool in cold, running water and
seeds . Fold in I tablespoon of squeeze gently with your hands
the soy sauce and ½ tablespoon to remove excess water. Slice into
of the mirin. ¾-inch (2 cm) lengths and mix
into the sesame-tofu mixture with
Pour 3 '/• inches ( 8 cm) oil into a pair of chopsticks until all of
a heavy medium pot and heat over the ingredients have been evenly
medium-high heat until hot but di stri but ed . Serve immediately.
not smoking. Working in batches
(do not crowd the pot), drop the
kabocha cubes into the oil and
fry until golden brown. Drain on
absorbent paper towels until cool.
86 AEMONO - DRESSED
OKARA POTATO SALAD
Preparation time, 45 minutes Okoro is the by-product of making Slide the drained potatoes into a
Cooking time, 15 to 20 minutes soy milk and is often called large bowl and mash with a potato
Serves, 6 "soybean pulp " in English. Adding masher while still hot. Let cool
okoro to this potato salad lightens completely .
2 lb IO oz (1. 2 kg) potatoes this casual side dish . In the
• I tablespoon fine sea salt summer, slice Japanese cucumbers Cut off the carrot top end and
• I large carrot , scrubbed in thin rounds, salt lightly for IO tip, halve lengthwise, and slice
I cup (2 ½ oz/ 75 g) dried okara minutes, squeeze, and add with the crosswise into thin half-moons.
[soy pulp] carrot and onion. Add the carrot to the potatoes,
I small red onion, slivered along with the reconstituted okoro
I teaspoon flaky sea salt, plus more Peel the potatoes and cut into large and squeezed red onion . Sprinkle
as needed chunks. Place in a heavy medium with the flaky sea salt and vinegar
Q tablespoons rice vinegar pot, cover with cold water, and before mixing in the mayonnaise.
1¼ cups (10 fl oz/ 300 ml) Japanese add the fine sea salt . Bring to a Add a few drops of vinegar or
Mayonnaise (page 32) boil over high heat and slip in the pinches of flaky sea salt to taste.
I handful chopped Italian parsley carrot. Boil the carrot until half Fold in the parsley and serve .
cooked , about 7 minutes. Remove
with a pair of tongs and cool in
a sieve. Continue cooking the
potatoes until they can be pierced
easily with a bamboo skewer or
fork, but are not falling apart,
about 5 more minutes. Drain in
a colander for 8-10 minutes .
Meanwhile, mix scant I cup

(7½ fl oz/225 ml) cold water into
the dried okoroand let sit for a
few minutes to absorb the water
completely. Toss the red onion
with I pinch of flaky sea salt and
let sit for IO minutes before gently
squeezing out the water.
AEMONO - DRESSED
TOFU FLAVORED SIX WAYS
Preparation time, 20 minutes, plus If possible, seek out the best Toss the tomato and edamamewith
30 minutes soaking time handmade artisanal tofu for this the fine sea salt and add to the bowl
Cooking time, 5 minutes dish, as it makes a big difference. with the cabbage. Drain the chatsai
Serves, 6 Make this dish in the summer and slice into julienne strips. Slide
when tomatoes and edamame are the chatsai and sesame seeds into the
For the dressing, in season. bowl with the cabbage, tomato, and
2 tablespoons rice vinegar edamame.Add the dressing and toss.
• I tablespoon usukuchi shoyu Make the dressing, In a small bowl, Strew the tofu cubes on top of the
• 2 tablespoons gold sesame oil combine the rice vinegar and salad and serve.
½ teaspoon rayu [red chile oil] usukushishqyu. Slowly whisk in the
sesame oil and r'!Yuto emulsify.
For the tofu,
2 large handfuls unshelled edamame Prepare the tofu, In a pot of
• ½ teaspoon flaky sea salt boiling water, cook the edamame
1
h lb (150 g) green cabbage, cut for 3 minutes. Drain and shell
crosswise into thin strips the beans.
I medium tomato, cut into
%-inch (r cm) cubes Massage the flaky sea salt into the
¼ teaspoon fine sea salt shredded cabbage and let sit for
r small piece (r oz/25 g) cha tsai IO minutes, then lift out in
[ Chinese pickled mustard stem]. soaked handfuls (leaving the salt in the
in 2 cups (16 fl oz/500 ml) cold water bottom of the bowl) and squeeze
for 30 minutes gently to remove moisture.
I tablespoon white sesame seeds, lightly Drop the squeezed cabbage into
toasted in a small, dry frying pan a medium serving bowl.
• I (ro½ oz/300 g) momendofu or
Japanese-style soft block tofu, cut into
%-inch (1 cm) cubes
88 AEMONO - DRESSED
I
Ill
I I
Ill
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I I
I I I
I I
I
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Ill
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Ill
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I I
I I I
I I
I
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namamono
RAW
NAMAMONO - RAW
Raw fish is ubiquitous in Japan and the raw course in the

Japanese meal is arguably the most gorgeous , and possibly
the mo st anticipated. In the simplest form , sash i mi consists
of sparklingly fresh thick or thin slices of fish arranged in
a tightly compact row or draped across the plate. The fish
might also be treated beforehand: vinegared to cure or kelp-
wicked to firm up the flesh. And some fish, such as skipjack
tuna (erroneously translated into English as bonito) , is
often flash seared on the outside and left rare on the inside.
Other fish , such as those with slightly tough , flavorful skin ,
are doused with a hot water stream to improve the texture.
The vessel on which the namamono is plated is also a
crucial component to the presentation, as is the tsuma,
the accompanying aromatics adorning the sashimi . These
aromatics could be chopped green onion , mitsuba [a bright
herb] , mizuna or komatsuna [both Japanese mustard greens] ,
slivered daikon threads, thinly sliced n:!)'Oga,
shiso buds, cress-
the list can go on and on. Occasionally, one will find a
dollop of momiji oroshi [grated daikon and dried red chile] next
to the chopped green onion tops . There will always be dabs
of grated wasabi (hopefully fresh) , as well as grated ginger, if
squid or silver - skinned fish are part of the sashim i course.
Raw dishes are either served on individual dishes or on a
platter to share . Each person gets one or two small saucers
of soy sauce for dipping the fish (some restaurants provide
two : one for dipping ginger-related fish and the other for
wasabi- related) . Diners smear a bit of wasabi or ginger on
the fish and dangle a corner of the fish into the soy sauce
before eating . ¼asabi or ginger are not put directly in the soy
sauce and the fish should never be completely submerged or
"marinated" in the soy sauce. Less is more here.
92 ~~ NAMAMONO - RAW
SEA PINEAPPLE AND CUCUMBER
IN SWEET VINEGAR
Preparation time, 25 minutes Sea pineapple , an edible sea Roll the cucumbers on a cutting
Serves, 6 creature, perhaps because of its board to soften, pare the ends off,
chewy texture or flavor reminiscent and slice into fine rounds. Toss
2 fresh sea pineapples (14 oz/ 400 g) of iodine, can be an acquired with the salt and leave to macerate
7 oz (200 g) Japanese cucumbers taste. Though aficionados prefer for IO minutes.
• ¼ teaspoon flaky sea salt unadorned sea pineapple , serving
2 tablespoons brown rice vinegar it with cucumbers and dressing In a small bowl , stir together the
2 tablespoons usukuchi shoyu or softens the unusual experience of vinegar and usukuchish'!)'U-
soy sauce eating this sea squirt.
Leaving any salt particles that
Slit the sea pineapple through the have not dissolved , pick up the
two siphon holes, and about cucumbers with your fingers , shake
2 inches (5 cm) beyond, following off, and toss in a clean bowl with
the curve of the body. While the sea pineapple and the vinegar
rinsing under cold running water , mixture. Serve immediately for
pull out the orange meat inside. the crunchiest effect, though if
Trim off any discolored portions chilled, this treatment holds up
or tendril-like filaments from the to the next day .
meat. Separate the halves, pat dry ,
and cut crosswise into ¼--inch
(5 mm) slices.
SHIME SABA
Preparation time: 20 minutes, Shimesaba [vinegar-cured mackerel] Spread the konbu in a container
plus 12 hours marinating time is usually prepared by heavily just large enough to hold the fillets
Serves, 6 salting, then treating the fish with and lay the fish on top of the konbu,
vinegar. This recipe has less salt skin-side up. Pour the vinegar
l large ultra-fresh mackerel but more vinegar and a longer soak mixture over the mackerel, cover ,
(11/, lb/600 g) , cleaned time. Raw fish treatments, such and refrigerate for 12 hours.
3 tablespoons fine sea salt as shimesaba, cannot be done with
• 3 tablespoons rice vinegar previously frozen fish , and for Remove from the vinegar mixture ,
• 3 tablespoons mirin safety's sake need to be prepared blot dry with absorbent paper
• 6-inch (15 cm) piece konbu with very fresh fish. towels, and cut into diagonal
l tablespoon slivered fresh ginger sashimi slices with a razor-sharp
Sudachi halves or lemon wedges Fillet the mackerel (leave the skin knife. Slide the knife under the
(optional) on) and pluck out any small pin slices and arrange attractively on
bones from the flesh with a pair of a ceramic salad plate. Sprinkle with
flat tweezers. Rinse the fillets well the ginger. Provide sudachihalves
in cold water and pat dry. Sprinkle or wedges of lemon if more acid
on all sides with the fine sea salt. is desired. The fish is best within
In a small bowl, whisk together the 1-2 days of preparing, though you
vinegar and mirin. should cut as needed for serving.
93 NAMAMONO - RAW
KONNYAKU SASHIMI
WITH SESAME MISO
Preparation time: IO minutes Mountainous areas separated the ground sesame into the miso
Cooking time, 5 minutes from the sea prepare this dish as mixture , add the mustard, and stir
Serves, 4 a substitute for sashimi. all together.
I block (9 oz / 250 g) white konnyaku, Set up a bowl of ice water in the Drain the kon'!Yakuand pat dry with
halved crosswise sink. In a pot of rapidly boiling a clean tea towel. Cut into fine
4 tablespoons brown rice miso water, blanch the kon'!}akufor slices . Make individual small plates
· 2 tablespoons mirin 2 minutes. Scoop out with a wire- for serving each person , Drape
2 tablespoons rice vinegar mesh sieve and plunge into the ice 5 slices over a chopstick and lay
2 tablespoons gold sesame seeds water to cool. them on a small plate so that they
w I teaspoon mustard powder are curled in half. Rest another
• A few small sprigs parsley In a small saucepan, stir the miso, 5 slices on top of the first row of
mirin, and vinegar over low heat to slices, leaving about% inch (r cm)
warm . In a small , dry frying pan , of the bottom slices peaking out.
toast the sesame seeds over medium Spoon some of the miso sauce onto
heat until fragrant, shaking the pan the plate for dipping the kon'!Yaku
and lifting off the heat if needed and garnish with a sprig of parsley.
to avoid scorching. Slide into a
suribachi[grinding bowl] or spice /
nut grinder and grind well until
completely broken down. Scrape
MOUNTAIN YAM WITH

EDAMAME AND NORI
Preparation time: 20 minutes Grated nagaimo [mountain yam] is Peel the nagaimo and grate it in a
Cooking time, 5 minutes a creamy white vehicle for cooked circular motion using an oroshigane
Serves, 6 green soybeans and jet-black nori Uapanese grating plate] or a wide,
threads. The colors in this dish fine-toothed Microplane into a
2½ cups (5¼ oz/200 g) unshelled are particularly vibrant and worth medium bowl. Spoon the grated
edamame duplicating, even if the idea of yams into small individual bowls.
1
/2 sheet nori trying raw, slippery yam seems Strew the cooked edamamebeans and
I medium naga imo [mountain yam], offputting-grated mountain nori threads over the grated yam ,
(12 ½ oz/350 g) yam is delightfully slurpable and dab with grated wasabi, if you have
I teaspoon grated fresh wasabi delicious. Eat as is for a refreshing it, drizzle with soy sauce, and serve.
(optional) pick - me-up or with a bowl of Bring the bowl to the mouth and
I tablespoon soy sauce Japanese rice. Nagaimo is itchy, so guide the grated nogoimo in with
don rubber gloves if you want to chopsticks, using a slurping sound .
avoid a few minutes of lingering The viscosity is unusual-it is at
discomfort after grating. once slippery and creamy.
Bring a pot of water to a boil over @ p.95

high heat. Dump in the fresh
edamameand boil for 3 minutes.
Drain in a colander, cool to room
temperature , and pop the beans
out of their pods . Cut the nori into
quarters and snip crosswise into
fine threads and reserve .
94 NAMAMONO - RAW
GRATED DAIKON
WITH SALMON ROE
Preparation time: 30 minutes Salmon roe takes patience to coax Fill a medium bowl with lukewarm
Serves: 6 from its sac, but is well worth water and slip the roe sac into the
the effort. Outside of Japan, it water. Working slowly and patiently ,
I 1/, cups (14 oz/ 400 g) finely grated might be hard to find fresh roe, pry the roe out of the sac and drop
daikon, strained so in that case it is still wise to into a small wire-mesh sieve set
I sac (7 oz/200 g) fresh salmon roe wash the cleaned, salted roe in the over a bowl to catch drips. Once
½ cup (4 fl oz/125 ml) sake sake. lnjapan, there is no better all of the roe has been freed from
• ½ tablespoon soy sauce accompaniment to salmon roe than the sac membranes, rinse the roe
grated daikon. If the daikonis fresh, with the sakein a small bowl. Swish
there is no need to peel it. Scrub the salmon eggs around for a few
with a tawashi[vegetable brush] and seconds with your fingers and drain.
grate on an oroshiganeUapanese
grating plate] before serving. Serve Spoon the roe over the grated daikon
as an amuse-bouche or as part of and drizzle each serving with
1
a ,::ensai
course (page 28). Best with /, teaspoon soy sauce.
chilled sake or champagne.
@ p.97
Spoon the strained daikoninto
6 sobadipping cups or small bowls.
VINEGARED MACKEREL
WITH DAIKON
Preparation time: 30 minutes, plus Shime Saba (page 93) is a classic Meanwhile, massage the flaky salt
4 1/2 hours salting and marinating time cure for eating mackerel as sushi into the daikon, carrot, scallion
Serves: 6 and sashimi. Here it becomes more (spring onion), and ginger. Let sit
of a marinated salad but without for IO minutes, then squeeze gently
I ultra-fresh mackerel (1 1h lb/600 g) , the oil. to remove moisture. Toss in with
cleaned the fish for the last IO minutes of
3 tablespoons fine sea salt Fillet the mackerel, pull the skin its sweet vinegar soak.
· 6 tablespoons rice vinegar off the fillets, and pluck out the
• 2 tablespoons mirin pin bones with tweezers. Holding Pull the fish slices out from the
• I large pinch of flaky sea salt the knife at an angle to the cutting julienned vegetables and arrange
3 ½ oz (100 g) daikon, finely julienned board, cut the fillets into slices in attractive overlapping lines on a
• I small carrot, finely julienned ½ inch (12 mm) thick. Place the serving platter. Strew the vegetables
• 2 tablespoons slivered scallion slices in a gallon-size resealable in the free areas around the fish
(spring onion) food storage bag and toss with the and serve as a first course or part
2 tablespoons slivered fresh ginger fine salt. Refrigerate for 4 hours. of a buffet. (Alternatively , serve on
individual small plates.) This dish
Whisk the vinegar and mirin together keeps vibrant for 1-2 days.
and pour over the fish. Allow to
marinate for 30 minutes .
96 NAMAMONO - RAW
SHIRATAKI NOODLES
WITH COD ROE
Preparation time, 15 minutes Cod roe is readily available in Japan water and, while still hot, slide
Serves, 6 and the sacs are easily prepared (as into a medium serving bowl with
opposed to the time-consuming the enoki mushrooms. Toss with the
IO oz (300 g) shirataki noodles job of prying salmon roe from its usukuchish~u.
• Boiling water sac). Raw cod roe has a mild flavor
3½ oz (100 g) enoki mushrooms, with a creamy texture. Break open the roe sacs and
bottoms trimmed off, halved crosswise scrape small pieces of roe into the
• 2 tablespoons usukuchi shoyu Cut the shiratakinoodles crosswise noodles with your fingers. Toss
· 2 cod roe sacs (10 ½ oz/ 300 g) into 2-inch (5 cm) lengths. Drop the cucumbers with the noodles
5' /• oz (150 g) Japanese cucumbers, into a wire-mesh sieve and pour a and serve.
unpee led , cut into julienne 1'/• inches steady stream of boiling water over
(3 cm ) long them for I minute. Shake off excess
OYSTERS IN SWEET VINEGAR

WITH YUZU
Preparation time: 20 minutes Ultra - fresh oysters are essential for ice bath to shock and refresh . Once
Cooking time, 30 seconds this bright dish. cool to the touch, scoop the oysters
Serves, 6 out of the ice water and shake off. If
Place a medium bowl in the kitchen lar ge, halve those oysters crosswise
• 2 tablespoons fine sea salt sink . Add I quart (32 fl oz/r liter) on the diagonal.
IO oz (300 g) freshly shucked oysters cold water and stir in the fine salt.
· 3 tablespoons rice vinegar Place the oysters in a wire - mesh In a small bowl , stir together the
• I tablespoon usukuchi shoyu sieve and plunge into the salt water. vinegar, and mirin.
usukuchish'?,Yu,
• I tablespoon mirin Swish around a little, then rinse In a smallish serving bowl, toss
14 oz (400 g) daikon, scrubbed, finely with cold , running water. Shake off the sieved grated daikonwith the
grated, and drained excess water. dressing. Fold in the oysters, gar-
2 teaspoons finely slivered yuzu or nish with the yuzu zest , and serve
Meyer lemon zest Set up a bowl of ice water in the right away.
sink, Bring a medium pot of water
to a boil. Dunk the sieve holding @ p.99
the oysters into the boiling water
and hold them there until the
outside of the oysters start to turn
white , about 30 seconds. Pull them
out of the water and plunge into the
98 NAMAMONO - RAW
SQUID AND JELLYFISH
WITH MUSTARD VINEGAR
Preparation time, 45 minutes, plus Finding packaged salted jellyfish and pour boiling water over for
20 minutes soaking time and 20 minutes without additives or MSG might IO seconds. Immediately plunge
marinating time be challenging , but if you do, into the ice bath to refresh. Pat dry
Serves, 6 this crunchy salad will pleasantly and cut into thin strips r¼ inches
surprise you. (3 cm) long.
r3/+ oz (50 g) salted jellyfish
I small squid (5 1/+ oz/r50 g), cleaned Soak the jellyfish in several changes Roll the cucumber on a cutting
(see Note on the following recipe below) of cold water for 20 minutes to board to soften, then finely
• Boiling water remove the salt. Scoop the jellyfish julienne . In a small bowl, whisk
3 ½ oz (roo g) Japanese cucumber out with a wire-mesh sieve and together the vinegar, soy sauce,
• I tablespoon rice vinegar rinse one last time under cold, mirin, mustard powder, and sesame
• I tablespoon soy sauce running water. Pat dry . oil. Toss the dressing with the
• ¾, teaspoon mirin jellyfish, cucumber, and squid and
Iteaspoon mustard powder Set up a bowl of ice water in the leave to marinate for 20 minutes
½ teaspoon gold sesame oil sink. Put the squid body, tentacles, before serving. This is best the first
and tail fin into a wire-mesh sieve day, but also fine the next.
MUSTARD-DRESSED SQUID
AND CUCUMBER
Preparation time: 30 minutes Japanese squid is pristinely white In a bowl, stir the soy sauce, sake,
Serves, 6 with a mild flavor and a pleasantly and sesame oil into the mustard
creamy texture. Here, crisp powder until emulsified. Toss the
I ultrafresh squid (5¼ oz/r50 g) , cucumber makes an exceptional foil. squid and cucumbers with the
cleaned (see Note) dressing and serve immediately.
7 oz (200 g) Japanese cucumbers, Set up a bowl of ice water in the (Alternatively, add the dressing
halved lengthwise sink. Bring a pot of water to a boil. to the squid, refrigerate the
1/+teaspoon flaky sea salt Put the cut-up squid into a wire- squid and cucumbers in separate
• I½ tablespoons soy sauce mesh sieve. Dip the sieve in and out containers, and toss together when
• I teaspoon sake of the boiling water. Immediately ready to serve.)
teaspoon
• I gold sesame oil plunge into the ice bath to cool.
• ½ teaspoon mustard powder Drain and pat dry. Cut the body Note , To clean squid , grasp the
and fin into thin strips 1/+ inch tentacles and pull the guts out of
(5 mm) wide and r¼-r3/+ inches the squid. Pull out the plastic-
(3-4 cm) long. Slice the top stick-like "pen" (gladius) as well.
connected area of the tentacles to Slice the tentacle portion off of the
separate and if any tentacles are guts and discard the guts. Tear the
too long too eat in one bite, cut in tail fin off the body. Slice the body ,
half diagonally. lengthwise to open up flat. Rinse
under cold , running water, pulling
Slice the cucumber crosswise at off any lingering tendrils. Peel off
an acute diagonal into ¼-inch the skin as well .
(5 mm) pieces. Sprinkle with the
salt, toss to distribute , and let sit for (Q] p.IOI
5 minutes . Pick out the cucumber
pieces with your hands (rather than
dumping) and strew on a couple of
pieces of paper towel. Blot off the
excess moisture and salt.
IOO NAMAMONO - RAW

CHOPPED SARDINES WITH MISO
Preparation time, 15 minutes This is a popular dish with the While the fish is still on the cutting
Serves, 4 fishermen of the Boso and Izu board, spoon the miso, sesa me
peninsulas and is served alongside seeds, scallion (spring onion), and
6 fresh sardines (18½ oz/525 g) a bowl of hot rice. ginger or shisoover the chopped
• 2 teaspoons brown rice miso sardines. In a small measuring cup
• I teaspoon white sesame seeds Cut the heads off of the sardines (jug), mix the vinegar, soy sauce,
2 teaspoons finely chopped negi or and slice down through the belly . and mirin and sprinkle on the fish as
scallion (spring onion) Pull out the guts, vertebrae, and well. Chop the ingredients into the
2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger or tail and discard. Rinse the cleaned sardine using a very sharp fish or
julienned green shiso leaves fish under cold running water butcher knife until the mixture has
• I teaspoon rice vinegar and pat dry . Lay the fish on a amalgamated. It is best served when
½ teaspoon soy sauce cutting board and slice into thin freshly made.
• ½ teaspoon mirin strips lengthwise, then finely dice
crosswise. [Qj p.103
CITRUS- AND UME-DRESSED

DAIKON AND SARDINES
Preparation time: 50 minutes , plus The classic version of namasu is cutting board, and cut crosswise
3 hours marinating time made from daikon and carrots and at 1¼-inch (3 cm) intervals. Blot
Cooking time, 5 minutes is served during Japanese New dry with a clean tea towel.
Serves, 6-8 Year. The addition of ume, citrus,
and sardines here makes the Make the dressing, In a small bowl ,
For the sardines, combination unforgettable . whisk together the vinegar, mirin,
4 fresh sardines (121/, oz/350 g) natsumikanjuice, and salt to emulsify.
· 6-inch (15 cm) piece konbu Prepare the sard ines , Slice off the Toss the wakamewith the dressing.
· 2 ½ teaspoons flaky sea salt heads of the sa rdines and cu t down
• 4 tablespoons rice vinegar through the belly. Pull out the guts, When the fish have marinated
• I tablespoon mirin vertebrae, and tail and discard. for 3 hours, remove the sardines
10½ oz (300 g) daikon , scrubbed and Rinse under cold running water and discard the marinade and
finely julienned and pat dry. (Alternatively, have konbu. Cut the fillets crosswise
I small carrot, scrubbed and the fishmonger perform this task into %-inch (1 cm) slices. In a
finely julienned for you.) Lay the konbu in a shallow large salad bowl, toss together
½ stalk peeled udo (see Note) or I stalk rectangular contai ner and arrange the sardines, daikon, carrot, udo,
celery, julienned the fillets on top . Sprinkle both natsumikan, and sesame seeds. Tear
3 heaping tablespoons dried wakame, sides of the fish lightly with the pitted umeboshiby hand and
soaked in cold water for 20 minutes ½ teaspoon of the flaky salt. drop in to distribute evenly (the
• 314,natsumikan (substitute 3
/+ sour Sprinkle with the vinegar and mirin, flesh tends to clump if chopped
orange or ½ grapefruit), sectioned and cover, and leave in a cool place with a knife) .
membranes removed (if using grapefruit, or the refrigerator for 3 hours.
cut the sections in half) If possible, turn every 45 minutes Add the dressed wakameto the salad,
• 2 tablespoons white sesame see ds , for even marinating. toss to coat the vegetables, and serve.
lightly toasted and coarsely ground
2 umeboshi [salted sour plum]. pitted About I hour before the sardines Note, If you don 't plan on using
have finished marinating, slide the udo right away after cutting, soak
For the dressing, the daikon, carrot, and udo into a in a small bowl of cold water with
2 tablespoons rice vinegar medium bowl and massage in the a littl e lemon juice or rice vinegar.
• I tablespoon mirin remaining I teaspoon flaky salt. Drain and pat dry before using.
2 teaspoons natsumikan juice (squeezed Let sit for IO minutes, then squeeze
from the remaining ¼ natsumikan) or gently and drop by handfuls into
sour orange or grapefruit juce a clean bowl. Drain the wakame in
• I teaspoon flaky sea salt a wire-mesh sieve, lay out on a
102 NAMAMONO - RAW

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sunomono
VINEGARED
SUNOMONO - VINEGARED
Sunomono [vinegar-based dishes] are essentially oilless salads

in Japan, but sometimes the generous portion of the vinegar
dressing makes sunomono almost like quick pickles . The
simplest form of sunomono-vinegar sweetened with sugar or
mirin-seems to have experienced a fall in popularity with
the modern generations, and perhaps this is linked to the
post-war production oflow-quality rice vinegars. The more
acidic the vinegar, the more sugar is needed to offset the
inherent tartness. Mainstr"eam vinegars made on a large-
scale commercial basis at low cost are fabricated from ethyl
alcohol and a small amount of amazake [fermented rice
drink] to provide the rice and fermentation elements. These
vinegars do not contribute much depth of flavor to dishes-
nor does white sugar, for that matter. If used, these
mediocre materials will yield only satisfactory results
in your food.
Putting effort into sourcing top-quality ingredients
is both exciting and challenging. Sadly, there are only
a few vinegar producers in Japan brewing sake in-house
to ferment into vinegar. These vinegars are elegant and
flavorful, so are worth seeking out. Brown rice vinegar
fermented from in-house brewed brown rice sake has a
gentle profile. And brown rice vinegar fermented outside
in black stoneware pots in Kagoshima prefecture (called
black rice vinegar in Japan) has overtones of caramel. These
are not your run-of - the-mill vinegars found on every
supermarket shelf in Japan and abroad.
Japanese vinegar treatments, similar to Western pickles,
require a sweetening agent to balance them out. Using
organic sugar over its white counterpart will add floral notes
rather than just sweetness. That said, most (if not all) of the
vinegar treatments in this book call for mirin. The complexity
of a well-made mirin interacts beautifully with superior rice
vinegar, and the intermingling flavors become at once
intense, yet mild. Certainly, artisanal top-shelf products
cost more, but you need less, so there are inherent savings
in quantity used.
106 iJl'O)!fP.j SUNOMONO - VINEGARED

DAIKON AND DRIED
PERSIMMON WITH MITSUBA
Preparation time, 20 minutes, plus Daikonis in season in late winter , In a small saucepan , combine the
I hour macerating time just in time to be paired with dried sake and usukuchishczyuand bring to
Cooking time, 5 minutes persimmon. The mitsubaadds a a boil over high heat. Remove from
Serves, 6 bright spark to this dish . the heat. In a medum bowl , toss the
sake mixture with the hoshigaki,daikon,
I lb (450 g) daikon, scrubbed and Place the daikon slivers in a wire- shiitake, and yUsu zest. Let macerate
julienned mesh sieve and pour a steady stream at room temperature for I hour.
Boiling water of boiling water over them for
4 shiitake, stems discarded IO seconds. Shake once or twice to Cut the mitsubacrosswise into
• I yuzu or ½ Meyer lemon remove excess water and pat dry in ¾-inch (2 cm) pieces . Fold the
• 3 tablespoons sake a clean tea towel. mitsuba into the ma c erated mixture
2 tablespoons usukuchi shoyu and serve. It is best the first day,
4 hoshigaki [dried persimmons] , In a medium heavy frying pan, but still good the next (though the
topped, seeded, and julienned lightly grill the shiitakecaps over daikonwill release a bit of liquid) .
• I small bunch mitsuba medium heat for 2-3 minutes. Cut
into fine slices. Remove the yUsu
zest with a sharp knife and slice into
fine slivers . Squeeze the juice for
another dish, if you like.
VINEGARED TURNIPS
WITH DRIED PERSIMMONS
Preparation time: 40 minutes Turnips and fresh persimmons Reserving the marinade , drain
Serves, 6 complement each other beautifully , the turnip slices. Lay the turnip
both in flavor and color. This dish slices out on a clean baking sheet
6 small turnips, with tops uses hoshigaki[dried persimmons] , or a piece of parchment paper and
• ½ teaspoon flaky sea salt so it is a bit of a twist. These divide the hoshigakistrips among
2 tablespoons rice vinegar rolls make for an elegant passed them , arranging the strips across
• 2 tablespoons mirin appetizer, but the turnip and the bottom third of each turnip
• I teaspoon soy sauce hoshigakican just as easily be tossed round. Roll each round up and
2 hoshigaki[dried persimmons] as a casual salad. secure with a cocktail pick .
Finely slivered zest of ½ yuzu
or 1/+ Meyer lemon Cut the roots and tops off of the Arrange on an attractive platter,
turnips , leaving about ¾ inch drizzle with the reserved marinade ,
(I cm) of green stem. Scrub the strew with yu.zuzest, and serve.
turnips and cut from stem to root These stay well for several hours
1
end into rounds /+ inch (6 mm) at room temperature.
thick. Massage in the salt and let sit
for IO minutes. Squeeze gently by
handfuls , without breaking,
and drop into a clean bowl. Toss
with the vinegar, mirin , and soy
sauce and leave to marinate for
IO minutes.
Meanwhile , cut the hoshigakiin half

lengthwis e and remove the pits.
Spread the hoshigakihalves out on
a cutting board and slice into strips
1
/+ inch (6 mm) wide.
I07 SUNOMONO - VINEGARED

UDO AND WAKAME IN VINEGAR
Preparation time: 20 minutes Udo (page 442) is ajapanese In a small saucepan, combine the
Serves, 6 mountain vegetable with soft , brown rice vinegar , dashi, mirin,
furry skin and a pleasantly bitter usukuchish'!J'u, and salt and bring to
5 'I•oz (150 g) udo , peeled aftertaste. Substitute celery if udo a near simmer over medium heat.
• l tablespoon rice vinegar is not available . Stir in the katsuobushi,remove from
3 1/2 oz (100 g) fresh wakame, or the heat , and let the dressing cool.
3 heaping tablespoons dried wakame Slice the udo into % x l ½-inch
(soaked in cold water for 20 minutes) (1 x 4 cm) thick slices . Place in a Drain the udo, pat dry , and toss
· 6 tablespoons brown rice vinegar medium bowl, fill with cold water with the wakameand two - thirds
4 tablespoons Katsuobushi Dashi to cover, and add the l tablespoon of the dressing. Mound the myoga
(page 156) rice vinegar Cut the wakame next to the udo and wakame. Drizzle
2 tablespoons mirin crosswise into 1¼-inch (4 cm) the rest of the dressing on top
l teaspoon usukuchi shoyu pieces. If using fresh wakame, place and serve.
• l pinch of flaky sea salt in a wire-mesh sieve, and dip in
l small handful freshly shaved and out of boiling water. Refresh
katsuobushi or hanakatsuo under cool, running water and
2 myoga, finely sliced lengthwise shake off.
VINEGARED OCTOPUS
AND WAKAME
Preparation time: 15 minutes Octopus has a chewy yet creamy In either case, blot the wakame
Serves: 4, as a small bite texture that holds up well in vinegar dry in a tea towel. Stir the dashi,
treatments such as this one. vinegar, mirin, soy sauce , and salt
3 1/2 oz (roo g) boiled octopus together. Toss with the octopus and
• Boiling water Place the octopus in a wire- mesh wakame, and serve . This salad keeps
3½ oz (100 g) fresh wakame , or sieve and pour a steady stream of for 2-3 days, if stored chilled in
3 heaping tablespoons dried wakame boiling water over it for a count the refrigerator .
(soaked in cold water for 20 minutes) of 5. Pat dry and cut at a diagonal
l tablespoon Katsuobushi Dashi into slices ¼ inch (5 cm) wide . If @ p .rog
(page 156) using fresh wakame, cut crosswise
Q tablespoons rice vinegar into 11/+-inch (3 cm) pieces. Put
• I teaspoon mirin in a sieve and dip in and out of
½ teaspoon soy sauce boiling water. Refresh in cold ,
• ¼ teaspoon fine sea salt running water until cool to the
touch and drain well. (If using
reconstituted dried wakame, drain ,
and cut crosswise into 11/.+-inch
[3 cm] pieces if not already cut.)
ro8 SUNOMONO - VINEGARED

VINEGARED SARDINES
Preparation time: 15 minutes Sardines need to be eaten quickly 125 ml) along with the vinegar , soy
Cooking time, 5 minutes after catching and cleaning, so sauce, sake, and ginger. Cover with
Serves, 6 treating them with vinegar makes a lid or piece of parchment paper
sense because it is a natural on top of the fish and bring to
6 fresh sardines (18 ½ oz/ 5 2 5 g) preserving process . a simmer over high heat. Reduce
½ cup (4'/• fl oz/125 mi) rice vinegar the heat to low and cook until the
• 2 tablespoons soy sauce Cut the heads off the sardines and liquid is reduced and the fish has
• 4 tablespoons sake slice open the gut sac with a sharp cooked through, 5-7 minutes.
2 tablespoons slivered fresh ginger knife. Remove the guts by running Cool in the simmering liquid and
your finger down the stomach serve with vegetable side dishes.
cavity-and discard them. Rinse These sardines keep well in the
the fish under cold running water refrigerator for several days.
and place in a small saucepan. Add
water halfwa y up to the top of the
fish , about½ cup (4¼ fl oz/
VINEGARED CRAB AND

CUCUMBER WITH YUZU
Preparation time: 25 minutes This crab and cucumber treatment Meanwhile , in a bowl, whisk
Serves, 4 has less vinegar than Vinegared together the vinegar, mirin, and
Cucumber and Crab with Ginger soy sauce and toss with the crab .
7 oz (200 g) Japanese cucumbers , cut (below) , and is more of a salad. It Set aside to marinate while the
crosswise into thin rounds is a good accompaniment to pre- cucumbers are salting .
• ½ tea spoon flaky sea salt dinner drinks in the summer.
7 oz (200 g) fresh crabmeat, picked Squeeze the cucu mbers in large
over for shells and cartilage Place the cucumbers in a medium handfuls to remove excess liquid
2 tablespoons rice vinegar bowl and massage in the salt gently and drop into the bowl with the
• 2 tablespoons mirin and thoroughly , taking care not to crab . Toss, strew with theyuzu zest,
• I teaspoon soy sauce bruise. Let sit for 10 minutes. and serve.
Fine ly slivered zest of½ yuzu or
¼ Meyer lemon (QI p.llI
VINEGARED CUCUMBER
AND CRAB WITH GINGER
Preparation time: ~O minutes This refreshingly cooling dish is liquid , then drop into a medium
Serves, 6 lovely in the summer. Small boiled serving bowl. Toss with the crab
and chilled shrimp work as a nice and sweet vinegar dressing . Serve
7 oz (200 g) Japanese cucumbers , substitute for the crab. immediately . This salad holds up
sliced into fine rounds for a few days , but the cucumbers
I tablespoon finely slivered fresh ginger Toss the cucumbers with the will release liquid, so the dressing
· I tea spoonflaky sea salt ginger and massage in the salt. will become diluted.
½ cup (4 fl oz/125 ml) rice vinegar Leave to macerate for IO minutes.
• I tablespoon soy sauce Meanwhile, whisk togeth er the
• 2 tablespoons mirin vinegar, soy sauce, and mirin.
5 1/• oz (150 g) fresh crab meat, picked Squeeze the cucumbers and ginger
over for shells and cartilage gently but firm ly, to remove excess
HO SUNOMONO - VINEGARED
SWEET VINEGARED TURNIPS
Preparation time, 25 minutes, plus Leaving a part of the turnip with the salt and leave for
I hour for marinating stems attached makes for a pretty IO minutes to sweat out moisture .
Makes, 1½ lb (700 g) presentation. Lift out of the bowl , blot dry on
a clean tea towel, and drop into a
13/ • lb (800 g) baby turnips, with tops Cut the roots and tops off of the gallon - size resealable food storage
• I tablespoon flaky sea salt turnips, leaving 3/. inch (2 cm) of bag. Add the vinegar and mirin.
6 tablespoons rice vinegar the stem. Scrub the turnips with a Roll up the bag, squeezing all of
· b tablespoons mirin tawashi[vegetable brush] to remove the air out as you go, and seal.
dirt around the stem area and pat Place in the refrigerator for I hour
dry. Halve the turnips from root to absorb flavor before serving .
to stem. Set cut side down on a The turnips keep for 2-3 days,
cutting board and cut from root refrigerated.
to stem into slices 'I• inch (5 mm)
thick . Toss the turnip slices lightly
TRICOLORED VEGETABLES IN
SESAME-VINEGAR DRESSING
Pr eparation time: 30 minutes While still not mainstream , celery In a small, dry frying pan, toast
Cooking time, 5 minutes does appear inJapanese cooking the sesame seeds over medium
Serves , 6 and here contributes a bright green heat until fragrant, shaking the
accent against the white daikon and pan and lifting off the heat if
1 lb 2 oz (500 g) daikon , scrubbed orange carrots. It also adds a fresh needed to avoid scorching. Slide
• I medium carrot , scrubbed note to this root vegetable medley. into a suribachi[grinding bowl] or
2 medium stalks celery, cut into spice / nut grinder and grind until
r½-inch (4 cm) lengths Cut the daikon and carrot into completely broken down, but not
• Itablespoon flaky sea salt r½ inch (4 cm) long rectangular a paste. Add the vinegar and mirin
4 tablespoons white sesame seeds pieces . Cut those pieces into and scrape the dressing over the
3
4 tablespoons rice vinegar / • (2 cm) wide fine slabs [tan~aku- vegetables. Toss to incorporate and
• 2 tablespoons mirin giri ; see page 446].Lay the celery serve . (Alternatively, the vegetables
on a cutting board , back side up. can be tossed in the dressing and
Holding the knife at a 45-degree served as is , in the suribachi,if
angle to the cutting board , cut using.) The vegetables hold up well
crosswise into thin slices [sogigiri; for a couple of days if stored in the
see page 446]. refrigerator, though will lose spark
as the daikon releases liquid.
In a large mixing bowl, massage the
daikon, carrot, and celery lightly with @ p. n3
the salt . Let sit for IO minutes.
Gently squeeze the salted vegetables
and drop into a serving bowl.
II2 SUNOMONO - VINEGARED

ASPARAGUS WITH SESAME
VINEGAR DRESSING
Preparation time, 25 minutes A trio of sesame seeds brightens up In a small frying pan , heat the oil
Cooking time, IO minutes asparagus with its subtle flavor and over medium-low heat. Add the
Serves, 6 pretty combination of colors. sesame seeds when you can feel
some heat rising from the pan.
I lb 5 oz (600 g) asparagus Bring a large pot of water to a boil Cook, stirring until you can smell
I tablespoon canola (rapeseed) oil over high heat. Snap the bottoms the aroma of sesame, about
• 2 teaspoons gold sesame seeds off of the asparagus where they I minute. Scrape into a small bowl
• 2 teaspoons black sesame seeds naturally want to break. Blanch to cool.
• 2 teaspoons white sesame seeds until crisp-tender, 2-5 minutes
3 tablespoons brown rice vinegar depending on the thickness. Toss the asparagus pieces with the
• 3 tablespoons mirin Refresh under cold, running cooled sesame seeds, vinegar, mirin,
• I teaspoon soy sauce water. Pat dry in a clean tea towel. soy sauce, and salt. Serve at room
• I pinch of flaky sea salt Cut on the diagonal into ¾-inch temperature, or cold the next day
(2 cm) pieces. as a salad or vegetable side dish.
@ p.n5
CUCUMBER AND BEAN

SPROUTS IN SESAME-VINEGAR
Preparation time, 25 minutes Quick to put together, this dish In a small, dry frying pan , warm
Cooking time, 5 minutes benefits from using top-quality the sesame seeds over medium-
Serves, 4 sesame seeds and rice vinegar to high heat, shaking the pan , until
elevate it above the ordinary . you get a faint whiff of sesame,
9 1/2 oz (270 g) Japanese cucumbers 2-3 minutes. Slide into a suribachi
• I teaspoon flaky sea salt Roll the cucumber on a cutting [grinding bowl] or spice/nut
• 4 tablespoons rice vinegar, for boiling board to soften and cut into thin grinder and smash until completely
• 2 tablespoons fine sea salt flat strips ½ x r¼ inches (12 mm broken down to a powdery semi-
• 7 oz (200 g) moyashi [mung bean x 3 cm). Toss with ½ teaspoon paste-like consistency. Stir in the
sprouts] of the flaky salt and let sit for IO rice vinegar , mirin, soy sauce, and
• I usuage [deep - fried tofu pouch] , minutes. Blot off excess salt and remaining ½ teaspoon flaky salt ,
halved lengthwise place in a medium serving bowl. scraping down the sides to make
• 4 tablespoons white sesame seeds a smooth dressing .
• 2 tablespoons top-quality rice vinegar, Fill a medium pot three-quarters
for flavoring with water. Add the 4 tablespoons Toss the m'!Yashi,usuage, and
• 2 tablespoons mirin rice vinegar and fine salt and bring cucumbers with the dressing right
• ½ tablespoon soy sauce to a boil over high heat. Blanch the before serving since the cucumbers
bean sprouts for I minute. Scoop tend to release liquid .
out with a wire-mesh sieve and lay
out on a tea towel to cool and blot
dry . Place the usuagein a wire-mesh
sieve and dip in and out of the
same boiling water. Pat dry and
slice the usuagecrosswise into thin
strips. Add the bean sprouts and
usuageto the bowl of cucumbers.
n4 SUNOMONO - VINEGARED
KYURIMOMI
Preparation time, 20 minutes ]0,urimomi is made all over Japan In a small, dry frying pan, toast
Cooking time: 5 minutes and there are countless variations , the sesame seeds over medium heat
Serves: 6 depending on area and the until fragrant, shaking the pan
individual style of the cook. This and lifting off the heat if needed
14 oz (400 g) Japanese cucumbers version comes from Kansai , to avoid scorching. Slide into a
• I teaspoon flaky sea salt where usukuchish~u is commonly suribachi[grinding bowl] or spice/
3 tablespoons white sesame seeds used , and it does not contain miso, nut grinder and process until fully
• ½ cup rice vinegar making it more of a sesame-vinegar broken down .
• 2 tablespoons mirin treatment.
2 tablespoons usukuchi shoyu Smash the vinegar , mirin, and
2 large shiso leaves, cut into fine Slice the cucumbers into fine usukuchish~u into the ground
tendrils rounds. Massage in the salt and let sesame, and add the shisoand
sit for IO minutes. Squeeze gently cucumbers. Toss until the
to express liquid , but not bruise ingredients are well distributed and
excessively, and drop into serve as a bright summer salad .
a medium serving bowl.
TARO STEMS IN SESAME

VINEGAR DRESSING
Preparation time: 15 minutes Zi,iki[dried taro stems] are available into fine strips . Drain the shiitake,
Cooking time: IO minutes online . They are also used in pare off and discard the stems, and
Serves: 6 Korean cooking, so inquire about finely slice the caps. Pat dry and
availability at Asian groceries put in
6 large zuiki [dried taro stems] outside of Japan. a small bowl with ½ tablespoon
(1 oz/30 g) of the mirin and the remaining
Boiling water Wash and massage the zuiki in ½ tablespoon soy sauce.
I¼ cups (10 fl oz/300 ml) Katsuobushi cold water. Lay in the kitchen
Dashi (page 156) sink and pour a steady stream In a small, dry frying pan, toast
2 ½ tablespoons soy sauce of boiling water over them for the sesame seeds over medium heat
• 2 tablespoons mirin IO seconds. Let cool in the sink. until fragrant, shaking the pan
2 usuage [deep-fried tofu pouches] Once completely cool , rinse in and lifting off the heat if needed
• 2 dried shiitake, soaked in boiling water cold water, and cut crosswise into to avoid scorching. Slide the seeds
for 30 minutes I¼-inch (3 cm) pieces . into a suribachi[grinding bowl] or
3 tablespoons white sesame seeds spice/nut grinder and grind until
• 2 tablespoons rice vinegar In a medium sauc epan, bring the broken down and the oils are
dashi, 2 tablespoons of the soy sauce, released. Stir in the vinegar to make
and I tablespoon mirin to a simmer. a paste . Sweeten with the remaining
Slide in the zuiki pieces and simmer ½ tablespoon mirin .
until softened, but not falling
apart, about 15 minutes. Allow Drain the zuiki and toss with the
to cool in the simmering liquids. usuage,shiitake, and the sesame-
vinegar dressing. Serve .
Halve the usuagelengthwise, set in
a wire-mesh sieve , and pour a
steady stream of boiling water over
them for IO seconds. Stack on
a cutting board and cut crosswise
DAIKON WITH
SESAME-VINEGAR
Preparation time: 30 minutes This dish is a traditional preparation In a small, dry frying pan , toast
Cooking time : 5 minutes from Kanagawa prefecture . Daikon the sesame seeds over medium heat
Serves: 6 is one of the most important until fragrant, shaking the pan and
vegetables in Japanese cuisine grown lifting off the heat, if needed , to
I lb (450 g) daikon, scrubbed and by seemingly every farm. Grated , avoid scorching . Slide the seeds
julienned pickled, simmered, seared, dressed- in a suribachi[grinding bowl) or
3
/+ teaspoon flaky sea salt there are myriad preparations, spice/nut grinder and grind until
• 6 fresh anchovies and a dizzying number of heritage broken down and almost paste - like.
4 tablespoons gold sesame seeds varieties never make their way to the Mash the mirin and vinegar into the
• ½ tablespoon mirin mainstream market. ground sesame seeds, fold in the
I tablespoon rice vinegar squeezed daikon and anchovy fillets.
Scrape the daikoninto a medium Serve immediately .
bowl and massage in the salt. Let sit
for IO minutes . Squeeze by handfuls
and drop into a clean bowl.
Pinch off the heads and tear down

toward the belly of the anchovies
and pull out the guts , vertebrae,
and tail. Separate into fillets , rinse
under cold running water, and pat
dry in a clean tea towel.
BURDOCK IN SESAME-VINEGAR
Preparation time, IO minutes Dishes with gobo [burdock, which In a small, dry frying pan, warm
Cooking time, IO minutes is a hardy root vegetable] stand up both sesame seeds for I-2 minutes.
Serves: 6 well over the course of several days In a medium bowl, toss together
and this dish is no exception . The the still-hot burdock , salt, sesame
7 oz (200 g) burdock root , scrubbed kigiku [bitter chrysanthemum petals] seeds, brown rice vinegar , and
and cut into 2-inch (5 cm) lengths provide contrast to the earthy mirin.
½ tablespoon white sesame seeds burdock , and the yellow against the
• ½ tablespoon black sesame seeds brown is stunning. In a small pot, bring 2 cups
• I large pinch of flaky sea salt (16 fl oz/ 500 ml) water with the
2 tablespoons brown rice vinegar Set up a steamer and bring the rice vinegar to a simmer. Pull the
• I tablespo .on mirin water to a boil. petals off the flowers and place in
.Q tablespoons rice vinegar a small wire-mesh sieve . Dip in and
8 kigiku [edible chrysanthemum If the burdock is about the out of the simmering water, then
flowers] circumference of a pencil, leave plunge into a bowl of cold water to
whole . Otherwise, quarter or halve cool. Drain and blot dry in a clean
lengthwise. Arrange the burdock in tea towel. Sprinkle in with the gobo,
the steamer basket, cover , and steam toss , and serve.
until pliable , about 8 minutes.
II7 SUNOMONO - VINEGARED

CUCUMBER AND SHIITAKE
IN SESAME-VINEGAR
Preparation lime, 45 minutes Pairing earthy dried shiitakewith Heat a sma ll , dry frying pan over
Cooking time, 5 minutes crisp cucumber makes an unusu al medium-high heat and once hot ,
Serves, 6 and surprisingly delicious salad . add the white sesame seeds. Toast
the seeds until fragrant, shaking
9½ oz (270 g) Japanese cucumbers, Quarter the cucumbers lengthwi se the pan and lifting off the heat if
ends trimmed and cut crosswise on a diagonal needed to avoid scorching. Slide
I teaspoon flaky sea salt into ¼-inch (5 mm) thin slices. into a suribachi[grindin g bowl) or
2 dried shiitake, soaked in ½ cup Toss with 1/• teaspoon of the salt spice/nut grinder and smash until
(4 fl oz/r25 ml) boiling water for and let sit for IO minutes. Scoop partially broken down. Scrape into
30 minutes the cucumbers out of the salt and a small bowl. Repeat with the black
• I tablespoon soy sauce place in a wire-mesh sieve set over sesame seeds. Stir in the vinegar,
• 2 ½ tablespoons mirin a small bowl. remaining 2 tablespoons mirin, and
I tablespoon white sesame seeds 'I•teaspoon salt.
I tablespoon black sesame seeds Pluck the shiitakeout of the soaking
• 4 tablespoons rice vinegar liquid and drop into a small When ready to serve, drain the
saucepan with I tablespoon of shiitakeand toss in a bowl with the
the soaking liquid, the soy sauce, cucumber slices and the dressing.
and½ tablespoon of the mirin.
Bring to a simmer, then remove [Qj p.ng
from the heat. Remove the shiitake
stems, discard, and cut the caps
into 1/•-inch (5 mm) slices and let
cool in a bowl with any remaining
simmering juices.
DRIED DAIKON AND

DRIED SQUID IN VINEGAR
Preparation time: 40 minutes Since the main ingredients in this Place a medium bowl in the kitchen
Cooking time, 30 seconds dish are dried , it can be prepared sink and fill with hot water. Quickly
Serves, 6 year round , and last minute, as swish the kiriboshidaikonin the water,
long as you keep dried daikon and scoop out with a wire-mesh sieve ,
I oz (30 g) kiriboshi daikon [dried squid in your pantry. Filipino and drain. Cut the wakamecrosswise
daikon threads] grocery stores might be a good into I 1/•-inch (3 cm) pieces.
(r oz/30 g) surume ika so ur ce for the dried squid.
[whole dried squid] In a bowl, stir together the vinegar,
I tablespoon dried wakame, soaked Bring a pot of water to a rapid mirin, and soy sauce. Add the daikon,
in cold water for 20 minutes boil. Cut the dried squid into squid , carrot, and wakameand toss.
I medium carrot, halved lengthwise fine julienne strips with a sharp This dish holds up well for several
and cut into fine julienne butcher knife or strong pair of days, if refrigerated .
3 tablespoons rice vinegar kitchen shears and drop into a
· I½ tab lespoons mirin wire-mesh sieve. Dip in and out
· 2 teaspoons soy sauce of the boiling water and pat dry
in a clean tea towel.
•
n1mono
SIMMERED
NIMONO - SIMMERED
Nimono is another category of dishes , like sunomono

(page 104-109) , that often conjures up the image of a
Japanese grandmother's food . My mother - in - law often
had a saucepan full of simmered things on her stove at all
times . Country people love well simmered dishes, and for
my husband this is his soul food. The trick to making an
excellent dish of nimono is first simmering each component
separately in unadorned dashi, and then flavoring each dashi-
simmered ingredient individually at the last minute . That is
the best-case scenario. More often than not, the whole pot
somehow ends up together , to be reheated for the next meal.
The most orthodox and classic form of nimono consists
of dashi-simmered deep-fried tofu (usuage, atsuage, pages 428
and 442), kon19aku(page 433), and root vegetables such
as carrot and daikon, all flavored at the end with mirin and
soy sauce. In this chapter , however, you will find all types
of simmered dishes , from classic to modern. Many are
vegetable-centric, and can easily be adjusted to be vegan or
vegetarian - by omitting the meat or fish and by substituting
konbu dashi (page 156) for katsuobushidashi (page 156) and
Japanese chicken broth (page 160).
122 ~!Jo/] NIM ONO - SIMMERED

SIMMERED HIJIKI SEAWEED
Preparation time, 35 minutes Hijiki [a seaweed) has a bad rap in In a heavy medium pot, heat the
Cooking time , 15 minutes some countries, because of trace oil over medium heat. Add the
Serves, 6 inorganic arsenic contained in the pork and stir-fry until the meat
dried form (which incidentally is has whitened and curled up into
r% cups (r oz / 30 g) dried hijiki never consumed as such). Soaking small clumps , about 2 minutes.
2 tablespoons canola (rapeseed) oil the hijiki removes any food safety Add the drained hijiki and toss
• 3½ oz (roo g) pork shoulder , thinly worries and thejapanese have been over high heat until the hijiki
sliced and cut into thin strips I¼ inches eating it for centuries without is glossy from the oil, another
(3 cm) long issues. Hijiki contains a high amount I-2 minutes. Stir in the carrot,
• I small carrot (3½ oz / roo g), scrubbed of fiber and adds texture to salads dashi, soy sauce, mirin, and sake.
and julienned or croquette s such as ganmodoki Cook over medium - high heat ,
r¼ cups (ro fl oz/ 300 ml) Katsuobushi (page 234), stirring occasionally, until most
Dashi (page 156) of the liquid has evaporated, for
3 tablespoons soy sauce Place the hijiki in a wire- mesh sieve about 5 minutes. Serve hot or at
• r½ tablespoons mirin and rinse under cold running room temperature.
• r½ tablespoons sake water. Place the sieve of hijiki into a
large bowl of cold water and let soak
for IO minutes . Scoop out, dump
the water , refill to the top of the
bowl, and soak the hijiki for another
IO minutes. Drain and shake off
excess water.
SIMMERED DRIED
DAIKON THREADS
Preparation time, 40 minutes Kiriboshidaikon [dried daikon threads) In a heavy medium pot , heat the
Cooking time , 5 minutes are useful to have around the oil over medium-low heat. Add the
Serves, 6 kitchen as an instant starter for reconstituted kiriboshidaikon, usuage,
a dish on the fly . chile, konbu, and carrot and stir-
r'/• oz (50 g) kiriboshi daikon [dried fry over medium heat until glossy,
daikon threads) Soak the kiriboshidaikon in a large I-2 minutes. Stir in the dashi, soy
I (7-inch/I8 cm) square konbu bowl of water for IO minutes. sauce, sake, and mirin and cook ,
I usuage [deep-fried tofu pouch), Drain, fill the bowl again , and stirring, over medium-high heat
halved lengthwise soak for IO more minutes. Drain , until all the ingredients have
• Boiling water blot dry, and cut crosswise into softened and the simmering liquids
2 tablespoons ca_nola (rapeseed) oil r' /•-inch (3 cm) pieces. Soak the have evaporated, 2-3 minutes.
• I small dried red japones chile , sliced konbu in a shallow, flat pan with Serve hot or at room temperature .
into fine rings water to cover for IO minutes .
• I medium carrot , scrubbed and finely Drain and snip , following the
julienned lengthwise grain , into thin r¼-
% cup (5 fl oz/I50 ml) Katsuobushi inch (3 cm) long threads . Lay the
Dashi (page 156) usuagein a wire-mesh sieve and
2 tablespoons soy sauce pour a steady stream of boiling
• 2 tablespoons sake water over it for IO seconds.
• I tablespoon mirin Slice crosswise into strips 'I• inch
(6 mm) wide.
123 NIM ONO - SIMMERED

SIMMERED SHIITAKE
AND SWEET POTATO
Preparation time, 45 minutes This dish has an interesting and Reserving the soaking liquid , drain
Cooking time, IO minutes delicious combination of flavors. the shiitake,pare off the stems and
Serves, 6 Sweet potatoes are a good foil for discard. Slice the caps into ¼-inch
earthy shiitake,while the chicken (6 mm) pieces. In a medium pot ,
6 donko [thick-capped dried shiitake] stock gives the dish depth and the comb ine the chicken stock and the
• Boiling water pickled chatsai [mustard stem] soaking liquid. Slide in the shiitake,
5 1/• oz (150 g) head bok choy , pulled lend pop . bok choy stems, and sweet potatoes
in half lengthwise with the salt and chatsai. Bring to
• I lb 5 oz (600 g) sweet potatoes, well Soak the shiitakein I cup a lively simmer over medium -
scrubbed but not peeled (8 fl oz/250 mi) boiling water for high heat and cook until the sweet
Generous 2 cups (17 fl oz/500 mi) 30 minutes. potatoes have softened, about
chicken stock 7 minutes. Stir in the bok choy
• I teaspoon salt Meanwhile, slice the torn bok choy leaves cook until they are wilted ,
I tablespoon finely slivered cha tsai in half crosswise where the leaves 1-2 more minutes . Spoon into
[ Chinese pickled mustard meet the stems. Cut the sweet a pretty serving bowl and garnish
stem] (page 429) potato into ¾-inch (2 cm) pieces . with chopped parsley.
2 tablespoons chopped Italian or
curly parsley [Qj p.125
SIMMERED DAIKON WITH MISO
Preparation time: 20 minutes This homey dish is stunningly In a small bowl , slowly whisk the
Cooking time, 30 minutes lovely, and can be served alone to sake, mirin, and dashiinto the egg
Serves, 6 accompany drinks before dinner yolk. Transfer to a small stainless
or as a vegetable side dish . steel bowl set over a saucepan of
14 oz (400 g) daikon, peeled (see Note) simmering water and stir in the
I (6-inch1I5 cm) piece konbu Starting from the top , cut the daikon ginger and miso. Cook, stirring ,
½ teaspoon fine sea salt crosswise into 6 rounds. Bevel the until thickened and fragrant,
· 3 tablespoons sake cut edges with a sharp paring knife. I-2 minutes.
• ;! tablespoonsmirin
• 6 tablespoons Katsuobushi Dashi Lay the konbuacross the bottom of a Cool until just barely warm and
(page 156) heavy medium pot. Put the daikonin spoon the sauce over the top of each
• I egg yolk the pot, add cold water to cover by daikonpiece, smoothing it across the
2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger about 3/• inch (2 cm), and sprinkle surface in a circular motion with the
• 6 tablespoons brown rice miso with the salt. Set an otoshibuta[dr op back of your spoon. Garnish with
6 tablespoons white miso or inaka miso lid] or pan lid directly on top of a small sprig of sansholeaf, but cut
• 6 sprigs sansho leaves the water surface (to keep the daikon out the hard stems.
submerged) and bring to a boil over
high heat. Adjust to a simmer and Nate, Save the peels to make
cook until the daikonhas softened in Daikon Peel Kinpira (page 32).
the center but is not mushy, about
20 minutes.
124 NIMONO - SIMMERED

DASHI-SIMMERED TARO ROOT
Preparation time: IO minutes Taro root is silky and satisfying , heat. Adjust to a brisk simmer
Cooking time , 20 minutes and is one of those quintessential and cook until the taro is cooked
Serves : 6 Japanese vegetables with a naturally through and soft in the middle,
slippery texture , which lends well about 5 more minutes. Remove
I lb 2oz (500 g) medium taro roots, to simmered treatments. the drop lid or paper, swirl in
peeled the soy sauce , and once the liquid
2½ cups (20 fl oz/600 ml) Place the peeled ta ro in a medium returns to a simmer, remove from
K.atsuobushi Dashi (page 156) pot, fill with water to cover by the heat. Serve hot or at room
• 2 tablespoons mirin r½ inches (4 cm), and bring to temperature. Sprinkle with shichimi
• ¼ teaspoon flaky sea salt a boil over high heat. Cook for togarashi, if using .
• 2 tablespoon s soy sauce about 5 minutes over medium
Shichimi togarashi [seven-spice heat (the taro tends to bubble up [Qj p.127
powder]. optional so stay close), un t il half cooked.
Drain, return to the pot, and
add the dashi, mirin, and sal t. Set
an otoshibuta[drop lid) or piece of
parchment paper on top and bring
to a simmer over medium-high
DASHI-STEAMED EGGS
WITH SPINACH
Preparation time: 20 minut es This is a pretty, deconstructed egg Slide a knife around th e outside of
Cooking time, 20 minutes custard that makes an excellent the custard and unmold carefully.
Serves, 6-8 starter to a meal. Cut into 6 or 8 sq uares and
remove from the foil-lined pan
6 eggs, at room temperature Set up a steamer and bring the bottom with a thin metal spatula
5 cups (40 fl oz/I. 2 liters) Katsuobushi water to a boil. into shallow soup bowls. Drape
Dashi (page 156) the spinach leaves attractively
1
• /• teaspoon salt In a bowl, whisk together the eggs, around the custard and ladle in the
3 tablespoons usukuchi shoyu scant 2 cups (15 fl oz/ 450 ml) of simmering dashi. Garnish with a few
· 2 teaspoons mirin the dashi, the salt, and I teaspoon slivers ofy"-<:uzest and serve hot.
I (7-oz/200 g) bunch spinach, leave s each of the usukuchish'!J'
u and mirin.
only, cut crosswise into 3/•-inch Pour into a foil-lined 8-inch (20
(2 cm) length s cm) square pan with a removable
I teaspoon finely slivered yuzu bottom. Cover with foil, place
or Meyer lemon zest in the steamer insert, and steam,
covered , for 20 minutes.
In a pot, combine the remaining

3 cups (24 fl oz/710 ml) dashi,
2 teaspoons usukuchish'!J'u,and
I teaspoon of mirin and bring to
a simmer over medium heat .
Drop in the spinach leaves and
cook for I minute. Scoop them
out and set to drain in a sieve set
over ii small bowl. Do not discard
the simmering dashi.
NIMONO - SIMMERED
FRAGRANT MISO-
SIMMERED DAIKON
Preparation time: IO minutes Julienned daikonappears often in (8 fl oz/ 250 ml) cold water. Bring
Cooking time, 5 minutes country-style miso soups . Here the to a simmer over medium heat
Serves, 6 pieces are cut thick and simmered and drop in the daikonb ; tonnets .
with seasonings rather than in the Simmer until the center of the
I lb (450 g) daikon, peeled more usual dashi-based soup. The daikonis just cooked, about
• 3 tablespoons soybean miso sanshocan be substituted by a spoonful I minute . Drain and serve hot or at
l large pinch ground sansho pepper of ground black sesame seeds. room temperature in rustic ceramic
• l tablespoon mirin bowls napped with a little of the
· 2 tablespoons sake C ut the daikon into batonnets simmering liquid .
'/•-inch (6 mm) thick and
2½ - inches (6 cm) long. Im p.129
In a large frying pan , combine

the miso and sanshopepper. Slowly
whisk in the mirin, sake, and l cup
SHIRATAKI BUNDLES
Preparation time, 45 minutes These little bundles are time- Dividing evenly , stuff the halved
Cooking time, 20 minutes consuming to prepare, but usuage with shirataki,chicken , and
Makes, 8 bundles make for a pretty presentation shiitake. Close the flap to create a
as a first course. package and tie securely with a half
2 strands kanpyo [dried gourd) strand of kanpyo. Nestle the bundles
• 5 oz (150 g) shirataki noodles, cut Drop the kanpyointo a small bowl into a small saucepan. Add the
crosswise into 1½-inch (4 cm) lengths and fill with cold water. Let soak dashi, soy sauce, and mirin. Cover
· Boiling water for 20 minutes to reconstitute. and simmer gently for 20 minutes.
• 4 usuage [deep-fried tofu pouches), Place the shiratakiin a wire-mesh Serve hot or at room temperature.
halved crosswise sieve and pour a steady stream of
• 7 oz (200 g) ground (minced) chicken boiling water over the noodles for
2 medium shiitake , stems discarded, IO seconds . Shake off the excess
caps thinly sliced water and slide the noodles into
2½ cups (20' /• fl oz/600 ml) a medium bowl.
Katsuobushi Dashi (page 156)
2 tablespoons soy sauce Put the usuagein a wire - mesh sieve
• I tablespoon mirin and pour a steady stream of boiling
water over it for IO seconds . When
coo l , set the usuageon your work
space and roll over it with a heavy
rolling pin to help it separate more
easily . Pry the pouches open with
your fingers, without tearing the
sides, to make an envelope for
stuffing. Drain the kanpya.

KENCHIN TOFU-STUFFED
NAPA CABBAGE
Preparation time, 45 minutes Kenchinrefers to dishes that have Scrape the tofu into a medium
Cooking time, 20 minutes their roots in shojinryori [Buddhist bowl and sift in the potato starch .
Serves, 6 temple food]. Konbu Dashi Beat well with a wooden spoon to
(page 156) or Katsuobushi Dashi incorporate. Fold in the wood ear
I (ro½ oz/300 g) momendofu (page 156) can be substituted for mushrooms, carrot, gobo, and pine
or Japanese-style soft block tofu the chicken stock . These rolls are nuts. Drain the hijikiand add. Stir
6 large or I2 small napa cabbage also good cold the following day for until all the ingredients are well
( Chinese leaO leaves a quick lunch on the fly. distributed.
I teaspoon flaky sea salt
Iheaping tablespoon dried wood ear Set the tofu on a cutting board and Lay the cabbage leaves out on a
mushrooms, soaked in cold water for prop a small plate underneath it large baking sheet. Dividing evenly ,
20 minutes to angle the board into the kitchen spoon the tofu mixture onto the
• Ismall carrot, scrubbed sink (to catch drips). Lay another base of each leaf, about ½ inch
I¾ oz (50 g) gobo [burdock]. scrubbed cutting board on top of the tofu to (12 mm) up from the stem end.
• 2 tablespoons pine nuts, warmed in press out moisture for 20 minutes. Roll each leaf up one rotation,
a dry frying pan over low heat until fold in the sides of the leaves , and
the oils come out Bring a large pot of water to a boil. continue rolling all the way up.
• I tablespoon potato starch Hold the stem ends of the napa
(1 3/+ oz/50 g) dried hijiki, soaked cabbage ( Chinese leaO leaves in In a medium pot, combine the
in cold water for 20 minutes the boiling water for a count of IO, chicken broth, sake, usukuchish'!)'u,
l quart (32 fl oz/r liter) Japanese then submerge the leaves in the and the remaining scant
Chicken Broth (page r6o) boiling water and cook until the ½ teaspoon of salt. Nestle the
• 4 tablespoons sake stem ends have softened, about cabbage rolls into the bottom of
I tablespoon usukuchi shoyu 2 minutes . the pot and cook, covered , at a
Shichimi togarashi [seven-spice lively simmer until the rolls have
powder]. optional Drain, pat dry, and sprinkle with set , about 15 minutes. Serve hot
½ teaspoon of the salt. or at room temperature, with
a sprinkling of shichimitogarashi
,
Drain the wood ear mushrooms if using.
and finely slice. Cut the carrot and
burdock into medium dice.
NIMONO - SIMMERED
NAPA CABBAGE ROLLS
SIMMERED IN TOMATO
Preparation time, 25 minutes Nogaimo [mountain yam] is an Stir the dashi, salt, and pepper
Cooking time, 45 minutes unexpected ingredient in these into the r% cups (400 ml) of
Serves, 6 unusual cabbage rolls . tomato sauce.
For the tomato sauce, Make the tomato sauce: In a large Lay the cabbage leaves out on a
l tablespoon extra virgin olive oil frying pan set over high h ea t , couple of baking sheets. Dividing
(28 oz/794 g) can whole organic
• l add the oil and tomatoes. Cook, evenly, spoon a dollop of shrimp-
Roma tomatoes packed i n tomato juice, stirring, for 5 minutes . Decrease nagaimo mixture onto each leaf
finely chopped the heat to medium-low and about ½ inch (12 mm) from the
¼ teaspoon flaky sea salt cook for 5 minutes more, stirring base of the stem end. Roll up one
occasionally. Measure out the rotation, fold in the side leav es,
For the cabbage ro lls, 1% cups (400 ml) of the sauce and and continue rolling up to form
l lb 2 oz (500 g) large black tiger reserve the rest for another use. a neat package. Place the rolls in a
shrimp (prawns) la rge frying pan , add 1% cups (13 ½
7 oz (200 g) naga imo [mountain yam]. Make the cabbage rolls: Rinse fl oz/ 400 ml) of the tomato sauce,
peeled and cut into rounds % inch the shrimp (prawns) under cold, and place an otoshibuta[drop lid] or
(1 cm) thick running water, make a shallow saucepan lid on top of the rolls.
6 large or 12 small leaves napa cabbage cut in the back of the shells, and
( Chinese leaf) remove the veins with a small Set the pan over medium-high
bamboo skewer. heat, bring to a slow boil, lower
1¼ cups (ro fl oz/300 ml) Katsuobushi the heat , and simmer , covered, for
Dashi (page 156 ) Set up a steamer and bring the 20 minutes. Spoon onto a platter
I½ teaspoons flaky sea salt water to a boil . Arrange the shrimp and sprinkle with the parsley
1
/+ teaspoon
freshly ground black and nagaimo in the steamer ba sket, before serving.
pepper cover, and steam for IO minutes.
I small handful fresh Italian or curly Mash the steamed shrimp and naga
parsley, chopped imo in a suribachi [grinding bowl] to
form a paste (or pulse in a food
processor). Keep the steamer going
(replenish with water if necessary).
Separate the cabbage leaves one by

one and tenderize the hard stem
areas by pounding with a rolling
pin. Ad d to the steamer basket and
cook until soft and pliable, about
5 minutes.
131 NI MONO - SIMMERED

TOFU-STUFFED
CABBAGE ROLLS
Preparation time: 40 minutes Cabbage rolls are universally loved Squeeze the tofu to remove excess
Cooking time , 25 minutes worldwide, and Japan is no excep - liquid and drop into a suribachi
Serves , 6 tion. The variations are myriad [grinding bowl] or medium bowl.
but due to the predominance of Grind with a surigoki[wooden pestle]
l (ro½ oz/300 g) momendofu or Japanese seasonings, this one is or whip with a wooden spoon until
Japanese-style soft block tofu particularly Japanese in flavoring creamy. Fold in the carrot , usuage,
12 small or 6 large green cabbage leaves and style . shiitake,negi, beaten egg , sake, and salt
• l small carrot , scrubbed until well incorporated.
l usuage [deep-fried tofu pouch], Set the tofu on a cutting board and
halved lengthwise prop a small saucer underneath to Lay the cabbage leaves out on
• 4 sh ii take , stems discarded and caps angle the board into the kitchen two baking sheets and spoon the
finely chopped sink (to catch drips). Lay another tofu filling into the curled section
2 tablespoons finely chopped thin negi cutting board on top of the tofu to of the leaf about ¾ inch (2 cm)
or fat scallion (spring onion) press out moisture for 20 minutes. in from the stem end. Smooth
egg, at room temperature ,
l out the filling to make a fat
lightly beaten Bring a medium pot of water to sausage-like shape. Roll one
l tablespoon sake a boil. Stack the cabbage leaves rotation up , fold the sides of the
¾ teaspoon flaky sea salt together and hold the stem ends leaf in toward the center , and
• 2½ cups (20 fl oz/600 mi) in the boiling water for l minute , continue rolling up until you have
Katsuobushi Dashi (page 156) then submerge the leave s in the formed a tight packet.
· l tablespoon soy sauce boiling water and cook for 30 more
• I teaspoon mirin seconds. Scoop out with a wire- Nestle these packets into a medium
¼ teaspoon freshly ground mesh sieve and let drain in the sink . pot and pour in the dashi, soy
black pepper Drop the carrot into the boiling sauce, and mirin. Place an otoshibuta
l tablespoon chopped parsley water and cook for 3 minutes, or [drop lid] or piece of parchment
until half done, and drain. Set the paper on top of the cabbage rolls
usuagehalves in a wire-mesh sieve and bring the pot almost to a boil
and dip them into the boiling over high heat. Adjust the heat to
water for IO seconds. Drain in the medium, cover, and simmer for
sink and blot dry with a clean tea 20 minutes. Let the rolls rest for
towel. Cut the carrot and usuageinto 5 minutes before serving with the
1
/+-inch (6 mm) dice. simmering liquid. Serve whole
or slice and serve, sprinkled with
the black pepper and parsley, in
individual small saucers.

DASHI-SIMMERED
CABBAGE ROLLS
Preparation time: 15 minutes There are several variations of In a heavy medium pot , combine
Cooking time, 20 minutes cabbage rolls in this book. Here, the dashi, sake, soy sauce, and
Serves, 6 the meat is rolled up with the remaining ½ teaspoon salt and ½
cabbage for a spiral effect when cut. tablespoon mirin and bring to a boil.
6 large green cabbage leave s Western cabbage is called for , but Remove the pot from the heat and
31.lb (350 g) finely ground (minced) napa cabbage ( Chinese leaf) can nestle the rolls in the bottom of the
pork just as easily be substituted . pot. They should fit snugly, but you
½ medium negi or 2 fat scallions will still need to place an otoshibuta
(spring onions) , finely chopped Lay the cabbage leaves on a cutting [drop lid] or pan lid directly on
• I 1/2teaspoons flaky sea salt board and rap the thick stem ends top of the rolls to keep them from
• 1½ tablespoons mirin of each one with a wooden mallet jumping around and unraveling.
2 small eggs , at room temperature or surikogi [grinding pestle] to Simmer over medium - low heat
• 2 ½ cups (20 fl oz/ 600 ml) break down the fibers a little. Fill for 15 minutes. Drop the carrot
Katsuobushi Dashi (page 156) a medium pot with water and bring and green beans into the pot of
• 2 tablespoons sake to a boil. Hold the stem ends in simmering cabbage rolls and cook
• 2 table spoons soy sauce the boiling water for 30 seconds , until the carrots and green beans
• I medium carrot , scrubbed and cut then submerge the leaves in the have softened , 3-5 minutes.
crosswise into ¼ - inch (6 mm) rounds boiling water and cook for 30
• 12 green beans , topped and cut seconds more. Scoop out with Remove the rolls with a slotted
crosswise into 1½-inch (4 cm) pieces a wire - mesh sieve and run cold spoon to a carving board (with
Ichimi togarashi [powdered Japanese water over to refresh. grooves to catch the juices). Scoop
red chile] , optional the green beans and carrot into a
In a medium bowl , mix together small bowl. Cut the rolls in half or
the pork , negi, I teaspoon of the quarters crosswise and arrange in
salt , I tablespoon of the mirin, and a shallow soup bowl or salad plate
the egg until all of the ingredients per person. Strew with the carrot
are well incorporated. The meat and green beans. Reheat the broth
mixture will be fairly loose. over high heat, and ladle over a
scoop of broth. Sprinkle with ichimi
Arrange the cooled cabbage leaves togarashi,if using. Do not cut until
side by side on two baking sheets . serving. Serve hot with chopsticks
Dividing evenly , top the leaves with and a soup spoon . (The roll s can
the meat filling about 3/+ inch be made ahead and reheated the
(2 cm) up from the stem end. following day for a warm lunch or
Spoon the meat into base of the casual supper .)
leaf, leaving at least 4 inches
(10 cm) free at the tip of the leaves.
Roll the stem up one rotation, fold
in the sides of the leaves , and keep
rolling to make a tight package.

CREAMY NAPA CABBAGE
Preparation time: 20 minutes The cabbage combines well with the In a small saucepan , melt the butter
Cooking time: 20 minutes other crucifers here for a warming over medium heat. Sprinkle in
Serves : 6 dish served over rice. the flour and scrape and stir the
row, for 2 minutes . Ladle in a
5 1/+ oz (150 g) cauliflower , separated In a pot of well-salted boiling scoop of the liquid from the pot of
into small florets water, blanch the cauliflower and vegetables and whisk until smooth.
3 1/ 2 oz (100 g) broccoli, separated into broccoli for 2 minutes. Drain. Whisk in 4 or 5 more scoops of
small florets Cut the napa cabbage (Chinese liquid, then incorporate the sauce
14 oz (400 g) napa cabbage (Chinese leaf) crosswise into 1½-inch (4 cm) slowly back into the simmering pot
leaf), halved lengthwise pieces . Slice the carrot quarters of vegetables. If you are feeling
l medium carrot, scrubbed and crosswise into 1/+-inch (6 mm) harried with the two bubbling pots ,
quartered lengthwise quarter-moons (itchogiri;see turn off the pot of vegetables while
large onion, peeled and halved
l page 446). Slice the onion into you get the cream sauce made .
lengthwise fine half - rounds. Simmer the vegetables for IO more
l tablespoon canola (rapeseed) oil minutes .
• 3 ½ oz (100 g) unsmoked bacon, cut In a heavy medium pot, heat the
crosswise into 1½-inch (4 cm) pieces oil over medium heat. Add the Mound a generous portion of rice
• I cup (8 fl oz/250 ml) whole milk bacon and cook , stirring, until the on a dinner plate and spoon the
• l cup (8 fl oz / 250 ml) chicken stock fat has started to render and there creamy vegetables over the rice .
• l teaspoon flaky sea salt is some browning and crisping, Serve hot. (If using as a leftover the
3 1/2 tablespoons (50 g) unsalted butter 2-3 minutes. Slide in the carrot following day, reheat.) Sprinkle
• 5 tablespoons (50 g) all-purpose and onion and continue to stir- with ichimitogarashiif spice sounds
(plain) flour fry for a few more minutes until appealing.
· Japanese Rice (page 291), for serving they have softened. Stir in the
lchimi togarashi [powdered Japanese milk , chicken stock, I cup (8 fl
red chile] , optional oz/ 250 ml) water, the cauliflower,
broccoli, napa cabbage, and salt
and bring to a gentle simmer .
NIMONO - SIMMERED
SILKY WINTER MELON
Preparation time: 15 minutes Winter melon, also known as "white heatproof rubber spatula (so as
Cooking time, 20 minutes gourd" or "winter gourd" is a vine not to break up the chunks) , until
Serves, 6 with large fruit that is eaten as a slightly softened around the edges ,
vegetable. Simmered winter melon about 3 minutes. Add the dashi
2 tablespoons usukuchi shoyu is both succulent and satisfying. and simmer gently for 8 minutes,
2% oz (75 g) fresh crabmeat, picked The crab and asatsukiUapanese stirring occasionally. Swirl in
over for shells and cartilage shallots] add an additional bright the mirin and salt and simmer for
2 lb (900 g) winter melon, peeled note to finish this appealing dish. 3 minutes. Stir in the flavored
• 2 tablespoons canola (rapeseed) oil crabmeat and simmer for I more
r¼ cups (ro fl oz/300 ml) Katsuobushi Stir the usukuchish'!Yuinto the crab minute. Stir the potato starch
Dashi (page 156) and refrigerate until ready to use. mixture into the pot of simmering
2 tablespoons mirin winter melon. Stirring gently,
I large pinch of flaky sea salt Halve the winter melon crosswise simmer for 3 more minutes to
I tablespoon potato starch dissolved in and remove the seeds with a soup develop a creamy consistency. Serve
2 tablespoons water spoon. Cut the melon into in a medium-size ceramic bowl,
2 asatsuki Uapanese shallots] or scallion r¼-inch (3 cm) chunks. In a heavy sprinkled with the chopped asatsuki.
(spring onion) bottoms, diced medium pot, heat the oil over
medium-low heat. Add the winter
melon and cook, stirring with a
CREAMY SOY MILK SNAPPER
Preparation time: 15 minutes Soy milk, when made with care, Drop in the snapper, napa
Cooking time, 15 minutes is fragrant and makes the perfect cabbage (Chinese leaf), and
Serves, 6 base for light sauces. The vegetable shiitake. Stir once to submerge all
juices marry well with the chicken of the ingredients in the sauce and
12 '/+ oz (350 g) spinach stock to flavor the slightly nutty simmer until the napa cabbage has
8 medium shiitake, stems discarded soy milk. wilted and the fish and shiitakehave
· 2 tablespoons canola (rapeseed) oil cooked through, 3 minutes. Stir in
2 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose In a large pot of boiling water, the spinach and black pepper, and
(plain) flour blanch the spinach for 30 seconds . cook I more minute .
Generous 2 cups (17 fl oz/500 ml) Drain and refresh under cold
soy milk running water. Squeeze and cut Spoon into small soup bowls
½ cup (4 fl oz/125 ml) Japanese crosswise into 11/+-inch (3 cm) and serve alongside individual
Chicken Broth (page 160) lengths. Halve the shiitakecaps bowls of cooked Japanese rice.
• % teaspoon flaky sea salt and cut each half at a diagonal into (Alternatively, serve on a dinner
IO oz (300 g) red snapper fillets, cut %-inch (1 cm) thick pieces. plate, ladled over a mound of
crosswise into r½-inch (4 cm) pieces Japanese rice .)
· 6 1/+ oz (175 g) napa cabbage In a heavy medium pot , heat the oil
( Chinese leaf), cut crosswise into over medium-high heat. Stir in the
11/+-inch (3 cm) pieces flour , scraping across the bottom
· Freshly ground black pepper of the pot , and cook the roux for
· Japanese Rice (page 291), for serving 2 minutes . Gradually whisk in
the soy milk and stock to form a
smooth, thinner-than-bechamel
sauce. Season with the salt.
1 37 NIM ONO - SIMMERED

SIMMERED BURDOCK
WITH WALNUTS
Preparation time: IO minutes This dish originated in the gobo has softened and the liquid has
Cooking time : 15 minutes northeast of Japan where walnut reduced , about IO minutes. Stir
Serves: 6 trees abound. in the soy sauce, sake, and mirinand
simmer until the cooking liquid has
9 oz (250 g) gobo [burdock], scrubbed Cut the gobo into manageable blackened from the walnuts,
• I tablespoon small pieces konbu pieces for slicing, about 6 inches 5-7 more minutes. Serve hot or
3 1/2 oz (roo g) walnuts, coarsely (16 cm) long . Quarter the pieces at room temperature .
chopped lengthwise , then cut crosswise into
4 tablespoons soy sauce r½-inch (4 cm) pieces. Put thegobo
• 4 tablespoons sake in a medium pot with the konbu and
• 2 tablespoons mirin walnuts . Add water to almost cover
and bring to a lively simmer over
medium-high heat. Cook until the
ITALIAN - STYLE SOYBEANS
Preparation time: 20 minutes, plus An Italian food boom followed the stirring, for 5 more minutes. Stir
24 hours soaking time French one inJapan and remains in the drained soybeans , tomato
Cooking time, I hour 15 minutes big to this day. This method uses puree, ketchup , chicken stock, salt,
Serves: 6 a ground meat combination called and bay leaf. Bring to a simmer
aibiki-typically about 60 percent and cook, gently bubbling, for
½ cup (3 ½ oz/roo g) dried soybeans beef and 40 percent pork-used about 15 minutes. Stir occasionally
I tablespoon cano la (rapeseed) oil in m any preparations, including to check for sticking. Remove the
• I medium onion , diced hamburgers . bay leaf, sprinkle in the ichimi or
3 1/2 oz (roo g) finely ground shichimitogarashi, and scrape into
(minced) beef Soak the soybeans overnight in a 7 x IO-inch (18 x 25 cm) oval
r¾ oz (50 g) finely ground plenty of cold water. Drain and gratin pan . Sprinkle with the
(minced) pork place in a small pot with plenty Parmigiano-Reggiano and bake
I medium carrot (4½ oz/r25 g), of water . Bring to a simmer and until the cheese has melted, about
scrubbed and diced cook until tender, but not falling 15 minutes . Serve sprinkled with
½ cup (4 fl oz/125 ml) tomato puree apart, about 30 minutes. Drain the parsley.
(passata) and set aside.
2 tablespoons ketchup
I cup (8 fl oz/250 ml) chicken stock Preheat the oven to 400°F (205°C/
• Iteaspoon flaky sea salt Gas Mark 7).
• I bay leaf
• l teaspoon ichimi togarashi [powdered In a heavy medium pot, heat the oil
Japanese red chile] or shichimi togarashi over medium heat. Add the onion
[seven-spice powder] and cook until translucent, about
¼ cup (¾ oz/20 g) freshly grated l minute. Drop in the beef and
Parmigiano- Reggiano cheese pork and continue cooking and
I handful fresh parsley , chopped breaking up lumps until the meat
is no longer pink, about I minute .
Slide in the carrot and cook,
NlMONO - SIMMERED
SWEET SOY-SIMMERED
FLOUNDER
Preparation time: 5 minutes This is a quintessentialJapanese heat. Carefully slip the fillets
Cooking time: IO minutes preparation that belongs in into the frying pan, skin side up,
Serves: 4 everyone 's repertoire and needs no making sure they are not touching .
recipe once you get the feel for the Once the pan liquids return to a
2 large cross-sectional pieces flounder cooking and flavoring processes. simmer, spoon some of the juices
fillet with bones (12 oz/350 g) over the fish . Place an otoshibuta
• Boiling water Score the skin side of each piece of [drop lid] or piece of parchment
3 tablespoons soy sauce flounder with 2 shallow cuts in the paper on top of the fish and
• 6 tablespoons sake shape of a cross . Place the fillets simmer over medium heat until
· 2 tablespoons mirin on a rack set over a roasting pan the simmering liquid has reduced
I handful daikon sprouts, cut off their and pour a steady stream of boiling by two-thirds , about 3 minutes .
sponge base water over them from 12 inches Lift the otoshibutaoff 2 -3 times
(30 cm) above for 10 seconds. to spoon the juices over the fish .
Serve on a platter with the daikon
In a medium frying pan, combine sprouts mounded alongside .
the soy sauce, sake, and mirin and This is best hot, but is also good
bring to a simmer over medium at room temperature .
SIMMERED HERRING
WITH DRIED DAIKON
Preparation time: 40 minutes Shimi daikon, which resembles Meanwhile , drain the shimidaikon
Cooking time: 15 minutes a loofah sponge and has an and gently squeeze out excess
Serves: 6 irresistible ability to soak up moisture. Cut into 11/+-inch
simmering juices, might be hard to (3 cm) lengths. In a small bowl,
3 small fresh headless, gutted herring, find outside of Japan. stir together the miso, sake, and mirin
(14 oz/ 400 g) to make a smooth paste.
¾-inch (2 cm) piece fresh ginger , Soak the herring in water (ideally
peeled and thinly sliced crosswise the cloudy water that is a by-product Add the miso paste and reconsti-
6 pieces freeze-dried daikon (shimi of rice washing) for 20 minutes. tuted shimidaikon to the herring
daikon), soaked in lukewarm water for Remove the herring from the liquid and stir any miso lumps into the
20 minutes and scrub the skin all over with simmering liquid with saibashi
4 tablespoons inaka miso a tawashi[natural fiber brush] to [cooking chopsticks]. Return to
· 2 tablespoons sake remove the scales. Cut the herring a slow simmer and cook until the
• 2 tablespoons mirin crosswise, through the bones, into earthy fragrance of miso and mirin
1¼-1¾-inch (3-4 cm) pieces. lifts from the pot, another 3-5
minutes. Spoon into small bowls
In a heavy medium pot, bring and serve.
½ cup (4 fl oz/125 ml) water to a
simmer. Lay the pieces of herring,
side by side, across the bottom of
the pot and strew with the ginger.
Simmer slowly, gently turning
occasionally , until the herring
and ginger have softened, 5-8
minutes. If the simmering liquids
are evaporating too quickly, add
another I or 2 tablespoons of water.

SIMMERED CHICKEN
AND VEGETABLES
Preparation time , 30 minu tes There is no end to the local In a h eavy medium-large pot, h eat
Cooking time: 20 minutes simmered foods of Ja pan. This one the oil over medium h eat. Add the
Serves, 6 comes from th e northern area, and ingredients one at a time, starting
is both hearty and rich to satisfy in with the hardest and ending with
4 tablespoons rice vinegar the cold months. the softest, carrot , burdock , lot u s
• 3 1/2 oz (100 g) lotu s root root, taro root, kon'D'aku,
chick en,
6 sma ll taro roots (5¼ oz/150 g) , Bring a medium pot of water to and shiitake. Once the oil ha s evenly
peeled a boil with 2 tab lespoons of the coated the ingredients , in 3-4
24 thin or 12 medium green beans , vinegar . Peel t he lo tus root , halve minutes , add the dashi, mirin, soy
topped lengthwise, and cut crosswise sauce , and sake. Place an otoshibuta
I block (8 3/+ oz/ 250 g) konnyaku, cut into 1/ +-inc h (5 cm) half - round s. [drop lid) or pan lid directl y on the
into short , '/ +-inch (5 mm) thick batons Blanch the lotu s root for I minute . vegeta bles and simm er gently for
· ½ teaspoon flaky sea salt Scoop out wit h a wire-mesh sieve . 5 minutes. Stir in the green beans
• Boiling water In the same pot of water used to and continue cooking until all of
• I small carrot , scrubbed blanch the lotus, boil the taro th e vegetables ha ve softened and are
½ small burdock root (3½ oz/ 100 g), roots for 3 minutes . Drain , halve cooked through, 5 more minutes.
scrubbed lengthwise, and cu t crosswise into Stirring might cau se the vegetables
2 table spoons canola (rapeseed) oil ¼-inch (5 cm) half-moons. to br eak into pieces, so best to pick
IO½ oz (300 g) boneless , skinless up the pot in two hands , and roll it
chicken thighs, cut into 3/+-inch In a pot of boiling salted water , aro u nd to distribute the simmering
(2 cm) cubes blanch the green beans for liquids for even flav or ing .
2 large or 4 small dried shi itake , soaked Iminute. Drain an d refresh
in boiling water for 30 minutes and under cold running water. Cut Serve hot or co ld, garnished with
drain ed and thickly sliced crosswise into diagonal pieces about shichimi togarashi,if using.
· 2 ½ cups (20 fl oz/ 600 mi) r' /+ inches (3 cm) long . Rub the
Kat suobu shi Dashi (page 156) kon'!)lakuwith the salt, place in a
· 2 tablespoons mirin wire-mesh sieve, and pour a steady
· 3 tablespoons soy sauce str eam of boiling water over it for
• 2 tablespoons sake IO seconds.
Shichimi togarashi [seven-spice
powder]. optional Cut the carrot into 11/+-inch
(3 cm) triangular chunks (rangiri ;
see page 446). Slice the burdock
crosswise into 3/+-i nch (2 cm)
diagonal pieces and place in a
m edium bowl filled with cold water
and the remaining 2 tablespoon s
vinegar to avoid discolor ation.

DAIKON WITH
SOY-SIMMERED CHICKEN
Preparation time: IO minutes This di sh that can be thrown Return the liquid to the pot and
Cooking time, 20 minutes together for a quick supper and add the chicken, soy sauce , mirin,
Serves, 6 is good served with a bowl of rice and sake. Cook over medium -
and some dressed greens, such high heat , stirring and breaking
r'/3 lb (600 g) daikon , scrubbed and as Spinach and Chrysanthemum up lump s, until the chicken is no
cut into 3/+- inch (2 cm) cubes Petals in Soy Dashi (page 61). longer pink and the simmering
½ lb (225 g) finely ground juices have mostly evaporated ,
(minced) chicken Place the daikon in a heavy medium 6-8 minutes. St ir in the cooked
3 tablespoons soy sauc e pot , add water to cover, place an daikon cubes and simmer for
• I 1/2 tablespoon s mirin otoshibuta[dr op lid] or pan lid on 5-7 minutes more so the daikon
• I½ tablespoons sake the surface of the daikon, and bring can absorb the flavoring. Serve hot.
to a boil over medium-high heat.
Adjust to a lively simmer and cook
until the daikonis firm-tender,
5 minutes. Remove the cooked
daikon cubes with a slotted spoon
and slide into a wire-mesh sieve
set over a bowl to catch the drips.
Measure out I½ cups (12 fl oz /
350 ml) of the daikon simmering
liquid and discard the re st.
SARDINES SIMMERED
WITH UMEBOSHI
Preparation time : 20 minutes Umeboshi is at once salty and pucker- fish are warm to the touch, place
Cooking time, 15 minutes sou r-a good foil for the rich, an otoshibuta[drop lid] on top of
Serves, 6 simmer ed sardines . them and adjust to a quiet simmer.
Cook , shaking the pot occasionally
6 small fre sh sardine s (18½ oz/ 525 g) Slice the heads off the sardines to distribute the simmering juices
ro½ oz (300 g) daikon, scrubbed and cut down the belly with a sharp (but taking care not to break the
• 4 tablespoons soy sauce knife . Pull out the guts , but keep shape of the sardines), 2- 3 minutes ,
· 2 tablespoons mirin the fish o therwi se intact. Rinse off depending on size. Serve I sardine
• 4 umeboshi [salted sour plum], pitted any blood under cold, running per person on a rectangular fish
and finely chopped water and pat dry, inside and out , plate . Spoon some of the umeboshi
with a clean tea towel. Finely grate solids and the simmering liquid
the daikon and squeeze out excess over the fish , and plac e a mound
moisture. of squeezed, grated daikonalongside .
Serve hot or at room temperature .
In a heavy medium pot, combine
r' /• cups (ro fl oz/ 300 ml) water, @ p.143
the soy sauce, and mirin and bring
to a simmer over medium heat.
Lay the sardines in the bottom of
the pot, side by side, and top each
with chopped umeboshi.Return to
a simmer over medium heat and
spoon the juices over the tops of
the fish . Once the skins of the
NIMONO - SIMMERED
MISO-SIMMERED MACKEREL
Preparation time, 20 minutes Quickly executed , this dish bring to a simmer over medium
Cooking time, 20 minutes makes convenient leftovers the heat. Slip in the mackerel piece s
Serves, 6 following day . and cook at a brisk simmer for
r minute. Reduce the heat to low
I large macker el (1 1/, lb/ 600 g), cleaned Wash the mackerel fillets , pat dry , and continue simmering gently ,
and filleted and cut crosswise into thirds. Set a while spooning the simmering
3 ½ oz (100 g) large negi or fat scallions wire grate directly over a gas burner liquid over the fish , until cooked
(spring onio ns), cut crosswise into and grill the negiover low heat until through , 5 more minutes. Spoon
I½-inch (4 cm) pieces softened and slightly caramelized , the fish out onto one side of a
4 tablespoons barley miso but not black , 5-7 minutes . servi ng platter and stack the grilled
• 2 tablespoons mirin (Alternatively, cook the negiin a negiattractively on the other side.
• 2 tablespoons sake covere d cast iron pan over low heat , Serve hot or at room temperature.
3
/• -inch (2 cm) piece fresh ginger, turning occasionally , for about
peeled and thinly sliced crosswise IO minutes.)
In a medium pot , stir together

th e miso, mirin, and sake to make a
smooth paste. Slowl y whisk¾ cup
(6 fl oz/r7 5 ml) water into the paste
to loo se n . Drop in the ginger and
BURI DAIKON
Preparation time: IO minutes Daikon makes an excellent foil to Stir in the daikon and continue
Cooking time, 20 minutes fatty fish like buri [adult yellowtail]. cooking until the daikon is
Serves, 4 Somehow when the daikonis translucent and silky soft, 5-8
simmered with the fish it absorbs more minutes. Stir in the soy sauce ,
4 pieces bone-in buri [adult the juices and b ecomes extremely I tab le spoon at a time in the last
yellowtaill. quartered (9 oz/250 g) flavorful. 2 minutes of cooking.
• Boiling water
· ½ lb (225 g) daikon, scrubbed Nestle the buri pieces in a wire-m esh Ladle .into a serving bowl with some
3
/• - inch (2 cm) piece fresh ginger, sie ve and pour a steady stream of of the simmering juices. Garnish
peeled and thinly sliced crosswise , plus boiling water over them for with the finely slivered ginger . This
I tabl espoon finely slivered fresh ginger IO secon d s to remove any lingering is best hot , but also hold s up well at
· 3 31• cups (30 fl oz/900 ml) fish odors. Rinse with cold water room temperature.
Kat suo bu shi Dashi (page 156) and blot dry with a clean tea towel.
• I cup (8 fl oz/250 ml) sake
½ cup (4 fl oz/!25 ml) mirin Slice the daikoninto I 1/• - inch (3 cm)
• ½ tea spoon flaky sea salt rounds. Bevel the edges , if desi re d,
· 4 tab lespoons soy sauce and cut the rounds into quarters .
Put the buri in a medium pot with

the ginger slices and cover with
the dashi, sake, mirin, and salt. Pla ce
an otoshibuta [drop lid] or pi ece
of p arc hment paper on the surface
o f the ingredients, and bring to
an active simmer over medium -
high heat. Simmer until th e fish
is sta rting to cook, 3- 5 minutes .

SIMMERED DAIKON AND
YELLOWTAIL COLLAR
Preparation time: 15 minutes Buri kama [adult yellowtail collar]- the soy sauce and mirin to make a
Cooking time: 20 minutes the cross section right below the well-seasoned broth . Add the daikon
Serves: 6 gill and above the main body of pieces, place an otoshibuta[drop lid]
the fish-is often grilled. It is or piece of parchment paper on the
½ lb (225 g) daikon, peeled and simmered in this recipe, making surface of the daikon, and simmer
halved lengthwise the flesh meltingly luscious. Serve over medium heat until half
9 oz (250 g) buri kama [adult in a rustic pottery bowl as part of cooked, about IO minutes. Slip in
yellowtail collar] a casual meal. the ginger and buri and simmer for
• Boiling water 15 minutes more over medium-low
6-inch (15 cm) piece konbu Cut each daikonhalf into 11/•-inch heat to cook the buri.
• 4 tablespoons soy sauce (3 cm) triangular chunks (rangiri ;
• 2 tablespoon mirin see page 446) . Place the buri kama
I ¼-inch (3 cm) piece fresh ginger , in a large colander and pour a
peeled and thinly sliced crosswise steady stream of boiling water over
it for IO seconds.
Put the konbu in a medium pot

filled halfway up with cold water ,
about 2% cups (21 fl oz/625 mi).
Bring almost to a boil. Stir in
SOY SAUCE-SIMMERED
DAIKON AND PORK
Preparation time: IO minutes Adding daikonand konbu to this [drop lid] or pan lid directly on
Cooking time : 35 minutes rich, simmered dish renders it the surface of the ingredients and
Serves: 6 lighter and more balanced than the bring to a simmer over medium-
traditional version , which is made high heat and cook at a gentle
I lb (450 g) pork belly , cut into without either. This dish (as well as simmer until the daikonhas cooked
3
/+- to 11/+- inch (2-3 cm) squares any other pork belly dish) should completely through and softened
• Boiling water be made with pork belly without to a shiny tran slucence, about
• 6-inch (15 cm) piece konbu rind, as the fat will not melt down 35 minutes. The simmering liquid
I lb (450 g) daikon , peeled and cut into properly . should be subtly flavored and not
3
/• inch (2 cm) thick slices, edges beveled overly sweet or salty from the mirin
I cup (8 fl oz/250 ml) sake Place the pork pieces in a wire- and soy sauce. Serve sprinkled with
• 6 tablespoons soy sauce mesh sieve and pour a steady stream shichimitogarashi.
• 3 tablespoon mirin of boiling water over them in a
Shichimi togarashi [seven - spice circular fashion for IO seconds. Lay
powder]. for garnish the konbu on the bottom of a small
to heavy medium pot and add the
pork and daikonpieces. Pour I cup
(8 fl oz/ 250 mi) cold water into
the pan. It should reach halfway
up the sides of the pork and daikon.
Splash in the sake to cover (adding
more water, if needed) . Add the soy
sauce and mirin. Place an otoshibuta

SIMMERED PORK BELLY
Preparation time: 20 minutes Although commonly consumed in In a small saucepan, combine

Cooking time: 5 ½ hours the winter, some say the richness 1¼ cups (ro fl oz/ 300 ml) water,
Serves: 6 of this dish makes for energy food the sake, soy sauce, and mirin . Bring
during the hot and muggy Japanese to a simmer, then remove from
1'/• lb (800 g) pork belly, cut into summer. Good as a small bite with the heat.
¾ - to 1'/•-inch (2-3 cm) cubes a beer in the late afternoon when
l dried red japones chile, torn into feeling droopy. Pork belly should Scoop the meat out of the
small pieces always have its rind removed before simmering liquid with a slotted
¾ cup (3 ½ oz/IO0 g) fresh or being used in Japanese dishes . spoon, discard the liquid, and
reconstituted okara [soy pulp] rinse the okara solids off of the meat
• 6 tablespoons sake In a heavy medium pot , combine with cold water. Put the meat in
6 tablespoons soy sauce the pork belly , chile , and okara the small saucepan of seasonings,
• 6 tablespoons mirin and add cold water to cover by place an otoshibuta[drop lid] or
½ tablespoon mustard powder, mixed 4-inches (ro cm) . Bring to a boil piece of parchment paper on top,
with ½ teaspoon water over medium-high eat, then set an and simmer for 20-30 minutes
otoshibuta[drop lid] on top of the to absorb flavor.
meat, reduce the heat to low, and
simmer for 5 hours. To serve, spoon into a bowl with the
mustard on the side, to be dabbed
on as desired.
PORK BELLY WITH

GREEN BEANS
Preparation time, 15 minute s, plus Pork belly is a versatile and easily Skim the cooled pork pieces out
30 minutes cooling time obtainable cut both inJapan and of the cooking liquid, discard the
Cooking time: 50 minutes abroad. (Though injapan, we liquid, and put the pork in the
Serves: 6 never use pork belly that still has its medium pot. Add the dashi, sake,
rind, so be sure to ask the butcher soy sauce, mirin , and ginger. Set
l lb 2 oz (500 g) pork belly , cut into to remove it.) The trick is to render an otoshibuta[drop lid] or piece
¾- to 1¼-inch (2-3 cm) cubes out enough fat so the pork becomes of parchment paper across the
13 oz (375 g) fat green beans, cut meltingly soft. Adding a vegetable surface and bring to a simmer over
crosswise into ¾-inch (2 cm) lengths to the dish makes a big difference. medium-high heat. Adjust the heat
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped While daikon and negiare possible, and cook at a simmer, swirling the
fresh ginger here green beans add a pleasant pot occasionally, until the liquids
· % cup (5 fl oz/r50 ml) Katsuobushi vegetal note to the dish. have reduced by more than half ,
Dashi (page 156) 10- 15 minutes .
• 6 tablespoons sake Place the pork belly in a small
4-tablespoons soy sauce saucepan and add water to just Stir in the green beans and vinegar,
· 2 tablespoons mirin cover. Bring to a boil over high replace the otoshibuta, and cook for
1
/2 teaspoon brown rice vinegar heat , reduce the heat to a simmer, just enough time to absorb flavor
cover, and cook for 30 minutes. but not discolor, l-2 minutes.
Remove the pork and cooking Serve immediately.
liquid to a small bowl and allow
to cool for about 30 minutes. [ill p.147
Meanwhile , bring a medium pot of

water to a boil and blanch the green
beans for 3 minutes. Scoop out and
refresh under cold, running water.
Shake off excess water and set aside .
NI MONO - SIMMERED
NIKUJAGA
Preparation time , 30 minutes Nikujaga (soy - simmered pork and pink , add the mirin, sake, and soy
Cooking time : 25 minutes potatoes) is a much-loved dish that sauce. Continue simmering until
Serves: 6 benefits from some green to give the potatoes are cooked through
it color . If peas are out of season, to the centers, 6-8 minutes more.
2 cups (12 oz/350 g) shucked fresh two-minute blanched green beans Add the peas , cook about 30 more
green peas or blanched green beans make an excellent substitute. second s.
• I package (14,oz/ 400 g) shirataki
noodles , halved crosswise In a large pot of salted boiling To serve, ladle out into large ,
I lb (450 g) onions, halved through water, blanch the peas for about donburi [deep soup bowls]. Spr inkle
the root and cut into '/• - inch (6 mm) 30 seconds. Scoop out with a large with ichimitogarashi,if using . It can
half-moons wire-mesh sieve and refresh under be served on its own or with a small
· 2 lb (900 g) potatoes , peeled and cut cold , running water. Drop the bowl of rice on the side .
into 2-3-inch (5-7 cm) chunks shiratakinoodles into the pot and
• 2 squares (4 inches/Jo cm) konbu parboil for about 2 minutes. Scoop
2 -inch (5 cm) piece fresh ginger, out and drain .
peeled and thinly sliced
2 dried red japones chiles In a heavy medium pot, combine
1 lb (450 g) pork belly, thinly sliced 6 cups (48 fl oz/J .5 liter s) water ,
and cut crosswise into 2-inch (5 cm) the onions , potatoes, konbu, ginger,
pieces and chiles. Bring to a brisk simmer
• Scant½ cup (3 1/2 fl oz/Joo ml) mirin over medium-high heat and cook
• Scant 1/2 cup (3 1/2 fl oz/100 ml) sake until the potatoes are starting to
• Generous 'It cup (7 fl oz/200
ml) soften , 6-8 minutes . Stir in the
soy sauce pork belly and once no longer
• lchimi togarashi [powderedjapanese
red chile] , optional
• Japanese Rice (page 291), for serving
(optional)
SOY-SIMMERED BEEF
AND BURDOCK
Preparation time: 20 minutes At Japanese New Year, some people and caramelized. Add the dashi, soy
Cooking time: 20 minutes make beef and burdock rolls, which sauce, sake, and mirin and simmer
Serves : 6 require a little work to assemble. gently for about IO minutes to
Here the basic ingredients are the flavor the burdock. Stir in the
9 oz (250 g) thinly sliced beef fillet same, but deconstructed , so this ginger , chile , and beef and simmer ,
• I tablespoons gold sesame oil version is quicker to put together stirring, until all of the liquid has
• IO½ oz (300 g) burdock root, and still tasty . evaporated. Serve hot or at room
scrubbed and cut into diagonal pieces temperature.
I½ inches (4 cm) long Cut the meat into roughly
3 1
· % cup (5 fl oz/150 ml) Katsuobushi /• x 1 /4-inch (2 x 3 cm) pieces @ p.149
Dashi (page 156) in order to be easily eaten with
3 tablespoons soy sauce chopsticks.
• 3 tablespoons sake
• ½ tablespoon mirin In a heavy medium saucepan ,
2 tablespoons finely slivered heat the sesame oil over medium
fresh ginger heat until shimmering . Add the
½ small dried red japones chile, cut burdock and stir-fry until glossy
into fine rounds
NIMONO - SIMMERED
MISO-SIMMERED BEEF
AND BURDOCK
Preparation time: 20 minutes Beef and burdock are a classic 2 minutes more , while stirring
Cooking time: 15 minutes pairing, and are most often and breaking up the clumps, until
Serves, 6 flavored with soy sauce. Here the it is no longer pink. Swirl in a
miso makes the dish warm and scant ½ cup (100 ml) cold water
7 oz (200 g) burdock root, scrubbed satisfying. (about one-eighth of the amount
• 2 tablespoons gold sesame oil of ingredients in the pan). Simmer
1 Quarter the burdock lengthwise, until the burdock is crisp-tender
/• negi or 4 scallion (spring onion)
bottoms , cut into fine rounds and cut crosswise into diagonal and the liquid has evaporated,
• I tablespoon finely chopped pieces 1/• inch ( 6 mm) long (itchogiri; about 2 minutes more.
fresh ginger see page 446).
5 oz (150 g) lean ground (minced) beef In a small bowl, stir together the
2 tablespoons barley miso or brown In a large frying pan, heat the miso, mirin, and sake. Remove the
rice miso sesame oil over medium heat. Add pan from the heat and stir the miso
l tablespoon mirin the burdock and stir-fry for about mixture into the beef and burdock .
• l tablespoon sake 2 minutes. Stir in the negiand Return the pan to medium heat,
ginger to distribute . Throw in the and cook, stirring, for 30 seconds
ground (minced) beef and cook more. Serve hot or at room
over medium-low heat, for about temperature.
ODEN
Preparation time: 30 minutes Oden [root vegetables simmered with In a heavy medium pot, combine
Cooking time: 30 minutes fish sausage)]. when made at home, the daikon, kon'9'aku, carrot, gobo,
Serves, 4 can be warming and delicious. dashi, and konbu. Bring to a simmer
Avoid the unappealing versions over medium-high heat, adjust to
4 medium eggs, at room temperature sold at localJapanese convenience a controlled simmer, and cook
• 2 (4-inch/Io cm) pieces daikon, stores during the winter. until the vegetables have cooked
scrubbed and halved lengthwise through, 8-10 minutes.
• 4½ oz (125 g) konnyaku In a pot of boiling water, boil the
· ½ teaspoon fine sea salt eggs for 9 minutes. Drain and run Fish out the konbu, snip into strips
• Boiling water cold water over them until they have ½ inch (12 mm) wide and 2 inches
2-inch (6 cm) piece medium cooled. Peel. (5 cm) long. Tie each of those into
carrot, scrubbed a simple knot and drop back into
2-inch (6 cm) piece gobo Bring a medium pot of water to the pot. Stir in the eggs, sake, soy
[burdock]. scrubbed a boil. Cut the daikoncrosswise into sauce, flaky salt, and chikuwaand
4 pieces chikuwa Uapanese fish sausage] 1¼-inch (3 cm) half-rounds. Cut set an otoshibuta[drop lid] on top to
• 3¾ cups (30 fl oz/900 ml) those half-rounds into quarters. keep the ingredients from bumping
Katsuobushi Dashi (page 156) Add to the pot and simmer until into each other. Simmer briskly
16-inch (40 cm) piece konbu softened , but still with hard until fully flavored, 3-5 minutes .
• 4 tablespoons sake centers, about 15 minutes. Drain. Ladle into large donburi [deep soup
4 tablespoons soy sauce bowls] and dab a bit of mustard on
• ¼ teaspoon flaky sea salt Cut the kon'9'akuinto l x 2-inch the side of the bowl.
1½ teaspoons mustard powder, mixed (2 . 5 x 5 cm) rectangles½ inch
with ½ teaspoon water (12 mm) thick. Rub with the fine
salt, place in a wire-mesh sieve,
and pour a steady stream of boiling
water over it for 30 seconds.
Quarter the carrot lengthwise and
halve crosswise. Halve the gobo
crosswise at a diagonal. Halve the
chikuwalengthwise, then crosswise.
NI MONO - SIMMERED
BAMBOO SHOOT
WITH KATSUOBUSHI
Preparation time, 25 minutes , plus Boiled fresh bamboo shoots The following day , remove the
overnight cooling smothered in delicately smoky bamboo shoot from the pot and
Cooking time: l hour the first day, plus katsuobushiis an example of how discard the liquid . Rinse off any
15 minutes the second day seasonal ingredients only need lingering rice bran solids and peel.
Serves: 6 a light hand to bring out their Cut the bamboo shoot into thin
natural nuances. wedges 2½ inches (6 cm) long .
11/s lb (600 g) fresh bamboo shoot, Place in a medium pot with the
unpeeled Place the bamboo shoot in a large katsuobushi,dashi, soy sauce, sake,
½ cup (1% oz/ 50 g) rice bran pot with the rice bran and chile . mirin, and salt. Top with an otoshibuta
l dried red japones chile, torn into Fill with cold water to cover by [drop lid] or pot lid and bring to
small pieces 4 inches (10 cm) and add an a simmer over medium-high heat.
l large handful freshly shaved otoshibuta[drop lid] or saucepan Adjust to a lively simmer and cook
katsuobushi or hanakatsuo lid to keep the bamboo shoot for 8-10 minutes to absorb flavor
1¼ cups (ro fl oz/300 ml) Katsuobushi submerged . Bring to a boil over and reduce the simmering liquid.
Dashi (page 156) medium-high heat, adjust to a
2 tablespoons soy sauce brisk simmer, and cook for l hour. Serve hot or at room temperature,
• l tablespoon sake Remove from the heat and allow with the katsuobushiclinging to the
½ tablespoon mirin to cool overnight in the simmering bamboo shoot and just a little of
• I pinch of flaky sea salt liquid. the simmering liquid to keep the
dish glossy and appealing.
SOY DASHI-SIMMERED
MUSHROOMS
Preparation time: 15 minutes Make this earthy dish in the fall In a medium pot , heat the soy
Cooking time, IO minutes when mushrooms are springing sauce , sake, mirin, and dashi over
Serves: 6 up in wooded areas . Use any medium heat. Once the liquid
combination of mushrooms starts to simmer , stir in the chile
7 oz (200 g) enoki available. and mushrooms. Cook over high
3 ½ oz (roo g) shimeji heat , stirring and tossing gently
3 ½ oz (roo g) eryngii [king oyster Prepare the mushrooms, Trim the with a pair of saibashi[cooking
mushrooms], bottoms paired off bottoms off the enoki and shimeji. chopsticks] to distribute heat, until
• 7 oz (200 g) maitake Separate the shimejiinto 2 or a large portion of the simmering
· 3 ½ oz (roo g) shiitake 3 stalks each . If the eryngiiare long, liquids has reduced , and the
• 4 tablespoons soy sauce halve them crosswise. Tear them mushrooms are cooked through
• 2 tablespoons sake lengthwise into thin strips. Tear the and glossy brown, 5-6 minutes.
• 2 tablespoons mirin maitakeinto rough pieces. Discard Serve hot or at room temperature .
½ cup (125 ml) Katsuobushi Dashi the shiitakestems and thickly slice
(page 156) the caps .
I dried red japones chile, torn
into pieces
NI MONO - SIMMERED
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shirumono
SOUPS
SHIRUMONO - SOUPS
While the Western perception of Japan is that Japanese eat

raw fish every day, in reality-far more frequently than sushi
or sashimi-it is soup, soup, soup (and noodles).
It is rare for a Japanese meal to not have even just a
simple bowl of miso soup. Casual spreads served on teshoku
[trays] always include a bowl of, usually clear, soup. And
soup appears in most restaurant meals. Sushi shops will serve
miso soup with clams at some point in the meal. And noodle
shops all serve their noodles inside a big bowl of soup, or
with a dipping broth on the side. And then there is dashi, the
ubiquitous Japanese broth. Dashi (in its several renditions)
can of course be the basis for soup, but it is also an integral
building block of a large proportion of Japanese dishes.
In addition to actual soups are soup-based dishes, such
as nabemono [one-pot dishes] and menrui [noodles], both
of which have their own chapters (pages 348 and 274).
However, the dividing line between soups and soupy-style
dishes can be blurry. For example, all the components of
nabemono can absolutely be put together and served as a soup.
And several of the noodle dishes might just as easily have
been classified as soups rather than noodles.
Some of the soups in this chapter have Western
influences and some use chicken stock. In the case of
chicken stock, I encourage making a big batch of Japanese
Chicken Broth (page 160) and freezing for future meals.
But if you use a store-bought chicken stock, be sure to dilute
it with some water, as Japanese broths are quite mild by
comparison. Subtle is what you are looking for in flavoring
Japanese dishes.
154 5t!fm SHIRUMONO - SOUPS

SUMO-STYLE CHICKEN SOUP
Preparation time, 45 minutes The thinner-bodied Sumo Cut the carrots crosswise into
Cooking time: 2 hours wrestlers are called "Soppu-type," r½-inch (4 cm) lengths . Slice those
Serves, 6 since they resemble chicken bones pieces lengthwise into slabs ¾ inch
compared to the typical hefty- (2 cm) thick. Stack the slabs and cut
For the broth , bodied wrestlers. The Japanese lengthwise into batonnets % inch
IO oz (300 g) chicken bones name of this soup , Soppu-daki, is a (r cm) wide . Cut the chicken into
2 small onions , peeled and quartered play on words evoking the "soppu- ¾ - inch (2 cm) pieces.
2 stalks celery, with leaves, cut crosswise type" sumo wrestlers and the Dutch
into ¾-inch (2 cm) pieces name for soup-borrowed from Adjust the heat under the broth
I large carrot , scrubbed and cut Dutch traders. The chicken broth to medium and add the chicken ,
crosswise into '/+-inch (2 cm) pieces base is meant to add richness to fill k<!Jadofu,kon'!)'aku,usuage, and carrot
I handful Italian or curly parsley the bellies of the hungry wrestlers . batonnets. Cook at a lively simmer
· 6 tablespoons soy sauce The garlic chives add an integral until all of the ingredients have
2 tablespoons mirin flavoring note , so be sure to use absorbed flavor and the carrot has
the six whole chives and not just softened , 7-8 minutes. Drop in
For the soup: six leaves. the napa cabbage ( Chinese leaf),
3 pieces koyadofu [freeze-dried tofu]. shungiku,and garlic chives. Stir once
reconstituted (see Note, page 309) Make the broth: Rinse the chicken or twice to distribute and cook for
9 oz (250 g) konnyaku, torn into bite- bones with plenty of cold water . about I more minute, until the
size pieces Drop them into a heavy medium greens have wilted.
Boiling water pot and add 4 quarts (about
2 small carrots, scrubbed 4 liter s) cold water. Throw in To serve , ladle into large, donburi
I O½ oz (300 g) boneless , skinless , the onions, celery, carrot, and [deep soup bowls]. Sprinkle with
chicken thigh parsley and bring to a near boil shichimitogarashi,if you are looking for
2 usuage [deep-fried tofu pouches]. cut over high heat. Adjust to a gentle a little heat. Serve with individual
into 6 pieces simmer and cook uncovered for bowls of Japanese rice on the side.
7 oz (200 g) napa cabbage (Chinese I½ hours . Every 30 minutes, skim
leaf), cut crosswise into large shreds off the scum that accumulates on Note: This soup makes excellent
I½ inches (4 cm) wide the surface of the broth. Strain leftovers, but if intending to save
· 2% oz (75 g) shungiku [edible the broth into a medium pot or some for later , don't add all of
chrysanthemum greens] donabe[flameproof earthenware the greens . Just add enough for
6 fat garlic chives , cut crosswise into casserole], season with the soy sauce the portions you are serving and
3
/+-inch (2 cm) pieces and mirin, and set the pot over low reserve the .rest to stir in when
Shichimi togarashi [seven-spice heat to keep warm. reheating the soup.
powder]. optional
• Japanese Rice (page 291), for serving Make the soup: Cut the reconsti-
tuted k<!Jadofu
into 4 pieces each.
Drop the kon'!)'akuinto a wire-mesh
sieve and pour a steady stream of
boiling water over it for IO seconds.
155 SHI RUM ONO - SOUPS

KATSUOBUSHI DASHI
Preparation time: IO minutes This method for making dashiyields a steep for 8 minutes. Strain the
Cooking time: IO minutes highly flavored broth that holds up to dashithrough a wire-mesh sieve
Makes : I¼ cups (IO fl oz/ 300 ml) the artisanal seasonings and seasonal before using.
vegetables recommended in this
· 4-inch (IO cm) square konbu book . For a lighter version , shared by [variation]
(about 5-7 g) Sakai Shoten, an artisanal katsuobushi Soak the konbu in a small saucepan
I handfuls freshly shaved katsuobushi or producer in Kagoshima prefecture, with 2 cups (16 fl oz/500 ml)
hanakatsuo (about 5 g) see the variation. The dashiwill lose cold water for I hour. Heat slowly
a little brightness, but nonetheless over low heat until small bubbles
[variation] any unused portion can be stored in appear on the bottom of the pan.
Makes: 1% cups (13½ fl oz/400 ml) the refrigerator for a day . Pluck out the konbuwith a pair
of tongs and increase the heat
• 4-inch (10 cm) square konbu Place the konbu in a small saucepan to medium. Bring the water to a
(about 5-7 g) and add 2 cups (16 fl oz/500 ml) simmer and remove from the heat.
3 handfuls freshly shaved katsuobushi cold water. Bring to a near simmer Stir in the katsuobushiand let steep
or hanakatsuo (about 15 g) over medium-high heat. Remove for 2 minutes. Strain through a
the konbu. Drop in the katsuobushi, cheesecloth-lined wire sieve and let
and cook at a gentle simmer over sit for I minute before using .
low heat for about 8 minutes.
Remove from the heat and let
EE, 5t
fji 1±1 KONBU DASHI
Preparation time: 5 minutes, plus If you are in a hurry and cannot [variation]
overnight soaking soak overnight , bring the konbu to Konbu Shiitake Dashi, Add 4 small
Makes: 1% cups (13 fl oz/400 ml) a near boil, remove from the heat, dried shiitakewith the konbu.
and let steep I hour before draining
2 squares (4 inches/Jo cm) konbu and using .
(½ oz/J5 g total)
Soak the konbu overnight in a small
saucepan with generous 2 cups
(17 fl oz/ 500 ml) cold water . Strain
through a wire-mesh sieve before
using as a vegetarian stock.
i.J';z L, KAESHI
Preparation time: 5 minutes Kaeshiis a liquid flavoring added cook , stirring constantly over
Cooking time: 15 minutes to dashito make noodle and tempura medium heat, until the sugar has
Makes: 2½ cups (20 fl oz/ 600 ml) broths. It keeps for many months , melted . Stir in the soy sauce and
if well sealed in a jar and stored in cook undisturbed until the surface
• ½ cup (4 fl oz/J25 ml) mirin the refrigerator. of the liquid is covered with a light-
· % cup (4½ oz/125 g) organic sugar brown foam , 3-5 minutes. Remove
Generous 2 cups (17 fl oz/500 ml) In a small saucepan, bring the mirin immediately from the heat.
soy sauce to a simmer over medium-high
heat . Cook, stirring , until the
alcohol aromas have dissipated ,
3-5 minutes . Add the sugar and
SHIR UM ONO - SOUPS

NOODLE DIPPING BROTH
Preparation time: 5 minutes Use for dipping simple boiled Stir the kaeshiinto the dashiand
Makes: 1% cups (13 fl oz/ 400 mi) noodles such as udon, soba, or somen. use at room temperature, or chill
The dashito kaeshiproportion is 3 until cold before ladling into small
• 6 tablespoons Kaeshi (page 156) to I. individual soup bowls or sobacups.
• 1¼ cups (10 fl oz/300 mi) Katsuobushi
Dashi (page 156)
TEMPURA DIPPING BROTH
Preparation time: 5 minutes Use this broth for dipping tempura In a small saucepan , warm the kaeshi
Cooking time: 5 minutes or fried foods instead of seasoning and dashiover low heat. Ladle into
Makes , Generous I½ cups with salt. The dashito kaeshi individual dipping cups for serving.
(13 fl oz/375 ml) proportion here is 4 to I.
• 5 tablespoons Kaeshi (page 156)

• 1'/• cups (10 fl oz/300 ml) Katsuobushi
Dashi (page 156)
HOT NOODLE BROTH
Preparation time: 5 minutes This broth acts as the base for In a small saucepan, heat the kaeshi
Cooking time : 5 minutes big bowls of soupy noodles such and dashiover low heat. Ladle over
Makes, 11/, generous cups (n fl oz/ as udon or soba. The dashito kaeshi cooked noodles.
330 mi) proportion here is IO to I.
• 2 tablespoons Kaeshi (page 156)

• 11/• cups (IO fl oz/300 ml) Katsuobushi
Dashi (page 156)
IRIKO DASHI
Preparation time, 5 minutes , plus There is no one exact way to yields a subtler flavor. Use this dashi
8 hours soaking time prepare iriko dashi. Iriko is a generic as a base for miso soup or Island
Makes: 31/, cups (27 fl oz/800 ml) term that refers to a whole range of Somen with Red Chile and Garlic
dried fish produced inJapan, from Chives (page 280).
• r'/• oz (35 g) iriko [sun-dried fish] large dried aji [horse mackerel] to
teeny little eso [a variety of juvenile Soak the dried fish in I quart
sardine] . The best quality iriko are (32 fl oz/r liter) cold water for
sun-dried . Some broths are made 8 hours. Strain the broth and
over heat ; others simply soak the discard the fish.
fish in cold water (as here) , which
157 SHI RUM ONO - SOUPS

CLAM BROTH
Preparation time: 15 minutes Small clams make for less work , Cook until the clams have opened,
Cooking time: 5 minutes since they can be left whole for 3-5 minutes. Using a wire - mesh
Makes: 3 cups (24 fl oz/ 700 mi) serving, however larger clams work sieve, transfer the clams to a
fine if they are cut down to bite-size medium bowl. Remove the clams
14 oz (400 g) small clams , such as asari pieces. Don't skip the soaking and from the shells and place in a small
IJapanese littlenecks] or Manila rinsing of the clams: It's important bowl until ready to finish seasoning
(about 40) for removing any sand . the broth (discard the shells) and
• ½ cup (4 fl oz/r25 mi) sake remove the broth from the heat.
Scrub the clams in several changes If any grains of sand escaped into
of cold water. Let the clams sit for the broth, strain through a double
about IO minutes in salty water to layer of cheesecloth.
express any lingering sand. Rinse
the clams again and drain . Use as a base for miso soup or season
with salt and serve reheated with the
Put the clams in a medium saucepan clams and garnished with chopped
and add generous 2 cups (17 fl scallions (spring onions).
oz/ 500 mi) cold water. Set the
saucepan over high heat , add the
sake, cover, and bring to a boil.
CLAM BROTH SOUP
Preparation time: IO minutes Clams and spinach always go well softened and pliable , about
Cooking time: 5 minutes together and this warming and light 3 minutes. Add the reserved clams
Serves: 6 soup is typically served as a soup and spinach leaves. Stir to wilt for
course before dinner. 30 seconds to I minute , depending
6 fresh sh ii take , stems discarded on the toughness of the leaves.
• ½ teaspoon soy sauce Slice a beveled V-cut cross (hanagiri; Ladle into 6 individual bowls and
Clam Broth (page 158), strained , clams see page 446) into the tops of the garnish with a strip ofyuzu zest.
reserved shiitakeand sprinkle with the soy
½ teaspoon flaky sea salt sauce . In a saucepan, bring the (QI p.159
6 large spinach leaves , cut crosswise clam broth and salt to a gentle
into 2 - inch (5 cm) pieces simmer over medium heat. Drop
6 strips (¼ inch / 6 mm wide) yuzu or in the shiitakecaps and cook until
Meyer lemon zest
SHIRUMONO - SOUPS
CLEAR FISH BROTH
Preparation time: IO minutes This clear fish broth is one of Broil (grill) for about 7 minutes
Cooking time: 45 minutes the most quintessentialJapanese on each side, or until the oils have
Makes: 5 cups (40 fl oz/1.2 liters) dishes. been released and there is some
browning, but not blackening, on
• l lb 2 oz (500 g) snapper head and Position a rack 6 inches (15 cm) the surface of the head and bones .
center bones (with flesh still clinging on) from the top of the oven and
• ½ teaspoons flaky sea salt preheat the broiler (grill). Meanwhile , bring 2 quarts
• l large negi or 4 fat scallions (spring (64 fl oz/2 liters) water to a boil
onions), cut crosswise into 2-inch (5 Pull out the snapper gills and whack over high heat.
cm) pieces the head in half to split into two
• l ¼-inch (3 cm) piece fresh ginger , cheeks. Cut the center bone into Drop the broiled fish bones and
scrubbed and cut crosswise into '/•-inch thirds. Rinse the bones and heads head pieces, negi, and ginger into
( 6 mm) slices under cool , running water and pat the hot water and simmer gently
· l teaspoon fine sea salt dry . Line a baking sheet with foil for 30 minutes. Strain, season with
l ½ tablespoons finely chopped fresh and set the fish bones and heads on the fine salt, and reheat for serving.
chives or scallions (spring onions) the foil. Holding your hand Ladle into individual soup bowls
12 inches (30 cm) above the bones , and garnish with the chives.
sprinkle both sides with the flaky
sea salt (this ensures a light even
coating) .
JAPANESE CHICKEN BROTH
Preparation time: IO minutes Japanese stocks and broths are does not boil since boiling will
Cooking time : 1'/• hours generally much lighter in taste result in a cloudy broth . (That said,
Makes: 3 quarts (3 liters) than Western ones; so Japanese this broth tends to be cloudy from
chicken broth is similarly subtler the negi.) Immediately reduce the
12 oz (350 g) uncooked chicken bones and less chicken-forward than heat so the broth gently simmers ,
• 2 medium negi or 6 fat scallions typical chicken broth. Duck or uncover, and cook for about 1½
(spring onions) , cut crosswise into turkey bones can substitute for hours, skimming occasionally.
2-inch (5 cm) pieces the chicken . Strain the broth (di scard the bones
• 2-inch (5 cm) piece fresh ginger, and aromatics).
scrubbed and cut crosswise into '/•-inch Rinse the bones under cold
( 6 mm) slices running water and drop into a large
stockpot. Add the negiand ginger
and fill with 4 quarts (4 liters)
cold water . Cover and bring to an
almost boil over high heat, 10-15
minutes. Watch the pot so that it
160 SHIRUMONO - SOUPS

DEEP-FRIED TOFU
POUCH SOUP
Preparation time, IO minutes This is a light , lovely soup , but its In a medium pot , bring the
Cooking time, 5 minutes simplicity demands that the usuage remaining generous 2 cups
Serves, 4 [deep-fried tofu pouches] be of top (17 fl oz/500 ml) dashito a simmer
quality. Source from a local tofu over medium-high heat. Reduce
2 usuage [deep-fried tofu pouches] shop, if possible , the heat to a gentle simmer and stir
• Boiling water in the remaining I tablespoon each
r¾ oz (50 g) shimeji, bottoms Halve the usuagecrosswise, place sh'!Yuand sake, ½ tablespoon mirin,
trimmed off in a wire-mesh sieve, and pour a and the salt.
2½ cups (20 fl oz / 600 ml) steady stream of boiling water over
Katsuobushi Dashi (page 156) them for about IO seconds. Cut the To serve , set a piece of usuagein each
2 tablespoons usukuchi shoyu usuage crosswise into 1/-t-inch of 4 soup bowls and rest the shimeji
• 2 tablespoons sake (5 mm) strips and separate the on top, caps pointing up. Ladle
r½ tablespoons mirin shimejiinto single stalks. Place the the broth evenly among the 4 bowls
• 'I, teaspoon fine sea salt usuageand shimejiin a small saucepan and garnish with the daikonsprouts,
I handful daikon sprouts, cut off their with scant ½ cup (4 fl oz/ roo ml) laying them in the same direction
sponge base of the dashi, and I tablespoon each as the shimeji. Eat with chopsticks by
of the usukuchish'!)lu,sake, and mirin. rolling up the shimejiand sprouts
Bring to a simmer over medium - in the usuageand sip the soup in
high heat , then remove from between bites.
the heat and allow to cool in the
simmering liquid before draining.
CARROT SOUP
Preparation time: 20 minutes Vegetable soups need no additional Working in batches , ladle into a
Cooking time, 20 minutes stock if your vegetables are seasonal blender and whirl until smooth .
Makes , 2 quarts (64 fl oz/2 liters) and flavorful. This soup freezes well Scrape the blended soup into a
and is convenient to have on hand. clean pot, stir in the corn, and
IO½ oz (300 g) celery . leaves finely reheat. Season with the salt and
chopped and reserved Cut the celery , carrots, potatoes , pepper. Serve sprinkled with the
I lb 2 oz (500 g) carrots , scrubbed and onions into medium chunks chopped celery leaves .
· IO½ oz (300 g) potatoes . peeled and slide into a heavy medium pot.
• 9 oz (250 g) onions, peeled Add 2 quarts (64 fl oz / 2 liters)
I large ear of corn, kernels cut off water and bring to a boil over high
the cob heat. Adjust to a lively simmer
2 teaspoons flaky sea salt and cook until the vegetables have
½ teaspoon freshly ground black softened . 15- 20 minutes.
pepper

MISO SOUP WITH
GRATED CARROT
Preparation time: IO minutes The finely grated carrots add a into the ladle of dashi. Dunk the
Cooking time, 5 minutes note of sweetness to this soup and ladle back into the soup and stir
Serves, 6 balance well against the misobroth. in the seri and grated carrot. Heat
for I minute or so , but no longer,
½ medium carrot (3 1/, oz/roo g), Finely grate the carrot on an since heat destroys the probiotic
scrubbed oroshiganeUapanese grating plate]. propertie s of miso. Serve hot.
2% oz (75 g) daikon, scrubbed Quarter the daikonlengthwise , then
• 2 ½ cups (20 fl oz/600 ml) slice it crosswise into thin slices
Katsuobushi Dashi (page 156) (itchogiri; see page 446) .
• 4 tablespoons white miso or inaka miso
• I handful seri Uapanese wild parsley], In a medium pot, heat the dashi
cut crosswise into 3/+-inch (2 cm) lengths over medium-high heat and slip
in the daikon. Cook at a lively (but
not crazy) simmer until the daikon
has softened, 2-3 minutes. Scoop
up a ladle of dashiand whisk the miso
CABBAGE MISO SOUP
Preparation time: 15 minutes Excellent miso soup relies on In a medium pot, bring the dashi
Cooking time, 5 minutes homemade dashi, resist the to an almost simmer over medium-
Serves , 6 temptation to use instant dashi. high heat. Add the usuageand
While farming families sometimes cabbage, reduce the heat to low ,
I usuage [deep-fried tofu pouches], make big pots of misosoup full of and simmer for about I minute.
halved lengthwise root vegetables and cabbage, for a Whisk a small scoop of hot dashi
• Boiling water thrifty meal to feed a crowd, more into the miso to emulsify. Scrape
• 4 cups (30 fl oz/goo ml) Katsuobushi often misosoup relies on only two back into the soup, stir once to
Dashi (page 156) or three ingredients. distribute, remove from the heat ,
3 1/, oz (roo g) green cabbage, sliced and serve immediately.
into fine shreds Slice the usuagecrosswise into strips
5 tablespoons barley miso 1/+inch (6 mm) wide. Place in a
wire-mesh sieve and pour a steady
stream of boiling water over it for
about IO seconds. Shake off excess
water.
SHIRUMONO - SOUPS
MISO SOUP WITH
POACHED EGG
Preparation time: IO minutes Adding egg to miso soup gives it a gentle simmer , slip in the eggs ,
Cooking time, IO minutes richness and substance. one by one. Cover and cook at
Serves, 4 a bare simmer for I minute, swirl-
Break each egg into a small bowl. ing the pan a little to encourage
4 small eggs, at room temperature In medium saucepan, bring the the soup to slurp over the egg to
• 2 1/2 cups (20 fl oz/600 ml) dashi to a simmer over medium- aid the cooking process. Remove
Katsuobushi Dashi (page 156) high heat and add the onion slices. the soup from the heat. Allow the
• I small onion, halved and thinly sliced Reduce the heat to low and simmer egg to "cook " by the heat of the
• I tablespoon dried cut wakame, soaked until soft, 2-3 minutes. Drain the covered saucepan until partially set,
in cold water for QO minutes wakame. Dollop the miso into a soup 2 minutes. Ladle gently into 4 bowls
· 4 tablespoons brown rice miso ladle and whisk in a little of the and serve immediately.
dashito emulsify. Stir the miso into
the dashiwith the wakame.
When the soup has returned to
GRILLED EGGPLANT
MISO SOUP
Preparation time , IO minutes While still delicious pan-grilled or In a small saucepan , heat the dashi
Cooking time, IO minutes broiled, if the eggplant is charcoal over medium heat. Spoon the miso
Serves, 4 grilled, this soup is spectacular. into a ladle and dip the ladle into
The proportion of miso to dashiis the warm dashito catch up a little
9 oz (250 g) mediumjapanese purposely light, since this is of the liquid. Whisk the dashiinto
eggplants (aubergines) a summer dish. the miso to emulsify and dunk the
2 1/2 cups (20 fl oz/600 ml) ladle all the way into the dashi. Give
Katsuobushi Dashi (page 156) Place the eggplants (aubergines) the soup one more whisk, and ladle
• 4 tablespoons brown rice miso on a grate directly over a medium- over the eggplant. Sprinkle with the
2 teaspoons white sesame seeds, warmed high gas burner or in a cast iron sesame and serve hot.
in a small , dry frying pan pan over medium - high heat. Grill
until blackened on all sides and [variation]
collapsed , 5-6 minutes. Peel off the Chill all the ingredients and serve
blackened skin and tear into long cold.
strips. Divide the eggplant among
4 to 6 miso soup bowls.
SHIRUMONO - SOUPS
EGGPLANT AND PEANUT SOUP
Preparation time: 15 minutes Peanuts perhaps do not come to In a medium saucepan, simmer the
Cooking time, IO minutes mind as a conventional Japanese eggplant in the dashi over medium -
Serves, 4 ingredient, but they are grown low to low heat until soft, 7-I0
all over Japan and are eaten as a minutes. Scrape in the peanut miso
7 oz (200 g) thin, elongated Japanese snack or as a protein in shojinryori and stir to emulsify. Arrange each
eggplants (aubergines) Uapanese temple food]. eggplant piece in a small lacquer
r'I+ oz (50 g) unsalted roasted peanuts, bowl , ladle in the soup , sprinkle
skins removed Halve the eggplants (aubergines) with shiso, and serve.
I½ tablespoons white miso lengthwise and cut a vertical slit
• I tablespoon brown rice miso halfway up from the bottom to [Ql p.167
Generous 2 cups (17 fl oz/500 ml) form a V-like tail. Pulverize the
Konbu Dashi (page 156) peanuts in a suribachi[grinding
½ tablespoon chopped shiso leaves bowl] or food processor until the
oils come out. Smash in both misos.
NATTO SOUP
Preparation time: 15 minutes Though popular inJapan, many In a medium saucepan , heat the
Cooking time, IO minutes people living elsewhere do not care dashiover medium - high heat for
Serves, 4-6 for natto. Nonetheless, this soup I minute. Add the dashi little by
is delicious and should be given little to the natto- misomixture until
I package (3 oz/85 g) natto a chance . If you are fortunate, emulsified. Pour the mixture
• 4 tablespoons soybean miso you can source good-quality natto back into the saucepan and bring
• 2½ cups (20 fl oz/ 600 mi) made outside of Japan. The nameko to a simmer over medium heat.
Katsuobushi Dashi (page 156) mushrooms have a similar slippery Rinse the nameko, if needed , and
I handful nameko mushrooms, bottoms characteristic as the natto, and are as soon as the soup comes to a
trimmed off essential to this soup . simmer , drop into the pot with
4 tablespoons finely chopped negi the negi. Ladle into bowls and serve
or scallion (spring onion) Finely chop the natto and scrape immediately.
into a suribachi [grinding bowl].
Pound to a paste, then mash in the
miso. (Alternatively , pulse the natto
in a food processor , then add in
the miso.)

SWEET POTATO COUNTRY SOUP
Preparation time: 55 minutes Kenchinjiru [country soup] is the soup In a large heavy pot , heat the sesame
Co oking time: 25 minutes we make whenever a crowd comes oil over medium-low heat until
Serves , 6 to pound mochi. Sweet potato, hot, but not smoking. Scrape in the
ginger, and misoare an appealing chicken , burdock , carrot , daikon ,
(ro½ oz/ 300 g) momendofu or
I combination in this version. kon':Yaku, and sweet potato. Stir-fry
Japanese-style soft block tofu until the chick en is no longer pink ,
½ oz (roo g) burdock root , scrubbed Set the tofu on a cutting board 4-5 minutes . Stir in the taro . Add
• I medium carrot , scrubbed and place a small saucer underneath 3 generous quarts (3 liters) cold
• 8 oz (225 g) daikon , scrubbed it to angle the board into the water to the top of the chicken and
4½ oz (125 g) konnyaku, torn into kitchen sink (to catch drips). Lay vegetables and bring to a b o il over
bite - size pieces another cutting board on top of high heat . Adjust to a lively simmer
· Boiling water the tofu to press out moisture for and cook until the vegetables have
2 usuage [deep - fried tofu pouches], 20 minutes . Cut the tofu into softened, 12- 15 minutes .
halved lengthwise %-inch (r cm) cubes .
3 tablespoons gold sesame oil Cut the greens crosswise into
IO oz (300 g) boneless , skinle ss chicken Cut the burdock, carrot , and daikon r½-inch (4 cm) pieces and stir into
thigh , cut into '/•-inch (2 cm) cubes into triangular chunks (rangiri ; see the pot of chicken and vegetables
12 oz (350 g) sweet potato, peeled and page 446). Put the kon':Yakupieces along with the usuageand ginger .
cut into 3/•-inch (2 cm) cubes in a wire - mesh sieve and pour a Cook for about I minute more.
5 ¼ oz (150 g) taro roots , peeled and steady stream of boiling water over Slide the tofu gently into the pot.
cut into '/• -inch (2 cm) cubes them for about IO seconds. Cut the Remove from the heat. Measure
3 1/ 2 oz (roo g) komatsuna Uapanese usuage crosswise into strips 'I• inch the misointo a large ladle , and dip
mustard greens] , turnip greens, or (6 mm) wide , slide into another the ladle into the soup to cat ch up
mustard gre e ns sieve, and pour a steady stream of some broth . Whisk the misointo
2 tablespoons slivered fresh ginger boiling water over them for the broth , dunk the ladle back into
• 6 tablespoons inaka miso IO seconds. the soup, and stir to distribute.
Serve hot.
COUNTRY MISO SOUP
Preparation time : 30 minutes Serve this soup in the winter when Whisk a little dashiinto the miso
Cooking time: 15 minutes craving a big bowl of broth and and keep it next to the soup pot.
Serves : 4-6 vegetables . Slide in the tofu and bring back
to a simmer. Remove from the
• 7 oz (200 g) small taro roots, peeled Halve the taro lengthwise , then cut heat, stir in the misoand negiand
· 2 % oz (75 g) shimeji, bottoms crosswise into thin half-moons . serve immediately in large, donburi
trimmed off Cut the shimejicrosswise into thirds. [deep soup bowls].
5 cups (40 fl oz/ I. 2 liters) Katsuobushi
Dashi (page 156) In a medium pot, heat the dashiover
4 oz (n5 g) daikon, julienned medium - high heat. Add the taro,
I small carrot, scrubbed and julienned shimeji, daikon, carrot , and burdock
2 % oz (75 g) burdo ck root, scrubbed and simmer until the vegetables
and julienned have softened, about IO minutes.
4 tablespoons inaka miso
I (ro½ oz/ 300 g) momendofu or
Japane se-style soft block tofu , cut into
%-inch (r cm) cubes
• ½ medium negi or 2 scallions
(spring onions) , finely ch o pped
r68 SHIRUMONO - SOUPS

SILKY VEGETABLE SOUP
Preparation time: 15 minutes, plus Potato starch adds a subtle silkiness In a soup pot , bring the dashi
overnight soaking to this soup. Substitute Japanese almost to a boil over high heat.
Cooking time, I hour Chicken Broth (page 160) for the Add the root vegetables and shiitake.
Serves, 6 dashito get a richer version. Adjust the heat to a brisk simmer
and cook until the vegetables
Generous 11•cup (4 oz/60 g) dried Soak the soybeans overnight. have softened, about IO minutes.
soybeans (Or quick-soak, Bring to a boil Measure the potato starch into
I tablespoon fine sea salt over high heat , simmer for a small bowl and whisk a few
2 usuage [deep-fried tofu pouches] 3 minutes , and set aside to soak tablespoons of the soup into the
· Boiling water for I hour.) Drain. starch to create a smooth slurry.
8 oz (225 g) daikon, scrubbed Stir the slurry into the soup along
• I medium carrot, scrubbed Fill a small pot three-quarters of with the usukuchish'!)'u, usuage,and
5'/• oz (150 g) small turnips, scrubbed the way with cold water , add the cooked soybeans and simmer to
5 cups (40 fl oz/I. 2 liters) Katsuobushi salt , and bring to a boil over high thicken for 30 seconds.
Dashi (page 156) heat. Add the soaked soybeans and
6 shiitake, stems discarded and caps cook at a lively simmer until just Ladle the soup into 6 large, donburi
quartered cooked but not mushy, about [deep soup bowls] and serve
I tablespoon potato starch 45 minutes. Drain . immediately with I or 2 pinches
2 tablespoons usukuchi shoyu of shichimitogarashi,if using.
Shichimi togarashi [seven-spice Place the usuagein a wire-mesh sieve
powder], optional and pour a steady stream of boiling
water over it for 30 seconds to
remove oil. Drain well and cut into
½ x %-inch (12 mm x 2 cm) strips.
Slice the daikon, carrot , and turnips
into '/•-inch (6 mm) quarter-
rounds.
NEW YEAR SOUP
Preparation time, 15 minutes Ozoni is a soup that is made only at In a pot, combine 6 cups (51 fl oz/
Cooking time, IO minutes Japanese New Year and is consumed I. 5 liters) cold water and the konbu
Serves, 6 for breakfast on the morning of and bring to a boil over high heat.
January I. Squares of mochi(page Drop in the carrot, gobo, daikon, and
I large carrot, scrubbed 435) are heated up in the broth mochi.Adjust the heat to medium-
8 oz (225 g) daikon, scrubbed until hot and sticky. Children and low and simmer for 6 minutes.
3 1/2 oz (roo g) komatsuna Uapanese the elderly are warned to take heed Slip in the komatsunastems , cook
mustard greens] or spinach not to cho ke , because the mochi for 30 seconds , stir in the leaves,
3 squares (6 inches/r5 cm) konbu can stick in one 's throat. With that then season with the soy sauce and
• 3 1/2 oz (roo g) gobo [burdock], warning in mind, the ooey-gooey simmer for 30 secon ds more.
scrubbed and cut on the diagonal into mochiis eminently appealing and Remove the konbu.
'/• -in ch (6 mm) pieces the soup's clean simplicity makes
· 6 pieces dried mochi for a perfect food to usher in the To serve, place a piece of cooked
• 4 tablespoons soy sauce New Year. mochiinto each of 6 large donburi
• Shichimi togarashi [seven-spice [deep soup bowls]. Ladle in the
powder], optional Cut the carrots and daikoninto rest of the ingredients evenly. Serve
'/•-inch (6 mm) half- or quarter- immediately with I pinch of shichimi
rounds, to make bite size pieces. togarashi,if using.
Cut the komatsunaleaves into 2-inch
(5 cm) pieces and the stems into
I '/+-inch(3 cm) pieces.
SHIRUMONO - SOUPS
KENCHINJIRU
Preparation time: 55 minutes Kenchiryiru[rustic vegetable soup] In a heavy medium pot, heat the
Cooking time, 20 minutes is made all over Japan. This chunky oil over medium heat. Add the
Serves: 6 version is from Iwate prefecture, daikon, taro, sweet potato, carrot,
a mountainous area in the north of burdock, and shiitake. Stir-fry
I teaspoon flaky sea salt the country. Doubling or tripling for 2-3 minutes, then add the
9 oz (250 g) konnyaku, torn the recipe makes sense, since the kon'!)laku,usuage,and tofu. Continue
into bite-size pieces soup is traditionally served at large stir-frying over low heat until the
• Boiling water gatherings, and leftovers are eaten vegetables are glossy, 2-3 minutes
2 usuage [deep-fried tofu pouches], for several days afterward . more. Pour the dashiinto the pot
halved lengthwise with the vegetables and bring to a
2% oz (75 g) burdock root, scrubbed Rub ½ teaspoon of the salt into the simmer over medium heat. Simmer
• I½ tablespoons gold sesame oil kon19aku,place in a wire-mesh sieve , until the vegetables are cooked
7 oz (200g) daikon , scrubbed and cut and pour a steady stream of boiling through, 6-8 minutes . Season with
into '/+-inch (2 cm) cubes water over it for IO seconds . Place the usukuchish'!Yuand remaining
3 ½ oz (roo g) small taro roots, peeled the usuagein another sieve and pour ½ teaspoon salt. Stir the potato
and cut into ¾-inch (2 cm) cubes a steady stream of boiling water over starch mixture into the soup to add
3½ oz (roo g) sweet potato, peeled and it for IO seconds . Cut crosswise into creaminess to the broth. Simmer
1
cut into ¾-inch (2 cm) cubes /+-inch (6 mm) strips. for I-2 additional minutes.
I small carrot, scrubbed and cut into
%-inch (r cm) dice Drain the shiitake,remove and Ladle out into large, donburi [deep
2 dried shiitake , soaked in boiling water discard the stems, and cut the caps soup bowls], squeeze the grated
for 30 minutes into %-inch (1 cm) cubes . ginger to add a few drops of ginger
5 oz (150 g) momendofu or Japanese- juice to each bowl, garnish with
style soft block tofu, smashed by hand With your nondominant hand, mitsuba,and serve . Refrigerate the
5 cups (40 fl oz / I. 2 liters) Iriko Dashi hold the burdock above the cutting leftovers until needed.
(page 157) board and use a sharp knife to shave
1½ teaspoons usukuchi shoyu thin slices off the end of it as you
1½ teaspoons potato starch dissolved rotate it (sasagaki;see page 446), like
in I tablespoon water sharpening the end of a stick.
2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger
• 8 sprigs mitsuba, roughly chopped
KONNYAKU AND RICE SOUP
Preparation time: 15 minutes Unlike many kon'!Yaku[devil's In a medium saucepan, combine

Cooking time: IO minutes tongue] dishes, this one is ultra the chicken broth and soy sauce.
Serves, 4 light and well suited for a spring Drop in the drained kon'!Yaku
lunch when wild mitsuba[a common and bring to a simmer over
9 oz (250 g) konnyaku, halved Japanese herb) is starting to appear medium-high heat. Cook until
lengthwise at the farm stands. the liquid is reduced by one-third,
½ teaspoon flaky sea salt 7-10 minutes.
· Boiling water Make 45-degree diagonal cuts
Generous 3 cups (25 fl oz/750 mi) through the halved kon'!J'akuto To serve, scoop 2h cup (150 mi)
Japanese Chicken Broth (page 160) create 1½-inch (4 cm) sashimi-like or so of rice into each of 4 donburi
• I tablespoon soy sauce slices (sogigiri). Drop into a medium [deep soup bowls) and ladle the
• ½ recipe Japanese Rice (page 291), bowl and massage with the flaky sea kon'!Yakuand soup over the rice.
for serving salt. Pour boiling water over the Garnish with the grated ginger and
½ tablespoon finely grated fresh ginger kon19akupieces to cover , then drain. chopped mitsuba. Serve hot.
I handful mitsuba leaves ,
coarsely chopped
SHIRUMONO - SOUPS
"RACCOON DOG" SOUP
Preparation time: 15 minutes The raccoon dog is a beloved rotate it (sasagaki;see page 446), like
Cooking time, IO minutes creature whose statue stands in sharpening the end of a stick. Bring
Serves, 6 front of restaurants for good the pot of soup to a simmer over
luck. Since eating these animals medium-high heat and stir in the
2 (6-inch/15 cm) squares konbu is no longer in fashion, kon191aku grated daikon. Cook for 5 minutes
• 9 oz (250 g) gray konnyaku, torn into (also known as devil's tongue)- over medium-low heat. Drop in
bite-size pieces gelatinous blocks made from a the greens, stir until wilted, and
· Boiling water zero-calorie corm-now replaces remove from the heat. Measure
7 oz (200 g) burdock root , scrubbed raccoon dog in this traditional both misosinto a large ladle and dip
• 4 tablespoons grated daikon soup. If turnip greens are not it into the soup to capture some
5 1/+ oz (150 g) turnip or mustard available, substitute mustard broth. Stir the broth into the miso
greens, cut crosswise into 11/2- inch greens. in the ladle to loosen the paste ,
(4 cm) pieces then dunk back into the soup and
• 2 tablespoons inaka miso In a medium pot , combine the stir to emulsify and serve hot with
• 2 tablespoons soybean miso konbu and 11/, quarts (42 fl oz/ a sprinkling of shichimitogarashi.
Shichimi togarashi [seven -s pice 1.25 liters) cold water and bring
powder] or freshly ground black pepper , to a near boil. Remove the pot
for garnish from the heat. Pluck the konbu out
with a pair of tongs and cut into
thin strips. Add the konbu back to
the pot of dashi.
Set the kon191aku

pieces in a wire-
mesh sieve and pour a steady
stream of boiling water over them
for IO seconds. Add it to the pot
of dashi and place the pot over
medium-low heat.
With your nondominant hand,
hold the burdock above the pot of
dashi and use a sharp knife to shave
thin slices off the end of it as you
SHIRUMONO - SOUPS
FISH DUMPLING SOUP
WITH MISO
Preparation time: 20 minutes A bit like aJapanese-style quenelle, amounts of the fish paste into
Cooking time: 15 minutes shinjoare poached fish or seafood rounded balls . Drop the fish balls
Serves: 6 "balls" (for want of a better word), into the boiling water as they are
but can be formed into spheres , formed. Cook at a lively simmer ,
6 oz (175 g) skinless white fish fillet obelisks, or small patties. skimming out the balls as they bob
2 tablespoons unbleached pastry flour to the surface, about 3 minutes.
• l tablespoon potato starch Cut the fish fillet into ½-inch
1
/+ teaspoon fine sea salt (12 mm) pieces and pound in a In a medium pot, bring the dashito
• l tablespoon sake suribachi[grinding bowl) or pulse a simmer over high heat. Drop in
2 medium egg whites in a food processor until a smooth the shiitakeslices and scallion pieces
5 cups (40 fl oz / 1.2 liters) Katsuobushi paste has formed . In a small bowl, and cook for 3 minutes over low
Dashi (page 156) whisk together the flour, potato heat. Whisk a small ladle of broth
4 shiitake, stems discarded and caps cut starch, and salt. In another small into the misoto loosen the paste .
into '/•-inch (6 mm) slices bowl , whisk together the sakeand Scrape the diluted misointo the
l thin negi or 2 thick scallions (spring egg whites . Add the wet and dry soup, add the fish balls, and serve
onions) , sliced diagonally into 2-inch ingredients alternately to the fish immediately. Garnish with the
(5 cm) pieces paste by pounding or processing mitsubaleaves, if using.
• 6 tablespoons brown rice miso or them until incorporated into
barley miso a stiff paste.
• l small handful mitsuba leaves , roughly
torn (optional) Fill a medium saucepan three -
quarters of the way up with cold
water and bring to a boil over high
heat. Dip two small spoons into
cold water and fashion teaspoon
GARLIC CHIVE SOUP
Preparation time : 15 minutes Garlic chives and eggs are a classic In a small bowl, beat the eggs and
Cooking time: 5-7 minutes pairing, the addition of cod, how- the garlic chives with a fork or
Serves: 6 ever, lends a note of richness. This chopsticks. Slide the cod into the
is clearly a restorative , delicious, simmering broth and return to a
5 oz (150 g) skinless cod fillet, cut into soup. Use eight whole garlic chives, boil. Give the eggs a quick whisk
'/•-inch (2 cm) cubes not eight garlic chive leaves. to re-emulsify and swirl into the
• Boiling water soup . Adjust to a low simmer and
4 cups (32 fl oz/r liter) Kon bu Dashi Place the cod pieces in a wire-mesh cook until the eggs are just set , but
(page 156) sieve and pour a steady stream of still runny in places, another 1-2
l teaspoon fine sea salt boiling water over them for minutes . Grind black pepper over
• l teaspoon usukuchi shoyu IO seconds to remove any residual the top and serve by ladling into
· 2 tablespoons sake smells. small bowls or over a bowl of rice.
· 2 eggs, at room temperature
8 garlic chives , cut crosswise into In a medium saucepan, combine [Qj p.175
%-inch (1 cm) lengths the dashi, salt , usukuchish'!J'u
, and
½ teaspoon freshly ground sake and bring to a simmer over
black pepper medium heat.
• Japanese Rice (optional; page 291)

HERRING AND
CHRYSANTHEMUM SOUP
Preparation time, 15 minutes The knotted herring fillets make In a medium saucepan, combine
Cooking time, IO minutes for an attractive presentation. If the fish broth and shiitakeand bring
Serves, 6 you are unable to source edible to a bare simmer over medium
chrysanthemum leaves, you can heat. Place an otoshibuta[drop lid]
3 fresh herring (11/, lb / 600 g), substitute spinach. or piece of parchment on top of the
cleaned and filleted surface of the soup and cook until
¼ teaspoon flaky sea salt Halve each herring fillet lengthwise the shiitakeare soft , about 5 minutes .
• 6 shiitake , stems discarded to make 12 strips, rinse briefly in
• ½ teaspoon soy sauce cold water, and pat dry. Tie the Prepare 6 small soup bowls and
• 6 stalks shungiku [edible fillets into loose single knots and place 2 herring knots, a piece of
chrysanthemum greens] sprinkle with the salt. Fill a medium yu zu zest , and a shiitokecap in each
Clear Fish Broth (page 160) pot three-quarters of the way up one. Drop the greens into the
6 strips (¼ inch / 6 mm wide) yuzu with water and bring to a boil barely simmering broth and cook
or Meyer lemon zest over high heat. Poach the knotted until wilted. Divide the greens
fillets over medium-low heat for among the bowls, taste the soup for
2 minutes, then remove with added salt or a dash of soy sauce,
a slotted spoon to a small bowl. and ladle into the bowls. Serve
immediately.
Slice a shallow V-cut cross (hanagiri;
see page 446) in the tops of the
shiitake. Drop into a small, shallow
bowl , sprinkle with the soy sauce,
and rub the soy sauce over the
shiitaketo distribute. Tear the
chrysanthemum leaves from the
stems and slice crosswise into
2-inch (5 cm) pieces.
JAPANESE EGG DROP SOUP
Preparation time: IO minutes Adding beaten eggs to soup them from sinking. Cook at a bare
Cooking time, IO minutes increases its richness for a gorgeous simmer for 2 minutes, then ladle
Serves , 4 light meal. into 4 donburi [deep soup bowls].
Squeeze the ginger to add a few
• 4 cups (32 fl oz/r liter) Japanese In a medium pot, bring the chicken drops of ginger juice to each bowl
Chicken Broth (page 160) broth to a simmer over medium- and garnish with the mitsuba.
I teaspoon flaky sea salt high heat. Stir in the salt, sake, Serve hot.
• I tablespoon sake and soy sauce and adjust the heat
I tablespoon soy sauce to low . Whisk the eggs until frothy [Qj p.177
2 eggs, at room temperature and spoon gently onto the surface
2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger of the soup, endeavoring to keep
I small handful mitsuba leaves,
roughly chopped
SHIRUMONO - SOUPS
SOYBEAN SOUP
Preparation time: 20 minutes , plus Using soy milk as the base for this forms a smooth paste . Scrape into
overnight soaking soybean so up makes it extra rich a medium saucepan and whisk in
Cooking time: I hour with pr o tein . Double the recipe the soy milk and chicken broth .
Serve s: 6 and freeze for an instant dinne r Bring to a simmer , keeping it warm
when you have no time to cook . until ready to serve , but taking care
5 oz (15 o g) dried soybeans not to scorch the bottom .
I la rge potato (7 oz/200 g) , cut into Soak th e soybeans overnight in a
medium cubes generous amount of water. Drain. In a large frying pan , heat the olive
I large stalk celery, roughly diced Place the beans in a heavy pot and oil over medium-high heat. Add
· I t eas poon flaky sea salt add cold water to cover by about 4 th e cubed baguette and fry in the
I cup (8 fl oz/250 ml) soy milk inches (ro cm) . Bring to a simmer oil un t il golden brown , about
Generous 2 cup s (17 fl oz/500 ml) and cook until soft, and the beans 3 minutes.
Japane se Chicken Broth (page 160) can be easily squished between two
2 tablespoons ext ra - virgin olive oil fingers , about 45 minute s. Add the To serve, ladle the soup into large ,
I cup (r¾ oz/ 50 g) cubed (¼ in ch / potato and celery during th e last donburi [deep soup bowls] and
6 mm) baguette 15 minutes of cooking. sprinkle with chopped pars ley and
I small handful par sley, chopped a scattering of croutons.
In batch es, pulse the bean s, potato ,
and celery in a food processor [Qj p .179
or blend er with the salt and the
simmering liquid until the mixture
PORK AND MUSTARD

GREENS SOUP WITH MISO
Preparation time: 15 minutes Flavoring this casual soupy stew with is no longer pink and the komatsuna
Cooking time: IO minutes making
miso gives it a hearty profile, leaves have wilted, I-2 more
Serves, 6 it suitable for a light dinner. minutes . (Discard the konbu.) Add
the loosened miso to the soup and
½ lb (225 g) thinly sliced pork Massage the pork lightly with the serve immediately in large , donburi
shoulder, cut crosswise into ¾--inch salt. In a pot , combine the konbu [deep soup bowls].
(2 cm) pieces and 5 cups (40 fl oz/ r.2 liter s)
· I teaspoon flaky sea salt water and bring to a boil. Once
2 piece s (6 inches/r5 cm) konbu the water has reached a boil , drop
4 thin neg i or 6 fat scallions (spring in the negi and cook until soft ,
onion) , cut crosswise into 2 - inch 3-5 minutes . Whisk a small ladle
(5 cm) pieces of soup into the misoto loosen. Stir
• 4 table sp oons barley miso th e pork , ginger, and komatsunainto
¾-inc h (2 cm) piece fresh ginger, the soup and simmer until the pork
peeled and grated
6½ oz (185 g) komatsuna Uapanese
mu stard greens) or tender mustard
greens , cut crosswise into 2-inch
(5 cm) piece s
SHIRUMONO - SOUPS
COLD PREVENTION SOUP
Preparation time: 15 minutes This textured chicken broth with Add back into the pot of soup and
Cooking time: 15 minutes tofu and ham has restorative powers simmer for about 2 more minutes
Makes: 2 quarts (64 fl oz/2 liters) when you feel like you're coming to thicken. Throw in the parsley
down with a cold or the flu . Reheat and serve hot with a fresh grind
1½ quarts (48 fl oz/1.5 liters) Japanese leftovers the following day for of black pepper .
Chicken Broth (page 160) lunch or a light supper.
• 6 tablespoons sake @ p.181
• I teaspoon flaky sea salt In a medium pot, heat the chicken
I (10½ oz/300 g) momendofu or broth and sakeand season with
Japane se-sty le sof t block tofu, smashed the salt. Slide in the smashed
by hand tofu, ham, and negiand bring
5 oz (150 g) mild h am, cut into %-inch to a simmer. Cook over medium-
(I cm) cubes low heat to soften the negi, about
I medium negi or 3 fat scallion (spring 2 minutes. Measure the kud,;u
onions), cut diagonally into ¼-inch powder into a small bowl, and
( 6 mm) slices whisk in a ladle of soup to emulsify.
• 4 tablespoons well crus hed
kudzu powder
• 4 tablespoons coarsely chopped parsley,
mitsuba, or seri Oapan ese wild parsley]
· Freshly ground black pepper
GRATED DAIKON AND

MUSHROOM SOUP
Preparation time: IO minutes This is a quick, rustic miso soup, In medium saucepan , bring the
Cooking time: IO minutes comforting in the late fall when the dashito a simmer over medium-
Serves: 4-6 weather begins to cool. high. Spoon the miso into a soup
ladle, ca tch up a bit of the dashi,
2-inch (5 cm) piece daikon , scrubbed Grate the daikonon an oroshigane and whisk. Add to the soup along
• 3 oz (85 g) shimeji 0 apanese grating plate]. Squeeze with the mushrooms and the grated
3 oz (85 g) enoki mushrooms out the excess liquid in your fist daikon. Once the soup has returned
I tablespoon canola (rapeseed) oil and drop into a small bowl. to a simmer, strew in the chopped
• I pinch of flaky sea salt asalsuki,remove from the heat, and
Generous 3 3/, cups (30 fl oz/900 mi) Tear the shimeji into single stems. serve immediately.
Katsuobushi Dashi (page 156) Cut the enoki in half crosswise. In
· 4 tablespoons barley miso a small frying pan, heat the oil
2 teaspoons chopped asatsuki O apanese over medium-low heat. Add the
shallot] or scallion (spring onion) mushrooms and salt and stir - fry
bottoms until soft, 2-3 minutes.

GINGER PORK AND
MUSTARD GREENS SOUP
Preparation time, IO minutes Pork and mustard greens are iconic boil over high heat and slide in the
Co'?king time: 5 minutes in the American South, but are just pork pieces , komatsuna,and ginger
Serves : 6 as delicious prepared withjapanese juice. Cook until the komatsunahas
flavors . This soup has a clarity softened and the pork is no longer
½ lb (225 g) pork shoulder, fat from the konbu base and the delicate pink, I-2 minutes. Pluck out the
removed, thinly sliced and cut crosswise ginger flavoring . konbupieces and discard. Ladle
into ¾-inch (2 cm) pieces the soup into 6 bowls , sprinkle
• 2 tablespoons usukuchi shoyu Place the pork in a small bowl and with the black pepper , and serve
11/•-inch (3 cm) piece fresh ginger, massage in the usukuchish'!Y"· Squeeze immediately.
peeled and grated the grated ginger into a small bowl
6-inch (15 cm) piece konbu to extract the juice.
• l teaspoon flaky sea salt
6 1/2 oz (185 g) komatsuna (Japanese In a heavy medium pot or donabe
mustard) or mustard, cut crosswise into [flameproof earthenware casserole],
2-inch (5 cm) pieces combine the konbu, salt, and 6½
1
/2 teaspoon freshly ground cups (1. 5 liters) water. Bring to a
black pepper
TARO ROOT COUNTRY SOUP
Preparation time: 35 minutes The texture neba-neba, which can be IO seconds . Cut the usuageand tofu
Cooking time: 15 minutes translated as "sticky" in English , into ¾-inch (2 cm) squares .
Serves: 6 is prized injapanese food. Taro
root and nagaimo are two of those Pour the dashi into a large heavy
10 1/2 oz (300 g) taro roots, peeled naturally viscous foods and, when pot and set over high heat. Slide
5 1/+ oz (150 g) naga imo [mountain simmered in a soup, soften to an in the burdock , carrot, daikon, and
yaml, peeled appealing creamy texture. Wear kon'!Yaku. After the dashicomes to a
l medium carrot, scrubbed rubber gloves when peeling and boil , stir in the taro, nagaimo, tofu ,
• 8 oz (225 g) daikon, scrubbed cutting nagaimo, or wash your hands shiitake,shimeji,enoki, usuage, and negi.
5 1/+ oz (150 g) burdock root, scrubbed and forearms immediately with Adjust the heat and cook at a lively
• 9 oz (250 g) konnyaku, torn into hot water and soap after handling . simmer until the vegetables and
bite-size pieces Prepare this soup in the late mushrooms have softened , 10-15
2 usuage [deep-fried tofu pouches], autumn when root vegetables are minutes. Add the komatsunaand seri
halved lengthwise starting to appear and mushrooms in the last 2 minutes of cooking.
• Boiling water are still in their peak season. Remove from the heat. Measure
I (10½ oz/3 00 g) momendofu or the miso into a large ladle . Dip the
Japanese-style soft block tofu Cut the taro and nagaimo into ladle into the soup to fill with dashi.
3
5 cups (40.5 fl oz/1.2 liters) Konbu /+-inch (2 cm) triangular chunks Whisk the miso and dashitogether in
Dashi (page 156) (rangiri; see page 446). Quarter the the ladle , stir into the soup, and
6 medium shiitake (or 3 large, halved), carrot and daikonlengthwise. Slice serve in large , donburi [deep soup
stems discarded into ¼-inch (6 mm) quarter - bowls] as a warming supper.
13/• oz (50 g) shimeji, broken apart rounds. With your nondominant
1¾ oz (50 g) enoki mushrooms , halved hand, hold the burdock above the
• I large negi or 4 fat scallions (spring cutting board and use a sharp knife
3
onions) , cut crosswise into /4-inch to shave thin slices off the end of
( 2 cm) pieces it as you rotate it (sasagaki;see page
• 5'/• oz (150 g) komatsuna Uapanese 446), like sharpening the end of
mustard greens], cut crosswise into a stick. Drop the kon'!J'akuinto a
r'/ +- inch (3 cm) pieces wire-mesh sieve and the usuageinto
I handful seri U apanese wild parsley], another. Pour a steady stream of
cut crosswise into 11/+-inch (3 cm) pieces boiling water over each sieve for
• 6 tablespoons inaka miso
SHIRUMONO - SOUPS
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" " " " " " " " ,, " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " "
" " " " " " " " " " " " ,, " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " "
" " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " "
" " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " "
" " " " ,, " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " ,, " " " " " "
" " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " "
" ,, " " " ,, " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " ,, "
" " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " "
" " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " "
" " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " "
" " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " ,, " " " " " "
" " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " "
" " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " ,,
mushimono
STEAMED
MUSHIMONO - STEAMED
Steaming seems to have lost favor in Western cooking these

last few decades, but the Japanese commonly cook many
kinds of food in a steamer: from glutinous rice to vegetables
and fish and fowl to savory custards. The benefit of steaming
is that you have more control over what you are cooking
and can cook it slowly in an ambient environment where
steam and heat interact. Some of the dishes in this chapter
are pan-steamed in a small amount of liquid, a cooking
technique that is also called steaming inJapan. Steaming
vegetables cooks them without sogginess, unlike boiling .
There are quite a few recipes (page 187, 203, and 204)
for layered napa cabbage (Chinese leaf)-a dish I had never
sampled before writing this book. Steaming napa cabbage
breaks down its fibers, rendering the leaves juicy and silky.
And layered napa cabbage dishes are a bit like deconstructed
cabbage rolls-the ultimate comfort food, but with less work.
Chawan mushi [steamed custards] are beloved in Japan and
several versions are included in this book, including one
with soy milk. The only caveat with steamed custards is to
keep the heat under control, otherwise you risk curdling.
Cooking longer over lower heat is a safer bet if you have
any doubts.
Steaming fish and poultry is a gentle cooking method
that keeps the meat moist, especially if it is splashed with sake
before steaming. A little sea salt and some aromatics, such
as ginger and negi Uapanese leek], will infuse the protein
with a lovely, subtle flavor.
Since historically Japanese did not have ovens, steaming
took the place of baking for such dishes as the manju [buns]
and apple bread found in the chapter on kanmi [sweets,
page 374].
To make the dishes in this chapter, you will need some
sort of steaming device. Bamboo steamers are inexpensive
and easily found online. If possible, find a steamer that can
accommodate an 8-inch (20 cm) square pan, since many
recipes in this book call for that size of pan for steaming
various dishes. Other than a bamboo steamer, a pasta pot for
the water bath and a perforated pasta insert for the steamer
basket also works well as a jerry- rigged steamer. If no lid is
available, heavy-duty foil will do the trick.
186 ~[_.!Jo/J MUSHIMONO - STEAMED

NAPA CABBAGE AND
SPINACH ROLLS
Preparation time: 35 minutes These are versatile little rolls . Serve refresh under cold, running water
Cooki ng time : 5 minutes as is napped with soy sauce, por,zu, until cool to the touch . Align the
Mak es: 2 rolls or any Japanese dressing of your stem ends together and, gras ping
choice. Or use in aJapanese soup a quarter of the spinach at a tim e,
4 large napa cabbage or nobe [one - pot dish]. squeeze down the leaves to remove
( Chinese leaO leaves excess water.
· 7 oz (200 g) spinach Bring a medium pot of water to
a boil over high heat. Stack the Set out a couple of baking sheets as
cabbage leaves and lower the stem your workspace and patch together
ends into the water for about two 7-inch (17 .5 cm) squares of
l minute , then submerge the cabbage lea ves , with the leaves all
whole leaves in the boiling water po sitioned horizontally. Split
and coo k for 30 more secon ds. the spinach clumps in half , and
Scoop the leaves out and slide rearrange with half of the stems
them into a colander to drain in at one end and half at the other.
the kitchen sink . Drape the spinach in a neat line
horizontally across the cabbage
Grasp the whole bunch of spinach square, about ¾ - inch (2 cm) up
between two hands and lower from the bottom. Roll the cabbage
the stems into the boiling wat er. up into a tight roll . Squeeze gently ,
Cook the stems for 30 seconds but firmly in a clean tea towel ,
to l minute , depending on how and let rest for 15 minutes before
thick they are . Drop the leaves into cutting each roll crosswise into
th e water and blanch for 30 more 6 pieces.
seconds. Scoop out with a sieve and
LAYERED NAPA CABBAGE

AND SPINACH
Pr e paration time: 30 minute s In stead of rolling the spinach in submerge the whole leave s for
Cooking time : 5 minutes the n apa cabbage ( Chinese le aO , another 30 seconds . Scoop out
Makes: 12 pieces as in the previous recipe, her e the with a wir e- mesh sieve and plunge
cabbage and spinach are layere d into the cold water to refre sh . Run
8 large leaves napa cabbage and cut into pieces-which can b e ext ra cold water , if needed .
( Chinese leaf) popped into nabe dishes such as
14 oz (400 g) spinach Salmon Nabe (page 356). Divid e the napa cabbage into
4 piles equal in surface area, and
Bring a medium pot of water to the spinach into 3 piles. Smooth a
a boil over high heat. U sing tongs, layer of napa cabbage evenly across
lower the napa cabbag e (Chinese the bottom of an 8-inch (20 cm)
lea0 stem ends into the water and square pan with removable bottom.
cook for l minute , then su bmerge Do the same with a layer of spinach .
the leaves in the boiling water Repeat layering the cabbage and
and cook for 30 seconds. Place the spinach , ending with the cabbage .
leave s in a wire-mesh sieve Set the pan in the sink and pr ess
to drain. down firmly with your palms to
remove excess liquid. Let sit for
Se t up a bowl of cold water . Hold 15 minutes before cutting into
the spinach stems in the boiling 12 pieces.
water for 30 seconds, then
187 MUSHIMONO - STEAMED

MISO-STUFFED
STEAMED TURNIPS
Preparation tim e, 15 minutes Miso and turnips pair well together a coarse sieve (or pulse in a food
Cooking time , 15 to 20 min utes because of their complementary processor) and divide the smashed
Serves, 6 flavors and textures. Sub stituting turnip between two small bowls .
inaka miso [country-style miso] for Fold half of the miso into one bowl
2 teaspoons gold sesame seeds the white miso will give you an of smashed turnip and half into
6 medium turnips (1½ lb /685 g) , earthier result . Also, the leftovers the other. Mash theyuzu peel into
scrubbed and tops removed leaving are delicious , co ld or warm . one bowl and the ground sesame
3
/+ inch (2 cm) of stem seeds and sesame oil into the
• 4 tablespoons white or inaka miso In a small , dry frying pan , toast other. Spoon theyuzu miso into
2 teaspoons finely slivered yuzu peel the sesame seeds over medium heat 3 of the scooped-out turnips and
• 'I+ teaspoon gold sesame oil until fragrant, shaking the pan the sesame miso into the remaining
and lifting off the heat if needed turnips. Cover with the tops of the
to avoid scorching. Slide into a turnips.
suribachi[grinding bowl) or spice
grinder and grind to a coar se Set up a steamer and bring the
powder. water to a boil. Arrange the stuffed
turn ips in the steamer basket ,
Turn the turnips on their sides cover , and steam until softened
and slice off the tops about one - but not mushy when poked with
quarter of the way down from a bamboo skewer, 15-18 minutes.
the top to form a lid (try to keep Serve warm on individual ceramic
track of which top goes with which plates as a large appetizer .
turnip bottom). Scoop out the
inside of the turnip bottom to @ p.189
form a receptacle for stuffing. Push
the scooped out turnip through
MISO-FLAVORED ONION
Preparation time: IO minutes Finding a well grown onion is the misowill burn. Cover the pot
Cooking time, 15 minutes wor:th the effort for this recipe. and steam the onions over low
Serves, 4-6, as a sma ll bite The best way to tell the difference heat until they have released their
between a large-scale grown onion juices and have softened , but still
14 oz (400 g) small onions, halved and and a small , responsible farmer - have a pleasant crunch, about 15
thinly slice d grown onion is to taste them raw. minutes. (Take care not to scorch
2 tablespoons barley miso If the onion is unplea santly hot th e bottom . Using a flame retarder
Shic himi togarashi [seven-spice or insistent, then maybe it is not could be advantageous.)
powder). optional what you want to use in cooking
either . Mild , sweet onions yield Stir the miso into the softened
mild , sweet results . Negi (Japanese onions and scrape into a bowl
leeks , an allium more similar to fat for serving. Sprinkle with shichimi
scallions than Western leeks) sliced togarashi,if you like .
into thin rounds can be substituted
for the onion. This dish works well
as a salty bite before dinner or
a condiment to a bowl of rice.
Strew the sliced onions in the

bottom of a heavy medium pot.
Dollop the miso on top of the
onions but do not mix , otherwise

SOY MILK CHAWAN MUSH!
Preparation time: 20 minutes Using the best soy milk is extremely Set up a steamer and bring the
Cooking time, 20 minutes important for this delicate dish so wat,;~ to a boil. Arrange the chawan
Serves, 6 be sure to use one without additives mushiin the steamer basket , cover,
or make homemade soy milk, and steam for 15 minutes. Uncover ,
teaspoon fine sea salt
I following the method in the recipe drop 1-2 pieces of mitsubaon top of
2 1/2 cups (20 fl oz/600 ml) best-quality for Tofu (page 56). each chawanmushi, replace the lids,
or homemade soy milk (see page 56) re-cover the steamer and steam
• 2 eggs, beaten, at room temperature In a large glass measuring cup (jug) until set, about 5 more minutes.
• ½ cup (4 fl oz/125 ml) Konbu Dashi with a spout, stir together the salt ,
(page 156) soy milk, eggs, and dashi. Divide the [Q'I p.191
· 3 oz (75 g) sasami [chicken tenders] or chicken, ginkgo nuts, shimeji, and
boneless, skinless chicken breast, cut into kamabokoamong six 7 fl oz (200 ml)
1
/2-inch (1 cm) cubes chawanmushior handleless teacups
6 ginkgo nuts, shelled and skinned (preferably with lids) . Pour 1/2 cup
(see Note, page 202) (4 fl oz/120 ml) of the soy milk-
I small handful shimeji, torn apart konbudashimixture into each cup ,
by hand cover with the lid (or plastic wrap
6 slices ('/e inch/3 mm) kamaboko [clingfilm]).
[fish cake]. halved crosswise, optional
I small handful mitsuba , cut crosswise
into ¾-inch (2 cm) pieces
STEAMED EGG CUSTARD POTS
Preparation time: 15 minutes These savory egg custard pots take In a bowl, whisk the eggs until well
Cooking time, 30 minutes more planning than actual work. emulsified , then slowly whisk in
Serves: 6 Prepare these when you have dashi the dashiand usukuchish'!)'u,Pour the
and scallops on hand for another egg mixture through a wire-mesh
I small lily bulb (optional), brown parts . dish since you only need a small sieve into a large glass measuring
pared off , separated into 12 "petals" amount for this recipe. cup (jug) with a spout. Pour the
• ½ teaspoon fine sea salt mixture into the cups. Cover the
3 large sea scallops, quartered, or Bring a small saucepan of water to a cups with their lids (or plastic wrap
6 small scallops , halved boil. Rub the lily bulb "petals" with [clingfilm]).
1
• I tablespoon sake /+ teaspoon of the fine sea salt
5 oz (150 g) momendofu or Japanese- and blanch in the boiling water for Set up a steamer and bring the
style soft block tofu, cut into 6 pieces 3 minutes. water to a boil. Arrange the cups
3 large shiitake , stems discarded and in the steamer basket, cover, and
caps quartered Toss the scallop pieces with the sake steam over medium-high heat for
I small handful mitsuba leaves, or and remaining 'I•teaspoon of the about 25 minutes. Serve warm.
3 spinach leaves , cut crosswise into fine salt . Put I piece each of tofu in
I'/• -inch (3 cm) pieces the bottom of six 7 fl oz (200 ml)
• 3 eggs, at room temperature chawanmushior handleless teacups
Generous 1¾ cups (15 fl oz/ 450 ml) with lids. Alternating between the
Katsuobushi Dashi (page 156), at room ingredients, drop the lily "petals,"
temperature scallops , shiitake, and mitsubainto
I teaspoon usukuchi shoyu, or each cup so that they are evenly
½ teaspoon fine sea salt distributed.

SAVORY EGG CUSTARD POTS
Preparation time: 20 minutes Considering the moving parts Divide the shiitake, chicken , shrimp ,
Cooking time: 30 minutes to this version of chawanmushi, kamaboko,ginkgonuts, and mitsuba
Serves: 4 you might want to double the (reserving a few of the nicest leaves
recipe when friends are coming for garnish) among four
1% cups (13 fl oz/ 400 ml) Katsuobushi for dinner. 7 fl oz (200 ml) chawanmushi
Dashi (page 156) or handleless teacups (preferably
2 teaspoons usukuchi shoyu In a saucepan, stir the dashi, usukuchi with lids). Give the egg mixture one
• I teaspoon mirin sh'!)'u,mirin, and salt over medium- more quick whisk and pour into the
¼ teaspoon fine sea salt low heat until the salt has dissolved. cups , leaving ½ inch (12 mm) free
2 eggs, at room temperature Cool. In a large glass measuring at the top to allow for expansion.
3 small sh ii take, stems discarded cup ~ug) with a spout, whisk the Place the lids on the cups (or cover
3 1/2 oz (100 g) boneless, skinless eggs , without letting them foam with plastic wrap [clingfilm]) .
chicken breast up , and slowly whisk in the cooled ,
2 tablespoons soy sauce flavored dashi. Set up a steamer and bring the
6 shrimp (prawns), peeled and water to a boil. Arrange the cups
deveined In a small pot of salted boiling in the steamer basket, cover, and
4 slices (' /• inch / 6 mm) kamaboko [fish water , blanch the shiitakefor steam for 20-25 minutes. Sprinkle
cake). halved crosswise 30 seconds. Pat the caps dry in with the yu-tti zest, a few mitsuba
12 ginkgo nuts , shelled and skinned a clean tea towel, and quarter. leaves , and serve hot.
• I small handful mitsuba, sliced Cut the chicken on the bias into
crosswise into %-inch (2 cm) pieces '/•-inch (6 mm) wide pieces. Toss [Qj p.193
• ½ teaspoon finely slivered yuzu zest with the soy sauce, then blot dry
with absorbent paper towels.
UDO AND CHICKEN STEAMED

WITH SOUR PLUMS
Preparation time: 15 minutes Udo is a mountain vegetable similar If it doesn't, add in a little more
Cooking time: 5 minutes in texture to celery but with a sake. Add the umeboshi. Bring to
Serves: 6 unique bitter, earthy flavor. Seek a boil over high heat, adjust to a
it out if possible. simmer , and cook for 2-3 minutes.
2% oz (75 g) udo or celery Immediately remove the saucepan
II oz (300 g) boneless , skinless Peel the udo and cut lengthwise from the heat.
chicken breast into '/• - inch (6 mm) slices. Cut
6 tablespoons Katsuobushi Dashi those slices crosswise into 1 1/+-inch Let cool completely in the pan
(page 156) (3 cm) pieces . If substituting with before serving.
3 tablespoons sake celery , slice crosswise at a diagonal
½ tablespoon soy sauce into '/• - inch (6 mm) pieces. Cut
• ½ tablespoon mirin the chicken into bite-size pieces by
3 small umeboshi [salted sour plum], slicing into the chicken meat with
pitted and torn into your knife at a 45-degree angle
small pieces (sogigiri, see page).
In a medium saucepan , combine

the chicken pieces and udo and
measure in the dashi, sake, soy sauce,
and mirin. The liquid should come
about one-third of the way up
the sides of the chicken and udo.

CHRYSANTHEMUM PETAL-
STEAMED FISH BALLS
Preparation time: 30 minutes Bright yellow from the Set up a steamer and bring the
Cooking time: 15 minutes chrysanthemum flowers, these water to a boil. Measure the oil
Makes: 12 small balls fish balls are stunning and simple onto a plate, roll the balls gently in
to make . Serve as a first course. the oil, and place the plate in the
IO oz (300 g) white fish fillet (such as steamer basket. Cover and steam
snapper, flounder , halibut, or swordfish) Dice the fish and pound to a paste until set, 12-15 minutes.
I small egg white, at room temperature in a suribachi[grinding bowl] or
• I tablespoon sake food processor. Mash in the egg In a small saucepan, heat the dashi,
tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons
I white, sake, I tablespoon of the salt, and remaining pinch of black
potato starch potato starch, and I pinch of black pepper. In a small bowl, dissolve
2 pinches of freshly ground pepper. Dampen your palms with the remaining 2 teaspoons potato
black pepper cold water, divide the fish paste starch in 2 tablespoons water. Stir
1¾ oz (50 g) chrysanthemum flowers, into 12 portions , and roll into the potato starch slurry into the
about 12 small balls . Line the balls up on dashiand cook over low heat until
I teaspoon canola (rapeseed) oil a piece of parchment paper. Strew glossy, and slightly thickened ,
% cup (5 fl oz/r50 ml) Katsuobushi the chrysanthemum flowers across 1-2 minutes .
Dashi (page 156) the bottom of a shallow pan. Drop
¼ teaspoon fine sea salt one fish ball at a time in the pan To serve, arrange a few shungiku
• I small handful shungiku and roll it around by tilting the pan artfully on a pretty dinner plate ,
[chrysanthemum leaves], for garnish so that the petals have completely spoon the fish balls onto the plate
covered the surface of the fish balls in one layer , and nap with the
and are well adhered. thickened dashi. Serve hot.
[Q] p .195
STEAMED ONIONS WITH BACON
Preparation time : 15 minutes Japanese bacon is thinly sliced, Spoon onto individual bowls of hot
Cooking time: 15 minutes unsmoked, and does not contain rice with a squeeze of fresh lemon
Serves : 6 much fat. For this method, try juice. Keeps well as a leftover,
to find a similar style of bacon. though keep the layers intact for
5 oz (150 g) sliced unsmoked bacon, a neat presentation. Reheat before
cut crosswise into pieces I½ inches Arrange half of the bacon across serving .
(4 cm) wide the surface of a large frying pan.
I medium onion, halved and thinly Scatter the onion slices across the
sliced crosswise bacon. Top with the cabbage, then
5 oz (150 g) green cabbage , sliced the enoki, and the other half of
crosswise into 11/+-inch (3 cm) pieces the bacon . Cover and cook over
· 2½ oz (75 g) enoki mushrooms , medium-high heat until the heat
halved crosswise reaches through to cook the top
• Japanese Rice (page 291), for serving pieces of bacon, and the vegetables
•½lemon release some of their juices,
10-15 minutes .

SOUR PLUM-STEAMED COD
Preparation time: 40 minutes Cod, commonly available in Japan, While the cod is steaming, in a
Cooking time: 15 minutes takes well to steaming. The umeboshi dry heavy frying pan, pan-grill the
Serves: 6 [salted sour plum) introduces a negi, covered, over low heat. Keep
bright note to the slightly mild close watch and turn the pieces as
• I lb 2 oz (500 g) cod fillet, skinned quality of this fish, while the you check periodically. Take care
• ½ teaspoon flaky sea salt caramelized negiadds sweetness. not to burn. Transfer to a small
• 4 tablespoons sake plate when softened and slightly
3 umeboshi [salted sour plum]. pitted Cut the cod fillet in half, arrange caramelized, 7-10 minutes.
and finely chopped to a paste, or on a plate that will fit into a steamer
I tablespoon sour plum paste (I0-12 inches/25-30 cm across), Remove the plate with the fish from
• 2 medium negi or 8 fat sca lli ons sprinkle with the salt on both sides, the steamer carefully so as not to
(spring onions), sliced into 2-inch and moisten with the sake. Let sit lose the precious juices. Pour the
(5 cm) pieces for 30 minutes. hot juices into a small saucepan and
I teaspoon soy sauce season with the soy sauce. Whisk in
½ teaspoon potato starch, thinned with Set up the steamer and bring the the potato starch, simmer gently
I tablespoon water water to a boil. Spread a thin layer over low heat for 2 minutes. Pour
of umeboshipaste on the stomach side the sauce back over the fish. Wipe
(as opposed to the skinned side) of the edges and bottom of the plate
the fish and lower the plate into the to clean up any drips or residual
steamer basket. Cover and steam steaming liquid. Strew the negion
over medium heat for IO minutes. the plate and serve.
[Q] p.197
STEAMED MOUNTAIN YAM

WITH NORI
Preparation time: 30 minutes Once steamed, grated nogaimo Set up a steamer and bring the
Cooking time: 20 minutes [mountain yam) sets and becomes water to a boil. Place the foil
Serves: 6-8 almost creamy. The colors and packet in the steamer ba sket, cover,
textures in this dish are lovely. and steam for 5 minutes. Remove
14 oz (400 g) naga imo [mountain the steamer basket but keep the
yam). peeled Finely grate the nogaimo on an water hot.
4 chicken tenders (sasami) or ne Uapanese grating plate) to
oroshiga
I (ro½ oz/300 g) boneless, skinless form a viscous mass. Open the packet and let the
chicken breast chicken cool in its juices for
• I teaspoon flaky sea salt Cut the sasami crosswise into thirds. IO minutes before cutting into
· 2 tablespoons sake (If using chicken breast, cut in %-inch (1.5 cm) cubes. Arrange
Generous r½ cups (4 1/2 oz/r25 g) thirds lengthwise , and then again the half-cooked chicken pieces
edamame pods, boiled for 3 minutes crosswise in thirds.) in an 8 - inch (20 cm) round or
and shelled square pan with the edamame, lily
• I lily bulb, brown parts pared off, Lay a 2-foot (60 cm) piece of foil "peta ls ", and shiitake. Measure
"petals" separated out on your workspace. Place the in the dashi, usukuchish'D'u, the
• 4 shiitake, stems discarded and caps chicken pieces in the middle of remaining ½ teaspoon salt, and
quartered the foil in one layer. Sprinkle I tablespoon sake. Slurp the grated
• % cup (5 fl oz/r50 ml) Konbu Dashi with ½ teaspoon of the salt and nagaimo over the surface. Set in the
(page 156), at room temperature I tablespoon of the sake. Fold the steamer basket, cover, and steam
• I tablespoon usukuchi shoyu foil up to make a tight package for 15 minutes. Strew with nori and
I sheet nori, snipped into fine threads (taking care that the chicken pieces serve as is, or spooned over rice.
• Japanese Rice (page 291), for serving remain in one laye r).
(optional)
MU SHIM ONO - STEAMED

COLD STEAMED CHICKEN
Preparation time: IO minutes Having a couple of cold cooked Set up a steamer and bring the
Cooking time, 20 minutes chicken breasts on hand, to toss water to a boil. Arrange the packets
Serves, 4 into salads or add to dressed in the steamer basket, cover, and
vegetables, turns a side dish into a steam for about 20 minutes .
2 boneless , skinless chicken breasts meal. Steaming with sake means that Remove from the heat to cool.
(8 oz/225 g each) the chicken meat does not dry out,
I teaspoon flaky sea salt making it a useful technique to have Serve the chicken simply , with a
· 2 tablespoons sake in your repertoire . You can serve dressing, In a bowl , whisk together
2 tablespoons rice vinegar the chicken shredded or sliced, the vinegar , mirin, and soy sauce.
• 2 tablespoons mirin depending on your preference. Whisk that mixture slowly into the
2 tablespoons soy sauce mustard powder . Dress the chicken
1/2teaspoon mustard powder Pull off 2 large pieces of foil and and serve immediately.
lay them across your workspace .
Set one chicken breast on each [Qj P- 1 99
piece of foil and salt evenly on
both sides. Sprinkle each breast
with I tablespoon sake and fold the
foil ends up together. Roll down
and scrunch closed to make
a tight package.
STUFFED KABOCHA
Preparation time, 40 minutes Stuffed kabocha (Japanese incorporated. Stuff the mixture
Cooking time, I hour pumpkin) is excellent for a crowd into the kabocha . Press down to
Serves , 6 or even for a small dinner. eliminate air pockets but do not
overwork the meat mixture.
I Set the tofu on a cutting board and
Japanese-style soft block tofu prop a small saucer underneath it Set up a steamer (large enough to
I (3 lb / r.35 kg) medium kabocha to angle the board into the kitchen accommodate the kabocha) and
(Japanese pumpkin) sink (to catch drips). Lay another bring the water to a boil. Place the
2 teaspoons flaky sea salt cutting board on top of the tofu to stuffed kabocha and the lid side
4 small dried shiitake, soaked in boiling press out moisture for 20 minutes. by side in the steamer , cover. and
water for 30 minutes steam until the meat filling is well
I small carrot, scrubbed and Cut the top off the kabocha with set , about I hour.
finely diced a heavy butcher knife by inserting
½ lb (225 g) finely ground (minced) the knife diagonally into the skin In a saucepan, combine the chicken
chicken to cut out a reusable top (like when broth and soy sauce and bring to
I tablespoon mirin carving a pumpkin for Halloween). a simmer over medium-high heat.
1 1/, cup (ro fl oz/300 ml) Japanese Scoop out the seeds and scrape the Scrape in the potato starch mixture
Chicken Broth (page 160) lingering threads out with a spoon. and simmer gently until slightly
· 2 teaspoons soy sauce Massage I teaspoon of the salt into thickened , 2-3 minutes .
I teaspoon potato starch dissolved in the inside flesh of the pumpkin.
I tablespoon water Remove the kabocha from the
Drain the shiitake,discard the stems, steamer and set on platter. Place
and finely dice the caps. Squeeze the the steamed lid on top , pour the
tofu by handfuls to remove any last sauce over the kabocha, and serve
moisture and drop into a medium by slicing into large wedges .
bowl. Add the diced shiitake, carrot,
chicken, remaining I teaspoon
salt, and mirin and mix with saibashi
[cooking chopsticks) until all
of th e ingredient s are evenly
MU SHIM ONO - STEAMED

CHICKEN AND VEGETABLE
STUFFED KABOCHA
Preparation time: I hour The presentation here is stunning Set up a large steamer (one that
Cooking time: I hour because the stuffed kabocha (Japanese can accommodate the kabocha) and
Serves: 6 pumpkin) is steamed whole and bring the water to a boil. Add the
served with a silky sauce studded with kabocha to the steamer basket and
I (ro½ oz / 300 g) momendofu or green peas. steam until the stuffing has set and
Japanese-style soft block tofu the kabocha is cooked through, but
I (3 lb/1.35 kg) medium kabocha Set the tofu on a cutting board and not collapsing , about 60 minutes.
(Japanese pumpkin) prop a small saucer underneath
13/+teaspoons fine sea salt to angle the board into the kitchen In a small bowl , dissolve the
2 ½ tablespoons potato starch sink (to catch drips) . Lay another remaining ½ tablespoon potato
(1% oz/ 50 g) naga imo [mountain yam] cutting board on top of the tofu to starch in 2 tablespoons cold water.
• I small carrot , scrubbed and diced press out moisture for 20 minutes. In a saucepan, combine the dashi,
5 oz (145 g) burdock root, scrubbed soy sauce , and flaky salt and heat
and diced In sert a heavy , sharp knife at a over medium-high heat, stirring
2 medium shiitake caps, diced diagonal into the top flesh around to dissolve the salt. Sprinkle in the
• 5 oz (150 g) finely ground the stem area of the kabocha to cut green peas and the potato starch
(minced) chicken out a 4-inch (ro cm) round lid . slurry and simmer 2-3 minutes
½ tablespoonorganic powdered Scoop out the seeds and scrape any to make a silky, thin glaze for the
chicken or vegetable bouillon lingering threads off the inside of the stuffed kabocha.
1% cups (14 fl oz/ 400 ml) Kon bu kabocha lid. Rub I½ teaspoons of the
Dashi (page 156) fine salt into all surfaces of kabocha Present the steamed kabocha on
½ tablespoon soy sauce cavity. Sprinkle the cavity with an attractive rimmed dinner plate
• ½ teaspoon flaky sea salt 2 tablespoons of the potato starch. with the lid propped up beside it.
• % cup (2½ oz/75 g) green peas, Drizzle the thickened dashiover the
parboiled for 2-3 minutes until soft Drop the pressed tofu into a kabocha so it spills out prettily onto
but not mushy suribachi[grinding bowl] and the plate. Slice into wedges and
emulsify with a surikogi[wooden serve . It holds up very well to the
pestle] using circular, grinding next day, if stored refrigerated.
motions. (Alternatively , smash in
a medium bowl.) Grate the nagaimo
on an oroshiganeUapanese grating
plate] and incorporate into the
tofu with the surikogi.Fold in the
carrot, burdock, shiitake, chicken,
and powdered bouillon. Pack the
mixture into the kabocha, sprinkle
the remaining 'I•teaspoon fine salt
onto the inside of the lid and fit it
back on top of the kabocha.

STEAMED GRATED TURNIP
Preparation time: 30 minutes This classic dish is usually seen as Make the sauce, In a small bowl,
Cooking time, 15 minutes a one - dish meal , but here the small stir a little bit of the dashiinto the
Serves, 6 presentation makes it easier to potato starc h to make a slurry. In
serve . For leftovers, reheat the pots a saucepan, combine the remaining
For the custard, in a steamer and the creamy sauce dashi, usukuchish'?)'u,salt, mirin, and
5¼ oz (150 g) turnips scrubbed and in a small pan over low heat. sakeand heat to a simmer over
finely grated medium heat. Stir in the potato
4 sasami [chicken tenders) or Make the custard, Scrape the grated starch slurry and simmer gently
l (4½ oz/225 g) boneless, skinless turnip into a fine mesh sieve to for I-2 minutes , stirring, until the
chicken breast drain. Slice the chicken tenders sauce is silky smooth but not goopy.
1¾ oz (50 g) awafu [wheat gluten with against the grain into %-inch
millet) or fresh yuba (1.5 cm) cubes. If using awafa, cut To serve, remove the custards from
½ teaspoon flaky sea salt into %-inch (1.5 cm) squares; the steamer and serve hot with the
l small lily bulb, brown spots pared off, if usingyuba , cut crosswise into sauce ladled in , and sprinkled with
"petals" separated %-inch (1. 5 cm) sections. Massage slivered yuzu zest.
12 ginkgo nuts, shelled and skinned the flaky salt into the lily "petals"
(see Note) and ginkgo nuts in a medium bowl. Note, Place the ginkgo nuts in a
2 tablespoons mirin Drizzle in the mirin. medium saucepan , fill with cold
3 small dried shiitake , soaked in boiling water to cover by ¾ inch (2 cm) ,
water for 30 minutes, drained, stems Divide the "petals" and ginkgo nuts add 2 teaspoons salt, and bring
discarded , and caps thinly sliced evenly among six 5 '/• fl oz (150 ml) to a boil over high heat. Boil for
Q eggs, at room temperature chawanmushior handleless teacups . IO minutes. Drain and refresh
Drop some shiitake, chicken, awafu under cold, running water. Rap the
For the sauce: (or yuba) into each of the cups. shells gently with a meat tenderizer
• 1¼ cups (ro fl oz/300 ml) Crack the eggs into a medium bowl to crack them and remove the nuts
Katsuobushi Dashi (page 156) and whisk to emulsify . Whisk in from the shells. Fold the nuts into
• l tablespoon potato starch the drained grated turnip until a clean tea towel and rub off the
l tablespoon usukuchi shoyu incorporated with the egg. Pour papery skin.
½ teaspoon fine sea salt into the cups and place their lids
· ltablespoon mirin on (or cover tightly with foil).
• 2 tablespoons sake
l tablespoon slivered yuzu zest Set up a steamer and bring the
water to a boil. Arrange the custard
cups in the steamer, cover, and
steam over medium-low heat for
15 minutes.
MUSHIMONO - STEAMED
WITH GREEN BEANS
Preparation time: 45 minutes The green beans in this dish give layer of one-third of the leaves.
Cooking time : 25 minutes color and texture, and the generous Brush with some of the potato starch
Serves: 6 portions make it a good candidate slurry. Spread half of the chicken
for a one-dish supper. mixture across the cabbage and top
¾ - inch ( 2 cm) piece fresh ginger, with another layer of cabbage. Brush
grated Squeeze the juice from the grated again with the potato starch slurry,
I teaspoon fine sea salt ginger into a bowl. Stir in the salt, spread in the rest of the chicken,
'I•teaspoon freshly ground pepper, and sake. In a bowl, knead and top with a last layer of cabbage.
black pepper the ginger juice mixture into the Brush with potato starch. Cover
2 t ablespoons sake chicken wit h your hands until well tightly with foil.
IO oz (300 g) finely ground incorporated.
(minced) chicken Line a steamer basket with
12 large napa cabbage Bring a large pot of salted water cheesecloth (to make it eas ier
( Chinese le af) leaves to a boil. Rap the stem ends of the to remove the pan). Set up the
2 tablespoons potato starch di ssolved cabbage leaves with a surigoki[wood en steamer and bring the water to
in 2 tablespoons water pestle] or mallet to soften. Blanch a boil. Place the pan in the
I small carrot, scrubbed and the leaves for 30 seconds in the steamer basket, cover, and steam
finely julienned boiling water. Scoop out with a for 20 minutes.
2 shiitake , stems discarded and caps wire-mesh sieve, shake off excess
thinly sliced water , and blot dry with clean tea Meanwhile , in a saucepan, combine
8 thin green beans, topped towels. Cut the leaves crosswise into the carrot , shiitake,green beans ,
and julienned 8-inch (20 cm) pieces and separate dashi, soy sauce, sake, and mirin
r¼ cups (IO fl oz/300 ml) Katsuobushi into 3 piles. Use the small extra and bring to a simmer. Stir in
Dashi (page 156) pieces for patching in here and the reserved I tablespoon potato
2 tablespoons soy sauce there on the middle layer, but save starch slurry and simmer gently
• I tablespoon sake the larg est pieces for the bottom until glistening and ever so slightly
• I tablespoon mirin and top layers. thickened , another 2-3 minutes.
Cut into 6 portions, spoon the silky
Measure out I tablespoon of the vegetable sauce over the layered
potato starch slurry into a small cabbage, and serve.
bowl and reserve for thickening the
dashi. Line the bottom o f an 8-inch
(20 cm) foil-lined square pan with
a removable bottom with an even

Preparation time: 25 minutes Individual stuffed cabbage rolls are making sure to cover the complete
Cooking time: 30 minutes a bit labor intensive , but you can area , coming up the sides of the
Serves, 6 save time by deconstructing the pan slightly , and evenly distributing
rolls: Just layer the steamed cabbage the stem and leaf parts so the thick
12 large napa cabbage leaves with the meat and get the stems are not all in one area. Cover
( Chinese leaf) leaves same tasty combination of flavors the cabbage leaves with half of
I lb (450 g) finely ground and textures. the meat mixture, top with the 3
(minced) pork whisked eggs and another layer of
2 tablespoons usukuchi shoyu Set up a bamboo steamer in a 4 cabbage leaves . Repeat with the
• I teaspoon fine sea salt pan and bring the water to a boil. remaining meat , the last layer of
4 eggs, at room temperature Divide the napa cabbage ( Chinese cabbage , and the last whisked egg
Generous 3 cups (25 fl oz/750 ml) leaf) leaves into two piles , side by to provide a glossy surface to the
Japanese Chicken Broth (page 160) side, in the steamer basket, cover, cooked dish.
• I teaspoon mirin and steam for 3 minutes. Flip
½ tablespoon potato starch dissolved the leaves and steam for 3 more Cover tightly with foil. Set in
in I tablespoon water minutes. Remove from the heat the steamer , cover , and steam for
and lay the leaves out side by side QO minutes.
on clean tea towels to cool. Pat
dry. (Keep the steamer ready for Meanwhile , in a medium saucepan,
steaming the rest of the dish.) heat the chicken broth, remaining
I tablespoon usukuchish'!J'u,and the
In a bowl, mix together the meat, mirin over medium-high heat. Stir
I tablespoon of the usukuchish'!J'u, the potato starch mixture into the
and the salt with a pair of saibashi broth and simmer for 2-3 minutes
[cooking chopsticks) until the to thicken.
ingredients are well incorporated.
In one bowl , whisk together 3 of After steaming, let the cabbage rest
the eggs. In a separate bowl, whisk for 5 minutes before unmolding.
the remaining egg. Cut into 6 portions and place each
in a shallow bowl. Nap with the hot ,
Line an 8-inch (20 cm) foil- silky chicken broth .
lined square pan with a removable
bottom with 4 of the cabbage leaves ,
MUSHIMONO - STEAMED
SILKY NAPA CABBAGE
LAYERED WITH GROUND MEAT
Preparation time, 40 minutes This version of layered napa of the potato starch and lay the
Cooking time, 35 minutes cabbage ( Chinese leaf) contains remaining 3 leaves across the meat.
Serves, 6 appreciably more meat than the Tuck any errant leaves back inside
other versions. the pan. Cover tightly with foil.
9 large napa cabbage
( Chinese leaO leaves Set up a steamer in a pan and bring Place the pan in the steamer. cover,
I ½ teaspoons flaky sea salt the water to a boil. Stack the napa and steam until the meat has set ,
I medium onion , finely diced cabbage ( Chinese leaf) leaves in the about 30 minutes.
• I medium carrot , scrubbed and steamer basket , cover, and steam
finely diced until the stem ends have softened , In a small saucepan , dissolve
4 medium shiitake , stems discarded and 5-7 minutes. Lay the leaves out , the remaining ½ tablespoon
caps finely diced sid e by side on a large baking sheet, potato starch in I tablespoon cold
IO oz (300 g) finely ground and sprinkle with ½ teasp o on of water . Tip the juices that have
(minced) pork the salt. (Keep the steamer ready accumulated from the meat and
IO oz (300 g) finely ground for steaming the rest of the dish.) cabbage out of the pan and whisk
(minced) beef into the potato starch mixture
2 eggs, at room temperature In large bowl, combine the onion, with the dashi. Simmer until
• ½ cup (1¼ oz/ 35 g) panko carrot , shiitake,pork , and beef. thickened and syrupy , but still
½ teaspoon freshly ground Break the eggs into the bowl and a silky, smooth sauce .
black pepper add the panko, remaining
4 tablespoons whole milk I teaspoon salt, and the pepper. Let the layered cabbage sit for
1½ tablespoons potato starch Mix the ingredients together using IO minutes before unmolding
11/, cup (IO fl oz / 300 ml) Konbu Dashi a cutting motion with your flat onto a large dinner plate. Cut
(page 156) hand to avoid overworking the into wedges and serve napped with
meat. Stir in the milk to lighten the sauce.
the mixture.
Line an 8-inch (20 cm) round

mold with 3 of the cabbage
leaves-let the leaves come up the
sides of the pan a little. Sprinkle
evenly with I teaspoon of the
potato starch. Smooth half of the
meat mixture over the leaves , lay
another 3 cabbage leaves over the
meat, sprinkle with I teaspoon of
the potato starch, and spread the
second half of the meat over the
leaves. Spr inkle with I teaspoon

I I I I I I I I I
I I I I I I I I I I I I I
I I I I I I I I I
I I I I I I I I I
I I I I I I I I I
I I I I I I I I I
I I I I I I I I I
I I I I I I I I I
I I I I I I I I I
I I I I I I I I I
I I I I I I I I I
I I I I I I I I I
I I I I I I I I I
I I I I I I I I I
I I I I I I I I I
I I I I I I I I I
I I I I I I I I I
itamemono
STIR-FRIES
ITAMEMONO - STIR-FRIES
At a basic level, there are two quintessential Japanese stir-

fry methods: kinpira and abura miso. Kinpira involves stir-frying
julienned or finely sliced vegetables and red chile in sesame
or canola (rapeseed) oil in a hot wok, and finishing them
with soy sauce. Abura miso starts with stir-frying thick rounds
or pieces of vegetables-such as eggplant, green peppers, or
green beans-with julienned ginger and red chile, and ends
with the vegetables being tossed in miso thinned by sake and/
or mirin. Japanese fish sauce or sea salt can stand in for the
soy sauce or miso flavors in these two styles.
This chapter also goes beyond these basic versions to
include some more elaborate (197os-style) stir-fries packed
with vegetables, mushrooms, and sometimes tofu. These
are meals in themselves when served with a big bowl of rice,
and are smart choices for a busy family or student looking
to make one dish that will last over the course of several days.
208 :t'J'&':>~ IT AM EM O NO - ST I R - FR I E S
STIR-FRIED VEGETABLES
WITH BURDOCK
Preparation time: 30 minutes Cobo[burdock root] is ubiquitous add the carrots, toss once or twice,
Cooking time : IO minutes in traditionaljapanese cooking. and stir-fry for 2 minutes . Once
Serves, 6 Beside soups and simmered dishes, the pan liquid is bubbling, throw
burdock is frequently stir-fried in the hijiki, m'?Yashi,and komatsuna,
5 1/+ oz (150 g) komatsuna Uapanese with carrots and seasoned with raise the heat to high, and cook for
mustard greens] , mustard greens , or bok soy sauce for kinpira. Here, green I more minute.
choy vegetables and seaweed elevate the

'I• oz (7 g) dried hijiki , soaked in cold traditionalgobo-carrot kinpira. When the greens have wilted and
water for IO minutes are cooked through, sprinkle in the
2 tablespoons gold sesame oil Cut the komatsuna crosswise into black sesame seeds and spoon into
• 5 '/• oz (150 g) gobo [burdock]. r½ inches (4 cm) wide pieces . a pretty serving bowl. Serve hot or
scrubbed and cut into thin julienne r½ Drain the hijiki and cut it crosswise at room temperature.
inches into r½-inch (4 cm) pieces.
(4 cm) long
2 small dried red chiles (preferably In a large frying pan, heat the
Japanese) , seeded and thinly sliced sesame oil over medium heat.
into rounds Scrape in the goboand chiles and
6 tablespoons Katsuobushi Dashi stir-fry until half cooked, but
(page 156) fragrant, 2-3 minutes . Splash in
2 table spoons soy sauce the dashi, soy sauce , and mirin. Raise
• I tablespoon mirin the heat to high, stir to distribute
2 small carrots , scrubbed and cut into and cook for I minute, stirring .
thin julienne r½ inches (4 cm) long Reduce the heat to medium-low,
• I handful moyashi [mung bean
sprouts], rinsed and drained
• I table spoon black sesame seeds
STIR-FRIED BURDOCK
WITH TOFU
Preparation time, 35 minutes Use top-quality tofu for this dish as In a large frying pan, heat the
Cooking time, IO minutes it will make a difference. sesame oil over medium-high heat.
Serves, 6 Toss the burdock slivers into the oil
Set the tofu on a cutting board and and stir - fry for 3-5 minutes. Add
• I (ro½ oz/ 300 g) momendofu or prop a small saucer underneath to the dashi, soy sauce , and mirin and
Japanese-style soft block tofu angle the board into the kitchen bring to a simmer. Strew in the negi,
7 oz (200 g) burdock root , scrubbed sink (to catch drips). Lay another shiitake, and broken up tofu. Toss
% cup (5 fl oz/r50 ml) Katsuobushi cutting board on top of the tofu to until the burdock has softened but
Dashi (page 156) press out moisture for 20 minutes . still retains a slight crunch , about
2 tablespoons soy sauce Break the pressed tofu into rough 5 minutes. Serve hot or at room
• ½ tablespoon mirin pieces and drop into a bowl. temperature.
2 tablespoons finely chopped negi or
scallion (spring onion) With your nondominant hand , [variation]
4 shiitake, stems discarded and caps hold the burdock above another To add protein and richness , swirl
thinly sliced bowl and use a sharp knife to shave 3 beaten eggs over the top of the
2 tablespoons gold sesame oil thin slices off the end of it as you dish and cook until the egg s are just
rotate it (sasagaki;see page 446), like set , but still partly runny.
sharpening the end of a stick.
209 ITAMEMONO - STIR-FRIES

SARDINES WITH
CARROT-TOMATO SAUCE
Preparation time, 25 minutes , plus 30 Italian in feel, this dish remains Add the onion, piman, tomatoes,
minutes salting time Japanese in conception. It is carrot, and garlic to the pan and
Cooking time, 15 minutes delicious with Japanese rice or cook, stirring, over medium-low
Serves, 6 baguette toasts. heat for about 3 minutes. Stir the
chicken stock into the vegetables,
3 large fresh sardines (1 lb / 450 g) Slice the heads off of the sardines bring the liquid to a quick boil,
• ½ teaspoon fine sea salt and cut down the belly with a sharp adjust the heat to medium-high to
3 tablespoons (45 g) unsalted butter knife . Pull out the guts, vertebrae , maintain a lively simmer, and cook
• I medium onion, diced and tail and discard. You will have until the carrot s are soft and the
3 piman or sma ll green peppers , diced 6 fillets. Rinse under cold running excess liquid has evaporated , about
• 2 medium tomatoes, diced water and pat dry. Lay out on a 5 minutes .
• I medium carrot , diced dinner plate and, holding your
3 small garlic cloves, finely diced hand 12 inches (30 cm) above the Spoon the carrot-tomato sauce on
% cup (5 fl oz/ 150 ml) chicken stock fish (to ensure a light even coating) , top of each sa uteed sardine, squeeze
•½lemon salt on all sides with the salt. Let the lemon over , and strew with
l small handful coarsely chopped sit for 30 minutes, refrigerated. parsley before serving. Serve hot
parsley (Italian or curly) or at room temperature.
Heat a large, heavy frying pan over
medium heat and drop in the butter @ p.2II
when you can feel the heat rising
from the surface of the pan. Swirl
the butter around the pan briefly,
then immediately lay the fillets in
the pan , skin -side down. Adjust
the heat to medium-low and cook
until golden brown and the flesh
has cooked through , 1½ minutes
on each side. Remove the fillets to
a clean serving platter to rest.
STIR-FRIED EGGPLANT WITH

GINGER AND SESAME
Preparation time: IO minutes Eggplant (aubergine) has a long Slice the eggplants crosswise into
Cooking time, IO minutes history of being paired with ginger. %-inc h (1 cm) rounds . In a large
Serves, 6 The addition of sesame in the sweet frying pan, heat the sesame oil over
and salty sauce makes for a more medium heat. Slide in the eggplant
I tablespoon white sesame seeds deeply flavored dish. pieces and negi, cover, and cook
tablespoon black sesame seeds
l over low heat , turning occasionally,
I½ tablespoons grated fresh ginger In a small, dry frying pan , toast the until the eggplant is cooked
• ltablespoon soy sauce sesame seeds until fragrant. Drop through and ha s golden brown
• I½ tablespoons mirin into a suribachi[grinding bowl) and spots, 5-7 minutes . Pour the sauce
I lb 2 oz (500 g) Japanese eggplants smash slightly. In a small bowl, over the hot eggplant and serve
(aubergines) whisk together the sesame, ginger , right away or at room temperature.
3 tablespoons gold sesame oil soy sauce , and mirin to make a sauce.
I thin negi or 2 fat scallion (spring
onion) , finely chopped

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STIR-FRIED SPINACH
AND MUSHROOMS
Preparation time: 20 minutes This eye-catching dish-brown from the pan until the egg is set but
Cooking time, IO minutes mushrooms , brilliant green retains a few glossy wet spots, about
Serves, 6 spinac h , orange carrot threads, and 2 more minutes.
yellow egg curds-makes a b eautifu l
· 2 tablespoons (30 g) unsalted butter side dish or one-dish meal. [Qj p.213
2 shiitake, stems discarded and caps cut
into 1/+-inch (6 mm) slices In a large frying pan , melt the
2 button mushrooms, stemmed, caps butter over medium heat. Add all
cut into '/+-inch (6 mm) slices the mushrooms and stir-fry until
7 oz (200 g) shimeji, torn apart they start giving off some liquid ,
by hand a minute or two. Sprinkle with
7 oz (200 g) enoki mushrooms , spongy the salt and pepper and strew in
bottoms trimmed off, halved crosswise the carrot and spinach. Continue
• ½ teaspoon flaky sea salt tossing until the spinach has wilted ,
1 2- 3 minutes. Swirl in the beaten
• /+ teaspoon freshly ground
black pepper egg , wet your hand with cold
I large or 2 small carrots, scrubbed and water and shake it over the pan to
fmely julienned moisten , and cook until the egg is
7 oz (200 g) spinach, cut crosswise into half done , about 2 minutes. Cover
I½-inch (4 cm) pieces the pan , remove from the heat ,
8 eggs , at room temperature, beaten and let cook using the residual heat
STIR-FRIED OKARA
AND VEGETABLES
Preparation time, 40 minutes The addition of okara [soybean In a large frying pan, heat the
Cooking time, 20 minutes pulp] to this classic kinpira(vegetable sesame oil over medium heat until
Serves , 6 stir-fry flavored with soy sauce) shimmering. Drop in the burdock
makes this a healthy and delicious and stir-fry until its raw fragrance
2 cups (500 ml) fresh okara [soybean dish. di ssipates, 1-2 minutes. Slide in
pulp]. or I cup (3 oz/ 85 g) dried, the carrot , negi, shiitake,and hijiki.
reconstituted ·with I cup (8 fl oz/ 250 ml) In a large dry wok , roast the okara Stir once or twice to distribute the
warm water briefly over low heat , stirring ingredients, then flavor with the soy
• 1 3/+ oz (50 g) burdock root, scrubbed constantly . Scrape into a bowl sauce and mirin.
• I medium carrot, scru bbed to stop the cooking process.
I oz (20 g) dried hijiki , soaked in co ld Pour in I cup (8 fl oz/250 ml)
water for 20 minutes With your nondominant hand, water and stir in the okara. Cook
2 tablespoons gold sesame oil hold the burdock above a cutting over medium-low heat , stirring,
• I thin negi or 2 fat scallions (spring board and use a sharp knife to until the liquids have evaporated
onions), cut crosswise in 3/a-inch shave thin slices off the end as you and the okara has absorbed flavor ,
(r cm) pieces rotate it (sasagaki;see page 446) , like 5-7 minutes. Serve hot or at
2 large shiitake, sterns discarded and sharpening the end of a stick . Cut room temperature-or chilled the
caps thinly sliced the car rot s in the same manner. next day .
2 tablespoons soy sauce Cut any long pieces of hijiki
• I tablespoons mirin crosswise into bite -size pieces.

STIR-FRIED KABOCHA
Preparation time: IO minutes Gently caramelized fried kabocha layer and sear for I minute or two
Cooking time, IO minutes (Japanese pumpkin) slices, flavored on each side until golden. Add I
Serves, 6 with soy sauce and mirin, add a tablespoon water, the soy sauce,
welcome balance to any casual mirin, and sesame seeds. Cover , turn
· I lb (450 g) small kabocha (Japanese Japanese meal. the pieces occasionally, and cook
pumpkin), peeled, quartered, and cut over low heat until the kabocha has
lengthwise into ¼-inch (6 mm) Cut the kabocha slices crosswise cooked through, about 5 minutes.
thick slices into pieces I¼ inches (3 cm) wide. Toss with the salt and serve hot or
I tablespoon gold sesame oil at room temperature.
• l tablespoon soy sauce Heat a large enough frying pan
• I tablespoon mirin to hold the kabocha in one layer,
2 tablespoons white sesame seeds over medium heat. When you can
• I pinch of flaky sea salt feel the heat coming off the pan ,
swirl in the sesame oil. Set the
kabocha in the frying pan in one
STIR-FRIED LOTUS ROOT
Preparation time: 20 minutes Lotus root has a natural crunch In a large frying pan or wok , heat
Cooking time, IO minutes that makes it a good candidate the sesame oil over medium-high
Serves, 6 for stir-frying, since it retains heat until shimmering. Add the
its appealing texture even after lotus root and toss with two flat
6 tablespoons black sesame seeds , cooking over high heat. Finishing wooden spoons until the roots are
warmed in a small, dry frying pan this dish with a creamy , dashi- glossy and starting to color , about
I lb 2 oz (500 g) lotus root, peeled infused paste of black sesame seeds 3 minutes. Add the dashi, soy sauce ,
• 2 tablespoons gold sesame oil makes for a pretty presentation . and mirin. Cover and simmer,
¾ cup (175 ml) Katsuobushi Dashi swirling occasionally, for 2 minutes
(page 156) Slide the warmed sesame seeds over low heat. Pick the lotus root
2 tablespoons soy sauce into a suribachi[grinding bowl] or pieces out with a pair of tongs and
· I tablespoon mirin spice / nut grinder and process until drop into a medium serving bowl.
broken down, but not paste-like. Stir the simmering liquids into the
ground sesame seeds to make a
Slice the lotus root crosswise loose paste. Fold the paste into the
into %-inch (! cm) rounds , lotus root and serve warm or at
half-rounds, or quarter-rounds, room temperature.
depending on the diameter of the
lotus root.

MISO-INFUSED MEAT
AND VEGETABLES
Preparation time: 15 minutes Naturally just a bit sweet, the In a small bowl, whisk together the
Cooking time, 15 minutes combination of ingredients make miso, dashi, and mirin. Fold into the
Serves: 6 this a lovely dish of miso-infused meat and vegetable mixture with the
ground meat. Serve spooned over chile (if using) and cook, stirring,
l tablespoons canola (rapeseed) oil white rice, tofu, cooked noodles, until the liquids in the miso have
l medium onion, finely diced or toast. reduced and the meat and vegetable
• 5 oz (150 g) finely ground mixture is dry and pebbly , about
(minced) pork In a large frying pan , heat the oil 3 minutes longer. It holds up well
3 oz (75 g) finely ground (minced) beef over medium heat. Add the onion in the refrigerator for a few days.
2 small carrots, finely diced and saute gently until softened
small piman
• 2 and translucent, about 2 minutes .
(3 oz/ 75 g) , finely diced Add the ground (minced) meat
4 small shiitake , stems discarded and and stir-fry , breaking up lumps
caps finely diced until the meat is half cooked, about
4 tablespoons brown rice miso 2 minutes. Slide the carrot, piman,
4 tablespoons Katsuobushi Dashi and shiitakeinto the meat mixture
(page 156) and continue stirring over medium
I tablespoon mirin heat until the vegetables and meat
I small dried red Japanese chile, seeded are cooked through, 5-7 minutes .
and finely chopped (optional)
SAUTEED VEGETABLES WITH

CHICKEN LIVER AND TOFU
Preparation time: 40 minutes The chicken liver adds flavor to this Cut the carrot crosswise into
Cooking time: 5 minutes vegetable stir-fry, while the tofu I ½-inch (4 cm) lengths. Slice those
Serves: 6 introduces a mild creamy texture. pieces lengthwise into thin slabs .
And the technique of using salted Stack the slabs and cut into ¾ inch
I (10½ oz/300 g) momendofu or rice bran to soften the intense liver (2 cm) wide rectangles . Stack the
Japanese-style soft block tofu flavor is quite clever. Be sure to use slabs and cut into thin rectangles
· ½ tablespoon fine sea salt four whole garlic chives and not (tanzaku-giri; see page 446) % inch
· 2 tablespoons rice bran just four garlic chive leaves. (r cm) wide.
• 5 oz (150 g) chicken livers
• I small carrot , scrubbed Set the tofu on a cutting board and In a large frying pan, heat the sake
· 3 tablespoons sake prop a small saucer underneath it over medium heat until it starts to
I tablespoon gold sesame oil to angle the board into the kitchen bubble. Stir in the livers with the
tablespoon soy sauce
• I sink (to catch drips) . Lay another sesame oiC soy sauce , and mirin. Add
· ½ tablespoon mirin cutting board on top of the tofu to the carrot, bok choy , piman, m~ashi,
3 oz (75 g) bok choy , sliced lengthwise press out moisture for 20 minutes and garlic chives and stir-fry over
through the core into long strips , then before cutting into % - inch high heat until the vegetables are
halved crosswise (r cm) cubes. cooked, 2- 3 minutes. Serve hot.
• I piman or small green pepper
(r oz/25 g), cut lengthwise into slivers Mix the salt with the rice bran
· I¾ oz (50 g) moyashi [mung bean and gently massage the livers with
sprouts] the salted bran , taking care not to
4 fat garlic chives , cut crosswise into rip the tender liver lobes . Fill a
2-inch (5 cm) lengths medium bowl with cold water and
swish the livers around in the bowl
to rinse off the bran . Pat dry in a
clean tea towel.

STIR-FRIED NEGI WITH MISO
Preparation time: ~O minute _s Negidoes not have the toughness of In a large frying pan , heat the
Cooking time, IO minutes a Western leek and melts down to a oil over medium-low heat until
Serves, 6 lovely silky texture when stir-fried . starting to shimmer. Add the
While still not widely available ginger and chile and stir-fry for
5 oz (150 g) akami no usugiri [thinly outside of Japan, more and more about 30 seconds until fragrant.
sliced pork shoulder) Western farmers are growing Scoop up the pork with your hand ,
• I tablespoon soy sauce negi, so check your local farmers letting the marinade drip through
· I tablespoon sake markets. And in the meantime , fat your fingers, and drop the pork
2 usuage [deep-fried tofu pouch), scallions (spring onions) substitute into the frying pan . Increase
optional admirably for negi. the heat to medium and cook ,
Boiling water (optional) stirring , until the meat whitens,
I tablespoon gold sesame oil Cut the pork across into '/•-inch I-2 minutes. Slide in the negi,bok
• I tablespoon finely chopped (2 cm) pieces . In a bowl, whisk choy , shiitake, and usuage(if using)
fresh ginger together the soy sauce and sake. Toss and stir - fry until the vegetables are
I small dried red chile , seeded and with the pork pieces to evenly coat. cooked through , 3- 5 minutes.
finely chopped
2 medium negi or 6 fat scallions If using the usuage,place in a In a small bowl, stir together the
(spring onions) wire-mesh sieve and pour a steady miso and mirin. Scrape over the
(7 oz/ 200 g) , cut crosswise into ¾-inch stream of boiling water over it for vegetables and toss off heat until
(2 cm) pieces IO seconds . Shake off and cut into incorporated. Serve hot or at room
3 ½ oz (JOO g) bok choy, cut crosswise ¾-inch (2 cm) squares. temperature . Leftovers are fine
into I½-inch (4 cm) pieces reheated or cold .
4 shiitake, stems discarded and
caps quartered
2 tablespoons barley miso
GREEN PEPPER KINPIRA
Preparation time: IO minutes Kinpira-sauteed vegetables flavored and browned in spots. Add the soy
Cooking time, 5 minutes with soy sauce-are commonly cut sauce and mirin, stir - fry for another
Serves, 6 into julienne strips, and take some minute to evaporate the liquid, and
time to prep. Here the piman are slide the piman into a medium bowl.
I tablespoon gold sesame oil quartered , making this dish a bit Sprinkle with the sesame seeds and
8 small piman or small, thin-skinned quicker to prepare. serve hot.
green peppers, quartered
• I tablespoon soy sauce In a large frying pan , heat the
· ½ tablespoon mirin oil over medium heat until
I teaspoon white sesame seeds , warmed shimmering but not smoking.
in a small, dry frying pan Throw in the piman and sear,
covered, for I minute on each side,
until the piman are crisp-tender
ITAMEMONO - STIR-FRIES
MISO-FRIED EGGPLANT
AND GREEN PEPPER
Preparation time : 15 minutes Eggplant (aubergines) , pi man, and ginger to the same pan and stir-
Cooking time : IO minutes miso come together brilliantly in this fry over low heat for 30 seconds
Serves: 4-6 quintessential summer dish. to I minute. Increase the heat to
medium, toss in the eggplant
12 oz (350 g) Japanese eggplants Slice the eggplants (aubergines) and continue to stir-fry until
(aubergines) , stem ends trimmed lengthwise into slabs % inch cooked through but not melting ,
• 3 tablespoons canola (rapeseed) oil (1 cm) thick. Stack the slabs 3-5 minutes. Stir in the soy
5 1/+ oz (150 g) piman Uapanese green and halve lengthwise . Cut those sauce and sake, and immediately
peppers]. cut lengthwise into strips pieces crosswise, in half or thirds, lift the pan off of the heat. Swirl
% inch (1 cm) wide depending on the length of the the pan around for a second or
2-inch (5 cm) piece negi or I scallion eggplant. They should be similar so to evaporate the liquids. Fold
(spring onion) , sliced diagonally into in length to the green pepper. in the cooked green pepper and
1
/,-inch (6 mm) pieces miso. Smooth the misoaround the
• I medium garlic clove , finely chopped In a large frying pan or wok , heat vegetables with a heatproof spatula
I teaspoon finely chopped fresh ginger the oil over medium-high heat. so that they are evenly coated.
• I tablespoon soy sauce Add the green peppers and stir-
• I tablespoon sake fry until crisp-tender, 2 minutes. @ p.219
I tablespoon brown rice miso Transfer to a bowl with a slotted
spoon . Add the negi,garlic , and
STIR-FRIED BURDOCK
AND CARROT
Preparation time: IO minutes This is one version of the Note: If prepping the gobo ahead,
Cooking time: 5 minutes ubiquitous kinpiragobo, a classic soak it in water with lemon or
Serves: 6 Japanese farm dish. Leftovers are vinegar, otherwise it will discolor
useful as a small side dish to a casual (though be sure to pat it dry before
2 tablespoons gold sesame oil Japanese meal. stir-frying) .
7 oz (200 g) gobo [burdock]. scrubbed
and cut into fine julienne 2 inches In a large frying pan or wok , heat
(5 cm) long (see Note) the oil over medium-high heat
• I medium carrot (3½ oz/roo g), until shimmering. Toss in the
scrubbed and cut into fine julienne gobo and carrot and stir-fry until
2 inches (5 cm) long heated through , 3-5 minutes.
• 4 tablespoons soy sauce Swirl in the soy sauce and mirin
• 2 tablespoons mirin and continue stir-frying until the
1
/+ teaspoon shichimi togarashi liquid has evaporated, 1-2 minutes .
[seven- spice powder] Sprinkle in the shichimitogarashiand
I tablespoon white or black sesame sesame seeds, toss , and slide into a
seeds , warmed in a small, dry frying pan serving bowl. Serve hot or at room
temperature .

SILKY BEAN SPROUTS
Preparation time: 20 minutes The pork shoulder in this dish In a sma ll saucepan, warm the
Cooking time: 15 minutes serves only to provide a bit of chicken stock. Whisk the potato
Serves: 6 richness, so there is just a sma ll starch mixture slowly into the hot
amount. chicken stock with the soy sauce.
3 cups (7 oz/200 g) moyashi [mung Simmer gently until the mixture
bean sprouts] In small pot of boiling water, reaches a silky , creamy texture ,
I tablespoon gold sesame oil blanch the m'!Yashifor 30 seconds. 3- 5 minutes . Pour the sauce over
• 3 ½ oz (JOO g) finely sliced Scoop out with a wire-mesh sieve the pork and vegetables and serve.
pork shou lder and drain.
2 shiitake, stems discarded and caps
thinly sliced In a large frying pan , heat the
I small carrot, scrubbed, halved oil over medium heat until
lengthwise, and thinly sliced crosswise shimmering. Slide in the pork,
½ medium stalk celery, thinly sliced shiitake, carrot , celery , celery leaves ,
crosswise, leaves roughly chopped ginger , and m'!Yashi.Stir-fry until
I tablespoon finely chopped the pork and vegetables are cooked
fresh ginger through, 5-7 minutes. Sprinkle in
½ tablespoon soy sauce the salt.
I cup (8 fl oz/250 ml) chicken stock
½ tablespoon potato starch dissolved in
I tablespoon water
ROLLED SPINACH OMELET
Preparation time: 15 minutes Simple in execution but pretty Roll across the surface of the pan
Cooking time: 5 minutes in presentation, and delicious as and cook for I minute or so, until
Serves: 4 well, these little rolled omelets are the egg has set but still shiny . Turn
useful to put in your repertoire. the egg omelet out of the pan onto
3 ½ oz (JOO g) spinach Other leafy greens can be easily a cutting board and repeat with the
2 eggs, at room temperature substit uted . Serve as a bite before remaining oil and egg mixture.
• ¼ teaspoon fine sea salt dinner, or as a side dish. Turn the second omelet out onto
I teaspoon canola (rapeseed) oil the cutting board next to the first.
• ½ tablespoon soy sauce Bring a pot of water to a boil.
Hold the spinach stem ends in the Flip the omelets, so the shiny side
boiling water for 30 secon ds, then is up . Divide the spinach in half
submerge the leave s in the water and form each half into a log that is
and cook for 30 more seconds . as long as the omelet is wide. Place
Scoop out with a wire-mesh sieve a log at the bottom end of each
and cool under running water. omelet, making sure that the end
Align by stem ends and squeeze of the spinach log comes right to
down the length of the leav es to the outer edges. Roll up tightly and
remove excess water. cut in half at a diagonal. Stand up
and drizzle a heaping ¼ teaspoon
Break each egg into a sma ll bowl soy sauce over the spinach in each
and whisk in 1/a teaspoon salt into omelet.
each. Heat a rectangular Japanese
omelet pan (page 445) over
medium-low h eat until you can feel
the heat rise up , and measure in
¾ teaspoon of the oil. Tilt the pan
to spread the oil across and scrape
in the egg from one of the bowls.

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ROLLED EGG OMELET
Preparation time, 5 minutes This is a classic dish that normally the pan, but not go up the sides.
Cooking time, 5 minutes uses a minimal amount of oil, Once the egg is half-set, nudge
Serves, 2 but is also delicious cooked in a the edge closest to the pan handle
generous lashing of butter. into starting a roll and , using the
• 4 eggs, at room temperature gravity, tilt the pan and roll down
4 tablespoons Katsuobushi Dashi In a bowl , mix together the eggs, to the opposite end. Wipe the pan
(page 156) dashi, mirin, usukuchish'!)'u,and salt with a little more oil, pour in more
I tablespoons mirin with saibashi[cooking chopsticks]. egg mixture, making sure to lift
I teaspoon usukuchi shoyu up the already formed roll so that
• ½ teaspoon fine sea salt Heat a tamag'!)'akinabe [rectangular the egg slurps underneath , and
I tablespoon canola (rapeseed) oil Japanese omelet pan, page 445] roll back the other way, this time
over medium-high heat and drizzle toward the pan handle end. Repeat,
in a little of the oil. With a folded by pouring in the egg mixture at
up piece of paper towel, wipe the alternating ends of the pan, until
oil across the bottom of the pan all of the mixture has been used.
and into the corners. Give the Cut crosswise into 2-inch (5 cm)
eggs a quick stir and pour in a thin pieces and serve hot for breakfast
layer of the egg mixture , tilting the or lunch.
pan to evenly cover the bottom of
EGG THREADS
Preparation time: 5 minutes Use these egg threads as a topping off the heat to ensure even coverage
Cooking time, 5 minutes in sushi dishes, donburi[rice bowls], over the pan. Cook for I minute,
Makes, 'h cup (¾ oz/50 g) egg threads or salads. dislodge the edges, and flip. Cook
for 30 seconds more and turn out
• I egg, at room temperature Break the egg into a small bowl onto a cutting board. Cool for
• I pinch of fine sea salt and beat with a fork to emulsify, 2 minutes , then roll up and cut
½ tablespoon canola (rapeseed) oil but do not create a froth. Add the crosswise into 1/•-inch (6 mm)
salt. In a medium frying pan, heat threads. Toss to separate.
the oil over medium-high heat.
Spread the oil with a spatula. Swirl
in the beaten egg, tilting the pan

JAPANESE-STYLE
SCRAMBLED EGGS
Preparation time, 5 minutes Scrambled egg s flavored with soy the center , allowing the runny parts
Cook ing time, 5 minutes sau ce and katsuobushi make a brilliant to slurp back toward the edges.
Serves, 4 lunch , especially when served Once no more runny porti ons of
with quickJapanese pickles or a egg remain, but they are still only
6 eggs, at room temperature vegetable dish and rice . semi-set, nudge one side of the egg
2 t eas poons usukuchi shoyu mixture over the top of the other
· 2 teaspoons mirin In a bowl , whisk together the eggs, side and tilt the pan against the
I pinch of flaky sea salt usukuchish'!)'u,min·n, and salt. In a heat to achieve a small amount of
I tablespoon canola (rapeseed) or medium frying pan , heat the oil browning. Turn out onto a plate,
gold sesame oil over medium-high heat and scrape strew with katsuobushiand serv e hot .
3 tablespoons freshly shaved in the egg mixture. Using a heat-
katsuobushi or 6 tablespoons hanak ats uo resistant spatula , draw the egg
mixture from the outside edges into
STIR-FRIED EGG WITH BEEF
Preparation time: 20 minutes Egg and meat stir-fries are one Heat a large frying pan or wok over
Cooking time, 15 minutes of the quickest , mo st convenient medium-high heat. When hot , add
Serve s, 4-6 dinners , and only need something ½ tablespoon of the oil. Add the
green to make them a complete meat and stir-fry until browned ,
1
20 thin green beans (3 /2 ozlI00 g) , one-dish meal. separating the piece s with a pair
topped of saibashi [cooking chopsticks] or
6 eggs, al room temperature In a pot of salted boiling water, tongs as you cook. Slide the coo ked
• 13/+ teaspoons mirin blanch the green beans for meat into a medium bowl.
½ teaspoon fine sea salt I minute . Scoop out with a wire-
5 oz (150 g) beef shoulder, thinly sliced mesh sieve and refresh under cold, Wipe out the pan, heat the
an d cut crosswise into 3/.+-inch running water. Pat dry in a clean remaining ½ tablespoon oil over
(2 cm) pieces tea towel and slice at an acute medium heat , and add the egg
• I tablespoon soy sauce diagonal into piece s 'I•inch mixture. Add the sake, and cook ,
I tabl espoon potato starch (2 cm) long . gathering the egg into large curds
I tabl espo o n cano la (rapeseed) oil with a wooden spoon or he at-
• I tablespoon sake Break the eggs into a medium bowl resistant spatula. Once the egg is
I pinch of flaky sea salt and whisk in 'I• tea spoon of the half-set , stir in the coo ked meat
mirin and the fine salt. In a bowl , and green beans . Stir until the
tos s th e beef with the soy sauce , egg is set, but still a little runny in
remaining 1½ teaspoons mirin, and places, a few seconds more . Remov e
the potato starch. from the heat. Sprinkle in the flaky
salt , stir once, and scrape into a
serving bowl. Eat hot.
223 ITAMEMONO - STIR -F RIES

STIR-FRIED CHICKEN AND
GARLIC CHIVES
Preparation time, 15 minutes The success of this dish hinges on and chile. Toss to distribute the
Cooking time, 5 minutes being smothered in garlic chives , so flavorings , cover, and cook for
Serves, 6 be sure to use the whole chives and I minute . Uncover , add the sesame
not just the leaves . oil , increase the heat to high , and
2 tablespoons canola (rapeseed) oil cook for I more minute to reduce
I lb 5 oz (600 g) boneless, skinless In a large heavy frying pan, residual liquid. Spoon into a
chicken thighs, cut into 1¼ - inch heat the canola (rapeseed) oil medium serving bowl and serve.
(3 cm) cubes over medium-high heat until
12 fat garlic chives , cut crosswise into shimmering . Scrape in the chicken [Qj p.225
¾-in ch (2 cm) pie ces and stir-fry to sear all su r faces,
2 tablespoons soy sauce about 3 minutes. Add the garlic
• I table spoon mirin chives and reduce the heat to
• I small dried red Japanese chile pepper, medium. Toss with two flat wooden
cut into thin rings spoons until starting to wilt, about
• I teaspoon gold sesame oil 0
I m i nute. Add the soy sauce , mirin ,
STIR-FRIED CHICKEN
AND VEGETABLES
Preparation time: 25 minutes Negi (Japanese leek] and chicken is longer pink, about 2 minutes.
Cooking time, IO minutes a classic yakitori combination , but Slid e in the green pepp ers, carrot ,
Serves, 6 it 's just as good in a stir-fry as on and daikonand toss to distribute.
a skewer. And here the m edley of Sprinkle in the soy sauce and
IO oz (300 g) boneless , skinless chick en vegetables adds a festive element. remaining 2 tablespoons sakeand
breast, cut into ¾-inch (2 cm) cube s ½ teaspoon salt. Strew in the negi
• I½ teaspoons flaky sea salt In a small bowl, toss the chicken and continue stir-frying over high
· 4 tablespoons sake cubes with I teaspoon of the salt heat until the vegetables are cooked,
2 medium negi or 6 fat scallions and 2 tablespoons sake. Make a about 2 minutes . Serve hot or at
(spring onions) , white parts only, cut lengthwise cut down the center room temperature. Leftovers can
into 2-inch (5 cm) lengths of each negipiece to open up and be used for lunch the following day.
2 tablespoons canola (rapeseed) oil lay flat, then slice lengthwise into
• I tablespoon finely chopped fi.ne slivers.
fresh ginger
I small dried Japanese red chile, broken In a large frying pan , heat the oil
into small pieces over medium-low heat. Scrape
2 small green peppers, sliced lengthwise in the ginger and chile and stir-
into fine juli enne fry until the ginger releases its
I medium carrot , scrubbed and cut into fragrance , about 30 seconds. Lift
julienne 2 inches (5 cm) long the chicken out of the marinade
4 oz (225 g) daikon, scrubbed and cut (discard the marinade) and drop
into juli enne 2 inches (5 cm) long the chicken into the frying pan .
• I tablespoon soy sauce Increase the heat to medium and
stir-fry until the surface of the
chicken has whitened and is no
224 ITAMEMONO - STIR - FRIES

agemono
FRIED
AGEMONO - FRIED
Japanese fried dishes , when done right, are truly stunning:

Barely coated with a crunchy batter, "saku saku" is the sound
they make when you bite into them. From the feather-light
tempura to the panko-coated cutlets and the more substantial
croquettes, Japanese fried foods manage to be gloriously free
of heaviness . The oil should be fresh, so change it often.
While some restaurants use a wide heavy-gauge copper pot,
I have adopted a more frugal method for the home cook :
A heavy-duty stainless or small Dutch oven is the best vehicle
for deep-frying on a small scale . If you aren't bothered by
throwing out a quart (liter) of oil each time you fry, you
could opt for a larger pot and fry more at the same time. But
I do not recommend reusing the oil: Vegetables will release
moisture into the oil, and the next time you use it, the food
you fry will absorb more oil and, as a result, will taste oily.
228 mtf!Jo/.J AGEMONO - FRIED

SPICY FRIED CHICKEN
MEATBALLS
Preparation time: 15 minutes Serve these spicy little meatballs as brown and the bubbles sputtering
Cooking time, IO minutes savory bites to accompany drinks out from the surfaces have
Makes, 24 meatballs before dinner. subsided, about 5 minutes. Drain
on absorbent paper towels. Serve
I lb 2 oz (500 g) finely ground Place the chicken in a bowl. Sift the batches hot as they come out of
(minced) chicken the flour over the chicken and mix the fryer.
2 tablespoons unbleached pastry flour in with a pair of saibashi[cooking
I egg, at room temperature chopsticks]. Fold in the egg, soy Serve hot with a cocktail pick stuck
• I tablespoon soy sauce sauce , mirin, negi, carrot, shiitake, in each one to avoid burned fingers
· ½ tablespoon mirin and ichimitogarashiuntil all of the and a small saucer of soy sauce or
I thin negi or 2 fat scallions ingredients are well incorporated. por,zu, for dipping .
(spring onions) , finely chopped Using two soup spoons, form
• I small carrot , scrubbed and 12 small balls about the size of large
finely diced walnuts.
2 shiitake, stems discarded and caps
finely chopped Pour 3 1/+ inches ( 8 cm) oil into a
I teaspoon ichimi togarashi [powdered heavy medium pot and heat over
Japanese red chile] medium-high heat until hot but
Neutral oil, such as canola (rapeseed) , not smoking. Working in batches,
p eanut, or safflower , for deep - frying fry the meatballs until golden
• Soy sauce or ponzu, for dipping
DEEP-FRIED CHICKEN NUGGETS
Preparation time, 45 minutes Fried chicken nuggets, often marinade off. Dredge in the potato
Cooking time, 15 minutes purchased on the fly at convenience starch. Fry until golden brown
Serves, 6 stores, are one of the best-loved and the extruding bubbles have
foods of Japanese youth. Making subsided , 3- 5 minutes . Drain on
I lb 2 oz (500 g) boneless , skin-on them at home does take a bit of absorbent paper towels . Repeat with
chicken thigh , cut into 1½-in ch time , but cutting the chicken into the remaining chicken. Serv e the
(4 cm) cubes smaller pieces makes the frying bat ches hot as they come out of
• 2 tablespoons soy sauce go faster. th e fryer.
2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger Drop the chicken into a gallon-
• I large pinch of ichimi togarashi size resealable plastic bag. Add the
[powdered Japanese red chile] soy sauce, mirin, ginger , and ichimi
Neutral oil, such as canola (rapeseed) , togarashiand massage to distribute.
peanut, or safflower, for deep-frying Marinate for at least 30 minute s.
½ cup (2 ½ oz/7 5 g) potato starch
• Soy sauce, for dipping Pour 3 1/+ inches (8 cm) oil into
a heavy medium pot and heat
over medium heat. Remove
about 12 pieces of chicken from
th e marinade and shake excess
229 m,f~ AGEMONO - FRIED

DEEP-FRIED DAIKON WITH
BLACK SESAME
Preparation time: 15 minutes Daikondipped in grated nagaimo Add the sesame oil to a heavy
Cooking time: IO minutes [mountain yam] before frying is medium pot and pour in canola
Serves: 6 crispy and juicy. These are best (rapeseed) oil to come up
hot , though are still tasty at room 3 1/+ inches (8 cm) up. Heat over
4-inch (ro cm) piece naga imo temperature. medium-high heat until hot but
[mountain yam] , peeled not smoking. Working in batches
% cup (roo g) unbleach ed cake flour Grate the nagaimo on an oroshigane (do not crowd the pot) , fry the
• I tablespoon black sesame seeds , Uapanese grating plate] into a batter-coated daikon pieces until
warmed in a small, dry frying pan viscous mass . Measure the flour into golden brown, turning for even
I lb (450 g) daikon, peeled (see Note) a medium bowl and slowly whisk coating, about 2 minutes per batch.
• I tablespoon gold sesame oil in % cup (5 fl oz/r50 ml) water to Drain on absorbent paper towels.
Canola (rapeseed) oil, for deep-frying make a smooth batter. Stir in the Eat as is, sprinkled with the salt.
• ½ teaspoon flaky sea salt, for serving nagaimo and black sesame seeds.
Note: Save the peels to make
Cut the daikoncrosswise into Daikon Peel Kinpira (page 32).
¾ - inch (2 cm) rounds , then into
half - moons or quarter-moons.
Fold the daikonpieces into the bowl
of batter with a rubber spatula to
coat on all sides.
FRIED DRIED PERSIMMONS
Preparation time: 20 minutes Hoshigaki[dried persimmons] Pour 3 1/+ inches (8 cm) oil into a
Cooking time: 5 minutes are available from late October medium heavy pot and heat over
Serves: 4 through December inJapan. Since medium - high heat until hot but
they are semi-dried, the only way not smoking. Measure the potato
4 quail eggs, at room temperature to extend their shelf life is to freeze starch and fine sea salt into a bowl
• 4 hoshigaki [dried persimmons] them. Hopefully, you can find big enough to hold one hoshigaki
Neutral oil , such as canola (rapeseed) , some , since they are delicious. Eat and thin with 2 tablespoons cold
peanut, or safflower , for frying these fried persimmons hot with a water. Roll each hoshigaki in the
· 4 tablespoons potato starch glass of frothy beer or champagne . potato starch liquid to cover and
• I large pinch of fine sea salt fry until crisp and golden , with
Flaky sea salt for serving , optional In a small saucepan of boiling water , the dried hoshigakistarting to show
cook the quail eggs for 3 minutes . through the white starch coating ,
Cool under cold running water and the lively bubbles beginning to
and peel. subside , about 5 minutes. Drain
on absorbent paper towels for l-2
Make a vertical slit in the side of seconds, remove the toothpick, and
each hoshigakiand pry out the pits slice in half crosswise . Serve hot,
(stones). Poke a quail egg inside taking care to avoid the tough calyx
each hoshigakithrough the slit. Close (cap) at the stem end. Sprinkle the
the hoshigakigap by threading a yolks with a tiny pinch of the flaky
toothpick diagonally through the sea salt, if you think they need it.
bottom third to the top third of
the slit.
230 AGE MONO - FRIED

AGEDASHI TOFU
Preparation time: 35 minutes A cult favorite of foreigners and In a small saucepan , warm the dashi,
Cooking time: 5 minutes Japanese alike. Top-quality momendofu soy sauce, and mirin.
Serves : 4 or Japanese-style soft block tofu is
important for the success of this dish . Dollop a generous spoonful of
l the drained daikonand a dab of the
Japanese-style soft block tofu Set the tofu on a cutting board and grated ginger on top of each piece
Neutral oil , such as canola (rapeseed), prop a small saucer underneath to of tofu. If desired, garnish with one
peanut, or safflower , for deep-frying angle the board into the kitchen sink or more of the following: asatsuki,
• 2 tablespoons potato starch (to catch drips) . Lay another cutting shiso, katsuobushi,"J)'oga,and/or nori.
• % cup (5 fl oz/r50 ml) Katsuobushi board on top of the tofu to press out Pour the flavored dashiover the
Dashi (page 156) moisture for 20 minutes. garnished tofu and serve hot.
l
• l tablespoon mirin Pour 3¼ inches (8 cm) oil into [Qj p .233
½ cup (4 1/2 oz/r25 g) finely grated a heavy medium pot and heat
daikon , drained in a fine sieve over medium-high heat to 350°F
• l tablespoon grated fresh ginger (180 ° C) . Cut the tofu into 4 large
l tablespoon finely chopped asatsuki squares and dust with the potato
Uapanese shallot] or scallion starch. Drop the tofu into the oil
(spring onion) , optional and fry until golden brown on all
2 shiso leaves, cut into fine threads sides, about 30 seconds. Drain on
(optional) absorbent paper towels, leaving
l small handful freshly shaved room between the pieces to make
katsuobushi or hanakatsuo (optional) it easier to blot the sides with more
l myoga , cut into fine threads (optional) paper towel. While still burning hot,
¼ piece nori, snipped into fine threads put a piece of tofu on each of
(optional) 4 deep-sided saucers.
AGEDASHI TOFU WITH

GRATED DAIKON
Preparation time: 40 minutes Simmering agedashitofu with grated Heat 3 '/• inches (8 cm) oil in a
Cooking time: 15 minutes daikon helps mitigate the inevitable heavy medium pot over high heat
Serves: 6 oil that seeps into the dashi. until hot but not smoking. Shake
off excess starch. Working in
2 (ro½ oz / 300 g each) momendofu or Set the tofu on a cutting board and batches (do not crowd the pot) ,
Japanese-style soft block tofu prop a small saucer underneath to drop the tofu into the oil and fry
• 4 tablespoons potato starch angle the board into the kitchen until golden brown, 30 seconds.
Neutral oil , such as canola (rapeseed) , sink (to catch drips). Lay another Drain on absorbent paper towels.
peanut, or safflower, for deep-frying cutting board on top of the tofu to
6-inch (15 cm) piece konbu press out moisture for 20 minutes. Place the konbu on the bottom of
4 tablespoons soy sauce The board should not be too a heavy medium pot. Add 2 cups
· 2 tablespoons mirin heavy-the tofu must keep its shape . (16 fl oz/500 mi) water, the soy
• 2 tablespoons sake sauce , mirin, sake, and salt . Bring
½ teaspoon fine sea salt Halve the tofu lengthwise and then to a lively simmer over medium-
l cup (9 oz/250 g) grated daikon in thirds, crosswise . Sprinkle half high heat and cook for 3 minutes .
of the potato starch on a sheet of Carefully nestle the fried tofu in
parchment paper and arrange the the broth, top with the daikon, and
tofu on top of the starch, leaving gently simmer until the daikonhas
room for rolling. Sprinkle the rest absorbed flavor , 3 minutes.
of the potato starch over the tofu
and nudge the pieces around gently Place two pieces of tofu each on 6
to coat evenly with starch. deep-sided saucers, ladle the daikon-
dashiover, and serve hot.
232 AGE MONO - FRIED

DASHI-SIMMERED DEEP-FRIED
GANMODOKI
Preparation time: I hour These homemade ganmodoki(tofu In a heavy medium pot, heat
Cooking time: 20 minutes croquettes) are also tasty on their 4 inches (ro cm) of oil over
Makes: 12 own. Instead of simmering them medium heat until hot but not
in dashi,you could alternatively smoking. Working in two batches ,
For the croquettes: serve the croquettes drizzled with fry the croquettes until golden
I (ro'/2 oz/300 g) momendofu or soy sauce and garnished with grated brown , 3-5 minutes. Drain on
Japanese-style soft block tofu ginger, chopped scallions (spring absorbent paper towels.
I heaping tablespoon dried hijiki onion) , and shaved katsuobushi,
2 small dried shiitake, soaked in boiling Place the fried croquettes in a large
water for 30 minutes Make the croquettes: Set the tofu wire-mesh sieve and pour a steady
• I tablespoon mirin on a cutting board and prop a stream of boiling water over them
• I tablespoon sake small saucer underneath to angle for IO seconds to remove oil.
½ teaspoon fine sea salt the board into the kitchen sink
1/2medium carrot, scrubbed and (to catch drips), Lay another cutting Make the dashi: In a medium
finely chopped board on top of the tofu to press saucepan , bring the dashito a
2 oz (60 g) gobo [burdock], scrubbed out moisture for 20 minutes. simmer over medium-high heat.
and finely chopped Stir in the usukuchish'!)'u, sake, and
I teaspoon black sesame seeds, warmed Place the hijiki in a large bowl mirin. Slip in the croquettes and
in a small, dry frying pan in the kitchen sink and fill with simmer gently , but not sluggishly,
2 tablespoons potato starch water . Soak for IO minutes, drain, for 3-5 minutes to absorb the
Neutral oil, such as canola (rapeseed) , fill again , and soak for IO more simmering liquids .
peanut, or safflower , for deep-frying minutes . Drain and pat the hijiki
• Boiling water dry in a clean tea towel. Finely
chop. Drain the shiitakeand discard
For the dashi : the stems. Blot the caps dry and
2½ cups (20 fl oz/ 600 ml) finely chop .
Katsuobushi Dashi (page 156)
3 tablespoons usukuchi shoyu Squeeze the tofu one last time and
· 2 tablespoons sake drop into a suribachi[grinding bowl]
• 2 tablespoons mirin or large mortar. Mash in the mirin,
sake, and salt until well emulsified
and fluffy . Fold the hijiki, shiitake,
carrot, gobo, black sesame seeds,
and potato starch into the tofu
mixture and beat with a wooden
spoon until evenly incorporated.
Pat out into 12 small plump round
croquettes and place on a piece of
parchment paper .
234 AGEMONO - FRIED

FRIED KABOCHA
BALLS
Preparation time, I hour The se little kabocha-tofu ball s Grate the noga imo to a viscous mas s
Cooking time, 45 minutes are a bit of work to prepare , but on an oroshiganeUapanese grating
Makes, II! are well worth the effort, as they plate) and scrape into a soup bowl,
are spectacular with drink s before and set that to the immediate
5 ¼ oz (150 g) momendofu or dinner. Contact with the flesh of right of the baking sheet with the
Japanese - style soft block tofu nagaimo [mountain yam] causes an kabocha-tofu balls. Scatter the cut
10½ oz (300 g) lightly peeled and itchy reaction, so it is best to use somen noodles onto a large dinner
seeded kabocha (Japanese pumpkin) rubber gloves when grating it. plate and break up the noodles
• I teaspoon fine sea salt just a bit more. Position that plate
• I sma ll carrot , scrubbed and diced Set the tofu on a cutting board and next to the yam bowl. Place an
½ cup (55 g) walnuts , coarsely chopped prop a small saucer underneath to empty baking sheet next to the somen
· IO½ oz (300 g) naga imo angle the board in to the kitchen plate. Pick up a glob of nagaimo and
[mountain yam) sink (to catch drips). Lay another stretc h it out on your left hand.
3 ½ oz (100 g) so men noodles cutting board on top of the tofu to Set a kabocha ball on top of the
(2 tab-enclosed bunches) , press out moisture for ~O minutes. yam and smooth the yam around
broken into eighths the ball. Drop the ball on the plate
Neutral oil , such as canola (rapeseed), Set up a steamer and bring the of cut somen, then using your clean
peanut, or safflower, for deep-frying water to a boil. (dry) right hand , roll it in the somen
• ½ teaspoon flaky sea salt noodles by nudging it with your
Rub the kabocha (Japanese hand. Once covered in noodles,
pumpkin) with the fine sea salt. arrange on the clean baking sheet.
Place in the steamer basket , cover ,
and stea m until soft , abo ut 25 Pour 3¼ inches (8 cm) neutral
minutes. Transfer to a bowl and oil into a heavy medium pot and
smash the flesh. Mash the t ofu int o heat until hot but not smoking.
the kabocha. Fold in the carrot and Working in batches (do not crowd
walnuts and, using two soup spoons, the pot), fry the kabocha balls
form into golf ball-sized spheres. until deeply golden brown , about
Put the balls on a baking sheet. 3 minutes. Drain on absorbent
paper towels. Serve immediately
with flaky sea salt mounted in
a small pile on the plate.
235 AGEMONO - FRIED

KABOCHA CROQUETTES
Preparation tim e , 45 minutes The saute ed pepp ers make a nice Pour 3' /• inche s (8 cm) oil into
Cooking time, 20 minutes foil for these small , oval - shaped a heavy medium pot and heat
Makes, 12 croquette s . over medium-high heat until
shimmering but not smoking.
I lb 2 oz (500 g) peel ed and seeded Bring a medium pot of salted water Working in batches, fry the
kabocha (Japanese pumpkin) to a boil. Cut the kabocha into croquettes until the main bubbling
I tablespoon canola (rapeseed) oil ¾-r¼ - inch (2-3 cm) cubes . Drop has quieted and the croquettes are
• I small onion, diced the cubes into the boiling water deep , golden brown, about
½ tea spoon flaky sea salt and simmer briskly over medium - 3 minutes . Adjust the heat if they
• 'I• teaspoon freshly ground high heat until soft, about are browning too quickly. Drain
black pepper 5 minutes. Drain and mash in a on absorbent paper towel s.
'I• cup (r ¼ oz/ 35 g) unbleached suribachi [grinding bowl] or pulse
pastry flour in a food processor while hot. In a medium frying pan , heat the
2½ oz (75 g) mild ham , cut into remaining ½ table spoon canola
¼-inch (5 mm) dice In a medium frying pan, heat oil over medium - high heat. Add
3 1/ 2 oz (100 g) mozzarella cheese, cut ½ tablespoon of the canola the piman and saute until slightly
into ¼-inch (5 mm) dice (rapeseed) oil over medium heat. blistered but not floppy , about
I egg, at ro o m temperature, beaten Once you feel the heat rising from I minute.
· I cup (2 ½ oz/ 75 g) panko the pan , add the onion and fry
· Neutral oil, such as canola (rapeseed) , until wilted , 2 minutes. Stir in the Transfer the croquettes to a serving
peanut, or safflower, for deep-frying salt, black p epper, and I tablesp o on platter, strew the piman around the
4 piman or small green peppers , cut of the flour. Cook over low heat perimeter , and eat while hot.
lengthwise into strips ½ inch for 30 seconds . Scrape into the
(12 mm) wide mashed kabocha and mix until
well incorporated . Let the kabocha
mixtur e cool , then fold in the ham
and cheese.
Set up three shallow bowls . Put the

remaining flour in one , beaten egg
in a second, and panko in the third.
Form the kabocha mixture into
I2 rounded oval croquettes . Dredge
them first in the flour (shake off
the excess) , then in the egg, and
then in the panko.
AGEMONO - FRIED
SUMMER VEGETABLE TEMPURA
Preparation time: 30 minu tes Almost any vegetable can be cut up into the batter, shake off drips,
Cooking time: 20 minutes and fried as tempura. The key is and gently slip in the oil. (Fry
Serves: 6 an extremely light , eggless batter the green beans in clumps of
that relies on cold sparkling water 3 .) Fry , turning with chopsticks ,
Neutral oil, such as canola (rapeseed) , and some ice to keep it effervescent until the bubbling quiets down
peanut, or safflower, for deep-frying and cool. and the vegetables are golden
ro½ oz (300 g)Japanese eggplant brown , 1-2 minutes , depending
(aubergines) Pour 6 inches (15 cm) oil into on size. Fry the shisoleaves last , for
l cup (5 1/• oz/!50 g) unbleached a heavy medium pot and set over 15 seconds or so, as they brown
cake flour low heat. quickly. Drain on absorbent paper
l pinch of fme sea salt towels. Eat hot , dipped in small
l cup (8 fl oz/250 ml) cold Meanwhile, thinly slice the bowls of the tempura dipping broth.
sparkling water eggplants (aubergines) lengthwise
I (5 1/• oz/!50 g) unpeeled red potato, from the bottom up to the calyx [variation]
scrubbed and cut crosswise into ¼-inch (cap) area, making sure to leave If you prefer egg in your tempura
( 6 mm) slices the calyx intact. Fan the slices out batter , whisk l beaten egg (2 oz/55 g)
• 9 oz (250 g) lightly peeled and seeded a little. into the batter.
kabocha (Japanese pumpkin), cut into
wedges ½ inch (12 mm) thick In a medium bowl, whisk together [QJ p.239
• 18 thin green beans the flour and fine salt. Slowly whisk
(4 1/2 oz/!25 g), topped in the sparkling water.
• 6 green shiso leaves
• Tempura Dipping Broth (page 157), Increase the heat under the oil
for serving to medium and bring the oil to
340-350°F (170-180°C). Working
in batches, dip each vegetable type
FRIED EGGPLANT WITH

SOUR PLUM
Preparation time: IO minutes Here , the puckery sour plum offsets In a medium bowl , thin the
Cooking time: IO minutes the creamy richness of the fried chopped umeboshiwith the soy
Serves: 6 eggplant (aubergine). sauce and mirin. Once the fried
eggplant slices have cooled to room
6 medium Japanese eggplants Slice the eggplants (aubergines) temperature, add them to the
(aubergines), I lb 2 oz (500 g), stem diagonally into thick triangular umeboshimixture and toss .
ends trimmed chunks (rangiri; see page 446).
Neutral oil, such as canola (rapeseed) , Scatt er a large dinner plate or
peanut, or safflower, for deep-frying Pour 3¼ inches (8 cm) neutral oil platter with the daikon sprouts and
4 umeboshi [salted sour plum]. pitted into a heavy medium pot and heat mound the eggplant attractive ly on
and finely chopped over medium-high heat until hot top of the sprouts.
½ tablespoon soy sauce but not smoking . Slip about half
• I tablespoon mirin of the eggplant pieces into the [variation]
I package (3 oz/85 g) daikon sprouts, hot oil and fry until golden brown Omit the daikon sprouts and add
cut off their sponge base and the bubbling has subsided, l cup (8 fl oz/250 mi) grated daikon
2-3 minutes. Drain on absorbent to the umeboshimixture before
paper towels. Wait I minute for the tossing with the eggplant.
oil to reheat, fry the other eggplant
slices, and drain.
AGEMONO - FRIED
DEEP-FRIED EGGPLANT
IN DASHI
Preparation time, 25 minutes Finishing the eggplant in dashi Pour 3' /• inches (8 cm) of oil into
Cooking time: IO minutes lightens the dish. a heavy medium pot and heat over
Serves, 6 medium heat to 340-350°F (r70-
Slice a thin lengthwise portion r800C). Working in batches , fry the
• 6 med iumjapane se eggplants of the skin off o f each side o f the eggplant until lightly golden . Drain
(aub ergines) (r lb 2 oz/ 500 g) , calyxes eggplant (aubergine), and cut on absorbent paper towels . Slip the
(caps) intact lengthwise into 4-6 slices about hot fried eggplant into the dashiand
• Itablespoon fine sea salt % inch (r cm) thick. Soak in a bowl refrigerate to chill .
• 2½ cups (20 fl oz/ 600 mi) with 2½ cup s (20 fl oz/600 mi)
Katsu o bushi Dashi (page 156) water and the salt for IO minutes. Serve chilled, garnished with ginger .
• 2 tablespoons soy sauc e Drain the eggplant , lay out acro ss a
• I tablespoon mirin clean tea towel, and pat dry .
• Neutral oil, such as canola (rapeseed),
peanut , or safflower , for deep-frying In a medium saucepan , bring
• I tablespoon finely slivered fresh ginger the dashi, soy sauce , and mirin to
a simmer. Remove immediately
from the heat and transfer to a
rectangular refrigerator container
(big enough to hold the eggplant)
to cool.
EGGPLANT FRITTERS
Preparation time, r5 minutes The batter protects the eggplant In crease the heat to medium, and
Cooking time , r5 minutes from absorbing too much oil, and once the oil is hot, fry th e eggplant
Serves, 6 the black sesame helps to create an in batche s. Drop the eggplant
appealing light and crispy coating pieces into the batt er to coat. Slip
I lb 2 oz (500 g) J apane se eggplants on the eggplant pieces . into the oil (do not crowd the
(aubergines) , stems ends trimmed pot) and deep - fry until burnished
• 'I• teaspoon fine sea salt Halve the eggplants (aubergines) orangey-brown , about 2 minutes.
Neutral oil , such as canola (rapeseed) , lengthwise , then cut crosswise into Drain on absorbent paper towels.
peanut , or safflower , for deep-frying 3-4 pieces. Sprinkle the cut sides
½ cup (75 g) unbleached all-purpose with 'I• teaspoon of the fine salt and Line a dinner plate with a folded up
(plain) flour let sit for 5 minutes. Wipe off the piece of washiUapanese calligraphy
½ cup (4 fl oz/r25 m l) whole milk salt and blot off any moisture with paper] and arrange the eggplant
I egg, at room temperature , separated a clean tea towel. fritters on the plate . Place the flaky
2 tablespoons black sesame seeds or sea salt in a small mound on the
coarsely chopped parsley Pour 2 inches (5 cm) of oil into paper and serve the eggplant with
1
• /2 tea spoon flaky se a salt a heavy medium pot and heat over the salt right away while hot.
low heat.
Meanwhile , in a medium bowl ,

whisk together the flour and
remaining ½ teaspoon fine salt.
Whisk in the milk and egg yolk until
smooth. Stir in the black sesame
seeds (or chopped parsley) . In a
small bowl , beat the egg white until
stiff . Fold the egg white into the
batter , taking care not to smash
the whites.
AGEMONO - FRIED
LOTUS "CROQUETTES"
Preparation time: 55 minutes While not traditional croquettes, Drain the lotus root and pat
Cooking time : 20 minutes the lotus slices inside the crispy dry on a clean tea towel. Dust
Serves, 6-8 pork coating give a lovely crunch with the remaining 2 tablespoons
to these fried rounds (or half potato starch and shake off the
IO ½ oz (300 g) lotus root, peeled rounds). The meat coating on this excess. Smooth a thin coating
• 4 tablespoons potato starch fried lotus gives the dish substance, ( 1/ 1•-'/s-inch/2-3 mm) of
• 3 tablespoons barley miso making it a good choice for a side the meat mixture around the
• 10½ oz (300 g) finely ground dish or a main course if served with lotus root. Arrange on a large
(minced) pork a salad . dinner plate.
• ½ small onion, finely diced
• ½ small carrot, finely diced Slice the lotus root crosswise into Pour 3 'I•inches (8 cm) oil into a
• I piman or small green pepper '/•-inch (5 mm) rounds or half- heavy medium pot and heat over
(1'/• oz/35 g), finely diced rounds, depending on the diameter medium-low heat.
2 tablespoons finely chopped curly or of the root. In a bowl, whisk I cup
Italian parsley (8 fl oz/250 ml) cold water into In a small bowl, beat the eggs
• Neutral oil, such as canola (rapeseed), 2 tablespoons of the potato starch. and whisk with the flour to form
peanut, or safflower, for deep-frying Add the lotus root to the bowl and a loose paste . Pour the mixture
• 2 eggs, at room temperature soak for IO minutes to remove on top of the meat-coated lotus
• 4 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose bitterness. root and flip to coat. Working in
(plain) flour batches (do not crowd the pot),
In a bowl, mash the miso into the drop the croquettes into the oil
pork until well emulsified. Fold and fry until most of the bubbles
in the onion, carrot, piman, and have subsided, about 3 minutes .
parsley. Adjust the heat if browning too
quickly . Drain on absorbent paper
towels and serve hot.
PICKLED RED GINGER FRITTERS
Preparation time: 15 minutes Benishoga[pickled red ginger] often Pour 3 '/• inches (8 cm) of the two
Cooking time: 15 minutes contains red dye, so take care to oils - in a proportion of 7 parts
Serves : 6 find a natural version such as canola (rapeseed) oil to 3 parts
the one from Ohsawa (either the sesame oil-into a heavy medium
2% oz (75 g) naga imo [mountain threads or the fine slices will work) . pot and heat over medium-high
yam], peeled These hot little fried morsels make heat until hot but not smoking
½ cup (2½ oz/75 g) unbleached cake or addictive bites before dinner, (around 350°FII75°C) .
tempura flour especially when served with a beer .
• I pinch of fine sea salt Working in batches, use two soup
I package (2% oz/60 g) julienned Grate the nago imo to a viscous mass spoons to dollop smallish amounts
benishoga [pickled red ginger], drained on an oroshiganeUapanese grating of batter into the oil and fry until
• Canola (rapeseed) oil, for deep-frying plate] and measure out golden brown and cooked through ,
• Gold sesame oil, for deep-frying 4 tablespoons. 3-5 minutes. Adjust the heat if
browning too quickly . Drain on
Measure the flour into a medium absorbent paper towels. Serve hot.
bowl and stir in ½ cup (4 fl oz/
125 ml) water , the grated nago imo, Im p .243
and the salt to make a smoothly
sticky batter. Fold in the drained
benishoga.
242 AGEMONO - FRIED

LEEK FRITTERS
Preparation time, 20 minutes Kakiageis a type of tempurain which 3'/• inches (8 cm) in diameter into
Cooking time, IO minutes the ingredients are chopped and the hot oil and fry until the initial
Serves, 6 fried into fritter-like rounds. bubbles have largely subsided and
The center of the fritters should the fritters are golden brown,
½ cup (4 1/• oz/J20 g) finely grated naga be cooked, but remain just ever- about 3 minutes. Adjust the heat
imo [mountain yam) so-slightly spongy, which can be if browning too quickly. Drain
I cup (5 1/• oz/r50 g) unbleached tricky if they get too large. These on absorbent paper towels. If the
all-purpose (plain) flour are delicious served alongside soba fritters feel spongy to the touch ,
• ½ teaspoon fine sea salt noodles or as an appetizer with a slide them back into the frying
3 heaping tablespoons dried cut dash of flaky sea salt. oil to cook a bit more . Serve hot
wakame, soaked in cold water for garnished with flaky sea salt, if
20 minutes In a bowl, stir together the nagaimo, desired.
3 ½ oz (r 00 g) non-MSG chikuwa flour, and fine sea salt . Slowly whisk
Qapanese fish sausage), halved lengthwise in½ cup (5 fl oz/150 ml) cold [Qj p.245
and sliced crosswise into thin half-rings water to make a smooth batter.
(optional)
• 14 oz (400 g) negi or fat scallions Fold the wakame, chikuwa(if using),
(spring onions), cut crosswise into negi, and benishogainto the batter.
1/•-inch (6 mm) rounds
• 2 oz (60 g) julienned benishoga Pour 3 1/• inches (8 cm) oil into
[pickled red ginger) a heavy medium pot and heat over
• Neutral oil, such as canola (rapeseed), medium heat until hot but not
peanut, or safflower, for deep-frying smoking. Working in batches,
• Flaky sea salt (optional) drop dollops of batter about
FRIED MISO RICE BALLS
Preparation time, 40 minutes Though not commonly found in In a medium frying pan , heat both
Cooking time, IO minutes modern-day Japan , these little oils over medium-low heat. Sear
Makes, 8 small balls (serves 4) miso dangowere once a convenient the balls for I minute on each of
way for farming families to use their three "sides" until crispy and
2 cups (12½ oz/360 g) chilledjapanese up leftover rice and were served browned. Use a heatproof rubber
Rice (page 291) as an afternoon snack or as part spatula to gently nudge the balls
• 2 tablespoons miso (brown rice, barley, of a bentobox. when you need to turn them.
or soybean)
2 tablespoons finely chopped negi or In a medium bowl, break the rice Serve hot or at room temperature.
scallions (spring onions) up with large chopsticks and add
2 tablespoons canola (rapeseed) oil the misoand negi. Scissor-cut the
• I tablespoon gold sesame oil ingredients into the rice with the
chopsticks until well distributed.
Moisten your palms with cold water
and form 8 small round balls, using
4 tablespoons of rice per croquette.
Chill for 30 minutes.
244 AGEMONO - FRIED

SARDINES FRIED WITH
PICKLED RED GINGER
Preparation time: 20 minutes The brightness of the pickled Pour ½ inch (12 mm) oil into a
Cooking time: 5 minutes ginger makes these little fried large heavy frying pan and heat over
Serves: 6 fish an excellent choice as an low heat while you prepare the fish
accompaniment to cocktails before for frying.
6 fresh sardines (r'h lb/600 g) dinner. Look for a pickled red
• I tablespoon umesu [sour plum ginger without red food dye (I like Measure the flour into a flat-
"vinegar", page 442) Ohsawa). The umesu[sour plum bottomed medium bowl. Whisk
Neutral oil , such as canola (rapeseed), "vinegar"]-actually the brine from in the egg yolks and benishogawith
peanut, or safflower, for shallow-frying salting sour plums-is also available a fork . The batter will be fairly stiff .
1/, cup (1% oz/50 g) unbleached all- from Ohsawa . Dip each fillet in the batter until
purpose (plain) flour lightly coated and set back down on
2 eggs, at room temperature Cut off the heads of the sardines the plate .
• r½ tablespoons finely chopped and make a slice down the belly
benishoga [pickled red ginger] toward the tail with a sharp knife. Adjust the heat to medium and
Pull out the guts, vertebrae, and once you can feel the heat rising
tail , to fillet. Also cut off the hard from the oil, slide each fillet into
fins on the back of the sardines. the oil , introducing each one gently
Rinse under cold running water at the edge of the pan. Fry until
and blot dry. Lay the fish on a golden brown and the oil bubbles
dinner plate and sprinkle with have subsided, about 2 minutes on
the umesu. each side . Blot for I-2 minutes on
absorbent paper towels. Serve hot.
CURRY-SEASONED
FRIED MACKEREL
Preparation time: IO minutes While mackerel is commonly used in Pour 3 'I•inches (8 cm) neutral oil
Cooking time: 5 minutes Japan and Mediterranean countries, into a heavy medium pot and heat
Serves: 6 it seems underappreciated in the over medium-high heat until hot
United States, though perhaps that but not smoking. Working in two
I whole mackerel (r1/, lb/600 g), is changing. Mackerel is best in the batches, fry the coated mackerel
cleaned, filleted, pin bones removed autumn when the meat has high until golden brown, I-2 minutes.
• ½ teaspoon flaky sea salt oil content. Drain on absorbent paper towels.
• ½ teaspoon hot or mild curry powder
• I tablespoon unbleached all-purpose Pat the fillets dry with absorbent Serve on individual small plates
(plain) flour paper towels. Cut each fillet with half of a sudachior a small
• Neutral oil , such as canola (rapeseed), crosswise into thirds and sprinkle wedge ofyuzu.
peanut, or safflower , for deep-frying on all sides with the salt. In a wide
3 sudachi, I yuzu , or ½ Meyer lemon, shallow bowl, whisk together the [fil p.247
for serving curry powder and flour and dredge
each fillet in the curry flour to coat.
Shake off the excess and place on
a large dinner plate.
AGE MONO - FRIED

RICE CROQUETTES
Preparation time, I hour 30 minutes A bit like aJapanese version Cut the cooled meat and vegetables
Cooking time, 20 minutes of Italian arancini (croquettes into the cooked rice with a rice
Makes, 12 croquettes made from leftover risotto), the paddle or a wooden spoon. Fold
mountain yam acts as a binder and in the grated nagaimo until well
I cup (7 oz/200 g) uncooked the barley provides texture. These incorporated and the mixture
Japanese rice croquettes make an excellent light forms a mass. Divide into
1
/+ cup (1½ oz/40 g) hikiwari mugi or lunch, if served with vegetable side 12 portions, pat each into an oval
oshimugi [flattened barley] dishes or a large salad . The meat patty , and set on a dinner plate.
Canola (rapeseed) oil, for frying can be omitted for a vegetarian Place the plate of patties in the
• I medium onion, diced version. refrigerator, uncovered, for
3½ oz (IOO g) ground (minced) pork 30 minutes to chill.
• 1¾ oz (50 g) ground (minced) beef Wash and soak the rice (see
I medium carrot, scrubbed and diced Japanese Rice, page 291). Stir in Once chilled, set up 3 shallow
2 piman or small green peppers, the barley and cook, aerate , and bowls. Put the flour in one, the
(2½ oz/70 g), diced rest according to the directions beaten egg in the second, and
8 large enoki mushrooms, diced for Japanese Rice. Cool to room the panko in the third. Dredge the
• I teaspoon flaky sea salt temperature in a medium bowl, patties first in the flour and shake
½ teaspoon freshly ground about 30 minutes. off the excess, then dip in the
black pepper beaten egg , and finally roll in
7 oz (200 g) naga imo [mountain yam]. In a large frying pan , heat the panko.
peeled and finely grated ½ tablespoon canola (rapeseed) oil
1
/+ cup (1 1/+ oz/35 g) unbleached all - and heat over medium-low heat. Pour 3 1/+ inches (8 cm) canola
purpose (plain) flour Add the onion and saute until soft, (rapeseed) oil into a heavy medium
• I egg, beaten about 2 minutes. Add the ground pot. Add the sesame oil. Heat over
cup (2 ½ oz/75 g) panko
I meat and continue breaking up and medium heat until hot. Working
4 tablespoons gold sesame oil stir-frying until no longer pink, in batches (do not crowd the pot),
1-2 minutes. Stir in the carrot, fry the croquettes until the lively
piman, and enoki. Season with the bubbling starts to subside and
salt and pepper and cook until the the croquettes are deeply golden
carrots have softened, about brown, 2-3 minutes . (If browning
3 minutes. Cool in a medium bowl too fast , adjust the heat.) Drain on
to room temperature. absorbent paper towels. Serve hot.
AGEMONO - FRIED
SOYBEAN CROQUETTES
Preparation time, 35 minutes Croquettes , commonly sold and stir half of the grated nagaimo
Cooking time, 20 minute s in Japanese meat shops or into the soybean mixture. Divide
Makes, 6 croquettes supermarkets , are often made the mixture into sixths and form
with potato, pumpkin, or even spheres the size of golf balls . Set
1½ cups (7oz/200 g) cooke d soybeans creamed crab. Adding walnuts to on a large plate and scrape the
(from ½ cup/roo g dried) these vegetable-packed croquettes remaining half of the grated nagaimo
enhances the slightly nutty flavor over the balls, making su re all sides
2 tablespoons unbleached pastry flour of soybeans. When handling aga are coated with yam. Roll each ball
• 1½ teaspoon s flaky sea salt imo [mountain yam] it is best to in panko.
• ½ teaspoon freshly ground wear rubber gloves, since contact
black pepper with the flesh causes temporary Pour 3 1/+ inches ( 8 cm) neutral oil
½ small onion, finely chopped itchiness. into a heavy medium pot and heat
½ small carrot, finely chopped over medium heat. Working in
2 medium shiitake , stems discarded In a medium bowl, smash the batches , fry the croquettes slowly,
and caps finely chopped cooked soybeans until they have turning frequently to ensure even
4 tablespoons coarsely chopped walnuts broken down, yet have not rea ched coloring, until golden brown,
7 oz (200 g) naga imo [mountain a smooth paste. Mash in the flour, 4-6 minutes. Drain on absorbent
yam]. peeled l teaspoon of the salt, and the paper towels . Serve hot.
½ cup plus 2 table spoo ns (1½ oz/ pepper until well incorporated.
45 g) panko Mix in the onion, carrot, shiitake,
• Neutral oil, such as canola (rapeseed), and walnuts. Grate the peeled
peanut, or safflower, for deep-frying nagaimo on an oroshiganeUapanese
grating plate] to a viscous mass,
SALMON CROQUETTES
Preparation time, 50 minutes These spicy little patties are best hot whisked egg. Form into 12 small
Cooking time, 15 minutes while the starch is still crispy. As plump patties. Refrigerate for
Makes, 12 small croquettes they cool, the coating will become 30 minutes. (You can form the
a bit chewy. croquettes ahead to this point and
11/, lb (700 g) medium-large r efrigerate if you only want to fry a
potatoe s, peeled Halve the potatoes crosswise and few at a time. They will hold up well
l small carrot , scrubbed drop into a heavy medium saucepan for l-2 days.)
1
• /2 tablespoon fine sea salt with the carrot. Cover two-thirds
5 tablespoons whole milk, heated of the way up with cold water, add Pour 3 1/+ inches (8 cm) of oil into
1
• /2 teaspoon flaky sea salt the fine sea salt , and bring to a boil a heavy medium pot and heat over
• 'I• teaspoon freshly ground over high heat. When the carrot is medium heat. Roll the croquettes
black pepper about half-cooked (3-5 minutes), in the potato starch. Working in
l can (6 oz/r70 g) line-caught salmon, remove from the boiling water and, batches, fry until golden brown,
dr ained and flaked when cool enough to handle , cut 3-5 minutes. Drain on absorbent
2 tablespoons chopped scallion into ¼-inch (6 mm) dice. Cook paper towels.
(spring onion) the potatoes until they are soft in
½ teaspoon grated fresh ginger the center, for a total of 8 minutes . Serve the croquettes burning hot
• ½ teaspoon ichimi togarashi Drain and mash the potatoes with with po= for dipping .
[powdered Japanese red chile] a potato ricer or sturdy fork with
l egg , at room temperature, whisked large tines. Smash in the heated
• Neutral oil , such as canola (rapeseed), milk , flaky salt , and pepper .
peanut, or safflower, for deep-frying
• 4 tabl espoons potato starch In a small bowl, toss the salmon
• Ponzu, for serving with the scallion (spring onion),
ginger, and ichimitogarashi.Fold this
mixture into the mashed potatoes
along with the diced carrots and
250 AGEMONO - FRIED

PAN-FRIED FISH BALLS
Preparation time: 25 minutes Fish balls are tricky : They can end Set a small bowl of water next to
Cooking time: 15 minutes up either too dry or too mushy. your workspace , dampen your
Makes: 12 fish balls Adding flour helps control the palms, and form 12 balls . Roll the
texture, and pan-frying renders balls in flour, shake off the excess,
1% lb (720 g) fresh sardines , skinned them appealingly crunchy on the and set the floured fish balls on
and filleted (bones reserved) surface . The aromatics add a bright a large dinner plate .
• 4 small or 2 large shiso leaves , note to these savory bites. Serve
finely chopped hot before dinner with a crisp In a large frying pan, heat the oil
• l tablespoon finely chopped white wine. over medium-high heat until hot
fresh ginger but not smoking. Fry the balls,
l tablespoon finely chopped scallion Slice the fillets lengthwise into turning periodically , until evenly
(spring onion) strips and then crosswise into browned, 5-7 minutes. Remove the
l tablespoon black sesame seeds , a rough dice. Chop well on a cooked fish balls to a clean dinner
warmed slightly in a dry, small frying pan cutting board with a flat-bladed plate lined with a piece of attractively
• 2 tablespoons brown rice miso sharp knife . Scrape into a suribachi foldedJapanese calligraphy paper
2 tablespoons unbleached pastry flour , [grinding bowl] and process to a (washi). Fry the reserved fish bones
plus more for dusting paste. (Alternatively , pulse in a in the oil. Arrange the fried bones
4 tablespoons canola (rapeseed) oil food processor.) Fold in the shiso, on the plate along with the fish balls.
ginger, scallion (spring onion) ,
sesame seeds , and miso. Mix until
all of the ingredients are well
incorporated. Sift in the flour
to stiffen the paste a little.
FRIED CHICKEN MEATBALLS

WITH NORI
Preparation time: 15 minutes There are myriad chicken meatball In a large heavy frying pan ,
Cooking time: IO minutes recipes floating around Japan. heat the oil over medium heat.
Makes: 24 meatballs This one can be Westernized by Working in two batches, cook the
squeezing a little lemon juice meatballs , turning frequently , for
½ tablespoon fine sea salt on top before serving and using 2-3 minutes , until all surfaces
• l small carrot , scrubbed chopped parsley in place of nori. have lightly browned. Reduce the
I lb 2 oz (500 g) finely ground Great for a passed canape at cocktail heat to low , cover, and cook
(minced) chicken parties. 2 more minutes, shaking the pan
4 shiitake , stems discarded and caps gently. Uncover , return the heat
finely chopped Fill a medium pot halfway with to medium , and cook another
l medium negi or 3 fat scallions water and add the fine salt. Drop minute , while tilting the pan to
(spring onions), finely chopped the carrot into the water, bring roll the balls for even cooking
• l egg , at room temperature to a boil over high heat, and cook and coloring. Drain on absorbent
• l tablespoon sake until half done, about 5 minutes. paper towels .
l tablespoon usukuchi shoyu Drain, cool , and finely dice.
• ½ teaspoon flaky sea salt To serve, crumble the nori over
• 4 tablespoons panko In a bowl, mix together the the meatballs and serve hot with
6 tablespoons canola (rapeseed) oil chicken , carrot, shiitake, negi, egg , a cocktail pick stuck into each
· 2 sheets nori sake, usukuchish'!)lu,flaky sea salt , and meatball .
panko with a wooden spoon. Form
24 small meatballs , about I heaping
tablespoon mixture per ball.
251 AGEMONO - FRIED

yakimono
GRILLED
YAKIMONO - GRILLED
A plethora of u:_ak~as[casual drinking spots that double as

eateries] have cropped up recentl y outside Japan. They have
popularized Japanese grilled dishes , notably y akitori [grilled
chicken sticks]. Nonetheless , terjyaki- style meat dishes and
teppan-yaki theatrical cooking have been favorites outside of
Japan for several decades.
There is a vast array of foods in the grilled category that
go well beyond yakitori, terjyaki, and teppan-yaki, including:
salt - grilled , miso-grilled , soy-grilled, as well as more un-
usual treatments, such as fish brushed with sea urchin and
egg yolk (sea urchin-grilled) or kimizu-grilled [a cooked egg
yolk glaze].
The method of choice for grilled dishes is over embers
on a shichirin(Japanese tabletop grill] that is used outside.
These grills are available online or direct from the artisanal
craftsmen on the Noto Peninsula. Alternatively, cooking
under the broiler (grill), generally about 6 inches (15 cm)
from the top of the oven , makes a convenient substitute
method, and sometimes, the food is wrapped in foil
before grilling.
Beyond the grill, however, are a few oven-baked dishes
that also fall in theyakimono category , as do pan-grilled dishes,
such as okonomJyaki[savory Japanese pancakes , page 272).
OVEN-ROASTED SWEET
POTATOES
Yoki- imo trucks selling roa sted Pr ick the sweet potatoe s all over
Pr ep aration time : 5 minutes sweet potatoes still call o ut o ver a with a fork or bamboo skewer and
C ookin g tim e , 30 minute s loudspeaker rigged on top o f their roa st on a rack in the middle of the
Serv es, 6 tr u cks to entice people out of thei r oven until soft in the center , about
hou ses to buy. Though now ad ays, 3 0 minutes . Wrap in thick p aper
• 6 mediu m sweet potatoe s (2 lb / 900 g) , n o t m any peopl e ar e home du r ing and eat ho t , peeling the ou t side
scrubbed th e d ay . These sweet potato es ar e skin away as you go.
also so ld from little roa sting d evices
at local J apan Agriculture farm
stand s in th e win t er. The ar o ma
is enti ci ng .
Pre h eat th e oven to 475 °F (250 °C/

Ga s M ark 9) .
25 4 m2' 1o/.J YAKI MO N O - GRILLED

CHICKEN TERRINE
Preparation time, 25 minutes Chicken loaves make a great little the egg, usukuchish'!)'u,sake, and
Cooking time, 30 minutes cold bite on a {ensaiplate (page salt. In a separate bowl , combine
Makes, 2 small terrines 28) before dinner, but can also be the chicken, carrot , shiitake,
eaten warm . This loaf is baked, but bamboo shoot, negi,panko, black
I teaspoon canola (rapeseed) oil could easily be steamed instead. sesame seeds, and egg mixture
small carrot, scrubbed
• I until all of the ingredients are
2 dried shiitake , soaked in I cup Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C / well incorporated . Pack into the
(8 fl oz/250 ml) boiling water for Gas Mark 5). Line 2 (2-x 4-inch/ parchment-lined loaf pans and
30 minutes 5 x IO cm) loaf pans with smooth the tops.
2½ oz (75 g) freshly boiled or vacuum- parchment paper and rub the oil
packed bamboo shoot , finely diced on the bottom and sides of the Bake in the center of the oven for
2 tablespoons finely chopped negi or paper to make removal easier . 20 minutes until whitened and set.
scallion (spring onion) Let rest in the pans for 5 minutes,
I egg, at room temperature In a small pan of boiling water, run a knife around the edges, and
I tablespoon usukuchi shoyu cook the carrot for 3 minutes. unm o ld onto a cutting board. Cool
• I tablespoon sake Drain and finely dice . Drain the 5 more minutes before cutting . Eat
½ teaspoon fine sea salt soaked shiitake, remove and discard warm, at room temperature,
I lb 2 oz (500 g) finely ground the stems, and finely chop the caps. or chilled .
(minced) chicken In a small bowl , whisk together
3 tablespoons panko
I tablespoon black sesame seeds ,
warmed in a small, dry frying pan
TSOYUPIN
Preparation time, 30 minutes plus These little fried pancakes get negi. Starting from the side closest
30 minutes resting time their flakiness from the dough to you , roll the round into a log.
Cooking time, IO minutes that is laminated with sesame oil. Cut the dough log crosswise into
Makes, 24 small pancakes Although delicious, ts'!)'upinseem to eight r¼-inch (3 cm) lengths. Roll
have fallen out of favor in current- each of those pieces into 4-inch
3 1/3 cups (17 1/2 oz/500 g) unbleached day Japan. Chinese in origin, these (ro cm) thin rounds. Repeat with
bread (strong) flour are kn o wn as scallion pancakes in the remaining balls of dough to
I teaspoon
fine sea salt the West. make 24 pancakes.
I tablespoon gold sesame oil
2 tablespoons gold sesame seeds , lightly In a large bowl , whisk together the In a large frying pan, heat
toasted in a small, dry frying pan flour and salt. Mix in 'I•cup plus 2 tablespoons of the canola
6 tablespoons finely chopped negi or r½ tablespoons (6 fl oz/200 ml) (rapeseed) oil over medium-high
scallion (spring onion) water with a pair of saibashi[cooking heat. Working in batches, fry the
3 tablespoons canola (rapeseed) oil chopsticks ). Knead the dough until pancakes until golden brown on
• Soy sauce, for dipping (optional) it resembles your soft earlobe to each side, about 30 seconds per
the touch. Add water or flour as side . Repeat with the remaining
necessary. Wet a cotton tea towe l, pancakes, adding more oil as
squeeze out excess water, and wrap needed . Cut into quarters to serve,
the dough in the towel. Let rest in a as is, or with a small saucer of soy
warm place for 20 - 30 minutes . sauce, for dipping.
Divide the dough into 3 portions

and roll each into a ball , pulling
the bottoms of the dough together
to make them taut. Working with
one at a time, roll out a ball into a
large round. Brush with one-third
of the sesame oil and sprinkle with
one-third of the sesame seeds and
255 YAKIMONO - GRILLED

SPINACH GRATIN
Preparation time, 15 minutes In modern Japan , gratin has Heat a large frying pan over
Cooking time, 45 minutes come to mean a dish that is made medium-high heat and cook the
Serves, 6 with a store-bought white sauce , bacon until there is a bit of fat
which comes in a vacuum-packed rendering and coloring, but the
ro½ oz (300 g) spinach plastic envelope. But a homemade pieces are still not fully cooked ,
7 oz (200 g) potato , peeled and bechamel sauce is easy to prepare, 2-3 minutes . Cut crosswise into
halved lengthwise and is the perfect medium for r¼-inch (3 cm) pieces .
3½ oz (100 g) lightly smoked bacon spinach gratins-here the potato ,
• 2½ tablespoons (r¼ oz/35 g) tomato , and bacon add texture and In a heavy medium saucepan, melt
unsalted butter lusciousness . the butter over medium heat until
• 3 '/, tablespoons unbleached all- bubbling . Add the flour and scrape
purpose (plain) flour Position a rack in the top third across the bottom of the pan with
2 cups (16 fl oz/ 500 mi) whole milk of the oven and preheat to 400°F a flat wooden spoon for 2 minutes
• ½ teaspoon flaky sea salt (205°C/Gas Mark 6). to cook the flour, taking care
• 'I•teaspoon
freshly ground not to brown. Whisk the milk in
black pepper In a pot of well - salted boiling slowly and gently simmer, stirring
I large tomato, halved lengthwise and water, blanch the spinach stems for occasionally, for IO minutes. Fold
cut crosswise into ¼ - inch (6 mm) 30 seconds , then drop in the leaves in the spinach , potato, and bacon.
half-moons and cook 30 seconds more . Scoop Season with the salt and pepper.
• 4 tablespoons panko out to drain. (Keep the water
boiling for the potatoes.) Once Scrape the mixture into a
cooled, squeeze the spinach down 7 x IO-inch (17 .5 x 25 cm) oval
the length of the greens and cut gratin dish . Smooth the top with a
crosswise into 2-inch (5 cm) pieces. rubber spatula, arrange the tomato
half-moons on top , and sprinkle
Slice the potatoes into 1/,-inch with the panko. Bake the gratin until
(6 mm) half-moons and boil in bubbling around the edges and the
the salted water used for cooking panko is golden brown , about
the spinach until just softened, but 25 minutes.
not falling apart, about 2 minutes.
Drain. @ p.257
SEA URCHIN-GLAZED
FLOUNDER
Preparation time: IO minutes, including This creamy sea urchin glaze makes Position a rack 6 inches (15 cm)
IO minutes of salting time an elegant presentation and pairs from the heat source and preheat
Cooking time, IO minutes well with the soft-fleshed, mild the broiler (grill).
Serves, 4 fish. This is a great side dish .
Place the fish , skin side down , on
2 flounder or sole fillets Holding your hand 12 inches a foil-lined rack set over a rimmed
(about 4¾ oz/r35 g each), halved (30 cm) above the fish, sprinkle baking sheet and broil (grill) for
• ½ teaspoon flaky sea salt on both sides with salt (this I minute on each side. Brush
I egg yolk, at room temperature ensures a light even coating). Let generously with the sea urchin/egg
• 4 sea urchin, sma shed sit IO minutes before blotting off sauce and cook I minute more on
(about 2 tablespoons) excess moisture with absorbent each side. Brush 2 more times to
paper towels. u se up the sauce and cook I more
minute on each side after brushing ,
In a small bowl , mash the egg until glossy and golden with
yolk into the sea urchin to make intermittent brown spotting. Serve
a smooth paste (or whirl in a mini I fillet per person .
food processor) .
YAKIMONO - GRILLED
FOIL-GRILLED GARLIC
Preparation time : IO minutes An excellent afternoon snack, this Broil (grill) until the garlic
Cooking time, 20 minutes grilled garlic is quick to prepare has caramelized , the onion has
Serves, 4 and goes equally well with Brown softened, and the bacon is sizzling,
Rice (page 291) or on toast. about 5 minutes .
2 tablespoons canola (rapeseed) oil
I medium onion , halved lengthwise and Position a rack 4 inches (IO cm)
thinly sliced crosswise from the heat source and preheat
• 4 shiitake, stems dis carded and caps the broiler (grill) .
thinly sliced
• 2 oz (60 g) thinly sliced nonsmoky or Line a rimmed baking sheet with a
lightly smoked bacon, cut crosswise into 12- inch (30 cm) piece of foil and
¾-inch (2 cm) pieces smooth the oil evenly into a
16 small garlic cloves, thinly sliced IO - inch (25 cm) circle in the
lengthwise center of the foil . Strew the onions
1
/+ teaspoon flaky sea salt onto the oil circle, followed by the
½ teaspoon freshly ground black shiitake, then the bacon, finishing
pepper with the garlic. Sprinkle with the
salt and pepper .
FOIL-GRILLED CRAB
AND EGGPLANT
Preparation time, 15 minutes Grilling food wrapped in foil is of ichimi togarashionto the shimejiand
Cooking time, 15 minutes an effective way to seal in juices fold the sides of the foil in to the
Serves, 6 and needs only some sake to add a center. Bring the top and bottom
delicate flavor and cook by steam. pieces together and roll down to
I teaspoon canola (rapeseed) oil Here a bare film of oil is used so seal the packet.
• 9 oz (250 g) mediumJapanese this makes a light , fresh appetizer
eggplants (aubergines), stem ends in the summer . Any kind of Position a rack 6 inches (15 cm)
trimmed complementary mushroom can from the heat source and preheat
• ½ teaspoon flaky sea salt be substituted for the shim~i. the broiler (grill) .
4 1/, oz (120 g) fresh crabmeat, picked
over for shells and cartilage Tear off six 12 - inch (30 cm) Set the foil packets on a rack set
• 2¼ oz (75 g) shimeji lengths of foil and line up across over a rimmed baking sheet and
· 2 tablespoons sake your workspace . Lightly oil th e broil (grill) for 15 minutes .
½ teaspoon usukuchi shoyu center area of each piece of foil.
¼ teaspoon ichimi togarashi [powdered Shave off the sides of the eggplant Serve on salad plates and let each
Japanese red chilel (aubergine) where it bulges out to person unwrap his or her packet
make the eggplant straight - sided , to get the full affect of the fragrant
then halve the eggplant lengthwise steam wafting up.
to make %-inch (I cm) thick slabs .
Lay an eggplant slab in the center

of the oiled portion of each piece
of foil and sprinkle lightly with the
salt. Strew the crabmeat across each
slice of eggplant and top with 2 or 3
shim~i. Sprinkle I teaspoon sake, 1-2
drops of usukuchish~u, and I pinch
YAKIMONO - GRILLED
SWEET MISO-GRILLED
EGGPLANT
Preparation time: 15 minutes Eggplant (aubergine) smothered in Position a rack 4 inches (10 cm)
Cooking time, IO minutes sweet miso is a harbinger of summer. from the heat source and preheat
Serves: 6 When the eggplant is ripe, this the broiler (grill) .
dish is a favorite to make over and
14 oz (400 g) medium Japanese over. While typically fried, here the In a small saucepan, whisk together
eggplants (aubergines), stem ends eggplant is oil-grilled . the miso, mirin, and sake and warm
trimmed briefly over low heat. Scrape into
· I tablespoon gold sesame oil Shave off the sides of the eggplants a small bowl , cool for 5 minutes,
2 tablespoons brown rice miso (aubergines) where it bulges out then fold in the shiso, if using .
• ½ tablespoon mirin to make it straight-sided, then Transfer the eggplant pieces to a
• ½ tablespoon sake cut lengthwise into slabs ½ inch rack set over a rimmed baking sheet
I tablespoon shiso chiffonade (12 mm) thick. and spread the miso mixture across
(optional) the surface of the eggplant slices.
Heat a cast - iron pan over medium -
low heat. Brush the eggplant with Broil (grill) until bubbling and
the sesame oil, add to the pan, and slightly glossy, about 3 minutes .
cook, covered, for 2 minutes on Serve hot or at room temperature.
each side, until softened and brown
speckled.
GRILLED NATTO POUCHES
Preparation time, 15 minutes Grilling natto [fermented soybeans] Position a rack 4 inches (ro cm)
Cooking time, 5 minutes brings out some of its funky from the heat source and preheat
Serves: 4 characteristics , but the mild chirimen the broiler (grill).
jakko [tiny semi-dried fish] and
2 packages (3 oz/85 g each) natto, well usuage[deep-fried tofu pouches] Roll a wooden dowel across the
aerated (see Note, page 436) provide a counterpoint. Serve for surface of each usuagehalf to aid
2 tablespoons finely chopped negi or breakfast or as a healthy snack with in separating the sides to make a
scallion (spring onion) a glass of beer in the afternoon . pocket. Stuff with the natto mixture,
½ cup (11/• oz/35 g) chirimen jakko secure by threading a toothpick
[semi-dried juvenile fishes] In a bowl, stir together the natto, (cocktail stick) through the
• I negi, and chirimenjakko. In a small opening. Place on a rack set over
1
• /2 teaspoon mustard powder bowl, whisk the soy sauce into the a rimmed baking sheet and broil
6-inch (15 cm) piece tororo konbu mustard powder. Scrape into the (grill), turning once, until the
2 usuage [deep-fried tofu pouches], natto and mix well. usuageis sizzling and lightly colored
halved crosswise in spots, about 2 minutes per side.
In a heavy frying pan , toast the Alternatively, grill over low ember
tororo konbu over low heat until it has coals.
crisped up (turn once or twice).
Crumble into the natto.

SALT-GRILLED
TURBAN SHELLS
Preparation time: 5 minutes Grill freshly gathered turban shells Rinse the turban shells in cold,
Cooking time: IO minutes over a fire by the seaside for the running water and shake off excess
Serves: 4 most wildly, rustic taste. In such water. Sprinkle I pinch of salt into
a case, the natural salt contained each shell and place on a rack set
4 fresh turban shells in the seawater is all the flavoring over a rimmed baking sheet . Broil
¼ teaspoon flaky sea salt needed. Removing the grilled meat (grill) until sizzling and fragrant ,
'I•teaspoon shichimi togarashi [seven- from the shells can be a bit messy, about 8 minutes. If desired , pinch
spice powder), optional so lay some newspapers down for a bit of shichimitogarashiinto each
this operation. shell. Serve hot, I per person,
with an oyster fork to remove each
Position a rack 4 inches (ro cm) mollusk from its shell.
from the heat source and preheat
the broiler (grill).
PINE NEEDLE-GRILLED
SNAPPER
Preparation time: 20 minutes Salt-grilling over a bed of pebbles Strew a layer of clean small pebbles
Cooking time: 20 minutes and pine needles is not an everyday in the bottom of an oven proof
Serves : 6 occasion . Make this dish when earthenware casserole . Make a bed
company is coming. When you of pine branch tips on top of the
• I (1'/• lb/800 g) fresh snapper , cleaned open the top after baking, the pebbles, moisten the pine needles
and scaled room will be filled with the heady to prevent burning, and set the
• I teaspoon flaky sea salt aroma of pine needles. snapper across the pine needles.
7 oz (200 g) red or black headless, Nestle the shrimp, chestnuts, and
unpeeled shrimp (prawns), about 6 Preheat the oven to 400°F (205°C/ shiitakearound the fish and sprinlcle
• Small pebbles Gas Mark 6). with the remaining ½ teaspoon
• 2 large handfuls long pine salt. Dribble in the soy sauce.
needles, washed Score a crosshatch pattern through
6 vacuum-packed peeled chestnuts, the skin of the fish with a sharp Cover and bake in the center of the
3 oz (90 g) knife to allow the flesh to cook oven until the fish and shrimp have
6 medium-to-large shiitake, evenly. Massage with 1/2 teaspoon cooked through, about 20 minutes.
stems discarded of the salt. Snip through the back Serve from the casserole, but warn
I teaspoon soy sauce shells of the shrimp (prawns) with the guests that the casserole is hot!
I yuzu or ½ Meyer lemon a pair of kitchen shears and remove Eat with a squeeze of yuzu or Meyer
the veins. lemon juice.
YAKIMONO - GRILLED
SALT-GRILLED SNAPPER
Preparation tim e , IO minutes Salt-grilling is an excellent method Grill the fish over embers for
C o oking time , 20 minutes to crisp up the skin and seal in the IO minutes on each side, until the
Serves, 6 fish juices, leaving the flesh moist flesh is moist and flaky . Use the
and taut. metal skewers to help flip the fish .
I (2 ¼ lb/r kg) snapper or sea bream , (If cooking under the broiler,
cleaned and scaled Rinse the fish inside and out suspend the fish over a rimmed
I tablespoon flaky sea salt under cold water, brushing off any baking sheet by resting the skewers
I yuzu, 2 sudachi, or ½ Meyer lemon , lingering pieces of gut tendrils from on the edges of the pan [or set a
halved the inside spine bone with a clean rack inside of the pan and place
toothbrush . Pat dry , including the the fish on the rack]. This will aid
inside body cavity. Evenly sprinkle maneuverability since the skin can
about I teaspoon of the salt in the stick. Broil for 8-ro minutes on
cavity. each side .)
Thread two metal skewers through Trans fer to a large platter and
the mouth of the fish, out the back remove the skewers . Garnish with
at the collarbone, and back through the yuzu halves. The fish head
to the front between the bottom fin should point to the left and the
and tail. Rub the remaining 2 tea- belly should be directly in front of
spoons salt onto the skin of the fish , your most honored guest. People
taking care to be a bit more generous serve themselves as neatly as possible
on the tail and fin sections. using individual chopsticks .
Light the charcoal in an outdoor grill

(barbecue) and let reduce to ash-
covered embers . (Or position a rack
6 inches/r5 cm from the heat source
and preheat the broiler [grill].)
BLACK SESAME-GRILLED
SPOT PRAWNS
Preparation time, 25 minutes Spot prawns and Gulf shrimp are portion of the prawns with the salt
Cooking time, 5 minutes experiencing a revival as they have and leave for 5 minutes . Dribble
Serves , 6 become more readily available . on the sake and let sit for 5 more
Avoid farmed prawns, if possible , minutes to absorb flavor.
I lb (450 g) unpeeled, headless spot since they are raised in water
prawns or Gulf shrimp , about 18 pens that require heavy doses of Position a rack 4 inches (ro cm)
• I teaspoon flaky sea salt antibiotics to keep the prawns from the heat source and preheat
• 2 tablespoons sake healthy. This dish makes for a great the broiler (grill).
I tablespoon black sesame seeds, appetizer.
warmed in a small, dry frying pan Carefully strew the sesame seeds
• Ponzu , for serving Snip through the back shell with evenly over the prawns and broil
a pair of kitchen scissors and slice (grill) for 2 minutes. Flip, and
about halfway through the back broil the shell side for 2 more
of the prawns with a sharp knife . minutes.
Remove the vein, and butterfly ,
leaving the shells intact. Serve 3 shrimp per person, on
individual plates , with a small
Cover a wire rack with foil and saucer of ponzuon the side for
place over a rimmed baking sheet. dipping .
Arrange the prawns , shell side
down, on top . Sprinkle the exposed
YAKIMONO - GRILLED
SWEET SOY-GRILLED
SPANISH MACKEREL
Preparation time: 30 minute s Unagi[river eel] is on the "avoi d " through each fillet, I on either side
Cooking time: IO minutes list of the Monterey Bay Aquarium of the centerline. Holding your
Serves: 6 Seafood Watch, so here Spanish hand 12 inches (30 cm) above the
mackerel stands in for the traditional fillets , sprinkle both sides with the
4 tablespoons soy sauce unagi. Eating unagiin the summer is a salt (to ensure a light, even coating).
· 4 tabl espoo n s Katsuobushi Dashi Japanese custom that dates from the
(page 156) early nineteenth century . However, Light the charcoal in an outdoor
• 4 tablespoons mirin the global appetite has depleted grill (barbecue) and let reduce to
• 2 tablespoons sake the wild eel population. These ash - covered embers . (Or position
I fre sh Spanish mackerel (1½ lb / grilled fillets can be eaten as they a rack 6 inches/J5 cm from the
700 g), cleaned and filleted are, on rice, or on a salad. h eat source and preheat the broiler
• ¼ te aspoo n fine sea salt [grill] .)
Soak 12 thin bamboo skewers in
water for 20 minutes . Brush the fillets with the sauce and
grill over embers, skin side up, for
In a small saucepan, simmer the 2 minutes (or under the broiler
soy sauce, dashi, mirin, and sake until skin side down). Brush again with
large bubbles form and the sauce the sauce and grill for 2 more
thickens and reduces by two-thirds, minutes. Flip , brush , and grill for
about 3 minutes. Pour the sauce 2 minutes, skin side down, (or skin
into a small bowl to cool. side up under the broiler). Brush
again with the sauce and grill for
Rin se the mackerel fillets in cold 2 more minutes , until the skin is
water and pat dry. Cut in thirds sizzling and browned .
crosswise. Line a wire rack with foil.
Thread 2 bamboo skewers lengthwise Serve hot or at room temperature.
MACKEREL TERIYAKI
Preparation time: IO minutes Oily fish do well with a terjyaki Po sition a rack 4 inches (10 cm)
Cooking time , 20 minutes glaze and this is a classic way to from the heat source and preheat
Serves: 6 pr epare mackerel. The alternative th e broiler (grill).
to broiling here is to cook slowly
½ cup (4 fl oz/J25 ml) soy sauce over charcoal embers in a shichirin Lay a piece of foil over a wire rack
• ½ cup (4 fl oz/J25 ml) mirin [brazier] . and set in a rimmed baking sheet.
4 tablespoons finely grated fresh Broil (grill) the mackerel for
ginger , squeezed to make juice In a small saucepan, bring the soy I minute on each side , starting with
I fresh mackerel (1 1/3 lb/600 g) , cleaned sauce, mirin, and ginger juice to the skin side up. Remove from the
and filleted a lively simmer over medium - low broiler and brush with the terjyaki
1
/• teaspoon flaky sea salt heat and cook , swirling the pan, sauce on the flesh side . Broil for
for about IO minutes, until large I minute, flip, brush the skin side,
bubbles appear and the liquid has and broil I more minute. Repeat
reduced to a thick syrup-about a the bru sh-and-broil method on
quarter of the original amount. each side. Brush and broil each side
for 30 seconds more , ending with
Cut the mackerel fillets into thirds. the skin-side up .
Holding your hand 12 inches
(30 cm) above the fish, sprinkle Serve hot or at room temperature
both sides with the flaky salt (this on individual plates as part of a
ensures a light even coating). Japanese meal.
YAKIMONO - GRILLED
GRILLED SESAME CHICKEN
Preparation time: IO minutes, plus Sesame is a crucia) flavoring in Remove the chicken from the sake
45 minutes marinating time Japan and high-grade seeds are m ari nade and place in a clean
Cooking time: 20 minutes hard to come by , though certainly resealable food storage bag with
Serves: 6 not impossible. Sourcing makes all the sesame mixture and marinate
of the difference when approaching 30 minutes.
r teaspoon flaky sea salt simple dishes such as this one ,
l½ lb (700 g) chicken breasts so put some effort into finding Light the charcoa l in an outdoor
· 4 tablespoons sake the best choice within reach. Oils grill (barbecue) and let reduce to
3 tablespoons gold or white should be bright and flavorful and ash -co vered embers . (Or position
sesame seeds seeds should never be cracked or a rack 6 inches/r5 cm from the
2 tablespoons soy sauce discolored. heat source and preheat the broiler
• l tablespoon mirin [grill].)
½ tablespoon brown rice vinegar Rub the salt into the chicken breasts
• l tablespoon gold sesame oil and place in a quart -s ize (1 liter) Reserving the marinade, remove
resealable food storage bag. Add the the chicken and pat the pieces dry
sake and marinate for 15 minutes . with absorbent paper towels. Rub
the chicken with the sesame oil to
Meanwhile, in a small , dry frying seal the meat. Brush lightly with the
pan, toast the sesame seeds over marinade and grill until the meat
medium heat until fragrant, sizzles and the flesh firms up with
shaking the pan and lifting off the just a little give when touched in the
heat if needed to avoid scorching . middle, 15- 20 minutes , turning
Transfer while still hot to a suribachi and brushing as they cook . ( Or if
[grinding bowl) or spice / nut broiling, arrange the breasts, skin
grinder and grind to a powder. side down, on a wire rack set over a
Stir in the soy sauce, mirin, and rimmed baking sh eet and broil for
rice vinegar. 7 minutes on each side.) Let rest
for 5 minutes , then slice , and serve.
YAKITORI
Preparation time: IO minutes , p1us There are many style s ofyakitori, Once the marinade has cooled ,
30 minutes marinating time [grilled chicken on a stick] though add the chicken and negipieces and
Cooking time : 15 minutes this sweet soy sauce-marinated toss to distribute and marinate for
Serves: 6 one with negiis arguably one of the 30 minutes
most classic ones. Slow grilling over
½ cup (4 fl oz/125 ml) soy sauce charcoal embers, with frequent Position a rack 4 inches (IO cm)
• 4 tablespoons mirin turning and basting, render these from the heat source and preheat
· 4 tablespoons sake skewers sublime, the broiler (grill) the broiler (grill).
2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger method is more practical.
r lb 2 oz (500 g) boneless chi cken Reserving the marinade , thread the
thigh, skin on, cut into %-inch In a small saucepan, bring the soy chicken and negionto metal skewers,
(2 cm) cubes sauce , mirin, sake, and ginger to alternating them . Line the skewers
4 medium negi or 12 fat scallions a brisk simmer over medium-high across a wire rack set over a rimmed
(spring onions), white and light green heat and cook until slightly syrupy baking sheet. Broil (grill) for
parts only , cut crosswise into 3/•-inch and reduced by half, about 7 minutes on each side , brushing
(2 cm) pieces 7 minutes . Pour into a medium periodically with the marinade .
bowl to cool.

MISO-MARINATED GRILLED COD
Preparation time, 15 minutes, plus If cod is not available, yellowtail or The fish can hold in the mash for
4 hours curing time swordfish make good substitutes. up to 2 days .
Cooking time, IO minutes
Serves, 6 Salt the fillets on both sides and let Position a rack 6 inches (ro cm)
sit for IO minutes. While the fish is from the heat source and preheat
½ teaspoon flaky sea salt salting, whisk the mirin into the miso. the broiler (grill) .
6 (3 oz/8 5 g each) cod fillets
• 3 tablespoons mirin Pat the fillets dry with a clean tea Remove the fish from the
¾ cup (r8o g) inaka or white miso towel or absorbent paper towels. cheesecloth layers and wipe off
Smear half of the miso in a shallow any miso that might have adhered
refrigerator container that will just to the fish . Place, skin side down,
hold the fillets side by side. Spread on a rack set in a rimmed baking
two layers of cheesecloth across the sheet. Broil (grill) for 4 minutes on
miso and arrange the fillets on top each side. (Alternatively, grill over
of the cloth. Lay another two layers charcoal embers for spectacular
of cheesecloth across the fish and results.) Serve hot or at room
smooth it down flat. Spread the temperature.
remaining miso on top of the cloth
and press down gently to compact.
Cure in the refrigerator 4 hours.
GRILLED DUCK BREAST

WITH TURNIP
Preparation time: IO minutes Try to find small duck breasts since Heat a cast-iron frying pan over
Cooking time, IO minutes they are more tender and milder medium-high heat. Add the duck
Serves, 4 in flavor than larger ones. This skin side down, weight with the
is good as an appetizer or part heavy pot used to cook the turnips,
4 small duck breasts (4 ½ oz/r2 5 g each) of a full meal that includes other and sear for 2 minutes. Remove
• I teaspoon flaky sea salt vegetable dishes and some rice or the pot , flip the breasts, and cook
ro½ oz (300 g) small turnips, with tops noodles. Duck breast should always I minute more on the second side.
· 2 medium negi or 6 fat scallions be cooked with the skin on, since Remove the pan from the heat and
(spring onions) , cut at a diagonal, into the skin protects the delicate meat use a pair of tongs to place the
r½-inch (4 cm) pieces and also crisps up nicely. cooked breasts on a cutting board to
rest for 5 minutes.
Trim off the overhanging fat on
the duck breasts and score the Pour off the excess fat and return
skin in a crosshatch pattern, only the pan to medium heat. Drop in
cutting partially into the fat layer the blanched turnips and the negi
and not all the way down to the and sprinkle with the remaining
meat. Sprinkle both sides with ½ teaspoon salt. Sear, turning with
½ teaspoon of the salt. the tongs , until evenly browned,
about 2 minutes .
Scrub the turnips and lop off their
tails and leaves, leaving ¾ inch Cut the duck into slices ¼ inch
(2 cm) of the stem. Save the tops (6 mm) thick and arrange
for another dish. Quarter the attractively on 6 individual salad
turnips from stem to tail into plates with the vegetables nudged
wedges. Fill a heavy (cast iron) up next to the meat.
medium pot with water and bring
to a boil. Blanch the turnip wedges [Qj p.269
for I minute. Scoop out and drain.
Discard the water.
YAKIMONO - GRILLED
TEPPAN-YAKI
Preparation time: 25 minutes This is a fun , communal cooking Film 1/2 tablespoon each of the
Cooking time: I 5 minutes affair that tends to create a lot of canola (rapeseed) and sesame oil
Serve s, 4 smoke , so be sure to open the win- on the pan, adjust the heat to
dows if cooking this indoor s. Give medium-high , and drop a handful
ro½ oz (300 g) Japane se eggpl ants each per son a small plate for their of each vegetabl e on the pan ,
(aubergines) , stem ends removed meat and vegetables , a small saucer keeping them separate. Using saibashi
• ½ teaspoon flaky sea salt for pon,,_u
to dip, and a bowl of rice . [cooking chopsticks] or tongs,
• 5 oz (145 g) piman or small gre e n turn the vegetables after about
pepper s , cut into quarter s or sixths Trim the curved sides off both 2 minute s. Let them sizzle for
(d epending on the size of the pepper) sides of the eggplant (aubergine) about I minute longer before laying
• 12 shiitake, stems di scarded lengthwi se (to facilitate making several meat piece s directly on th e
• IO½ oz (300 g) green cabbage , slices without surface skin) . Cut the pan surface (rather than over some
cut crosswise into ½ inch (12 mm) eggplant lengthwise into slabs ½ vegetables). If the vegetables are
thick slice s inch (12 mm) thick. Toss with the almost ready, move to the edges
r lb 2 oz (500 g) slightly marbled beef salt in a medium bowl and let sit for of the pan away from direct heat.
sirloin steak , cut crosswise into slices IO minute s. Remove from the bowl , Each person should cook the meat
¼ inch (6 mm) thick shake off any adhering salt crystals, to his or her preference , 15-30
I tabl espoon canola (rapeseed) oil and blot off excess moisture with seconds on each side , depending on
• I tablespoon
gold sesame oil absorbent paper towels. desired doneness , and serve him o,r
• Ponzu sauce, for serving herself some vegetables along with
• Japanese Rice (page 291), for serving Mound the eggplant , piman the meat. Dip, but don 't drench ,
U apanese green pepper]. shii take, th e cooked ingredients in the ponzu
and cabbage on a large platter. sauce before eating . Serve with rice .
Arrange the sliced steak on a
dinner plate . Bring the vegetables,
meat , and pon,,_uto the table . Set
a cast-iron teppan-yakior grill pan
on a portable tabletop burn er and
heat over low for 5 minutes.
QUICK TEPPAN-YAKI
Preparation time: IO minutes A cast - iron pan or grill pan Discard the used piece of suet,
Cooking time: IO minutes (griddle pan) is essential for replace with a new one, and set
Serves: 6 searing. If shishito or padr6n peppers the pan over medium heat. Once
are not available , substitute with the suet starts to melt, carefully
2 ('l+ - inch / 2 cm) pieces suet a medium piman Uapanese green arrange the shishito,shiitake, and negi
· 3 bonele ss beef steaks (ro oz/ pepper] quartered, per person. in the pan , keeping them separate -
300 g each), r'/+ inches (3 cm) thick each in their own area. Sprinkle
• I teaspoon flaky sea salt In a large cast-iron frying pan with the remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt
24 shishito or padr6n peppers or grill pan (griddle pan) , melt I and sear slowly while the m eat rests ,
• 12 shiitake , stem s discarded piece of the suet over medium-low turning with a pair of tongs to allow
2 medium negi or 6 fat scallions heat. Lay the steaks on a plate even b r owning until the vegetables
(spring onion) , cut crosswise into and salt lightly on both sides with have softened and are cooked
I 1/ 2- inch (4 cm) pieces ½ tea spoon of the salt. through , 3 minutes on each side .
• Ponzu, for serving
Increase the heat to high and sear To serve , cut the steaks cro sswise
the meat on both sides for into slices 1/2 inch ( 6 mm) thick.
2 minute s for rare, or 3 minutes Serve on salad plates with the seared
for medium-rare. Transfer the vegetables alongside. Pool a small
steaks immediately to a large amount of pon,,_u for each person on
cutting board . individual soy sauce plates . Dip a
corner of the meat and vegetables in
the pon,,_u
before eating.

OKONOMIYAKI
Preparation time: 20 minutes Most popular in the area around until the edges have dried a little
Cooking time: 20 minutes Osaka and Hiroshima, there are and the pancake is golden brown
Makes: 2 large pancakes myriad regional variations of these on the bottom , about 8 minutes .
jam-packed pancakes. Prepare Steam will accumulate on the inside
I (ro½ oz/300 g) boneless pork chop, for a casual family meal , or have of the lid , so take care to wipe the
I¼ inches (3 cm) thick a make-your-own party using a water droplets off every once in
• I teaspoon flaky sea salt portable tabletop burner. Feel free a while .
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce to omit or substitute the pork or
• 2 tablespoons tomato ketchup dried shrimp. Invert a large dinner plate over a
r'h cups (7 oz/ 200 g) udon flour or pan and using two pot holders or
unbleached pastry flour Sprinkle the pork with ½ teaspoon oven mitts (gloves) , flip the pan
ro½ oz (300 g) green cabbage, cut of the salt. In a small, heavy frying upside down so the pancake is on
crosswise into fine threads pan, stand the pork up, fat side the plate . Then slide the pancake
I medium negi or 3 fat scallions down, while holding it upright back into the pan. Cook over
(spring onions), finely chopped with a pair of tongs, and sear over medium heat until cooked through
• 4 tablespoons sakura e bi high heat for 30 seconds to render and the bottom is lightly browned,
[small dried shrimp] the fat. Lay the chop down and about 4 more minutes. Repeat for
4 eggs, at room temperature sear I minute on both sides. Cover the second pancake.
2 tablespoons canola (rapeseed) oil and cook over medium heat for
tablespoon aonori
• I 30 seconds more on each side. Slide each okonomjyakionto a larg e
[powdered green nori] Remove to a cutting board and let clean plate . Smear each with
2 tablespoons finely julienned rest 5 minutes . Then cut into fine 2 tablespoons of the Worcestershire-
benishoga [pickled red ginger] "sticks" . ketchup mixture (this takes the
2 handfuls freshly shaved katsuobushi place of okonomjyakisauce), sprinkle
or hanalcatsuo In a small bowl, stir the with ½ tablespoon aonori,
2 tablespoons Japanese Mayonnaise Worcestershire sauce and ketchup I tablespoon benishoga,and a handful
(optiorurl; page 32) together . of katsuobushi
. Squeeze a little
Japanese mayonnaise, if using,
In a larg e bowl, whisk together the over the top in a crosshatch or
flour and remaining ½ teaspoon wiggly pattern . Cut into wedges
salt . Add the pork, cabbage , negi, and serve hot.
shrimp, and eggs using a pair of
saibashi[cooking chopsticks] . Slowly
mix in ½ cup (4 fl oz/125 mi) water
to form a loose, chunky batter .
Heat 2 large lightweight frying

pans over medium-low heat. Once
you can feel the heat rising from
the pans, add I tablespoon canola
(rapeseed) oil to each pan . Ladle
half of the batter into each pan,
smearing it around in a circular
motion to evenly distribute the
ingredients across the surface of
the pan . Cover and cook slowly

•
menru1
NOODLES
MENRUI - NOODLES
Noodles may be the most loved food in Japan.

Saba noodles were commonly eaten in mountain
areas, where buckwheat was grown as a rotational crop.
Mountain towns all around Japan are still known for their
unpretentious local soba shops , and in urban areas, soba
can also reach haute cuisine levels similar to sushi. In such
shops , the elegance of the surroundings and the dishware are
essential to the whole package. In addition to the noodles,
the menu typically includes top-quality sashimi and semi-
kaiseki-style-kappo ryori [fine dining] dishes.
Udon, although often served at soba restaurants, is more
of a plain spun noodle and in our area (a couple of hours
northwest of Tokyo) was eaten every night for dinner.
Farmers in the flat lands once grew wheat and rice to feed
their families : Rice was consumed at breakfast and lunch,
and homemade udon noodles were prepared for the evening
meal. Dressed vegetable side dishes (aemono, page 58)
accompanied the udon. These days, udon noodles are typically
served with a side bowl of warm dashi flavored with soy sauce
and mirin. Yakumi[garnishes] at their simplest , consist of
chopped negi [fat scallions (spring onions)] and ground
toasted sesame seeds.
Ramen, a transplant from China, is firmly implanted in
the Japanese food landscape in Japan and around the world.
With plenty of ramen shops in every town, ramen is rarely made
at home (not counting the instant versions). However, some
enthusiastic cooks do tackle making it from scratch as a fun
home meal.
Somen, ultra fine hand-pulled noodles, is ubiquitous in
the summer and often served in a cold soup, though is also
lovely in hot broth.
276 li!iffi MENRUI - NOODLES

HITTSUMI
Preparation time , 30 minutes, plus Called hittsumi in Iwate prefecture, Fill a large , wide pot with water and
2 hours resting time the basic preparation for these bring to a boil over high heat. Fill a
Cooking time, 10-15 minutes dumplings is found all over large bowl with cold water and place
Serves, 6 Japan. Although the shape near the pot of boiling water.
varies by region , th e dumplings
1% cups (8¾ oz/250 g) udon flour are commonly eaten in hearty Working quickly, pinch off a
• l pinch fine sea salt country vegetable soups. They are small piece of dough and flatten
equally good as a bed for a cold it into a 4-inch (10 cm) square
summer salad (Summer Salad with about ¼-inch (6 mm) thin. Tear
Dumpling s, page 68). This is a off small ragged pieces of dough
great group cooking experience (roughly ¾-inch /2 cm strips),
if you have some able hands at dropping them into the pot as you
the ready. go. Continue dropping the flat
pieces of dough into the boiling
Measure the flour and salt into a water , but do not crowd. Once
medium bowl. Work in ½ cup the dough pieces bob back up to
(4 fl oz/ 125 ml) warm water to form the surface of the water , cook for
a stiff, yet pliable d o ugh. Knead the 3-5 minutes more before fishing
dough for about 100 turns , drop them out and sliding into the bowl
into a reseal able food storage bag, of cold water. Drain and shake off
and let rest for at least 2 hours. before using.
(The dough can be made the night
before .)
ONE-POT SEAFOOD UDON
Preparation time: IO minutes A cross between nabe (one-pot dish) In a medium donabe [flameproof
Cooking time, 15 minutes and udon, unusually, this dish is casserole] or Dutch oven
- Serves, 6 baked in the oven . (casserole), heat the broth over
medium-high heat. Add the
½ lb (225 g) maitake Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C/ cooked udon, shrimp (prawns),
7 oz (200 g) spinach Gas Mark 5) . maitake, and negi. Cover and bake
5 ½ cups (45 fl oz/ r. 32 liters) Hot for IO minutes . Remove from the
Noodle Broth (Kaketsuyu , page 157) Slice the ends off of the maitakeand oven, stir in the crab and spinach,
• Udon (page 280) or l lb 2 oz (500 g) break into pieces about the size of cover, and return to the oven for
dried udon noodles, cooked according to the shrimp . Slice the spinach stems 5 minutes .
the package directions into 3/+- inch (2 cm) pieces and the
• 12 large shrimp (prawns), peeled leaves into 1½-inch (4 cm) pieces . Serve in 6 large, donburi[de ep
and deveined soup bowls] , distributing all of the
• 4 thin negi or 6 fat scallions (spring ingredients evenly. Splash in a little
onions), cut crosswise into 1½-inch pom:.uto taste, if desired.
(3 cm) pieces
7 oz (200 g) fresh crabmeat, picked
over for shells and cartilage
• Ponzu (optional)
277 MENRUI - NOODLES

ONE-POT CHICKEN WITH UDON
Preparation time, 25 minutes, plus The clams add a depth to this [flameproof earthenware casserole]
I hour soaking time warming nabe. Serve on a cold or enameled cast-iron pot and heat
Cooking time: 30 minutes winter night when you have over medium heat on a portable
Serves: 4 company to help . Substitute dried tabletop burner.
udonif you want to save a little time,
12 medium-small clams though using homemade makes a Drain the udon, place on a dinner
• 2 tablespoons fme sea salt big difference. plate , and take to the table. Put the
· Udon (page 280) clams in a bowl and arrange the
• % lb (300 g) sasami [chicken tenders] Scrub the clams and soak in a bowl chicken, shiitake,and cabbage and
or chicken breast with 5 cups (42 fl oz/1.25 liters) spinach rolls on a platter. Bring the
(cut into ½-inch/12 mm cubes) cold water and the fine sea salt for bowl with the clams and the platter
· ½ teaspoon flaky sea salt I hour. Drain and flush with several to the table with the negi,ponzu, and
• 2 tablespoons sake changes of cold water to get rid of a bowl for discarded clamshells.
· 5 cups (42 fl oz/1.25 liters) the sand. Scoop out of the water
Katsuobushi Dashi (page 156) and place in a wire-mesh sieve Give each person a small bowl for
• 4 tablespoons soy sauce to drain . eating the nabe. Put about half of
• 2 tablespoons mirin each ingredient into the casserole ,
8 medium shiitake , stems discarded Make the udon and cook according each in its own place, and cook at a
• Napa Cabbage and Spinach Rolls to the recipe directions. Leave in brisk simmer over medium heat for
(page 187), cut into fat rounds the bowl of cold water until ready about 5 minutes. Ladle out some
2 tablespoons finely chopped negi or to use . of each ingredient, along with the
scallion (spring onions), for serving broth, into the small bowls and
• Ponzu , for serving In a small bowl, toss the chicken season with a dash of ponzu and a
pieces with the flaky salt, then the sprinkle of negi. Eat hot. Once all
sake. In a small pitcher, stir together of the first half of ingredients have
the dashi, soy sauce , and mirin. been served, replenish with the
Pour 3 1h cups (27 fl oz/800 mi) remaining dashiand ingredients and
of the seasoned dashiinto a donabe cook and serve .
UDON WITH CHICKEN

AND NEGI
Preparation time: IO minutes Using Hot Noodle Broth (page Divide the cooked udon among 6
Cooking time: 5 minutes 157) instead of chicken broth makes large, donburi [deep soup bowls],
Serves, 6 this dish possible to be assembled portion out the soup, sprinkle with
on the fly when in a hurry. shichimitogarashi(if using) , and serve .
4½ cups (37 fl oz/I.I liters) Hot
Noodle Broth (Kaketsuyu, page 157) In a medium pot, heat the broth
• I lb 2 oz (500 g) boneless, skinless over medium-high heat. Add the
chicken thighs, cut the into ½-inch chicken, negi, and shimejiand once
(12 mm) cubes the soup returns to a simmer ,
• 7 oz (200 g) medium-thick negi or adjust to medium heat and cook
9 fat scallions (spring onions), cut until the negiand mushrooms have
crosswise, into ¾-inch (2 cm) pieces softened and the chicken is cooked
2% oz (75 g) shimeji, bottoms sliced through, 3-5 minutes .
off, broken apart
7 oz (200 g) dried udon noodles,
cooked according to the package
directions
powder], optional
MENRUI - NOODLES
NIKOMI UDON
Preparation time , 5 minutes Nikomi udon (simmered udon) is Cook and cool the udon according
Cooking time, 5 minutes the ultimate Japanese farmhouse to the recipe. Place the soup in a
Serves, 6 comfort food, and can be reheated saucepan. Drain the noodles and
and eaten over the course of a few slide into the soup. Simmer to heat
Udon (page 280) days. Hittsumi (page 277) can be up , then ladle into large donburi
Hearty Japanese broth-based soup , used in place of the homemade udon [deep soup bowls] to serve.
Sweet Potato Country Soup (page 168) or because they inflate and melt in
"Raccoon Dog " Soup (page 172) the same way , but don't substitute
dried udon here. If the soup you
select (see ingredients) is thickened
with potato starch , omit it , as the
noodles will add starch to the soup.
SUIGYOZA
Preparation time, 30 minutes, plus Suigyo{ll[dumplings] are typically Place one wrapper in the palm of
30 minutes resting time stuffed with pork and shrimp , your hand and spoon I tablespoon
Cooking time, 15 minutes but here they are lighter and of the filling onto the center of the
Makes , 20 juicier, thanks to the addition of dough . Dip an index finger into
cucumber. You will find homemade cold water, and wet the perimeter
l cup (150 g) unbleached bread gyozato be chewier than those made of the dough round. Pull the edges
(strong) flour from store-bought wrappers, of the dough round up so they meet
IO oz (300 g) finely ground but this gives them an appealing in the center over the filling. Close
(minced) pork heartiness . the dumpling by folding over the
½ tablespoon potato starch front flap to make 1/•-inch (5 mm)
2% oz (75 g) Japanese cucumber, Measure the flour into a medium pleats at 11•-inch (5 mm) intervals,
finely chopped bowl and slowly incorporate ½ cup while pressing the pleated front
3 tablespoons finely chopped negi or (4 fl oz/ 125 ml) water. Knead on a side to the smooth backside to make
scallions (spring onions) well-floured board until the dough a well-sealed dumpling. (If this
l tablespoon finely chopped achieves the soft give of an earlobe . technique eludes you, no need to
fresh ginger (Depending on weather and flour, obsess , just wet the inside edges and
I egg, at room temperature you might need to add more flour.) press closed to make a smooth half
• I teaspoon flaky sea salt Cover with a dampened non- moon dumpling.)
½ teaspoon freshly ground terrycloth towel and leave to rest for
black pepper 30 minutes . Bring a large pot of water to a
tablespoon gold sesame oil
I boil over high heat. Drop the
• Soy sauce, for serving Place the pork in a bowl and sift suigyo
za into the pot and cook until
• Rice vinegar, for serving the potato starch over it. Add they bob back up to the surface,
Rayu [red chile oil], for serving the cucumber, negi,ginger, egg, 5-7 minutes. Cook for 5-7 more
salt , pepper , and sesame oil and minutes , then scoop out into
mix thoroughly until all of the individual small bowls with a bit
ingredients are distributed and the of the simmering water .
meat is a well-amalgamated mass.
Give each person a small dish for
On a floured work surface, roll the mixing their own dipping sauce,
dough into a log with a 2-inch about equal parts soy sauce and
(5 cm) diameter. Cut the dough vinegar , with a drizzle of r'!Yu.
into I 1/•-inch (3 cm) pieces with
a pastry scraper or pizza cutter.
Roll the dough pieces out into
thin rounds 4 inches (ro cm) in
diameter. Flour lightly, and line
up on your work space.

ISLAND SOMEN WITH RED
CHILE AND GARLIC CHIVES
Preparation time, IO minutes Somen noodles are the quintessential (To compensate for the blandness
Cooking time, I minute summer food and are all about of the noodles, the dashishould
Serves, 6 the aromatics you serve alongside. be a touch saltier than you would
Typical garnishes include any of normally make it.) Keep warm. Or
3 3/• cups (30 fl oz/900 mi) Iriko Dashi the following, slivered cucumber, if it is summer and you' re serving
(page 157) ginger, ":!)logo,
finely chopped the noodles cold, chill the dashi.
½ teaspoon flaky sea salt scallions (spring onions), thin egg
1
• /.+teaspoon soy sauce threads, shiso, and nori. OnAmami In a pot of boiling water, cook
3 (1% oz/5og) bundles somen Oshima, an island between Kyushu the somenfor I minute. Drain and
I small fresh red chile, preferably and Okinawa in Southern Japan, refresh in icy water .
japones , sliced into fine rounds they prepare ,omen with only a few
· 2 garlic chives, finely chopped garnishes, but the result is bright Drop a dollop of noodles into
and flavorful. Somen can be served each of 6 round bowls, ladle in the
with either warm or cold broth- warm broth, sprinkle with I pinch
here it is warm . Besure to use two of chile , and a scattering of garlic
whole charlic chives, not just two leaves. chives. Serve immediately.
In a saucepan , warm the dashiand

season with the salt and soy sauce.
UDON
Preparation time, 45 minutes, plus Although hand-rolled udon Flatten the dough into a disk,
30 minutes resting time might seem intimidating to the sprinkle both sides lightly with
Cooking time, 5 minutes uninitiated, it is a fairly easy noodle flour, and roll out to a rectangle
Serves, 6 to make at home . Nonetheless, you 1/1• inch (2 mm) thick. Slice into
will achieve the best results if you noodles % inch (r cm) wide and
¼ teaspoon fine sea salt use a noodle rolling machine. Serve toss with some flour. Alternatively,
2½ cups (13¼ oz/375 g) unbleached with the dipping sauce of your u se a seimenki[noodle-rolling
udon flour choice or slide into the leftovers of machine] or a pasta machine.
a nabe (page 349) for a last filling
bite . Place 2 large bowls in the kitchen
sink and fill with cold water. Cook
In a bowl, whisk the salt into the the noodles in 2 batches, Toss half
flour and mix in ½ cup of the noodles into the boiling
(4 fl oz/ 120 ml) water with a pair water and gently agitate to separate
of saibashi[cooking chopsticks]. the noodles. Boil for 2 minutes,
Once the dough becomes too scoop out with a bamboo noodle
difficult to mix, switch to your scooper or wire-mesh sieve, and
hands . Knead on a lightly floured plunge into the first bowl of cold
board, dropping in a little more water. Swish around to cool, then
water if necessary , to form a stiff , scoop out and drop into the second
smooth dough. Knead for a total bowl of cold water. (If the water
of 10-15 minutes to activate the in either bowl has warmed , run
gluten. Wet a non-terrycloth tea cold water in to cool.) Repeat with
towel, squeeze dry , and wrap around remaining noodles.
the dough . Let rest for 30 minutes.
Scoop each batch of udon onto
Meanwhile, fill a large pot with hot a z.aru[bamboo noodle basket]
water and bring to a boil. lined with a dinner plate , or
swirled into three piles directly
on the dinner plate .
280 iUi'i MENRUI - NOODLES

SPINACH AND UDON SOUP
Preparation time: 20 minutes Spinach came to Japan from China In a separate large pot of boiling
Cooking time, 5 minutes during the Muromachi period water, cook the spinach for
Serves, 6 (1336 - 1573), and this soup has its l minute, refresh under cold
roots in China as well. The chicken running water, then squeeze dry.
3 eggs, at room temperature _soup and egg lend richness to this Cut crosswise into thirds.
• 14 oz (400 g) spinach quick noodle soup. Spinach is the
4 1/ 2 oz (125 g) dried udon dominant ingredient with small In the same pot of boiling water,
l quart (32 fl oz/r liter) Japanese amount of udon to add a bit of cook the udon according to the
Chicken Broth (page 160) , heated starch. Fresh eggs are impossible package directions. Rinse in a large
• 'I•teaspoon flaky sea salt to peel , so cutting through the bowl of cold water .
• ¾ teaspoon soy sauce shell and scooping them out makes
Shichimi togarashi [seven-spice swift work of this onerous task . To serve, portion out the udon into
powder] , optional Conversely, old eggs peel easily. 6 large donburi [deep soup bowls].
Freshly ground black pepper (optional) Top each bowl with the spinach and
Bring a small saucepan of water ½egg.Pour the hot chicken broth
to a boil. Add the eggs and cook into the bowl and sprinkle with 1-
until just set , but not runny, 2 pinches of salt and shichimitogarashi
8 minutes . Cool completely under or black pepper, if desired. Serve
cold, running water. Slice in half immediately.
(through the shell) with a sharp
knife and scoop out the egg halves
with a spoon .
FIVE-COLOR UDON
Preparation time: IO minutes -- - Using top - quality dried udon or Portion the cooked udon noodles
Cooking time: 5 minutes soba noodles makes this an excellent into 6 large donburi [deep soup
Serves: 6 quick and easy supper when you are bowls] and ladle the hot soup over
busy. Preparing these with fresh the noodles . Serve immediately,
½ lb (225 g) pork tenderloin (fillet), Udon (page 280), however, will sprinkled with ichimitogarashi.
finely sliced make this a truly gorgeous meal.
I¾ oz (50 g) shungiku [edible
chrysanthemum greens] or spinach Cut the pork , shungiku, and negi
5¼ oz (150 g) thin negi or 5 fat crosswise into ¾-inch (2 cm)
1
scallions (spring onions) pieces . Cut the carrot into /-te-inch
I medium carrot, scrubbed (6 mm) half- or quarter-rounds,
Generous 4 cups (33 fl oz/ 990 ml) Hot depending on the thickness of its
Noodle Broth (Kaketsuyu, page 157) diameter.
6 small shiitake, stems discarded and
caps quartered In a heavy medium pot, heat the
7 oz (200 g) dried udon noodles , broth over high heat. Add the negi,
cooked according to the directions on carrot, and shiitake. Reduce the heat
the package to medium-high and cook at a
lchimi togarashi [powdered Japanese brisk simmer until softened, about
red chile], for serving 3 minutes. Stir in the pork and
shungikuand cook for l additional
minute.
MENRUI - NOODLES
RAMEN
Preparation time, 2 hours plus lnjapan, there are ramenshops wide. Cut those noodles crosswise
30 minutes resting time in every town. However , here into 9-inch (22 cm) lengths with
Cooking time , 2 hours 15 minutes is a home-style ramen recipe for a pizza cutter. Sprinkle the noodles
Serves, 6 those who want to try making it generously with flour and toss
themselves . the flour into th e noodles , to help
For the broth, prevent sticking, but keep the
4 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs Make the broth, noodles aligned.
(1½ lb/675 g total) Position a rack in the center of
2 small carrots, cut into 1¼-inch the oven and preheat to 450°F Fill a large pot three-quarters full
(3 cm) lengths (230°C/Gas Mark 8). of water and bring to a boil over
7 oz (200 g) small negi or fat scallions high heat.
(spring onions), cut into 1¼ inch In a large bowl , toss the chicken ,
(3 cm) lengths carrots, negi, and ginger with the Bring the broth to a simmer over
I ¾-inch (2 cm) piece fresh ginger, salt. Rub with the sesame oil and medium-high heat and adjust to
thinly sliced crosswise dump onto a rimmed baking sheet. a bare simmer . Prepare 6 large
• I teaspoon flaky sea salt Roast for 35 minutes until nicely donburi[deep soup bowls]. Measure
2 tablespoons gold sesame oil browned . in one salt flavoring of choice
per bowl, 2 tablespoons miso, 4
For the noodles, Scrape the roasted chicken and teaspoons soy sauce, or 3/+ teaspoon
2 cups (IO½ oz/300 g) best-quality vegetables into a large heavy pot salt. Whisk 4 table spoons broth
unbleached all-purpose (plain) flour, and add 4 quarts (4 liters) cold into each bowl to emulsify the
plus more for sprinkling water. Bring almost to a boil over flavoring.
• 2 tablespoons gold sesame oil high heat, reduce to a simmer , and
· 2 eggs, at room temperature cook, covered, for I hour. Add the noodles to the boiling
2 egg yolks , at room temperature water and cook for 2 minutes.
Scoop out the chicken thighs and While the noodles are cooking, add
For the salt flavorings (choose one), shred the meat off the bones into about I½ cups (12 fl oz/350 ml)
Brown rice miso a medium bowl. Wet the chicken broth into each bowl and whisk to
• Soy sauce meat with a small scoop of broth . combine with the flavoring liquid.
• Fine sea salt Return the bones to the pot and Drain the noodles and divide the
continue simmering the broth, noodles among the bowls. Working
For the toppings, --- uncovered, for 30 minutes. Strain quickly (so the broth does not
7 oz (200 g) komatsuna Uapanese into a clean medium pot and cool), keeping each ingredient
mustard greens], bok choy, or spinach , discard the bones and vegetables. in its own area, add 2 heaping
blanched , squeezed, and chopped tablespoons chicken meat ,
· 3 tablespoons finely chopped negi or Meanwhile , make the noodles, 2 heaping tablespoons greens,
scallions (spring onions) Place the flour in a large bowl ½ tablespoon negi, an egg half , and
• 3 eggs , at room temperature, boiled for and drizzle in the sesame oil. Mix a small piece of nori. If desired, add
8 minutes , refreshed, peeled, and halved with your fingers until pebbly . spice with rcryu(for soy sauce ramen),
lengthwise Make a well and break in the whole y= kosho(for salt ramen) or shichimi
· I sheet nori, cut into sixths eggs and yolks. Mix with your togarashi(for miso ramen).
• Rayu [chile oil], optional fingers until the eggs and flour
• Yuzu kosho [chile pastel, optional are incorporated, but the dough
Shichimi togarashi [seven-spice is still a bit crumbly . Turn out
powder], optional onto a work surface and knead
until smooth and pliable , about
5 minutes. Let the dough rest for
at least 30 minutes.
Roll the dough out using a seimenki

[no od le -rolling machine] or Italian
pasta machine . Then cut the dough
into thin noodles 1/s inch (3 mm)
MENRUI - NOODLES
SOBA
Preparation time: 30 minutes This recipe and method for nihachi- Fold the dough in halflengthwise,
Cooking time: 5 minutes style sobawas graciously shared by then in half again to form a long
Serves: 6 Sonoko Sakai, a Los Angeles-based thin folded log. With a fine, sharp
soba "guru" who has dedicated knife , cut into thin noodles
2% cups (14 oz/400 g) soba ko [fine the last several years to perfecting 1/ 1• inch (r.5 mm) wide. Dust the
buckwheat flour] her craft and to improving the noodles with more of the uchiko,
% cup (3 1/2 oz/Joo g) unbleached buckwheat flour in the United making sure some of the flour
all-purpose (plain) flour States. Nihachi-style sobacontains gets between the noodle strands
l cup (3'h oz/J50 g) uchiko flour 8 parts sobako (fine buckwheat to prevent them from sticking
or potato starch, for dusting flour) and 2 parts all-purpose together . If not cooking right away,
• Noodle Dipping Broth (page 157), (plain) flour. gently gather handfuls of noodles
for serving (optional) and align straight in a wooden
Finely chopped negi or scallion (spring In a large bowl, combine the soba or plastic container. Cover and
onion), for serving (optional) ko and all-purpose (plain) flour refrigerate up to 2 days.
Finely grated fresh wasabi, for serving with your fingers . For the water ,
(optional) you will need 45-50 percent of Fill a large pot three-quarters
the total weight of the flours: of the way with water and bring to
For 500 g (17 1/2 oz) flour, that a rolling boil over high heat.
translates to 225 - 250 g (8 - 9 oz)
water , which is a generous ¾-I cup Prepare a large bowl of cold water
(7-8½ fl oz/210-250 ml) . Measure in the sink and a medium bowl of
the maximum amount into a cup / ice water.
jug with a pour spout.
Gather the soba noodles up gently
Sprinkle ¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons in two hands and drop into the
(7 fl oz/210 ml) of the water over boiling water. As soon as the water
the flours in the bowl and scissor returns to a boil, cook for
your fingers through the dough 60-90 seconds, depending on
until crumbly. Press the dough thickness. Scoop out the noodles
together with both hands to form a and plunge into the bowl of cold
rough ball and transfer it to a large, water . Rinse under cold running
flat work surface . Knead the dough water for several minutes to remove
until smooth and pliable , about starch. Scoop the soba out of the
5 minutes. This will take some water with a wire-mesh sieve and
elbow grease because the dough will dip the sieve in and out of the bowl
be stiff, but don ' t flag or lose heart. of ice water to shock. Shake off and
Depending on the weather and the serve with noodle dipping broth ,
flours , the dough might want a bit chopped negi, and a dab of freshly
more moisture . If the dough feels grated wasabi, or with one of the
dry or continues to have cracks, dip soba soups in this chapter.
your fingertips in the remaining
water and rub it around the dough.
Continue kneading and adding
water , if needed, until the dough
achieves the desired consistency.
Form the dough into a disk ½ inch

(12 mm) thick and sprinkle with a
small amount of uchikoflour. Using
a long , thin rolling pin or dowel,
roll the dough back and forth from
the center into a rectangle 1/16 inch
(r.5 mm) thick . Dust the dough
and work surface generously with
the uchikoflour and flip the dough
to make sure it is well covered in
the flour.

OSAKA KITSUNE SOBA
Preparation time: IO minutes This traditional dish can be made chicken, shiitake, and negiinto the
Cooking time, 5 minutes with either sobaor udon noodles . broth and simmer for 5 minutes.
Serves, 4 Here dried noodles are specified, Add the usuageduring the last
but fresh noodles are also an option. minute of cooking.
2 usuage [deep-fried tofu pouches].
halved lengthwise Place the usuagein a wire-mesh Divide the noodles among 4 large ,
• Boiling water sieve . Pour a steady stream of donburi [deep soup bowls] and ladle
4 dried shiitake, soaked in l cup boiling water over them for the soup over them. Sprinkle with
(8 fl oz/250 mi) boiling water for IO seconds to remove oil odors . shichimitogarashiand serve.
30 minutes Cut the usuagecrosswise into strips
• Hot Noodle Broth ¼ inch (6 mm) wide. Reserving
(Kaketsuyu, page 157) the soaking liquid , pluck out the
½ lb (225 g) boneless, skinless chicken shiitake, discard the stems, and and
breast, cut into %-inch (15 mm) pieces thickly slice the caps.
• 2 thin negi or 3 fat scallions (spring
onions), cut crosswise into 1¼ ,-inch In a medium pot, heat the broth
(2 cm) pieces over medium-high heat. Add the
• 61/, oz (180 g) driedJapanese soba, shiitakesoaking liquid but be careful
cooked according to the directions on to stop pouring before the end
the package to avoid adding the sediment at
Shichimi togarashi [seven - spice the bottom of the bowl. Slide the
powder]. for serving
JAPANESE CHICKEN
NOODLE SOUP
Preparation time, 25 minutes This soup comes together quickly Divide the cooked udon among
Cooking time, 5 minutes if you have chicken stock in the 4 large donburi [deep soup bowls]
Serves, 4 freezer . It is good to serve to and ladle in the soup. Garnish with
someone who is feeling poorly. the scallions (spring onions), chile,
Generous 3 cups (25 fl oz/750 ml) and yuzu zest.
Japanese Chicken Broth (page 160) In a soup pot, bring the chicken
• 2 tablespoons soy sauce broth to a simmer over medium-
• l large pinch of flaky sea salt high heat. Stir in the soy sauce, salt,
4 medium shiitake, stems discarded and shiitake,and chicken . Reduce the
caps sliced ¼ inch (6 mm) thick heat to medium-low and cook for
• 3 1/2 oz (100 g) boneless , skinless 5 minutes at a gentle simmer.
chicken breast, cut into strips 1/+inch
(6 mm) wide
• 3 1/2 oz (100 g) dried udon noodles,
cooked according to the directions on
the package and refreshed in a large bowl
of cold water
• l tablespoon finely chopped scallions
(spring onions)
I small dried red japones chile, cut into
fine rings
Zest of 1/2 yuzu or 'I• Meyer lemon, cut
into fine threads
MENRUI - NOODLES
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
gohan
RICE
GOHAN - RICE
In Japanese , uncooked rice is called kome and cooked rice,

gohan. Cohan also means food, or a meal, underscoring how
important rice is to the traditional Japanese diet. And the
daily rice of Japan isJaponica , short grain rice that contains
many cultivars such as the popular koshihikari and hitome bore.
Without question , the obligatory bowl of white rice
that accompanies almost every Japanese meal (except when
there are noodles) is still by far the most eaten dish in
Japan. However, things are changing. Sadly, puffy white
bread seems to have surpassed the bowl of rice for breakfast.
Convenience and speed probably have something to do with
this phenomenon , since bread can be popped in the toaster
and ready in a matter of seconds, whereas rice takes at least
a half hour. Also , since post-WWII Japan is more urban
than agrarian, the connection between the family rice field
and the precious grains in one's bowl-customary before the
war-is fading.
Other than plain rice , there are dishes that use leftover
rice, like fried rice . There are also rice-based dishes such
as h'!Yashiraisu (Shrimp and Pea Rice, page 316), which need
a spe cific amount of rice (so not good for leftovers). And
not to be forgotten is the beloved national dish , Curry
Rice (page ~97). Though not terribly common, a small
percentage of Japanese favors brown rice. In keeping with
its relatively minimal presence in Japanese cuisine , the only
recipe in the book is just how to cook it (see Brown Rice,
opposite page).
290 iftli6& GOHAN - RICE

JAPANESE RICE
Preparation time, 5 minute s, plu s The unit of measure for rice is a out any dust or d eb ri s. Drain th e
30 minu t es soaking tim e go, which is 6 fl oz/180 ml , and water. Dig your hand into the ri ce
Cooking time , 15 minute s h er e the rec ipe is for 3 -go (18 fl and scrub with your fingers to
Makes, 5 cups (2 lb / 900 g) oz/54 0 ml) of rice. Whil e the go dislodge bran . Flush with water and
measurement is still used in J apan drain seve ral times until the water
2¼ cups (1 lb / 450 g) uncooked in certain applications, most runs almost clear . Add 2¼ cups
J apa nese rice modern Japanese use a 200-ml (18 fl oz/540 ml) water to the pot ,
cup (about 7 fl oz). Nonetheles s, cover, and let soak for 30 minutes.
the go measurement is quite handy,
as it is measured using calibrated Bring to a boil over high he at. This
wooden boxes useful for scooping, will take about 4 minutes . Reduce
in unit s of 1-go, 3- go, 5-go , IO-go. the heat to low and cook for about
Sometimes the old way is bett er IO minutes. Remov e from the h eat
than the new . and let re st for 5 minut es befor e
fluffing with a rice paddl e or a
Measure the rice into a heavy wooden spoon and serving .
medium cast-iron pot. Fill with
water to the top of the pot to wash
BROWN RICE
Preparation time: 5 minutes , Brown rice is not as popular in co ld wat er , and so ak overnight.
plu s overnight soaking Japan as abroad, but it is slowly Bring to a boil , covered, and cook
Cooking time , 30 minutes gaining ground. over low heat for 30 minu tes. Rest
Serves, 6 for 20 minutes to allow the grains
Rinse the rice in a medium h eavy to continue to swell , before fluffing
1% cups (12 oz/350 g) uncooked short- pot of cold water. Drain , fill a pot and serving.
grain brown rice with 2½ cups (20 fl oz/600 ml)
SUSHI RICE
Prepara tion time, 15 minutes , plus Japanese rice is often labeled "sushi Cook and rest the rice according
30 minutes soaking time rice " abroad, but to be accurate, to the method for Japanese Ric e
Cooking time, 15 minutes the term "sushi rice " refers to rice (above). Turn out onto a handai
Makes, 5 cups (1.2 liters) mixed with sweet vinegar , which is [wide wooden tub] or large wood en
then used for sushi dishes. board. Sprinkle the surface of
2 'I•cups (1 lb / 450 g) uncooked the rice evenly with the sweetened
Jap anese rice Wash the rice according to the vinegar. Cut and fold the rice with
2 tablespoons sake directions inJapanese Rice (above) . a rice paddle or a wooden spoon,
4-inch (IO cm) square piece konbu Drain and add 2¼ cups while fanning with an uchiwa[flat
4 tablespoons rice vinegar (18 fl oz/ 540 ml) wat er. fan] or stiff piece of cardboard
• 2 tablespoons mirin until the rice grains have absorbed
• I teaspoon fine sea salt Repl ace 2 tablespoons of the wat er, all of the vinegar and cooled until
with the sake, drop in konbu, and just barely warm . Cover with a
soa k for 30 minutes . damp muslin cloth until ready to
use . Do not refrigerate.
In a small bowl, mix together
the vinegar, mirin, and salt . Stir
occasionally to dissolve the salt.
GO HAN - RICE
SCATTERED SUSHI
Preparation time, l hour 20 minutes Prepared for festive days, chirashi zushi 11/•-inch (3 cm) julienne strips , and
Cooking time, 45 minutes is a form of deconstructed su shi place in a small bowl. Cool the dashi,
Serves , 8 where the ingredients are scattered then add to the beans .
over the surface of the sushi rice,
For the rice , rather than rolled together inside In a small saucepan, combine the
1% cups (12 oz/ 335 g) uncooked a sheet of nori. In its most glorious remaining% cup (5 fl oz/150 ml)
Japanese rice rendition, chirashizushiinvolve s many ,
katsuobushidashi, the usukuchish'?)'u
1% cups (13 fl oz/ 400 ml) Konbu different ingredients. Simplify by and the remaining ½ tablespoon
Dashi (page 156) selecting a handful of the treatments mirin and bring to a rolling boil
3 tablespoons rice vinegar below. Breaking down this recipe is over high heat. Add the bamboo
I½ tablespoons organic sugar th e key to rendering it less daunting. shoot, reduce the heat to medium,
I teaspoon fine sea salt and cook until the liquid has
Prepare the rice: Wash the rice evaporated, 5-8 minutes.
For the vegetables, according to the directions in
Generous 13/ • cups (15 fl oz/ 450 ml) Japanese Rice (page 291) ; drain. Make the egg threads, Beat the
Katsuobushi Dashi (page 156) Place in a heavy medium pot and eggs with a fork until emulsified
• 4½ t ablespoons mirin add the konbudashi. Soak for 20 but not frothy . Stir in the mirin and
• l 1/• teaspoons fine sea salt minutes. In a small bowl, combine salt. In a large frying pan, heat
l small carrot, scrubbed and cut into th e vinegar , sugar, and salt . l teaspoon oil over medium heat,
1'/• -in ch (3 cm) long julienne threads until shimmering. Pour in a third
½ oz (15 g) kanpyo [dried gourd], M eanwhile, prepare the vegetables, of the egg mixture, and swirl it
about 4 strands In a small saucepan, combine around to achieve an even coating.
4 dried shiitake , soaked in I cup % cup (5 fl oz/150 ml) of the Cook for l minute, flip, and cook
(8 fl oz/ 250 ml) boiling water for katsuobushi dashi, I tablespoon of the for 30 seconds. Turn out onto a
30 minutes mirin, and 'I• teaspoon of the salt board to cool. Repeat twice with the
· 2 tablespoons soy sauce and bring to a lively simmer. Add remaining oil and eggs. Once cool ,
· 6 green beans, topped the carrot and cook until the liquid roll up like cigars and cut cro sswise
2 teaspoons usukuchi shoyu has evaporated , 5-7 minutes . into 'I• inch (6 mm) wide ribbons.
3 1/ 2 oz (100 g) bamboo shoot, peeled Toss to separate.
and cut lengthwise into quarters or sixths Massage ½ teaspoon of the salt into
and then crosswise into '/•-inch (6 mm) the kanJ!Yoand rinse with cold water. Cook the rice, Cook and rest
bite-size pieces Place in a small saucepan, cover with the rice according to the general
cold water , and bring to a boil. Drain directions for Japanese Rice (page
For the egg threads, and return the kanJ!Yo
to the pan. 291), but adjust the cooking time.
3 medium eggs , at room temperature The rice will take 3 minutes to boil
· ½ tablespoon mirin Re serving the soaking liquid , and cooks for 8 minutes on low
'I• teaspoon fine sea salt discard the shiitakestems and heat. Turn out into a handai[flat
l tablespoon canola (rapeseed) oil transfer the caps to the pan with the wooden tub] or onto a large wooden
. Stir in the soaking liquid,
kanJ!Yo cutting board , and spread out while
For the assembly: soy sauce , and 2 tablespoons mirin, wafting with an uchiwa[flat paper
½ sheet nori, snipped into fine threads bring to a simmer over medium- fan] or piece of cardboard. Sprinkle
I tablespoon finely julienned benishoga high heat, and cook until the liquid the flavored rice vinegar as you cut,
[pickled red ginger] evaporates, 8-10 minutes. Thinly turn , spread, and waft until all of
slice the shiitakeand cut the kanJ!Yo the vinegar has been incorporated
into 11/•-inch (3 cm) lengths. and the rice is barely warm and is
shiny but not wet. Spread in the
In a small pan of boiling salted handaior on a large round serving
water, blanch the green beans for platter at least 1'/• inches (3 cm) deep .
l-2 minutes , depending on their
thickne ss. Drain and refresh under As semble the dish: Starting with
cold, running water. Add % cup the nori threads, strew the nori,
(5 fl oz/r50 ml) of the katsuobushi shiitake, kanJ!Yo,bamboo shoot,
dashi, l tablespoon mirin, and the carrot , egg, benishoga, and green
remaining ½ teaspoon salt to a beans . Cover until ready to serve
small (empty) saucepan and bring family-style . Each person should
to a simmer. Add in the beans and cut off portions of the sushi using
cook for I minute . Remove the their chopsticks . Best the same day,
beans from the dashiwith a slotted though fine the next if kept at
spoon, slice on the bias into a cool ambient temperature.
292 lftl)~ GO HAN - RICE

SALAD SUSHI
Preparation time, I hour This dish takes some time to Add the lotus root to the same
Cooking time, 30 minutes prepare, because there are a lot simmering liquid and stir-fry
Serves, 6 of ingredients. Nonetheless, the until glossy and the liquid has
result is worth the effort. Doubling evaporated, I minute . Add
lily bulb , brown parts pared off ,
I or tripling the recipe will not 4 tablespoons sakeand the
"petals " separated add much time , except for the remaining ½ teaspoon of salt and
2 dried shiitake , soaked in boiling water julienning operation. This is a stir-fry for I more minute. Scoop
for 30 minutes great dish to bring to a friend's out the lotus root with a wire-mesh
½ cup (4 fl oz/125 ml) Konbu Dashi house as it holds up at room sieve and slide into the bowl with
(page 156) temperature for several hours. the carrots.
2 tablespoons soy sauce
• I tablespoon mirin In a small pan of lightly salted Add the burdock and stir-fry in
I usuage [deep-fried tofu pouch], water boiling water, blanch the the remaining simmering juices
halved lengthwise lily "petals " for I minute . Refresh until sizzling and the liquid has
• Boiling water under cold , running water evaporated, I minute. Splash in
• I tablespoon gold sesame oil and drain . the remaining 4 tablespoons of
¼ Kyoto - style orange-red carrot sakeand stir-fry over high heat for
or I small carrot (2 % oz/ 7 5 g) , finely Drain the shiitake, remove and I more minute until the liquid has
julienned discard the stems, and thinly slice evaporated . Scrape the burdock
• 'I•cup (6 fl oz/r8o ml) sake the caps. In a saucepan, combine into the bowl with the carrots and
• I teaspoon fine sea salt the shiitake,dashi, soy sauce, and mirin lotus root. Toss in the lily "petals ,"
r'I• oz (50 g) small lotus root , sliced and simmer for about 2 minutes simmered shiitake, usuage,ginkgo
into thin half-rounds, and soaked in a to absorb flavor. Remove from the nuts , and chestnut. Cool to room
small bowl of water with a splash of rice heat and cool in the simmering temperature, about
vinegar liquid. 15 minutes.
• I'I• oz (50 g) thin burdock root ,
scrubbed and finely julienned, and Place the usuagein a wire-mesh sieve In a large serving bowl, cut the
soaked in a small bowl of water with and pour a steady stream of boiling cooled ingredients in the medium
a splash of vinegar water over it for IO seconds. Cut bowl into the cooled rice with
• 12 ginkgo nuts, shelled and skinned crosswise into julienne strips and a rice paddle or a wooden spoon.
(see Note, page 202) blot dry in a clean tea towel. Fold in the sesame seeds and mitsuba
3 vacuum-packed, peeled chestnuts, cut and serve .
into slices 1/• inch (6 mm) wide Heat a large frying pan over
· Japanese Rice (page 291), aerated and medium-high heat. When the
cooled to room temperature heat starts to rise from the surface
I tablespoon white sesame seeds, lightly of the pan, add the sesame oil.
toasted in a small, dry frying pan Stir-fry the carrot until it starts
I handful mitsuba , cut crosswise into to soften, I minute. Splash in
'/•-inch (2 cm) pieces 4 tablespoons of the sake and
½ teaspoon of the salt and stir -
fry for I more minute . Scoop the
carrot out of the simmering liquid
with a wire-mesh sieve and slip into
a medium bowl.
GO HAN - RICE
SOUR PLUM-SCATTERED SUSHI
Preparation time , 35 minutes Chirashizushi [scattered sushi] is not Place the julienned daikonin a
Cooking time, I minute just about the balance of flavors , medium bowl and massage in the
Serves, 6 but also about the colors in the dish flaky sea salt. Let sit for
and commonly involves vibrant IO minutes , lift out the daikonfrom
½ tablespoon fine sea salt yellow egg threads and surimi [hot - any lingering salt, and squeeze
2% oz (75 g) shungiku [edible pink imitation crabmeat]. Here lightly before laying on absorbent
chrysanthemum greens] the sushi rice is "vinegarized" by paper towels to absorb any
· 4 oz (n5 g) daikon, scrubbed and umeboshi[salted sour plum]-rather remaining moisture.
finely julienned than vinegar, sugar, and salt-giving
• I large pinch flaky sea salt the rice a gentle yet puckery base. Cut the chopped umeboshiinto the
4 small umeboshi [salted sour plum], The colors of the dish make an cooked rice with a rice paddle
pitted and finely chopped attractive addition to the table . or a wooden spoon, until well
• Japanese Rice (page 29I) , incorporated and the rice is evenly
aerated and cooled Fill a medium pot three-quarters colored. Smooth the rice in a
½ tablespoon gold sesame seeds, full of water, bring to a boil , add ¾-inch (2 cm) layer onto a large
warmed in a small dry frying pan , and the fine sea salt, and hold the plate. Strew the surface evenly with
slightly smashed in a suribachi [grinding shungikustems in the boiling water the chopped shungiku.Scatter the
bowl] or nut grinder until they have softened, about julienned daikonon top , followed by
• ½ teaspoon anori I minute. Push down the greens to the sesame seeds, and finally
[powdered green nori] blanch for 30 seconds more. Scoop a dusting of aonori.
out with a wire-mesh sieve and
plunge in a bowl of cold water to To serve, cut down to the bottom
refresh. Pick up the greens by their of the plate and use a spatula to
stem ends and squeeze down to the remove sections (to show all the
tip of the leaves to remove excess layers) onto small plates .
water. Squeeze again in absorbent
paper towels, then lay on a cutting [QJ p .295
board and finely chop.
FISH SAUCE-GRILLED
RICE BALLS
Preparation time: IO minutes Slow-grilling over charcoal embers Cup your dominant hand crosswise
Cooking time, IO minutes is the key to these warm rice balls on top to form the top of the
Makes, 9 rice balls that have just a hint of the fish sauce. triangle. Press gently , but firmly ,
taking care not to over compress
2 tablespoons Japanese fish sauce Sprinkle the fish sauce across the the rice.
(preferably anchovy or mackerel ishiri; surface of the rice and cut in with
or sandfish shottsuru) a rice paddle or a wooden spoon Grill over charcoal embers on a
· Japanese Rice (page 29I) to incorporate. Fold in the sesame shichirinUapan es e charcoal brazier]
I tablespoon gold sesame seeds, warmed seeds and katsuobushiuntil evenly or in a small amount of gold
in a small, dry pan until fragrant distributed . sesame oil in a cast - iron pan over
I large handful freshly shaved low heat , until crisped on all sides,
katsuobushi or hanakatsuo Form 9 triangular rice balls, Wet 7-8 minutes. Eat warm.
• Gold sesame oil (optional) the palms of your hands and scoop
up% cup (3 3/+ oz/no g) rice. Place
the rice in your nondominant hand
and cup your hand to form the
bottom of the rice ball.
294 COHAN - RICE

PRESSED SUSHI
Preparation time, 30 minutes Pressed sushi is prepared like chirashi rice, taking care not to neglect
Weighting time, 15 minutes zushi [Scattered Sushi , page 292), the edges and corners. Wetting
Serves, 4-6 but is then pressed. The rice is your fingers again in the vinegar,
packed in a form, such as a square press and spread the remaining
2% oz (75 g) Japanese cucumber, pan with a removable bottom, and rice into the pan. Strew the
julienned after the toppings are scattered remaining ingredients over the top
¼ teaspoon fine sea salt over the rice , a weight is added to layer of rice and spread a layer of
• Sushi Rice (page 291) compact. This makes the rice easier parchment paper across the surface.
• Rice vinegar, for shaping the sushi to cut, and thus convenient as part Set another 8-inch (20 cm) square
½ lb (125 g) fresh crabmeat, picked of a light summer lunch. pan or two 8 x 4-inch (20 x IO cm)
over for shells and cartilage loaf pans on top of the rice, weight
· Egg Threads (page 2 2 2) Toss the cucumber with the salt and with a medium frying pan, and
2 tablespoons finely chopped let sit for 5 minutes. Squeeze gently leave at room temperature for
fresh chives and drop into a small bowl. 15 minutes.
• I tablespoon finely slivered fresh ginger
2 tablespoons white sesame seeds Line the bottom of an 8-inch Remove the weights, run a sharp
• Soy sauce, for dipping (20 em) square cake pan with a knife dipped in rice vinegar around
removable bottom with a piece of the sides , and unmold. Wet the
parchment paper. Spoon half of knife with vinegar again and cut
the rice into the cake pan. Pour a into 16 pieces. Transfer the pieces
little rice vinegar into a small howl , to a pretty platter, leaving the
dip your fingers into the vinegar , parchment paper liner behind.
and gently spread the rice across the Pour a small pool of soy sauce into
bottom of the pan to make an even a saucer and serve on the side for
layer . Strew half of the cucumber, dipping.
crab, egg threads, chives, ginger,
and sesame seeds evenly over the
RICE WITH DAIKON GREENS
Preparation time: IO minutes Tender young daikongreens appear and squeeze down the length of the
Cooking time, 5 minutes at farmers markets in Japan in greens, from the ends to the tips
Serves, 6 the late spring when the farmers to remove excess water . Lay out on
are thinning their young daikonin a cutting board and finely chop.
3 1/2 oz (100 g) young daikon greens the fields. Folding boiled greens Squeeze one more time by handfuls
• I teaspoon flaky sea salt into rice results in a quick and and drop into a medium bowl.
2 tablespoons white sesame seeds, healthy one-dish lunch , and the Toss with the salt. (The greens are
warmed in a small, dry frying pan vibrant colors make for a stunning intentionally salty to balance against
2 ½ cups (1 lb / 450 g) Japanese Rice presentation. Substitute turnip the white rice, but you could cut
(page 291) greens if you cannot find the the salt to 3/• teaspoon if you prefer
2 tablespoons finely snipped daikonvariety. a slightly less salty palate.)
nori threads
Bring a large pot of water to a boil Fold the salted greens and warmed
over high heat. Lower the daikon sesame seeds into freshly cooked
stem ends into the water (do not rice. Mound into 6 small rice
let go) for a count of 20, then bowls and strew with nori threads.
submerge the greens in the boiling Serve hot.
water and cook for 90 seconds
more. (If using tender young
greens, blanch for I minute, until
soft.) Drain and refresh under cold
running water. Align the stem ends
COHAN - RICE
ROLLED SARDINE SUSHI
Preparation time: 20 minutes Traditionally, farm wives made sushi the vinegar. Dip your fingers in
Makes, 4 rolls rolls for special occasions, though the vinegar and spread a layer
fewer and fewer do today. Here a of sushi rice ½ inch (12 mm)
7 oz (200 g) fresh sardines simple filling of chopped fish with deep on the surface of the nori,
tablespoon grated fresh ginger
l grated ginger and scallions (spring starting ½ inch (12 mm) in from
4 tablespoons finely chopped fresh onions) makes for quickly executed the top edge of the nori. Spoon
scallions (spring onions) and well-balanced sushi rolls. Horse an even line of one-quarter of
I tablespoon brown rice miso mackerel fillets or anchovies can be the chopped fish across the rice
• 4 sheets nori used in place of sardines. about 3/+inch (2 cm) up from the
Rice vinegar, for shaping the sushi bottom of the nori. Moisten your
• Sushi Rice (page 291) Cut or pinch off the heads of the finger with rice vinegar and brush
· Soy sauce , for dipping fish (depending on size) and tear it across the exposed part of the
down toward the belly and pull out top of the nori. Roll the sushi one
the guts, vertebrae , and tail. Rinse rotation , keeping it tight and even
the fillets under cold running water and square off the first rotation
and pat dry on a tea towel. Pull with the bamboo rolling mat.
off the skins and discard. Cut the Continue rolling and secure with
fillets into thin vertical strips and the moistened end of nori. Press
crosswise into a fine dice. Chop again with the mat to secure . Repeat
in the grated ginger, scallions with the remaining nori, rice, and
(spring onions) , and misountil well chopped fish to make 4 rolls .
incorporated.
Rub rice vinegar on the blade of a
Lay a sheet of nori shiny side down razor-sharp knife and slice the roll
with the striations horizontally in half, then each half into thirds.
oriented on a makisu [bamboo Serve as is or with soy sauce for
rolling mat]. Set up a bowl with dipping.
1Jv-51.7. CURRY RICE
Preparation time: 15 minutes In Japan , the cut of meat used in Add the broth and deglaze the pan .
Cooking time, 30 minutes curry rice is komagiri-thinly cut pork Bring to a boil over high heat,
Serves, 6 from the shoulder area with some add the carrots and potatoes, and
fat on the edges. Ask the butcher cook until just cooked through,
% lb (300 g) pork shoulder, thinly to machine-slice pork shoulder or 5-7 minutes. In a small bowl ,
sliced butt meat that has some fat on it. blend the curry powder with a small
l tablespoon canola (rapeseed) oil amount of broth from the pot to
½ tablespoon gold sesame oil Cut the pork slices crosswise into make a slurry. Add that to the pot.
· l large onion, diced 1½-inch (4 cm) strips. Add the potato starch mixture,
2 tablespoons finely chopped mirin, and soy sauce and simmer
fresh ginger In a medium heavy pot, heat the until thickened, 7-10 minutes
l quart (32 fl oz/r liter) Japanese oils over medium heat until hot longer. If the bottom of the pan
Chicken Broth (page 160) but not smoking. Slide in the pork is browning or sticking, adjust the
2 large carrots, scrubbed and diced and stir - fry for I-2 minutes, then heat to low.
l lb 2 oz (525 g) potatoes, peeled add the onion and cook, stirring,
and diced until the pork has browned and the Serve hot on top of a bed of
3 tablespoons curry powder onions are deeply golden, about Japanese rice. The curry rice heats
l tablespoon potato starch dissolved in 5 minutes. Stir in the ginger in the up well for leftovers over the course
2 tablespoons water last minute or two before the pork of several days.
• 2 teaspoons mirin and onions are done.
2 tablespoons soy sauce
• Japanese Rice (page 291) , for serving
GOHAN - RICE
SEKI HAN
Preparation time: IO minutes , plus Sekihan [sticky rice with red beans) is Set up the steamer over a large pot
overnight soaking a celebratory dish made for special of water and bring the water to a
Cooking time: 55 minutes holidays, though sadly it is prepared boil. Add the steamer basket, cover ,
Serves, 6 less and less in modern Japan. Most and steam for 15 minutes. Uncover
people buy it ready made, and the and sprinkle a little cold water on
½ cup (3¾ oz/no g) dried azuki beans rice has been colored pink with the surface of the rice. Rewrap,
• 3¾ cups (2 lb/900 g) mochi gome artificial dye . While it is possible to leaving a center steam gap, cover,
[glutinous/sweet rice] come up with some sort of serving and cook for 15 minutes more.
• I tablespoon flaky sea salt substitute for the traditional Repeat the water sprinkle step and
4 tablespoons black sesame seeds lacquer boxes, it would not seem cook IO more minutes .
quite right.
Once cooked , dump the rice into
Start the day before serving. Soak a handai[wide wooden tub) or large
the beans in a medium saucepan wooden board, scraping off any
with plenty of cold water for I hour. lingering grains of rice from the
Drain , return to the saucepan, and cheesecloth. Spread the rice out
add cold water to cover the beans to cool.
by 2 inches (5 cm). Bring to a boil
over medium-high heat, adjust to In a small, dry frying pan, toast
a gentle simmer, and cook for 15 the salt and sesame seeds over low
minutes, until half cooked. Reserve heat until the sesame is fragrant.
the simmering liquid, drain the Immediately slide into a small bowl
beans. Store the half - cooked to stop the cooking process.
beans in the refrigerator. Set the
simmering liquid aside to cool. Pack the cooled rice into a stacking
lacquer boxes, if you have them.
Scrub the rice to dislodge bran Serve sprinkled with the sesame
and wash in several changes of cold salt. Lasts for I or 2 days at room
water until the water runs clear. temperature. Do not refrigerate .
Drain. Place the rice in a bowl and
add the cooled bean simmering
liquid. Leave overnight to allow
the rice to become infused with the
pink bean liquid.
The following day, drain the rice

and mix in the half-cooked beans.
Line a steamer basket with a large
piece of muslin cloth. Scrape the
rice and beans onto the cloth,
spreading them out evenly. The
rice will be at least 2 inches (5 cm)
deep. Fold the ends of the cloth
into the center, but leave a small
bit of the center of the rice peeking
out. Poke your finger into the
center about I-inch (2.5 cm) down
to make a guide to check how much
the rice has inflated as it cooks.
GO HAN - RICE
BAMBOO RICE
Preparation time: IO minutes If fresh bamboo shoots are water over it for IO seconds. Shake
Cooking time: 15 minutes available, by all means use them. off excess water and cut crosswise
Serves: 6 Otherwise, vacuum-packed bamboo into strips¼ inch (6 mm) wide.
shoots are a handy substitute. Keeps
2¼ cups (r lb/450 g) uncooked for a day or so at room temperature In a heavy medium pot, combine
Japanese rice and leftovers make tasty rice balls the washed rice , bamboo shoot,
7 oz (200 g) boiled bamboo shoot, for a quick meal on the go. and usuage, if using. Stir in the
peeled dashi, usukuchish'?)'u,and mirin. Cook,
½ usuage [deep-fried tofu pouch], Wash the rice according to the rest, and fluff , according to the
optional directions in Japanese Rice (page directions for Japanese rice .
Boiling water (optional) 291) . Drain. Quarter the bamboo
Scant 2 cups (15 fl oz/ 450 mi) shoot lengthwise and slice crosswise To serve , mo,und into rice bowls ,
Katsuobushi Dashi (page 156) into 1/+-inch (6 mm) quarter- tear the sansholeaves, dropping on
3 tablespoons usuku chi shoyu moons (itchogiri;see page 446). If top of the rice as you go, and serve.
• r½ tablespoon mirin using the usuage,halve it lengthwise
• 6 sprigs sansho leaves and place in a wire-mesh sieve. @ p .3 01
Pour a steady stream of boiling
GREEN PEA RICE
Preparation time: 5 minutes Vibrant green peas against snowy until cooked through but not
Cooking time: 5 minutes white rice make for a striking dish . mushy. Drain and refresh under
Serves: 6 cold running water. Blot dry in a
Fill a heavy medium pot three- clean tea towel. Fluff the rice and
• I tablespoon fine sea salt quarters of the way with cold water . add the cooked peas. Mix with
Generous¾ cup (3 1/2 oz /roo g) Add the salt, bring to a boil, and chopsticks to distribute evenly and
fresh green peas blanch the peas for 2-3 minutes , serve in small rice bowls .
• Japanese Rice (page 291) (depending on size and freshness)
GARLIC RICE
Preparation time: IO minutes If possible , use small red-skinned Wash and soak the rice according
Cooking time: 15 minutes garlic, since the cloves are mild and to the directions for Japanese Rice
Serves: 6 not acrid. This dish is best from (page 291). Stir in the garlic cloves.
June to December when the garlic Cook the rice and garlic, rest, and
2 '/• cups (r lb/ 450 g) uncooked is still pretty fresh . After New Year, fluff following the directions for
Japanese rice garlic-a June crop-steadily starts Japanese Rice (page 291) . Fold in
8 small garlic cloves to deteriorate . Take the time to the salted red or fresh green shiso.
2 tablespoons chopped salted red shiso find good-quality salted red shiso
or fresh green shiso or I tablespoon red leaves that are MSG-free and don't Serve mounded in small rice bowls.
shiso powder have artificial additives. This can
accompany any Japanese meal.
300 GOHAN - RICE

SANSHO LEAF RICE
Preparation time, IO minutes, plus Tiny young sansholeaves appear on Fluff the rice with a rice paddle or
20 minutes soaking time the tips of sanshotrees and sansho a wooden spoon. Fold in the sansho
Serves, 6 bushes in the spring and have a leaves, wood ear mushrooms (along
hauntingly indescribable flavor. with any lingering soy sauce and
2 heaping tablespoons wood ear They are starting to become mirin), and the myoga.Serve hot in
mushrooms, (5 g) soaked in cold available inJapanese and upscale individual rice bowls.
water for 20 minutes grocery stores outside of Japan, and
• I tablespoon soy sauce are an important addition to many
• ½ tablespoon mirin Japanese dishes. You can also grow
• Japanese Rice (page 2 91) them in your garden or at home.
Leaves from 6 sprigs sansho,
finely chopped Drain the wood ears , blot them dry,
2 myoga, halved lengthwise and thinly then cut into thin strips . Place in a
sliced crosswise small bowl and season with the soy
sauce and mirin.
SHISO-PERFUMED RICE
Preparation time: 20 minutes Shiso leaves and buds pair well with In a small bowl , stir together the
Cooking time, IO minutes cucumbers and salmon, and make umesu and I tablespoon water.
Serves, 6 this a lovely rice dish to serve on a Sprinkle the diluted umesu over
warm summer evening. the cooked rice and fluff the rice
2 salmon fillets (3 oz/85 g each) with a rice paddle or a wooden
• ¼ teaspoon flaky sea salt Position a rack 4 inches (ro cm) spoon. Fold in the torn salmon,
3 ½ oz (100 g) Japanese cucumber, from the heat source and preheat squeezed cucumbers, shisobuds, shiso
sliced into thin rounds the broiler (grill) . chiffonade, and sesame seeds to
2 tablespoons hojiso [shiso buds] distribute evenly.
• Boiling water Place the salmon fillets on a rack set
l tablespoon umesu [sour plum on a rimmed baking sheet and broil Serve in a large pottery bowl with
"vinegar", page 442] (grill) for 4 minutes on each side, individual bowls on the side .
• Japanese Rice (page 291) until fully cooked and the oils have
• 4 green shiso leaves, rolled and cut into come out. Cool and shred by hand.
chiffonade
• 2 tablespoons white sesame seeds, Massage the salt lightly into the
warmed slightly in a small, dry frying pan cucumbers, squeeze gently after
IO minutes. Drop the shisobuds
into a wire-mesh sieve and pour a
steady stream of boiling water over
them for IO seconds . Pat dry on
a clean tea towel.
GO HAN - RICE
RED SHISO RICE
Preparation time: 15 minutes The fried daikon cubes add juicy When the rice has cooked and
Cooking time, IO minutes little bites to thi s brightly fragrant rested, fold in the red shisoand the
Serves , 6 rice and make a good light supper . fried daikon. Serve hot in individual
If using salt-pickled red shiso, seek rice bowls that complement the
· Neutral oil , such as canola (rapeseed) , one without MSG or artificial vibrant red shiso.
peanut , or safflower, for deep-frying additives.
1
/ 6 small daikon, 5 1/, oz (150 g),
scrubbed and cut into Pour 2 inches (5 cm) oil into
1
/3 - inch (r cm) cubes a heavy medium pot and heat
• Japanese Rice (page 291) over high heat until hot but not
2 tablespoons red shiso powder or smoking . Dry the daikonpieces
finely chopped salt-pickled red thoroughly with a tea towel.
shiso leaves Working in batches, fry the daikon
pieces until golden brown , about
2 minutes. Drain on absorbent
paper towels.
RICE BOWL WITH GROUND MEAT
Preparation time: 30 minutes This homespun one-dish meal over medium-low heat. Cook over
Cooking time, 15 minutes is simple and comes together low heat for 4 minutes, then stir
Serves, 4 quickly-and it's a good way to use in the remaining I tablespoon each
leftover rice. After you've made this soy sauce and mirin, and simmer
I tablespoon canola (rapeseed) oil once , you probably won ' t need to until the liquid has completely
½ lb (225 g) ground (minced) use a recipe . evaporated , about 4 minutes more.
pork or chicken
4 tablespoons mirin In a medium frying pan, heat the In a small pot of boiling salted
4 tablespoons soy sauce oil over medium heat. Add the water , blanch the green beans
4 dried shiitake , soaked in I cup meat and stir-fry until starting to r-3 minutes, depending on their
(8 fl oz/ 250 ml) boiling water for sizzle and turn from pink to gray thickness. Refresh under cold ,
30 minutes in places , about 2 minutes. Stir in running water. Pat dry in a clean
• 12 green beans , topped 3 tablespoons each soy sauce and tea towel. Slice at a diagonal into
2 ½ cups (r lb / 450 g) cooked Japanese mirin. Continue stir-frying over 2-inch (5 cm) lengths (if the beans
Rice (page 291) medium-low heat using a wooden are thick, halve lengthwise before
Egg Threads (page 2 2 2) spatula to break up the lumps , cutting).
I tablespoon finely slivered benishoga until the liquid has reduced and
[pickled red ginger] the meat resembles tiny pebbles, Divide the cooked rice among
8-ro minutes total. 4 large donburi [deep soup bowls]
and spoon the toppings over the
Reserving the soaking liquid , lift rice, each in its own section: egg
out the shiitake,discard the stems , threads, followed by shiitake, green
and cut the caps into slices 1/+ inch beans, then meat (ending up next
(6 mm) thick. Carefully pour to the egg). Add I pinch of benishoga
½ cup (125 ml) of the soaking into the middle of each bowl.
liquid into a small saucepan, taking
care not to add the gritty bits at the
bottom of the bowl. Drop in the
shiitakeand bring to a gentle simmer
GORAN - RICE
YUZU RICE WITH MITSUBA
Preparation time: 15 minutes Yuzu and mitsuba(a bright herb , Pare the zest off the yuzu with a
Cooking time, 15 minutes ubiquitous to many Japanese dishes razor-sharp knife and cut into thin
Serves, 6 such as chawanmushiand soups) are strips. Then cut crosswise into
both stars on the Japanese flavor fine dice.
2 1/+ cups (1 lb/ 450 g) uncooked palette. They should be available at
Japanese rice Japanese or upscale grocery stores When the rice has finished cooking,
6-inch (15 cm) piece konbu now that chefs are using them let rest for 5 minutes before
• 2 yuzu or I Meyer lemon regularly in Western-as well as fluffing with a rice paddle or a
I small handful mitsuba, cut crosswise Japanese-cooking. wooden spoon. Fold in theyuzu
into %-inch (1 cm) lengths zest, mitsuba,and salt. Serve hot in
• I teaspoon flaky sea salt Wash, drain, and soak the rice individual rice bowls.
according to directions for
Japanese Rice (page 291). Add the
konbu and cook as directed.
YUZU RICE WITH NANOHANA
Preparation time, 25 minutes This seemingly modern dish Drain and refresh under cold
Cooking time, 20 minutes dates back to the Edo period running water. Align the stem ends
Serves, 6 (1603-1868). In early spring, and squeeze down the length of the
as the winter greens go to seed, greens, from the ends to the tips to
2 1/+ cups (1 lb/ 450 g) uncooked flowering nanohana (brassicas similar remove excess water. Blot off excess
Japanese rice to broccoli rabe/rapini) dot the moisture by rolling in a clean tea
2 tablespoons soy sauce fields in our area. At this time the towel. Chop finely and transfer to
• 2 tablespoons sake yuz:ustarts to lose its juiciness, but a bowl.
n½ oz (325 g) nanohana or broccoli its zest still remains flavorful. The
rabe (rapini) black sesame seeds add contrasting Pare off the zest from theyuzu with
2 large yuzu or 2 very small color, so be sure not to skip. Serve a razor sharp knife and slice the zest
Meyer lemons with a simple supper of grilled into fine slivers. Juice theyuzu and
2 tablespoons black sesame seeds, fish or meat and a salad or pickle strain the juice. Mix theyuzu zest
warmed in a small, dry frying pan side dish. and juice, and sesame seeds into
the chopped nanohana until all of the
Wash and soak the rice according ingredients are well incorporated.
to the directions for Japanese
Rice (page 291), but remove Once the rice has cooked and
4 tablespoons of the soaking water rested for 5 minutes, fold in the
and replace with the soy sauce and nanohanamixture. Serve hot.
sake. Cook per the directions.
Bring a large pot of water to a boil

over high heat. Lower the nanohana
stem ends into the water (do not
let go) for a count of 30, then
submerge the greens in the boiling
water and cook until softened, but
not mushy , another 2-3 minutes.
306 GO HAN - RICE

TARO RICE
Preparation time : 25 minutes, plus In Gifu, located in the middle Halve the chicken lengthwise, then
IOminutes for soaking of Japan , rice harvested after the cut crosswise into strips ¾.-inch
Cooking time, 20 minutes first frost is called hatsushimomai (2 cm) wide.
Serves: 6 [first frost rice] or shimomai[frost
rice]. Naturally extra gummy With the knife held at a 45-degree
2¼ cups (I lb /45 0 g) uncooked when cooked, it is prized as sushi angle to the cutting board, slice the
"first frost" or regular Japanese rice rice . Taro root, with similar sticky strips into %-inch (I cm) pieces.
· 5¼ oz (150 g) taro roots, peeled and qualities , pairs well with this type Toss into the bowl of taro and add
cut into ¾-inch (2 cm) bite-size pieces of rice. As it can be tricky to find, the sake.
• Iteaspoon flaky sea salt substitute regular Japanese rice
• 2 tablespoons dried wood ear if you cannot lay your hand s on Put the snow peas in a wire-mesh
mushrooms hatsushimomai. sieve and pour a steady stream
2 sasami [chicken tenders] or 2 oz of boiling water over them for
(65 g) chicken breast Wash and soak the rice according IO seconds. Refresh under cold
• I tablespoon sake to the directions for Japanese Rice running water , pat dry in a tea
12 snow peas (mangetout) (page 291). towel , and cut into julienne.
• Boiling water
Place the taro pieces in a medium Bring the rice to a boil, covered,
bowl and massage in the salt. In over high heat. Reduce the heat to
a medium bowl, soak the wood the lowest setting and cook for
ear mushrooms in cold water to 5 minutes. Uncover the rice and
fill for IO minutes. Scoop out the stir in the wood ear mushroom ,
mushrooms, drop into a wir e - mesh taro , and chicken, scraping in
sieve , and rinse under cold water . any salt or juices from the bowls.
Pat dry , then cut crosswise into Cover, and cook for IO minutes
¼-inch (5 mm) pieces . Place in more over low heat. Let rest for
small bowl. 5 minutes , scoop into individual
rice bowl s, and strew with the
julienned snow peas before serving.
GINGER RICE
Preparation time: 15 minutes Ginger has a long history inJapan Squeeze the grated ginger to express
Cooking time: 15 minutes as an important ingredient. Here , 2 tablespoons of juice into a small
Serves : 6 rice cooked with a gentle hit of bowl. Remove the konbu from the
soy sauce is juxtaposed by hot top of the rice and sprinkle the
21/, cups (1 lb / 450 g) uncooked ginger juice, for a brightly delicious ginger jui ce over the rice . Fluff with
Japanese rice rice side dish. a rice paddle or a wooden spoon to
2 tablespoons soy sauce distribute the ginger juice and serve
6-inch (15 cm) piece konbu Wash and soak the rice according hot in individual rice bowls .
6 tablespoon s grated fresh ginger to the directions in Japanese Rice
(page 291). Remove I tablespoon
of the water and replace with the
soy sauce. Slip the konbu onto the
surface of the rice. Cook and rest
according to the directions.
308 GOHAN - RICE

KOY ADON
Preparation time: 45 minutes While fr esh tofu originated in Scoop the rice into 6 large donburi
C ooking time: 15 minutes China , k'!)'adofu[freeze - dried [deep so up bowls] and spoon
Serves : 6 tofu] is an original Japanese way the k'!)'adofaand egg mixture over
of preserv ing tofu . The spongy the rice in each bowl to serve as a
6 piec es ko yadofu [freeze - dri ed tofu] texture of re constituted k'!)'adofa hearty lunch.
• 2 usuage [deep-fried tofu pouches] might seem a little unusual to the
• Boiling water uninitiated , but its ability to ab sorb N o te , To r econstitut e the k'!Jadofa,
2 ½ cups (20 fl oz/ 600 ml) Konbu liquid make s it a natural addition place it in a single layer in a square
Dashi (page 156) to brothy dishe s. cake pan or small hotel pan. Pour
4 tablespoons soy sauc e hot , but not boiling, water int o the
· 4 tablespoons mirin Reconstitute the k'!Yadoji,(see Note) . pan to cover the k'!Yadofa(taking
I medium onion , halved lengthwise and Slice the k'!Yadofainto % -inch (r cm) care to not pour the hot water
thinly sliced crosswise batonnets. Place the usuagein a directly onto the k'!Yadofa). Onc e the
• 4 shiitake, stems pared off and wire-mesh sieve and pour a steady k'!)'adofahas cooled and re-inflated,
discarded , caps finely sliced stream of boiling water over it for about IO minutes, lift it out with
• I medium carrot, scrubbed and IO seconds to remove oil. Slice int o a spatula and discard the water in
finely julienned % x by '/•-inch (r x 2 cm) strips. the pan . Put the k'!Yadofaback into
2 handfuls seri Uapanese wild parsley]. the pan, fill with cold water to
cut crosswi se into 2 cm / 3/+-inch length s In a large frying pan , combine purge any lingering baking soda
3 eggs , at room temperature , beaten the dashi, soy sauce , and mirin and (bicarbonate of soda) used in the
• Japanese Rice (page 291) bring to a lively simmer. Slide in freeze - drying process , and let sit
the k'!Yadofu.Scatter in th e usuage, 5 minutes. Discard the water and
onion , shiitake,and carrot and fill with fresh cold water. Repeat
simmer gently until the vegetables twice . Drain and prepare according
have softened and the simmering to the recipe.
liquid has reduced by abolrthlilf ,
7-IO minute s.
In a bowl , stir the seriinto the

beaten egg. Swirl the mixture
over the surface of the simmering
k'!Yadofa and vegetables. Cook until
half set, but still somewhat runny ,
about I minute longer .
GOHAN - RICE
CHICKEN AND VEGETABLE
MIXED RICE
Preparation time: 30 minutes, plus A one-pot meal packed with plenty In a large frying pan, heat the oil
20 minutes for soaking of vegetables, protein, and fiber- over medium heat. Toss in the
Cooking time, 30 minutes tasty and healthy . Serve this as a onion , burdock, and chicken and
Serves, 6 family supper with salad or pickled stir-fry for 2-3 minutes to soften
vegetables on the side. the onion and whiten the meat.
r% cups (12 ½ oz/360 g) uncooked T hrow in the carrot, shiitake, and
Japanese rice Wash the rice according to the usuage.Continue stir-fry ing until
6-inch (15 cm) piece konbu, brushed directions for Japane se Rice the vegetables have softened, 3-5
with water to soften , snipped into (page 291) , drain , and combine minutes. Add the green beans, soy
thin strips with 1% cups (13 fl oz/ 400 ml) cold sauce, an d mirin and simmer over
6½ tablespoons hikiwari mugi or water along with the konbu strips and medium-high heat, stirring, until
oshimugi [flattened barley] barley and let soak for 20 minutes. the liquids have evaporated,
• l small carrot, scrubbed Cook per the directions . 2-3 minutes.
• ½ tablespoon rice vinegar
2% oz (75 g) burdock root, scr ubbed Cut the carrot crosswise into Once the rice has cooked and
8 medium green beans , topped and cut 1¼-inch (3 cm) lengths and then rested for 5 minutes , fluff with a
into r ¾-inch (2 cm) lengths into fine julienne. Fill a small bowl rice paddle or a wooden spoon.
2 tablespoons cano la (rapeseed) oil halfway with cold water and add the Fold in the simmered vegetables
• I small onion , diced vinegar . With your nondominant and chicken and serve hot.
5¼ oz (150 g) ground (minced) hand, hold the burdock above
chicken the bowl and use a sharp knife to [variation] Stir the sauteed vegeta-
3 medium shiitake, stems discarded and shave thin slices off the end as you ble mixture into the uncooked rice
caps thinly sliced rotate it (sasagaki;see page 446), like and cook everything together. In
l usuage [deep-fried tofu pouches], sharpening the end of a stick. this case, only use 2 tablespoons
halved lengthwise and cut crosswise soy sauce and l tablespoon mirin. If
into thin strips In a small pot of boiling salted more salt flavor is desired, sprinkle
• 2 tablespoons soy sauce water, cook the green beans for with flaky sea salt at serving .
• I½ tablespoons mirin 3 minutes . Drain.
[Qj p.311
SUSHI POUCHES
Preparation time: 20 minutes These slightly juicy rice-filled separating the sides from each other
Cooking time: IO minutes pillows are the ultimate comfort to form pouches .
Makes, 18 pouches food.
In a small, dry frying pan, toast
9 usuage [deep-fried tofu pouches] Halve the usuagecrosswise and roll a the sesame seeds over medium heat
• Boiling water dowel or rolling pin over the usuage until fragrant , shaking the pan
Noodle Dipping Broth (Mori Tsuyu, to facilitate opening them later. and lifting off the heat if needed
page 157) Lay in a large wire-mesh sieve and to avoid scorc hing. Mix the sesame
I tablespoon black sesa me seeds pour a steady stream of boiling seeds into the sus hi rice with a pair
Sushi Rice (page 291) water over them for IO seconds to of chopsticks that have been dipped
· Rice vinegar remove oil. in rice vinegar.
In a small saucepan, bring the Divide the rice into 18 portions

noodle dipping broth over medium and stuff the half pouches with
heat almost to a simmer. Slip in the the rice , folding one edge inside
usuage. Place a piece of parchment to make a neat packet . Serve
paper on the surface of the liquid immediately or cover and store at
and simmer for 5 minutes. Let cool room temperature for severa l hour s
in the simmering liquid before before serving.
GO HAN - RICE
DRIED DAIKON LEAF
FRIED RICE
Preparation time, 25 minutes Fried rice is how most Asian In a large wok or heavy pot , heat
Cooking time: 15 minutes countries use day-old rice , and the oil over medium - high he at
Serves, 6 Japan is no exception. The dried until hot but not smoking. Add the
fish and vegetables in this version negiand stir-fry for a few minutes
• Japanese Rice (page 291) give it a healthy profile . This is until slightly caramelized . Dump
5¼ oz (150 g) sayori or aji no himono good with green salad on the side. in the cooked rice and continue
[air-dried half -beak or horse mackerel] stir-frying over medium heat,
or other similar air-dried fish In a large bowl , break the rice up breaking up the lump s until the
4 tablespoons canola (rapeseed) oil by cutting with a rice paddle or a rice is heated through , another few
2 thin negi , or 3 fat scallions (spring wooden spoon . minutes . Fold in the torn air-dried
onions) , cut c rosswise into ¾,-inch fish, daikonleaves, sesame seeds ,
(2 cm) lengths Heat the broiler (grill) and set katsuobushi,and soy sauce. Serve on
I handful dried daikon leaves , torn into the fish, skin-side up , on a foil- plates an d eat with a spoon.
bite -s ize pieces lined rimmed baking sheet. Grill
2 tablespoons white sesame seeds, the fish 4 inches (ro cm) from
lightly toasted in a small, dry frying pan the top of the broiler on each side
2 handfuls freshly shaved katsuobushi until lightly browned and glossy ,
or hanakatsuo 3-4 minutes. Once cooked , tear the
I tablespoon soy sauce fish into bite -s ize pieces and discard
the bones, head (if attached) , and
tail , but leave the skin intact.
MOCHI PORRIDGE
Preparation time , 15 minutes Oven-broiled or pan -g rilled mochi Meanwhile , bring the rice to a
Cooking time , 45 minutes [pounded glutinous rice cakes] simmer over high heat , stirring
Serves: 6 cloaked in this salty , creamy ok'!Yu constantly. Adjust the h ea t to
[rice porridge] , brings out the best a gentle simmer and continue
I cup (7 oz/ 200 g) uncooked in the dried mochi. You will not miss stirring until the rice is tender
Japane se rice the seri if you do no t have it. This through to the core , 30-35
2 teaspoons flaky sea salt deceptively simple dish is nuanced minutes.
• I sheet tororo konbu with its different textures an d
6 small pieces dried brown rice mochi astonishingly tasty. Place a piece of broiled mochi into
· I large handful seri Uapanese wild each of 6 large donburi [deep soup
parsley]. cut crosswise into I-inch Preheat the broiler (grill). bowl s]. Portion out half of the ok'!)'u
(2.5 cm) lengths , optional evenly into each bowl. Stew the seri,
• 2 tablespoons white sesame seeds , Wash th e rice according to if using, over the ok'!)'u.Ladle out
lightly toasted in a small, dry skillet the directions in Japanese Rice the second half of the ok'!Yuevenly
(page 291), drain, add to a into each bowl. Sprinkle each bowl
heavy medium pot , and stir in of ok'!Yu with I teaspoon sesame
6 cups (48 fl oz / I. 5 liter s) co ld seeds an d one-quarter of the torn
water with the salt. tororo konbupieces. Serve piping hot.
Crisp the tororokonbuon a dry frying

pan over low heat and shred into
bite-size pieces .
Place the mochidirectly on a rack set

over a rimmed backing sheet and
grill 6 inches (15 cm) from the top
of the broiler 7 minutes on each
side until puffy and speckled .
312 GO HAN - RICE

DRIED DAIKON LEAF PORRIDGE
Preparation time: 15 minutes , plus Ojjyais a risotto-like porridge Stir the konbu strips back into the
30 minutes soaking time made from cooked rice (as in this soaking water with the usukuchish'!)lu
Cooking time, 20 minutes recipe) , whereas ok'!Jluis made from and sake. Rinse the chilled cooked
Serves, 6 uncooked (see Machi Porridge , rice with cold water, shake off,
page 312). You will need to think and dump into a medium heavy
6-inch (15 cm) piece konbu ahead and dry daikonleaves in the pot. Stir the seasoned konbuwater
• 2 tablespoons usukuchi shoyu sun until completely desiccated- slowly into the pot, while breaking
· 4 tablespoons sake they are also used in Dried Daikon up the lumps and stir in the dried
· Japanese Rice (page 291) , chilled Leaf Fried Rice (page 312), so good daikonleaves . Bring to a simmer
I large handful hoshiba [dried daikon to have in the pantry. over medium - low heat and cook ,
leaves], roughly crumbled stirring, until creamy and risotto-
I large pinch of flaky salt (optional) Measure 2 cups (16 fl oz/500 ml) like, about 20 minutes . Serve
water into a heavy medium pot and immediately in individual rice
drop in the konbu. Soak for bowls and sprinkle with salt , if you
30 minutes until softened, then feel it needs it.
snip or slice into thin strips.
GINGER-SOY CHICKEN
RICE BOWL
Preparation time: 15 minutes, plus Ju st about any leftovers can be put adjust the heat to low if the chicken
15 minutes for marinating on top of rice and called donburi, is blackening or browning too
Cooking time, 20 minutes but the best candidates are grilled quickly. Transfer to a cutting board
Serves, 6 dishes such as Yakitori (page 266) to rest for 5 minutes before halving
or simmered egg dishes such as lengthwise and cutting crosswise
4 tablespoons soy sau ce Dashi - Flavored Eggwith Garlic into slices 1/3 inch (1 cm) wide.
• 4 tablespoons mirin Chives (page 42).
½ tablespoon grated fresh ginger Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan,
• ½ tablespoon freshly mashed In a medium bowl , whisk together heat the dashiover medium - high
garlic paste the soy sauce , mirin, ginger, and heat. Add the peas and cook
I lb 2 oz (500 g) boneless chicken garlic. Slip in the chicken, making for 1-3 minutes , depending on
thighs (skin on) sure all sides are submerged. freshness. Scoop out with a wire-
3 tablespoons canola (rapeseed) oil Let marinate for 15 minutes . mesh sieve and slide into a small
tablespoon gold sesame oil
• I Reserving the marinade, remove bowl. Add the reserved marinade
• 2 ½ cups (20 fl oz/ 600 ml) the chicken and pat dry with to the dashiand bring to a lively
Katsuobushi Dashi (page 156) absorbent paper towels . simmer , about 2 minutes, until the
I cup (4 1/2 oz/r25 g) fresh green peas liquid is reduced by half .
• Japanese Rice (page 291) In a large frying pan , heat both oils
I small handful roughly torn mitsuba over medium heat until shimmering To serve , mound the rice into
leaves (optional) but not smoking. Carefully place 6 large donburi [deep soup bowls].
the thighs in the pan , skin side Arrange the chicken pieces in two
down, taking care to avoid any small rows on top of the rice , strew
sputters or jumping droplets. in some peas, and ladle over the
Reduce the heat to medium-low, seasoned dashi. Scatter with torn
and cook for 5 minutes., Flip the mitsubaleaves, if desired, and serve .
thighs , and cook 7 minutes more
on the other side. Immediately
314 GO HAN - RICE

KATSUDON
Preparation t ime: 20 minutes Though it is easy injapan to buy In a large clean frying pan, bring
Cooking time: 15 minutes katsu [fried pork cutlets]-which the dashi, soy sauce, mirin, onions,
Serves: 6 makes this dish a snap-the quality and ginger to a lively simmer over
of katsuvaries greatly, so homemade medium-high heat. Cook until the
I lb 2 oz (550 g) pork cutlets, 3/• inch is really best. liquid has reduced by half, about
(1 cm) thick 7 minutes. Slide a wide kitchen
3 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose Lay out two pieces of parchment knife under the sliced cutlets and
(plain) flour paper across your work surface place side by side into the frying
6 eggs, at room temperature and sprinkle with a small amount pan. The liquid should only come
• I cup panko (2 ½ oz/75 g) of water. Arrange the pork cutlets one-quarter of the way up to the
4 tablespoons canola (rapeseed) oil on one of the pieces of paper and top of the cutlets.
• 2 ½ cups (20 fl oz/600 ml) top with the other, water-side
Katsuobushi Dashi (page 156) down. Lightly whack with a meat Whisk the remaining 4 eggs until
• 4 tablespoons soy sauce tenderizer to soften , but not partially emulsified , swir l across
• 2 tablespoons mirin flatten. Sift the flour on top of the the surface of the cut let s, cover ,
2 medium onions , halved lengthwise pork. Flop the cutlets around a and cook over medium-high heat
and sliced into ¼-inch (6 mm) little to make sure that both sides until the eggs have set , but remain
half-rounds are floured and shake off. runny in spots, about 45 seconds to
I tablespoon finely slivered fresh ginger I minute.
· Japanese Rice (page 291) , for serving Whisk 2 of the eggs in a shallow
bowl and set it next to the pork . Scoop rice into 6 large donburi [de ep
Pour some of the panko o nto a soup bowls] and spoon the katsu,
medium dinner plate and place that egg , and simmering liquids on top
next to the eggs. Coat each cutlet of the rice.
with panko by using one hand for
dipping in the egg and the other
for dredging in the panko. Line up
the cutlets on a clean baking sheet
as yo u go.
In a heavy frying pan, heat the oil

over medium heat. Once hot, fry
the cutlets until golden brown
on the outside but still not quite
cooked through in the middle,
about 2 minutes per side . Drain on
severa l thickness of absorbent paper
towels. Cut each cutlet crosswise ,
at a slight diagonal, into 2~inch
(5 cm) slices.
GO HAN - RICE
SHRIMP AND PEA RICE
Preparation time: IO minutes A vehicle to use up leftovers , h<!Jashi flat wooden spatulas , for 2 minutes.
Cooking time, IO minutes rice is said to have developed in Scrape into a small bowl, making
Serves, 6 the southern island of Japan in sure to get all of the onion and
the port city of Kita Kyushu . The ginger pieces out or they will
2 tablespoons canola (rapeseed) oil owner of a casual eatery needed to burn. Stir the shrimp (prawns)
• I medium onion, diced feed his customers quickly before into the peas and onion.
Itablespoon finely chopped they boarded the ship , so he put
fresh ginger together this flavorful ketchup- Add the remaining r½ tablespoons
I cup (4½ oz/r25 g) fresh green peas based rice dish. While chicken is oil to the wok and heat over
• 5'/• oz (150 g) cooked small commonly used in this dish, here medium heat. Dump in the rice
bay shrimp (prawns) the shrimp reflects the seaside and stir-fry until heated through ,
• Japanese Rice (page 291) roots. Feel free to swap out diced about 5 minutes. Sprinkle in the
• I large pinch flaky sea salt leftover chicken or pork . In the salt and drizzle the usukuchish'!Yu
• I tablespoon usukuchi shoyu same vein , any chopped vegetables over the rice , toss once or twice,
• 4 tablespoons tomato ketchup such as carrot, green beans, or and spoon in the ketchup. Stir-
turnips can be substituted for the fry over low heat to distribute the
green peas. ketchup until the rice is evenly
colored pink. Toss the shrimp
In a large wok, heat ½ tablespoon and pea mixture into the rice and
of the oil over medium heat. Add serve hot.
the onion and ginger and stir-fry
until starting to soften. Add the
peas and cook , tossing with two
OYAKODON
Preparation time: IO minutes OyakodoninJapanese means Whisk the eggs, but leave some of
Cooking time, IO minutes "parent - child rice bowl, " a word the whites visible. Swirl the whisked
Serves, 6 play on a recipe where both the eggs over the surface of the chicken
chicken and the egg are the stars. and negi,cover, and cook over low
'I• teaspoon flaky sea salt This dish-a favorite with Japanese heat until the egg has partially set,
½ lb (225 g) boneless, skinless chicken children-comes together quickly . but still has runny portions,
thigh, cut into ½-inch (12 mm) cubes 1-2 minutes.
• 2 tablespoons sake Massage the salt into the chicken
• I tablespoon finely slivered fresh ginger and toss with the sakeand ginger . Mound the cooked rice into
· 2 ½ cups (20 fl oz/600 ml) 6 large donburi[deep soup bowls]
Katsuobushi Dashi (page 156) In a large frying pan , bring the and ladle the cooked chicken and
• 4 tablespoons soy sauce dashi, soy sauce , and mirin to a egg over the rice . Sprinkle with
• 2 tablespoons mirin simmer. Cook for about 3 minutes ichimitogarashi,if desired, and serve
4 3/• oz (135 g) negi or fat scallions to concentrate the seasonings and immediately.
(spring onions) , cut crosswise into reduce the liquids by half. Add
¾-inch (2 cm) lengths the negiand chicken ginger mixture Note, This makes great leftovers,
• 4 eggs, at room temperature and simmer, swirling the pan , but the dish tastes best if the egg
· Japanese Rice (page 291), for serving until the chicken and negiare is freshly cooked. So if you think
lchimi togarashi [powderedjapanese cooked through to their centers, you won't eat this in one sitting, set
red chile] , optional 3-5 minutes. aside some of the seasoned chicken
and negi,as well as the number of
eggs you'll need, then complete the
dish when you ' re ready to enjoy the
leftovers .
GOHAN - RICE
tsukemono
PICKLES
TSUKEMONO - PICKLES
Tsukemonois more correctly translated as "put on things ,"

rather than "pickled things," and encompasses a broad
range, from quick pickles to longer fermentations. For the
sake of clarity, however , tsukemonois translated as "pickles."
Tsukemonoare eaten at any meal or served any time, such as tea
breaks in the morning and afternoon.
While there are some slower pickling or fermenting
processes that are common in rural Japan, for the most
part, quick pickling is a daily affair. And that style of
pickling is accomplished through the use of sea salt, soy
sauce , miso, or fish sauce, though it also can utilize sake lees
or rice koji as well. These ancient fermented foods (such as
miso or soy sauce) and artisanal materials (such as salt) can
quickly transform a vegetable into a tasty palate cleanser or
accompaniment to a bowl of rice.
Tsukemonois one of the treasures of Japan, but beware,
commercial pickles almost all contain MSG and preservatives
and are most likely made from vegetables imported from
China, adding to the compelling reasons to make your own.
320 ;Jf !lo/) TSU KEM O NO - PI C KL ES

MUSTARD AND VINEGAR-
PICKLED EGGPLANT
Preparation time: 20 minutes The addition of vinegar gives Lift the eggplant out of the bowl ,
Pickling time: 8 hours this version of mustard - pickl ed leaving any salt crystals behind
Makes: r lb (450 g) eggplant (aubergine) a gentle and blot the rounds dry in a clean
acidity. Serve as part of a mix ed tea towel. Wipe out the bowl and
17½ oz (500 g) mediumJapanese pickle plate that includ es pickles return the eggplant pieces to the
eggplants (aubergines) , stem ends made from several different bowl or a small ceramic pot. Toss
trimmed pickling methods to create balance with the mustard mixture and set
• I teaspoon flaky sea salt on the plate. Pickles go well with an otoshibuta [drop lid] or plate on
I tablespoon mustard powder any Japanese meal or drinks before top. Place a I-lb (500 g) weight
3 tablespoons rice vinegar dinner. on top and leave in a cool place
· 3 tabl espoons mirin for 8 hours. (Alternatively, use
3 tablespoons soy sauc e Slice the eggplants (aubergine s) a tsukemonoyoki U apanes e pickling
crosswise into ¾ - inch (2 cm) pres s].) Use within I-2 days , but
rounds. Dr op the eggplant into a keep refrigerated.
medium bowl and sprinkle with the
salt. Stir gently and leave for
IO minutes.
In a small bowl, whisk I teaspoon

water into the mustard , then whisk
in the vinegar , mirin, and soy sauce.
MUSTARD-PICKLED
JAPANESE PARSLEY
Preparation time: IO minutes The heat of the mustard matches In a small bowl, blend together the
Cooking time: 30 seconds the brightness of the seri U apanese mustard powder, vinegar , mirin, and
Pickling time: 2 hours wild parsley] and these spicy pi ckled usukuchish'!Yuand scrape the mixture
Serves : 4 greens go well with grilled food. into the bag with the seri. Tip ba ck
and forth to distribute the pickling
2 large handfuls seri Uapanese wild Hold the seriby the tops with a pair solution around the seri. Roll up
parsley] or mitsuba of tongs and dip the roots into the bag , gently squeezing out the
I teaspoon mustard powder a pot of boiling salted water for air without squishing the seri itself ,
• 2 tablespoons rice vinegar 20 seconds. Plunge the seri in and and store in the refrigerator for
• I tablespoon mirin out of the boiling water and refresh a couple of hours to absorb flavor.
• I tablespoon usukuchi shoyu in a large bowl of cold water. Scoop Use within 1-2 days as the pickling
out with a wire-mesh sieve and mixture will eventually overwhelm
shake off excess water. Blot dry in the seri.
a clean tea towel, cut crosswise into
1½ -inch (4 cm) pieces, and drop
into a quart - size resealable food
storage bag.
321 TSUKEMONO - PICKLES

MISO-PICKLED EGG YOLK
Preparation time: 15 minutes Pickling in miso "cooks" raw egg spoon into the miso at even
Pickling time, 3 days yolks and transforms them into intervals. Slide a raw egg yolk into
Makes, 12 egg yolks creamy, salty , earthy bites. Serve each divot. Drape another double
as an accompanime nt to a cold layer of cheesecloth across a cutting
• 4 tablespoons mirin or sake beer or a glass of sake. board and smooth the remaining
Generous I cup (ro½ oz/300 g) miso on top of the cloth,
barley miso In a sma ll bowl, stir the mirin into approximating the same surface
• I2 egg yolks the miso to loosen the paste. If the area of t he first layer . Dislodge the
miso is particularly dense, add more miso-smeared cheesecloth from the
liquid , using half mirin and half sake. board by sliding a fine metal spatu la
between the cloth and the board .
Spread a little over half of the miso Set the cloth on top of the egg yolks
into the bottom of a rectangular and cover.
refrigerator container just large
enough to hold the yo lk s. Lay a Store in the refrigerator for 3 days.
double layer of cheesecloth on top Recycle the miso mixtur e to make
of the miso. Make I2 divots in the more pickled egg yolks, or misoso up.
miso the size of the egg yolks by
pushing and rocking a wooden
AC HARA-STYLE
CARROT PICKLES
Preparation time: ~O minutes Achara-style pickles are said to (2 cm) thick. Stack the slabs and cut
Pickling time, IO minutes have developed from trade with into thin flat pieces (tanzaku-giri; see
Serves, 6 India. A little of these delicious, page 446). Massage lightly with the
spicy carrot pickles goes a long way. salt and let sit for IO minutes. Blot
14 oz (400 g) carrots , scrubbed Intensel y flavored, they ' re best in dry in a clean tea towel, and toss
· ½ teaspoon flaky sea salt small amounts as a condime nt or with the vinegar, mirin, usukuchish'!)lu,
6 tablespoons brown rice vinegar a savory bite before dinner or with and chile. Let macerate for
· 6 tablespoons mirin carbonated beverages as a snack. IO minutes b efo re serving. Keeps
I½ tablespoons usukuchi shoyu for severa l weeks in the refrigerator.
I small dried red chile, seeded cut into Cut the carrots crosswise into
fine rings r½-inch (4 cm) lengths. Slice those [Qj p.323
pieces lengthwise into slabs ¾ inc h
SOY-PICKLED WASABI TOPS
Preparation time: 15 minutes Wasabistems and leaves have water to cool. Drain, squeeze , and
Cooking time, IO seconds a pleasant amount of heat and drop into a he atproof refrigerator
Pickling time, I day crunch , making them eminently container.
Serves, 6 suitable for quick pickling.
In a small saucepan, bring the soy
3 ½ oz (roo g) wasabi stems and leav es, Set up a bowl of ice water, Chop sauce and saketo a simmer, then
cleaned the wasabistems and le aves finely immediately remove from the heat
Boiling water and place in a wire-mesh sieve. and pour over the wasabitops. Toss
2 tablespoons soy sauce Pour boiling water over them in to distribute evenly, cover, and
• 2 tablespoons sake a circular stream for a count of 10, refrigerate for I day before using.
Immediately plunge into the ice Keeps well for severa l days.

QUICK MUSTARD-PICKLED
EGGPLANT
Preparation time: 20 minutes Mustard brings out eggplant's Pat the eggplant pieces dry on
Pickling time, I hour (aubergine) earthy flavor and the a clean tea towel. Toss with the
Makes, r lb (500 g) generous amount used here makes mustard mixture and scrape into
this a potent pickle. a medium bowl. Place an otoshibuta
I lb (500 g) Japanese eggplants [drop lid] or plate on top and
(aubergines), stem ends trimmed Cut the eggplants (aubergines) allow to absorb flavor for I hour.
• I teaspoon flaky sea salt crosswise into ¼-inch (6 mm) Eggplant tends to darken quickly ,
I tablespoon mustard powder rounds . Massage gently with the salt so eat these fairly soon after they
• 3 tablespoons soy sauce and let sit for IO minutes . are ready . Store in the refrigerator
• I½ tablespoons mirin for I - 2 days.
In a small bowl , mash together the
mustard powder, soy sauce, and
mirin to form a loose paste.
SOY SAUCE-PICKLED
CUCUMBERS
Preparation time: 20 minutes Matsumae is an area of Hokkaido Squeeze the cucumbers gently and
Pickling time, I day where this pickling style originated. place in a large bowl, ceramic pot ,
Makes , 2 lb (900 g) Western or Persian cucumbers or tsukemonoyoki[plastic pickle press,
may be substituted; best to peel page 445] and add the soy sauce
2 1/+ lb (1 kg) unpeeled Japanese at intervals , halve lengthwise , and and chiles. Place an otoshibuta[drop
cucumbers , ends trimmed scoop out the seeds before using . lid] over the cucumbers and set a
• ½ teaspoon flaky sea salt 2 lb (1 kg) weight on top of the
6-inch (15 cm) piece konbu Cut the cucumbers crosswise into drop lid, or screw down the plate of
tablespoon sake
• I r¼-inch (3 cm) lengths. Massage the pickle press. Leave for
2 small dried Japanese red chiles with salt the and leave for IO 24 hours in a cool spot before
• ½ cup (4 fl oz/ r25 mi) soy sauce minutes . Brush the konbuwith the eating. These pickles keep for
sake and let soften . Once softened several days , refrigerated in their
enough to cut , snip into thin strips pickling liquid , but will lose crunch
I 'I• inches (3 cm) long. over time .
@ p.325
THREE-WAY VINEGAR-
PICKLED MYOGA
Preparation time: IO minutes Available only in the summer, mirin, and soy sauce. Place an
Pickling time, I day myogais a pleasantly bitter rhizome otoshibuta[drop lid] on top and set
Makes, I cup (7 oz/200 g) bud in the ginger family bearing a IO oz (300 g) weight on top of
no resemblance to ginger in the drop lid. (Alternatively use
12 medium myoga, bottoms trimmed, appearance or flavor . Serve a tsukemonoyoki Uapanese pickling
halved lengthwise alongside grilled fish . press].) Leave for 24 hours at room
3 tablespoons rice vinegar temperature before using. Keeps
· 3 tablespoons mirin Drop the "!JIOgainto a small ceramic for 2-3 weeks, if refrigerated in the
3 tablespoons soy sauce pickling crock with the vinegar, pickling liquid.

QUICK SHIBAZUKE
Preparation time: 15 minutes Shibazuke, a well-known salty-sour and cucumber . Add the red shiso
Pickling time, 1-2 hours Kyoto pickle , uses red shiso and and umesuand toss. Set a small
Makes, 1 lb (450 g) umesu [sour plum "vinegar"] to plate on top of the vegetables and
pickle weighted vegetables. Here, weight with a measuring cup filled
6 oz (175 g) Japanese eggplants slicing the vegetables thinly, rather with water or something similar.
(aubergines) , cut crosswise into %-inch than leaving them in chunks, speeds (Alternatively, use a tsukemonoyoki
(1 cm) rounds up the process. [Japanese pickle press] and screw
• 7 oz (200 g) Japanese cucumbers, cut down just enough to create pressure
crosswise into %-inch (1 cm) rounds Massage the eggplants (aubergines) but not crush the vegetables.) The
• I teaspoon flaky sea salt and cucumber slices lightly with pickles will be ready to eat in
· 3 myoga , halved lengthwise ¾ teaspoon of the salt . Massage the 1-2 hours, but these pickles will
12 red shiso leaves, rolled and sliced myogawith the remaining hold up admirably over the course
into fine tendrils ¼ teaspoon salt. After IO minutes , of I week.
4 tablespoons umesu squeeze the eggplant and cucumber
[sour plum "vinegar"] gently, blot off the excess salt and [Qj p .327
liquid with an absorbent paper
towel, and place in a medium bowl
or ceramic pot. Squeeze the n,yoga
and drop in with the eggplant
FISH SAUCE-PICKLED
EGGPLANT
Preparation time: IO minutes Squid fish sauce, dark and pungent Place the eggplants in a gallon-size
Pickling time, 3 hours with squid ink , can be a challenge (4 liter) resealable food storage
Makes, 20 pickled eggplants to use in a dish . However, the sauce bag. Add the fish sauce and let
is the perfect medium for pickling marinate at room temperature for
2 lb 3 oz (1 kg) whole baby Japanese small eggplants (aubergines) , as it 3 hours. Taste. If you feel the flesh
eggplants (aubergines), 2-3 inches tempers the bitter skin and seeps needs a tad more salt , soak for
(5-7½ cm) long , with stems intact into the eggplant flesh. Getting the I more hour. Drain and serve .
• Generous 2 cups (17 fl oz / 500 ml) timing right is essentiaC so taste
squid fish sauce , preferably Japanese periodically to determine the right
marinating time before serving.
This is great served with a cold beer
on a hot day.
Leaving ½ inch (12 mm) for

aesthetic purposes , snip the stems
off the eggplants (aubergines) .

SALT-FERMENTED
SUMMER VEGETABLES
Preparation time: 15 minute s Because of the warm weather , salt - Note, In the winter, substitute
Fermenting time, 3 days pickling progresses quickly in the cabbage , carrots , and turnips
Makes, 3 lb 5 oz (1.5 kg) summer, so keep your eye on these . for these summer vegetables .
Winter vegetables need less salt
2 lb (900 g) mediumjapanese Slice the cu cumbers and eggplants (4 tablespoons) and should b e left
cucumbers , unpeeled (aubergines) crosswise into %-inch for at least 5-7 days.
r 3/+ lb (800 g) mediumjap anese (2 cm) rounds . Put each of the
eggplants (aubergines), unpeeled types of vegetable in its own bowl [Q] p.329
IO½ oz (300 g) green beans , topped and massage in proportional
• IO½ oz (300 g) small carrots, cut to amounts of the salt. Pack in a large
the size of the green beans pickling crock or small pickling
3 tablespoons plus I teaspoon flaky barrel in layers , starting with the
sea salt green beans and carrots, followed
by the cucumbers and eggplants,
patting down each layer firmly
before introducing the next one .
Cover with an otoshibuta[drop lid)
and set a 6% lb (3 kg) weight on
top of the drop lid. Leave in a
cool, shady spot for 3 days until
fe r mentation takes hold. Once
soured to your personal taste , store
in the refrigerator.
MISO-PICKLED GINGER
Preparation time, 15 minutes, plus Finely sliced , this ginger makes for Pack in a ceramic pot or plastic
2 days for air-drying a tasty bite with beer or a spicy foil container and stor e in a cool dark
Pickling time, I week to Curry Rice (page 297). place for I week before using . Keeps
Makes, ½ lb (225 g) for 3 months, if refrigerated.
Air-dry the ginger in a shady
½ lb (225 g) young ginger, scrubbed spot for I-2 days. Cut the ginger
well with a stiff brush crosswise into ¼-inch (6 mm)
· 2 tablespoons mirin slices . Mash the mirin into the miso
½ cup (4 3/+ oz/ 135 g) barley miso and smooth over the ginger pieces.
TSUKEMONO - PICKLES
PICKLED RED GINGER
Preparation time: 20 minutes Organic umesu[sour plum piclcling, an otoshibuta [drop lid].
Piclcling time : 3 months "vinegar" ] is available online. As a and a 2 1/+ lb (1 kg) weight. Cover
Makes, 2 1/+ lb (1 kg) caveat: umesu is not actually vinegar: and set in a cool place for 3 months
It is the naturally occurring brine to mellow . Store in jars at room
2 1/+ lb (1 kg) fresh ginger, peeled that is part of the production of temperature. It keeps for up to
Generous 2 cups (17 fl oz/500 mi) umeboshi[salted sour plum] , and that I year.
umesu [sour plum "vinegar"] makes good-quality umesuexpensive.
There are o nly two farmers in Jap an @ p.331
who make organic ume products for
the commercial market, so these
products are precious.
Cut the ginger crosswise into

1
/a-inch (3 mm) slices. Place in a
small piclcling crock with the umesu,
cover the surface with a piece of
heavy-duty food grade plastic for
SOY SAUCE-PICKLED
SHISO BUDS
Preparation time: 15 minutes When shisoflower buds emerge in the buds in the soy sauce, until
Cooking time: 5 minutes the spri ng and seeding bud s in slightly reduced and you can smell
Makes: 1/2 cup (r¾ oz/50 g) the autumn, they are plentiful , so the soy sauce caramelizing, about
piclcling them makes sense. Often 2 minutes. Pack in a small jar with
I cup (1½ oz/45 g) hojiso[shiso buds] packed in salt, here the soy sauce the soy sauce and refrigerate. It
· Boiling water gives a more intense result. Use as keeps well for several months.
½ teaspoon flaky sea salt a condiment for white rice. They 're
% cup (5 fl oz/r50 mi) soy sauce also excellent with egg dishes,
especially fried eggs or raw egg on
hot rice.
Place the shiso buds in a wire - mesh

sieve and pour a steady stream
of boiling water over them for
IO seconds. Cool. Massage in the
salt. In a small saucepan, simmer

MISO-PICKLED SHISO BUDS
AND MYOGA
Preparation time: 30 minutes Hojiso(literally "stem shiso") refers Stir the sakeinto the miso and
Pickling time, 5-6 days to the flowering and seeding buds pack into a small ceramic pot or
Makes, 1% cup (6½ oz/r85 g) that appear on the stems in spring cylindrical covered container. Poke
(flowers) and autumn (seeds). Both the cheesecloth bundle down into
10½ oz (300 g) myoga, quartered are used for culinary purposes in the miso, cover, and store in a cool ,
lengthwise Japan. Serve this tasty pickle as a dark place for 5-6 days before
½ teaspoon flaky sea salt condiment to Japanese rice or on pulling out and using. Good for 2-3
2½ cups (3½ oz/loo g) hojiso[shiso a zensaiplate. The shisobuds provide months , if stored in a cool place.
buds] an earthy, slightly salty foil to the
Boiling water crunchy lll)IOga
.
2 tablespoons sake
I cup (9¾ oz/275 g) brown rice miso Massage the myogawith the salt .
Leave for 20 minutes to soften . Put
the shisobuds in a wire-mesh sieve
and pour boiling water over them
for IO seconds. Refresh under cold
running water and pat dry in a tea
towel. Tie the myogaand shisobuds
together in a piece of cheesecloth .
SOY SAUCE-PICKLED GARLIC
Preparation time, 20 minutes Pickling the garlic in soy sauce sampling. The pickles can be left
Cooking time, 30 seconds softens its heat and renders it for several months , and as time
Pickling time, I week almost creamy. Make these when goes by, the garlic will become
Makes, I cup (5½ oz/r6o g) garlic is in season in the beginning milder and milder. Once you
of summer. You will not regret the have eaten all of the garlic , use the
8 smallish heads garlic , separated into time it takes to peel the cloves. If pickling solution as a savory soy
cloves and peeled possible , try to source rose garlic sauce for stir-frying.
• Boiling water (pink-purple skinned garlic)
I cup (8 fl oz/ 250 mi) soy sauce because it is mild.
Drop the garli c cloves into a

wire-mesh sieve and pour a steady
stream of boiling water over them
for IO seconds. Pat dry and pack
into a small jar with the soy sauce
(the soy sauce should cover the
garlic). Leave in a cool , dark
place to pickle for I week before

SALT-FERMENTED
MUSTARD GREENS
Preparation time: 15 minutes , plus I day Takanais a type of Japanese mustard over a pickling crock, massage
air - drying plant prized for pickling . It grows the salt into the leaves and stems
Fermenting time: 2-3 weeks up to 2 feet (60 cm) high and and pack tightly in the crock,
Makes, 3 lb (r.4 kg) appears only for a short time alternating stem ends in each layer.
in early autumn . Komatsuna,bok (You want to use IO percent of the
· 9 lb (4 kg) takana choy, or mustard greens can be greens' weight for salt.) Press an
14 oz (400 g) flaky sea salt substituted. It can be eaten as is otoshibuta[drop lid] directly on top
(in moderation), with ri ce, sauteed of!eaves and set a 13 lb
with root vegetables and tofu, or (6 kg) weight on top of the drop
dropped into misosoup. lid. Leave for 2-3 weeks in a cool
place to ferment.
Lay the takanaout , so the strands
are not touching, on a flat basket Once fermented , remove from the
elevated off the ground for good air crock and store , tightly wrapped,
circulation . (Alternatively, use a wire in the refrigerator for a few weeks
rack lined with cheesecloth.) Air-dry as you use it up. If the pickle is too
for a full day in a shady spot. salty, soak in cold water for 20 - 30
minutes before squeezing and
Pound the stems gently with a cutting. Cut crosswise into 1 1/.+-
surikogiUapanese grinding pestle] inch (3 cm) pieces before using.
or wooden rolling pin to break
down the fibers a little. Working
GREEN CHILE RELISH
Preparation time: 25 minutes , This pickle is made in Iwate until just barely warm, and stir in
Cooking time: 5 minutes prefecture in northeastjapan . The the rice koji, and katsuobushi.Cover
Pickling time: 8 -12 hours chopping takes a little while, but with a clean tea towel and leave
Makes: I quart (1 liter) is worth the time , since this spicy overnight before using . Pack into
condiment keeps for an extended a jar and store in the refrigerator.
• 3 ½ oz (roo g) konbu time , if refrigerated. This relish keeps for a few weeks.
2 ½ cups (20 fl oz/ 600 ml) sake
· 2½ cups (20 fl oz/ 600 ml) mirin Soak the konbu in the sake until soft,
2 ½ cups (20 fl oz/ 600 ml) soy sauce about 15 minutes . Pluck out , and
¾ oz (25 g) fresh green japones chiles, snip into fine threads. In a medium
finely diced saucepan, combine the sake, konbu
15 oz (425 g) piman or small green threads , mirin, soy sauce , chiles ,
peppers. finely diced and piman. Bring to a simmer, cool
I lb 5 oz (600 g) rice koji
3 ½ oz (roo g) freshly shaved
katsuobushi or hanakatsuo

GREEN PEPPER RELISH
Preparation time: 15 minutes No matter whether fried, raw , or heat , stirring occasionally, until
Cooking time, 2-3 hours pickled, there is no better match the liquid has evaporated and the
Makes, Generous 2 cups for pimanUapanese green pepper], mixture is jam-like, 2-3 hours.
(17 fl oz/500 ml) than miso. The natural bitterness of Scrape into a jar and store in the
the piman somehow softens from the refrigerator for 2 to 3 months.
I lb 5 oz (600 g) pimans Qapanese green earthy salty miso. Here, the koji acts
peppers] , diced as a fermenting agent and also gives
r'/2 cups (ro'/2 oz/300 g) chuzarato texture to this condiment.
[c oa rs e brown sugar crystals ]
· 1¾ lb (800 g) rice koji In a large heavy pot, combine the
7 1/2 cups (60 fl oz/r.8 liters) soy sauce piman, chu:,;a
rato, koji, soy sauce , and
· 8 sma ll whole dried red japones chiles chiles. Simmer over medium-low
MISO-PICKLED TURNIPS
Preparation time: 20 minutes Turnips benefit from all kinds of Transfer the 2 sets of 3 turnips to
Pickling time, 4-5 days pickling , and theyu,u- and sesame- separate resealable food storage
Makes, 6 pickled turnips miso treatments make for a versatile bags and refrigerate for 4-5 days
pickle that can be served as a side before using. Once fully cured ,
• 6 small turnips with tops dish or appetizer. These turnips scrape off and discard the miso. Blot
(r lb I 450 g), scrubbed pair particularly well with Achara- the turnips dry and cut into wedges
I tablespoon gold sesame seeds Style Carrot Pickles (page 322). for serving. The pickled turnips
J½ tablespoons finely slivered yuzu or will keep well for I week or two , if
Meyer lemon zest Leaving% inch (r cm) of the stems, stored without the miso.
6 tablespoons white miso lop off the turnip tops. (Save the
• I teaspoon gold sesame oil leaves for another dish.) [variation]
For a quick version: Saute bite-
In a small, dry frying pan , toast size triangular chunks (rangiri; Page
the sesame seeds over medium heat 446) of turnip in a small amount
until fragrant , shaking the pan of sesame oil and fold in either the
and lifting off the heat if needed yuzu-miso or the sesame-miso before
to avoid scorching. Slide the seeds serving.
into a suribachi [grinding bowl]
or spice grinder and grind to a [Qj p.335
coarse powder.
In a small bowl, mash together

theyuzu zest and 3 tablespoons
of the miso. In a second bowl ,
mash together the ground sesame
seeds, sesame oil, and remaining
3 tablespoons miso. Smooth the
yu~u-m iso over all surfaces of 3 of the
turnips and the sesame-miso over
the other 3.

OVERNIGHT PICKLED
NAPA CABBAGE
Preparation time: 30 minutes Overnight salting is probably the Transfer to a tsukemonoyoki

Pickling time, 2 hours salting , plus most ingenious of preparations in Uapanese pickle press] and screw
overnight macerating ruraljapan, since the philosophy is down to press until the liquid is
Makes, 14 oz (400 g) based on the lives of busy farmers expressed from the vegetables .
and fishermen, Salting is done at (Alternatively, pack in a resealable
7 oz (200 g) napa cabbage the end of the day when work slows food storage bag, squeeze out all
( Chinese leaf) down, and eaten the following day of the air , and place in a large
7 oz (200 g) green cabbage when a surfeit of work means few bowl. Fill another bag with water
8 oz (225 g) daikon, scrubbed idle hands . and place on top to weight the
I medium carrot, scrubbed vegetables until their natural
· Flaky sea salt Cut the napa cabbage (Chinese liquids are released.) Drain after
6 tablespoons rice vinegar leaf) and green cabbage crosswise 2 hours and discard the brine.
• 3 tablespoons soy sauce into 1 1/2-inch (4 cm) pieces.
· 6 tablespoons mirin Quarter the daikon and carrot In a small bowl, whisk together the
• I teaspoon fine sea salt lengthwise and slice crosswise into vinegar, soy sauce, mirin, and fine
I (6-inch/r5 cm) piece konbu, brushed '/•-inch (6 mm) quarter-rounds. salt. Snip the softened konbu into
with water to soften Halve all of the half rounds thin threads . Layer the vegetables
Slivered zest of I yuzu or crosswise to make quarters . Toss in a refrigerator container with the
½ Meyer lemon the vegetables with the flaky salt. JUsU zest and konbu threads. Pour the
You want to use enough salt to add vinegar mixture over the vegetables
up to 2 percent of the vegetables' and refrigerate overnight to pickle.
combined weight; in this case it These are not long-term pickles,
1
should be about /2 oz (15 g). but nonetheless will hold up for
I week or so.
SPICY NAPA CABBAGE PICKLES
Preparation time: IO minutes Quick pickles are part of daily life In a small saucepan , whisk together
Pickling time, I hour in Japan with many methods used the vinegar , soy sauce, mirin, sesame
Serves, 6 to prepare them. Adding a bit of oil, and chile. Bring to a simmer
sesame oil to the brine gives this over medium heat, then remove
II oz (325 g) large napa cabbage pickle some body. Use the best mirin from the heat and pour over the
(Chinese leaf) leaves, center stems and soy sauce you can find as their vegetables , toss, and place a weight
separated from the leaves complex flavors are key. Serve as a over the surface . Let macerate for
• Ismall carrot, scrubbed pickle with rice and soup, or a bite I hour before eating .
1
• /2 teaspoon flaky sea salt before dinner .
• I tablespoon rice vinegar [Q] p .337
• I tablespoon soy sauce Cut the napa cabbage ( Chinese
• I tablespoon mirin leaf) stems and carrot into % x
Itablespoon gold sesame oil 2-inch (r x 5 cm) thin sticks. Slice
I small dried japones red chile, the leaves crosswise into I½-inch
cut into fine rings (4 cm) pieces. Gently massage the
salt into the cabbage and carrot
until ever so slightly fatigued. Put
the vegetables in a large bowl.
TSUKEMONO - PICKLES
QUICK SALT-PICKLED
CABBAGE
Preparation time: 20 minutes Western cabbage can be substituted the konbu and chiles and more salt.
Pickling time, 2- 3 days for the napa cabbage ( Chinese leaf). If making more than one layer, salt
Makes: 1½ lb (650 g) This is a Plain-Jane version of Salt- each layer before adding the next
Fermented Napa Cabbage (opposite layer until all of the ingredients
2 ¼ lb (1 kg) napa cabbage page) , but good for beginners to have been used up . Once all of
( Chinese leaf) have in their repertoire. Aromatics the cabbage has been placed in
2 oz (60 g) flaky sea salt such as garlic, ginger ,yu.tu, or dried the crock , press down hard on the
I (4-inch/10 cm) piece konbu , brushed red chiles can be added to the surface with the palm of your hand
with water to soften, and snipped into cabbage as it is salted and pa cked in to eliminate air pockets. Add water
fine threads the crock. to come about one - quarter of the
2 small dried red japones chiles , sliced way up the cabbage (poke your
into fi.ne rounds Quarter the cabbage by slicing fingers down the side to check). Lay
through the core about 4-inches an otoshibuta[drop lid] on top and
(10 cm) up into the leaf area . set a 2 lb (1 kg) weight on top of the
Pull the quarters apart. Rinse off drop lid. Leave for 2-3 days in a
any dirt or dust particles from warm room before using. Once the
the cabbage and shake dry. Strew souring has began (as opposed to
some of the salt in the bottom of a merely being salty), refrigerate and
pickling crock and pack the cabbage eat within 4 days.
quarters in, cut side down, wedging
them closely together. Strew with
RICE BRAN-PICKLED CABBAGE
Preparation time: 20 minutes Rice bran pickles have a funky , sour Repeat the same order to make 8
Pickling time: 3-4 days profile that cannot be duplicated layers ending with rice bran , chile,
Makes: 14 oz (400 g) by other pickling methods . This and ginger. Place an otoshibuta[drop
quick version allows you to achieve lid] on top and set a 4 1/2 lb (2 kg)
8 tablespoons flaky sea salt excellent results without the time- weight on top of the drop lid.
I lb 5 oz (600 g) head green cabbage, consuming process of creating a
cored with whole leaves intact rice bran pickling bed. The cabbage pickles will be ready to
2 cups (4 1/2 oz/130 g) rice bran eat in 3-4 days, depending on the
8 small dried red chiles (preferably Sprinkle I tablespoon of salt evenly weather. Once pickled sufficiently ,
Japanese or Thai) across the bottom of a pickling transfer to a plastic container and
8 teaspoons slivered fresh ginger crock. Separate the cabbage leaves store in the refrigerator. To serve,
into 8 piles. Working with one pile, rinse a few leaves in cold water, pat
sandwich 2 whole leaves together dry, stack and cut into I½-inch
at a time and smooth them on top (2 cm) squares.
of the salt until all of the leaves in
the pile have been used . Mix the
remaining salt into the rice bran
and sprinkle in one - quarter of the
mixture in an even layer. Smooth
in another pile ofleaves , 2 leaves at
a time as described above , and strew
with I whole chile and I teaspoon of
the ginger.
TSUKEMONO - PICKLES
SALT-FERMENTED
NAPA CABBAGE
Preparation time, 15 minutes, plus The Japanese version of sauerkraut, Place a large plastic pickling bag
4-6 hours air-drying this cabbage pickle is an easy one in a pickling crock or small pickle
Fermenting time, 2 weeks for novices who want to try their barrel. (Alternatively , just rinse
Makes, 4 lb (2.5 kg) hand at fermentation. To use the the pot or barrel with hot water
cabbage , cut crosswise into 2-inch and use as is, but keep an eye on
6 lb IO oz (3 kg) whole napa cabbage (5 cm) lengths and serve with the pickles to make sure no mold
( Chinese leaf) a dribble of soy sauce if a little forms .) Massage the salt into the
6-inch (15 cm) piece konbu additional salt is desired. cabbage wedges and pack into the
• I tablespoon sake pickling container. cut side down,
3 oz (90 g) flaky sea salt (3% of the Quarter the cabbage ( Chinese leaf) sprinkling in the konbuand chile as
cabbage weight) by slicing through the core about you go. Flatten the bag across the
I small Japanese red chile , sliced into 4 inches (10 cm) up into the leaf surface of the cabbage, so the edges
fine rounds area. Pull the quarters apart from are flush to the side of the pot and
the core, so you do not cut the drape over the pot.
leaves. Cut each quarter in the same
manner. and pull apart to create Place another bag , filled with
8 pieces total. water and tightly secured , on top.
(If not using the plastic bag, just
Spread out a thick layer of press an otoshibuta[drop lid] firmly
newspaper and arrange the cabbage on the cabbage and set a 6 ½ lb
wedges on the newspaper. Dry [3 kg] weight on top of the drop
under indirect sunlight, cut side s lid .) Leave for 2 weeks in a cool
up, for half a day (4-6 hours , place to ferment. Remove from
depending on the weather). The the barrel as needed . This cabbage
cabbage should be slightly dried, keeps for about I month or so while
but not wilting. the weather holds, otherwise store
tightly wrapped in the refrigerator
Brush the konbuwith sakeand soft en for a few weeks.
until it can be snipped into thin
strips 1½ inches (4 cm) long.

DRIED DAIKON PICKLED IN
THREE-WAY VINEGAR
Preparation time: 5 minutes, plus Dried daikoncomes in two forms: drops . Pat dry in a clean tea towel
I hour soaking time kiriboshidaikon [fine threads] or and cut crosswise into 1½-inch
Pickling time : 2 days wariboshidaikon [fat strands] . Either (4 cm) lengths. Place in a
Makes: 6½ oz (185 g) can be used here, though kiriboshi refrigerator container that just
daikon seems to be easier to find. holds the reconstituted daikonand
13/+oz (50 g) kiriboshi daikon Kanl!Yo[gourd strands] could also be add the rice vinegar , mirin, soy
6 tablespoons rice vinegar substituted. Use this as a side pickle sauce , and chile . Refrigerate for
• 6 tablespoons mirin for any Japanese meal. 2 days before using and store for
6 tablespoons soy sauce up to 2 weeks .
I small driedJapanese red chile, Soak the kiriboshidaikonfor I hour
cut into fine rounds in a medium bowl of cold water to
generously cover. Lift out of the
water and drop into a wire-mesh
sieve. Rinse under cold , running
water, and shake off any excess
MISO-PICKLED DAIKON
Preparation time : 1½ hours These pickles involve a two-step Drape over the rope again to air-
Pickling time: 9-14 days initially, then process, so plan ahead , and be sure dry outside for I more day.
1½-2 months to start when there are still at least
Makes, 8 lb 13 oz (4 kg) two months of cold weather ahead. Stir the mirin into the misoand
spread enough misoonto the bottom
II lb (5 kg) daikon, with leaves Scrub the daikonwell and halve of a large pickling crock to make a
IO½ oz (300 g) plus 2 tablespoons fine lengthwise. If quite thick, quarter. 2-inch (5 cm) layer . Coil a layer of
sea salt Tie two daikon halves together at the daikoninto the pot as tightly as you
11/+ cups (IO fl oz/300 ml) mirin base of the leaves and hang over can . Top with a thin layer of miso.
6½ lb (3 kg) inaka , brown rice , or a rope outdoors in the winter air Keep adding layers of daikonwith
barley miso for 1- 3 days until soft and flexible, misountil all of the daikonhas been
but cover at night to ward off frost. wedged into the pot. Smooth the
Coil the semi-dried daikon tightly rest of the misoonto the daikonand
into the barrel or crock . Mix the press down to compress. Sprinkle
IO½ oz (300g) salt with I cup (8 fl with the remaining 2 tablespoons
oz/235 ml) water and pour over the salt, place an otoshibuta[drop lid)
daikon. Place an otoshibuta[drop lid] on top and set a 9 lb (4 kg) weight
on top and set an II lb (5 kg) weight on top of the drop lid. Cover with
on top of the drop lid . Leave for a large piece of muslin cloth and
7-IO days. tie twine around the circumference
of the pot to secure. Leave in a
Remove the salted daikonfrom the cool, shady spot outside for I ½-2
brine and soak in a bowl of cold months before using.
water for 6 hours, but dump the
soaking water each hour and add
fresh cold water.

QUICK RICE BRAN-PICKLED
DAI KON
Preparation time: 30 minutes Not a true nukazuke[rice bran Chop the leaves crosswise into
Pickling time: 6 hours pi ckle]-in the sense that it 4-inch (ro cm) pieces and pack
Make s : 14 oz (400 g) does not have nukazuke'slovely into the bottom of a small pickling
sourness-this pickling method crock . Strew one-third of the daikon
I½ lb (700 g) daikon , with leave s is nonetheless handy when time cubes on top of the leaves in an
• 3 tablespoons flaky sea salt is an issue and you don't have a even layer and sprinkle with
Generous 1h cup (r oz / 30 g) rice bran nukadoko[rice bran pickling bed] I tablespoon of salt and
• Shichimi togarashi at your disposal. Nukadoko is a bed 2 tablespoons of rice bran. Repeat
[seven - spice powder] of lactic - fermented rice bran that to make 2 more layers. Place an
takes about one week or more to otoshibuta[ drop lid] on top and set
create , and requires daily attention. a 2 .2 lb (r kg) weight on top of the
Turnip or whole radishes can be drop lid. Leave to macerate for
substituted for the daikon. 6 hours. Rinse before serving.
Serve sprinkled with shichimitogarashi.
Remove the daikonleaves and set (If the pickle is too salty for your
aside. Scrub the daikon and cut it taste , soak in plenty of cold water
into ¾-inch (2 cm) cubes. Massage for 30 minutes before using.)
I tablespoon of the salt into the
daikonand let sit for IO minutes .
Rinse off the salt under cold
running water and pat dry.
CURRY-PICKLED DAIKON
Preparation time: 20 minutes Japanese love their Curry Rice After 2 days, remove the daikonfrom
Pickling time: IO days (pag e 297) and curry powder makes the liquid and dry in direct sunlight
Makes, r¾ lb (800 g) a brilliant addition to pickles , for 4-6 hours , depending on the
especially turnips and daikon. weather. The daikonshould be dry
2 lb 3 oz (r kg) daikon , halved and taut- not withered .
lengthwise Cut the daikoncrosswise into
2 tablespoons (r oz/ 30 g) fine sea salt manageable pieces that will fit Sprinkle the partially dried daikon
Generous 2 cups (17 fl oz / 500 ml) sake in a pickling crock. Rub the daikon with curry powder , pack into a
• 4 tablespoons mirin pieces with the salt and wedge clean pot, weight, and leave in a
2 tablespoons hot curry powder tightly into a ceramic or food grade cool spot for I week before using.
plastic container . Pour the sake To serve, rinse the daikon, pat dry ,
and mirin over the daikon, place an and slice thinly .
otoshibuta[drop lid] or plate on top
and set a 3 ½ lb (r.6 kg) weight on
top of the drop lid . Cover loosely
with muslin cloth and tie twine
around the circumference of the
pot to secure . Leave for 2 days in
a cool spot.

QUICK PICKLED DAIKON
WITH DAIKON LEAVES
Preparation time, 20 minutes, plus Japan is the land of preserving, in a cool, shady spot with good air
6 hours air-drying time but these projects take place at the circulation. Drop the daikonleaves
Pickling time, 2 days times of the year when the fruit into a large wire- mesh sieve and
Makes, II oz (325 g) or vegetable (or fish) is ready to pour a steady stream of boiling
be harvested and put up . Quick water over them for IO seconds .
I lb (450 g) daikon, peeled pickling, on the other hand, is a Squeeze to remove water and slice
• 2 large handfuls daikon leaves daily treatment of fresh vegetables crosswise into fine chiffonade.
• Boiling water that goes well with rice. The
I tablespoon slivered fresh ginger vegetables are ready to eat within In a medium bowl, toss the semi-
Finely slivered zest of I small sudachi minutes or hours , and they often dried daikonpieces with the daikon
I small dried japones chile, cut hold up well for several days. leaves, ginger, sudachizest, and
crosswise into fine rings chile. Massage in the salt, place an
½ tablespoon flaky sea salt Halve the daikonlengthwise and slice otoshibuta[drop lid] on top of the
crosswise into I 1/+-inch daikon, and weight. Store in the
(3 cm) half-rounds. Cut those refrigerator for 2 days before using.
in half to make quarter-moons
(itchogiri;see page 446). Lay the [Qj p.342
daikonpieces out on a basket and dry
outdoors for half a day (6 hours)
MISO-PICKLED TAKUAN
Preparation time: IO minutes, plus Takuanis a rice bran pickle made Cut the takuan crosswise to fit a
I day soaking and 2 days drying from half-dried daikon, which is pickling crock. Smear a layer of
Pickling time, IO days prepared in early December and miso 'I+inch (5 cm) deep in the
Makes, 2% lb (1.2 kg) ready in early January. The pickles bottom of the pot. Line the takuan
are kept outside or in a pickle pieces up side by side , wedging
2% lb (1.2 kg) slightly shed and are eaten throughout the them in tightly. Pack another thin
over-the-hill takuan winter. As the weather begins to layer of misoon top of the takuan,
· Fine sea salt warm in March, the winter pickles more takuan followed by miso, until
I cup (9¾ oz/275 g) brown start to get slightly funky, and there all of the pieces have been packed
rice miso are several methods to repurpose in the crock. Spread the last of the
the pickles for a few last uses. misoacross the last layer of takuan,
Here, the takuan is soaked to remove then press down with the palm of
sourness, then pickled in miso your hand to eliminate air pockets .
to preserve. Cover and store in a cool place for
IO days before using.
Soak the takuan for I day in lightly
salted water.
Arrange the takuanon a basket or

spread out newspaper and dry
outside for 2 days .

PACIFIC SAURY SUSHI
Preparation time: IO minutes Before the edomaezushi [Tokyo- Wash, soak and cook the rice in
Pickling time, I month style sushi] that is still popularly a large heavy pot, according to
Makes, n lb (5 kg) eaten today , sushi was a type of the directions for Japanese Rice
fermented rice and vegetable (page 291), but use 4 1/+ cups
8¾ lb (4 kg) mackerel pike or herring preparation called narezushi. The (1 liter) of water. Dump out onto
• ½ lb (250 g) fine sea salt initial preparation steps are a handai[large wooden tub] or at
Scant 1¼ cups (IO fl oz/270 ml) not time-consuming, but the lea st two large cutting boards and
rice vinegar fermenting process does require sprinkle some of vinegar mixture
6 tablespoons (90 ml) mirin a leap of faith. The deliciously over the rice . Cut the vinegar into
6 tablespoons (90 ml) soy sauce salty, sour fish that results after the rice with a rice paddle or a
4 1/+ cups (1 lb 14 oz/ 850 g) I or more months makes it worth wooden spoon , while fanning the
uncooked rice venturing into unknown territory. rice with your other hand. Keep
TO½ oz (300 g) rice koji This is one of those large-scale sprinkling over and cutting in the
I medium carrot , scrubbed and fermenting or pickling operations vinegar while fanning, until all of
julienned performed when there is a lot of the vinegar has been incorporated
½ lb (225g) daikon, scrubbed and one kind vegetable or fish. Feel and the rice has cooled until just
julienned free to make less. barely warm. If not using a handai,
transfer the sushi rice you have
Remove the head and guts from the just made to a large bowl. Fold in
fish (leave the scales on). Slice it the rice koji before the rice cools to
down the back to separate into barely warm . Once incorporated,
2 fillets and peel out the vertebrae. add the carrots and daikon, and mix
Rinse well. Sprinkle a layer of the until evenly distributed.
salt in the bottom of a pickling
container that will hold the fish Pack a 3/+-inch (2 cm) layer of
flat, and line some fillets side by rice in the bottom of the pickling
side across the salt , skin side up . container used to salt the fish and
Sprinkle more salt (eyeballing the arrange a layer of fillets , side by
amount of salt and the amount side and skin side up . Spread a
of fish to keep the salting process layer of the rice across the layer of
fairly even), and layer in more fish . fish and continue alternating layers
Add the last layer of fish with the of fish and rice until the last layer
last of the salt. is rice .
Set an otoshibuta[drop lid) on top Place an otoshibuta[drop lid) on top

of the fish and place a 9 lb (4 kg) of the rice and replace the 9 lb
weight on top of the drop lid . Leave (4 kg) weight. Cover with muslin
in a cool, dark place for 2-3 days cloth and tie twine around the
until the water and blood rises circumference of the container to
above the drop lid. Remove the fish secure. Leave to ferment in a cool ,
from the salt, rinse quickly , but do dark place for 3-4 weeks before
not soak in water . Discard the salt eating. If there is too much liquid
and wash the container . pooling up, tip a little out from
time to time. Lasts for about
In a medium bowl, combine the 2 months following the initial
vinegar, mirin, and soy sauce. month of fermentation , if stored
in a cold place .

SOY SAUCE-PICKLED DAIKON
Preparation time, 30 minute s Make this big batch of crunchy, a pickling crock at least twice as
Pickling time, 2 weeks delicious daikon pickles in the big as the amount of daikon. Cut
Makes , I2 pound s (5.5 kg) height of winter when daikon is sweet cross -wise if need be to fit in
and abundant. Freshly picked daikon the pot. Strew with the chiles and
17 1/2 lb (8 kg) daikon , scrubbed yields the best results. The snowy pour in the soy sauce mixture .
2 ½ cups (r lb 2 oz/ 500 g) chuzarato white daikonskin should be taut and
[coarse brown sugar crystals] not wrinkled, tough , or discolored . Cover with an otoshibuta[drop lid]
2
/, cup (2½ oz / 70 g) mustard powder and set a 17 1/ 2 lb (8 kg) weight on
• 3 1h cups (27 fl oz / 800 ml) rice vinegar If the daikon is extra thi ck , halve it top of the drop lid. Cover with
7 ½ cups (ro fl oz/ r.8 liters) soy sauce lengthwise. In a medium bowl , mix a large piece of muslin cloth, and
· IO dried red japones chiles the chuzaratoand mustard powder tie twine around the circumference
and whisk in the vinegar to make of the pot to secure. Leave in
a smooth slurry. Stir in the soy a cool dark foroplace for at least
sauce. Wedge the daikon snugly into 2 weeks before eating.
BEER-PICKLED DAI KON
Preparation time, 15 minutes These pickles are made in the Secure a large piece of muslin
Pickling time, 2-3 days north of japan where the winters cloth on top of the crock with
Makes, 8 lb 13 oz (4 kg) are long and cold . Despite beer as twine . Leave in a cool , dark place
the pickling medium, and the spicy for 2-3 days until the daikon has
n lb (5 kg) daikon , scrubbed mustard, they are popular with absorbed flavor and started to
Generous 2 cups (17 fl oz / 500 ml) children and adults alike. ferment. Use over the course of
rice vinegar a month, but store outside in
r¼ cups (8¾ oz/ 250 g) organic sugar Halve the daikoncrosswise to fit into a cold, shady spot protected from
• ¾ cup plus I tablespoon (31/, oz / 95 g) a pickling crock able to hold double the elements . The pickles will last
mustard powder the volume of the daikon. Halve any for about I month , if stored
• ¾ cup plus I tablespoon (6¾ oz/r90 g) extra-thick pieces lengthwise. Align outside in the cold or refrigerated .
fine sea salt the daikonpieces , side by side , in the
I quart (32 fl oz/r liter) Jap anese beer , crock , making sure they are tightly
such as Yebisu wedged in. In a medium bowl, stir
the vinegar into the sugar, mustard
powder, and salt. Whisk in the
beer and pour over the daikonin
the crock . Place an otoshibuta[drop
lid] on top and set an II lb (5 kg)
weight on top of the drop lid .

HORSE MACKEREL SUSHI
Preparation time: 20 minutes, plus Mackerel , sardines, and aji [horse Lay out 4 large pieces of plastic
2 hours curing time mackerel] are especially good raw or wrap (clingfilm) on a work surface
Serves : 6 cured, rather than cooked , and are and divide the sushi rice equally
best in the spring to early summer among the pieces. Fashion the
2 lb (r kg) whole sashimi-grade horse when the fishes' natural oils are sushi rice into log shapes 6 inches
mackerel or sardines high. This sushi is best the first day, (15 cm) long and 2 inches (5 cm)
4 tablespoons rice vinegar but fine the next. in diameter. Remove the fish from
• I tablespoon mirin the sanbai;;:u
[seasoned vinegar]
l teaspoon fine sea salt Slice off the fish heads with a sharp and blot dry. Drape two fillets
3 pieces (6 inch1I5 cm each) konbu knife and run the knife down the diagonally over each log of sushi
• Sushi Rice (page 291) belly. Pull out the guts, separate the rice, covering as much of the rice
fillets from the center bone , and as you can . Wrap up in the plastic.
rinse well in 3 percent salt water
(to mimic seawater). Pat dry. Keep at room temperature , but
serve within I to 2 hours unless
In a small bowl, whisk together the weather is exceptionally warm,
the vinegar, mirin, and salt. Place in which case you should serve it
the konbu in a shallow pan with right away. Store in the refrigerator
the vinegar mixture, lay the horse (but be aware the rice tends to
mackerel fillets over the konbu and harden). Unwrap the sushi , dip
refrigerate for 2 to 3 hours. a sharp knife in rice vinegar , and
slice crosswise into ¾-inch (2 cm)
pieces before serving.

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nabemono
ONE-POTS
NABEMONO - ONE-POTS
Nabemono are some the most ingenious dishes created and

are made when time is of the essence. Nabemono is also the
entertaining dish of choice with young people, because it is
effortless to put together (cut up some ingredients and bring
to the table), affordable (depending on the meat or fish),
and everyone can participate in the cooking, which makes
it fun.
Nabe (one-pot dishes) are cooked in a flameproof
earthenware casserole called a donabeon a portable burner
at the table. Investing in both of these useful pieces of
equipment is worthwhile . You will get back above and beyond
what you spent through these easy one-pot meals. Though
just about any nabe can be cooked on the stove.
A range of recipes and methods are included in this
chapter, but the formula for putting together a nabe meal
is generally as follows: Fill a donabehalfway up with cold
water, drop in a generous piece of konbu, heat on the stove
until almost boiling. Then set over low heat on a portable
tabletop burner. Prepare the other ingredients that will
cook in the nabe, such as thinly sliced meat, chunks of fish or
chicken, cut vegetables, greens and mushrooms, and squares
of tofu. Bring those to the table . Put the chunky ingredients
in the donabe first, and once cooked, swish in thinly sliced
meat or fish, if using. Ladle out ingredients and soup into
individual bowls, flavor with ponzu and eat. Serve a bowl of
rice per person as well.
350 ~~ NAB EM O NO - 0 N E - POTS

CHICKEN AND SEAFOOD NABE
Preparation time, 15 minutes This dish comes from the medium-high heat for I minute
Cooking time, IO minutes Matsumae area of Hokkaido, the longer. Turn the chicken pieces,
Serves, 4 northernmost island prefecture prawns, and oysters over with
of Japan. Because of the small a pair of tongs , adjust the heat
3 pieces (6 inches/r5 cm each) konbu amount ofliquid , this is more to a gentle simmer, and cook for
• I lb 2 oz (500 g) boneless, skinless sukjyaki-style than brothy nabe. 2 minutes more .
chicken breast, cut crosswise into slices
½ inch (12 mm) thick Bring all the ingredients to the Serve in medium soup bowls
7 oz (200 g) negi or fat scallions table and set a cast-iron sukjyakipan splashed with poru:.uand garnished
(spring onions), cut crosswise into or skillet on a portable tabletop with the chives and momijioroshi.
¾-inch (2 cm) lengths burner . Arrange the konbu in the
4 large spot prawns, unpeeled , heads bottom of the pan and strew the
removed, shells snipped down the back chicken, negi, prawns , and shiitake
and deveined on top. Swirl in the dashi, bring to
8 medium shiitake, stems discarded a lively simmer over medium-high
· 2½ cups (20 fl oz/600 ml) heat, and cook for I minute. Add
Katsuobushi Dashi (page 156) in the oysters and simmer over
4 shucked oysters, about 4 1/2 oz (125 g)
• 2 tablespoons ponzu, for serving
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh
chives, for serving
2 tablespoons momiji oroshi
[chile-daikon condiment] , for serving
MILKY CHICKEN AND

VEGETABLE SOUP
Preparation time : 20 minutes Although today, Hokkaido produces soy sauce , salt, and milk. Slide
Cooking timec 20 minutes the majority of milk in the country, in the cabbage and spinach rolls.
Serves, 4 Nara is the ancient home of dairy and shiratakiand cook at a rolling
farming in Japan. This milky nabe simmer over medium heat for
2½ cups (20 fl oz/600 ml) Japanese originates from there . 5 minutes.
Chicken Broth (page 160)
I lb 2 oz (500 g) boneless, skinless In a donabe[flameproof earthenware Serve in large , donburi [deep soup
chicken thigh, cut into ¾-inch casserole] or Dutch oven (casserole), bowls] sprinkled with negiand ichimi
(2 cm) pieces bring the chicken broth to a boil togarashi,if desired .
• 2 medium carrots, cut into over high heat.
I¼-inch (3 cm) triangular chunks
(rangiri; see page 446) Set a portable tabletop burner on
8 medium shiitake, stems discarded the table, place the casserole on the
• ½ tablespoon mirin burner , and turn the burner to a
• I tablespoon soy sauce simmer . Slip the chicken , carrots,
• 2 teaspoons flaky sea salt and shiitakeinto the broth . Cook
2½ cups (20 fl oz/600 ml) whole milk for 2 minutes, then add the mirin,
Napa Cabbage and Spinach Rolls
(page 187)
14 oz (400 g) shirataki noodles
(r package) , halved crosswise
2 tablespoons finely chopped negi or
scallion (spring onion), for serving
lchimi togarashi [powderedJapanese
red chile], optional
351 NABEMONO - ONE - POTS

YUDOFU
Preparation time: 15 minutes Yudofu is a classic Kyoto dish and Set a portabl e tabletop burner
Cooking time, IO minutes its beauty lies in the simplicity in the middle of the table , place
Serves, 4 of the method and the clarit y of the konbubroth on the burner ,
th e ingredients . Find the most and turn the burner to medium-
6-inch (15 cm) piece konbu flavorful vegetables available for the high. Bring all of the ingredients
• 2 (ro½ oz / 300 g each) momendofu or best result. It is good on its own to the table. Add the shiitakeand
Japanese - style soft block tofu, as a first course, or with a bowl of tofu to the broth and simmer for
each cut int o eighths Japane se Rice (page 291) on the 3 minutes . Slide in the cabbage and
Napa Cabbage and Spinach Rolls side for a light meal. spina ch rolls and mitsuba.Cook for
(page 187) 2- 3 more minutes to heat though
8 medium shiitake, stems discarded Drop the konbu into the bottom of before serving .
2 large handfuls mitsuba, cut crosswise a donabe[flameproof earthenware
into r½ - inch (4 cm) lengths casserole] or Dut ch oven Give each person a medium soup
I tablespoon finely grated fresh ginger (casserole), and add r½ quarts bowl. Spoon a heaping ½ teaspoon
• 2 table spoons finely chopped (51 fl ozlr.5 liters) water . Bring of ginger , a heaping I tea spoon
fresh chives almost to a boil over high heat. chives , and 2 tablespoon s poru_u
• ½ cup (4 fl oz/125 ml) ponzu Remove from the stove. into each bowl. Ladle out the
ingredients into the bowls and
Place the tofu on a large dinner splash in more poru_u
, if desired.
plate or a platter . Arrange the
cabbage and spinach rolls on [Qj p.353
another plate or platter. Mound
th e shiitake and mitsuba together
in a bowl. Put the grated ginger
and chopped chive s into a small
bowl each .
SARDINE CHANKO NABE
Preparation time , 25 minutes Chankois a huge nabe, often made (5 cm) long batonnets and add
Cooking time, IO minutes with meat , fish , and vegetables, and to the broth with the napa
Serves, 6 is meant to satisfy the hunger of cabbage ( Chinese leaf). Once the
a ravenous sumo wrestler . Perfect soup has returned to a simmer,
11/a lb (600 g) fresh sardines for cold nights , served with a bowl 2-3 minutes , simmer for 2 minutes
IO cups (2.4 liters) Katsuobushi Dashi of hot rice on th e side. The garlic more . Slide in the bean sprouts,
(page 156) chives are an important flavoring garlic chives , sardines , usuage, and
½ cup (4 fl oz/120 ml) soy sauce here, so be sure to use 6 whole ginger. Simmer until the vegetables
• 4 tablespoons mirin chives, not just 6 garlic chive leaves. have soft ened, r-3 minutes.
2 medium carrots, scrubbed
I lb (450 g) napa cabbage (Chine se Cut off the heads of the sardine s Ladle out into large , donburi[deep
leaf), cut crosswise into 1½-i n ch and slice down through the belly. soup bowls] and drizzle I teaspoon
(4 cm) lengths Pull out the guts , vertebrae, and or so of ponzu into each bowl.
· 7 oz (200 g) moyashi [mung bean tail, and discard . Separate the two
sprouts] fillets, rinse under cold running [variation]
• 6 fat garlic chives, cut into r ½ -inch water , and pat dry. Quarter For a heartier version , omit the
(4 cm) length s cros swise . poru_uor soy sauce. Dollop in a small
2 usuage [deep-fried tofu pouches]. spoon of barley miso and a dab of
ea ch cut into 4 piec es Pour the dashi, soy sauce , and grat ed ginger into the donburi.
2 tablespoons slivered fresh ginger mirin into a donabe [flameproof
• 3 tablespoons ponzu earthenwar e casserole] or Dutch
oven (casserole) and bring to a
simmer over medium heat . Slice
the carrots into thin 2-inch
352 NABEMONO - ONE - POTS

OYSTER AND MISO NABE
Preparation time: 25 minutes Dote-style nabe is characterized by Place the donabeon the portable
Cooking time, 15 minutes the miso that coats the cooking tabletop burner and turn the
Serves: 4 vessel before the broth and other burner to medium. Pour in half
ingredients are added. Here, the of the konbu broth and bring to a
4 eggs, at room temperature miso is sandwiched with two layers simmer, 3-5 minutes, turning the
• 4 tablespoons soybean miso of negi. The broth in this dish is tofu pieces over to ensure even
% cup (7 oz/200 g) barley miso densely concentrated and like heating. Pour in the remaining
• 4 tablespoons mirin Sukiyaki (page 370), the flavorful dashiin a slow, steady stream. After
• 2 tablespoons sake ingredients are eaten with a beaten the oysters have plumped and are
7 oz (200 g) medium negi or fat raw egg. This is a very robust miso- cooked through, 3-5 minutes
scallions (spring onions), cut crosswise intense dish. longer (depending on size), ladle
into 1½-inch (4 cm) pieces the ingredients into the small bowls
• I lb 2 oz (500 g) shucked oysters Break an egg into each of the 4 of beaten egg and eat hot.
(see Note), rinsed in salt water small miso soup or rice bowls and
2 (IO½ oz/300 g) momendofu or beat lightly. Bring to the table along Note, Scallops or large shelled
Japanese-style soft block tofu, with a portable tabletop burner. shrimp (prawns) can substitute for
cut into eighths the oysters.
10½ oz (300 g) shungiku [edible In a bowl, mash together the
chrysanthemum greens], cut crosswise soybean miso, barley miso, mirin, and
into !½-inch (4 cm) pieces sake until well emulsified. Smear
2 ½ cups (20 fl oz/600 ml) Kon bu half of the miso mixture across
Dashi (page 156) the bottom and sides of a donabe
[flameproof earthenware casserole]
or Dutch oven (casserole). Strew
with half of the negi. Dollop the
remaining half of the miso on
top of the negi and smooth flat,
as best you can, using a rubber
spatula and small butter knife.
Scatter the remaining negiacross
the surface along with the oysters,
tofu, and shungiku.
354 NABEMONO - ONE-POTS

OYSTER NABE
Preparation time: 25 minutes The dote-style of nabe originates In a bowl, mash both misostogether
Cooking time, 15 minutes in Hiroshima and makes use of and smear around the inside of
Serves, 4-6 the abundance of shucked oysters a donabe[flameproof earthenware
produced in that area. Shungiku casserole] or medium cast-iron
12 shucked oysters, (I0-12 oz / [edible chrysanthemum greens] pot. Lay the konbu on the bottom
300-350 g) might prove challenging to source of the pot and add IO cups (2.4
I teaspoon flaky sea salt outside of Japan, so substitute liters) cold water. Set over high heat
½ lb (225 g) daikon, scrubbed another green, such as mustard. In and bring almost to a boil. Before
7 oz (200 g) shirataki noodles this version , the resulting misobroth the water comes to a full boil, add
(½ package) is lighter and more abundant, so the sake and cook for l minute.
· Boiling water the ingredients are not eaten with Add the oysters, daikon, shirataki
9 tablespoons brown rice miso or beaten egg. noodles, napa cabbage ( Chinese
barley miso leaf), shungiku,shiitake, negi, and tofu.
6 tablespoons white miso Put the oysters in a wire-mesh sieve, Simmer briskly until the vegetables
· 6-inch (15 cm) piece konbu sprinkle all sides of the oyst ers with and oysters are just cooked, about
· 4 tablespoons sake the salt, and let sit for 5 minutes . 5 minutes.
· ro½ oz (300 g) napa cabbage Rinse the oysters well under cool ,
( Chinese leaf), cored and cut crosswise running water and drain. Cut the Ladle out a portion of each
into r½-inch (4 cm) pieces daikon into 2-inch (5 cm) lengths. ingredient into 4-6 large , donburi
• 5¼ oz (150 g) shungiku [edible Cut those pieces lengthwise into [deep soup bowls], scraping up
chrysanthemum greens), cut crosswise slabs % inch (r cm) wide. Stack the the misoalong the sides of the pan.
into r½-inch (4 cm) pieces slabs and cut into thin rectangular Serve with a small bowl of rice on
6 medium shiitake, stems discarded and slices (tam:.uku-giri;see page 446) . the side.
caps halved Place the shiratakinoodles in a wire
4¾ oz (135 g) negi or 6 fat scallions mesh sieve and pour boiling water
(spring onions), cut crosswise into over them for IO seconds. Shake off
¾-inch (3 cm) pieces excess water and cut crosswise into
• I (ro½ oz/3 00 g) momendofu or r½-inch (4 cm) pieces.
Japanese -s tyle soft block tofu , cut into
6 pieces
· Japanese Rice (page 291) , for serving

SALMON NABE
Preparation time, 45 minutes lshikari , an area in Hokkaido, Place the tofu, layered cabbage
Cooking time, 25-35 minutes the northern island prefecture, is pieces, daikon, shiitake, and negi
Serves, 6 known for salmon, so this classic on the platter with the salmon ,
winter fisherman nabeis abundant keeping in mind attractive color
½ whole salmon (r¾ lb / 750 g), gutted, with it. Feel free to use a smaller arrangement. Bring the platter
scaled , and head removed amount and to substitute salmon to the table and mound half (or
2 pieces (6 inches/r5 cm each) konbu fillets. a quarter , depending on the size
• 2 (ro½ oz/ 300 g each) momendofu or of your pot) of each ingredient
Japanese-style soft block tofu, each cut Cut the salmon crosswise at a in the pot of konbubroth, keeping
into eighths I-inch (2. 5 cm) diagonal intervals them in separate areas, rather
• Layered Napa Cabbage and Spinach to create 2 - inch (5 cm) slices-the than scattering throughout . Cook
(page 187), cut into 12 pieces skin portion will be I inch (2 .5 cm) over medium-high heat at a lively
• ½ small daikon , I lb (450 g), halved and the flesh portion will be I-inch simmer.
lengthwise and cut crosswise into slices (2.5 cm) slices. Cut those slices
½ inch (12 mm) thick crosswise into chunks 2 inches Give each person a small soup bowl.
12 medium shiitake, stems discarded (5 cm) wide and mound on a Once the salmon and vegetables
and caps halved platter large enough to hold all are cooked, about 5 minutes, ladle
4 medium negi or 12 fat scallions of the ingredients . out all of the ingredients and some
(spring onions), cut crosswise into of the soup into the bowls . Each
r½-inch (4 cm) pieces In a large donabe[flameproof person should season with pon{U to
• Ponzu , for serving earthenware casserole) or Dutch taste-I to 2 teaspoons pon{U for
I tablespoon finely slivered yuzu or oven (casserole), combine 8 1h cups ½ cup (4 fl oz/r25 ml) ofbroth-
Meyer lemon zest (68 fl oz/2 liters) water and the and sprinkle in I pinch ofyuzu zest.
konbu and bring to a boil over
high heat. Set a portable tabletop Replenish the pot with another
burner on the table , place the round of the ingredients and
broth on the burner, and turn the once cooked , another 5 minutes ,
burner to a low simmer. ladle out. Repeat until all of the
ingredients are gone.
[Q] p.357
SHRIMP BALL NABE
Preparation time: Q5 minutes Shrimp balls are versatile and can In a donabe[flameproof earthenware
Cooking time, 15 minutes be served in a simple bowl of Clear casserole), combine 5 cups
Serves, 4 Fish Broth (page 160), rather than (40 fl oz/I. 2 liters) water and the
this nabe. Here they add a note of konbu. Set on a portable tabletop
I lb 2 oz (500 g) spot prawns, peeled, gorgeousness to the nabe, making burner at the table and bring
heads removed this dish an excellent candidate to almost to a boil over medium-
3 tablespoons all-purpose (plain) flour serve company , since often a home- high heat. Add the soy sauce and
· I teaspoon fine sea salt style nabeconsists of ingredients mirin and adjust to a simmer. Drop
I egg, at room temperature thrown together on the fly. tablespoon-size balls of the prawn
6-inch (15 cm) piece konbu mixture into the broth , and once
• 6 tablespoons soy sauce Chop the prawns coarsely and all of the mixture has been added
• 3 tablespoons mirin grind to a paste in a suribachi to the broth , simmer for 2 minutes
½ small head napa cabbage (Chinese [grinding bowl) or pulse in a food more. Add the napa cabbage
leaf), cored and cut crosswise into 2-inch processor . Scrape into a medium ( Chinese leaf) and shiitakeand cook
(5 cm) pieces bowl and pound in the flour and for 3 minutes. Stir in the mitsubaand
· 8 medium shiitake , stems discarded salt until well distributed . Beat cook for 30 seconds longer . Serve
13/+ oz (50 g) mitsuba, cut crosswise in the egg with a wooden spoon hot in individual bowls.
into r½-inch (4 cm) pieces until fluffy.
NABEMONO - ONE-POTS
CRAB AND MISO NABE
Preparation time: 25 minutes In Japanese the stomach contents Wash the crab shell and spoon the
Cooking time: 25 minutes of the crab is called "miso." In crab "miso" into the shell.
Serves: 6 English , there is no good word,
because it is not commonly eaten. Place the crab shell in the bottom
I block (9 oz/250 g) konnyaku The crab "m iso " is both sweet of a donabe[flameproof earthenware
½ teaspoon flaky sea salt and earthy, so it softens the salty casserole] and set the pot on a
• Boiling water miso, and lends depth to this portable tabletop burner over
I large cooked crab flavorful dish. medium - high heat. Slowly add the
(about 3 1/2 lb / 1.5 kg) dashi, pouring around the outside
4 tablespoons brown rice miso Tear the kon191akuinto walnut - size of the shell and inside as well, and
5 cups (40 fl oz/I. 2 liters) Kon bu pieces, rub with the salt, and place when the crab "miso" starts to melt ,
Dashi (page 156) in a wire-mesh sieve. Pour boiling about 2 minutes, add the sake, mirin,
I' /• cups (10 fl oz/300 ml) sake water over it for IO seconds and set and soy sauce. Simmer for I minute
• I tablespoon mirin the sieve in the sink to drain. before adding the crab, green beans,
2 tablespoons soy sauce kon191aku,
tofu , and negi(depending
½ lb (225 g) fat green beans , topped Pull the back off of the crab , but on the size of your pot . you might
and cut crosswise into I½-inch do not discard. Carefully scrape need to cook the ingredients in
(4 cm) pieces into a small bowl, to reserve, any two or three batches). Simmer for
I (10½ oz/300 g) momendofu or of the coral or white substance that 5 more minutes, blotting off any
Japanese-style soft block tofu, is adhering to the back shell or the top scum with a folded piece of
cut into eighths crab body. This is crab "miso." absorbent paper towel.
7 oz (200 g) negi or fat scallions Remove the gills and discard.
(spring onions) , cut crosswise into Quarter the crab bodies , and Serve ladled into large , donburi
I ½-inch (4 cm) pieces cut the legs and claws in thirds , [deep soup bowls]. Sprinkle with
Shichimi togarashi [seven -s pice diagonally . Add the brown rice miso shichimitogarashi,if desired.
powder], optional to the residual crab "miso" and
mash together until well emulsified. @ p.359
PORK AND CABBAGE NABE
Preparation time: 20 minutes There are myriad variations of Set a portable tabletop burner on
Cooking time: IO minutes cabbage and pork dishes all over the table, place the casserole on the
Serves: 4 Japan. Despite the simplicity of the burner, and bring to a simmer.
method and ingredients, this nabe is Bring all of the ingredients to
I usuage [deep-fried tofu pouch]. robust and full of flavor, and could the table. Add half of the pork ,
halved lengthwi se be doubled or tripled to feed a cabbage, carrot, usuage, and negito
· Boiling water hungry crowd. the simmering broth and cook until
I medium carrot, scrubbed and done, 3-5 minutes.
halved lengthwise Place the usuagein a wire-mesh sieve
5 cups (40 fl oz/I. 2 liters) Katsuobushi and pour a steady stream of boiling Ladle out a scoop of all of the
Dashi (page 156) water over it for IO seconds . Shake ingredients, plus soup, into
4 tablespoons soy sauce off excess water and cut crosswise individual bowls . Sprinkle with
• I tablespoon mirin into strips ½ inch (12 mm) wide. shichimitogarashi,if desired. Repeat
tablespoon sake
• I Cut the carrot crosswise into with the remaining ingredients for
I teaspoon flaky sea salt 1/+-inch (6 mm) half-rounds or a second round.
½ lb (225 g) pork belly, thinly sliced quarter-round s, depending on the
and cut crosswise into 2-inch thickness of the diameter.
(5 cm) pieces
7 oz (200 g) napa cabbage (Chinese In a donabe[flameproof earthenware
leaf) . cut crosswise into r½-inch cassero le] or Dutch oven (casserole),
(4 cm) pieces combine the dashi, soy sauce, mirin,
I lb (900 g) negi or fat scallions (spring sake, and salt.
onions), cut into %-inch (2 cm) lengths
powder]. optional

QUICK MIZUTAKI
Preparation time, 30 minutes While easily made at home, this Set a portable tabletop burner on
Cooking time, 20 minutes dish tends to be eaten more the table, place the casserole on
Serves, 6 commonly in restaurants. A small the burner, and turn the burner
bowl of Japanese rice will complete to medium heat. Cook at a lively
6¼ cups (50 fl oz/ r.5 liters)Japanese this meal. simmer until the chicken and
Chicken Broth (page 160) tofu have cooked through and the
1 lb 2 oz (500 g) boneless, skinless In a donabe[flameproof earthenware vegetable pieces and shiitakehave
chicken thigh, cut into ¾-inc h cassero le] or Dutch oven (cassero le), softened, 7-10 minutes.
(2 cm) pieces bring the chicken broth to a
4 3/• oz (135 g) negi or fat scallions boil over high heat. Slip the Ladle out, little by little, into small
(spring onions), cut crosswise into ¾-inc h chicken , negi,shiitake, tofu, and individual soup bowls and season
(2 cm) lengths napa cabbage ( Chinese leaf) into with a little each of the chive s, momiji
• 6 medium shiitake, stems discarded the soup. oroshi, and porv;u.
l (10½ oz/300 g) momendofu or
Japanese-style soft block tofu,
cut into eighths
7 oz (200 g) napa cabbage (Chinese
leaf), cut crosswise into 3/•-inch
(2 cm) lengths
2 tablespoons finely chopp ed fresh
chives , for serving
2 tablespoons momiji oroshi [grated
daikon mixed with ichimi togarashil,
for serving
• 2 tablespoons ponzu , for serving
SEAFOOD SUKIYAKI
Preparation time, 30 minutes The tri ck to successfu l seafood Mound about half of the negi,napa
Cooking time, 20 minutes sukjyakiis to keep the seasoning cabbage ( Chinese leaf), shiitake,
Serves, 4 lighter than when preparing the tofu, and shiratakinoodles each into
traditional meat version, since the its own area of the pan. Simmer
4 eggs , at room temperature seafood is more delicate and can be briskly until half done, about
11/, cups (IO fl oz/300 ml) Konbu Dashi easily overwhelmed. 3 minutes.
(page 156)
½ cup (4 fl oz/125 ml) soy sauce Give each person a small soup bowl Remove the heads from the prawns,
• 4 tablespoons mirin and a raw egg to break into the and using a knife , make slits across
7 oz (200 g) negi or fat scallions (spring bowl. Each person should beat the the back of the prawns to devein.
onions) , cut crosswise into I ½-inch raw egg to use as a dipping sauce. Cut the snapper into 2-inch
(4 cm) pieces (5 cm) pieces. Turn the vegetables
l lb (450 g) napa cabbage (Chinese leaf) Set a portable tabletop burner on and nestle about half of the prawns,
· 8 small shiitake caps the table. Set a cast-iron sukjyaki scallops, and snapper into the pan.
2 (10 1
/2 oz/300 g each) momendofu or pan or skillet on the burner and Turn the seafood pieces after 2
Japanese - style soft block tofu, each cut measure in the dashi, soy sauce, minutes and simmer until cooked
into sixths and mirin. Bring to a simmer over through , about 3 more minutes.
14 oz (400 g) shirataki noodles medium-high heat.
(1 package) , halved crosswise Serve a ladleful in each bowl of
• 8 spot prawns, unpeeled Core the cabbage and cut crosswise beaten egg. Replenish the pan and
½ lb (225 g) skinless red snapper fillets into 2-inch (5 cm) pieces. cook the second batch, using up all
• 8 sea scallops, halved of the ingredients.
3 1/2 oz (100 g) mitsuba, cut crosswise
into 1½-inch (4 cm) pieces
NABEMONO - ONE-POTS
STEWED CHICKEN AND
VEGETABLES
Preparation time, 30 minutes Mitutaki[stewed chic ken and Cut the remaining 4 stalks of negi
Cooking t im e, l hour at the stove, vegetables] is not commonly made (or 12 fat scall ion s) crosswi se into
and IO minutes at the table at home, because whole chickens 11/+- inch (3 cm) pieces. Heap th e
Serves, 6 (and bone - in chicken parts) are cut negi, napa cabbage (Chinese
not easy to find in Japan, making leaf), and shiitakeon platt ers and
1 whol e chicken (3V• lb/1.5 kg), cut this more of a dish ordered at carry to the table along with a small
through the bone into 4-inch restaurants. This recipe starts with a bowl eac h of the chopped scalli ons
(TO cm) pieces whole chicken , which when cooked (spring onions) and grated ginger.
14 oz (400 g) negi or fat scallions makes a broth , but you can make
(spring onions) , trimmed but whole a shortcut version with prepared Set the burner to medium-high
14 oz (400 g) napa cabbage ( Ch inese chicken broth (store-bought or and bring the broth , soy sauce ,
leaf) , cu t crosswise into 2 - inch homemade) and boneless, skin l ess and mirin to a simmer. Add the
(5 cm) pieces chunks of chicken. Feel free to negi, cabbage, and shiitakeby large
12 small shiitake , stems discarded cook and serve from the stovetop. handfuls (keeping each ingr edient
3 tablespoons finely ch opped scallion Japanese would typically eat this in its own area) until they have
(spring onion) tops dish with a bowl of rice on the side, all been added. Cook at a lively
3 table spoons grated fresh ginger but also might add the rice to the simmer until the vegetables h ave
6 tablespoons soy sauce last bits of soup to make a creamy, softened, abo ut 5 minute s.
• 2 tablespoons mirin ri so tto-like finish to the meal.
• Flaky sea salt , optional Ladle into large, donburi [deep soup
In a donabe[flameproof earthenware bowls] and garnish with the scall ion
casserole] or enameled cast-iron and ginger. Sprinkle with flaky sea
pot, combine the chicken pieces , salt, if needed.
2 who le negi(or 6 fat scallion s
[spring onions]), and IO cups
(2 .4 liters) water . Bring to a boil
over hi gh heat, adjust to a simmer,
and cook for I hour to extract
flavor. Add water if need be as th e
soup simmers -you want to end up
with about 6 cups (I. 5 liters) . Skim
off any scum, remove the 2 sta lks
of negi, and disc ard . Set a portable
tabletop burner on the table and
place the casserole on the burner.
NABEMONO - ONE-POTS
MISO CHICKEN BALLS AND
NAPA SOUP
Preparation time, 45 minutes Once meat began to be consumed Working in two batches, drop
Cooking time, 30 minute s inJapan a few hundred years ago, rounded tablespoons of the chicken
Serves, 4 it was more of a seasoning than a mixture into the soup and simmer
main ingredient. But a favorite way over medium - low heat for about
I lb 2 oz (500 g) ground (minced) to showcase meat is by using ground 2 minutes. Then add about half
chicken (minced) fish, chicken , and pork to of the negi, napa cabbage (Chinese
2 tablespoons potato starch make meatballs. These "meatballs " leaf), shungiku,shiitake,and tofu .
2 tablespoons barl ey miso or brown are sometimes formed into ovals Cook at a brisk simmer for about
rice miso and fried , but are most often 5 more minutes.
I tablespoon mirin simmered in soup.
5 cups (40 fl oz/r. 2 liters) Katsuobushi Portion out into small , individual
Dashi (page 156) Place the ground (minced) chicken soup bowls. Spoon in chives, momiji
I egg, at room temperature in a medium bowl and sprinkle the oroshi,and po"'-ufor flavoring and
4 3/• oz (135 g) negi or fat scallions potato starch over it. Mix in the serve hot with a bowl of rice on the
(spring onions), cut crosswise into miso. Add the mirin , I tablespoon of side. Repeat with the remaining
¾-inch (2 cm) lengths the dashi, and the egg and beat all ingredients to make a second round.
14 oz (400 g) napa cabbage (Chinese of the ingredients with a wooden
leaf), cut crosswise into ! ½ -inch spoon , until well emulsified.
(4 cm) lengths
· 5 '/• oz (150 g) shungiku [edible Set a p o rtable tabletop burner
chrysanthemum leaves] , cut crosswise on the table and place a donabe
into 1½-inch (4 cm) lengths [flameproof earthenware cassero le]
· 8 medium shiitake, stems discarded or Dutch oven (casserole) on the
I (ro½ oz/300 g) momendofu or burner. Pour the remaining dashi
Japanese - style soft block tofu, into the casserole and bring to
cut into eighths a boil over medium-high heat.
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh Bring the chicken mixture and all
scallions (spring onions), for serving of the vegetables to the table . Bring
· 2 tablespoons momiji oroshi [grated small bowls of the scallions (spring
daikon with ichimi togarashi], for serving onions) , momijioroshi, and po"'-u for
• 2 tablespoons ponzu, for serving garnishing.
• Japanese Rice (page 291), for serving
NABEMONO - ONE-POTS
MISO ODEN
Preparation time, 30 minutes Convenience stores all over Japan Scrape the chicken mixture into
Cooking time, 25 minutes offer containers full of simmering a I-cup (8 fl oz/250 ml) heavy
Serves, 4 oden (fish sausage and root ceramic tumbler (or handleless
vegetables) in the winter. Preparing mug) and set inside of a donabe
2 lb (900 g) daikon , scrubbed this dish at home makes more [flameproof earthenware casserole]
and cut crosswise into sense, since using high-quality or Dutch oven (casserole). Pour
3/ 4-inch (2 cm) slices ingredients will yield superior the remaining dashiinto the
• 2 blocks (8'12 oz/ 240 g each) atsuage results. Here, chicken replaces fish casserole (not the tumbler) with the
[deep-fried tofu], optional sausage, acquiring universal appeal. remaining 2 tablespoons mirin and
• 9 oz (250 g) konnyaku And the fragrant miso and ginger the soy sauce . Stick the skewered
I (ro½ oz/300 g) momendofu or lend a lovely, warming flavor to tofu and vegetables into the broth.
Japanese-style soft block tofu, the soup.
cut into eighths Set a portable tabletop burner
• Boiling water Bevel the edges of the daikonslices in the middle of the table, place
2 tablespoons canola (rapeseed) oil with a small paring knife, so that the casserole on the burner , and
ro½ oz (300 g) finely ground they are rounded and cut into turn the burner to medium - high .
(minced) chicken quarter pieces. Put the atsuag,and Cook at a strong simmer until the
I tablespoon finely chopped kon'!Yakuinto a large wire-mesh sieve ingredients on the sticks are heated
fresh ginger and pour a steady stream of boiling through and hot , 5-7 minutes.
8 tablespoons brown rice miso water over them for I minute . Cut Diners should dip the skewers
4 tablespoons inaka miso or shiro them both into thin (¼ inch/ into the chicken mixture in the cup
[white] miso 5 mm) rectangles measuring before eating.
I teaspoon shichimi togarashi ¾ x r'/2 inches (4 x I cm). Thread
[seven - spice powder] 2 pieces each of the daikon,atsuag,,
• 6 tablespoons mirin kon'!Yaku,and tofu alternating them,
5 cups (40 fl oz/r. 2 liters) Katsuobushi on short bamboo skewers.
Dashi (page 156)
4 tablespoons soy sauce In a large frying pan or wok , heat
the oil over medium heat. Add the
chicken and ginger and stir-fry,
breaking up lumps, until the meat
loses all of its pink and is pebbly ,
3-5 minutes. Remove from the
heat and smooth in both of the misos
and the shichimitogarashiand stir to
incorporate. Stir in 4 tablespoons
of the mirin and 6 tablespoon s of
the dashi. Simmer over medium-low
heat, stirring, until the mixture is
glossy and thick , 5-7 minutes .
NABEMONO - ONE-POTS
GENGHIS KHAN
Preparation time, 25 minutes, Genghis Khan is cooked at the table Bring the vegetables and a tabletop
plus I hour marinating time on a special convex-style cast - iron burner to the table. Arrange
Cooking time, 20 minutes grill pan that resembles Genghis the meat on a separate dinner
Serves, 6 Khan's hat. However , a flat cast - plat e (along with the marinating
iron skillet or sukjyakipan can be liquids and n,gi) and bring to the
For the lamb and vegetables, substituted. Although this lamb table. Spoon out a dollop of the
I½ lb (675 g) mutton or lamb , cut into dish is purported to have originated dipping sauce into each of 6 small
¼-inch (6 mm) slices in Tokyo , it is now associated with saucers for dipping the meat and
4 tablespoons finely chopped thin negi Hokkaido, which is Japan's primary vegetables .
or scallions (spring onions) sheep-farming area. Any seasonal
• 2 tablespoons sake vegetables , greens, and mushrooms Heat the Genghis Khan pan over
• l can be substituted for these medium heat and place a quarter
½ small seeded and slightly peeled summer ones. of each ingredient so the pieces are
kabocha (Japanese pumpkin), touching the grill surface. Turn
,9 oz (250 g) Prepare the lamb, Place the lamb after 2 minutes or so and cook
9 oz (250 g) Japanese eggplants and negiin a bowl. Stir together the until the vegetables have released
(aubergines) , stem ends trimmed sakeand soy sauce , add to the bowl, their juice and the meat is partially
10½ oz (300 g) komatsuna Uapanese and toss with the negiand meat. Let cooked.
mustard greens] or mu stard greens , cut sit for l hour.
crosswise into 2-inch (5 cm) pieces Mound the rice in 6 small bowls
• 2 medium onions, cut into ¼ - inch Meanwhile , prepare the vegetables, and give each person a small
(6 mm) rounds Cut the kabocha into half or saucer of dipping sauce. People
3 1/+ oz (100 g) small green peppers, quarter wedges 1/+ inch (6 mm) should serve themselves by picking
cored and quartered thick . Cut the eggplant lengthwise up the cooked ingredients with
into 1/+-inch (6 mm) sli ces. chopsticks, dipping a corner in the
For the dipping sauce , Arrange the kabocha, eggplant sesame sauce , and dropping them
3 tablespoons gold sesame seeds (aubergine), komatsuna, onions , directly on the rice. Replenish the
• l tablespoon gold sesame oil and green peppers in a flat basket ingredients after each round has
• 2 tablespoons soy sauce or large platter. been served .
• 2 tablespoons usukuchi shoyu
• l ½ tablespoons mirin Make the dipping sauce, In a
• l tablespoon brown rice vinegar small , dry frying pan, toast the
11/+ cups (300 ml) Katsuobushi Dashi sesame seeds over medium heat
(page 156) until fragrant , shaking the pan
l small fresh or dried red chile, cut into and lifting off the heat if needed
fine rings to avoid scorching. Slide into a
• Japanese Rice (page 291), for serving suribachi [grinding bowl] or spice /
nut grinder and process until
powdery. Whisk the sesame oil, soy
sauce, usukuchish(!Yu,min·n, brown
rice vinegar , and dashi into the
ground sesame seeds. Stir in the
chile. In a small saucepan, bring
to a simmer over medium heat and
cook 2-3 minutes, until reduced
by one third.
NABEMONO - ONE-POTS
ONE-POT PORK AND
NAPA CABBAGE
Preparation time: 15 minutes Nabemono [one-pot dishes] are Measure 2 quarts (64 fl oz/2 liters)
Cooking time, 20 minutes popular in the wintertime in Japan water into a donabe[flameproof
Serves, 6 because the formula is quite easy, earthenware casserole] or Dutch
konbu, greens, negi, fish or meat , oven (casserole), drop in the
ro½ oz (300 g) napa cabbage (Chinese and tofu are about all you need konbu, and bring to a simmer over
leaf) , cut crosswise into I½ -inch to whip up a nabe dish at the last medium high heat.
(4 cm) pieces minute. If serving with ponzu, then
· 7 oz (200 g) negi or fat scallions there is no need to flavor the dish Set a portable tabletop burner in
(spring onions), cut crosswise into beyond what the konbu and other the middle of the table, place the
1½ - inch (4 cm) pieces ingredients impart. Served with casserole on the burner. and turn
• 5'/• oz (150 g) shungiku [edible a small bowl of Japanese rice on the burner to medium-high. Add
chrysanthemum greens], cut the side, it is a complete meal. about half of each of napa cabbage,
crosswise into 1½-inch (4 cm) pieces Ask your butcher to thinly slice the negi, shungiku,shiitake, and tofu-each
• 12 shiitake , stems discarded pork shoulder. in its own distinct area-and cook
2 (ro½ oz/300 g each) momendofu at a lively simmer until they have
or Japanese-style soft block tofu, Mound the napa cabbage (Chinese cooked through , about 3 minutes.
each cut into 6 pieces leaf) , negi, shungiku,shiitake, tofu, and
• 1 (1/, lb / 600 g) thinly sliced pork meat on a large platter, keeping Each person shou ld pour a
shoulder, sliced crosswise into 1½-inch in mind color placement for an ½ tablespoon or so of ponzu into
(4 cm) pieces attractive presentation. Spoon the his or her bowl along with a small
2 tablespoons grated daikon or momiji grated daikon (if using) into one amount of grated daikon (if using)
oroshi [grated daikon with ichimi small bowl and the chopped chives and l pinch of chives. Ladle out
togarashi]. optional into another. Bring all of the some the ingredients into each
2 tablespoons finely chopped chives or ingredients to the table. Give each small bowl , swish a piece or two of
scallions (spring onions) person a small bowl and a pair of pork in the broth for a few seconds,
6-inch (15 cm) piece konbu chopsticks. until no longer pink, and eat
• Ponzu, for serving together with th e vegetables. Adjust
the seasonings as desired.
NABEMONO - ONE-POTS
MISO AND MACKEREL
CHANKO NABE
Preparation time, 25 minutes Sumo wrestlers are legendary for Measure the miso into a large ladle
Cooking time: IO minutes their immense appetites and chanko and whisk a little of the broth into
Serves, 6-8 is a style of stew that contains a bit the miso to loosen. Stir the miso into
of everything. While here there is the pot along with the mackerel and
9 oz (250 g) konnyaku, torn into no meat, the variety of vegetables bean sprouts. Bring back to a boil
bite-size pieces more than make up for its absence. before serving in large donburi [deep
· Boiling water To add earthier flavor, substitute soup bowls] . Sprinkle with shichimi
4 '/+ cups (32 fl oz/I liter) sake part of the barley or brown rice miso togarashi, if desired.
· 2 (6 - inch/15 cm) piece konbu with Hatcho or soybean miso.
I lb (450 g) napa cabbage ( Chinese
le af) , cut crosswise into 1 1/-t- inch Drop the kon'!)lakuinto a wire-mesh
(3 cm) lengths sieve and pour a steady stream of
3 1/ 2 oz (roo g) burdock root , scrubbed boiling water over it for IO seconds .
and cut on a diagonal into 1/+-inch
(6 mm) pieces Add 3 quarts (3 liters) water and
• ½ lb (225 g) daikon, scrubbed, the sake to a donabe [flameproof
quartered lengthwise, and sliced 1/+-inch earthenware casserole] or Dutch
(6 mm) thick oven (casserole). Drop in the konbu,
I medium carrot , scrubbed, halved kon'!Yaku, napa cabbage (Chinese
lengthwise , and sliced 1/+- inch leaf) , burdock , daikon, carrot ,
(6 mm) thick ginger, onion, and tofu. Bring to
I tablespoon slivered fresh ginger a boil and cook at a lively simmer
• I small onion , cut into 6 wedges until the root vegetables are cooked
2 (ro½ oz/300 g) momendofu or through, 5-7 minutes .
Japanese-style soft block tofu,
cut into 6 piece s
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons (6 oz/r70 g)
barley miso or brown rice miso
r½ lb (700 g) mackerel fillets, cut into
1½-inch (4 cm) cubes
7 oz (200 g) moyashi [mung bean
sprouts]
powder], optional
~!jo/.) NAB EM ONO - ONE-POTS

DAIKON AND PORK
SOBORO NABE
Preparation time: 15 minutes Simmered daikonholds its shape well onion, tomatoes , and salt and
Cooking time, 20 minutes and , at its perfect state of donene ss, stir - fry over high heat for 5 more
Serves, 6 is juicy and silky. The tomato- minutes.
meat mixture is a m oder n version
• 2 lb (900 g) daikon of soboro, a method of simmering In a donabe [flameproof earthenware
I medium carrot, scrubbed down meat or fish to a dry crumble. casserole] , bring the dashito a
I tablespoon canola (rapeseed) oil A small bowl of rice on the side simmer over high heat. Drop in the
I lb (450 g) finely ground (minced) pork would make this a hearty meal. daikon and carrot and simmer for
· 8 small shiitake caps finely chopped 3 minutes. Scrape the meat mixture
· I small onion, diced Quarter the daikonlengthwise ; then into the pot and cook at a brisk
6 small canned whole peeled tomatoes, bevel the edges of the daikon and simmer for another 3-5 minutes .
finely chopped cut crosswise into 3/+-inch (2 cm) Add the komatsuna,soy sauce , and
½ teaspoon flaky sea salt thick quarters. Halve the carrot mirinand cook 3 minutes more .
1
5 cups (40 fl oz/I. 2 liters) Katsuobushi lengthwise; then slice into /+-i nch
Dashi (page 156) (6 mm) half-moons . Set aside . Set a portable tabletop burner on
7 oz (200 g) komatsuna Uapanese the table, place the casserole on the
mustard greens]. bok choy , or mustard In a large frying pan, heat the oil burner, and keep at a simmer over
greens, cut crosswise into 1½-inch over medium heat. Drop in the low heat. Ladle out into small soup
(4 cm) pieces pork and stir-fry until most of the bowls. Sprinkle with shichimi togarashi.
• I tablespoon soy sauce pink has disappeared , 3-5 minutes.
• ½ tablespoon mirin Increase the heat to medium-high
Shichimi togarashi [seven-spice powder], and cook, stirring , until browned,
for serving l-2 minutes. Scrape in the shiitake,
WILD BOAR MISO NABE
Preparation time: 15 minutes While not commonly eaten in In a donabe[flameproof earthenware

Cooking time, 20 minutes cities, wild boar is cons umed in casserole] or Dutch oven
Serves, 6 mountainous regions and sma ll (casserole) , bring the dashito a boil
islands all over Japan . The natural over high heat. Whisk the sakeinto
IO½ oz (300 g) komatsuna Uapanese sweetness of the white miso here the misoand stir into the dashiwith
mustard greens] or mustard greens, cut balances the strong, gaminess the salt . Bring a tabletop burner to
crosswise into r½-inch (3 cm) pieces of the boar. The Japanese name the table and place the pot on
• 4'/• oz (135 g) negi or fat sca llion s for this nabeis "Botan Nabe" and a burner over medium - high heat.
(spring onions), cut crosswise into harkens back to the days when
r½-inch (3 cm) pieces eating meat was forbidden. This Drop half of the komatsuna, negi,
9 oz (250 g) burdock, scrubbed and cut secret name (which means "peony burdock, and shiratakiinto diff e rent
on the bias into 1/+-inch . (6 mm) pieces nabe") is meant to hide that meat is areas of the pot. Slide in half of
2 (ro½ oz/300 g each) momendofu or included. Substitute pork belly if the tofu and a generous portion of
Japanese-style soft block tofu _ you can't source boar. boar meat as well . Cook at a brisk
· 14 oz (400 g) shirataki noodles simmer for 5-7 minutes, until the
(r package) , drained and halved crosswis e Arrange the komatsuna,negi, and vegetables have softened and the
r 3/+ lb (800 g) wild boar shoulder meat, burdock on a large dinner plate. meat is cooked.
thinly sliced Cut each block of tofu into sixths,
5 cups (40 fl oz/r200 ml) Katsuobushi and place it on a platter with the Ladle out into the individual bowls.
Dashi (page 156) shiratakinoodles. Drape the meat Sprinkle with ichimitogarashi.Repeat
4 tabl espoons sake across a plate . Bring all of the with the remaining ingredients for
½ cup (4 3/+ oz/135 g) white miso ingredients to the table and set a a second round .
• ½ teaspoon flaky sea salt small bowl with a pair of chopsticks
lchimi togarashi [powderedJapanese at each place.
red chilel, for serving
NABEMONO - ONE-POTS
SUKIYAKI
Preparation time: 20 minutes Sukjyakiis most often eaten at Push the vegetables aside to clear an
Cooking time, 20 minutes restaurants, perhaps because area to start cooking the meat and
Serves, 6 high-quality beef was not readily lay a few pieces of meat down. The
available to the average home cook meat only needs a few seconds on
1½ lb (675 g) marbled sirloin, until the mid-199os. In any case, each side to cook, so be quick about
machine-cut crosswise into 1/16-inch sukjyakiis easily prepared
at home serving and adding more meat.
(2 mm) thin slices by the butcher (and much less expensive than the As the liquids boil off, replenish
• ro'/2 oz (300 g) shungiku [edible restaurant version). with equal parts dashi, mirin, and soy
chrysanthemum greens], cut crosswise sauce. There should be a bare film
into 1¾-inch (4 cm) pieces Place the sirloin on a large platter on the bottom of the pan since
• 4 thin negi or 6 fat scallions (spring and mound the shungiku,negi, and you want the meat to sear, but also
onions), cut crosswise into 13/+-inch shiitakealongside. Add the tofu and absorb flavor.
(4 cm) lengths the shiratakinoodles and bring to
· 16 shiitake, stems discarded the table. Ladle out portions of the
I (10½ oz/300 g) momendofu or ingredients and meat into the
Japanese-style soft block tofu, Give each person a small empty individual bowls with beaten
cut into sixths bowl into which to break a raw egg raw egg . Eat hot with a bowl of
I package (14 oz/ 400 g) shirataki and then whisk with chopsticks. Japanese rice on the side.
noodles (page 439), drained in a wire-
mesh sieve and doused for IO seconds Set an 8-inch cast iron sukjyakipan Continue cooking, serving, and
with boiling water or frying pan on a tabletop burner eating in batches until all of the
• 6 very fresh eggs, at room temperature at the table. Add 4 tablespoons each ingredients have been used up.
Konbu Dashi (page 156) konbudashi, mirin, and soy sauce to
· Mirin the pan and bring to a simmer over
Soy sauce medium-low heat. Add about half
· Japanese Rice (page 291), for serving of the shirataki,tofu, shiitake, negi,
and shungiku-placing each in its own
distinct area. Simmer briskly over
medium heat, until the vegetables
are almost done and the tofu and
shiratakiare heated through,
2-3 minutes.

MISO-SIMMERED PORK BELLY
AND GREEN PEPPER
Preparation time: 25 minutes There are a few more steps involved Set a portable tabletop burner on
Cooking time: 5 minutes in this nabethan most others, the table . Place a donabe[flameproof
Serves: 6 namely skewering and frying before earthenware cassero le] on the
simmering. But the steps are worth burner and add the dashi, mirin, and
r lb 2 oz (500 g) pork belly the effort, because the frying soy sauce. Bring to a simmer over
IO oz (275 g) piman or small green renders out some pork fat and medium heat. Ladle out a small
peppers, cut into ½-inch leaves the meat succulent, but be amount of the soup and whisk into
(r2 mm) wedges sure to use pork without the rind . the miso. Scrape the misoback into the
7 oz (200 g) negi or fat scallions Simmering the skewered meat and pot and add the skewered pork and
(spring onions), cut into r½-inch vegetables in soybean miso-flavored vegetables. Simmer, tipping the pot
(4 cm) lengths dashigives the dish richness. to "baste " the top of the skewered
• Unbleached all - purpose (plain) flour, meat and vegetables, for 2 minutes.
for dredging Cut the pork into % inch
Neutral oil such as canola (rapeseed), (r cm) slices. Cut those slices into Serve, with a little of the simmering
peanut, or safflower, for frying r½ inch (4 cm) squares. Divide the soup, sprinkled with shichimitogarashi,
• 2½ cups (20 fl oz/600 ml) pork, piman, and negiinto I2 piles if desired.
Katsuobushi Dashi (page r56) and thread onto I2 (7-inch/r8 cm)
• 2 tablespoons mirin bamboo skewers, alternating the
• I tablespoon soy sauce ingredients so the pork is always
• 2 tablespoons soybean miso sandwiched between the negiand
Shichimi togarashi [seven-spice pi man. Roll the skewers in flour and
powder]. optional shake off the excess.
In a large deep frying pan , heat

¾ inch (2 cm) oil over medium-
low heat until hot , but not
smoking . Add the skewers and fry
until browned , I minute on each
side. Drain on absorbent paper
towels and discard the oil.

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kanmi
SWEETS
KANMI - SWEETS
TraditionalJapanese sweets are served with green tea in the

afternoon or when you have guests . Because green tea is
bitter, these sweets are often quite sweet, and are typically
stuffed with anko [sweet red bean paste] or sweetened kuri
[chestnut] and are often dusted with kinako [soy flour]
or
kirigoma [smashed toasted sesame seeds] . Others are napped
with kuromitsu [black sugar syrup]. There is also a category
of sweets called yokon made using agar agar to solidify.
Dessert was not traditionally part of the Japanese meal,
because sweetness came about naturally throughout the
meal through the use of mirin, which smoothes out-and
gives balance to-the salty and sour notes. Since the r98os,
even kaiseki [multicourse formal menus] includes a piece
of fruit at the end of the meal. Modern-day Japanese
restaurants commonly serve dessert, though they still lean
toward lightness - and fruit, nuts, or sesame seeds are often
a component.
Even today , ovens are not standard equipment in
a Japanese kitchen, though most people now have toaster
(mini) ovens and/or an "oven-range" (a countertop
portable oven that doubles as a microwave). As a result,
many Japanese sweets are steamed-not baked.
376 1:/"ll;jc KANMI ~ SWEETS

APPLE BREAD
Preparation time: 30 minutes Steamed breads and cakes sweetened Set up a steamer and bring the
Cooking time, 20 minutes, plus only naturally with fruit and nuts water to a boil. Place the pan in the
cooling time were typical tea snacks in frugal steamer basket, cover, and steam
Makes, 2 (2- x 4-inch/5 x IO cm) post-WWUJapan when sugar was until set, about 20 minutes. Let
small loaves (serves 6-8) dear. This apple bread harkens back cool 5 minutes before unmolding
to that era. and placing on a wire rack. Blot the
8 oz (225 g) sweet apples, peeled, top dry with an absorbent paper
cored, and cut into eighths Cut the apple pieces crosswise into towel and allow to cool completely
1
2 cups (IO½ oz/300 g) unbleached /+-inch (6 mm) slices and soak in before slicing and serving.
cake flour a bowl of lightly salted water.
2 teaspoons baking powder Any uneaten pieces can be wrapped
1/2teaspoon ground cinnamon In a medium bowl, whisk together in foil for up to 3 days. Toast the
• I teaspoon fine sea salt the flour, baking powder, slices and top with butter before
4 eggs, at room temperature cinnamon, and salt. Make a well serving.
I cup (8 fl oz/250 ml) whole milk and break the eggs into the well
• 6 tablespoons (3 oz/85 g) unsalted with the milk and melted butter.
butter , melted, plus more (optional) Whisk to form a smooth batter.
for toasting
4 tablespoons raisins, soaked in warm Drain the apples and pat dry. Drain
water for IO minutes the raisins. Fold the apples , raisins,
1
/+ cup (r oz/ 3 O g) finely and walnuts into the batter. Line
chopped walnuts two (2- by 4-inch/5 by IO cm)
small loaf pans with foil. Smooth
the batter into the pans and fix the
apples so they are well distributed
and lying flat.
STEAMED APPLES AND

SWEET POTATOES
Preparation time: 30 minutes When steamed together, apples, Drain the apple pieces and divide
Cooking time, 25 minutes raisins, and sweet potatoes all meld the sweet potato, lemon, and apples
Serves, 6 together into a comforting, healthy into thirds. In a IO x 7-inch
sweet. This is often served with (25 x r7 .5 cm) oval ovenproof
I lb (450 g) sweet apples, peeled, afternoon tea. gratin pan, make a layer of sweet
cored, and quartered potato, arrange a layer of apple on
¾ teaspoon fine sea salt Cut the apple quarters lengthwise top, followed by a layer of lemon
• II oz (325 g) sweet potato, into ¼-inch (6 mm) slices. Soak slices. Repeat 2 more times. Strew
well scrubbed the apple slices in generous with the sauteed raisins and cover
I medium lemon , peel sliced off 2 cups (17 fl oz/500 ml) cold water tightly with foil.
2 tablespoons raisins , soaked in warm with the salt. Slice the unpeeled
water for IO minutes sweet potato and the peeled lemon Set up a steamer and bring the
1
• I teaspoon butter crosswise into /+-inch (6 mm) water to a boil. Arrange the baking
rounds. Pry out the lem on seeds dish in the steamer basket, cover,
and discard. and steam until the sweet potato
and apples have cooked through ,
Drain the raisins. In a small 20-25 minutes. Serve hot or room
saucepan, heat the butter over temperature.
medium heat , add the r aisins and
cook over medium heat until soft
and plump, I-2 minutes.
377 KANMI - SWEETS

OHAGI
Preparation time: 30 minutes, plus Also called botanmochi, various and mash to a paste in suribachi
overnight soaking versions of ohagi[sweet rice balls] [grinding bowl] or food processor
Cooking time: 55 minutes are made all over Japan for with the sugar and salt.
Makes: 12 sweets different kinds of celebrations.
Make the kurogoma-ae, In a small
2¼ cups (450 g) uncooked glutinous/ Wash the glutinous rice according saucepan, warm the sesame seeds
sweet rice to the directions for Japanese Rice over medium heat until fragrant.
(page 291) , but soak overnight. Transfer to a suribachi[grinding
For the anko [sweet red bean paste]: Cook as directed in the recipe and bowl] and grind until halfway
1
/+ cup (2 oz/55 g) dried azuki beans rest for 5 minutes. broken down, then mix in the sugar
· l tablespoon organic sugar and salt.
• l small pinch fine sea salt Make the anko: Soak the Cl.{Uki
beans
overnight in water to cover. Drain, Dump the cooked rice into a
For the zunda [sweet green soybean paste]: put in a small heavy saucepan, and large , heavy bowl and pound with
IO oz (300 g) unshelled edamame fill with fresh water to cover by 11/+ a wooden surikogi[grinding pestle]
· l tablespoon organic sugar inches (3 cm). Bring to a boil over or the end of a fat (handleless)
• l small pinch fine sea salt high heat, then adjust to a simmer rolling pin until the rice grains are
and cook for about 15 minutes . partially broken down to a semi -
For the kurogoma-ae [sweet black sesame]: Pour in 1/+ cup (2 fl oz/60 mi) cold homogenous consistency . Once
2 tablespoons black sesame seeds water, bring back to a simmer , and the rice is cool enough to handle,
• ½ tablespoon organic sugar continue cooking for 15minutes , but not completely cold, dip your
• l small pinch fine sea salt until the beans are beginning to hands into cold water and form
soften. Stir in the sugar and salt and into 12 plump oblongs.
continue simmering , stirring occa-
sionally, until the beans are falling Smooth the red bean paste around
apart and most of the water has 4 rice oblongs to completely
evaporated , about 15 minutes. Mash enrobe, and the edamamepaste
the beans to form a chunky paste around another 4 oblongs . Roll
and continue to stir constantly over the last 4 in the black sesame.
low heat for 5 minutes to thicken the They are best the first day , though
paste. Cool before using. keep overnight , if stored covered,
at room temperature.
Make the zunda: In a small pot of
boiling water , cook the edamamein [Qj p.379
their pods for 5 minutes. Cool,
pop the edamameout of their pods,
KOBAN-YAKI
Preparation time: 30 minutes These old - fashioned flatbreads are In a small bowl , toss together the
Cooking time: 5 minutes from an era when sugar was scarce, raisins, walnuts, and melted butter.
Makes: 12 thick flat breads and are naturally sweetened only by Knead the mixture into the dough.
the raisins and walnuts. They are Stretch out to form into 12 oval flat
l lb 2 oz (500 g) potatoes, peeled best on the first day. breads about 4 inches (ro cm) long
• I egg , at room temperature by 3 inches ( 7. 5 cm) across and
3 1/, cups (1 2 oz lb/500 g) unbleached Set an oroshigane[metal-toothed ¼-inch (6 cm) thick.
cake flour or udon flour grater] or fine-toothed Microplane
6 tablespoons kinako [soy flour] grater in a medium bowl and grate .In each of two large heavy frying
1
• /+ teaspoon fine sea salt the potato into a viscous mass. Stir pans , heat 4 tablespoons oil over
· 6 tablespoons raisins in the egg, cake flour , kinako, and medium-low heat. Fry the flat
6 tablespoons chopped walnuts salt. Knead to form a stiff, pliable breads until golden brown on both
• 3 tablespoons (45 g) unsalted dough with the give of an earlobe. sides , l-2 minutes. Serve hot.
butter, melted
8 tablespoons canola (rapeseed) oil
378 KAN MI - SWEETS

MANJU
Preparation time: 30 minutes , plus Anko [sweet red bean paste] has lost Divide the cooled red bean paste
overnight soaking and 15 minut es favor inJapan - perhaps because it into 12 portions and form each
resting time is so often overly sweetened. Less into a ball. Separate the dough into
Cooking time : l h o ur IO minutes traditional but more appealing, the 12 portions and with a rolling pin,
Makes : 12 buns sugar in this azukibean paste is one- roll each portion into a 6-inch
quarter of what many recipes call (12 .5 cm) round. Pull and pinch
For the azuki bean filling: for . Serve with green tea . the edges to thin so that when
I cup (3¾ oz/ no g) dried azuki beans wrapping the dough around th e
4 tablespoon s organi c sugar Make the azukibean filling: Soak the bean paste it will not be overly
¼ teaspoon fine sea salt beans overnight. Drain and transfer thick . Set a ball of bean paste onto
to a small saucepan . Add fresh the center of each dough round ,
For th e manju dough : water to cover by I ½ inches (4 cm) cup the dough round in the flat of
• 3 1/ 2 cups (13¼ o z/ 375 g) unbleached and bring to a boil over high heat. your hand, and pinch up the dough
cake flour Adjust to a simmer and cook for to enclose the bean paste .
• ¼ teaspoon fine sea salt about 15 minutes. Pour in ½ cup
I tablespoon baking powder (4 fl oz/ 125 ml) cold water , bring Plac e the manju seam side down on
3 tablespoon s organic sugar back to a simmer , and continue the parchment squares. Stack the
cooking until the beans are steamer baskets on top of the pan
beginning to soften , about 15 of boiling water and steam over
minutes. Stir in the sugar and salt high heat for IO minutes. Switch
and continue simmering, stirring the baskets so th e bottom one is on
occasionally, until the beans are top and steam IO minutes more.
falling apart and most of the water The se are best the first day, but can
has evaporated , about 15 minutes. be sto red at room temperature for
Mash the beans to form a chunky I day .
paste and continue to stir constantly
over low heat for 5 minutes to
thicken the paste. Let cool.
Make the manju dough: In a

medium bowl , whisk togeth er
the flour, salt , baking powder ,
and sugar. Using a fork, slowly
incorporate¾ cup (175 ml) cold
water into the mixture to make a
pliable dough . Knead the dough
until it reaches the softness of your
earlobe and let rest for 15 minutes .
Cut twelve 2-inch (5 cm) squares

of parchment paper and arrange
6 each in 2 stacking bamboo
steamer baskets. Prepare a large pot
of boiling water for the steamer .
KAN MI - SWEETS
R~LO) :::::i:::::i7 J:i± SOY MILK AND COCOA GEL.EE
Preparation time: IO minutes, This soy milk dessert is only lightly until the agar has completely
plus l hour chilling time sweetened and has a refre shing dis so lved , 8-10 minutes. Whisk
Cooking time, 20 minutes texture, so is an excellent option to in the cocoa-soy milk mixture
Makes, 12 squares follow a Japanese meal. until uniformly colored.
4 cups (32 fl oz/I liter) best-quality or In a sma ll saucepan, whisk 3/• cup Pour into in an 8-inch (20 cm)
homemade soy milk (7 fl oz/200 mi) soy milk in to the foil-lined square pan with a
4 tablespoons Dutch process cocoa to create a slurry. Bring to a removable bottom. Refrigerate for
cocoa powder boil , whisking, over medium - high at least l hour.
6 tablespoons mild honey heat and immediately remove from
4 tabl espoons kanten [agar flakes] the heat. Repeat the boiling process Run the knife around the edges of
2 more times to cook the cocoa t he mold , then unmold and cut with
powder. Stir in the honey until well a sharp knife into 12 portions. Serve
incorporated. 1- 2 gelees per person on a small
plate. It is best to wipe the knife with
In a medium saucepan , add a clean towel between cuts.
the remaining 3'/• cups
(27 fl oz/800 ml) soy milk.
Sprinkle the agar flakes over the
soy milk and bring to a simmer
over m e dium heat. Adjust to a slow
simmer and cook, stirring,
PEANUT MANJU
Preparation time, 25 minutes, plus Manju [stuffed buns] are ubiquitous Cut 12 (2-inch/5 cm) squares of
15 minutes resting time inJapan , though it has become parchment paper and arrange half
Cooking time, 20 minutes harder and harder to find good in one basket of a stacking bamboo
Makes, 8 manju ones, so preparing them at home steamer and the other half in
make s sense. These little manju are another ba sket. Prepare a large pot
I cup (3 'h oz/ 150 g) peanuts an old-fashioned mildly sweet of boiling water for the steamer .
3 1/2 cups (13'/• oz/ 375 g) unbleached confection to accompany tea in the
cake flour afternoon. The peanuts add flavor Pinch off 12 equal parts of dough
¼ teaspoon fine sea salt and crunch to these chewy buns, and stre tch each one into a disk,
l tablespoon baking powder but eat them soon after steaming th en pinching the bottom closed,
6 tablespoons kurosato [black sugar] , since they tend to harden with time . repe at several times to create
well crushed 12 smooth spheres with pinched
Enclose the peanuts in a clean bottoms.
non-terrycloth tea towel and rub
forcefully to remove the skins. Set the steamer baskets on the
Chop coarsely. pot and cook over high heat for
20 minutes, but rotate the basket s
Measure the flour , salt, baking half way through cooking so the
powder, and kurosato int o a medium b otto m basket is on the top and the
bowl. Using a fork, mix in about top one is on the bottom. Serve
¾ cup (6 fl oz/r75 ml) water to h ot, if possible .
form a stiff dough . Knead the
dough until it attains the softness
of an earlobe, work in the peanuts,
and let rest for 15 minutes covered
with a non-terrycloth tea towel.
KANMI - SWEETS
PEANUT "TOFU"
Preparation time: 40 minutes Peanuts have been grown in In a small heavy saucepan, heat the
Cooking time, 15 minutes Japan since the Meiji period kurosatoand Z tablespoons water over
Serves, 6 (r868-r9rz). Farming families low heat to make kuromitsu[black
snack on them during morning and sugar syrup]. Eliminate the lumps as
l cup (51h oz/r50 g) raw peanuts afternoon tea breaks. This sweet is you stir by crushing against the side
• l cup (5 oz/r40 g) kudzu powder, served with black sugar syrup for of the pan with a flat wooden spoon
smashed in the suribachi (page 445) a snack or dessert. until the sugar crystals have melted,
· 4 tablespoons kurosato [black sugar] z-3 minutes. Increase the heat to
Soak the peanuts in warm water for medium and cook , stirring , until
Z0 minutes. Drain and rub with large bubbles form and the syrup is
absorbent paper towels to remove glossy, Z-3 minutes more. Cool to
the skins. Whirl the peanuts in a room temperature .
blender with I cup (8 fl oz / z50 ml)
water until smooth . Scrape down Once the peanut "tofu" has cooled ,
the sides of the blender and whirl remove from the water bath, grasp
for I minute more. the plastic wrap by the ends, and
pull the "tofu" out from the loaf
Line a large wire-mesh sieve with pan. Cut each loaf into 3 portions
cheesecloth, set it over a heavy and serve one per person drizzled
medium saucepan , and pour the with kuromitsu.Store leftovers in the
ground peanut water through the refrigerator.
cloth-lined sieve. Twist the cloth up
to make a bundle and squeeze out Note, This can be eaten as a savory
every speck of moisture that you are snack if napped with soy sauce
able to. Stir the kudzu powder into instead of the kuromitsu.
the peanut water, and heat over
high heat, stirring constantly and
vigorously, until bubbling actively
and the raw peanut smell has
dissipated, 7-10 minutes. Line two
(z x 4 - inch/5 x IO cm) loaf
pans with a piece of plastic wrap
(clingfilm) large enough to leave
a generous overhang on the sides,
and pour in the mixture. Set the
pans in a larger pan full of cold
water to cool the peanut "tofu."
KAN MI - SWEETS
GOHEI MOCHI
Preparation time: 30 minutes, plus In Takayama , a popular mountain Prepare a small bowl of water
30 minutes soaking time town destination in Gifu prefec- next to your work surface and wet
Cooking time: 15 minutes ture, the streets are redolent of the your palms and fingers . Divide
Makes: 5 sticks (3 balls each) aroma of charcoal-grilledgohei mochi. the dough into 3 equal portions.
If possible, try to go the extra mile Working with one portion at a
5 tablespoons gold sesame seeds and grill outside , rather than under time, form 5 small balls (dipping
• I tablespoon mirin the broiler (grill). This is a salty, your palms and fingers in the
3 tablespoons brown rice miso creamy snack that is best served hot water , when needed, to keep the
3 cups (15 oz/415 g) cookedjapanese with tea in the afternoon. rice from sticking to your hands),
Rice (page 291) for a total of 15. Thread 3 balls on
Soak 5 small bamboo skewers in each skewer.
water for 30 minutes. In a small ,
dry frying pan, toast the sesame Light the charcoal in an outdoor
seeds over medium heat until grill (barbecue) and let reduce to
fragrant, shaking the pan and ash-covered embers. (Or position
lifting off the heat if needed to a rack 4 inches/Io cm from the
avoid scorching, about 30 seconds. heat source and preheat the broiler
Slide into a suribachi[grinding bowl] [grill] .) Grill or broil for about
and grind until broken down to a 6 minutes, turning every 2 minutes,
paste. Mash in the mirin and misoto until evenly browned all over.
combine and set aside. Smooth the misopaste around the
balls and cook for another I½
Wipe off the surikogi[grinding minutes on each of three "sides . "
pestle] used for smashing the
sesame and wash. Dump the cooked
rice into a large bowl and pound
with the surikogiuntil the rice
adheres together into a sticky mass.
There will still be visible grains of
rice, however.
SWEET MISO-GLAZED
TOFU BARS
Preparation time: 40 minutes These little tofu bars make a healthy In a small saucepan, stir together
Cooking time: IO minutes and delicious afternoon snack. 'I• cup (60 ml) water, the mirin, sake,
Makes : 16 small tofu bars and miso and cook, stirring , over
Slice each tofu horizontally through low heat , until no longer shiny,
2 (ro½ oz/300 g each) momendofu or the middle to create two layers. 3-4 minutes.
Japanese-style soft block tofu Quarter those layers crosswise to
· 4 tablespoons mirin make 8 bars each, for a total of 16 In a large frying pan, heat
• 2 tablespoons sake small bars. Arrange the bars on I tablespoon of the oil over medium
6 tablespoons soybean miso a cutting board and prop a small heat. Add half of the tofu bars and
2 tablespoons canola (rapeseed) oil saucer underneath to angle the fry both sides until golden brown,
lchimi togarashi [powdered Japanese board into the kitchen sink (to I-2 minutes. Wipe out the pan,
red chile] catch drips). Lay another cutting add the remaining I tablespoon oil
4 small sprigs sansho board on top of the tofu (take care and fry the remaining 8 bars.
that it 's not too heavy to avoid
smashing the tofu) to press out Smooth the miso on the bars,
moisture for 20 minutes . sprinkle with ichimitogarashi,and
a few sansholeaves. Serve 2-3 per
person as is, or threaded on a
teppogushi[bamboo paddle skewer].
KAN MI - SWEETS
YO KAN
Preparation time, IO minutes, plus Serve the se slippery, red bean turns, until the mixture feel s
overnight soaking and I hour chilling sweets with green tea in the h eavier and ha s thickened a little .
and setti ng time afternoon . Place the pans in the refrigerator
Cooking time, 5 minutes and allow to chill for I hour .
Makes, 2 (2 x 4-inch/5 x IO cm) loaves Place the 2 (2 x 4-inch/5 x IO cm)
loaf pans in an ice bath that will fit Cut the loaves into small squares
· 2 tablespoons agar flakes in th e refrigerator. and gently lift out of the pan with
I½ cups (9 oz/250 g) sweetened cooked a small rubber scraper for serving.
azuki beans (see Note) Measur e I cup (8 fl oz/250 ml) Store, covered, in the refrigerator,
• I pinch fine sea salt water into a small, heavy saucepan , but eat within 2 or 3 days.
sprinkle in the agar, and bring to
a boil over medium heat, without Note, Follow the direction s for
stirring. Once boiling , stir cooking the azuki beans in Man ju
continuously for I minute. (page 385) . To get the quantity of
cooked beans called for here , yo u
Remove from the heat and whisk in will need ½ cup (2 oz/ 55 g) dried
the cooked beans and salt. Scrape beans. You will need to soak the
the mixture into the 2 small loaf bean s overnight before cooking.
pans and stir each pan in successive
OKINAWAN-STYLE
SESAME DONUTS
Preparati~n time, 25 minutes Okinawa's cultural heritage is not Pour 6 inches (15 cm) oil into a
Cooking time, IO minutes considered part of main stream heavy medium pot and heat over
Makes , 12 donuts Japan because it has its roots in medium-low heat until hot but
China and the United States (due not smoking. Working in batches
11/, cups (7 oz/200 g) all-purpose to the occupation). There are not of 6 (do not crowd the pot),
(plain) flour many Okinawan dishes in this drop rounded spoonfuls of the
I tablespoon baking powder book , but these donuts are iconic . batter, using 2 spoons , and fry
· ½ cu p (3 1/2 oz/roo g) sugar until the donuts are bobbing on
• I large pinch fine sea salt In a medium bowl , whisk together the surface and most of the tin y
I medium egg, at room temperature the flour , baking powder, sugar , bubbles have subsided, at least
6¾ tablespoons (3 1h fl oz/roo ml) milk and salt. Make a well in the flour 3 minutes. (Adjust the heat if they
· ¼ teaspoon vanilla extract mixture and crack the egg into are browning too quickly .) Drain
I tablespoon white sesame seeds the well. Stir the milk and vanilla on absorbent paper towels and
• I tablespoon black sesame seeds extract in slowly with a fork, while serve hot.
Neutral oil, such as canola (rapeseed), breaking up the egg, until the dry
p ean ut , or safflower, for deep-frying and wet ingredients are blended. [variation]
Warm the sesame seeds in a small Omit the sesame seeds and add
dry pan and crush slightly in a chopped walnuts or raisins to the
suribachiUapanese grinding bowl] batter.
or nut grinder. Stir the sesame
seeds into the batter-it will be
fairly sticky.
386 KAN MI - SWEETS

CARROT CAKE
Preparation time, 25 minutes This is a moist, not-too-sweet , In a bowl, with an electric mixer,
Cooking time, 20-25 minutes carrot cake that makes for a good beat the whites until they form stiff
Makes, 2 (2 x 4-inch/5 x IO cm) loaves snack in the afternoon. Look for but not dry peaks. Stir a quarter
the most flavorful carrots you can of the egg whites into the carrot
• Butter , for greasing the pan find . During and immediately batter to lighten , then carefully
'I• cup
plus I rounded tablespoon after World War II , Japanese home fold the rest of the whites into the
1 sweets often used naturally sweet batter , taking care not to deflate
(4 oz/r30 g) unbleached cake flour,
/2
plus more as needed vegetables , such as sweet potato the whites . Scrape the batter into
5 tablespoons organic granulated sugar or carrot, since sugar was scarce. the pans .
· 2 eggs, at room temperature , Although the original recipe did not
separated contain sugar, this version does. Bake until a wooden skewer
6 tablespoons canola (rapeseed) oil inserted in the center comes out
• 3/+cup plus 2 tablespoons Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C/ clean, 20-25 minutes . Let cool in
(51/, oz/r50 g) finely grated carrot Gas Mark 4). Line the bottoms the pans on a rack for 5 minutes ,
with parchment paper and butter then remove from the pans and
and flour 2 (2 x 4-inch / 5 x IO cm) cool directly on the rack. It is best
loaf pans . the first day, but is also good for up
to 2 days, wrapped well and stored
In a medium bowl , whisk together at room temperature .
the flour, and sugar. Whisk the egg
yolks into the oil until emulsified
and whisk the mixture slowly into
the flour and sugar to form a stiff
batter. Stir in the carrot.
AMAZAKE
Preparation time: 5 minutes Locate the best-quality rice koji an~ but still a little warm , stir in the
Cooking time, IO minutes rice that you are able to find, since rice koji and 31/, cups (27 fl oz/
Fermenting time, 2 days that is where most of the flavor 800 ml) hot tap water. Scrape into
Makes, 4 1/+ cups (34 fl oz/r liter) will come from. Use this naturally a yogurt maker container, cover,
sweet, creamy fermented rice drink and set the temperature to 150°F
3
/+ cup (5 1/+ oz/r50 g) uncooked as a sugar substitute in desserts (65°C) to ferment for 2 days . Stir
Japanese rice or dilute with water to serve as a once or twice a day. The mixture
2 1/2 cups (7 oz/200 g) rice koji warm or cold beverage . You can should be sweetly fragrant and
· Grated fresh ginger (optional) also freeze ama;a,keinto pops for not sour.
an easy afternoon pick-me-up.
A yogurt maker is needed to make Serve by cutting with cold or
this recipe. hot water at a ratio of about I, I
(water, ama;a,ke),depending on the
Wash the rice according to the consistency. Add a smidge of grated
directions for Japanese Rice ginger, if you like . Amazakecan be
(page 291). Drain and add to stored in the refrigerator for about
a small heavy pot with ¾ cup I week.
(6 fl oz/r8o ml) cold water . Cover ,
bring to a boil over high heat
(about 2 minutes), adjust to low
heat , and cook for 8 minutes.
Scrape into a medium bowl and
cool to lukewarm. Once cooled,
KAN MI - SWEETS
I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I
I I I
I
I I
I
I I
I
I I
shefu
CHEFS
• YOSHIHIRO IMAI
MONK
147 JOD OJISHIMOMINAMIDA-CHO
SAKYO-KU, KYOTO
JAPAN
Born in 1982 , Yoshihiro Imai is the chef / owner of Monk, a cozy restaurant
with only fourteen seats, located by Philosopher's Path in Kyoto. The
dishes , inspired by the traditional Kyoto kaiseki, Nordic , and California
cuisines , are all made with local ingredients hand-selected by Chef Imai
and cooked in a wood-fired oven.
SAKURA SCENTED
ROAST BEEF
Preparation time, 4 hours In a frying pan , heat the oil over pairs well with beef, and when the
Cooking time, 30 minutes high heat. Season the beef with salt, beef is roasted , the leaves char
Serves, 4 then add the beef to the pan and a little , adding a nice smoky flavor .)
sear for 5 seconds on all sides. Roast for 30 minutes , until the
• I tablespoon olive oil meat is medium-rare.
• I lb 2 oz (500 g) grass - fed beef (sirloin Transfer the beef to a roasting pan
or top round [topside]) and cover the beef with the sakura Cover with aluminum foil and let sit
salt
• I teaspoon leaves . (The sakura leaves have a for 20 minutes before carving into
• IO young, green sakura [cherry tree] leaves unique and natural sweet flavor that slices a scant 1/ • inch (5 mm) thick .
~-t:>~--r-i!Lt~~t SMOKED MACKEREL WITH

0) -lf 7 9"
7;:*_N COLORFUL RADISH SALAD
Preparation time, 14 hours Sprinkle the mackerel lightly with Place the daikonin a bowl of ice
Cooking time, I hour 2 tablespoons salt. Transfer the fish water with the wasabi- na leaves
Serves , 4 to the refrigerator and set aside and let sit for IO minutes. Drain
for 12 hours. Rinse the mackerel and season the vegetables with the
• I whole mackerel, filleted and pat dry. Place the fish in a y uzujuice , olive oil , and 2 pinches
2 tablespoons plus 2 pinches salt nonreactive container and let soak of salt.
Generous 'I• cup (7 fl oz/ 200 ml) rice in the rice vinegar for IO minutes.
vinegar (Traditional marinated mackerel is Slice the mackerel and serve
• Fallen leaves (r bowl) called shimesaba.) with the daikon salad on the side
IO ½ oz (300 g) daikon and various for a refreshing and crunchy
radishes (many different kinds would be Next , lightly smoke the mackerel counterpoint to the rich mackerel.
beautiful), very thinly sliced over the leaves. (Since autumn is
• I½ oz (40 g) wasabi - na [mustard] leaves the best season for mackerel, I love
• Juice of 2 yuzu or I Meyer lemon to smoke it over fallen autumn
• r ½ tablespoons olive oil leaves.)
392 1/ I. 7 CHEFS
• KAZUNARI NAKAMURA
LA BONNE TABLE
COREDO MUROMACHI-2 1F
2-3-1 NIHONBASHI-
MUROMACHI
CHUO-KU, TOKYO
JAPAN
Chef Nakamura was born in 1980 and raised in Chiba Prefecture. After
graduating from the Musashino Cooking College, Nakamura worked
at Chez Matsuo , Ekoda , and La Lionne in Tokyo before serving for two
years as the opening sous chef at L'Effervescence. At La Bonne Table, chef
Nakamura creates dishes using hyper-locally sourced ingredients, which
give a nod to French cuisine but are rooted inj a pan.
7''-7-'''/ / 7- Jvc BOUDIN NOIR AND NARAZUKE

~ ~ 5l it 0) ~ **it§i:
3 dj- STUFFED ROASTED SHIITAKE
Preparation time, IO minutes Position a rack in the center of In a small bowl, mash the walnuts
Cooking time, IO minutes the oven and preheat to 425°F into the boudin noir. Pack the
Serves, 6 as an appetizer (220°C / Gas Mark 7). Lightly oil mixture into the shiitakecaps to
a baking sheet. create a rounded mound. Roast
· Canola (rapeseed) oil , for greasing again for 3 minutes. Sprinkle each
• I2 medium shiitake Pare off the tip end of the shiitake shiitakewith the narCJ.?.uke
and a pinch
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped walnuts stems and finely slice the stems of yarrow leaf. Serve hot as an
• 2 oz (55 g) tablespoons boudin noir from the tip end down to the cap appetizer .
(blood sausage), without casings with a sharp knife into fine strands
• I teaspoon chopped narazuke (see Note) that still remain attached to the cap. Note, NarCJ.?.uke
is white melon
· 2 sprigs yarrow Ieaves , leaves removed pickled in sakelees.
Arrange the shiitake, cut side down,
on the baking sheet and roast for
3 minutes.
393 CHEFS
EGGPLANT SOUP, SNAPPER,
SEA GRAPES, AND MYOGA
- r'-,-1,.1' i±-
:::..3 ·/ /J, 1x.R
Preparation time: ~O minutes Place the clams in a small saucepan Burn the fish skin with a blowtorch
Cooking time, 10 minutes and add a generous 4 cups to brown and crisp the skin ,
Serves, 6 (32 fl oz/r liter) cold water and the taking care that the fish flesh itself
sake. Cover and bring to a lively remains raw. Cut into I¼--inch
7 oz (200 g) small clams, scrubbed and simmer over medium high heat, (3 cm) cubes.
rinsed in several changes of cold water Cook until the clams have opened,
· 2 tablespoons sake 3-5 minutes . Scoop out the Divide the soup among 6 wide
· 7 oz (200 g) small Japanese eggplants clams with a wire - mesh strainer. Western-style soup bowls and
(aubergines) , tops cut off Strain the broth through paper arrange 3 eggplant slices in the
• Itablespoon cold - pressed sesame oil towels or a coffee filter to remove center of each bowl. The soup
• ro ½ oz (300 g) kinmedai [splendid sand particles. Use the clams for will be almost like a film on the
alfonsino] or snapper fillet , unscaled another dish. bottom of the bowl, rather than a
12 strands (1 ¼ inches / 3 cm long) deep bowl of soup . Arrange the sea
sea grapes Peel the eggplants (aubergines) , grapes and edamamein each bowl ,
18 cooked shelled edamame cut them lengthwise into 1/+-inch top the eggplant with 3 pieces
2 small myoga , quartered and julienned ( 6 mm) slices and in half crosswise. of fish, and strew with the "!)'Oga.
Place them in a small saucepan with Serve immediately.
the clam broth just to cover and
the sesame oil. Bring to a simmer
over medium heat and cook until
the eggplant has become meltingly
soft, about 5 minutes or more. Set
aside 18 small pieces of eggplant
and pulse the rest in a blender or
food processor to blend into a
creamy soup. Chill the soup and
the eggplant pieces.
394 1/.:,: 7 CHEFS

FIGS, CREPES, CHESTNUT ICE
CREAM, TANGERINE CARAMEL
Preparation time: 5 minutes Sprinkle the cut surface of the fig ½ tablespoon of the tangerine
Cooking time, 5 minutes halves with I tea spoon sugar each caramel sauce over the crepe on
Serves, 6 and caramelize with a blowtorch. each plate. Give I-2 sprays ofvin
Place each fig on a dessert plate. jaune over the plate and serve.
3 large fresh figs , halved lengthwise
• 6 teaspoons sugar Fold each crepe in quarters and
· 6 Crepes (page 396) place opposite the fig half on each
r½ cups (12 fl oz/ 350 ml) Chestnut plate. Place 2 quenelle of chestnut
Ice Cream (below) ice cream on each fig . Strew the
3 cooked chestnuts, mashed into broken up chestnut over the ice
small chunks cream and fig halves. Drizzle
3 tablespoons Green Tangerine
Caramel Sauce (page 396)
I tablespoon vin jaune , put in a small
spray bottle
CHESTNUT ICE CREAM
Preparation time: 15 minutes , plus In a small saucepan , heat the milk , Mash the chestnuts coarsely
freezing time cream, and sugar over medium in a mortar or pulse in a food
Cooking time: IO minutes heat, stirring until the sugar processor . The mixture should still
Makes: I quart (r liter) dissolves and the mixture is hot but have some small chunks. Stir the
not boiling. Place the egg yolks in thickened milk and egg mixture
Generous 2 cups (17 fl / oz/ 500 ml) a small bowl and whisk in a ladle into the chestnuts and chill. Freeze
whole milk of hot milk to temper the yolks. in an ice cream machine according
Scant½ cup (3¼ fl oz / roo ml) heavy Scrape the mixture back into the to the manufacturer 's directions.
(whipping) cream pan with the milk and cream and
½ cup (roo g) granulated sugar continue cooking over medium
· 4 egg yolks , at room temperature heat , stirring , until the mixture has
7 oz (200 g) cooked peeled chestnuts thickened and coats the back of a
wooden spoon.
395 1/ .I 7 CHEFS
CREPES
Preparation time: 15 minutes, plus In a small saucepan, melt the butter. Heat an 8-inch crepe pan over
I hour resting time In another small saucepan , warm medium high heat. Dip a folded
Cooking time, 35 minutes the milk to around 104°F (40°C). paper towel into I tablespoon
Makes, 12 (8-inch / 20 cm) crepes melted butter and rub around the
In a medium bowl , whisk the eggs surface of the pan. Pour a small
• 4' /• oz (120 g) salted butter , plus to emulsify and whisk in the sugar ladleful of batter into the center
I tablespoon melted butter for cooking until well incorporated. Slowly of the pan, immediately pick up
• I 1h cups (IO ½ fl oz/ 315 mi) whisk in the flour , making sure not the pan , and rotate to spread the
whole milk to form a ball. Slowly whisk in the batter evenly across the bottom of
· 4 eggs , at room temperature milk to form a smooth batter , then the pan. Cook for about 2 minutes ,
• 2 tablespoon s sugar stir in the butter. Let the batter rest then flip and cook I minute more.
2 cups (10.5 oz / 300 g) unbleached for I hour before using. Turn out onto a clean plate and
pastry flour repeat with the remaining batter ,
stacking the crepes as you go.
GREEN TANGERINE
CARAMEL SAUCE
Preparation time: IO minutes In a small , heavy saucepan, melt the completely, developed a deep
Cooking time, IO minutes sugar over medium heat without caramel color , and you can smell
Makes, I½ cups (12 fl oz/ 350 mi) stirring , and bring to a lively the caramelization (but it's not
simmer. Swirl up the sides to catch burning) , remove from the heat
• I cup (7 oz/ 200 g) sugar any crystals adhering to the pan and add the green tangerine juice.
Scant ½ cup (3 ¼ oz/loo mi) green and lift the pan off the heat if the The mixture will bubble furiously .
tangerine juice mixture browns too quickly before Stir in the butter to a smooth sauce
3 1/, tablespoons (1¾ oz/ 50 g) the sugar has dissolved completely. and use immediately.
unsalted butter Once the sugar has melted
1/ .I 7 CHEFS
• KANJI NAKATANI
SOBA RO & SOBA RA

1054-1 SHIMOAZAMI
HONJO-SHI, SAITAMA-KEN
JAPAN
After graduating from university and joining the workforce, at twenty-nine

years old, Kanji Nakatani spent five years training to learn the art of soba.
With a strong passion to create safe and comfortable food, he opened his
first restaurant, Soba Ro in 1994, then Soba Ra, fourteen years later. Chef
Nakatani has staged three soba dinners at Chez Panisse.
atB5t DASHI
Preparation time: 5 minutes In a saucepan, drop the konbu into allow the water to come to a boil.
Cooking time, IO minutes 4 1/• cups (34 fl oz/r liter) cold Add the katsuobushiand simmer
Makes, 3 1/• cups (26 fl oz) 750 ml water and bring almost to a boil for 9 minutes. Strain through
over medium heat. Right before cheesecloth or paper towels.
• 'I•oz (20
g) konbu boiling, remove the konbu and
r¾ oz (50 g) freshly shaved
katsuobushi or hanakatsuo
7J';z L, KAESHI
Preparation time, 5 minutes, plus I week In a heavy medium saucepan, stir Use kaeshiin combination with
resting time together the soy sauce, mirin , and clear dashi to make different
Cooking time, 5 minutes sugar. Bring almost to a boil over concentrations of flavored dashi,
Makes, 4 1/• cups (34 fl oz/r liter) medium heat and remove the pan See Amadashi (below) and Karai
immediately to a cool surface. Allow Dashi (page 398).
4 1/• cups (34 fl oz/r liter) soy sauce to sit at room temperature for I
• 3 1/2 tablespoons mirin week to develop depth. It keeps
· 2½ cups (500 g) sugar refrigerated for up to 6 months.
AMADASHI
Preparation time: 5 minutes Stir the kaeshiand dashitogether in

Makes, as much as you want a small bowl.
• I part Kaeshi (see above)

• II parts Dashi (see above)
397 1/ I 7 CHEFS
KARA! DASH!
Preparation time, 5 minutes Stir the kaeshi and dashi together in

Makes, as much as you want a small bowl.
• l part Kaeshi (page 397)

· 3.3 parts Dashi (page 397)
SOY MILK GRATIN
Preparation time : 5 minutes Preheat the oven to 395°F (200°C / Once all of the soy milk has been
Cooking time, 25 minutes Gas Mark 5) . incorporated and the sauce is
Serves, 3 smooth, stir in the salt and karai
Cut the mushrooms into dashiand continue stirring until
· 4 1/+ oz (120 g) seasonal mushrooms or manageable lengths or the the consistency is creamy and no
3 1/2 oz (100 g) seasonal vegetables vegetables into bite-size pieces. longer loose, but has not become
6 tablespoons cold-pressed sesame oil too thick .
• 2 ½ tablespoons unbleached In a small frying pan , heat the
all-purpose (plain) flour sesame oil over medium heat. Strew the mushrooms or vegetables
Generous 2 cups (17 fl oz / 500 ml) Add the flour and cook , stirring in a 6-inch (15 cm) gratin dish ,
soy m ilk constantly, until paste - like , about scrape the soy milk sauce over
l pinch of fine sea salt l minute . Reduce the heat to low them, and bake until browned and
3 1/ 2 tablespoons Karai Dashi , and gradually add the soy milk while bubbling , about 15 minutes.
(above; see Note) slowly stirring so the mixture does
not form a ball. Note, To get 3 1/2 tablespoons karai
dashi, combine 2 ½ teaspoons kaeshi
with 8 teaspoons dashi.
DASH! MAKI TAMAGO
Preparation time: 5 minutes Break 3 eggs into a small bowl the entire surface of the pan. While
Cooking time, 5 minutes and the remaining 3 eggs into still soft , starting at the far end of the
Serves, 3 another small bowl and whisk until pan, roll the egg mixture towards you
emulsified but not frothy . to form a log . Add the remaining
6 eggs , at room temperature l tablespoons oil. Tip the pan
• 3 tablespoons sugar Measure 1½ tablespoons sugar into again to distribute the oil, lifting
¾ cup (6 fl oz/ 180 ml) Amadashi each of 2 small bowls. Slowly stir up the rolled egg to get a little oil
(page 397; see Note) 6 tablespoons amadashi into each underneath it. Add the contents of
2 tablespoons cold-pressed sesame oil bowl until the sugar crystals have the second bowl and allow the eggs to
completely dissolved. Whisk one evenly cover the surface of the pan ,
bowl of the sweetened amadashi into including underneath the first egg
each bowl of eggs, taking care not roll. While still soft, roll the formed
to create foam . egg log away from you , gathering
up the new half - cooked egg layer in
In a small rectangular Japanese the pan as you go. Turn out onto
omelet pan , heat l tablespoon of a board, cut crosswise into 6 pieces,
the sesame oil over medium-low and serve .
heat , tipping the pan for even
coverage. Pour the contents of one Note, To get¾ cup (6 fl oz/ 180 ml)
of the bowls into the pan and roll amadashi,combine l tablespoon
it around so the egg has covered kaeshiwith ½ cup plus 3 tablespoons
(5 ½ fl oz/150 ml) dashi.
CHEFS
PERSIMMON AND DAIKON
WITH CHESTNUT MISO
Preparation time, 20 minutes In a small saucepan, mash the Place the persimmon and daikonin
Cooking time, 5 minutes chestnuts, miso, and sugar together a medium bowl and toss with the
Serves, 3 over low heat. Once the sugar salt. Squeeze gently by handfuls and
crystals have melted and the mixture fold into the cooled chestnut miso.
IO large chestnuts, boiled and peeled is emulsified, gradually add in Serve on a ,ensai plate.
• 3 tablespoons white miso the amadashiand continue stirring
• 4 tablespoons sugar over low heat until the mixture has Note, To get 3
/• cup (6 fl oz/r8o ml)
3
/• cu p (6 fl oz/r8o ml) Amadashi reduced to a smooth, silky paste- amadashi,combine I tablespoon kaeshi
(page 397; see Note) like sauce, about 5 minutes. Scrape with ½ cup plus 3 tablespoons
Imedium non-astringent hard into a medium bowl and cool to (5 1/2 fl oz/150 ml) dashi.
persimmon (fuyu), julienned room temperature.
I 1/•-inch (3 cm) slice medium daikon,
julienned
I pinch of fine sea salt
SIMMERED SCALLOPS AND FIGS
Preparation time, 15 minutes Place the scallops in a small bowl, until the juices have reduced and
Cooking time, IO minutes massage with the salt, and let sit for the fig sauce is glossy, 4-5 minutes.
Serves, 3 IO minutes. Return the scallops to the pan,
along with any juices that have
• 3 scallops In a small frying pan, heat the accumulated on the plate, and
pinch of fine sea salt
I sesame oil over high heat. Add the simmer, stirring over medium
½ tablespoon cold-pressed sesame oil scallops and sear for a few seconds heat, for I minute.
• 5 fresh figs, peeled and diced on both sides, until golden brown.
• I tablespoon mirin Remove the scallops to a small plate. [variation)
• 6 tablespoons Dashi (page 397) Use sasami[chicken tenders) instead
Reduce the heat to medium-high, of scallops.
add the diced figs, mirin, and dashi
and cook, smashing and stirring,
PINE NUTS WITH SMASHED UME
Preparation time: IO minutes Squeeze the pits out of the umeboshi Note, To get 6 tablespoons karai
Serves, 3 and discard. Chop the katsuobushi dashi, combine I½ tablespoons kaeshi
into the umeboshion a cutting with 4 1/2 tablespoons dashi.
IO umeboshi [salted sour plum) (chopping) board with a razor-
'I•oz (20 g) freshly shaved katsuobushi sharp knife, slowly adding in the (variation)
or hanakatsuo karaidashiuntil the mixture is well Instead of tearing the nori and
6 tablespoons Karai Dashi emulsified. Scrape into a donburi folding into the mixture , you could
(page 398; see Note) (deep soup bowl) and stir in the smooth the umeboshiand pine nut
3
/• cup (JOO g) pine nuts pine nuts. Tear the nori into small mixture onto the nori, roll it up, cut
• 2 sheets nori pieces, fold into the umeboshiand in half crosswise and eat as is.
pine nut mixture, and serve.
399 1/.:,: 7 CHEFS

• SHINOBU NAMAE
L' EFFERVESCENCE
2-25-4 NISHI-AZABU
MINATO-KU, TOKYO
JAPAN
Seven years after graduating from Keio University with a degree in Political
Science, Shinobu Namae became the sous chef at Michel Bras Toyajapon
in Hokkaido. In 2008, he spent a year as sous chef and in pastry at
The Fat Duck in London, after which he returned to Tokyo to open
L'Effervescence as executive chef and director. L'Effervescence earned
its first Michelin star in 20II and its second in 2015. L'Effervescence
has consistently ranked high on Asia's 50 Best Restaurant list and in 2017
was ranked number 12. Namae's food is poetic, soulful, and delicious.
BONITO SASHIMI WITH

BUTTERBUR MISO AND SHISO
Preparation time, 30 minutes Lay a sheet of konbu on a work In a medium bowl , smash together
Cooking time, IO minutes surface and arrange the bonito the miso and sugar. Slowly mash
Serves, 4 on top. Press the other sheet of in the vinegar and oil to form a
konbu over the fish and leave for smooth paste. Fold in the fuki no
2 pieces (12-inch/30 cm) konbu 15 minutes to increase the umami to and mix gently with a rubber
II oz (320 g) bonito [skipjack tuna], and eliminate any fish odors. This spatula to distribute the fuki no to
cut into sixteen 3/+ oz (20 g) slices technique is called kobujime. evenly into the miso mixture.
• I teaspoon fine sea salt
5 fuki no to [butterbur buds, page 430] In a medium saucepan, combine Spread I tablespoon of the faki no to
3 tablespoons brown rice miso generous 2 cups (17 fl oz/500 ml) misoon top of 8 of the bonito slices.
• 4 tablespoons raw sugar water and the salt to make a 1% Lay 2 medium or 3 small shisoleaves
• I tablespoon rice vinegar salt solution. Bring to a simmer on top and finish the "sa ndwich "
I tablespoon plus I teaspoon over medium heat and drop in with a second slice of bonito. Strew
cold-pressed sesame oil the fuki no to. Blanch for about with 3 hojisoand serve immediately .
r6 medium or 24 small green IO minutes , until they lose most
shiso leaves of their sharp bitterness. Drain in
2 sprigs hoj iso [shiso buds]. buds a fine - mesh sieve and blot dry in
removed and stems discarded a clean tea towel.
400 CHEFS
LILY BULB AND SHIRAKO
TEMPURA WITH MATCHA SALT
Preparation time: 20 minutes , plus In a medium saucepan , combine Pour 5 inches (ro cm) oil into
6 hours chilling time generous 2 cups (17 fl oz/500 ml) a heavy medium pot and heat over
Cooking time, 15 minutes water and 2 teaspoons of the sea salt medium-high heat until hot but
Serves, 4 to make a 2% salt solution. Bring to not smoking.
a brisk simmer over medium-high
5 teaspoons fine sea salt heat. Drop in the lily bulbs, reduce In a small bowl , whisk generous
2 lily bulbs, root ends cross cut the heat to medium-low , and 2 cups (17 fl oz/500 ml) cold water
IO½ oz (300 g) shirako [cod milt] simmer gently-otherwise they will and the egg lightly into the flour to
Neutral oil (such as canola or safflower, fall apart. Cook until the root end form a smooth, but not overmixed,
for deep-frying is soft when pierced with a metal tempurabatter.
I egg, at room temperature skewer , several minutes. Remove
'I, cup (13/+oz/ 50 g) all-purpose from the water and cool on a rack Use a soft natural fiber brush to
(plain) flour , plus more for dredging set over a pan to catch drips. dust the shirakowith flour .
• I teaspoon matcha salt (see Note)
To clean the shirako, plunge them in Dip the lily bulbs and shirakointo
generous 2 cups (17 fl oz/500 ml) the tempurabatter, shake off excess
cold water and 2 teaspoons of the batter , and fry the lily buds for
sea salt to make a 2 % salt solution. about I minute and the shirakofor
Cover and refrigerate for at least about 2 minutes, until golden
6 hours to leach out any blood. brown. Drain on paper towels for
Drain. a couple of seconds , then place
attractively on a plate. Sprinkle
Set up a bowl of ice and water in the with the matchasalt and serve
sink. In a medium saucepan, bring immediately.
a generous 2 cups (17 fl oz/ 500 ml)
water and the remaining I teaspoon Note, To make matchasalt, combine
sea salt (1% salt solution) to a I 2 parts fine sea salt to I part matcha
simmer over medium heat and add powder.
the shirako. Cook at a gentle simmer
until the outside skin has a stiff
tension but they are not cooked
through (you will be frying them
later) , about I minute. Drain and
cool in the ice bath. Drain well and
pat dry in a tea towel.
401 1/ I 7 CHEFS
DAIKON SHIOKOJI "STEAK"
WITH GINGERED NORI SAUCE
Preparation time: l hour to l hour 30 Bevel the edges of the daikonslices . 150°F (65°C) over medium-
minutes, plus 12 hours marinating time In a large saucepan , combine low heat. Remove from the heat
Cooking time: 25 minutes generous 6 cups (50 fl oz/r.5 liters) and let stand for 30 minutes
Serves: 4 as an appetizer water and l tablespoon of the salt to I hour. Take out the konbu
to make a 1% salt solution. Add the and discard or use for another
4 (2-inch / 5 cm) pieces daikon , rice and bring to a brisk simmer purpose. Set the saucepan over
(14 oz/ 400 g) over medium-high heat. Drop in medium-high heat and bring to
l tablespoon fine sea salt, ½ teaspoon the daikon and cook until soft when a boil. Remove from the heat and
for seasoning the dashi pierced with a bamboo skewer, add the katsuobushi.Once it floats
· 4 tablespoons uncooked Japanese rice 10-15 minutes. Drain and allow the down to the bottom of the pan,
2 tablespoons cold - pressed sesame oil daikonto cool to room temperature. strain through cheesecloth into a
1 medium bowl, but do not press on
• /2 teaspoon soy sauce
• Scant 2 teaspoons mirin Make the shiokoji: In a small bowl, the cloth or squeeze the katsuobushi
· Scant 3 tablespoons sake mix together½ cup (120ml) water, by hand. Season with the soy sauce ,
Generous 2 teaspoons grated the rice koji, amazake, and soy sauce. the remaining ½ teaspoon salt,
fresh ginger Slip in the daikon slices, cover , and mirin, sake, and ginger. Stir scant
l tablespoon plus l teaspoon well- marinate at room temperature for 2 teaspoons cold water into the
crushed kudzu powder I2 hours. kudzu powder and add to the dashi.
16 sheets crumbled nori Simmer over low heat for 20-30
Remove the daikonfrom the seconds until the kudzu becomes
For the shiokoji: marinade and wipe any lingering transparent. Add the nori and stir
4 tablespoons plus 4 teaspoons rice koji shiokojioff. Discard the marinade. over low heat for another I-2
· l cup (8 fl oz/250 ml) amazake In a small frying pan, heat the minutes, until the nori melts and the
• l tablespoon plus l teaspoon soy sauce oil over high heat and sear the mixture becomes a well-emulsified,
daikonuntil warmed to the center , black sauce.
For the katsuobushi dashi: I-2 minutes. Adjust the heat if
· 6-inches (15 cm) konbu browning too quickly as shiokoji- Set the daikonin the center of a salad
3 small handfuls (15 g) freshly shaved treated foods color easily. plate and drizzle the sauce on top.
katsuobushi Serve as an appetizer.
Make the katsuobushi dashi: In
a small saucepan, gently bring
generous 2 cups (17 fl oz/
500 ml) water with the konbu to
1/ .I 7 CHEFS
MATSUTAKE, BURDOCK, AND
KYOTO CARROT KINPIRA
Preparation time: IO minutes In a small frying pan , heat the Add the matsutake,remove from the
Cooking time, 5 minutes oil over medium heat. Once well heat , and toss for about 30 seconds
Serves, 4 as an appetizer warmed , but not burning hot , add to wilt. Slide into a small bowl,
the burdock and carrot and stir - fry sprinkle with the sesame seeds ,
2 tablespoons gold sesame oil for l minute to distribute the oil. and top with the JIL{U zest. Serve
8 oz (240 g) burdock root , finely Stir in the soy sauce and mirin and immediately.
julienned stir-fry until soft , 3-4 minutes.
4 oz (120 g) Kyoto or other red-orange
carrot , finely julienned
Scant 2 teaspoons soy sauce
• Scant 2 teaspoons mirin
6 o z (160 g) matsutake mushrooms,
shredded by hand into
julienne-like strips
Scant 2 teaspoon s white sesame seeds,
warmed in a small , dry frying pan
Finely grated zest of ½ yuzu or 'I•
Meyer lemon
GRILLED SHIME SABA WITH

SWEET PERSIMMON MISO SAUCE
Preparation time, 45 minutes , plus In a small bowl , mix together Allow to marinate for 15-20
2 hours salting time the salt and sugar . Measure out minutes at room temperature . This
Serves, 4 a heaping ½ teaspoon (3 g) of preparation is called shimesaba.
the salt / sugar mixture, 2% of the
1½ tablespoons fine sea salt weight of the fish , and reserve the Sear all surfaces quickly on a hot
• ½ teaspoon sugar rest for the next time you cure grill or with a culinary blowtorch .
5 1/ 2 oz (160 g) mackerel fillet mackerel. Cool by plunging in ice water to
2 teaspoons shiro miso [white mi so] stop the cooking. Once cool, about
3/+cup (6 fl oz/r8o ml) rice vinegar Rin se the mackerel and pat dry . I minute , remove from the ice
• 2 tablespoons mirin Place the fish in a small rectangular water and pat dry. Slice off the belly
I egg yolk , at room tempera ture pan and sprinkle both sides with bones and pin bones with a razor
2 teaspoons cold - pressed sesame oil the measured out salt and sugar sharp thin knife and peel off the
l ripe Fu yu persimmon, peeled , pitted , mixture. Refrigerate, uncovered , skin slipping your fingers under the
and sliced into thin wedges for 2 hours. skin and peeling it back. Cut into
¼-inch (6 mm) slices.
In a small bowl, stir together the
1
miso, a generous /2 teaspoon of the Divide the grilled shimesaba slices
rice vinegar , I teaspoon of the mirin, among 4 salad plates , placing them
the egg yolk, and oil. in an attractive , overlapping stack
left of center . Place the persimmon
Rins e the mackerel under cold pieces in a similar fashion to the
running water and pat dry. Tn a right of center , next to the shime
small rectangular container, mix saba. Drizzle with the miso sauce and
togeth e r the remaining rice vin egar serve immediately as an appetizer.
and mirin and slip in the mackerel
so that it is completely submerged.
1/i7 CHEFS
• SHINICHIRO SAKAMOTO
YUYADO SAKAMOTO
15-47 UEDOMACHI JISHA
suzu SHI, ISHIKAWA-KEN
JAPAN
Shinichiro Sakamoto and his wife operate an austerely elegant inn near the
top of the Noto Peninsula. Sakamoto learned his craft from experiencing
the food offered at the best and most interesting restaurants across Japan
and in the countries in which he traveled abroad. Local fish, vegetables,
condiments, herbs, and the full harvest of the sea are his inspiration. Chef
Sakamoto' s food is deceptively spare and deeply considered. These recipes
are from the staff meal at Sakamoto, known as makanaiin Japan.
NANBAN-ZUKE MAME AJI
Preparation time, 20 minutes, plus Pour 4 inches (ro cm) oil into Place half the fish side by side
24 hours marinatingtime a heavy medium pot and set over across the bottom of the container
Cooking time, IO minutes medium-low heat. and strew with half of the onions,
Serves, 6 piman, and carrot. Sprinkle with
Rinse and pat dry the fish and half of the ginger juice and ichimi
• Neutral oil, such as canola (rapeseed), toss with the flour to coat. Shake togarashi.Repeat with the rest of the
peanut, or safflower, for frying off excess flour. Increase the heat fish, vegetables , ginger juice , and
• ½ lb (225 g) mame aji or other under the oil to medium-high until ichimitogarashi.
small whole fish, such as anchovy, smelt, the oil is hot but not smoking (test
or whitebait by dropping a pinch of flour into In a bowl, whisk together the
% cup (roo g) unbleached pastry flour , the oil-it should float immediately vinegar , mirin1 usukuchish'!)'u,and
for dredging back up to the top and not sink to dashi. Pour over the layered fish and
I medium onion, halved and thinly the bottom). Working in batches, vegetables. Cover and refrigerate
sliced crosswise fry the fish until golden brown, for 24 hours, to absorb the
I piman or small green pepper, finely 3-4 minutes per batch, depending marinade. Since the vegetables
julienned on size. Be careful not to fry too leach out liquid and dilute the
½ small carrot, finely julienned hot or the stomachs will burst. flavor, taste before serving and add
• 2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger, Drain on paper towels. more rice vinegar or usukuchish'!)'u,
squeezed to make juice if needed.
'I•teaspoon ichimi togarashi [powdered In a rectangular lidded container
Japanese red chili] just big enough to hold the fish
4 tablespoons rice vinegar and vegetables, make two layers,
tablespoon mirin
• I
I tablespoon usukuchi shoyu
4 tablespoons Katsuobushi Dashi
(page 156)
1/:,: 7 CHEFS
BOZUSHI
Preparation time, I hour , plus I-2 hours Measure the rice into a heavy Bring the rice to a boil over high
weighing time medium cast-iron pot. Fill with heat. This will take about
Cooking time, 15 minutes water to the top of the pot to rinse , 4 minutes. Reduce the heat to low
Serves, 4-6 then drain off the water. Scrub with and cook for about IO minutes.
fingers, then fill with water and Remove from the heat and let rest
2 1/ • cup s (r lb / 450 g) uncooked drain several times until the water for 5 minutes before turning out
Japanese rice runs clear . Drain and add 2¼ cups onto a handai [wide wooden tub] or
4 - inch (ro cm) square piece konbu (r8 fl oz/ 540 ml) water. Drop in large wooden board. Sprinkl the
7
2 1/ . lb (r kg) whole sashimi - grade horse the konbu and soak for 30 minutes , surface evenly with the sweetened
mackerel or sardines (about 4) covered. vinegar. Cut and fold the rice with
3 ½ teaspoons fine sea salt , plus more a rice paddle or a wooden spoon ,
as needed Meanwhile , remove the head and while fanning with an uchiwa [flat
½ tablespoon grated fresh ginger guts of the fish with a sharp knife fan] or stiff piece of cardboard
8 ½ tablespoons rice vinegar and separate into boneless fillets. until the rice grains have absorbed
· r½ tablespoons sugar Pull off the skins. Rinse in cold all of the vinegar and cooled until
2 tablespoons finely slivered water, place in a shallow pan , and just barely warm. Cover with a
young ginger sprinkle the fillets with salt on both damp cloth until ready to use.
sides. Let sit for IO minutes to
cure. Rinse the fillets and the pan Lay out 4 large pieces of plastic
in cold water, and pat both dry. wrap (clingfilm) on a work surface
Return the fillets to the pan, shiny and divide the sushi rice equally
side down , and spread the grated among the pieces. Fashion the
ginger across the fish . sushi rice into logs 6 inches
(15 cm) long and 2 inches (5 cm)
In a small bowl, stir together in diameter. Distribute the slivered
4 tablespoons vinegar into ginger evenly across the tops of
2 teaspoons salt. Drizzle the vinegar the logs. Lay two drained fillets
mixture over the fish and allow to diagonally over each log of sushi
marinate for IO minutes. Drain, rice, covering the top and going
discard the marinade , and set the down the sides. Wrap tightly in the
fillets aside on a small plate. plastic and place a cutting board
on top to weight for I to 2 hours at
In a small bowl, mix together room temperature. If the weather
the remaining 4½ tablespoons is hot, store in the refrigerator.
vinegar, sugar , and I½ teaspoons Dip a sharp knife in rice vinegar,
salt. Stir occasionally to help the cut crosswise (through the plastic
salt dissolve . wrap) into sixths, and serve.
SOY-PICKLED DAI KON
Preparation time : 15 minutes , plus Slice the daikonhalves into ¼ - inch In a small bowl , whisk the soy
2-3 hours pickling time (6 mm) half-rounds. Place the sauce, mirin, sake, and chiles into
Serves, 6 daikon in a medium bowl , sprinkle the mustard powder. Add the soy
with the salt , and massage in gently. sauce mixture to the bowl of daikon
ro½ oz (300 g) daikon , scrubbed and Let sit for IO minutes. Scoop the and place an otoshibuta[ drop lid]
halved lengthwise daikon out of the bowl , leaving any and weight on top. Leave at room
1
/•teaspoon flaky sea salt undissolved salt crystals behind, temperature for 2-3 hours before
½ cup (4 fl oz/r25 ml) soy sauce and blot off excess moisture (and eating.
· 2 tablespoons mirin salt) in a clean tea towel. Put the
• 2 tablespoons sake daikonin a medium bowl.
I small whole dried red japones chiles,
cut into fine rings
½ teaspoon mustard powder
1/.I 7 CHEFS
CRAB "MISO"
Preparation time , IO minutes Mash the crab "miso" into the inaka
Cooking time, 5 minutes misowith the egg yolk. Stir in the
Serves, 4 to 6 as a small bite crab meat and negi. In a small frying
pan over very low heat, stir slowly
• 4 tablespoons crab "miso" (page 358) for 2-3 minutes to concentrate the
• 2 tablespoons inaka miso flavor and reduce a little. Serve as
• I egg yolk, at room temperature a sakeaccompaniment.
2 crab legs, meat removed and torn
into rough chunks
¼ thin negi or l thin scallion (spring
onion), finely chopped
· Sake, for serving
CRAB AND YUBA MISO NABE
Preparation time, 25 minutes Cut the shiratakiin half crosswise Place the inaka misoin a small bowl
Cooking time, 25 minutes (at the table) and place in a wire-mesh sieve. and slowly whisk in about ½ cup
Serves, 6 to 8 Pour boiling water over it for (4 fl oz/125 ml) of the saketo loosen
TO seconds, rinse with cold water, the paste. Add the dashiand the
14 oz (400 g) shirataki noodles and leave in the sink to drain. Cut remaining l cup (8 fl oz/
• Boiling water the negicrosswise on the diagonal 250 ml) sake to a donabe[flameproof
2 medium negi or 6 fat scallions into ½-inch (1.25 cm) pieces. earthenware casserole] and set
(spring onions) on a portable tabletop burner
2 medium cooked crabs Pull the backs off of the crabs, (at the table) over medium-high
(about 4 ½ lb/2 kg total) without losing whatever might still heat. Simmer for I minute before
· 4 tablespoons inaka miso be adhering to the insides of the stirring in the sake-thinned miso,
1½ cups (12 fl oz/350 ml) sake shells. Scrape any coral-colored negi, shirataki,and crab. Bring back
· 6½ cups (52 fl oz/1.5 liters) matter on the shells or in the to a simmer, cook for I more
Katsuobushi Dashi (page 156) body cavities into a small bowl and minute, then ladle in theyuba.
l lb (450 g) soft, scoopable yuba reserve to make Crab "M iso" (see Simmer for 3 more minutes,
(page 443) above). Remove the gills from the blotting off any top scum with a
lchimi togarashi [powderedJapanese crab and discard those and the folded piece of paper towel. Ladle
red chile, optional) scraped shells. Tear off the legs and into individual bowls for serving
claws and break the crab bodies and sprinkle with ichimitogarashi,
in half. Reserve two legs if you are if desired.
making Crab "Miso."
406 1/ I. 7 CHEFS
• MARTIN BENN
SEPIA RESTAURANT
201 SUSSEX STREET
SYDNEY NSW 2000
AUSTRALIA
Martin Benn, chef/owner of Sepia Restaurant, started his cooking career

in London, working at the Oak Room, the Landmark, and the Criterion.
In 1996 he relocated to Australia, and in 1999 gained a place at Tetsuya' s
working under ChefTetsuya Wakuda, where he became head chef at
twenty-five years old.
KINMEDAI SASHIMI, MYOGA,

AND FRIED SHISO
Preparation time, 30 minutes , plus Remove the pin bones from the In a bowl, mix together the shiro
12 hours chilling time kinmedaifillets. Place the fillets on a sh'!)'Uand 7 tablespoons sesame oil
Cooking time, 30 minutes tray skin side up , making sure that and set aside.
Serves, 8 t here are no scales on the fillet.
Using a blowtorch, lightly sear the Using a sashimi knife, cut the
I kinmedai (Japanese golden eye skin, then leave to cool and relax. kinmedaiinto even thin slices a scant
snapper), about 4½ lb (2 kg), filleted, ½ oz (10 g) each (6-8 slices per
skin on, (see Note) Soak the konbu in water for person). Lay the slices in a single
• 5-inch (12 cm) piece konbu 30 minutes, then drain and pat layer on a tray and lightly warm
4 large salt-packed shiso leaves dry. (The soaking will dou hie the using a blowtorch. Do not heat too
· 8 myoga, trimmed size of the konbu.) much, just a light sear to warm the
I quart (32 fl oz/I liter) plus oils in the fish.
7 tablespoons neutral oil, such as white Place the konbu on a tray. Place the
sesame or canola (rapeseed), plus mor e kinmedaiflesh side down onto the Spoon some of the sh'!)'uand sesame
for frying konbu, cover and refrigerate for dre ssing over the kinmedai.Arrange
· 7 tablespoons shiro shoyu 12 hours before use. the fish on serving plates and lightly
Baby shiso leaves, for garnish dress again if required. Drain the
Pat dry the shisoleaves to remove the "!)'Dga well on paper towels, then
salt and moisture , and let stand at sprinkle evenly over the fish. Break
room temperature for 2-3 hours , up the fried shisoleaves and scatter
until the leaves are dry . over the myoga.Finish with fresh
baby shisoleaves.
Halve the "!)'oga lengthwise, then
finely slice on a mandoline. Soak in Note, You should end up with
ice water for 30 minutes before use. about I¾ lb (800 g) of fish total.
Pour the I quart (r liter) oil into

a heavy pot and heat the oil to
320°F (160°C). One at a time, fry
the shiso leaves until crisp. Drain
on paper towels and set aside in a
warm place.
1/ I 7 CHEFS
GRILLED SHIITAKE, CITRUS SOY,
YUZU, AND OBA
Preparation time, 24 hours, mostly Make the citrus soy sauce, Pour the Place the shiitakeon the grill
infusing time pon,zuinto a bowl and whisk in the (barbecue) and cook until tender
Cooking time, IO minutes sugar until dissolved. Add the soy and golden, about 5 minutes.
Serves, 8 sauce , dashi, and konbu and leave to Transfer to the bowl of citrus soy
infuse for 24 hours. sauce. Let marinate for I minute,
For the citrus soy sauce: then scoop out of the sauce.
r¼ cups (ro fl oz/300 ml) ponzu Discard the konbu and add the yuzu
I cup (200 g) superfine (caster) sugar juice to combine. Store in the To serve, stack about 5 shiitakein
3 ½ tablespoons Iwate soy sauce or refrigerator until it is time to grill each of 8 warm serving bowls.
regular soy sauce the shiitake. Drizzle with more citrus soy sauce
3 ½ tablespoons ichiban dashi or and grateyuzu zest on top. Finish
another homemade dashi made the Prepare the shiitake, Light the with shisoor oba chiffonade.
same day charcoal in an outdoor grill
2-inch (5 cm) piece konbu (barbecue) and let reduce to ash-
covered embers.
For the shiitake,
· 40 large shiitake Wipe the shiitakewith a cloth and
· Neutral oil, such as white sesame or trim off the woody part of the stem.
canola (rapeseed) Place in a bowl and coat lightly with
· Sea salt some white sesame oil and sea salt.
Grated zest of 2 yuzu or I Meyer lemon
8 fresh shiso or oba leaves , cut into
a fine chiffonade
1/ I 7 CHEFS
CHAWAN MUSH!, UNI,
SHIKUWASA, AND SOBACHA
Preparation time: 30 minutess Make the cauliflower puree, Place Make the chawanmushi, Break the
Cooking time, I hour IO minutes, plus the cauliflower, soy milk, butter, eggs into a bowl and whisk well
cooling time and salt in a medium pan. Cut a to break up. Whisk in the dashi,
Serves, 8 round of parchment paper to fit shirosh'!)lu,and 7 oz (200 g) of the
on top of the cauliflower and press cauliflower puree. Pass th rough
For the cauliflower puree, down. Bring the cauliflower to a a fine sieve.
14 oz (400 g) cauliflower florets gentle simmer, and then cover with
% cup (5 fl oz/150 ml) soy milk a lid and cook until just tender, Divide the puree among 8 ceramic
7 tablespoons (100 g) butter about 15 minutes. chawanmushior handleless teacups
• l pinch salt (preferably with lids). Cover with
Allow to cool slightly. Reserving a ceramic lid or plastic wrap (cling
For the shikuwasa sauce, the cooking liquid, drain the film). Set up a steamer and bring
7 tablespoons shikuwasa, yuzu, or cauliflower and transfer to a the water to a boil. Arrange the
daidai juice blender. Begin to blend, adding chawanmushiin the steamer basket,
2 tablespoons plus l teaspoon sugar some of the cooking liquid to help cover, and steam for 16 mjnutes,
· 4 tablespoons ichiban dashi blend and make a thick velvety or until just set. Remove from
· 2 teaspoons kudzu starch puree. Pass through a sieve, and the steamer.
Scant 3 tablespoons black bean set aside in the refrigerator until
soy sauce required. To serve, Warm the remaining
cauliflower puree in a pan and add
For the chawan mushi, Make the shikuwasa sauce, In a yuzu koshoto taste.
· 4 duck eggs heavy-bottomed pan, combine
Generous ¾ cup (6½ fl oz/200 ml) the shikuwasajuice and sugar and Make sure that the chawanmushiare
ichiban dashi heat to r22°F (50°C) to dissolve hot, then place a spoonful of the
4 teaspoons shire shoyu all the sugar, stirring occasionally. cauliflower and yuzu koshopuree into
Set aside. the center.
To serve:
Green yuzu kosho Place the kudzu starch in a small Place the uni tongues on a tray
48 uni [sea urchin] tongues pan and mix in the dashia little at and use a blowtorch to sear them.
· 20 g soba-cha [buckwheat tea] a time until dissolved, then add Place 6 uni tongues on top of each
the soy sauce. Bring slowly to a serving. Warm the shikuwasasauce
simmer, stirring constantly. The and coat the uni tongues. Sprinkle
dashiand soy sauce mix will thicken with the soba-cha and serve.
and become clear. Allow to cool
slightly, then stir into the shiquasa
syrup. Keep warm.
1/ I 7 CHEFS
KABU, AWASE MISO BROTH,
CHRYSANTHEMUM, AND NORI
Preparation time: 30 minutes In a saucepan , combine the konbu Strain the dashiinto a clean pan and
Cooking time, 30 minutes and 2 quarts (2 liters) water and bring back to a simmer. Remove
Serves, 8 bring to 144°F (62°C). Either the pan from the heat and place a
maintain the water temperature or sieve over the dashi.Add the misoand
3 - inch (8 cm) piece konbu remove from the heat and let steep push through the sieve into the dashi
IO kabu [Tokyo turnips] , golf ball size , for 30 minutes. stock. Stir to combine . Season with
greens attached a little soy sauce, if desired. Keep
Scant I oz (25 g) katsuobushi Meanwhile , remove the green stems the awase miso broth warm.
7 oz (200 g) awase miso (a mixture of and leaves from the kabu and set
dark and light miso) aside the nice tender ones (discard To serve, Cut the scallions (spring
• Tosa soy sauce [soy sauce infused with the rest). Rinse the leaves and stems onions) into fine julienne and
bonito flakes , optional] under cold running water, then pat placed in ice water for 30 minutes
Neutral oil, such as white sesame or dry and set aside. before serving.
canola (rapeseed)
Trim the kabu and use a r½-inch Cut the kabu stems in half so that
To serve: (4 cm) round cutter to cut cylinders they are more manageable. Heat
3 scallions (spring onions) around the middle of the kabu. a frying pan over medium to high
3 sheets nori, cut into fine julienne Repeat for a total of IO cylinders. heat and add a little white sesame
12 chrysanthemum flowers , Rinse under running water , then oil. Saute the kabu stems and leaves
1
petals picked slice crosswise into disks / , inch until just wilted but still crisp and
(r cm) thick. remove from the pan .
Remove the konbu from the water. Place the kabu stems and leaves into
Add the kabu disks , bring to a the bottom of 8 warmed serving
simmer , and cook gently until just bowls. Arrange the disks of warm
tender, about 4 minutes. Remove kabu over the stems. Warm the awase
from the heat but leave in the dashi miso broth and pour around and
stock. over the kabu. Drain the scallions
(spring onions) and place on top
Measure out I quar t (r liter) of the of the kabu. Finish with the nori and
kabu cooking liquid and transfer to chrysanthemum petals.
another pot. Bring to a simmer ,
add the katsuobushi
, and remove from
the heat. Cover with a lid and let
infuse for 15 minutes.
4,IO CHEFS
CRAB AND EGG YOLK RICE BOWL
WITH AONORI SALT AND KINOME
Preparation time: 15 minutes Make the aonori salt, Place the sea In a small bowl, stir together the
Cooking time, 15 minutes salt in a mortar and pestle and dashi, min·n, and soy sauce. Divide the
Serves, 8 grind. Add the toasted aonori and mixture between the pans. Reduce
grind together to a fine powder. the heat to medium - low and add
For the aonori salt, Set aside . half the cooked rice to each pan.
3 g coarse sea salt crystals Stir to separate the grains slightly.
1
/, oz (12 g) aonori [powdered green Make the crab and egg yolk rice,
nori] , toasted In each of 2 large saute pans, melt Lightly whisk the egg yolks, then
7 tablespoons (105 g) butter over divide between the pans, gently
For the crab and egg yolk rice, medium heat until it bubbles . stirring with a spatula . Increase
• 14 tablespoons (7 oz/200 g) (This recipe is best done in two the heat slightly to cook the eggs,
unsalted butter larger pans for a more even but do not overcook. Once the
14 oz (400 g) raw spanner crabmeat, cooking.) Dividing evenly, spread rice mixture is thickened and
picked over for shells and cartilage the crabmeat over the bottom of unctuous from the eggs, spoon
% cup (5 fl oz/r50 ml) ichiban dashi the pans. Cook over medium heat into serving bowls.
• Scant 3 tablespoons mirin until about two-thirds cooked (the
Scant 3 tablespoons light soy sauce crabmeat it still a little opaque) , Sprinkle with the aonori salt and
· 2 % cups (17 oz/ 480 g) steamed 2-3 minutes. sprigs of kinome. Serve hot.
Koshihikari rice
16 Taiyouran egg yolks or good
quality egg yolks
• 16 sprigs kinome
[leaves of sansho plant]
4n 1/ .I 7 CHEFS
• SHUKO ODA
KOYA BAR
50 FRITH STREET
LONDON W1D 4SQ
UNITED KIN GD OM
Raised in the United Kingdom in a Japanese household , Chef Shuko Oda

worked in the kitchen of Claska hotel in Tokyo before joining the Koya
family, She also studied udon-maldng at Kunitoraya in Paris.
AGEDASHI TOFU WITH

PICKLED AND FRESH RAMSON
Preparation time: 5 minutes , plus Take one-third of the ramsons and Add the tofu to the hot oil and fry
overnight pickling place them in an upright container. until all surfaces of the tofu are
Cooldng time: 35 minutes Add enough soy sauce to cover them crispy , about 6 minutes.
Serves: 2 (ramsons shrink as they pickle so
you don't need a lot of soy sauce). Plate the tofu in individual bowls or
I handful ramsons (wild garlic) Lay a sheet of plastic wrap (cling plates with depth. Lay fresh whole
• Soy sauce film) on top and a light weight pieces of ramson on top, neatly one
I oz (25 g) freshly shaved katsuobushi on top of that to make sure the after another. Pour in the hot dashi
(see Note) ramsons soak well. Leave them slowly from the top, enough to half
5 g dried konbu (see Note) to pickle overnight before using. cover the tofu; the heat of the dashi
· 3½ tablespoons mirin will also cook the ramson slightly.
· Vegetable oil, for deep-frying Soak the katsuobushiand konbu (wipe
2 pieces tofu, about 2¾ x 2 x ¾ inch with damp cloth before using) for Roughly chop the pickled ramsons
(7 x 5 x 2 cm) a couple of minutes in 2 cups and place a little mountain of them
Potato starch, for dredging (r6 fl oz/ 500 ml) water heated on top of the tofu, along with the
2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger to 185 °F (85°C). Reserving the grated ginger.
broth, strain through cheesecloth
into a small saucepan. Add a scant Note: To make a vegan dashi, omit
½ cup (3 1/2 fl oz/roo ml) soy sauce the katsuobushiand increase the
and the mirin and bring to a boil. amount of konbuto I oz (25 g). Steep
Keep hot while you fry the tofu. the konbufor r5 minutes in 2 cups
(r6 fl oz/500 ml) water heated to
Pour 4 inches (ro cm) oil into r40°F (6o°C). Reserving the broth,
a heavy medium pot and heat to strain through cheesecloth.
320°F (r6o°C).
Drain the tofu pieces on paper

towels for 5 minutes to get rid of
excess liquid. Dredge the tofu in
the potato starch and brush off any
excess so the tofu is covered in a
thin layer of the starch.
1/ :r. 7 CHEFS
CLAMS, FAVA BEANS, AND CAPERS
STEAMED IN DASHI BUTTER
Preparation time, 4 hours Place the clams in a single layer in In a deep frying pan, melt the
Cooking time, 30 minutes a container. Make a solution of butter with the capers over medium
Serves, 2 3% salt water by weight and add heat. Add the fava (broad) beans
enough to the clams to just cover and cook for about 3 minutes until
I4 oz (400 g) Manila (palourde) clams them. Refrigerate overnight. the beans are half -coo ked.
or surf clams
I oz (25 g) dried konbu Steep the konbu for r5 minutes in Quickly rinse the clams and add
Scant½ cup (3 1/2 fl oz/roo ml) 2 cups (16 fl oz/500 ml) water them to the pan along with the
soy sauce heated to r40°F (6o°C). Reserving sea aster. Measure out a generous
3 1/2 tablespoons mirin the broth, strain through a ¾ cup (7 fl oz/200 ml) dashi
• 2 knobs unsalted butter cheesecloth into a small saucepan. and add to the pan along with the
2 teaspoons salted capers, rinsed Add the soy sauce and mirin, bring to sake. Cover and cook until the
Handful of shelled fava (broad) beans, a boil, and remove from the heat. clams open.
peeled if desired
½ handful sea aster, samphire, Serve in a bowl with the broth .
or sea purslane
Scant ½ cup (3 ½ fl oz/roo ml) sake
GRILLED HAKE WITH SPICED

SKIN AND GREEN SURINAGASHI
Preparation time, Overnight for konbu Soak the konbu overnight in 1% cups Make the fish, Preheat the broiler
water and however long it takes to (13 fl oz/ 400 ml) cold water to (grill). Broil (grill) the hake for
dehydrate tangerine peel and cook rice make konbu water. 10-15 minutes and when almost
Cooking time, 40 minutes cooked, brush with the mirin and
Serves, 2 Make the spice mixture, In a bowl, cover the skin side with the spice
stir together the sesame seeds, sansho mixture and continue broiling
% oz (20 g) dried konbu pepper, and tangerine peel. until the fish is cooked and the
spices are crusty, 3-5 minutes.
For the spice mixture, Make the green surinagashi,
2 tablespoons sesame seeds (A traditional surinagashiis a thick To serve, pour a small ladle of
I tablespoon ground sansho pepper sauce made with ground fish, tofu, the surinagashionto a plate and place
I tablespoon ground dried tangerine vegetables, and dashi. The version the hake in the middle along with
peel (see Note) we use at the restaurant is green. a wedge of lemon.
(It could be any seasonal green leafy
For the green surinagashL vegetable, but I use watercress and Note, Tangerine peel can be
5 '/• oz (150 g) Japanese short rice here.) Start the surinagashiby dehydrated in a low -te mperature
grain rice, cooked grinding and mixing the rice with oven, a dehydrator , or under
7 oz (200 g) watercress, roughly drops of konbuwater with a mortar the sun, then ground in a spice
chopped and pestle. When all the rice is grinder. It can also be purchased
2 teaspoons soy sauce mashed, transfer to a blender along in many Asian grocery stores.
I teaspoon mirin with the rest of the konbuwater, the
• l pinch of salt watercress, soy sauce, mirin, and salt.
Blend until smooth and transfer to
For the fish, a saucepan. Heat gently while you
2 pieces hake (3½-5 oz/roo-150 g cook the fish.
each), boned and skinned
2 tablespoons mirin
· 2 lemon wedges
CHEFS
• BRETT REDMAN
JIDORI
89 KINGSLAND HIGH STREET
LONDON EB 2PB
UNITED KINGDOM
In 2006, after training at Sydney, Australia's top restaurants and when

he was only twenty-six, Chef Brett Redman opened Elliot's-his first
restaurant, named for the street he grew up on in Australia. Serving dishes
made with locally sourced, seasonal ingredients before the farm-to-table
trend took off , Elliot's was an overnight success. Since then, Redman
opened several more restaurants, includingJidori, which servesyakitori.
TSUKUNE
Preparation time, 20 minutes, plus Finely chop the shisoand scallions Form each ball around a skewer,
I hour chilling time (spring onions) greens. In a large molding it into an oval shape
Cooking time, 5 minutes bowl, using your hands, thoroughly around 1/, inch (r cm) from the tip
Makes, 8 skewers mix the chicken, panko, scallion and 2½ inches (6 cm) long.
greens , shisoleaves , and salt. Beat
3 large green shiso leaves the mixture with your hand until Light the charcoal in an outdoor
20 g scallions (spring onions), the mixture is sticky and paste-like. grill (barbecue) and let reduce to
green tops only (The mixing part is very important ash-covered embers. Cook the
10½ oz (300 g) ground (minced) to get a soft texture after cooking.) chicken skewers until they register
chicken thigh 0eg) Form the mixture into 8 even size 167°F (75°C) in the thickest part.
3 tablespoons panko breadcrumbs balls and refrigerate until firm,
• Scant % teaspoon sea salt about I hour. Serve the skewers with tare.
Sesame oil , for shaping the meatballs
8 skewers ( 7 inches/r8 cm long), soaked Lightly oil your hand with sesame
in cold water oil so the meat mixture won't stick
Tare (see below) , for serving to them.
GRILLED CORN
Preparation time, 15 minutes Prepare an outdoor grill revealing the corn kernels. Smother
Cooking time, 30 minutes (barbecue). On a medium hot part this with the butter, sea salt, shichimi
Serves, 4 of the grill, cook the corn in the togarashi,lime juice, and zest.
husks for about 30 minutes. The
4 ears of corn, unhusked (see Note) husks will start to go black and look Note, When grilling (barbecuing)
• Scant 9 tablespoons (125 g) butter burned, but no need to worry. it 's best to keep the husks on as it
• Flaky sea salt, for serving helps to steam the corn and keep
• Shichimi togarashi [seven spice Once the corn is cooked through, it moist , while still taking on the
powder], for serving place on a serving platter and smoky flavor of the grill.
2 limes, zested and cut into wedges, peel the husks away from the top
for serving
1/ :r:. 7 CHEFS
NEGIMA
Preparation time, 15 minutes Cut two 3/+- inch (2 cm) pieces piece of chicken , some of the
Cooking time, IO minutes from the white end of each scallion green scallion , then a final piece
Makes, 8 skewers (spring onion) , then one more of chicken . Repeat this with the
green piece the same size. remaining thighs and scallions.
8 scallions (spring onions)
4 large skinless boneless chicken thighs Cut each thigh into 6 even cubes . Light the charcoal in an outdoor
(Any long thin bits can be folded grill (barbecue) and let reduce to
over to make them equal in size. ash-covered embers. Cook the
This is very important , as you chicken skewers until they register
need them to cook through at the 167°F (75°C) in the thickest part .
same time.)
Serve the skewers with tare.
Skewer a piece of the scallion white ,
then a piece of chicken , another
piece of scallion white, another
TARE
Preparation time : 5 minutes In a medium pot, combine the a fine-mesh sieve , pushing every
Cooking time, 25 minutes garlic , ginger , scallions (spring last drop of liquid through. Store
Makes, about 2 cups (16 fl oz/ 500 ml) onions) , mirin, and sake. Bring to this in a thin, high - sided container
a simmer over medium heat and in which the skewers can fit.
• 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped cook until almost evaporated ,
4-inch (10 cm) piece fresh ginger, about 20 minutes. Reduce the
finely chopped heat and add both sugars, stirring
5 scallions (spring onions) , finely until dissolved. Add the soy
chopped sauce and simmer over low heat
2 cups (16 fl oz/ 500 ml) mirin for 5 minutes. Allow to cool
• 2 cups (16 fl oz/ 500 ml) sake completely, then strain through
· 3 1/2 tablespoons soy sauce
3
• /+ cup (150 g) demerara sugar
¾ cup (150 g) superfine (caster) sugar
TOMATO, UME, AND

RED SHISO SALAD
Preparation tim e : 30 minutes Arrange the tomato slices on Scatter this mixture and the liquid
Serves, 4 a plate. Season lightly with salt. over the tomatoes. Top with
a generous pile of mizuna and
8 vine tomatoes , sliced Dress the shallots with the mirin, rice umeboshi.
• Fine sea salt vinegar , and 5 tablespoons water.
2 shallots , thinly sliced Allow to sit for 30 minutes before
Scant ½ cup (3 ½ fl oz / 100 ml) mirin adding the shiso.
• 5 tablespoons rice vinegar
4 red shiso leaves , finely chopped
· I¾ oz (50 g) mizuna
6 umeboshi [salted sour plums], pitted
(stoned) and each torn into quarters
1/ I. 7 CHEFS
BROWN RICE, NORI,
AND BOILED EGG
Preparation time: IO minutes In a bowl , combine the brown rice , Spread the rice mixture out on a
Cooking time, 15 minutes, including scallions (spring onions), and as serving plate. Place the eggs on top
chilling time much mayonnaise as you like. and lightly season each egg with
Serves, 4 sea salt and sanshopepper . Sprinkle
Set up a bowl of ice and water. the aonoriover the whole plate like
1 1/,
cups (250 g) brown rice Bring a pot of water to a boil, you would dust something with
3 scallions (spring onions) , gently lower in the eggs to avoid powdered (icing) sugar.
thinly sliced cracking , and cook on a high
Kewpie mayonnaise simmer for 6 minutes. Drain and
· 4 eggs chill in the ice water for 6 minutes.
Fine sea salt and sansho pepper Then peel and halve.
'I, oz (10 g) aonori [powdered green
nori]
tt R~ C:)(l:J /' 0) WHIPPED TOFU, MELON,

i:t;~~l7=.-5( AND SAKE GRANITA
Preparation time, 4 hours, Mak e the sake granita, In a Halve and seed the melon , and
including chilling time saucepan, combine the superfine remove the rind. Cut the fruit into
Serves, 6 (caster) sugar and 3 1/, cups ¾-inch (2 cm) chunks .
(6 fl oz/ 800 ml) water and bring
For the sake granita, to a simmer over medium heat , Place the silken tofu and powdered
I cup (200 g) superfine (caster) sugar stirring to dissolve the sugar. (icing) sugar in a food processor.
Generous 3/+ cup (6 3/+ fl oz/200 ml) Let cool to room temperature, Scrape in the seeds out of the
dry sake then add the sake. Pour this into a vanilla bean and into the processor.
container that can fit in the freezer Blend on high for about 30
For serving, in a shallow layer. It will freeze seconds or until light and fluffy.
I melon , such as cantaloupe more quickly and you will be able to
Ilb 2 oz (500 g) silken tofu flake it more easily as well. A,,, soon To serve , place a few spoons of
2/, cup (80 g) powdered (icing) sugar as the top of the mixture freezes , the whipped tofu in the bottom
• I vanilla bean, split lengthwise scrape with a fork . Continue doing of a bowl or sundae glass. Top with
this as you go along. Don 't worry if some melon and then a nice big
you let it go too far and end up with pile of the flaky sakegranita.
a frozen block.Just use a spoon
and scrape the mixture a bit more
aggressively and you will still get
a nice flaky but icy granita.
1/ I. 7 CHEFS
• JAMISON BLANKENSHIP
CHUKO RAMEN
565 VANDERBILT AVENUE
BROOKLYN, NEW YORK 11238
UNITED STATES
Jamison Blankenship is the chef/owner of Chuko Ramen , located in

Prospect Heights and Bushwick in Brooklyn.
OKONOMIYAKI
Preparation time: 20 minutes Make the batter, In a bowl, whisk Transfer the pancakes to a cutting
Cooking time: IO minutes together all the batter ingredients. board. If you wish, cut into as many
Makes: 2 pancakes (serves 2-4) Set aside. (The batter can be made servings you'd like (traditionally
up to I day in advance. Keep the okonomjyakiis served whole and
For the batter: refrigerated .) people just pick pieces off with
% cup (87 g) all-purpose (plain) flour their chopsticks). Next, drizzle with
• Scant ¼ cup (38 g) rice flour Make the filling, In a bowl, mix okonomisauce (in a zig-zag fashion)
Scant l oz (25 g) finely grated naga imo together the cabbage, scallions onto the bacon side of the pancake.
Uapanese mountain yam) (spring onions), and benishoga. Do the same with the mayonnaise .
1
/s teaspoon baking powder Using a rubber spatu la, mix the Sprinkle aonoriand top with shaved
• ¾ teaspoon kosher salt vegetables into the batter. Make katsuobushi.
• 'I+teaspoon sugar sure everything is mixed together
2
/J cup (5'/• fl oz/r6o ml) water very well.
• 2 eggs
Cut the bacon in half so each piece
For the filling, is less than 6 inches (15 cm) long.
5 oz (140 g) green cabbage, sliced
'I+inch (6 mm) thick In a nonstick 8-inch (20 cm)
¾ oz (20 g) sliced scallions pan or griddle, heat the oil over
(spring onions) medium-high he at. Reduce the
¾ oz (20 g) benishoga Uapanese heat to medium and ladle in half
pickled ginger), page 428 of the batter mixture. Cook on
4 slices streaky bacon (rashers) one side until the batter is set and
To finish, almost golden brown, about
• Vegetable oil 5 minutes. Add half the bacon
• Okonomi sauce slices to the side facing up (make
Mayonnaise, preferably Kewpie brand sure the slices lie flat) . Flip the
· Aonori [seaweed flakes) pancake and cook until bacon is
Freshly shaved katsuobushi crispy. Adjust the heat as needed.
Repeat to make a second pancake.
417 CHEFS
VEGETARIAN RAMEN
Preparation time: 20 minutes, plus Wipe away any dirt from the konbu Bring the dashito a boil. Blend in
overnight soalang time with a damp towel , being careful the miso and ginger-scallion oil
Coolang time, 5 minutes not to wipe away any white powdery until emulsified.
Serves, 8 deposits. Soak the konbu in 4 quarts
(4 liters) water overnight. Cook the ramen noodles according
4 oz (II5 g) konbu to package directions. Drain.
8 oz (225 g) shiro miso [white miso] Remove the konbu from the water
1
/+ cup (2 fl oz/ 60 ml) Ginger-Scallion and cut several slits into the leaf. Ladle the soup into bowls , add
Oil (recipe follows) Return the konbu to the water, and noodles , and top with vegetables .
· A selection of seasonally available in a saucepan set over high heat , Serve immediately .
market vegetables, such as scallions and bring to a boil. Immediately
(spring onions), snow peas (mange tout) , turn the heat off and let the konbu
cooked cabbage , enola mushrooms , steep until it is is soft enough to
roasted squash, and corn push your finger through. Discard
• 8 servings ramen noodles the konbu (to prevent the stock from
becoming bitter).
GINGER-SCALLION OIL
Preparation time: 5 minutes In a medium pot , combine the oil, Remove from the heat , let cool to
Cooking time, IO minutes , plus ginger , garlic , and scallion and heat room temperature, and refrigerate
overnight chilling time over high heat. Fry until golden overnight. In the morning , strain
Makes, about I quart (32 fl oz/I liter) brown , about IO minutes. the oil , discarding the solids. The
oil will keep, refrigerated , for up
• I quart (32 fl oz/I liter) soybean oil to 4 weeks .
• I oz (30 g) fresh ginger, chopped
• I oz garlic (30 g), chopped
I oz (30 g) scallion (spring onion),
chopped
1/ I 7 CHEFS
• NIKI NAKAYAMA
N/NAKA
3455 OVERLAND AVENUE
LOS ANGELES, CA 9 00 34
UNITED STATES
At n / naka , her highly acclaimed restaurant in West Los Angeles , chef /

owner Niki Nakayama has secured a place among the foremost chefs in the
world for modern kaiseki-a traditional Japanese dining discipline based
in gratitude and appreciation-balancing taste , texture, and presentation
through a progression of dishes served in a meticulous , thoughtfully
curated order. Sous chef and co-owner Carole Iida-Nakayama works
alongside Niki Nakayama , and focuses on executing Chef Niki's creative
vision in the kitchen . Partners in and out of the restaurant, Chefs Carole
and Niki were married in 2016 .
TAMAGO T O JI S O UP
Preparation time: IO minute s In a pot, combine shiitake Remove from the heat and season
Cooking time: 15 minutes mushrooms , dashi, mirin , and usukuchi to taste with salt. Finish with several
Serves: 4 sh'!)'u. Bring to a slow simmer. drops of sesame oil and garnish
with the mitsuba. Serve hot.
2 shiitake mushroom caps, rinsed and Meanwhile, in a small dish, mix the
julienned potato starch and I tablespoon cold
2 cups (16 fl oz/ 475 ml) ichiban dashi water into a slurry.
• 2 tablespoons mirin
I tablespoon usukuchi (light colored) When the broth starts to boil ,
soy sauce slowly drizzle in the slurry a little
I tablespoon potato starch bit at a time until the soup starts
egg , beaten
• I to lightly thicken and is the texture
· Fine sea salt of egg drop soup. (Note: You may
2-3 small drops sesame oil not need to use all of the starch
4 sprigs mitsuba , cut into ½ - inch slurry mixture.) Once the soup
(I. 25 cm) lengths , including the leaves is thickened , reduce the heat to
a slow simmer again and drizzle in
the beaten egg while stirring into
the soup.
1/ I. 7 CHEFS
CHILLED CHICKEN SALAD
WITH MISO DRESSING
Preparation time, 25 minutes, plus Make the misodressing, In a Set up a steamer and bring the
chilling time bowC combine miso and vinegar water to a boil. Arrange the
Cooking time, 15 minutes whisk until loosened. Add the chicken in the steamer basket,
Serves, 4 mayonnaise and slowly drizzle in cover, and steam until the internal
dashito adjust the taste. Dressing temperature reaches 165°F (74°C),
For the miso dressing, should be tart and slightly salty. 5-6 minutes. When cool enough to
2 teaspoons shiro miso [white miso] Add grated ginger and pepper handle, tear the chicken meat into
• ½ cup (4 fl oz/120 ml) rice vinegar to taste. Refrigerate until cold long strips.
· 2 tablespoons Kewpie mayonnaise before using.
· ¼ cup (2 fl oz/60 ml) dashi To assemble the salad, in a bowl,
(page 156), ichiban, or store-bought Make the salad, Cut the romaine combine the lettuce , onion, and
• I teaspoon grated fresh ginger heart into ½-inch (r.25 cm) strips. chicken strips. Add l tablespoon
Freshly ground black pepper Wash and drain in a colander. Chill misodressing and toss, mixing
in the refrigerator. Thinly slice well. Adjust with more dressing
For the salad, the onion, then rinse with ice cold if needed. Serve immediately.
I romaine heart water for 2-3 minutes. Drain and
1
• /2 onion chill in the refrigerator.
6 oz (170 g) lean boneless, skinless
chicken breast Wash the chicken and pat dry. Trim
l tablespoon soy sauce excess fat. In a bowl , combine the
• l tablespoon sake soy sauce and sake. Place the chicken
in the bowl and turn a few times .
Remove from the bowl and pat dry.
NASU AND SHISHITO KINPIRA
Preparation time: I hour 15 minutes Make the sweet miso, In a pot, and stir in I tablespoon sweet
Cooking time, 35 minutes combine the sake and mirin, bring miso. Continue to cook until well
Serves, 4 to a boil , and cook off the alcohol. combined and the ingredients
Whisk in the sugar and miso until start to become caramelized.
For the sweet miso: incorporated. Remove from the Immediately remove from the heat
¼ cup (2 fl oz/60 ml) sake heat and keep at room temperature and transfer to a plate. Sprinkle
· 'I•cup (2 fl oz/60 ml) mirin until ready to use. and mix in the sesame seeds.
· 'I•cup (50 g) sugar Serve hot.
½ cup (135 g) shiro miso [white miso] Make the kinpira, Heat a saute pan
until slightly smoking. Add the
For the kinpira, sesame oil and saute the eggplant
l tablespoon sesame oil (aubergine). When it starts to
2 medium Japanese eggplants soften, add the shishito peppers.
(aubergines), cut into 1/+-inch When the shishito peppers start
(6 mm) slices to blister , deglaze the pan with
8 shishito peppers, cut into the mirin. Season with soy sauce
medium dice
I teaspoon mirin
I teaspoon soy sauce
2 teaspoons toasted sesame seeds
420 1/ I. 7 CHEFS
CRISPY FRIED TUNA NUGGETS
Preparation time : 20 minutes Marinate the tuna , Cut the tuna Remove the tuna from the
Cooking time, I hour into large chunks. In a bowl, marinade and pat dry with paper
Serves, 4 combine the sake, mirin, soy sauce , towels. In a bowl, combine the
and dashi.Add the tuna and tuna, potato starch, and vinegar.
marinate in the refrigerator for Mix and make sure to coat the tuna
• ¾ lb (340 g) yellowfin tuna 45 minutes to I hour. completely.
• ¼ cup (2 fl oz/ 60 ml) sake
• ¼ cup (2 fl oz/ 60 ml) mirin Pour 2 inches (5 cm) oil into a Working in batches, carefully start
1
/+ cup (2 fl oz/ 60 ml) soy sauce deep heavy pot and heat the oil to fry the tuna until crispy, 3-4
1
/+ cup (2 fl oz / 60 ml) dashi (page 156) to 340°F (r7r°C). minutes. Drain on paper towels.
• I teaspoon
garlic powder
Rice bran oil , for deep-frying Serve hot with lemon wedges.
½ cup (80 g) katakuriko [potato starch]
· 1/-2teaspoon rice vinegar
• Lemon wedges , for serving
KINOKO GOHAN
Preparation time: IO minutes Make the dashi broth mix, Mix all Make the rice, Place 2 cups
Cooking time, varies, depending on the the ingredients together. If you (16 fl oz/500 ml) dashibroth mix
rice cooker want to make more or less than and the remaining ingredients into
Serves, 4 this amount mix the ingredients a rice cooker and cook according to
in these proportions, 20 parts dashi, manufacturer's instructions . "When
For the dashi broth mix, l part mirin , I part usukuchish'?Yu· done, fluff the rice and toss in
2½ cups (20 fl oz/ 590 ml) dashi some yu~u zest. It's quite delicious
· 2 tablespoons mirin to eat with nori.
2 tablespoons usukuchi shoyu
For the rice,

2 cups (14 oz/ 400 g) short-grain
Japanese rice
2 shiitake caps , julienned
• ½ package shimeji
½ package enoki mushrooms
Finely grated zest of l yuzu , for garnish

• Toasted nori , for serving
CHEFS
• SYLVAN MISHIMA BRACKETT
IZAKAYA RINTARO
82 14TH STREET
SAN FRANCISCO, CA 94103
UNITED STATES
Kyoto-born Sylvan Mishima Brackett opened Rintaro in the Mission

District in San Francisco in 2014. Th e re staurant weaves together his
experience at Chez Panisse with his Japanese heritage . Inspired by
the bustling L{(]kqyas
inJapan and Brack ett 's memories of his Japanese
mother's cooking in Northern California , Rintaro serves i'(Pkqya dishes,
incorporating special ingredients from Japan with locally raised meat and
organic vegetables, as well as fish from the California coast. The restaurant
space equally reflects this unique experience , with hand-planed woodwork
and mud plaster from the hills near Brackett's chi ld hood home inJapan.
BUKKAKE UDON
Preparation time, 45 minutes Make the onsen tamago , In a To serve , drape a serving portion
Cooking time, I hour r5 minutes circulating water bath , slowly cook of udon over your fingers and
Serves, 3 the eggs at 149°F (65°C) for artfully lay it down in a figure eight
45 minutes . Shock in cold water. in a chilled bowl. Ladle ¼ cup
For the onsen tamago, Refrigerate until needed for up (2 fl oz/60 mi) mori !sl!)IU over the
3 large eggs , at room temperature to 2 days. (If you don't have an udon and arrange on top a chilled
immersion circulator , cook the eggs onsentamago,a small pile of salt-
For the udon, in water resting on a steamer [to massaged cucumbers , cherry
IO½ oz (300 g) best-quality udon pr event the eggs from touching the tomatoes, daikon,a bit of ginger ,
¾ cup (r2 fl oz/r8o ml) Mori Tsuyu bottom of the pot] over very low sliced scallions (spring onions),
(page 424) , chilled heat. Keep a thermometer and add and fried tempurabits. Mix all
Scant I oz (25 g) salt-massaged bits of ice to keep the temperature together to eat.
cucumbers constant. This requires patience
Scant I oz (25 g) Sun Gold cherry and time , but will give you
tomatoes, sliced extraordinary eggs.)
Scant I oz (25 g) grated daikon
• Grated fresh ginger, for serving Make the udon, Bring a large pot
Sliced scallions (spring onions) , of water to a boil over high heat.
for serving Add the udon to the boiling water
Fried tempura bits (page 238), and cook according to the package
for serving instructions until tender. Drain
the udon and transfer to an ice bath
until firm and chewy. Drain well.
422 1/ I 7 CHEFS
TURNIP, KOMATSUNA,
SCALLION, AND APPLE
Preparation time: 45 minutes, plus 20 Make the tama miso: In a bowl set Make the vegetables: In a large
minutes soaking time over a pan of simmering water , bowl , combine the dashi, usukuchi
Cooking time: 45 minutes combine the miso, sesame paste, sh'!)'u, and mirin . Soak the turnips,
Serves: 3 egg yolks, and sakeand cook over scallions (spring onions), and
medium heat , stirring often, until komatsunain the seasoned dashifor
For the tama miso: hot , about 20 minutes. Remove 20 minutes (or overnight). Squeeze
2 lb 3 oz (1 kg) saikyo miso [a white, from the heat and strain through a the water out of the vegetables.
sweet miso , originally from Kyoto] fine-mesh sieve into a bowl. Cover Dress with 1-2 tablespoons nuta
· 2 table spoon sesame paste and refrigerate until needed. The sauce and serve with apple slices.
• 4 egg yolks tama miso can be made ahead; it will
r½ cups (12 fl oz/ 360 ml) sake, boiled keep for up to 2 weeks.
for about IO minutes to remove alcohol
Make the nuta sauce: In a bowl ,
For the nuta sauce: whisk together the miso , sugar ,
n¼ oz (320 g) tama miso karashi,yuzu juice, and usukuchi sh'!Yu
• 31.oz (20 g) sugar until combined. Taste and adjust
Scant 2 tablespoons (17 g) karashi seasonings.
Uapanese mustard powder]
2½ fl oz (70 mi) yuzu or Meyer lemon
juice (or a mix)
½ oz (12 g) usukuchi shoyu
For the vegetables:

l cup (8 fl oz/ 250 ml) dashi
• 2 tablespoons usukuchi shoyu
· l tablespoon mirin
2 Tokyo turnips, cut into quarters or
sixths (depending on size) , blanched in
salted boiling water until just tender
• I bunch fine scallions (spring onions) ,
blanched in salted boiling water until
wilted and tender , shocked in ice wat er ,
cut into %-inch (2 cm) lengths
· l bunch komatsuna Uapanese mustard
greens], blanched in salted boiling
water until tender, shocked in ice water ,
squeezed dry, and cut into %-inch
(2 cm) pieces
½ Fuji apple (or other flavorful tart ,
crisp apple) , sliced thin
423 CHEFS
PETRALE SOLE WITH DAIKON,
PEPPERS, AND MORI TSUYU
Preparation time, I hour Make the mori tsuyu, Combine the Fry the fish, turning once or twice ,
Cooking time, I hour 5 minutes dashi and udonkaeshiand set aside. until the fish is crackling and the
Serves, 3 bones are crisp , 6-8 minutes.
Make the fish, In a large pot over Carefully remove the fish from
For the mori tsuyu, high heat , add enough oil to come the oil, shaking off excess oil,
Scant ½ cup (3 '/2 fl oz/roo ml) 4 inches (IO cm) up the sides of the and drain on a wire rack. Plate
Katsuobushi Dashi (page 156) pot and warm it to 330° - 350°F immediately. Drizzle the morits'!)'u
2 tablespoons (25 ml) Udon Kaeshi (r65°-175°C). over the fish-it should sizzle when
(recipe follows) poured over.
Wash the fish carefully and
For the fish, thoroughly dry. Eye-side-up , Serve with lemon wedges
Canola (rapeseed) oil, for frying slice along the center backbone for squeezing over the fish ,
I small petrale sole (about I lb / 450 g) or line , carefully cut from the center grated daikon, and simple fried
other small flounder, cleaned and scaled line along the bones to make two peppers or blanched greens.
• ½ teaspoon kosher salt pockets and expose the skeleton Eat immediately-the entire fish ,
I cup (5 oz/r50 g) potato starch without cutting through and except the collarbone , should
removing the fillets. Do the same be eaten.
For serving, on the backside. (The bones are the
Lemon wedges best part and won ' t cook properly
Freshly grated daikon unless exposed.) Season the fish
Fried shishito peppers or with the salt, dredge in the potato
blanched greens starch, knock off excess starch, and
carefully slide into the hot oil.
iJ'::z.
L UDON KAESHI
Preparation time: IO minutes In a large pot set over high heat Remove from the heat and let sit
Cooking time, 30 minutes, plus bring the mirin to a boil and cook for I hour before straining. Cover
I hour cooling time until all the alcohol has cooked off and refrigerate for up to 2 months.
Makes about 3 quarts (96 fl oz/3 liters) and you no longer smell it , about
20 minutes. Add the usukuchiand
2 quarts (64 fl oz/2 liters) mirin white sh'!Yusand katsuobushi,and
• 2 cups (16 fl oz/500 ml) bring to a boil. Skim the foam that
usukuchi shoyu forms on the surface, reduce the
I quart (32 fl oz/r liter) white shoyu heat to low , and cook for about
3½ oz/roo g coarsely shaved IO minutes.
katsuobushi
424 CHEFS
•
gurossar1
GLOSSARY
INGREDIENTS
AMANATSU A tart light orange citrus good used for salads.
AONO RI Powdered green nori, commonly sprinkled on okonom_!yaki

and some sobadishes .
ARAME This species of kelp-which is easily found dried abroad-contains a wide

[SEA OAK] range of nutritional benefits, and is often added to stir-fries, simmered
dishes, soups, and salads. Reconstitute for IO minutes in cold water before
using. Outside of Japan , Eden Foods (United States) and Clearspring
(United Kingdom and Europe) package and sellJapanese arame.
ASATSUKI A small Japanese shallot that appears in the spring.
ATSUAGE Weighted blocks of tofu that are deep-fried; often included in simmered dishes.
AWAFU Wheat gluten [fu, page 430] mixed with millet. Used in soups.
AZUKI Small red beans that are simmered, smashed , and sweetened to make the
bean paste to fill Japanese sweets. They are also simmered whole and served
in sweet syrup.
BENISHOGA This is a finely sliced or julienned ginger , pickled in umesu(sour plum

"vinegar ") and red shisoto create a salty, bright-pink pickle, which adds pop
to fried foods or vinegar dishes .
BOK CHOY Heads ofbok choy are most commonly cut lengthwise into thin wedges
before simmering or stir-frying. Small heads work best for presentation
when cutting in this style.
BROWN RICE Hulled rice that has been slightly or lightly polished . Serve it instead of
white rice , if you prefer .
BROWN RICE VINEGAR There are two methods for producing kurosu(which translates as black
vinegar , but is not to be confused with the inky Chinese black vinegar).
Most brown rice vinegars (easily found abroad) are fermented in black
stoneware pots in southernJapan, primarily in Kagoshima prefecture of
Kyushu. Cooked rice , rice koji, and spring water are mixed together and
left in the pots on the hillsides to convert to alcohol , and then ferment
into vinegar over the course of a year. The mixture is then left to mellow
for one year until it develops a light caramel profile. (Although some
companies are aging their vinegar for three or fi.ve years to develop even
more caramelized , elegant notes .) Iiojozo , Ohyama , and Kakuida, based
inJapan, are excellent producers of this product. And Eden Foods in
the United States sources their brown rice vinegar fromJapan, so it is a
well-made version. More rare, and quite elegant, is the brown rice vinegar
produced from fermenting in - house brewed brown rice sake. Sennari in
Hiroshima makes just such a special product, and it is worth seeking out.
CANOLA (RAPESEED) OIL Traditionally produced canola oil has an almost orange hue and is fairly
pungent. Though this style is still being made locally around Japan, it
is not as commonly used as it once was . A refined version of this oil is
available through Yonezawa Shoten . Spectrum Organics or Clearspring
are good choices in the United States and Europe.
CHA TSAI This is a red chili-pickled mustard plant stem from Sichuan, China , more
commonly used several decades ago in various Chinese-inspired dishes. Rinse
off the chili paste and soak in several changes of water to desalinate before using.
GLOSSARY
CHAWAN MUSHI Savory egg custards made from a base of egg and broth and small pieces of
seafood or meat, vegetables , mushrooms, and aromatics . Chawan mushiare
typically steamed and served in handleless ceramic tea cups with lids.
CHIKUWA This is a type of "sausage" made by wrapping fish paste around a bamboo
stick and steaming and grilling. Used in oden, a fish sausage one-pot dish .
CHIRIMEN JAKO Whitebait (tiny fish) in the anchovy and sardine family that are quick-
boiled in saltwater and partially sun - dried. Th ey are also sold less dried as
shirasu,and are good in stir-fries, egg dishes , and on white rice .
CHUZARATO A coarse - crystal , light brown sugar, produced in the Southern islands
of japan, used in pickling, simmering, and , in the local area where it is
produced , as a sweetener instead of min·n.
CUCUMBERS Japanese cucumbers are long and thin, with few seeds and mild skin.
Substitut e pickling , Persian , or English cucumbers if the Japanese ones
are unavailable. If using Western cucumbers , it is better to peel them and
remove some of the seeds .
CURRY POWDER This is a Western invention thatJapan borrowed . In the United States ,
Penzeys makes a good version.
DAI DAI This is a sour orange used to make ponzu sauce.
DAI KON This giant white, purple , red , or orange radish can be round , fat , thin,
short , or long. Outside Japan it is usually found medium - sized and white.
Winter is said to be the best season for daikon, but spring daikonis also
tasty. Out - of - season daikonlacks heat or character , so could be substituted
with other radish-like roots or turnips . Daikon is often pickled , eaten with
sweetened vinegar, or simmered.
DASHI Japanese broth made from one , or a combination , of the following

ingredients, konbu, katsuobushi,small dried fish , and dried shiitake.
DASHI SHOYU Soy sauce infused with the element s used to make various dashi, katsuobushi
,
konbu, iriko, shiitake. Use in egg and tofu dishes, or stir-fries.
EGGPLANTS (AUBERGINES) Milder than Western globe eggplants, Japanese eggplants are small and
elongated , and the skin is typically eaten.
ENOKI These small, white, cultivated mushrooms add texture to dressed dishes .
They are propagated inside humidity-controlled facilities and sold with
the spongy-like roots attached.
ERYNGII These are thick , white-stemmed, cultivated mushrooms about 6 inches

[KING OYSTER MUSHROOMS] (15 cm) long with medium-size , flat , dusky - tan caps.
FIDDLEHEADS Probably the most readily available mountain vegetable outside of Japan ,
fiddleheads are small edible ferns. While some people rub them in ash or
baking soda (bicarbonate of soda), then soak in cold water before cooking,
that step is not necessary . Fiddleheads are most often blanched, then
seasoned and dressed. Kogomiare fuzzy tight-headed ferns with thick stems ,
whereas warabiare long, thin fiddleheads with finely curled tops.
Top quality Japanese fish sauce rivals the best Italian colaturas,though so far ,
429 GLOSSARY
FISH SAUCE it has not been exported much. Hopefully, that will change, since Japanese
fish sauce is well made and affordable . When fish are plentiful, the catch is
salted and packed into large cedar barrels to ferment for two to three years ,
until the mostly broken - down fish solids have settled at the top of the
barrel and the liquid tapped from the bottom of the barrel is cognac-hued,
with a salty , pleasantly fishy profile.
FU Most commonly used by Buddhist monks for temple food preparations, Ju

[WHEAT GLUTEN] also appears in clear soups in the Kyoto area, and often will be formed into
pretty shapes , such as flowers or leaves.
FUKI Fukiis an elongated green stalk similar to rhubarb in appearance (except

[BUTTERBUR] color) and is bitter and astringent. It should be rubbed in baking soda
(bicarbonate of soda) or ash, soaked in cold water to remove bitterness,
then peeled and simmered before flavoring. It is also good as tempura.
FUKI NO TO These bitter , wide-open buds (about the size of golf balls) of the butterbur
[BUTTERBUR BUDS] plant work wonderfully for tempuraand are delicious blanched and dressed.
GANMODOKI These deep-fried croquettes are made from smashed tofu mixed with
grated nagaimo [mountain yam] to bind , and are flavored with finely
chopped carrot , konbu, shim~ji.and dried shrimp (prawns).
GARLIC Small, mild lavender- or pink-skinned garlic is the best choice for
Japanese food . It is used mainly in pickling and Chinese-influenced
dishes.
GENMAI MISO This is soybean miso fermented using brown rice koji. Bright and rich,
[BROWN RICE MISO] brown rice miso is probably the most immediately accessible misoin terms
of flavor, besides inaka miso(page 432) , for most dishes.
GINGER One of the most important flavors inJapanese food, aJapanese pantry
should always be stocked with ginger. Young ginger (also called "spring
ginger" outside of Japan) is available in midsummer and is either pickled,
eaten raw with miso, or used as a garnish. Local mature ginger is available at
farm stands from late fall through early winter and imported ginger is sold
year-round in supermarkets .
GINKGO NUTS Smelly in their raw state, these unusual rubbery nuts can be addictive when
salt-grilled. Eat no more than ten nuts per day for an adult and five per
day for children , since these nuts contain a neurotoxin, which can cause
nausea and convulsions if eaten in excess . Though these nuts are essential
to Japanese cuisine , feel free to omit them from any recipe where they
appear.
GLUTINOUS RICE This short-grain white rice is used for sweets, mochi, and Sekihan
(page 298).
GOBO An extremely long, thin fibrous root that , along with carrot and daikon,
[BURDOCK] might be one of the most commonly used vegetables in traditional Japanese
food. Scrub with a vegetable brush , but do not peel before using. As you
cut the burdock, soak it in a bowl of water with a healthy dash of vinegar or
lemon juice to prevent discoloration.
430 GLOSSARY
GREEN PEPPERS These are thin-skinned, small peppers, similar in taste to poblanos but
without heat.
GYOZA Known as potstickers in English, gyoza are dumplings borrowed from

the Chinese , though they have become a standard Japanese dish, often
preceding a bowl of rumen. Gyozaare commonly stuffed with ground pork
and shrimp, cabbage, and garlic chives, but can also be vegetarian or filled
with combinations of chopped meat, seafood, and various vegetables.
HAKURIKIKO With a lower gluten count than bread or all-purpose (plain) flours , udon
[UDON FLOUR) flour is good for making noodles , okonomgaki, manju, gyoza, and tempura.
If you cannot find udon flour, substitute unbleached white pastry flour.
HIDAKA KONBU Probably the variety of konbu most easily available abroad, Hidakakonbu is
prized for its pleasantly slippery consistency and soft texture after soaking
or heating .
H IJI KI High in fiber and minerals , hijiki [a type of seaweed] has been consumed for
centuries in Japan. Ink-black and wiry, dried hijiki adds textures to stir-
fries and simmered dishes, and is packed with minerals. Dried hijiki should
be reconstituted for 20 minutes in cold water before using. Fresh hijiki,
available inJapan in the spring , has a lovely, soft green texture and works
well in salads .
HIM ONO Half-day air-dried fish or shellfish, usually grilled and eaten for breakfast
or lunch .
HOSHIGAKI These sun-dried astringent persimmons are used in dressed dishes and
Fried Dried Persimmons (page 230) . If you cannot find hoshigaki,substitute
unsulphured dried organic apricots.
ICHIMI TOGARASHI Ground dried red chilejaponesthat is used for garnishing soups or one-
pot meals.
INAKA MISO Translated as ucountry " miso, this soybean miso is fermented using white rice
[WHITE RICE MISO) koji, and is light and bright. For those who can lay their hands on it , this is
the first miso to stock in your pantry since it is light , yet still has the essential
fermented notes one often looks for in a miso.
IRIKO Sun-dried fish, ranging from tiny eso [a variety of juvenile sardine] to the
larger aji [horse mackerel], used for making lriko Dashi (page 157).
ISHIRI/ISHIRU Fish sauce produced in Ishikawa prefecture , directly west of Tokyo , from
sardine-like fish, such as iwashi[sardine] and megisu[dottyback], as well as
saba [mackerel], and ika [squid].
JAPANESE WALNUTS Called onigurumi [devil walnuts] inJapanese for their rock-hard shells, these
walnuts , grown in mountainous areas , are often used in those regions in
place of sesame seeds . Small , oily , and intensely nutty, these walnuts are
superb. These are similar in taste and appearance to black walnuts, so use
black walnuts, if available. Otherwise, substitute fresh , organic walnuts
from a reputable grower.
431 GLOSSARY
JAPANESE WHITE RICE This short-grainedjaponica rice, despite decreased consumptions,
is still considered "the meal" inJapan. Although the rice you get in the
supermarket in Japan is already polished , you can buy unpolished rice
at one of the country ' s farm cooperatives (JA, Japan Agriculture) and have
it polished according to your personal preference . Anyone who grows their
own rice can either buy a home rice polishing machine (about the size of
a washer) or have it polished by one of the polishing vending machines that
dot the countryside.
KAIWARE DAIKON Highly perishable, these fine sprouts are propagated (and sold) on a paper
[DAIKON SPROUTS) sponge. Use in salads or as a garnish. Any radish sprouts can be substituted.
KAMABOKO A type of processed seafood product, artisanal kamabokois made by steaming

pounded white fish paste mixed with salt , sugar, egg whites , fish sauce , and
sake. Suzuhiro Kamaboko in Odawara (Hakone) is the best producer of
kamabokoinJapan. Compared to large-scale commercial versions, the flavor
of this artisanal kamabokois remarkable, and the texture is at once silky-soft
and chewy .
KANPYO These ribbons of dried gourd are reconstituted by soaking in water for 20
[GOURD] minutes. They are commonly used to tie various simmered foods rolled in
konbu or stuffed in tofu pouches .
KANTEN Made from red seaweed, agar-agar is used to create jellied desserts such as
[AGAR-AGAR] Soy Milk and Cocoa Gelee (page 382),
KARASHINA Spicy , prickly greens that do well pickled or in one-pot dishes.

[MUSTARD GREENS]
KATS UOB USHI Traditionally made hongarekatsuobushiare simmered skipjack fillets smoothed
with skipjack tuna paste , to hide bone striations and cracks, and smoked
for several days in a wood-fired chamber. The charcoal-like fillets are then
sanded to remove the black, and inoculated with a mold spray. They are
then put in a warm, humid room to ferment , after which they are sun-
dried and fermented, rotating periodically between the fermenting room
to drying under the sun over a six-month period. The best katsuobushi-
which should resemble petrified wood-have a ruby-red cross-section
without white fat veins when shaved open. A katsuobushikezuriki[shaving box]
with a heavy, sharp, planing blade is necessary for shaving katsuobushi.Most
packages of preshaved katsuobushicome from simmered and smoked skip jack
tuna fillets-arabushi-skipping the sun-drying and fermentation stage.
Commonly called "bonito," this term is a mistranslation. Katsuo, the fish
used to make katsuobushi,is actually skipjack tuna , not bonito.
KIN AKO Flour used most commonly to dust Japanese sweets such as Ohagi
[ROASTED SOYBEAN FLOUR] (page 378).
KIRIBOSHI DAIKON These sun-dried daikonthreads are easy to make at home if you have sunny
winters and a mandoline with a blade for julienning. Air - dry the julienned
doikon pieces in the direct sunlight for about one week, until completely
desiccated.
KOBOSU This small green citrus with bright juice , is valued for both peel and juice
and used with raw or steamed white fish .
KOCHUJAN Thi s spicy, fermented Korean chile paste is made from a combination of
glutinous rice , fermented soybeans , salt , and dried red chiles.
432 GLOSSARY
KOJI A mold spore that inoculates grains or beans, which are then used
[ASPERGILLUS ORYZAE] to initiate fermentation to make soy sauce, miso, mirin, sake, or shochu
[a fermented , distilled alcohol made from sweet potatoes, wheat,
buckwheat, rice , brown sugar, or chestnuts] .
KO MATS UNA A versatile mustard now grown by farmers outside of Japan, komatsunais
similar to bok choy, but with less fibrous leaves and thinner stems. Keep
the root ends intact for blanching and refreshing .
KONBU Kelp is both cultivated and gathered wild , primarily in Hokkaido (the
northernmost island of Japan). Due to a crisis in the supply of wild konbu in
the early 2000s, the harvesting and gathering of konbu is carefully regulated
and allowed only during part of the day and over the course of less than two
months in the summer, depending on the location.
KONNYAKU A firm , gelatinous product made from the corm (underground "bulb")
of a plant called konjac, konlJYakuis sold as a block or amorphous sphere.
When shopping for konlJYaku,check for any discoloration in the packing
liquid since there often is no expiration date on this product sold abroad.
KonlJYakuis a zero-calorie , high-fiber food that is sliced and added to stir-
fries, soups, and simmered dishes. While typically gray, white konlJYakuis
also available.
KOYADOFU This freeze-dried pressed tofu was traditionally kept outside in the winter
until all moisture evaporated. Associated closely with temple food, k(!Yadofu
is reconstituted by carefully soaking in several changes of boiling water
until sponge-like.
KUDZU This powder is produced from the kudzu root and is used to solidify Coma
Dofu (page 54) and Peanut "Tofu" (page 384).
KUMQUATS These small orange citrus fruits are served raw or simmered as a sweet.
KUROMAME Round black beans that are often simmered with sugar served whole during
Japanese New Year.
KUROMITSU Dark brown syrup similar to molasses, which is made by combining two
parts kurosato(see below) to one part water and simmering for about 5
minutes over medium heat until thick bubbles form and the liquid has
reduced to a thick syrup .
KUROSATO This dense , clumpy molasses-like sugar is used inJapanese sweets.
KYORIKIKO Use bread flour for Tsoyupin (page 255) and Okinawan-Style Sesame
[BREAD FLOUR] Donuts (page 386). Find a flavorful one , such as King Arthur Flour
(United States) or Guisto's (United States) for best results.
LILY BULB Available in the late winter to spring in Japan, lily bulbs look a bit
like garlic cloves without the papery skin. They add texture more than
flavor, but still have a lovely subtle taste. Pare off discolored spots
and separate the scales from the bulb before using. They are good in
savory egg custards.
LOQUATS Loquats are pear-shaped, apricot-like fruit that appear in the early
summer. They are eaten raw as a fruit course, or as a cordial , steeped in
sugar and an alcohol typically distilled from sweet potatoes-and sold
under the name "white liquor."
433 GLOSSARY
LOTUS ROOT The stem of a lotus flower plant, lotus root comes in short, fat sausage-like
lengths and is in season in autumn . A cross section of lotus root looks like
a flower and the appealing crunch is reminiscent of water chestnuts. Peel
before using , and soak in cold water with vinegar or lemon if not using
right away. Avoid discolored or blemished lotus root. It is good for stir-
fries, grilling , frying, and steaming.
MA-KONBU This giant kelp is valued by restaurants for the clear dashiit produces .
MAITAKE [HEN-OF-THE- These frilly wide-spanning mushrooms are lovely sauteed in butter and
WOODS MUSHROOM) sake, or fried as tempura.
MAME MISO This misois fermented using soybean koji. Dark and deeply flavored,
[SOYBEAN MISO] soybean misomakes rich winter broths, and is a good candidate for
mixing with lighter misovarieties to add overall complexity. Hatchomiso is
a type of soybean misomade in Aichi prefecture in central-eastern japan
and is weighted with massive rocks for two and a half years, to promote
fermentation and intensity of flavor.
MATSUTAKE These mushrooms , like truffles, are rare and thus quite expensive. Grill
[PINE MUSHROOM) matsutakebefore adding to soup or rice dishes.
MAYONNAISE Japanese mayonnaise is similar to the French one, though is slightly

sweeter. Matsuda Mayonnaise injapan makes a quality commercial version,
and you can always make your own (page 32). Use carefully sourced, very
fresh eggs .
MI KAN These are small tangerines , also called clementines in the West.
MIRIN An alcohol fermented from glutinous rice, rice koji, and spring water, mirin
is used to sweeten and season. The best one available, by Mikawa Mirin,
is a deeply burnished syrup-like liquid-the perfect agent for combining
with artisanal soy sauce, miso, or rice vinegar to mellow their salty or sour
flavors. Aji no Haha is a worthy substitute. Due to import restrictions on
alcohol in some countries, Aji no Haha contains salt, so adjust accordingly.
MISO Miso is fermented soybean paste used widely injapanese cooking. Steamed
soybeans are mixed with salt and a koji spore-innoculated agent such as
rice, barley, or soybean then (traditionally) packed into cedar barrels,
weighted , and left to ferment over the course of at least one summer
and up to two and a half years to produce a salty , nuanced paste used in
marinating and pickling, as well as for seasoning soups, stir-fries , and
sauces . There are five main types of miso: shiro, inaka,genmai, mugi, and mame.
The term "red miso" is a generic category that most often refers to the
darker soybean or hatcho miso, but can also include barley and brown rice
miso. Recommended brands are: YamakiJozo inJapan; South River, Miso
Master, andjorinji in the United States; Clearspring, Holland & Barrett,
and Miso Tasty repackage and sell organicjapanese miso in the United
Kingdom. And in Australia, Chefs Armoury carries Japanese misoonline,
Spiral Foods repackages and sells Japanese miso, and Meru Miso produces
its own misoin-house. Urban Hippie in New Zealand also produces its
own misoand Ceres Organics repackages and sells Japanese miso.
434 GLOSSARY
MITSUBA This is a lovely spring herb; cress will do in a pinch if a substitute is
needed.
MOCHI Mochi is steamed glutinous rice that is pounded-traditionally in an usu

[hollow tree trunk)-until smooth and sticky. MostJapanese no longer
follow this practice and instead purchase their mochi. Fresh mochiis available
at sweet shops during theJapanese New Year, while dried mochiis sold year-
round in supermarkets. You can slip dried mochiinto soups and heat until
it is gooey.
MOCHlKO [POWDERED This flour is used to make various Japanese sweets.

GLUTINOUS RICE FLOUR)
MOMENDOFU Otherwise known as "'cotton-style tofu" and thus called for the muslin
markings that score the surface , momendofais made by stirring nigari into hot
soy milk, which is then poured into muslin cloth-lined molds , wrapped,
and weighted until set. It is the most common form of tofu eaten in Japan .
Soft and custard-like , it must be eaten within one week of preparation.
Use momendofafor dressed dishes, salads , soups , and one-pot dishes. If you
cannot find momendofa,substitute the best quality, freshest , not-firm type
of tofu available; most likely labeled as "soft tofu".
MOYASHI These creamy white 2-inch (5 cm) long crunchy sprouts about the same
[MUNG BEAN SPROUTS) diameter as linguini , are sold in plastic bags in the refrigerated vegetable
section . Bean sprouts add crunch to salads and stir-fries. Soybean sprouts
can be substituted, but they are at least twice as long as mung bean sprouts,
so should be cut in half or thirds before using .
MUG! MISO This soybean miso is fermented using barley koji. Soft and luscious, it is
[BARLEY MISO) particularly good in simmered dishes , but absolutely delicious in just about
anything . It is highly favored in Western Europe-perhaps because it goes
so well with olive oil.
MUSTARD Used in mustard pickling, and mixed with water as a condiment for Miso
Oden (page 364), Simmered Pork Belly (page 146) , and Okonomiyaki
(page 272) .
MYOGA A hauntingly bitter, bright rhizome related to ginger, myogacomes out

in mid to late summer and is used in soups , salads, and as a garnish for
sashimi.
NAGA IMO This elongated or branched tuber of an invasive vine is used raw or
[MOUNTAIN YAM) steamed. Although no longer as common as a binding agent in current
day Japan , it adds subtle flavor to fried foods and gives them an appealing
spongy consistency. Nagaimo has tan-colored skin with small hair-like tufts
jutting out from the "eyes" dotting its surface. The flesh causes your skin to
itch , so wash your hands and forearms with hot water and soap immediately
after grating, or use kitchen gloves to avoid direct contact.
NAMEKO Naturally slippery earthy-flavored mushrooms that grow in clusters and are
quite perishable as the caps have a slight viscocity on the surface.
NANO HANA Similar to broccoli rabe (rapini), though perhaps softer and with more
[FLOWERING BRASSICA) flowers and buds , nanohanaworks well prepared as a dressed dish (aemono,
page 58).
435 GLOSSARY
NARUTO This log-shaped pink-and-white, spiral-patterned steamed fish paste
product ,is similar to kamaboko. A diagonal thin slice is commonly added to
rameninJapan .
NATSUMIKAN A large, mildly sour , orange-like citrus with thick skin, eaten as is, or
sectioned for dressed dishes and salads. Its juice can be used in dressings .
NATTO These delightfully slimy , fermented soybeans are most commonly eaten for
breakfast. Although frozen nattofrom large Japanese food companies is avail -
able abroad , the better choice is to look for local suppliers, such as Megumi
Natto (Sebastopol, California) and Natto du Dragon (Draguignan, France).
NEGI A naturally slippery, mild leek - like onion, which becomes meltingly soft
[JAPANESE "LEEKS "] when simmered or steamed . It is sometimes called Welsh onion in Europe.
If you cannot find negi, substitute fat scallions, young spring onions, or
large French shallots with greens attached.
NI GARI The liquid that remains after all the salt solids have been extracted from
purified sea water during the salt-making process. Nigari is used as a
coagulant when making tofu.
NIRA [GARLIC CHIVES] This is a garlicky scallion-like allium that is both pungent and indescribable .
NOBIRU Ths small wild shallot reseeds in the spring near water faucets and stream
banks. Use the tops as you would chives, and the bulbs as a substitute for
raw chopped negior asatsuki.The bulbs are also delicious dipped in misoand
served with a cold beer.
NORI While in the past , nori was sun-dried to achieve its papery texture , these days
most nori seaweed (!aver) is harvested and pressed through hot rollers to
form the green-black sheets used for wrapping rice balls and sushi .
OKARA Okara is the soybean solids that are the by-product of making soy milk.
[SOYBEAN PULP] InJapanese markets it's available fresh , frozen, or dried.
OKONOMIYAKI Literally means "to grill whatever you like , " in this case, in a pancake.
Vegetables, meats , seafood, or a combination , are bound together with a
fairly thin batter and fried on a pan or griddle . The cooking term "yaki"
has its roots in cooking with fire, so can loosely apply to dishes cooked in
the oven , on the stove, or on the grill (barbecue).
OLIVE OIL Olives, mainly Spanish varieties, have grown in southernJapan, in

Kanagawa prefecture and the island of Shodoshima, since the early 1900s.
The bestJapanese olive oils, such as Takao Farm and Olive no Mori, have
won awards in prestigious United States olive oil competitions, and are
mildly spicy , balanced, and perfectly suited for Japanese dishes. Use olive
oil made from similar olives such as frantoio.
OSHI MUGI This machine-flattened barley is added to rice while cooking to give
[FLATTENED BARLEY] texture.
OTACHIBANA This thick-skinned native Japanese grapefruit boasts exquisite floral notes.
PANKO Try to seek out organic panko made by Ohsawa , since it has a pebbly-
[AIR-DRIED rather than flaky-texture , which seems to adhere better to what you are
BREADCRUMBS] frying , and to give a bit more substance to what your are mixing it into.
Otherwise, make your own , Preheat the oven to 300 °F (150°C / Gas Mark 4).
Grate a baguette in the food processor fitted with a grating blade. >>
GLOSSARY
Spread a ½-inch (12 mm) layer on a rimmed baking sheet and bake ,
12-15 minutes, stirring every 4 minutes , until the breadcrumbs are dry
to the touch but not browned.
PEANUTS Peanuts are grown in various pockets all over Japan and are eaten by
farming families during tea breaks. Although not commonly used today in
Japanese home kitchens, peanuts appear in several dishes in this book .
PERSIMMONS Astringent persimmons (called "hachiya" in the United States) are often
elongated and are used for making pickles and for air-drying. Non-
astringent persimmons (called "fuyu " in the United States and Sharon
fruit in the United Kingdom) are round and hard, and are eaten for
dessert or snack. They are also lovely in salads and dressed dishes.
PIMAN This small , thin - skinned Japanese green pepper can be substituted with
small Western green peppers or small, mild poblanos.
PONZU At its best , ponzu is a high-quality soy sauce beautifully flavored with a
balance of several different Japanese citrus (although traditionally only
daidai; see page 429) and dashielements (konbu, katsuobushi). The citrus
should interplay well with the deeply fermented soy sauce. Commonly used
to season nabe[one-pot dishes] , ponzu can also be used in equal parts with
an elegant sesame oil (Wadaman ; see page 13) or olive oil for a delicious
salad dressing . Watch out for lower quality ponzu, which contains additives
and MSG .
POTATO STARCH This is a commonly used ingredient , useful for dusting foods that will be
fried, or to thicken broths to a silky-smooth consistency.
RAKKYO These multiplying onions come out in early summer and are made
into pickles.
RAUSU KONBU Gathered in a tiny area at the tip of the Shiretoko Peninsula of Hokkaido,
Rousukonbuyields a yellow-hued, fragrant broth .
RAYU Toasted sesame oil infused with dried red chilejapones, garlic , sesame seeds
and katsuobushi
. It adds heat to ramenandgyoza (page 431) dipping sauces.
RICE VINEGAR Made traditionally , junmai su (100 percent rice vinegar) is fermented
from in-house brewed sake. There are very few vinegar companies still
doing this in Japan, notably: Iio Jozo, Sennari, and Ohyama. This
vinegar is beautifully soft and fragrant, and should be a mainstay in any
well-stocked kitchen. It also pairs well with olive oil , and can be used for
Western culinary applications. Avoid the acrid mass-produced versions
that are made from ethyl alcohol and contain a fraction of the rice of
a true junmai su.
RISHIRI KONBU Harvested on Rishiri Island off the northwest coast of Hokkaido, Rishiri
konbu makes a deeply flavored broth.
SAKE Also known as "nihon shu," Uapanese alcohol], sake, as we know it in the
West, is an alcohol fermented from rice koji and water. Sake is made all over
Japan except in Kagoshima prefecture and the island of Okinawa.
437 GLOSSARY
SAKURA EBI Small dried larval shrimp (prawn s) that are delicious in stir-fries,
okonomjyaki,and fritters. If possible , use Japane se-sourced sakuraebi.
SALT Japanese artisanal sea salt production came to a standstill during the
government salt monopoly that spanned ninety years from 1907 to 1997.
Once the monopoly ended, the production r o se up from the ashes with
extremely passionate young artisans dedicated to creating delicious salt
using a wide range of creative methods. Arguably some of the best salt in
the world is produced in Japan , Wajima no Kaien, available through
Eno Fine Wine, is ajapanese fleur de sel reminiscent of the best Trapani
salts from Sicily.
SALTED RED SHISO Red shisoleaves are packed in salt and thus preserved. Note that the majority
of commercial varieties contains MSG and preservatives.
SANSHO LEAVES These tiny leaves from the Japanese prickly ash tree are bright and pung ent
in the spring (the flavor is lost by summer), and are commonly used to
garnish bamboo shoots. The same plant also produces a spicy berry
(see SANSHO PEPPER , below).
SANSHO PEPPER AlongwithytLsu (page 443) , sanshois one of the two most important native
finishing flavors. Sanshois grown commercially in Wakayama prefecture, in
southernJapan. Due to difficult cultivation (the trees are planted on steep
hillsides), there is a shortage of young people taking over from the older
generation, so Japanese sanshoharvesting and production are at risk. A
relative of Sichuan pepper, san.shois tongue numbing and a little goes a long
way. (The leaves of the sanshoplant are eaten in the spring; see SANSHO
LEAVES , above.)
SESAME OIL Sadly, most of the readily available sesame oils are poorly made and
roasted to an unpleasantly strong point. Wadaman in Osaka is arguably the
most skillful sesame roaster in the world, and their incredible products
are slowly becoming available abroad (primarily the United States and
Australia). There are three colors of sesame seeds and those seeds are each
a different variety of sesame, which has its own unique characteristics:
black, gold, and white.
SE SAM E O I L, BL AC K , Softly warm , with a slightly musty

overtone , black sesame oil enhances beef dishes and chocolate desserts.
SESAME OIL, GOLD, Made from the most common sesame

seed grown and used in Japan , gold sesame oil can be lightly roasted
for a subtly warm profile or more deeply roasted for a pleasantly (but
not overly) toasted profile .
S E SAM E O I L, WHITE , Light, bright, elegant , white sesame

oil is lovely on white fish sashimi, tofu , and salad.
SESAME SEEDS Freshness, roasting skill, and careful sorting differentiate the best seeds
from the run of the mill . There are three colors of sesame seeds, black,
gold , and white-they come from distinct plants.
SESAME SEEDS, BLACK, Prized for their color and subtle

flavor , black sesame seeds are particularly versatile and pretty on green
vegetables.
SESAME SEEDS , GOLD, Full-flavored, good for miso

treatments and country - style dishes, especially in easternJapan
in Kanto. >>
GLOSSARY
SESAME SEEDS , WHITE: Pretty, brightseedswithagentle
sesame fragrance that goes well with spring vegetables. Used extensively
in western Japan in Kansai, where light colors and flavors are valued.
SERI This curly, peppery spring herb grows near water and is particularly good
[JAPANESE WILD PARSLEY] with eggs.
SHICHIMI TOGARASHI Literally, ''seven-taste chile , " this seasoning is a blend of seven or more
spices: dried red chilejapones, sanshopepper, dried tangerine oryuzu peel,
dried ginger, green nori, hemp seeds, and white and black sesame seeds.
Use in grilling or as garnish. The short name of this powder
0
is shichimi."
SHIITAKE This is the most commonly used mushroom in Japan (both fresh and
dried). Look for fresh shiitokewith dusky brown caps and deep fissures
etched in the surface and avoid any with wet looking caps. Shiitokeare grown
on logs in forests all over Japan. For dried shiitoke, there are two main
varieties: donko, which are smaller with thick caps; and koushin,which are
wider, thinner, and darker. Though shiitakeare easy to air-dry at home if
you have sunny weather, dried shiitakeare readily available in stores locally
and abroad. Try to find Japanese-grown dried shiitakewith dusty-brown
cracked tops. Reconstitute by covering with boiling water and soaking for
30 minutes.
SHIMEJ I Cultivated, extremely versatile mild mushrooms that also grow in the
forests (hon shimeji), shimejigrow in clusters , so they are connected at their
base and should be pulled apart before braising or simmering.
SHIM! DAIKON Freeze-dried daikonis produced by leaving peeled daikonoutside (hung from
the eaves) for one or two months in snowy areas of Japan, such as Iwate
prefecture in northern Japan .
SHIRATAKI NOODLES Found in the refrigerated section or Asian ingredients section of a market,
these white noodles made from kon'!Yakuare essential for Suk_iyaki
(page 370)
and other simmered dishes , as well as some salads and stir-fries . Do not
substitute the tofu shiratakifound recently in the United States, however,
The Angel Hair made by Miracle Noodle Pasta company , is available online
and in natural foods stores - this is essentially like the shiratakiused in Japan.
SHIRO MISO This soybean misois quick - fermented for a few months using a high
[WHITE MISO] proportion of white rice koji to soybeans. It is more sweet than salty and is
good for adding a gentle misoflavoring to vegetable dishes.
SHIRO SHOYU This extremely pale, almost clear , soy sauce is used primarily in the Kansai
area in WesternJapan. Due to the high percentage of wheat used to make
it, shirosh'!Yuhas a fairly pronounced nose that can be off-putting. Shiroshqyu
makes up only a tiny amount of the soy sauce production inJapan .
High-end Kansai restaurants use the best artisanal shirosh'!Yu,while mid -
or low-range shiro sh~u seems to be making its way into restaurant kitchens
outside of Japan.
SHI SO Shiso'saromatic , triangular green or red leaves appear from midsummer

[PERILLA] through midautumn. Shiso goes well with summer vegetables, such as
tomatoes, eggplants, and cucumbers. If you plant seeds in your garden ,
they should faithfully reseed each year.
439 GLOSSARY
SHISO POWDER This bright, almost sumac-like (but much livelier) powder is made by
dipping red shisoleaves in umesu [sour plum "vinegar "] and sun-drying,
then repeating the process two more times . After this, the dried leaves are
pulverized and mixed with excellent Japanese sea salt and the resulting
seasoning is sprinkled on mayonnaise-based salads, rice , or tofu .
SHOCHU A fermented and distilled alcohol made from sweet potatoes, rice, brown
sugar, barley, chestnuts , or any number of other ingredients, shochu
originated in Kagoshima prefecture.
SHOTTSURU This fish sauce is produced in Akita prefecture in northernJapan from hata
hata [sandfish] or sardines.
SHOYU A,, this is the most essentialJapanese seasoning, try to get the best one
[SOY SAUCE] available . In its best artisanal form, sh'?Yuis produced from organic Japanese
soybeans and roasted cracked wheat inoculated with koji spores (Aspergillus
It is then mixed with Japanese sea salt and spring water, and fermented
ory;:p.e).
in cedar barrels over two summers-for a total of at least one and a half
years-before being pressed into a dark , deeply flavored salty liquid. Such
sh'?J'uonly represents .005 percent of the total Japanese sh'?J'u
production. The
cheapest , and most common , version is made from defatted soybean grits
(the by-product of pressing soybeans for oil), and is fermented in an artificial
"summer" environment for about three months in steel tanks. Recommended
brands available in the United States : Yamakijozo (TheJapanese Pantry),
Yamaroku Shoyu (The Gourmet Import Shop), Blue Grass Soy Sauce (online
and in retail shops). In the United Kingdom , Australia, and New Zealand,
all of the better soy sauces are Japanese made , either packaged inJapan or
repackaged by the seller in each different country: Clearspring in the United
Kingdom; Fino Foods (Yamakijozo), Chefs Armoury , and Spiral Foods in
Australia; and Ceres Organics in New Zealand.
SHUNGIKU Bitter greens essential for suk_iyaki

, chrysanthemum also balances out other
[EDIBLE richly flavored one-pot (page 348) and dressed dishes (page 59). If not
CHRYSANTHEMUM] available , substitute another bitter green such mustard.
SILKEN -STYLE TO FU Soy milk and nigariare heated together , pour ed into molds , and weighted
until set. Slightly smoother and more slippery and delicate than cotton
tofu, silken tofu is good in composed salads and on its own garnished with
chopped scallions (spring onions) and grated ginger.
SOBA These noodles are made from IOO percent buckwheat flour or a
combination of a high percentage of buckwheat and a small percentage
of wheat.
SOMEN These hand-pulled very fine wheat noodles are often eaten cold.
SOYBEANS Along with rice, soybeans are one of the two most important crops in
Japan. They are the basis for soy sauce , miso, tofu, natto, and many other soy
products consumed daily. Soybeans make excellent additions to soups and
stews as well.
SOY MILK Yamakijozo produces a superb soy milk so rich in protein it can be quickly
turned into soft tofu in a matter of minutes. Their soy milk is starting to
become available in the United States, United Kingdom, Au stralia, and
New Zealand. The closest runner-up is an excellent product from Hodo
Soy in Oakland , California .
440 GLOSSARY
SUDACHI Very small green to yellow citrus with a soft, bright profile, sudachiare good
squeezed into clear soups.
SURUME !KA Air-dried squid produced in snowy-climate areas of Japan , it is classically

used in Matsumae pickles from Hokkaido and is a popular snack with
drinks. Before eating, waft over charcoal or a low flame to soften .
SWEET POTATO Japanese varieties are often white or yellow fleshed with red skin, sweet
potatoes are prepared as tempura, baked whole for a snack, or boiled and
added to salads or stir-fries.
TAKUAN Half-dried daikonpickled in December in salted rice bran with aromatics,

which is purported to have been created several hundred years ago by
Takuan Soho, a Buddhist priest. Takuanis rinsed and sliced before eating
and, while often put in the "unusual taste for foreigners" category, is well
loved by Japanese and non-Japanese alike.
TAMAR! Sh'!Yumade from only soybeans or with a tiny amount of added wheat.
Primarily made in Aichi prefecture, in central eastern Japan, a mere
r.8 percent of the sh'!YuinJapan is tamari . While tamari is a gluten-
free substitute for sh'!Yu,due to low production , it should not be
substituted for sh'!Yuas a blanket solution to gluten-free seasonings for
restaurants. Recommended brand : Ito Shoten, a small-scale artisanal
producer in Aichi prefecture in southeastern Japan, available from The
Japanese Pantry in the United States and from Fino Foods in Australia .
Repackaged Japanese tamari is available from Gold Mine Natural Food
Co. in the United States; Clearspring and Holland & Barrett in the
United Kingdom ; Spiral Foods in Australia; and Ceres Organics in
New Zealand.
TARA NO ME/ These appealingly bitter buds have thick stems from which small, slightly
KOSHI ABURA fuzzy leaves and stems shoot out. They are best deep-fried as tempura, but
are also good steamed and dressed .
TARO These smallish round roots with almost lavender-hued flesh have a brown
fibrous husk-like skin that should be peeled off before simmering.
Alternatively, roast or boil whole and peel afterwards. Eat dipped in salt,
miso, or soy sauce.
TENGUSA This seaweed is boiled and extruded through a wooden press to produce
tokoroten[noodles] . The noodles are then dressed with vinegar and soy sauce
for a refreshing salad.
TOFU Since Japanese tofu is appreciably softer than the tofu sold outside of
Japan, you should ask the company selling the tofu which of their tofu
is closest to momendofuUapanese cotton-style]. If possible , look for tofu
produced by locally grown soybeans (local to the country in which the tofu
is made) , spring water, nigari [a coagulant that is a natural by-product of
the sea salt-making process (as opposed to chemical coagulants)]. and
no other ingredients. Quality fresh tofu is quite difficult to find outside
of Japan, though there are a handful of tofu makers worth seeking out in
the United States: Hodo Soy (Oakland, California) , Sanjose Tofu (San
Jose , California), Meiji Tofu (Gardena, California) , Ota Tofu (Portland ,
Oregon), Aloha Tofu (Hawaii), and Phoenix Bean (Chicago, Illinois). In
the United Kingdom: R&R Tofu (The Tofoo Co., Malton), Paul's Tofu
(Welton Mowbray), and Clean Bean (London). And along with organic
Japanese long-life tofu, Clear Spring carries a wide range of Japanese
organic products-available online. In Australia: Earth Source Foods and
Evergreen Foods. In New Zealand: The Soy Works, Tonzu Tofu, and Bean
Supreme. All are available through mail order.
441 GLOSSARY
TOGARASHI This dried red chilejaponesis used for stir-fries and in pickling .
TOMATOES Fairly pale, slightly underripe tomatoes work best for Japanese dishes ,
because their slight astringency interacts well with Japanese seasonings.
TORORO KONBU Treated with vinegar, then dried and pressed into fine gauze-like sheets ,
this konbu is used as a wrapper for sushi, rice balls, or to add texture and
flavor to certain dishes such as Grilled Natto Pouches (page 259).
TURNIP Commonly pickled or steamed, turnips are an important vegetable in

the Japanese kitchen. Scrub but do not peel, and if possible, leave a small
portion of the green stem ends intact.
UCHIKO FLOUR Technically uchikois buckwheat starch, not flour , used for dusting soba
noodles. Available through Mutual Trading Company in Los Angeles,
California. Substitute potato, corn, or tapioca starch.
UDO A creamy white stalk-like shoot with a soft, slightly bitter taste that comes
out in the spring. Peel before using and if udo is unavailable, substitute
celery.
UME Technically part of the apricot family , ume are toxic when raw, and are often
[SOUR "PLUMS"] pickled, or made into liqueur or jam.
UME PASTE There are only two commercially viable organic ume farmers in Japan.
Yamakijozo (which makes soy sauce , miso, and tofu) has an exclusive
contract with one of the two farmers and thus sells his paste: both the
naturally colored one and the vibrant pink paste made from umeboshipacked
with red shisoleaves . The farmer passes ume through a grinding drum to
mash and blend the ume flesh to a smooth paste, which is a bit easier to use
than hand-chopped umeboshi.
UMEBOSHI Salted , then sun-dried hard sour "plums" (actually belonging to the
apricot family), ume is harvested in mid to late June during the rainy
season, then salted, weighted until the brine rises, and sun-dried for three
days once the weather turns sunny. The umeboshiare then packed in crocks ,
buckets , or bags and left to mellow until the following summer. Umeboshi
improve with age because the saltiness softens as time passes. Use as a filler
for rice balls, in salads, or as a seasoning for steamed fish .
UMESU The salty-sour, fruity brine from salting ume. Although found packaged
0
as plum vinegar," umesu is technically brine . To make it, the ume farmer
clarifies his umesu, removing the natural cloudiness of the homemade
version, and the result is pure deliciousness in a bottle. Use as a bright
substitute for vinegar in special dishes .
USUAGE/ABURA-AGE This is weighted tofu that is thinly sliced and deep-fried twice to form
pouches . The pouches are useful for stuffing or simmering, and are also
used in stir-fries.
442 GLOSSARY
USUKUCHl SHOYU Translated as "light-tasting soy sauce," though not to be confused with the
"lite " (reduced-sodium) soy sauce developed for the US market, usukuchi
sh'!Yucontains more salt and a higher percentage of wheat than koi kuchish'!Yu
(mainstream soy sauce) .
WAKAME Excellent-quality dried wakameis available year-round and is one of the

most useful ingredients to stock in your Japanese pantry. Reconstitute
in cold water for 20 minutes and use in salads or soups. (In Japan, fresh
wakameappears in the markets in the spring and is available into summer.)
WASABI This Japanese "horseradish" should not to be confused with Western

horseradish. If fresh wasabiis available, skip th e tube or powdered wasabi,
since it is primarily made from Western horseradish and is overly hot
without the subtle overtones of real wasabi.Real wasabihas a gentle heat ,
which pleasantly tingles your tongue but does not sting your sinuses. If
fresh wasabiis unavailable, substitute finely grated fresh ginger instead.
Wasabileaves and stems are available through wasabigrowers and are
delicious in soy sauce-flavored dashi.
WASANBON A finely powdered, deep-tan , native Japanese sugar used in high-end

Japanese sweets.
YAKI NORI Ariake Sea ofKyushu,Japan ' s southernmost island, is the area where most
of the prized Japanese nori is produced. lchibanzumi[first harvest] is the
best , and nibanzumi[second harvest] is also excellent and more affordable.
Mediocre nori will have a slightly "off' taste , whereas top-quality nori will be
bright and taste of the sea . Most nori sheets these days are sold toasted , to be
used as is, but they can be crisped up by being passed over an open flame.
YUBA The skin skimmed off the surface of the soy milk in the tofu-making
process, fresh yuba is reminiscent of burrata. Yuba is a delicacy and is a bit
costly. YamakiJozo sellsyuba in small cylindrical packs , while Hodo Soy , an
artisanal producer in Oakland , California, offers three types of beautiful
yuba to chefs in the United States in I-pound (450 g) bags.
YUZU About half the size of a lemon ,yuzu is an intense, low - acid citrus. If you
have ayuzu tree, drop tiny windfall yuzu into clear soups. Only the peel of
green early autumn yuzu is used , while both the greenish - yellow peel and the
juice are used once the fruit matures in late autumn . Closer to spring, as
the juice dries up and the fruit becomes pithy, the yellow peel is used.
YUZU KOSHO An extremely appealing, precious (in that it is produced in small

quantities) , hot condiment , with green and red versions, originating in
Kyushu, Japan ' s southern island. Yuzu (see above) peel is mixed with salt
and fresh chi/ejapones, and packed in crocks to ferment for a month before
jarring. Green yuzu koshois made in the summer , when young green yuzu and
green chiles first appear; whereas red yuzu koshois prepared in the late fall
when the yuzu have turned yellow and the chiles have turned red.
Z UIKI Dried taro stems that need to be reconstituted before using . The stems are
pleasantly chewy and slightly sour and used in dressed dishes as well as in
Taro Stems in Sesame -Vinegar Dressing (page n6). In Japan, fresh zuiki
appear at farm stands in the autumn , and need to be boiled and peeled
before using.
443 GLOSSARY
USEFUL JAPANESE
KITCHEN EQUIPMENT
BAMBOO SKEWERS Used for individual skewered foods such asyakitori or kushiage,bamboo
skewers should soak in water for 30 minutes before using, if the skewered
food will be grilled.
BENRINER Japanese mandoline useful for julienning daikonfor making daikon threads .
Otherwise , not recommended for daily cooking since the slices will be too
fine and too uniform .
CHAWAN Small bowls that hold about I cup (8 fl oz/1150 mi) and are used to serve
rice or soup.
CHAWAN MUSH! CUPS Covered teacups without handles, used for steaming savory egg custards.
DONABE Earthenware casserole used to cook rice and tabletop soups and nabemono
[stews]. Toiro Kitchen is the best source for these gorgeous, practical vessels.
DONBURI Deep soup bowls , useful for serving rice with food arranged on top .
HAN DAI Wide , shallow wooden tub for aerating and incorporating sweetened
vinegar into sushi rice.
HASH I Chopsticks used for eating have pointed ends and can be made from
lacquered or unlacquered wood, bone (rare), or plastic. Japanese
chopsticks generally range in size from 7 to 9 1/2 inches (18 to 24 cm) long.
HOCHO You will need a razor-sharp, fine-bladed Japanese vegetable knife to

[JAPANESE KNIVES] achieve the fine cuts necessary for truly authenticJapanes e food. You
should also own one good sashimi knife and one small debabochofor cutting
through fish and poultry bones .
KATSUOBUSHI KEZURIKI A wooden box , with a planing blade inset inside it, essential for shaving
[KATSUOBUSHI hongarekatsuobushi(page 432).
SHAVING BOX]
MAKI SU Small bamboo mat necessary to roll sushi.
0 RO SH IGANE / O ROSHIKI A sharp-toothed metal or ceramic grating plate, essential for finely
grating root vegetables and rhizomes, such as daikon, mountain yam, ginger,
and wasabi.
SAIBASHI Long (12 ½ inches / 32 cm) wooden chopsticks used for cooking.
SEIMENKI A sturdy cast-iron and brass , standing noodle-rolling ma chine with a

wooden base for added stability. These machines require rolling by hand ,
but are extremely well made and a highly recommended piece of equipment
for making flour - based noodles.
SHAM OJI A paddle made of bamboo, ceramic, wood , or plastic, used for fluffing and
serving rice.
444 GLOSSARY
SHICHIRIN This tabletop charcoal brazier is crafted from diatomaceous earth. Shichirin
are available for purchase online and highly recommended as a splurge for
summer grilling parties in the garden.
SURIBACHI The most useful piece of "equipment" in the traditionaljapanese kitchen,

because it can be used for grinding or pounding any number of foods . It
is a ceramic bowl with grooves etched inside to facilitate grinding with a
surikogi[large wooden pestle] (see below). Get the largest you can find (and
afford)-it will be more practical than the smaller version.
SURIKOGI The wooden pestle used to grind food in the suribachi(see above), a surikogi
by tradition has been made from sansho[prickly ash] boughs for thousands
of years, typically with the bark still on. Recently, however, it has become
increasingly difficult to find surikogimade of sansho. Now they are more
commonly carved from large pieces of wood and are smooth.
TAMAGOYAKI NABE A tin-lined, copper rectangular pan used for Rolled Egg Omelette (page
220). It can be substituted with a nonstick surface rectangular pan .
TAWASHI Essential in the Japanese kitchen , this stiff coconut-fiber brush is used to
scrub root vegetables, eliminating the need for peeling. The "turtle brand"
by the Kamenoko company is the only one to buy.
TEPPO GUSHI These flag-shaped skewers are made out of bamboo and are used for
serving Japanese sweets .
TETSUBASHI Iron chopsticks of different lengths (from hashito saibashi-size), used for
shifting charcoal.
TOFU-ZUKURIKI These hinoki Qapanese cypress] joined corner-box tofu-making kits come
with the cloths and pressing pieces to mold tofu at home. The kits usually
come with nigariand are available online .
TSUKEMONO YOKI This is a Japanese pickle press used for creating quick pickles. It consists of
a round or square plastic container with a top that has a screw mechanism
and a plastic plate. When the container is closed, the plate is screwed down
onto the ingredients to simulate a weighting system.
UCHIWA Flat paper fan , commonly used in the muggy summer months , as well as to
fan embers and cool rice .
URAGOSHI A wooden-framed, fine-mesh sieve used to remove small lumps from egg-
dashimixtures , sesame tofu batters, and for finely pureeing fish paste.
WAN Individual covered bowls of varying sizes , most often used for soups.
WASH! Calligraphy practice sheets that can be folded in half on a diagonal and
[JAPANESE PAPER] used underneath tempurato blot oil.
ZARU A dinner plate-sized, round bamboo basket for draining and serving
noodles.
445 GLOSSARY
JAPANESE CUTTING STYLES
BUTSUGIRI Cross-wise cut 1'/•-inch (3 cm) pieces, mostly for negior chicken , which
would be cut through the bone.
HANGETS U- KIRI Thin or thick half-moon cuts. Cucumbers an d carrots tend to b e thinly
cut , wh ereas daikon, eggplant (aubergine), and tomato are cut thicker.
HANAGIRI A flow er- like beveled cut etched into the top of a shiitakecap. It can b e as
simple as a cross or as elaborate as a chrysanthemum.
HITOK UCH I DAI NI KIRU 1'/•-inch (3 cm) bite-size pieces.
HOSOGIRI Medium julienne of cucumber, po tato , daikon, carrots, burdock , negi, and
green p epp er about 1/a inch (3 mm) wide and 2 inche s (5 cm) long.
HY OS HIGI - KIRI Batonnet s % inch (1 cm) wide and 2 inche s (5 cm) long usually for carrots
and daikon.
ITCHOGIRI Half-rounds 'I• inch (6 mm) thi ck , halv ed to form quarter-rounds

r eminis cent of ginkgo leaves.
KOKUCHI-GIRT Small bite- size cuts.
KUSHIGATA-GIRI "Comb" - shaped cuts re sembling wedges, such as for tomatoes, onions,
and cabbage.
MIJINGlRl Fine dice , mostly for ginger, onions, negi, and carrots.
RANGIRl Triangular chunks made by alternating diagonal cuts in cucumbers,

eggplant (aubergine), potatoes, green peppers , lot us root, and daikon.
SASAGAKI Feather cuts of carrots or burdock cr ea ted by holding the root and finely
slicing around the perimeter starting from the ends, as if shaving a pencil.
SENGIRI Finely julienned, cabbage and ginger cut into 11/• x 1/ 1•-inch (3 cm x 2 mm)
p iec es, and carrots and daikon cut into into 2 x 1/ 1•-inch (5 cm x 2 mm)
pieces.
SOGIGIRI Slices cut at a 45° angle to the cutting b oard.
TANZAKU-GIRI Fine flat str ip cuts for daikonand ca rrots , 1'/• inches (4 cm) long by ¾ inch
(2 cm) wide.
US UGI RI Thin crosswise slices for long, thin vegetable s like burdock and negith at
should be sliced on a diagonal. Other vegetables or aromatics should be
halved lengthwise before thinly slicing crosswise .
WAG I RI Crosswise thick or thin round sli ces , depending on the vegetable and
the recipe.
ZAKUGIRI Greens cut crosswise into 1¾- inch (4 cm) pie ces.
GLOSSARY
INDEX
Page numbers in italicsrefer to illustrations ukamino usugiri: stir-fried negiwith miso 216, 217 mitsubaroot kinpira44
amadashi397 notto with egg and garlic chiv es 46
A dashimakitamago398 potato salad with black sesame 50 , 51
abura miso 208 amanatsu428 quail eggs and chicken balls 36, 37
ocharo-style carrot pickles 322, 323 amatake106, 388 rolled crab and nori omelet 46, 47
achara1J1kt.2 2 anchovies; daikonwith sesame-vinegar 117 seven - spice chicken 52, 53
aemono 20, 30, 58-89 anko 376 shiso-scented misa 39
broccoli and radish salad 74 oh,w 378, 379 shiso-wrapped pan-grilled snapper 48
butterbur buds with grated daikon 61 oonori 4u, 428 ll1ilu-wn1.pped 5Jiisl1ilopcppcn 39
carrot with smashed tofu and sesame 64 apples spicy miso-pickled garlic chicken 52
carrot with smashed tofu and walnuts 80 apple bread 377 spicy stea med carrot stems 31
crispy green beans in sesame 74, 75 steamed apples and sweet potatoes 377 stir - fried fava beans 34, 35
dashi-drenched fiddlehead ferns 62 turnip, komatsuna,scallion , and apple 423 tofu 56, 57
egg yolk-dressed crab and cucumber 70 arame [sea oak] 428 yuba with yutu juice 41
eggp lant in sesame miso78, 79 asatsuki428 y u.us-dressed spinach 44, 4-5
fiddlehead ferns with smashed to fu and asparagus with sesame-vinegar dressing 114, 115 benishoga428
walnut s 84 atsuage428 pickled red ginger fritters 242 , 243
flow ering gr eens in sake-soy 62, 63 misooden364 sardines fried with pickled red ginger 246
ginger-infused greens and vegetables 64, 65 aubergines seeeggplants Benn, Martin 407-11
green bean s with smashed tofu and sesame avocados: natto-topped vege table salad 84, 85 benriner444
80, 81 awa 18 Biwa, Lake 25
greens and chrysant hemum petals with awafo 428 Blankenship.Jamison 417-18
sesame 73 azuki beans 428 bok ,hoy 428
kabocha with smashed tofu 86 manju 385 ginger - infused greens and ,·egetables 64, 65
nameko mushrooms with grated daikon 67 oh,w 378, 379 simmere d shiitakeand sweet potato 124, 125
nolto-topped vegetable salad 84, 85 sekihan298, 299 stir-fried negiwith miso216, 217
new potatoes with sour plum and orange 73 yoka, 386 bonito sashimi with butterbur miso and shiso400
okarapotato salad 87 La Bonne Table 393
sauteed onions with natto 66 B botanmachi378, 379
sesame - dressed greens and carrots 76, 77 bacon boudin noir and nara;::uke stuffed roasted shiitake
spinac h and chrysant hemum petals in creamy napa cabbage 136 393
soy dashi61 foil-grilled garlic 258 bo,whi 405
spinach and enoh with smashed tofu 82, 83 okanamjyaki417 Bracket, Sylvan Mishima 422-4
spinach with walnuts 67 spinach gratin 256 , 257 bread, apple 377
stamina salad 66 steamed onions with ba con 194 brewing methods 22
steamed eggplant with sesame 76 bamboo shoots broad beans see fava (broad) beans
summer chicken salad 72 bamboo rice 300, 301 broccoli
summer salad with dumplings 68 bamboo shoot with katsuabushi151 broccoli and radish salad 74
sweet miso-dressed negiwith clams 72 scattered sus hi 292 creamy napa cabbage 136
sweet potato with lemon dressing 68, 69 bamboo skewers 444 broccoli rabe; flowering greens in sake-soy
tofu flavored six ways 88, 89 bamboo steamers 186 62, 63
ume-dressed turnips 70, 71 beef broths
walnut-dressed chrysanthemum petals 78 eggp lant with tomato meat sauce 50 clam broth 158
agar agar 376, 432 Italian-style soybeans 138 clear fish broth 160
Age of Change 22 mi.so-infused meat and vegetables 215 hot noodl e broth 157
agedashitofu 232, 233 miso-simmered beef and burdock 150 Japanese chicken broth 154, 160
agedashitofu with grated daikon232 quick teppan-yaki270 kabu, awasemisobroth, chrysanthemum,
agedashitofu with pickled and fresh ramson rice croquettes 248, 249 and nori 410
412 sakurascented roast beef 392 noodle dipping broth 157
agemono226-51 silky napa cabbage layered with ground meat tempuradipping broth 157
ogedashitofu 232, 233 205 seealsodashi
agedashitofu with grated daikon232 soy-simmered b ee f and burdock 148, 149 Buddhism 19, 21, 25
curry - seasoned fried mackerel 246, 247 stir-fried egg with beef 223 bukkakeudon 422
dashi-simmered deep-friedganmodoki 234 sukjyaki370, 371 burdock [gobo] 430-1
deep-fried chicken nuggets 229 tepPan-yaki270, _271 burd ock in sesame-vinegar 117
deep-fried daikonwith black sesame 230, 231 beer-pickled daikon345 burdock salad 41
deep-fried eggplant in dashi240, 24,l before the meal 28-57, 60 burdock with cod roe 42, 43
eggplant fritters 240 burdock salad 41 chicken and vegetable stuffe d kabocha
fried chicken meatballs with nori 251 burdock with cod roe 42, 43 200,201
fried dried persimmons 230 butter ed negi 31 country miso soup 168
fried eggplant with sour plum 238 cabbage with hot sesame vinegar 48, 49 kenchinjiru171
fried kabocha balls 235 chicken and mushroom terrine 54 matsutake,burdock, and Kyoto ca rrot kinpira
fried miso rice balls 244 daikanand tuna salad 32 403
kabocha croquettes 236, 237 daikonpeel kinpira32, 33 misoand mackerel chankonabe368
le ek fritters 244, 245 daikanwith sweet miso40 miso-s imm ered beef and burdock 150
lotus "croquettes" 242 dashiegg with garlic ch ives 42 New Year soup 170
pan-fried fish balls 251 eggplant with smashed edamame40 "raccoon dog " soup 172, 173
pickled red ginger fritters 242, 24,3 eggplant with tomato meat sauce 50 salad sushi 293
rice croquettes 248, 249 ginkgo nuts on skewers 31 simmered burdock with walnuts 138
salmon croq uettes 250 gomodofo54, 55 simm ered chicken and vegetables 140, 141
sard ines fried with pickled red ginger 246 green pepper miso39 soy-simmered beef and burdock 148, 149
soybean croqu ettes 250 kelp - and vin egar-wicked nanahana38 stir-fried burd ock and carrot 218
spicy fried chicken meatballs 229 kelp-wicked nanahana38 stir-fri~d burdock with tofu 209
summer vegetable tempura238 , 239 kanbuwith umebashi34 stir-fried vegetables with burdock 209
agricultural revolution 18-19 konbu-wrapped kan'}_Yaku 34 sweet potato country soup 168, 169
Ainu 24 kon19akuwith poppy seeds 36 taro root co untry sou p 182
INDEX
wild boar mi.sonabe369 dressing 112, 113 one-pot pork and napa cabbage 366, 367
buri ceramics 23 oyster and misonabe 354
buridaikon 144 chatsai428-9 oyster nabe 355
simmered daikonand yellowtail collar 145 chankonabe sukjyaki370, 371
bueugiri446 misoand mackerel chankonabe368 sumo-style chicken soup 155
butter sardine chankonabe352 chrysanthemum petals
buttered negi 31 c.hawan444 burdock in sesame-vinegar n7
clams, fava beans, and capers steamed in c.hawanmushi186, 429 chrysanthemum petal - steamed fish balls
dashi413 chawanmushi, uni, shikuwasa,and sobacha409 194,195
butterbur buds [foki] 430 soy milk chawanmushi190, 191 greens and chrysanthemum petals with
bonito sashimi with butterbur misoand shiso chawanmushipots 444 sesame 73
400 cheese: eggplant with tomato meat sauce 50 spinach and chrysanthemum petals in
butterbur buds with grated Jaikon 61 chestnuts soyJashi61
chestnut ice cream 395-6 spinach and enokiwith smashed tofu 82, 83
C persimmon and dailronwith chestnut miso399 walnut-dressed chrysanthemum petals 78
cabbage 186 chicken 18 Chuko Ramen 417
cabbage mi.sosoup 162 chicken and mushroom terrine 54 chw:.arato 429
cabbage with hot sesame vinegar 48, 49 chicken and seafood nabe351 citrus fruit 18
creamy napa cabbage 136 chicken and vegetable mixed rice 310, 311 citrus- and ume- dressed daikonand sardines
creamy soy milk snapper 137 chicken and vegetable stuffed kabocha 102
Joshi-simmered cabbag e rolls 134, 135 200,201 grilled shiitake,citrus soy,yu.tU, and oba 408
kenchintofu-stuffed napa cabbage 130 chick en terrine 255 clams
layered napa cabbage 204 chilled chicken salad with mi.sodressing 420 clam broth 158
layered napa cabbage and spinach 187 cold steamed chicken 198, 199 clam broth soup 158, 159
layered napa cabbage with green beans 203 daikonwith soy-simmered chicken 142 clams, fava beans , and capers steamed in
misoand mackerel chankonabe368 deep-fried chicken nuggets 229 doshibutter 413
misochicken balls and napa soup 363 fried chicken meatballs with nori 251 eggplant soup, snapper, sea grapes, and
napa cabbage and spinach rolls 187 ginger-soy chicken rice bowl 314 myoga394
napa cabbage rolls simmered in tomato 131 grilled sesame chicken 266 one-pot chicken with udon 278
okonomjyaki272, 273, 417 Japanese chicken broth 154, 160 sweet miso-dressed negiwith dams 72
one-pot pork and napa cabbage 366, 367 Japanese chicken noodle soup 287 cocoa powder: soy milk and cocoa gelee
overnight pickled napa cabbage 336 layered napa cabbage with green beans 203 382, 383
oyster nabe355 milky chicken and vegetable soup 351 cod
pork and cabbage nabe358 misochicken balls and napa soup 363 garlic chive soup 174, 175
qui.ck mitutoh 360, 361 misooden364 miso-marinated grilled cod 268
quick salt-pickled cabbage 338 negima415 sour plum-steamed cod 196 , 197
rice bran - pickled cabbage 338 one-pot chicken with uJon 278 cod roe
salt-fermented napa cabbage 339 Osakakitsunesoba287 burdock with cod roe 42, 43
sardine c.hankonabe352 (!YOkodon 316 shiratakinoodles with cod roe 98
silky napa cabbage layered with ground meat quail eggs and chicken balls 36, 37 cold prevention soup 180, 181
205 quick mitufoki, 360, 361 corn, grilled 415
spicy napa cabbage pickles 336, 337 romen 284, 285 country misosoup 168
steamed onions with bacon 194 rice bowl with ground meat 304 court culture 20
stewed chicken and vegetables 362 savory egg custard pots 192, 193 crab
sumo - style chicken soup 155 sesame - dressed greens and carrots 76, 77 crab and egg yolk rice bowl with oonori salt
sweet potato with lemon dressing 68, 69 seven - spice chicken 52, 53 and kinome411
teppan::;aki
270, 271 shiratakibundles 128 crab and misonabe358, 359
tofu flavored six ways 88, 89 simmered chicken and vegetables 140, 14-1 crab and yuba misonabe406
tofu-stuffed cabbage rolls 132, 133 soy milk chawanmushi190, 191 crab "miso" 406
cake, carrot 388, 389 spicy fried chicken meatballs 229 egg yolk-dressed crab and cucumber 70
canola (rapeseed) oil 60, 428 spicy miso- pickled garlic chicken 52 foil - wrapped crab and eggplant 258
capers: clams, fava beans, and capers steamed steamed grated turnip 202 one-pot seafood uJon 277
in Joshibutter 413 steamed mountain yam with nori 196 pressed sushi 296
caramel: green tangerine caramel sauce 395-6 stewed chicken and vegetables 362 rolled crab and nori omelet 46, 47
carrots 122 stir-fried chicken and garlic chives silky winter melon 137
achora-style carrot pickles 322, 323 224, 225 vinegared crab and cucumber with yutu
carrot cake 388, 389 stir-fried chicken and vegetables 224 II0,111
carrot soup 161 stuffed kabocha 198 vinegared cucumber and crab with ginger 110
carrot with smashed tofu and sesame 64 summer chicken salad 72 crepes: figs, crepes, chestnut ice cream,
carrot with smashed tofu and walnuts 80 sumo-style chicken soup 155 tangerine caramel 395-6
matsutake,burdock, and Kyoto carrot kinpira sweet potato country soup 168, 169 crispy gre en beans in sesame 74, 75
4-03 taro rice 308 croquettes 22
misosoup with grated carrot 162, 163 tsukune.4,14 Joshi-simmered deep-fried ganmoJoki234
salt-fermented summer vegetables uJo and chicken steamed with sour plums 192 kabocha croquettes 236, 237
328 , 329 udonwith chicken and negi 278 lotus "croquettes" 242
sardines with carrot - tomato sauce 210, 211 yakitori 266, 267 rice croquettes 248, 24-9
sesame-dressed greens and carrots 76, 77 chicken livers: sauteed vegdables with salmon croquettes 250
spicy steamed carrot stems 31 chicken liver and tofu 215 soybean croquettes 250
spinach with walnuts 67 chikuwaUapanese fish sausage] 429 cucumbers (Japanese cucumbers) 429
stamina salad 66 leek fritters 244, 24-5 cucumber and bean sprouts in
stir - fried burdock and carrot 218 oden 150 sesame-vinegar 114
sweet potato with lemon dressing 68, 69 chiles cucumber and shiitakein sesame - vinegar
tricolored vegetables in sesame-vinegar green chile relish 333 118,119
dressing II2, 113 island somenwith red chi.le and garlic chives egg yolk-dressed crab and cucumber 70
caste/a22 280, 281 9'urimomi116
cauliflower c.hirimenjako429 mustard-dressed squid and cucumber
chm.vanmushi, uni, shikuwasa,and sobac.ha409 chopsticks 20, 30 100, IOI
creamy napa cabbage 136 chrysanthemum greens [shungikulkikuna] quick shiba.tuke326, 327
celery ' ginger-infused greens and vegetables 64, 65 salt-fermented summer vegetables
carrot soup r61 herring and chrysanthemum soup 176 328,329
tricolored vegetables in sesame-vinegar misochicken balls and napa soup 363 sea pineapple and cucumber in
449 INDEX
sweet vinegar 93 soy - pickled daikon405 ume-dressed turnips 70 , 71
shiratakinoodles with cod roe 98 soy sauce-pickled doikon 345 walnut-dressed chrysanthemum petals 78
shiso-perfumed rice 302, 303 soy sauce-simmered daikonand pork 145 dressings
shiso-wrapped pan-grilled snapper 48 stamina salad 66 lemon dressing 68, 69
soy sauce-pickled cucumbers 324, 325 stir-fried chicken and vegetables 224 misodressing 420
squid and jellyfish with mustard vinegar 100 sweet potato country soup 168, 169 sesame-vinegar dressing II2, 113, 114,
stamina salad 66 taro root country soup 182 115,116
summer chicken salad 72 tricolored vegetables in sesame-vinegar duck: grilled duck breast with turnip 268, 269
summer salad with dumplings 68 dressing IJ2, 113 duck eggs: chawanmushi, uni, shikuwma,and
sweet potato with lemon dressing 68, 69 vinegared mackerel with daikon96 sobacha409
vinegared crab and cucumber with JU{U daikonleaves dumplings
no, u1 dried daikonleaf fried rice 312, 313 hittsumi277
vinegared cucumber and crab with ginger 110 dried daikonleaf porridge 314 suigyo,to279
curry powder 429 quick pickled doikonwith daikonleaves24,3, 342 summer salad with dumplings 68
curry-seasoned fried mack erel 246, 247 rice with daikongreens 296
curry-pickled daikon341 daikonsprouts [kaiworedaikan]432 E
curry rice 297 natto-topped vegetable salad 84, 85 Early Modern Age 22-3
custards 186, 429 summer salad with dumplings 68 earthenware pots 18, 20
chawanmushi186, 429 doikonthreads [kiriboshidaikon]432 edamame
chawanmushi, uni, shikuwasa,and sobacha409 dried daikanand dri ed squid in vinegar 118 eggplant with smashed edamame40
savory egg custard pots 192, 193 simmered dried daikonthreads 123 mountain yam with edamameand nori 94, 95
soy milk chawanmushi190, 191 dairy 25 ahogi378, 379
steamed egg custard pots 190 druhi18, 22, 122, 154, 276, 397, 429 steamed mountain yam with nori 196
cutting styles 446 amadashi397 tofu flavored six ways 88, 89
clams, fava beans, and capers steamed in Edo Pedod (1600-1868) 22-3
D dashibutter 413 Edo si.ckness 24
daidai429 Joshi-drenched fiddlehead ferns 62 eggplants (aubergines) 429
daikan92, 122, 429, 432, 439 dashiegg with garlic chives 42 deep-fried eggplant in dashi240 , 241
agedashitofu with grated daikon232 dashimaki tamago398 eggplant and peanut soup 166, 167
beer-pickled daikon345 dashishtz1u429 eggplant fritters 240
buridaikon144 dashi- simmered cabbage rolls 134, 135 eggplant in sesame miso 78, 79
butterbur buds with grated daikon61 Joshi- simmered deep - friedganmodoki 234 eggplant soup, snapper, sea grapes, and "'.!)'oga
citrus- and ume-dressed daikonand sardines Joshi-simmered taro root 126, 127 394
102 Joshi- steamed eggs with spinach T26 eggplant with smashed edamame40
country misosoup 168 deep-fried eggplant in dashi240, 241 eggplant with tomato meat sauce 50
curry-pickled daikon341 irikodashi157 fish sauce-pickled eggplant 326
daikonand dried persimmon with mitsuba107 karaidashi398 foil-wrapped crab and eggplant 258
daikonand pork soboronabe369 kinokogohan 421 fried eggplant with sour plum 238
daikonand tuna salad 32 konbudashi156 Genghis Khan 365
daikonpeel kinpiro32, 33 seealso kat.suobushi
doshi;konbu dashi ginger-infused greens and vegetables 64, 65
daikonshiokoji"steak" with gingered nori sauce dipping broth , noodle 157 grilled eggplant miso soup 164
402 donabe351, 444 miso-fried eggplant and green pepper
daikonwith sesame-vinegar n7 donburi444 218, 219
daikonwith soy- simmered chicken 142 donko [thick - capped dried shiitake]439 mustard and vinegar - pickled eggplant 321
daikonwith sweet miso40 simmered shiitokeand sweet potato 124, 125 nasu and shishito kinpira4-20
deep - fried daikonwith black sesam e 230, 231 donuts, Okinawan-style sesame 386, 387 quick mustard-pidled eggplant 324
dried daikonand dried squid in vinegar 118 dress ed 58-89 quick shibaz.uke326 , 327
dried daikanpickled in three-way vinegar 340 broccoli and radish salad 74 salt-fermented summer vegetables 328 , 329
fragrant miso-simmered daikon128, 129 butterbur buds with grated daikon61 steamed eggplant with sesame 76
ginger-infused greens and vegetables 64, 65 carrot with smashed tofu and sesame 64 stir - fried eggplant with ginger and sesame
grated daikonand mushroom soup 180 carrot with smashed tofu and walnuts 80 2IO
grated daikonwith salmon roe 96, 97 crispy gr een beans in sesame 74, 75 summer vegetable tempura238, 239
kenchinjiru171 doshi-drenched fiddlehead ferns 62 sweet miso-grilled eggplant 259
misoand mackerel chankanabe368 egg yolk-dressed crab and cucumber 70 teppan-:,aki270, 271
misaoden 364 eggplant in sesame miso 78, 79 eggs
miso-pickled daikon 340 fiddlehead ferns with smashed tofu and broccoli and radish salad 74
misosoup with grated carrot 162 , 163 walnuts 84 brown rice, nori, and boiled egg 416
namekomushrooms with grated daikon67 flowering greens in sake- soy 62, 63 chawanmushi, uni, shikuwaso,and sobacha409
New Year soup 170 ging er-infused greens and vegetables 64, 65 crab and egg yolk rice bowl with aonori salt
oden 150 green beans with smashed tofu and sesame and kinome4n
overnight pickled napa cabbage 336 Bo, 81 dashiegg with garlic chives 42
oyster nabe355 greens and chrysanthemum petals with dashimakitamaga398
oysters in sweet vinegar withyLLtU98, 99 sesame 73 dashi-steamed eggs with spinach 126
Pacific saury sushi 344 kabocha with smashed tofu 86 egg threads 222
persimmon and daikon with chestnut miso399 namekomushrooms with grated daikon67 egg yolk - dressed crab and cucumber 70
petrale sole with daikon, peppers, and natto-topped vegetable salad 84, 85 fried dried persimmons 230
mori tsigu 424 new potatoes with sour plum and orange 73 Japanese egg drop soup 176, 177
quick pickled doikonwith doikonleaves okarapotato salad 87 Japanese-style scrambled eggs 223
243, 342 sauieed onions with notto 66 katsudon315
quick rice bran - pickled daikon341 sesame-dressed greens and carrots 76, 77 layered napa cabbage 204
"raccoon dog" soup 172, 173 spinach and chrysanthemum petals in miso-pickled egg yolk 322
salmon nabe356, 357 soy dashi61 misosoup with poach ed egg 164, 165
sardines simmered with umeboshi142 , 143 spinach and enokiwith smashed tofu 82, 83 notlo with egg and garlic chives 46
silky vegetable soup 170 spinach with walnuts 67 oden 150
simmered daikonand yellowtail collar 145 stamina salad 66 272, 273
okonom,!Yoki
simmered daikonwith miso 124 steamed eggplant with sesame 76 tz1akodon316
simmered dried daikonthreads 123 summer chicken salad 72 quail eggs and chicken balls 36, 37
simmered herring with dried daikon139 summer salad with dumplings 68 ramen284, 285
smoked mackerel with colorful radish salad sweet miso-dressed negiwith clams 72 rolled crab and nori om elet 46, 47
392 sweet potato with lemon dressing 68 , 69 rolled egg omelet 222
sour plum - scattered sushi 294, 295 tofu flavored six ways 88, 89 rolled spinach omelet 220, 221
450 INDEX
savory egg custard pots 192, 193 salmon croquettes 250 soy sauce-pickled garlic 332
scattered sushi 292 sardine chankonabe352 spicy miso-pickled garlic chicken 52
stamina salad 66 sardines fried with pickled red ginger 246 garlic chives 436
steamed egg custard pots 190 sardines with carrot-tomato sauce 210, 211 dashiegg with garlic chives 42
stir-fried egg with beef 223 sea urchin-glazed flounder 256 garlic chive soup 174, 175
stir-fried spinach and mushrooms 212, !V3 seafood sukjyaki360 island somenwith red chile and garlic chives
sukjyaki370, 371 shimesaba93 280, 281
summer chicken salad 72 shiso-perfumed rice 302, 303 notto with egg and garlic chives 46
enokimushrooms 429 shiso-wrapped pan-grilled snapper 48 stir-fried chicken and garlic chives 224, 225
grated daikonand mushroom soup 180 simmered daikonand yellowtail collar 145 sumo-style chicken soup 155
kinokogohon421 simmered herring with dried daikon139 gelCe, soy milk and cocoa 382, 383
new potatoes with sour plum and orange 73 smoked mackerel with colorful radish salad Genghis Khan 365
shiratakinoodles with cod roe 98 392 genmaimiso430
soy doshi- simmered mushrooms 151 sour plum-steamed cod 196, 197 ginger 92, 186, 430
spinach and enokiwith smashed tofu 82, 83 steaming fish 186 daikonshiokoji"steak" with gingered nori sauce
steamed onions with bacon 194 sweet soy-grilled Spanish mackerel 264 402
stir-fried spinach and mushrooms 212, 213 sweet soy - simmered flounder 139 ginger-infused greens and vegetables 64, 65
yuba withyu{u juice 41 vinegared mackerel with daikon96 ginger pork and mustard greens soup
equipment 444-5 vinegared sardines 110 182,183
eryngii[king oyster] mushrooms 429 fish roe ginger rice 308
soy dashi- simmered mushrooms 151 burdock with cod roe 42, 43 ginger-scallion oil 418
spinach and chrysanthemum petals in grated daikonwith salmon roe 96, 97 ginger - soy chicken rice bowl 314
soy dashi61 shiratakinoodles with cod roe 98 miso-pick.led ginger 328
fish sauce 19, 320, 430, 431 pickled red ginger 330, 331
F fish sauce-grilled rice balls 294 pickled red ginger fritters 242, 243
fava (broad) beans fish sauce-pickled eggplant 326 sardines fried with pickled red ginger 246
clams, fava beans, and capers steamed in fish sausages [chikuwa]429 stir-fried eggplant with ginger and sesame
dashibutter 413 leek fritters 244, 245 210
stir-fried fava beans 34, 35 oden 150 tare 414
fermented foods 22, 24-5, 320 five-color udun 282 vinegared cucumber and crab with ginger
fiddlehead ferns 429-30 flavoring: kaeshi156 no
doshi-drenched fiddlehead ferns 62 flounder ginkgo nuts 430
fiddlehead ferns with smashed tofu and sea urchin-glazed flounder 256 ginkgo nuts on skewers 31
walnuts 84 sweet soy-simmered flounder 139 salad sushi 293
ng, flowering greens in sake-soy 62, 63 savory egg custard pots 192, 193
figs, crCpes, chestnut ice cream, tangerine fragrant miso-simmered daikon128, 129 gobo [burdock] 430-1
caramel 395-6 French cuisine 20 burdock in sesame-vinegar 117
simmered scallops and figs 399 fried 226-51 burdock salad 41
nsh 18, 19, 25, 431 agedashitofu 232, 233 burdock with cod roe 42, 43
bonito sashimi with butterbur misoand shiso ogedashitofu with grated doikon232 chicken and vegetable stuffed kabocha
400 curry-seasoned fried mackerel 246, 247 200, 201
405
bo,{,Ushi dashi-simmered deep-friedgonmodoki 234 country misosoup 168
burdock. salad 41 deep-fried chicken nuggets 229 kenchinjiru171
buridaikon144 deep-fried daikonwith black sesame matsutake,burdock, and Kyoto carrot kinpira
chopped sardines with miso102, 103 230, 231 403
chrysanthemum petal - steamed fish balls deep-fried eggplant in dashi240, 241 misoand mackerel chankonabe368
194,195 eggplant fritters 240 miso-simmered beef and burdock 150
citrus- and ume-dressed daikonand sardines fried chicken meatballs with nori 251 New Year soup 170
102 fried dried persimmons 230 "raccoon dog" soup 172, 173
clear fish broth 160 fried eggplant with sour plum 238 salad sushi 293
creamy soy milk snapper 137 fried kabocha balls 235 simmered burdock with walnuts 138
crispy fried tuna nuggets 421 fried miso rice balls 244 simmered chicken and vegetables 140, 141
curry-seasoned fried mackerel 246, 247 kabocha croquettes 236, 237 soy - simmered beef and burdock 148, 149
daikonand tuna salad 32 leek fritters 244, 245 stir-fried burdock and carrot 218
daikonwith sesame-vinegar 117 lotus "croquettes" 242 stir-fried burdock with tofu 209
dried daikonleaf fried rice 312 , 313 pan-fried fish balls 251 stir-fried vegetables with burdock 209
fermented fish 24-5 pickled red ginger fritters 242, 243 sweet potato country soup 168, 169
fish dumpling soup with miSo174 rice croquettes 248, 249 taro root country soup 182
garlic chive soup 174, 175 salmon croquettes 250 wild boar misonabe369
grilled hake with spiced skin and green sardines fried with pickled red ginger 246 guha, 288 - 317
surinagashi413 soybean croquettes 250 bamboo rice 300, 301
grilled shimesabnwith sweet persimmon spicy fried chicken meatballs 229 brown rice 291
misosauce 403 summer vegetable tempura238 , 239 brown rice, nori, and boiled egg 416
herring and chrysanthemum soup 176 fritters chicken and vegetable mixed rice 310, 311
horse mackerel sushi 346, 347 eggplant fritters 240 crab and egg yolk rice bowl with aonorisalt
irikodashi157 leek fritters 244, 245 and kinome411
kinmedaisashimi , myogaand fried shiso407 pickled red ginger fritters 242, 243 curry rice 297
lily bulb and shirakotempurawith matcha salt fruit 18 dried daikonleaf fried rice 312, 313
401 seealsoindividual!Jpesoffruit dried daikonleaf porridge 314
mackerel terjyaki264, 265 Ju[wheat gluten] 430 fish sauce-grilled rice balls 294
misoand mackerel chankonabe 368 Juki [butterburs] 430 garlic rice 300
miso-marinated grilled cod 268 bonito sashimi with butterbur misoand shiso ginger rice 308
miso-simmered mackerel 144 400 ginger - soy chicken rice bowl 314
nanban-~ukemameaji 404 butterbur buds with grated daikon61 green pea rice 300
Pacific saury sushi 344 Japanese rice 291
pan-fried fish balls 251 G katsudon315
petrale sole with daikon, peppers, and ganmodoki430 kt?Jadon309
424
morits19"t1 Joshi-simmered deep-fried ganmodoki234 mochiporridge 312
pine needle-grilled snapper 260, 261 garlic 430 '?Yakodon316
raw fish 92, 154 foil-grilled garlic 258 pressed sushi 296
rolled sardine sushi 297 garlic rice 300 red shisorice 304, 305
451 INDEX
rice bowl with ground meat 304 Heian Period (794-1192) 20, 22, 25 Ja panese fish sausage [chikuwa]
rice with daikongreens 296 hen-of-the-woods mushrooms seemaitake leek fritter s 244, 245
rolled sardine sushi 297 herring oden 150
salad sushi 293 herring and chrysanthemum soup 176 Japanese mustard greens (komotsuna]92, 433
sansholeaf rice 302 simmered herring with dried daikon139 daikonand pork soboronabe369
scattered sushi 292 Hidakakonbu 431 Genghis Khan 365
sekihan298, 299 hijiki 431 ginger-infused greens and vegeta bl es
shiso-perfumed rice 302, 303 simmered hijikiseaweed 123 64, 65
shrimp and pea rice 3r6, 317 hikiwarimugi: chicken and vegetable mixed rice ginger pork and mustard greens soup
sour plum-scatt ered sushi 294, 295 310,311 182,1 83
sushi pouches 310 hishio20 New Year soup 170
sushi rice 291 hitokuchi dai ni kiru 446 pork and mustard greens soup with miso 178
taro rice 308 hittsumi277 romen 284, 285
yuzu rice with mitsuba306, 307 :.ummer :salad with dumpling11 68 :salt-fermented mustard greens 333
yuzu rice with nanohana306 hocho Uapanese Knives] 444 sesame-dressed greens and carrots
goheimochi385 hojiso 76, 77
gomadofu54, 55 332
miso- picl<led shisobuds and 11!)1ogo stir-fried vegetables with burdock 209
granita, whipped tofu, melon , and sake416 soy sauce-pickled shisobuds 330 sweet potato country soup 168, 169
gratins honi:tnryori21-2 taro root country soup 182
soy milk gratin 398 horse mackerel turnip, komot.suna,scallion, and apple 423
spinach gratin 256, 257 bo,VJshi405 wild boar misonabe369
green beans horse mackerel sushi 346, 347 Japanese pumpkin (kabocha)
crab and misonabe358, 359 hoshiba:dried daikonleaf porridge 314 chicken and vegetable stuffed kabocha
crispy gr ee n beans in sesame 74, 75 hoshigaki[dried persimmon] 431 200,201
dashi-simmered cabbage rolls 134, 135 daikonand dried persimmon with mitsuba107 fried lcabocha balls 235
green beans with smashed tofu and sesame fried dried persimmons 230 kabocha croquettes 236, 237
80, 81 vinegared turnips with dried persimmons 107 kabocha with smashed tofu 86
layered napa cabbage with green beans 203 hosogiri 446 stir-fried lcabocha 214
pork belly with green beans 146, 147 hot food 20, 21 stuffed lcabocha 198
rice bowl with ground meat 304 hot noodle broth 157 summer vegetable tempura238, 239
salt-fermented summer vegetables 328, 329 iyloshigi-kiri446 Japanese rice 291
simmered chicken and vegetables 140, 141 Japanese-style scrambled eggs 223
stir-fried egg with beef 223 Japanese-style soft block tofu 435
summer vegetable tempura238, 239 ice cream, chestnut 395-6 agedashitofu 232, 233
green tangerine caramel sauce 396 ichijusansei22 agedashitofu with grated daikon 232
greens ichimitogarashi43r carrot with smashed tofu and sesame 64
ginger - infused greens and vegetables 64, 65 Imai, Yoshihiro 392 carrot with smashed tofu and walnuts 80
greens and chrysanthemum petals with inaka miso4 31 chicken and vegetable stuffed kabocha
sesame 73 iriko 431 200,201
sesame-dressed greens and carrots 76, 77 irikodashi157 cold prevention soup 180, 181
grilled 252-73 kenchinjiru171 country misosoup 168
black sesame - grilled spot prawns 262, 263 iron pots 20-1 crab and misonabe 358, 359
chicken terrine 255 ishirilishiru431 dashi-si mmered deep - fried ganmodoki234
foil-wrapp ed crab and eggplant 258 island somenwith r ed chile and garlic chives fiddlehead ferns with smashed tofu and
foil-wrapped grill ed garlic 258 280, 281 walnuts 84
grilled corn 415 Italian cuisine 20 fried lcabocha balls 235
grilled duck breast with turnip 268, 269 Italian-style soybeans 138 green beans with smashed tofu and sesame
grilled hake with spiced skin and green itomemono206-25 Bo, 81
surinagashi413 egg threads 2 2 2 kabocha with smashed tofu 86
grilled natto pouches 259 green pepp er kinpira216 kenchintofu -s tuff ed napa cabbage 130
grilled sesame chicken 266 Japanes e-styl e scrambled eggs 223 kenchinjiru171
grilled shiitake,citrus soy,yuz.u, and oba 408 miso-infused m eat and vegetables 2J5 miso and mackerel chanko nabe 368
grilled shimesabawith sweet persimmon miso-fried eggplant and green pepper misochicken balls and napa soup 363
misosauce 403 218,219 misooden 364
mackerel terjyaki 264, 265 rolled egg omelet 222 one-pot pork and napa cabbage 366, 367
miso-marinated grilled cod 268 rolled spinach omelet 220, 221 oyster and misonabe 354
okonomjyaki272, 273 sardines with carrot - tomato sauce 210, 211 oyster nabe355
oven-roasted sweet potatoes 254 sauteed vegetables with chicken liver and quick m~utaki 360, 361
pine needle-grilled snapper 260, 261 tofu 215 salmon nabe 356, 357
quick tepPan-yaki270 silky bean sprouts 220 sauteed vegetables with chicken liver
salt-grilled snapper 262 stir-fried burdoci and carrot 218 and tofu 215
salt-grilled turban shells 260 stir-fried burdock with tofu 209 seafood sukjyaki360
sea urchin - glazed flounder 256 stir-fried chicken and garlic chives 224, 225 spinach and enokiwith smashed tofu 82, 83
spinach gratin 256, 257 stir-fried chicken and vegetables 224 steamed egg custard pots 190
sweet miso-grilled eggplant 259 stir-fried egg with beef 223 stir-fried burdock with tofu 209
sweet soy-grilled Spanish mackerel 264 stir-fried eggplant with ginger and sesame 210 stuffed kabocha 198
teppan::,aki270 , 271 stir-fried lcabocha 214 sukjyaki370, 371
f.s(!Jupin255 stir-fried lotus root 214 sweet miso-glazed tofu bars 380
yakitori 266, 267 stir-fried ntgiwith miso 216 , 217 sweet potato country soup 168, 169
g1osho19 stir - fried okaraand vegetables 212 taro root country soup 182
~o{P.431 stir-fried spinach and mushrooms 212, 213 tofu flavored six ways 88, 89
stir-fried vegetables with burdock 209 tofu -st uffed cabbage rolls 132, 133
H itchogiri446 yudofu 352, 353
hake: grilled hake with spiced skin and green lzalcaya Rintaro 422 Japanese walnuts 431
surinagashi413 i,t,k'!J'as
254 Japanese wild parsley , mustard-pickled 321
hakurikiko[udon flour] 431 jellyfish: squid and jellyfish with
ham: cold pr evention soup 180, 181 J mustard vinegar JOO
han,wri446 Japan ese chicken broth 154, 160 Jidori 414
handai444 Japanese chicken noodle soup 287 Jirobei, Asano 2.3
hangef.su-kiri
446 Japanese cucumbers see cucumbers Jomon Period (CA 12,000 BCE- 400 BCE)
hashi444 Japanese egg drop soup 176, 177 17-18
452 INDEX
K natto soup 166 kinome, crab and egg yolk rice bowl with
kabocha (Japancse pumpkin) noodle dipping broth 157 salt and 411
chi cken and vegetable stuff ed kabocha oden 150 kinpira208
200, 20 1 one- po t chicken with udon 278 daikonpeel kinpira 32 , 33
frie d kab ocha balls 235 '!)'Okodon316 green pepper lr:inpiro 216
kaboc ha croquettes 236 , 237 por k and cab bage nabe358 matsutake,burdock , and Kyoto car rot kinpira
kabocha with smashed tofu 86 sardine chankonabe352 403
stir-fried kabocha 214 savory egg custard pots 192 , 193 mitsubar oot kinpiro4 4
stuffe d kabocha 198 scattered sushi 292 nasu and shishito kinpira 420
summer vegetab le Umpura238, 239 sesa me-dre ssed gre ens and carrots 76, 77 kinu 24
kabu, awasemiso broth , chrysanthemum, and shirotakibundles 128 kiriboshi daikon [dried daikonthr eads] 432
non· 410 silky vegetab le soup 170 dried daikonand dri ed squid in vineg ar n8
kaeshi156, 397 simmere d chicken and vegetabl es 140 , 141 simmered dried Jaikon thr ea ds 123
amadashi397 simmered hijiki seaweed 123 kirigumu376
karaidashi 398 soy dashi- simme red mushrooms 151 kitsunesoba, Osaka 287
noodle dipping broth 157 spicy steamed carrot stem s 31 lnive s 444
tempura dipp ing broth 157 sp inac h an d chrysanthemum petals in kobon:Jaki 378
udon 424 soy dashi61 kabosu432
kaiseki376 steam ed egg custard pots 190 kochujan 432
kaisekiryori22, 23 taro stem s in sesame-vinegar dr essing 116 koji (asf><Tllusary<11•)433
kaiseki,ttn 2 2-3 tempurad ipping br ot h 157 kokuchi-giri446
kaiwo.redaikon(daikonsprouts) 432 tofu-s tuffed cabbag e roll s 132 , 133 komatsunaQapanese mustard greens] 92, 433
notto-toppe d vege table salad 84 , 85 wild b oa r miso nabe369 daikon and pork soboro nabe369
summe r salad wit h dumplings 68 kalsuobushi kezuriki[/ratsuobushishavi ng b ox] 444 Ge nghi s Khan 365
kamaboko432 kelp [kanbu]18, 22 , 433, 437, 442 ginger-infused greens and vegetables 64 , 65
savory egg custard pots 192, 193 agedashi tofu with grated daikon 232 ginger pork and mustard greens sou p
Kam akur a period (n92 - 133 6) 20 - J chicken and vegetable mixed rice 310, 3Jl 182, 183
kanmi 374-89 citrus- and ume-dressed daikon and sardin es New Year soup 170
ama,take 388 102 pork and mustard gr ee ns so up with miso 178
apple bread 377 daikonwith sweet miso40 ramtn 284 , 285
carro t cake 388, 389 dashi397 salt - fermented mustard gre ens 333
figs, crepes, chestnut ice cream , dried daikonleaf porridge 314 sesame-dressed greens and carrots 76, 77
tangerine caramel 395-6 ginger pork and mu stard greens so up stir-fried vegetables with burd oc k 209
goheimochi385 182,183 sweet potato country soup 168, 169
koban-yaki378 ginger rice 308 taro r oo t co untry soup 182
manju381, 385 green ch ile relish 333 turnip , komatsuna, scallion , and apple 42 3
ohagi 378, 379 grilled natto po uch es 259 wild boar misonabe36 9
Okinawn-style sesame donut s 386, 387 h o r se mackerel sushi 3 46, 347 kome 290
peanut manju 382 katsuobwhidashi156 kanbu [kelp] 18, 22,433,437, 442
peanut "tofu" 384 kelp - and vinegar-wicked nanohana 38 agtdashit ofu with grated daikon 232
soy milk and cocoa gdCe 382, 383 kelp broth 20 chicken and vegetable mixed rice 310, 311
steamed apples and sweet potatoes 37 7 kelp-wick ed nanohana 38 citrus - and ume-dressed daikon and sardines
sweet miso-glazed to fu bars 385 kelp-wid.ing 38 102
whipped tofu , melon, and sake granita 4 16 konbuwith umeboshi34 daikonwith sweet miso 40
yo kan 386 konbu-wrapped kon,yaku 3 4 dashi397
kanv o 432 oden 150 dri ed daikonleaf porridge 314
kanten432 overnight pickled napa cabbage 336 ginger pork and mustard greens soup
kappo!)!Ori 276 oyster nabe355 182,183
/rarai dashi 398 "raccoon dog " soup 172, 173 gin ger rice 308
karashina [mustard greens ] 432 salt-ferm en ted n apa cab bage 339 gree n chile relish 333
katsuobwhi22, 432 shimtsaba93 grilled natto pouche s 259
bamboo sh oot with katsuobwhi 151 shrimp ball nabe356 h orse mackerel sushi 34 6 , 347
dashi-drc n che d fiddl chead fern s 62 sim mer ed daikon and yellowtail co llar 145 katsuobushidashi 156
flowering greens in sake-soy 62, 63 simm er ed daikonwith miso 124 kelp - and vinegar -wid.ed nanohana38
stam ina salad 66 simmer ed dried daikonthread s 123 kelp broth 20
steamed eggplant with sesame 76 soy sau ce-pic kled cucumbers 324, 325 kelp-wicked nanohano 38
udon kaeshi 424 soy sauce-simmered daikonand pork 145 kelp -wicking 38
katn1obushi dashi156, 397 vegetar ian ramen 418 konbu with umeboshi 34
bun· daikon 144 y ,dofo 352, 353 konbu-wrapped kon191aku34
cabbage miso soup 162 J UUA rice with mitsuba306, 30 7 oden 150
co untry mi.sosoup 168 kenchin to fu -s tuffed napa cabbag e 13 0 overnigh t pickled napa cabbage 336
crab and yuba misonabe406 kenchinjiru 171 oyster nabt 355
daikon and po rk. soboronabe 369 kibi 18 "raccoon dog" soup 172, 173
daikonshiokoji"steak" with gingered nori sau ce kigiku[edible chrysanthemum flowers] salt - fermented napa cabbage 339
402 burdock in sesame -vinegar .117 shimesaba93
dashi- dr ench ed fiddl ehea d ferns 62 chry san themum petal -s te amed fish ball s shrimp ball nabe356
da.shi-simmered cabbage rolls 134 , 135 194,195 simmered daikon and yellowtail colla r 145
Joshi- simme red deep-friedganmoJ oki 234 greens and chrysan themum petals with simmered daikon with miso 124
Joshi-simmered taro r oo t 126 , 127 sesame 73 simm ered dried daikon threads 123
Joshi-stea med eggs with spinach 126 spin ach and chrysanthemum petals in soy sauc e- pic lled cuc umbe rs 324, 325
d ee p-fri ed eggplant in daslai240, 241 soy dashi6 1 soy sauc e-si mmered daikonand p o r k 145
fish dumphng soup with miso 174 spi na ch and enokiwith smas hed tofu vegeta rian ramen4 18
ginge r -soy chicken rice bowl 3 14 82, 83 yudafo 352, 353
grated daikonand mu shroom soup 180 walnu t- dres sed chrysanthemum petals 78 yu.tUr ice with mitsuba306, 307
grilled eggplant misosoup 164 kinako [roas ted soybean flour] 376, 43 2 konbu Joshi 156
katsudon 3 15 king oyster mushrooms seeeryngiimu shr oo m s chicken and vegeta bl e stuff ed kabocha
misochicken balls and napa so up 363 kinmedai 200,201
misooden364 eggp lan t soup, snapper, sea grapes , an d crab and misonabe358, 359
miso-simmered pork belly and green pepp er "!)'ago 394 dashi egg with garlic chives 42
372, 373 kinmedaisashimi, f!!YOgGand fr ied shiso 40 7 eggplant and peanut so up 166 , 167
misosoup with poached egg 164, 165 kinokogohan421 garlic chive soup 174, 175
453 INDEX
gomadofa54, 55 matcha salt, lily bulb and shirakotempurawith 401 pork and mustard greens soup with miso178
k'!Jadon309 matsutake[pine mushroom] 434 shiso-scented miso 39
scattered sushi 292 burdock, and Kyoto carrot kinpira403 simmered daikonwith misa 124
spinach and enokiwith smashed tofu 82, 83 mayonnaise 4 34 spicy miso-pickled garlic chicken 52
taro root country soup 182 meat taboo 25 stir - fried negiwith misa 216, 217
kon79aku433 meatballs sweet miso-dressed negiwith clams 72
crab and miso nabe 358, 359 fried chicken meatballs with nori 251 sweet miso-g lazed tofu bars 385
kenchinjiru171 spicy fried chicken meatballs 229 sweet miso-grilled eggplant 259
konbu-wrapped kon19aku34 melon 18 vegetarian rumen418
kon191akuand rice soup 171 silky winter melon 137 wild boar misonabe369
kon'!Yakusashimi with sesame miso94 whipped tofu, melon, and sakegranita 416 mitsuba92, 435
kon'!'akuwith poppy seeds 36 menrui154, 274-87 daikonand dri ed persimmon with mitsuba107
misooden 364 five-color udon 282 ginger-infused greens and vegetables 64, 65
oden 150 hitllumi 277 mibubu rool h11pin1 44
"raccoon dog" soup 172, 173 island somenwith red chile and garlic chives new potatoes with sour plum and orange 73
simmered chicken and vegetables 140, l,p 280, 281 potato salad with black sesame 50, 51
sumo - style chicken soup 155 Japanese chicken noodle soup 287 seafood sukjyaki368
sweet potato country soup 168, 169 nikomiudon 279 tamagotoji soup 419
taro root country soup 182 one-pot chicken with udan 278 yudofa 352, 353
Koya Bar 412 one-pot seafood udon 277 yuz.u rice with mitsuba306, 307
k'!Yadofa433 Osakakitsunesaba287 mituna 92
k<!Jadon 309 rumen284, 285 mitutaki22
kmk.u433 soba 286 quick mi{utaki360, 361
gomadofa54, 55 spinach and udon soup 282, 283 mochi21, 24, 435
peanut " tofu" 384 suigyoz.a279 machiporridg e 312
kumquats 433 udon 280 sekihan298, 299
kuri 376 udonwith chick.en and negi278 machiko[powdered glutinous rice flour J 435
kurogoma-ae,ohagi378, 379 mijingiri446 momendoju435
kuromame 433 mikan434 ageda.shitofu 232, 233
kuromitsu 376, 433 millets 18 ageda.shitofu with grated daikon232
kurosato 433 mirin 22, I06, 208,376,434 carrot with smashed tofu and sesame 64
kushigata-giri446 green chile relish 333 carrot with smashed tofu and walnuts 80
9onliko [bread flour] 433 tare 414 chicken and vegetable stuffed kabocha
9urimomiII6 udonkaeshi424 200, 201
m;so21, 208, 320, 430, 431, 434, 435, 439 cold prevention soup 180, 181
L bonito sashimi with butterbur misoand shiso country misosoup 168
lamb: Genghis Khan 365 400 crab and misonabe 358, 359
leek fritters 244, 245 cabbage misosoup 162 doshi-simmered deep-friedganmodoki 234
L'Efferve sce nce 4,00 chilled chicken salad with misodressing 420 fiddlehead ferns with smashed tofu and
lemons: sweet potato with lemon dressing 68 , 69 chopped sardines with miso 102, 103 walnuts 84
lettuce country misosoup 168 fried kabocha balls 235
natto-topped vegetable salad 84, 85 crab and miso nabe 358, 359 green beans with smashed tofu and sesame
sweet potato with lemon dressing 68, 69 crab and yuba misonabe 406 80, 81
lily bulb 433 crab "miso" 406 kabocha with smashed tofu 86
lily bulb and shirakotempurawith matcha salt daikonwith sweet misa40 kenchintofu-stuffed napa cabbage 130
401 eggplant in sesame miso 78, 79 kenchinjiru171
salad sushi 293 fish dumpling soup with miso 174 misoand mackerel chankanabe368
steamed mountain yam with nori 196 fragrant miso-simmered daikon128, 129 misochicken balls and napa soup 363
loquats 433-4 fried misorice balls 244 misoaden 364
lotus root 434 green pepper miso 39 one-pot pork and napa cabbage 366, 367
lotus "croquettes" 242 grilled eggplant misasoup 164 oyster and misonabe354
salad sushi 293 grilled shimesabawith sweet persimmon oyster nabe355
simmered chicken and vegetables 140, 141 misosauce 403 quick mk,utaki360, 361
stir-fried lotus root 214 kabu, awa.semisobroth, chrysanthemum, salmon nabe356, 357
and nori 410 sauteed vegetables with chicken liver and
M kon'!)'akusashimi with sesame miso94 tofu 215
ma-konbu434 misoand mackerel chankonabe368 seafood sukjyaki360
mackerel misochicken balls and napa soup 363 spinach and enokiwith smashed tofu 82, 83
curry-seasoned fried mackerel 246, 247 miso-infused meat and vegetables 215 steamed egg custard pots 190
grilled shimesabawith sweet persimmon miso-flavored onion 188 stir-fried burdock with tofu 209
misosauce 403 miso-fried eggplant and green pepper stuffed kabocha 198
mackerel terjyaki264, 265 218, 219 sukjyaki370, 371
misoand mackerel chankonabe368 miso- marinated grilled cod 268 sweet miso-glazed tofu bars 380
misc- simmered mackerel 144 misooden 364 sweet potato country soup 168, 169
shimesaba93 miso-pickled daikon340 taro root country soup 182
smoked mackerel with colorful radish salad miso-pickled egg yolk 322 tofu flavored six ways 88, 89
392 miso-pickled ginger 328 tofu-stuffed cabbage rolls 132, 133
vinegared mackerel with daikon96 miso-pickled shisobuds and myoga332 yudofu 352, 353
mackerel pike: Pacific saury sushi 344 miso-pickled takuan342 momijioroshi92
maitake[hen - of - the - woods mushroom] 434 miso- pickled turnips 334, 335 Monk 392
one-pot seafood udon 277 miso-simmered beef and burdock 150 morits19u,petra le so le with daikon, peppers ,
soy da5hi-simmered mushrooms 151 miso-simmered mackerel 144 and 424
spinach and chrysanthemum petals in miso-simmered pork belly and green pepper motainai philosophy 30
soy dashi61 372, 373 mountain yam [nogoimo]
makitamago,dashi398 misosoup 154 deep - fried daikonwith black sesame 230, 231
makisu444 miso soup with grated carrot 162, 163 fried kabocha balls 235
mameoji, nanban-z.uke404 misosoup with poached egg 164, 165 leek fritters 244, 245
mamemi5o[soybean miso] 434 miso-stuffed steamed turnips 188, 189 mountain yam with edamameand nori 94, 95
mangetout (snow peas): taro rice 308 natto soup 166 napa cabbage rolls simmered in tomato 131
manju21, 22, 186,380,381 oyster and misonabe354 rice croquettes 248, 249
peanut manju382 persimmon and daikonwith chestnut miso399 soybean croquettes 250
454 INDEX
steamed mountain yam with nori 196 ginger pork and mustard greens soup mountain yam with edamamtand nori 94, 95
taro root country soup 182 182,183 mustard-dressed squid and cucumber
m'D'ashi[mung bean sprouts] 435 New Year soup 170 100 , JOI
cucumber and bean sprouts in pork and mustard greens soup with miso178 oysters in sweet vinegar withyu.tu 98, 99
sesame-vinegar n4 romen284, 285 sea pineapple and cucumber in sweet
misoand mackerel chankonabe368 salt-fermented mustard greens 333 vinegar 93
sardine chankonabe352 sesame-dressed greens and carrots 76, 77 shimesaba 93
silky bean sprouts 220 stir-fried vegetables with burdock 209 shiratakinoodles with cod roe 98
stamina salad 66 sweet potato country soup 168, 169 squid and jellyfish with mustard vinegar 100
mozzar ella cheese taro root country soup 182 vinegared mackerel with daikon96
eggplant with tomato m eat sauce 50 turnip, komatsuna,scallion, and apple 423 namekomushrooms 435
kabocha croquettes 236 , 237 wild boar misonabe369 namekomushrooms with grated daikon67
mugimiso [barley miso] 435 ")Y•ga92, 435 nanohana[flowering brassica] 435
mung bean sprouts [m~ashi] eggplant soup , snapp ...r, s ...l'I gr,1pes, flowering greens in .roke-soy 62. 63
cucumber and bean sprouts in and "!)'Oga394 kelp- and vinegar-wicked nanohana38
sesame-vinegar 114 kinmedaisashimi, 119oga and fried shiso407 kelp-wicked nanohana38
misoand mackerel chankonabe368 miso- pickled shisobuds and ~oga 332 yutu rice with nanohana306
sardine chankonabe352 quick shibat11kt326, 327 napa cabbage 186
silky bean sprouts 220 three-way vinegar-pickled 1191oga 324 creamy napa cabbage 136
stamina salad 66 creamy soy milk snapper 137
Muromachi Period (1336- 1573) 21-2 N kenchintofu-stuffed napa cabbage 130
mushimono184-205 N/Naka 419 layered napa cabbage 204
chid.en and vegetable stuffed kabocha nanban-.u,kemamt aji 404 layered napa cabbage and spinach 187
200,201 nabt 18 layered napa cabbage with green beans 203
chrysanthemum p etal-st eamed fish balls chicken and seafood nabe351 misoand mackerel chankonabe 368
194,195 crab and misonabe358, 359 misochicken balls and napa soup 363
cold steamed chicken 198, 199 crab and yuba misonabt 406 napa cabbage and spinach rolls 187
layered napa cabbage 204 daikon and pork soboronabt 369 napa cabbage rolls simmered in tomato
layered napa cabbage and spinach 187 misoand mackerel chankonobe368 131
layered napa cabbage with green beans 203 oyster and misonabe 354 one - pot pork and napa cabbage 366, 367
miso-flavored onion 188 oyster nabe 355 overnight pickled napa cabbage 336
miso-stuffed steamed turnips 188, 189 pork and cabbage nabe358 oyster nabe355
napa cabbage and spinach rolls 187 salmon nabt 356, 357 pork and cabbage nabe 358
savory egg custard pots 192, 193 sardine chankonabe352 quick mk.utaki360, 361
silky napa cabbage layered with ground meat shrimp ball nabe356 quick salt-pickled cabbage 338
205 wild boar misonabe369 salt - fermented napa cabbage 339
sour plum-steamed cod 196, 197 nabemono154, 348-73 sardine chankonabe352
soy milk chawanmushi190, 191 chicken and seafood nabe351 seafood sukjyaki360
steamed egg custard pots 190 crab and misonabe358, 359 si1lcynapa cabbage layered with ground meat
steamed grated turnip 202 crab and yuba misonabe406 205
steamed mountain yam with nori 196 daikonand pork soboronabt 369 spicy napa cabbage pickles 336, 337
steamed onions with bacon 194 Genghis Khan 365 stewed chicken and vegetables 362
stuffed kabocha 198 milky chicken and vegetable soup 351 sumo-style chicken soup 155
udo and chicken steamed with sour plums misoand mackerel chankonabe368 Nara Pe riod (7w-794) 19-20
192 misochicken balls and napasoup 363 nafa{uke:boudin noir and nara{Uktstuffed
mushrooms 429, 434 , 439 misooden364 roasted shiitake393
boudin noir and nar~uke stuffed roasted miso-simmered pork belly and green pepper 24-5
nart.ttJShi
shiitake393 372, 373 naruto436
chicken and mushroom terrine 54 one - pot pork and napa cabbage 366, 367 nasuand shishitokinpira420
clam broth soup 158, 159 oyster and misonabe354 national isolation 22-3
cucumber and shiitakein sesame-vinegar oyster nabe 355 nutsumikan436
118,119 pork and cabbage nabe358 natto 436
grated daikonand mushroom soup 180 quick mi{utaki360, 361 grilled natto pouches 259
grilled shiitake,citrus soy,yutu, and oba 408 salmon nabe356, 357 natto soup 166
kinokogohan421 sardine chankonabe 352 natto-topped vegetable salad 84, 85
matsutake,burdock, and Kyoto carrot kinpira seafood sukjyaki360 natto with egg and garlic chives 46
403 shrimp ball nabe356 sauteed onions with natto 66
namekomushrooms with grated daikon67 stewed chicken and vegetables 362 negiUapanese "leeks"] 186, 276, 436
quick teppan:Jaki270 sukjyaki370, 371 buttered ntgi 31
shiratakinoodles with cod roe 98 wild boar misonabe369 chicken and seafood nabe351
simmered shiitakeand sweet potato 124, 125 yudofu 352, 353 crab and misonabe358, 359
soy dashi-simmered mushrooms 151 nagaimo [mountain yam] 435 five-color udon 282
soy milk gratin 398 deep-fried daikonwith black sesame 230, 231 leek fritters 244, 24,5
spinach and chrysanthemum petals in fried kabocha balls 235 miso-simmered mackerel 144
soy dashi61 leek fritters 244, 245 miso-simmered pork belly and green pepper
spinach and tnaki with smashed tofu 82, 83 mountain yam with edamameand nori 94, 95 372,373
steamed onions with bacon 194 napa cabbage rolls simmered in tomato 131 one-pot pork and napa cabbage 366 , 367
stir-fried spinach and mushrooms 212, 213 rice croquettes 248, 249 qyakodon316
tamagofojisoup 419 soybean croquettes 250 oyster and misonabe354
taro root country soup 182 steamed mountain yam with nori 196 pork and cabbage nabe 358
yuba with yuzu juice 41 taro root country soup 182 romen284, 285
mustard 435 Nakamura, Kazunari 393-6 seafood sukj)•aki360
mustard and vinegar-pickled eggplant 321 Nakatani, Kanji 397-9 stewed chicken and vegetables 362
mustard-dressed squid and cucumber Nakayama, Niki 419- 21 stir-fried negiwith miso 216, 217
100,101 Namae, Shinobu 400 - 3 sweet miso- dressed negiwith clams 72
mustard-pickled Japanese parsley 321 namamono90-103 udonwith chicken and negi278
quick mustard-pickled eggplant 324 chopped sardines with miso 102 , 103 negima415
mustard greens [komatsuna] 92, 433 citrus- and ume-dressed daikonand sardines Neolothic culture 17-18
daikonand pork soboronabe 369 102 New Year soup 170
G enghis Khan 365 grated daikonwith salmon roe 96, 97 nigari436
ginger-infused greens and vegetables 64, 65 kon'!)'akusashimi with sesame miso 94 nikomiudon 279
455 INDEX
nikujaga148 rolled crab and nori omelet 46, 47 peas
nimono120-5r steamed mountain yam with nori 196 chicken and vegetable stuffed kabocha
bamboo shoot with katsuobushi151 200, 201
buri daikon144 0 ginger-soy chicken rice bowl 314
creamy napa cabbage 136 oba leaves , grilled shiitake,citrus soy,yutu, and green pea rice 300
creamy soy milk snapper 137 408 nikujaga148
daikonwith soy-simmered chicken 142 octopus: vinegared octopus and wakame shrimp and pea rice 316, 317
doshi-simmered cabbage rolls 134, 135 108, 109 peppers 431
dashi-simmered taro root 126, 127 Oda , Shuko 412-13 cabbage with hot sesame vinegar 48, 49
dashi-steamed eggs with spinach 126 oden 150 Genghis Khan 365
fragrant miso-simmered daikon128, 129 misooden 364 green chile relish 333
Italian - style soybeans 138 ohag;378, 379 green pepper kinpira216
kenchintofu -s tuffed napa cabbage 130 oils 60,436 green pepper miso 39
miso-.simmcred beef and burdock 150 canola (rapeseed) oil Go, 428 green pepper relish 334
miso-simmered mackerel 144 ginger-scallion oil 418 kabocha croquettes 236, 237
napa cabbage rolls simmered in tomato okara(soybean pulp) 436 miso-fried eggplant and green pepper
131 okarapotato salad 87 218, 219
nikujaga148 simmered pork belly 146 miso-simmered pork belly and green pepper
oden 150 stir-fried akaraand vegetables 212 372, 373
pork belly with green beans 146, 147 Okinawan-style sesame donuts 386, 387 nosu and shishitokinpira420
sardines simmered with umeboshi142, 143 okonomjyaki272,273,417,436 petrale sole with daikon, peppers , and
shiratakibundles 128 olive oil 436 mori ts19u424
silky winter melon 137 omelet quick teppan:,aki 270
simmered burdock with walnuts 138 rolled crab and nori omelet 46, 47 shiso-wrapped shishitopeppers 39
simmered chicken and vegetables rolled egg omelet 222 teppan:Jaki270, 271
140,141 rolled spinach omelet 220, 221 persimmons [hoshigaki]437
simmered daikonand yellowtail collar 145 one-pot dish es 18, 154, 348-73 daikonand dried persimmon with mitsuba107
simmered daikonwith miso124 chicL:.en and seafood nabe351 fried dried persimmons 230
simmered dried daikonthreads 123 crab and misonabe 358, 359 grilled shimesabawith sweet persimmon
simmered herring with dried daikon139 crab and yuba misonabe406 misosauce 403
simmered hijiki seaweed 123 daikonand pork soboronabe369 persimmon and daikonwith chestnut miso399
simmered pork belly 146 Genghis Khan 365 vinegared turnips with dried persimmons 107
simmered scallops and figs 399 milky chicken and vegetable soup 351 petrale sole with daikon, peppers, and mori
simmered shiitakeand sweet potato 124, 125 misoand mackerel chankonabe368 "'9"424
soy doshi-simmered mushrooms 151 misochicken balls and nopa soup 363 piclles 318-47
soy sauce-simmered daikonand pork 145 misooden 364 acharo-style carrot pickles 322, 323
soy-simmered beef and burdock 148, 149 miso-simmered pork belly and green pepper agedashitofu with pickled and fresh ramson
sweet soy - simmered flounder 139 372, 373 412
tofu-stuffed cabbage rolls 132, 133 one-pot pork and napa cabbage beer-pickled daikon345
nira [garlic chives] 436 366, 367 curry-pick.led daikon341
nobiru 436 oyster and misonabe354 dried daikonpickled in three-way vinegar 340
noodles 21, 154, 274-87, 439 oyster nabe 355 fish sauce-pickled eggplant 326
bukkakeudan 4 2 2 pork and cabbage nabe 358 green chile relish 333
crab and yuba misonabe406 quick mi.tutoki360, 361 green pepper relish 334
five - color udon 282 salmon nabe 356, 357 horse mackerel sushi 346, 347
hittsumi277 sardine chankonabe352 miso-pickled daikon340
island somenwith red chile and garlic chives seafood sukjyaki360 miso-pickled egg yolk 322
280, 281 shrimp ball nabe356 miso-pickled ginger 328
Japanese chicken noodle soup 287 stewed chicken and vegetables 362 miso-pickled shisobuds and "9'ogo332
kabocha with smashed tofu 86 sukjyaki370, 371 miso- pickled takuan342
milky chicken and vegetable soup 351 wild boar misonabe369 miso- pickled turnips 334, 335
nikomiudon 279 yudofo 352, 353 mustard and vinegar-pickled eggplant 321
nikujaga148 onions mustard-pickled Japanes e parsley 321
noodle dipping broth 157 misc-flavored onion 188 overnight pick.led napa cabbage 336
one-pot chicken with udon 278 nikujaga148 Pacific saury sushi 344
one-pot seafood udon 277 sauteed onions with natto 66 pickled red ginger 330, 331
Osakakitsunesoba287 steamed onions with bacon 194 quick mustard-pickled eggplant 324
oyster nabe355 onsentomago: bukkaktudon 422 quick pickled daikonwith daikonleaves
romen 284, 285 orange, new potatoes with sour plum and 73 243,342
shiratakibundles 128 oroshiganeloroshiki4-44 quick rice bran-pickled daikon341
shiratakinoodles with cod roe 98 Osakakitsunesoba 287 quick salt-picL:.led cabbage 338
soba 286 oshimugi [flattened barley] 436 quick shiootllke326, 327
spinach and enokiwith smashed tofu otachibana436 rice bran - pickled cabbage 338
82 , 83 ovens 376 salt - fermented mustard greens 333
spinach and udon soup 282 , 283 overnight pickled napa cabbage 336 salt-fermented napa cabbage 339
spinach with walnuts 67 '!lakodon316 salt-fermented summer vegetables
su©"ozo
279 oysters 328,329
sukjyaki370, 371 chicken and seafood nabe351 soy-pickled daikon405
udon 280 oyster and miso nabe354 soy-pickled wasabitops 322
udonwith chicken and negi278 oyster nobe 355 soy sauce-pickled cucumbers 324, 325
vegetarian ramen418 oysters in sweet vinegar withyuzu 98, 99 soy sauce-pickled daikon345
wild boar misonabe369 soy sauce-pickled garlic 332
nori 436 , 443 p soy sauce-pickled shisobud s 330
brown rice, nori, and boiled egg 416 Pacific saury sushi 344 spicy napa cabbage pickles 336, 337
daikonshiokoji"steak" with gingered nori sauce pancakes: okonomjyaki417 three-way vinegar-pickled myoga324
402 panko [air-dried breadcrumbs] 228, 436-7 pimon 431, 437
fried chicken meatballs with nori 251 peaches 18 cabbage with hot sesame vinegar 48, 49
kabu, awasemisobroth , chrysanthemum, and peanuts 437 green chile relish 333
nori 4ro eggplant and peanut soup 166, 167 green pepper kinpira216
mountain yam with edamameand nori peanut manju 382 green pepper miso 39
94, 95 peanut "tofu" 384 green pepper relish 334
INDEX
kabocha croquettes 236, 237 raisins shiso-perfumed rice 302, 303
miso- fried eggplant and green pepper apple bread 377 shrimp and pea rice 316, 317
218,219 kobon:,ok; 378 sour plum -s cattered sushi 294, 295
miso-simmered pork belly and green pepper mk~o 437 sushi pouches 310
372, 373 ramen276, 284, 285 sushi rice 291
teppon:1aki270, 271 vegetarian ramen 418 taro rice 308
pine needle-grilled snapper 260, 261 ramson, agedashitofu with pickled and fresh 412 y~u rice with mitsuba306, 307
pine nuts with smashed ume 399 rangiri446 y~ rice with nanohana306
ponz:u437 Rausukonbu 437 rice bran
poppy seeds, konrgalrnwith 36 raw90-103 quick rice bran - pickled daikon341
pork chopped sardines with miso 102, 103 rice bran-pickled cabbage 338
curry rice 297 citrus- and ume- dressed daikonand sardines rice lwji
daikonand pork soboronabe369 102 ama.take388
dashi-sim mered cabbage rolls 134, 135 grated daikonwith salmon roe 96, 97 green chile relish 333
fi.ve-c olor udon 282 konF9akusashimi with sesame miso94 green pepper relish 334
ginger pork and mustard greens soup mountain yam with edamameand nori 94, 95 Pacifi.c saury sushi 344
182,183 mustard-dressed sq uid and cucumber Rishirikonbu 437
Italian -sty le soybeans 138 JOO , 101 Ryukyu, 24
katsudon315 oysters in sweet vinegar withy~u 98, 99
layered napa cabbage 204 sea pineapple and cucumber in s
lotus "croquettes" 242 sweet vinegar 93 soibashi444
miso-infused meat and vegetables 215 shimesaba93 Sakamoto, Shinichiro 404 - 6
miso-simmered pork belly and green pepper shiratakinoodles with cod roe 98 '"'' 19, 22, 30, 106, 208, 320, 437
372, 373 .squid and jellyfi.sh with mustard vinegar 100 curry-pid.led daikon341
nikujaga148 vinegared mackerel with daikon96 flowering greens in sake-soy 62, 63
okonomjyaki272, 273 437
r(!)'U green chile relish 333
one-pot pork and napa cabbage 366, 367 red shisorice 304, 305 tare 414
pork and cabbage nabe 358 red snapper whipped tofu, melon, and sakegranita 416
pork and mustard greens soup with miso 178 clear fi.sh broth 160 Sakoku Edict 22
pork belly with green beans 146, 147 creamy soy milk snapper 137 sakuraebi 438
rice bowl with ground meat 304 eggplant soup, snapper, sea grapes, and salads 60
rice croquettes 248, 249 "])'Oga 394 broccoli and radish salad 74
silky bean sprouts 220 pine needle-grilled snapper 260, 261 burdock salad 41
silky napa cabbage layered with ground meat salt-grilled snapper 262 chilled chicken salad with misodressing 420
205 seafood suk,!)laki
360 daikonand tuna salad 32
simmered hijikiseaweed 123 shiso-wrapped pan-grilled snapper 48 notto- topped vegetable salad 84, 85
simmered pork belly 146 Redman, Brett 414-16 okarapotato salad 87
soy sauce-simmered daikonand pork 145 relishes potato salad with black sesame 50, 51
stir-fried negiwith miso 216, 217 green chile relish 333 salad sushi 293
sulg)'o.ta279 green pepp er relish 334 smoked mackerel with colorful radish salad
porridge rice 18, 19, 276, 288-317, 428, 430, 432 392
dri ed doikonlea f porridge 314 amazy1ke
388 stamina salad 66
mochiporridge 312 bamboo ric e 300, 301 summer chicken salad 72
potatoes bo{.ushi405 summer salad with dumplings 68
carrot soup 161 brown rice 291 tomato, ume, and red shirosalad 415
curry rice 297 brown rice, nori, and boiled egg 416 salmon
koban-yaki378 chicken and vegetable mixed rice 310, 3u salmon croquettes 250
new potatoes with sour plum and orang e crab and egg yolk rice bowl with aonorisalt salmon nobe356, 357
73 and kinome411 shiso-perfumed rice 302, 303
nikujaga148 cultivation and consumption 24-5 salmon roe , grated daikonwith 96, 97
okarapotato salad 87 curry rice 297 salt 18 , 320, 438
potato salad with black sesame 50, 51 dried daikonleaf fried rice 312, 313 aonorisalt 411
potato starch 437 dried daikonleaf porridge 314 miso-pickled daikon340
salmon croquettes 250 fi.sh sauce-grilled rice balls 294 quick salt-pick.led cabbage 338
spinach gratin 256, 257 fried miso ric e balls 244 salt-fermented mustard greens 333
summer vl":getable tempura238, 239 garlic rice 300 salt-fermented napa cabbage 339
poultry, steaming 186 ginger rice 308 salt-fermented summer vegetables 328, 329
prawns (shrimp) ginger-soy chicken rice bowl 314 salt-grilled snapper 262
black sesame-grilled spot prawns 262,263 goheimochi385 salt-grilled turban shells 260
chicken and seafood nabt 351 green pea rice 300 salted sour plums see umeboshi
napa cabbage rolls simmered in tomato 131 grilled hake with spiced skin and green samurai 21
one-pot seafood udon 277 surinagashi413 sansholeaves 438
pine needle-grilled snapper 260, 261 Japanese rice 291 sansholeaf rice 302
savory egg custard pots 192, 193 katsudon315 sanshopepper 18, 438
seafood sukjyaki360 kinokogohan421 sardines
shrimp and pea rice 316, 317 kon'}Yakuand rice soup 171 chopped sardines with miso 102, 103
shrimp ball nabt 356 k'2Yadon309 citrus- and ume- dressed doilronand sardines
preserving methods 24 mochiporridg e 312 l02
pressed sushi 296 oh,w 378, 379 pan-fried fi.sh balls 251
qyakodon316 rolled sardine sushi 297
Q Pacifi.c saury sushi 344 sardine chankonabe352
quail eggs pressed sushi 296 sardines fried with pickled red ginger 246
fried dried persimmons 230 red shisorice 304, 305 sardines simmered with umeboshi142, 14,3
and chicken balls 36, 37
quail c.":ggs rice bowl with ground m ea t 304 sardines with carrot-tomato sauce 210, 211
rice croquettes 248, 249 vinegared sardines 110
R rice with daikongreens 296 446
sCllogok;
"raccoon dog" soup 172, 173 rolled sardine sushi 297 sasami[chicken tenders]
radishes salad sushi 293 one-pot chicken with udon 278
broccoli and radish salad 74 sansholeaf rice 302 sesame-dressed greens and carrots 76, 77
smoked mackerel with colorful radish salad scattered sushi 292 soy milk chawanmushi190, 191
392 sekihon298, 299 taro rice 308
457 INDEX
sashimi 92, 276 shiitake439 "raccoon dog" soup 172, 173
bonito sashimi with butterbur misoand shiso boudin noir and nara.tt1ke stuffed roasted silky vegetable soup 170
400 shiitake393 soybean soup I 7 8, 179
kinmedaisashimi, 119ogo and fried shiso407 chicken and mushroom terrine 54 sumo - style chicken soup 155
kon'9'akusashimi with sesame miso94 clam broth soup 158, 159 sweet potato country soup 168, 169
dried daikonleaf fried rice 312, 3 13
SC!JOri: cucumber and shiitakein sesame-vinegar tamagotoji soup 419
scallions nB, 119 taro root country soup 182
ginger-scallion oil 418 grilled shiitake,c;itrus soy ,JutU, and oba 408 tempuradipping broth 157
turnip, komatsuna,scallion, and apple 423 quick tepPan:,aki 270 vegetarian ramen418
scallops simmered shiitakeand sweet potato 124, 125 shishitopeppers
seafood sukjyaki360 soy dashi-simmcr ed mushrooms 151 nasuand shishitokinpira420
simmered scallops and figs 399 tamagotoji soup 419 quick tepPan:,aki 270
steamed egg custard pots 190 shikuwasa:chawanmushi, uni, shikuwasa, and sobacha shiso-wrapped shishitopepp ers 39
scattered sushi 292 4°9 5him [p erill~] 9Q, 438, 439, 440
seafood shimesaba 93 bonito sashimi with butterbur misoand shiso
chicken and seafood nabe351 grilled shimesabawith sweet persimmon miso 400
one-pot seafood udon 277 sauce 403 green pepper miso 39
seafood sukjyaki360 shimeji439 kinmedaisashimi,myogaand fried shiso407
sea grapes: eggplant soup, snapper, sea grapes, country miso soup 168 miso-pickled shisobuds and 119oga332
and myoga394 soy dashi-simmered mushrooms 151 shiso-scented miso39
sea pineapple and cucumber in sweet vinegar stir-fried spinach and mushrooms 212, 213 shiso-perfumed rice 302, 303
93 JU{J.1-dressed spinach 44, 4-5 shiso-wrapped pan-grilled snapper 48
sea urchin - glazed flounder 256 shimi daikon439 shiso-wrapped shishitopeppers 39
seaweed 431 Shinto 25 soy sauce - pickled shisobuds 330
simmered hijikiseaweed 123 shiokara19 summer salad with dumplings 68
seimenki444 shiokoji"steak", daikon 402 tomato, ume, and red shisosalad 415
sekihan298, 299 shirako:lily bulb and shirakotempurawith shochu22, 440
sengiri446 matcha salt 401 shojinryori20
Sepia Restaurant 407 shirasu[whitebait]: dashi egg with garlic chives 42 Shoshitsu, Sen Senso 23
seri Uapanes e wild parsley] 439 shiratakinoodles 439 shottsuru440
mustard-pick.led Japane se parsley 321 crab and yuba misonabe 406 sh'!Yuseesoy sauce
sesame oil 60, 438 lcabocha with smashed tofu 86 shrimp (prawns)
sesame paste: gomadofo 54, 55 milky chicken and vegetable soup 351 black sesame-grilled spot prawns 262, 263
sesame seeds 276, 438-9 nikujaga148 chicken and seafood nabe351
asparagus with sesame-vinegar dressing oyster nabe355 napa cabbage rolls simmered in tomato 131
II4, 115 seafood sukjyaki360 one - pot seafood udon 277
black sesame-grilled spot prawns 262, 263 shiratakibundles 128 pine needle-grilled snapper 260, 261
burdock in sesame-vinegar 117 shiratakinoodles with cod roe 98 savory egg custard pots 192, 193
cabbage with hot sesame vinegar 48, 49 spinach and enokiwith smashed tofu 82, 83 seafood sukjyaki368
carrot with smashed tofu and sesame 64 spinach with walnuts 67 shrimp and pea rice 316, 317
crispy green beans in sesame 74, 75 sukjyaki370, 371 shrimp ball nabe 356
cucumber and bean sprouts in wild boar misonabe369 shungiku [edible chrysanthemum greens] 440
sesame-vinegar 114 shiromiso439 ginger-infused greens and vegetables 64, 65
cucumber and shiitakein sesame-vinegar .shiroshf?Yu439 herring and chrysanthemum soup 176
118,119 shirumono152-83 misochicken balls and napa soup 363
daikonpeel kinpira32, 33 amadashi397 one-pot pork and napa cabbage 366, 367
daikonwith sesame-vinegar n7 cabbage misosoup 162 oyster and miso nabe 354
deep-fried daikonwith black sesame car r ot soup 161 oyster nabe355
230, 231 clam broth 158 sukiyaki370, 371
eggplant in sesame miso78, 79 clam broth soup 158, 159 sumo-style chicken soup 155
gohei mochi385 clear fish broth 160 silken-style tofu 440
green beans with smashed tofu and sesame cold prevention soup 180, 181 silky bean sprouts 220
Bo, 81 country misosoup 168 silky napa cabbage layered with ground meat
greens and chrysanthemum petals with dashi397 205
sesame 73 deep - fried tofu pouch soup 161 silky vegetable soup 170
grilled sesame chicken 266 eggplant and peanut soup 166, 167 silky winter melon 137
kabocha with smashed tofu 86 eggplant soup, snapper, sea grapes, simmered 120--51
kon19akusashimi with sesame miso 94 and myoga394 bamboo shoot with katsuobushi151
9'urimomin6 fish dumpling soup with miso174 buridaikon144
ohagi378, 379 garlic chive soup 174, 175 creamy napa cabbage 136
Okinawan-style sesame donuts 386, 387 ginger pork and mustard greens soup creamy soy milk. snapper 137
potato salad with black sesame 50, 51 182,183 daikonwith soy-simmered chicken 142
sesame-dressed greens and carrots 76, 77 grated daikonand mushroom soup 180 dashi- simmered cabbage rolls 134, 135
spinach and enokiwith smashed tofu grilled eggp lant misosoup 164 dashi-simmered taro root 126, 127
82, 83 herring and chrysanthemum soup 176 dashi-steamed eggs with spinach 126
stamina salad 66 hot noodle broth 157 fragrant miso-simmered daikon128, 129
steamed eggplant with sesame 76 irikodashi157 Italian-style soybeans 138
stir-fried eggp la nt with ginger and sesame Japanese chicken broth 160 kenchintofu-stuffed napa cabbage 130
210 Japanese egg drop soup 176, 177 miso- simmered beef and burdock 150
stir-fried lotus root 214 koeshi156, 397 miso-simmered mackerel 144
taro stems in sesame-vinegar dressing TI6 karaidashi 398 napa cabbage rolls simmered in tomato 131
tofu flavored six ways 88 , 89 katsuobushidashi156 nikujaga148
tricolored vegetables in sesame-vinegar kenchinjiru171 oden 150
dressing 112, 113 konbudashi156 pork belly with green beans 146 , 147
ume-dressed turnips 70, 71 kon19akuand rice soup 171 sardines simmered with umeboshi142, 143
seven - spice chicken 52, 53 misosoup with grated car rot 162, 163 shiratakibundles 128
shamoji444 misosoup with poached egg 164, 165 silky winter melon 137
shellfish 18 notto soup 166 simmered burdock with walnuts 138
shiba.tuke,quick 326, 327 New Year soup 170 simmered chicken and vegetables 140 , 14-1
shichimitogarashi439 noodle dipping broth 157 simmered daikonand yellowtail collar 145
shichirin254, 445 pork and mustard greens soup with miso 178 simmered daikonwith miso 124
INDEX
simmered dried daikonthreads 123 seealso doshi chicken and vegetable stuffed kabocha
simmered herring with dried daikon139 sour plums [umeboshi] 200,201
simmered hijikiseaweed 123 citrus- and ume-dressed daikonand sardines chrysanthemum petal-steamed fish balls
simmered pork belly 146 102 194, 195
simmered scallops and figs 399 fried eggplant with sour plum 238 cold steamed chicken 198, 199
simmered shiifakeand sweet potato 124, 125 konbuwith umeboshi34 layered napa cabbage 204
soy dashi-simmered mushrooms 151 new potatoes with sour plum and orange 73 layered napa cabbage and spinach 187
soy sauce-simmered daikonand pork 145 pine nuts with smashed ume 399 layered napa cabbage with green beans 203
soy-simmered beef and burdock 148, 14-9 sardines simmered with umeboshi142, 14,3 miso-flavored onion 188
sweet soy-simmered flounder 139 sour plum-scattered sushi 294, 295 miso-stuffed steamed turnips 188, 189
tofu - stuffed cabbage rolls 132, 133 sour plum-steamed cod 196, 197 napa cabbage and spinach rolls 187
skewers 444 tomato, ume, and red shisosalad 415 savory egg custard pots 192,193
ginkgo nuts on skewers 31 udo and chicken steamed with sour plums 192 silky napa cabbage layered with ground meat
1Skipjacktuna 92 ume-drcsscd turnips 70, 71 205
snapper soybean pu lp [akora]436 sour plum - steamed cod 196, 197
clear fish broth 160 akaropotato salad 87 soy milk chowanmushi190, 191
creamy soy milk snapper 137 simmered pork belly 146 steamed egg custard pots 190
eggplant soup. snapper, sea grapes, stir-fried okaraand vegetables 212 steamed grated turnip 202
and "!Yoga394 soybeans 18, 25, 440 steamed mountain yam with nori 196
pine needle-grilled snapper 260, 261 ltalian-style soybeans 138 steamed onions with bacon 194
salt-grilled snapper 262 soyb ean croquettes 250 stuffed kabocha 198
seafood sukjyaki360 soybean soup 178 , 179 udo and chicken steamed with sour plums 192
shiso-wrapped pan-grilled snapper 48 tofu 56, 57 steamers 186
snow peas (mangetout): taro rice 308 soy milk440 stir-fries 206-25
so 25 creamy soy milk snapper 137 egg threads 222
sobagaki21 soy milk and cocoa gelee 382, 383 green pepper kinpira2 I 6
sobagqyu21 soy milk chawanmushi190, 191 Japanese-style scrambled eggs 223
soba noodles 21, 276, 440 soy millr..gratin 398 miso-infused meat and vegetables 215
Osakakitsunesoba287 soy sauce [sh<!Ju] 19-20, 22, 92, 320, 440 miso-fried eggplant and green pepper
Soba Ra 397 daikanwith soy-simmered chicken 142 218, 219
Saba Ro 397 flowering greens in sake-soy 62, 63 rolled egg omelet 222
sobacha,chawanmushi, uni, shikuwasa,and 409 ginger - soy chicken rice bowl 314 rolled spinach omelet 220, 221
soboronabe, daikanand pork 369 green chi.le relish 333 sardines with carrot - tomato sauce 210, 211
ropgiri 446 gri1led shiitake,citrU5 soy,yutt1, and oba 408 sautied vegetables with chicken liver and
somennoodles 21,276,440 kaeshi397 tofu 215
fried kabocha balls 235 soy doshi-simmered mushrooms 151 silky bean sprouts 220
island somenwith red chile and garlic chives soy-pickled daikon405 stir-fried burdock and carrot 218
280, 28 1 soy - pickled W{lsabi
tops 322 stir-fried burdock with tofu 209
soups 152-83 soy sauce-pickled cucumbers 324, 325 stir-fried chicken and garlic chives 224, 225
omadashi397 soy sauce-pickled daikon345 stir-fried chicken and vegetables 224
cabbage misosoup 162 soy sauce-pickled garlic 332 stir-fried egg with beef 2 2 3
carrot soup 161 soy sauce-pickled shisobuds 330 stir-fried eggplant with ginger and sesame
clam broth 158 soy sauce-simmered daikonand pork 145 210
clam broth soup 158, 159 soy-simmered beef and burdock 148, 14,9 stir - fried kabocha 214
dear fish broth 160 spinach and chrysanthemum petals in stir - fried lotus root 214
cold prevention soup 180, 181 soy dashi61 stir-fried ntgi with miso216, 217
country misosoup 168 sweet soy-grilled Spanish mackere l 264 stir-fried okaraand vegetables 212
deep-fried tofu pouch soup 161 sweet soy-simmered flounder 139 stir-fried spinach and mushrooms 212, 213
eggplant and peanut soup 166, 167 udonkaeshi424 stir-fried vegetables with burdock 209
eggplant soup, snapper, sea grapes, Spanish mackerel, sweet soy - grilled 264 sudachi441
and myoga394 spicy miso-pickled garlic chicken 52 seven - spice chicken 52, 53
fish dumpling soup with miso 174 spicy napa cabbage pickles 336, 337 su~oza 279
garlic chive soup 174, 175 spicy steamed carrot stems 31 sukjyaki370, 371
ginger pork and mustard greens soup 182, 183 spinach seafood sukjyaki360
grated daikonand mushroom soup 180 clam broth soup 158, 159 summer chicken salad 72
grilled eggp lant misosoup 164, 165 creamy soy milk snapper 137 summer salad with dumplings 68
herring and chrysanthemum soup 176 Joshi- steamed eggs with spinach 126 summer vegetable tempura238, 239
hot noodle broth 157 ginger - infused greens and vegetables sumo - style chicken soup 155
irikodashi157 64, 65 sunomono60, 104-19
Japanese chicken broth 154, 160 greens and chrysanthemum petals with asparagus with sesame-vinegar dressing
Japanese egg drop soup 176, 177 sesame 73 114, 115
kabu, Ult10semisobroth, chrysanthemum, layered napa cabbage and spinach 187 burdock in sesame-vinegar 117
and nori 410 napa cabbage and spinach rolls 187 cucumber and bean sprouts in
kaeshi156, 397 one - pot seafood udon 277 sesame - vinegar 114
kenchinjiru171 rolled spinach omelet 220, 221 cucumber and shiitakein sesame - vinegar
kon'9oku and rice soup 171 spinach and chrysanthemum petals in 118,119
misosoup with grated carrot 162, 163 soy dashi61 daikonand dried persimmon with mitsuba107
misosoup with poached egg 164 spinach and enokiwith smashed tofu daikonwith sesame-vinegar II 7
notto soup 166 82, 83 dried daikonand dried squid in vinegar u8
New Year soup 170 spinach and udonsoup 282, 283 9urimomi 116
noodle dipping broth 157 spinach gratin 256, 257 sweet vinegared turnips 112
pork and mustard greens soup with mi50178 5pinach with walnuts 67 taro stems in sesame-vinegar dressing 116
"raccoon dog" soup 172, 173 stir-fried spinach and mushrooms 212, 213 tricolored vegetables in sesame-vin egar
sillcy vegetab le soup 170 yutu-dressed spinach 44, 45 dressing 112, 113
soybean soup 178, 179 squid udo and wakamein vinegar 108
sumo - style chicken soup 155 dried daikonand dried squid in vinegar n8 vinegared crab and cucumber with yutU
sweet potato country soup 168, 169 mustard - dressed squid and cucumber no, 111
tamagofoji soup 419 100, JOI vinegared cucumber and crab with ginger
taro root country soup 182 squid and jellyfish with mustard vinegar 100 110
tempuradipping broth 157 stamina salad 66 vinegared octopus and wakame108, 109
vegetarian rumen418 steamed 184-205 vinegared sardines 110
459 INDEX
vinegared turnips with dried persimmons tofu 21, 56, 57, 122, 435, 440, 441-2 fish sauce-pickled eggplant 326
107 agedashitofu 232, 233 green chile relish 333
suribachi20-1, 445 agedashitofu with grated daikon232 green pepper relish 334
surikogi445 agedashitofu with pickled and fresh ramson horse mackerel sushi 346, 347
surinogashi,grilled hak e with spiced skin and 412 miso-pickled daikon 340
green 413 carrot with smashed tofu and sesame 64 miso-pickled egg yolk 322
surumeika 441 carrot with smashed tofu and walnuts 80 miso-pickled ginger 328
sushi chicken and vegetable stuffed kabocha miso-pickled shisobuds and 11!)'0ga 332
horse mackerel sushi 346, 34-7 200,201 miso-picl<led takuan 342
Pacific saury sushi 344 cold prevention soup 180, 181 miso-pickled turnips 334, 335
pressed sushi 296 country misosoup 168 mustard and vinegar-pickled eggp lant 321
rolled sardine sushi 297 crab and misonabe 358, 359 mustard-pickled Japanese parsley 321
sour plum-scattered sushi 294, 295 dashi-simmered deep-fried ganmodoki234 overnight pickled napa cabbage 336
sushi pouches 310 hddlehead ferns with smashed tofu and Pacific saury sushi 344
sushi rice 291 walnuts 84 pickled red ginger 330, 331
sweet potatoes 22, 441 fri ed kabocha balls 235 quick mustard-pickled eggplant 324
kenchinjiru171 green beans with smashed tofu and sesame quiclc. pick.led daikonwith daikonleaves 34 2,343
oven-roasted sweet potatoes 254 Bo, 81 quicl rice bran-pickled daikon341
simmered shiitake and sweet potato 124, 125 kabocha with smashed tofu 86 quick salt-pickled cabbage 338
steamed apples and sweet potatoes 377 kenchin tofu-stuffed napa cabbage 130 quick shtba-tuke326, 327
sweet potato country soup 168, 169 kenchinjiru171 rice bran - pickled cabbage 338
sweet potato with lemon dressing 68 , 69 k'!Yadon309 salt-fermented mustard greens 333
sweets 374-89 misoand mackerel chankonabe368 salt-fermented napa cabbage 339
ama{ake388 misochicken balls and napa soup 363 salt-fermented summer vegetables 328, 329
apple bread 377 misooden 364 soy-pickled daikon405
carrot cake 388, 389 one-pot pork and napa cabbage 366, 367 soy-pickled wasabitops 322
figs, crepes, chestnut ice cream, oyster and misonabe 354 soy sauce - pickled cucumbers 324, 325
tangerine caramel 395-6 oyster nabe 355 soy sauce-pickled daikon345
goheimochi385 quid: mi.tutoki360, 361 soy sauce-pickled garlic 332
green tangerine caramel sauce 396 salmon nabe356, 357 soy sauce- pickl ed shisobuds 330
koban-:Jaki378 sautCed vegetables with chicken liver and tofu spicy napa cabbage pickles 336,337
maryu380, 381 215 three-way vinegar-pickled 17!YOga
324
ohagi378, 379 seafood sukjyaki360 tsukemono yoki 445
Okinawan-style sesame donuts 386, 387 soft tofu 56 tsukune414
peanut manju 382 spinach and enokiwith smashed tofu 82, 83 buma 92
peanut "tofu" 384 steamed egg custard pots 190 tuna
soy mill: and cocoa gclCe 382, 383 stir-fried burdock with tofu 209 burdock. salad 41
steamed apples and sweet potatoes 377 stuffed kabocha 198 crispy fried tuna nuggets 421
sweet miso-glazed tofu bars 385 sukjyoki370, 371 daikonand tuna salad 32
whipped tofu, melon , and sakegranita 416 sweet miso-glazed tofu bars 385 turban shells, salt-grilled 260
yokan 386 sweet potato country soup 168, 169 turnip greens: "raccoon dog" soup 172, 173
taro root country soup 182 turnips442
T tofu flavored six ways 88, 89 grilled dud, breast with turnip 268, 269
takana:salt-fermented mustard greens 333 tofu-stuffed cabbage rolls 132, 133 miso-pickled turnips 334, 335
takuan 441 whipped tofu , melon, and sakegranita 416 miso-stuffed steamed turnips 188, 189
miso-pickled takuan 342 yudofu 352, 353 silky vegetable soup 170
tamagotoji soup 419 tofu pouches, deep - fried [usuage]442 steamed grated turnip 202
tamagoyakinabe445 cabbage misosoup 162 sweet vinegared turnips 112
tamari441 deep-fried tofu pouch soup 161 turnip, komatsuna,scallion, and apple 423
tangerines: green tangerine caramel sauce green beans with smashed tofu and sesame ume-dress ed turnips 70, 71
395-6 Bo , 81 vinegared turnips with dried persimmons
ta~aku-giri 446 grilled natto pouches 259 107
tara no melkoshi abura441 kenchinjiru171
tare414 shiratakibundles 128 u
taro roots and stems 441, 443 silky vegetable soup 170 uchikoflour 442
country misosoup 168 simmered dried daikonthreads 123 uchiwa445
Joshi-simmered taro root 126, 127 sushipouches 310 udo442
kenchinjiru171 sumo-style chicken soup 155 udo and chick.en steamed with sour plums
simmered chicken and vegetables 140 , 141 sweet potato country soup 168, 169 192
sweet potato country soup 168, 169 taro root country soup 182 udo and wakamein vinegar 108
taro rice 308 taro stems in sesame-vinegar dressing 116 udon 21, 276, 280
taro root country soup 182 tofu-stuffed cabbage rolls 132, 133 bukkakeudon 422
taro stems in sesame-vinegar dressing 116 tofu-:cukuriki 445 five-c olor udon 282
tawashi 445 toga,ashi439, 442 Japanese chicken noodle soup 287
tea ceremony 22 Tokugawa, lemitsu 22 nikomiudon 279
tempura22, 228 tomato es 442 one - pot chicken with udon 278
lily bulb and shirako tempura with matcha salt eggplant with tomato meat sauce 50 one-pot seafood udon 277
401 napa cabbage roHs simmered in tomato 131 spinach and udonso up 282 , 283
summer vegetable tempura238, 239 sardines with carrot-tomato sauce 2I0, 211 udonkaeshi424
tempuradipping broth 157 summer chicken salad 72 udonwith chicken and negi278
tengusa441 summer salad with dumplings 68 umeboshi/ume(salted sour plums ] 442
teppan-yaki254, 270, 271 tomato, ume, and red shisosalad 415 citrus - and ume-dressed daikonand sardines
quick teppan-:Jaki270 tororo konbu 442 l02
le/>J>ogu
shi 445 ts'!Yupin255 fried eggp lant with sour plum 238
terjyaki254 tsukemono318-4 7 konbuwith umeboshi34
mackerel terjyaki264 , 265 achara-style carrot pickles 322, 323 new potatoes with sour plum and orange 73
terrines agedashitofu with pickled and fresh ramson pine nuts with smashed ume 399
chicken and mushroom terrine 54 412 sardines simmered with umeboshi142, 143
chicken terrine 255 beer - pickled daikon345 sour plum- sca ttered sushi 294, 295
teshoku154 curry-pickled daikon341 sour plum - steamed cod 196, 197
tetsubashi445 dried daikonpickled in three -way vinegar 340 tomato , ume, and red shisosalad ,}15
460 INDEX
udoand chicken steamed with sour plums 192 taro stems in sesame-vinegar dressing 116 Yuyado Sakamoto 404
ume-dressed turnips 70, 71 three-way vin ega r-pickled myogo324 yudofu 352, 353
umesu442 tricolored vegetables in sesame-vinegar y=443
uni [sea urchin] tongu es: chowan mushi, uni, dres sing IJ2, 113 clam broth sou p 158, 159
shikuwasa,and sobacha409 udo and 100kamein vinegar 108 grilled shiitake,citrus soy,yu.{u, and oba 408
urogoshi445 vinegared crab and cucumber with yu.tU oysters in sweet vinegar with JU{l..l 98, 99
usuoge[deep-fried tofu pouches] 442 IIO, Ill vinegared crab and cucumberwithyuzu 110, III
cabbage misosoup 162 vinegared cucumber and crab with ginger yuba withyt.lU' juice 41
deep-fried tofu pouch soup 161 no yu.tU-dressed spinach 44, 45
green beans with smashed tofu and sesame vinegared mackerel with daikon96 JlttU rice with mitsubo306, 307
Bo, 81 vinegared octopus and wakame108, 109 JlttU rice with nanohana306
gr illed natto pouches 259 vinegared sardines IIO yU{llkosho443
kenchinjiru171 vinegared turnips with dried persimmon s 107
shiratakibundle:s 128 z
silky vegetable soup 170 w <Pkugiri446
simme red dried daikonthreads 123 wagiri446 ,.,.445
sushipouches 310 wakame443 Zen Buddhism 21
sumo-style chicken soup 155 udo and wakamein vinegar 108 ten.soi 28-57, 60
sweet potato country soup 168, 169 vinegared octopus and wakame108, 109 burdock salad 41
taro root country soup 182 walnuts 431 burdock with cod roe 42, 43
taro stems in sesame-vinegar dressing 116 carrot with smas hed tofu and walnuts 80 buttered negi31
tofu-stuffed cabbage rolls 132, 133 -fiddlehead ferns with smashed tofu and cabbage with h ot sesame vinegar 48, 49
usugiri446 walnuts 84 chicken and mushroom terrine 54
usukuchishqyu443 kolxm-yaki 378 daikonand tuna salad 32
udon kaeshi424 simmered burdock with walnuts 138 daikonpeel kinpira32, 33
sp inach with walnuts 67 daikonwith sweet miso40
V sweet potato with lemon dressing 68, 69 dashi egg with garlic chives 42
vegetables 20, 122 walnut-dressed chrysanthemum petals 78 eggplant with smashed edamame40
aburamiso208 wan445 eggplant with tomato meat sauce 50
chicken and vegetable mixed rice 310, 311 wasabi92, 443 ginkgo nuts on skewers 31
chicken and vegetable stuffed kabocha soy-pickled wasabitops 322 gomadofu 54, 55
200,201 wasonbon443 green pepper miso 3 9
fried vegetables 228 washiUapa nese paper] 445 kelp- and vinegar-wicked nanohana38
Genghis Khan 365 watercress: grilled hak e with spiced skin and lelp-widc.ed nanohana38
ginger-infused greens and vegetables 64, 65 green surinagashi413 konbuwith umeboshi34
kinpira208 Wei.zlii17 konbu-wrapped kon'!)'aku34
milky chicken and vegetable so up 351 wheat 18 kon'!)'akuwith poppy seeds 36
mfso-infused meat and vegetables 215 whitebait [shirasu];dashiegg with garlic chives 42 mitsubaroot kinpira44
natto-to pped vegetable salad 84, 85 wild boar misonabe369 natto with egg and garlic chives 46
oden 150 potato salad with black sesame 50, 51
salt-fermented summer vegetables y quail eggs and chicken balls 36, 37
328,329 yakinori 443 rolled crab and nori omelet 46, 47
sautCed vegetab les with chicken liver and yakimono 252-73 seven - spice chicken 52, 53
tofu 215 black sesame-grilled spot prawns 262, 263 shiso-sccnted miso 39
scattered sushi 292 chick en terrine 255 shiso-wrapped pan-grilled snapper 48
silky vegetab le soup 170 foil-wrapped crab and eggplant 258 shiso-wrapped shishitopeppers 39
simmered chicken and vegetables 140 , 14-1 foil-grilled garlic 258 spicy miso-picltled garlic chicken 52
soy milk gratin 398 grilled corn 415 spicy steamed carrot stems 31
steaming vegetables 186 grilled duck breast with turnip 268, 269 stir - fried fava beans 34, 35
stewed chicken and vegetables 362 grilled hake with spiced slin and tofu 56, 57
stir - fried chic ken and vegetables 224 green surinagashi413 yuba with JU{Ujuice 41
stir -fried okaroand vegetabl es 212 grilled notto pouches 259 yu{u-dressed spinach 44, 45
stir-fried vegetables with burdock 209 grilled sesame chicken 266 tuiki [dried taro stems] 443
summer vegetable tempura238, 239 grilled shiitoke,citrus soy,ylL{U,and obo 408 taro stems in sesame-vin egar dressing 116
tricolored vegetables in sesame-vinegar grilled shimesabawith sweet persimmon <Unda,ohagi 378, 379
dressing 112, 113 misosauce 403
vegetarian ramen 418 mackerel terjyaki264, 265
seealsocarrots; daikon mi.so-marinated grilled cod 268
vegetarian ramen 418 okonomjyaki272, 273
vinegared 22, 60, 104-19, 428, 437 oven-roasted sweet potatoes 254
asparagus with sesame-vinegar dressing pine needle-grilled snapper 260, 261
114, 115 quick teppan-yaki270
burdock in sesame-vinegar 117 salt - grilled snapper 262
cabbage with hot sesame vinegar 48, 49 salt-grilled turban shells 260
cucumber and bean sprouts in sea urchin-glazed flounder 256
sesame-vi negar 114 spinach gratin 256, 257
cucumber and shiitakein sesame-vinegar sweet miso-grilled eggplant 259
118,119 sweet soy-grilled Spanish mackerel 264
daikonand dried pers immon with mitsuba107 teppan-yaki 270, 271
daikonwith sesame -vinegar 117 tsoyupin255
dried daikonand dried squid in vinegar n8 yaWo,i 254, 254, 266, 267
dried daikonpickled in three-way vinegar 340 yokilori 254, 254, 266, 267
9'urimomiu6 yakumi 276
kelp- and vinegar-wicked nonohana38 Yayoi Period (CA 400-BCE 200 CE) 18-19
mustard and vinegar - pickled eggplant 321 yellowtail
oysters in sweet vinegar withyU{l.l98, 99 buri daikon144
sea pineapple and cu cumber in simmered daikonand yellowtail collar 145
sweet vinegar 93 yokan 376, 386
squid and jelly-fish with mustard vinegar yuba QI, 443
IOO crab andyuba misonabe406
sweet vinegared turnips 112 yuba with yu..tujuice 41
INDEX
NOTES & BIBLIOGRAPHY
CITATIONS Quote, page 17, Ishige, Naomichi . Sen Soshitsu XV (Hounsai),

TheHistoryand CultureofJapaneseFood. ed., SensoSoshitsuKoji no iho, Senso
(Oxford , U.K.: Kegan Paul Ltd. ShoshitsuKojiSan1!),aku
nen ki (Kyoto;
and Routledge , 2001) , 25-26 . Tankosha , 1996).
Menu, page 23, Rath, Eric C . and

Assman , Stephanie , eds . Japanese
FoodW'!)'S,
Pastand Present.(Urbana,
Chicago, and Springfield, IL :
University of Illinois Press, 2010), 72.
WORK REFERENCED Cwiertka , KatarzynaJ. Modem Itoh , Joan. JapaneseCookingNow,

JapaneseCuisine, Food,Powerand National TheRealThing. Tokyo: Zokeisha
Identi!J.London: Reaktion Books Publications, Ltd., 1980.
Ltd, 2006.
Japanese Culinary Academy.
Doi, Masaru. JapaneseOne-Pot Cookery, IntroductiontoJapaneseCuisine,Nature,
FriendJyand Festive
. Tokyo: Kodansha Historyand Culture.Tokyo, Shuhari
International Ltd. , 1966. Initiative Ltd., 2015 .
Gunma Editorial Board . Kawaguchi , Harumi. Dictionary

Japanese Food Culture: Gunma ofHealtlryFood.Tokyo: Tokyo Do
Dishes. Tokyo: Agriculture and Publisher, 1993.
Mountain Fishing Village Cultural
Association, 1990 . Martin, Peter and Joan . Japanese
Cooking.New York: ·Gramercy
Gunma Editorial Board. Publishing Company, 1970.
Japanese Food Culture: Ishikawa
Dishes. Tokyo: Agriculture and Rath, Eric C. and Assman,
Mountain Fishing Village Cultural Stephanie, eds. JapaneseFoodw'!)'s,
Association, 1988. Pastand Present.Urbana, Chicago,
and Springfield , IL University of
Gunma Editorial Board.Japanese Illinois Press, 2010.
Food Culture: Iwate Dishes. Tokyo:
Agriculture and Mountain Fishing Rudzinski , Russ. JapaneseCountry
Village Cultural Association , 1984 . Cookbook.San Francisco: Nitty-
Gritty Productions, 1969 .
Honma , Gaku. IheFolkArtofJapanese
CountryCooking,A TraditionalDietfor Smil, Vaclav and Kobayashi,
1od'!J''sWorld.Berkeley, CA : North Kazuhiko . Japan's DietaryTransitionand
Atlantic Books , 1991. Its Impacts.Cambridge, MA, MIT
Press , 2012.
Hosking, Richard. A Dictionary
ofJapaneseFood.Tokyo : Tuttle Watanabe, Teiko. Mother'sTaste,
Publishing, 1996. Ho/id'!}Foods and HomeCooking.
Morioka City, Iwate Prefecture:
Ishige, Naomichi. TheHistoryand Sharyo Kosoku Printing, 2005.
CultureofJapaneseFood.Oxford, U.K.:
Kegan Paul Ltd. and Routledge,
2001.
;i.M UI ffl NOTES & BIBLIOGRAPHY

RECIPE NOTES
Butter should always be unsalted, All milk is whole (3% fat) ,

unless otherwise spe cified . homogenized , and lightly
pasteurized , unless otherwise
All herbs are fresh, unless other- specified.
wise specified.
All salt is fine sea salt, unless
All-purpose (plain flour) is otherwise specified.
measured by a scoop - and - sweep _ _ ,/
method ; I cup = 51/• o~ Top-quality medium tofu (such
as Hodo Soy) can be substituted
Eggs are medium (UK small) for momendofuor Japanese-style soft
unless otherwise specified. block tofu for shira-ae [smashed
tofu] recipes. In that case, no need
Individual vegetables and fruits , to weight and squeeze ; process
such as onions and apples, are to a creamy texture in a food
assumed to be medium, unless processor , rather than smashing in
otherwi se specified. a suribachiUapanese grinding bowl] .
All heavy cream (whipping cream)

is 36-40% fat unless otherwise
specified.
COOKING NOTES
Cooking times are for guidance When no quantity is specified ,

only, as individual ovens vary. for example of oils, salts, and
If using a convection (fan) herbs used for finishing dishes
oven , follow the manufacturer's or for deep-frying, quantities are
instructions concerning oven discretionary and flexible.
temperature s.
All herbs, shoots , flowers , and
Exercise a high level of caution leaves should be picked fresh from
when following recipes involving a clean source.
any potentially hazardous
activity, including the use of high Exercise caution when foraging
temperatures, open flames, slaked for ingredients; any foraged ingre-
lime , and when deep-frying. In dients should only be eaten if an
particular, when deep-frying , add expert has deemed them safe to eat .
food carefully to avoid splashing ,
wear long sleeves, and never leave Both metric and imperial measures
the pan unattended. are used in this book. Follow one
set of measurements throughout ,
Some recipes include raw or very not a mixture , as they are not
lightly cooked eggs, meat, or interchangeable .
fish , and fermented products .
These should be avoided by the All spoon and cup measurements
elderly, infants, pregnant women, are level, unless otherwise stated.
convalescents, and anyone with an I teaspoon = 5 ml; I tablespoon = 15 ml.
impaired immune system.
Australian standard tablespoons are
Exercise caution when making 20 ml , so Australian readers are
fermented products , ensuring all advised to use 3 teaspoons in place
equipment is spotlessly clean, and of I tablespoon when measuring
seek expert advice if in any doubt. small quantities.
;:ifWUI ffl NOTES & BIBLIOGRAPHY

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Phaidon Press Limited I owe much to all of the people on my travels who opened up their lives
Regent's Wharf with such openhearted generosity-even those we accosted along the
All Saints Street road to photograph. Many were bemused at the foreign woman and
London N1 9PA her Japanese photographer who wanted to photograph them, but most
agreed nonetheless.
Phaidon Press Inc .
65 Bleecker Street I owe the biggest debt of gratitude to two of the most inspiring women
New York, NY !0012 I know inJapan: Harumi Kawaguchi of Okayama and Teiko Watanabe
of Iwate. They generously shared a wealth of methods and recipes that
phaidon.com make up a large body of this bible.
First published 2018 And for my enthusiastic tasters : the Sunny-Side Up! kids and their
Reprinted 2018 (three times) parents and grandparents who pronounced each dish as "yummy, "
© 2018 Phaidon Press Limited I give a resounding thank you!
ISBN 978 o 7148 7474 6 My son Andrew Hachisu and my assistant, Ryoko Ozawa, were invaluable
in offering feedback during the recipe testing process, and without them,
A CIP catalogue record for this book the recipes might not have shone as much as they do.
is available from the British Library and
the Library of Congress. I also want to thank all of my friends in the restaurant world who agreed to
test recipes on the fly as I was finalizing recipes while doing collaboration
All rights reserved. No part of this dinners: Jenn Louis and John Toboada in Portland, Oregon; Audie
publication may be reproduced, stored Golder in San Francisco, California; and especially my good pal, Sylvan
in a retrieval system or transmitted, in Mishima Brackett of Izakaya Rintaro in San Francisco, for his honest
any form or by any means , electronic, feedback every step of the way.
mechanical , photocopying, recording
or otherwise , without the written And last, while I cannot give back to my family the three years it took to
permission of Phaidon Press Limited. create this book, I deeply appreciate their understanding of why I went
down the rabbit hole for Japan:The Cookbook.
Commissioning Editor: Olga Massov
Project Editor: Olga Massov
Production Controller: Sarah Kramer
Photography: Jennifer May , Kenta Izumi
(pages 8 , 16, 57, and 447), and Kenji NANCY SINGLETON HACHISU livesonafarminJapan
Miura (pages 15, 26 - 27, and 425) with her family, and is a James Beard Award-nominated author of two
Typesetting: Michael Wallace cookbooks: JapaneseFarmFoodand Preserving theJapaneseW<ry.Her work has
appeared in Food&:Mne, Saveur, TheArtofEating, and Luc1!J'Peach. A native
Design: Julia Hasting Californian, she has resided in Japan for thirty years , and is widely
respected as an authority on Japanese cooking, both in Japan and the
Printed in China United States .
The publisher would like to thank

Vanessa Bird, Erin Louise Clancy,
Barbara Fitz , Christopher Hachisu,
Margaret Hurley, Hannah Kirshner,
Saori Kurioka, Carmen Ladipo,
Kazuko Miyamoto, Cecilia Molinari ,
Eve O'Sullivan, Yuko Sato, Andrew
Scrivani, Kate Slate, Tracey Smith,
Emily Takoudes, and Emilia Terragni.

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NANCY SINGLETON HACHISU

A HISTORY OF JAPANESE FOOD 17

BEFORE T H E MEAL SIMMERED

aemono 59 shirumono 153

namamono 91 mushimono 185

sunomono 105 itamemono 207

yakimono 253 nabemono 349

menru1 275 kanmi 375

gohan 289 shefu 391

When I was first approached by Phaidon to write Japan:

IO t;t [; ell) t: INTRO D UC TI O N

12 ti [; ol6t: I N TROD UC TION

13 (;I: (.; 6"J(;:: INTRO DUCT ION

The earliest account of Japanese food culture appears in the

Looking back over the thousand-year-old food traditions

JOMON PERIOD (cA 12,000 BCE-400 BCE):

Japanese food history can be traced in a simple, logical

17 E3*~0)~5':. A HISTORY OF JAPANESE FOOD

YAYOI PERIOD (cA 400 BCE-200 cE):

The Yayoi period is known as the era of agricultural revo-

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NARA PERIOD (710-794-): PRECURSOR

While Buddhism was introduced to Japan via Korea right

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HEIAN PERIOD (794-II92) :

Culture was generally transmitted to Japan from Korea and

KAMAKURA PERIOD (1192-1336):

The advent of iron pots in the Kamakura period resulted in

20 B,tsjll:O)~~ A HISTORY OF JAPANESE FOOD

MUROMACHI PERIOD (r336-1573),

Muromachi follows Kamakura as the second part of Japan's

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EDO PERIOD (1600-1868) :

The Edo period makes up most of what historians call

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1688, 9th month, 25 th day , Noon (Sen Soshitsu 1996,90)

Pickle Course (ko no mono)

Both rice and soup bowls have a design of stylized cherry

Citron miso ; Rice Course (meshi)

Course of D elicacies to Eat with Sake (sakana)

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Wet-rice cultivation came to Japan from China in the third

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The first prohibition against consuming meat was in the year

Ultimately , the food we make should taste good. After

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BE F ORE THE M EAL

30 il'J~ ZENSAI - BEFORE THE MEAL

GINKGO NUTS ON SKEWERS

SPICY STEAMED CARROT STEMS

31 ZENSAI - BEFORE THE MEAL

DAIKON AND TUNA SALAD

Preparation time: 40 minutes Adding daikon, daikonsprouts , Make the salad ,

32 ZENSAI - BEFORE THE MEAL

KONBU WITH UMEBOSHI